# Help please! 1962 Evinrude 5.5 Fisherman - UPDATE 4-28



## Sader762 (Apr 25, 2010)

I recently purchased a 14' Jon with Trailer and a 1962 5.5 Fisherman. Guy said it was working but stopped about 2 months ago when he was on the lake. Maybe true, maybe not. Motor looks to be in good shape though.

I ordered parts from Iboats to do a complete minor overhaul of the engine. New plugs, plug wires, carb rebuild kit, all electronics (points, condensor, and coil), new impeller, new fuel lines, new gas and oil, and new lower oil.

I cannot get it to even sputter. It looks like I have spark at the sparkplug and gas is going to the carb. I have tried all sorts of carb adjustments. I've switched the plug wires even though I know they are on correct. 

I'm at a loss. I can work on engines, I've done it before. But this little 5.5 horse thing is messing with my mind. I know this thing will work I just don't have a clue as to what I need to do next.

Please, for my sanity, help me out.......


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## flintcreek (Apr 25, 2010)

Well, sounds like you should have spark and fuel...do you know how much compression you have? You might try putting a little 25 to 1 gas and oil mix and spraying it into the carb and pulling it a few times. If it cranks check your fuel lines for kinks and pinches. I have found this before on a motor that I had just put all new fuel lines, points, plugs and wires on. Hope this helps...Flintcreek.


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## dyeguy1212 (Apr 25, 2010)

Have you tried starting fluid? Slightly different concept, but sometimes when my car takes a crap all it needs is a little priming with a highly combustible liquid..


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## crazymanme2 (Apr 26, 2010)

Don't use starting fluid in a 2 stroke. [-X I agree with a little gas oil mixture shot down the carb though.Starting fluild in a 2 stroke is a quick way to score a piston.


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## cajuncook1 (Apr 26, 2010)

crazymanme2 said:


> Don't use starting fluid in a 2 stroke. [-X I agree with a little gas oil mixture shot down the carb though.*Starting fluild in a 2 stroke is a quick way to score a piston.*




AMEN!!! [-o<


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## Sader762 (Apr 26, 2010)

Ok, an update.

Before I start I have ordered a Service Manual for it. It can't get here soon enough.

And all my repairs have been from following this guide: https://www.outboard-boat-motor-repai...0Procedure.htm

So today I picked up a spark plug tester and a Compression Gauge.

I tested for spark using the tester set to it's small engine setting. I do have what seems to be a good spark to me, it jumps a pretty considerably gap on the tester.

Both of the cylinders are testing around 50 on the compression gauge...good or not?

I put mixed fuel into the cylinders and I think I may have gotten it sputter...maybe. I don't really know what a 2 cylinder 2 cycle engine is supposed to sound like.

The flywheel key is in good shape.

The points are set around .020" give or take a few thousandths.

The plugs are gapped at .030"

I will try and introduce fuel mix into the throat body and see what that does.

I guess it could still be a timing issue although this engine is so simple I don't see how I could have it screwed up and still get good spark.

This one only has 1 fuel line and it does have a fuel pump but the fuel pump has no area for a vacuum on it, only an fuel input and an output lines. I guess I could take it off and see what's there and if anything looks bad.

At this point I want to be sure that all of the ignition stuff is accurate. I followed the directions at the above link and it everything seems to be good. But honestly all my mechanical confidence is shot at this point. So who knows...

Thank you to everyone for all of their help that has been offered. I'd love to get this old thing running again but my patience is all but gone.


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## crazymanme2 (Apr 26, 2010)

I don't mess with anything smaller than a 9.9 Evinrude but 50# of compression seems a little low to me.The fuel pump gets its vacuum from a port behind the fuel pump.Make sure you didn't cross your spark plug leads.


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## flintcreek (Apr 26, 2010)

First off like Crazymanme2 said check to make sure you did not cross the plug wires, hook them to the other plug and shoot a little fuel mix into the carb and give it a spin, hopefully this works, (I have made this mistake and it took me a while to figure it out) but if not I will try to help with a couple of your other questions. Ok...50 lbs. compression is on the low side, but if both cylinders are equal it will hopefully work. I had a 58 model 10 hp Johnson with 60 lbs compression that ran great for several years and was still running good when I sold the boat. The fire should jump about 1/4" to 3/8" on the tester. The 25 to 1 fuel mix in this motor requires a good hot spark. If the fire is jumping this gap and you are spraying the fuel mix into the carb it should run. One other question when you pull the pull rope and turn the motor over fairly fast, does it blow any air or fuel mix out the throat of the carb. If so you may have a reed valve problem. I will check back in tomorrow to see how you are doing.....Don't get discouraged keep thinking about the good times to come, good luck.

Flintcreek.


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## Sader762 (Apr 26, 2010)

Thanks flintcreek, hopefully I'll get a chance to play with it tomorrow.

I have swapped the plug wires around but I'll do it again to be sure. I have not sprayed directly into the carb yet. I got an extra spray bottle and I plan on trying this tomorrow, hopefully. The spark jumped at least 1/4" on the sparkplug tester that I bought and looked to be like a good spark to me. 

I'll play with it more tomorrow but I think I'm going to push this aside and move on to the trailer. Eventually I'd like to get it going because it really is a good looking motor.


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## HUSKERBOATER (Apr 27, 2010)

I have this same motor (1960 5.5 Evinrude) and am working on it. This is my first outboard motor. 

two questions for those that know more:

1. Where the sacrificial anode should be on the fin below the cavitation plate there is a metal plug. Does this perform the same function of reducing electrolysis? 

2. How do I take off the rubber cap (cone shaped) that covers the prop nut- I don't want to deform this little piece. 

sorry i cannot help you with starting your motor-


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## Sader762 (Apr 27, 2010)

Can't help with number 1 but 2 - carefully pry the cap of slowly and it will pop off.


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## Sader762 (Apr 28, 2010)

UPDATE!

Ok, so I let the cylinders sit with penetrating oil over night and then I remeasured the compression. Both cylinders are coming in at around 46 psi. From my research this may actually be too low for the cylinders to fire...does that seem correct?

Since this powerhead is running low compression what are my options? What would you guys do? I guess I can pull it apart and see if anything is sticking. Also the exhaust gasket is old and needs replacing, could this cause low compression?

I like the motor and the ease at which you can work on it but at this point I want to get something that will be dependable, which this motor probably would be with an overhaul. Too many decisions.

Just keep sinking money into it or go another route?


Thanks!


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## Sader762 (Apr 30, 2010)

Another update.

Thanks for the help!

I pulled all of the ignition parts today and replaced them. I set the points per the manual and used an electronic ohm meter and alligator clips to set them accurately. Then I tested the spark with a spark plug tester and the spark is a very good blue/white and jumps a 1/4"+ gap.

I retested the compression again and both cylinders are exactly at 47 PSI.

I thin tried to start the motor while spraying fuel/oil into the carb throat, still no joy.

I then decided to pull the head off. The pistons tops are dark and have carbon build up. The cylinder walls are very shiny and smooth. There was a small 1/8" section of the head gasket missing from between the 2 cylinder walls. I am guessing that compression is bleeding off into the other cylinder keeping the compression too low for the engine to fire. Does this make sense? Is it possible that low compression will keep the engine from running?

At this point what would you do? Replace the head gasket and what else? The piston rings (which set the std. or .020"), the thermostat, anything else?

I'd love to get this old girl running again. I figure for less than $200 I could actually come up with a pretty new motor. Anything else that I am missing? On a positive note, I finished rebuilding the boat trailer today!

Thanks for all the help!


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## ober51 (Apr 30, 2010)

If you like playing with it, keep it as your hobby and get another. If money is an issue, sell as is and buy another.

I get frustrated easily with that stuff and like to move on quickly, lol.


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## KMixson (Apr 30, 2010)

Are the spark plugs wet after trying to start it? If not, one thing you can do to some of these motors when they will not run is to spray some fuel/oil mix into the spark plug holes. It may flood it temporarily but if it fires after a few pulls it will tell you that you are not getting fuel from the carb to the cylinder. I have even had some motors keep running after getting a shot of fuel directly into the cylinder. They just needed to be run a little bit to clean out fuel passages and warm up the various parts of the motor.


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## cajuncook1 (Apr 30, 2010)

Sader762 said:


> Another update.
> 
> Thanks for the help!
> 
> ...




You can definitely change the head gasket( the gasket itself should not cost more than $20 bucks with shipping). Leaking headgasket can definitely cause low compression and non running condition. Please clean the mating surfaces well. 

Be sure to use a torque wrench to tighten the head bolts. You can go to autozone, napa or such and buy/borrow one with a refundable deposit. I think the torquing amount is about 60 to 80* inch pounds* (please check your manual)

Look at this link for torquing sequence...it is not the exact cylinder head diagram, but the concept is very similar. If have to remove the powerhead from the exhaust housing please replace the exhaust gasket connecting the powerhead to the exhausting housing at the base.

https://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=384198

You can do it!!!

cajuncook1


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## cajuncook1 (May 1, 2010)

Hey this link may help you out with exploded diagrams for your motor. Can't remember if I supplied this previously... If I did oh well.

https://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1962&hp=5.5 (has parts diagram for your year model motor)

cajuncook1


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## Sader762 (May 2, 2010)

I am back in town now, so I'll be working on this motor later this afternoon.


Thanks for that link Cajuncook, I don't know if you showed me it earlier in the week but it has been instrumental to working on the motor and looking for parts. My service manual should be here tomorrow so that will help a lot.

I have an inch pound torque wrench for my rifle gunsmith work that I do and I'll be sure to use it to set the head bolts to factory specs. Most people are used to dealing with a regular torque range (foot pounds) and don't know the difference. There most definitely is and these bolts were not all that tight to begin with and I noticed it right away when I took them out. I imagine that some of the bolts were under spec after years of service.

Thanks for posting that, I am sure someone will be looking at this thread in the future your information along with everyone else has been invaluable to me.


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## Pruitt1222 (May 5, 2010)

I am kinda new to outboard repair but I know a dirtbike or chainsaw(single piston, two stroke) wont run with under 90psi and if it does your lucky. As much money as you have already spent on the motor you should go on and get it running just for resale if nothing else. Does your compression gauge have a schraeder valve? Lots of the cheaper ones don't and tend to leak . Also you want the engine to be some what warm when you test, It maight take 15 pulls to get the rings up to temp to get a max reading. If compression is still down its time to pull the head off and figure out why. Odds are the rings are frozen and the clyinder is pitted from rust. As long as the pistons are clean and not mared up badly a rebuild is farliy cheap. Rings can be found for 20 bucks, gasket set and head gasket are going to set you back about 60 bucks. I dont have a ideal what bearings will run you I dont know what type it uses. I just had a engine bored and it cost 60 bucks for two clyinders, Some don't like running oversived rings and prefer to get larger pistons and thats up to you. And you never know a simple hone job and re-ring might take care fo it. I have had luck with oversized rings befor so I am gonna try another time. I am rebuilding a 1964 johnson 18hp engine right now and its a little different then one of my saws. Best of luck to ya.


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## Pruitt1222 (May 5, 2010)

Oh forgot to mention, You would most likely will need std. rings, Kinda sounds like the clyinders are in decent shape from previous posts. You will want to hone the clyinders first and have them checked for bore, out of round, and taper. Another thing to look for first off is aluminum transfer, If the rings were stuck the sloppy movementof the piston could have left some transfer on the wall. When the rings relese"if they have", this transfer could stop them from seating correctly. I wouldn't think this would be a problem with a out board but I know on saws it can be a issue around the ports. And thats all the single barrel has for now.


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## flintcreek (May 5, 2010)

Sader762,
Put on the new head gasket and if you had 47 lbs. with a blown head gasket leaking into the other cylinder, it is going to jump and you will have 100 lbs. or more. I believe it will be ready to go. I have seen it before where you can spin the flywheel with one finger and knew it had no compression and go over 100 lbs when a new head gasket was installed. Just check your mating surfaces to make sure they are flat with a good straight edge. If you have to on the head you could use some wet sandpaper and a piece of glass to polish it flat. I believe it is fixing to run...just make sure your water pump is pumping plenty of water...Flintcreek


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## Sader762 (May 6, 2010)

Thanks Flintcreek. I got my repair manual in and have been going thru that. It's now obvious that my compression was way too low. My parts get here on Friday, but it's Mother's day weekend so I wil hopefully have this thing ready to go by Monday. I'll post an update and let everyone know how things go.


BTW - to everyone reading this thread - get a official repair manual, good info in it.


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