# Any input about topping trailer bunk boards with PVC pipe???



## G Lap (Nov 5, 2011)

Someone here mentioned using SCH40 PVC cut and attached to the top of the bunks. I am thinking about trying this to see how it works. My boat is a 1648 Semi Vee, the bunk boards on the trailer are 2 X 4s positioned on end (narrow side contacting the boat). Seems like a 2" SCH40 PVC with a section cut out of it should snap right on top. Then it could be attached on the sides to the bunk with screws, or long narrow bolts going all the way through wood and PVC. Might possibly be able to cut one in half and use it on both, as long as it extends far enough down on the bunk to use fasteners. An angle grinder with a cut off wheel makes easy work out of slicing a length of PVC. 

I am slightly concerned that such a small surface area contacting the boat might make it too slick. I normally fish by myself, and was wondering if the PVC wouldn't sufficiently grip the boat after trailering it, to allow me to walk to the front and climb out without the boat sliding back in the water. I was also wondering if such a small contact area would cause too much pressure per square inch in the bottom of the boat and dent or damage it. Over time, I wonder if the PVC would eventually wear grooves in the aluminum on the boat?

*Any of you using PVC pipe on top your bunks? *


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## Bhockins (Nov 5, 2011)

Not sure what you're trying to accomplish. Can you describe what problem you're trying to solve?


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## crazymanme2 (Nov 5, 2011)

I think with the PVC on your bunks, when you go to get out, your boat will slide back as soon as you turn your motor off,depending how steep the ramp is.


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## nomowork (Nov 7, 2011)

If money is an issue I can understand. There are bunk slides made out of plastic materials that are flat and screw over the existing carpet. They are very reasonable especially for shorter bunks like tin boats. I plan to get those after my "new" carpets are worn down.


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## rusty.hook (Nov 8, 2011)

I have noticed on this forum, some people are buying plastic cutting boards and then cutting then into strips to add the the bunks.


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## FishingCop (Nov 9, 2011)

do a search on bunk boards and you find lots of previous posts about this topic.....


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## richg99 (Nov 9, 2011)

I agree with the comments about the boat sliding back. I also think that the tiny rounded surface would probably dent the boat. 

I put flat pvc lattice strips on a number of boats. 

If you were concerned about slipping back...whether your slider was round pvc or flat pvc....you could simply put pvc on the last half of the bunks. The carpet on the front will hold the boat when you get it up there...but the pvc on the stern portion will allow you to launch and recover the boat more easily.

regards, Rich


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## Jdholmes (Nov 10, 2011)

Maybe I am missing something being new to boating, but shouldn't your winch hold it from sliding back?


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## G Lap (Nov 10, 2011)

richg99 said:


> I agree with the comments about the boat sliding back. I also think that the tiny rounded surface would probably dent the boat.
> 
> I put flat pvc lattice strips on a number of boats.
> 
> ...



Rich,
Maybe that is the way to go. My goal is to make loading / unloading easier, but because I fish by myself mostly I dont want the boat sliding back in the water. Just using plastic on half the bunks might be just right.

Did you notice if the plastic has scratched up the bottom of your boat?


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## richg99 (Nov 10, 2011)

re "scratched up the bottom" I haven't looked. Can't be worse than sliding her over oyster reefs though. Be certain to counter-sink the SS screws.

I used the whole bunk and covered it with PVC lattice from Home Depot. Most of my ramps have been pretty flat. If I had to use steep ramps, then I would start by putting the PVC on just the back half. You can always add it to the front later. 
regards, Rich

p.s. re the comment "won't the winch hold it?" Yes, the winch will, but..... there is a minute or so when you power the boat up the trailer bunks and have to go forward to hitch up the winch. 

I had my boat slide back down on one occasion. If the ramp is steep, or the current is heavy..sliding back can be an issue. Someone makes a device that LOCKS ON when you hit the snap. That would work. Some guys leave the motor on....powering the boat forward, while they run forward to hitch up the winch. That was my solution on the one occasion when I had the problem. RG


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## richg99 (Nov 10, 2011)

For the boater who has too much money....

Remote control launcher and recovering system. I have NO IDEA how much it costs!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gV2BorhngGQ


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## gillhunter (Nov 11, 2011)

richg99 said:


> For the boater who has too much money....
> 
> Remote control launcher and recovering system. I have NO IDEA how much it costs!
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gV2BorhngGQ



It couldn't be nearly as expense as my "boat launcher and recovery system" 

The wife. :LOL2:


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## 01SOONER10 (Jan 3, 2012)

I screwed Polly pipe down on my bunks and they work great! Its slick as snot, but when I load my boat, I just pull all the way up, leave boat in gear with just enough gas to keep pressure then walk to front and attach hook!


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## wihil (Jan 8, 2012)

I put PVC pipe on my bunks also - the trailer was originally set up for 2x4's set on edge, and they had rotted out long before I got the boat/trailer (unfortunately the previous owner used copper pressure treated boards, so now I get to deal with pitting). My boat is only 12' and just over 100#'s, so I'm not worried about support.

As I had to redo the entire bunk setup, I went with 3" PVC split twice on the table saw a the width of a 2x4 on edge. It snapped right onto the new pressure treated boards and is held on with a couple deck screws from the lower side. It added maybe an additional .25" in height, and the rounded profile makes great contact all the way down it's 5' length. Loading/unloading is a snap, and it doesn't trap water like the old carpet. 

I usually load and unload fairly deep in the ramp, so just a nudge gets her in the water and a tug gets her back into the forward roller.

If it doesn't work out, I'll put a small chunk of carpet about 2' from the back to make a "break" of sorts.


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