# Evinrude 18hp Fastwin



## 68rs327 (Jul 11, 2016)

I am looking at a Evinrude 18hp Fastwin for my Jon boat project. The guy that owns it, said it's a 1968 model. 
He said he had a mechanic rebuild the carb, put in a new water pump and new fuel pump last year. He said he got it out this year and it won't start? He said he can spray carb. cleaner in it and it will spit and sputter. 
Question: 
What should I look at when buying this motor? 
What would you look at first on the spit and sputter issue? Carb rebuilt and new fuel pump on it last year... Maybe spark issue? 
Are parts readily available? 
Do the Evinrude 18hp Fastwin motors have a good reputation and are they reliable?


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## Kismet (Jul 11, 2016)

Probably...

carb wasn't done properly. Buy it and get someone else to make it happy.
Also consider some crud from disintegrating fuel line when some one used ethanol mix gas and it started eroding the line.

18hp Evinrude is one of the durable, reliable workhorses of a great line of two stroke engines and you're lucky if you can get one.



My opinion only.


Best wishes


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## gunz (Jul 11, 2016)

Not sure if the year your asking about had a pressure tank, but if it does, switch it over to a fuel pump and single line. 

I did not like my 18, was a cantankerous motor to say the least. I sent it down the road. 

I wouldn't pay more than scrap weight for a motor I couldn't hear run before hand. too much risk.


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## Steve A W (Jul 11, 2016)

That motor is a fuel pump motor, though in my opinion 
there's nothing wrong with pressure tanks. I've run many and never
had a problem.
I have a 16' jon boat and a 1957 Johnson 18hp motor.
The 18 pushes it very good and idles down to trolling 
speed just fine.
But I agree with gunz, If it won't start it is not worth a lot.
Especially if he has been using carb cleaner for starting 
fluid. That will wash all the lubricant out of a 2 stroke motor.
Try it with a squirt of oil/fuel mix in the spark plug holes.
If it starts then you know it is carb related.
Proceed with caution on this purchase.

Steve A W


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## 68rs327 (Jul 12, 2016)

The motor is a 1965, Just picked it up tonight. 
I went ahead and ordered 2 new coils and a condenser to start with. 
The motor looks decent, no broken pieces, under hood looks clean. Has a new prop and the guy thru in a gas tank and hose kit. 
I put a spark plug tester on it and I couldn't get any spark from one plug when I cranked it over. 
I'm happy with my purchase, 





Kismet said:


> Probably...
> 
> carb wasn't done properly. Buy it and get someone else to make it happy.
> Also consider some crud from disintegrating fuel line when some one used ethanol mix gas and it started eroding the line.
> ...


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## cajuncook1 (Jul 19, 2016)

- There is a process for evaluating the motor. If you are willing to take guidance we can help you out to determine what is going on with your motor. 

* First thing is to check the compression yourself. Most auto places will loan out a compression tester for a deposit and the money is refunded when you return it. Napa, Auto Zone, O'Reilys...etc.

*Here is a video to show you how you can test your compression.
*

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PyCw4SiuT2I

Please report back your finds on compression.

*
**Second phase of diagnostics is to evaluate the ignition. *



*
***Third phase of diagnostics is to evaluate the carburetor and fuel delivery.*




By putting the spark plug against the engine block is not adequate assessment of the health of the ignition system. You need to get a spark checker and gap it to at least 1/4 inch. The spark should be able to consistently jump the gap and be strong blue snapping spark.

*Here is a bunch of information that you can read and do the repairs yourself and know what is going on*.

*Here is some information that will help you evaluate your ignition system with the flywheel popped off.*


*Harmonic balance flywheel puller video*

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nz1st4XnsX4


Your going to need to inspect your point, condenser and coils. They are located under the flywheel. Hopefully all you need to do is clean and regap your points and you might be in business. Still check your coils and condensers and plug wires.






*Here are two link to show you how to test your coils and condensers.*

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KT8rk5QWgS0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6eSXYmENDY




*How to replace your coils, points and condenser.* Please take digital pictures as you go, so it will help you return everything back in the right order. Keep cheap zip lock bags available to put your parts in so you don't lose them. They are small.


Here is a diagram of a generic OMC (Johnson/Evinrudle/Gale) ignition assembly. You will have to remove the coil designated for the top cylinder and put the oil wicker in. It should be already be coated with a very light oil. (not grease). The purpose of the oil wicker is to lightly lubricate the outside riding surface of the cam so the point shoes do not prematurely wear. If you look at the points they have little shoes that ride along the cam. Please make sure the (breaker)points cam is on the correct side or the ignition will be out of timing. It should have the word [highlight]top[/highlight] machine written on the side facing up. 







FYI: You can only set(gap) one set of points at a time. Put the flywheel nut back on(turn with a wrench or ratchet clockwise) to allow you turn the crankshaft. *(Please remove both spark plugs to make it easier to turn the crankshaft and prevent accidental starting) *

You gap the point to 0.020 when the point shoes is at the top(high point of the cam). It should have a mark along with the word top. Then you will turn clockwise to the next set of point 180 degrees and set those points the same way. You will notice that the point of the previous set will be closed and when you come around again they will open up. *** When they are open no current is allow through. This is how you set your timing with the points.*** 

When you go to set the point's gap. Very gently snug the anchor screw, then adjust the gap with adjusting screw and the feeler gauge until the feeler gauge is sliding through with slight resistance only. Then tighten the anchor screw. Repeat procedure with second set of points. Please make sure your hands are clean and the feeler gauge is clean, because oil on the points can foul them up and create resistance....poor or no no spark. ALways use a spark check to evaluate spark. It should jump minimum 1/4 inch. Blue sharp snappy spark.

Here is a picture of a spark check...Cheap $6







Here is a picture of how to tell which wire is going to the correct cylinder. Thanks to Garry for providing the picture on other post.








If your using the existing wires then cut about 1/4 inch of end going the coil, so you have clean un-oxidized copper contacting the spiking in the coil. Twist the end of the spark plug wire onto the coil spike. If you have replaced the wires, make sure they are 7mm copper metal core and not the automobile stuff.

***** Please make sure two things*****

1.) Make sure all the wires are tucked away under the flywheel and not rubbing up against the cam or crank, because with will eventually get damage and create a short, then no spark!! 

2.) Make sure the coil heels (ends) are evenly lined up with the mounting boss.

Here are some pictures. (Compliments of JBJennings..nice fella)











Lining up the coil heel with the mounting boss prevent damage of the coils and the flywheel magnet, prevent rubbing as the flywheel turns.

[highlight]*** Make sure the throttle is advanced to that start position***[/highlight]


Here is another picture that Garry (thanks Garry!!) supplied on another post with some modification.







Both diagrams, should answer your questions.




Here is some you tube videos that can help you diagnosis and properly setting your ignition and clean set your carburetor


Here a bunch of videos that can help you along. They are long and detail, but I purposely made them that way, so someone new to motors would feel comfortable. So, I apologize if they are boring. I originally made those videos to help a guy who had little mechanic knowledge.

*Here is a link on how to remove a flywheel.*

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nz1st4XnsX4


*Here is a bunch of links to evaluate and repair your ignition*

If your looking for a help cleaning your points and testing your ignition, then here are some YouTube videos that can help.

Not professional videos, but they can help guide you through ignition diagnostics and repair. The motor in the video is a 1968 Johnson 6hp.

Hopefully will give you a visual and help you some.

Evinrude Gale and Johnson ignition video 1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTN8Ag_aj-8

Evinrude Gale and Johnson ignition video 2

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7A6d8me0Gw

Evinrude Gale and Johnson ignition video 3

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAlT32NnTJ0

Evinrude Gale and Johnson ignition video 4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=re6FgcB_Yok

Evinrude Gale and Johnson ignition video 5

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ClGt6xHnb94

Evinrude Gale and Johnson ignition video 6

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=taaSzp1Ev-0

Evinrude Gale and Johnson ignition video 7

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p7w0xW48YCU

*
Here is a bunch of links to help you with your carburetor.*

Here are some videos on how to clean and apply a carburetor kit for an OMC high speed fix jet carburetor. Displayed motors are 1968 Johnson 6hp and 1964 Evinrude 18hp outboards. The videos are very long and over detailed, but I want to help those who are new/novices to motor repair. Again, I am no expert or certified marine mechanic, but I am offering video to help.


OMC fix jet carburetors part 1 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7MmDOaOQyQg

OMC fix jet carburetors part 2 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PuByx8J-EfY

OMC fix jet carburetors part 3 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FpivbGEv0wM

OMC fix jet carburetors part 4 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-aWICvsQZQ8

OMC fix jet carburetors part 5 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JqB6PLqeTI4

OMC fix jet carburetors part 6 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HS5J_AxJrAY

OMC fix jet carburetors part 7 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iq_2RfWjQ28

OMC fix jet carburetors part 8 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-lXIVBX_UF4

OMC fix jet carburetors part 9 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-nA_4YmNgt8

OMC fix jet carburetors part 10 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=94lcU7y2P9Y


*Almost forgot to post an accessory video regarding a timing fixture. You can certain set the points with a feeler gauge as shown in the previous videos, but I just wanted to add this to the list*.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eNK2TEeQQv0



*Carburetor Adjustment for idle/low speed needle. * Your carburetor has a high speed fix jet, so no adjustment. It just needs to stay clean.

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently(turn in clockwise), then open 1-1/2 turns(turn out counter clockwise). Do not tighten or force the slow idle needle shut or it may damage the needle.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in (clockwise). Wait a few seconds (10 to 15 sec) for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in(clockwise), the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again (turn your throttle slightly slower) to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out(turn out counter clockwise) the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.


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## 68rs327 (Jul 19, 2016)

Cajuncook1,
Dang that's a LOT of good information..... Thank you!
I am going to try and look at the motor this weekend. 
I will let you know what I find. 
Thanks again for taking the time to post all the information!


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## FormerParatrooper (Jul 19, 2016)

I think this post by Cajun deserves to be a sticky. Excellent information.


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## Pappy (Jul 19, 2016)

Ditto on the sticky! 
Cajun probably gets tired of posting it and there is other information out there as well that I get tired of re-posting as well. 
How about it, Jim??


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## WaltR (Aug 3, 2016)

Thanks for the great post Cajun. Helped me get my Johnson FD-19 twin that I'd bought from a guy that had it in storage for 19 years going (I don't think it had ever tasted ethanol before). Rediscovered Youtube videos that I had found and lost in my research. This is my first outboard and first two stroke, so a bit of an adventure. 

One thing that got me is after started with good compression (100 psi in both cylinders), good spark, carb and intake cleaned and fuel flowing with, the darn thing still didn't want to start for me. I got it to kick and chug a bit during the rebuild process, but after double and triple checking everything, No Va until I disconnected the fuel line from the bowl. Then she kicked and sputtered a bit on the first pull and idled a bit on the second. Reconnected the fuel line, primed again and no start???? Disconnected fuel again, a little fuel drains again. Pull and easy start and runs smoothly till the bowl's empty again. Hmmmm. Reconnect, prime, pull and she runs like a champ. Has started on the first or second pull ever since. I don't get it. New tank, new fuel lines, fresh gas from the start. Shellac from the original cork float dissolved into the bowl? Anyhow makes me wonder if I could have saved myself the second round with the carb, intake manifold and magneto if I'd tried pulling the fuel line earlier. 

Any explanation of that behavior is welcome.

Still a little work to do, because it only "idles" when nearly on the Start position. If I let the throttle fall back to the idle stop, it cuts out. When I tried to adjust the idle screw, I finally broke my first fastener of the project despite generous quantities of Power Blaster. The spring was almost already fully compressed with about 1/8" gap between the stop and the lowest throttle position before the engine would cut out. Since I can't seem to find the idle RPM in the service manual, I'm not sure what the idle target should be. Runs nice and smooth at the Start stop in neutral. Tempted to just stick a bit of 1/4" fuel line over the stop peg to fill the gap and be done with it, since it seems to run fine at all other throttle positions.

Any suggestions as to how to move forward? Is there a simple throttle cable adjustment? I haven't found one in the PDF copy of the multi-year, multi-model Johnson Service Manual I found.

Thanks


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