# 1957 Lowell Lightweight Full Restore/Rebuild



## geologyst1 (Jul 3, 2013)

Hi There,

I've been lurking around here long enough I think, and finally got my hands on an old tin boat. The previous owner claimed that she was a 1957 Lowell, and although she is clearly marked as a Lowell, there is no date marking that I have been able to find, and very little information in general about Lowell boats at all, other than:

https://news.google.com/newspapers?...EkdAAAAIBAJ&sjid=FlQEAAAAIBAJ&pg=5117,3654968

and 

https://news.google.com/newspapers?...rBYAAAAIBAJ&sjid=nvcDAAAAIBAJ&pg=7270,6989611

Her serial number is clearly stamped, but I have not been able to find any other information about Lowell boats other than these two articles from way back in the day, but one does see them from time to time for sale up here in the Pacific Northwest.

Anyhow, this is what she looked like when I got her:





As you can see, her hull had the remnants of 5 different coats of paint: white, dark green, light blue, dark blue, and red, while inside had coats of light blue, dark blue, and white (they even painted right over the steering wheel).

I have no idea how long she was sitting, but every bit of steel/stainless on her was rusted out, her glass and seats are missing, and every piece of wood was shot/rotten through. 

So far, I have removed every single rusted out screw and bolt from her, removed the transom wood (inside and out) and stripped her hull clean of paint. 





I guess I forgot to mention that she is around 15' long with a 15" transom. I'll pull some better measurements after the holiday weekend, in case anybody wants to have a better idea of her dimensions.

Anyhow, more soon!

-James


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## geologyst1 (Jul 3, 2013)

I guess I forgot to mention what my plans are for this little boat. I expect to use it mostly trolling for kokanee on the lakes around here, and for steelhead at the Snake River/Clearwater River confluence.

In addition to paint and hull repair, at this time I plan on building an enclosure in the stern for battery box and fuel tank, replace the bench seats, add and plumb a livewell, install rod and dry storage, replace the windshield glass, and then finally re-install the steering and motor controls.

Like a lot of people on here, my budget for this is at the mercy of my wife and kids, so I don't expect that this will happen all that speedily, but I got the boat for free so this hasn't hurt too bad yet!

more soon,

-James


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## Colbyt (Jul 4, 2013)

I hate to see people get caught in a bind. What are the title and registration laws in your state? You may want to investigate before you get in too deeply.


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## geologyst1 (Jul 4, 2013)

Idaho law is pretty lax on titling requirements for old boats, the cutoff date for requiring a title is boats newer than 1999, unless they are being financed, or have been previously titled ( they can be optionally titled, but not required to be, and once titled they must remain titled)

I will have to register it before use, and acquire registration number and tags, but there shouldn't be any issue with the registration and use of this boat when completed. Even though I got the boat for free, I did get a bill of sale which will be good enough to prove ownership for registration purposes.


-James


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## geologyst1 (Jul 8, 2013)

OK, I got a little time over the long weekend, so i began some general clean up of the interior of the old beast and I have a few questions that I thought you guys might be able to help out with:

Number 1:

On the forward bench bracket, I found a crack. Its about three inches long




I thought I would drill a small hole at the end of it, to keep it from spreading, but is there something I should do to try to repair it the brace itself without interfering with bolting the bench back down to it?

Number 2:
There is some pitting here and there on the interior. Would aluminum filler putty be appropriate to fill these? would JB Weld work?



after a little bit more research on pitting in aluminum, I think that I will deal with this by thoroughly cleaning the pitted areas with degreaser and with some alumabrite that I picked up (was going to clean the whole boat in this fashion anyhow) then priming it to prevent further corrosion. Anybody have a better idea?

And Number 3:
There are two wooded supports or braces in the rear of the boat, mounted pretty high up on the sidewall. They are pretty dry rotted, but even though I have removed the bolts and washers, I cannot get these things off. Does anybody know what they are for? Does anybody have a suggestion on how to get them off??





Thanks a ton!

-James


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## orttauq (Jan 25, 2017)

Hello All,

I just bought this boat from James and am going to take over the project. As he stated he got it very cleaned up and ready for paint and re-assembly.

I am hoping for some input from people who have painted aluminum. All the 'boat' paints I have looked at talk about prep of wood or fiberglass; do I need to be concerned with the type/brand of paint on the aluminum? *Or will any GOOD bot paint be ok?*

I am also hoping for help with the remote control cables for the throttle/gear shift-the unit itself is in real good shape (once I got the 4 layers of paint off of it). I also have the motor end parts that connect to the Evinrude Fasttwin 15. The cables on the other-hand are shot. *Any ideas where to get new ones? *

Last question in this post is about the Evinrude. I am in Seattle and was hoping to find someone to do a full restore. I have found one that looks to do really good work but they are in Ontario, Can so shipping round trip would be ~$500-600 I am also open to buying one already restored.

Thanks, 
Eric


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## Shaugh (Jan 25, 2017)

That wood on the side appears to be something that a previous owner bolted on. I'd just take it off and plug the holes.

Before painting I'd suggest that your first step is to do a really good brushing inside and out. That will help your paint stick well and show you any areas that need structural work. missing rivets or leak repairs.

Try one of these brushes. They work really well and don't dig in like wire brushes:
https://www.amazon.com/Dico-541-778-4-Nyalox-4-Inch-Orange/dp/B00004YYD8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1485362690&sr=8-5&keywords=nyalox+brush




Wear a dust mask and do it outside in a breeze if possible.....


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## orttauq (Jan 25, 2017)

Thanks for the reply. I will look at those brushes. Is the black on your boat from using water? kinda like wet sanding?

Speaking of rivets it is missing a few but worse is that over the years it has acquired many holes-like for the controls that look like they have been moved up or down and now I have to fill them.


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## Shaugh (Jan 25, 2017)

That black is 50 years of corrosion on bare aluminum. The whole boat was like that and I took it all off with 1 of those brushes.

filling holes is part of the ritual. I counted all the holes in mine I needed to fill.... 93....

These are first steps you will want to take before worrying about paint. Get the hull stripped down. Holes plugged. Structural issues taken care of. Leaks fixed. Then move on to paints and other decisions. How's the transom ?


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## orttauq (Jan 25, 2017)

How are you filling the holes? I have been trying to find a used pneumatic rivet gun and some standard airframe rivets (the Lowell was built by ex Boeing aircraft guys)
The guns are very spendy even used, but I would like to keep with the airframe rivets rather than something else. I only found one missing structural rivet but maybe 50-60 holes drilled in over the years.

Transom looks real good, knee brace it solid. I have some marine grade 11 ply plywood to go in once I get the metal painted. I plan to then paint the plywood too.


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## dearl (Jan 25, 2017)

Welcome, Nice project!

The pits are from corrosion, and before you fill the hole you need to kill the corrosion, or else it will continue to eat your boat. Mix a spray bottle 50/50 with muriatic acid and water, spray the area liberally, use a stainless brush to work it in to the holes. Use the necessary safety equipment, gloves, glass's etc. Let this work no more than 5 minutes, then rinse really good with plenty of water. That's it, let it dry then you can use JB thinned with acetone to fill in the voids. Sand flush, then primer with zinc chromate (self etching primer). Once the corrosion is removed its important to primer the area or the corrosion will begin again eventually. Good Luck!


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## orttauq (Jan 25, 2017)

Thanks dearl. I have already started priming the inside with sump paint after a good cleaning then a wipe down with acetone. The white corrosion had been removed in that area but I still need to work on getting some stubborn old paint off before I can do the rest of the inside.


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## orttauq (Jan 25, 2017)

Sorry I have tried several times to get this pic to not rotate.


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## orttauq (Jan 25, 2017)




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## Shaugh (Jan 25, 2017)

Most people just use a pop rivet gun and sealed rivets:

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6555-Rivet-40-Piece-Rivets/dp/B000NPT74C/ref=pd_sim_60_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000NPT74C&pd_rd_r=8KRXGCPAHECS1JHZE8CA&pd_rd_w=YFFQn&pd_rd_wg=tLzdO&psc=1&refRID=8KRXGCPAHECS1JHZE8CA

https://www.amazon.com/500-Rivets-Aluminum-CLOSED-SEALED/dp/B00AGK9YLK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1485371853&sr=8-5&keywords=sealed+rivets

That's a cool boat, take your time and enjoy the journey.. Be sure your primer is made for bare aluminum... self etching...


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## dearl (Jan 25, 2017)

Ok you might be ok, going forward remember, paint will not stick to aluminum very long with out being "etched". there are several ways to do this, the easiest and least expensive is to use a self etching primer. Aluminum by nature oxidizes to protect itself from the elements, that's why you see new aluminum turn white over a period of time, etching makes the aluminum accept and hold paint, instead of repeal it. You still got plenty of painting to do, its a learning process, you'll see what works and doesn't as you go.


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## orttauq (Jan 25, 2017)

MANY Thanks! I have ordered a primer the meets the requirements for aluminum and luckily it says it can be applied over existing paint so I will just use it to prime the whole boat as I work out the issues.

Being an 'airframe' built boat I am going to take the time to use the correct rivets-I have a bid in on the right rivet gun on eBay and am hoping to find an airframe universal rivet kit...I have not found any need for countersunk yet.

Because people like pics


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## orttauq (Jan 25, 2017)

Many Hours getting the $400 CL trailer to fit the boat


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## orttauq (Jan 25, 2017)

Going to re-ask this since the focus has been on the aluminum/paint:

I am also hoping for help with the remote control cables for the throttle/gear shift-the unit itself is in real good shape (once I got the 4 layers of paint off of it). I also have the motor end parts that connect to the Evinrude Fasttwin 15. The cables on the other-hand are shot. 

*Any ideas where to get new ones? *


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## dearl (Jan 26, 2017)

Looks like a standard OMC/Johnson/Evinrude control cable. I cant see the other end so I'm not sure but if one cable has both of the ends below on it, you can find them anywhere, run you about $30 each.


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## orttauq (Jan 26, 2017)

I had no idea...I even found them listed on Amazon. Thanks. 
How do I measure the cables? Total end to end length with the pictured ends or just the cable without the ends? They are listed in 1ft lengths starting at 9 and just my cables are a little over 10ft. Do I buy 10 foot or 11 foot?

Here is what I have for the ends



I then have the same cable housing ends as in the picture-the brass and black adjustable plastic.


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## Shaugh (Jan 26, 2017)

For Replacement of Existing Cable:

If you removed the old cable, measure for replacement cable as follows:

Measure cable from tip to tip (without ends) and round up to next whole foot, if necessary (aftermarket cables are sold in foot increments).


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## orttauq (Jan 26, 2017)

Thanks...I have the housings but the cable (the solid wire that moves) was cut off before I had the boat.

Looks like there was a change in ends in 1979. Most ends I have found so far a permanently attached unlike the older ones that are held by a set screw.


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## Shaugh (Jan 26, 2017)

https://www.wholesalemarine.com/teleflex-cc170-control-cable-assembly-400-series/


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## orttauq (Jan 26, 2017)

Thanks! Found that pre-1979 are the 400 series. Placed my order

Now I have to get 50 years of grease and paint off the controller.


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## Shaugh (Jan 26, 2017)

Controls can be as much work as restoring a motor... I just got mine done:


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## orttauq (Jan 26, 2017)

OK now you need to post or link to more pictures of your boat. On my list is building a flat wood floor (no carpet)...


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## Shaugh (Jan 26, 2017)

When you get there I'll be happy to help..


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## orttauq (Jan 26, 2017)

That looks NICE


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## orttauq (Feb 2, 2017)

Project update: I have received the 2 11 foot remote control cables, cleaned up the remote control insides and removed layers of paint. Almost all of the inside of the boat has been sealed.
Also received the rivet gun and airframe universal rivets to start replacing/repair those.

Next I plan on building a better mount for the remote control since the was just held in place with long bolts that held it off the side to clear the top rail. Not a good way to do it.
Another issue is over the years the remote control has been mounted it 4 places leaving 4 set of three holes that I now need to fill. They are too big for rivets so not sure what to do there.
I am also going to have to wire it for navigation lights since we will be using it after dark a lot. Found some very low draw, retro looking LEDs. 
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CRBLRWO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## putback (Feb 21, 2017)

Nice hull, love the style. Now that you have a pneumatic buck riveter you can probably find a buck rivet large enough to fill the holes. Take a look a jay-cee sales. www.rivetsinstock.com. Some thing I learned restoring old airstream trailers. With aluminum hulls you can cover some serious blems with a patch and some creativity, looks like its suppose to be there! Your plank floor idea makes some serious sence & looks good. I'm restoring a similar hull and was going to just go carpet. Like your idea much better. Looks good,durable, faster dry, less rot concern & lift out panels. Have a local mill that saws out cedar any way we like. THANKS.


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## orttauq (Feb 27, 2017)

Lots of progress. Pics because people like pics: 
Transom wood all replaced; both interior and exterior. Painted knee brace to match remote control-no pic of that yet :| 




Replaced windshield header; it had be cut off at some point :? 


Repaired and reinstalled handle at bow, ordered a replacement stern handle to be copied from the existing one from a local foundry.
Got some electrical done but still waiting for more parts. All LED so battery life will be good.
Removed paint from all the brass fittings that had been painted over.


Cleaned up bow and transom exterior aluminum following instructions from people who restore Airstreams so now nice and shiny , replaced more rivets.


Have in hand all the teak





No pics yet of deck made of marine plywood going in. You can see it in last pic before I started cutting it to shape (from hell that was). Just got it sealed when it started snowing so dry time went from 24 hours to ~4days. Will not be able to get that in boat for a few days now. Going to make look like a 57 pick-up truck bed with WOW strips. Have to make those still as well get floatation foam under it.

Next is the restoration of the original Attwood steering wheel, finding some cleats that will fit, getting bench seat made, running cable for steering. AND then the hardest part...a motor.


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## DDudley (Mar 1, 2017)

This boat is a beauty!


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## orttauq (Apr 1, 2021)

Sadly I must sell this boat, I have too many boats. Here is the Spokane, WA Craigslist listing:

https://spokane.craigslist.org/boa/d/spokane-1957-lowell-lightweight/7293361782.html

As you can see I did get the restore/rebuild completed (even though I did not keep this post updated). I have used it for the last 3 summers without issue, it was registered in Idaho until 2020. If interested please reply here, PM me, or via CL email relay. Thanks, Eric


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## orttauq (Oct 6, 2021)

orttauq said:


> Sadly I must sell this boat, I have too many boats. Here is the Spokane, WA Craigslist listing:
> 
> https://spokane.craigslist.org/boa/d/spokane-1957-lowell-lightweight/7293361782.html
> 
> As you can see I did get the restore/rebuild completed (even though I did not keep this post updated). I have used it for the last 3 summers without issue, it was registered in Idaho until 2020. If interested please reply here, PM me, or via CL email relay. Thanks, Eric



SOLD


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