# 18hp 1962 Evinrude Fastwin question



## adam_mac84 (Jan 9, 2019)

Picked up a $75 Fastwin electric start (condition unknown at time of purchase). She ran in a barrel, and went forward/reverse. so now I am willing to dig into some tune up. (Actually got the 2 pictured below from the back of a barn for $150 total)

Found this unconnected wire? Of any consequence? Comes from timing plate area. 










Next step is tackling the carb rebuild once I stare at everything a little linger to remember where it all goes and try to get the bugger out. 


Here is the 18 and 5.5 after a hose down









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Pappy (Jan 9, 2019)

Wire should be there to serve as a shut off for the ignition. Can be connected to a push button kill switch or something dash mounted. Other side of the switch should go to ground. 
Make sure you do the entire job and do it correctly on the engine. 
Use OEM parts. Why? They fit! Sierra carb kits are incomplete. Sierra points do not line up. Sierra coils often will not mount at all and when they do the center pickup shoe is too far from the flywheel magnets to produce spark. 
Same with water pump. Do not bring this engine back into service without doing the water pump. Use OEM components here as well. 
Spark plugs should be Champions. The engine was designed using these and they do a very good job in them. 
Engine can be run on a 50:1 mixture but for longevity I would run a heavier mixture.


----------



## satx78247 (Jan 9, 2019)

adam_mac84,

Fwiw, electric-start 18HP OBs (at least here in South TX) are "scarcer than hen's teeth" & 200-300 each (in repairable shape) is about what they will bring to power the larger tin John-boats.

Also, I have NEVER had any difficulty with SIERRA PARTS from our local NAPA Auto parts house. = About half the price of the "name brand" parts & work FINE.
(I only own about a dozen "Big Twins", mostly SEA KINGs, from 15-40HP, so I know at least a little about buying, "fixing-up" & running CHEAP outboards built by Brooklure, Evinrude, Gale, Johnson & Sea King.)

ADDENDA: For the 1962 year model OMC outboards, the gas to oil mix is 24-1. - I just checked my notes to be sure.

Note: Should you find a GREEN Brooklure of 20HP or more, "grab it with both hands & hang on", is my advice.
Money wouldn't buy my formerly "one-owner", "very low hours", electric start Brooklure 2500 (Model 3327) Big Twin, that I bought for 50 bucks at the end of an Austin estate sale in 2016.

Also, in the event that you don't have a copy (I wore-out my first copy & bought another copy.), buy a copy of CHEAP OUTBOARDS: The Beginner's Guide to Making an Old Motor Run Forever by Max Wawrzyniak III & READ IT "cover to cover" before picking up a screwdriver/wrench.
(I paid 5 bucks for my 1st copy at Salvation Army's local store & paid 8 bucks at Goodwill for the "new" one. - You may also want to check-out Amazon.com or ebay.com for a CHEAP copy.)

Note: As our area's "friendly neighborhood cheapskate", I'll keep running my "garage sale outboards" for as long as I'm able to "get out there" to fish/"boat-ride" with my beloved Darla.

just my OPINIONS, tex


----------



## Shaugh (Jan 10, 2019)

That off center button on the front that's above the needle adjustments is the kill switch. It's supposed to be wired to that plug.





I'd agree with Pappy, for the small dollars involved, go with OEM parts where you can. Is the powerhead painted green ? Hard to tell for sure in phone photos... but if it is then the motor has been rebuilt at least once with an older (Pre 56) Johnson powerhead.


----------



## Pappy (Jan 10, 2019)

Correction to my statement about 50:1. That engine should be run on 24:1 as was mentioned earlier. For some reason I had a later year model in my head! 50:1 engines did not appear until 1964. 
Shaugh mentioned the green powerhead. Very true, 1955 and earlier powerheads were painted this color and in that model year there was no 18hp. The 15hp did not appear until 1956 and the 18hp did not appear until 1957. Neither one of those had the green color. Does the powerhead appear to have been re-painted to that color?
Give me the model numbers listed on the tags on the port transom brackets. Let's see what these engines actually are. We may be able to make more sense of the green powerhead then.


----------



## satx78247 (Jan 10, 2019)

Pappy,

My GUESS is that somebody repaired the Evinrude OB by changing a out the powerhead for an earlier year model JOHNSON unit.
(Perhaps the original power-head was RUINED by NOT using the proper gas/oil mixture??)

yours, tex


----------



## adam_mac84 (Jan 14, 2019)

Shaugh said:


> That off center button on the front that's above the needle adjustments is the kill switch. It's supposed to be wired to that plug.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



That button is wired to the starter. 

I’ll try to grab some of the powerhead numbers tonight. Using OEM as much as possible. Good local engine shop nearby


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## adam_mac84 (Jan 14, 2019)

Pappy said:


> Wire should be there to serve as a shut off for the ignition. Can be connected to a push button kill switch or something dash mounted. Other side of the switch should go to ground.
> Make sure you do the entire job and do it correctly on the engine.
> Use OEM parts. Why? They fit! Sierra carb kits are incomplete. Sierra points do not line up. Sierra coils often will not mount at all and when they do the center pickup shoe is too far from the flywheel magnets to produce spark.
> Same with water pump. Do not bring this engine back into service without doing the water pump. Use OEM components here as well.
> ...



I am placing an order for the water pump as well as the throttle gear bushing and that little wedge pin in the throttle linkage. Trying to tighten things up a bit. Also ordering new fuel filter and maybe the parts for fuel pump. Although it seems be operating fine (for now)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## adam_mac84 (Jan 14, 2019)

Snagged some pics. I had not noticed the two tone but it certainly looks like a couple colors going on here (lower is also 2 tone it seems)

I did see what looked like some welding on the powerhead. I can’t say if I know if this is normal [emoji1744]‍[emoji3603]















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Pappy (Jan 14, 2019)

A 15036 is a 1962 18hp for sure. What baffles me is the green powerhead. The plug in the powerhead does not appear to have been installed by anyone other than the factory.
The welding is definitely a repair of some sort. The engine does have some of the original colored parts on it from what it looks like. Can you take a couple more pics of the side of the engine that has the plug in it? and a close up of the plug? Or can you take a good look at the plug and see if it looks like it has been installed in that powerhead by someone other than the factory. This is interesting.......


----------



## Shaugh (Jan 14, 2019)

> That button is wired to the starter.



Ok I think that was a common override with an electric start. Here is the exploded diagram:

https://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1961&hp=18&model=15035&manufacturer=Evinrude&section=Motor+Cover


It's interesting that marineengine.com doesn't even show a listing for 1962. But the parts should be the same in all but only a few cases.

Regarding the greenish color, it's easier to see in those better photos that it is all Evinrude imo. That light blue often cooked to a greenish color over time.

The weld is likely a repair of a stress crack caused by the electric start... which appears to be a later addition using newer parts.


----------



## adam_mac84 (Jan 14, 2019)

It certainly goes up toward the points.












Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Shaugh (Jan 14, 2019)

Yes when they converted it to an electric start they replaced the kill switch with the ignition switch. The kill switch was probably just discarded and the plug you see is what was left. Or it's possible it was wired to a remote switch, but I think many times people just killed the motor with the choke in those days.

here's a photo of a 59 Evinrude I have in the shop showing how the paint does turn greenish over time:



I think the green in your photos is mostly a camera / background reflection issue.


----------



## adam_mac84 (Jan 14, 2019)

Well. Touch old motors and things happen. Here (was) the old plug. Just fine tho. If it’s a kill ground I’ll just wire a leash.






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Shaugh (Jan 14, 2019)

That drawing was hard to see how the factory kill switch was wired... watch this movie at 2:35... the kill switch is the bottom center button. That's what should be connected to that plug:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXeo9vlTJlA

Yours has the battery wiring going out that switch hole.


----------



## adam_mac84 (Jan 14, 2019)

Makes sense. I’ll need a kill switch. Right now i just throttled down and it choked out


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Pappy (Jan 14, 2019)

That green color is a perfect old Johnson Green. Never have seen any old Evinrude go green like that and probably have been around a few thousand by now. There is more to this story. They will fade and/or turn color with an overheat but not like that. Most of the early silver blue Evinrudes faded into a light faded silver. 

There are slight variations in these old Johnsons depending on whether they have been repainted or not but this color sure should help you see what we see.


----------



## Shaugh (Jan 15, 2019)

It is an interesting puzzle. The only way we'll know is if he shoots a few more photos in better lighting... (away from those green walls)...

It's also something that needs to be nailed down before parts are purchased.... that lower unit is not the right color either.... So that impeller might not be right.


----------



## Pappy (Jan 15, 2019)

One of the pics shows that the cylinder head does have the thermostat and that was a later piece that the early models never had.


----------



## satx78247 (Jan 15, 2019)

Pappy,

NICE green Super Seahorses!!!

I'd bet everything in my pocket that that's a OB that "had a serious problem" & was put-together from Johnson spare parts. - I would be interested to know what powerhead that is & what the actual HP is.
(Inasmuch as those OBs really aren't either "rare" or "collector's pieces", IF the OB runs OK, who cares??)

I use 1955-70 Big-twins because they are EASY for even a "non-mechanic" like me to work on, TOUGH, LONG-lasting & CHEAP for powering my fishing boats. = Engines hardly could be any less complicated to maintain for decades.
(While I've seen MANY similar OBs ruined by misuse/accident, I've not seen any that were worn-out in service.)

just my OPINIONS, tex


----------



## adam_mac84 (Jan 17, 2019)

I’ll try to shoot some pics this weekend with a real camera and flash. Interesting watching people who know what they are talking about weigh in on this. Who knew it was even a puzzle . 

I was going to order an impeller (did open the pump just to confirm things were in one piece down here and was intact). 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Shaugh (Jan 17, 2019)

This photo of the top of the head clinches it for me... paint doesn't look that green, and the OEM plug is correct.... Hard to imagine a rebuilt head that got an OEM plug of the correct model put in ?







The worry about the lower unit is that it might be a newer model. The only way to really tell is pull it apart and find some part numbers on the pump housing etc. The paint color variations could simply be that somebody touched up the motor with a paint that didn't match ...


----------



## adam_mac84 (Jan 23, 2019)

Here’s what I could gather. To my eye the powerhead and the inside of the motor housing look the same color. But under fill flash. Not so much. I looked for other I.D. numbers on the lower and did not find anything.

















I am also trying to figure out how to get this gear off so I can replace the bushing under to try to fix some slop. I have it (throttle linkage) all disassembled but it won’t move up enough to come out. Do I need to disassemble further. (Motor mount is right there)






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Shaugh (Jan 24, 2019)

Part #29 just sits in that bushing:
https://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1961&hp=18&model=15035&manufacturer=Evinrude&section=Exhaust+Tube+And+Swivel+Bracket

But you need to remove part # 31 shown here to be able to lift it up. A common cause for slop in that system is a broken/cracked part #30... take it all apart and inspect it.
https://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1961&hp=18&model=15035&manufacturer=Evinrude&section=Powerhead+And+Fuel+Pump



Remove the lower unit and look at the impeller and housing before you buy replacements... often they were updated with later model parts.


----------



## Pappy (Jan 25, 2019)

Shaugh is correct. Never assume you just need an impeller. Look at the parts first. If the housing is grooved then the new impeller will suffer leakage all around and lose efficiency. Buy a housing for it if this is the case. Plus, who knows how long housings will be available so get the parts while you can.


----------



## satx78247 (Jan 25, 2019)

pappy,

VERY TRUE.

yours, tex


----------



## adam_mac84 (Jan 25, 2019)

Shaugh said:


> Part #29 just sits in that bushing:
> https://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1961&hp=18&model=15035&manufacturer=Evinrude&section=Exhaust+Tube+And+Swivel+Bracket
> 
> But you need to remove part # 31 shown here to be able to lift it up. A common cause for slop in that system is a broken/cracked part #30... take it all apart and inspect it.
> ...



I’ll have to have another go at it. I had #31 out and the gear would come all but maybe 1cm out from the bushing and it would get stuck hitting the motor housing. I’ll grab a pic next time. It is probably some stupid thing that I am not tilting right. I had everything disassembled from above and leading into that throttle gear. [emoji848]

I will also likely check back in before ordering any parts if I cannot find part numbers othe impeller as it seems this may have been a mechanics special so to speak. I already found one bolt on the lower that was rethreaded with a totally different thread pitch (my guess is a drilled out bolt)



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Pappy (Jan 25, 2019)

When I get into a vintage, antique, project engine or an older engine brought in by a customer what usually happens during the repair phase is what I call an "SRS".
SRS simply stands for Sin Removal Service. 
All who have touched the engine before you will leave their mark in one form or fashion. Sometimes it is a downright sin to see what these engines have gone through from folks working on them.


----------



## satx78247 (Feb 5, 2019)

pappy,

100% TRUE.

yours, tex


----------

