# Upgrade passive livewell help



## llbaker2 (Jul 20, 2018)

I recently bought my first boat. I got an aluminum 1752 flat bottom side console jon (Blazer Jet boat). Boat has two livewells, one under passenger and one under helm seats. Livewells don’t have any kind of pump/aerator. They have a single standpipe in the center of each tank. Has a plug that you can insert into pipe to block flow. Wells do not have any kind of pump or aerator. Seems like water would get hot and low on oxygen after a while. Guess you could pour a bucket full of water into wells every once in a while to refresh but was thinking might be better to upgrade and add a pump and timer and/or an aerator. Looking for guidance on how to go about doing this. Do you just insert a pump into the standpipe and put pump on timer or what? If you insert pump into standpipe how does the well drain? Lots of info on how to replace existing pumps etc. but can’t find much on how to upgrade a simple gravity fed passive well to one with pump and timer. Heck I don’t know if this is even worth the effort. Seems like it would be good to pump fresh water into well every few min to control temp and aeration. Would appreciate your input.


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## onthewater102 (Jul 20, 2018)

I'm not quite visualizing what your setup looks like, but if I understand it doesn't have a drain line connected to below the waterline of the boat?

Normally livewells have a drain that can be plugged (or closed remotely) but otherwise allows the livewell to fill to the level of the water displaced by the boat and at least one pump to draw water into the livewell, possibly a second to aerate the water within the livewell. There is usually an overflow drain toward the top to allow the pump to cycle every so often with the drain plug inserted in order to cycle/cool/aerate the water.


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## Scott F (Jul 20, 2018)

There are several YouTube videos about putting livewells in boats. Maybe something there will help you.


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## llbaker2 (Jul 22, 2018)

onthewater102 said:


> I'm not quite visualizing what your setup looks like, but if I understand it doesn't have a drain line connected to below the waterline of the boat?
> 
> Normally livewells have a drain that can be plugged (or closed remotely) but otherwise allows the livewell to fill to the level of the water displaced by the boat and at least one pump to draw water into the livewell, possibly a second to aerate the water within the livewell. There is usually an overflow drain toward the top to allow the pump to cycle every so often with the drain plug inserted in order to cycle/cool/aerate the water.




As I said above my well has a single inlet/outlet with plug, a short tube (3/4 inch?) located at bottom center. Tube exits thru bottom of boat. There are no other openings other than the lid. It fills to level of displaced water when you pull the plug. There are no pumps/aerators or overflow drains. There in lies the problem. I would like to add a pump/timer to add fresh water every so often. Picture of well with standpipe below.


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## richg99 (Jul 22, 2018)

I am not sure how this will work with your configuration...but.

I belong to our local bass club. It is a group of 25/40 old guys and we fish the small lakes within our subdivision. In order to compete in the club tournaments, I needed a live well in my tinny. I never before owned a live-well equipped boat. 

I took a large Walmart plastic container. it is about 24 inches by 30 inches by 18 inches high. I did not want to drill any holes in my boat. 

On a trip with a striper guide a few years ago, I noted that his large live well was not really connected to the boat except at the floor. He filled, and emptied, his live well with a large bilge pump. I use an 1100 GPH pump. He attached a large PVC tube. His pump was wired into a switch controlled outlet. 

To put water INTO the live-well, I drop the pump overboard and flip on the switch. The pump transfers water from the lake to the live well using its hose. When I want to EMPTY the live well, I hang the hose over the side and turn on the switch. The pump stays in the live well and pumps 98% of the water back over the side.

When I have fish in the live well, I just leave the pump on the bottom and run the pump, which acts as a re-circulating pump. I added a $10.00 battery operated aerator. When I start in the morning of a tournament, I fill the live well about half full. I add a bag of ice, being careful to NOT cut the bag open. I don't want the chlorine water to mix with the lake water. The frozen bag of ice keeps the water cool but doesn't dilute or poison the live well water.

If we catch more fish, I add water one more time.

That's it. If you check the internet, you will find a number of pro fishermen who caution to NOT add much additional lake water during the day. That water is warmer than the water you have in the well and defeats the purpose of the ice.

Hope this helps.
rich


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## thedude (Jul 22, 2018)

Is the well right on front of your console? If so drill a hole between the console and the well to run power to a bilge pump (any basic switch will work). Connect the bilge to a hose and attach the hose to a one foot PVC pipe with holes drilled in it. Install the PVC pipe at the top of the well on the console wall. As long as the pipe is above the natural level of the well it will aerate the water.


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## thedude (Jul 22, 2018)

Pic With a bait bucket. Cheap way to separate the livewell if large enough.


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## llbaker2 (Jul 23, 2018)

thedude said:


> Is the well right on front of your console? If so drill a hole between the console and the well to run power to a bilge pump (any basic switch will work). Connect the bilge to a hose and attach the hose to a one foot PVC pipe with holes drilled in it. Install the PVC pipe at the top of the well on the console wall. As long as the pipe is above the natural level of the well it will aerate the water.



Sounds like a solid plan for aerating but on a hot summer day seems like it would be good to pump fresh water into livewell every once in a while to keep water temp down. Not sure how well that would work anyway due to high temp of surface water. Just a thought.


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## llbaker2 (Jul 23, 2018)

richg99 said:


> I am not sure how this will work with your configuration...but.
> 
> I belong to our local bass club. It is a group of 25/40 old guys and we fish the small lakes within our subdivision. In order to compete in the club tournaments, I needed a live well in my tinny. I never before owned a live-well equipped boat.
> 
> ...



Your bilge pump idea sure beats my current bucket method (bail out about 1/2 to 3/4 of well water and refill with bails of fresh lake water every once in a while).


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## llbaker2 (Jul 23, 2018)

My livewell fills by removing drain plug from 2 inch tall, 3/4 inch diameter pipe (not sure if its the right term but lets call it a standpipe) that extends thru bottom of boat (see pic above). When you remove the pug the well fills with water to level equal to water level outside of boat. My question is what happens to livewell water level when boat is on plane? Seems like (since boat is higher out of water when planing) that the water level would drop (unless you plugged the standpipe before going on plane). If this is the case then all you would have to do is get boat up on plane for a little while to drain old water and then when you come off plane the well would fill back up. Is this the way it works or am I missing something? Just trying to figure this out. Guess I could test it out and see what happens. Debating adding a pump/aerator.


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## richg99 (Jul 23, 2018)

Aerator...As I mentioned above, I added a cheap battery operated "bubble/aerator."

It just hangs over the side of my container. The batteries have lasted through three... five-hour tournaments so far.

It's got to help. I haven't lost a fish since adding it.

https://www.cabelas.com/product/Marine-Metal-Products-Bubble-Box/738120.uts?productVariantId=1189075&WT.tsrc=PPC&WT.mc_id=GoogleProductAds&WT.z_mc_id1=00004123&rid=20&ds_rl=1252079&gclid=CjwKCAjw-dXaBRAEEiwAbwCi5l9mTOkdy4dzpfczeQf8JMKIicM--xCJCDZNBLlwkWIdUoitiaReZRoCgu0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds


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## eshaw (Jul 23, 2018)

Instead of plugging and unplugging your inlet for water you could install a shut off valve. I'm lucky, my boat is big enough to just stick my portable one in it. I built a portable one so I can also stick it in the back of my truck.


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## thedude (Jul 23, 2018)

llbaker2 said:


> thedude said:
> 
> 
> > Is the well right on front of your console? If so drill a hole between the console and the well to run power to a bilge pump (any basic switch will work). Connect the bilge to a hose and attach the hose to a one foot PVC pipe with holes drilled in it. Install the PVC pipe at the top of the well on the console wall. As long as the pipe is above the natural level of the well it will aerate the water.
> ...


Freeze a few plastic water bottles and throw one in every hour of so. What exactly are you trying to keep alive? tournament fish? Long enough to decide if you caught enough fish to clean/eat? Minnows or shad?


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## eshaw (Jul 23, 2018)

I'd like to know how to keep shad alive.


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## onthewater102 (Jul 23, 2018)

That tube sticks up 2" off the bottom of the livewell? Is the diameter the same in the tube the whole way down? That tube shouldn't protrude above the bottom of the bait tank by any meaningful amount, there js no way for the tank to drain, let alone cycle water. Who built the boat?


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## handyandy (Jul 25, 2018)

just leave the plug out water will should come in while on plane from the hole catching some of the water as it goes by. Then when at rest water will kind of come in and out of ti as the bot rocks and moves. Leave the plug out and see what it does without the plug in, just leave the lid open watch the water level while on plane with the plug out. 

This video explains the idea more, and he takes his passive livewell a step further with more holes a slight angles.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rl2ucnabA9k


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## llbaker2 (Jul 25, 2018)

onthewater102 said:


> That tube sticks up 2" off the bottom of the livewell? Is the diameter the same in the tube the whole way down? That tube shouldn't protrude above the bottom of the bait tank by any meaningful amount, there js no way for the tank to drain, let alone cycle water. Who built the boat?



Yes the tube is the same diameter for its entire length. You are correct that the well does not drain below the top of the tube. I've been using a manual bilge pump (that's for pumping water out of the bottom of a canoe) to get most of water out and a sponge to get the last 1/8 inch. The boat is a Standard 1752 Blazer. Bought it new from Troutt and Sons. in St James MO.


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## thedude (Jul 25, 2018)

eshaw said:


> I'd like to know how to keep shad alive.


It's a myth! Not possible!


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## llbaker2 (Jul 25, 2018)

handyandy said:


> just leave the plug out water will should come in while on plane from the hole catching some of the water as it goes by. Then when at rest water will kind of come in and out of ti as the bot rocks and moves. Leave the plug out and see what it does without the plug in, just leave the lid open watch the water level while on plane with the plug out.
> 
> This video explains the idea more, and he takes his passive livewell a step further with more holes a slight angles.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rl2ucnabA9k



The video is basically the same setup/idea as my livewells except I just have one 3/4 inch hole in center of well. Still seems to me that since the boat is riding higher when planing that the level would drop at least partially and then refill when not planing. Guess they used a two inch standpipe to prevent all the water from draining out when on plane. Guess if I put minnows in well I will need to put some sort of screen over pipe end or use a perforated bucket or I will lose some of them out the pipe opening. Like you said I guess I need to leave hatch open and watch water level when planing and when off plane to see if it is doing what I think. Should be easy enough to do. Have one tank under helm and one under passenger seat. Can just leave passenger seat lid open when underway so can watch it. Guess I got confused because I've read about how most livewells have pumps and aerators when mine doesn't. Guess I will just go with it and see how how well it works. See how long fish stay alive.


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## onthewater102 (Jul 26, 2018)

If the ID is consistent the whole way down then you should be able to cut the tube flush with the bottom of the well and use it as a drain with your plug. 

I don't believe they'd do this intentionally as the standing water in that cavity would freeze anywhere in the northern 2/3 of the US and blow the sides of the tank open. It was probably an oversight by the builder that they didn't trim it down after installing and welding it in.

All you'll need to do then is add an aerator pump to the hull and tap into the tank to feed it water.


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## handyandy (Jul 31, 2018)

llbaker2 said:


> handyandy said:
> 
> 
> > just leave the plug out water will should come in while on plane from the hole catching some of the water as it goes by. Then when at rest water will kind of come in and out of ti as the bot rocks and moves. Leave the plug out and see what it does without the plug in, just leave the lid open watch the water level while on plane with the plug out.
> ...



I'd do the easiest thing first which is just try it and see what it does not like you have anything to lose doing that.


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## Riverdog (Aug 8, 2018)

I have that exact setup. I use one for dry storage and the other one for fish. When sitting, leave the plug out. As you walk around the boat the water will go in and out of that hole. You can exaggerate that affect by standing on one side and then going to the other side. When underway the water will completely be sucked out of that hole. At least to the depth of the bunghole. While fishing I will leave the bunghole open and then plug it back up when I'm fixing to move again. Haven't lost a fish yet. when I'm putting the boat up for the week, I'll use a manual pump to finish draining the water. Leave it cracked open and let evaporation do the rest. Otherwise trapped moisture will do what it does.
Aluminum is a great conductor and will act like a giant water cooled heat sink. As long as you are in the water heat shouldn't be much of a problem. Especially if you leave the plug out.

FYI Go under your boat and measure how close that plug comes to the bottom. Mine is only 3/4 of and inch from the bottom. If you cut the bunghole off, that plug will protrude from the bottom.


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## archery68 (Aug 19, 2018)

Riverdog said:


> I have that exact setup. I use one for dry storage and the other one for fish. When sitting, leave the plug out. As you walk around the boat the water will go in and out of that hole. You can exaggerate that affect by standing on one side and then going to the other side. When underway the water will completely be sucked out of that hole. At least to the depth of the bunghole. While fishing I will leave the bunghole open and then plug it back up when I'm fixing to move again. Haven't lost a fish yet. when I'm putting the boat up for the week, I'll use a manual pump to finish draining the water. Leave it cracked open and let evaporation do the rest. Otherwise trapped moisture will do what it does.
> Aluminum is a great conductor and will act like a giant water cooled heat sink. As long as you are in the water heat shouldn't be much of a problem. Especially if you leave the plug out.
> 
> FYI Go under your boat and measure how close that plug comes to the bottom. Mine is only 3/4 of and inch from the bottom. If you cut the bunghole off, that plug will protrude from the bottom.


What riverdog said!!!! I have two livewells under rear seats in my tiller jet boat. When I start catching keepers, pull the plugs and throw the fish in. If I move to another spot to fish that’s a ways, I will put the plug back in for the move then pull it when I stop. Never lose any fish. When fishing, enough fresh water comes in for the fish. This type of livewell setup is typical on jet boats here in Missouri. I’m on my fourth jet boat and use it a lot in the spring for crappie and white bass, have never needed an aerated live well. When I get home, I clean the fish then pull the plug and have a hand pump and sponge to get all the water out. Leave the lid open and next time I fish, no moisture and no smell. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## archery68 (Aug 19, 2018)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## earl60446 (Aug 20, 2018)

llbaker2 said:


> My livewell fills by removing drain plug from 2 inch tall, 3/4 inch diameter pipe (not sure if its the right term but lets call it a standpipe) that extends thru bottom of boat (see pic above). When you remove the pug the well fills with water to level equal to water level outside of boat. My question is what happens to livewell water level when boat is on plane? Seems like (since boat is higher out of water when planing) that the water level would drop (unless you plugged the standpipe before going on plane). If this is the case then all you would have to do is get boat up on plane for a little while to drain old water and then when you come off plane the well would fill back up. Is this the way it works or am I missing something? Just trying to figure this out. Guess I could test it out and see what happens. Debating adding a pump/aerator.



Be careful running the boat on plane (or any accelerated speed) with the drain unplugged. The hole at the bottom of the boat may get water forced into it by being on plane and next thing you know, you got an overflowing livewell. Saw this happen on a buddys baitwells, large 22ft fiberglass boat with above waterline drains. BTW, i understand defective plumbing on boats, livewells, washdowns and other things are the number 1 cause of boats sinking.

Tim


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## Riverdog (Aug 22, 2018)

archery68 said:


> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I'm not a big fan of lime green, but your boat looks awesome with that color.



> The hole at the bottom of the boat may get water forced into it by being on plane and next thing you know, you got an overflowing livewell. Saw this happen on a buddys baitwells, large 22ft fiberglass boat with above waterline drains. BTW, i understand defective plumbing on boats, livewells, washdowns and other things are the number 1 cause of boats sinking.




I know mine sucks the water out. I wonder what makes the diverence? I know on the blazers, the drain is low and just rear of the center. I'm guessing the ones that push the water in are at the rear, maybe???


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## richg99 (Aug 22, 2018)

I know next to nothing about livewells...however, I have observed a number of them that have a "standpipe" screwed into the bottom drain.

Way back when I had a house with a basement, and basements in that area were known to occasionally flood....nearly every house had a five-foot standpipe near the floor drain. When we thought the rains were threatening, we screwed the standpipe into the drain. 

When the outside water levels got too high, the water would rise up into the uncapped standpipe, rather than spilling out onto the basement floor. 

I imagine that the Livewell "standpipes" that I saw did the same... The outside levels and pressures pushed water up the uncapped standpipe, but not out into the well unless you wanted it there. 

Of course, too high of speed would push water all of the way out, so removing the "standpipe" and plugging the well was done when more speeds was added.


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