# Wards sea king aluminum boat



## uncndl1 (Jan 27, 2016)

I inherited a Wards sea king aluminum boat (14 foot) that needs all the wood replaced (transom & seats) which I've begun to do.


I've begun cleaning up the aluminum.


And here is a test fit of the new transom.



I'll post a picture of the boat before starting soon (it's on another computer tucked away somewhere)
It's too cold out to finish the transom, so I've started on the three bench seats made of plywood (that were once covered with vinyl).
The foam inside the aluminum enclosures looks fine, but while I have them apart, should I replace the foam as discussed elsewhere?
I appreciate all your comments.
This is not a full boat project, so I hope this is the right section to post in.
Best regards,
Kris


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## fool4fish1226 (Jan 27, 2016)

:WELCOME: Thanks for posting we love pics :beer:


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Jan 27, 2016)

If the foam is the white bead type (open cell) I'd replace it with the blue or pink (closed cell) foam insulating panels. The transom knees have a very StarCraft look to them, StarCraft made boat for Wards.


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## uncndl1 (Jan 27, 2016)

Appreciate the transom knees pointing to Starcraft being the possible builder. 
I've read through so many threads and pictures, but have yet to find those transom knees in 3's. 
Yes, the foam probably is open as it's original and little beads do come off from time to time. 
I'll read through as many threads on the closed foam available and look into swapping out the original foam for new & improved.
Best regards.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Jan 27, 2016)

uncndl1 said:


> Appreciate the transom knees pointing to Starcraft being the possible builder.
> I've read through so many threads and pictures, but have yet to find those transom knees in 3's.
> Yes, the foam probably is open as it's original and little beads do come off from time to time.
> I'll read through as many threads on the closed foam available and look into swapping out the original foam for new & improved.
> Best regards.


Up until the late 60's early 70's StarCraft's had 3 knee braces.


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## uncndl1 (Jan 27, 2016)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> If the foam is the white bead type (open cell) I'd replace it with the blue or pink (closed cell) foam insulating panels. The transom knees have a very StarCraft look to them, StarCraft made boat for Wards.


I'm getting 3/4 inch exterior plywood to replace the 3 bench seats. 
The rear seat is the worse, lot's of wood rot:








Here's a block of foam underneath the bench seat:


Here's what the wood seat looks like underneath:


I'll have a look at the pink and blue foam sheets available while getting the plywood.
Thank you again for all your comments.


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## uncndl1 (Jan 28, 2016)

I found these 2 inch 4 x 8 ft. sheets at Lowes:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Corning-FOAMULAR-250-2-in-x-48-in-x-8-ft-R-10-Scored-Squared-Edge-Insulation-Sheathing-52DD/202085962

Will this suffice to replace the styrofoam blocks?
Should I glue the pieces together?

Any advice greatly appreciated. Most of what I've found on utube videos is the two part foam mixture, but nothing for my application of the chamber underneath the three bench seats.

I did find these EPS flotation blocks from this site, and want to check further into that route:
https://univfoam.com/floatation

Best regards


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Jan 28, 2016)

The home depot foam is what I've used. No real need to glue it together as long as it's trapped inside the bench seats.


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## uncndl1 (Feb 2, 2016)

Okay, wood cut to match seats and transom.
I've been told and also read to use either Spar Varnish or oil based porch and patio paint. Anyone tried either and have input on what worked for them? 
Best regards, 

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Feb 2, 2016)

There is a formula of Spar urethane, boiled linseed oil and mineral spirts that's said to work very well.
I myself have used high quality exterior flat latex paint on the plywood floor of my duck hunting boat. On my StarCraft runabout I used spar varnish to seal the plywood and then Rustoleum for the top color coat. 
For the transom of my runabout I will probably try the Spar Urethane, Boiled Linseed oil and Mineral Spirts mix, all I will need to buy is the Boiled linseed oil.


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## uncndl1 (Feb 2, 2016)

Thank you for your input!
I will look for the Spar Varnish with an internet search. Home depot did not stock it while there this morning, but maybe it can be ordered.
Here's one recipe I found: https://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/make-your-own-oil-varnish-blend/
I'll look around some more before deciding.
Thanks


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Feb 2, 2016)

uncndl1 said:


> Thank you for your input!
> I will look for the Spar Varnish with an internet search. Home depot did not stock it while there this morning, but maybe it can be ordered.
> Here's one recipe I found: https://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/make-your-own-oil-varnish-blend/
> I'll look around some more before deciding.
> Thanks


PM sent.


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## uncndl1 (Feb 3, 2016)

Since I'm just copying the wood bench seats, I decided to order new stainless truss head bolts to hold the wood down onto the top of the flotation chambers. I found this site and the prices seemed good to me, especially compared to the hardware store nearby: 
https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Machine-Screws-s/664.htm
The spar varnish is also coming in the mail, and then I can get started finishing up the bench seats and transom. 
I might try the recipe passed on to me by 
lckstckn2smknbrls in the above threads. I found the thread mentioned, but then lost it again.
From my notes, I think this is the recipe: 
Transom Project & Notes
Simple to mix up and goes like this: 
1 part Boiled linseed oil
1 part spar urethane 
2 parts mineral spirits. 
It is applied very liberally, until it starts to pool and extra heavy on all edges and holes. 
Then it is allowed to cure for 48 hrs., 72 hrs. is better. 
I'll post more pictures once i get further along.


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## uncndl1 (Feb 6, 2016)

I realize that most people are not re-foaming their bench seats but...I did. First off, make sure you have a good temperature and wear disposable gloves. I used the 2 part foam from us composites found here:
https://www.uscomposites.com/index.html
I read quite a bit of the notes people had posted here, and elsewhere. Temperature is very important. As this is a winter project, the company suggested warming the two part solutions in a bucket with warm water. I did NOT do this, and your results may vary. I found through reading that 0.5 cubic feet per pound would be achieved by adding equal parts of part A and part B, i.e. 16 ounces (1pint) each of A + B equals a foamed volume of 1 cubic feet. Remember that one pint = 473 ml. My seat boxes ( 2 out of the three) measure 7 x 10 x 36 inches. Multiply this together equals 2520 cubic inches, divided by the conversion factor of 1728 equals 1.5 cubic feet. 
I warmed the basement apartment, and made a template/of the aluminum boxes with some luan for the two ends and the open area under the bench seat(s). Each of the two rear and middle seat areas were foamed first. I drilled out the brackets holding the wood bench seats onto the aluminum housing holding the foam. I calculaed that I would, ideally need 24 ounces of each part A and part B mixed together to make my floatation under the bench seats. I have two heaters running, and did not heat the two cans in hot water. I took 30 ml. of each part A and part B, mixed together and poured to make the two larger bench seat flotation systems. I started with 12 ounces of each, mixed well and found that almost 1/2 of the under seat area filled with foam.. It actually took closer to 32 ounces of each solution to fill each area under the wood seats. Your results will obviously be dependent on the temperature and how you mix things.


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## uncndl1 (Feb 7, 2016)

Pictures will follow shortly of the floatation chambers, seats, and transom...I cleaned up the aluminum floatation boxes under the wood seats with a wire brush and some sandpaper. Cleaned everything with Mineral Spirits and a rag before painting. It's cold outside, so used the basement with a heater running, just like for the foam project. Tractor supply had the Self Etching Primer. 2 cans was enough to coat the three floatation chambers. I'm going to let them dry overnight with the heater running, and will take pictures tomorrow. I'm going to just roll some Rustoleum paint on tomorrow after work, and will update with pictures then. Have not decided on the colour yet, but will probably be whatever is on sale at WalMart or TractorSupply. Might go with the gallon can for less than $30. I did find these links that have some good read for the Transom Cap which I'm going to fabricate after installing the new wood transom:

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/owners-groups-by-manufacturer/s/starcraft-boats/9944969-looking-for-a-source-for-the-thin-c-channel-aluminum-transom-cap

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-repair-and-restoration/boat-restoration-building-and-hull-repair/605109-1978-sea-nymph-ss160-resto/page5


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## uncndl1 (Feb 10, 2016)

I have a question on drilling the seat holes for the new hardware holding the wood to the float chamber brackets.
The bolts came out (6 each per seat) very tight, meaning once the nut was removed, the slotted screw/bolt had to be threaded out with a flat head screwdriver. My question is, since I'm basically copying what is/was there, should I drill the holes out tight in the new plywood seats, or should I oversize the drilled holes and use sealant on them as mentioned elsewhere? Previously ones last 46 years, but obviously would like to prevent water damage into the new wood.
Best regards, Kris


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Feb 10, 2016)

If you keep your boat in the garage the seat wood is the least likely to have water damage. You could drill slightly oversized holes then when your sealing the wood coat the bottom and sides then before you flip the wood put a piece of masking tape over the holes, then put a straw into what ever your using to seal the wood put your thumb over the straw and fill the bolt holes. Let it soak into the wood as you coat that side of the wood. Then stick the straw into the hole to remove the excess sealer. After awhile poke a hole in the tape and let the remaining sealer drain. You might have to do this a few times and then pass the drill bit through the hole for the proper size but it will seal the wood in the hole.


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## uncndl1 (Feb 11, 2016)

Here's a good review article on sealants used in boating:
https://www.boatus.com/magazine/2013/April/how-to-pick-the-right-sealant.asp
For the new bolts holding down the wooden seats to the flotation seats, I'm considering either the 3M4200, or butyl tape.
The above article references using butyl tape for above deck applications, and the link to purchase has some great pictures and information:
https://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
What have other people used when doing their wooden seats?
Here are the old and new floatation chambers...




Just need to get some warmer weather to clean up the transom and install the new wood.
Cheers


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## uncndl1 (Feb 16, 2016)

I'm trying to finish up putting this baby back together, despite it being so cold here in the north country. The new transom wood has been glued together, and I'm getting ready to water proof it next week. I have a question for anyone that might have insight and knowledge to the transom thickness and angle across the top.
What I'm referring to, is because the 0.080 gauge aluminum transom is slightly angled, when I attach the new wood I've fashioned, there will be a slight rise from front to back. I'm wondering if I should cut off this angle and make it somewhat "square or level" with how the boat will be in the water? Since the pieces I removed disintegrated, and I only had half of a pattern to work with, I can not appreciate whether there is an angle across the top. I also want the transom caps right and left with handles to fit properly as the holes for the hardware are shallow from top to bottom of the caps. Hopefully this makes sense, or I can re-explain myself if necessary.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Feb 16, 2016)

The only place I angled the top of my transom was at the top corners.


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## uncndl1 (Feb 17, 2016)

Thank you for your reply. I know there are not many out there making a new transom for a 46 year old boat. I'm going on a business trip next week to San Diego and Long Beach. I'll stroll some boat yards and shops and try to get a feel for what was done back then. I'm inclined to take off some of the top of my new transom to flatten it from front to back, but will wait until I get back from the trip. I did find this posting on a similar boat that looks like mine here:
https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?t=38239
Best regards to all.


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## uncndl1 (Mar 4, 2016)

Thank you again for all the great advice on the new wood going back into this old aluminum boat. My new transom is ready to drill next weekend. I settled on sealing the edges of the plywood transom with this product:
https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=97636&engine=adwords!6456&keyword=cpeskw&gclid=CjwKEAiAgeW2BRDDtKaTne77ghgSJACq2U4bjfPhRskDZPy7FbEWot5ogK9WvByNQk0kpbHH-zDkYxoCqP3w_wcB
I'm not sure if I'm going to "thin it out" after mixing the two part mixture. Depending on how far a quart goes, I might also seal up the new seats as well. I'll post some more pictures then during re-assembly and the final product. Once I drill the new holes into the new transom, I'll remove it once again and go into the warm and dry shop for some tweaks. I'm going to re-drill the holes in the wood slightly larger, and then seal them with the mixture above. I'll wait another week or two for that to cure up proper before putting on the final coat of varnish and/or paint/primer. I have not decided yet whether to paint it up or just put several layers of spar varnish on it.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Mar 5, 2016)

Looks like it's getting good reviews.
I just mixed up a batch of old times sealer for my transom and some plywood seat parts.


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## uncndl1 (Mar 15, 2016)

Now that it's warmed up, I was able to do another test fit of the wood transom, and drill holes.
I need to clean up the aluminum and patch 3 holes that are 1/4 inch, along with several smaller screw holes that held the cap on that are corroded. I've done a search of epoxy patching, and other methods, and am leaning towards and easy mix epoxy patch material of 1:1 . Any advice on products? I found this and wondering if any one has used it?
https://www.pcepoxy.com/our-products/paste-epoxies/pc-7.php
here is a video of how to use it. I'm interested in what others have used to repair holes:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mPDC7pX3AqI
I did some more research last night, and decided on PC-11 instead of the PC-7:
https://www.pcepoxy.com/our-products/paste-epoxies/pc-11.php
I'll let you know how the hole patching goes...
Best regards..


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## uncndl1 (Mar 17, 2016)

I can't work on the transom until next weekend, so I started on the two side corner caps. They are very corroded underneath side, and I cleaned them up with scotch brite pad and CLR, but it needs something more before priming (at least the underside). It's stained with corrosion and from contact with the old transom. Here's a few pictures and any advice would be happy to have too.


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## uncndl1 (Mar 25, 2016)

I'm making slow progress, but the wooden transom has been sealed along with the seats, and it is curing in the basement.
My next challenge, and why I'm asking for advice is that the aluminum on the inside is very pitted around the holes that the bolts go through, as well as the holes I want to patch. All along the top edge there are small holes that the tiny screws held the transom cap on, and it needs to be sealed up with epoxy. I also have several holes that also need to be sealed up (not sure what they were for but don't need them).
I cleaned the area up real good with a wire brush, and have a heater in the boat pointed to the transom. My question is should I spray the self-etching primer first all over the aluminum BEFORE sealing the holes I want to plug? Or should I spray the primer on AFTER patching the holes with Epoxy?


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## catfishjohn (Mar 29, 2016)

nice, made me smile,,, I just reinforced my transom last weekend on my 12' sea =D> king I bought with my paper route money in 1963 at the monkey wards store in Detroit. it took me three more years to save up enough for a 7 1/2 hp sea king outboard. still have it, but now run a 5 hp merc 4 stroke.

I also mounted one of those nice folding plastic swivel seats, and two rod holders on her last weekend.

I'm retiring the end of april , and that old boat and I are gonna put a whoopin on some cat fish, crappy, and bluegill,,,with a few wally eyes added in.
think I originaly paid $59.95 or something for that boat. 
it cuahgt more then a few frog leg dinners, crawfish boils, and can't begin to number the bluegill and crappy it's brought home. duck hunting,,,muskrat trapping,,,it's been my buddy for a long, long time

oh, mines a flat bottom


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## uncndl1 (Mar 31, 2016)

Regarding the pitting around the 10 holes in the aluminum that the wood is bolted to.
I went ahead and patched it with PC-11 Epoxy, and then primed it for paint. Next time I post it will be of the boat ready to hit the water.


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## Beerman (Apr 1, 2016)

So yours is a 70? I had no idea but mine looks the same. I used plastic deck boards for new seats, reinforced midspan with 1 x 1 aluminum angle. Before I put it in our 4 acre lake for the summer I plan on building a box in the bow for life jackets, and add some cup holders etc.


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## uncndl1 (Apr 2, 2016)

Cool seat mod! Did you seal the center of each seat to prevent water from going down the Crack to the foam?
Your bow storage project sounds great, keep us posted.
I'm hoping to put mine all back together at the end of April

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## uncndl1 (May 16, 2016)

I finished putting the new seats onto the stock flotation chambers using 5/32 x 3/16 aluminum rivets with the old brackets.
I will have to resize the pictures once I get home from work and will post one then. 
I also re-registered the boat and trailer for NY (we just finished moving from RI). 
I have to remove the old numbers and registration decals.
Started reading and looks like I'll start with a hair dryer, and if I need a heat gun will try to borrow one. 
For the adhesive I've found in my reading such things as: mineral spirits, acetone, lighter fluid, goo off, goo gone, wd-40, 3m adhesive remover, sticker off, and even easy off oven cleaner. It looks like the way to go is to mask off the area around where the numbers and stickers are, before using whatever.
Any first hand experience greatly appreciated on how you cleaned the aluminum off after getting things removed greatly appreciated.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (May 16, 2016)

We used Zep chemicals "Big Orange" to remove the adhesive then denatured alcohol to clean off the Big orange.


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## uncndl1 (May 16, 2016)

Thanks for the update. I'll give the Zep a try after heat.
I do have some de-natured alcohol to try after all of that.

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## uncndl1 (May 16, 2016)

The updated seats are in place, waiting for new SS hardware


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## uncndl1 (Jul 5, 2016)

I finished what set out to do when I started my thread. I'll post a few pictures and call it a day.
It's obvious that the next project next winter will be to flip the boat and re-finish the bottom.
I also want to thank everyone who either have a thread/build of their own or added their 2cents when asked.
I appreciate it very much.


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## PBRMINER (Jul 7, 2016)

Looks GREAT


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