# convert to stick steer?



## bikeordie092 (Jan 8, 2013)

ok, so i have a '67 evinrude 18hp and its a tiller steer... i am in the middle of "re-modifying" my boat and i would like to look into making it a stick steer in the process... the motor almost seems like it was made for something like that, looks as if it has "brackets" for the throttle and shift linkage, and a hole in the bar on the front of the bottom half of the motor... my question is, how would one go about making "home made" stick steer controls for a motor like this? it would have to have 3 different sticks if i am correct.. one for shifting, one for throttle, and one for steering.. any input on how to not spend hundreds of dollars into making this happen? i have some pretty handy fabricating skills.....


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## morvis (Jan 8, 2013)

The guy I bought mine from happened to hang on to the up front steering system, and it's just that... on the left a big lever forward is right, back is left, and on the right side are 2 levers, one for shift and one for throttle. I put mine back on, and i think it's great. Good luck on the fab... there are systems you can get on the net for a couple hundred bucks.

Also https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-EVINRUDE-OUTBOARD-MOTOR-SHIFT-AND-THROTTLE-CONTROLS-JOHNSON-/140902404985?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item20ce701379&vxp=mtr

there are various random ones you can find around.


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## bikeordie092 (Jan 8, 2013)

well, the more i think about it, the more i start to incorporate car parts into this lol (i work at autozone). im thinking i may find really long choke cables for the shift and throttle linkage, but im not sure on the one for the steering, as i know it would have to be more heavy duty than the other 2...


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## thudpucker (Jan 8, 2013)

I dreamed this up some years ago for a big ChrisCraft.
You could modify the input for your stick.
Nice think about Hydraulics is the ratio is variable. You can make it 10:1 or 1:10.


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## bikeordie092 (Jan 8, 2013)

im not the best with hydraulics, but wouldnt i need one pump for each direction? or would it "suck" the lever the other way as well? i would need 3 2-way levers to make it happen


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## JMichael (Jan 9, 2013)

I'm all for home made/DIY and saving bucks. But IMO it would be one thing to make home built controls, but to accomplish all of this via hydraulics would be another mater entirely. You'd need one pump, 3 cylinders, 3 valves, lots of hoses, and of course a means of driving the hydraulic pump. Just looking at that alone, haven't you lost sight of your goal of not spending hundreds on this. 

If you're going to attempt to do this, I would think you would almost have to go with the standard (teleflex or whatever brand) cables that are made for this purpose. Partially because of the length of cable required and because the cable must be able to push and pull, but mostly because the cost of the shift/throttle cables are not that much. Steering cables are a bit more expensive though. I haven't priced any stick steer units but I know you can pick up a single lever shift/throttle control for less than $30 if you watch ebay. So for around $70 you could have a pretty nice shift and throttle setup with new cables. Stick steer systems seem to run $260 ish on ebay and that doesn't include the $100 worth of hardware to connect the steering cable to the motor. So that would seem to be the place where a DIY approach might be able to save some $$$. But that's just my rambling on the subject so turn back to your regular channel now.


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## bikeordie092 (Jan 9, 2013)

JMichael said:


> I'm all for home made/DIY and saving bucks. But IMO it would be one thing to make home built controls, but to accomplish all of this via hydraulics would be another mater entirely. You'd need one pump, 3 cylinders, 3 valves, lots of hoses, and of course a means of driving the hydraulic pump. Just looking at that alone, haven't you lost sight of your goal of not spending hundreds on this.
> 
> If you're going to attempt to do this, I would think you would almost have to go with the standard (teleflex or whatever brand) cables that are made for this purpose. Partially because of the length of cable required and because the cable must be able to push and pull, but mostly because the cost of the shift/throttle cables are not that much. Steering cables are a bit more expensive though. I haven't priced any stick steer units but I know you can pick up a single lever shift/throttle control for less than $30 if you watch ebay. So for around $70 you could have a pretty nice shift and throttle setup with new cables. Stick steer systems seem to run $260 ish on ebay and that doesn't include the $100 worth of hardware to connect the steering cable to the motor. So that would seem to be the place where a DIY approach might be able to save some $$$. But that's just my rambling on the subject so turn back to your regular channel now.




lol, exactly my point... but i believe i could use something like a manual choke pulloff for a car as the shift/throttle linkages, but i do believe i will have to get the teleflex of what not for the other, as i dont know of anything on a car (that i can buy at autozone) that would be strong enough to steer the motor, im guessing it takes roughly 30-40 lbs to steer, depending on what way your trying to go.. but i dont see any "poundage" ratings for any of the cables i look at.....


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## JMichael (Jan 9, 2013)

I've never worked at a parts store but I don't think I've ever seen a choke cable over about 6' long before and I would think you would need 12' or longer (depending on the size of your boat) for front controls. Do they make them that long?


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## bikeordie092 (Jan 9, 2013)

JMichael said:


> I've never worked at a parts store but I don't think I've ever seen a choke cable over about 6' long before and I would think you would need 12' or longer (depending on the size of your boat) for front controls. Do they make them that long?



actually, we sell them up to 15' and theyre decently cheap. i havent decided if i want the controls in the center of the boat or in the front, but there is a 12' for $14


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## thudpucker (Jan 9, 2013)

Come to think of it, I have a set of OMC cables I'd sell really cheap.
You can make any kind of Lever atatchment for the Stick end. These cables were shift and throttle.


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## tnriverluver (Jan 9, 2013)

Do a google search for "stick steering systems" and the systems will come up. I looked into this briefly for my flatbottom and the system was not very expensive for the steering. ($200-300). Throttle controls may be another issue however for that year engine.


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## Tusker (Jan 10, 2013)

I have a 68' 18 Evinrude. Those motors were designed to run with cable/pulley systems. The new hydraulics will work but do not allow for enough left/right travel. That hole in the middle of the front is for a T shaped bracket that allows the cables to be attached. The controls can be found on ebay for 50-100 bucks. Make sure you get the ones with complete cables and not cut out of the box. These links will be a great help. You may have to sign up to see the diagrams in the iboats thread. They pretty much show you everything you are asking. In the below diagram just submit a stick for the wheel.

https://forums.iboats.com/boat-restoration-building-hull-repair/easy-stick-steering-home-made-385598.html

https://www.duckworksmagazine.com/03/columns/max/04/part1.htm

https://www.duckworksmagazine.com/03/columns/max/05/part2.htm


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## bikeordie092 (Jan 10, 2013)

tnriverluver- yeah i did a search but id rather not spend that much... lol yeah i know im greedy... christmas and my 10 month old have pretty well drained the wallet....

thudpucker- how cheap we talkin? lol

tusker- yeah i saw those pulley systems, if i cant figure out a cheap way of doing the cable style ill probably do the pulley style, but i would think there would be less slack in the cable system... the pulley system i would think would wear more and end up with slack quicker


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## Tusker (Jan 10, 2013)

bikeordie092 said:


> tnriverluver- yeah i did a search but id rather not spend that much... lol yeah i know im greedy... christmas and my 10 month old have pretty well drained the wallet....
> 
> thudpucker- how cheap we talkin? lol
> 
> tusker- yeah i saw those pulley systems, if i cant figure out a cheap way of doing the cable style ill probably do the pulley style, but i would think there would be less slack in the cable system... the pulley system i would think would wear more and end up with slack quicker



The tension springs keep the cable tight. Yeah, the cable and set up should be inspected every year for general wear and safety. With the modern systems your boat just isn't going to make tight turns unless you make some type of custom adjustments.


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## bikeordie092 (Jan 10, 2013)

i have some pretty handy fab skills lol, i plan on drilling as few holes as possible, so i think im going to attempt the teleflex style first, if it doesnt work ill just use the pulley setup.


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## Tusker (Jan 10, 2013)

bikeordie092 said:


> i have some pretty handy fab skills lol, i plan on drilling as few holes as possible, so i think im going to attempt the teleflex style first, if it doesnt work ill just use the pulley setup.



Let me know if that teleflex works well. If so I might have to try it. I have a few buddies running it on newer outboards and they love it.


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## bikeordie092 (Jan 10, 2013)

well, i decided to draw up a couple pics of what i plan to do, if it comes true or not.. who knows lol.. anything u think i should look at differently?


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## thudpucker (Jan 11, 2013)

thudpucker- how cheap we talkin? lol[/quote said:


> WEll, your gonna spend time or money. Take your choice.
> Over time I came up eith everything for less than $5.
> I'll have to make the Plunger parts etc yet. I think I have the 2" pipe.
> I'd think the whole thing, home made could be done for less than $30.
> ...


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## bikeordie092 (Jan 11, 2013)

thudpucker said:


> WEll, your gonna spend time or money. Take your choice.
> Over time I came up eith everything for less than $5.
> I'll have to make the Plunger parts etc yet. I think I have the 2" pipe.
> I'd think the whole thing, home made could be done for less than $30.
> ...



lol i would much rather spend time than money, but that may just be me lol.. i think im going to get some teleflex off ebay for the steering, since i found it for around $20... i can fab the rest lol, im not too bad with a sharpie, welder, and a reciprocating saw lol


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## thudpucker (Jan 11, 2013)

That's great; $20. Cheaper than your time and maybe safer.

There are some Large Cables, and the people selling them can Swedge almost anything on the ends of the Cable. Use Pex Pipe for the Housing to make the cable slide easy.

Maybe you can market your project when you get it working well.


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## bikeordie092 (Jan 11, 2013)

Not so sure about marketing Lol since I will be using someone else's product, but I guess I could probably do some custom installations.....


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## thudpucker (Jan 11, 2013)

Put some photos or drawings up so the rest of us can see how you did it.
The Reason why the Commercial designs are so expensive: Two things. 
Product liability insurance. And Certified Engineers doing the designs.
Watch out you don't get caught up in a big lawsuit.


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## bikeordie092 (Jan 11, 2013)

i did put up some pics of some drawings on how i plan to do it, but i havent done it yet... i have to redo the floor that i had put in my boat, since i let it sit unsealed for about 6 months


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## thudpucker (Jan 11, 2013)

Yes, the one pic was easy to understand. The Steering lever.
However, in my mind I've never been able to deal with a 'Fore&Aft' for 'left&right' in my little pin head.

I had lot's of ideas, but just don't think I'd make that 'left&right' thing work.

A person could have a Pedal on the side of the boat with a toe strap for Push&Pull.

Show me how your going to make the Gear shift and throttle work.


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## Tusker (Jan 11, 2013)

I happened to come across this pic today while looking for something else. Looks like a simple way to connect to the old style outboards.


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## thudpucker (Jan 11, 2013)

Yes, the original pin came up from below and had a flip lok to keep in in the Bar.
There's a place on the frame for a Shift and Throttle cable to hook up. 
The Throttle connected at the inner end of the Tiller.
You can see the hole in the Shift lever where that cable hooked up.
Now all you need is an electric start!


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## bikeordie092 (Jan 11, 2013)

Tusker said:


> I happened to come across this pic today while looking for something else. Looks like a simple way to connect to the old style outboards.



yeah i think i may actually do it that way instead of the way i was going to, depends on how much travel the cable has..


thudpucker said:


> Yes, the original pin came up from below and had a flip lok to keep in in the Bar.
> There's a place on the frame for a Shift and Throttle cable to hook up.
> The Throttle connected at the inner end of the Tiller.
> You can see the hole in the Shift lever where that cable hooked up.
> Now all you need is an electric start!



i plan on hooking up a regular old choke cable to the throttle and shift linkages, with modified handles lol.. oh and i do have electric start!! :LOL2:


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## thudpucker (Jan 11, 2013)

You lucky Dog :LOL2: 

I'm getting older and want an Electric start for my 25 Hp Mariner.


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## bikeordie092 (Jan 12, 2013)

Lol well I said I have electric start, not that it works.... I actually have to buy a new starter for mine to work correctly. It will keep the motor spinning if I "help" it start spinning. I took the starter apart today actually and some of the copper wires inside it for the brushes had actually broken off and were in the bottom of the starter.. thankfully, the starter into too bad expensive. I found one on ebay brand new for like $66


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## JMichael (Jan 12, 2013)

If the strands of wire you're referring to are the ones that connect to the brushes, you probably aren't getting full amp to the brushes so the starter ends up being weak or no torque. You can get new brushes pretty cheap for most starter motors.


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## bikeordie092 (Jan 12, 2013)

from what i have been told, you cant rebuild prestolite starters... idk but it didnt look like all that stuff came apart on the inside. the guy i always go to for all my boat parts and what not said that the prestolite starters cant be rebuilt


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## JMichael (Jan 12, 2013)

bikeordie092 said:


> from what i have been told, you cant rebuild prestolite starters... idk but it didnt look like all that stuff came apart on the inside. the guy i always go to for all my boat parts and what not said that the prestolite starters cant be rebuilt


Might be true for some models but evidently not the case for all prestolite starters because a google search of perstolite starter brushes will give several different links to brush sets and then there is this. 
https://forums.iboats.com/johnson-evinrude-outboards/prestolite-brushes-91548.html

But if a new one is only $66 that might be the best way to go.


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## bikeordie092 (Jan 13, 2013)

i cant seem to find any kits to rebuild the one on my motor.. the number on the starter is MDO-4102. the sierra number is 18-5629, there are many different OMC numbers for it but the one im using is 378674... i would most definitely rebuild it if i could, lol i am all about saving money, even if i do have to wait for parts. BUT with that being said, i have no idea how old the starter is, so i may just order a new one.


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## JMichael (Jan 13, 2013)

Here is a brush kit. If you scroll down to list of starters it fits, it list your Sierra number 18-5629 as one of them. So assuming you have your numbers correct, I would think this is what you need. 
https://www.usautoelectric.com/store-products-BH38121001-Housing,-CE,-Brush-Holder--Brush-Kit-with-Terminal-Installed----38121001_1097553637.html

P.S. It also has your OMC number in the list.


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## bikeordie092 (Jan 13, 2013)

ok, maybe that is the difference.. the brushes on mine dont look anything like that... theres just 2 and the armature goes inside them. but also some of the copper wires on the armature are what are broken/missing and i would imagine thats what is "more" wrong than the brushes...


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## JMichael (Jan 13, 2013)

If you've got some of the contacts missing off of the commutator, you'll have to take that to a rebuild shop or buy new. Brushes won't fix that problem.


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## bikeordie092 (Jan 13, 2013)

JMichael said:


> If you've got some of the contacts missing off of the commutator, you'll have to take that to a rebuild shop or buy new. Brushes won't fix that problem.



would that make it weak? like it wont turn the motor over on its own but will keep it spinning if i pull it too


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## JMichael (Jan 13, 2013)

Yes. For each commutator contact or wires to a contact that are lost, that is one field/armature winding that is eliminated. It won't take many to weaken or even stop it from turning all together.


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## bikeordie092 (Jan 14, 2013)

well that makes sense... ill probably just buy a new one...


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