# Marine vinyl - costs, installation quirks, costs, etc. ?



## DaveInGA (May 6, 2012)

After looking at the various options, I'm looking real strongly at using marine vinyl as my flooring in my boat. In particular, I think I want to use Nautolex brand, but would consider other brands and want to hear about them if anyone knows of another brand that's out there. I've already ruled out carpet and most roll on and spray-in "bedliner" type coatings.

I'm mostly concerned with what glues one must have to glue these in and if there's a less expensive alternative, as a gallon of the adhesive seems to run to about half to a third the cost of the vinyl.

So if you have any information related to marine vinyl, it's installation, tricks, tips, etc. or information on the glues needed to install, please help me out.

Thank you for your help,


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## jigngrub (May 6, 2012)

I went from carpet to vinyl last fall in my Tracker:

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=21629

As for cost, the best price I could find online was here:
https://www.defender.com/category.jsp?path=-1%7C10918%7C311409&id=311410

Installation quirks, there's a few.

1. The difference in the thickness of carpet and vinyl will affect your opening and deck size, it'll make your openings bigger than they need to be and your deck pieces a little smaller if you use your old plywood decking for templates. I got around this by using firring strips of wood to make my openings smaller and deck pieces larger.

I installed aluminum angle on my hatch covers as trim to hide some of the gap. I installed the angle on my hatch covers and with counter sunk closed end blind rivets on 4" centers. Closed end blind rivets are much stronger than the open end rivets.

I used the Nautolex 88 adhesive for my larger pieces because it is a more forgiving adhesive because the bond isn't instant like contact cement. The 88 adhesive is water based and is a much slower cure and bond and requires the edges to be wrapped around to the back of the deck piece and stapled. there's no need to staple with contact cement.

With experience and hindsight, I'd have used contact cement for everything if I knew then what I know now. I you choose to go with contact cement start with your smaller pieces first so you can get the "feel" for how you have to work with it.

Proper tools are a must for a good vinyl job. You will need a hand held carpet roller and a laminate roller to remove any air bubbles under the vinyl and to embed the vinyl into the adhesive on either adhesive you choose.





These tools can be purchased at Home Depot or Lowes.

I covered all of my deck pieces individually and then fastened each piece to the deck framing with rivets. I did this so I could remove all or some of my decking without ruining my vinyl, and all I'll have to do is rerivet the decking down when I put the boat back together. Anyone that owns an aluminum boat should realize that you *will probably* have to get below deck sometime in the future for something (repairs or modifications).

If you have any questions, feel free to ask.


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## DaveInGA (May 6, 2012)

jigngrub,

I quoted you and posted some response/questions in red in the quote. Thank you for posting. The information helps a lot.



jigngrub said:


> I went from carpet to vinyl last fall in my Tracker:
> 
> https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=21629
> 
> ...



Thanks for your help,


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## Kismet (May 6, 2012)

You guys got me looking. Found this site and a list of folks who make variations.

Anyone ever use it? The cork one looks kinda neat. Site seems to be for BIG boats. 

Opinions?

https://www.myboatsgear.com/featured_product/synthetic%20decking.asp


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## jigngrub (May 6, 2012)

DaveInGA said:


> jigngrub,
> 
> I quoted you and posted some response/questions in red in the quote. Thank you for posting. The information helps a lot.
> 
> ...



My answers are in bold after your red questions.

Theres no need to staple if you use the contact cement, if you decide on the Nautolex 88 you can tape the edges to hold them on your aluminum instead of stapling.


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## jigngrub (May 6, 2012)

Kismet said:


> You guys got me looking. Found this site and a list of folks who make variations.
> 
> Anyone ever use it? The cork one looks kinda neat. Site seems to be for BIG boats.
> 
> ...



Get us a price on that fancy stuff and let's see how much it is Kiz.


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## DaveInGA (May 6, 2012)

Jigngrub,

I quoted your quote and posted some additional response/questions in blue below. Thank you for answering. The additional information helps a lot. The contact cement you recommend is also cheaper than the Natolex brand.



jigngrub said:


> I went from carpet to vinyl last fall in my Tracker:
> 
> https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=21629
> 
> ...


 *Weldwood in the metal can*
Great, that stuff is available everywhere.

Theres no need to staple if you use the contact cement, if you decide on the Nautolex 88 you can tape the edges to hold them on your aluminum instead of stapling.
Either of which is a good solution. I think I'm going for the contact cement though, unless you can tell me a reason not to.[/quote]

Thanks again,


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## Gramps50 (May 6, 2012)

The pictures of the finished tin look good. Wouldn't having vinyl on the floor be slick when It got wet? Also wouldn't it be hotter on the feet than carpet?


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## jigngrub (May 6, 2012)

Gramps50 said:


> The pictures of the finished tin look good. Wouldn't having vinyl on the floor be slick when It got wet? Also wouldn't it be hotter on the feet than carpet?



This isn't your household kitchen and bathroom floor vinyl, it's a textured vinyl that's very slip resistant... as a matter of fact it can be considered abrasive. If you ball up your fist and press your knuckles against my vinyl deck and then drag them quickly across it you will have skinned knuckles that will bleed. It's a smoothe pebble grain to the light touch, but abrasive under pressure.

I have the light storm gray in my boat and it isn't any hotter than carpet of the same color.


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## bcbouy (May 6, 2012)

i used sundeck vinyl on my low deck,it stays cool all day in the sun,its grey and white. also no slip when its wet or slimy


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## Gramps50 (May 6, 2012)

From looking at how ,my carpeting is wearing already (I think it's from Lowes) I guess it will need to be replace by the end of the season. I like the vinyl idea. How does it handle hooks, I know it's pretty easy to get snagged in the carpet that I have.

I requested some samples to see what it looks like.

It's amazing what you learn reading these forums.

Thanks guys


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## jigngrub (May 7, 2012)

Gramps50 said:


> From looking at how ,my carpeting is wearing already (I think it's from Lowes) I guess it will need to be replace by the end of the season. I like the vinyl idea. How does it handle hooks, I know it's pretty easy to get snagged in the carpet that I have.
> 
> I requested some samples to see what it looks like.
> 
> ...



Hooks don't snag in vinyl, this isn't a cushiony vinyl. This is a hard surface vinyl, the finish is just as hard as the plywood beneath it.

I suggest gluing your samples to a piece of plywood when you get them so you can feel the finished product.


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## Dman23 (May 9, 2012)

I have seen a lot of bew boats are coming with vinyl. A lot of them have carpeted decks and vinyl on the main floor with carpet on top of all the cabnets etc... I like the "two tone" look of that and gives a lot of the boat the softer feel with the hard traffic areas the ease of cleaning. 

I know nothing about installing it though. I went with carpet for the homey feeling of it. Maybe the next one ill do the carpet/vinyl someday.


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## Bugpac (May 10, 2012)

we had a member last yr do a hook test on some deco dot flooring. 

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=17685&hilit=vinyl+flooring&start=15


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## kofkorn (May 10, 2012)

I used the Nautolex Vinyl on my build over the winter. Link here: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=22554&start=120.

I love the final look and effect. I used the nautolex 88 and had very good results with. I used the 3m Super 90 spray can to hold the edges down I wouldn't suggest this to someone else doing it. I've had some issues with some of the wrapped edges coming unglued from the aluminum. Seems to be an issue with the adhesion of the Super 90 with the aluminum. Luckily, the areas that I can see the separation are accessible and can be redone later, the other areas aren't visible and are mostly mechanically trapped as well.

I used a rolling pin instead of the fancy carpet rollers. Worked just as well in my opinion. 

I'm glad to answer any questions you might have. There's tons of info in my build thread though.

Good luck!


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## Gramps50 (May 10, 2012)

Got some Nautolex samples in the mail today. Now I see why it isn't slick when wet. Has a nice texture to it. I have yet to put it down on the floor and walk in it but just feeling it doesn't appear that it would be hard on the bare feet. 

I think I will seriously consider using it when it's time to replace the carpet.


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## DaveInGA (May 10, 2012)

kofkorn said:


> I used the Nautolex Vinyl on my build over the winter. Link here: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=22554&start=120.
> 
> I love the final look and effect. I used the nautolex 88 and had very good results with. I used the 3m Super 90 spray can to hold the edges down I wouldn't suggest this to someone else doing it. I've had some issues with some of the wrapped edges coming unglued from the aluminum. Seems to be an issue with the adhesion of the Super 90 with the aluminum. Luckily, the areas that I can see the separation are accessible and can be redone later, the other areas aren't visible and are mostly mechanically trapped as well.
> 
> ...



Thank you for posting a link to your thread. Gave me lots of ideas and I saw a lot of similarities in your boat and mine, both of them being Trackers. I'm sure I'll have some questions in the future about the nautolex. Based on your build, I'm leaning now towards 11 yards or 33 feet of vinyl.

As far as glue, I'm thinking more along the lines of contact cement. The nautolex glue is expensive, isn't available locally and extremely slow to dry. I don't think I have the patience to use it, especially when jigngrub has had good success with the contact cement that's available locally and cheaper.


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## jigngrub (May 10, 2012)

DaveInGA said:


> kofkorn said:
> 
> 
> > I used the Nautolex Vinyl on my build over the winter. Link here: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=22554&start=120.
> ...



Just remember, *2 coats of contact cement on the vinyl*. I'm pretty sure that was Kofkorns problem with the contact cement, only one coat of CC won't work because the vinyl backing absorbs it.

You should also scuff your aluminum up with a wire brush in a grinder or even a Scotchbrite pad and soap and water before applying adhesive so it'll have something to grip. Adhesives don't like to stick to slick shiny surfaces.


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## DaveInGA (May 10, 2012)

jigngrub said:


> Just remember, *2 coats of contact cement on the vinyl*. I'm pretty sure that was Kofkorns problem with the contact cement, only one coat of CC won't work because the vinyl backing absorbs it.
> 
> You should also scuff your aluminum up with a wire brush in a grinder or even a Scotchbrite pad and soap and water before applying adhesive so it'll have something to grip. Adhesives don't like to stick to slick shiny surfaces.


You might want to check out my rebuild thread. I don't think I'm going to have a problem with any slick shiny surfaces on my boat. :lol:


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## Bugpac (May 11, 2012)

Here is a question for those that have done it. If you were to vinyl a flat surface, say a hatch lid, without folding any edges, and running a razor knife tight to the edge to trim. What do you think the outcome would be, Good, bad or ugly? I'm giving vinyl some serious thought, But I do not want to wrap.


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## jigngrub (May 11, 2012)

Bugpac said:


> Here is a question for those that have done it. If you were to vinyl a flat surface, say a hatch lid, without folding any edges, and running a razor knife tight to the edge to trim. What do you think the outcome would be, Good, bad or ugly? I'm giving vinyl some serious thought, But I do not want to wrap.



It might look ok, if you can trim a very straight line. You want to cut your piece to size using a straight edge and then install it instead.

You'll definitly need to use the contact cement for this application.


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## kofkorn (May 11, 2012)

I think that it would look ok, your going to have interesting details around the edges of your covers as the corners of the aluminum will show. My main concern would be how it will hold up in a year or two. I think one of the big benefits of wrapping the edges is that it doesn't leave any corners or edges to peel. I don't know of any adhesive that will prevent corners from peeling if they are not protected. 

I actually had a few un-wrapped edges next to the cover hinges. I didn't actually use the spray adhesive there, I ended up putting down a bead of 5200 and pressing the vinyl into it. I like the result so far, with no issues of anything coming up. However, the hinge sits a bit higher than the edge of the vinyl, so it is slightly protected.

If you try it, let us know how it works out.


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## Bugpac (May 11, 2012)

jigngrub said:


> Bugpac said:
> 
> 
> > Here is a question for those that have done it. If you were to vinyl a flat surface, say a hatch lid, without folding any edges, and running a razor knife tight to the edge to trim. What do you think the outcome would be, Good, bad or ugly? I'm giving vinyl some serious thought, But I do not want to wrap.
> ...




Why the contact cement? Is it bullet proof, vs the 89.00 glue they sell with the vinyl? I actually like the mari deck much more than the nautolex, the nautolex looks to much like carpet.

https://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=MariDeck-Vinyl-Floor-Covering-6-Wide&i=76084&aID=601E3&merchID=4006&s_kwcid=adwords_marideck_vinyl_flooring


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## jigngrub (May 11, 2012)

Bugpac said:


> jigngrub said:
> 
> 
> > Bugpac said:
> ...



The $89 adhesive is water based and isn't as waterproof as the petroleum based adhesives. It also requires being fastened mechanically for 3 or 4 days until it cures, this means stapling or taping the vinyl for the cure time. The Merideck adhesive is also for *WOOD ONLY*.

The bond is immediate with the contact cement so taping or stapling isn't required... and for $89 you can get 2 gallons of contact cement.

I'm sure the Merideck is a very good product, and for the price they charge it should be. Marideck is $17.99 per 1 linear foot, Nautolex is $18.99 for 3 linear feet... do you see the difference?


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## Bugpac (May 11, 2012)

Ya its a bit more costly, I have found it for 13.00 per linear ft actually. I was looking at the hydro turf as well, its only 80.00 per 40x60, wtf. I guess there is no glue either tho to be bought.


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## jigngrub (May 11, 2012)

Even at $13 per ft. it's still twice the price of Nautolex, but I doubt it's twice as good.


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## Bugpac (May 11, 2012)

jigngrub said:


> Even at $13 per ft. it's still twice the price of Nautolex, but I doubt it's twice as good.




Ya likely not, I just like the look a lot more of it.


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## Bailey Boat (Jun 11, 2016)

kofkorn said:


> I used the Nautolex Vinyl on my build over the winter. Link here: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=22554&start=120.
> 
> I love the final look and effect. I used the nautolex 88 and had very good results with. I used the 3m Super 90 spray can to hold the edges down I wouldn't suggest this to someone else doing it. I've had some issues with some of the wrapped edges coming unglued from the aluminum. Seems to be an issue with the adhesion of the Super 90 with the aluminum. Luckily, the areas that I can see the separation are accessible and can be redone later, the other areas aren't visible and are mostly mechanically trapped as well.
> 
> ...



Speaking from experience, the areas that you think are secured really aren't. The edges are first to peel and when you try to peel it back to reglue you'll find out that the field isn't really glued. It seems that the glue never really dries but remains tacky. I had failure after about 2 weeks, and this was on a non walking, no stress area.


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