# now it begins



## scottbustech (Mar 3, 2008)

heres the material 4ftx12ftx1/8in now the fun begins hacking seats out and finalizing front deck plans the other pic is of my soon too be removable bowfishing platform


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## Jim (Mar 3, 2008)

Cool man! 

Can't wait to see the progress being made!


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## Waterwings (Mar 3, 2008)

That's gonna be a cool conversion! 

What are you going to use the cut the metal?


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## Toulle (Mar 3, 2008)

I really like that material in the first pic. It looks like marston matting. Is that what you are going to build the actual deck out of, or is that the framing.


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## scottbustech (Mar 4, 2008)

the perforated stuff is gonna be the deck for the bow fishing platform with braces below it and a rail above it and as far as cutting it im not sure exactly what my friend with all the fab stuff welder and cutting torch and stuff is flaking out on me so probably a jig saw


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## Captain Ahab (Mar 4, 2008)

scottbustech said:


> the perforated stuff is gonna be the deck for the bow fishing platform with braces below it and a rail above it and as far as cutting it im not sure exactly what my friend with all the fab stuff welder and cutting torch and stuff is flaking out on me so probably a jig saw



You need to drag that boat to the BassBoy1 fabrication and all around fix it shop!


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## bassboy1 (Mar 4, 2008)

A cutting torch isn't going to be of much use, as it cuts ferous metals, and aluminum is nonferous. You can do it with a fine tooth metal cutting blade on a jig saw, but you will wear yourself out pretty quick. That is a very tedious method. If you go slowly, you can cut it with a carbide wood cutting blade on a table saw, or circular saw. A 60, or 80 tooth carbide blade is real nice, but as long as you go slow, you could probably do it just fine on a coarser ripping blade. If on the table saw, you can use the fence and make nice straight cuts. For relatively thin stuff, (.063 or so) you could turn the blade around backwards, but I wouldn't do that on .125. Keep it lubricated. This may mean stopping every 3 feet or so, and relubing the blade, or just smearing a bit on the cut line. 

Just clear out all your saw dust, wear long everythings, and especially a full face mask. Those shaving are hot, and they fly pretty quickly.


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## Popeye (Mar 4, 2008)

I'd rent (or buy) some power shears to cut that aluminum


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## bassboy1 (Mar 4, 2008)

flounderhead59 said:


> (or buy) some power shears to cut that aluminum


To get a good set that will efficiently do .125 or bigger, it will cost upwards of 900 bucks. We have been toying that option for a while, just don't yet have the funds. 'Round here, you can rent them for about 40 bucks a day. For now, we settle with our table saw.


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## pbw (Mar 4, 2008)

What are the specs on your boat?


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## scottbustech (Mar 4, 2008)

the specs are 1448 smokercraft 090 hull 20 inch transom rated for a 25 horse im thinkin ill buy or rent a set of shears and if i measured right i will only have too cut the big sheet too length not width so thats only 4 ft wide 1 cut hardest part is removing the welded in seats grr lol


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## switchback (Mar 5, 2008)

At work we use a skill saw with carbide tip blade for straight cuts and bandsaw for curved pieces depending on size.


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## Waterwings (Mar 5, 2008)

:idea: If you use a cutting wheel for the aluminum, ensure you use a cutting/grinding wheel designed for non-ferrous metal (aluminum). A wheel not designed for non-ferrous metal can clog with material, overheat, and then breakup (explode), causing major personal injury. Safety First! 8)


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## scottbustech (Mar 10, 2008)

a little update i got the seats out now i need too finish trimming the remainder of the seats I ended up using a sawzall on the seats. I also found out im gonna have too notch my sheet for each rib in the boat as the 48 inch sheet is just about 1 inch wider than the inside of the ribs. id post pics but im having a hard time resizing them


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## Captain Ahab (Mar 11, 2008)

Scott - email me the pics and I will resize them. Or, here is a simple, online program to resize pictures.

https://www.shrinkpictures.com/


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## RAPALA (Mar 12, 2008)

I CUT MOST OF MY ALUM. WITH A PLASMA CUTTER.AND SOME WITH A SAWS ALL WITH A WOOD BLADE IN IT.IF YOU CUT IT WITH A SAWS-ALL USE A FILE AND A SIDE GRINDER TO SMOOTH THE SIDES THE WAY YOU WANT IT. THE PLASMA CUTTER WORKS BEST.


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## bAcKpAiN (Mar 12, 2008)

Rapala, I think your capslock might be stuck .


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## scottbustech (Mar 12, 2008)

esquired i tried too resize with your program still didnt work coul ya pm me your email so i can post them pics?


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## Jim (Mar 12, 2008)

scottbustech said:


> esquired i tried too resize with your program still didnt work coul ya pm me your email so i can post them pics?



Send them to me and I will do it. [email protected] I will resize them and send them back to you.


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## scottbustech (Mar 15, 2008)

thanks for your help heres the pics as promised now i got too clean up where the seats were mounted couse without the seats i can now get my grinder in there


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## scottbustech (Mar 19, 2008)

too extend my front deck and use the .060 aluminum from my seats too make the actual decking out of what do you all suggest for bracing under neath the new deck im thinking 1 inch square stock spaced about 12 inches apart and a few braces out of same material? any help apreciated


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