# 14ft creastliner v hull skiff



## mrdrh99 (Nov 3, 2016)

Here's where I am so far, 14ft creastliner, 3/4 decked and it's rock solid and stable. Just picked up a bow mount foot controlled tm to mount soon. Batteries are under the deck and plan on moving gas tank up and under the front deck also. Plan on running all electrical(lights, bilge, etc) through a switch and buss. 9.9 with e start is very nice. A paint job and cleaning up the decking (hatches, hinges. Etc) is next up after mounting the new tm.


----------



## richg99 (Nov 4, 2016)

Sounds like you are making great progress....but....

I can't get the pictures to load. I do see that they are at Photobucket. ??

Have you ever tried to use the "add a file" option for pix? That is all that I use now. Way quicker than uploading to a photo site. 

It is right below the message box. Your pictures stay on your computer or Photos/Drive if you auto-upload to the cloud.

richg99


----------



## mrdrh99 (Nov 4, 2016)

Yeah I just caught on earlier today, I'm having problems with photo bucket.... I'll get it fix and get the pics up soon


----------



## mrdrh99 (Nov 5, 2016)




----------



## richg99 (Nov 5, 2016)

Neat...! richg99


----------



## water bouy (Nov 5, 2016)

Getting seats too? Looks good.


----------



## mrdrh99 (Nov 6, 2016)

Yeah, I'm going to get 2 pin style, probably just a butt seat for the deck. I plan on doing a small solid floor. That way I'll be able to move my weight a little forward while on the outboard and move the pin up front when I want to. \/


----------



## richg99 (Nov 6, 2016)

re the seats....I have NO idea if this will work, but...one of the Tinboat sponsors .... Slider G5.... has a device that might bridge the two seats fore-to-aft. That way, you could simply slide your seat forward or back as needed.

You might want to contact them and ask. regards, richg99

https://www.sliderg5.com/


----------



## mrdrh99 (Nov 6, 2016)

Interesting, seems like I would probably have to frame and support, but the idea of being able to slide back and forth is intriguing


----------



## spanky543 (Nov 10, 2016)

Boat is looking good! I am looking at that motor for my 14' Arkansas Traveler. How well does it push your boat around?


----------



## mrdrh99 (Nov 28, 2016)

spanky543 said:


> Boat is looking good! I am looking at that motor for my 14' Arkansas Traveler. How well does it push your boat around?


Hey! Sorry it took so long to reply! With just me on a plane I get about 17mph, just really varies with the load. But, most the lakes here are no wake/5mph so I rarely get to run it wot.


----------



## mrdrh99 (Nov 28, 2016)

Just added a motor guide 43# bow mount troller. Older model but still works great! Moved the 30# tiller back to the transom. All the big pieces are in place and everything is very functional. I'm really surprised at how stable this deck is. Still plan on the pin style seat and I'll be doing a diy recessed tray for the tm.


----------



## richg99 (Nov 28, 2016)

Boat looks good. Where's the snow?


----------



## richg99 (Nov 28, 2016)

Boat looks good. Where's the snow?


----------



## mrdrh99 (Nov 28, 2016)

I'm wondering that myself Rich!


----------



## mrdrh99 (Dec 4, 2016)

richg99 said:


> Boat looks good. Where's the snow?


Lol... Here ya go


----------



## richg99 (Dec 4, 2016)

Bah humbug. I left all of that back in Chicago in 1980. You may keep it. Ha Ha richg99


----------



## mrdrh99 (Dec 5, 2016)

:LOL2:


richg99 said:


> Bah humbug. I left all of that back in Chicago in 1980. You may keep it. Ha Ha richg99


----------



## mrdrh99 (Jan 7, 2017)

OK... So during my winter hibernating I've been thinking. What if I raised my deck to be flush, or just under the rail? I know I'll gain a little more deck space, more deep storage under the deck, and should make the trolling motor easier to mount. My real question is stability. Right now the boat is very stable all over that deck. So would raising the deck 6 inches take away from the stability at all? Here is a pic that shows the whole thing.


----------



## richg99 (Jan 7, 2017)

Guess I'd take a big piece of styrofoam, top it with a piece of plywood and screw it down. 

Go fishing. Walk around. 

If it isn't too tippy, go ahead with your full plan. Try it before you buy it.

Rich


----------



## mrdrh99 (Jan 7, 2017)

Good idea Rich, thanks! Always helpful!


----------



## Johnny (Jan 7, 2017)

- my personal thoughts on flush decks -

I see them all the time and a thought always comes to mind,
what if you drop something and it rolls off the deck into the water.
what if you loose your footing and fall over the edge, even a 1" rail
could save you from taking a dip.
Things like that to put on your drawing board when it comes time to redo the deck.
happy and safe boating in the New Year !!!


----------



## derekdiruz (Jan 7, 2017)

on a very similar hull, i had a deck as you described. I transitioned from your exact set up now, to what you are inquiring about. I didn't notice much difference at all in stability. both times, it was a very stable platform given what you're working with.


----------



## mrdrh99 (Jan 7, 2017)

derekdiruz said:


> on a very similar hull, i had a deck as you described. I transitioned from your exact set up now, to what you are inquiring about. I didn't notice much difference at all in stability. both times, it was a very stable platform given what you're working with.


Yes... Stability, because raising that deck gives me extra storage underneath, and makes mounting my trolling motor much much easier


----------



## Vader809 (Jan 10, 2017)

I have a 16' just like yours.I like a deep platform,myself.I tried it flush and didn't feel safe. I made a flat pad for my TM, because the bow had a curved shape and I didn't want to shim my #80 Terrova,that would put too much torque on the aluminum bow plate.Now I have a nice flat bow pad. Plus I have plenty of storage. I placed three batteries in back,two under the rear seat and one in a box against the port side transom,that one is glued in place and has not moved in two years.I used a high quality epoxy, that I got from a friend in the Air National Guard. He glued it for me, he wore a gas mask, some real strong stuff, I could smell it in my garage for almost a week. This summer he is going to do some work on my trailer,he's an air frame tech for helicopters.He said he could paint it if I like military green/black. :wink: I think I will stick the Royal Blue! The inside needs a couple more coats and that should be good enough.


----------



## mrdrh99 (Jan 23, 2017)

So... Here's where I'm at...

Decided to cut the casting deck in half and have a larger floor. I did remove the center bench seat, and I will replace the foam and re support the middle of the boat. I did remove the aluminum nose piece and cut a new one from wood. Will glass this and figure how to support the center span... Probably aluminum. Floor will be just shy of 4' x 5'6"


----------



## richg99 (Jan 23, 2017)

I like it..


----------



## mrdrh99 (Jan 23, 2017)

Me too... Makes that 14ft seem a lot larger!


----------



## mrdrh99 (Jan 30, 2017)

So, after a lot of thinking, I've decided to pull everything, start from the ground up. All the foam under the benches is water logged, so they're coming out. I'll do the blue panel insulation down the entire floor bow to stern. I'm going to rebuild the interior just like the tracker v 16 tiller. I love the open floor with useful side panels. I think I'm going to put my electronics and some dry storage on one side, and maybe a small rod locker or open rod storage on the other. Build the deck with access hatches for tackle and my batteries under the front deck. I already have LED strips to light both storage and the deck. Biggest idea I think I want to try is to mount my driver's seat to a cooler and mount that to the rear of the open floor. I also think I'm going to add a tiller extension so I can cruise around standing up like I used to on the cost.

Here's what I want it to look like



Here's where I am as of today






9.9 Johnson w/e start, 30# Minn Kota tiller on transom, 43# motor guide 12v on the front. 2 lowrance elite hdi units


----------



## mrdrh99 (Jan 30, 2017)

Ha! This is a perfect example of what I want to do with my cooler/seat.


----------



## Macrosill (Feb 1, 2017)

I started my mod back in 2013 and it is not finished due to life getting in the way. I am redo'ing it from scratch this year. My plan is basically the same layout as the Tracker 16 tiller design you are using. I will be watching your build closely. 

I looked at some other photos of the Tracker 16 tiller and some are carpet but the photo you posted looks like some kind of hard finish. Any ideas what it is?

edit: On a youtube ad it indicates a vinyl floor. I like it!


----------



## richg99 (Feb 1, 2017)

I believe that the vinyl flooring is this material, or something similar. 

I have it. It isn't soft like carpet, and can be a bit slippery....but it cleans up well.

I like it. richg99

https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C2276179%7C2276198%7C2276202&id=23740


----------



## mrdrh99 (Feb 4, 2017)

Yeah I don't know if I'm going to carpet or not. My original plan is a deck resurfacer from Lowe's, I work there and can get a gallon of that stuff for $5. It feels nice on the bar feet. Thinking of a couple small spots of anti fatigue meeting also, especially up front at the trolling motor.


----------



## mrdrh99 (Feb 4, 2017)

It's too cold to do much of anything right now.... Except some of the paint prep. I'm not stripping down to bare aluminum. 90% of the paint is in sound condition. Lots of cracking around the rail. I took a wire brush on my drill and went to work. I figured any paint that can hold up to the brush will be fine to prime and paint over. Seems like I should be able to run over the whole boat in a couple days. Then I'm going to break out the power washer. I'm going to use Rust-Oleum auto primer in a rattle can. Then roll Rust-Oleum smoke gray on the bottom, and gloss white on the top half. All gray interior. Will also get the trailer primed with rusty metal primer and sprayed with krylon rust prevention that I already had.


----------



## mrdrh99 (Feb 4, 2017)

I've got all this stuff wire wheeled super smooth.... Wouldn't you think that if the wire wheel doesn't take it off it'll be fine to prime and paint?


----------



## richg99 (Feb 4, 2017)

I don't know the answer about "will the wire brushing be good enough?"...but I agree that it should be. 

Also of interest, though, is the tiny metal particles that spin off of the wire wheel. If ANY of them remain, they will rust through your new paint. 

When I had Fiberglass sailboats, we used bronze steel wool, instead of regular steel wool, just to avoid the rusting issues. I guess I'd get some tack clothes and really rub down everywhere you wire brushed. 

richg99


----------



## mrdrh99 (Feb 4, 2017)

Thanks Rich, I plan on sitting her on her side and thoroughly TSP and then pressure wash it, I would think that should get any remaining gunk and specks out. There are several holes along the rail I'll need to patch with JB weld. I think this paint is going to look really good. I can't remember seeing an aluminum boat painted these colors. (Smoke gray bottom/gloss white upper)


----------



## Johnny (Feb 5, 2017)

Rich - speaking of the wire brush.
I purchased a rotary BRASS brush for my angle grinder
only to find out after using it heavily that it is actually
brass PLATED stainless wire - not a solid brass wire. 
(but at least it was stainless sub-wire).
the cheaper "brass" rotary wire wheel that goes in a drill
was the same - only it was only brass coated regular wire
that rusted like crazy...... I tossed it.
the real test of what you have is to leave it outside in the
rain for a few days - then you will know for sure.
(nooooooo I didn't forget where I put it - it was a contolled test method) HaHaHa

just read the hype in the fine print on the back of the package.






.


----------



## Johnny (Feb 5, 2017)

mrdrh99 - after all your abrasive prepping, come back and
feather edge the existing paint with sandpaper to remove the rough edges.
IMO, that is where the new paint will fail first.
then once it starts, it is difficult to control.


----------



## mrdrh99 (Feb 5, 2017)

Thanks Johnny, will definitely do that, do you agree that what the wire brush won't take off will be fine to prime and paint over? I'm not trying to take any short cuts but I'm also not "looking" for extra stuff to do.... She's a fishing boat, not a Chris Craft


----------



## Johnny (Feb 5, 2017)

existing paint - - - - sand it, wire brush it, poke it, pull it, scratch it, 
until you are confident that it is sticking good . . . . then proceed with your primer.
Like Rich said - if it ain't peeling, paint it.


----------



## mrdrh99 (Feb 5, 2017)

Starting to frame up everything. It's gonna be drop in, but it'll never go anywhere.


----------



## mrdrh99 (Feb 10, 2017)

So...60° today... Got the boat off the trailer, while prepping for paint, I looked at the trailer. It's structurally sound, Kudu looks rough.... Like an old boat trailer. So, figured since I have the boat off, I should go ahead and deal with the trailer. Wire wheeled off the cracking paint and some rush. Sprayed with krylon rust primer, and will use krylon black spray paint. Nothing fancy, just cleaning it up.


----------



## mrdrh99 (Feb 10, 2017)

Primer is drying, I'll put pics of the printer and finished paint later today


----------



## richg99 (Feb 10, 2017)

Lots of work. but it will be worth it.

You are fortunate that you can work with the boat off of it. 

Most of my similar projects required doing most of the work while lying on your back under the boat and trailer. Then, a trip to the shoreline, where I'd drop the boat in and try to finish the job in an hour or so.

Keep us posted. richg99


----------



## mrdrh99 (Feb 10, 2017)

OK... Here it is... Primer:




And then a coat of flat black:





I'll probably do a second coat on the main areas that you can see when the boat is on there. This was mainly asthetic only, it was in good shape. Wire wheel showed me that at one point it was yellow!?!? But it was in good shape.... Just figured why not when I already had the boat off.


----------



## richg99 (Feb 10, 2017)

I like the black. Easy to touch up. 
richg99


----------



## mrdrh99 (Feb 10, 2017)

Exactly! I'm thinking about using some rubber undercoating on the fenders, top and bottom. Replacing the lights with some standard submersible ones, and cleaning up the wiring. Other thing on my mind... If I can do it on the cheap, is replacing the rollers with carpeted bunks, but I'm not really wanting to invest in any metal/aluminum to do it. If I can use what's there and add bunks on it I think I will.


----------



## richg99 (Feb 10, 2017)

*Replacing the lights with some standard submersible ones*

You might consider replacing them with LED lights. Run a separate white ground wire from each light to the front and you can forget all of the old, normal, issues with incandescent bulbs.

I think Amazon or WalMart has some inexpensive ones.

richg99


----------



## mrdrh99 (Feb 10, 2017)

Thanks Rich, hadn't thought about that.... I'll look into it!


----------



## mrdrh99 (Feb 13, 2017)

I've beat the boat to death with a wire wheel. Doing a final once over with 180 grit, then hitting the bottom with Rust-Oleum rattle can primer today


----------



## mrdrh99 (Feb 15, 2017)

OK.... Boat bottom is almost ready for primer. I almost thought I was going to get away with no transom work..... [-X 









But, think I got lucky. Under that piece of wood, the aluminum was in good shape. And it's all aluminum on the inside of the hull. 





So, I'm going to cut those rivets flush, JB weld or 5200 over them. Prime, paint. And put a larger piece of wood on the transom. In case someone ever puts a larger ob on here.


----------



## Johnny (Feb 15, 2017)

good job so far !

personally, I would put the rivets in from the outside (if you can)
and have the tail on the inside of the boat.
then, cut it off and hammer flat prior to sealing.


----------



## mrdrh99 (Feb 15, 2017)

OK, didn't go with 2x primer, I decided on Rust-Oleum auto primer, since it specifically states to use with the paint I plan to use





So, this is a light coating on the bottom, 2 cans of primer. Weather was a little cool today, 51° for a high, so I'm letting it dry overnight. Looked pretty good to me. 





Will begin roll and tip with Rust-Oleum smoke gray tomorrow. Thinking 2 coats, and then letting it cure for a good week before flipping it back over.


----------



## mrdrh99 (Feb 17, 2017)

1st coat of paint. Rust-Oleum enamel, smoke gray. First time doing a roll and tip, looks good to me. Will sand with a320 grit, wash, dry, and do a second coat in a couple of days. Then it'll sit a week or so while I do my transom work and wire wheel then sand the top.


----------



## richg99 (Feb 17, 2017)

Purty!


richg99


----------



## mrdrh99 (Feb 19, 2017)

So... I want to sand and lay one more coat. At this point, do I wash again or do tack cloth?


----------



## Johnny (Feb 19, 2017)

good job so far !! 
almost all solvent based paints should be at least scuffed up prior to additional coats.
some oil based paints say to recoat within one hour or after that, wait 24 - 48 hours between coats.
and again, ambient temperatures above 65-70* is the key to a successful finish.
no need to wash again unless it is dirty. tack cloth is always a good idea.
also, after scuffing/sanding, it is a good idea to vacuum all the nooks and crannies.
what do the instructions on the can of paint that you are using say ?


and by "tack cloth", I mean the cloth that has been treated and kept in an air-tight jar.
if you don't have one, google up "how to make a tack cloth"






.


----------



## mrdrh99 (Feb 21, 2017)

Coat 2 done on the bottom. Weather today, 74°, 36% humidity, tomorrow 71° with humidity about the same. Then cooler weather starts to move back in, with snow on Friday. Hopefully, it'll cure enough over the next couple days to flip back over on the trailer so that 3 inches of snow isn't sitting on it for days!


----------



## mrdrh99 (Apr 8, 2017)

Hey guys! Over a month since anything had been done due to a new job (state job... Yay), crappy weather up here in Omaha, and well, life in general. But we're rolling today! Got the top half of the boat sanded and ready for paint. Biggest thing is I got 2 sheets of plywood. Got one cut and fitted for the floor, and it's glorious and huge! I attached some 2x2 stringers under that fit snuggly beside the ribs. I used a good quality valspar exterior paint that I had sitting around, 3 good coats on the bottom. Once dried I flipped it over and applied the first coat of this Rust-Oleum restore. Just a reminder that I got the 3 gallon bucket for $10! So I figured I'd it doesn't work I'm not out a huge sum of $. First coat is drying and looks good. If I get a couple years out of it I'm happy. $10 for a non skid?! Yep! 









Should be finishing up the deck tomorrow. Electronics next week


----------



## richg99 (Apr 8, 2017)

Looking good. I particularly like the pebbly appearance.

richg99


----------



## mrdrh99 (Apr 8, 2017)

Thanks Rich, yeah it looks nice, and after drying for 6 hours or so it's not nearly as abrasive as it looks....I like to fish barefooted and I think this will work.


----------



## mrdrh99 (Apr 9, 2017)

Floor is dry, that stuff is awesome, just depends on how it holds up. Got the first coat of white sprayed on. Looks better in person than in the photo. Will tape and get the lines cleaned up.


----------



## mrdrh99 (Apr 16, 2017)

Clean lines





And coating on the floor and deck is done


----------



## richg99 (Apr 16, 2017)

Looks good. Time to go fishing.

richg99


----------



## mrdrh99 (Apr 16, 2017)

All I got left is to mount the motors and run the electrical, but the do dads can come in time.... The basics are there!


----------



## mrdrh99 (Apr 19, 2017)

Ok... Small project today, built framing for the nose out of 2x2s, used ss lath screws to attach around the edges. Looks good and solid as a rock.... Ok at least as my deck...I had to stand on it just because.... Ready for the motor guide 43# I got for a steal at the end of last year... Maybe will take care of that tomorrow.


----------



## mrdrh99 (Apr 20, 2017)

TM is mounted.... Motorguide 12v 43# power plus series. I picked it up for $40 late last fall. It's mounted securely, but I could easily reposition if need. It just seems awfully big for this boat. What do you guys think?













I know the shaft is bent a little but it works really well....I did water test it last year but not while fishing. Anyways... I'll give it a try and could easily sell it for $100 if I don't like it and grab a used power drive unit. We'll see....


----------



## mrdrh99 (Apr 23, 2017)

Motors back on, ready to go fishing! I do have more work to do in the back but it's all pretty much asthetic. Put navigation lights, bilge pump in. Using a group 27 battery box to make an electrical center for the fish finders, bilge pump, nav and compartment lights. It'll have A 4 gang switch, neg and pos buss bars... The works.


----------



## VAbassin (Apr 24, 2017)

Just for you to have peace at mind, the trolling motor always feels big on our vhulls. It's just kind of the nature of the beast. Looks good though man! 

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk


----------



## jethro (Apr 27, 2017)

The only thing about the trolling motor I found on my 14' tin, I ended up remounting it because I found I did not like any part of the motor extending past the gunwale when it's stowed. Not at the bow, you can't avoid that, but when you tie up to docks or whatever the head of the motor would bang the dock because it's way outboard of the gunwale. It appears yours in the same. So from now on I make sure the head is located within the boat when it's stored.

I also really like having it mounted on a quick release plate. I agree, they are beastly things that seem out of place on small tins, I really like being able to take it off when I go salmon fishing or for a pleasure cruise.


----------



## mrdrh99 (Apr 27, 2017)

How did I not think about that?!?!

Wouldn't take a whole lot of effort to re position it so I'll def do that


----------



## mrdrh99 (May 5, 2017)

Ok... Fishing time tomorrow. The front 2/3 of the boat is done (minus a couple lights under the deck). Deck pin style swivel seat done, I have 2 lowrance elite hdi units sounded, one on the bow tm, the other on the transom. TM is mounted, forward deck and large floor in place. Battery up front with wires ran through pvc for protection. I'm not entirely sure how I want the back end done. I'm going to take it out a few times before I decide. I'm thinking I want a nice size deck back there with ample storage underneath.... We'll see. But it's time to hit the water!


----------



## richg99 (May 5, 2017)

She certainly is "purty".

Just remember, every deck, etc. adds weight. richg99


----------



## mrdrh99 (May 5, 2017)

Finally! Took her out today! Deck and floor are awesome... The Rust-Oleum restore feels really nice on the bare feet... Now just to see how long it holds up, but it turning out to be a very nice low cost non skid option. Boat is very stable, but maybe it's just because I'm used to her and have a decent set of sea legs. Definitely going to mod the back end a little... Nothing crazy. 

Biggest take away... That trolling motor is just too big. It's usable until I find a good deal on a power drive unit. I just don't have the room for that big foot pedal and cable. Think I may splurge and get a newer unit, but I'm really planning on selling this boat soon and step up to a either a nice 16ft Lund or find an older bass tracker to re build.

Pics from today


----------



## mrdrh99 (May 8, 2017)

Traded that motorguide for a Minn Kota Auto pilot 42#

I'll get some pics up soon


----------



## mrdrh99 (May 9, 2017)

Got the new(er) tm mounted. Looks really good, and I'm really excited about the extra space on the deck, any the ability to use the pedal towards the back of the boat. Also got a new cleat and anchor pulley mounted up front.


----------



## richg99 (May 10, 2017)

Go fishin'.


----------



## mrdrh99 (May 10, 2017)

Rich... Fished with the old one this past weekend... Taking this one out tomorrow! Then hitting the big pike lake Saturday morning.... Next week is time to finish the back deck and electrical.... Then I'm done!


----------



## richg99 (May 10, 2017)

I am old. Don't trade fishing time for fixing time. Do the fixing in the Winter in Neb.

We have very little fixing time in the Winter in Houston.

Ha Ha richg99


----------



## mrdrh99 (May 23, 2017)

Ok.... For now... I'm happy with the front deck. On to the back. I tore it all out tonight and started the framing for a deck on the back large enough to stand on and fish.... Only question, is the back end as stable as the front with the more shallow and rounded bottom. However... Even if I can't stand and fish from this new back deck, it's going to open up a lot of wasted space for storage and my switch panel that I'll flush mount on top. Thinking of leaving it open across the bottom for ease of access to tackle, life preserver and such. I'll put a divider in to separate the storage from the bilge. I'm going close in the sides to add the foam that was in the rear bench seat, plus I have plenty under the floor. I have another pin style seat base I'll mount on the deck. Anyways, here is a couple of pics showing the framing (without vertical supports I'll be adding) and a mock up piece of wood I had in the garage from an old project.









Let me know what you think!

Even with adding this large deck to the back, I still have a larger than average floor in the center of the boat, more than enough room for standing/walking around with a large cooler on board


----------



## gatorglenn (May 23, 2017)

It should be more stable because it's flat back there on the bottom. That boat really 14 feet? I don't know just from these pictures it looks bigger maybe it's a 14'11"


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mrdrh99 (May 24, 2017)

gatorglenn said:


> It should be more stable because it's flat back there on the bottom. That boat really 14 feet? I don't know just from these pictures it looks bigger maybe it's a 14'11"
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



You got the best of my curiosity since I had never actually measured.... However, it actually measured 13'8"... And yeah, I'm surprised also....I had always thought it looked longer.... Maybe it's just the v hull?


----------



## gatorglenn (May 24, 2017)

Thanks, but it is surprising I would of lost money. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## richg99 (May 24, 2017)

Please consider adding enough temporary weight, equal to the new deck...and take her out. 

Years ago, I added a rear deck. Boat wouldn't plane until I removed it. Five gallon buckets full of water weight about 42 lbs each.
richg99


----------



## mrdrh99 (May 24, 2017)

Thing is Rich, no lake around Omaha will let me even try! It's all no wake/5mph here, which is why I haven't gotten a larger ob


----------



## richg99 (May 24, 2017)

Well then, you don't have to worry about ever getting on plane. Might be a good thing. Ha Ha. richg99


----------



## mrdrh99 (May 24, 2017)

Lol, so it did plane out the one time I took it to a non restricted lake in Iowa, that was before the decks and floors. I knew right then that once I added everything to it, it would need more hp to plane, but for the local conditions I just don't see the point.


----------

