# pressure treated wood



## shawnfish (May 30, 2011)

first,let me say that i love this site! its like having a 1,000 yrs of boat building experience at my finger tips. o.k. that being said, ive read on here where pressure treated wood is a no no when it comes in contact with aluminum. i used it on my boat for a deck and some flooring and im almost positive it does not touch any part of the hull,benches etc.. because of the carpeting. will the carpet protect it? if so for how long? its been completed for about a month and im planning on pulling it all back out this winter and replacing it with aluminum. i just need to know if it will be alright till then or am i gonna be a busy man today?


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## diabetik11 (May 30, 2011)

The new pressure treatment DOESNT corrode the aluminum, I just replaced my floors with 1/2" pressure treated plywood. Once again it WONT do anything to your aluminum.

Plus all the New TRACKER boats use pressure treated plywood.


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## shawnfish (May 30, 2011)

thats great but i need 5 more replys like yours to be positive. thanks.....


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (May 30, 2011)

There are many post on this subject do a search. IIRC The newest pressure treated wood claims to be less reactive to aluminum not that it is 100% safe.


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## shawnfish (May 30, 2011)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> There are many post on this subject do a search. IIRC The newest pressure treated wood claims to be less reactive to aluminum not that it is 100% safe.


THANKS....


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## Zum (May 30, 2011)

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=18221&hilit=pressure+treated+wood
I personally wouldn't use it,still seems to have some corrosive issues.(why take the chance?)
Might be okay if your planning on doing a swap out,only time will tell.
Time is the only way to tell,just like in medicines/pills.Sometimes they say they're okay,won't hurt you but in 10 years time theres a recall saying it could cause something.Just my view on things.


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## shawnfish (May 30, 2011)

Zum said:


> https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=18221&hilit=pressure+treated+wood
> I personally wouldn't use it,still seems to have some corrosive issues.(why take the chance?)
> Might be okay if your planning on doing a swap out,only time will tell.
> Time is the only way to tell,just like in medicines/pills.Sometimes they say they're okay,won't hurt you but in 10 years time theres a recall saying it could cause something.Just my view on things.


i agree 100% with you, i just came back in from removing it all. very disappointed but i was planning on redoing it with aluminum this winter,but for now i went and bought some 1/2 inch plywood for a deck wich i will treat myself(is thompsons water seal good?) and some 1 inch square stock for support wich just from holding them both will make a big difference in weight.now that i think about it there were a couple things i noticed when i was done that if id thought about it earlier i would have changed so now i can. by this winter when i do a FINAL job i should be able to get it right!!! lol!!! i will post pics tomorrow of 1st job and the start of 2nd and keep you guys updated as i move along.......


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## Alumacraft (May 30, 2011)

ALL THE NEW TRACKER BOATS HAVE PRESSURE TREATED WOOD =D> =D> =D> (somebody explain to me why they would use treated plywood if its just going to eat away at the $30K boat...)

why wooldn't you use the new treated wood?, it will last 20-30 years. have fun trying to protect your none treated wood and have fun replacing it every 5 years. thats all I have to say.... 

Tracker wouldn't put it in the aluminum boats if it will corrode it:!: :!: 

I guess it takes time for people to catch on that it wont eat your boat away??

I Used TREATED WOOD!!

end this topic.


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## shawnfish (May 31, 2011)

Alumacraft said:


> ALL THE NEW TRACKER BOATS HAVE PRESSURE TREATED WOOD =D> =D> =D> (somebody explain to me why they would use treated plywood if its just going to eat away at the $30K boat...)
> 
> why wooldn't you use the new treated wood?, it will last 20-30 years. have fun trying to protect your none treated wood and have fun replacing it every 5 years. thats all I have to say....
> 
> ...


im very happy for you! why dont you read the entire thread! if you do you will see that im gonna have lots of fun redoing it in a few months not in 5 years!! dont waste your time commenting if your not gonna read the whole post,oh and would not is not spelled wooldnt....


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## bassboy1 (May 31, 2011)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> There are many post on this subject do a search. IIRC The newest pressure treated wood claims to be less reactive to aluminum not that it is 100% safe.



Yep. There is a difference in "less reactive" and "not reactive" in my book. BIG difference.

Anyway, the copper is what makes the wood and the aluminum react. If there is copper in the wood, it could potentially be reactive (If the copper and aluminum never touch, no worries, but when/if the copper leaches out and reaches the aluminum, they will experience electrolysis). 

If your pressure treated wood has NO COPPER, then you should be fine (unless it has some other metal that aluminum doesn't get along with - I work with aluminum, and don't claim to know everything in modern pressure treated wood). If it does, don't ignore simple chemistry. You don't want copper with aluminum. The most fruitful research at this point would likely be learning what exactly is in pressure treated ply, and what year(s) the regulations changed in requiring certain things to be or not to be included in the treating.

Also, don't get your hopes up too much because Tracker, or G3 or something along those lines uses them. These companies (Tracker more so than some, as they generally have the lowest prices for an equivalent boat), is designing a boat to a certain price point, and while the end result is usually fairly nice, there are corners cut in construction, which to most, wouldn't really have an issue, but to the guy that uses his boat hard, and puts it away wet, might show up as a problem. I've had a few G3 "All Welded" hulls in recently, and in every one of them, there is pressure treated plywood. It is wrapped with a heavy plastic, so it doesn't actually make contact with the aluminum. 

Also, if I remember correctly, there was a member on here a year or two ago that had a brand new Lowe that developed corrosion holes in the transom within something like 9 months, likely due to the pressure treated ply in the transom (Lowe claimed to not know what happened, but refunded his money). Someone may want to go dig up that post.


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## Bhockins (May 31, 2011)

I'm redoing my transom now and I plan to use regular plywood and fiberglass it so it's waterproof. It's relatively cheap and will last a lifetime. Just a thought.


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## etindoll (Jun 1, 2011)

I just pulled this information off of Georgia Pacific website. " Aluminum should not be used in direct contact with ACQ-D or CA-C treated wood."


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## bassboy1 (Jun 1, 2011)

etindoll said:


> I just pulled this information off of Georgia Pacific website. " Aluminum should not be used in direct contact with ACQ-D or CA-C treated wood."



Appears that almost all pressure treated lumber has a 'C' in it. 

No way in the world that I would use it. It might work in a freshwater application, as these boats are generally trailer maidens, and not used hard at all, but put it in saltwater for a few weeks, and the trouble will likely become noticed.


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## shawnfish (Jun 1, 2011)

thanks for the research guys!! its not getting near my boat!!!!


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## HookedUp443 (Jun 1, 2011)

It's not getting near mine either. Simply NO NEED to risk it. [-X


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## shawnfish (Jun 1, 2011)

HookedUp443 said:


> It's not getting near mine either. Simply NO NEED to risk it. [-X


PREACH IT BROTHER!! =D>


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## Mojo^ (Jun 2, 2011)

I recommend that you do a little research and maybe send the manufacturer an email or two. If they use copper in any amounts in the process, stay away from it. It is the copper in pressure treated plywood that is the aluminum killer.


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## SVOMike86 (Jun 2, 2011)

Shawnfish- In answer to your question about sealing, you should either use a spar urethane, or a fiberglass resin to seal your decking. Thompson's is not sufficient for the long run, but if you are serious about switching to aluminum in a couple months you _should_ be ok. If you still need to buy the sealer, I would suggest getting Helmsman Spar Urethane (about $30-35) a gallon. I'm not sure how much the Thompson's costs, but if your plans change and you decide to stay with wood decking for a season or 2, you'll be good to go. I put 4 heavy coats on just my front deck (which is 6ft long) and still have 1/2 a gallon left, so 1 gallon _should_ be enough for an entire boat.


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## Mojo^ (Jun 2, 2011)

Fiberglass resign alone does little to enhance the durability of wood substrate. It will seal it but it will also be brittle and pron to cracking. It is the addition of fibers that does all the work. However, if you use an epoxy resign it will have superior strength and remain flexible. Check-out https://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html . It can also be use with fibers but works exceptionally well as a sealer for wood.


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## togaurd (Jun 17, 2011)

$0.02 I'm new to boating, but I do have 30+ years in construction. The previous generation of treated wood was great for general construction, but it couldn't touch aluminum. I would see a serious degradation of alum flashing that resulted in water intrusion on projects less than 10 years old. The new generation of treated wood a big pain because it cant touch engineered steel hangers and connectors. Everywhere it comes in contact with steel many county and city building codes require a membrane to be put between the treated member and the steel hanger/connector. Many contractors use an ice/water shield material that is sold as door and window flashing. Maybe this can be done in a boat application. Use the uncured butylene rubber flashing at points of contact. Not the perfect answer, but the life of the hull might be extended. 

Oh, by the way. The boat I purchased last year had the wood in the transom replaced about 6 years ago. When I took it off this winter I found that very little aluminum is left. Most of the transom has to be cut out and new welded back in.

That was a heck more than $0.02.
Sorry :roll:


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## Zum (Jun 17, 2011)

Sorry about your boat.
It is good for people to hear personnal experiences.
Glad you chimed in.


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## samiam81289 (Mar 24, 2014)

hey guys i have a 20 ft cobia and i just tore the old floor out and i cant really afford to fiberglass i got pressure treated wood how can i am carpeting over it how can i seal the wood without fiber guys 

ty guys a bunch in advance


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Mar 24, 2014)

If you haven't cut the pressure treated wood return it.


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## samiam81289 (Mar 24, 2014)

its already cut my friend used pressure treated and has had the boat 6 years strong is there anyway i can seal it though i really need suggestions here


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## juggernot (Mar 24, 2014)

Cobia is a fiberglass boat right?


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## thill (Mar 25, 2014)

You can use it, but you need to isolate it from the aluminum. 

I used PT ply on my transom, but I isolated it with a layer of glass mat and resin. Made is stiffer, too.

On the decks, it's even easier, depending on how many contact areas there are.

Not a big deal, but isolate it!


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## chrispy186 (Mar 25, 2014)

If the treated wood you got is made with Ecolife, you should be ok. It uses non metallic treatment. Here is what they say about the Ecolife treatment.

Fasteners and Aluminum Contact

Ecolife Stabilized Weather-Resistant Wood is no more corrosive to fasteners and metal fittings than untreated wood.
Ecolife can be used in direct contact with aluminum building products, even in constantly wet applications.
Use of fasteners and contact with aluminum products is permissible in compliance with applicable building codes and fastener manufacturer’s recommendations.

This is from https://treatedwood.com/products/ecolife/

Remember, treated wood has been a no no for so long that some people have it drilled in their head to never ever use it, no matter what. Just like someone who is brought up to vote a certain way no matter what, thats how they will vote. To each his own.


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## kfa4303 (Mar 25, 2014)

Left to it's own devices, PT lumber will ABSOLUTELY corrode your aluminum hull!!!!!!! Just because some manufacturers use it, doesn't mean it's right. It means they're bad/cheap manufacturers trying to save a buck. There's a reasons "marine grade plywood" doesn't use the same preservatives as normal PT. While you could seal the PT wood and hope for the best, why risk it? A responsible captain would never even take the chance. The "ahhh it'll be ok" approach to boating is the telltale sign of an amateur. Besides, do you really think there's internet conspiracy to get people to not use pt wood :/ ? 

It's simple, use 2 layers of non-pt, exterior grade plywood, laminate them together, then pre-drill your holes for the hardware and seal it with either 2-part epoxy or Spar Urethane. Finally, mount it to the hull using stainless steel hardware throughout dipped in a bit of 3M 5200 marine caulk just prior to installation. Voila! you're done. You can get everything you need, with the exception of the epoxy, from Lowes/HD for under $100. Always build you boat to MARINE specs not, cheap-o, inland, landlubber, freshwater, bass boat BS. Your life and the life of your guests may well depend upon it. Nothing on a boat is quick cheap and easy. (B.O.A.T. = Break Out Another Thousand) Do it right, or don't do it at all. Not get that boat ship shape!


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## T Man (Mar 25, 2014)

From what I have read and gotten from the manufacturer, the brand "yellawood" is acceptable to use in direct contact applications. It also doesn't require coated or galvanized fasteners


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## jigngrub (Mar 25, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=346100#p346100 said:


> samiam81289 » Yesterday, 16:14[/url]"]hey guys i have a 20 ft cobia and i just tore the old floor out and i cant really afford to fiberglass i got pressure treated wood how can i am carpeting over it how can i seal the wood without fiber guys
> 
> ty guys a bunch in advance



If you can't afford to rebuild your boat correctly, you probably can't afford to own a boat... but then there are the people that can't afford to rebuild their boat the right way, but when it comes time to fill it up with gas and oil to run it around on the water money is no object.

... and what's a guy with a fiberglass boat doing asking for advice on a tin boat site???

"Glassing" a deck in on a fiberglass boat is an important structural component of a fiberglass boat, a glassed in deck on a fiberglass boat is a diaphragm that holds the boat together like the solar plexus (diaphragm) in the human body. The glassed in deck holds the sides of the hull in place and keeps the relatively weak fiberglass from flexing too much. A glassed in deck on a fiberglass boat also seals off and waterproofs the below deck bilge area preventing water intrusion on the structural stringers and transom which are the backbone of the boat and transom.

If you can't afford to fix/repair your boat correctly you should sell it or haul it to the dump because you probably can't even afford gas and oil to run it.


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## T Man (Mar 25, 2014)

jigngrub said:


> [url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=346100#p346100 said:
> 
> 
> > samiam81289 » Yesterday, 16:14[/url]"]hey guys i have a 20 ft cobia and i just tore the old floor out and i cant really afford to fiberglass i got pressure treated wood how can i am carpeting over it how can i seal the wood without fiber guys
> ...



If you don't know what you're talking about, just don't post. The deck isn't glassed to the Hull, its part of the cap which is either screwed or riveted to the Hull under the rub rail. It waterproofs nothing, as a properly laid up glass job is waterproofed by the resin used.


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## jigngrub (Mar 25, 2014)

> *If you don't know what you're talking about, just don't post.* The deck isn't glassed to the Hull, its part of the cap which is either screwed or riveted to the Hull under the rub rail. It waterproofs nothing, as a properly laid up glass job is waterproofed by the resin used.



Practice what you preach!

If the deck isn't glassed to the hull or glassed to the cap (tub style), it's still part of the boats structure and the hull will still flex, flop, and flap if everything isn't tied in like it was designed to be... have you got a clue yet?



> *It waterproofs nothing, as a properly laid up glass job is waterproofed by the resin used.*



Typical polyester fiberglass layup resin is worthless with fiberglass cloth or matt, it's weak and brittle and will flake and crumbles to dust without reinforcement of fiberglass... maybe this is another clue for you? :roll: 

Just throwing a plywood deck down in a fiberglass boat without glassing it in to the hull or cap (it depends on the design) is a slovenly build that will cause major problems sooner and later. The deck needs to be glassed in for strength and waterproofing.


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## muskiemike12 (Mar 25, 2014)

Pretty harsh there jigngrub! So what are you saying if I can't afford to put gas in my truck? :roll:


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## jigngrub (Mar 25, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=346248#p346248 said:


> muskiemike12 » Today, 15:28[/url]"]Pretty harsh there jigngrub! So what are you saying if I can't afford to put gas in my truck? :roll:



You may want to consider riding a Moped instead. :roll: 

Saying you don't have enough money to fix your boat right but you still want to use it is like saying you don't have enough money to put brakes on your truck so you cut holes in the floorboard so you can stop it with your feet and still drive it.

To me the solution is simple, you don't use your boat until you save up enough money to fix it right. Take the money you'd be spending on gas and oil if you were using it and use that money to fix your boat.


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## muskiemike12 (Mar 26, 2014)

That's how Fred Flintstone did it!


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## T Man (Mar 28, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=346245#p346245 said:


> jigngrub » 25 Mar 2014, 13:44[/url]"]
> 
> Practice what you preach!
> 
> If the deck isn't glassed to the hull or glassed to the cap (tub style), it's still part of the boats structure and the hull will still flex, flop, and flap if everything isn't tied in like it was designed to be... have you got a clue yet?



There is a reason stringers are used to stiffen the hull and stress cracks dont transmit from the hull to the cap. The two are made to give some support to each other, but the cap will do nothing to reduce flex in the side of the hull. Twist? Yes, some, but none to reduce flex. 





[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=346245#p346245 said:


> jigngrub » 25 Mar 2014, 13:44[/url]"]
> 
> 
> Typical polyester fiberglass layup resin is worthless with fiberglass cloth or matt, it's weak and brittle and will flake and crumbles to dust without reinforcement of fiberglass... maybe this is another clue for you? :roll:



A) Find a layup schedule on a decent 'glass boat that uses poly resin. Epoxy is used for a reason. It is much stronger than poly but is not as UV resistant, hence the application of a gel coat.

B) Where did I say anything about using ONLY resin? The resin and mat work together. The ideal ratio is 50/50 mat/resin for optimal strength. On a wood cored hull the mat provides 0 waterproofing. The EPOXY resin is what waterproofs the wood, i.e. my reason for saying that a properly laid up glass job waterproofs itself and doesn't need some sort of covering for waterproofing. The mat is there to provide strength for the resin. Dont believe me? Look in a bilge, any bilge. There are only a few manufacturers that take the time to gel coat them, and most of the time they do it to cut down on protein absorption to reduce smells, not waterproof it. 

C) Stringers should be glassed to the hull, and when properly laid up, are completely sealed and waterproof on their own. They do not need a deck over them to keep them from rotting. Rotten stringers come from water intrusion due to failed fiberglass layups, either in the form of stress cracks, or god forbid, someone drilling into the stringer and not epoxy coating the hole they drilled.

The deck is NOT NEEDED as a rain cover to keep the rest of the hull from rotting.




[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=346245#p346245 said:


> jigngrub » 25 Mar 2014, 13:44[/url]"]
> 
> 
> > Just throwing a plywood deck down in a fiberglass boat without glassing it in to the hull or cap (it depends on the design) is a slovenly build that will cause major problems sooner and later.



This we can agree on.


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## turkyhorst (Jun 30, 2014)

Hello folks...brand new (noob...I love that term) and I too am undertaking a transom board replacement on an late 70's 18' Alumacraft jon boat. So I'm perfectly clear marine grade plywood is the BEST practice correct? Thanks in advance.


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