# Are my bunks too long for 1436



## Wallyrosie (Mar 21, 2016)

Hi with a lot of help from this forum I'm almost done building a trailer for a Lund 1436 that I don't pick up until the end of the month and can't decide best placement and length for the bunks... The 2x4s in the pic are 10 ft long and I was wondering how far they should hang off the rear of the trailer and are they too long in front for a Lund 1436? Thank you in advance for your help?


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## Ictalurus (Mar 21, 2016)

You should be good to go w/ 10 foot bunks. You may have to adjust them once you get the boat, balance and all. Just make sure the bunks extend to or slightly past the transom.


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## -CN- (Mar 21, 2016)

Looks to me like you're gonna have to move them back so that they reach the rear of the boat. And you shouldn't need 10 ft for a 14 ft boat. I got 8 footers on mine and they're the same length as the flat part of the boat.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Mar 21, 2016)

Until you have the boat on the trailer you won't know where it's going to sit to get the prober tongue weight and bunk location.


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## Wallyrosie (Mar 24, 2016)

Thanks for the input everyone... I ended up driving the hour to go look at and measure the boat. It's a 14 ft boat that has 9ft of flat bottom and the outside of ridges on the bottom were 22 inches apart so im going to cut the 2x4s down to 9ft 6in and space them far enough apart so they don't sit on the rivets. Wow can't wait to get the boat here and start the build on that.


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## momule (May 9, 2016)

I agree with having the boat in hand to see where it's going to lie. Leave the bunks alone before you get the boat and take a saw with you when you pick it up. You absolutely must have the bunks supporting the transom and extending some inches past to allow for changes when loading and you don't need the bunks to extend past where the hull starts bending up to the front. You might think about laying the 2X4 on their 4" sides to better support the hull since you are only using two bunks. My 1448 is supported with 4 - 2X4 on their 2" sides but they are only 6' long. The bow is supported by a higher 2X4 about 3' long sitting side to side under the boat. The thing to consider is not the boat weight sitting on the trailer but rather what happens when the boat bounces fully loaded off and back down on the trailer when you hit an unexpected bump. That's why I use 4 bunks instead of only 2 and I always tow with the boat strapped to the trailer from the winch and also at the stern. And, by the way, from your pics it looks like you are buying from a dealer so they'll be happy to help you out if they see something that you should be concerned about....they want you to be a happy boater so you'll give them more of your money


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## nowgrn4 (May 22, 2016)

You need to get the boat on the trailer and adjust the crank stand and hull forward or back to get your correct tongue weight first thing. I try for around 15% of complete rig, hull, trailer, engine, fuel tank, batteries and gear using a bath scale. After hull placement on the trailer is finalized then do your bunks. If you have clearance between the hull and fenders I would delete those 6 bunk supports and attach the bunks horizontally right to the two trailer frame cross members. Countersink carriage bolts 1/4" deep with a wood bore first then drill through the bunk and frame with the correct diameter drill bit and bolt right to the frame. Lower is always better for launching and retrieval.


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## CedarRiverScooter (May 22, 2016)

Great advice above on bolting direct to trailer frame. One thing i did in addition to this is run 2 - 2x4s along side of tongue up to the winch mast. I can walk it off in cold water without getting my feet wet.


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## Steve A W (May 23, 2016)

I think you might want to rethink that spare tire rack.
That'l be a bear to get to when a tire go's flat.
Nice lookin boat.

Steve A W


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