# integral hub to stud hub conversion



## matt112485 (Nov 18, 2011)

I searched and couldn't find anything here, very little on google. Anyone ever done this?

My new boat came with a trailer with integral hub wheels. I didn't even realize it was this style and the other night I thought I might pick up a spare online. I went out to see how many lugs it was and figured out quickly that this setup seems pretty sorry. If I have a flat I get to re-do the whole bearing setup right there on the side of the highway? What if a bearing won't come off, and I'm sure they wouldn't be warm at all after driving on the highway? Then my hands are covered with grease. Lame!

What I found on google is that hubs are available, and that I probably need "short hubs", and the rest is pretty straight forward. Just wondering if anyone has ever done this and if they ran into anything I should look into beforehand since I will probably have to order parts online.

I need to weld on some fenders so rocks and stuff don't get slung into the boat as well, the tires just sit uncovered below the boat.


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## gouran01 (Nov 19, 2011)

a good option is getting a new axle all together. You can get one with hubs all ready to go at tractor supply for the $100-150 range that will bolt on as quick or quicker than changing a hub out. last time I had a bearing go out, it messed up the hub, hub was 80 bucks vs two new ones and new heavier axle for a few $ more.


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## matt112485 (Nov 19, 2011)

So, after we took the boat out for one last spin before it gets cold, I looked into this some more. I pulled the wheel off and the spindle is 3/4", which I can't find anything but replacement bearings for. I can't even find a replacement wheel, so this setup has to go. Even if I found something, replacement parts are not local by any means. I'd have to hope I don't destroy the existing wheel and carry a spare unmounted tire and a way to get the old one off and new one on, right on the side of the road if I had a flat.

The trailer is a complete home made job so the spring width and track is all strange, making the TS kit ones not work without MAJOR modifications to the trailer. I found an axle kit at northern tool that you just cut to fit then weld together. After probing around the internet for a while I am going to build one with parts from etrailer and amazon for WAY less $. They have a 1" spindle with a larger tubing where you weld that fits right inside a 1 1/4" SCH 40 steel pipe, 1.38". Along with that I am going to ditch the "half spring" suspension and put on 2 500# slipper springs. The existing spring looks like they took a full leaf spring, cut it in half, and bolted a leaf from the frame to the axle. Then amazon has some 5 lug hubs at a great price I'll put on.

While I am at it, I'll weld on some fenders to keep the rocks off the boat going down the road.

Looks like this trailers poor design choices will set me back $150 and change, plus wheels/tires, plus fenders, welding, and time.

Would I be better off just looking for a trailer on craigslist, as in would my trailer, fully improved, be worth the money I put in it?


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Nov 20, 2011)

As long as your putting your boat away for the winter I would look for a new to you trailer.


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## matt112485 (Nov 20, 2011)

Found a solution:

https://www.harborfreight.com/1090-lb-capacity-40-1-2-half-inch-x-48-inch-mini-utility-trailer-with-12-inch-four-lug-wheels-and-tires-90153.html

This trailer is the same width as my boat trailer, so I'll get this, put the springs, axle, wheels, and fenders on my boat trailer. 

Then I'll stick the springs, axle, and wheels that are on my trailer now onto the HF frame and stick it on craigslist and recoup some of the cost! $183 out the door and surely I could get $50 for the leftovers. :mrgreen:


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## moberg12 (Nov 22, 2011)

matt112485 said:


> Found a solution:
> 
> https://www.harborfreight.com/1090-lb-capacity-40-1-2-half-inch-x-48-inch-mini-utility-trailer-with-12-inch-four-lug-wheels-and-tires-90153.html
> 
> ...



There is more to it than just the width. Are the springs the correct length to mount to you existing trailer, do the spring centers on the axles match?? These are things I'd want to know before I spent $200. 

For about $60 you should be able to pick up two new hubs with bearings!!


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## matt112485 (Nov 22, 2011)

Unfortunately that HF idea won't work either. I figured out my trailer is a standard c channel boat trailer in the front half, then angle iron welded together to make c channel where the spring attaches, then just angle for the last part. The front part, which is in good condition except for some ugly welds on the coupler, is 42" wide. It varies from that as the frame is modified further back. That HF trailer is 40.5" wide, if I swap axles the frame will rub the tires. Plus the spindles and bearings are some strange metric measurement, and the castle nuts are loose on the thread, probably not something I should put money into. So much for that idea, especially since I found one like new with a spare tire for $75 on craigslist.

I searched craigslist, people are sure proud of their boat trailers when it comes to price. I found a real nice one for $300 obo, but for a much wider boat. The way I see it I'm going to spend more buying a trailer and modifying it to fit my boat than I would fixing this one properly. I'm going to keep a lookout over the winter for a trailer that is just right for my boat as it is, but if one doesn't come along I'll probably cut my trailer back to the factory c channel and weld new c channel where all that angle iron hack job stuff is, then add a standard axle with standard slipper springs.


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