# My 1985 PolarKraft project (HELP, I BROKE my boat! page 13)



## dixie_boysles

I am new to the forum. My name is Scott; I have a 1985 14' Polar Kraft Aluminum Jon boat. I bought this boat and trailer combo for $600. It have title for both, so it was a great deal! The trailer is a 1973 Cox Breakaway trailer that is in excellent shape. I had to cut on the tongue and bend it back as someone had jackknifed it at some point in its life. The boat is in great shape. It is not the prettiest thing right now as whoever tried to spraypaint it last sucked. Also, at some point a hole developed in the front of the boat and someone tried to weld it with wrond welder, so there is a huge weld puddle that i need to grind off and have welded back right (any welders near Mt Airy, NC). I need to paint the boat bad and have decided on Parker Coating Duck Boat Paint in Hunter Green from Cabelas. The carpet will probably be tan or something (havent quite decided that yet.) I guess i need to sand on the paint first. The company siad if I had existing paint, i could just asnd that to roughen up and spray/roll/brush it on. Im going to have a friend of mine spray it on for me at his body shop.







so far ive:

Trailer:
-Replaced the ugly running boards on trailer
-fixed saftey chains
-fixed trailer lights
-rewired whole trailer
-fixed bent tongue

Boat:
-pressurewashed boat
-Grinded and drill holes smooth (shards of metal that stick up when you drill into metal)
-Installed my fishfinder on back bench (will eventally go on the front when i get boat done)

Mods planned:

-Sand and paint both trailer and boat same color
-fix hub seal of passenger side wheel on trailer
-Install carpeted floors and sides in boat
-install cusioned swivel seats in boat
-build casting deck on the front with pedestal seat
-trade my 50 lbs thrust manual trolling motor for a foot controlled unit
eventually find gas motor as well

Pics:


























Here is my Papa welding on the trailer for me:






My truck and my boat:


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## Brine

Welcome to the site.

If you're sanding down to bare aluminum, you'll want to use a Self Etching Primer which can be found at Auto Parts Stores, Walmart, etc.....


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## Rat

What Brine said, use Zinc Chromate Primer if going all the way down to bare Alu. If you are just roughing up the factory paint then you just need to use the primer the top side paint manufacturer recommends, whatever that is. Match your primer to your paint; if you are using a light color paint use light color primer and visa versa. Also get the primer for the right temperature, some (most) primers have temperature ratings for application.


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## dixie_boysles

i will be pulling it in my buddy's basement today to start the restore process. 

on today's list:

-take boat off trailer and place on saw horses
-Grind any rough areas on boat
-get dimensions of boat to layout on autocad.


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## dyeguy1212

Welcome.. I look forward to seeing your progress


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## dixie_boysles

dyeguy1212 said:


> Welcome.. I look forward to seeing your progress



speaking of progress, I just got off the phone with a friend, he has found a guy to fix that ugly welded spot on my boat for free! We're going to weld of the JB weld that was placed on top, then sand the surrounding area and have it ready for the huy to weld on tomorrow!


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## Truckmechanic

Welcome aboard. Your trailer doesn't look too bad. Looking forward to seeing your mods.


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## dyeguy1212

dixie_boysles said:


> dyeguy1212 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Welcome.. I look forward to seeing your progress
> 
> 
> 
> 
> speaking of progress, I just got off the phone with a friend, he has found a guy to fix that ugly welded spot on my boat for free! We're going to weld of the JB weld that was placed on top, then sand the surrounding area and have it ready for the huy to weld on tomorrow!
Click to expand...



Can't beat that price


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## dearl

Welcome, looking forward to some more pics!


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## albright1695

Hey dixieboysles! Cant wait to see your progress on your boat. Better hurry though those smallmouth will be biting before too long! albright1695-fellow tinboats.net and ncangler.com member


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## MeanMouth

Welcome, nice looking setup! Keep us updated...and don't forget the pics as you go!


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## dixie_boysles

ok, got the spot grinded on and paint removed around it for welding today! There is also a lip on the front of the boat that was tore up so we cut that off and we're going to put a piece of aluminm angle there. We also removed two anchor tie downs because im going with new ones!

My buddy doing some grinding:






Removing tiedowns:






The piece of metal that is on also got removed. It was messed up. Its getting a piece of aluminum angle put in its place. Im just going to pop rivet that in though. 

The spot in floor gining me so much trouble












It gets an aluminum plate welded to it today to strengen it as well as seat that area off.

then maybe i can start on some sanding and priming! Also, as far as little screw wholes and stuff, would it be ok to use an marine eposy and fill them with it, then when it dries and hardens, just sand it down even with boat? help please. i want a nice finish on the boat when its done. Also, where is a good place to get the aluminum oxide primer for the boat; is it ok if I use that but dont remove all paint down to bare metal? I dont want to remove all the paint, but there are bare betal spots, what would be best primer for this application...on the cheap?


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## russ010

as far as paint goes... I would just use any self etching primer - it doesn't have to be sanded all the way down to the bare aluminum to work... just get rid of all the bad paint.

I used zinc chromate as my primer, but I've seen a lot of guys (and I did on my current boat) use regular spray can etching primer. I got mine at Lowe's... and the paint I'm using is the Krylon Camo paint in tan like you get at walmart... it actually looks pretty good and I've decided to paint my whole boat with that stuff.


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## dixie_boysles

russ010 said:


> as far as paint goes... I would just use any self etching primer - it doesn't have to be sanded all the way down to the bare aluminum to work... just get rid of all the bad paint.
> 
> I used zinc chromate as my primer, but I've seen a lot of guys (and I did on my current boat) use regular spray can etching primer. I got mine at Lowe's... and the paint I'm using is the Krylon Camo paint in tan like you get at walmart... it actually looks pretty good and I've decided to paint my whole boat with that stuff.



Sounds good! I guess ill pick up a few cans (how many cans you think it will take?). Now what about the small holes where things have been mounted before? Can i use marine epoxy or regular epoxy to fill them in and then sand down?

also, what grit sandpaper should i use? I was told 150, but im not too sure.


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## adodger69

I just got a 1970 14' polar kraft and trailer,so I can't wait to see
what you do on it cause I figure what works on yours will work
on mine!
adodger69


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## dixie_boysles

adodger69 said:


> I just got a 1970 14' polar kraft and trailer,so I can't wait to see
> what you do on it cause I figure what works on yours will work
> on mine!
> adodger69


Good deal! My plans are to use aluminum framing to build front deck support back to second support rib. Then I will remove middle bench for open floor plan. Then on the back, I plan on building a deck as well (basically extending bench back to back of boat) I want a storage on backside of front deck as well. Also, for all the seats, I plan on using one of those plates with the holes in them for removable seats. I will have ne on back deck with optional pedestal to raise u up. I will have one in middle of floor and one on front deck. I will also hack into back bench and remove foam as to create storage there as well. My Garmin 140 fishfinder will be mounted on front deck.


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## dixie_boysles

adodger69 said:


> I just got a 1970 14' polar kraft and trailer,so I can't wait to see
> what you do on it cause I figure what works on yours will work
> on mine!
> adodger69


Good deal! My plans are to use aluminum framing to build front deck support back to second support rib. Then I will remove middle bench for open floor plan. Then on the back, I plan on building a deck as well (basically extending bench back to back of boat) I want a storage on backside of front deck as well. Also, for all the seats, I plan on using one of those plates with the holes in them for removable seats. I will have ne on back deck with optional pedestal to raise u up. I will have one in middle of floor and one on front deck. I will also hack into back bench and remove foam as to create storage there as well. My Garmin 140 fishfinder will be mounted on front deck.


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## dixie_boysles

I', tore on what to do as far as primer. I've made up my mind to use self-etcjing primer in a spraycan from walmart. I was told that if I wasnt going down to bare metal, jsut to rough up paint on baot and them paint. But there are bare spots on the boat where there is no paint. Should I just sand and spot primel or should id bite the bullet and prime the whole thing I dont really want to remove all the paint to the metal. Do you think it would be ok just to sand and use self-etching primer over the whole boat. Suggestions please.


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## Brine

dixie_boysles said:


> I', tore on what to do as far as primer. I've made up my mind to use self-etcjing primer in a spraycan from walmart. I was told that if I wasnt going down to bare metal, jsut to rough up paint on baot and them paint. But there are bare spots on the boat where there is no paint. Should I just sand and spot primel or should id bite the bullet and prime the whole thing I dont really want to remove all the paint to the metal. Do you think it would be ok just to sand and use self-etching primer over the whole boat. Suggestions please.



Yes


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## dixie_boysles

Brine said:


> Yes



yes what, prime whole thing or spot prime


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## Brine

dixie_boysles said:


> Do you think it would be ok just to sand and use self-etching primer over the whole boat. Suggestions please.



Yes again... :? 



dixie_boysles said:


> yes what, prime whole thing or spot prime



Maybe I didn't understand your question. 

If you are asking if it's "ok" for either option, the answer is yes so long as the paint that is on the boat is on good, and you properly scuff it up so that the new paint will adhere. 

That said.....If it were me, I'd sand the whole boat, prime the whole boat, then paint the whole boat.


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## wolfmjc

Welcome, good luck on your boat, can't wait to see how it turns out.


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## dixie_boysles

Got some more work done today (I took pics, just havnt uploaded them, working from blackberry). Took the grinder to the bottom of the weak spot since I had an aluminum plate welded to the top of it yesterday. Gonna have another plate welded the bottom of the spot monday. This should insure its leakproof and very strong with about 5/16" of material at that spot. Also, previous owner had silicone on the front rivets, got it all off, gonna hammer them together and seal em back with new stuff. (I've read something about steelflex, what is it and where do u get it). I also got all the old stickers off of it today! Tomorrow, gonna pick up some marine epoxy and tomorrow I'm gonna put this in any screw holes where thing have been mounted over the years. When it cures, I'll sand them down and wallah-no more hole! I'm also gonna pick up some 150 grit (is this ok) sandpaper (for da sander and single sheets to do by hand)to roughen up surface. Is this grit ok or do ya'll recommend something else? Pics tomorrow of progress so far.


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## dyeguy1212

dixie_boysles said:


> (I've read something about steelflex, what is it and where do u get it).




Search function.. top right of the screen


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## dixie_boysles

UPDATE:

Picked up some materials today. 

-1 pack of 150 grit sandpaper
-2 fine grit (150 grit equiv) sponges
-1 tube of marine epoxy (to fill screw holes where thing have been mounted over the years.

Here is progress from yesterday:

Spot welded in floor awaiting aluminum plate for the other side of it






The other side of the spot baing grinded and cleaned for the new plate monday.





The trailer. I redid the bunks, but they are going to have to be Re-done. They are nowhere near tall enough because the boat hits front of trailer when loading. This time i will stack the 2x4s and extend them further up. Also, i have to pick up some 1x1 tubing to make some side bunks.





The trailer will also be painted using the same paint as the boat.






A leaky rivet, I guess ill hammer it together again and then put some kind of sealer around it (suggestions). i've never really fised them. I was told that i should just have them welded when i get that plate put on monday, but i dont know if i like that idea.


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## dixie_boysles

Feb 21 UPDATE:

I went this morning to work on boat some more. Started sanding at 10:30 am and didnt stop until 5:30 pm! I sanded the entire outside of the boat by hand with 150 grit sandpaper. Going today to sand the inside of the boat. Still undecided if i want to spot prime just where bare aluminum is, or just prime the entire thing :?: :? Also you can see where fishfinders have been mounted over the years...lol--there is a 2 1/2" by 2" rectange on the back with about 15 screw holes in it! I am going to have an aluminum plate welded to the back of that spot, then going to fill them in with marine epoxy. I also rebucked all the rivets up front with a sledgehammer on one side and hitting them with a regular hammer. I hope this helps some, but now have to decide if i want to have them welded or just use that marine epoxy around them as well. So many decisions! Also, you can see where i grinded off the sticker, they were really on there and even sticer remover wouldnt remove them---the grinder did! On to the pics, cant really tell its been sanded, but it has and now my arms are about to fall off.





























.

^^one of the leaky rivets. You can tell its been hit and banged on before where its so depressed into the aluminum! What would ya'll guys do in this situation?


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## Troutman3000

Get an order of steelflex and so teh entire bottom and halfway up the sides and all those leaky rivets will be sealed for a long time. You may have to patch the rear holes with aluminum .from the fish finders and so forth.


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## dixie_boysles

Troutman3000 said:


> Get an order of steelflex and so teh entire bottom and halfway up the sides and all those leaky rivets will be sealed for a long time. You may have to patch the rear holes with aluminum .from the fish finders and so forth.



i know ive seen talk about it and searched it some, but couldnt really find what i was looking for. Where do you get it at? Also, do you mean coat it on the outside of the boat or inside, or does it matter?


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## Troutman3000

Look in the top thread thats stickied Everything Steelflex. Everything is in there. My opinions is that if you want to do the inside and oustide that would improve the seal. Otheres have stated thats not necessary though and only the outside is important.


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## dixie_boysles

I'm almost done sading the entire boat! Got half of the inside and all of the outside done so far!


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## Troutman3000

Keep up the good work man!


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## dixie_boysles

Troutman3000 said:


> Keep up the good work man!



Appreciate it, i am getting it the aluminum plate welded on the ouside bottom of the boat tomorrow as well as a small one welded on the back of all those holes where the transducer goes. I should be done sanding tomorrow as well. Then all i lack is putting marine epoxy in any screw holes around the boat and cleaning it up. Then it will be ready for paint!


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## dixie_boysles

Just ordered some Black Vinyl Die Cut Decals for my boat numbers and baot name! Cost me $15.00 locally! 

My boat name is:

"Bass Akwards"


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## dixie_boysles

Here is the new boat name! It replaces the factory PolarKraft stickers. I have two of these. I love the font (BooPee font), I think it compliments the name well! It is in black vinyl. Hope ya'll like it. I think this will look awsome on gray paint


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## dyeguy1212

pretty cool


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## dixie_boysles

alright, i picked up my flooring for the jon boat today! Its a bigass roadsign! No i didnt steal it, i bought it at local salvage yard...lol

I think this will be better than using plywood (ill neer have to replace it, thats for sure!)











Ill cover this in boat carpet and it will look awesome! I just have to get existing rivets out of it, clean it good, measure and cut and place in boat now!


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## 270Handiman

You can definately "spot prime" that boat. Your boat appears to have only the original OD Green paint on it, so it will actually blend pretty well. Because you have sanded it already, I would wipe down the bare areas that need priming with acetone (be sure to overlap out onto the good paint) and prime away. Personally, I would put 2 or 3 coats on to build the thickness up, then after it cured for 5 to 7 days I would lightly scuff the primed areas with a scotchbrite pad so that the finish is slick like the rest of the boat. Then just paint away with whatever regular paint you are going to use.

Because of the leaking rivets, it would probably be wise for you to go with Steelflex on the bottom before you do any other painting. Once the steelflex is on, it can be painted along with the rest of the boat. Here is the thread full of information about the stuff. Hope this helps.

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=11977


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## dyeguy1212

great find on that sign!


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## dixie_boysles

UPDATE: 2/3/10

Got some more sanding done last night! Almost done with that crap! We also went ahead and cut out the middle bench to make even more room in the boat; I'm going to put a fixed pedistal in place of the bench with a swivel seat on it. I use AutoCad everyday, so at work today, im going to draw out my floor template with measurements i took last night and then transfer the template to some thin plastic sheets that we use for templates for granite. That way I can just trace it onto my sign and cut it out!


























I'm a little ticked because when i was cutting out the becnh, we placed an old blanket down in the bottom so i wouldnt get bottom of boat dirty from my boots. Well, unknowing to me, the blanket had oil on it and got a little on the floor of boat. So now i have to sand that part again and make sure i clean it extremely well where the oil was!


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## Troutman3000

That looks great so far.........Keep it up!


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## dixie_boysles

Here is general layout, trying to find out what to use to support floor where the beams u-shape.


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## Johnny5

Looking good man, waiting to see whats happens next, i was thinking about doing the same thing with the bench seat in mine


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## russ010

If you use aluminum, just run a piece of angle from one side to the other, and use a piece of square tubing in the very center to support it (I would honestly use tubing for the hole thing... but that's just me).

Or you can do the same thing with 2x2 wood


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## dixie_boysles

UPDATE:

Im picking up 25' of 1"x1" aluminum angle today. Im having it precut, so all i have to do is rivet it in. Im just going to do like russ^^^ said and run it from one side to the other on each rib. Then ill try to get some more alumiunum next week to fabricate my casting deck. then I should be ready for carpet and paint!


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## dixie_boysles

UPDATE:

Me and my buddy got the support system for the metal floor im putting in. The boat ribs are not flat which poses problems when putting a flat floor in...lol. So I bought some 1x1 aluminum angle and ran it side to side capped on the ribs. It was still giving in the middle some (more than I liked) so i also put som vertical angle in to support the middle . The flooring system is very stout now! I am using a 3/16"-1/4" thick roadsing i bought at the local salvage yard for my floor. It is being covered in gray marine carpet i bought at Lowes. My friend there got me a deal on a remnant he had that was 8'-9 3/4" x 6' for $20!!! that is enought to do my middle floor, and back bench! I still need to buy about 10 more feet I think. on to the pics:











here you can see the vertical support in the floor, this made it VERY stout.











Also, where the floor butts up to the face of the back bench, there was no support, so i riveted some angle there to support there


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## Rat

Nice, that should be good and solid; nothing worse than a springy floor! Are you gonna foam under it?


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## dixie_boysles

Rat said:


> Nice, that should be good and solid; nothing worse than a springy floor! Are you gonna foam under it?



yep! but im torn on what to do. I want foam board, but is like $12.50 a sheet! It would take 2-3 sheets to fill in that space up to the bottom face of the floor. I thought about using the expanding foam. What do ya'll think? Has anyone ever used the Great stuff foam for this application? How is it or should i stop whining and get the foamboard.


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## Rat

Don't use Great Stuff, besides not being USCG approved, it will probably be more expensive than foam board. I would go with either a two part foam or foam board. If you want to keep the limber holes open for drainage to the stern of the boat then I would use foam board; if you use two part foam you will need to blank off the limber holes/channels so you don't fill them with foam.


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## dixie_boysles

I have a ? for you guys. I am torn if I want to paint the "whole" boat or not. I know I'm painting the whole outside, but im not sure if i should paint the inside bottom as well. I mean it is going to be covered in a carpeted from front to back. So should I just paint the whole boat or just the outside and the inside sides?


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## Rat

I am just going to paint the parts that are exposed from under the decks/sole. I will probably hit the interior of the lockers with an off white color to brighten them up a bit as well, but that's all.


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## Brine

That's looking really good, and I like Rat's thought on paint.


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## russ010

You did it right man!!! =D> 

I wouldn't worry with painting the bottom of the inside either.. it's not going to do any good.


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## dixie_boysles

Saturday, me and the future father-in-law worked on the boat some more. We got a big step done! We got the floor and sides cut to size! That metal roadsign i bought now makes a nice floorboard! I have to cover it in boat carpet now that i have in my building. Also the sides that you see will be covered in boat carpet. The sign wasnt quite long enough, so we butted a trimming from the sign when we cut it up the the end we needed extedned and then put another peice under is and pop riveted it all together. Its VERY storong and will never rot!

i wanted to go with all metal floor, but i think im just gonna go ahead and make my front casting deck out of 3/4" plywood. I have to have a piece anyways to go on the back bench so that i can mount my swivel seat to it. Pretty much the whole inside of the boat will be carpeted except for the area behind the back bench. It sjust about ready for paint. I have to go this week to get some 1x1 alum. angle to frame the front deck.










^^^here you can see where we riveted it together


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## Troutman3000

looks great man


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## dixie_boysles

Update 4/12/10:

Yesterday, the future father-in-law and I got some more work done on the boat. We framed out the front casting deck/storage area using 1x1 aluminum angle. It turned out real nice and is VERY strong. We used 3/16" x 1/2" grip aluminum rivets to hold it all together. As you can see, there is plent of bracing. Also had the front seat pedestal i got from Sara's daddy sandbalsed by neighbor. I primed it with etching primer and painted it with Krylon Fusion Satin Black (LOVE THIS PAINT) I have to go this week and pick up a full sheet of 3/4" plywood to cap it off now and also to cap off the back bench. Everything that you see in wood and metal is going to have gray carpet on it. Im also going to carpet the inside under the casting deck in the storage area so that when things are in there, they aren't banging on metal. 

To do this now:

-mount plywood for casting deck (all plywood will fiberglassed for waterproofing)
-mount plywood on back bench so i can securely mount a swivel seat
-carpet entire inside of boat (excluding the area behind back bench)
-install both seats
-wire up fishfinder and running lights
-have front of boat reinforced with 1 1/4" aluminum tubing (you can see where we had to cut the old reinforcing off because it was ragged.)
-paint boat
paint trailer

so as you can see, we've made alot of progress, but still have alot to do


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## Froggy

Man, you guys did great looks like a plane wing with all the screws, tres cool!


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## dixie_boysles

Im so tore on how I want to go about painting it. I have one more step to do before paint now. All i lack is fixing the very front of the boat where we had to cut the gunwhaler (or whatever that lip is called) off. Then its time for paint! Now my problem is how do I want to go about painting it. Ive said before that I was was just going to prime where the bare metal spots were and then paint the whole boat. The whole boat has been sanded in 120-150 grit sandpaper top to bottom. Im only painting the outside and about 4" down on the inside (all the rest will be covered). 

Now here is the inward struggle I'm having with myself. A part of me is just wanting to go ahead and prime the whole outside of the boat using Nason etching primer (Dupont brand). I recently used it on my seat pedestal followed up with krylon fusion and it truned out GREAT. But im also looking at the 5-6 dollar per can it will cost on top of the $45 for paint. Ive never rattle canned a boat. *How many regular size spray cans will it take to prime a boat with two coats?* I guess if i knew this number, i would feel better. The reason im wanting to do it this way is to insure the paint looks good. I know its a jon boat but still! But at the same time, the factory paint could still be used as a primer. *what would you guys do!!!!????*


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## dixie_boysles

bump


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## perchin

It took me 3 cans to primer two coats on my 14'. I didn't do the very bottom on mine though.


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## Ictalurus

Dixie

Your PK is looking good. The open floor plan is nice, I kept the middle seat in mine hoping to add a livewell someday. Good find on the aluminum sign!


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## Froggy

Do it right the first time, paint the whole thing, just looks better you know. :wink:


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## rtg

How thick was the 1"X1" angle? Thanks


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## dixie_boysles

rtg said:


> How thick was the 1"X1" angle? Thanks


sorry i havent chekced this thread in a while! the angle for the floor was 1/8. The angle for the casting deck was 3/16

UPDATE:

Taking it monday to have the fron gunwhale fixed! i hed to cut it off due to previous owner hacking it up for a trolling motor. Im taking a peice of 1 1/4" diameter aluminum pipe and have a 1/4" slot milled the length of the pipe and capping it over the sheetmetal where i cut it. The welder will then notch it where it meets the side gunwhales and wled it to them making it look factory! Then its off to the paint booth!


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## dixie_boysles

finally an update. Not a big one, but an update none the less. Work slowed down on the ol' boat this past month. Finally able to get back to it. I attacked the front of the boat yesterday. Whoever owned the boat before me was an idiot. They tried to fix the front they hacked up with the wrong type of welder and it was really awful looking. You can see where I had to cut the front gunwhale off as it was pretted effed up. I had to get the boat ready for the welder for the last time. Where the gunwhale was, I am having a 1 1/4" diameter aluminum pipe put there. The welder is going to mill a slit the length of the pipe and cap if over where i had to cut the old gunwhale off. and then tie it into the side gunwhales making it really strong. Then where that front bench meets the front of the boat, you can see their awful attempt at welding! i cut all that shit off. Going today to get a piec of aluminum cut to tie the front bench in back to where it was.

Before:












After:
















Yes I know it looks rough, but after tomorrow it wont! But I'm sure you guys have seen worse!


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## dixie_boysles

got the front bench braced to the front of the boat today! used 16 guage aluminum sheetmetal cut to size and bent to the right angke by the local machine shop. Looks 10000000000 times better. going to the welder tomorrow to get the gunwhale (1 5/16" aluminum pipe) capped over that sheetmetal and tied into the side gunwhales.






better pics tomorrow


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## Rat

That should do it, looks good.


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## dixie_boysles

bump


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## dixie_boysles

going to pick the boat up from the welder today!! gunwale fixed!!


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## Troutman3000

I know you are ready for that arent you?


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## cavman138

that looks like it should work great


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## dixie_boysles

Picked the boat up yesterday with a new gunwale on the front! I looks awesome! I had to have it mad in two pieces as I went to like 5 different places looking for a 1 1/4" pipe that was long enough. Fianlly found some, but it wasnt long enough. But he had one long piece and one short piece. So I had him piece it together. Where the weld it, i will grind it smooth and it all gets painted, so it will look fine. I must say the front of the boat is STRONG again! 





















That means this week (probably saturday) I will put it up on some sawhorses and epoxy 4 slow leaky rivets. Then i will pick up a can of Nason (by dupont) etching primer from O'Reilly's (good stuff) and prime any bare metal spots. Then in a week or two, Ill wash her good and then paint her flat grey!


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## Brine

Looks like that will do the trick. I'm sure it feels good to get that part done.


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## dixie_boysles

Brine said:


> Looks like that will do the trick. I'm sure it feels good to get that part done.


Yeah, its all down here from here! Now just paint, deck and carpet...done


----------



## dixie_boysles

FINALLY another update! Haven,t messed with boat much this summer due to vacation and other projects. So I ordered my Parker Coatings Duck Boat paint today directly from the company (cheaper than buying it from cabelas).

I ordered the "Bay Grey" which is a flat grey. Having my body man spray it next weekend. 

I also took the boat to the local watershed to test for leaks since taking having all this welding and work done. Good news, just one small leak on one of the welds. Going to marine epoxy it and be done with it. After paint, installing my floors and seats and all.


----------



## dixie_boysles

Man, i need some followers on this thread!

I got my paint from Parker Coatings in today!!! Going to try and get it up on some saw horses today and get it washed and ready for primer (just bare spots)

As for my trailer, what would be a good paint to get for it, just a good black roll on paint or something? It doesnt ahve to be a car like smooth finish, and I dont know if i want rattlecan the whole thing. I also dont want to take it to my body man to paint for me


----------



## rook

I would think some type of Rustoleum paint would work great for the trailer. Something that will fight the rust is some way. Its looking good man. Keep it up.


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## dixie_boysles

alright I have an update!!!!!!!!!

took the boat to my friend's body shop today. We turned it upside down, I cleaned it with miniral spirits or something, then wiped it down with a tack cloth. Then primed it with etching primer on any bare aluminum surfaces. then wiped it with a tack cloth again. Then he showed me how to use the gun by applying the first coat. Then i applied two more coats while wiping with tack cloth between coats. It turned out amazing! I used Parker Coatings Bay Grey Duck Boat paint and I couldnt be more impressed with the covereage and the quality of the paint.


----------



## Howard

Really looks nice,always good to have a bud with a shop. I too like the Parkers paint.


----------



## countryboy210

WOW !
Coming Along Well !


----------



## Jim

Nice job brother! :beer:

Really coming along awesome!


----------



## CrewCabMax

Did you have the thin the Parkers paint to spray it? If so, how much? I Too will be using the parkers paint here soon and was thining about spraying it. Do you get better coverage by spraying or rolling? How many coats do you think your going to need with spraying? Looksa AWSOME by the way!! Thanks!!

Joe


----------



## dixie_boysles

CrewCabMax said:


> Did you have the thin the Parkers paint to spray it? If so, how much? I Too will be using the parkers paint here soon and was thining about spraying it. Do you get better coverage by spraying or rolling? How many coats do you think your going to need with spraying? Looksa AWSOME by the way!! Thanks!!
> 
> Joe


I wish I could be of better help about thinning it, but seeing as I didn't thin it, my friend does that owns the bodyshop I sprayed it in thinned it for me each time. But to answer your qestion, yes, u do have to thin it to spray it. If you go to Parker coatings site and click on "Duck Boat Paint" it will give u a Material Data Sheet for the paint in PDF format that gives u all the directions for the paint. IIRC, you have to thin it 15 percent or something like that. Also, we put three coats on and I still have about half a gallon or so. That's just outside and partial inside.

I'd say put three to four coats on and also let it bake in son as the paint is still pretty soft (I've already caused a few marks in it).

Other than this it sprayed great. Even my friend said the paint was pretty thick.


----------



## dixie_boysles

UPDATE:

Alright, I intalled a new Bow Eyelet that I bought from iboats.com. I backed it with a 1/4" thick piece of aluminum plate so that it is even stronger. 












Also as you can see, where the paint is still soft, i rubbed off some paint  Going to fix that soon. I hope this paint hardens up good!

I then placed on my new decals and numbers, but read that in NC, your numbers have to be 3", so i took them off, ordering some more today.


----------



## dixie_boysles

UPDATE 9/18/10

Prepare to be amazed! i got ALOT of work done on the boat this week/weekend!! The boat is now officially 95 percent done!! 

This past weekend i got all of my wood on the project coated in two coats of Fiberglass resin to waterproof it as I cannot use treated on aluminum as it will oxidize and pit aluminum.

I also got EVERYTHING carpeted with the exception of the back peice of wood that goes on top of the back bench that the swivel seat mouts to. I have to get my papa to make me a bracket to come up through the wood to mount the seat to to make it more stout. Then I will carpet that final peice this week after that is done. I used contact cement, almost half a gallon to attach the carpet. its not going ANYWHERE!!

I bought two toggle switches to hook my two running lights and courtesy lights to. I mounted them on the front face of the casting deck. All I have left on the boat now is to mount the seats, attach all these panels permanatley, and wire all of my lights, fishfinder and trolling motor. Also, you will notice that the lights are no other than RANGER domelights! lol

ANyways on to the pics. on the front face of the casting deck there is a 12x9 hole there that i just hanvnt cut the caprt out yet, ran out of time today. that is my storage access under the deck for stuff.

Nice carpet!










The wood i have to still carpet and mount my swivel seat to





Ranger domelight FTW!










my light switches:











casting deck. my fishfinder will be mounted here also


























I have now owned this boat a year and you can see its come along way! I have about 1100 in it right now including purchase price of boat and trailer. Next im working on painting my trailer and making it purdee like the boat

Just for reference, this is what I started with:


----------



## Troutman3000

looking good man, you are gonna enjoy all the modifcations.


----------



## dtwarrow

that's awesome man.


----------



## DaveInGA

Looking good, wish mine was that close to completion.


----------



## dixie_boysles

gonna work on it some more today and try to get lights mounted and fishfinder bracket mounted.


----------



## dixie_boysles

ordered these today!





Some Rod Saver Side Mount 6's. Two of them. one for each side of the boat!


----------



## albright1695

Looking great Scott!


----------



## Howard

love how open it is


----------



## dixie_boysles

Got the side courtesy lights mounted yesterday with the help of my beautiful fiance! She made the boat look even better...lol
















Mocking the Depthfinder into place; a Garmin 140


----------



## RBuffordTJ

I love the open floor plan on that boat, simple and clean! It is always good to have help nearby, my wife is a great helper for me with stuff like this too so hold onto that girl. 

What, if any, are the plans now?

Bufford


----------



## dixie_boysles

RBuffordTJ said:


> I love the open floor plan on that boat, simple and clean! It is always good to have help nearby, my wife is a great helper for me with stuff like this too so hold onto that girl.
> 
> What, if any, are the plans now?
> 
> Bufford


Oh i plan on it! My plans now are to finish the bach bench area. I am mounting the carpeting it today and mounting the swivel seat to it. I installed the rear light pole socket yesterday, pics later. Then this weekend, will be doing the wiring for all the lights and stuff.


----------



## dixie_boysles

Look what came today!! I have one more comig next week!


----------



## dixie_boysles

a few things ive got done the past few days:

Rear light pole Socket:










Then the seat support for my rear swivel seat. My papa cut a 1/8" steel plate and drilled holes for me to go up under the wood on top of the back bench. Today i cut a pocket in the bottom of the wood for the plate and nuts to recess into. I used a skilsaw and a router. 











Tomorrow the board will get carpeted and the seat will get mounted.
I also installed the front seat today to the swivel and to the pedestal but did take pics.

and here are my GREAT RodSaver SM6 side mount rod holders!












Before anyone askes, i know its over the ligth but no it will not hinder it. Im using LEDs in the lights and a little ol rod aint gonna block all that light. Those bulbs should be here soon.

After tomorrow, ALL i lack is wiring and fastening all the panels down and this boat is DONE!!!

next is the trailer painting and new bunks for it and this WHOLE project is done!!


----------



## dixie_boysles

morning bump


----------



## DaveInGA

Howdy,

You might want to paint that steel plate you put in with some liquid electrical tape to give it a good water resistant coating, then put a thing plastic or rubber mat underneath it to separate it from the aluminum seat. It can rust and cause corrosion of your aluminum seat if you do not. 

I had steel nutserts in the seats of my Tracker V17 and they had rusted shut, so I had a very hard time removing the seat from the boat during teardown. Protecting against that as much as you can would be helpful down the road.


----------



## dixie_boysles

alight thanks!


----------



## lbursell

dixie_boysles said:


> ordered these today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some Rod Saver Side Mount 6's. Two of them. one for each side of the boat!




Saw those same rod holders in Academy this afternoon for like $16 bucks each. Almost bought a couple of sets myself. Looks like you'll be pleased with 'em.


----------



## cavman138

Boat is looking great man. Nice job


----------



## dixie_boysles

Just because I like looking at before and afters of the boat:

Earlier this year (March I think):







YESTERDAY:






Once I get the trailer painted, it will all look new!


----------



## DaveInGA

Looking good dude, get that trailer wrapped up and go fishing!


----------



## Howard

Very nice......


----------



## dixie_boysles

worked on the boat some more today, nothing major. just installed the front anchor point. After that I was itching to do something else when it hit me. I needed to make some backing plates for the trolling motor when I mount it on the back so im not scratching the mess out of some paint. I used some leftover aluminum I had to make them. Made a trip to lowes to get some stainless bolts; some 1/4 20 X 2 1/2 hex bolts and washers with some lock nuts. I was working in the dark...lol






inside the boat backing plate:






Front anchor point tie off:






also installed the left side rod holder:






Cant wait till saturday for the wiring and possible test run


----------



## dixie_boysles

Tease until this afternoon:


----------



## S-31

This boat looks great! Good job. Im new here and ive read through your build several times but i cant find anything about how you are attaching the sides and floor to the boat and what type wood did you use for the sides? Are you just going to screw the floor and sides down through the carpet or did you screw everything down and then put the carpet over it? Sorry for the dumb questions, I found this site because i was trying to figure out a way to open up the inside of my 14' alumacraft, and the way you have built yours is exactly what i want to do with mine. Thanks


----------



## dixie_boysles

S-31 said:


> This boat looks great! Good job. Im new here and ive read through your build several times but i cant find anything about how you are attaching the sides and floor to the boat and what type wood did you use for the sides? Are you just going to screw the floor and sides down through the carpet or did you screw everything down and then put the carpet over it? Sorry for the dumb questions, I found this site because i was trying to figure out a way to open up the inside of my 14' alumacraft, and the way you have built yours is exactly what i want to do with mine. Thanks



I'm sorry, I dont think I did specify how eveything is attached did I?. Well here is a breakdown. Also, in the folowing pics, you can see some of the fastners. 

I used a 3/16" thick aluminum road sign for my floor. It is cut to size and everything. It is best to use cardboard or somthing to make a pattern of all the panels and then trace them onto your wood or whatever material you are using. Like I said I used aluminum for my main floor. For the sides I used thin 1/8" wood. *ALL* wood needs to be coated with AT LEAST two coats of fiberglass resin. I picked it up at walmart in auto section for $11 a can. For my front casting deck, I used a 1/2" UNTREATED piece of plywood. You can go thicker, but as you can see in my pics, my casting deck was beefed up by using 1x1 aluminum angle. For the peice of carpeted wood on the back bench, I took and contact cemented two pieces of the 1/2" together. cut a hole in one piece the size of you swivel and make a steel plate to go in that hole. You can see that in the above pics. Also, on a side note, make sure you use stainless bolts and nuts and all. All this can be had at Lowes. for the panel o the front of the casting deck with the storage access hole, that is just a piece of roadsign as well (I bought all of these at a local salvage yard). 

Now for carpeting. The reason why my carpet looks so good and wrinkle free is my process I used. I have a nice flat concrete carport. If you have a garage or carport, i recommend carpeting there. You need to buy a gallon of contact cement at Lowes and a few cheap brushes. after all of you panels have been cut and treated with resin and dried, its time to carpet. take you carpet andlay it face down on the concrete. Then lay your pieces on it the side down to be carpeted. trace around it like 2-3" off of the edge to allow for the carpet to lap over the edges of the panel and be glued down. after all panels have been traced, cut out the carpet on those lines. Then take your panel back up and lay it down beside the carpet. now take the contact cement and apply it to BOTH surfaces to be put together. After the contact cement has tacked up, take the panel and lay it in place on the back of the carpet. this may take two people. Once you lay it down, its there to stay, you CANT fix it. so make sure you position it correctly before you lay it in place. now step on the back of the panel to make sure the surfaces get pressed together. now take and put glue on the pieces to be lapped over and onto the back edge of the wood. once it has tacked up, fold it over and press. i stepped on the edges too to press them down. Now do this process to all of the panels. 

Once all panels are carpeted. you can intall them in the boat. I seen that you asked how they were fastened. Well the floor was pretty heavy since it was aluminum. I didnt fasten it down. it is actually held in place by all the other panels as they sit on TOP of it and ARE fastened down. I used 3/16" X 1/2" long aluminum rivets to hold anything thin (sides and front face of casting deck) for the top of the casting deck I used #14 X 1" STAINLESS sheetmetal screws. one in each corner of the casting deck. For the back seat area, I used the same screws, but in 2" length as remember i glued two pieces of plywood together. again one in each corner. I actually put one right behind the back seat as well since 5 came in a bag. All of these fastners you can get at lowes. 

Just look at the pics im about to post and you can see some of my fasteners. also if you would like, i will take pics of how everything is fastened just for ya after work


----------



## dixie_boysles

TEH BOAT IS DONE!!! well took the boat out for her maiden voayage since all of the mods. SHE DID AWESOME! She was very comfortable, steady and leak free! i was amazed! take a look at the pics:
















The fuse panel:

















































































Its been a fun project, but Im glad she is DONE!!! now I can enjoy her! any ???, feel free to ask! Now Im moving on the trailer


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## Troutman3000

You did a great job man! Nothing feels better does it?


=D>


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## dixie_boysles

no it does not, i love it!


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## BaitCaster

Looks great. Congrats!


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## S-31

Thanks for spelling all that out, it helps alot. I hope yo don't mind me copying your ideas but your boat is exactly how i want mine to be laid out. Once again, great job on the boat and thanks for all the info.


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## dixie_boysles

S-31 said:


> Thanks for spelling all that out, it helps alot. I hope yo don't mind me copying your ideas but your boat is exactly how i want mine to be laid out. Once again, great job on the boat and thanks for all the info.



lol heck i copied someone else's boat just made mine better! so i dont mind! I pesonally think that this is the best layout for a jon boat as it is very versatile and open.


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## DaveInGA

Your boat looks great and I'm jealous. I wish mine was to that point. Enjoy her!


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## tripleup05

Fantastic man! Y

You may have mentioned and I overlooked it, but what is the width of your boat?


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## dixie_boysles

Its a 1440. Thanks ya'll!!!


----------



## SaltyBuckster

I have done a couple boats through the years,seems like when I am done with one,I always want a better one,lol.You did a very nice job on yours.So,what's your next project going to be?I'm going to be moving back to Pa. after 30 years in Arizona,so I got a 16 foot flatbottom that I'm doing right now for the river there.You gave me some bery good ideas.


----------



## playall8

Nice Job looks great


----------



## Mpd165

Good work. I"m picking up my boat on the 22nd and cant wait. Seeing threads like this one motivate me and give me ideas of what all I plan on doing with mine when I get it.


----------



## dixie_boysles

azslabber said:


> I have done a couple boats through the years,seems like when I am done with one,I always want a better one,lol.You did a very nice job on yours.So,what's your next project going to be?I'm going to be moving back to Pa. after 30 years in Arizona,so I got a 16 foot flatbottom that I'm doing right now for the river there.You gave me some bery good ideas.



nope, this is it for me! I did it the right way, the way I wanted on this ne because I know i wanted to keep this one. Its a great boat and I couldnt ever get rid of her. Even when I get a bass boat, ill still have "Bass Akwards". My next project starts this week and that is the trailer. needs new bearing seal, new bunks and paint. I already have the stuff for th enew bunks


----------



## bbarbee

You did a great job. I hope mine turns out that nice. I may be hit'n you up with some questions if thats o.k.


----------



## dixie_boysles

bbarbee said:


> You did a great job. I hope mine turns out that nice. I may be hit'n you up with some questions if thats o.k.



Thas is quite fine! I would not been able to do mine had it not been for other members of the site


----------



## one4one

So how much carpet did you end up using?


----------



## etothepii

Absolutely fantastic. Looks very professional.


----------



## BLK fisher

Well done. Enjoy it, you deserve it.


----------



## dixie_boysles

She's getting a foot controlled trolling motor at the end of the month! She just sets under a tarp right now with all this snow on the ground


----------



## dixie_boysles

one4one said:


> So how much carpet did you end up using?



Um 16' X 6' if you add it all up.


----------



## dixie_boysles

etothepii said:


> Absolutely fantastic. Looks very professional.


Thanks!


----------



## one4one

Thanks for the reply! I plan to use the same design on my PolarKraft. to Cold to work on it just now .Garage is full of Motorcycles & Car's no room for the Jon.


----------



## lpotter

How much would you estimate you have in modifications of this rig? I love it and have just purchased a 1436 Montgomery Ward Seaking that I am getting ready to start on.


----------



## Ictalurus

Looks good Dixie. You going to put a motor on the back of that thing? I see you're going with the front mount trolling motor, are you putting a seat up on the deck or using your front seat to fish out of? I had a permanently mounted seat in the front also, recently I put in some seat bases, got tired of tripping over extra seats with just me in the boat.


----------



## dixie_boysles

no i have a transom mount trolling motor, and nope i have a 25 hp mercury lined up, gotta wait till after wedding this year or fiance will kill me lol. i however do have a bow foot controlled motor coming


----------



## ishootthings

your floor is awesome. i want to do mine like that as well. very nice


----------



## boduke63

Hey as you can tell I am new to the site but for the past few days I have been looking at all the jon boats on here and yours is one of my favorite 14 footers. My question is how wide is your boat? I really would like to incorporate your open design into my boat.

Thanks!


----------



## dixie_boysles

My boat is a 1440 (40 inches at the bottom or beam as they call it). Thanks, yeah that was my goal to have a nice open boat. I don't like crowded and I didn't want high decks. I eanted my fiance to be able to lay out in a bikini in that florlor if you k ow what I mean lol.

Also both me and my future father in law have huge tackle bags and carry like 5 poles apiece when fishing. Believe it or not, all that open space fills up fast. I too think I have one of the best laid out rigs. Everything is as it should be


----------



## jasper60103

I was wondering how did you attach the side panels to boat?...



dixie_boysles said:


> Saturday, me and the future father-in-law worked on the boat some more. We got a big step done! We got the floor and sides cut to size! That metal roadsign i bought now makes a nice floorboard! I have to cover it in boat carpet now that i have in my building. Also the sides that you see will be covered in boat carpet. The sign wasnt quite long enough, so we butted a trimming from the sign when we cut it up the the end we needed extedned and then put another peice under is and pop riveted it all together. Its VERY storong and will never rot!
> 
> i wanted to go with all metal floor, but i think im just gonna go ahead and make my front casting deck out of 3/4" plywood. I have to have a piece anyways to go on the back bench so that i can mount my swivel seat to it. Pretty much the whole inside of the boat will be carpeted except for the area behind the back bench. It sjust about ready for paint. I have to go this week to get some 1x1 alum. angle to frame the front deck.


----------



## Ictalurus

Dixie, I like it =D> 



dixie_boysles said:


> My boat is a 1440 (40 inches at the bottom or beam as they call it).


I think the bottom and beam are two different things, correct me if I'm wrong. 40" at the bottom and should be about 54" at the beam (gunnel). Removing the middle seat was a nice touch. I went over and over that on my build and decided to leave it in for the three person river cruise. I did replace my permanently mounted seats with seat posts so I'm not tripping over unused seats and that was a nice upgrade. Let me know when you strap an old smoker to the back of that thing, I just put a '66 Johnson 20 HP on my 1440 and hope it does the trick. One great addition to your trailer would be some bunks-guide ons, really help on windy days.


----------



## Trouble

I'm new to this site, "great site by the way" I too would like to know how you attached the plywood to the sides of your boat. Also, I'm interested in removing my middle seat, but I'm afraid it will weaken the sides of the hull. I see that a lot of people removed the middle bench does this affect the structural integrity of the boat?


----------



## dixie_boysles

Ictalurus said:


> Dixie, I like it =D>
> 
> 
> 
> dixie_boysles said:
> 
> 
> 
> My boat is a 1440 (40 inches at the bottom or beam as they call it).
> 
> 
> 
> I think the bottom and beam are two different things, correct me if I'm wrong. 40" at the bottom and should be about 54" at the beam (gunnel). Removing the middle seat was a nice touch. I went over and over that on my build and decided to leave it in for the three person river cruise. I did replace my permanently mounted seats with seat posts so I'm not tripping over unused seats and that was a nice upgrade. Let me know when you strap an old smoker to the back of that thing, I just put a '66 Johnson 20 HP on my 1440 and hope it does the trick. One great addition to your trailer would be some bunks-guide ons, really help on windy days.
Click to expand...


hmmm you may be right. i know mine is 40 at the bottom, i just thought it was called the beam...lol. yeah i have not seen a loss in integrity either. I would like to have put a removable sean up front and maybe still will one day; but that fixed post was free so i couldnt complain..lol also as for the trailer, its not done for sure! i have new bunk boards and carpet to fix that problem and also the metal to make some side guides. also gonna sand the trailer down and repaint nice glossy black

as to the other question, the side pieces are riveted in. its only 3/16" wood that has been double coated in fiberglass. my rips go up the sides a little so it was perfect for riveting into


----------



## ouachita1648

I have sealed lots of holes in old aluminum boats with polyurethane construction adhesive. It comes in a caulk style tube and is very inexpensive. It becomes very hard and I have never had any issues with it and it can be painted after it cures. Plus you can find it almost anywhere. I get mine at home depot. Just make sure you sand area to bare metal so it cant flake off with paint.


----------



## dixie_boysles

ouachita1648 said:


> I have sealed lots of holes in old aluminum boats with polyurethane construction adhesive. It comes in a caulk style tube and is very inexpensive. It becomes very hard and I have never had any issues with it and it can be painted after it cures. Plus you can find it almost anywhere. I get mine at home depot. Just make sure you sand area to bare metal so it cant flake off with paint.



lol thanks, but the boat is done for sure!


----------



## bubba3689

hey man the boat looks awesome. i wanted to ask u if u have any pics of how the sides are mounted. i like the look its real clean. i want to try to do that on my boat. and also what thickness is your aluminum angle u used. thanks


----------



## bubba3689

well i just seen one of ur previous posts on how u riveted the sides in. did u rivet it any up top or just to the support ribs


----------



## dixie_boysles

Just on the ribs. Two per rib. It holds the panel tight even up top


----------



## cmatthews_jm

I know this may be a little late, but I saw this and thought this would be perfect for what I want to do to the boat my dad and I have. It would open it up for some roomy fishin and still make it possible for me to duck hunt out of it as well. I was wondering though, just because I'm working on a real tight budget, about how much would you recommend squirreling away to be able to finance this project? The boat looks great and the effort you put into this boat really shows. Quality work my friend.


----------



## dixie_boysles

cmatthews_jm said:


> I know this may be a little late, but I saw this and thought this would be perfect for what I want to do to the boat my dad and I have. It would open it up for some roomy fishin and still make it possible for me to duck hunt out of it as well. I was wondering though, just because I'm working on a real tight budget, about how much would you recommend squirreling away to be able to finance this project? The boat looks great and the effort you put into this boat really shows. Quality work my friend.



hmmm, it depends, my boat needed some work before i could actually do the resto. to get a fully carpeted boat like min, you will need a minimum of $600 IMHO. I have and extra 1100 in mine (on top of the 600 i paid for boat and trailer). So i have a little over $1700 in the boat and i dont even have a gas motor. not only that, i found the cheapest route to do things but still got quality results. All the work except for the aluminum welding was done my me and friends.

*Costs (from what i remember)*

Boat and Trailer: $600 (you cant buy this boat brand new for less than
Registration and Titling: $120
Welding: $50 (and that was done at a discount because I knew the guy)
Aluminum angle: $60 new
sheet metal (to fix front):$12
1 5/16" Aluminum pipe (front gunnal) $12
Duck Boat Paint: $48 (directly ordered from Parker Coatings...cheapest route)
Seats: $40 at bass pro on sale
Carpet: $55 i got it for a steal because I used to work at Lowes and fish with the guy in flooring
Contact Cement: $33 Lowes
Sandpaper and supplies for sanding $15 Lowes
Stainless Hardware: $40 Lowes
Rivets $20 Lowes (had access to free rivet gun)
Front Seat Pedestal: Free (had it sandblasted for free and i painted it)
Swivels: $16 Walmart
Spray Paint and Primer for Swivel: $12 O'Reilly's
Front Bow stainless Eyelet: $14 iboats.com
Self Etching Primer: $10 Walmart
Fiberglass Resin: (3 cans) $33 Walmart
supplies for fiberglassing wood: $10 Walmart
1/2" Plywood (casting deck and top of back bench): $36 Lowes (had to buy two pieces because of a stupid accident on my part)
Side wooden pieces: Free at work
3/16" Aluminum Road sign: $55 salvage yard
RodSaver Rod Holders: $34 Amazon.com
Wiring: Free
Side Lights from Ford Ranger: $3.00 (i already had one, i had to buy another.
extra sidelights just in case: $10.00 (i bought two more incase i wanted to add lights elsewhere)
Navigation lighting and sockets: $35 walmart
Fuse Block: $9 at Advance Auto
Paint Booth usage: $20 (I know the guy)
Winch Strap: $10 Walmart
Anchor Points: $6 Walmart
Garmin 140 Fishfinder: $100 Amazon.com
50# Thrust Minn Kota Transom Mount trolling motor: $120 Craigslist (only one year old!!!)
Battery: $85 Walmart
Battery Box: $9 Walmart
Life Vests: $10 Walmart
Throw Cusion: $9 Walmart
Watertight box (keys and phone): $5 Walmart
Anchor Free
Trailer tie downs: $16 Walmart
light switches: Free

*TOTAL: $1742 (give or take)*

like I said, i got a bunch of discounted stuff and free stuff, had i bought the boat and trailer new along with no discounts or anything, that number would be ofer twice that.


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## cmatthews_jm

I really appreciate that 'budget' list. I've already got a boat, motor, battery(2), trolling motor, and all the safety stuff so thats a little less money I would have to spend. I think most of my money will go into a new paint job, and new flooring/decking. And I'm really interested in how you took out that middle seat. That is awesome considering I had never really thought about doing that. I do have a question though. Did you foam underneath the aluminum sign you put down for the floor? I don't remember reading about it but I'm sure you did. What did you do it with?


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## dixie_boysles

cmatthews_jm said:


> I really appreciate that 'budget' list. I've already got a boat, motor, battery(2), trolling motor, and all the safety stuff so thats a little less money I would have to spend. I think most of my money will go into a new paint job, and new flooring/decking. And I'm really interested in how you took out that middle seat. That is awesome considering I had never really thought about doing that. I do have a question though. Did you foam underneath the aluminum sign you put down for the floor? I don't remember reading about it but I'm sure you did. What did you do it with?



WELLLLLLL, I should have put foam down, but I didnt :/ I already had spent a bit and didnt wanna fork out more. but my floor is removable (if i remove some rivets) so i can add it at a later time. I would reccommed it though to put some down. As far as the middle bench goes, i just took a sawzall to that mother and out she came! I left the little flaps that rivet it to the boat as i didnt see a need to make new holes to fill. just cut it close as you can to the side of the boat and then hammer down the flaps since you are covering them up anyways with carpeted side pieces.

but yeah, i didnt get all this at one time lol. The trolling motor i got a few years ago, but all the other stuff, i have been getting since the beginning of 2010.

But remember this stuff adds up real quick


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## dixie_boysles

jasper60103 said:


> I was wondering how did you attach the side panels to boat?...



after i carpeted them, i riveted them in. my bottom rib supports go up the sides a little bit. I riveted them into those, not the actual sides of the boat

in this pic, you can vaguely see the rivets:


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## cmatthews_jm

> But remember this stuff adds up real quick



Yeah I understand that. I just needed an estimate on what I should start saving. I think now it would be safe to keep around $700 in the bank. Dad is a commercial brick mason and I could probably get some materials (angle alum., foam, wood, etc.) from scavenging a job site or two. Hopefully anyway.

About how long do you think it took you to sand the boat and would you recommend the use of some sort of sander?


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## dixie_boysles

cmatthews_jm said:


> But remember this stuff adds up real quick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I understand that. I just needed an estimate on what I should start saving. I think now it would be safe to keep around $700 in the bank. Dad is a commercial brick mason and I could probably get some materials (angle alum., foam, wood, etc.) from scavenging a job site or two. Hopefully anyway.
> 
> About how long do you think it took you to sand the boat and would you recommend the use of some sort of sander?
Click to expand...


two long days of working on it---only breaking for to eat. we tried a palm sander, but the ol hand did the job best. be prepared with masks and stuff


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## cmatthews_jm

That sounds good man, Im very ready to start this process. I'm gonna get some pictures this weekend and post them sometime next week so that I can can some advice on what need to happen as far as hull condition goes before I actually start 'doing it up' nice. I do appreciate that you posted this reno. It truly is something to be proud of.


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## dixie_boysles

no problem! im here to help with anything! I had no intentions of a boat this nice until i started looking on this site, next thing i know ive spent a crap load of money and i have one nice jon boat!


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## Froggy

Looking good man!


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## dixie_boysles

I just got a foot controlled trolling motor from my dad for free. Its an oler style but Ill tell you what, it looks like a stout beast. all metal design so I dont have to worry about breaking anything lol. 

Its a Mariner trolling motor and the only thing I know about it is what I found on iboats. does ANYONE know anything about these or owned one?

Here is what i found (not my motor, but i have one exactly like it)


> Well, after playing with it a bit last night, I think I have it figured out. It's a scissor mount, but it isn't nearly as easy as pulling a cord and dropping it into position.
> 
> Stowed position:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Operational postion:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Switching between the two, while on the water, may be interesting to put it mildly.
> 
> Step 1: Climb out on bow
> 
> Step 2: Release catch (marked by yellow arrow)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Step 3: release second catch (marked by yellow arrow)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Step 4: rotate various pieces into operational positions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can definitely see myself going overboard trying to stow/un-stow this beast.
> 
> --
> aborgman


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## Ictalurus

From the looks of it, you will need an instruction manual to deploy that thing :LOL2: Can't beat the price, should be fine.


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## dixie_boysles

Ictalurus said:


> From the looks of it, you will need an instruction manual to deploy that thing :LOL2: Can't beat the price, should be fine.



No kidding! but once its out i dont need to put it in and out once on the water like I would if I had a bass boat. Once I get a gas motor, that will change though.


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## fender66

Beautifully done! Something to be proud of.


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## ohiolunker

I have to say that this is one of my favorite boats on the site. It has a very clean look to it. Also, I understand what you were going through with this build. I'm getting married soon myself and trying to rehab a 12 footer. It's a fine line you have to walk with building a boat and keeping the fiance happy with wedding planning. Well done sir!


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## dixie_boysles

Thanks!!!! That make me feel even better about the boat...lol. Yeah its a VERY FINE LINE, especailly along with my other hobbies like the fishing and my truck. 

here are pics from this weekend:












Caught this one at a river (not the watershed in the above pics)


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## Walston

Nice Job! My son and I have a 1436 we are looking to modify and I like you design.


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## flatboat

what a transformation ,that really came out good . like the layout . is that an old mariner tm ? those things had some power great job


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## dixie_boysles

flatboat said:


> what a transformation ,that really came out good . like the layout . is that an old mariner tm ? those things had some power great job



Yeah it is and it was free lol. I have been hearing about the power they have. Its only a 28 thrust, so we shall see


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## Express

dixie, very nice work! great inspiration for my build


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## dixie_boysles

Express said:


> dixie, very nice work! great inspiration for my build



Thanks!!!! means alot!


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## FFDOZIER

The boat looks great brother. Hope you are enjoying it.


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## hulzenga

Very nice work man, totally going to copy this idea! I pretty much had this idea figured in my mind, it's just really reassuring to see it done and done properly with a lot of care in each step, I have a 1236 and it's going to be très sexay when done, can't wait!


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## dixie_boysles

Taking it to a tourney Saturday at a watershed about 1 1/2 hours away! Her first tournament!!!


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## fender66

dixie_boysles said:


> Taking it to a tourney Saturday at a watershed about 1 1/2 hours away! Her first tournament!!!



Good luck. Let us know how you do.


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## Froggy

Good luck man!


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## hulzenga

Good luck man!


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## Ictalurus

Dixie

Did you happen to snap a good pic of the capacity plate before you sided the boat? I'd like to see if I can get Bulldog to make a replica for me.


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## dixie_boysles

Shoot I sure didn't man. Sorry!


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## bassackwards

Man, I was looking through your thread and came across the name of your boat. A friend and I had a brainstorming sesh over a few beers a while back and Bass Ackwards is what we came up with if I was to get a boat. I think your project is now officially my inspiration. Now if I could only find a boat around here. Rock on dude :beer:


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## dixie_boysles

bassackwards said:


> Man, I was looking through your thread and came across the name of your boat. A friend and I had a brainstorming sesh over a few beers a while back and Bass Ackwards is what we came up with if I was to get a boat. I think your project is now officially my inspiration. Now if I could only find a boat around here. Rock on dude :beer:



lol, yeah I liked the name too! the boat seems to be a few people's inspirations haha. Im glad everyone likes my boat so good


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## Express

dixie, can you pm me the info on the paint you used? thanks


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## dixie_boysles

Express said:


> dixie, can you pm me the info on the paint you used? thanks



yeah its Parker Coatings Duck Boat Paint in Bay Grey. Alot of people up here have used it. just search Parker Coatings to see others work with it. Also here is the link:

https://www.cabelas.com/waterfowl-blinds-concealment-parker-duck-boat-paint-gallon-7.shtml

I bought mine directly through the company, but for some reason, cannot find their site anymore.


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## Express

"For the sides I used thin 1/8" wood."

did you really use 1/8" plywood for the side panels? 

i am planning on using 1/4" plywood and was worried that would be too thin. but i suppose the resin really strengthened it up huh?


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## dixie_boysles

Express said:


> "For the sides I used thin 1/8" wood."
> 
> did you really use 1/8" plywood for the side panels?
> 
> i am planning on using 1/4" plywood and was worried that would be too thin. but i suppose the resin really strengthened it up huh?



yeah i really did. it has two coats of fiberglass on it though, so its fine. its riveted in place so its not going anywhere either


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## Mpd165

Where did you mount your transducer for the garmin? I have the same unit I'm wanting to install up front,but am not crazy about the idea of mounting it to the TM, since I wouldnt get readings when it's not in the water. My previous unit was mounted at the back, with the transducer mounted on the transom, but I dont want to do that again. I like the idea of having it mounted up front, where I will be fishing.


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## dixie_boysles

The transducer is mounted on the back of the transom like in the instructions. just drill smaller holes than your screws and use plumber's tape on the threads. I havent had a leak there yet!


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## Express

whats up dixie? just a couple more ?'s for ya........where did you get your carpet? what adhesive did you use? thanks


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## dixie_boysles

Express said:


> whats up dixie? just a couple more ?'s for ya........where did you get your carpet? what adhesive did you use? thanks



I got my carpet at Lowes Hardware and the adhesive too. The adhesive I used is contact cement found over in the paint department. comes in a gallon container. works like a champ and its INSTANT stick. once you place carpet on it, there is no repositioning it. pm me if you have any mor questions about how I carpeted mine


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## dixie_boysles

I haz a MAJOR problem. Went fishing on the New River yesterday. Had a decent day fishing (6 boated). Finally got done fishing and was putting the boat on the trailer. i got the boat halfway on the trailer and then winched it the rest of the way up. Pulled the truck up to get boat ready for trailering. I do my usual walkaround of the boat (especially after smacking rocks in the river) and thats when I noticed something.

Apparently, when I winched the boat up the trailer, it broke the weld and was slowly pulling the front of the boat off like the top of a tin can!!! I dont have pics right now, but will get them today after work. Im so upset. Im hoping having it welded back will be strong enough.....

I dont know if its the location of my bow eyelet or what. I even have a backing plate behind the eyelet to help spread the stress out. I know the front of the boat sheet metal seemed kinda thin...bummer

this is an old pic but basically the red straight lines represents where the front has separated along the weld. the curved red line is location of eyelet.
In this build, I do not have an updated pic of where I changed the position of the eyelet to a vertical position and lower


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## Ictalurus

Dixie

:shock: That sucks big time. If it's any help, my Polarkraft 1440 has a piece of 3/4" plywood just about the size of the bow as backing.


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## Ictalurus

Dixie, I went back and looked at your build. Looks like your bow eye was put in horizontal instead of vertical, which may have caused your strap hook to pull up on the eye intsead of sliding up and keeping the force straight.


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## dixie_boysles

I had since fixed it, I will get a pic of it today to show how it is. Im still frustrated though. i mean it broke at the weld, usually the welds are stronger than the material lol.


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## dixie_boysles

dixie_boysles said:


> I had since fixed it, I will get a pic of it today to show how it is. Im still frustrated though. i mean it broke at the weld, usually the welds are stronger than the material lol.



I edited the pic to show you where I have the eyelet. I put it there to keep the winch line straight. I even have the eyelet going through a 5/16 thick aluminum plate on the back of the sheetmetal to reinforce it. i cant really put it higher as i wont be able to bolt it due to the front bench being in the way. ( i left it there for support and the foam)


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## dixie_boysles

hope this helps


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## majkowskid

i personally think that the eyelet is WAY too low. with it that low, when you winch it it's putting the stress right where it broke. with it up closer to the top, it puts the force on the sronger pieces of the boat, and distributes the force down the side rails better. you had a really nice bow piece replaced on the front, and i'd personally mount it as close to that as possible. this way, when you winch it it would be putting the force on the tubular aluminum that's welded up there. 

i literally just had this happen on the jet jon i'm building. i float tested it this weekend, and when i was winching up the boat, i heard what sounded like the fiberglass cracking (it's a fiberglass jon boat). i was on a boat ramp with a VERY steep incline, and i was winching it up about a 30 degree angle. luckily, it was the wood reinforcement cracking inside, not the fiberglass. i relocated the u bolt up high on the bow, and it worked much better.


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## c-ramey

Where did you get the carpet from? Has it held up ok? What width did you get?

I'm getting ready to do mine.

Thanks.


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