# 9.5 hp evinrude sporttwin hard to pull



## allfordhouse (Aug 23, 2015)

I just got a 1972 9.5hp sportwin evinrude. Had no spark to one cylinder. I changed out both coils and isolators and now have spark to both cylinders but it became a lot harder to pull then before. I hear a noise coming from the lower unit that sounds like something isn't turning properly. Coming from just above the prop area. Could it have been something with me taking off and putting on the flywheel? The motor seem to turn over fine before I changed the coils.


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## Pappy (Aug 24, 2015)

You did not set your coil spacing. The coils are hitting the flywheel and scraping.
Pull your flywheel again and you will see where the coils have been dragging. 
The coils are mounted on "posts". On the outer edge of these posts you will see a machined vertical face. 
Line up the face of the coil laminations or mount surface with this vertical face and tighten down. 
You can also do a search. Tons of info and photos and drawings of what I am talking about.


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## allfordhouse (Aug 24, 2015)

Ok I'll take a look thanks.


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## cajuncook1 (Aug 26, 2015)

- There is a process for evaluating the motor. If you are willing to take guidance we can help you out to determine what is going on with your motor. 

* First thing is to check the compression yourself. Most auto places will loan out a compression tester for a deposit and money is refunding when you return it. Napa, Auto Zone, O'Reilys...etc.

*Here is a video to show you how you can test your compression.
*

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PyCw4SiuT2I

Please report back your finds on compression.

*
**Second phase of diagnostics is to evaluate the ignition. *



*
***Third phase of diagnostics is to evaluate the carburetor and fuel delivery.*




By putting the spark plug against the engine block is not adequate assessment of the health of the ignition system. You need to get a spark checker and gap it to at least 1/4 inch. The spark should be able to consistently jump the gap and be strong blue snapping spark.

*Here is a bunch of information that you can read and do the repairs yourself and know what is going on*.

*Here is some information that will help you evaluate your ignition system with the flywheel popped off.*


*Harmonic balance flywheel puller video*

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nz1st4XnsX4


Your going to need to inspect your point, condenser and coils. They are located under the flywheel. Hopefully all you need to do is clean and regap your points and you might be in business. Still check your coils and condensers and plug wires.






*Here are two link to show you how to test your coils and condensers.*

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KT8rk5QWgS0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6eSXYmENDY




*How to replace your coils, points and condenser.* Please take digital pictures as you go, so it will help you return everything back in the right order. Keep cheap zip lock bags available to put your parts in so you don't lose them. They are small.


Here is a diagram of a generic OMC (Johnson/Evinrudle/Gale) ignition assembly. You will have to remove the coil designated for the top cylinder and put the oil wicker in. It should be already be coated with a very light oil. (not grease). The purpose of the oil wicker is to lightly lubricate the outside riding surface of the cam so the point shoes do not prematurely wear. If you look at the points they have little shoes that ride along the cam. Please make sure the (breaker)points cam is on the correct side or the ignition will be out of timing. It should have the word [highlight]top[/highlight] machine written on the side facing up. 







FYI: You can only set(gap) one set of points at a time. Put the flywheel nut back on(turn with a wrench or ratchet clockwise) to allow you turn the crankshaft. *(Please remove both spark plugs to make it easier to turn the crankshaft and prevent accidental starting) *

You gap the point to 0.020 when the point shoes is at the top(high point of the cam). It should have a mark along with the word top. Then you will turn clockwise to the next set of point 180 degrees and set those points the same way. You will notice that the point of the previous set will be closed and when you come around again they will open up. *** When they are open no current is allow through. This is how you set your timing with the points.*** 

When you go to set the point's gap. Very gently snug the anchor screw, then adjust the gap with adjusting screw and the feeler gauge until the feeler gauge is sliding through with slight resistance only. Then tighten the anchor screw. Repeat procedure with second set of points. Please make sure your hands are clean and the feeler gauge is clean, because oil on the points can foul them up and create resistance....poor or no no spark. ALways use a spark check to evaluate spark. It should jump minimum 1/4 inch. Blue sharp snappy spark.

Here is a picture of a spark check...Cheap $6







Here is a picture of how to tell which wire is going to the correct cylinder. Thanks to Garry for providing the picture on other post.








If your using the existing wires then cut about 1/4 inch of end going the coil, so you have clean un-oxidized copper contacting the spiking in the coil. Twist the end of the spark plug wire onto the coil spike. If you have replaced the wires, make sure they are 7mm copper metal core and not the automobile stuff.

***** Please make sure two things*****

1.) Make sure all the wires are tucked away under the flywheel and not rubbing up against the cam or crank, because with will eventually get damage and create a short, then no spark!! 

2.) Make sure the coil heels (ends) are evenly lined up with the mounting boss.

Here are some pictures. (Compliments of JBJennings..nice fella)











Lining up the coil heel with the mounting boss prevent damage of the coils and the flywheel magnet, prevent rubbing as the flywheel turns.

[highlight]*** Make sure the throttle is advanced to that start position***[/highlight]


Here is another picture that Garry (thanks Garry!!) supplied on another post with some modification.







Both diagrams, should answer your questions.




Here is some you tube videos that can help you diagnosis and properly setting your ignition and clean set your carburetor


Here a bunch of videos that can help you along. They are long and detail, but I purposely made them that way, so someone new to motors would feel comfortable. So, I apologize if they are boring. I originally made those videos to help a guy who had little mechanic knowledge.

*Here is a link on how to remove a flywheel.*

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nz1st4XnsX4


*Here is a bunch of links to evaluate and repair your ignition*

If your looking for a help cleaning your points and testing your ignition, then here are some YouTube videos that can help.

Not professional videos, but they can help guide you through ignition diagnostics and repair. The motor in the video is a 1968 Johnson 6hp.

Hopefully will give you a visual and help you some.

Evinrude Gale and Johnson ignition video 1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTN8Ag_aj-8

Evinrude Gale and Johnson ignition video 2

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7A6d8me0Gw

Evinrude Gale and Johnson ignition video 3

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAlT32NnTJ0

Evinrude Gale and Johnson ignition video 4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=re6FgcB_Yok

Evinrude Gale and Johnson ignition video 5

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ClGt6xHnb94

Evinrude Gale and Johnson ignition video 6

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=taaSzp1Ev-0

Evinrude Gale and Johnson ignition video 7

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p7w0xW48YCU

*
Here is a bunch of links to help you with your carburetor.*

Here are some videos on how to clean and apply a carburetor kit for an OMC high speed fix jet carburetor. Displayed motors are 1968 Johnson 6hp and 1964 Evinrude 18hp outboards. The videos are very long and over detailed, but I want to help those who are new/novices to motor repair. Again, I am no expert or certified marine mechanic, but I am offering video to help.


OMC fix jet carburetors part 1 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7MmDOaOQyQg

OMC fix jet carburetors part 2 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PuByx8J-EfY

OMC fix jet carburetors part 3 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FpivbGEv0wM

OMC fix jet carburetors part 4 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-aWICvsQZQ8

OMC fix jet carburetors part 5 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JqB6PLqeTI4

OMC fix jet carburetors part 6 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HS5J_AxJrAY

OMC fix jet carburetors part 7 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iq_2RfWjQ28

OMC fix jet carburetors part 8 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-lXIVBX_UF4

OMC fix jet carburetors part 9 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-nA_4YmNgt8

OMC fix jet carburetors part 10 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=94lcU7y2P9Y


*Almost forgot to post an accessory video regarding a timing fixture. You can certain set the points with a feeler gauge as shown in the previous videos, but I just wanted to add this to the list*.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eNK2TEeQQv0



*Carburetor Adjustment for idle/low speed needle. * Your carburetor has a high speed fix jet, so no adjustment. It just needs to stay clean.

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently(turn in clockwise), then open 1-1/2 turns(turn out counter clockwise). Do not tighten or force the slow idle needle shut or it may damage the needle.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in (clockwise). Wait a few seconds (10 to 15 sec) for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in(clockwise), the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again (turn your throttle slightly slower) to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out(turn out counter clockwise) the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.


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## allfordhouse (Aug 26, 2015)

I will check compression but the last post fixed everything motor runs great and starts with two or one pulls everytime.


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## Captain Ahab (Aug 26, 2015)

This is great stuff


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## cajuncook1 (Aug 26, 2015)

allfordhouse said:


> I will check compression but the last post fixed everything motor runs great and starts with two or one pulls everytime.




If the motor is running fine, then there is no reason to fiddle with it. Pappys advice was dead on and I was just supplying a visual to help, but I accidentally copy and pasted the whole thing.

Was trying to give you a visual of the coil and coil mounting bosses line up.

Cheers,

Cajun


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## allfordhouse (Aug 26, 2015)

Oh gotcha. Thanks for the help.


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