# Project Boat for my son. NC



## NCGRIZ (Jan 7, 2017)

New to this site and ready to learn on my first project boat. Picked this up from a neighbor who no longer wanted the yard decoration. I have a plan for this boat to become my sons when he is of age and ready to pilot. It is a 1969 Duracraft and I don't know much more than that. Looking forward to whats to come!

Bill
Raleigh, NC


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## kmfw160 (Jan 7, 2017)

Hey Bill, I'm a new-guy too...there is an incredible amount of knowledge from really nice and helpful people here. Looks like you're gonna have a cool project this winter. I'm working a 1436 Alumacraft for my son currently...have a good one!
Kevin


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## richg99 (Jan 7, 2017)

Often, the first thing that is recommended on a "new-to-you" boat is to be certain that you can register it in your (or your son's) name. It would be a shame to put a lot of work in, and they be stuck because your neighbor never properly transferred the boat from where-ever he got it.

From that point on, it's just a case of figuring out what you want from the boat. Mostly, the best thing to do is to be certain that it is safe, and then just go fishing a number of times. After you and he have a half dozen trips under your belt, you will probably know what has to be changed.

I can't tell you how many modifications I made on my earlier boats, only to find out that what I did wasn't what I later wanted. That's why I screw together any PVC project, instead of gluing it. After I figure out if the item does the job, then, I glue it together. The same thing applies to working on "improving" your boat, IMHO.

Ther are tons of really well done "build threads" on this site. Read, measure (twice), and then cut.

Have fun, richg99


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## NCGRIZ (Jan 7, 2017)

Thank you Kevin, I'm looking forward to some warmer weather to make this happen.


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## NCGRIZ (Jan 7, 2017)

Thanks Rich, the boat is titled and paid for in my name. Having owned several boats, this is the first one I will "build." I have simple goals in mind that should keep me in line.


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## AnglerC (Jan 10, 2017)

Hey Bill.... Looks like a great starter... How old is your son? Is this going to be a joint father son endeavor? 

Rebuild my first boat last year. It was the hardest, funest, coolest, most frustrating thing I've ever done. Now I want to do another one!!! 

It gets in you blood. Read Read Read. And ask these guys all the questions. Even the ones that seem stupid. These guys have dealt with them and know the solution.

Post pix of your progress. If I learned anything on this forum these guys like pix. It's like boat porn to us!!! 

Good luck and keep us posted!!! 

Kevin


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## NCGRIZ (Jan 10, 2017)

Kevin, he is in 1st grade so this will be my project. I have a big Carolina Skiff but I have always wanted to do this. The boat is in decent condition. I need to strip all of the paint off first. From there all it needs is a motor for it to we fishable. I do have goals to set up the electrics in good form by adding toggle switches. I want a grab bar for running the tiller motor. Maybe LED lights on the inside to illuminate it. My CC skiff has a MinnKota Riptide that I will be able to put on the little boat as needed. Possibly a poling platform if it will draft shallow for redfish. I am really looking forward to this and ready for the weather to break so I can get to work. I will post pics as I progress.


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## Johnny (Jan 10, 2017)

Griz - your enthusiasm is admirable !!
My parents bought a new Crestliner runabout in 1959
for family fun.... I'm sure it was not their intentions to
make it a family heirloom, but, just for the times that we had together.
I still have that same boat today and still use it. So yours can very well be
passed around from family member to family member for many years.
good work !!!





.


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## CedarRiverScooter (Jan 10, 2017)

I still remember the day in 1964 when dad got the Larsen runabout.

I can't, however, remember where I put the car keys. Oh there they are, in my pocket!


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## NCGRIZ (Jan 31, 2017)

Due to the cold weather I have stalled on my project. Over the weekend I was able to get the transom out and it is rotten. Between the moisture and termites, it's done. I had to drill some rivots out so that will be a big challenge. I don't own one so I will have to find someone to help. As for the transom, I want to use Starboard but open to any other suggestions. Looked into motors as well. Thinking a 15 will work for me. Found a local man to spray my boat with a water jet that will remove the paint.


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## richg99 (Jan 31, 2017)

In spite of the weather, that sounds like progress. Keep going. Rich


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Jan 31, 2017)

A properly sealed plywood transom will last a long time.


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## NCGRIZ (Feb 1, 2017)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> A properly sealed plywood transom will last a long time.



I agree. It would be easy for me to cut, seal, and reinstall quickly too.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Feb 1, 2017)

Search on tinboats for "Old timers formula"


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## NCGRIZ (Feb 1, 2017)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> Search on tinboats for "Old timers formula"



Thanks for this. I will look into it this weekend.


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## Johnny (Feb 1, 2017)

One of many blends of a home-made penetrating waterproof sealer 
is to add the following products together: mix enough to make one pint to start with.
*1 part varnish
1 part boiled linseed or tung oil
2 parts mineral spirits. *
One note of interest: If you are in a really humid area where mildew is frequent, 
skip the addition of linseed or tung oil and use a straight mix of 50/50 plain mineral spirits 
and your preferred varnish for the initial penetrating sealer. Long oils such as lindseed or tung oil
actually "may" promote the growth of mildew and mold. Additional coats of undiluted 
varnish or oil based paint will give additional protection.
Apply liberally with brush, roller, spray or rag. When the surface appears to be saturated, 
wipe off the excess. allow this first application to dry for a minimum of 48 hours before applying additional coats.
Two or more coats of straight varnish applied 24 hours apart will seal the wood quite well.
Varying climatic conditions and time of day can affect the drying/curing process.




.


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## uncndl1 (Feb 2, 2017)

There are many threads on the Transom rebuild. I'd read a bunch before starting. I used exterior plywood and used the old Transom as a template. Good indoor project before it warms up! Enjoy. 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


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## dearl (Feb 2, 2017)

As Johnny stated, this is what I use on transom rebuilds. On the final full strength varnish I use Spar varnish, Very easy to work with. This recipe makes a good bit, plenty to make several good coats.


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## Johnny (Feb 2, 2017)

Earl - you say that you use only Spar Varnish,
yet the photo shows Polyurethane by Min Wax.
that product is suggested for interior floors and furniture only.
also - the mix ratio is not correct: one gallon of mix will last someone 75 years.
one pint should be sufficient for the initial application.
use "parts" instead of the whole quart as suggested.
once thinned per the instructions, a little goes a long way.


please read my article: https://www.tinboats.net/varnish-vs-polyurethane

I know that Min Wax " Helmsman Spar Urethane" is the most common varnish
in the Big Box Stores - but - urethane is not very UV tolerant.
IMO, they just tried to cover both bases by mixing the two products together.

jus my Dos Centavos


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## NCGRIZ (Feb 2, 2017)

What you guys think about truck bed liner as a seal? I have enough left over to cover it.


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## dearl (Feb 2, 2017)

Sorry Johnny, to clarify after the initial application of linseed oil/mineral spirits /and polyurethane I apply the varnish. The varnish is the last step. Your right the recipe makes a gallon and It will go along way. You could mix up parts to make less, I mix it by the gallon and have done 3 - 4 transoms off one batch.


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## Johnny (Feb 2, 2017)

that's cool.

I just taylor my suggestions to the individual's needs.
99.9% of the members here are not in the commercial arena
and may only do one transom every 5-10 years. 

Tight Lines !!


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## Johnny (Feb 2, 2017)

IMHO - truck bed liners should be left in the truck bed.
once applied, and you don't like it, you may never get it off
to do it over again correctly.

again - just my personal opinion.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Feb 2, 2017)

I did a transom 5'x 16"x1.5" made of 2 layers of 3/4" BCX plywood and used less than a quart of old timers. Each part was 8 ounces.


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## NCGRIZ (Mar 18, 2017)

Boat is back from dustless blasting. Took a while but I am pleased with the outcome. Ready for rebuild. Need a trailer. Anyone close to NC with one, let me know.


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