# Aluminum Bass Tracker Renovation.



## Restrained (Oct 7, 2013)

I have been a lurker here and figured it was time to speak up. My name is Mike and the wife and I reside in Northeast Ohio. 

Years ago I owned a Bass Tracker and loved it dearly. Unfortunately life happened and I was forced to part with the boat because of a divorce. 

Recently I purchased a small 12' aluminum MirroCraft deep V hull. I was not happy with the handling of the V hull especially if I stood on the elevated fishing platform. I decided to move forward to a larger, wider, and more stable fishing platform so the search was on. 

The things I wanted most was a aluminum boat. Something that I could launch easily if I was alone. A modified V hull as was my 1st Tracker. 16 foot in overall length. I really liked the idea of stick steering from the front of the boat. And a large livewell. 

Several months after my search started I found a boat to my liking on Craigslist. The boat is a 1992 Bass Tracker PanFish 16 Special, equipped with a Evinrude Force oil ejected 40 HP outboard. 

The boat has some issues, soft flooring, worn out carpet, electrical issues, and in need of a general face-lift. My plans are to totally gut the boat and work from the hull up. 

I'm sure I'll ask more than a question or two and if you aren't already bored to death please stick with me. Sure it's going to be fun. (Wink)


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## DrNip (Oct 7, 2013)

Get some pics up when you get time.


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## Restrained (Oct 7, 2013)

What it looked like when I drug it home.


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## Restrained (Oct 7, 2013)

Two more before the start of the demolition.


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## Restrained (Oct 7, 2013)

Another


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## Restrained (Oct 7, 2013)

The boat at one time was a home for hungry mice. There were more than a few wires with little or no insulation and they built nests in the flotation foam.


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## Restrained (Oct 7, 2013)

Off come the seats and livewell and some wood


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## Restrained (Oct 7, 2013)

Here I have straightened the rub rail, the winch has already been replaced.


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## Restrained (Oct 7, 2013)

Yanking the engine controls


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## Restrained (Oct 7, 2013)

Some of the rotted wood. It is not my intention to replace the wood as I would rather use 3/16" thick aluminum sheet so this never happens again.


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## Restrained (Oct 7, 2013)

As I pulled the floor I ran into many more the the mouse hotels.YUK!
The foam must have been open cell as it was waterlogged and heavy. In their infinite wisdom Tracker for some unknown reason used steel screws. The best way I fount to deal with them was a air chisel.


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## Restrained (Oct 7, 2013)

Look at this mess, here you can see a mouse hotel.


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## Restrained (Oct 7, 2013)

Wonder what the record is for the most mice nests found in a boat? I might be the winner.


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## Restrained (Oct 7, 2013)

Anyone want any wet wood or foamboard?


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## Restrained (Oct 7, 2013)

First cleaning with a special chemical that we use to clean air conditioners.


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## Restrained (Oct 7, 2013)

After second application of cleaner followed by a good rinse


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## Restrained (Oct 7, 2013)

I sprayed a small spot on the lower portion of the boat to see how well it cleaned the crud off. See for yourself


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## Restrained (Oct 7, 2013)

Here yu can see the crap rolling off even before its rinsed. This all takes place in less than 5 minutes


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## Restrained (Oct 7, 2013)

Are we having fun yet? Well it's been a long day, been up since 3AM so I'm going to hit the rack. More to come.....


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## Ranchero50 (Oct 7, 2013)

Looks like a good start. The Panfish always was one of my favorite designs. Open floor with enough room to work and play. Sadly Tracker builds cheap production boats and sell them at a premium. At least you can tell where the screw heads are by the rust. 

Suggestions, go .100" max for you floor. You can probably get away with .062 if the frame span isn't over 16" or .80". 3/16" is way too heavy for the application.

For the foam I'd use the rigid panels and cut them to fit under the floor (as long as you have a lot more of it up high so the hull doesn't turn turtle it it sinks).


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## Restrained (Oct 8, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=331570#p331570 said:


> Ranchero50 » 07 Oct 2013, 22:33[/url]"]Looks like a good start. The Panfish always was one of my favorite designs. Open floor with enough room to work and play. Sadly Tracker builds cheap production boats and sell them at a premium. At least you can tell where the screw heads are by the rust.
> 
> Suggestions, go .100" max for you floor. You can probably get away with .062 if the frame span isn't over 16" or .80". 3/16" is way too heavy for the application.
> 
> For the foam I'd use the rigid panels and cut them to fit under the floor (as long as you have a lot more of it up high so the hull doesn't turn turtle it it sinks).



The floor supports are 13" on center. Figured 3/16" aluminum was way overkill but there's a good reason I chose it. I called a local metal supplier and each panel was over $200. I found a guy 10 minutes away that demolished a building and stripped out lots of aluminum floor panels. They are $25. each, and weigh but 22 pounds which is still way lighter than plywood wet or dry.  

I planned on a trip to Home Depot to get the Foamular boards. I'll put the thickest material under the flooring that will fit.

I'm thinking that it may be wise to put something like weatherstripping on the tops of each flor suppor spar to isolate the aluminum panels and possibly rattles or squeaks, what do you all think?

What type of screw would you recommend for the flooring? I have thought about pre-drilling and countersinking each screw hole but if I could find a ss screw with a small head that might work as well. One that was powder coated gray to match the new carpet would be even better.


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## Restrained (Oct 8, 2013)

By the way what's the recommended, easiest way to cut 3/16" aluminum? I'm sure some of you c
guys have cut this and know the tricks.

Here's a picture of the front bulkhead. The hole on the right was used for a radio that now in the trash can. Don't really know what the large hole n the left was for, maybe a glove/storage box?


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## Restrained (Oct 8, 2013)

I took the hatch that used to be on the top of the storage area (I'll call it a casting platform) and transferred it to the bulkhead. I'll build a box behind it so I can use it for my Plano tackle boxes. The hole on the left will be plugged.

The casting platform will have a solid top, most likely plywood. I'll hinge it to open for storage of PFDs, ropes, etc.


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## Restrained (Oct 8, 2013)

Check out this little piece of engineering. The splice was bare, no tape, and was for the trolling motor.It was tucked inside the front compartment.

The second picture shows more mouse damage to the wire that fed the trolling motor.

I fish a few lakes that require electric trolling motors only so the plan is for a deep cycle battery under each of the two seats with a Guest battery switch. A Minn Kota digital 3 bank on-board charger would be nice for both trolling batteries and the outboard cranking battery.


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## Restrained (Oct 8, 2013)

On the bow of the boat was a broken anchor winch rated at 18 pounds. Near as I could tell it was made or marketed by Minn Kota. In the process of cleaning up the boat I found a replacement gear that a former owner had purchased but never installed. I dis-assembled, cleaned, and re-assembled the winch and it now works as it should. The plastic cover is broke but I'll deal with that before the project is done.


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## Ranchero50 (Oct 8, 2013)

A worm gear circular saw like a Mag77 cuts nicest with a carbide blade but it's extremely loud. Just set the blade shallow and it'll do a nice job. If your saw has seen other odd duty (like cutting concrete pavers) you may want to put some tape on the bottom so it slides easier. Oil, safety glasses, ear plugs and patience. 

A Sawzall with a 12" 14-18 tpi blade will do straight cuts as long as you keep the saw angled low so most of the blade is in the cut.

$25 is a dang good reason to use 3/16"


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## Restrained (Oct 8, 2013)

You were right! I used my circular saw with a carbide tipped blade and lubed the cut line on the aluminum plate with WD-40. The saw cut through the 3/16 aluminum like a hot knife through butter. All I needed to do once finished with the cuts was to dress up the edges with the belt sander. If I hadn't done it myself I wouldn't have believed it possible.


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## Restrained (Oct 8, 2013)

Spent some time today stripping the carpet from the aluminum pieces that will be reused. Also test fitted a couple of sections of the new aluminum floor. Got up on the boat to test for flex and have to say I am really going to like not having a ply floor.


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## Bobsbaits (Oct 9, 2013)

What did you stip the carpet off with? Looks like it came out nice.


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## inlovewithsurfin (Oct 9, 2013)

what on earth did you use to clean the aluminum and where can i get some!!!??? boat is coming along nicely! mine could use a good cleaning!


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## Restrained (Oct 10, 2013)

I really didn't do anything special when I pulled the carpet off the aluminum. If you look at the aluminum panel on the left you can see some of the residual glue left behind. The panel on the right looks so clean because that's the opposite side that the carpet was.

The chemical I used to clean up the bottom of the boat was Acti-Brite.
https://www.herculesindustries.com/ProductSpecs/Coil%20Cleaner%20AB1.pdf

BTW Thanks to all that complimented.


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## Restrained (Oct 10, 2013)

I was a bit concerned about vibration and noise from the aluminum deck grating against the aluminum floor stringers so I used 1/8" self adhesive foam. I think it will keep things quieter.

Talked to the nice folks over at Jamestown Distributors abut the best fastener to use for a alum. floor and was told a alum. fastener would be better than stainless steel. So when the time comes I will most likely use aluminum pop-rivets. What are your guys thoughts on this?

Spent a few hours disconnecting all the various wires and cables to the 40 HP oil-injected Evinrude outboard. My intentions are to build a wood stand to put the motor on for the winter. I want to do some various service to the outboard including replacing the impeller. Gawd knows when this motor was last serviced but my guess is only when it didn't start. :roll:


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## Restrained (Oct 14, 2013)

I'm curious as to which battery the electronics should connect to. I'm talking nav lights, lowrance, livewell pump, and bilge? They were connected to the outboard battery not the trolling battery but I'm not sure this is acceptable. I am at a point where I can change if there is a need to.


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## Bobsbaits (Oct 14, 2013)

They should be connected to the outboard battery. Running the motor keeps this charged.


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## Ranchero50 (Oct 15, 2013)

Looks good. Your quieting foam will probably wander around over time. I'm going to just lay a 1/8" bead of silicone over the joints and let it set up before I finish installing my deck. I did the front a couple months ago and it worked out well.


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## Restrained (Oct 17, 2013)

Finally found some time to yank the now stripped hull and get it on jackstands. I wanted to strip the 20 years worth of crud off the bottom of the boat. I had to spay it 3 times with Acti-Brite before the crud liquified and was able to be flushed away. Here's a shot of the cleaned bottom.


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## Restrained (Oct 17, 2013)

Shifted my attention to the trailer. It's in pretty decent shape overall. The former owner just replaced all the bunks and winch. The fenders need stripped and repainted and there is a little touch up to do. All the lights need to be replaced as do the tires they are dry rotted and full of cracks.

I have heard that Kwick-Strip Aircraft Remover sold at WalMart removes powder coat so I'll be picking some up today. I'll let you know how that all works out.


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## Restrained (Oct 18, 2013)

Couldn't find Kwick-Strip Aircraft Remover so I settled for a brand that Home Depot carried. It said on the can that when brushed on the color of the gel is blue and when it turn white the paint is ready to be removed. Since this was powder coat and not paint I brushed on a second coat once the 1st coat turned white.

I was easily able to use a wire brush to knock off the loosened powder coat. I then power washed the parts to remove and chemical left behind. The fenders and trailer coupler were the only parts that I really needed to strip.


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## typed by ben (Oct 18, 2013)

god what a mess... took me a second to even figure out what the top picture was. looks like you put some smurfs in a blast furnace and then dropped the vat on the floor.

that stuff did a hell of a job though!


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## Restrained (Oct 25, 2013)

Turned my attention to the livewell.. The former owner told me that it never really worked right, Here's a picture of the thru-hull pump that was melted.

After exchanging email with the great folks at Flow-Rite I realized that the 3/4" 
flexible hose that Tracker ran to the livewell had dips in the line allowing airlock of the pump. I intend on running new piping in non-metallic conduit to keep it straight.

I purchased a complete system from Flow-Rite and will be installing it soon.


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## bassfisherjk58 (Oct 29, 2013)

Looks Great so far.Good Job!


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## Restrained (Nov 16, 2013)

Been a while since I have posted but there's lots going on. I completely stripped and blasted the trailer. Then primed and painted. Replaced all the wheel bearings and added bearing buddies. Have two new rims and tires on their way to me. All new LED lighting was added.


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## Restrained (Nov 28, 2013)

Here's a shot of the trailer being blasted


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## Restrained (Nov 28, 2013)

I decided to add a casting deck to the rear to house a different fuel tank, more batteries, the oil injection tank, and anything else needed in the rear of the boat. Here I'm fitting up the plywood.


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## Restrained (Nov 28, 2013)

This is a box I constructed to accommodate Plano tackle boxes. I got tired of tripping over a large tackle bag on the floor.


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## Restrained (Nov 28, 2013)

My plan is to take the original front and rear seat mounts bolt them together to make one unit that will accomodate 2 deep cycle marine batteries. The front seat will be mounted on this enclosure.


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## Restrained (Nov 28, 2013)

I cut down the original flotation that you can still see on the left and right size to accommodate 2 storage areas. The original waterlogged foam that was under the old floor was scrapped. 

The majority of wiring will be routed through the PVC that tracker originally put in place under the foam (in sides). I am adding conduit under the floor to house the new live-well lines and 4 gauge battery cables.

You can see how I'm using 2X4s to slightly elevate the floor. this allowed me to add a total of 3" of new closed cell foam under the flooring for flotation.


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## Restrained (Nov 28, 2013)

Here's a picture of the original tracker switch panel and one I had new Wire Marine make. Viking Panels is also making one for me that will hold a fuel gauge and several voltmeters to keep tabs on the batteries.


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## Restrained (Nov 28, 2013)

If this build doesn't interest anyone here I'm going to save my time and let the thread die.


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## Mojo (Nov 28, 2013)

Restrained,

You're doing a great job man.. keep posting. Your not getting a lot of reply's but that's just cause you seem to know what your doing and not really asking questions. Go take a look at my thread, I've posted lots but not a lot of reply's other than looks good and I like that's. 

Believe me someone out there is looking at what your doing and thinking that something you did is a good idea and is taking note even if they aren't commenting.

Good luck on your build man, people are watching.

Mojo


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## rscottp (Nov 28, 2013)

I am checking it out, keep on posting!


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## midnight_f150 (Nov 29, 2013)

Any updates?


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## bigwave (Nov 29, 2013)

Some of us just like watching, that is how I learn. Your doing a great job....Keep it up. =D>


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## DrNip (Nov 29, 2013)

Yesterday was also Thanksgiving. Lots of folks were busy. Your build is very clean. I will be doing a battery box like this on my 1248 under the front seat.


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## Bobsbaits (Nov 29, 2013)

I'm another one watching although I don't post much. I am already checking on getting a panel made and seeing where you got yours done and how it looks I will probably go that way.


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## lpotter (Feb 3, 2014)

We are here....keep up the good work.....


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## warefishin (Feb 4, 2014)

Hey man I am working on the same boat, How's it coming. I would love to see how you worked the storage on the sides. I had the same idea about the tacklebox storage in the front. Great minds think alike.


Here is mine, I am just finishing the demo and about to start work replacing the transom.


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## Country Dave (Feb 4, 2014)

_Looks great,

Its come a long way.............................. =D> _


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## long duck (Feb 16, 2014)

Keep posting we realy like your boat.


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## LouEZ22 (Feb 16, 2014)

Any Updates?


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## travjsoyer (Dec 15, 2022)

Restrained said:


> Off come the seats and livewell and some wood


How did you remove the livewell


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## travjsoyer (Dec 15, 2022)

Hiw did you remove livewell


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