# Wiring Diagram



## starzstuff (Dec 27, 2014)

Can anyone point me in the direction of a wiring diagram that they might have that could be used for the following setup. 

I have a 14ft Monarch

I want the trolling motor on the front. Small 30b Minn Kota
The engine is a 15hp Johnson at the back
I am going to have a small deep cycle battery at the front and a larger starting battery at the back. 
I was wondering if I should wire them too each other? 

Adding 
Lights
Fishfinder
bilge pump
Outlet to charge phone/go pro etc.


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## earl60446 (Dec 28, 2014)

Here is a good diagram, grabbed it off another post that I commented on. Thought he did a good job. Looks like what you need too.
Tim


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## starzstuff (Dec 30, 2014)

Thanks Tim. I was going to wire the two batteries together. No need?


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## JMichael (Dec 31, 2014)

earl60446 said:


> Here is a good diagram, grabbed it off another post that I commented on. Thought he did a good job. Looks like what you need too.
> Tim


There needs to be a couple of changes in the diagram. The 60 amp fuse by the trolling motor should be a circuit breaker instead of a fuse, and the fuse between the switch and panel should be eliminated. That's a bit of overkill to fuse a fuse panel IMO.


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## earl60446 (Dec 31, 2014)

starzstuff said:


> Thanks Tim. I was going to wire the two batteries together. No need?



Do not wire them together. Actually you may not need 2 batteries, 1 should suffice unless your "lights" are big current drain devices. Navigation lights (especially led) do not draw much current. 2 batteries may provide some "peace of mind" though. Cut down on fishfinder interference too. Depleting a trolling motor battery would cause issues with the other devices.

Tim


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## fishinorhuntin (Dec 31, 2014)

I am a fairly new member to the board, but I have been viewing the board since I purchased my Jon Boat 8 months ago. The following pictures (if I attach them correctly) are my plans for my boat when I get around to doing it! Feel free to use any and all of it!

I have worked in electronics for 25+ years, but if anyone has any suggestions you won't hurt my feelings. I did use the picture that was posted in this thread as an initial guide and made changes as I viewed what I wanted. I will be making my own fuse panel (hence the led's to show blown fuses, not needed, just a nicety) and my own control panel. I will place a small panel in the bow for the extra TM plug and +12v accessory plug, but the stern panel will have everything else. I do not have an outboard yet, so it will only be an all electric boat right now. Where I fish in Suffolk, VA, it is enough, but plan on buying one when I get the cash to do so (9.9 or smaller). There are also electric only lakes north of me that I have heard are good to fish. I have been thinking about adding a small bait live well, maybe a one or two gallon, for minnows, but I might just stick with my battery operated bubbler and minnow bucket right now. It works just fine.

In the following pitcure you can see the 2 TM plugs. This is so I can move my trolling motor from back to front, but until I get an outboard it will stay in the back. I have a switch to keep from both being used at the same time. I could actually put another 60 amp breaker in but I will never use both TM's at the same time anyway. The 60 amp breaker is because I have a 55lb thrust motor.



This photo shows the fuse panel and the stern control panel. I have actually thought about adding a couple small alarm panel batteries for all of the accessories, since they are light and last a long time with the small current draw. The lights will probably not be used but a couple of times a year. Most places I fish you can only fish sunrise to sunset, so lights are not needed, but there are places I would like to go that I can fish at night. Probably won't try those until I get an outboard. The DPDT switch is there to have only the stern (anchor) light on when you are anchored and the bow and stern on when you are moving.



On yours you could remove the SPDT switch and the stern TM plug. You also don't need a 60 amp breaker, 30 amp is porbably all you need. As in the picture below.


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## starzstuff (Jan 2, 2015)

Thanks guys for your help. I hope this post can stand as guide to future boaters

I am going to use LED lights so no drain there. After reading that the trolling motor will cause noise I'll keep that on its own circuit.


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