# What is the best way to seal rivets on a Jon boat?



## John Redcorn (Nov 19, 2010)

What is the best way to seal up the rivets, and keep them from leaking on a Jon boat? I have a couple rivets that leak a little bit on my Jon boat and i want to seal them back up, is there something i can use to just seal up all the rivets all at once. 

I'v seen the thread on here about steelflex, but i have also had other people tell me not to use it so i am unsure about it.
Thanks


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## crazymanme2 (Nov 20, 2010)

Most if not all leaking rivets can be sealed by rebucking them.


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## perchin (Nov 20, 2010)

rebuck them... Steelflex is a great product, but don't apply it untill after rebucking all the rivets. :wink:


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## Howard (Nov 20, 2010)

> i have also had other people tell me not to use it so i am unsure about it.



What was there reason not to use Steeflex?


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## John Redcorn (Nov 21, 2010)

They told me that it was a little pricey, kinda hard to apply, and began to flake off. But this is only what one of my friends told me, so they could have applied it wrong or something.

What do you mean rebuck them?


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## wis bang (Nov 21, 2010)

John Redcorn said:


> What do you mean rebuck them?



They are formed by pressure. It is possible to smack 'em w/ a hammer while holding something heavy against the other side to expand it and tighten it in the hole. I have a 40 oz. crosspien hammer that I would back the one side while striking the other side w/ my 25 oz ballpein.

Dad used to have a small section of RR rail and we would rivet mower [sickle bar] blades on it using a rivet set. The tool had a blind hole and a cup shape. you would put the hole over the shank of the rivet and smack the tool, this 'set' or 'bucked' the rivet fixing it in place thru the hole in the metal then you rotated the tool 180 and the cup would allow you to form the head. The rail made a good anvil.

The rivet is malleable so it can be struck [while backed up] and expanded in the hole.


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## perchin (Nov 21, 2010)

John Redcorn said:


> They told me that it was a little pricey, kinda hard to apply, and began to flake off. But this is only what one of my friends told me, so they could have applied it wrong or something.
> 
> What do you mean rebuck them?



Actually steelflex is cheaper than a gallon of bed liner junk... About $70. And yes it is not the most easy to apply, but its tougher than nails. Are you sure your Buddy installed steelflex, and not bedliner? I would put my steelflex up against anything else you can purchase... It would take an intentional month long grinding session to remove it.


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## John Redcorn (Nov 22, 2010)

perchin said:


> John Redcorn said:
> 
> 
> > They told me that it was a little pricey, kinda hard to apply, and began to flake off. But this is only what one of my friends told me, so they could have applied it wrong or something.
> ...



Im a poor college kid so spending $70 on anything is a big investment for me. Yea he definatley used steelflex, but for for all i know he could have applied it wrong or something.

The previous owner of the boat i just bought did use rhinoliner on certain spots on the inside of the boat, it looks real spotty and i wanna remove it and start over fresh. Im hoping there is a different way to remove it other than sanding the hell out of it?


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## John Redcorn (Nov 22, 2010)

perchin said:


> John Redcorn said:
> 
> 
> > They told me that it was a little pricey, kinda hard to apply, and began to flake off. But this is only what one of my friends told me, so they could have applied it wrong or something.
> ...



Perchin, could you tell me more about why you like steelflex. would it be easier than rebucking a bunch of rivets, where i can find it, how it is applied, and about how much it would cost for a 1236 jon? Thanks


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## Troutman3000 (Nov 22, 2010)

YOu have to rebuck the rivets or any hull stress will cause the rivet to move and crack the steel-flex. Ask me how I know. I will tell you from expirience if you are steelflexing a riveted boat that will see a lot of hull stress (flexing) its not a good idea. If you want to seal the boat for a high stress environment you should use gluv-it on the inside as it will seal the hull and will be flexible enough not to crack. JMO.


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## tripleup05 (Dec 13, 2010)

I filled my boat about half way up to check for leaks the other day, and the only place any water dripped out came from the port and starboard side of the boat where the aluminum on the sides of the boat is riveted to the aluminum that makes up the stern. The leaks were at the same place on each side of the boat...about half way up the curve. I couldn't tell which rivets were leaking exactly, so I plan on rebucking all of them in those areas before applying the steelflex.

So, all I need is a heavy chunk of metal to put behind the rivet, and a ball pein hammer to strike the rivet head with? I know this is a stupid question, but I strike the outside(round) head with the hammer and put the metal on the inside (smaller, flat) head, right?






The leaks are coming from somwhere within the circled area, on the sides of the boat right before the transom.


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## bassboy1 (Dec 13, 2010)

> I know this is a stupid question, but I strike the outside(round) head with the hammer and put the metal on the inside (smaller, flat) head, right?



Doesn't really matter for tightening, like you are. It will flatten the rounded head of the rivet though - no big deal aside from aesthetics. If that bothers you, spend some time grinding a little dimple in your bucking bar. Not worth it to me. If you thought you might do more of these, you could get a rivet set from Aircraft Spruce, and then strike it with a hammer, as opposed to using it in an air hammer, if you didn't have access to an air hammer/compressor. 

I know this goes against the general consensus of this forum, but I wouldn't put steelflex on an aluminum boat, with the _possible_ exception of one that is used in shallow stumpy water, and needs something to help it slide better. And, even then, I might be inclined to use a real thin UHMW plastic coating, as opposed to steelflex.

Just my 2 cents worth.


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## jspansel (Dec 22, 2010)

I used Gluvit and it is some great stuff. Still about $60 though. Also, it has no UV protector in it so if anywhere you use it, gets any sunlight, you need to paint over it. I was painting the inside of my boat anyways so I used Gluvit. It is flexible so it shouldnt stress crack.


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## Troutman3000 (Dec 22, 2010)

jspansel said:


> I used Gluvit and it is some great stuff. Still about $60 though. Also, it has no UV protector in it so if anywhere you use it, gets any sunlight, you need to paint over it. I was painting the inside of my boat anyways so I used Gluvit. It is flexible so it shouldnt stress crack.




Let me know how it turns out.


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## jspansel (Dec 22, 2010)

Troutman3000 said:


> jspansel said:
> 
> 
> > I used Gluvit and it is some great stuff. Still about $60 though. Also, it has no UV protector in it so if anywhere you use it, gets any sunlight, you need to paint over it. I was painting the inside of my boat anyways so I used Gluvit. It is flexible so it shouldnt stress crack.
> ...



Will do. Already done and painted over, just have not had a chance to get her back in the water yet.


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