# 16' Ouachita Mod by 3 guys with some beer



## tfizzle172 (Feb 5, 2011)

Hey all, my buddy got his hands on a 16 foot flat bottom that was a frozen ice block in the middle of a field and we are going to attempt to make some handy modifications to it. We have been researching all the fantastic ideas from all of you here at Tinboats.net, and can't wait to get this thing on the water. Any help along the way will be greatly appreciated, because our ideas keep changing by the minute every time we look at a different mod on the site!!! I'm having trouble posting pictures if anyone can help me out with that one....I will try to get some up asap once I figure it out.


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## tfizzle172 (Feb 6, 2011)

Okay, here is my attempt to resize the pictures and try to get them to post up alright....


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## Brine (Feb 6, 2011)

Welcome aboard tfizzle, and great tin you got there. When you get a moment, update your profile so we know what part of the world you live.

Looks like a different boat after it was cleaned out. What plans do you have for it?


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## Oldgeek (Feb 6, 2011)

Welcome, I'm about where you are...sorting through all the great ideas on here can make it tough to decide. Did the boat have a former life as a trash can? :lol: That's the easy part to fix. Mine had a bunch of trash/dead minnows frozen in about 3 inches of water. Where you located?


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## tfizzle172 (Feb 6, 2011)

Thanks for the welcome guys. We have been working on the boat quite a bit lately, and I will post some progress pictures. It's pretty cold here in Indiana, so we are not sure on when we will get to start painting.

Plans for now:
Prep boat for paint (take it down to aluminum)
Mock up a raised front deck (3/4" ply) stretching from middle seat to front of boat (bow? Lol, no sure on terminology!)
We will put in floor in middle (1/2" ply?)
Not decided fully how we are going to mod the back seat
Probly Spar Varnish all the wood framing (2x2's) and transom boards
Once weather permits apply steelflex to bottom

Questions:
1) we removed the transom bracket in order to start repleacing the boards, drilling out the rivets. Is there an easy way to re-attach the bracket when ready?

2) when looking at everyone's decking, it looks very "clean" and I don't see how they are affixing it to the seats through the carpet. Does most everybody use small screws through the carpet to attach to framing? or what's the trick?

Thanks for the help.


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## tfizzle172 (Feb 6, 2011)

Ok, here are some more pics of the mock up we are doing for the decking and transom board(s), and most of outside has been wire wheeled down to aluminum. I have looked for threads about how to best attach the carpeted wood down, but can't find specifically how guys are doing this if anyone has a suggestion please (i.e.- use screws same color of carpet? use washers? :


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## tfizzle172 (Feb 6, 2011)

Been using the advanced search to try and find out how everyone is is fastening their decking down and see what looks like some fastening through the carpet (and I just can't see the screws in the pictures), and some prefer to try to put carpet on deck after fastening down and push it in to edges with a putty knife. There's a ton of threads to sift through to find specific info on it, but a lot of good information, but I will take anyone's two cents that has the experience since we are rookies at this!!! Thanks in advance.

Tfizz


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## natestep (Feb 7, 2011)

When I did mine I carpeted the decks and then just screwed the decks down with small headed screws. They hide in the carpet when they sink down. Just fluff the carpet with your hand and you cant see them anymore.


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## tfizzle172 (Feb 7, 2011)

Thanks Natestep......I know it was a silly question, but we really want to keep that clean look, glad it's that easy of an answer!!!


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## HOUSE (Feb 7, 2011)

You gotta love those times when you're walking through a field and you stumble upon a free boat!

Nice work so far guys.


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## Brine (Feb 7, 2011)

The knee brace is the piece of metal that attaches to the floor and your transom. I would simply bolt it back on with some 3M 5200. Make sure to seal that tramsom, and after you've drilled out the holes for the bolts to attach it, take the board back out and seal the inside of the holes you drilled. Then reinstall it.

The same rule applies (for me anyway) with all of your framing. I'd do a dry fit with it all, label it, disassembe it, then use a sealer (like a spar urethane) and put it back together. The framing should last a long time that way. 

I like the idea of installing the carpet by wrapping the plywood with the carpet and stapling it to the back of the plywood while using carpet glue. Make sure to use a carpet with a rubber back, and a rolling pin seems to be a good tool for smoothing out the carpet on the glue if you have one available that won't put you in the doghouse for using. Once again, make sure to use a sealer on your plywood paying extra attention to the edges of the ply. Then simply screw the deck down to your framing. Most screws will practically vanish in the carpet. They sell coated deck screws in various colors if you with, or you can take a sharpie and color the screw head black. I think the coated screws are a good option for all of the framing, and if you use them, you could justify using the ones on the deck. You can also buy the screw/grommet combo that (in my opinion) looks good too. You don't need many screws going from your deck to the framing below. Just enough to keep it held down. 

Also, make sure any metal hardware you are attaching to your boat is either aluminum or stainless steel to prevent corrosion (rust) between the two dissimilar metals.

Good luck, and it looks like you're making good progress.


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## tfizzle172 (Feb 7, 2011)

Thanks for the input guys!

Brine, thanks for all the good info, we have it on the list to buy some Marine Spar Varnish. I assume on the knee brace you mean we should get some rounded head bolts, similar to a rivet head and put them up through the bottom to hold the bracket, and I will pick up a tube of 3M 5200 to seal it up. Thanks, we didn't want to have to mess with rivets or buying a rivet gun.


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## baseball_guy_99 (Feb 8, 2011)

When I redid the transom in my boat, we replaced the rivets with I think 3/8" Stove Bolts. We also added a rubber washer and silicone (but I would reccomend using the 3m5200).


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## Encoreman (Feb 8, 2011)

So is it final. The name of the boat is "THE ICE BOX"? I like it. Good project boat. Ain't it amazing all the junk you find it a boat and the bed of a used pick-up??


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## tfizzle172 (Feb 22, 2011)

Guys,

Need some suggestions on how to install the piano hinges for hatches so they are hidden, with clean look? is that possible?
Here are some updated pics!


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## atuck593 (Feb 22, 2011)

Looks Great...I can't wait to start mine. When you seal the wood for the floor and decking does it have to be Spar Urethane or would a Thompson's Water Sealer work just as well? Is there any added benefit to using the Spar?


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## kriley (Feb 22, 2011)

I have a 16' 1975 Quachita B boat that I am removing wood, coolers(live wells), transom wood, and looking for leaking rivets. I have some pictures and will try to post when desktop computer is repaired. I am having a hard time getting wood out of the transom. Some of the wood was dry rotted and flaking off, most of the screws holding transom wood to boat broke; but the wood is up in corners of boat and comes down and flares out. I am using wood chisels to get it out but this is a slow process and I do not know how I could replace this without doing it in 2 pieces or cutting into the boat. Were can I get Aluminum screws to use on the transom?

This is my first post, maybe I should have done this as a new post but I saw Quachita and replied.

Thanks Kevin


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## tfizzle172 (Feb 23, 2011)

Thanks for the replies guys,

We are very new at this as well, but I have learned that you have to balance all your decisions on if you have the money to do it right the first time or not. We are trying to put as little money into this project as possible, however; Everything I have read on this site says to use Spar varnish with marine durability (Rustoleum makes it, also Cabot at Lowe's), and it has UVA,UVB protective qualities also. Most people will tell you that Thompson's is only good for a few years, which I agree, cause I have to seal my deck on my house every so often. Spar is the way to go if you want it sealed right. Scratch it with some steel wool between coats if doing multiple coats.

The aluminum screws I'm not so sure on, but I do know you can get them at Fastenal, a company that specializes in that. If you go to Lowe's or similar, be sure anything you get for boat is either stainless steel (best) or galvanized, or even coated deck screws. Zinc coated will eventually rust, but again, if you don't mind replacing it a handfull of years down the road then so be it. We are using some zinc and deck screws on the inside framing that we don't anticipate will ever get wet. But moisture could corrode them over time I'm sure. Hope this helps.

Fizz


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## Brine (Feb 23, 2011)

looking good man. Regarding your piano hinges and concealing them.....

There are two ways of installing them (parallel or perpindicular) to the decks. I have seen guys do both here. If they are installed perpindicular (standing up), you will only see the hinged part of the hinge. If you do it parallel (flat on the decks), you see the entire hinge. 

If you are to install them perpindicular, you should take some consideration into the screw holding ability into the side of plywood. bassboy (on a rare wood build) modded a boat where he used lumber around the edges of his hatches for improved (an needed IMO) screw holding. It required some guling, buiscuiting, clamping etc... to make it happen this way. Not sure the thickness of plywood you used, but it's certainly an option to simply screw in the hinge this way without the additional lumber, just knowing that the hatches would need some extra consideration in how they are used if you wanted them to last. I've also seen guys do that on here, but can't remember off hand who, to ask how they are holding up. 

For the guys who lay them parallel, I've seen folks cover all but the pivot part of the hinge with carpet, some dado out the thickness of the hinge from the plywood so the hinge lays flat (level) with the plywood, some don't, and some simply attach the hinge on top of the carpet. I don't know that any are right or wrong, but simply personal preference.

If you scour the builds, you should see an example of just about every possible hinge configuration.


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## dyeguy1212 (Feb 23, 2011)

I did my piano hinges perpendicular, straight into the plywood. Has held up just fine (surprisingly enough). If you aren't beating the crap out of your hatches, there's no reason you can't install them perp (assuming you're using a plywood thickness around 3/4" with screws on the small side).

At the end of the day, it'll be your call. In theory you'd think going straight into the side of the plywood wouldn't last, but in my experience it works just fine.


Either way I wouldn't suggest putting a piano hinge flat on the deck, as it looks like crap. If you decide you want to hinge in in that fashion, I'd go with 2 or 3 smaller hinges, instead of one big ugly one. Just my opinion.


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## atuck593 (Feb 23, 2011)

Thanks for the advice...


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## reedjj (Feb 24, 2011)

That front deck looks huge. you will def have a lof of room to move around up there. Keep the pics comin! Great work guys!


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## bnseymour (Feb 25, 2011)

Hey all, I'm 1 of the "3 guys w/ some beer" working on this mod. This boat was a wedding present to my Dad from my Mother back in 1973. I can still think back to the summers Dad would take my broyher and I out on the river to do some fishing. Dad gave me the boat so me and my 2 best buds are going to "pimp" it out. Cant wait to see the look on Mom and Dads face when they see the finished product. The decks and floor are mocked up and latches are cut. I will be coating all wood with and oil base paint at least 2 coats then it will all be rapped w/ rubber backed carpet. I think these steps (oil paint & rubber back carpet) will make it pretty water tight.. We do have a few names in the works...1. The mistress...2. miss behavin...3. flat bottom girl..let me know what yall think. Thanks for all the feed back.


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## bnseymour (Feb 28, 2011)

we are getting closer..all the wood is done and we are just waiting on me to get some $$ to get the carpet so we can finish the latches and hindges. in the mean time i will be grinding on the trailer and running new wires for the new lights this weekend. I might even paint the trailer if the weather is good. We will try to post more pics when we can.


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## tfizzle172 (Mar 4, 2011)

Okay so here we are...148 beers later....and ole' T. Fizz is goin' feeshin' tomorrow!

p.s.-Our guy here can weld like nobody's business!!! I had to give him some action shots on the site for all his girlfriends[attachment=4]


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## Greenedog (Mar 19, 2011)

Looking good guys! Can't wait to see the finished product.


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## tfizzle172 (Mar 22, 2011)

OK all, we have our framing sealed and painted, leaky rivets have been 5200'd or jb welded, and we have got most of the paint job done. We still have some work to do on the black stripe, it didn't come out like we wanted it to, so we will do some work on it and then have to attach our hatches and carpet the decking. Almost done!!!!


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## tfizzle172 (Apr 1, 2011)

OK, more pics of our progress, we are finishing up the painting, gonna put several coats of clear coat on it, and we have begun carpeting....WooooHooo!!!


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## The Outdoorsman (Apr 1, 2011)

she looks good, boat does too! :lol: Maybe I missed it, but how wide is she?


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## tfizzle172 (Apr 1, 2011)

Outdoorsman,

Flat Bottom Girl is 36", so we are anxious to see how she does with the decking once she's on the water!!! We also have to run electrical for trolling motor, some lighting, radio and speakers that we anticipate installing. Won't be long, we have to get it done for a man trip we are taking to the Barbee Chain in northern Indiana, in early May!

T. Fizz


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## bnseymour (Apr 15, 2011)

Here are a few more pics of the build..we are just about finished..hope ya'll like what we have done so far.


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## JohnT (Apr 15, 2011)

Nice Job , I love the name of your boat .


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## dyeguy1212 (Apr 15, 2011)

JohnT said:


> Nice Job , I love the name of your boat .




Why didn't I think of that!? #-o


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## tfizzle172 (Apr 21, 2011)

Ok all,

So here are the latest pics, all we have left is a few more coats of clear coat and then a test run!!!


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## fender66 (Apr 21, 2011)

How on earth have I missed this build. This is GREAT! Love the boat name too. You guys have done awesome. I'm sure you're going to catch a lot of fish!

Oh...and WELCOME.....(Better late than never) #-o


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## MDFisherman57 (Apr 21, 2011)

very nice looking. How does that boat hold up with that short trailer? Also are you gonna use a tiller hanger extension because from the picture it looks like a fair distance?


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## bnseymour (Apr 25, 2011)

That trailer worked out well for my Dad when he had the boat. When we brought the boat down here to southern Indiana from north west Indiana it road great. It is a little short on the back end but it does its job...As far as the handle on the motor goes, We put the front seat in that location so the guy in the back will have plenty of leg room on the back deck, When driving we will just take the seat pole out and then plug the seat into the base and we should be ok to reach back to the motor and my legs / feet will rest just fine on the middle floor deck. We havent had a chance to take the "Flat Bottom Girl" out for a test run to see how she will hold up with all 3 of us, our gear, and all the extra weight we added w/ the decks. I have a merc 9.9 and think it will push us just fine. I just hope we dont feel like we are balanceing on a basketball because it is only 36" wide. Other posts have said we will do fine others said its if'y. We will be takeing her to our yearly fishing trip up in North manchester, IN in 2 weeks so I will be sure to take more pic's as well as post how she did for all you guys who have a 1636...Thnanks again for all the feed back. I had a great time doing the mod w/ my 2 best buds


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## blueultra2 (Apr 25, 2011)

So how did you end up fastening the carpeted panels to the framing?


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## Brine (Apr 25, 2011)

Nice job man. Hope the test run goes well.


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## tfizzle172 (Apr 27, 2011)

blueultra2,

We just screwed the decking down to the wood framing right through the deck and carpet with coated deck screws. U can see them up close, but they mainly disappear in the nap of the carpet.


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