# Home made riser questions



## CDoeg90 (Oct 27, 2014)

Has anyone out there ever made a home made riser for their boats at a cheap price? Is it worth it? Can we see some pics of them? My motor looks to be sitting about three or four inches too low and I'm thinking some angle iron and nuts and bolts can be cheaper then $100 or more for a riser. Thanks all.


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## ccm (Oct 28, 2014)

I remember reading through this members thread & he built a homemade jack plate which I think might be just what you want to do.
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=25172&start=90


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## CDoeg90 (Oct 28, 2014)

I tried to find a thread about them but came up empty. When I click on that link it says the topic does not exist.


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## TNtroller (Oct 28, 2014)

Depending on the boat and motor, a riser is fairly easy to make/build. You need some aluminum plate 1/16 or 1/8-1/4" thick, depending on the size & weight of the motor, enough alum plate to sandwich the hull's transom on both sides, some spacer material to fill the gap on the top side of the transom itself. Check out gheenoe.net and microskiff.com for some how to's, or google is always a good source. Those two websites are for small FG boats, but the principle is the same for tin.


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## overboard (Oct 28, 2014)

CDoeg90 said:


> I tried to find a thread about them but came up empty. When I click on that link it says the topic does not exist.


Try again. I just clicked on it, and it came up.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Oct 28, 2014)

I bought a T&H mini jacker on ebay for less than $50.00.


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## CDoeg90 (Oct 28, 2014)

So far the cheapest mini jacker I have seen is $90. I'll keep looking though.


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## TNtroller (Oct 29, 2014)

There is a difference between the riser and a JP, the riser will not provide any setback from the actual transom, only raise the motor up on the transom, while the JP provides some setback from the transom (depending on the size of the JP and what you want need) and raises the motor up as well. Both will usually improve the performance of the rig as they raise the LU, and reduce drag, and the LU is in cleaner or less turbulent water.


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## chevyrulz (Oct 29, 2014)

my 14' alumacraft build in my signature shows the one I used, it is made from aluminum plate & tubing welded together to sleeve the transom. you can make a jack plate out of aluminum angle though, two pieces bolt to the transom, then 2 more pieces of angle bolt to the angle you just bolted to the transom leaving a rear facing mounting surface for your motor. if you drill several holes in the angle attached to the transom, then you can adjust height. you must account for the slant of the transom when determining what height to drill your holes. 6" on the angle, will only get you about 4" of raised motor on most transom slants...you can also make a big slot instead of multiple holes, in order to make it possible to fine tune the height adjustment

edit:

should be obvious but be sure to use some thick and wide aluminum angle, like at least prolly 3"x3" and prolly 1/4" thick


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## CDoeg90 (Oct 29, 2014)

That's a nice looking setup. I was thinking around the same setup you made. Seems easy enough and light weight. I'm only looking to gain around 2 inches anyways. I was going to go thick, I'd rather not lose a motor mid run! Thank you for sharing.


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## BigTerp (Oct 31, 2014)

TNtroller said:


> Depending on the boat and motor, a riser is fairly easy to make/build. You need some aluminum plate 1/16 or 1/8-1/4" thick, depending on the size & weight of the motor, enough alum plate to sandwich the hull's transom on both sides, some spacer material to fill the gap on the top side of the transom itself. Check out gheenoe.net and microskiff.com for some how to's, or google is always a good source. Those two websites are for small FG boats, but the principle is the same for tin.



This is exactly how we did mine. I had to raise my transom 4-5/8"" to get my 1994 Johnson 50/35 to where it needed to be. We used .125" aluminum plate and 1"x 1" angle to made the riser.The transom riser is 2 pieces of aluminum sheet that sandwiches the transom. There is another piece of sheet welded to the back side of the fore sheet that acts as a spacer for the transom. Where the top of the transom meets my transom wood, there is a small space, hence the need for a spacer. The top part of the transom riser accounts for 4-5/8" of rise which allows the front of the jet foot to sit flush with the bottom of my hull. The transom riser is made up of various pieces of aluminum sheet that makes one large piece that is all welded together. The motor is bolted through the riser and transom with four 1/2" stainless bolts and nyloc nuts. Was going to add 2 more bolts after being sure the motor was dialed in, but there isn't a need for it. Been running it this way for over a year and 30+ hours with no issues. I have also had several WOT hits, one hard enough to destroy my jet foot, and the riser didn't seem effected at all. Some accurate measurements, some aluminum cutting and welding and it was done. Was a much easier job than I anticipated. Here are some pics.

Here is how far we had to raise mine.






Here it is installed.


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## lovedr79 (Oct 31, 2014)

Big Terp - that is exactly like mine! works great!


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## alfaguy (Nov 2, 2014)

I started a post a few years ago on the jackplate i made.

See if this works for you.

https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=22597


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## CDoeg90 (Nov 2, 2014)

The link did work. All the ideas were very helpful, thank you. I'll be starting on my setup hopefully this week.


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