# New member, New Boat, 1st Boat!



## mcateercustom (Aug 10, 2012)

Hey guys! Just joined up to this great looking site, tons of great info. I just traded for a boat. This is my first one. I was so disappointed when I found out I really can't use it yet. It needs some transom work.
It was very disheartening. But after I kicked myself and cried a little I have decided to bite the bullet and fix it up. I got some much needed inspiration needed from A post on here. So here is the start of the long road to recovery. 











Trolling mount defiantly needs a little tlc. 





That crack there didn't get seen until the guy that sold it to me was long gone. When I initially looked at the boat it wasn't there I think it happened when he delivered it to me cause I noticed the motor was down. Probably a lot of bouncing around put that rip there. I guess since I have a rotten transome to replace it won't be that bad. :mrgreen: 





You know you never really notice everything until the deal is done! Notice the tie down loop. #-o 






Also on the side of the motor it says classic fifty. But the cover say 45.





Here is the worst part. 










It all seems pretty great except for the transome which is pretty dern important!





Defiantly some console work to be done. New steering wheel and gauges are in order. A CD player would be ok as well.


Any and all recommendations will be much apprecaited like I said this is my first boat and so I dont know a lot about them but I pretty handy. Built houses since I was fourteen 29 now and not finished learning yet! Thanks in advance.


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## mcateercustom (Aug 10, 2012)

Well I got the motor all disconnected ready to pull off. And got the console out I was thinking about some sort of bed liner to cover the console. Something like rhino or the like, any ideas? I also wanted to go around the aluminum on the inside top of the boat I like the none slippery bumpy fill of rhino liner. Are there any specific brands to lean towards?


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## muffin (Aug 10, 2012)

congrats on the boat. i may have missed, but what size is it? im not good enough to tell from looking


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## mcateercustom (Aug 10, 2012)

Hey thanks! If you hold your mouth just right close your left eye and look cross eyed you'd be able to see its a 16ft! Well maybe not all that but the registration says 16 lol. :mrgreen:


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## muffin (Aug 10, 2012)

mcateercustom said:


> Hey thanks! If you hold your mouth just right close your left eye and look cross eyed you'd be able to see its a 16ft! Well maybe not all that but the registration says 16 lol. :mrgreen:



i tried, got nothin #-o


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## Captain Ahab (Aug 10, 2012)

Good stuff and welcome to TB


Avoid BassAddict if you value your sanity


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## freetofish (Aug 10, 2012)

welcome aboard! That is a very nice looking boat... Looks like you need to find a good Alum. welder that can fix your transom right up... probably not as bad as you think... The trick here is finding a good welder that can weld Alum.


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## mcateercustom (Aug 11, 2012)

Thanks guys! Captain Ahab, I don't know what that is but from the sound of your experience if I see it I will run the other direction! 

I think I found a guy that can do the welding. He charges $65 an hour. Does that sound good? I heard he was really great. Also I crawled under the stern and there is a bondo spot about as big round as a cereal bowl. My thinking is grind/scrap/chisel/sand or whatever else takes it off, and get him to weld whatever damage maybe underneath it. Does that sound right? I figured I don't want to pay him for sanding lol. The rest of the bottom looks pretty good. I'm excited now that I know people who know stuff :mrgreen:


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## Gramps50 (Aug 11, 2012)

Your on the right track, do as much of the prep work as you can like grinding out the bondo so all he has to do is weld.

BTW: Welcome to TinBoats :WELCOME:


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## mcateercustom (Aug 11, 2012)

Great! I'm gonna work on pulling out the old transom today. What are the big vents on the stern? Do I need them?


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## spotco2 (Aug 11, 2012)

The big vents allow air to circulate in the area under the rear deck where the battery and fuel tank is. If you keep them back there, then yes you need to keep the vents.

Those cracks are pretty big but it looks like someone has been in that transom before.

There are plenty of well documented Tracker transom rebuilds here, so you're in luck.

Under those decks you will find the nastiest bunch of waterlogged foam you have ever seen. I (and everyone else) would suggest pulling those decks and floor and getting that stuff out and replacing it. 

Congrats on the boat. It can be a very rewarding project to rebuild it.

Those old Trackers are fishing machines.


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## mcateercustom (Aug 11, 2012)

Hey thanks spotco2! I know now that someone has been in there. I am still super excited can't wait to get it back together! I would have never been able to tackle this without all the great folks on this forum! I worked about 7 hours on it today, here's what I got done. Oh and that water logged foam junk sux! #-o 






Pulled the cables out. Somebody had some junkie wiring going on! 






Pulled motor off.





Plan on putting some good bracing here, and a thick plate for the motor bolts.





The motor was just as freakin heavy as I thought it would be! Thank goodness it runs good! 





Got the top cut. I wish there was something creative I could do with the huge looking vents open to ideas! 





Got that transom out not to much a problem. I think I got lucky. It was pretty rotten though. I cut all the rivets pretty easy with a hammer and an old 1 1/2" wood chisel. Popped me right off. 





Old and ragged! Try and keep it in one piece so I can trace out the new one. My idea on the new one was to take two 5/8 plywood, put fiberglass mat between with resin, fasten together with screws and then cut to shape. Then I was going to resin over the whole thing. Think this will work? 





Cleaned out the back. Grinder with 1/16 inch wheel works great to cut aluminum! 





Pulled seats and carpet out and HOLY COW!!! No rotten wood!! Instead it has a wonderful aluminum floor =D> 





In fact everything is aluminum even all the front.






Pretty clean underneath. Won't take much prep.





The rivets on the bottom look great needs a good washing!





Finally ready to deal with that crappy foam! 





Tons of that junk!! If anyone ever does this, let me recommend a sharp shooter shovel, it worked wonders! 





7 hours later it is finally gutted! 






Next I plan on doing the sides and the front. Then on to a great pressure washing bath! 
I'll post some more pics when I get there! Thanks for the support guys and I'm still open to any suggestions of advice! If anyone is new to this, know that you can do it with just a little drive and determination. Oh and tears to if you pull the motor off by hand! :mrgreen:


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## spotco2 (Aug 12, 2012)

WOW! You've got some mad demo skillz to get all of that done so quick.

Those aluminum floors are great. Check the ribs for cracks.

What did the inside of the floor look like where that bondo patch was?


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## mcateercustom (Aug 12, 2012)

Thanks man I am very driven since this is my first boat. I am ready to fish!! I haven't inspected it real close back there as when I got this far I was tired and ready to go home lol. I'll check though. Say I fill it with water and find some leaky rivets, whats the best way to fix one? Or 15 :mrgreen: 

Also anybody know the best way to clean the aluminum? I want to paint or coat the inside under the floor with something, considering I plan on keeping it forever and want the hull to be well protected.


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## Zum (Aug 12, 2012)

Nice job on the demo.
Was the foam really wet?


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## mcateercustom (Aug 12, 2012)

Yes sir Zum!! It was wetter then water! Maybe the bottom 4 inches were soaked! It was pouring out. I was planing on putting some 2 inch closed cell building insulation in there to replace it all any suggestions on what kind are welcome. Or if any of you know a good forum post.


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## f4imatt (Aug 12, 2012)

Looks like you are on the right track! Cant wait to see all of the updates!


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## DaveInGA (Aug 12, 2012)

You're doing great, don't get discouraged and keep working on it. Eventually it'll get done.


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## Captain Ard (Aug 13, 2012)

Lotta work done so far....great job. 

I've been thinking about what and how to put the foam back in on my boat. I was thinking I could use a 2 part urethane foam and encapsulate it in some sort of bag so it won't ever get wet. Problem is the foam can reach like 250 degrees and I dont know if a plastic bag can withstand the heat. Looking forward to your solution.


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## mcateercustom (Aug 13, 2012)

Thanks for all the encouragement! It's great to have great people to help. I have also been wondering about foam I plan on researching alot today. Maybe something willcome up. Do you have a link to your restore?


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## mcateercustom (Aug 13, 2012)

Well I didn't have long to work on it today, but did manage to get the front deck off! I want to do something creative in the area of storage compartments up front. But i dont know how much foam is supposed to go back in. The floor part didnt have any so i am planning on putting some there to. I plan on putting some rod tubes in on the left side. And also a battery up there just for TM and spotlight. Here's some recent pics.






Got the side off, there was foam behind them but it wasn't stuck to the boat thank goodness! 





Great more foam to take out! I'll be glad when this junk is gone. This foam was real squishy. Kinda like playdough. 





Got the front deck completely removed and all the foam GONE =D> I decided to leave the very front cross wall in because it was riveted to the actual bottom of the boat, and I didn't want to mess with it. 

Now ready for tomorrow. I plan on pressure washing it and cleaning it up. Anybody know a good cleaner for aluminum? I also checked it for leaks. None of the rivets leaked!! But the bottom of the stern leaks a little around the plug whole and a little around the bondo spot when I get the top all clean I plan on turning it over and scraping it off. I also got some Glue ready to glue up the transom. This is what I think everybody uses.






I was thinking I could put the glue on the wood roll it on, and fasten the two pieces together reall good with wood screws acting as my clamp. Any reason that wouldn't work? I will then cover transom with layers of epoxy resin, kinda hard to find locally so I will have to order I guess. Anybody know a good place? Thanks and I'll add some more pics tomorrow.


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## spotco2 (Aug 14, 2012)

Looking good so far.

Alumabrite is a fantastic aluminum cleaner. You might have to order it. Play with the dilution a little and you'll know when you have it right. 

https://www.auroramarine.com/aurora/catalog/alumabrite/index.php?cat=2

Since you are not leaking from any rivets you do not need to rebuck or replace any of them. That's a good thing! I would coat the inside of the boat along all seams and rivets with Gluvit Epoxy Water Sealer. It's slippery stuff so a lot of people use it on the bottom of their river runner boats. It seals very well, seeps into cracks and seams and will flex if the hull does. The only bad part is it is not UV resistant so it would need to be painted over or covered with something if in a sunny part of the boat. Proper prep is the key to getting this stuff to stick and work.

https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2091

You can apply the glue that you have, use contact cement or epoxy them together and then wrap in glass and resin. Be sure to account for the thickness of the resin when you assemble so that your finished product will fit inside the transom cap. 

When you cut your boards, cut them a few inches to big. Apply an even coat of adhesive to both pieces and if using glue or epoxy and set one carefully on top of the other. Your top board is going to slip and slide and will not just stay in place even with constant pressure. Use a couple of brads outside your final cut lines to keep your boards in line with each other. You do not need to park a truck on top of them to clamp them together. This will force all of the glue out from between the two pieces. Just apply even pressure until you start to squeeze glue out from all sides and you should be fine. A few gallon jugs of water or a few concrete blocks will be plenty of weight. Let your glue dry, make your final cuts and make sure to wrap the edges with plenty of glass and resin.

Make sure to use stainless hardware to reattach the transom boards and a little 5200 on them when you insert them into the holes. Some people will cut the holes larger than needed and fill with epoxy, then redrill through that just to make sure there is no way that any water will ever be able to penetrate the wood again. Overkill? Yeah, probably but something to think about.

Here's a good place to get epoxy and they have a good boat forum also.

https://boatbuildercentral.com/categories.php?id=50


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## mcateercustom (Aug 14, 2012)

Well I got some Alumabrite ordered and some Gluvit and I also ordered some US composite epoxy befor I read this lol I got my transome glued together I just used what I had I also used screws to clamp it I don't really think it will matter as long as they are not in the way of bolts or rivets. Most of it won't be seen and I will end up coating it with some bed liner anyway. Here's what I did.





Make sure you have all your stuff ready to go. I also recommend getting a bucket of water to clean up this squeeze out. That stuff goes everywhere #-o 





I used the whole container of glue for this one! 





Make sure and spread the glue all the way to the edges. Make sure and cover everything. I used a sponge that I had prewetted a little. Worked great. 





Here's the way I clamped mine together. You don't have to do it this way but it worked great for me. I will remove any screw that is in the way of bolts or rivets. The screw holes will be filled with resin anyway. This way will defiantly get it done. Glue was everywhere! 


Thanks spotco for those sources! I can't wait to get that Alumabrite. I'm ready to see all this stuff start coming back together! I was also planning on painting the aluminum where the transom goes with the Gluvit. You think that will be good? I just noticed spots where the aluminum starts to get powdery and I wanted to coat it with something and figured that would work good. Ill cut out my transom tomorrow. Thanks for the big help!


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## spotco2 (Aug 14, 2012)

Yup, Gluvit everywhere inside that is questionable.

If it was me I'd go ahead and remove all those screws before you start resin. That way they will not in the way of anything when it comes time to cut, drill and install. After the glue dries, they are not going to be doing anything but sitting there anyways.


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## mcateercustom (Aug 14, 2012)

Sure thing man! I had thought about that but wasnt sure. I'm glad you said something.


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## mcateercustom (Aug 16, 2012)

Well I haven't gotto work on this but a few minutes today. I am anxious about my epoxy and stuff coming in. Shipping takes to long! I did mark out my old transom it's better to cut a little at a time till you get it right. And remember the right tool for the job works wonders! 





Got it marked. Be aware of spots that are rotted off. I had some crooked lines at first :mrgreen: 





Way to small for this cut.Better get a bigger band saw





:mrgreen: you know this maybe overkill! 





This is more like it! 

I'll take some more pics when I get a chance to. I thought a little humor would be ok.


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## HBT Chris (Aug 16, 2012)

That's quite a project you have going! Keep up the good work, I've enjoyed reading so far. 8)


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## Captain Ard (Aug 17, 2012)

mcateercustom....I have been doing a little looking around about floatation thing and found a little outside the box solution. Give me your take on this idea. They make a *thin walled* PVC for non or low pressure plumbing. I was looking at SDR 41 in either 6" or 4" capped off on both ends or filed with foam and capped so you wouldn't have to worry about breach. I'm not sure the the buoyancy factor of air compared to foam so I wouldn't know which would be best but I would think air would be as buoyant as you can get. It is a Class 100 meaning working pressure of 100 PSI. I figure it can be cut to length, installed anywhere and taped together so it won't rattle. 

This was the quote: _..."Another possibility would be to install thin-wall PVC drain-tile pipe (not schedule 40 pipe. This stuff is thinner, lighter, cheaper) capped off. As I figure is, a 4" tube X 10 feet would have 54, while 6" would have 150 pounds of buoyancy in freshwater."_

https://www.livingreefs.com/very-thin-walled-pvc-get-t8345.html

What do you think?


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## mcateercustom (Aug 17, 2012)

You know this gets me to thinking! I just wonder. Have you seen the ping pong ball thing? Myth busters did a show on it. It all seems like it would work because air is better than foam, if you could get enough air packed in and around everything. You would defiantly have to get them held down by something to keep the noise down. I think that we should start a topic on foam vs air and see if you come up with any great ideas. Surely there would be a lot of them. The thin walled PVC around in my area is called CPVC. I may check into all this it sounds like it might not be a bad idea, you maybe on to something. 

I have a question about foam. Everybody always talks about how foam takes on water. But I say what about the foam that holds floating docks up? That stuff I have seen in a lake for 20 years and it's still floating. My only thing is gas spills might destroy it, but could we not just bag it and with what kind of bag? I could fit a lot of that stuff around the front and then around the back maybe go your route. Or what about packing peanuts? Lol I'm sure that air would be great if you knew how much you needed but I am defiantly not a math guy. Could you use a flexible pipe? For that matter do they make a flexible pipe?


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## trueblue1970 (Aug 18, 2012)

Coming along nicely....look forward to following


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## whiteboots16 (Aug 18, 2012)

Man I'm haveing the same concerns about foam as you. I'm about to redo mine, and it has hardley any foam at all in it. I'm suprised the thing even floats.


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## Zum (Aug 18, 2012)

whiteboots16 said:


> Man I'm haveing the same concerns about foam as you. I'm about to redo mine, and it has hardley any foam at all in it. I'm suprised the thing even floats.


Foam doesn't help it float,it actually adds weight.
It's only when your boat becomes swamped,that the foam helps.It keeps the boat from going to the bottom and perhaps giving you a place to hang on until help comes.


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## mcateercustom (Aug 18, 2012)

What kind of boat do you have?


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## whiteboots16 (Aug 18, 2012)

It's a commercial grade 1648 semi-v.


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## mcateercustom (Aug 18, 2012)

Cool deal. Nice boat! I am really just thinking sheets of styrofoam from home depot or lowes. The only drawback is fuel will make it melt. But to get by that I was thinking of spaying it with "epoxy resin" not the other resin it will melt it too. After I coat it really good I was thinking about bagging it in plastic just to make sure. I really think that it would work good. I might try some captured air tubes that were mentioned in some spots. The foam I don't think will take on water as long as its the same kind they use on floating docks. I haven't even heard anyone mention that. But they stay in lakes for years and years and dont get water logged. Just keep looking and digging, tons of great ideas out there?


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## inlovewithsurfin (Aug 19, 2012)

youve got a great boat there! i think my next boat will be a tracker if im lucky!  cant wait to see how she turns out! keep up the good work!


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## BigTerp (Aug 20, 2012)

Looking good man!! Those transoms are a pain in the butt. I sure am thankfull mine is almost done.


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## mcateercustom (Aug 21, 2012)

Thanks guys! I'm totally in love with it already! Can't wait to see it done, but really enjoying what it takes to get it there. I got my epoxy in today! I ordered from US Composites too. That stuff works great and super easy with the pumps! Here's my transom





Left my drill at work, had to do it the old fashion way! Here I am removing my extremely expensive and effective wood clamps! :mrgreen: Note: if you care or if this part on yours is seen, do not use my clamping method! 





Turned out great! Brushes on nicely. This is the first coat, I plan on using the whole bottle of resin. Maybe I'll get 3-4 coats on. 

When I got the boat the transoms aluminum was ripped. I think they forgot to put the transom saver up plus the wood was rotten pretty good. I have decided to take drastic measures to make sure it doesn't happen again lol! 





My Ibeam brace! I found this cool little Ibeam behind the shop, no telling where it came from but I plan on putting some transom support from it to my jack plate bolts. I tend to over kill sometimes :mrgreen: 











Here's a close up of how I fit it to the rib or whatever you call it lol. I plan on putting a bolt through the side and maybe a rivet through the top. 






At least Bam-Bam is getting some use out of this boat! 


That's all I had time to do today but I plan on hitting it hard tomorrow! So far I have about 11 hours in all on it. And probably about $150 in resin, glue, Gluvit And Alumabrite. Which should be here tomorrow. And I have another surprise coming tomorrow if all works out, can't wait!! 

Other then the boat I did manage to make a duck call today. 





I like it!


I would like to say Thanks to all the help and support! I wouldnt make it without it. Till next time! Have a great night.


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## gLoomisSR782 (Aug 21, 2012)

wow you're really putting the hammer down on that thing, it's gonna be awesome


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## theyyounggun (Aug 21, 2012)

Im in the process of doing my build. At tractor supply they get big blocks of closed cell foam from the shipping of their utility trailers. I went by last sunday and they said to come back wednesday cause thats when they get a new shipment and they would have some. FREE :mrgreen: so you might want to check that out.


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## mcateercustom (Aug 21, 2012)

Man that sounds like a great idea I'm defiantly gonna need some! Thanks for letting me know! 


Well I got about 30 mins of work done today cause I was busy all day doing non boat stuff ](*,) 

But here is what I got done. I did however get enough stuff together to keep my boat work going for a while. 

I started this morning stripping the console. This is what I used. 





Be careful about getting this stuff on your skin. It does not feel great! 


It seems to work pretty good. I'm still having to sand it afterwards and clean with acetone befor priming. This is all the actual work I got done.





I will post more when I get to it. 

Now for the surprise I have been waiting for! And the reason I got pulled away from the above work. 

My new trolling motor!!! \/ 
I have always wanted a minnkota. I found what I call a heck of a deal. It was brand new never opened which I was thinking the warrenty may still apply. Maybe. It has the card in it but I don't know what to put down for where I bought it, cause it was from a person not a business. Anywho it's a foot controlled 50lb for $350 I couldn't pass her up. 





Coolers are going to be livewells I hope! 


All purty and new like! 






Here is what I am planning for my live wells. 






I got to thinking about the whole cooler thing. I found two coolers for free so I think I am going to try it and just see how it turns out. They are a little taller then my original deck but I think I can make them work. They will be hooked up just like a regular livewell and not the cooler kit(no offense) lol. I am thinking I can remove the lids and set the decking right down on top of them. I will foam around a little just to add some good support. I am thinking of a good way to put my deck on top of them maybe glass really good the area that would be the top of the live wells. There would be two which I like. And then I could just seal them real good where the fiberglass meets the top of the cooler. Then......Man there's a lot of steps lol ..... Then cut the wholes for the tempress hatches. I think it will work because it will look good on top and pretty much cover everything underneath with foam anyway. I still can have my professional look but it would cost a lot either. I didnt pay anything for the coolers so if I screw it up all I have lost is a little time. They fit perfectly between the ribs.







Last but not least I got some stuff in the mail finally ready to use it! 





I will see if I can actually get in a good days work tomorrow! Have a good night guys!


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## Captain Ard (Aug 22, 2012)

You ain't messing around with this boat, I'm impressed. Are you going to use the Gluvit on the transom? 

BTW nice catch on the TM!


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## mcateercustom (Aug 22, 2012)

Thanks Cap. I am planning on putting that stuff all over everything lol. I have heard it doesn't work on vertical
But I'm gonna try anyway. I am mostly just gonna make sure it gets all ove the ribs and corners of the boat the only reason I want it on th transom is because of very small pitting and I want to make sure it gets covered I thought about paint a little between the transom wood and aluminum. Tons more to do. I need to hurry and get on the water!


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## rivercity (Aug 22, 2012)

Lookin good!. That's a lot of work you have done. Glad mine has an all aluminum transom, though I have had several glass boats w/ wood. And yes, people do tend to sell their problems rather than fixing them. I guess that is why I never have good luck selling stuff or when I do, I sell it too cheap. I always tell them everything wrong that I know of. 

Arkansas? What part? I'm in Little Rock and we use the boat mostly on the White River near Mountain View. Depending on your timeframe, I might know another aluminum welder at $40 or $45/hour. It is an older guy that came into my body shop late last year. I took an iphone pic of his hat which had his company name and number. I think around Morgan or Mayflower. Been doing it forever and had done a gazillion boats. I'm planning on looking for that pic for my needs.


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## mcateercustom (Aug 22, 2012)

I'm from down south. In a place called Bodcaw. It's about 15 miles south of hope, so I don't know if it would be that much of a savings to bring it up there considering gas, but I really appreciate the help. I don't think it should take more than an hour or two for what I need done. However if it takes a lot long I would consider coming up that way. I used to hunt on the white river up north its nice up that way. My sister lives in mayflower, may convince her to bring my boat up that way lol.


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## BigTerp (Aug 22, 2012)

Your really knocking it out man, nice work!!! Sweet deal on that trolling motor as well. Craigslist??

I had some pitting on my transom as well. I just sanded really well and hit it with 3 coats of self etching primer. Thinking maybe some of my left over epoxy might work well there??

Keep the pictures coming. Looking forward to seeing how she turns out.


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## mcateercustom (Aug 22, 2012)

Thanks man!

Yep! Craigslist is great! I think im going to apply left over epoxy on mine to just because it sounds like it would work.


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## DJBombar (Aug 23, 2012)

Boat is looking great and so is the duck call!!!!!!!!


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## mcateercustom (Aug 23, 2012)

Thanks man, you should order 20 or so!?!? 

Well I still haven't had much time but I managed to get it preped for the welder tomorrow.

If you look at the flat spot there, you will see a small bump. The's were all over the place from the various rives and screw holes. I needed them smooth so I used a hammer and an old auto body tool. Any heavy flat piece would have worked. Just put the flat piece against the outside and hammer the inside. Worked great! I have hammered hot steel before and aluminum is awesome! So easy to work with! Here's the tools! 






Here's the bump. 






This is a crap load of silicone! They were serious about it! lol 







And a ton of bondo! 






And after three hours of chipping,hammering,cursing,sanding,hand sanding, cursing, wire brushing,grunting and maybe a little more cursing, I managed to get through the half inch thick jb weld and silicone and bondo! I broke out everything but the air hammer! Lol


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## spotco2 (Aug 24, 2012)

Looking great!

Here's a tip for getting old bondo out. A propane torch will cause it to break free and fall off in chunks. Some will burn but most will just fall off.


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## theyyounggun (Aug 25, 2012)

Its lookin great! =D> Hey I didnt realize you were from Arkansas. Im in Conway.

Hey rivercity PM sent.


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## mcateercustom (Aug 25, 2012)

Heck! Conway ain't that far off! Maybe we can hit a lake if I'm ever up that way!


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## Rippen Lips (Aug 27, 2012)

Hope... now I am convinced you are a Clinton. :wink:
That makes 4 of us from central , south Arkansas. I can see a little friendly competition in the future.


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## mcateercustom (Aug 27, 2012)

Hahaha! I have heard that one a lot lol! :lol: I would love to do some fishing with some good ol boys from Arkansas. Need to finish my boat first though. I haven't fished out of a boat in probably 5 or 6 years! I'm probably pretty rusty but it would be a lot of fun no matter!


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## rivercity (Aug 27, 2012)

Rippen Lips said:


> Hope... now I am convinced you are a Clinton. :wink:
> That makes 4 of us from central , south Arkansas. I can see a little friendly competition in the future.



Make that 5. 

BTW my old next door neighbor in Atlanta was a dead ringer too. Then I found out he was adopted ...


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## Captain Ard (Sep 21, 2012)

How's the boat coming along?


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## mcateercustom (Sep 29, 2012)

Captain Ard said:


> How's the boat coming along?



Man I have been busy but I did get some welding done! I plan on getting back to it Monday or so I will post up some more pics. A good combination of busy and procrastination can keep you held back lol.


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## jmcaswell (Nov 25, 2012)

Great work! About to start a new mod and wondered If you had picked a paint process yet?


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## hueydr (Jan 14, 2013)

What happened? We all need to see this finished!!!


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