# Hub Spindle gap



## joefur (Apr 27, 2016)

I have a pretty old trailer, probably late 50's though I'm not sure the axle is original. I replaced the bearings and races, they were 3/4" on both ends. The races were hell to hammer in but as far as I can tell I got them in all the way and they were the same depth on both hubs. I gave the new and old bearings the eye test to see if they were the same size though in hindsight I should have put the verniers on them. I wasn't expecting the gap between the hub and the end of the spindle but maybe its normal. 
When installing the nut I understand that a little play is required and I assume that's for expansion with heat. The nut went on just enough to get the cotter pin in though I wish there was a little more play.
Long story short, does this gap seem OK. 

Thanks guys!!


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## Al U Minium (Apr 27, 2016)

The metal is shiny on the axle next to the hub, if you didn't polish it then I would say the hub is not fully seated. The fact the nut barely made it on enough to put in a cotter pin tells me there are problems. You should never hammer on bearings, races, or seals and if you did, take everything apart and start over. It won't cost much to do it over compared to hiring the work done and once you have the skill it will stay with you. You are right to get out the measuring equipment.


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## joefur (Apr 27, 2016)

Thanks for your reply. 
The races are a compression fit so I dont know how you would seat them without hammering them in there. I'm not talking about taking a framing hammer and pounding away, I used the old bearing ring cushioned with electric tap in the new races and hammered them in as easy as possible - though it wasnt easy. The bearings sat down and the seal was eased in with little effort. 
As far as staring over, I'm not sure I dont have a 50 year old odd ball, it is a 3/4" hub but who knows about the taper and such. 
Thanks again for responding. I'm still not sure I'm good.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Apr 27, 2016)

One of my trailers has 3/4" spindles.
I agree the shiny area where the old seal was riding shows the hub was sitting farther in.


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## kstrayhorn (Apr 27, 2016)

For a lot of hubs, you tighten the castle nut down (don't remember the tq spec) to seat, then back the nut off, hand tighten, then install the cotter pin.


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## KMixson (Apr 28, 2016)

kstrayhorn said:


> For a lot of hubs, you tighten the castle nut down (don't remember the tq spec) to seat, then back the nut off, hand tighten, then install the cotter pin.



Yes that is the correct way to install wheel bearings. They call it preloading the bearings. As for torque specs, I would tighten them down until the wheel has some resistance in turning and then back off the spindle nut. Then lightly tighten the spindle nut and secure it with the cotter pin. You don't want play in the bearing but you also don't want them too tight. 

As for the picture of the spindle, if the race is up against the shoulder of the spindle and the grease seal is on the spindle seal lip it should be OK. If the bearing race is not up on the shoulder as it gets hot it may slip and loosen the bearings causing them to fail.


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## perchjerker (Apr 28, 2016)

first off, the races have to pounded in since its a press fit. I would use a brass drift or better yet, a race installer. You will be able to tell when they seat fully in the hub. You will feel the difference when you are tapping it in

Why did you replace everything? Was there a problem or just because it was old?

reason I ask is the spindle may be damaged and not allowing the inner bearing to slide all the way into position on it.

I would take one of the bearings (the outer bearing is fine) and try to slide it all the way on the spindle and see where it stops.

To check to see if the bearing races are installed all the way, take a dental pick or something similar and try probe between the race and the hub, if there is a gap then its not seated all the way.

What you have may be normal, may not be. Hard to say.

Do you still have the old bearings? If so slide one of those on and compare it to where the new one sits

this is what I would do for starters.

you are adjusting the bearing nut the proper way, no problem there

as long as the inner bearing is fully seated on the spindle and the inner seal is riding on the machined surface of the spindle making full contact it should be fine. the shiny surface you are seeing may be misleading. Like I said hard to say until you do a stackup of all the parts

If I was a betting man from your description I think they are fine. There may be slight differences in the thickness in the new and old bearings, that might be why the hole for the cotter pin is not lining up the same

Worse you could do is drive it around for a short period and see if they loosen up.


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## joefur (Apr 28, 2016)

I am doing a full boat/trailer/motor restore, that's the reason I was changing the bearings. I towed the boat from Tenn to Fla and it rode fine so far as I know there was not a pre-existing problem. 
It doesnt matter if I take 3 pictures or 300 I never seem to get the shot I need, the hub may be right where its supposed to be. Next time I dig in to something I'm going to take pictures of everything I DONT think matter, then I'll be sure to get what I need.
I like the idea of sliding the old bearing on there and see where it ends up. I'll give that a go.

Thanks for your replies.


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## perchjerker (Apr 28, 2016)

sounds good

servicing wheel bearings was part of my livelihood for about 20 years.


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## kstrayhorn (Apr 29, 2016)

Also if it's not to late, might I make a suggestion. My grandpa always carried an extra set of pregreased bearings with him. I would recommend you do the same with the old bearings. I just replaced both my hubs as the guy before me had all kinds of crazy stuff going on (no washer on one side, only one bearing buddy, etc.) and I had one explode after dragging it through a bean field during duck season. Oops. Anyway, I kept the one good hub, greased it up, plastic wrapped it, and carry it and some spare hardware in a box in the truck.


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