# Splicing 6-gauge wire



## Deadmeat (Jan 17, 2010)

I'm in the final stages of doing some boat mods and had a senior moment yesterday. I ran 6-gauge wire from the trolling motor on the deck to the rear of the boat and had some left over. I measured where the battery was going to go and cut the positive wire to length. Then I decided to re-route the wire to a more protected area. Big mistake. Now it's about a foot too short but it's already been cut and I need to splice in a piece of 6-gauge wire to get it to the positive terminal. I made a run to Home Depot and Lowe's but couldn't find anything to make the splice. I couldn't find any butt connectors that were big enough. Yes, I could go back to my original plan and have enough to do the job but I'd rather not if I can find a way to make this work. Can anyone out there tell me how to make the splice?


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## Captain Ahab (Jan 17, 2010)

You probably woudl want to use something like this:







That you can purchase here:

https://www.grainger.com/Grainger/b...s/electrical/ecatalog/N-8hxZ1z1025s?op=search


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## crazymanme2 (Jan 17, 2010)

` I usually have numerous sizes of copper tubing around so I'll find the right size & use that & solder.Either shrink tube it or use hot glue gun to make it water proof.I also use copper tubing when I need a connector on the end of a wire.Flatten end of copper tubing,drill hole,than solder wire to other end of tubing.


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## Deadmeat (Jan 17, 2010)

I'm confused. Why do you drill a hole in the copper tubing?


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## crazymanme2 (Jan 17, 2010)

Sorry if I confused you.To make this kind of connector.I was explaining other ways to use copper tubing other than for splicing.


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## Deadmeat (Jan 17, 2010)

Ah, now I understand. Thanks.


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## danmyersmn (Jan 17, 2010)

That is a great idea to use copper tubing then shrink tubing over it. I don't know if you can find copper tubing small enough? Maybe take a piece of 1/4" and slice a cut in the length of it so that it can overlap itself to become small enough for the wire. Other then that it should work perfect and I know I will remember that solution when I need to solve the same problem.


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## crazymanme2 (Jan 17, 2010)

You can get copper tubing down to 1/8 inch.How small do you need it :?:


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## Deadmeat (Jan 17, 2010)

Don't know about him but I need it the right size to cram in a 6-gauge wire from each end. Great idea and thanks.


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## redbug (Jan 17, 2010)

no matter what type of splice you use it will cause a drop in voltage and performance.
it might only be a slight drop but it will drop off.


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## Truckmechanic (Jan 17, 2010)

crazymanme2 said:


> ` I usually have numerous sizes of copper tubing around so I'll find the right size & use that & solder.Either shrink tube it or use hot glue gun to make it water proof.I also use copper tubing when I need a connector on the end of a wire.Flatten end of copper tubing,drill hole,than solder wire to other end of tubing.



Now I know I belong here...this is the same things I do. 


This is the way I would repair the wire, if it was coming from the battery directly i would probably use 2 peices of shrink just to be safe.


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## Captain Ahab (Jan 17, 2010)

redbug said:


> no matter what type of splice you use it will cause a drop in voltage and performance.
> it might only be a slight drop but it will drop off.



Correct! And if it is not done correctly you will also cause a "hot" spot that can melt the insulation (or worse)


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## jdd5p (Jan 17, 2010)

You could use a split bolt connector. You can find them at Lowe's, or anywhere that has electrical supplies.


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## redbug (Jan 18, 2010)

jdd5p said:


> You could use a split bolt connector. You can find them at Lowe's, or anywhere that has electrical supplies.


Split bolts are junk dont waste the money....


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## Oddagus (Jan 19, 2010)

I guess I have made thousands of splices in my career and nothing beats the correct connector, the right crimping tool, and adhesive filled heat shrink. The voltage drop in DC wiring is considerable and that can cause trouble with trolling motors and such. Use the correct crimp by T&B or another reputable manufacturer. Ask someone who works as an electrician, or a Plant maintenance job for the use of the correct crimping tool. You want be sorry. I know it's hard to find the correct crimp tool, try your local electrical distributor. Sometimes, they have the tool for lending if you buy your connectors there.


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## Hydrilla (Jan 22, 2010)

I was thinking the same thing as these guys... you could do like I did when I did the exact same thing with 6 gauge wire, and that is swallow my pride and go back to Lowes and buy all new wire.  :roll:  I have peace of mind about it now, and that was worth it.




Captain Ahab said:


> redbug said:
> 
> 
> > no matter what type of splice you use it will cause a drop in voltage and performance.
> ...


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## Oddagus (Jan 22, 2010)

Wiring boats seems to be a real hot topic both here and on other forums. I see a lot of threads on the type and use of various wire. After trial and error I have found the best thing is to break down and use marine wire. Anyone that is going to wire up any kind of boat owes it to themselves to check out websites like genuinedealz.com. They have good voltage drop tables and good prices on wiring supplies. They ship quick too. I am not affiliated with them, just a satisfied customer.
As far as the wire goes, your standard wire that Lowes etc. sells will be THHN. It has good electrical characteristics but is stiff and if it is used in any saltwater application can corrode faster than the tinned marine wire. The marine tinned wire generally has more individual conductors and is very flexible. In addition the insulation is very moisture and oil resistant. Compare a cheap piece of nylon rope with a good piece of braided nylon and you will appreciate the difference. 
I really like the connectors that Captain Ahab talked about, the one from Grainger. They make the connection from your #6 to the #8 or#10 trolling motor wiring pretty damn easy.One more thing, bring out the wallet and buy the correct fuse or breaker.


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## S&amp;MFISH (Jan 24, 2010)

Has anyone thought about going to the auto parts(I'm not talking AutoZone or O'Reilly's) store to find the splice connector you need.That is the same as battery cables for your car.Remenber to always solder, don't crimp,the connector.


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## Captain Ahab (Jan 24, 2010)

S&MFISH said:


> Has anyone thought about going to the auto parts(I'm not talking AutoZone or O'Reilly's) store to find the splice connector you need.That is the same as battery cables for your car.Remenber to always solder, don't crimp,the connector.



Actually for marine applications you should never solder as the vibrations will cause the solder to fails. And use marine connectors not automotive.


Of course, all depends on what you are doing and how accessible the area is


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## S&amp;MFISH (Jan 24, 2010)

Actually Captain,I've owned Drag Cars for 33years.They vibrate just as much or more than a boat,I've always soldered my battery connections because I haven't found a crimped connector that would hold up to the vibrations. A bad connection BURNS.
You can do it the way you want,but I never crimp,unless I have to.Solder and shrink tube,ALWAYS.Just my view,and I've never had a vehicle or boat electrical fire,EVER.


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## S&amp;MFISH (Jan 25, 2010)

Hey Capt.I have to eat my last post.I've found a really good article in the Feb'10 MotorBoating magazine. It describes the proper tools and techniques for crimping battery cables. It is on page72,named "Full Power",in the "BOATKEEPER" section.The article may possibly be accessed at www.motorboating.com .


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## bassangler33 (Feb 19, 2010)

In reading most of the post some are good ,but one way to still use the short wire is to mount a circuit breaker close to the battery and then use a short piece to the battery. This way your wiring will be protected.


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## wolfmjc (Feb 19, 2010)

The best way to fix a batt cable is to solder it. I am a mechanic and have built a couple drag cars in my time....napa has welding lugs for wire that are excellent to connect wires in the large sizes.....crimp the wires and solder the connection and heatshrink....i have never had a problem with this in any application yet...


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## Brine (Feb 20, 2010)

S&MFISH said:


> Hey Capt.I have to eat my last post.I've found a really good article in the Feb'10 MotorBoating magazine. It describes the proper tools and techniques for crimping battery cables. It is on page72,named "Full Power",in the "BOATKEEPER" section.The article may possibly be accessed at https://www.motorboating.com .



Direct Link
https://www.motorboating.com/articleHtml.jsp?ID=1000080305


Link to Crimping Tool Tutorial
https://www.roadtreker.com/documents/769FC950930F3E7F2F541FD223096A21B0686F61.html


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## CABINETMAN (Feb 21, 2010)

this is how i would fix the problem



bassangler33 said:


> In reading most of the post some are good ,but one way to still use the short wire is to mount a circuit breaker close to the battery and then use a short piece to the battery. This way your wiring will be protected.


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## Deadmeat (Feb 21, 2010)

Thanks. That's exactly what I did.


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## Graham (Feb 21, 2010)

I've just read that article from motorboating.com and one thing I noticed was in the last paragraph before the step by step he mentioned that you shouldn't get a shock from the positive terminal if you are not touching the metalwork of the boat. You shouldn't get a shock anyway, because you should have the negative terminal disconnected. I know most of you guys will know this already and have been practicing this for years, but there are probably people reading this thread and that article who don't know as much. Never, ever work on the battery wiring without disconnecting the negative terminal. Yes cover the negative terminal while you work on the positive terminal and use a wrench that is too short to reach between the two.


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## Defiant (Feb 22, 2010)

Actually Lowe's doe's have what you need there in the isle with the wire nuts .here is a link to what they look like you just have to wrap them with tape after installation. 

https://www.idealindustries.com/products/wire_termination/lugs/lugs_mech_splicer_reducer.jsp


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