# What's the skinny on car headlight lens polish?



## azekologi (Jun 29, 2012)

I think it's high time that I polish my car headlight lenses.

Has anyone used a polishing kit?

Is any one brand better than the next?

Good/bad experiences?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Gramps50 (Jun 29, 2012)

Several months ago Consumer reports had a comparison on several of the popular brands. I don't remember off hand the outcome but I was surprised at the results. I think I still have the issue here,if so I will look it up and report back.


----------



## IwanaFish (Jun 29, 2012)

They are very effective. Follow the instructions. Then make sure you use a plastic pollish on occasion. Makes them stay clean longer. I have used the kit from O'riellys and Autozone, both work good.

Lonny


----------



## sixgun86 (Jun 29, 2012)

I tried a product on my worst half's vehicle. They turned out pretty decent. Better than before but defiantly not a new* look.

Once you sand them down with fine grit you apply a clear epoxy? that dries clear. If you could buy a replacement head light for 50-65$ ea. it would be your best bet.


----------



## Frogman Ladue (Jun 30, 2012)

Here's what we did at the garage. We charged $40 a car, and had it down to a science. 

3 products:

Mother's professional head light restorer kit

"Lik Nu" plastic window cleaner (Stuff to clean jeep windows)

Rain-X.

Moisten polish ball, apply polishing compount to ball, smear polish on head lamp. Polish head lamp at very low speed, apply tap water via spray bottle to head lamp, keep polish "slurry" to the consistancy of milk. Continue to buff until flakes, scratches, and yellowing is removed. Allow polish to dry. Buff off remaining polish with clean rag. Apply Lik Nu as directed, this will pull the extra polish out of the small scratches, and further brighten the lens. Skip this step and the lens will look like crap. It will have the appearance of someone sanded it with 1000 grit paper. Apply Rain-X as directed to seal lens. Skit this step, the lens will yellow in about a month.

Never apply any waxes to the lens. Waxes will etch the plastic.

The idea is, don't let the lens get too gunked up. If you think you need a polish job, do it immediatly. If a lens gets too bad, there's no way to save it. Yer stuck replacing it....and those are really expensive. Also, it's a continual maintenace thing. The discoloring will come back. You will have to have it polised again.


----------



## dyeguy1212 (Jun 30, 2012)

Get the Harbor Freight set! It's not in pretty packaging like the 3M stuff, but it flat out works, and is dirt cheap. I got a kit for 10 bucks.

Sanding disc for your drill is included. Wet sand, and then polish with the polishing pad.

Literally the best 10 bucks I've ever spent. My brights blind me from the reflection off of road signs.


----------



## S&amp;MFISH (Jul 1, 2012)

I used the "Turtle Wax Headlight Lens Restorer" -$7.00 from O'Reillys. Did headlights on a '90 Escort,a "90 Taurus;turn signal and tail light lenses on a 95 GMC van; one headlight on a 00 Buick,and one headlight on a 99 Town and Country Van. Followed directions and had good results.Still have more product left. Took about an Hour to do each pair of headlights. Takes a little work,but I think it is well worth the minimal cost,as opposed to Mother's @ $26.00.


----------



## TNtroller (Jul 1, 2012)

I've used a kit from wally world, don't remember the brand. Kit included a pad you attach to a drill, I use a 18v drill, and it works good, cleans 'em up on a 05 Mazda 3, but I have to do it about every 5-6 months. Make sure you tape up the paint with masking tape or painters tape to protect the paint, and the stuff is abrasive.


----------



## baseball_guy_99 (Jul 4, 2012)

My dad and I do pretty close to what frogman does. 

We take a buffing wheel with some buffing compound, start off at a low speed and work your way up to a high speed. Wipe clean with a rag.

Then my dad has some kind of plastic restorer that he got from a friend that runs an auto body shop. Apply that and wipe clean.

Then as frogman stated use rain-ex or the lens will yellow with-in no time!


----------



## Specknreds (Jul 4, 2012)

I just stripped and waxed my bay boat with marine polish and the bottle said works on headlights. I tried it with a buffer. It actually worked. Not new condition but maybe 90% better.


----------



## azekologi (Jul 4, 2012)

Thanks guys, you've provided me with a lot of info & advice. I greatly appreciate that. I'm probably going to go with one of the Harbor Freight kits (I'm a cheap b-----d :wink and they seem like they'll do the trick.

I'll post a follow-up, and perhaps before/after pics, when I get the mini-project done.


----------



## Buddychrist (Jul 11, 2012)

I've got some hush hush specialized can of foam from 3m that I acquired from a buddy. Idk the name yet but good god it worked fantastic! It was a petroleum mix but If I can get another can I'll ship it to you


----------



## Frank ZX (Jul 11, 2012)

You can get good results from plain ultra fine grit sand paper. start with 1000 grit and finish with 5000 grit. Keep paper wet and wax with paste car wax.
Oh yea, be patient, it takes alot of time.


----------



## rivercity (Jul 30, 2012)

I had a body shop until a few months ago. You can redo yellowed headlights and it will work ... for a while at least.

My now retired 3M rep did one on my car (rebuilt total, the other side was only a year old OEM). He was pushing a $300+/- kit that had a series of small grits on small disks followed by abrasive cream and finally a protective polish. Really just a kit of various stuff 3M had been selling for years. It lasted about 2 summers before it yellowed again.

I guy I met at a conference has been doing it in San Dieago for years with 1000 grit wet and a couple coats of basic 2 part clear coat. Said he had few returns because everybody trades cars so often. Figures it works for a year or two (like 3M kit).

Also, consider that many headlights yelow from inside as well which you really cannot fix. Chrysler mini vans come to mind.

I am lukewarm on aftermarket parts. Had some good luck and have some on my cars but have had frustrations as well. But all things considered, I would rather have nice new, clear aftermarket headlights on my car than polished OEMs.


----------



## rivercity (Jul 30, 2012)

Having said all that, if you really want to do it, just sand to 1000 grit dry then wet. Blow it off and tape carfully w/ a decent masking tape and shoot a few light coats of clear on it, about 10 minutes between coats. My recommendation is Acme clear coat w/ slow dry hardener for summer. Heard you can still get it at Sherwin-Williams automotive rdealers now at $70 for a gallon cc plus quart hardener = 5 quarts. Maybe available in smaller sizes. VERY good clearcoat that was sold under Western name for years. Some NAPAs have it as well (Napa's Martin Seymore paint is private labeled sherwin). Any real 2 part poly clear coat sprayed on will last longer than any kit, IMHO. If you have access to a spray gun and a clean place to spray and you find smaller quantities, it will probably be cheaper too.

BTW bartered clearcoating a faded, peeling, sparkly bass boat years ago for some nice cabinet work. Used Acme mentioned above. Just scotchbrited boat first. Told him no guarantee over peeling sparkly stuff, but three years later he says it is still looking good.


----------

