# 1986 SmokerCraft 14 Big Fisherman Rebuild



## Jeff Johnson (Oct 11, 2016)

Howdy everyone. I am getting ready to redo my 1986 Smoker Craft Big Fisherman with a Johnson 28HP SPL, I purchased back in late July. I rode around a lot with it to get a feel of what I wanted to do with it. The boat trailer and motor all came as a package new. I have 4 specific questions. I want to do a center console and move it back from where the original console was, around 4 feet. In one picture I have a quick mock up of where I want the console.1)Would there be any handling problems with moving the console back? Seems to me wouldn't be any different than a tiller controlled boat. I want the boat to have its weight all in the center as much as I can. 2)Also what does everyone use to patch holes in these boats? Where I took the original storage and seats out they used carriage bolts through the hull. I had to cut them off as they were spinning. 3) After taking the seats/storage out, the sides seems kinda flimsy. Is there a way to support these back up and leave the open floor as well? 4) How are boat widths measured on these V hulls? Widest part at the top or bottom? This site is a cool site and I hope to be posting more pictures and asking more questions later.


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## DaleH (Oct 11, 2016)

*HOLES* - Most of us put back in properly bucked solid rivets ... done once, done right.

*STRUCTURAL *- See this post here: https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=40289 for info and pictures. I had cautioned about boats where the middle seat is removed and if hitting waves, the stresses are sent down the sides of the hull where the hull is essentially trying to collapse on itself. _If you're always on a pond you may not need to heed this ... _

Someone else posted pictures of braces they were adding. So it appears in tin boats that the methods used are:


* Full-width seats (you don't want), 

* Half-size compartments up the sides (think Lund Alaskan layout or other hulls with rod storage down the side that mates the floor to the hull topside (side)

* Adding floor or braces for additional support when no seat or compartment is used.

I've only done the 1st two, so can't comment on braces. But hopefully others here can help you!

*Welcome aboard!*


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## Jeff Johnson (Oct 11, 2016)

The trailer gets the garage for a while.I want to redo it also.
Someone brush painted it and the boat and they both look pretty rough. Got the floor all tore out and ready to start stripping the paint. I had 5, 30 gallon trash can full of wood and foam. I weighed each can and what I threw away weighed 230 pounds. It was soaking wet.


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## Jeff Johnson (Dec 5, 2016)

Got the trailer done about a month ago and have been working slowly on stripping the boat. Done with tho outside. Now working on the inside. Then I am gonna check for leaks and flip it over and start painting. Taking a poll on flat Olive green or shiny dark blue :? . I did discover a stripping technique that may help some, may not. I bought a gallon of stripper from Walmart, applied it with a brush, let it sit for 15 minutes, then took a stiff scrubbing brush and elbow grease, and the paint came right off. Then I washed it with a hose. Wish I had tried this before I bout 5 cans of Aircraft stripper. :roll:


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## misunderstood (Dec 6, 2016)

Looking good so far =D>


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## Jeff Johnson (Dec 22, 2016)

I have some questions for all the re builders. 1.) Would it be a good idea to paint under neath the floor inside the boat, and has anyone used the truck bed liner stuff? Or what would be best to use there? 2.) On the floor I am going to use 1/2 inch regular plywood. Should I seal the wood with something before I install it? I have almost finished stripping the inside of the boat, outside is done. I am going to fix all the leaks then primer and paint soon. Still undecided on flat army green or shiny blue....?????


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## derekdiruz (Dec 23, 2016)

In my boat, I'd paint gluv it on the seams where rivets are. Just another small step to help piece of mind. I have contemplated and thought about truck bed liner in mine below the floor.. I think in the future I'll use raptor liner. I've used this on many vehicles with lasting success, and under the floor of a boat it would be in much less of a harsh environment so it should hold up well. Personally I want it to add to the rigidity (if it does at all) to the hull. Further, I feel like it will help with some noise... but honestly, I'm probably using it just to use up what I have laying around my house.

For the sealant of the wood, especially if it's your floor I think it needs sealed. Spar urethane worked well with me, but takes forever to dry for additional coats. Also it's hard to work with because it doesn't set fast. It's much like a viscous paint. For any future uses of wood I intend to fiberglass it. Quickly sets so I can get a lot done in a day versus paint and wait.. also, it's cheap, I'm familiar with it, and when it needs replaced I'll dread it a little less. Lol. 

Good luck!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## Johnny (Dec 23, 2016)

Jeff - in my world - I would definately paint the underside of the floor boards.
also, the tops as well - even if you are going to paint it, carpet it, or vinyl it - seal it.
Plywood is the most porous product that we use and it will suck up moisture
even when you can't see it or feel it......... inviting deterioration, warping, cupping and curling.
to get the deep first coat, thin the coating (either varnish or oil based primer) 50%
with the appropriate thinner. Let dry 48 hours, then apply a few more unthinned coats,
following the directions on the product you use.
Use regular exterior grade pine BCX or CDX. Using marine grade plywood is not
necessary as long as you treat the pine product well. (even marine grade wood must be sealed).
*One formula that has been kicking around lately is:
one part Boiled Linseed Oil
one part oil based varnish (or paint).
two parts miner spirits.*
saturate the entire surface and edges. After 5 minutes, remove any puddles and
let sit for 48 hours...... this will be your initial sealer _only._
the top coats will be your actual waterproofing layers.
you should treat a new transom board the same way.
This procedure will make your wood last probably longer than you keep the boat.

even though many members here use the Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane, 
(probably because it is the only item available at their favorite Big Box Store) 
I am not a fan of it simply because it contains urethane resins which is not an exterior product.
I use either 100% Spar Varnish or a good quality oil based primer and top coat paints.

and yes, this is a time consuming project !!!! but, as DaleH often says: do it once, do it right - and forget it.

Read, Understand and Follow all directions on the products you may use.
Use adequate ventilation if this is performed inside a garage or workshop.
Air dry all oil soaked rags outside before disposing them.
Avoid painting _anything_ if the ambient temperature is below 60* (or expected within the next 12 hours).

oh - if you use the "search" feature here for any issues you may encounter,
you will find many valuable threads on members projects that have already done it.

and WELCOME ABOARD !!!


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## Jeff Johnson (Dec 28, 2016)

Finished stripping all the paint inside and out.Put it in the garage and flipped it over after I filled it with water to check for leaks. So I have a question. I think these were caused by someone using screws or nails on a previous repair and they were metal and laid in the floor inside and caused the metal to rust. I didn't get any pictures of the inside rust pockets but you can tell it was a screw or nail. I even found a piece that looked like part of a metal rivet. What is the best way to repair these leaks? JB Weld is what I have seen most people use. I have heard some guys drilling holes and putting open end rivets back in with 5200. I think the JB would work best with all the little holes. Whats everyone's opinion?


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## Jeff Johnson (Jan 26, 2017)

Got it off the trailer and flipped it over, repaired holes with solid aluminum rivets and JB Weld. They were easy, but I was scared at first because I have never done any. Think from now on I will never use anything but solid if I can get to the back to hold the dolly. Then masked ,1 coat of etching primer , and 3 coats primer, sanded with 400 grit then 1500, and 5 coats paint. Just because I like to paint. I didn't get any pictures of it with primer. Been a long road so far . Cant wait to get this back on the trailer and start working on the inside.


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## water bouy (Jan 26, 2017)

Looks great. Have you considered a tiller motor.


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## Jeff Johnson (Jan 26, 2017)

water bouy said:


> Looks great. Have you considered a tiller motor.


 Yes but I think I am gonna go back with a wheel. I want to be able to stand and drive because I plan on going through water with lots of debris, like creeks. I know tiller would save a lot of room, but there will probably never be me or 2 grand kids or maybe 1 adult.


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## water bouy (Jan 27, 2017)

I hear ya. Mine is also a 14 ft vee and I can't see much unless it's bobbing. The guys on those shows about Alaska seem to use a lot of tiller handle extensions so they can stand up but their boats are pretty big.


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## Jeff Johnson (Feb 8, 2017)

Done with the paint, styro-foam in the floor and now mocking up the plywood. Slow going cause I dont know what I am doing !


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## Jeff Johnson (Feb 8, 2017)

Here are some more pics.


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## mrdrh99 (Feb 9, 2017)

Looks great... What size/type ply are you using?


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## Jeff Johnson (Feb 9, 2017)

I am using 1/2" on the lower floor. The Styrofoam I placed under it provides a stable floor. When I get it all secured down I bet it will really be sturdy. On the casting deck up front I will probably use 3/4 because it will have floor trusses of aluminum angle. That will be my main storage under there. My rod lockers down the side are going to be 6"6" long, so that will hold pretty much any rod I use. I will probably just have a cooler in front of the console. I thought about permanently placing a live well there, but I think I would rather have a cooler I can take in or out.


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## water bouy (Feb 10, 2017)

Looks good. I bought a bunch of these for flotation whenever I get around to doing mine.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Aqua-Cell-Lime-Mega-Drifter-4-5-in-x-47-in-Noodle-Pool-Toy-NT243L/204052872


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## Jeff Johnson (Mar 3, 2017)

Getting closer.


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## Johnny (Mar 3, 2017)

Hey Jeff - good work on your boat.




are you a sign maker ? couldn't help but notice the dimensional signs
on the wall...... I have been a sign maker since 1970 (retired now).
I have a few artisan friends up in the Hollers of Utica, Kentucky.
Letterheads contributing member and instructor since 1999.





.


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## water bouy (Mar 3, 2017)

Very nice.


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## Jeff Johnson (Mar 4, 2017)

Johnny said:


> Hey Jeff - good work on your boat.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yeah I do 3D signs, but mostly I cut substrates for local sign companies. I am the only person in my area with a CNC router table. Sign companies here haven't caught on yet...lol ! Don Hulsey from Utica , yeah I know him slightly. I knew he was a "Wall Dog". That hand lettering stuff is awesome and takes a lot of talent. Not to many people do it any more. Don and a guy named Bill Whimp are the only ones in this area that do that type of work. Probably be a lost art one day. I have bought lots of fonts from LetterheadsFonts.com. Cool stuff on that site.


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## sonny.barile (Mar 6, 2017)

Thats a nice blue. The boat looks awesome. Your doing some nice work.


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## Jeff Johnson (Mar 8, 2017)

sonny.barile said:


> Thats a nice blue. The boat looks awesome. Your doing some nice work.


Thanks.


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## Jeff Johnson (Mar 22, 2017)

Well its at the Graphic shop getting some decals. Getting closer to the water.


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## SuDZ (Mar 23, 2017)

Looks incredible.


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## chrispbrown27 (Mar 23, 2017)

I know I am late to the party, but something to consider for the future. Tiller steer is fast to respond and you can make tighter turns. If you are in tight cover or have floating logs that tiller makes it easier to avoid things that pop out of no where. My flat bottom doesn't sit up as high as your deep v but at slower speeds the front still blocks my view. I use a trolling motor extension handle on my outboard. I can stand at the middle seat and have a good view. I usually brace my leg against the middle seat section for stability but you could always put some sort of grab bar if you wanted. Steering is fine for open water, but if you get into smaller creeks and such very often it might be more of a hindrance. Just my two cents.
Nice boat by the way. I grew up with flat bottom jon boats and never did care for deep v's. The older I get the more I respect the design especially if you get into rough water. If I ever start looking for my dream boat an 18 foot Lund would definitely be at the top of the list.


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## Jeff Johnson (Mar 23, 2017)

Yeah Tiller steer takes less floor room too. On this boat I go out with my grand kids a lot and I let them drive and putt around kinda teaching them, they are all under 9 years old. I just cruise a lot too looking for Indian rocks, so I am more comfortable with a wheel. Thanks


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## Jeff Johnson (Mar 25, 2017)

Windy day to try out the rebuild. Had trouble getting it back on the trailer without guidepost. Got to get those back on and finish up some stuff on the deck. Everything went great. Handles about the same. Didn't check speed, gonna wait for a calmer day, but seems to be about the same as before. Planes out fast. About an hour on the river putting around and no water in the bilge!!. Is that normal ??? :roll:


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