# Starter spring end



## Givey1982 (Oct 25, 2018)

I have a 76 crystler 6hp tiller steer pull start. I am rebuilding the starter recoil portion. I have a new spring that requires a brass end piece that goes around the end of the spring so it will not slip out of the retainer. My problem is getting the brass piece crimped enough that it does not slip off. 14 in the pic is the piece I am talking about.

Any ideas?

Thanks


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## Pappy (Oct 25, 2018)

To me that looks like a driver instead of a retainer. There should be a tang at the end of the rewind spring that engages that piece. Are you getting this information from a service manual? Would be a strange requirement to have to crimp a piece like that.


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## Givey1982 (Oct 25, 2018)

Pappy said:


> To me that looks like a driver instead of a retainer. There should be a tang at the end of the rewind spring that engages that piece. Are you getting this information from a service manual? Would be a strange requirement to have to crimp a piece like that.



the spring straightens out at the end and slips through the end piece(13) then the piece I am referring to crimps on I assume. If not it falls off and when you try to wind the spring it will pop back out of the end.


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## KMixson (Oct 26, 2018)

It looks to me that the tip of the spring would have to have some kind of notch or indentation in it to hold the retainer when it is crimped onto the end of the the spring. Does the spring have a notch or some kind of knurled surface on it?


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## Givey1982 (Oct 26, 2018)

KMixson said:


> It looks to me that the tip of the spring would have to have some kind of notch or indentation in it to hold the retainer when it is crimped onto the end of the the spring. Does the spring have a notch or some kind of knurled surface on it?



The end is smooth so the piece slides onto it.


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## Pappy (Oct 26, 2018)

Am really doubting there is a crimping process. Manufacturers would rarely go to this kind of system to do a simple install of a rewind spring. Start looking for a service manual for this engine and find out the real story. Money well spent if you are planning on keeping the engine. 
I understand the straght part at the end of the spring. That is what should lock the spring to start the rewind process. Also there should be a preload even when the rope is fully retracted. A manual will outline the correct rope length, number of winds and the process required to assemble these parts properly.


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## Shaugh (Oct 26, 2018)

Here is a link to the correct parts and diagrams. I agree that "crimping" that part does not seem right... You'll need a manual to tell you what else is involved in that assembly.

https://www.marineengine.com/parts/chrysler-outboard-parts/6-1976/60ha/starter

https://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=MERFA286970

Show us part number 17. is it made to hold the brass end on ?


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## Givey1982 (Oct 26, 2018)

Shaugh said:


> Here is a link to the correct parts and diagrams. I agree that "crimping" that part does not seem right... You'll need a manual to tell you what else is involved in that assembly.
> 
> https://www.marineengine.com/parts/chrysler-outboard-parts/6-1976/60ha/starter
> 
> ...



In this diagram part 15 goes on the end of the spring after it passes
Through part 14. It all goes down the center of part 16 and rest in part 17. Just below 17 is a straight piece that the end of part 14 straddles which keeps the spring from turning as long as it does not slip out which is why I feel part 15 must crimp on. It is a brass piece.

Thanks


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## Stumpalump (Oct 26, 2018)

It may look like it will slip out but once it's together the tension may hold it. Starters are weird and have so many different designs. If you need to bend a spring like when the end breaks off and you can't bend it without it breaking or springing back then you just heat it with a small propane torch. A lighter may get it hot enough but as alluded to by the experts here crimping is probably not needed. A dab of grease to hold parts together long enough to get them in place is what you do if parts are hard to position while putting them together. Good luck!


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## Pappy (Oct 27, 2018)

Okay - You seen determined to crimp it and not to get a manual and find out. Go for it!


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## Givey1982 (Oct 27, 2018)

Pappy said:


> Okay - You seen determined to crimp it and not to get a manual and find out. Go for it!




Why would you say that??

The service manual I have does not address this piece so I am having to track one down. 

I don’t know what caused your comment.


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## Pappy (Oct 27, 2018)

As in all open forums there are folks that, from what they write, you can get a sense they may know what they are talking about. Can they be wrong? Sure can but in most cases their experience and experiences can help guide those asking in the right direction. There are two of us so far that agree that a crimping procedure does not seem normal nor needed to do what would seem like a simple install of a rewind spring and new rope of the correct length........hence the comment. We are not here to argue with you. 
I know when I am in a forum on a motorcycle that I have purchased that I am not familiar with I will search profiles (based on comments) that seem knowledgeable and see what their backgrounds are in order to help me get where I need to be with whatever system I am working on. This way I know who to trust and who may just be throwing guesses out there. 
Again, purchase a manual and see what the correct procedure is! THAT is your correct answer. When or if you do then educate the rest of us if you so desire.


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## Shaugh (Oct 28, 2018)

It's an interesting question because I think Pappy and others instinctively know that a round brass fitting like that will not crimp onto a round spring wire with any degree of permanence. It will simply fall off.... I did some investigating...

Note the photos here:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Force-US-Marine-Chrysler-6-9-9-15-hp-Outboard-Recoil-Starter-Spring-FA286970/171227251546?epid=1444761095&hash=item27ddf0835a:g:z30AAOxyn9BRcQdk:rk:3f:1&frcectupt=true




Does the end of the spring have a flattened or notched surface ? If not it might be one that was broken and somebody repaired by bending down more of the round wire.

If not I'd suggest you create a notch or barb on the spring end, then crimp the brass over that. just crimping the brass over a round spring wire will insure it falls off after a very short time.

Heat it to remove the temper then tap it flat. Then file barbs that the brass can deform over.


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## Givey1982 (Oct 28, 2018)

Shaugh said:


> It's an interesting question because I think Pappy and others instinctively know that a round brass fitting like that will not crimp onto a round spring wire with any degree of permanence. It will simply fall off.... I did some investigating...
> 
> Note the photos here:
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Force-US-Marine-Chrysler-6-9-9-15-hp-Outboard-Recoil-Starter-Spring-FA286970/171227251546?epid=1444761095&hash=item27ddf0835a:g:z30AAOxyn9BRcQdk:rk:3f:1&frcectupt=true
> ...




That is it exactly. I cannot tell if the spring was broken at the end or not but the old brass piece was laying below it as if it had fallen off. I see now how it works. Thanks a lot for your help and the photo. That photo from eBay makes me wonder if it it supposed to come as a complete piece. I understand now the idea with the barb and will give that a try.


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