# Rebirth of the Tin



## CrappieReaper (Dec 22, 2008)

I've been wanting for sometime to get back to an aluminum boat. I've been content with fiberglass for awhile, but I couldn't pass the deal up. This is my first post on this forum and thought I would share with you my current restoration of an aluminum boat from the dead. Thanks to CrappieDentist, who let me know about this place. He's one of the good guys, some might dissagree, but he's ok in my book. 

The story...Another friend of mine had called me one day to let me know a customer of his asked him if he wanted a boat....FOR FREE! He doesn't fish and called me about it. After he described it, I told him to air up those tires and drag it home. It came with titles for the boat and the motor. I went over to have a look at it and it was a 15'5, 1980 "Traveler". Complete with a 12v 43lb Motor Guide foot control and a Humminbird LCR 4000 with ducer. I went over to have a look at it and it looked a lot like a Bass Tracker. Perhaps it was the predecessor to the Bass Tracker, just a guess. Anyway, I walked around it and just said, dang....dang....dang! They GAVE this to you??? He asked me what it was worth, I told him what the motor might sell for, the trolling motor, and even the Humminbird. I also told him that the guy he got it off of had most likely taken on more than he could handle. My friend had most of his guns in the pawn shop and wanted to get them out. I glady paid his pawn tickets, and hooked the thing up and hauled it over to my house. 
The boat before pictures...

















The first thing I did was connect a water hose to the motor, put some fresh gas in the tank, hooked it up to a battery. I turned the key and VARRRROOOOM. Fired right up! Ran ragged for about 30 secs then she smoothed out and idled like a sewing machine. I was happy. The last year the boat and motor had a legal sticker was back in '02. 

After looking the thing over, I had to remove an interior aluminum plate on the transom prior to replacing the wood. The only way to remove the aluminum was to drill out all the rivets in one corner of the back of the boat to be able to pull it back for enough to slide the aluminum out. I did just that. Now the transom is accessible. 











I them gutted the rest of what I wanted out for now. I want nothing interfering with a future "leak test". This way everything is still accessible.
She's now stripped of what she once had in her hayday.






After cleaning her up, I took it down to the carwash. I've fabricated a front live well for it and have it installed, but still need to create a drain for it. 






I've built the new transom for it. 






I used solid oak 1" x 12" along with oak plywood. The Oak will be strong, but will also want to crack, the oak plywood will give the solid oak strength from splitting and cracking. I used waterproof wood glue and plenty of 1 1/4" drywall screws. I then gave it two coats of commercial exterior gray primer. It's now ready to install, I've just been waiting for the right weather, and the time to do it. 


I've been buy goodies for this boat for over a year now and recently have add 4 new Tempress High back Nav chairs, a Lowrance 520c, a Garmin gpsmap192c, and have two humminbird 300tx's in the wait. Ones a spare unless Jake buys it. 
I hope you enjoy my progress, as well as my first post on this forum. I have no clue when I'll be able to get back into it, but plan to have it ready for it's rebirth voyage by the end of January.
Craig

This rig came with an aluminum console, aluminum sidewalls for the storage areas, two livewells in the back, and an aluminum floored storage under the back deck seat. I have a '98 60hp Merc tiller that I love. My plan was to eliminate as much clutter inside the boat as possible. My pnuematic drill was about to get a workout. I drilled out all the rivets holding the console and removed some topside aluminum as well. 

I got busy in the last couple of days of November removing the console and other things. I discovered why the previous owner had given up. The backwash tray had separated from the transom allowing a whole bunch of water to enter the back of the boat whenever he shut her down. The factory plywood transom was also completely rotten.


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## CrappieReaper (Dec 22, 2008)

I forgot to mention that I plan to turn this boat into a tiller model. I want as much room inside the boat as possible. I came close to modifying it into a center console, but decided a tiller would be best. I currently have a '98, 60hp Mercury tiller that will do the trick.


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## CRAPPIEDENTIST (Dec 22, 2008)

wheres the SINK....


JAKE


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## Jim (Dec 22, 2008)

Awesome score! Looking forward to seeing the progress on this boat. Are you planning on adding a deck or just a floor? Storage?


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## russ010 (Dec 22, 2008)

nice find.. can you fix the leak at the transom?


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## CrappieReaper (Dec 22, 2008)

Jim said:


> Awesome score! Looking forward to seeing the progress on this boat. Are you planning on adding a deck or just a floor? Storage?




I removed all urethane foam in the boat to make use of the area for storage. I'm not worried about her sinking. That's what they make bilge pumps for. 

This is what it did look like once the deck was removed.






I am only going to deck the bow area and create storage doors between the ribs. I have three young daughters that I take out a lot. Twins @ 9 and a 6 year old. I want the siderails as high as possible. 

Aft from there will be flooring. I bought the carpet for it over a year ago while it was on clearance. 

BTW Jim, thanks for activating my account. I never did recieve the automated email to activate.


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## russ010 (Dec 22, 2008)

don't worry about removing all the foam - that only comes into play if you were to somehow flip the boat over


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## CrappieReaper (Dec 22, 2008)

russ010 said:


> nice find.. can you fix the leak at the transom?



There will be no leaks anywhere in this boat. I used to build jets for a living and am very useful with a rivet gun and a bucking bar. This is one reason why I prefer a riveted boat over a welded one. I know I can fix any problem that might occur. The last 14' boat I bought had a 2' long rip in it along the bottom seam on the port side. It was all mangled. I cleaned it up, straightened the aluminum, and fabricated doublers for it inside and out. With the help of a friend that also was a good sheet metal tech, we shot it all together one afternoon and it was one of the best boats I have ever owned. 

During the "leak test", I will fill her with water and check every rivet and seam. If there is a leak, it gets marked with a sharpie and then gets drilled out ready for the necessary repair.

Jakes so called turd he posted about, will most likely call for him to make a house call to me with it. His boat will be just fine when said and done.


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## CrappieReaper (Dec 22, 2008)

russ010 said:


> don't worry about removing all the foam - that only comes into play if you were to somehow flip the boat over



True, I happen to have this thing about operating safely. Even though I'll get her out on a big lake that is not very wind friendly, I've got enough boating experience to be able to make sure she tracks safe. Now if a Tornado happens to hit me, that's a whole nuther story.


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## Waterwings (Dec 22, 2008)

Nice work, and looking forward to the finished pics 8)


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## Henry Hefner (Dec 22, 2008)

Man, you have me jealous! I'm looking forward to the progress reports.


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## ilinimud (Dec 22, 2008)

Very nice looking boat. I am suprised you are making it into a tiller steer. I would love to have a console.


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## ben2go (Dec 22, 2008)

:WELCOME: 

Nice find and gud werk. =D>


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## CrappieReaper (Dec 22, 2008)

ilinimud said:


> Very nice looking boat. I am suprised you are making it into a tiller steer. I would love to have a console.



I thought long and hard about pulling the console. I would much rather have a center console, and thought about reworking the existing console and moving it to center. Then I got to thinking about how much room it would take up. Not to mention, the cost of revamping my '98 Tiller into a remote motor. I've made the right choice to be functional, as well as frugal. 

Thanks guys for the nice replies. When it's all said and done, I'll have the last tin boat I'll need in what's left of my life. I can picture the Crappie jumping into the boat just for a ride.


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## Zum (Dec 22, 2008)

Welcome aboard.
A 60hp on a 15.5,I bet she'll really scat.
Nice job so far,keep up the good work.


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## who pooted? (Dec 22, 2008)

Sweet boat CrappieReaper! You and your daughters will enjoy that for years to come.


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## ilinimud (Dec 24, 2008)

CrappieReaper said:


> ilinimud said:
> 
> 
> > Very nice looking boat. I am suprised you are making it into a tiller steer. I would love to have a console.
> ...



Well that makes sense. It will look great either way!


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## CrappieReaper (Dec 27, 2008)

Weather finally gave me a break enough to be able to slip the new transom into place. The original aluminum interior cover for the transom was beat up and had way too many holes in it from years past. I found a peice of .50 thousanths Aircraft grade aluminum big enough to cut a new one out. I was able to rerivet the back corner of the boat before darkness set in. Now I need to center the transom and interior plate and fasten into place. Next step after that is to re-install the backwash pan.


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## Captain Ahab (Dec 27, 2008)

Nice work!


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## CrappieReaper (Dec 28, 2008)

Today I fastened the bottom 8 bolts into place on the transom. Then I temporarily fastened in the old aluminum I removed with clecos so I can now figure out how I am going to re-engineer the back end of the boat into a Tiller model. I need to make sure I have room for a 6 gallon fuel tank while keeping in mind that I am going to need some room back there for a seat. 

The solid side panels you see in place will be gone as well as the aluminum deck. I'll have to fab some support brackets for the backwash tray. I really wanted to be able to leave the rear side panels in place for storage. I might have to put on my thinking cap and make something happen that will allow some storage back there while allowing for the 6 gallon tank, batteries and so forth. It's going to take a bit more labor than I had intended on, but it will be worth it to get her setup like I want.
















I've read over many mods and threads that are posted here and have seen several great looking boats come out of what was once someone elses nightmare rig. All of you should be proud of your accomplishments. I'm glad CrappieDentist told me about this site.

I have to concentrate on making a living for awhile and may not have any updates till I can start back on her, so stay tuned.


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## Big Buck (Dec 29, 2008)

Looks really good. Keep up the good work.


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## Zum (Dec 29, 2008)

Darn shame we have to concentrate on making a living sometimes.Your boat is looking nice,I'm sure you will be thinking of mods while your working.


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## CrappieReaper (Dec 30, 2008)

The weather was so nice today, I couldn't help myself but do something on the boat. One of the best things about Modding your own boat, is that you can make changes on the fly. I took a seat and pedestal off my glass boat, measured the tiller handle and placed the seat in the approximate area I would need a pedestal base. With all original aluminum still temped in place in the rear of the boat, I checked the amount of room I would have IF I left the sidewalls in place for storage compartments. It was cramped to a point and I first decided to go without any of it. Then thinking about it longer, I plan to do most my fishing from the front of the boat anyway. I normally go out by myself. I decided to leave it in and just modify the port side to allow room for the 6 gallon tank. There is still enough room to fish out of the back seat. I'll stick two seat bases back there, one for fishing and one for while underway. 

After I finally made up my mind, I started cutting, drilling, fabbing parts for the fuel area. It's all I got done, but I can start to see the final product.

















I'll save myself a bit of work, and have some decent storage.


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## sac (Dec 30, 2008)

Nice Project and work. Oh and nice Clecos  I was sheet metal in the AF


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## Big Buck (Dec 30, 2008)

I know this probally at silly question, but what are those things sticking up everywhere. Are those some kind of Rivot or something? Just a little curious.


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## sac (Dec 30, 2008)

Clecos. They hold the metal together after you drill a hole.


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## Jim (Dec 30, 2008)

Big Buck said:


> I know this probally at silly question, but what are those things sticking up everywhere. Are those some kind of Rivot or something? Just a little curious.



I was too!


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## Jim (Dec 30, 2008)

sac said:


> Nice Project and work. Oh and nice Clecos  I was sheet metal in the AF



:WELCOME:

Thanks for joining! :beer:


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## sac (Dec 30, 2008)

Jim said:


> sac said:
> 
> 
> > Nice Project and work. Oh and nice Clecos  I was sheet metal in the AF
> ...



Thanks for the warm welcome :USA1:


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## ben2go (Dec 30, 2008)

sac said:


> Clecos. They hold the metal together after you drill a hole.



We used thousands of them on aircraft to hold the sheet aluminum while we rivet it all together.They keep every thing exactly where you put it.Measure 10 times and cut once. :LOL2:


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## bassboy1 (Dec 30, 2008)

Big Buck said:


> I know this probally at silly question, but what are those things sticking up everywhere. Are those some kind of Rivot or something? Just a little curious.


The greatest thing made if you are riveting any metal. 

There is a little pair of pliers that goes with them, that grips the side, and pushes down on the button on the back. When that is depressed, the front squeezes together, so it will fit in the rivet hole. Then, by releasing the pressure on the pliers, they two tabs on the front pull apart and back, snugly holding the metal together. They are real great, as you can drill a hole, and stick it in, while drilling the next hole, so the material doesn't slip, causing the holes to not line up correctly. But, as opposed to sticking a rivet in each hole as you drill it, you can then remove the whole piece, even after the holes are drilled, to do something else behind said panel. 

They were originally designed for aircraft use, but the need for them elsewhere was quickly noticed, so they are in widespread use by most any place that rivets metals, especially aluminum.


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## CrappieReaper (Dec 31, 2008)

Thanks Sac and others. Glad you chimed in. I am my own inspector on this rig, and am keeping good ED, but don't think I am going to worry too much about a flunked rivet, but as long as I'm not gonna take her up to 35k' and stick massive amounts of pressure to her, it's all good. The clecos are a wonderful thing. I wish I could teach one of my 9 year olds to buck for those hard to reach spots. My cherry max gun bit the dust and may have to use a sheet metal screw at times on this boat. I've got a bit more fabbing and fitting yet to do, but it will all fall into place in time. Hopefully, my goal for the end of January will be met. Wish I could just spend all day working on it. All the other posts have been good input one way or another. I enjoy reading them.


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## CrappieReaper (Jan 4, 2009)

I was able to put some more time into the back end of the boat the last few days. I've got at least two more days worth of work to complete the "rough in" of the new "tillerized" area. I've stripped all the crap off the trailer to still have it legal and delivered it to Jake so it might get sandblasted as time constraints allow. Here's the photo update of what I was able to do recently.











I went ahead and modified both original side panels in the back of the boat that once had urethane foam in the areas into storage boxes. I cut each side down and trimmed the scrap piece up in order to make the turn on the storage box and fasten in to an existing rib. This gives me plenty of room in the back of the boat for a 6 gallon tank, batteries, bilge pump and areator. I will also be able to access the area fairly easy to be able to bolt transducers and such. On the port side, above the fuel tank will be a small box open top to house an anchor. The Starboard side will have a hinged lid to allow easy access to the top of the Batteries for connection and charging purposes.

I used the original 5/32" Aluminum decking that was part of the underdeck for fuel and battery storage area as the new decking for the very back of the boat. Notice I cut out part of it on each side to allow plug access, and bilge placement.











I have quite a way to go, but each day I put into it, gets me that much closer to my desired goal. I have not purchased one thing other than screws so far on the rebuilding project. All material that has not be recycled from the boats original setup, I had on hand in the shop.


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## Henry Hefner (Jan 4, 2009)

Looks great so far. Great pics! Pictures really tell the story. Keep 'em coming! 
opcorn:


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## Waterwings (Jan 4, 2009)

Lookin' real good! 8)


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## baptistpreach (Jan 8, 2009)

Very Nice! You got quite a hull to start with, and it looks like you're turning it into one amazing rig! Some day, I think, a deal like that will fall in my lap, and when it does, I'm gonna turn it into a fish catching machine!! In the mean time, I'm really loving turning my jon into a crappie and cat machine!


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## CrappieReaper (Feb 25, 2009)

I have finally started back on the Rebirth. I am starting to push hard as I have a camping trip scheduled for the 14th of March. Here's the poop....


CrappieDentist was unable to blast the trailer for me at his work till sometime in the Summer. I picked the trailer back up and he let me borrow his portable blaster setup. It was a major pain, but not that bad and the results were great! I was able to remove all rust and paint. 

One of the kids had set the camera up for B&W pics and I didn't realize it till after the SD card had been deleted. You can still tell a big difference though.































I'll complete the trailer with some solid sides for re-loading purposes on down the road. I don't want them in my way for now.

Before I put the boat back on the trailer, I wanted to get some more of the lower decking in. I pulled both sides of the rear decks to add doublers in the areas of the pedestal bases. I wanted to make sure I had some strength as I am going to have to used a wood screw vs. bolts to retain them. The side storage in the back really makes for a cramped area though. I am also placing all pedestal bases in the center. This allows whoever is sitting in one to be able to fish out of either side of the boat with nothing in the way. I am placing two pedestal bases in the back, one for operating the boat, the second for someone to fish out of. I moved it back towards the transom to give whoever is back there a little leg room. Most of the time, I'll be by myself, so it's no big thing. The forward section under deck was just too shallow to house a couple of batteries for the trolling motor. I've decided to stick them right under the bow cover at the front of the boat. It's a perfect fit for two! It will also add needed weight towards the front of the boat.
















I have the forward deck cut, lids for livewell and storage cut, am working on side panel storage to boot. I need to buy some plumbing supplies now to get the water lines run for the livewells, bilges and areators. Once that's done, I'll install the forward decking along with the lids. I still need to create a switch box for the back. I don't want any switches sticking out that can be accidently broken. I plan to do my best to have her ready for carpet sometime Sunday, but I have many things to do before then. 

I can begin to see the final product in my head and it looks to be a fine machine.


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## Brine (Feb 25, 2009)

Nice work. That thing is starting to look like a CAV.

Crappie Assault Vehicle.


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## russ010 (Feb 25, 2009)

this is one of the best mods I've seen... way to go to maximize the area in your boat.


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## Jim (Feb 25, 2009)

Brine said:


> Nice work. That thing is starting to look like a CAV.
> 
> Crappie Assault Vehicle.




:LOL2:

Nice work man! =D>


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## baptistpreach (Feb 25, 2009)

You are doing a fantastic job! Your level of workmanship is very thorough. I agree with Russ, this is going to be killer when its done. You also are a motivation to me, because I'm so close, and I wanted it done by now, so I really need to get moving!! Keep up the great work.


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## CrappieReaper (Feb 27, 2009)

Started the Plumbing last night. After 3 trips to Home Depot and Lowes, I thought I had what I needed to get to the point of fastening the forward deck into position. I was able to run some 3/4" pvc, but found I was short certain things. I plan to PU what I need on my way home tonight and get back after it. I am pushing for a March 11th completion date as I have a camping trip scheduled for the 13th. I want at least one day of on the water testing before I head for the campsite. It will give me the 12th to work out any kinks. Even if I don't have her complete by then, I hope to have it at least functional. Switches and final wiring connections can wait if need be. I can temp all that stuff in for the trip. But, if the weather holds up like it has, I should be able to have her dang near done on time.


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## CrappieReaper (Mar 1, 2009)

Went to Mizzou for Neices wedding yesterday. Been running some pipe in the boat for the bilge and areators. Everything is 3/4" schedule 40 pvc and reinforced 3/4" hose. I ran the rigid pvc everywhere I could so as not to have a hose close up on me where I couldn't reach it without tearing something out.

The front livewell I built sits too low to be able to drain it like a normal livewell. I have chosen to run a drain line towards the back connected to a shutoff valve then a Tee, the down to the bilge pump. The other side of the Tee has another shutoff valve then has a capped end with holes drilled on the underside to act as a recirculator to areate the water. The inflow comes from the areator at the back of the boat (with inline shutoff) and a 90% turned down to simply fill the livewell. I must be carefull to not leave the areator on too long or I will overfill the livewell. I have a float switch I might connect to the bilge pump to drain or am considering an audible alarm (quiet) to play while the areator is running.

Here's the pics, you can figure out what's what.



























I'm short one cap on the areator line in the Starboard livewell, but will pick one up tommorrow.

Next job is to figure exactly how many switches, wires, and what not is needed, then to get the rough in done on Electrical. Only then can I cap off the front deck and start final Metal work. I'll be very lucky to be able to lay some carpet this week. I am really trying to push this thing so I can make the Eufaula gig. Wish me luck!


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## Waterwings (Mar 1, 2009)

Dang, that's some plumbing work there! Looks good, and I hope you make your deadline! 8)


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## BloodStone (Mar 1, 2009)

CrappieReaper said:


> I forgot to mention that I plan to turn this boat into a tiller model. I want as much room inside the boat as possible. I came close to modifying it into a center console, but decided a tiller would be best. I currently have a '98, 60hp Mercury tiller that will do the trick.



*You should be in jail-Because you stole that boat! =D> It's kind of ironic, I have a boat project (14' shallow V) in which I am trying to install a center console in a boat that had none & is more suited for a tiller & you are doing just the opposite. :-k I know you want more room but, I'd seriously think about keeping or re-vamping that console system. Btw, just curious, whatcha planning on doing with the OB that came with that boat (especially since it ran so well after sitting for so long)?*


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## CrappieReaper (Mar 2, 2009)

BloodStone said:


> CrappieReaper said:
> 
> 
> > I forgot to mention that I plan to turn this boat into a tiller model. I want as much room inside the boat as possible. I came close to modifying it into a center console, but decided a tiller would be best. I currently have a '98, 60hp Mercury tiller that will do the trick.
> ...



First off, I have over 35' of 3/4" Schedule 40 in the boat.

The Mariner motor that came with it has been listed on Craigslist for the last 4 months with no serious inquirys other than one that was looking to lighten the weight of his 75hp. I have the motor listed for $775.00, it comes with the remote and stainless prop. The package is worth more as I have sold a 74, 50hp Merc on ebay for $750 just three years ago and a fellow from TN drove over to pick it up. I had a call on the motor last night with the guy wanting to trade guns, or a night scope for a rifle, and other hunting gear. I am not interested in trading for anything other than cash. I can't sell the guns on craigslist or ebay and I don't need them. I told him I would take $700. I also told him that I would suggest going through both carbs since the motor has so many "sitting" years just to make sure there is no dried up crap inside them. A new set of gaskets wouldn't hurt either as the old ones are most likely too dry from the years. One cylinder has 115 lbs compression, and the other is holding at 118 lbs. That's very balanced for a motor that old, ('82). With the 7+ years it has sit, to me makes it almost an '89 model. The guy who previously owned the boat really didn't know what he had.


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## Andy (Mar 2, 2009)

Looks good. 

I would like to point out something on the plumbing, can't really tell from the pics (cameras don't do angles well). Make sure that ALL the lines can drain good. Otherwise you'll be doing alot of repairs if water stands in them and freezes. Or you'll be out on the water, go to fill up the livewells and end up filling up the boat instead. I would hate to see a good days fishing ruined by a busted pipe.

Not cutting down on you're work, just trying to help save some trouble.

And if you're already aware of this, disreguard this post.


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## CrappieReaper (Mar 5, 2009)

Long day today. I was able to install the front deck with it's hinges, and install the side storage panels. 











I have a bit more of sheet metal work, some chases to build, and then I should be ready for some carpet.


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## baptistpreach (Mar 6, 2009)

Let me start off by saying again... WoW! You are building a fishing machine! I noticed your wood is cut to fit just right, but are you planning on carpetting it while the wood is in the boat? Seems like most people wrapped the carpet on the edges of the wood, and was wondering if that was your plan or not? Again, WoW!


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## baptistpreach (Mar 6, 2009)

Hey, what's the model of the boat and the size of it (length and width of floor)?


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## ben2go (Mar 6, 2009)

WOW! :shock: It's a deeper hull than I thought.


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## CrappieReaper (Mar 6, 2009)

baptistpreach said:


> Let me start off by saying again... WoW! You are building a fishing machine! I noticed your wood is cut to fit just right, but are you planning on carpetting it while the wood is in the boat? Seems like most people wrapped the carpet on the edges of the wood, and was wondering if that was your plan or not? Again, WoW!



Preach, to be honest, this is basically a temporary forward decking. I'm trying to slam this thing together for the upcoming season and make the camping trip that I am supposed to go on next Friday. I will be looking for another material for final deck. It's all removable. I don't plan on wrapping the carpet around the lid openings. The lids are bolted from top to bottom and I can remove them anytime to make adjustments to size. I would like to find some type of edge channel that I could wrap the plywood and carpet edges. I can trim the lids to whatever size I need to make room for any edge trim. Right now my goal is clean and functional. Gitter done is my current motto and quality will unfortunately have to be compromised for now. I can backtrack at a later time and make things right. I still have more metal to do, more plywood to cut and install, carpet, switches, top out of the wiring, Trolling Motor, Two graphs, GPS, transducers, 60hp Merc, etc. 

I've got my work cut out for me during the next 7 days. There is a good chance that I'll end up just wiring in the switches temporarily without build the switch boxs yet. I will deal with them one way or another.

I recently sold my old '98 PU that's been taking up the garage. Moving the boat in to work on it helps my progress an awful lot.


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## CrappieReaper (Mar 6, 2009)

ben2go said:


> WOW! :shock: It's a deeper hull than I thought.



24" deep, then gets less within 5' of the bow.


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## CrappieReaper (Mar 6, 2009)

baptistpreach said:


> Hey, what's the model of the boat and the size of it (length and width of floor)?



The boat is an '80, Travler Sea Nymph. I am fairly sure it was one of the possible prototypes for the Bass Tracker and they didn't get the bid. Could have been that it was "too much boat" in my opinion. This boat was very well made.

She is 16'4" from top of transom to tip of bow. 
The rear deck is 50" wide at the floor and 72" wide up top.
The middle deck is 48" at the floor.
The front deck has 44" between the side storage panels on top of the deck worth of floor space.
The sidewalls are 24" deep.

Like I said early is this thread, I wanted the safety and stability. This is why I haven't raised the deck at all. Matter of fact, I lowered the midsection somewhat by removing the leveling braces that were originally in it and let the deck go with the flow of the ribs. IE, I have a slight "V" in the mid deck flooring which does not bother me at all. 

I want to thank everyone for their input and the ideas just from looking over the other threads.


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## yjsaindon (Mar 9, 2009)

=D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> 
I'm wicked impressed! Well done. You may have already said it but I haven't read the entire post yet. Do you have a rough estimate on how much you've put into it? 
Gabriel


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## CrappieReaper (Mar 9, 2009)

yjsaindon said:


> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D>
> I'm wicked impressed! Well done. You may have already said it but I haven't read the entire post yet. Do you have a rough estimate on how much you've put into it?
> Gabriel



Gave 5 bills for the boat, sold the motor for $750. Materials so far have probably been around $170 total. I cannot find two hinges I need that are similar to the ones that were originally on the boat. (8 hours of google searching) I had most of the plywood in stock as scrap from jobs I've done. I did buy one sheet of 3/4 BC. All aluminum was with the original boat other than the front live well material which was left over from a mod 9 years ago. I had all rivets in stock. It's the little things that have added up, new trailer wiring, new bearing buddies, bolts, nuts, screws, washers, on and on. The carpet is extra from a job last year when the customer wanted a 12' x 18' area tiled once I had purchased the carpet for it. 

I guess the biggest expense for it so far has been the Lowrance unit I bought back in October off ebay for $420.
I've spent more on electricity feeding the big compressor since the project began that I have on the boat itself. It's been fun. 

Currently, all wood is cut to fit, most areas are ready to carpet. I need to fab a switch box and get the switches wired in so all I have to do is poke them through later. I have been trying like the dickens to have it complete by Friday morning, but have had way too many personal interuptions. I might have to make the camping trip this weekend with several things on a temporary connection.


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## CrappieReaper (Mar 16, 2009)

Little more wood added. Then I did up a switch box along with getting some wiring done.














































I still need a couple of hinges for back storage lids, may have to modify something to get the hinge I want. Also, I love the LED Courtesy lights I put in. I have them switched for front of back of boat operation. Me and two of the kids took it out for a trip Saturday afternoon. With an 18 year son and a 17 year old daughter, I was able to get her up to a little over 32m[h after trimming it out. I was impressed with the ride. I am going to be very happy with it. The bait well worked great, as well the fwd livewell. Had an impeller go out too, I changed it today. I am down to minimal sheet metal work, the missing storage lid hinges, carpet, latches and 3 finger pulls for the floor storage.


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## ben2go (Mar 16, 2009)

That is just cool.I like that layout.Nice rig.


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## baptistpreach (Aug 14, 2009)

Hey, did you finish the boat? I'm really hoping you have!!


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## Nussy (Nov 29, 2009)

Did you ever finish your boat. I'm considering buy the same boat and would love to see your finished product.


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