# Storing outboard in winter - updated



## jartzh (Nov 15, 2010)

I was wondering if the traditional method of storing outboards over the winter still apply or with the new alcohol fuels and blue sta-bil is there a new "preferred" strategy.

Can you give me the "best" method to assure that when spring comes my Mercury 9.9 2 stroke will start? (fuel additive, remove bowl,....)


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## perchin (Nov 15, 2010)

simple... Unhook your fuel line from the tank. Now start the outboard with the muffs on, and run her till she stalls out from fuel starvation. Now drain your lower-end lube and replace with fresh.

This is what I do... although I store mine in my basement so it never freeze's either over the winter. :wink: 

Now what you do with the left over gas... I don't bother wasting money on a fuel stabilizer, I just let it sit in the can untill first mowing next year and run it in the lawn tractor, weed wacker, chainsaw, or use it in the farm truck. I fail to see the benefit to treating $30 worth of gas with a $15 treatment... the guys with the big boats are a different story.


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## jartzh (Nov 15, 2010)

If I cant run all the gas out (due to its not near the water anymore), how is the next best way to winterize it?


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## perchin (Nov 15, 2010)

jartzh said:


> If I cant run all the gas out (due to its not near the water anymore), how is the next best way to winterize it?



You just hook it up to the garden hose with these muffs...


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## jartzh (Nov 15, 2010)

Thanks,
If I dont have any gas here can I just hook up the water and try to start it until is empties the fuel filter under the cowl? I am assuming it will spit and sputter and maybe even start for a second.


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## PartsMan (Nov 15, 2010)

My Johnson 9.9 ran for 10min in a barrel after I unhooked it.
That was in gear at half throttle.


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## bassboy1 (Nov 15, 2010)

I'll say that one a single carb engine, running it out of fuel is fine, but it is not a good idea on a multi - carb engine. 2 strokes, at least. Running a motor out of gas is also running it out of oil, so if one carb drains quicker than the rest, the cyls. fed by that carb are in essence being run without oil. 

Run a decent fuel stabilizer through it, then drain the carb via the plug in the float bowl on a mulicarb 2 stroke.


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## Rick James (Nov 15, 2010)

PartsMan said:


> My Johnson 9.9 ran for 10min in a barrel after I unhooked it.
> That was in gear at half throttle.



My 15hp took about the same amount of time........I was amazed.


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## crazymanme2 (Nov 15, 2010)

I run my motors that I put up with a mix of 10 to 1 so it gets an extra amount of oil inside when storing.I usually don't worry about fuel in carbs & never had any trouble.Yes I use a gas stabilizer.


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## Hanr3 (Nov 15, 2010)

You can't run the carb out of fuel, the bowl will always contain fuel even after the engine dies. You must drain the fuel bowl, treat the gas, or let it be. On smaller engines there should be a screw or the bowl is removeable. If niether are an option, put some HEET or other gas treatment in the last tank for the last trip of the year. I run Seafoam in all tanks, plus I run 10% ethanol. The ethanol and Seafoam clean all the varnish gasoline leaves behind. 

Also pull the plugs (clean and gap, or replace) and spray WD-40 into the chamber. It'll leave a protective coating, and will burn off in the spring. WD-40 stands for Water Displacement 40th attempt. 

I prefer to empty the gas tank and leave it dry over winter. If you cant empty the gas tank completely, then its best to top it off. More fuel, less water condensation and the less internal rusting, if your tank is metal, add a fuel treatment. 

Come spring I'll fill up with fresh gas (10% ethaonl)/oil and add seafoam.
Charge the battery. 
Pull the plugs and clean or replace, spray some ether, and put the plug back in. 
Fire it up in a barrel and let it run for a bit, then take a 1/2hr. cruise around the lake.
I do the same thing with my riding mower, and weedwhacker. 
On the rider I'll change the oil and filter in the spring, sharpen the blades, check tire pressure, etc. Plus clean the air filter, clean the deck, etc.

I do plan on replacing the head gasket, reeds, and may soak the carb while I have it off this winter. Thinking I'm only getting power from one of my pistons.


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## bassboy1 (Nov 15, 2010)

Hanr, you are the first person I've ever heard of that thinks there is some value in ethanol blended fuel. 

I'll just say that it has been nothing but problems for me.


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## perchin (Nov 16, 2010)

bassboy1 said:


> I'll say that one a single carb engine, running it out of fuel is fine, but it is not a good idea on a multi - carb engine. 2 strokes, at least. Running a motor out of gas is also running it out of oil, so if one carb drains quicker than the rest, the cyls. fed by that carb are in essence being run without oil.
> 
> Run a decent fuel stabilizer through it, then drain the carb via the plug in the float bowl on a mulicarb 2 stroke.



while I agree that it is possible... I was raised doing this method my entire life without ever having any issues. 

Here is another one for ya... My grand-dad was one of the head mechanics for 20 some years at a powersports shop, and he is whom I was taught to do this by... he also does not bother with what he calls snake oil (fogging oil). We have a vehicle (1983 Chevy 1500 4x4) that is only used from jan to march, and it sits the rest of every year. It always starts right up without ever using any stabilizer's or fogging oils.

*edit*... I just realized you said its probably fine in a single carb setup... (like the OP's anyways)


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## jartzh (Nov 16, 2010)

Thanks for the tips.
Unfortunately I can't get to the carb bowl without removing the carb. These mercs dont have a ready access to the carb.


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## Troutman3000 (Nov 16, 2010)

bassboy1 said:


> I'll say that one a single carb engine, running it out of fuel is fine, but it is not a good idea on a multi - carb engine. 2 strokes, at least. Running a motor out of gas is also running it out of oil, so if one carb drains quicker than the rest, the cyls. fed by that carb are in essence being run without oil.
> 
> Run a decent fuel stabilizer through it, then drain the carb via the plug in the float bowl on a mulicarb 2 stroke.




I have a double carbed engine is it bad to disconnect the gas line every time before I leave the lake? I usually run it every two weeks so it doesnt sit very long. What should I do?


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## crazymanme2 (Nov 16, 2010)

Don't worry about disconnecting the fuel line.You'll be OK.


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## gmoney (Nov 16, 2010)

bassboy1 said:


> Hanr, you are the first person I've ever heard of that thinks there is some value in ethanol blended fuel.
> 
> I'll just say that it has been nothing but problems for me.



All we have in Manitoba up in Canada is 10% ethanol blended fuel, pretty sure its a requirement....
It works perfectly fine.

I love it when I go to the states and the 10% ethanol fuel is cheaper, even though it's the same stuff we have up here


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## perchin (Nov 17, 2010)

I think the ethanol debate has been going on for years. I do find it odd that marina's sell ethanol free gasoline if its actually a benefit to have it... on the other hand, I've never used much else than the E-10 pump fuel, and have never had a problem. I'm pretty sure that all gasoline engines in the last 15-20 years were built ethanol friendly though. Its those old cork style gaskets that will disolve because of ethanol.


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## benjineer (Nov 18, 2010)

Speaking of Mercs, the muffs won't work on my '86 model 9.9s. I have to fill up a bucket. Dad has a newer 4-stroke 9.9 that is the same way. Is there a better solution out there for this? Tempo makes a crazy little thing we use on the '69 OMC IO. Does someone make something for the little mercs? I'm about to start dunking mine in saltwater, and I'd like a better way to run it in my yard. Until then, I'll be trying to stop by a river launch on the way home and run them.


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## crazymanme2 (Nov 18, 2010)

Look closely at your lower unit.Isn't there a straight slot screw just below the cavitation plate that says flush?Or is that just on the larger motors?


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## benjineer (Nov 18, 2010)

crazymanme2 said:


> Look closely at your lower unit.Isn't there a straight slot screw just below the cavitation plate that says flush?Or is that just on the larger motors?



I don't remember seeing anything like that, but I will look again. Thanks.


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## Hanr3 (Nov 22, 2010)

perchin said:


> I think the ethanol debate has been going on for years. I do find it odd that marina's sell ethanol free gasoline if its actually a benefit to have it... on the other hand, I've never used much else than the E-10 pump fuel, and have never had a problem. I'm pretty sure that all gasoline engines in the last 15-20 years were built ethanol friendly though. Its those old cork style gaskets that will disolve because of ethanol.



Let me clean up some confusion. Ethanol is alcohol with an addative so you dont drink it. 
Ethanol has a higher octane rating than gasoline. Racing engines have been burning alcohol/ethanol for decades. 
Ethanol got its bad rap because it eats the old rubber/cork. 
Ethanol actually cleans the varnish gasoline leaves behind. Straight gasoline is bad, it leaves a varnish, ethanol doesn't. Ever see varnish in your booze bottles?
Sta-bils commercial claiming ethanol leaves harmful deposits is misleading, the ethanol doesnt leave deposits, the gasoline does. Yes ethanol will attract more water vapor than gasoline, however even at 100% saturation, it wont affect a properly performing engine. Your carb/fuel injectors pump in a fuel air mixture. Ever drive in the rain? The air your engine is sucking in is 100% moisture laden. It doesnt affect your engine performance. Plus ethanol is produced locally by American farmers and ADM. Google ADM (Arhcer Danials Midland), tehy make products you use everyday and dont even know it.


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