# Blink's 1973 AMF Crestliner 12' V-Hull (Update 05-05-12)



## blink (Mar 3, 2012)

My friend's dad gave me this boat and trailer for $1 each last year.
I have fished her a few times, but have realized that the layout is a bit uncomfortable, and all the wood is rotting.
Here are some before photos.














I have removed the benches and platforms. The Transom is also coming out.





I fish a lot of electric only lakes, so i will have 2 transom mount trolling motors on it, and i eventually want to put a bow mount foot controlled motor on the front.

I want to deck the entire boat, at the height the benches are currently. 
I want to have storage underneath.
I want to have the front seat further forward.

I have an idea on how i want to frame it out. Rivet joist hangers 16" OC all the way down the boat and hang 2x6's in them, and just connect plywood to the top.
Has anyone tried something similar?


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## Johny25 (Mar 3, 2012)

Using 2x6 is going to add a lot of weight, I think 2x4 would be more than strong enough to span a 4ft gap with 16's on center and carry the weight of a couple people easily. I did my boat mod a little diff than you plan on doing but I framed mine out with 1x4 and 1x2's to keep the weight down and my boat is as solid as a rock. I was a carpenter for years though. Looks like an inviting project you have there and you cannot beat the price you got it at


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## blink (Mar 3, 2012)

I have a bunch of 2x6 joist hangers left over from building my deck, and that is why i planned to use them. 

I could probably trade them out at Lowes for 2x4's i will save the money on lumber anyway.


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## jasper60103 (Mar 3, 2012)

Great deal !
I like the green color. I bet it would look real sharp
with just new wood benches. Also, have space for storage underneath.
I would be a little concerned about decking the entire boat the height of
the benches, but if you can stand on the benches comfortably
go for it.
Just my 2 cents. Enjoy your project.


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## Johny25 (Mar 3, 2012)

A pair of tin snips can make those 2x6 hangers into 2x4 hangers real quick


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## blink (Mar 3, 2012)

I am going to be decking it out 2" lower than the top of the current bench height.
I do stand on the bench and cast with no problems, but usually we sit to cast when two are in the boat.
I will be putting new seats in with risers, so we will be seated a bit higher than normal.
I think it will be fine though

I decided to use 2x4s. I started the framing this evening and got two lengths of beam installed. its going to be extremely sturdy. 
It got dark on me so i didnt get any photos.


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## blink (Mar 4, 2012)

I got some work done on her this morning.
Removed the transom.









I decided that i will not deck out all the way. I have a section in the middle that i am not going to deck.
I got most of the framing done this morning though, and blocking for the rear seat.









For the front, i am going to leave the angle clips as they are and shim up as necessary. I will add angles at the very front to attach to as well.


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## blink (Mar 4, 2012)

Should i seal the joists with Spar?


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## Jdholmes (Mar 4, 2012)

YES - not spar varnish or poly though...Spar Urethane.

Three coats at least and you will get the optimum life from your frame.


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## blink (Mar 4, 2012)

Thanks!


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## Jdholmes (Mar 4, 2012)

No prob...Enjoy.


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## blink (Mar 5, 2012)

I decided to put a couple of vertical supports from joist to bottom of hull. Its really unnecessary, but i like to build things tougher than i think i have to.

I put the first coat of Spar Urethane on a few minutes ago.

I have attached a preliminary layout. What do yall think? The gray at the bow and the stern are the decks. The dark circles obviously seats. Blue are batteries, dotted lines are hatches.


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## Jdholmes (Mar 5, 2012)

Nice job...I think you are going to be a little starboard heavy though. Try centering that third battery more - batteries are heavy and that combined with the trolling motor being starboard may put it off balance a lil much.


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## blink (Mar 5, 2012)

I could totally move those batteries up to the front of that deck/


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## blink (Mar 5, 2012)

The buddy i usually fish with is 280. he sits up front.
i am 170. the weight may balance out!


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## Jdholmes (Mar 5, 2012)

Wow...280 + three batteries + your weight, trolling motor, gas, main motor...2x4 construction...you must be pushing close to your weight limit?


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## blink (Mar 5, 2012)

no gas. dual trolling motors in the rear, bow mount in the front.
The framing and decking i am installing really doesnt weigh much more than what i took out.
I had the boat out a couple weeks ago before i tore the old stuff out, with my 280 friend and the 2 batteries in the back.
its still sits pretty high.


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## morecoffee (Mar 5, 2012)

Coming along nicely!


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## blink (Mar 9, 2012)

Bass Pro Shops up in Lawrenceville has a one day only sale on folding seats. Regular $49, today only $22.
New seats at $50+ were out of my budget, but i can do $22!!


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## blink (Mar 9, 2012)

I ended up getting two of the seats at basspro today. They are really nice for $20 a piece.
I ended up splurging on plug in mounts. they are going to be much better than the steel ones, and only like $16 more per mount.
i have a hole saw the right size for the inset already (from installing a dryer vent in my house)


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## blink (Mar 9, 2012)

So the old bench height is 1.5" taller than the new deck height, the seats are going to end up being 3.5" higher ride height than the old seats. The cool thing about these seats though is that i can just cut the aluminum post down for a lower ride height if it feels unstable.


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## blink (Mar 11, 2012)

I got a good bit of work done today. 
I got to thinking about how i want to do my hatches today, and figured out i need some more framing....





I decided to just use a piece of 5/4 decking to redo the transom. It lasted pretty long in there without any sealing from whenever it was last replaced.




Test fit, with my beautiful girlfriend gardening in the background.




My little helpers....




I got the rear deck cut and test fit. i marked the hatch openings underneath. I added 3/4" around 3 sides of each.




Cut out the hatches and the inset for the seat mount. I went to the inside of my line for the hatch, and then went to the outside of the line on my holes.


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## blink (Mar 13, 2012)

My dad has a nice little 16' Nitro and the hatch pulls are straps with loops at the end. 
Has anyone done this here? 
Does anyone know where i would go to get something like this?


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## UtahBassKicker (Mar 13, 2012)

Not sure if I'm thinking the same thing but I used a an older tie down strap. I cut it in 7-8" sections, doubled it over and screwed the loose ends to the bottom of my latch doors, creating a small loop to use a pull to open the hatch.


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## blink (Mar 13, 2012)

UtahBassKicker said:


> Not sure if I'm thinking the same thing but I used a an older tie down strap. I cut it in 7-8" sections, doubled it over and screwed the loose ends to the bottom of my latch doors, creating a small loop to use a pull to open the hatch.



I was thinking something similar.
Maybe burning the ends of the strap and grommetting them together, screwing through the grommet into the bottom of the latch doors.


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## Johny25 (Mar 13, 2012)

I did the same thing with my hatches. I bought some heavy duty thick ratchet strap material, folded them over to make a loop, melted the ends and stapled them in under the hatches. Works great


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## blink (Mar 13, 2012)

Sweet! That sounds like a plan!


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## Johny25 (Mar 13, 2012)

Hey blink the project looks to be coming along great  I removed that pic I posted once you saw it out of respect for your thread


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## Brine (Mar 13, 2012)

First time seeing your build blink. It's looking good. 

Curious what you used to fasten the joist hangers. Make sure it's stainless hardware so it doesn't cause you any corrosion issues. Also, if some of the holes will be below the waterline, you may want to put some 5200 on them if you haven't already. 

Any plans for the trailer? It looks like the boat could move back a foot and have the bunks still catch the transom. That would make loading/unloading that much easier by not having to back down the ramp so far, and it looks like the bow roller may be setup to help you better.

I like the idea of leaving a space in the middle low. I decided the same and am glad I did.


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## blink (Mar 14, 2012)

Brine said:


> First time seeing your build blink. It's looking good.
> 
> Curious what you used to fasten the joist hangers. Make sure it's stainless hardware so it doesn't cause you any corrosion issues. Also, if some of the holes will be below the waterline, you may want to put some 5200 on them if you haven't already.
> 
> ...



Brine, thanks for the tips.
I used aluminum 3/16" rivets to attach the joist hangers, but i put clear silicone in the holes for leakage and behind the joist hanger to act as an isolator. The thing about dissimilar metals though is that even stainless and aluminum will make a battery.
That got me thinking about where else i have conditions like this. The lags for my seat supports are SS, and the splate is aluminum. the piano hinges are aluminum, screws are stainless. i will use the silicone liberally for these conditions.

I just looked up 3M 5200 and i will grab some of that. I have been using 100% silicone, which is an amazing sealant and adhesive as well. 

I do plan to work on the trailer. It needs paint, badly.
I like your idea. i could just move the bow roller and the rope crank back a foot or so.


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## bassboy1 (Mar 14, 2012)

> I used aluminum 3/16" rivets to attach the joist hangers, but i put clear silicone in the holes for leakage and behind the joist hanger to act as an isolator. The thing about dissimilar metals though is that even stainless and aluminum will make a battery.



Yes, stainless and aluminum isn't ideal, but still an acceptable combination. However, zinc (galvanized joist hangers, for one) and aluminum is bad news. Be sure you isolate them well.


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## blink (Mar 14, 2012)

bassboy1 said:


> > I used aluminum 3/16" rivets to attach the joist hangers, but i put clear silicone in the holes for leakage and behind the joist hanger to act as an isolator. The thing about dissimilar metals though is that even stainless and aluminum will make a battery.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, stainless and aluminum isn't ideal, but still an acceptable combination. However, zinc (galvanized joist hangers, for one) and aluminum is bad news. Be sure you isolate them well.



i think a few coats of old paint and a layer of silicone ought to be good enough, right?


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## bassboy1 (Mar 14, 2012)

The short answer is that you're probably going to be alright, as the boat is a freshwater trailer maiden. 

The long answer is that even with paint and silicone, you aren't isolated, as the rivet electrically connects everything, eliminating the isolation. That being said, in this case, the rivet is going to be the weak link, so if a problem should arise, the rivet is going to be the item that corrodes before the boat hull starts to show an issue.


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## Brine (Mar 14, 2012)

Sounds like you're good. Thought I'd mention it though before you got any deeper into the build and there was a problem. I've seen guys use a piece of rubber mat as an insulator in the past.

Also, when you go to use the 5200, make sure to have a rag nearby! :LOL2:


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## blink (Mar 14, 2012)

I got to do a little bit of work on her this afternoon.
I got the front deck cut, and the hatches cut.


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## blink (Mar 15, 2012)

Carpet.

I have never done carpet, but plan to with my build. 
Do i carpet my deck after its screwed down or before?
I assume i do it after its screwed down.
I use contact cement???

i guess i will lay the sheet over the whole deck, tuck the edges, etc....

Is there a tutorial on the site for this? I searched but could not find one.


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## Johny25 (Mar 15, 2012)

I carpeted my boat with all the wood off the boat. One of the most important things to get carpet with no wrinkles is heat. Get the carpet as warm as you can. I did mine in my heated shop and had it at 80 plus degrees until the carpet glue dried. The reason is that the carpet will expand greatly when heated, and it will expand in the sun when you have your boat in the water. I did a lot of research when I carpeted my boat and finally decided on premium outdoor carpet adhesive and also I bought seam sealer which dries in about 10-15 minutes for the edges and small stuff. 

If you want your boat to look good you will take this step serious. I have seen mods on here that could have looked great if they would have taken their time and carpeted it correctly. Get a glue carpet trawl so you can lay the glue down fast, easily, and evenly. Mske sure your glue is warm also. Get lots of razor blades for cutting and change them often, a dull blade can mess up your carpet job when cutting. I would change my blades or flip them over every 2 or 3 long cuts. Carpet knife would probably work great also but I used a nice box cutter knife. And get yourself a good staple gun with like 5/8" staples to staple it underneath when pulled tight. I also had a spare piece of clean plywood to lay my carpeted pieces on face down and put weights on them overnight (tool boxes, blocks etc...) You are going to get glue on yourself for sure so have plenty of cleaning wipes ready. 

Have all your stuff out and ready before laying the glue down. I rolled out the carpet face down on a clean flat surface. I had the carpet really warm remember, and pulled tight. Then put the glue on the pieces and flip them over onto the carpet. Cut out around the pieces AT LEAST 2 inches larger than the piece all around. Make sure you give yourself plenty to work with, you can cut more off later. Then I pulled it tight as I could by hand as I stapled it to the backside and worked my way around the piece. Don't be shy with staples either, you can pull them out later. 

My advice is to get a practice piece that is oddly shaped and practice on it for starters. And that is my 2 cents lol.... good luck


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## Johny25 (Mar 15, 2012)

Oh another thing I did. I had all my holes pre drilled to screw my floor down. And after the glue dried and I was ready to install I pushed toothpicks threw the backside of each hole so the were sticking up threw the carpet when I laid it in the boat. Then I went around with my STAINLESS steel screws and pulled each toothpick one at a time and put a screw in. Screws are all hidden because they pull down in the carpet.


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## blink (Mar 15, 2012)

Johny25 said:


> Oh another thing I did. I had all my holes pre drilled to screw my floor down. And after the glue dried and I was ready to install I pushed toothpicks threw the backside of each hole so the were sticking up threw the carpet when I laid it in the boat. Then I went around with my STAINLESS steel screws and pulled each toothpick one at a time and put a screw in. Screws are all hidden because they pull down in the carpet.



Awesome! That solved the issues rolling around in my headspace!


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## blink (Mar 15, 2012)

I got a little bit of work done today.
Bow mount trolling motor platform (i hope to get one this spring sometime)




I ran out of plywood so for the top i used a piece of 1/2" MDO that i use for my business (Signage)

Moved the boat back about a foot on the trailer (Thanks Brine) and adjusted the pully and bow catch back to meet. 
The boat sits so much more level. i dig it.
I do plan to paint the trailer and replace the runners and redo the wiring.


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## Brine (Mar 15, 2012)

Boat looks better on the trailer =D>

There's a fairly inexpensive DIY project for some guide poles made from ladder stablizers if you're considering adding some. 

Several of the builds have carpet tutorials. Look here: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=3156

I would simply go the last page of the build and see if it has carpet in it. If it does, there's a good chance there's been a discussion about it. Some of the things that seem to come up frequently is:

Don't get a carpet with loops. It will make getting hooks out a nightmare. Carpet with a rubber back will help the longevity of the wood decks below. Know that the carpet will have a grain direction and if you don't run it all the same way, it will appear as though you have 2 different colors. (this happens most when doing the hatches. Mark your pieces to avoid it. Some guys say the spray adhesive works good, others say not. I've yet to hear anyone complain using the notched trowel route. A rolling pin seems to make a good carpet flattener if you don't risk getting hit over the head with it by your girlfriend when she sees you using it. There is a specific cut that allows you to wrap the corners of your hatches cleanly and (professionally). If you want to see it and can't find it, let me know and I'll dig it up for you.


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## blink (Mar 19, 2012)

So I was looking at this outdoor carpet adhesive at Lowes yesterday, and it said not to use it on sealed wood and not to seal the wood.

What is the deal here? Do i still seal with 3 coats of spar urethane and then do the carpet???


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## Johny25 (Mar 19, 2012)

I wouldn't seal the surface you are gluing to. Between the glue (if laid down correct) and the outdoor carpet with the rubber like backing it will seal the wood itself on that surface. You can seal the rest of the surfaces that will not be carpeted. 

I did not seal any of the wood I put in my boat. By the time the wood rots out I will either be dead and gone or I will have a new idea and design for a floor plan. My boat does not sit out in the elements though, always garaged so I was not that concerned about it. But if you leave your boat outside or fish in the rain a lot I would seal all wood components. 

Others may have different opinions but that is mine : )


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## Brine (Mar 19, 2012)

Johny25 said:


> I wouldn't seal the surface you are gluing to. Between the glue (if laid down correct) and the outdoor carpet with the rubber like backing it will seal the wood itself on that surface. You can seal the rest of the surfaces that will not be carpeted.
> 
> I did not seal any of the wood I put in my boat. By the time the wood rots out I will either be dead and gone or I will have a new idea and design for a floor plan. My boat does not sit out in the elements though, always garaged so I was not that concerned about it. But if you leave your boat outside or fish in the rain a lot I would seal all wood components.
> 
> Others may have different opinions but that is mine : )



and mine


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## blink (Mar 20, 2012)

Well,
I am going to be covering the boat, and i do not plan on fishing a lot in the rain, so i guess i am ready for carpet!


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## pacoballs (Apr 18, 2012)

Loooks good. did you get the carpet done? im about to do mine and would like to see how yours turned out. i have similar shaped decks.


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## blink (May 5, 2012)

Aight yall, so i have changed my mind about carpet, and gotten a lot done. 
She is fishable as of today, and i have only a few more things i want and/or need to do to her before i will be done.

1. Grind off the angles on the top lip.
2. Add pulls for the hatches. Still thinking the straps with loops will work.
3. Touch up the green paint on the outside.
4. I am not sure if i am going to do anything with the middle section. Its kinda gonna be a catch-all and get really dirty.

So i bought this Valspar product for the paint. Its super tough stuff, and like sandpaper to the touch when dry.
I am happy with how it turned out.


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## Johny25 (May 5, 2012)

Looks really clean blink..... nice job if I say so myself =D> Just make that middle area into a giant live well :mrgreen:


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