# Retrieve a 14' jonboat ; extended trailer tongue



## Blackdogxx (Aug 13, 2012)

I cannot upload a pic, but here is the problem: At a shallow ramp w. pier to walk out on, and using a Corolla with a trailer behind and a 5' extension to the tongue, I can launch and retrieve without the tailpipe or rear wheels in the water. Good so far. 

At retrieve, the tongue extension is under water and narrow. I need a way to get the flat bottom 14' jon boat on the carpeted bunks enough to attach the winch hook. And when I drive away I want 1) my feet dry and 2) the boat stable and partially on the bunks. The trolling motor is bow mounted and foot controlled (reservoir lake is electric only), so no option to 'power on' to the trailer and no helper.

My best idea so far is to back the trailer down close to the pier side, get on the pier, use a rope attached to the boat front and pull the boat between the 2 trailer guide posts and starting on to the bunks a foot or so. Then climb in the boat and pull it with a rope close enough to the winch to grab the hook and attach it to the boat front. I am considering that a small pulley attached to the boat side (rear) of the winch upright might make the pulling easier on the hands by multiplying the force and allow attaching the hook as I step on the rope or hold it (I may add plastic 1X4s on top of the carpeted bunks soon... to make them slick). 

Any other good ideas? Keep feet dry, the entire tongue will be under water, 1 person and a pier/concrete shallow ramp, and no motor use is available. Those are the restrictions and don't even offer 'wading boots' as an option.


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## earl60446 (Aug 13, 2012)

Is that a 5 inch or 5 foot extension? Must be 5 inch, can't imagine anyone with a 5 foot extension.
In any case

1. Get an electric winch, extend rope / strap to the rear of the trailer.
2. Fasten to an upright you can reach from boat.
3. Back down the ramp. Have trailer near pier. 
4. Get in boat, move to trailer, grab the winch rope / strap and fasten to the bow eye. 
5. Get out of boat and use remote of electric winch to pull the boat onto the trailer.

Tim


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## Kismet (Aug 13, 2012)

I am probably mis-understanding, but...

why not put a loop in the bow line, extend the winch line, and hook the two together? Then winch up the boat to the loop, re-attach the winch to the boat, and bring it the rest of the way up.

On my 12 and 14 foot boats, I usually just horse them up with the bow line. Not that heavy, but I have to watch my footing on the slick ramp.

Best wishes.


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## boejali (Aug 13, 2012)

Differant approach, the tongue on my trailer was bent and a bit short so for $35 got a new piece of 2x3 tube drilled a couple holes and had a longer tongue. Granted the trailer was in pieces at this point since I was replacing all the hardware/sanding/painting but a differant option.


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## Frogman Ladue (Aug 13, 2012)

What I do when there is a dock/pier involved,...the last thing I do before I put the boat in the water is hit the release on the winch, pull the strap out, clip the hook via caribiner to the guide post, let the strap lay loose over the gunwale, reset the rachet on the winch. At this point I put the boat in the water like anyone else. 

When I got to take it out, I run the electric motor full tilt, aiming the boat at the bunks. I pull up the motor and let the bow coast between the guides and into the bunk area. I reach over and grab the winch hook (which is now right along side of me, attached to the guide on), Hook the hook to the bow, allow the stern to swing to the dock so I can get out. Go to the winch, pull it up. I'm dry, and the boat pointed strait enough on the bunks to pull it up without screwing around.

Ya got 20' plus of cable, strap, or rope on the winch...might as well use it.


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## J.P. (Aug 13, 2012)

what about putting on waders? sometimes, we really have to get into the water, so having waders will be very handy....


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## bgeddes (Aug 13, 2012)

Skip the trailer tongue extension and and extend your hitch. 

I use a 3'-ish piece of 2x2 square tubing, 3/8" wall, and welded a piece to mount a trailer ball on the end, and added a hole for the hitch pin. Arrive at a tough ramp, chock and disconnect the trailer, switch from regular ball mount to extended, and back down the ramp. I would never drive down the road with the extension in place, but for the low speed ramp duty it is fine.


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## Blackdogxx (Aug 14, 2012)

Apparently not many read the post I made: I do not want to wade in the water at all and the trailer extension is 5' and collapsable for towing. The car is a little Corolla and the ramp is a shallow ANGLE, so the 2 things make a problem getting deep enough to keep the tailpipe and rear wheel axle out of the water. 

I built a possible solution to slip over lenghth of the tongue: a 6" board attached with 'L' brackets that align and fasten the board to the top of the tongue firmly. then I will walk out on it to retrieve the boat at the pier. Launch is not a problem, only retrieving (access to the winch hook for the front of the boat and getting the boat up on the bunks). 

Thanks for the replies that addressed the situation after reading my post.


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## Blackdogxx (Aug 14, 2012)

Apparently not many read the post I made: I do not want to wade in the water at all and the trailer extension is 5' and collapsable for towing. The car is a little Corolla and the ramp has a shallow ANGLE, so the 2 things make a problem getting deep enough to keep the tailpipe and rear wheel axle out of the water. 

I built a possible solution to top the length of the tongue: a 6" board attached with 'L' brackets that align and fasten the board to the top of the tongue firmly. Then I will walk out on it to retrieve the boat at the pier. Launch is not a problem, only retrieving (access to the winch hook for the front of the boat and getting the boat up on the bunks). 

Thanks for the replies that addressed the situation after reading my post.


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## Frogman Ladue (Aug 15, 2012)

Blackdogxx said:


> Apparently not many read the post I made: I do not want to wade in the water at all and the trailer extension is 5' and collapsable for towing. The car is a little Corolla and the ramp has a shallow ANGLE, so the 2 things make a problem getting deep enough to keep the tailpipe and rear wheel axle out of the water.
> 
> I built a possible solution to top the length of the tongue: a 6" board attached with 'L' brackets that align and fasten the board to the top of the tongue firmly. Then I will walk out on it to retrieve the boat at the pier. Launch is not a problem, only retrieving (access to the winch hook for the front of the boat and getting the boat up on the bunks).
> 
> Thanks for the replies that addressed the situation after reading my post.




_Apparently_, some one has butt hurt over a number of solid replies.


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## Zum (Aug 15, 2012)

I heard making those bunks slick(like u mentioned)really makes the boat slide.
I'd just try the method your already doing with that before messing with pulley's(one step at a time).
Is it possible to add some platforms to the extension?
Are you a clown,how about stilts or pole vault
I frequent shallow launches alot,as long as I can get the trailer bunks close to underwater,I just drive the boat up,walk out on the frame and winch it up abit.I have a truck though so I can hop in the box and jump in the door,Some "ramps" I go to the theres 20' of water in front of the boat.I'm making some bunk slicks tomorrow,thinking it might help me launch/retreive.


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## theyyounggun (Aug 15, 2012)

It's Ok to get your tires and tail pipe in the water. Just use a long rope to load it back on. Get off at the pier and walk to the ramp letting slack out and then just pull it onto the trailer


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## spotco2 (Aug 15, 2012)

Lets step outside the box for a solid solution.

Add a tall piece of something to the back corner of your trailer about the same height (or a little taller) than the sides of your boat. You could even use this as a guide if you're into multi-tasking. Place a small hook or even tie a loop of rope near the top of that tall piece.

Back your boat in until you are happy leaving the wench strap attached to the boat. Jump in boat and float it backwards until the front is in line with the guide post. Unhook wench strap from boat and attach it to guide post. Beach your boat or tie up at the dock, drive your car away from ramp, park, get in boat and enjoy your day.

When you get back, back your car back in so you are ready. Lock your wench. Get in boat and get near your trailer. Grab your wench hook and attach a piece of rope to it long enough that you can sit or stand at the back of your boat. This will pull the front of the boat up out of the water and you can probably pull your boat far enough up on your trailer to get out, walk the plank and finish wenching it up.

I've done this with a 18' bass boat several times when it was having engine issues and I was launching and loading by myself. It's much easier than floating the boat out from the beach on a 50' rope trying to pull it manually up on the trailer alone.


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## Blackdogxx (Aug 19, 2012)

Here is how I solved it if others have a small car and a shallow ramp angle .... which means you need a longer trailer tongue and are willing to make an extension that collapses inside the main square trailer tube.... 
I added 5' of length for only at the launch and retrieve... not towing on the road. It works well. To keep a walkway out to the boat winch for a retrieve I made a 5' board platform with a pair of L brackets on the underside. The bracket pairs fit over the trailer main section in front of the winch post and over the collapsible extension near the coupler/ball. 
The L brackets have 3 holes in them and so I clamp the brackets to the tongue with a bolt/wing nut so that the board is raised over the water a bit. 

After retrieve, I put the board on the boat, collapse the tongue extension and secure the boat and drive home. Total cost for the extension and board project is about 25-35 dollars, maybe. Use available scrap wood, bolts,etc. and bought the tongue extension for $10 at a steel yard as an offcut 6' long (use 1' to ensure it is solid inside the original trailer main square tube.


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