# i need a wiring diagram



## rusmir (Feb 19, 2010)

i have a fish finder, minikota 55lb and bilge pump .. can sombady draw it out for me. 
and post a pic..
i might buy another battery i alredy have one // so one digram with one battery and another with 2 batterys ..


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## Truckmechanic (Feb 19, 2010)

Are you wanting switchs?


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## rusmir (Feb 19, 2010)

yes i do .. im looking to buy some .. let me know also what i need to buy


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## nbaffaro (Feb 19, 2010)

Here are some ideas I worked up. 

I got switches for sale! they are 30 each in the west marine catalog!


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## rusmir (Feb 19, 2010)

Tx looks good. What about switches


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## nbaffaro (Feb 19, 2010)

Basically all you need to do for switches is put them on a the 12V pos wire for a SPST switch. The 12V neg will just run straight to the battery. Just put the switch inline between the battery and whatever you want to turn off.


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## russ010 (Feb 19, 2010)

good job nbaffaro!!

yep, he pretty much summed it all up... just cut your positive wire where you want to put a switch. I personally wouldn't put a switch on the trolling motor because it will lose a little juice and you need all you can get out of it at the end of the day.


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## Rat (Feb 19, 2010)

nbaffaro said:


> Here are some ideas I worked up.
> 
> I got switches for sale! they are 30 each in the west marine catalog!



Nice! Can't get much better than that.


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## rusmir (Feb 19, 2010)

I. Kinda get it but i want off the builg pump .. And how could i install. Also one of those chargers or whatever they are called its a square box that slowely recharges the nattery


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## nbaffaro (Feb 19, 2010)

Well, you going to have to find a place to mount either a switch panel for your switches. It is difficult to draw up a good wiring diagram without knowing where you are planning on putting the switches, battery, and the depth finder. 

Your depth finder should turn off and on on it's own. I know mine doesn't have a switch on it. 
You can get an automatic bilge that you wouldn't have to put a switch on that either. But you could if you wanted to. 

As for the charger that is a seperate wiring. It will come pre-supplied with all of the terminals that you will need to connect it to the battery(ies) that you have.

That is just about mounting it and running the wires.


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## rusmir (Feb 19, 2010)

Ol when i get home i will draw. Out where i will have my stuff. And then u could help out tx again


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## rusmir (Feb 19, 2010)

this is how i want to set up my wiring

ff- fishfinder
bg-bilgy pump
s- switches
bb-2 batterys
f- fuel


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## nbaffaro (Feb 22, 2010)

Brown wire goes to Bilge from the switch
Pink wire goes to Fish Finder from the battery 
Red wire goes from Battery to the Switch
Red/Yellow wire goes to trolling motor from the battery


Small Black wires go to grounds for Bilge and Fish Finder
Large Black wire is ground for Trolling motor

For the switch. Use a simple SPST swtich. Diagram shows three areas for switches but only one is used. I can post up something for that if you need it.

The basic shape here is your boat. You will need to route the wires the best way you can. These colors are just for illustration purposes. As long as you use black for ground you will be fine. 

The small wires can be 16ga 
The trolling motor cable should be around 8 but bigger is better 6 even 4

The jumper from the two batteries should be automotive battery cables around 1/0


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## rusmir (Feb 22, 2010)

Thats a. Grat digram tx !!! Again i will let u know if anything else


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## Jim (Feb 22, 2010)

:beer:


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## rusmir (Feb 22, 2010)

[-o<


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## Troutman3000 (Mar 1, 2010)

rusmir said:


> Thats a. Grat digram tx !!! Again i will let u know if anything else




I am glad i found this thread. Basically everything I need. So if I install front and rear navigation lights those can be run to the switches as well correct?

Thanks,

Jason


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## nbaffaro (Mar 1, 2010)

You would want to go with a double pole double throw Switch DPDT. This will allow you to turn both the front and rear light on or just the rear anchor light on. 

These are a bit more complicated to wire up. However, if you don't want the ability to just turn on the anchor light by its self then you'll can go with a simplier set up.

I'll work on it.

Nick


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## russ010 (Mar 1, 2010)

Troutman3000 said:


> rusmir said:
> 
> 
> > Thats a. Grat digram tx !!! Again i will let u know if anything else
> ...



my lights are the one thing I don't have on switches. I have the plug bases wired directly to the battery. If i want the light to be on, I put the light in the socket... if I want the light off, I pull it out -- does that make sense? Save yourself a dollar and put in removable lights, you'll be glad you did in the long run. One less switch to go bad


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## Troutman3000 (Mar 2, 2010)

russ010 said:


> Troutman3000 said:
> 
> 
> > rusmir said:
> ...



Less parts to go bad i guess. 

What do you mean when you say plug bases. Do you have a connection between the battery and the light? Got any pictures. Also please excuse all the questions but I have little to no exp with electrical stuff and so forth. I really do appreciate the help. I am honestly thinking of just buying a couple of toggle switches from home deopt for stuff that has to have a switch and hard wiring everything else directly to the battery, (or busbar), and putting in inline fuses.


edit: so after reading that post again you just let the power flow freely to the lights and keep the light out of the socket? Is that dangerous?


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## nbaffaro (Mar 2, 2010)

What russ has done is put light sockets at the front and the back of his boat. Run the power from you bus bar or distribution block to each of them. This way they have power all the time. They usually have some type of plug or cover so that they won't get water in them. When you plug in the light then you already have power and they come on.

Picture 1 is of the socket that would work.

Picture 3 is of the front navigation lights that will plug into these sockets

However, if you choose to go with a permanet type light like the one in picture 2 then you will need to wire up some sort of switch.

I would recommend even if you go with a permanet front mount that you should go with a removable anchor light so it won't be in the way during the day time. It should be at least 3ft higher than anything else on the boat. (I think)


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## Troutman3000 (Mar 2, 2010)

nbaffaro said:


> What russ has done is put light sockets at the front and the back of his boat. Run the power from you bus bar or distribution block to each of them. This way they have power all the time. They usually have some type of plug or cover so that they won't get water in them. When you plug in the light then you already have power and they come on.
> 
> Picture 1 is of the socket that would work.
> 
> ...




Ok that makes more sense. Thanks Guys.


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## russ010 (Mar 2, 2010)

good job nbaffaro! =D> 

He right, I would go with removable for the front and back. If you have a trolling motor in the front, it's better to have a front nav light with a pole about 12" tall so that it sits above your trolling motor head and can be seen from all directions. 

I also like taking out the back nav light - that sucker gets in the way during the day if you're trying to throw side armed with a spinning reel or if you are trying to pitch. 

Hey, don't ever hesitate to ask a question... no better place than here to get an answer. You can call me anytime too - 404.694.4689


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## rusmir (Mar 2, 2010)

great answers guys i didnt have time to come o here and check out some posts. i bured from welding for some reason i had mask and rest of the gear but man i tell ya i couldnt open my eyes for 2 days sucks anyways im back started working again on my boat today.. i will also need some wiring diagrams for my 18ft.. keep up the good work guys ..


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## PhilM (Mar 3, 2010)

Reminder

Make sure you place a fuse for each positive wire you run from the battery, place close to battery to protect all of your wiring and items that they supply.

For the trolling motor use the recommended circuit breaker.


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## Troutman3000 (Mar 3, 2010)

PhilM said:


> Reminder
> 
> Make sure you place a fuse for each positive wire you run from the battery, place close to battery to protect all of your wiring and items that they supply.
> 
> For the trolling motor use the recommended *circuit breaker*.



Circut Breaker - is that a busbar? What is it?


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## russ010 (Mar 3, 2010)

It's an inline fuse put on the positive wire running from your battery to your trolling motor - https://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/...070250&cm_ite=0001110014081a&_requestid=29549

I don't use them... then again, I only use fuses on my fish finders.


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## rusmir (Mar 3, 2010)

Nice so how does that braker work


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## russ010 (Mar 3, 2010)

these breakers work in the same manner as those in your house...

If for some reason your battery decides it wants to give more amp than it's supposed to, or you have a power surge, and the Trolling motor is looking for 40 amps, you would put a 50amp breaker inline... if more than 50amps come from the battery, this breaker will trip (break the circuit) so that no power is going to the trolling motor. To reset it, all you do is flip a little switch inside it


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## rusmir (Mar 4, 2010)

Nice thats smart . My mini kota is only 50lb thrust. What breaker do i need


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## russ010 (Mar 4, 2010)

rusmir said:


> Nice thats smart . My mini kota is only 50lb thrust. What breaker do i need




I dunno... most trolling motors can pull up to 55amp, so I would go with a 60amp, but that's just me. Like I said, I don't worry with those things


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## rusmir (Mar 4, 2010)

Ok so 55 it is


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## russ010 (Mar 4, 2010)

rusmir said:


> Ok so 55 it is



you might look to go to a 60... a few extra amps won't hurt, but if it's pulling 55amps, and your breaker is a 55amp, you're going to be doing a whole lot of resetting.. if you are going to get one, get no less than a 60amp


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## rusmir (Mar 4, 2010)

K


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