# Tell Tale Fitting



## BigTerp (Jun 15, 2015)

Noticed water coming out of the bottom of my cowling yesterday. When I popped the hood I found my tell tale fitting "cap" had cracked and it was shooting water into the cowling. Apparently my motor (1994 Johnson 50/35) has 2 tell tale fittings. The main one with the water hose is functioning properly and has a nice strong stream of water. But this one, on the side of the crankcase water passage cover, was apparently plugged with a cap at some point. First off, I didn't realize there was another fitting. Secondly, why is it capped? Third, where can I get a new cap for it or how should I go about plugging it back up? Yesterday I just used some electrical tape I keep on board to tape the old cap on as good as I could to prevent water from getting all inside the engine.

Here is the piece in question.


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## RiverBottomOutdoors (Jun 15, 2015)

Is it a flush, maybe??


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## BigTerp (Jun 15, 2015)

RiverBottomOutdoors said:


> Is it a flush, maybe??



You might be right. When I was researching it last night I kept finding stuff about people adding a tell tale fitting to be able to flush their motors. I just need to find something to plug it back up.


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## kofkorn (Jun 15, 2015)

Could also be a fitting to attach to an in-dash pressure gauge. I'd replace the fitting with a plastic plug. The threads are 1/8" NPT. You can get a fitting online, you might be able to find one at a hardware store. 

Definitely go with the plastic to prevent galvanic corrosion. 

Good luck!


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## DaleH (Jun 15, 2015)

kofkorn said:


> Could also be a fitting to attach to an in-dash pressure gauge.


That's exactly what it is ... a *fitting to a water pressure gauge*.


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## BigTerp (Jun 15, 2015)

kofkorn said:


> Could also be a fitting to attach to an in-dash pressure gauge. I'd replace the fitting with a plastic plug. The threads are 1/8" NPT. You can get a fitting online, you might be able to find one at a hardware store.
> 
> Definitely go with the plastic to prevent galvanic corrosion.
> 
> Good luck!



Thanks!! 

That should be 3/8" though, right?

Just one of these? https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?sku=64717&gclid=CLO43ZW7qLYCFac7MgodfkoAQA


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## onthewater102 (Jun 15, 2015)

take it to the local hardware store - they usually have a board with all the different fitting sizes and thread pitches for you to thread your old one into and match up so you know what you need as a replacement...much safer than trying to guess @ home.


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## BigTerp (Jun 15, 2015)

1/8" NPT is the ticket. Did some more research and the tell tale fittings are all 1/8" npt. I'll see what I can find at Lowe's after work today. Thanks for the help!!


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## BigTerp (Jun 15, 2015)

Picked this up at Lowe's today (they didn't have any plastic ones) and it doesn't fit. Looks the exact same size and thread size of the old fitting. But it's really hard to thread into the hole. Afraid if I force it anymore than I already have I'll end up cross threading the crap out of the the hole. Any ideas?


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## Skiffing (Jun 16, 2015)

brass on aluminum?


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## BigTerp (Jun 16, 2015)

Skiffing said:


> brass on aluminum?



Yes. Just a temporary fix until I can get a proper plastic plug or figure something else out so I can get back on the water. 1/8" - 27 npt plastic plugs seem hard to find.

Need to figure something out. I'll never use that plug/port so I'm not opposed to some sort of permanent fix as well.


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## kofkorn (Jun 16, 2015)

It looks like the right one. The plug should turn in easily for about one or two turns and then tighten up. It's a tapered thread, so it doesn't go all the way in. If you can't get a half turn by hand, don't force it in. If you can get a full turn, then tighten it up and you're good to go. Normally you use teflon tape or pipe dope to lubricate the threads while tightening, but that could potentially leave something to get stuck in your cooling channels, so I'd stay away from the tape for now.

I agree with the comment above that you don't want to leave a brass plug in for long. It will definitely eat away at the aluminum around it before too long. A month or two won't be a problem though. 

Another temporary way, if you can't get the brass plug in is to take a very short piece of tubing that will fit over the original barb. Melt one end and while it's hot, clamp it with a pair of pliers to seal the end off. then you can put the other end over the barb and you've made a VERY temporary cap. Make sure to clamp or zip tie the tubing to the barb. 

Good luck!


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## BigTerp (Jun 16, 2015)

Thanks.

That seems to make sense. The brass plug would start sort of easy, but then quickly get really hard to turn in. Definitely couldn't easily get a full turn though. I used a tiny crescent wrench to work it in, but didn't want to torque it down to much for fear of breaking something.

Will a plastic plug go in easier/further than the brass? Is standard nylon OK? I can find nylon, polypropylene and Kynar ones online. $10 just to ship one of those tiny things though :shock: 

Any idea what I.D. tube I would need to fit over the original barb?

Here is what was on it before. Looks like just a sort of rubber cap. It obviously worked though, but finally cracked and deteriorated. If I could just get another one of these I would be good to go.


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## kofkorn (Jun 16, 2015)

Any material plastic plug will be fine. The plastic will go in easier because it has give to it. I wouldn't be surprised if they manufacture that hole smaller than normal pipe standards because of that reason. 

it looks like 1/4" tubing will fit, maybe 3/16". You'll need to use some type of plastic tubing though, not rubber. Rubber tubing won't melt, just burn. 

Good luck!


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## BigTerp (Jun 16, 2015)

Getting ready to pull the trigger on this. Should be what I need, right?

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?sku=64715&catid=551


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## onthewater102 (Jun 16, 2015)

I'd stick to the black nylon for the temperature range rating - your motor will be at its warmest right after you shut it down and there is no longer water circulating through it. The nylon is rated high enough that the motor shouldn't come anywhere near it's max rating, whereas the next one being rated for 226 it is entirely possible for it to warm to that point.


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## kofkorn (Jun 16, 2015)

Yep, looks good. I agree with the comments above on the black nylon. Pressure isn't a concern, you won't normally see much above 15 psi when running.


Good luck!


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## BigTerp (Jun 16, 2015)

Thanks again guys.

I had already ordered the black nylon for the same temperature reasons you all mentioned. 

Hopefully it will fix my issue!!


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## JL8Jeff (Jun 16, 2015)

Ok, you made me curious so I had to go in the garage and look at my 40 hp Evinrude. It actually has a metal plug that takes an allen wrench. It's painted along with the block so I can't tell what the material is.


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## kofkorn (Jun 16, 2015)

Probably stainless steel. Could be aluminun, but it would be easy to strip it out if it was stuck.


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## BigTerp (Jun 16, 2015)

JL8Jeff said:


> Ok, you made me curious so I had to go in the garage and look at my 40 hp Evinrude. It actually has a metal plug that takes an allen wrench. It's painted along with the block so I can't tell what the material is.



I'm guessing the water passage cover comes standard like that? Leaves the user an option to add a pressure gauge?

I never knew there was an extra fitting on mine until I saw water spewing out of the bottom of my cowling. Thought for sure something was really screwed up. Even though it's been a PITA getting it plugged up, I shouldn't complain.


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## onthewater102 (Jun 16, 2015)

About a $2 part that screws out and screws back in & wasn't frozen up??? no - you definitely should not complain! 8) 

Though this now has me wondering if having the extra fitting is common on outboards - if it is I'd really like to hook up a pressure gauge to mine. How often do you really look @ your tell after you've got the motor started initially? We all know we SHOULD but I know I certainly don't. I'd be much more likely to notice if I had a gauge in front of me that wasn't reading right.


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## kofkorn (Jun 16, 2015)

I've got one on mine, and I honestly rarely looked at it. When I did the motor swap, I didn't even bother hooking it up. 

When I did my original boat build, I found that the original factory one had been chewed through by a mouse. It was the only significant "Leak" in the boat. I replaced it at that point, but I should have just taken it out and not bothered.

one more thing to fail.


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## BigTerp (Jun 16, 2015)

onthewater102 said:


> About a $2 part that screws out and screws back in & wasn't frozen up??? no - you definitely should not complain! 8)
> 
> Though this now has me wondering if having the extra fitting is common on outboards - if it is I'd really like to hook up a pressure gauge to mine. How often do you really look @ your tell after you've got the motor started initially? We all know we SHOULD but I know I certainly don't. I'd be much more likely to notice if I had a gauge in front of me that wasn't reading right.



True!! Ended up being .76 cents for two (I always order an extra just in case) plus whatever USPS will charge for shipping. Probably another .50 cents. And FYI, these companies mostly deal with large distributors and have minimum order quantities and/or flat shipping rates. In this case that was $9 and some change for UPS to deliver. I called and asked if they had any other options besides UPS to ship me 2 really tiny fittings. They happily said they could ship USPS and save me some money.

I think a pressure gauge is a good idea for reasons you said. But I'm always checking my tell. Just habit I guess. That's how I noticed this problem before the trailer was even back out of the water.


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## JL8Jeff (Jun 16, 2015)

onthewater102 said:


> About a $2 part that screws out and screws back in & wasn't frozen up??? no - you definitely should not complain! 8)
> 
> How often do you really look @ your tell after you've got the motor started initially? We all know we SHOULD but I know I certainly don't. I'd be much more likely to notice if I had a gauge in front of me that wasn't reading right.



My overheat module went bad on my Mercury so I watch the telltale all the time. And I rarely run more than 10 minutes upstream before floating back down.


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## BigTerp (Jun 18, 2015)

Got my fitting fixed up last night. Depending on how the plastic plug I ordered fits, this may just be a temporary fix.


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## RiverBottomOutdoors (Jun 18, 2015)

I just my jet in sandy, shallow rives. I constantly check for pee.


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## kofkorn (Jun 18, 2015)

That may leak a bit around the threads. If you have any epoxy or glue to dip that screw in before putting it in the tubing, then you can stop the leaking. 

That type of tubing can be sealed like I mentioned earlier. Just take a lighter and slowly heat the end (keep it an inch or so away from the flame) Until the material just starts to deform. Then just grab a pair of pliers and pinch the end. Immediate seal with no leaking and no glue. 

Good luck!


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## BigTerp (Jun 18, 2015)

kofkorn said:


> That may leak a bit around the threads. If you have any epoxy or glue to dip that screw in before putting it in the tubing, then you can stop the leaking.
> 
> That type of tubing can be sealed like I mentioned earlier. Just take a lighter and slowly heat the end (keep it an inch or so away from the flame) Until the material just starts to deform. Then just grab a pair of pliers and pinch the end. Immediate seal with no leaking and no glue.
> 
> Good luck!



Thanks!!

Hopefully it won't leak.The tube was heated until soft and then forced onto the barbed fitting and zip tied. The bolt was crammed into the tube with an impact wrench. Probably overkill using a bolt that needed an impact wrench to get into the tube, but it made a nice tight fit. I cut the head of the bolt off because it had a pressed on washer. Don't think a steel washer constantly banging against the aluminum of the motor would be good.

Also I took a caliper to the old and new brass fitting. The brass is definitely bigger. IIRC the old measured something like .422 and the new was close to .445.


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## BigTerp (Jun 19, 2015)

The 1/8 - 27 NPT plastic plug I ordered fits perfectly. I'll keep my homemade one in the boat for awhile just to make sure it stays leak free though.

Thanks for all the help!!


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## CMOS (Jun 22, 2015)

Guys!

1/8" MIP???

*Doesn't he need the 1/8 NPT male fitting?????*

Go to www.McMaster.com for the plastic fitting.

CMOS


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## BigTerp (Jun 22, 2015)

CMOS said:


> Guys!
> 
> 1/8" MIP???
> 
> ...



Thanks man. But the 1/8" npt plastic pipe plug I ordered fits perfectly and is leak free, thankfully.


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## kofkorn (Jun 23, 2015)

CMOS said:


> Guys!
> 
> 1/8" MIP???
> 
> *Doesn't he need the 1/8 NPT male fitting?????*




MIP and NPT are the same thing:

From: https://pipeandhose.com/

American National Pipe - NPT/NPS
Hydraulics Plumbing Pipe Process Thread Specs
American National pipe (NPT, NPS), Like British Standard Pipe (BSP), is designated by trade size, rather than actual diameter, as shown in the table below.

There are two basic types of National pipe threads:

NPT: National Pipe Taper
NPS: National Pipe Straight
NPT threads are also sometimes referred to as

MIP (Male Iron Pipe)
FIP (Female Iron Pipe)
IPT (Iron Pipe Thread)
FPT (Female Pipe Thread)
MPT (Male Pipe Thread)


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