# Float pod setup...



## vahunter (May 19, 2013)

I know this has been talked about a lot and I've read a lot. I mocked a med size beavertail pod and it has clearance but I may go with a small, or if I end up building my own i may go somewhere in between a small and med. Ive read to flush the sides and the bottom edge but with about a 1" upward angle. My weldbilt has a slight V on the bottom and with the side of the pod lined up with the side of the boat the top and bottom will be parallel to each other obviously keeping the bottom flush.

Soooo, should pods be flush to side and bottom? Or flush to side with bottom corner flush but with the pods parallel to each other.

If they are best flush to sides and bottom ill build some. If they are best parallel, ill probably just buy the beavertails. If thats the case should i get the small or medium. The mediums look a little big on the boat but I have a few inches clearance to cav plate. Or should I get the small for more clearance? Thanks,
Buddy


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## vahunter (May 19, 2013)




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## Lkmc (May 21, 2013)

Just FYI, my Alweld the boxes came flush on the sides and bottom.


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## vahunter (May 21, 2013)

Is the bottom on your alweld flat or a slight v. Mines about 2" from side to center


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## smackdaddy53 (May 21, 2013)

Mine are going on flush with sides and bottom. I don't see a benefit of having them set back at all from the edges, seems like that would cause more drag and less floatation below the water line.


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## vahunter (May 22, 2013)

Here's a pic I found on a discussion I came across I will use to help explain...


The hull angle to the keel is exaggerated but I'm basically asking about the red section. The beavertail pods mocked up on my boat are without the red section. Would I benefit at all with the red section included in a pod considering the slight v of the hull design?


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## vahunter (Jun 6, 2013)

Gonna start building pods soon. Priced 5052 .090x4'x8' sheet at $98. Gonna pick that up in the next week or two and start cutting.

I decided to follow the 5* bottom angle (red section in above pic included in pod) because I'm thinking it may be less likely to push air to the prop. Plus add a tad bit more floatation. Will post pics once I get started.


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## smackdaddy53 (Jun 6, 2013)

vahunter said:


> Gonna start building pods soon. Priced 5052 .090x4'x8' sheet at $98. Gonna pick that up in the next week or two and start cutting.
> 
> I decided to follow the 5* bottom angle (red section in above pic included in pod) because I'm thinking it may be less likely to push air to the prop. Plus add a tad bit more floatation. Will post pics once I get started.


I got my 5052 .125x48x240 for $190 a sheet, You should be able to find .125x48x96 for about $100 easy.


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## vahunter (Jun 7, 2013)

I'm going with .090 not .125".many pods are made with .100 including Beavertail's large pods. So I'm quite sure I'd be fine with .090" for pods about the size of their small pods. It will cut back on some of the weight giving be more floatation and I honestly don't feel like I'm risking strength.


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## vahunter (Aug 5, 2013)

Got pods mocked up, cut, bent, and my buddy TIGed it all up and on the boat


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## Pweisbrod (Aug 6, 2013)

Why does everybody except me have a friend that tig welds aluminm? LOL they look awesome.


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## cva34 (Aug 7, 2013)

Looks real good.Let us know your feelings on handling and performance changes...


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## fender66 (Aug 7, 2013)

Looks really nice. Is this the boat you've had all along?

I thought you had a blue jet boat??? :-k


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## Butthead (Aug 7, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=324941#p324941 said:


> Pweisbrod » Tue Aug 06, 2013 6:39 am[/url]"]Why does everybody except me have a friend that tig welds aluminm? LOL they look awesome.



Well at least I'm not alone because that's exactly what i was thinking, ha-ha!

They do look really nice!


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## DrNip (Aug 7, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=324941#p324941 said:


> Pweisbrod » Yesterday, 05:39[/url]"]Why does everybody except me have a friend that tig welds aluminm? LOL they look awesome.



Me too.

Looks awesome man.


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## vahunter (Aug 8, 2013)

fender66 said:


> Looks really nice. Is this the boat you've had all along?
> 
> I thought you had a blue jet boat??? :-k


 Think you've got the wrong guy fender  never had a blue jet boat.

Thanks guys will do. Gonna attempt to take the wife fishing Saturday.


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## lovedr79 (Aug 8, 2013)

looks great! where's my set? LOL! yeah everyone has a buddy that can tig..... but me


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## vahunter (Aug 8, 2013)

Painted and motor back on


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## grantpo (Sep 29, 2013)

I see you put the drain on the pods next to the Transom. Were it is logical to put due to the angle, but wondered by Beavertail and Boyds put it on the back under the handle. I've been reading more post on pods than I can handle researching my own set i'm getting ready to build. 

Have you had it in the water? Post before and after performance numbers, thoughts, and regrets. Please. Do your drain plugs catch the water right there while under power?

Looks like your didn't go flush..cant really see for sure in the pics. How much offset did you go from the sides and bottom of transom? Last question for now...How much of a rise to from transom to back of Pods did you do.


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## Ca1297 (Oct 3, 2013)

I just bought the medium set of pods for my 16x52 flat bottom jet, when I test fitted them against the transom they are flush on the bottom and the side but they are angled up slightly and I'm wondering if this is normal or should they be flat and level. Anyone have any insight on this would be great bc I haven't welded them on yet.


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## vahunter (Oct 18, 2013)

Pods are awesome. I modified drains plugs to make "flush" drain plugs to reduce water disturbance, drag, and line hang ups.

I mounted them about 3/8" from the bottom and sides and a 1" rise to reduce drag. Beavertail recommends some rise but not too much. 0 rise will give you max buoyancy and faster planing but more drag slowing you down a mph or two. The rise will give you the ability to raise the bow easier, minimize drag but a tad less buoyancy. I think the amount of rise is personal preference for what you're trying to accomplish.


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## T Man (Oct 18, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=330729#p330729 said:


> grantpo » 29 Sep 2013, 09:37[/url]"]I see you put the drain on the pods next to the Transom. Were it is logical to put due to the angle, but wondered by Beavertail and Boyds put it on the back under the handle. I've been reading more post on pods than I can handle researching my own set i'm getting ready to build.
> 
> Have you had it in the water? Post before and after performance numbers, thoughts, and regrets. Please. Do your drain plugs catch the water right there while under power?
> 
> Looks like your didn't go flush..cant really see for sure in the pics. How much offset did you go from the sides and bottom of transom? Last question for now...How much of a rise to from transom to back of Pods did you do.



Drain plugs in the back allow the pod to be self bailing in case of a breech


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## grantpo (Oct 18, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=332333#p332333 said:


> vahunter » 18 Oct 2013, 09:18[/url]"]Pods are awesome. I modified drains plugs to make "flush" drain plugs to reduce water disturbance, drag, and line hang ups.
> 
> I mounted them about 3/8" from the bottom and sides and a 1" rise to reduce drag. Beavertail recommends some rise but not too much. 0 rise will give you max buoyancy and faster planing but more drag slowing you down a mph or two. The rise will give you the ability to raise the bow easier, minimize drag but a tad less buoyancy. I think the amount of rise is personal preference for what you're trying to accomplish.




That is very close to how I am going to mount mine. So, before and after performance? How did the way you mounted them affect your top end and things you would change if you were to do it over?


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## vahunter (Oct 18, 2013)

grantpo said:


> That is very close to how I am going to mount mine. So, before and after performance? How did the way you mounted them affect your top end and things you would change if you were to do it over?



Went from 28-29mph top end to 27-28top. I would probably taper the sides inward some but that's all I would change.


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## vahunter (Oct 18, 2013)

T Man said:


> Drain plugs in the back allow the pod to be self bailing in case of a breech



Very true. Where I put my plugs wasn't really necessary I just liked the idea of them there in case for some reason I need to drain them I wouldn't have to find a slope or tilt the trailer way back. I couldn't see breaching those things though. If you do, I'd imagine you'd have worse things to worry about. Just my input.


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## grantpo (Nov 1, 2013)

vahunter, thanks for all of your quick replies and input!!!! Got a few more question for you. 

What is the distance in-between the pods and would the outboard clear them without the Jackplate? Lock to Lock trimmed up?

Did you replicate the Beavertail med. Pods? So yours are 17.5" wide on the top? 



I'm asking all of this because I am dropping my boat off to have some made 3 days from now and don't want to run into any issues. I do not have my Motor on hand to make sure everything will clear. My boat is 49" bottom so if yours clears, I should be golden. Very nervous about having them done!!! lol


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## Country Dave (Nov 1, 2013)

_Hey bro looks great you can't go wrong with the pods.................. :mrgreen: _


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## vahunter (Nov 3, 2013)

grantpo said:


> vahunter, thanks for all of your quick replies and input!!!! Got a few more question for you.
> 
> What is the distance in-between the pods and would the outboard clear them without the Jackplate? Lock to Lock trimmed up?
> 
> ...


I'm not sure if it would clear without the jackplate but it should it you stick with the Beavertail small pod dimensions.


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## smackdaddy53 (Nov 3, 2013)

Boyd's Welding will build you custom pods for a great price. They built mine off my blueprints for $200 less than any local welding shops quoted me and that included shipping from Florida to Texas...and to top it off one pod was 1/2" off and they rebuilt another one and had it to me at no extra cost in 4 days. That is great customer service if you ask me! I have the extra pod they built wrong if you want to have a matching one made. That would save you some $$


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