# 1966 MirroCraft 3614 Project



## oakchas (Apr 29, 2016)

My first AMBITIOUS project.

Last summer we acquired a 1966 _*Mirrocraft 3614 14' Deep Fisherman*_ "fishin' boat" with an Evinrude 8 HP motor, trolling motor, fish finder and trailer for a reasonable price. I had to spend about $200 to get the motor gone over completely, the motor only had about 20 hours on it, but it wasn't pumping water, so I got it tuned up and parts replaced as needed.

All in all it, had certainly seen some use and had been left tied up to a dock during a storm, so suffered a bit of paint scraping and a dent or two during the storm.

But it doesn't leak, it gets from here to there on the lakes, and I wanted to make it better and more comfortable.

This is what I am starting with:



This is the layout I'd like to end up with (the current *Mirrocraft 1415 Outfitter*) :





I have removed all the seats, the old broken transom; and I have pressure washed the interior hull:







I've flipped the boat and mounted it on sawhorses and tied it down to strip off the old brushed on paint:



I have acquired a treated lumber *which is approved for contact with aluminum* (no copper in the treatment) 2X12 which I have cut to the old transom shape and it is awaiting stain and varnish.

The thru bolts will be replaced with stainless steel. The old aluminum bench seats will be salvaged for a rear shelf inside the hull at the transom, and a couple of hatch covers (maybe).

I also purchased a 30X12X11 inch aluminum tool box from Northern tool which I will modify to be a wet well in the blue area of the floor plan above:



2 batteries will be placed starboard opposite the wet well to equalize the weight of the full wet well.

So far, calculations for weight will work out to be below the max with two heavy folks aboard, full wet well, 6 gallons of fuel, batteries, etc. Even with a motorized anchor mate she'll still be below the max weight by quite a bit. Flotation will be added under the decks,and I'll be using plywood for decking.

Barring rain tomorrow, I will begin stripping off the old paint.

I also will be rewiring the tilt trailer, and repainting it; in addition to replacing the bunks and probably the rear roller (which is bent but still rolls... Well, it does after I whacked it with a hammer a few dozen times!).

Wish me luck... I'm a woodworker, but this is one *ambitious* project!

Progress pix as time permits.


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## fool4fish1226 (Apr 30, 2016)

Looks like you have a good plan - keep us updated


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## oakchas (Apr 30, 2016)

So, stripping is a chore...  part chemical, part mechanical. This is about 4 hours work. Maybe 1/8 done.

Gone is the dream of a bare aluminum hull under the chine. Too much beach/dock/trailering rash. That's okay, I'll paint the bottom, too. Boy, that 50 year old turquoise paint is as tough as the newer stuff on top of it!

Here's the day's work before the rain set in:


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## oakchas (May 1, 2016)

Thinking about this, and it's really good news.... I don't have to be as picky about stripping. The previous layers of paint that stick will make good base, just scratch it with Scotch Brite and paint. 

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## oakchas (Jun 5, 2016)

Some progress...

I've stripped all I'm going to from the boat. and sanded the rest. Half of the boat is primed with an aluminum primer.

I repainted the trailer, remade the bunks, rewired the trailer and it's ready to go except for the bunk carpeting.

Rewiring the trailer was a pain. It's a tilt trailer, and the ground was weak to the back. I tried everything short of running a ground to each light. 

I came up with a "5 buck solution;" a battery cable from the front of the trailer to the tilting portion (at the hinge), and lots of dielectric grease.

Pix next post, I'm resizing them to minimize bandwidth.


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## oakchas (Jun 5, 2016)

You can see the before pic of the trailer with the old rotten bunks removed (and the new bunk wood laying in wait) and the mostly stripped and sanded boat.




Here's the trailer with new bunks from the side.




Here's the priming start.




Here's the "5 dollar fix" to the trailer.




Here's trailer from rear with half primed boat in the background. I added non slip stair tread tape to the trailer walk (we'll see if it stays stuck on after some use!).


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## oakchas (Jun 6, 2016)

For those of you calculating, it takes exactly 3 rattle cans of Rustoleum self etching primer to cover one side of this 14 foot boat. ONE coat. 

Wet sanding will make it take at least another coat, 

The other half has been primed, first coat.


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## oakchas (Jun 12, 2016)

All primed and wet sanded to 600 grit, with a scotchbrite ultra fine scrub down with simple green and a rinse, too.
Ready for paint.




The lighter color gray is a filling primer. It didn't take out all the 50 years of "rash," dents, and scratches. But the painted boat will shrink from a hundred foot boat to a pretty nice one at 20 feet.


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## oakchas (Jun 12, 2016)

Now, some technical questions....

Comparing the old boat to the new:

-----------the new 1415------the old 3614
Length-------- 14'6"------------ 13'5"
beam-----------70"---------------63"
bow depth------30.5"-------------30"
transom height--20"---------------20" *
empty wt-------445#-------------210#
max load--------915#-------------936#
all figures from factory info except * transom depth measured on the old 3614.


Since the old boat is marginally smaller, it displaces less (obviously). By length, it is 92% as long; and the empty weight could be 411#. By beam, it is 90% as wide; and empty weight could be 400#. By bow depth, 98% as deep; and empty weight could be 437#. 

My original calculations show the max load would not be exceeded even with all my changes and my wife and I on board, with the usual gear.

My question is, since the new boat will have more flotation, since I will be adding more flotation than the original (all the bench seats were filled with foam), can the empty weight be more and still allow more payload?

Could I take a third person, or add a third seat instead of just the pedestal socket, reasonably? Empty weight will not increase to even the smallest amount of 400#. 

Is it reasonable to expect the empty weight not matter too much, and still have the payload capacity?


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## oakchas (Jun 17, 2016)

1st and second coats of black up to the chine, with a few dribbles. 600 grit and ultra fine scotchbrite wet sand between coats then a wipe down with mineral spirits.

1st coat (6-13)





2nd coat this morning 











It's gonna take 4 to 5 coats to finish the black then smoke gray to the gunwales.


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## oakchas (Jun 21, 2016)

Second coat is wet sanded with 600 grit, and scotchbrite all over.

Since some of the rivets get sanded down to primer, I'm going to brush paint them (undiluted) and around all of them, the keel, and chine (where the seams are). And then, just scotchbrite those areas before putting on the 3rd coat. Then, I'll scotchbrite everything and the last coat of paint. Then hand sand to 1200 grit, and buff it out. 

I've been diluting my paint about 1/3 with mineral spirits to this point... but will decrease dilution to about 1/10th on the last two coats. 

Then I will mask from the chine seam down, and paint to the gunwales with smoke gray.


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## hoosier78 (Jun 22, 2016)

Following


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## fool4fish1226 (Jun 23, 2016)

Coming along great :beer:


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## oakchas (Jun 23, 2016)

Thanks guys.

Here's the thicker paint on the rivets and seams.











My wife says I'm trying to build a yacht. I just want something nice to be proud of. 

It didn't leak before, I don't want it to start leaking once done. 

Truth is, I'm getting impatient. 

Looking forward to putting it on the trailer, and working on the interior. 

I still have the sides and transom to paint grey.


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## oakchas (Jun 24, 2016)

A good friend makes vinyl lettering for most of the cop shops and many businesses here in east TN.

I asked him if he could cut the boat's name for me. 

This is what he did (well, it'll look like this on the starboard side of the transom once painted and ready).






In reflective white.


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## Wyatt (Jun 24, 2016)

Nice eye for detail so far on this build!


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## Happyrocker02 (Jun 24, 2016)

What is the best type of wood to use for a transom? And is it okay to put two pieces together? And if you do can you glue it? You seem to know a lot so I'd thought I'd ask


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## oakchas (Jun 25, 2016)

Happyrocker02 said:


> What is the best type of wood to use for a transom? And is it okay to put two pieces together? And if you do can you glue it? You seem to know a lot so I'd thought I'd ask
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I don't know a lot. I'm learning as I go. 

That said, I thought about using ipe wood for my transom. But, it's expensive and heavy. 

Lowe's, where I work, sells treated lumber that is approved for contact with aluminum. 

The original transom was un- treated pine or fir, and lasted 50 years. It was a 2 by 10 or 12 that was cut in the shape of a transom. I used the old one as a template for the replacement I cut out of a treated 2x12.

Do not use treated wood unless it specifically says it is approved for contact with aluminum. Most of it is NOT APPROVED. 

Copper is used to treat most lumber for outdoor use. It will react with the aluminum in the boat and cause the aluminum to corrode horribly. If the wood has a green tint, it is probably treated with copper. 

I don't know why you would want to glue together a transom? Plywood perhaps? That would give additional strength, I suppose, but the boat I'm doing is rated for a 40 hp motor, and the 2 by material was sufficient. 

If I were going to use ply, I would use "glue lam" in nominal 2x whatever width and length you need. And I would use "old timer's" varnish on it. Do a search for the recipe for old timer's wood varnish on this site.

These are only my opinions, as I said, I don't know much, but I'll share what I think and learn as I'm learning and thinking. 

Good luck!


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## oakchas (Jun 25, 2016)

oakchas said:


> Happyrocker02 said:
> 
> 
> > What is the best type of wood to use for a transom? And is it okay to put two pieces together? And if you do can you glue it? You seem to know a lot so I'd thought I'd ask
> ...


1 part mineral spirits 1 part boiled linseed oil 2 parts spar urethane then 2 coats straight spar urethane... I think that's the "old timer's" recipe.

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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Jun 25, 2016)

The correct formula is, 
One part Boiled Linseed oil, one part Spar varnish or Spar urethane, and two parts Mineral spirts.
Plywood is stronger than dimensional lumber. You need a water proof glue like Titebond III.


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## oakchas (Jun 25, 2016)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> The correct formula is,
> One part Boiled Linseed oil, one part Spar varnish or Spar urethane, and two parts Mineral spirts.
> Plywood is stronger than dimensional lumber. You need a water proof glue like Titebond III.


Prolly depends on which old timer you ask. ... lol

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## Hanr3 (Jun 26, 2016)

Happyrocker02 said:


> What is the best type of wood to use for a transom? And is it okay to put two pieces together? And if you do can you glue it? You seem to know a lot so I'd thought I'd ask
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



White Oak is the strongest and naturally rot resistant. Sailors have been making boats out of it for centuries. Problem with plywood is voids. You need a marine grade solid plywood with as many layers as you can find. Can you use an inferior grade, yes! The trade off is longevity. If you're going to keep it for 10 years or less, go with plywood. Rest of you're life, go with white oak. 

Great build so far.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Jun 27, 2016)

oakchas said:


> lckstckn2smknbrls said:
> 
> 
> > The correct formula is,
> ...


My old-timer can beat up your old-timer.
:LOL2:


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## oakchas (Jun 27, 2016)

Old timer's aside... You don't wanna mess with old timer's.... they'll just kill ya.

So, I mowed over the weekend.

mowing dust all over the boat. 

sigh

Fortunately, paint was long dry, and scotch-brited... today I was gonna add a coat.

Rain threatens, it's miserable hot and humid, and I had to rinse it down anyway. Instead of painting, I washed and masked. Last two coats of black will go down (above the rivets in the pic) to the mask line. Then I can reverse mask for the gray.


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## oakchas (Jun 28, 2016)

Okay.

Today I rolled on the fourth coat. You've all seen what shiny paint looks like, so no need to post a pic.

Weather permitting, tomorrow I will scotch brite the fourth coat.

Friday, I'll try to do the final coat.

If I'm lucky, I can start on gray next week.

2 months elapsed so far... That's the problem if you're retired, with a part time job, and a honey do list.


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## doug.davidson.86 (Jun 28, 2016)

I'm going back a bit... What was the process you used to take off the old paint?


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## oakchas (Jun 30, 2016)

doug.davidson.86 said:


> I'm going back a bit... What was the process you used to take off the old paint?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I tried chemical strpping. Outdoors, it wasn't working well. Probably flashing off too quickly. So, I used a cup brush (knotted wire) and some flap discs on an angle grinder VERY CAREFULLY.

But, mostly, I used a random orbit sander with 60, 80, 140, 220 grit pads. That left some previous primer and a little bit of paint on the boat in spots.

See here: https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?p=411881#p411881

And the two posts after it, where you can see the old zinc chromate primer that was left on.


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## oakchas (Jul 9, 2016)

Following my method has revealed a finish you can read the newspaper in!







No wait, that's newspaper taped above the reverse mask to avoid gray roller spatter....

According to the Internet, you're supposed to thin 50/50 mineral spirits... if your air bubbles don't self-pop, it's too thick. 

I disagree, many fewer air bubbles at all with a 33/66 mix, more paint than mineral spirits. Here's what happened with 1st coat of gray at 50/50.






It's nothing that won't be fixed with some wet sanding and heavier subsequent coats.

Also, coverage is much worse with the 50/50.


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## tsbrewers (Jul 10, 2016)

Not sure if i missed it, but by the talk, sounds like you are using Rustoleum paint? Or maybe Brightside?


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## oakchas (Jul 10, 2016)

tsbrewers said:


> Not sure if i missed it, but by the talk, sounds like you are using Rustoleum paint? Or maybe Brightside?


Rustoleum. Plain ol' Rustoleum. Nothing special. Stock colors. Gloss oil based enamel. 

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## FormerParatrooper (Jul 10, 2016)

Looks good so far. =D>


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## Al U Minium (Jul 11, 2016)

oakchas said:


> Some progress...
> 
> I've stripped all I'm going to from the boat. and sanded the rest. Half of the boat is primed with an aluminum primer.
> 
> ...



Dielectric grease is not conductive which means the electrical connection you are trying to achieve is being compromised by the grease applied. The attachment points should be clean metal to metal. After bolt up and final tightening, coat the connection with something to keep air and water out of the connection to prevent deterioration of the connection from oxidation and corrosion. This does not apply to aluminum conductors with anti-oxidant coatings as the connectors used displace the coating at the connection.


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## oakchas (Jul 11, 2016)

Al U Minium said:


> oakchas said:
> 
> 
> > Some progress...
> ...


You are correct, technically. 

However, I've never had corrosion, nor a lack of sufficient contact when applying some grease to all the surfaces on equipment ranging from antique tractors and cars (with antiquated 6 volt systems) to late model earth moving equipment with 24 volt systems.

And then I coated everything heavily after the connection was made. 

Back in the day, I just used Vaseline in place of fancy dielectric grease. 

NEVER had a failure. 

Just sayin'.

Oh, and here's a link to someone with more actual knowledge and tests of the notion if you're interested:

https://www.w8ji.com/dielectric_grease_vs_conductive_grease.htm


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## oakchas (Jul 12, 2016)

Argh! I am really not happy with the 50/50 mix. 

The bubbles that did pop ended up like fish eyes from hades. 

I had to resort to 400 grit and "very fine" (red) scotchbrite.

Wet sanding done just before thunderstorms rolled thru. 

Guess I can put on a heavier coat tomorrow, and hope it evens things out a bit.


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## oakchas (Jul 14, 2016)

Got the second coat on today. Better coverage, no unburst bubbles, no fisheyes. A few runs. A few drips. 

All in all, much better. Now I can go back to 600 grit and ultra fine scotchbrite. 

Probably two more coats. 

Painting on the vertical sides is a bit more of a challenge for runs and drips. But going much thicker to eliminate that doesn't allow the paint to cure. Unthinned Rustoleum doesn't seem to cure EVER.

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## water bouy (Jul 15, 2016)

I like the layout you're going for. I may send you a 16 ft for the same treatment.


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## oakchas (Jul 15, 2016)

water bouy said:


> I like the layout you're going for. I may send you a 16 ft for the same treatment.


Thanks but no thanks! One thing I've learned, and it's been said here before: "paint the thing and get out on the water and catch some fish!"

That said, I got another coat of gray on just now. .. thought I'd be able to wet and with 600 and ultra fine scotchbrite. NO.

Another round of 400 and very fine scotchbrite before this coat. 

Am I trying to make a silk purse? Yeah, kinda. 

Anyway, here's the latest coat:





Just a couple more coats to go. Then some 1500, 2000 and a buffer over the whole thing. Then wax and put on the trailer. 

I hope there's some good fall fishin'!


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## oakchas (Jul 16, 2016)

Today was spent with maroon (very fine, not ultra fine) scotchbrite followed by 600 grit wet sanding and a wash down with simple green.

Still gonna take two more coats

Bummer.

Then I can unmask and start fine sanding and polish. Sigh. 

I still think it'll be a good 14 foot boat.... and a lot better than the 100 footer it started out as.


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## oakchas (Jul 20, 2016)

Another coat of gray today. Maybe it won't require another. 

I'll find out by wet sanding with 1200 grit. If that goes well, I'll go to 2000 grit. Then, unmask and polish. If not, one more coat. NO MAS!

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## oakchas (Jul 22, 2016)

Okay! 

Gray sanded to 600, three small areas to touch up. One dent, and a couple of rivet heads. 

Un masked:





The masked lines came pretty clean. A little bleed where there were some prop gouges in the transom. 

Two delaminations of paint on the black. 











These are no bigger than a quarter. I will sand them back, reprime with etching primer, I'll hit the rivets and dent on the gray as well, brush some paint and sand those spots. 

Masking tape, even "delicate surface" removable tape and hot sun for more than a couple of weeks makes for very difficult unmasking. Simple green spray cleaner helped with peeling the tape. Mineral spirits cleaned up the adhesive.

It was a couple of hours to unmask it all. 

I'll sand the black to 1200, and polish it out after fixing the delams.

Carpet comes today plus bunk carpet. 

Hope to have it on the trailer by the first of next week. 

YAY!


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## oakchas (Jul 25, 2016)

primed spots:










And, someone came by to inspect the progress, cute blue tail!


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## oakchas (Aug 6, 2016)

Okay, so... I touched up the few spots that were re-primed. Wet sanded them down to 2000 grit.

I started buffing out the transom and and got it done and some of the the port side. I'm using some old Turtle Wax buffing compound (paste) that I had around. This is not my first choice for buffing compound with a random orbit sander polisher... but it's doing the job, and it's not hurting anything. After I get the buffing done, I plan to polish with polishing compound, and then waxing.

Just having done the research on waxing a freshly painted item (car/boat, whatever), there's a lot of talk about not doing it. "paint has to off gas," and all that... If 90+ degree days and sunshine won't sufficiently bake the paint... Surface temps on the boat skin have been over 125 degrees... I don't know what will...I'm gonna wax it. 

I carpeted the bunks on the trailer a few days ago... and I'm getting anxious to get it back on the trailer to start working on the interior. 

This has taken much longer than I wanted it to; but I think in the end, it will have been worth it.

pix soon.


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## FormerParatrooper (Aug 6, 2016)

When your done, you can look at it with pride of a job well done and enjoy it more.


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## oakchas (Aug 8, 2016)

Rubbing out is done. A $70 6inch random orbital sander/buffer from harbor freight made the job easy and tolerable. Less expensive than a porter cable (by 1/2), it does a good job. Not as good as the cyclo I used to own, but goodenuf.

So, it's flatter than a show boat, and shinier than a flat black rat rod. 

Its got orange peel, less than a Sunkist orange, much more than a Steinway.







Polishing its next, then wax. Have to wait for dusk before polishing. Just like I had to get up at dawn tho do the rubbing compound.


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## derekdiruz (Aug 8, 2016)

I like it. Your work is looking great and paying off!

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## oakchas (Aug 8, 2016)

FormerParatrooper said:


> When your done, you can look at it with pride of a job well done and enjoy it more.



That's the goal.

Thanks


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## oakchas (Aug 8, 2016)

derekdiruz said:


> I like it. Your work is looking great and paying off!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk



Thanks!


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## oakchas (Aug 9, 2016)

In case you're wondering what the difference is between rubbing out and polishing... Here's a photo description:

Polishing, first pass:






Rubbing, last pass:






I'm using polishing compound on this first pass of polishing. I'll be using a liquid polishing paste on the second polishing pass before waxing.


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## oakchas (Aug 10, 2016)

Polish and wax done. Boat is on trailer. 

Another pic of wax final before it went on the trailer:






Far from perfect, but goodenuf.

Now I can start on the innards.


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## oakchas (Aug 15, 2016)

Ready to get started on the inside! 

I had some minor surgery, so I have to wait a bit before I can crawl around in her and lift plywood, etc. But she's on the trailer and I am champing at the bit!


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## DaleH (Aug 15, 2016)

oakchas said:


> Polish and wax done. Boat is on trailer.
> 
> Another pic of wax final before it went on the trailer:


FYI, *turn your tape measure around!*

Seriously, when the Pros detail a boat, they put the ruled tape vertically against the hull and "look" for the number of inches of reflection gained in the surface. 

It is a _much more reliable indicator of shine_ than you would believe it to be, so much so that it is a good way to check between cleaning methods or products used! When the Pros at shows or such talk "depth of finish" ... this is what they are alluding to.


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## oakchas (Aug 15, 2016)

Thanks. I used to detail cars back in the day, so I know of what you speak.

It isn't that important to me. I've already admitted to less orange peel than a Sunkist, more than a Steinway.

It's a roller paint job, in full sun, and horrible heat.

If I were going for concours, I would have done most everything differently.

As it is, it's a 14 foot tin boat. Viewable from 14 feet.

As it was, it was a 14 foot boat. Viewable from 100 feet.

Works for me, and I don't think the fish will judge too harshly.

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## oakchas (Aug 20, 2016)

oakchas said:


> Ready to get started on the inside!
> 
> I had some minor surgery, so I have to wait a bit before I can crawl around in her and lift plywood, etc. But she's on the trailer and I am champing at the bit!
> 
> View attachment 1


So, just to do things right for flotation, I weighed the trailer alone, and then with the hull on it.

Trailer weight: 380 lbs.
Trailer and hull: 520 lbs.

A hull weight of 140 lbs.!

That's interesting to me. Hard to believe all that aluminum and 5-7 coats of paint and primer weighs only 140 pounds!

That's light, compared to what I thought it would be.


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## oakchas (Aug 28, 2016)

Okay, so today before the rain hit, I was able to cut the foredeck and the access panel to it. 






Just like the one on the new one on the first page of this thread.

The reason it doesn't fit perfectly is that I have to bend the ends in.

The access panel is cut from the top of the old front seat.

I'll be using the rear seat or the middle seat as the rear splash guard/transom tray. 

The remaining seat will be cut up for use as a control/switch panel near the captain's seat at the rear. Lights, remote control for anchor winch, bilge and aerator for live well.


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## DiverJosh82 (Aug 28, 2016)

Great work! I'm really liking your build. I'm actually building the same boat! I just finished the stripping today. I can't wait to see where you go with it.


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## oakchas (Aug 28, 2016)

DiverJosh82 said:


> Great work! I'm really liking your build. I'm actually building the same boat! I just finished the stripping today. I can't wait to see where you go with it.


Thanks! 

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## oakchas (Aug 31, 2016)

okay, I just noticed that the first page didn't show what the 1415 outfitter looks like from the stern:




And again from the bow:




So that gives you an Idea of where I'm headed, and what the build should look *similar to* when done.

I still can't lift and move stuff over 15#, so I'm measuring and comparing actual measurements to my CAD drawings.


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## oakchas (Aug 31, 2016)

A better fit (with a small HVAC flange bender, pliers, tin snips, and an angle grinder):






Aluminum is pretty easy to work. I'll have to get a bit more creative to bend the rear shelf/ splash plate.


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## oakchas (Sep 1, 2016)

Ya know, it's interesting... 

I'm getting closer to carpeting. I've bought the carpet. I've bought carpet pad. (There's that silk purse again, LOL!) Now the pad is from a boat carpet "e-tailer" and, it's approved for double glue down: i.e. glue the pad down, glue the carpet to the pad. Great, right? 

Well, it's a polyurethane padding. Will a solvent based adhesive eat it up? Hmmm...

Most solvent based adhesives say not to use it on painted or protected (say, coated with "old timers" boat wood finish) surfaces, because it will eat the protection. Most water based adhesives for marine use (once it's dry, water won't cause it to come unglued), say that if the adhesive doesn't soak into the wood a bit... it won't stick well.

So, this means I have to leave the carpeted side of the plywood untreated. Whichever way I glue the carpet down on it.

That does not please me. Wood rots. It rots slower if protected. Carpet holds moisture, a perfect environment to accelerate rotting.

Aluminum decking is great, but it adds weight without flotation, requiring offset auxiliary flotation. 

To heck with it! Full steam ahead! 

Plywood!

It'll probably last until the boat is part of my estate, anyway.

Worrying ain't getting the boat built! But it's raining, anyway.


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## oakchas (Sep 3, 2016)

Finished the template for th bottom of the foredeck cubby.





Story sticks in foreground.


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## oakchas (Sep 5, 2016)

Tick, tickle, toggle, joggle!

The tick stick method of duplicating patterns. Tick sticks are also called by the other names above.

Here's a piece of paper mostly centered in the area I need to duplicate for the casting deck with the tick stick:







Here's the resultant marked piece of paper (don't know if you can see the tracings of the tick stick inn pencil):






Placed on the board to be cut; aligning the aft port tick mark to the factory corner, and the starboard aft tick mark to the factory edge (aft is at the top of the picture). The dots are connected (on the plywood to be cut) with a flexible steel rule, pressed against finish nails to make a fair curve:






Here's the resultant casting deck in place, with the storage cubby floor, the cubby access, and the foredeck:






I also ground off the old front seat brackets. They'll be covered with some led courtesy lights.


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## oakchas (Sep 5, 2016)

Half inch ply for that casting deck. So, I will be making support "joists" for the casting deck, and adding 3/4 ply under the seat pedestal mount.

Also, had to trim the edges of it a bit to allow for carpet.

For more accuracy, you have to make more tick stick marks on your paper for more points along the curves and angles... In this case I know carpet will cover a multitude of "sins."


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## DiverJosh82 (Sep 5, 2016)

Looking good! I have a question about your paint prep work. After you put the self etching primer on, how long did you let it cure before you scuffed it up for the next paint work? I applied the rusto self etching primer on Saturday evening and today I took my fingernail to a hidden area and it scraped right off! Now I'm worried big time about my adhesion.. I think I did it right, I scuffed up the bare aluminum, washed it with tsp (which apparently has etching ability on aluminum) let it dry and did two nice and light coats of the etching primer. 
Sorry I didn't mean to hijack your thread! I just admired the quality of your paint work and figured you could give me some advice.

I'm thinking of giving it a few days, then going at it pretty good with scotch write pads, giving it a good wash then maybe either more primer of straight to paint.. Whatchu think?

Also I like your tick stick. I'm a carpenter by trade so I know what your talking about..
Josh


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## rednecknproud21 (Sep 5, 2016)

Looking Good 

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## oakchas (Sep 5, 2016)

DiverJosh82 said:


> Looking good! I have a question about your paint prep work. After you put the self etching primer on, how long did you let it cure before you scuffed it up for the next paint work? I applied the rusto self etching primer on Saturday evening and today I took my fingernail to a hidden area and it scraped right off! Now I'm worried big time about my adhesion.. I think I did it right, I scuffed up the bare aluminum, washed it with tsp (which apparently has etching ability on aluminum) let it dry and did two nice and light coats of the etching primer.
> Sorry I didn't mean to hijack your thread! I just admired the quality of your paint work and figured you could give me some advice.
> 
> I'm thinking of giving it a few days, then going at it pretty good with scotch write pads, giving it a good wash then maybe either more primer of straight to paint.. Whatchu think?
> ...



Thanks!

Hmmm. Didn't try scraping the paint off with a fingernail or anything. And, looking at the date codes on my phone pix... It looks like I started painting the day after my priming was complete. I didn't use TSP to etch, I used white vinegar. Rinsed thoroughly. Waited a day to dry, wiped down with mineral spirits. started priming. Used 600 grit the next day, and another wipe down with mineral spirits before recoating with more primer. 

I always wiped down with mineral spirits just before the next coat went on... If birds got to it, I'd wash the area with simple green, and then rinse twice with rag, then wipe with mineral spirits before painting. 

Honestly, for all I know, I'll drop it in the water and all the paint will just fall off! I don't think so.... but that tends to be my luck.


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## oakchas (Sep 5, 2016)

rednecknproud21 said:


> Looking Good
> 
> Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk



Thank you! I'm trying to do a good job.


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## rednecknproud21 (Sep 5, 2016)

I got a 1974 mirrocraft I redid I love it. These boats extremely well built





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## oakchas (Sep 5, 2016)

Nice! I'm stuck with an 8 hp Evinrude. Saw how you went to a 25... Maybe next year for me.

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## DiverJosh82 (Sep 5, 2016)

oakchas said:


> DiverJosh82 said:
> 
> 
> > Looking good! I have a question about your paint prep work. After you put the self etching primer on, how long did you let it cure before you scuffed it up for the next paint work? I applied the rusto self etching primer on Saturday evening and today I took my fingernail to a hidden area and it scraped right off! Now I'm worried big time about my adhesion.. I think I did it right, I scuffed up the bare aluminum, washed it with tsp (which apparently has etching ability on aluminum) let it dry and did two nice and light coats of the etching primer.
> ...


Yeah thats kind of my thinking. If that happens so be it! I'm going to hit it with some 600 grit or maybe even a bit rougher. Whatever comes off will just get re primed. I probably should have given it a mineral spirits bath too.


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## lvhish486 (Sep 6, 2016)

I like your plans for the deck. I have a similar (if not the same) boat. My plans for the deck are a little different though.

After much brainstorming, I decided to bring my casting deck up to where the seats are mounted rather to where the ribs lay. I'm going to use the second seat as support and strength and take it all the way to the front, covering the front seat for a long casting deck. The back seat is going to be leveled as well and go back to the transom.

Now seeing how you did yours I'm starting to second my plans. Would having the deck that long and high throw off the balance/stability of the boat?


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## oakchas (Sep 6, 2016)

I don't know if it would be less stable or not. But, looking at rednecknproud's mirro above (even though it's beached), it seems that the boat floats high. Of course, with weight in it, it'll sit lower.

The choice is yours, but you could test it easy enough. Cut the ply for your long deck. Don't screw it down. Take it to some shallow water, and float test it.

Dance on the deck. If you're comfortable with it, take it home and nail it down.


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## oakchas (Sep 8, 2016)

All three decks cut and test fit.

I'll start finishing the underside of the decks, or measuring for supports tomorrow.


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## oakchas (Sep 9, 2016)

So, I started by vacuuming out the galvanized shavings out of the hull, and make a stick to represent the width of the back deck. 

It is then that I decide to check the seat pedestal mounts, and realize I need clearance below the deck for the post (I remembered that I bought surface mount pedestal mounts... But I mis-remembered. The JOYS of getting older!).

So, I have to raise the aft deck a bit. Only an inch and a half at the very rear, and an inch and a half at the edges.

The bottom of the seat pedestal on the rearmost seat will clear the hull fine. And if not, I can mount the reinforcement ply for it above the top surface of the deck.


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## oakchas (Sep 10, 2016)

Okay. Support ribs cut. They will be screwed (lag bolts) to the aluminum ribs.

The 1/2 inch decking will sit on top of these. Aluminum angle will be screwed through the carpet and deck into the ends of the wooden support ribs.






There will be some flotation glued to the bottom of the decking between the support ribs. There will be some more flotation in the side lockers, as well as under the fore and mid (casting) decks.

It's starting to progress!

I'm weighing the low deck and the ribs, to help calculate flotation required for regulation compliance. Everything else so far has been weighed, and calculated in a spreadsheet.


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## oakchas (Sep 14, 2016)

Stringers lagged in place. Hot dipped galvanized. Thank goodness for a drill press, deep thinwall sockets, and odd sized spade bits. 

I was afraid I'd drilled into the hull on one of the center lags. Thin cut-offs from the front bench seat confirmed I didn't. Whew!


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## oakchas (Sep 16, 2016)

Casting deck cubbies and seat mount cut out. The v-shaped piece is just for support while measuring for cross or longitudinal bracing (haven't decided yet).


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## oakchas (Sep 20, 2016)

So today was spent making the holes for the seat mounts in the lower deck, cutting out the plywood reinforcements for under the seats, and checking the seats for rotation interference with the live well. It's all good!














Both seats have pedestals. But the rear I knew would be okay.


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## oakchas (Sep 21, 2016)

Leak testing the live well. Only one leak I didn't expect. I'll fix that and the ones from the rivets, which I did expect.


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## oakchas (Sep 23, 2016)

Today, I placed 1.83 Cu. Ft. of flotation under the aft deck (where the 2 seats are).

3.8 cu. ft. of foam is required along the sides in the main passenger area +some for the seats (haven't calculated that yet). 

I need 1.1 cu. ft. of flotation to offset the swamped wt. of the batteries and live well (empty).

Since the hull was rated for a 40 hp motor, I need 2.37 cu. ft. of flotation near the transom.

All should fit in the cubby lockers along the sides and still leave room for rods along the starboard side, and misc. stuff in the port lockers.

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## oakchas (Apr 4, 2017)

Well, I ain't dead yet, and neither is the project... Got the foredeck installed today. 

Placed the other two decks.

Still have the side cubbys to go... And wiring... The live well... And and and... But, it's coming along.


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## oakchas (May 6, 2018)

So...Finally! It's done! Well, almost... this was the maiden test voyage. to make sure all electronics worked, all the live well plumbing worked, and that it floated. This pic was shot after the maiden run, waiting at the ramp to pic it up. My wife's son standing in the shallows with her while I back up the truck.




What went right: 

Seats. posts move from mid to front on the water without too much difficulty.
Live well works, aerates on timer, drains as it should (on the trailer)
No plumbing leaks
All electronics work: battery switch, trolling motor, nav and anchor lights, search light.
It works as a rescue vehicle (see note below)

What went wrong:

Nothing until we got help from strangers who cranked it onto the trailer so hard they ripped open the factory landing ring on front of boat! We had to limp home carefully, with the winch strap hooked around the motor to transom mount to keep from losing the boat off the trailer, even with a back strap holding her on the trailer.

Okay so the maiden voyage consisted of staying pretty much in this cove off the main lake. A couple were trying out their new jet ski and flipped it over. They righted it, went to shore across from the ramp and couldn't back off the sand edge with both aboard. We picked up the one who remained behind and delivered her to the ramp.

What get's fixed: the bow ring (taking this to a welder). And a new gas can. 

I had some problems with the original tank leaking air and couldn't get the motor to keep siphoning gas from tank due to an air leak around the hose inlet to the tank... once the air leak sealed, it kept running for at least an hour tooling around this cove and a little bit into the main lake. After it's all done, more pix of the interior and a few more details... this has been a long process... but finally, Ransomed has had her maiden voyage!


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## oakchas (May 23, 2018)

Ok... Pics... Heavy... Big...






























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## oakchas (May 23, 2018)

If you go back to the beginning, you'll see I was able to meet the goal... With a few tweaks. Batteries (2) had to be exposed, opposite the live well.

I built an extension rod for the fish finder from a flag holder, a 1" dowel (inside 1"pvc), a pvc 45°, a 1x1/2 pvc x flip bushing, a 1/2" iron pipe street 90°ell, a 1/2" close steel nipple, and a 1/2 steel floor flange... It puts the Humminbird Helix 5 DI G2 GPS with Navionics right at eye level for the helm.

Cabela's big man seats, on Attwood adjustable height pedestals, with an extra socket on the step-up deck.

Original empty weight was 210 from the factory. After all decks and carpet, and seats.... 280... Yay! I'm about 40 lbs under max weight with full live well, trolling motor, 2 big batteries, 8 hp 2cycle 'Rude motor, 6 gal gas full, and two heavy folks aboard.

I'm very pleased... And wifey liked the work so much, she bought me the new fish finder!

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## oakchas (May 23, 2018)

I love the remote controlled Trac anchor winch, it works great! I'm going to add a disconnect to the searchlight, so I don't have to bring it when not planning night fishing. There is a plug in for underwater lights in front of the Battery bay.

Now, if they'd get the rain out of the forecast, I could actually take my wife fishing....

I'm pumped up... Sure took long enough!

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## oakchas (May 23, 2018)

One pic shows the valving for the live well, it fills and drains from the same inlet. Overflows out port side. Fill switch is three way... On, off, timed... It doesn't drain while full, but aerates through spray bar at top of well...

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## oakchas (Jun 4, 2018)

Okay, a better side by side before and after.


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## jasper60103 (Jun 5, 2018)

Nice transformation. Good work. =D> 
You gotta love those helpful strangers at the ramp :LOL2: 
Thanks for sharing.


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## Bridge4 (Jun 5, 2018)

Great job, looks like you have a lot of nice days fishing ahead of you!


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## oakchas (Jun 5, 2018)

Thanks so much guys...

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## oakchas (Jun 7, 2018)

Okay, two fishing trips.... each time fish were caught and released. Nothing worth keeping. Lost the anchor on the first fishing trip.... Here's what happened. Brought the anchor up into the anchor winch and bloop! Thar she went. Rats! Looked like it tore the anchor off of the anchor rope. So when I got it home I looked it over pretty carefully. The anchor rope provided with the winch was frayed on the end... but I could see where it was NOT spliced around the thimble (which was now gone) but the end of the rope was pushed into a hole in the weave higher on the rope. not good, not permanent. So, bought a new anchor. Tied a SS snap link onto the end of the anchor rope with an anchor bend. Put a new SS anchor shackle on the anchor. Works like a champ.

On the second trip, filling the live well from the aerator leg did not work, initially. Filled it from the drain line side, no problem. Subsequent timed aeration worked fine... apparently a "vapor lock" in the line feeding the aerator fill side leaving both valves open when filling on the drain end filled both lines... and no subsequent difficulties.


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## Bridge4 (Jun 9, 2018)

oakchas said:


> Okay, two fishing trips.... each time fish were caught and released. Nothing worth keeping. Lost the anchor on the first fishing trip.... Here's what happened. Brought the anchor up into the anchor winch and bloop! Thar she went. Rats! Looked like it tore the anchor off of the anchor rope. So when I got it home I looked it over pretty carefully. The anchor rope provided with the winch was frayed on the end... but I could see where it was NOT spliced around the thimble (which was now gone) but the end of the rope was pushed into a hole in the weave higher on the rope. not good, not permanent. So, bought a new anchor. Tied a SS snap link onto the end of the anchor rope with an anchor bend. Put a new SS anchor shackle on the anchor. Works like a champ.
> 
> On the second trip, filling the live well from the aerator leg did not work, initially. Filled it from the drain line side, no problem. Subsequent timed aeration worked fine... apparently a "vapor lock" in the line feeding the aerator fill side leaving both valves open when filling on the drain end filled both lines... and no subsequent difficulties.



No way to know if it will go wrong until you test it out! Good to hear they were both relatively minor issues you got straightened out.


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## akboats (Jun 10, 2018)

Looks great i like the way you have the decks set up. I dont like how some come all the way to the top i would end up prolly kicking something offon those.


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## oakchas (Jun 11, 2018)

Bridge.... Yep, you're right... Learn by getting it out there.....

AK.... Thanks... I copied the newest version of mirrocraft's 14 footer.... Only thing I would change is to move the aft seat back 4-6"...

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## murphy67 (Aug 8, 2018)

Awesome build and work!!

I am planning to start my 2nd boat "build"/restore on a similar 14ft tinny hopefully before winter sets in(looking to finish by summer 2019) and might borrow some of your ideas for the flooring and such, thanks for the great read!


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