# Steelflex



## bandgeek1263 (Nov 11, 2009)

What colors does steelflex come in? and is it worth the trouble and labor?


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## Nick Jones (Nov 11, 2009)

bandgeek1263 said:


> What colors does steelflex come in? and is it worth the trouble and labor?



There are several colors you can add to it: i have black on the way. I know they have olive drab, brown, white, blue and a few more. I also know that you can order it and if you dont like the color options you can ask Jerry (the guy who owens it I guess) to tell you what type of paint you need. You can then go to your local hardware store and get the color you want to add to it. I think you have to ask for just the color! You don't want the white can of paint they add the color to.

there are several threads on here about how to do it.

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=9912&hilit=bufford&start=10

There is another one that is really detailed but i can't find it right now.


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## Nussy (Nov 11, 2009)

If you have leaks. It's worth the hassle. It won't look like a great paint job but it will definitely seal the leaks. I just put it on my boat and I had some problems with it sagging. I'm guessing it's because it wasn't hot enough.....enough though I did it in a 70 degree heated garage. It's also good to work with 2 people putting it on. I would also suggest a paint mixer for an electric drill to make sure you mix it enough. If you want to see some pictures take a look at the link to my build in my signature. I have more pics of the steelflex if you want to see them. I went with the hight end Teflon stuff. I thought it might go on easier. In hindsight I wish I would have gone the the cheaper version. It's a bout $65/gallon and they will only take pre-paid or COD. Jerry is really helpful. He can answer any questions you have.


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## Nussy (Nov 11, 2009)

One other thing. Steelflex did not take nearly as much labor or work as my paint job. With Steelflex just rough it up and the put it on. No need for primer, sanding between coats, etc. It only took me and a buddy maybe an hour or two at the most for my boat. 

I put it on with a 4" foam foller and foam brush. Work in small batches. Maybe 4 cups at a time. Have one guy mix it and drizzle it on, they the other guy come by and roll it smooth. I would also recommend putting in thick. I have a 15' boat and have some left over after coming 1/2 way up each side. Don't try to stretch it. Where I put it on thicker it looked better because it self leveled a bit more.


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## bandgeek1263 (Nov 11, 2009)

Awesome thanks for the info and tips guys


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## Nick Jones (Nov 12, 2009)

No problem man! Nussy's post is the one i couldn't find. I think his is one of the best do's and don't about steelflex.


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## bandgeek1263 (Nov 12, 2009)

How can a thick coat cure quicker than a thin coat? It is, on average, 3 times quicker to dry as a thick coat than as a thin coat. How can this be? Is this what the label on Steelflex is implying?


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## Nussy (Nov 14, 2009)

bandgeek1263 said:


> How can a thick coat cure quicker than a thin coat? It is, on average, 3 times quicker to dry as a thick coat than as a thin coat. How can this be? Is this what the label on Steelflex is implying?


It's not about drying....It's about hardening. Steelflex is an epoxy. I never tested the theory but everything I've read said that if you put it on thicker it hardens faster. Never tested the theory. I can tell you this..... It looks better because it self levels a bit more.


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## Nussy (Nov 14, 2009)

I figured I'd paste my recommendations from my build since this is a thread only about Steelflex. I know I read a lot of helpful articles before deciding to do my boat. Thought I'd return the favor. 

Recommendations: 

1. Go with the cheaper version. I went with the more expensive stuff because I thought with the Teflon it might go on easier. That's doubtful, and I had some sagging issues so the Teflon might actually have made it worse. 
2. Definitely work with a partner. I had a buddy mixing and pouring then going along with a foam brush over the rivets to make sure then were well covered. I followed behind with a 4 inch foam roller. 4" was a good size as it fit between the ribs really well. 
3. Put it on thick. It goes on much easier that way and levels itself better. We did my entire boat with 1 gallon, and a had probably 3-4 cups to spare. You should easily be able to do a 16' boat with a 48-54" bottom. For some reason it seamed as though we needed to pour it on thicker on the bottom than we did on the sides. 
4. Do the bottom only. Let it dry. Then tip the boat on it's side to do the sides. I didn't do that I just had the boat sit like in the pictures and once applied the sides started to sag and it looked really bad. We took a beer break and came back out to the garage to find the sagging. Tried to roll back over it with mixed success. We were able to get some of the runs out but some others came back pretty quickly. The bottom looks fine because it was flat. _Edit- After thinking about it, I think it ran because my garage wasn't warm enough, so it didn't cure as fast. If I had to do it again, I'd simply wait until it was 75 degrees or hotter. Although the rolling trick would help_
5. Get a metal mixing attachment for a cordless drill to mix it. This stuff is think and you want to make sure you mix it well. 
6. Mix all the pigment with the hardener. Then mix equal parts resin & hardener. This will ensure a even color. 
7. Use gloves and tape off very well. It seams to get on everything. 
8. Is firms up fast but you have time to work with it. No need to rush. We mixed 4 cups at a time. 
9. If I had to do it again. I wouldn't go as far up the sides. I would simply go 3-4 inches up off the bottom. That will leave more room for paint which no doubt will look nicer. The good news for me was that it covered another row of rivets.
10. Try to pull the tape off before it fully cures, but not too soon that it hasn't set. This stuff is not like normal paint. It's more like rubber. I did this and didn't have any issues. I think if I would have waited over night I would have had my hands full getting it off.


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## danmyersmn (Nov 15, 2009)

Possibly the thicker coat creates more heat causing it to cure faster?


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## bandgeek1263 (Nov 15, 2009)

sounds like an experiment with the remainder.....


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## bassin assassin (Nov 19, 2009)

I am redoing a 12 foot jon boat and wanting to make sure it doesn't leak. I have already applied paint to the bottom of the boat. Can you apply the steel flex to paint and paint over it once applied or do you have to remove all the paint? Thanks


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## Nick Jones (Nov 19, 2009)

bassin assassin said:


> I am redoing a 12 foot jon boat and wanting to make sure it doesn't leak. I have already applied paint to the bottom of the boat. Can you apply the steel flex to paint and paint over it once applied or do you have to remove all the paint? Thanks




Actually it is better to have paint on there. The epoxy has to have something to bond with. just make sure you sand it with 60 or so sand paper to ruff it up. After that wipe it down with acetone and it should be good to go. You can call the place and talk with Jerry and he will explain everything. I stripped mine to the aluminum so i applied self etching primer before i put it down (just for precaution). I did it last weekend and it looks great! i am flipping it over tonight.

Check out Bufford's and Nussy's post. They are very detailed.


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## bassin assassin (Nov 19, 2009)

Thanks Nick. Nice bass. Smallmouth? Do you know if you can paint over the steeel flex once applied? Also, I have read about polyurethane enamel clear coat being used to protect the paint job on the outside of the boat. Do you have any knowledge of this? Any help is most appreciated.


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## Nick Jones (Nov 19, 2009)

bassin assassin said:


> Thanks Nick. Nice bass. Smallmouth? Do you know if you can paint over the steeel flex once applied? Also, I have read about polyurethane enamel clear coat being used to protect the paint job on the outside of the boat. Do you have any knowledge of this? Any help is most appreciated.



That is actually a Crappie. It's the largest i have ever caught. It was about 2 1/2 pounds.

As for the steelflex, I have read on here that you can. Fasco doesn't accept payment by internet so you will have to call. I would just make out a list of everything you want to know and ask when you call. Then you need to post so all of us will know.  

I have no idea about the clear coat but someone will reply before too long.


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## bassin assassin (Nov 19, 2009)

Wow! Nice crappie. That's a beast. I think I will have to get some of the steel flex. It looks likee a good way to make sure rivets are sealed and it doesn't leak. Thanks


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## Brine (Nov 19, 2009)

I've put it on my boat and although I haven't used the boat to tell how well the product lasts, I was out with someone recently who had it on his boat from the bottom all the way to the gunwales, and it was applied to his boat this year. I noticed that it was rubbing off where his pvc trailer guides rub the boat during loading/unloading, and he told me that the bottom was scraped off as well from pulling the boat onto banks. Given that the prep work was done correctly, and that it has started to rub off so quickly, I'm questioning the longevity, as well as the value (for me), of using it.

That said.....It's too early for me to give a thumbs up or down on it until I have the opportunity to use the boat and see if my own results somehow differ from his, but I thought it was at least "responsible" information for folks who are considering using it. It should also be noted that his product (as well as mine) was the less expensive version of the product, without the teflon additive. There's no question that it sealed the bottom of my boat, and that it's slick, but If it rubs off when I put the boat on the bank, I have a feeling I won't be quite as impressed with it. If I ran an airboat and was going across grass with it, I think the product would be unquestionably a good idea, but I don't...lol 

My initial thoughts are...If the boat currently has any leaks, I would recommend fixing the leaks first and then consider using the product only as a preventative measure, and if you must use a chemical to seal the boat, use Gluv-It (a penetrating sealant) on the inside, where the chances of it being rubbed off are far less likely. Take this with a grain of salt, as I have no water time with the boat, and Im certainly not trying to dispute anyone's own experience.


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## bassin assassin (Nov 19, 2009)

Thanks Brine! Now you have me thinking on whether to do it or not. I have been reading another modification and the guy used Steelflex 9x Epoxy coating. Is that what you used? I will be loading and unloading it from a trailer. I just had some leaks in my boat and needed to reseal all the rivets. I heard of the Gluv-it but I talked to a guy a West marine and it was pretty pricey. I am not sure what to do now. I have already resealed a number of the rivets on the bottom and painted it. The paint was a little bright so I ordered a gallon of hunter green from Cabela's. I was going to get the olive drab Flex Steel and apply it to the bottom of the outside and the iside of the boat. I have even considered the Herculiner. Rhino lining seems pricey. Your input is most helpful. This is a great site and I am learning so much. Some of these guys have amazing talent and are very skilled. I on the other hand am not. I just want to do a simple job...make the boat leak proof (if that is possible), paint it, put in seats and some carpet, probably pay somebody to do the electrical and that's it.


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## Brine (Nov 20, 2009)

ba,

You're welcome and yes, that is the same product I used....and again, I tell you this feeling somewhat like the lone wolf because I've only read good things about the product on tinboats. It should also be noted that I don't have any first-hand experience with Gluv-It and am only going off what I have read. I know Gluv-it is pricey, but if it's the "best" product for sealing leaky rivets....it should be. 

Forget using Herculiner. It's texture is too aggressive for the inside of a boat, and it will get hot in the sun. I used it on my trailer. I don't know about Rhino liner. I'm probably going to "invest" in the Gluv-it route even though I have the Steelflex on the bottom because of what I saw happening on the other guy's boat and the "value" I see in using it. For me, I will be using aluminum decks that get riveted down to the ribs, then either putting vinyl or a non skid paint on them, and don't want to ever have to remove the deck to repair a leaky rivet. If the decks were easy to remove or I didn't have any, I wouldn't spend the money on it as a preventative measure. 

FYI, I fish several lakes that don't have a boat dock (as he does). I trailer the boat, but having to put the boat on the bank to get in and out of it is normal. Good luck, and I'll keep a lookout for your mod. 

Does the boat still leak?
How hard would it be to add a product to the inside of the boat later?


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## danmyersmn (Nov 20, 2009)

That is one of the reasons I decided against using steelflex. I have read on a few other boards dealing with driftboats where they posters have stated they reapply the steelflex, or gluv-it every few years because it wears off. Lets face it, when we are talking about mud we are talking about "wet sanding". Nothing is going to stand up to that forever. I knew where my boat leaked and fixed the leaks so I decided to just go with paint and let it wear off on the bottom as it will.

I did decided to seal the inside using another product as a test to see how it would apply in this application but since I don't have leaks I am concerned with filling it was more of a testing type application.


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## Brine (Nov 20, 2009)

Also...I see that you can find Guvit for about $45 for a quart (which covers about 25-35 sq ft) and $85 for a gallon which covers 100-130 sq ft) plus shipping. I don't see the value in spreading it all over the inside of my hull where there is no potential for leaky rivets, and would only use it as a "spot" application on the rivets that are below the waterline. That said, I think a quart would do the job for me. I read that if the Gluvit is exposed to direct sunlight, it should be top coated with a paint etc..


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## bassin assassin (Nov 20, 2009)

Thanks guys. I sealed the rivets on the bottom with some epoxy from West Marine and have already painted it but wasn't happy with the paint so I ordered the Hunter Green from Cabela's. Should be in today. I think I am just going to put two coats on and that's it for the bottom. I don't want to over-complicate this process. I just want to fix up the boat and go fishing. If I keep ordering stuff, I will never complete it. Not sure if the boat still leaks. Don't think it should since I have sealed the rivets, primed it and painted it (soon to be twice). Then I will flip it over and re-seal as many rivets in the boat, prime and paint it. I don't have the skills, imagination and craftmanship that these other guys have on here so this really isn't a mod and don't consider it to be worthy of pics. I do want it to look nice and have it be something I can be satisfied with. This problem originally started when I bought a used boat and realized that two of the ribs were cracked. I took it to an aluminum welding shop to fix the problem, but when I took it out it was leaking more than it had before. So I decided to clean off the paint and sealant on the bottom and re-seal the rivets (should have bucked them according to this website) and repaint it. Felt like I got in over my head. Was looking for products here in Tampa and couldn't find what I kept reading about. So like I said, I think I have overcomplicated matters and am missing out on prime fishing weather here in FL.


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## Jim (Nov 20, 2009)

Great informative post guys! :beer:


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## AcuDoc (Jan 9, 2010)

New to the board with a question.

I have a 16.5' center console Klamath tin boat with a 50hp 4 stroke. I've tricked it out and have done a lot of modifications. I mostly fish the Sea of Cortez but do some freshwater here in Idaho.

I bought the boat used about 6 years ago and last year I started to get a few pinhole leaks and maybe a little pitting. I've had all of them, I hope, welded but am thinking of coating the inside of the boat to strengthen the hull and stop any further leaks.

First I thought of rhino etc. This will be under my floorboards so texture is not an issue. My concern is to strengthen the hull etc. After reading posts here on the board I'm wondering about using Gluv-it, Steelflex or???

Whats everyones thoughts? Thanks in advance...


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## Brine (Jan 9, 2010)

AcuDoc said:


> New to the board with a question.
> 
> I have a 16.5' center console Klamath tin boat with a 50hp 4 stroke. I've tricked it out and have done a lot of modifications. I mostly fish the Sea of Cortez but do some freshwater here in Idaho.
> 
> ...



I'd make sure your electrical system isn't a source of your corrosion. If all of your corrosion is below the waterline, I would think Steelflex may be a good option for you applied to the outside of the boat. I don't see the value in applying anything on the inside if the corrosion is coming from the outside, but I don't fully understand the intracacies of tin boats and salt water either.


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