# Win A Longtail Mud Motor Kit



## mud-skipper (Sep 1, 2013)

If you have some experience at Kayaks and canoes, and are a little innovative, then I need your help.

I'm looking for a simple way of rigging a canoe with a homemade setup to house a 3hp Harborfreight Predator motor, mounted on a Mud-skipper 5-7hp Longtail Kit.

There are several things that need to be considered.

1. The engine will be mounted behind the rear seat, and the steering handle will come alongside the driver. 
2. I envisage the motor being set off to one side of the kayak. Perhaps even supported by a strut going to an outrigger?
3. The Recoil start cord will be hard to reach, if correct positioning isn't considered
4. The Outrigger Buoyancy tank could be a 4" Sch 40 pvc pipe.
5. The outrigger supports need to be easily detachable from the canoe, and fit many different styles.
6. The standard Longtail Transom Mount should be employed here.

The best idea will win the kit! Post your ideas, photos and drawing here please.


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## fool4fish1226 (Sep 1, 2013)

Now this sounds fun!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :beer:


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## wingsnhammers (Sep 15, 2013)

Just a couple of thoughts. 

About the recoil start: The very aft end of a canoe or kayak is not a nice place to be for a larger person. Especially when you are trying to yank on a rope. How about a set of weld on or bolt on "guides" added to the handle (think like on a fishing rod) and use those to route an extended recoil rope further forward. An extended choke actuator would be a very welcome idea, too.

About the handle: These smaller, self propelled watercraft can be quite narrow, making steering with a tiller sometimes difficult. Is there a way that the handle itself could be offset slightly? Even a very slight offset could make a big difference in maneuverability. Also, I doubt most folks would be standing up while operating such a rig. The handle would need to be kept low to facilitate a seated position. However, not so low that the longtail couldn't be lifted out of the water.

About the outrigger: I dunno if 4" PVC would handle the needed stability requirements. It would be really neat to see a pair of outriggers (one on each side) that were shaped like the hull of the craft, only miniaturized. These could be made from stitch and glue construction, fiberglass, or whatever. They would just need to be large enough to offer the extra stability and have positive floatation. 

About the outrigger struts: This would depend entirely on the craft. For a squareback canoe, It would be pretty cool to be able to tie the outrigger struts into the transom and another amidships. A craft with oarlocks could have a mount to take advantage of the oar receptacles to act as a strut anchor point. I wonder if it would be possible to even make another anchor point on the motor mount itself. 

Please take in mind that I am not trying to be a picky little butthead. I'm pretty much just thinking out loud. I do hope that some of these ideas are useful. I really wouldn't mind winning that kit. LOL! I may even do a drawing in the next day or so and try to put my ideas into visuals.


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## mud-skipper (Sep 15, 2013)

Wonderful stuff! Post pictures - drawings etc.


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## lovedr79 (Sep 17, 2013)

this is the first idea that popped into my head, i am sure you want more technical drawings but i am supposed to be working now. the pivots may need to be changed, a lllooonnggg pull cord added. i have always liked the mud motors, never had one or run one.


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## lovedr79 (Sep 18, 2013)

i got to thinking about this again last night, you would have to have a stabilizer on each side. then the next part that might be tricky would be finding the right balance point on where to make the transom. i believe that the transom would have to be installed on a per customer basis due to weight (forward/aft) to keep the balance right. then another thought was a keel of some sort to keep it from going all over the place. a canoe should'nt be too bad. as far as transom you could use angle aluminum with screw inserts fiberglassed to the bottom of the vessel and a piece of wood for the motor mount.


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## Butthead (Sep 29, 2013)

Below is my idea, but pardon any incorrect lingo.
On a kayak the motor would need to be set in a forward position. You could make it be able to pivot up and down to bring the propeller out of the water, as shown in part B. Push the whole handle forward and the motor tilts up. I imagine needing to use support floats on both sides, as shown in A and C. They would need to be height adjustable (C-2) and the mount would need to be wide, like an upside T, so the float wouldn't spin. 

Part A.
1. Handle rest
2. Starting cord pulley, to make it easier to start
3. Starting cord handle, pulls toward your chest or right side
4. Handle that controls throttle and rudder
5. Rudder, with 90 degree total range of motion as depicted by orange lines.

I envision the throttle handle would work like a motorcycle, twist for higher speed, but then also the handle would rotate from vertical to horizontal to change the position of the rudder. 
Part B, shaft rest could be integrated into the motor support bracket, so that the motor sits at an optimal angle. You could include shims (rubber?) to have additional bolts further back on the bracket, distribute the stress, and make it more universal. 


Alright, now in true designer fashion, everyone get to ripping apart my concept and tell me why it's wrong. :LOL2:


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## lovedr79 (Sep 29, 2013)

I like it, pretty close to my ideas. Much better drawings than mine


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## Kismet (Sep 29, 2013)

For tiller, OP with off-set tiller just is a pain in the tail on canoes. Consider rigging a joy-stick in front of stern seat. It'll take bit of space, but conceivably would negate the necessity of having the engine off to one side. 

Consider a "balcony" assemblage on stern of canoe, with some consideration of need for weight in front of craft. Centered motor eliminates a bunch of issues.

Have fun, be safe.


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## Butthead (Oct 1, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=330757#p330757 said:


> lovedr79 » Sun Sep 29, 2013 7:22 pm[/url]"]I like it, pretty close to my ideas. Much better drawings than mine



Is there a way you can make your picture bigger? I can't really see it.
Sorry if my drawing is a very close to yours, I promise I'm not trying to steal your idea. I enjoy the design aspect, but I can't say I'm motivated to win the motor as I would rarely be able to use it around here. I'll leave that to you.  

When you get down to it, it seems like there will be a lot of limitations on what you can do on a kayak setup. 
There won’t be a way to turn the propeller shaft from port to starboard without some type of gearing to make up for the lack or range of motion when in the kayak. Either that or some type of stick steer system. That's why I incorporated the rudder. Then, like you said, you'll have to use a long pull cord to start it. The issue gets to be that if you have too many controls around you, it will hinder your ability to fish. That's also why I used dual small supports in the rear, as they wouldn't get in your way. The idea for that was based off of the Freedom Hawk Kayak. I foresee the left handed versus right handed controls debate. I always feel more comfortable running a tiller with my left hand, but I'm sure there are plenty of people who'd rather use their right. The ability to easily get the propeller out of the water will also be challenging, depending on the weight of the setup. Also, the motor will probably need to be easily removable as it will weigh as much as some kayaks. Some kayaks also have rear storage which will make placement trickier.

I think a square back canoe could utilize a very straightforward design. The traditional style canoe would be a bit more problematic as the motor would have to either sit very high, to make the angle, and/or sit very far back where there is less buoyancy.


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## lovedr79 (Oct 1, 2013)

i tried to make it bigger, plus the drawing was lost on my cell phone that went swimming. wasnt trying to say that you stole my ideas. i think we hit the design on the head by coming up with two that are pretty close. my drawing only has one pontoon, but after much thought you definetley need two.i kinda want one now..........


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## lovedr79 (Oct 1, 2013)

i dont think there is a way to get around control cluttter, as the boat doesnt have much room to start with. i drew mine with left hand controls too for whatever reason thats the way it hit the paper. a ghenoe would be optimal for this setup kind of like the natives in south america.


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## lovedr79 (Oct 1, 2013)

well by gholly! i do still have the picture.


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## mud-skipper (Oct 3, 2013)

Don't forget that the object of this exercise is to utilize a mud-skipper longtail motor

See mud-skipper.com for details of the transom mount

We will also use the HF 2.5hp engine

Thanks


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## ajcsurf (Oct 4, 2013)

*Here's a 2.5hp predator longtail mounted on a Beavertail Final attack:*








Good luck with your contest!


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## lovedr79 (Oct 4, 2013)

Could use a piece of 1/4" aluminum plate on the top and bottom side of the deck and bolt the motorbase to that.


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## Haru (Oct 29, 2013)

]Ok I hope very one can under stand this 
You are going to make what will look like a ladder.

Step 1 : Cutting
Conduit      22'     X    1 "
Cut electric conduit        2 ea. 48"
                                               4 ea.  30"
                                               2 ea.  24"
PVC  pipe.     6" x   10'
Cut PVC pipe.                   2 ea.   36"

Cut Pool noodles.           6 ea.   36"

Step 2 : Out riggers 
Cut one end of each PVC pipe at a 45deg angle
Take 3 noddles force in one tube
Cut flush with ends
Seal ends with silicon

Step 3 : Ladder
Lay 2 longest conduit parallel 
take all 4 of the  36" conduits and make a mark 3" from each end. 
take one 36" piece and lay one 48" piece on top at a 90 deg. At the 3" mark 
Making sure that the longer one is not overhanging but even
Drill hole through the center of the tubes at mark and bolt together Make sure it square
Repeat at the other end of 36"
Then doing the same  at other end of  48"
Turn frame over lay PVC against the end lay another 36"  next to it snug and mark on 48" and aline with 3" marks drill and bolt together both ends
Wrap strapping around Pvc pipe and electric conduit at each end of ladder.At  2 places and bolt together 

Step 4:  transom  mount
Mark  center of both 24" and drill & bolt aluminum angle 2x2x12" to both make sure it square and end of angle is even with tube
Mark both ends of angle 4" from end and 1  1/2" from top
Take 2x6x24" lumber cut in half clamp both pieces to 2x2x12" angle making sure both ends are  even with angle and 6" is up right drill and bolt
Now transom mount can be off set as need for handle ( make sure enough room for handle to move left and right while seated)
Mark 48" frame where the 2 -24" will set. Set in place drill and bolt together 



Use 2 Ratchet tie downs to go around your boat to frame and tighten down where you want the motor to set.


If needed step 4 can be off set to ether side of the boat.
The frame  length  can be shorten for smaller boats.
If the outriggers needs to set closer to water add wood blocks on top of the outriggers where they meet the frame
Would also suggest taking another Ratchet and going around transom mount to inside lip of boat or seat
With outriggers, should be no problem to spin in your seat and choke and start motor

Tools :                                                              Material :
Drill.                                                                   Conduit.     3 EA.       1 " x  10 '
Tape measure.                                              PVC.             1.                6" x 6'
1/4" Drill bit.                                                 Angle.           1.                1/16x1  1/2 x 4'
Hacksaw.                                                       Ratchet       1.                Pack w/4 inside
Wenches.                                                         Conduit strap.              25' pack
Socket.                                                             Silicon.          1.                Tube
Caulking gun.                                                  Pres. Treated.             2x6x8'
                                                                           Noddles.        6.             Large
                                                                            Bolts             25.          1/4 x 2 1/2"
                                                                            Bolts.             2.             1/4 x 5"
                                                                            Lock nut.      27
                                                                            Washer.         27.
I have drawings but having trouble posting them


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## Haru (Oct 30, 2013)

Here is one


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## Haru (Oct 30, 2013)

#2


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## Haru (Oct 30, 2013)

Ok I see my tool list and material got mixed.
So you just have to read one line at a time.
You'll see that some material continued on the next line.


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## boarhog (Nov 11, 2013)

This is my design submission. It can be adjusted for different kayaks and the reach for starting should be easy to pull with a 2.5hp. The handle has a bend to make throttle adjustments and to raise the prop more comfortable. The entire frame is made from 1"x1" aluminum tubing to conserve weight. This system allows for paddling and fishing on both sides. This design works on kayaks and canoes. It also allows the operator to face forward. The motor mount can be moved on the frame from one side to the other and centered to adjust for operator comfort.


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## HOUSE (Nov 26, 2013)

I have been away from the site for quite some time as I have been kayak fishing a lot more than tinboat fishing  I have all sorts of ideas how to do this that I'll try and get on paper. My buddy and I have mounted trolling motors on our kayaks and were actually discussing our options to up the anti with a gas motor like this. 

Did you ever come up with your final plans?


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## lovedr79 (Dec 26, 2013)

here you go. not quite a kayak but

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kjk4cyYB8Yk


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## boarhog (Apr 14, 2014)

Did anyone win?


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## lovedr79 (Apr 14, 2014)

I have been wondering who won for a month or three.


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## rabbit (Apr 15, 2014)

These clamps are rated for 2hp only. Biggest problem is you're trying to spread 4hp over a fragile surface.
You could do it with 2 struts to the pontoons. Wrench tightened clamps perhaps for more grip. Redundancy so if a clamp comes loose you don't wind up in the drink.)
Gunnel clamps would also have to hold ABS pontoon and a longtail you're working. That's asking a lot. If you lashed the forward strut to a thwart it would be pretty strong. Four clamps on the rear strut.
Anyway this isn't a design. I'm just throwing it out there.


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## lovedr79 (Apr 16, 2014)

that is similar to the mount I made for my old canoe. I used two 2x4's and had wing nuts close to the gunwale. mad it into a clamp. worked great for the trolling motor on the canoe. a buddy ended up offering $100 for it. I gave it to him in the end for free. 

I don't think there is going to be a winner in this contest.


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## boarhog (Jul 14, 2014)

I was told last November that he would pick a winner "Probably Xmas but I might run it a bit longer to get a few more ideas".


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## Timtactical (Jul 14, 2014)

If you want detail drawings let me know, its kinda what I do.


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## Haru (Sep 16, 2014)

Ok 1 year and no winner? not cool [-X [-X or is this a 5 year 
Contest????????


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## Dark3 (Sep 16, 2014)

Lol yall got dooped. Just work up a bill and pm him with it. Jk, im sure hes coming back haha


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## lovedr79 (Sep 17, 2014)

yeah, pretty much. I have sent him a few PM's too.


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## SumDumGuy (Sep 17, 2014)

Joined:	13 Apr 2013, 05:57
Last visited:	16 Feb 2014, 09:23
Total posts:	35
[0.01% of all posts / 0.07 posts per day]


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## lovedr79 (Sep 17, 2014)

yup seen that a long time ago. we got shafted.


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## Dark3 (Sep 17, 2014)

Its so clever Haha


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## mud-skipper (Jan 16, 2017)

I've just got around to finalizing the results. Apologies for the delay, but what with Xmas etc. 

We finished the prototype a couple of weeks ago, and have produced a few kits. Here is a video of the kit being installed on a Ryobi Weed Whacker. I've also made adaptations for the Echo GT225 Weed whacker.

Here's the how to video.
https://youtu.be/_1tHhfJ9YOE

I didn't use any one person's ideas, but just general research and much trial and error. As I tweaked the design with a CAD program Autodesk 123D Design am ymy 3D Printer (I love these things)

So. The winner is HARU he'll get a 6hp Mud motor kit

I'm also giving two Kayak kits away, to Rabbit and Boarhog.

Thanks for your patience folks. Please pm me with your addresses.

After doing more work on this project over the months it's become obvious that the 3hp Harborfreight Predator motor, mounted on a 5-7hp Longtail Kit is somewhat overkill for a canoe. The weight factor alone is a problem making a canoe somewhat less stable. I must confess I was persuaded into this by seeing another company peddling a version of this. However, no one seems to have purchased one of their kits. The smaller weed whacker engines do a much better job, and are 1/4 of the weight. They also outperform the more commonly used electric trolling motors in range and weight. The Predator engine alone is 22lbs, mounted too high and upsets the center of gravity.

Over the next few weeks, you'll see Mud-skipper bring out a short shaft kit for a 35GX Honda/clone and a 'longtail' conversion kit for most weed whackers.


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## boarhog (Jan 19, 2017)

Cool! I'm sure I can use the kayak kit! Where can I see one at? I want to plan the install! Thanks Mudskipper! I hope there's a hat in the box.


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## Haru (Jan 20, 2017)

Thank you  just got back from a duck hunt that motor would have been a life saver. Well at least back and knees. MUD MUD MUD and more MUD knee deep and sometimes deeper. But next year I'll be Mud Skipping across it =D> =D>


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## Haru (Jan 27, 2017)

Just got my kit in. Did not expect to get a motor too :LOL2: :LOL2: MUD SKIPPER thank you =D> After duck season closes tomorrow I'll start putting it together. It's going on a final attack boat so I'll update how it turns out. The ducks better start getting scared now because next year I can get them where ever they try to hide. Again I would like to thank you. Yippee


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## boarhog (Feb 3, 2017)

I hope mine comes soon, I haven't heard anything since I provided my address a few weeks ago!


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## boarhog (Feb 12, 2017)

I guess since we waited 3 1/2 years to find out who won, waiting another few months to receive your prize isn't too much to ask? I just wish the sponsor of the contest would reply to my messages!


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## boarhog (Feb 17, 2017)

I received my package today! Now the search for a compatible weed trimmer is on! Thanks Mud skipper!


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## Darryle (Feb 18, 2017)

Buy a 52cc scooter motor and the Honda clutch cover, you will be set


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## mud-skipper (Feb 24, 2017)

Here's one idea posted on our Facebook page.

https://www.facebook.com/randallchandler.jones/videos/1250228595008329/


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