# 9.9 gamefisher



## Gunner (Jun 20, 2010)

i just got my hands on an older 9.9 sears gamefisher. unsure of the year. not the greatest motor but i have to work with it for now. i need the fuel line adapter that attaches the fuel line to the motor. any advice would be greatly appreciated.


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## nyjay75 (Jun 20, 2010)

If you got time, go up to Morehead city. There's a couple of small stores that carry parts for boats. It's been awhile since I left Cherry Point, but I would imagine thoses places are still there.


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## Gunner (Jun 20, 2010)

do u know the name of any of them by chance


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## Whoopbass (Jun 20, 2010)

If you can't find one just run a fuel line straight from the motor to the fuel tank. No fittings required. 
You can also order that part from just about any outboard parts site online.


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## nyjay75 (Jun 20, 2010)

I can't recall the names of my roomates let alone the stores out there. I left in 1997, but they should be in the phone book.


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## cajuncook1 (Jun 20, 2010)

Gunner said:


> i just got my hands on an older 9.9 sears gamefisher. unsure of the year. not the greatest motor but i have to work with it for now. i need the fuel line adapter that attaches the fuel line to the motor. any advice would be greatly appreciated.




You can try ebay or I have listed a couple of salvage yard web addresses.

***You can post a request at AOMCI (Antique Outboard Motor Club Inc.). You can use there webervise section and do a wtb (want to buy) request. Leave your email address so a seller can contact you. List the make, model and serial number) I have purchase several parts from different sellers on that site and have always been satisfied with the price and the product.***

https://www.aomci.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB ... Webvertize


List of Salvage yards

sea-way.com
outboard-parts.com
laingsoutboards.com
tcoutboard.com
fairwindsmarina.com
salvagemarine.com
marinepartsoutlet.com
outboardexchange.com
Superior Marine (800-338-9281)
budgetboats.net
americanoutboard.com
piratemarinesalvage.com
trixieslanding.com
mmmarinesalvage.com
American Outboard https://www.americanoutboard.com

https://www.piratemarinesalvage.com/


Good luck!!

cajuncook1


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## Gunner (Jun 22, 2010)

i greatly appreciate everyone's help. i dont think i can run the fuel line straight though because it looks like the adapter would need a nipple in it to depress a little round part on the male end off the motor. i'm sure i can find one with all at least one of these links. once again, thank you all. and i'm gonna start painting my 14 footer tomorrow, i'll get pics up asap in the conversion section. i'm slowly but surely getting somewhere. it's kind of hard with a broken wrist, lol.


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## njTom (Jun 23, 2010)

I have a 3hp and a 9.9hp. here is how to tell who manufactured what models. Maybe this can help in finding parts.

Identify Outboard Manufacturer by Sears Model Number Prefix
(First Three Numbers followed by a period Identify Manufacturer)
Prefix Brand Name Years Sold Outboard Manufacturer 
???. Motorgo 1914 - 1927 Lockwood-Ash 
M Motorgo 1928 - 1932 Caille Motors 
???. Motorgo 1932 Muncie Gear Works 
217. Sears - Ted Williams - Gamefisher 1968 - 1986 Eska 
225. Gamefisher 1987 - 1996 Force 
298. Gamefisher 19?? - 19?? Tanaka 
369. Sears - Gamefisher 19?? - 19?? ? 
550. Waterwitch 1938 - 1940 Johnson 
???. Waterwitch 1933 - 1937 Muncie Gear Works 
571. Waterwitch 1936 - 1945 Kissel Industries 
571. Elgin 1946 - 1960 West Bend 
574. Elgin - Sears - Ted Williams 1959 - 1969 McCulloch 
582. Sears Simpson (Canada) 1965 - 1968 Clinton


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## nyjay75 (Jun 23, 2010)

Gunner said:


> i greatly appreciate everyone's help. i dont think i can run the fuel line straight though because it looks like the adapter would need a nipple in it to depress a little round part on the male end off the motor. i'm sure i can find one with all at least one of these links. once again, thank you all. and i'm gonna start painting my 14 footer tomorrow, i'll get pics up asap in the conversion section. i'm slowly but surely getting somewhere. it's kind of hard with a broken wrist, lol.


You would have to bypass the quick connect fuel fitting on the motor to do this. Just disconnect the fuel line from your pump and hook up the hose straight from your tank. It' won't take 2 minutes and should only require a screw driver. I had to do it during a tubing trip with my kids, I never even dropped the ancor. If you want, I can send you a quick pic of where to do it.


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## Gunner (Jun 23, 2010)

i would greatly appreciate a pic jay, id rather be safe than sorry.


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## nyjay75 (Jun 24, 2010)

I'll take one and post it this evening. Just remember yours might be in a different location.


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## nyjay75 (Jun 25, 2010)

Yours might have a stainless screw instead of this nice rusty one, and the pic is sideways, but you should have one on the passenger side of the motor. Just unhook the line from your quick connect and hook the fuel line from your tank to this, and you'll be on your way.. Sorry it took so long. Jay


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## Gunner (Jun 25, 2010)

thanks a lot jay. im gonna try it tomorrow


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## BassBlaster (Jun 25, 2010)

You should be able to call a Sears parts center and get that part. I used to have an old Gamefisher 3.5hp and I was able to get a breather assembly for it through them.


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## gmcdp (Jun 27, 2010)

Cabelas carries most of the fuel line fittings, I got one for my 1988 15hp Gamefisher from them.


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## Gunner (Jul 23, 2010)

just an update, not that anyone really cares but i'm bored. I got the fuel line fitting. it came with a cheapo hose clamp. tried it, and i couldnt get it to start. messed with it all day. realized that it probably wasnt sealed because i could hear it hissing at me every now and then. got a good hose clamp, hooked it up started right up but went out, put another hose clamp at the bottom because my ball wasnt staying tight and it fired right up. 2 yrs of sitting under a porch. fuel line fitting for the motor and 2 hose clamps later and i have a running motor for 147 dollars(clamps and fitting included). now on to my old elgin. i paid 250 for both and got one working. try and get this running and sell it


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## cprince (Jul 24, 2010)

I have used zip ties instead of clamps... couldn't find the right size. Works well, but be careful not to over tighten it... end up cutting into the fuel line if you do!

Nice to know that I am not the only one running an Eska on life support!

Craig


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## Gunner (Jul 25, 2010)

new question, ok so i took it back out to the lake today to try and run it(i got it running in a trash can yesterday). after about 35 pulls on the motor i got it to idle. it kept cutting out but i tightened all the clamps and FINALLY got it running, i was about to give up and said, "alright, im just gonna go for it." put it in neutral, started it up(20 pulls later), threw it into forward and gave it some gas. sure enough it took off and ran for about 45 minutes. i had to keep the choke halfway though. not thinking, when i got about 45 minutes out i tried to open the choke. it cut off, i started trolling back trying to get it to go again, finally got it going and i went back. it kept shutting off on me though. i think towards the end i was just getting low on gas, but my question is. why would it take forever to turn over, could the spark plugs be going bad? and what would some reasons be not to be able to open the choke without it cutting out? any advice is appreciated


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## cprince (Jul 25, 2010)

Carb... if you are lucky, just an adjustment. If you are not (and it is really not a big deal...) is will be a carb rebuild.

This is the approach I used on my 77 15hp Eska... purrs like a kitten now!

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Copied from another site
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(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle va /lve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, wating for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway. 

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Hope it helps!

Keep in mind that the top screw is just setting the idle rpm... I would warm up the engine then put it in gear without goosing the gas. If it stalled, I upped the idle... and repeated putting it into gear until it ran...

Craig


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## Gunner (Jul 25, 2010)

thanks prince, probably gonna take her out and run it when my wife get's back from the mall. i'm gonna give it a try. i'll keep my fingers crossed and let you know how it goes


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## Gunner (Jul 27, 2010)

well, no luck. i think the carb needs to be rebuilt. i dont know much about motors but my father in law is coming in town and he's gonna give me a hand with it. if we can't get it going, i will take it to someone that does and see how much it's gonna cost. i'm not gonna throw too much money into it, it's really not that good of a motor. but anyways, i had it running at one point so there is some hope for it.


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## cprince (Jul 28, 2010)

Gunner said:


> well, no luck. i think the carb needs to be rebuilt. i dont know much about motors but my father in law is coming in town and he's gonna give me a hand with it. if we can't get it going, i will take it to someone that does and see how much it's gonna cost. i'm not gonna throw too much money into it, it's really not that good of a motor. but anyways, i had it running at one point so there is some hope for it.



The reoccurring advice that I get about my motor is always the same; Get it running and sell it quick.

Take it for what it's worth.

Good luck and let us all know how it turns out for you.

Craig


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## Gunner (Jul 31, 2010)

well i've had some good luck today, had it running a lot today in the back yard. i'll take it to the lake tomorrow and see what it's gonna do for me. i'm pretty happy with it's performance today. i really think i had a bad mixture. so i remixed and its been going strong. we'll see tomorrow


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## cprince (Aug 8, 2010)

Gunner said:


> well i've had some good luck today, had it running a lot today in the back yard. i'll take it to the lake tomorrow and see what it's gonna do for me. i'm pretty happy with it's performance today. i really think i had a bad mixture. so i remixed and its been going strong. we'll see tomorrow




She still treating you right?

Craig


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## Gunner (Aug 14, 2010)

it seems like one problem after another. i'll get it started on like the 3rd pull(hell, sometimes the 30th) and it will run for a while. i'll open the choke or throttle down too much and it will cut out. and not work for a while. it will crank a little bit but then give up on me. i'm just gonna take it in and get it checked out. it can't be anything too big but who knows. im gonna tell him, if it isn't worth it, just forget it. i will put no more than 100 dollars into that motor. that will leave me with a working motor for 250. not the best motor, but a motor none the less. i dont know if i'm flooding it or what. is there any way to tell if im flooding it by priming the bulb too much


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## free jonboat (Aug 14, 2010)

when you throttle down too much, how much is it, like at idle or like to the point where it is sputtering and struggling to stay running. and why would you need to open up the choke if its already running


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## Gunner (Aug 15, 2010)

like i said, i dont know much about motors. i started with the choke closed and then open it once it starts up. that's what i thought you were supposed to do. am i wrong? it's when i throttle all the way down. that might be normal but i dont know. this is all new to me. and sometimes it takes forever to even get running. once it runs for a minute and i shut it off it usually starts right back up but if i let it sit im right back at square one.


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## free jonboat (Aug 15, 2010)

Gunner said:


> like i said, i dont know much about motors. i started with the choke closed and then open it once it starts up. that's what i thought you were supposed to do. am i wrong? it's when i throttle all the way down. that might be normal but i dont know. this is all new to me. and sometimes it takes forever to even get running. once it runs for a minute and i shut it off it usually starts right back up but if i let it sit im right back at square one.



ok i see what your saying. i know on my 7.5 gamefisher, it has no kill switch, you throttle all the way down to kill it. and as for the choke issue, it sounds like a carb issue but i am by no means a mechanic.


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## Gunner (Aug 15, 2010)

that's what i was thinking. i dont wanna mess it up even worse. im probably gonna have it looked at


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