# Anybody here ever converted a bench seat into a livewell?



## BloodStone (Nov 13, 2014)

*Hello all;
Getting ready to start a new boat project (maybe.. :-k ). 
It's an aluminum 1976 "Browning Aerocraft Super Guide 16" 5' wide, deep & 16' long.
It came with a 1988 40hp Nissan OB (controls included) & a decent trailer with 12" tires (initial cost $425.00-gotta love CL!!). 
The motor needed a new impeller, fuel pump & new fuel lines (just replaced them whether it was needed or not). Motor runs fantastic now.
https://www.aerocraft-boats.org/boats/1167/index.html (not the exact boat I purchased-natch!) but you get the idea.
Anyway, the really weird thing about this particular boat is it has a factory installed (aka riveted) side console & bench seats :shock: . And unfortunately, the previous owner did a half ass mod (aka completely removed 2 out of the 4 bench seats & put ZERO bracing in ](*,) plus used drywall screws, laid a treated plywood floor but used untreated wood stringers etc..). Anway, the person removed the very top of the front bench seat (running port to starboard), left the rest of the seat intact & placed decking over the top. What I was wanting to do is, convert this bench seat "cavity" into a live-well by sealing it up somehow so it'll hold water. Has anyone here tried this type of mod successfully & what did you use for sealant (preferably non-toxic to fish)?
Thanks in advance*


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## SaltyGhost (Nov 13, 2014)

Home Depot sells aquarium sealant. Ya know, for pet fish tanks. It's non-toxic and FDA approved.


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## earl60446 (Nov 13, 2014)

I think it would be very unlikely to make it watertight. Better to go with something to fit inside of the enclosure already built. Heavy plastic or welded aluminum. Don't want to use a structural piece of the boat for the livewell.
Tim


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## overboard (Nov 13, 2014)

I was thinking the same thing, fit something inside of the seat.


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## jtrip (Nov 14, 2014)

You could use one inch styrofoam to line the inside and bottom. Then use fiber glass cloth and resin to seal it. Lots of options for plumbing, lights and lid.


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## jigngrub (Nov 14, 2014)

It sounds like you have quite a bit of work to do to make that boat safe/sea worthy before you start thinking about a livewell.
1. Remove and replace pressure treated lumber with non-pressure treated lumber. (PT is highly corrosive to aluminum)
2. Install bracing or decks to compensate for the loss of structural strength due to the removal of the 2 benches.
3. Install floatation foam to compensate for the foam that was removed for the bastardization of that boat.

Then when all that's done you can go to Basspro or Cabelas online and they have the plastic tub inserts for livewells, pumps, and hoses.


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## BloodStone (Nov 14, 2014)

jigngrub said:


> It sounds like you have quite a bit of work to do to make that boat safe/sea worthy before you start thinking about a livewell.
> 1. Remove and replace pressure treated lumber with non-pressure treated lumber. (PT is highly corrosive to aluminum)
> 2. Install bracing or decks to compensate for the loss of structural strength due to the removal of the 2 benches.
> 3. Install floatation foam to compensate for the foam that was removed for the bastardization of that boat.
> Then when all that's done you can go to Basspro or Cabelas online and they have the plastic tub inserts for livewells, pumps, and hoses.



*Thanks but, I was already was well aware of these aforementioned facts (not my first time at the dance, not being rude/arrogant just saying). I just like to plan ahead (possibilities) so I don't pull a Homer Simpson (D'OH!) & have to tear apart & re-do something. As far as PT lumber goes, you can use it in an aluminum boat just as long as you have some sort of barrier between the treated wood & the aluminum itself (aka a good paint, plastic or rubberized coating etc..). Bracing is a no-brainer. I've water tested the boat already (aka taken it out) & it seemed fine but still... 
Foam installation given the dimensions & overall layout of this particular boat I think would be more for noise reduction than flotation should the boat become swamped. But, thanks for the tip about BP & Cabelas plastic tub inserts I'll check them out & see if they'll work in my situation.*


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## BloodStone (Nov 14, 2014)

earl60446 said:


> I think it would be very unlikely to make it watertight... Don't want to use a structural piece of the boat for the livewell.
> Tim



*Why not? Don't get me wrong, I'm listening but, I'm also pretty sure it'll be next to impossible to find something pre-made (aka store bought) that'll work well in that exact bench seat cavity. The appeal of just using that bench seat cavity alone is that it's long enough to accommodate some of the pike I catch that are sometimes over 3' long (work for big walleye too).
Having someone fabricate something out of aluminum I'm sure would not be cheap (don't own a Tig Welder, Mig yes Tig no). 
Although if push comes to shove, I suppose I could buy & then cut out the aluminum pieces myself (depending on how much 1/16+" aluminum plate costs-natch) & then pay someone to weld it altogether :-k Another possibility (though not my 1st choice) is to fabricate it out of 1/16" or slightly thicker steel plate & then use a good quality, water-proof paint to keep it from rusting. :-s *


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## jigngrub (Nov 14, 2014)

Bench seats aren't designed to withstand the lateral forces that filling it with water would create. Other than bowing the front and back sides out, the weight of the water will eventually weaken the rivets that hold the sides to the hull and you'll end up with a leaky livewell and leaky boat.

Here's the livewell tubs from Cabelas:
https://www.cabelas.com/product/Cabelas-Dry-StorLivewells/738031.uts?Ntk=AllProducts&searchPath=%2Fcatalog%2Fsearch%2F%3FN%3D%26No%3D0%26Ntk%3DAllProducts%26Ntt%3Dlivewell%26Ntx%3Dmode%252Bmatchallpartial%26WTz_l%3DHeader%253BSearch-All%2BProducts%26WTz_st%3D%26WTz_stype%3DSP%26form_state%3DsearchForm%26recordsPerPage%3D20%26search%3Dlivewell%26searchTypeByFilter%3DAllProducts%26x%3D13%26y%3D5&Ntt=livewell&WTz_l=Header%3BSearch-All+Products

Just because your boat "seems" fine with the missing structural components, doesn't mean it's going to stay "fine". Your boat will weaken over a matter of time and you'll start having problems later... loosening rivets, hull cracks and that sort of stuff.

Noise reduction is a secondary benefit for floatation foam, the primary benefit is to keep your boat from sinking to the bottom leaving you floundering and flapping around on the surface screaming for help and trying not to join your boat on the bottom.


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## BloodStone (Nov 14, 2014)

jigngrub said:


> Bench seats aren't designed to withstand the lateral forces that filling it with water would create. Other than bowing the front and back sides out, the weight of the water will eventually weaken the rivets that hold the sides to the hull and you'll end up with a leaky livewell and leaky boat.



*Ok, now this is an explanation I can not only comprehend but, come to terms with as well. * 




> Just because your boat "seems" fine with the missing structural components, doesn't mean it's going to stay "fine". Your boat will weaken over a matter of time and you'll start having problems later... loosening rivets, hull cracks and that sort of stuff.



*Again I know this & said as much in my initial reply to you. I've had to add braces in the past for my now finished & fished out of, 14.5' Meyers semi-v project. I removed one of the bench seats to make room for a side console & more floor space. Boat Works well with the 25hp Mariner on it (no flexing, cracking & or popped rivets). The only question I'd have is HOW much bracing & what style would I need that's functional but, not overly in the way?* 




> Noise reduction is a secondary benefit for floatation foam, the primary benefit is to keep your boat from sinking to the bottom leaving you floundering and flapping around on the surface screaming for help and trying not to join your boat on the bottom.



*Already knew this too. Just don't believe I could put enough flotation back into this boat to make totally not sinking a reality. And I'm not sure this particular boat had any more floatation than what was in the bench seats since apparently there was no flooring in it, just raw aluminum rowboat type flooring. Btw thanks for the Cabelas link :beer: (don't think it'll work in this particular situation or not-might be too big or tall).*


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## jigngrub (Nov 14, 2014)

BloodStone said:


> https://www.aerocraft-boats.org/boats/1167/index.html (not the exact boat I purchased-natch!) but you get the idea.



I see a lot of room in that boat for foam, storage, and a livewell. That hull is basically the same hull I'm working with right now:

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36143

We have 18+ cu. ft. of floatation foam in the boat now and room for more if we want, also have storage out the wazoo and room for a big livewell.


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## BloodStone (Nov 15, 2014)

jigngrub said:


> BloodStone said:
> 
> 
> > https://www.aerocraft-boats.org/boats/1167/index.html (not the exact boat I purchased-natch!) but you get the idea.
> ...



*Nice job =D> . 
But how much is this mod costing your friend, I mean in materials alone? Because I know that pink foam installation you used ain't cheap neither is the aluminum angle iron. Apparently you're a braver man than I, because I'd NEVER go with OSB in ANY boat mod anywhere-period! Simply because all it takes is one little missed spot, crack, or a hole plus very little H2O/moisture & in time that wood will swell up faster than Roseanne Barr at a Twinkee eating contest. And I've seen OSB completely covered in fiberglass & still... Btw, I couldn't see from the pics but, is that foam laying square on the floor? If it is, where would the water go (aka route) should you take on an unexpected wave or rainstorm (I.e. how does it flow to the back drain plug)? And how do you plan on doing the livewell (fabrication, livewell from another boat or converted cooler)? 
On my boat, the previous decking wasn't set up near as high as yours in the front & the back was rigged half ass (like 2/3rds of this boat is/was). I will say this, your project has one big advantage over mine in that, you don't have a built in factory side console (designed to be used with a bench seat) RIVETED to the hull & floor to contend with #-o . I guess I could cut it out & go with a separate side console (IF I can find one at a reasonable rate). Or try somehow to incorporate the existing SC & figure out a way to compensate for the height discrepancies (aka don't want a steering wheel located somewhere by my knee caps). You see, there is wooden flooring already in this boat that my fishing buddy & I like (aka height). It still must be replaced because like I said previously the dork used untreated stringers with PT ply on top (go figure!). The boat link I included shows NO floor in that particular boat with all the original seating unaltered. Therefore it works/fits with the boat. 
Anyway, I'll keep an eye on your current mod & maybe I'll incorporate some of your ideas (depending mainly on cost factor-natch!). Keep on keeping on..*


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## Whoopbass (Nov 17, 2014)

I had a 15' aluminum v-hull boat and I put a livewell in the middle bench. I made it out of fiberglass. It's fairly easy to do and cheaper then drop in livewells that won't fit right. I probably did not use it more then 20 times over the years but it never leaked, cracked, or created any issues with the boat. I used some thick plexi glass on each side for the top and the bench seat/lid covered the rest. I don't remember any water ever splashing out. The bench is too wide to make it entirely a livewell so I screwed some plywood on each side inside the bench and basically just glassed in a box. It was the first time I ever used fiberglass and it turned out so don't be scared to do it.


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## BloodStone (Nov 17, 2014)

Whoopbass said:


> I had a 15' aluminum v-hull boat and I put a livewell in the middle bench. I made it out of fiberglass. It's fairly easy to do and cheaper then drop in livewells that won't fit right. I probably did not use it more then 20 times over the years but it never leaked, cracked, or created any issues with the boat. I used some thick plexi glass on each side for the top and the bench seat/lid covered the rest. I don't remember any water ever splashing out. The bench is too wide to make it entirely a livewell so I screwed some plywood on each side inside the bench and basically just glassed in a box. It was the first time I ever used fiberglass and it turned out so don't be scared to do it.



*Do you have any pics of the construction of your bench seat livewell (a link maybe)?*


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## onthewater102 (Nov 17, 2014)

If I can ever find my card reader I'll get you pics of what I did - but I've been looking for a while for the little bugger and it might not be until black friday that I replace it. I used PVC sheeting to make a box and PVC angle on the outside to support it. Clear silicone caulk on the inside seams & cut-outs in the top for hatches. Once installed I back-filled around the sides and bottom with expanding urethane foam to prevent it from bowing outwards. Hopefully your decking will be sturdy enough for to support itself over the unsupported livewell, otherwise you'll just have to run ribs across the top of it as I did and lay your decking atop it.

You can't use the pink foam from a big box retailer and apply fiberglass directly to it without it dissolving, so forego that option. I wish I'd made the box structure out of FRP, supported the corners from the outside with thin aluminum angle riveted on and then fiberglass the inside corner edges over the rivets to get a nice clean seal. The PVC was just way too expensive (~$100 worth of materials vs. ~$50 had I made it from fiberglass in the first place.) 

You could then surround that box with your pink foam for support and insulation if you don't want to get involved with mixing expanding urethane marine foam.


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## Whoopbass (Nov 19, 2014)

I don't have pics. I also sold the boat earlier in the year.
I was having the same issues of adding a livewell and then a guy brought up the idea and I said what the heck....
It was my first time working with fiberglass and I pretty much sucked at it but it turned out pretty good in the end. I just bought 1/2 gallon of resin w/hardner, and several packages of fiberglass sheets.
Just pop off the seat and remove the foam. Decide how wide you want your livewell and then just cut out some plywood to fit inside the box. To get the plywood to stay add a piece of 2x4 on each end (cut it to fit right) and screw the plywood to that. Secure the plywood pieces to the bench seat with screws screwed from the outside of the bench seat directly into the 2x4's. You end up with a box. I ran my bilge pump aerator wiring and plumbing before I glassed everything in. Looking back I would probably just cut through fiberglass after it was cured with a hole saw for the plumbing. The wiring you can either add it before or just run it down through the top. I installed a bilge pump at the back of the boat with a pvc pipe running to the livewell. I cut a hole at the back of the boat and installed the fittings to hook up the bilge pump to. I could then flip a switch and fill up the livewell. 
Since the box is open at the top you need to enclose that partially. There are many ways to do it but I just used stuff I had laying around since it was the cheapest way of doing it. I screwed in some 2x2's at the top so I ended up with a wood frame inside top of the box. I then ran a 2x2 in the middle of the wood frame to each side for support. I had some thick plexi glass so I added about a 8" piece to each side to enclose it some. So what I had was about a 32" rectangular box with 8" of plexi glass on each side. Then I had the 2x2 down the middle so I had about 8" of open space on each side of the 2x2. 

There was open space on each end of the livewell so I turned that into storage. I cut the plywood seat into three pieces and put hinges on them and secured them back down to the aluminum bench. 
With a full livewell it added quite a bit of weight so make sure you don't make your livewell too big. I had a 25hp motor and it would struggle some to get on plane. I probably made my livewell top large.

The livewell never cracked or leaked which I was concerned about at first. If I had used it more it may have so be aware.

Anyway's, its not that hard to do but I remember it was messy. Do a search on how to lay fiberglass because I did get large bubbles in mine that I had to deal with. My livewell turned out kinda rough looking so I spray painted it gray primer to hide my ugly work but it looked decent after that. I mostly used it for dry storage since my boat leaked. I just plugged up the pvc pipe with a livewell plug and that kept the water out.


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## critterfish (Nov 20, 2014)

I had an aluminum box fabbed up that was open on top with a half inch lip turned out. The actual box was about 1 1/2" narrower than my bench (front to back), 24" long (side to side in the bench), 18" deep. I took the middle bench seat out of my boat, took out the foam and inserted the box up into the bench seat with the open top with the lip turn out against the bottom of the bench and riveted it in from the top. I then reinstalled the bench in the boat and cut a hole in the top of the bench seat over the box the size I wanted my access. I bought some 1/8" thick x 1 1/2" wide and 1/8" x 3/4" aluminum flat bar to make my slide track for my sliding access door. I got the aluminum sheeting for the door from the fab shop that welded up my box. I installed a removable 1/2" overflow stand pipe that drains out the back of the boat when water reaches that level or I remove it to drain most of the water out. I also put a 2" overflow out the side of the box out through the side of the boat hull for good measure should my minute man timer switch on the aerator livewell pump ever fail in the on position. I installed a through the hull aerator livewell pump in the back and piped it in to a spray nozzle in the livewell and a drain plug in the bottom of the livewell that just drains into the boat bilge just so I can get that last little bit of water out. Most drains out the back when I pull the stand pipe out. Works great! Sorry I don't have step by step pictures. Didn't think of it at the time.


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