# here we go....



## bandgeek1263 (Jun 30, 2010)

Well, I gots a boat


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## bandgeek1263 (Jun 30, 2010)

Sorry, they posted in reverse order. Don't know why though.


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## Brine (Jun 30, 2010)

https://www.feathercraft.net/index.html


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## bandgeek1263 (Jul 1, 2010)

Thanks for the link, it for some reason wasn't working on my computer when I tried it as I was looking for info. 

So, first thing is first. My dad says I can't paint it no matter how much I explain it to him. So, jumping right to the inside. Redid the transom in about 90 minutes of straight work. There were so many rusted bolts and things stickin out so that was very time consuming. I now have to seal it and get to Home Depot to get some 5200 to seal the bolts.

Edit: sealed transom, just gotta find 5200.


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## bandgeek1263 (Jul 2, 2010)

Some progress today. Removed a bench, the only one that will be removed; cut the floor framing, and started framing the bow. I need some help with a couple spots in the gunwale.Theres a 2 inch tear and a few holes from the previous oar locks. Should I try brazing rods? Welding? 
Thanks for the help in advance.


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## huntinfool (Jul 2, 2010)

Looks good so far, just be careful raising the floor too much, that boat does not look too wide and it will get top heavy in a hurry. As for the split on the gunnel, I guess how I would fix it might be different than most and it would depend on your skill level. I personally would weld it. If I could not weld it I would cut a small piece of aluminum to fit underneath and pop rivet it in and then just fill the hole with jb weld or something like that. You might be able to put the aluminum underneath it and get the brazing/aluminum rod and try that.


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## bandgeek1263 (Jul 2, 2010)

I was thinking a screen or something of that sort and brazing or epoxying over that. Also, I made my own strong ties from galvanized steel strapping that works perfectly. Is it going to react with the aluminum?

Its surprisingly stable. Three guys standing up could fish pretty easily and comfortably. Thanks for keeping an eye out.


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## Sader762 (Jul 3, 2010)

Fix it with a brazing rod they work well for situations like that.


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## bandgeek1263 (Jul 3, 2010)

Will these work? 

https://www.tractorsupply.com/weldi...x-coated-brazing-rod-3-32-in-x-18-in--3810802

Anybody know if the galvanic coating will react with the aluminum? I don't think it will corrode anything, but it might add a layer of oxide that could compromise the structural integrity.


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## bandgeek1263 (Jul 3, 2010)

Anyone? Really need some help here...


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## Sader762 (Jul 4, 2010)

NO---use aluminum ones, those are made from other metals=bad idea. I got mine from Northern tool, cost around $12.

Look on youtube to see how to use them.


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## bandgeek1263 (Jul 4, 2010)

Oh yeah progress for today- well yesterday technically- started bracing for the bow cover and started the trolling motor conversion to a bow mount. Yup, measured the aluminum for the arm, started cutting with a cutoff wheel. Caught an edge, and gouged a nice laceration in my knee through my shorts. Went inside and realized I was late to my girlfriend's 4th party. Sign from god saying I should spend less time on the boat? Who knows. I think I needed stitches, but it wasn't bleeding too badly so I just butterflied it and got back to work. Still need to get to home depot and get some plywood, carpet, and wire. That will probably be it for the building, then need seats, lights, switches, and whatever else I wanna burn my (dad's) wallet on.

Wish me luck


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## bandgeek1263 (Jul 4, 2010)

My friend's dad is a master welder so I might have him work his TIG magic rather than brazing.


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## bandgeek1263 (Jul 9, 2010)

Going to paint it. Charcoal Grey on bottom, and DARK blue on top. I'm slightly worried about registration. There is no title I'm sure, seeing as the last time it was registered was in '73. The only Serial Number info I saw before the 2500 psi water killed it was CF-****** (I only saw CF, or perhaps something similar, like CE, CS, or CT?) Other than that, I have no info on it. It is *technically* under 14 feet, and anything below 14 feet in MA you don't need a title. Should I apply for one anyway? 

Random Questions: 
Can you paint over 5200?

I really don't plan on spending the 200 dollars on pedestals and mounts and swivels. That is excluding the actual seat itself. Anywhere I can cut corners? That was the cheapest quote, other than Cabela's $150 with non-flush base plates. (something I really am determined not to get)

The guy who cuts our lawn has an old 6 hp Johnson or Evinrude, I don't remember. He is giving it to me for free, and I'd like to know how well it will push around my boat. I don't think it will get me on plane with all of my gear and whatnot. Should I clean it up, sell it, and reinvest the money in a larger motor? 

What happens if my trolling motor's shaft doesn't reach the water from the bow where I will be mounting? Could I fabricate something to allow the motor to hang over the side more? I am a little overwhelmed at the moment. Well, it could be worse. I have to recut all of my center floor spars due to them not fitting as properly as I though they would end up. 

I have to wire wheel down to bare aluminum and use self etching primer right? How well will the paint adhere? Will it chip easily? I plan on using Rustoleum. 

Anyway, I feel like I'm rambling. Please post concerns, criticism, and comments. Thanks guys, without this forum I would still be fishing from the shore. :LOL2:


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## Loggerhead Mike (Jul 9, 2010)

no. you've really got to have some good skill to get those to work correctly

the main problem is the amount of heat you need to break threw the oxide barrier is above aluminums melting point. I'd just get a welder to fix it correctly you're probably looking at an hour labor charge


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## devilmutt (Jul 9, 2010)

> I really don't plan on spending the 200 dollars on pedestals and mounts and swivels. That is excluding the actual seat itself. Anywhere I can cut corners? That was the cheapest quote, other than Cabela's $150 with non-flush base plates. (something I really am determined not to get)



https://www.fleetfarm.com/catalog/product_detail/sporting-goods/boating-marine/seats-accessories/swivl-eze-economy-adjustable-pedestal


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## bandgeek1263 (Jul 20, 2010)

Well, its been a while. and I have acquired a few new things, such as a free Cox Galvanixzed tilt trailer, and a free 1975 Johnson 6 horse longshaft motor. I guess people like me huh? :LOL2: 

Also, nickel plated steel piano hinge from Ace, which was much cheaper than buying offline. I don't think nickel rusts, or will have adverse affects in the future. 

Now for the motor... Trouble starting, takes a few strong pulls and playing with the choke inconsistently is what allows me to start the motor. I plan on having it worked on, AKA water pump, general maintenance, etc. 

The yolk that holds the motor to the transom bracket is bent. I have no idea how this was achieved, but it was. The motor runs but the entire thing (other than the transom bracket) is shifted about 22 degrees clockwise from a plumb axis. I don't know how I could/will fix this, but It has to get done because all the thrust created is resting on one side of the bracket and is not allowing me to change the trim. Also, would you recommend a raised transom or a short shaft conversion? It needs to be short shaft so those are my two options. Or I could possibly trade for a different motor.






The trailer: Cox tilting galvanized trailer. I'm not at all worried about the tongue length, but I am worried about the bunks. Well, not worried, just more in question. I know they need to be longer, but not quite sure. Still have to research that on this website.








As always, questions, comments, and suggestions are welcome.


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## bandgeek1263 (Jul 23, 2010)

Would anyone like to chime in with their .02 cents? Or possibly answer any of the previous questions?


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## Brine (Jul 23, 2010)

Can't help you with the motor, but I know we have a few motor gurus that will chime in if they come across your post. 

The trailer looks to be pretty short for the boat. It might just be the picture. How far does the boat overhang the trailer at the back? It looks like your bow stop will have to get moved forward quite a bit to set it up better, which would then make you worry about tongue length. 

Not sure the stipulations you have with the free motor, but it may be worth selling it to get a short shaft rather than investing in making that one work. If the motor ran great, I might feel differently. 

Either way, looks like a couple great gifts to receive.


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## bandgeek1263 (Jul 23, 2010)

Yeah, I think I might post the motor in the motors section and see about some of these guy's opinions on it. 32 inches of the boat are hanging off of the back, measured from the bunk bracket. I really am hoping that they tell me that its worth something, ad that I could possibly get a better motor for my boat.


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## Brine (Jul 23, 2010)

Yah...that's what I figured. Ideally, you want the transom of your boat close to the back of the trailer (like 6" or so) so your bunks will catch the bottom of the transom. Is it necessary??? No, but considering it was free, I'd either add 2-3 feet to the tongue, or sell it and use the money toward a different trailer.


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## bandgeek1263 (Jul 23, 2010)

Couldn't I just extend the bunks? I know its a little small, but hey, I think it'll do since it was free. I really want to make it work. 

I know the bunks are supposed to extend to the transom, but how far toward the bow do they go?


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## bandgeek1263 (Jul 27, 2010)

Little progress with the boat due to golf and an addition to our friend's barn. But, still got something done. Cut the decks, and am now tackling the wire wheel mission. I know I did this out of order, but yeah....


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## Rat (Jul 28, 2010)

You really need to extend the tongue of the trailer to get the transom on the bunks. If not you will introduce rocker into the bottom of the hull which will result in porpoising of the boat on plane. This condition is very unstable, robs performance and can cause an accident if severe enough. You want the bunks to extend to the transom or just past it (maybe a 1/2 inch or so) for good support. This ain't about how the boat looks on the trailer but avoiding potential damage to the hull bottom.


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## bandgeek1263 (Jul 28, 2010)

So extend the bunks to be flush with the transom. Because it's galvanized, would extending the tongue be more money? I'm just thinking about the welding. How far up does the boat have to be moved?


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## Rat (Jul 30, 2010)

bandgeek1263 said:


> So extend the bunks to be flush with the transom. Because it's galvanized, would extending the tongue be more money? I'm just thinking about the welding. How far up does the boat have to be moved?



No, add enough tongue extension to get the transom close tot he rear of the trailer; don't just extend the bunks back. Galvanized doesn't matter when welding, just paint it all to match or just for protection; galvanized and non-galvanized will weld up together just fine. Take a look at some of the trailer builds on this site to get a good idea of what you need to do. 

In the image below I added about three feet to the rear of my trailer as well as dding three feet to the tongue to get the hull to fit correctly. Where the bunks end is about where you want to be. The main thing is to have the weight on the transom, not the thin skinned hull bottom.


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## bandgeek1263 (Jul 30, 2010)

So, extend the tongue up about 3 feet. Then fix the bunks appropriately.

Thanks for the help


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## Brine (Jul 30, 2010)

I'd go 4ft. It will be one less foot you have to back down the ramp to load/unload. The bow stop could use some more space between it and the hitch. If you don't have considerations such as storing in a garage for clearance issues, the longer the better in my opinion.


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## bandgeek1263 (Jul 30, 2010)

Then I will just do 6 feet then, because I do agree that I need more room between the post and the hitch. Plus, it'll be possible to open the tailgate of our truck. Sound good? Will the added length aggravate the tilting feature?


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## bandgeek1263 (Jul 30, 2010)

Just kidding haha 

I'm gunna go 4 feet, I still want to be able to fit it into my garage.


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## RaisedByWolves (Oct 12, 2017)

bandgeek1263 said:


> My friend's dad is a master welder so I might have him work his TIG magic rather than brazing.




Yeah, thats how I would go about it.


Get it welded and have him leave the weld "Proud" or above the surface, then work it to shape with a file until it looks like the original rail.


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