# Mercury parts online?



## marshman (Sep 15, 2014)

Where is a good place online to order mercury parts?? Surely this day and age I can order parts and have them delivered to my house easier than go to a mercury service department twice to have then order then go back and pick it up...


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## JMichael (Sep 16, 2014)

There are lots of sources out there, here is one of my favorites. https://www.wholesalemarine.com/browse


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## onthewater102 (Sep 16, 2014)

I get mine through https://www.boats.net

another is https://www.marineengine.com

I compare prices back and forth between the two - usually boats.net is less expensive. Both offer a s/n based lookup and OEM parts diagrams to cross reference.


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## lovedr79 (Sep 16, 2014)

boats.net there is another thread on here about merc. parts.


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## marshman (Sep 16, 2014)

Thanks..


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## TexasLoneStar56 (Sep 16, 2014)

I stumbled onto a guy up north (I think Wisconsin, can't remember). He is the nicest guy and very helpful. He carries a lot of older Mercury parts. His name is John McIntosh. Here is the link to his store:

https://www.johnsmcintoshvintagemercuryoutboard.com/

He does not have an online order blank/e-commerce, but he does answer emails, takes phone calls, takes PayPal, credit/debit cards, and ships USPS - Fast. I recommend him to be a great source for older Mercs. He's sure helped us out.

Good Luck!
Keith
Texas


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## marshman (Sep 16, 2014)

I wouldnt really call my motor vintage... Lol

I found 2 possible donor motors today... Had my hands on them.. They both had the parts I need... The people are screwy to fool with tho..(they have hundreds and hundreds of motors laying around in all various forms of completeness... Some look great, some look worse than junk). One of them has a bad cylinder wall and he said no dice, not for sale-- they're gonna rebuild it and resell it.. The other has been sitting on a rack for a very long time collecting dust and spiderwebs, no cowling... Otherwise, appears all complete but he couldn't remember whT was wrong with it.. His pricing method was--- "it's not locked up, I can rebuild it and sell it for 1000..." I'm like "well, it looks to have been sitting here for a long time, I'll give you 300 and take it right now as is, and you don't have to worry about fooling with it". He said no, couldn't go less than 500.. 

I told him I can buy the parts I need for 200... I also told him I bet him 100 bucks that motor is still sitting there untouched in a month... 

I just would like to have gotten the whole thing in case I ever pop a lower unit, would've been nice to have one on hand..


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## TexasLoneStar56 (Sep 17, 2014)

Sorry you had to deal with that, but just think, there's something better out there that awaits you!

Hey, I checked on the website I gave for John McIntosh. He has been Merc dealer in Wisconsin for 35 years. His inventory of old-new stock is incredible. Tools too. If ya don't see it on his website, just shoot him an email or give him a call. Chances are, he has it and it's just not listed. Everything from the 50's to present.  

Keep us posted!
Keith
Texas


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## marshman (Sep 19, 2014)

Well.. I guess I screwed up... Restoring/customizing this extra 25 I bought...the guy I got it from had a real rough looking flat black paint job on it for duck hunting I assume...

Anyway, I decided to redo it but since it is black I just went with a dark metallic Charcoal rather than back to factory silvery gray... No real big deal...

The rubber boot at the cowling bottom,(more specifically called a "top cowl seal" via mercury marine) was cracked, dry rotted, partly missing so I peeled it off with plans to just buy a new one...

Well.... Mercury no longer sells just the boot.. Have to buy the whole cowling for 300 bucks!! I've already got about 10 hours worth of work stripping sanding and painting on this one, and new decals already made, not buying a new cowling...

Anybody have a source for this rubber boot by chance??


First 2 pics are my paint job progress, second 2 pics just show examples of the rubber trim
Boot I need...


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## onthewater102 (Sep 19, 2014)

No, but you can put a ring of insulated tape along the inside of the cowl where it overlaps the base to keep it from chattering - it will serve the same function but will not give you the finished look to the outside.


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## Y_J (Sep 19, 2014)

[url=https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?p=366597#p366597 said:


> onthewater102 » September 19th, 2014, 9:48 pm[/url]"]No, but you can put a ring of insulated tape along the inside of the cowl where it overlaps the base to keep it from chattering - it will serve the same function but will not give you the finished look to the outside.


That's where one of those razor knives would come in handy. I think they're called box cutters. Trim that puppy down to the edge.


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## Y_J (Sep 19, 2014)

[url=https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?p=366600#p366600 said:


> Y_J » September 19th, 2014, 10:00 pm[/url]"]
> 
> 
> [url=https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?p=366597#p366597 said:
> ...


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## marshman (Sep 19, 2014)

I've been Hunting around... May go with something like this...trying to find the right dimensions I want ...


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## Y_J (Sep 19, 2014)

I'm not familiar with that motor but just thinking out loud, Would some aquarium airline tubing work around the cowling base? Would be a lot less expensive.


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## marshman (Sep 20, 2014)

Not sure what aquarium airline hose looks like...but sorry I'm not running anything that looks redneck engineered... I've had someone else suggest rubber hose.. Sorry, I want it to look good, not rigged.... I'll pay a little extra... There's someone somewhere that makes that extruded rubber molding for mercury... Surely they'll sell it to me or surely there's someone that can duplicate it and sell it to me...


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## JMichael (Sep 20, 2014)

[url=https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?p=366609#p366609 said:


> marshman » Yesterday, 21:17[/url]"]I've been Hunting around... May go with something like this...trying to find the right dimensions I want ...


I've used this stuff before. It's pretty hard and I don't think you'd get a very good seal. Have you looked at the rubber seal they use on vehicle doors? I've got an extended cab truck and the seal that's attached to the leading edge of the rear half-door or something similar might work pretty nice.


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## Y_J (Sep 20, 2014)

No prob marshman.. I just thought if the motor had a groove around it for the cowling to fit in, the air line is small enough to fit in it and possibly not be seen. As I said, just thinking out loud.
Have a great evening.


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## SumDumGuy (Sep 22, 2014)

What's the p/n for the seal? If you know that you can hit-up ebay on/off until you find it.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mercury-New-OEM-Engine-Cover-Cowling-Hood-Rubber-Seal-8253182-8M0043273-75-90-/190815802727


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## marshman (Sep 25, 2014)

Its done minus the rubber seal..

I have the part number written down... Can't find it... I'm gonna try some rubber tape and layer it..


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## TexasLoneStar56 (Sep 26, 2014)

Looks good for a DYI! You did good!=D> 

Someone mentioned earlier about automotive door seal trim. I would go to an auto body paint/supply store and ask about it. It comes in various thickness dimensions as well as various widths. It is sold by the foot. It's made for inside/outside use; weather resistant; and once molded, stays in place with a touch of double sided auto emblem tape or glue. Has a nice professional look, too. (so says the opinion of my husband who is a 25+ year professional paint/body man....) 8) 

Other than that, you might try a boat shop with a bone yard and find a used one off another cowl and cut to fit, but it won't look as good. :? 

Best of luck!

Texas


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## marshman (Sep 26, 2014)

Thanks... I'm searching high and low...

Already tried boneyards... An old seal is a real pain to remove intact enough to reuse.. They staple it every 2 inches with some super heavy duty staples to attach it at the factory..


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## TexasLoneStar56 (Sep 27, 2014)

[url=https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?p=367091#p367091 said:


> marshman » 26 Sep 2014, 18:37[/url]"]Thanks... I'm searching high and low...
> 
> Already tried boneyards... An old seal is a real pain to remove intact enough to reuse.. They staple it every 2 inches with some super heavy duty staples to attach it at the factory..




Yes, you are right about the bone yards. That stapling is why I said go with new, and use tape or glue. Ordering door seal/trim from Chev, Ford, might be another alternative. In the South, we have Auto Parts Warehouse. They are based out of Houston. They carry any and all auto mngfr. parts. Some are OEM, others are aftermarket. Doesn't matter about the aftermarket for what you are wanting. Peterbuilt also has a door weather strip that might work. It's a little easier to handle and form. Whatever you decide, I'm sure it will look good. Watch out for those pre-made door seals with a groove in the middle of the outer edge. Dirt trap if you ask me. Just sayin'.....

Yes, I am the wife of a professional body man that has made his career working on semi trucks, trailers, Prevost, and Entertainers' buses. However, I am the accountant at the same place, thus, knowing the parts, where to buy them, and, thanks to my husband, know how to manufacturer a part from something else. A "girlie-girl", with a little know how, if you will.

Keep us posted on what you do and post pics! I'm sure you will do it right and it will look awesome! 

Texas


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## TexasLoneStar56 (Sep 27, 2014)

[url=https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?p=367091#p367091 said:


> marshman » 26 Sep 2014, 18:37[/url]"]Thanks... I'm searching high and low...
> 
> Already tried boneyards... An old seal is a real pain to remove intact enough to reuse.. They staple it every 2 inches with some super heavy duty staples to attach it at the factory..



Marshman,

Check your PM box for more info.


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## TexasLoneStar56 (Sep 29, 2014)

Marshman,

Peterbuilt door gaskets and hood gaskets are $$$. Never mind!! :? 

Sent you more info in your pm box about one on ebay.

Keith


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