# In Over My Head?????



## Lenny (Jul 8, 2009)

Just brought a 14ft boat trailer combo. The boat is in great shape but the trailer is another story. 































The tire and wheel on the right side didn't even have bearings in it. I'm thinking that I'm gonna need a new axle kit, tires and wheels. I'll probably scrape off some of the old paint and wire brush some of the rust and paint. How diffcult is it going to be to replace the axles on the trailer?? should I take it somewhere or is it a bolt on deal.

Any tips or advise would be greatly appreciated!!

Thanks


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## bassboy1 (Jul 8, 2009)

While that is fixable, it probably would be cheaper to buy a better used trailer. 

If you do work on that one, you will need a whole new axle. You can buy just the spindles, but by the time you pay a shop to weld them on, an axle would have been cheaper. New Bearings and Races. New Tires/wheels. Were it me, I would also replace the springs, and U-bolts, but I tend to replace parts sooner than some people would. If I might have to worry about it failing me, I replace it now, not wait until it gets worse. 

What I don't like about that is the major pitting in the back. You cannot stop rust. You have to get it down to metal that has been untouched by rust to completely halt it. I am afraid that yours is pitted too far to do that.


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## Loggerhead Mike (Jul 8, 2009)

your first step needs to be getting that trailer sandblasted. after that it wont need but some metal to patch the rusted out places.

everything just looks surface rusted except the places rusted out wich are an easy fix if you have a welder and some metal

my trailer looked alot worse when i braught it home. surface rust aint no big deal it looks worse than it really is

your springs are fine, axle looks good unless its heavily rusted near the hubs that we cant see. the axle is only held in by the 4 ubolts. i'd replace the ubolts, they're only a few bucks


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## Lenny (Jul 8, 2009)

The pitting is a concern to me too. I was thinking having a buddy of mine who does metal work for a living cut those parts out and weld in a new piece of steel. I got this trailer for free with the boat so fixing it would probadly be cheaper that getting another one and I know that the parts on the trailer are brand new. I only paid 200 bucks and the boat is in excellent condition.


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## Lenny (Jul 8, 2009)

Just called a trailer shop called Ameritrail. They want $500 to sandblast the trailer if I
take it apart. Is that a good deal or should I look somewhere else???


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## hatch17 (Jul 8, 2009)

Lenny said:


> Just called a trailer shop called Ameritrail. They want $500 to sandblast the trailer if I
> take it apart. Is that a good deal or should I look somewhere else???




I think that is a little high. I found a used trailer in the local bulletin board for $125. You may be able to find a good deal on a used one that may take little to no repair.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Jul 8, 2009)

Scrap that one. Does it have a title? The papers would be worth more that the trailer.


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## Brine (Jul 8, 2009)

Just a couple minutes of searching by you for under $500.

Some come with a boat! :lol: 

https://orlando.craigslist.org/boa/1259778831.html

https://orlando.craigslist.org/boa/1259532021.html

https://orlando.craigslist.org/boa/1259510396.html

https://orlando.craigslist.org/boa/1257484735.html

https://orlando.craigslist.org/boa/1254128190.html


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## Lenny (Jul 8, 2009)

Sounds like a plan. Maybe you guys are right. I have the paperwork for the
trailer so what do I scrap the trailer at. Recycle plant??? So I guess the trailer ain't worth fixing.


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## Captain Ahab (Jul 8, 2009)

Lenny said:


> Just called a trailer shop called Ameritrail. They want $500 to sandblast the trailer if I
> take it apart. Is that a good deal or should I look somewhere else???




For that much just buy a new trailer



https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=5002

I do not really like that harbor freight trailer - contact a few boat places I bet you can get a trailer that will handle that little boat for less then $200.00 that needs no work


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## poolie (Jul 8, 2009)

I'm with everyone else. I'd look at getting a new or at least a different trailer. It was free so you're out nothing.


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## Lenny (Jul 8, 2009)

Captain Ahab said:


> Lenny said:
> 
> 
> > Just called a trailer shop called Ameritrail. They want $500 to sandblast the trailer if I
> ...




What don't you like about the harbor freight trailer?? 

I was planning on going this route. $311.00 for a new trailer sounds good and runs about the price of a used one, but if ain't the way to go then I'll back off.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Jul 8, 2009)

Lenny said:


> Sounds like a plan. Maybe you guys are right. I have the paperwork for the
> trailer so what do I scrap the trailer at. Recycle plant??? So I guess the trailer ain't worth fixing.


 Save the wheels, tires, hubs, axle, springs, winch, winch stand, bunks, bunk hardware and lights if they work. If the coupler is bolted on keep that too. 
Cut it up and take it to the recycler. If there is a VIN Plate keep that with the title you can put that on another trailer if needed.


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## Captain Ahab (Jul 8, 2009)

Lenny said:


> Captain Ahab said:
> 
> 
> > Lenny said:
> ...




The HF trailer seems to be made from very low grade stuff. I am sure it will work just find - but I dislike the tiny tires and such. Look for a used trailer a size up from what you need and it will last forever


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## russ010 (Jul 8, 2009)

The 1236 boat I bought came with a Harbor Freight trailer.. it was a 1994 model. I sanded it and painted it and it looked brand new again... there are no problems with those trailers.

If you end up getting another trailer, don't recycle it at a recycle place - sell it CHEAP to someone who really needs it and doesn't have much money to buy a new one. If you're going to trash it, put a craigslist add out for a free trailer. Someone can make it work for them for a few bucks if it really needs fixing. Most of what I saw was cosmetics. The axle is probably fine, but you won't know until you get the wheels/hubs off and look at the spindle. The hubs you can get for $50-80 for a pair, and the axle might cost $100. You can probably find a shop to make one for you using most of what you already have.


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## bassboy1 (Jul 9, 2009)

I see a lot of people mentioning how the axle seems fine, but here is what worries me.



> The tire and wheel on the right side didn't even have bearings in it.



The spindle on an axle is a precisely machined surface, and it is very important that it stays a precisely machined surface. Any scratching, gouging or pitting is bad news for a spindle. Given it didn't even have bearings in it, and is currently laying on the ground, I would bet 20 bucks it is showing signs of damage that are just hiding behind the fender. 

I am not saying it cannot be fixed. What I am saying is for the money and time that would be spent fixing it, he would be better off buying a good used trailer.


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## grizzly (Jul 9, 2009)

had a landscape guy bring his trailer into work last week with the bearings destroyed. cheapest route we could find was a brand new axle, with hubs and bearings already installed and new leaf springs, all for 96.00 at a local trailer shop. 4 bolts and 4 minutes and i had it installed.

biggest problem with your trailer is the rusted through corners. i agree, sell it for 25 bucks and start looking for a used one on craigslist. put your boat on some sawhorses and by the time your done fixing it up you will have found a trailer.

good luck!


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## Loggerhead Mike (Jul 9, 2009)

500 bucks YIKES. i wished we were closer all it would take is a few bags of sand and some metal and we'd have ya on the road for under 50 bucks

i would not give the trailer away. take the rubber parts and wiring out and take it to a scrap metal yard. you'll probably get 50+ bucks for it depending on how much metal is going for in your part


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## bassboy1 (Jul 9, 2009)

Loggerhead Mike said:


> i would not give the trailer away. take the rubber parts and wiring out and take it to a scrap metal yard. you'll probably get 50+ bucks for it depending on how much metal is going for in your part


Not right now you aren't. Definitely a buyer's market for scrap at the current. I have been hoarding all my scrap for a while, hoping to save it for when the price goes up, but that doesn't look it will happen anytime soon.


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## Loggerhead Mike (Jul 9, 2009)

i recon i stand corrected. its been about 2 years since we scraped some old cars but i called the place after reading this and it looks like they wont even give you enough to go to the dollar menu @ micky d's. i cant beleave its gone down so much, must be everybody scraping everything they can when the economy took a dump


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## bassboy1 (Jul 9, 2009)

Loggerhead Mike said:


> i cant beleave its gone down so much, must be everybody scraping everything they can when the economy took a dump



Might be part of the reason but I reckon the biggest reason is there is no market to buy the scrap to smelt it, seeing as fewer finished goods are being sold.


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## Lenny (Jul 9, 2009)

I'm on the look out for a better trailer. The wife thinks I should just go ahead and get the harbor freight trailer and be done with it. I'll keep you guys posted


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## MikeA57 (Jul 17, 2009)

Tie some brush onto that old trailer and sink it. It'll make a great anchor for a fish attractor...


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## russ010 (Jul 17, 2009)

Go ahead and get the HF trailer... it's on sale for $299 https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Category.taf?categoryid=441&pricetype=S&categoryname=Trailers


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## Lenny (Jul 17, 2009)

UPDATE!!!!

I kept looking and looking on craigslist and brought this trailer here for $150:























The bunks fell off on the way home :shock: but they were to short anyway. The only problem is now that it's a bit on the short side. About 6ft of the boat hangs off the back. I'm guessing I'm going to have to get the tongue extended out. How long of an extension should I get and how much of the boat is okay to let hang out the back?? Thanks again for all your responses, this site is really great!!


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## ohm (Jul 17, 2009)

Do you have a welder? If so, just cut the old toung off and weld on a longer piece of 2x2 box, weld the winch post and bolt the hitch back on and your good. I'm not sure how much you want hanging off the back but I would say not much.


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## Lenny (Jul 17, 2009)

I don't have a welder but I do know a shop that has good prices. I was gonna run the trailer by and see what they can do.


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## ben2go (Jul 17, 2009)

Lenny said:


> I don't have a welder but I do know a shop that has good prices. I was gonna run the trailer by and see what they can do.



Lenny,the trailer you bought is an old style Northern Tool or Harbor Freight trailer.You saved $50 by buying used.


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## Quackrstackr (Jul 17, 2009)

Good find on the trailer.

Gotta love the instant front brake dust on the F150's. Your neighbors wheels look just like mine do after I drive 2 miles down the road and back. :lol: 

Ford put the cheapest brake pads on these trucks that they could find. :x


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## ben2go (Jul 18, 2009)

Quackrstackr said:


> Good find on the trailer.
> 
> Gotta love the instant front brake dust on the F150's. Your neighbors wheels look just like mine do after I drive 2 miles down the road and back. :lol:
> 
> Ford put the cheapest brake pads on these trucks that they could find. :x




Use ceramic brake pads if you can find them.NAPA sells them here.I use them on all my vehicles and some others that I do work on.They last a long time and don't dust up the wheels as bad,unless you go for months without washing your vehicle.


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## Lenny (Jul 18, 2009)

ben2go said:


> Lenny said:
> 
> 
> > I don't have a welder but I do know a shop that has good prices. I was gonna run the trailer by and see what they can do.
> ...



I knew this trailer looked familar. The only thing that I was wondering is why it has the
tounge welded on. I wish I could just do a tounge swap. I don't understand, I thought that you could fit a 12-14 footer on these?


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## MOOSE (Jul 18, 2009)

*
SCRAPE PRICE TOOK A DUMP WHEN THE MARKET DID. ALUM IS DOWN TO 20 CENTS A POUND HERE.*


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## MikeA57 (Jul 19, 2009)

Lenny said:


> The only thing that I was wondering is why it has the
> tounge welded on. I wish I could just do a tounge swap. I don't understand, I thought that you could fit a 12-14 footer on these?



$40 dollar angle grinder and a $2 cut off disk and you don't have a tongue welded on any more. I had to do the same thing on my trailer because it had the type of coupler that screwed down so there was no way to lock it on when it was on the tow vehicle.

Old coupler:
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/download/file.php?id=6532&mode=view/Old coupler 1.JPG

New coupler:
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/download/file.php?id=6544&mode=view/New coupler.JPG


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## ben2go (Jul 19, 2009)

Lenny said:


> ben2go said:
> 
> 
> > Lenny said:
> ...




Someone welded the tongue on after it came loose on them.You should be able to get a 12' to 14' on there.Slide the winch post forward and make the bunks a little longer.If your boat will set between the fenders,just bolt the bunks flat to the trailer frame.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Jul 20, 2009)

Get some fenders.


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## Lenny (Jul 20, 2009)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> Get some fenders.




I picked some up at tractor supply. I'll be heading to the shop tommorrow to get the
tounge from the old trailer put on. I'll let you know how it goes.


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## dougdad (Aug 14, 2009)

turn it into a flatbed yard and garden trailer and shop for a better one, you can't go wrong with a galvinized one.


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