# 17ft Bass Tracker CRACKED HULL



## Sailor Jules (Aug 16, 2013)

Hello all! I picked up a great little 17ft Bass Tracker from a friend, he upgraded to a nice new sleek tracker 4 years ago and this one had been sitting since then. His wife wanted it out and I needed a boat, great timing for me!
So... I have started pulling apart the entire interior to get to the ribs and spars along the hull, no obvious damage but he did tell me that it has some leaks. 
My plan is to seal the hull and rivets, what would be the best sealant to use for this job? I have seen a number of posts mention Gluv-It Epoxy around the rivets.
I have been drilling out all of the interior aluminum around the aft livewell, fuel tank storage area, and rear floats, etc. Any recommendations on where to purchase rivets, or what specific rivets Bass Tracker used when producing these boats? I will need to look up which specific make and model of my boat and I will post that in a future post. 
What is the best foam to use to replace the stuff I am digging out? I see there are sheets of foam under the wooden deck, Livewell, and fuel compartment panel. Is the stuff from Lowes or Homedepot acceptable?
What is the best spray foam or expanding foam to use in the bow and aft side sections? 
Originally this boat came with carpet and my buddies dad began recarpeting the bow about a year ago, Ive got enough carpet to finish the boat, but after checking out some posts I see some folks are choosing a non-skid type paint. The non-skid is probably super easy to hose off after a few days/nights of fishing and I wanted some thoughts on what you guys out there preferred. 
So to recap...
Sealant - 
Rivets - 
Carpet/non-skid -
Thanks guys!
Pics dont want to download at work, ill post them later tonight.


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## Ranchero50 (Aug 16, 2013)

For the most part read the threads on these forums for most answers.

Post up some pictures with specific questions.

Trackers were mass produced cheapened hulls. They were built to go together cheaply and quickly. Don't expect anything to come apart easily though.

Good luck and post some pics.


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## Sailor Jules (Aug 17, 2013)

Day 1 consisted of pulling the bow section apart, I put about 2 solid hours of work into her. Very rewarding! Day 2 my fishing buddy Devan came over to lend a hand and earn his spot on the fishing rig. We put about 6 hours combined into day 2. Pulled the console, floorboard, side panels, the most of the hull foam.


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## Sailor Jules (Aug 17, 2013)

Last night 8/15/13 I began working on the aft interior section around the fuel cell. I drilled out all of the interior rivets and pulled the livewell and all other aft panels. Tomorrow I will tackle the port and stbd aft float sections.


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## Sailor Jules (Aug 17, 2013)

The demo portion of this boat has been really simple, I've invested 19 hours into the project so far including tonight 8/16/13. Tonight we had to cut the port and stbd aft float sections, it was the only way I could figure to remove the foam. So cuts were made, into the float sections and we removed the foam. Much easier after we decided to cut the panels, we picked up rivets and a strip of aluminum from Lowes and I will join the cut sections together when I begin the rebuild.


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## Sailor Jules (Aug 18, 2013)

Pulled the boat out into the drive way to clean and inspect the hull and BAD NEWS. I found cracks along 4 of the main ribs. I need to speak with a boat repair professional to determine what to do next. I was a helicopter mechanic in the Navy for 8 years and if this were a helicopter we would stop drill the holes, drill out the rivets, remove the beams (ribs in this case), cut out and patch the skin, then replace the ribs. 
On this boat do I need to remove the ribs and repair it like I stated above? 
Or can I simply stop drill the cracks and have someone tig weld the external skin?
Has anyone else encountered cracks like this with their Pro 17?


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## Kochy (Aug 18, 2013)

Keep the pics coming! Its looking good so far! Check out my build which is a MV-16 Tracker if you want some ideas.

Just saw the post you posted before me, Dang! Yeah check with a professional for that, on mine, I had some ribs cracked, not the actual hull cracked.


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## Sailor Jules (Aug 18, 2013)

Thanks Kochy, I'll take a look at your boat.


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## Ranchero50 (Aug 18, 2013)

I'd only invest the time / work into the repair vs. the time you expect to use that hull. 

If you are only going to run it a couple years and upgrade. 5200 it and go. If you are going to keep it 3-5 years, I'd flip it and get the bottom welded. If you keep it longer than 5 years I'd get the ribs extended up the side of the hull like how most other boats are built. You know how far you are into it now with the decking so it's on the bubble whether it's patched and sold or fixed correctly. 

I would not just get the hull welded. I'd at the very least get the ribs extended so the floor doesn't crack out again. As said above, Trackers are pretty on the outside and cheapened where it matters.


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## Sailor Jules (Aug 18, 2013)

Ranchero, I don't think it would be too much trouble to pull the ribs, have a friend weld the cracks, fabricate ribs that extend up the side to offer support, reinstall the ribs. I need to get in touch with my friends with welders before I make too many plans. It was a buzz kill today though to find all those cracks, but hey that's why I started ripping into in the first place, my buddy told me it had a leak...


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## Ranchero50 (Aug 18, 2013)

Welp, since most of the pain in these repairs is mental it sounds like your in a good state of mind do to it right. Post up some pics of the fun.


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## Sailor Jules (Aug 19, 2013)

What do you guys know about HTS-2000, is it legit or some kind of cheap fix? I could get that stuff and have the cracks fixed in a matter of minutes w/o having to find a person to do my welding.
https://www.aluminumrepair.com/


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## Flatbotm (Aug 19, 2013)

I would spend the money to have it welded up. If you were close I'd weld it up for you. In theory the brazing like hts2000 would work. But the fatigue strength of brazing is not near that of welding. I wouldn't want to spend the money on expensive brazing rod to have it crack again.


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## Sailor Jules (Aug 19, 2013)

So I decided to do this the right way and drill out the ribs. Took the boat to a friends shop and I drilled out the 4 ribs with the cracks. On Wednesday I am going to clean and prep everything and he will patch and weld the cracked areas. We also talked about extending the ribs up the side of the hull to strengthen everything. Hopefully my next post is of the patches welded in and the ribs riveted back into place.
P.S. as of now I have 25 hours invested into the project.


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## Sailor Jules (Aug 21, 2013)

OK worked on the boat for about 2 hours tonight, fabricated some sheets of aluminum to strengthen the ribs and cleaned everything up so that I can epoxy the aluminum sheets to the deck prior to mounting and riveting the ribs. The hull will get patched and welded in the next few days. Pictures to come...


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## magoo (Aug 22, 2013)

good call on getting it welded up. I also have a tracker that is probably in the same condition and wouldn't consider anything but fixing it properly if needed. I wish my tracker was that size.


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## Bubenhee (Aug 23, 2013)

Sailor Jules,

I will be starting a similar project when it cools down (I live in Mesa). I am interested in the materials and where you bought them for your restoration.

Eric


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## Buckethead (Aug 23, 2013)

Sailor Jules, I replaced all the rivets I drilled out with a 1/4" stainless steel button head bolt with nylon washers to prevent the stainless steel from contacting the aluminum, I used 3M 5200 adhesive on each one and finished it off with a stainless steel nylock nut. I've had no problems with them and don't anticipate that I will. It seemed like the thing to do since I was not planning on bucking rivets. My project is not finished yet but it is on the water. This fall and winter I'm going to get all the plumbing, electrical and storage done so next spring it will be like I want it. Enjoy your build, Go Navy!


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## Sailor Jules (Aug 26, 2013)

Bubenhee, Buckethead, Magoo - as of now I havent spent more than a few dollars on things. In the next few days ill be looking into purchasing a 2 part bonding adhesive to place between the ribs and the hull and onto each rivet prior to being bucked. I need to buy solid rivets, pay my welder friend some cash for his assistance, and then I can really begin on the rebuild. Ill go with the blue polystyrene sheets from Lowes, I need to look up and order liquid/spray foam (any suggestions out there?), i'll pick up some marine grade 1/2 inch plywood for the main deck, ive already got marine carpet at home so ill buy some sort of adhesive to secure it to the deck. I need to buy blind rivets to replace/rebuild the aft section and live well area. 

These are the next few steps...


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## Ranchero50 (Aug 26, 2013)

Don't use 3/4 ply for decking, it's too dang heavy dry and only gets worse once it soaks up some water after a few years.


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## Sailor Jules (Aug 26, 2013)

This is the epoxy McMasterCarr suggested I use to secure the aluminum strengthening supports to the hull and the ribs to the strengthening supports.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/3394/=o8jdgr


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## Ranchero50 (Aug 26, 2013)

I've used the Devcon stuff before, it's great for repairing castings but it doesn't flex at all. I would expect it to delaminate from flex on aluminum ribs or flooring. For a sealant before bucking I'd do 3m's 5200. The 5200 is a nasty good adhesive that will flex and stay sealed.


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## Sailor Jules (Sep 23, 2013)

The cracks have been welded ($100) and the rivets are on order. As soon as they arrive I will start riveting the ribs back into place, I picked up the 3M 5200 to use as my sealant $22 per tube at West Marine. Ive been discussing spray lining the entire interior hull, I may do that to seal it prior to putting in the foam and my floorboards.


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## Ranchero50 (Sep 23, 2013)

Lowes carries the 5200 now, probably at a considerable savings vs. Worst Marine.


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## Sailor Jules (Oct 9, 2013)

I have been away for awhile, but the project continues. The Ribs and supports have been sealed (5200) riveted back into place. I paid about $22 a tube at West Marine for the 5200, bought the rivets from Grainger (ill give you price and size of the rivets when I get home later), paid a friend to help me buck the rivets, he held the bucking bar and is helping with some other repairs $80. Next im debating spraying the interior of the boat with a protective enamel before rebuilding the internal structures.


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## Sailor Jules (Nov 15, 2013)

Hello all,
Ive been away for awhile, busy with work etc... But today is a day off and im off to Lowes to pick up some supplies, the Blue Poly foam, 1/2 plywood for the deck, Blind Rivets. Ill be doing wiring checks for lights, ensuring my plumbing and bilge pumps work, and ordering the expanding foam.
Pictures to follow.


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## Sailor Jules (Nov 20, 2013)

All, I am at the point in the rebuild where I want to add some storage in the bow section of my 17ft Bass Tracker. Has anyone found a sight that sells the metal or plastic framing so that I can add the storage much like the newer boats have? Id like to find a similar compartment to what is found on the newer trackers. Or have you guys built your own forward storage compartment? 
An update, I bought foam from a place here in Phoenix, Owens Corning polystyrene pink Foamular 250 1.5 inches thick. 2 sheets 4x8ft for about $50. The stuff floats really well too, I placed 2 sheets on top of each other in the pool and began adding weight to it. The 2 sheets held 130 pounds, I added a 44lb kettle bell and it began to sink. 
I need to pick up some additional carpet, I don't have enough to do the main deck, I had a lot from the previous boat owner but ill be using that on all the other carpeted areas. I need that last 4x8 section for the main deck, whats the best carpet to use, which website or store, or who has some carpeting in their garage they are wanting to get rid of?
Pictures to follow...


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## Sailor Jules (Nov 21, 2013)

These are the updated photos


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## mrmr56 (Nov 29, 2013)

Do you have any pics of the repair and modifications to the ribs on your boat? I am in the same boat but I am still trying to figure out the correct fix. I did notice looking at MMF's build that his boat came with some braces attached to the top of the ribs and riveted to the sides in the same area. I think the factory was hit or miss on bracing. I guess we got a Monday or Friday built boat.


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## Sailor Jules (Dec 2, 2013)

Ill take a few pictures of the repair and get them posted for you too see.


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## mrmr56 (Dec 2, 2013)

I will certainly appreciate the effort. I don't want to turn it upside down but one time. Thanks


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## Sailor Jules (Dec 10, 2013)

mrmr56 - I apologize for the delay in posting. I am attaching photos of the repairs.
I removed the ribs, had a friend weld the cracks, I added the pieces of aluminum which we riveted between the hull and the rib and ran them up the sides of the boat. We applied 3M 5200 to the rivets and between the hull and ribs. Not the prettiest job, but it should work.
Next major step is to put her into the water and see if there are any leaks. Then ill feel comfortable putting the new floorboard in and really putting the final touches on the rebuild.


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## mrmr56 (Dec 10, 2013)

Thanks for the pictures Jules. That is close to what I have in mind. I am just waiting for the weather to warm up a little bit from this cold snap. I have the aluminum sheared and ready to go. You might also check your trailer for flex. I have rebuilt a c channel trailer to put mine on when I get through. I have owned about 25 different boats in my life and I have never had a trailer with as much flex as the Trailstar trailer has. Even without the boat on it, it flexes up and down a couple of inches. Add the weight of water logged foam and I can only imagine the stress and vibration that the boat was going through. I will post some pictures when I get through. Again, thanks for the effort. Let me know how your repairs work out when you put it in the water. Charles


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## Gators5220 (Dec 17, 2013)

Nice job thus far, lookin clean.


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## Sailor Jules (Jan 12, 2014)

Its been a busy holiday season with lots of traveling, but im back and back to work on the boat. The seats are at the upholstery shop and Ive ordered a large piece of carpeting for the main deck, ill pick up the carpet and seats on Tuesday and get them put in this week/weekend. I need to find a one way drain (scupper) for the main deck before I hard mount it to the beams. Ive been busy carpeting everything and getting the pieces lined up to be riveting back in. I haven't started chasing wires yet, but I will do that this weekend. Then taking the boat into a mechanic friend to give the motor a once over. Lets see, Im debating if I am going to paint the exterior of the hull, leave it aluminum or perhaps red below the water line and Battleship Gray above...


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## crabsandbottlecaps (Jan 14, 2014)

After pulling out the foam how did u clean up the aluminum was it just elbow grease and soap or pressure wash


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## Sailor Jules (Jan 15, 2014)

Yes, after pulling out the foam I used a heavy bristle nylon brush, a scouring pad, a wire brush on the end of my drill, and a sanding pad on the end of my drill. I vacuumed along the way to ensure I kept a clean working area, I removed the old glue from the panels with the sanding pad and wire brush prior to applying the glue and carpeting everything. 
Lesson learned: ensure you know how the aluminum panels overlap prior to carpeting and riveting, some panels you may even want to glue the section that will be covered and then install your rivets prior to gluing the rest of the carpet into place. There are a few sections on my boat where I have had to rivet through the carpet, thus leaving the rivet head exposed above the carpet.


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## Sailor Jules (Jan 17, 2014)

Just put the scupper into the floorboard, mounted the floorboard, mounted the console, currently taking a beer break then about to get to work on the cover for the steering cables and then mount the seats. Tomorrow ill have to buy more long rivets, 3/8 blind rivets and continue riveting the aluminum for the aft deck. If I can get that portion done this weekend, ill take the boat to my mechanic and let him fish around with the wiring and tune up the engine. Goal is to be fishing by February! Pics will get posted later tonight!


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## Sailor Jules (Jan 18, 2014)

Felt a great sense of accomplishment last night once I got the seats mounted and sat down to have a beer, almost ready to put her in the water!
Taking the battery to get charged and going to be working on the aft deck area today, wish me luck, lots of cursing in my future.


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## Ranchero50 (Jan 19, 2014)

Yep, life is so much more fulfilling when you can sit in your boat and make motor noises. =D>


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## Sailor Jules (Jan 22, 2014)

Put the battery in the boat and she fired right up! Motor hasnt ran in 3 or 4 years, took a little bit of carb choke cleaner, fresh fuel tank, fresh fuel, cleaned the inline fuel filter and she is a runner! Getting her registered on Friday and hopefully ill be out at the lake and in the water on Saturday and Sunday!!!

Im all smiles! 8)


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## Sailor Jules (Jan 27, 2014)

Well i'm not going to say that she is done, but she floats and is fishable! I took her out to Saguaro on Saturday, had a few problems with getting the bilge pump to turn on, a wire or fuze must have come loose while I was mounting the fuze box. She leaks from somewhere and I had to keep an eye on bilge pump and water level. Im thinking of spray lining the exterior of the hull with something to seal it. The old 35hp Mercury did great all day, but when I was coming into the dock and hit the no wake zone, she died and wouldnt hold an idle. Perhaps the carb needs to be blown out or something, the motor hadnt ran like this since 2009 and has sat for the past 3-4 years. 
Ill be hooking up the navigation lighting this week, bought a new trailer wiring kit, bought a propane grill that ill mount onto the side of the boat, need to build the bow storage, hook up the radio, and a few more odds n ends, might even take it back out this weekend, Bartlett or Pleasent...


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## Ranchero50 (Jan 27, 2014)

Floats and fishable has been good enough for me for years. I figure my carpet will be dry rotten by the time I get it installed.

Boat looks good, keep doing what you are doing.


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## crabsandbottlecaps (Jan 27, 2014)

How did u lay the foam board down did u use anything so it would stick and not move


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## Sailor Jules (Jan 31, 2014)

Thanks!

No to the foam sheets, its in there pretty secure with the floorboard sitting on top of it.


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## Sailor Jules (Mar 14, 2014)

Caught my first fish on the new boat a few days ago, a nice large mouth bass at Saguaro Lake, AZ. 

Today I started working on the Fish Finder (Eagle Fish Mark 500) and the Trolling Motor (40 Tracker Motor Guide). The previous owner had them installed so im going to follow his lead and just ensure that the connetions are still strong and operable.


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## rscottp (Mar 15, 2014)

Congrats! Can't wait to get to the first fish on my project.


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