# guide posts vs. guide boards



## pafree (Oct 17, 2013)

my boat is a little wide for the trailer so i want to add guides for put the boat on the trailer. i have had a trailer with POSTS in the past but my son was loading the boat on the trailer in a strong cross wind and the boat kept twisting around the post and even broke one off one time. i am leaning towards the guide boards but wanted opinions. any homemade versions with big box supplies? it will be used in salt so gotta go galvanized.


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## FerrisBueller (Oct 18, 2013)

I think it depends on how deep you need to be in order to load your boat. For my trailer I installed guide posts and they have made loading 10x easier. Guide boards for me would be too low, I think the boat could drift/get caught up on a board because I need to get my trailer somewhat deep for easier loading. Even when somewhat deep the posts still are high enough to guide my boat on and I can get the boat far enough up before having to winch, and the posts keep it aligned right on the keel rollers.

I also like the posts because they make it easier to see the trailer when backing up.


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## thegr8cody (Oct 19, 2013)

My boat came with guide boards but I installed the posts just so I could see backing up. I love the guide boards and they take abuse better than the posts. I would use both. Next trailer im doing boards and posts again


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## pafree (Oct 19, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=332415#p332415 said:


> thegr8cody » 19 Oct 2013, 08:41[/url]"] I would use both. Next trailer im doing boards and posts again



i like the ideal of both. most of the places i go have boat ramps that are not steap angled but there is a couple of places that are like canal bank off loading and loading.


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## JMichael (Oct 19, 2013)

I agree with using both. My current trailer has side boards, and the rear post for the sideboard extends higher in order to provide a mount for the tail light and keep it out of the water (no more blown bulbs or having to worry about unplugging the trailer) when I load/launch. 






The yellow marker lights attached to the back side of the tail lights simplifies the task of backing the trailer up in the dark.


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## Ranchero50 (Oct 19, 2013)

Here's a set I welded up for my buddy's 116 Cherokee with a 90/65 jet after he took out his fender.

As designed, the boards stay @ 1" off the hull when it's on the trailer. The bottom bunks sandwich the bottom strakes so the hull self centers. The side boards are just to help with low speed maneuvering. Be sure to build your structure in relation to your hull weight. This boat is a tank so everything was beefed up.


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## pafree (Oct 21, 2013)

this is my boat and you can see how it sits wide on the trailer. i wouldn't mind looking for a wider trailer but i like how this one pulls and it carries the boat great. i like the ideals you have shown me and i have seen how the store bought ones go on a trailer and had a ideal.






here is the ideal i came up with you advise. right now the trailer uses PVC for bunk and i know there pros and cons with saltwater usage. if i made some large U shaped pieces and u-bolted them to the trailer and then connected the two U's with PVC or guide boards. i could put PVC over the poles from the guides down to the trailer.





my question is what material for salt: chain link fence top poles, EMT, steel that is painted really good, maybe powder coat or see about getting the steel galvanized after contruction?


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## nbaffaro (Oct 21, 2013)

I know you don't want to hear this but if you want galvanized just buying a set that was made for what you want to do is going to be the easiest solution. If your going to make something I wouldn't even worry about galvanized. It'll just drive the cost up to the point you could just buy the ready made pieces. 


Wait? Your boat is on round PVC bunk boards(tubes)?


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