# Should I keep the keel rollers?



## pmshoemaker (Mar 11, 2018)

It's been almost a year, but I'm getting back to work on the boat I rescued from behind my dad's garage last year (hunting season is over). Turning my attention back to the trailer. I was educated on bunks vs. rollers last year, so I am going to lose the rollers on the sides and replace them with vinyl covered 2x6's. My question may seem like a dumb one, but do I keep the keel rollers (possibly replacing them with new ones) or do I put all of the weight on the 2 bunks? By the way, I have no idea why the picture is sideways


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## CedarRiverScooter (Mar 11, 2018)

I would remove the rear ones, leave the front ones to guide the boat on until it gets to the bow stop.


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## LDUBS (Mar 12, 2018)

This is just my opinion. I would set it up so that the only the forward most roller is supporting the bow stem. Also, I would make sure the bunks are firmly supporting the transom. If the rollers are in contact with keel and there is any bouncing at all, then all of the force is centered on those small areas long the keel. Kind of same reason you are replacing the side rollers with bunks. Again, just my opinion.


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## pmshoemaker (Mar 12, 2018)

thanks so much, guys!! Yes, the new bunks will extend just a hair past the transom, and I will remove all but that last roller at the front. Just to be clear, that will put all the weight on the 2 bunks and just the last roller at the front.

Pat


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## richg99 (Mar 12, 2018)

Good choice in removing the rollers, IMHO.

If you want to make the bunks more slippery, look at
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=40137&hilit=bunks

I added PVC gutter downspout pieces to my bunks. Cheap, fast, and it works.


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## LDUBS (Mar 13, 2018)

pmshoemaker said:


> thanks so much, guys!! Yes, the new bunks will extend just a hair past the transom, and I will remove all but that last roller at the front. Just to be clear, that will put all the weight on the 2 bunks and just the last roller at the front.
> 
> Pat



That is exactly how I am set up. My boat/motor is about 550 to 600 lbs.


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## nccatfisher (Mar 13, 2018)

Be careful with the bunks extending a hair past the transom. That is a good way to knock off transducer mounts depending on how you have them placed.


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## pmshoemaker (Mar 14, 2018)

Ricg99, I looked at your link (thank you, by the way) -- and it looks like your 2x4 bunks are flat -- the wide surface against the hull. I think most folks have suggested angling the bunks with the narrow side facing the hull (basically on end) -- do you have a strong opinion on one way or the other?

Thanks,
Pat


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## richg99 (Mar 14, 2018)

Well, over the years, I've had them both ways. 

Because most of the boats that I bought were used (new to me), I left the bunks pretty much the way they came. I assumed that the trailer was designed that way, so I left it that way.

The heavier the boat, the more likely that I would have them on end, if I had to start all over. Obviously, flat will bend more than upright. 

If I noticed any permanent bend in the ...flat...bunks, I would either switch to 2x6's or move the 2x4s to the upright position. 

I do remember switching one set up from uprights to flat. That was done because the trailer was set up so that the boat was SO high, that launching was an issue. Lower on the trailer makes for easier launching, IMHO.

Sorry I cannot give you a definitive answer. rich


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## pmshoemaker (Mar 26, 2018)

OK -- 2x4's and vinyl downspouts purchased. Next step, I assume I should paint the 2x4's before wrapping them with the vinyl -- After a lot of research, I bought just regular pine 2x4's instead of pressure treated ones -- I don't anything treated near my boat. I am thinking a coat or 2 of oil based primer, then latex house paint on the 2x4's before wrapping them and screwing the downspouts to them with s.s. screws. If/when my new braces arrive, I'll mount the 2x4's on end with the vinyl and have slippery-slidey bunks!


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## richg99 (Mar 26, 2018)

Suit yourself on finish coating the 2x4s. 

I may be wrong, but I don't finish them at all. Guess I believe that they will simply dry out after every dunking. A finish coat, once it gets penetrated, will hold moisture in and rot will start.

Or, I am just lazy and would rather just buy new ones every five years or so. I haven't had the PVC caps on any of them for five years yet. I've had unfinished, but carpet covered, bunks on boats for a lot longer than five years in the past.


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## pmshoemaker (Mar 26, 2018)

You make a lot of sense there, Mr. Richg!


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## eshaw (Mar 27, 2018)

Not trying to hijack the thread but I have a question. Aren't the roller trailers meant for a heavier fiberglass boat? I've read that they will cause "tin canning" on aluminum hulls is why I ask.


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## LDUBS (Mar 27, 2018)

eshaw said:


> Not trying to hijack the thread but I have a question. Aren't the roller trailers meant for a heavier fiberglass boat? I've read that they will cause "tin canning" on aluminum hulls is why I ask.



That is the conventional thinking for rollers and aluminum hulls. In this case, Shoemaker is actually replacing his roller bunks with bunk boards.


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## richg99 (Mar 27, 2018)

eshaw...you are dead on. The one spot that I've used a roller, in the past, is on the keel, assuming the particular boat has a keel. 

I've got a 1756 Lowe semi-V that would accommodate a keel roller. I have debated whether or not to add one. It would have to be positioned exactly at the correct height, as I still want to spread most of the load onto the bunks. 

My concern is, if I try to put the boat onto the trailer, and get it Katty-waumpous, ....off to one side or the other, would the keel roller prevent me from just pushing her over to the right spot. ????


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## eshaw (Mar 28, 2018)

Thanks for the reply fellas. When I got my trailer it was used and had rollers on it that I removed and replaced with bunks.


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## eshaw (Mar 28, 2018)

Thanks for the reply fellas. When I got my trailer it was used and had rollers on it that I removed and replaced with bunks. 

Rich, I removed the one from my trailer for that reason. The roller was round and wide but I didn't want it bearing down on the hull and pounding it going down the road whenever I'd happen to hit a bump. Probably wouldn't have hurt anything but I'll never know now! Also, if the roller failed the bracket holding the roller would be poking holes in the hull or scratching the crap out of it. The hull has a welded seam running down the center of the hull also, my second reason to ditch it.


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## JL8Jeff (Mar 28, 2018)

My Lowe 1652 trailer has rollers and I don't see any sign of tincanning and it's really easy to load/unload. That's how I bought the boat/trailer. But my boat also spends 7-8 months of the year in the water at the dock, so it's not sitting on the trailer every day. The keel roller helps protect the boat when you first start to load it on the trailer at certain water levels so it's useful. Our boat ramp is not pretty and at an odd angle with a decent dropoff when the river is low. When the river is at certain level, you can't back far enough in and the keel roller actually does it's job. This is on a mod v hull, on a true flat bottom the keel roller probably doesn't do anything but it still might be nice to have for protection or if somebody else needed to borrow the trailer.


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## jethro (Mar 28, 2018)

richg99 said:


> Suit yourself on finish coating the 2x4s.
> 
> I may be wrong, but I don't finish them at all. Guess I believe that they will simply dry out after every dunking. A finish coat, once it gets penetrated, will hold moisture in and rot will start.
> 
> Or, I am just lazy and would rather just buy new ones every five years or so. I haven't had the PVC caps on any of them for five years yet. I've had unfinished, but carpet covered, bunks on boats for a lot longer than five years in the past.



Yeah, I do the same. I just buy the top quality 2x4's which are like all of $3.70 for an 8 footer. Last really well.


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