# 14ft mirrocraft V-hull



## Buddychrist (Jul 10, 2012)

Hey guys I just traded today for a 1979 Mirrocraft 14ft V-hull with a 2004 Mercury pull start 25hp tiller outboard

The first thing on my project list is to clean it up and prep it for paint, get the measurements from a casting platform and floorboards which I am deciding to either get it done in carpet or roll on bed liner. Live wells, Coolers, Rod holders, Fishfinder, Gps Nav, Compass, Multiple batteries, Tackle cases, Flood lights, Spot lights, the list goes on and on!

I will be starting most of all on a frame to hold up my tarp, I used a lawn chair and a clothes basket to keep it up for now but tomorrow im going to be making a trip to home depot after i get my measurements made up to get it all in one trip, Wood, PVC, Cement, Battery holder, and a few LED lights from Radio shack because im going to make my own custom fish lighting. The fish lighting is a family secret as to how its made but In due time if I think I might share a secret or two.


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## Jim (Jul 11, 2012)

Nice looking boat!

Looking forward to the progress of your build!


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## fool4fish1226 (Jul 11, 2012)

Sounds like you got a plan and welcome fellow mirrocraft owner.

Whats the cement for, inquiring minds want to know.


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## Buddychrist (Jul 11, 2012)

Yep it's gonna be a nice build


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## Buddychrist (Jul 11, 2012)

fool4fish1226 said:


> Sounds like you got a plan and welcome fellow mirrocraft owner.
> 
> Whats the cement for, inquiring minds want to know.





Instead of using a metal anchor that's a pita if it gets stuck under a log you take a 1gal bucket and fill it with cement and put an eye bolt in it and let it dry

Volia unstick able anchor


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## Buddychrist (Jul 11, 2012)

I'll post a instructable when I go to make the anchor, it's simple and effective


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## moberg12 (Jul 11, 2012)

Welcome to Club Mirrocraft!! I'm looking forward to following your build!!


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## Buddychrist (Jul 12, 2012)

moberg12 said:


> Welcome to Club Mirrocraft!! I'm looking forward to following your build!!



Thanks buddy! I will be posting photos of the boat tomorrow from top to bottom.


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## bigwave (Jul 16, 2012)

Looks just like mine.....welcome.....post lots of pics.


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## Buddychrist (Jul 16, 2012)

I got the rear light working, hunted a buddy for a pos $10 used seat, the front light is just there for looks for now, gonna pin down two on the engine and I've gotta figure out this mercury friction plate so I can tighten it down on steering for higher speeds!

It's coming together slowly but its still a work in project! 

Also while I was in NC I found this little steal at K-Mart for $6 which isn't bad at all for a double din briefcase style Plano brand tackle system!


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## Andrew04 (Jul 17, 2012)

Looks like a great starting point!


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## Buddychrist (Jul 17, 2012)

Andrew04 said:


> Looks like a great starting point!



Thanks man! I've got along way to go but there's things that could have been avoided that the previous owner failed to mention...

The choke is jerry rigged and instead of replacing the broken rod they removed the turn choke and made it into a pull choke that works but you can't pull too hard or it will come out...

I fashioned a pin out of threaded bar and two locking nuts, and it works perfectly at a quarter of the cost for a new one!




I'll be posting tomorrow to show y'all how to make a un-stickable anchor out of a bleach bottle, clamp bolt for a trailer bunk, and a bag of cement.

I figured out today that the engine has a slide lock to hold it up during transport so I've gotta get online and find the threading size and then I can lift it for transport.

The trailer needs some TLC starting with a new set of lights and a new wiring harness. But that's simple considering I have $20 on my autozone card. So a few extra bucks and I'll have some functioning brake lights.

I'm going to be relocating the Gas tank and replacing the 3 gallon to a 7 gallon tank to the bow. I've got some scrap metal to build a bracket to hold the tank but for now I'll extend the lines for the 3gal and just set it up front.

I am also creating a filler tube that will allow me to fill the fixed tank from the top of the bow without getting into the boat to do so... And it might hold a little extra fuel.

I'll start the instructables on a few items tomorrow on here and as a post. If you have any questions feel free to ask!


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## Buddychrist (Jul 18, 2012)

Here's the answer to the concrete question.

It's a full instructable and pretty simple

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=274751#p274751


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## Buddychrist (Jul 18, 2012)

Ok guys I've gotta cut the transom, I was standing behind the boat looking at the engine and noticed the engine is sitting way off to the right. 

The reason being is the previous owner didn't cut a large enough section to put the motor in the middle and placed it to the right for turning clearance.

Is there anyone who has plans on how far to cut the transom out without compromising the transom stability?




As you can see something has to be done... It's like the previous owner had no idea how to build something correctly, he didn't even cap the top after he cut it....


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## moberg12 (Jul 18, 2012)

Buddychrist said:


> Ok guys I've gotta cut the transom, I was standing behind the boat looking at the engine and noticed the engine is sitting way off to the right.
> 
> The reason being is the previous owner didn't cut a large enough section to put the motor in the middle and placed it to the right for turning clearance.
> 
> ...



You can check out my build thread for some ideas on the transom, link is in my sig. The PO of my boat also did a horrendous job hacking the transom down for a short shaft motor. I also had to replace the transom board so I decided to make it much larger than the stock one. It extends down below the where the braces bolt through. I used a lot more bolts than the factory when I installed it and I applied steelflex to the back of the transom after it was installed to seal all the bolt holes. 

You can still order a new transom cap from Mirrocraft but I decided to make my own using aluminum drip edge. It even came in a gray color that almost matched my steelflex.


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## Buddychrist (Jul 18, 2012)

moberg12 said:


> Buddychrist said:
> 
> 
> > Ok guys I've gotta cut the transom, I was standing behind the boat looking at the engine and noticed the engine is sitting way off to the right.
> ...




I still hang out with my dad a lot even though I have my own family now but he is an HVAC tech at our local hospital and he said he can make a cap for it. The wood is solid so I'm going to keep it just gotta draw up how far I'm going to go out with it. 

It rained today so I had a good chance to finish filling it up with water to check for leaks. The pinhole leak that is in front of the rear seat isn't leaking out but I know around where it's at.




I don't know how many of you guys are older but they used to have this sealant called "Alcoa Aluminum Gutter Seal" and I was a retard and finished off my last tube on my carport...

I found a website that has some and I ordered it today. This stuff is the bomb when it comes to sealing up aluminum and it holds strong too!

https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Alcoa_Gutterseal_p/vts-138.htm


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## bigwave (Jul 19, 2012)

Hey buddy, I called mirrorcraft to see if they had a template of my hull for the transom cut out. For my boat they offered two different versions on the transom. 15" and 20". They sent me the 15" factory template for my hull. I did not use the template for my new transom, but I could have. I just found the centerpoint and made my own. It is not perfect by any means but I know It will work. Like moberg said, check out my build and you will see that I even recycled my seat to cover the transom inside and out. I will cap this with a nice finished hardwood when I complete my mod. I will have a crush rail the entire run of the boat port and starboard and the cap on the transom too. They can send you an email for the template pattern you need for your boat. Good luck......I wish I had a 16 like yours and moberg......


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## Buddychrist (Jul 19, 2012)

bigwave said:


> Hey buddy, I called mirrorcraft to see if they had a template of my hull for the transom cut out. For my boat they offered two different versions on the transom. 15" and 20". They sent me the 15" factory template for my hull. I did not use the template for my new transom, but I could have. I just found the centerpoint and made my own. It is not perfect by any means but I know It will work. Like moberg said, check out my build and you will see that I even recycled my seat to cover the transom inside and out. I will cap this with a nice finished hardwood when I complete my mod. I will have a crush rail the entire run of the boat port and starboard and the cap on the transom too. They can send you an email for the template pattern you need for your boat. Good luck......I wish I had a 16 like yours and moberg......



I'm gonna contact them today!

I've got the little 14' just like yours! I'm starting the front deck build today with some spare metal I've got laying around. It won't be finished until I get the wood but I can get the frame done today.


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## Buddychrist (Jul 20, 2012)

Alright guys I'll be posting photos probably tomorrow of it in the water. It's still got a small pinhole but some duct tape will work until I get the Alcoa aluminum gutter seal in the mail. 

Until the motor is centered I'm not attempting another high speed run. It's just not safe with it being off set that far. But i'm gonna puddle around, toss some weight in the front and see how it helps stability, check for any more leaks, and if it's all sealed up with some D tape for a few hours I'm gonna toss a few new rapala lures and see if I can get any bass to hit. 

I'll be sure to post plenty of photos, and I'm gonna be building a push pole sometime soon for guys like me without reverse! I'll keep y'all posted on how it went!


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## Buddychrist (Jul 20, 2012)

Well I didn't get to take it out today... After further review I noticed I really should put new brake lights on the trailer before its road worthy. Just so happens my buddy called me from autozone to remind me I still had $20 on my autozone account! SCORE!!!!!

$18 out the door with brand new brake lights and side reflectors!


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## Buddychrist (Jul 20, 2012)

I also got the Awesome rod holders from JonBoatFever!!!!

Thanks again man! Those things are perfect!!!




Now onto wiring the trailer and removing the previous owners crappy idea for brake light brackets... How can you own a towing business and work with cars all day and not know how to weld............ Idiots these days!


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## Buddychrist (Jul 20, 2012)

Previous owners poor excuse for a weld.




Removed the brackets with pliers since the welds didn't even get penetration at all. 




Hit it with a grinder to remove rust

That's all I can do today they're spraying for Mosquitos at dusk through the entire county


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## Buddychrist (Jul 21, 2012)

Preparing to cut the transom this weekend, the motor is down for a few days until I can get the broken bolt drilled and easy out slowly. The broken bolt is right where my problem from co-pilot is coming from. So once I fix that and get the transom cut I'm going out for another top speed run.


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## Buddychrist (Jul 22, 2012)

The co-pilot is in need of some serious tedious work because of the bolt being busted off at the head I have to take the time to drill and use an easy out...

Another thing the previous owner failed to mention but it's ok I know what I'm doing.






The other side came out easy with some Silikroil


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## bigwave (Jul 23, 2012)

Buddychrist said:


> Preparing to cut the transom this weekend, the motor is down for a few days until I can get the broken bolt drilled and easy out slowly. The broken bolt is right where my problem from co-pilot is coming from. So once I fix that and get the transom cut I'm going out for another top speed run.


Hey fool4fish gave me a good tip on what blade to use when you go to cut the transom. If you have not already cut it, I would go and buy a mason blade for your angle grinder....it cuts the aluminum like butter.


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## Buddychrist (Jul 23, 2012)

I've got a few of them sitting in the shop! Thanks for the tip man!


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## Buddychrist (Jul 23, 2012)

The Alcoa Aluminum Gutter Seal came in the mail today!!! I'll be posting before and after photos tomorrow on the hull's small pin holes.

Also a small tip if you do not want to fill your boat up with water and are ready to seal pinholes now you can wait until It gets dark and put a work light under the hull and look for little lights on the inside of the hull. Easier and less cleanup!!!

Here is the Alcoa Gutter seal!!!


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## Buddychrist (Jul 24, 2012)

Because of my lower back injury from firefighting I have an extremely hard time sleeping so I figured since its already 5:00 and I'm already up why don't I go check my hull for that pinhole leak since I can't get on the ground underneath the hull to check for it I have to use a little ingenuity.

So I grabbed my mighty light and a pen along with the old brake light wiring and went to work





I don't know if you can see the light on the bottom left of this picture but this is the infamous pinhole I have been unable to find, it too small for water to drip from on a water test but it is just big enough that when on plane it shoots a nice stream.




The tiny light spot on the photo is the pinhole

I was unable to find it using the water trick but using my work light it was extremely noticeable to the naked eye, photos don't do it justice as to how well this worked.

I'll be posting the Alcoa Aluminum Gutter Seal patch later today after the sun has warmed up the hull


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## walleyejustin (Jul 24, 2012)

Glad you found the hole, the light idea is pretty slick!


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## Buddychrist (Jul 24, 2012)

I patched it today with Alcoa aluminum gutter seal.


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## Buddychrist (Jul 24, 2012)

Tomorrow morning I will be working on tight weaving rope wrapping the handles on the sides of the seats, I will post a lot of photos of how to do it on here. Basically it gives you a comfortable grip that isn't just a piece of thin aluminum and it doesn't get hot in the sun.


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## Buddychrist (Jul 25, 2012)

Hey everyone today I started disassembling the outboard. I got the foot removed and the long bolts holding the transom mount are soaking for the night. Once I get the transom mount removed I will be taking it to my engineering buddy and he will remove the SS bolt with some high quality $80,000 equipment that I just don't have available for personal use.

While I am already in this far I am going to replace the impeller and a few bolts since im this deep

One thing I learned is to NEVER turn the shaft on the foot when it is removed. Once you do that you might as well go ahead and start calling a marine mechanic and opening up that wallet. Made that mistake with my 115 merc...


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## Buddychrist (Jul 26, 2012)

Still have another day or two to soak with WD-40

This stuff is crap compared to Silikroil but I don't have $30 for a new bottle and I just ran out so patience is key right now


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## moberg12 (Jul 26, 2012)

Mix yourself up a 50/50 mixture of ATF and acetone. In tests it even out performs kroil. Deep Creep sold at auto parts stores is also pretty decent, not quite as good as kroil but a heck of a lot better than WD-40!!


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## Buddychrist (Jul 26, 2012)

Thanks man I will give it a shot when I get back from the beach tomorrow, gonna be doing a little surf fishing if there isn't a huge crowd


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## Buddychrist (Jul 27, 2012)

Got the motor completely torn down from the bottom of the power head all the way to the foot!

The foot is in great shape and needs no mechanic work. So it's being left alone.

The co-pilot is now removed, the bolt was drilled on my drill press now just to order a few $8 parts and it will be good to go! The impeller looks good but it's gonna be swapped since I'm already in there!

Then as I was working on the engine i noticed a bar completely out of place and unknown to my knowledge this 25hp merc has reverse!!! Looks like I'll be doing a tiller to remote conversion after all!!!!

Got a guy coming to pick up my two 750 Kawasaki engines and a 92 Kawasaki 750 SS Xi hull for $200!!!! That will cover my parts replacement and add on the remote kit, now I just need to go cheap and do a remote stick steer until I can afford the center console and a hot foot after removing the center seat and installing a flat floor


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## Buddychrist (Jul 29, 2012)

Parts are on their way!


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## Buddychrist (Aug 2, 2012)

Working on a side project building a rocket wood burner out of a freon tank while I wait on the parts from boats.net to come in!

I'll post a few photos tomorrow on a new thread on How to make a rocket wood burner, my first one is gonna be small but the next one is going to be made out of 3/4" steel sitting in my shop.


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## bigwave (Aug 2, 2012)

What the heck is a rocket wood burner? You gonna mount it on your boat. :lol:


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## Buddychrist (Aug 2, 2012)

bigwave said:


> What the heck is a rocket wood burner? You gonna mount it on your boat. :lol:



it's a small stove for camping, portable and the reason they call it a rocket burner is that it's super efficient and only takes a handful of wood to boil water, cook eggs, etc...

This one is only a foot or so tall



I didn't get to start today, I need some more metal to get started


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## Buddychrist (Aug 2, 2012)

The parts from Boats.net just came in!!!

I'm like a kid in a candy store on christmas!!! Huge amount of parts ready to be installed!!!!







In a few days that motor will be completely finished and ready to go!

I got the impeller and the Co-Pilot parts replaced tonight!


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## Buddychrist (Aug 3, 2012)

6:20am
Can't sleep with my lower back pain
Time to install some parts!


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## Buddychrist (Aug 3, 2012)

I got the motor almost finished, it should be done tomorrow and then all I need to do is cut the transom and mount the motor.

I polished the bow lights I got for free in member karma and installed new #90 bulbs and I have to say that those suckers are bright!!!!

I'll be mounting those along with a small four wheeler battery and running a switch to the rear seat along with a small green bulb to let me know when they are on!

I'm thinking about building one of the poles on the transom around the outboard for lights, flood lights, etc

What do you guys think? And what are they called?????


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## bigwave (Aug 4, 2012)

This is just my opinion, I fish my flats boat mostly at night. If you plan on doing some gigging or bowfishing then I would recommend putting the lights forward. Most people mount the lights on the bow since you will be fishing from the bow, unless you plan on fishing in reverse. I almost never use any kind of light for fishing at night....on the flats your eyes will adjust to the darkness and believe it or not you can actually see the fish without lights. I cant tell you how many fish I have sight casted to in total darkness. Most of the fish on the flats are actually spooked by bright lights sneaking up on them. If you plan on polling from the stern it is a real pita if that bar is there for your lights....If you plan on doing it anyways then I would put a small polling platform on the stern so you have a place to pole from. On my boat I will have a casting deck that ends where the seat used to be.....almost 4' of deck to stand on and fish or poll from....If I need some quick lighting then I will just hit the water with my handheld q-beam.....Just my 2 cents though.


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## kfa4303 (Aug 4, 2012)

+1. I think bow mounted, downward facing gigging lights with a poling platform in the rear would be an ideal all around set up.


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## Buddychrist (Aug 5, 2012)

It's mainly to protect my outboard when I'm banging around trees not for lights specifically.

Also where do you guys mount your red and green nav lights!?

I can't manage to find the USCG regs for it


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## bigwave (Aug 6, 2012)

Buddychrist said:


> It's mainly to protect my outboard when I'm banging around trees not for lights specifically.
> 
> Also where do you guys mount your red and green nav lights!?
> 
> I can't manage to find the USCG regs for it


On the center of the bow if its a bi-color light. The regs say you must have a 2 mile visibility light with a 180 degree visibility. You can seperate them on each side of the bow if you want.....more wiring and really not necessary but it looks cool The green light is starboard, the red light is port. they also have side mount lights that you can recess in the hull itself....they are kinda expensive though. You need and all around light on the stern of the boat....you can mount this light on either side or on the top of you motor.....that looks dorky to me though. Here is what I am talking about.


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## Buddychrist (Aug 6, 2012)

I've got a stern light that's high enough, I tested the amp draw on the nav lights i got from member karma and it's too much for my battery.


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## bigwave (Aug 6, 2012)

Buddychrist said:


> I've got a stern light that's high enough, I tested the amp draw on the nav lights i got from member karma and it's too much for my battery.


A good group 27 battery should be fine for any nav lights on a john-boat....are you using a tiny battery? lawnmower, motorcycle?


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## Buddychrist (Aug 6, 2012)

The lights I got are #90 halogen and draw a lot of power. I can much easier buy some LED's than replace my power sports battery with a big one. LED's have real low power draw and can run all night on a much smaller battery. 

I'm trying to be cost affective on it since I'm broke. Except for hull mods, if i don't have it then i will wait until I do

Once again another Alcoa patch on a pinhole




When it dries it lays flat


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## Buddychrist (Aug 8, 2012)

There is an extremely illusive hole or leaking seam, gonna lift the whole boat this weekend and get it over with completely sealing and bunking any rivets which is easy considering I have a 100lb wife that can sit in the boat while I winch it up in the air and she can swing the hammer while I hold the metal plate!

God I love my wife


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## Buddychrist (Aug 9, 2012)

I told my wife I wanted to go bass fishing and she brought these home





I love my wife! 

Now I've gotta finish finding that stupid hole


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## Buddychrist (Aug 11, 2012)

I found the illusive pinhole!!!! It's under the right side transom brace, so I've gotta lift the boat off of the bunk boards and once again Alcoa shall be used!

Then I should have a completely dry ride the next time I go out!!!!


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## Buddychrist (Aug 11, 2012)

Now the hull is completely sealed up and ready to go fishing for sure! No more going to the dock early to drain water! It's time for an all day bass fishing trip with a few of my pro angler buddies from Gainesville!!!!


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## pauldanielm (Aug 14, 2012)

Cant wait for more pics of the modifications that you plan on doing. I have a 14ft Mirrocraft and am about to start some work on it as well.


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## Buddychrist (Aug 18, 2012)

Hey guys update:

I am looking into ordering a 14 gallon fixed racing fuel tank from summit and installing it in the bow!

Very similar to this but with a bottom fed pickup which would no longer require me to have a primer bulb because the fuel will be gravity primed!


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## Buddychrist (Aug 21, 2012)

Well I am waiting for the rain to stop so I can give it another test run. Pinholes are a pain to find!

But on another note I will be doing a casting deck, rear platform, and side seats all along the boat probably using carpet but I'm still not convinced. 

I just don't want to use Bedliner and be sitting in a microwave oven during Florida summers.


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## bigwave (Aug 21, 2012)

Hey that is one nice tank, but don't forget you will have to vent that tank to make it work right. I had major issues with my tank on my big boat...mud dobbers decided to plug the vent tube....took me forever to figure out why my boat was struggling to start and run properly.


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## Buddychrist (Aug 21, 2012)

They come with dual vents when you buy them! It's got plenty of room for fuel and the prices are good especially from jegs!

TBH I have thought about buying a low back racing seat for the tiller seat on my boat! They're like $25-30 and they will long outlast any overtons chair.

I know all about mud dobbers and boats that's for sure! I had them plug up my cooling tube on my 115, I almost lost an engine that day, luckily I had caught it only after a few minutes of running though...


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## Buddychrist (Aug 22, 2012)

Update:

I hunted my old firefighting gear and here is the crown jewels!



Let's see what a little 9v will kick out! I've got one red that is real subdued for a nice deck light and then two bright whites that will really light up the boat!


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## Buddychrist (Aug 23, 2012)

For some reason it's not letting me upload pictures on my tapatalk app...

Guess I'm gonna be trying tech support, working on deck designs now.

Just saw the update, hopefully it will be back up soon!


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## Buddychrist (Aug 24, 2012)




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## Buddychrist (Aug 25, 2012)

Quick question mirrocraft owners!

Is there any complications with removing the middle seat permanently? I just don't want to reduce the structural strength. Don't worry I will be adding extra foam to take up more than what will be removed in the process.


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## Buddychrist (Aug 25, 2012)

I have decided to make a flat deck from the rear seat all the way to the transom. 

Gotta figure out what plywood I am going to use and the carpet plus some spar urethane. But I've got some plans drawn up for the rear frame and it should turn out nicely!

Then it will be on to the front deck where I've decided to do a top deck not for standing but for electronics and storage.

Still tinkering with the idea of removing the middle seat and cutting the center out of it and welding sides on it. That would give me a nice walking area without having to hurdle over the seats.


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## bigwave (Aug 25, 2012)

I am sure you will have some opinions on removing the seat. I took all of mine out. Yes they were there for side support and flotation, but I feel that when all my decks are secure to the framing and the side rod lockers are installed I will have a stronger hull. Before I started my boat the middle seat was already removed, so I naturally put a flat deck in it. I never had any issues with flexing or cracked ribs. I think that if you make sure to re-secure the strong ties where the seats are you will be fine. Once you have your deck secure you will have many points to attach vertical bracing that you can hide with side lockers. I will only use what I need to frame all decks and lockers...for my side lockers I plan to use 1/4" for the side wall and tops to reduce weight.....all framing will be aluminum. My casting decks and main deck will be 1/2" with the vertical walls for the storage compartments also 1/2" held in place with strips of plywood so I have attachment points.....I am going for 15% waste from all the cuts.....so far I have 1 and a half sheet and I figure it will take the same to finish the main deck and rear top casting deck. I have already stood on the front casting deck with the vertical supports dry-fitted and it feels very solid. the original owner had the same set up on the front deck......it is perfect for the way I like to fish. My rear deck will be the same level as front deck so I can pole up to fish on shallow grass flats. I say you set it up to suit your needs....I really like not having to step over a center seat. I see it this way.....it is a jon-boat....if your plan does not work then tear it apart and try again. In the end you will have a boat the way you want it  I cant just rip into my 21 center console that would get expensive real quick......that is why I love my tinboat and all the cool people on this site....we all have our own idea's #-o


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## Buddychrist (Aug 25, 2012)

Yeah im never gonna rip into my 19' CC SeaPro

My wife would kill me! But I really wouldn't mind getting a tower put in, casting platforms, extra rod holders, new gps/Fishfinder.

But that's when I can find a job...


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## Buddychrist (Aug 25, 2012)

Ok I'm drawing up the floor plans, I'm gonna do the remote conversion and make it infront of the middle seat on a console. Probably from a bass boat since they have nice style and function.

Should I leave the floor around the console open or put a small divider in between the driver and passenger?

Also what side should I put the console on?


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## moberg12 (Aug 25, 2012)

Buddychrist said:


> Ok I'm drawing up the floor plans, I'm gonna do the remote conversion and make it infront of the middle seat on a console. Probably from a bass boat since they have nice style and function.
> 
> Should I leave the floor around the console open or put a small divider in between the driver and passenger?
> 
> Also what side should I put the console on?



Side console goes on the starboard side!!


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## Buddychrist (Sep 4, 2012)

Hey guys well I'm gonna be done with the boat for a pretty long time. I'm having a discography done on the 11th which is going to put me out of commission for a month and then I will be going to get everything ready for a discectomy and that's a year of physical therapy.

I don't want to sell the boat but I don't want to just let it sit in the yard either. We will see what happens when I get done with the discography...


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## bigwave (Sep 4, 2012)

Man I sure am sorry to hear about this, get yourself well....the boat can wait for your return. I hope all goes well with your back. Hopefully the pain will go away in your future.


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## pauldanielm (Sep 4, 2012)

I am sure sorry that you cannot finish your boat..... hope you recover fast.


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## Buddychrist (Sep 4, 2012)

Thanks guys, I'll still be trolling around the forum checking out builds though


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## River (Sep 4, 2012)

Yea, good luck and best wishes....River


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## walleyejustin (Sep 27, 2012)

wishing you a speedy recovery Buddy!


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## Gators5220 (Dec 6, 2012)

Hey man, how ya healing up? Hope all is well on the home front...pm me sometime if you need anything I'll try to find out anything I can for ya!


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## Buddychrist (Dec 7, 2012)

Gators5220 said:


> Hey man, how ya healing up? Hope all is well on the home front...pm me sometime if you need anything I'll try to find out anything I can for ya!



I'm healing up pretty good just trying to keep going, three weeks out of surgery and I've already busted a strap on my back brace. Yep I see myself going through quite a few of these things! I backed off the pain meds and got on same dose but stretched out from 4-6 hour to an 8-12 hour. Still on the same muscle relaxers though to keep my body relaxed and healing. 

Kinda getting fed up with wearing a bone growth stimulator 4 hours everyday but I'm learning to deal with it by just doing it all at once and being done with it.

Thanks man I think I'm good for now, when I'm healed up I do need a fishing buddy!!!


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## Gators5220 (Dec 8, 2012)

Whenever you wanna go let me know, would be happy to take you, that's good to hear your pullin back on meds I myself hate to take any medications (though I'm in no where near the pain you are). I don't know much about spinal injuries but those bone stimulators are pretty cool deals, hope it helps you out.


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## Buddychrist (Dec 8, 2012)

Thanks man, when I'm healed up I will load up the boat and give you a shout! 

Yeah the Bone Growth Stimulator is definitely a good deal, you don't really feel it but it is cutting my recovery in half so only 6.25 months to go and I will be ready to hook that illusive 16Lb lake Alto Bass!


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## Gators5220 (Dec 12, 2012)

Nice bud, well 6.25 months from now I might not still be in gainesville I have a good job offer in Tampa, but don't worry I will be back once a month atleast visiting and for gator games if u want to fish I will be by!


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## Buddychrist (Apr 26, 2013)

Hey everyone I'm sorry I haven't been on much I had the surgery in November and I'm still recovering.

Also the Mirrocraft is for sale =(

I want to keep it but I just can't handle the side to side motion of a Smaller boat. My 19' SeaPro is going to be my main fisher for the foreseeable future but don't worry I will own a tin one day again.

I got the carb fixed up I'm still missing one little piece to the choke setup but probably by the time I get it shipped someone else will own the boat. I posted it up for $2k or best offer so idk what I will end up getting for it.

Just got offered $400 for just the hull. 

Not bad


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