# Universal Kill Switch Installation



## Truckmechanic (Apr 1, 2010)

Okay, the thread the other day about kill switches got me thinking and I bought one for mine. It is a Universal switch that will be used on a 86 Evinrude 9.9. Here is the switch I went with.

https://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(mirjp5vlm15jjijscwz0c455)/ProductDetails.aspx?SKU=8093056

My question is that it has four prongs on the bottom, Two for the coil and two for the Magneto. My plan was just to splice into the 2 wires from the motors shut off button and run one to each post. Will it still work without having all four posts attached to wiring?


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## russ010 (Apr 1, 2010)

I can't help ya here man... I don't work inside marine engines


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## crazymanme2 (Apr 1, 2010)

Yes,you only need 2.Check with an ohm meter to see which 2 you need.It will work just like your kill switch that is on your motor.


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## cajuncook1 (Apr 3, 2010)

Hope this helps ya out!

https://www.duckworksmagazine.com/05/columns/max/3/free.cfm (installation of universal kill switch)

https://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=377021&highlight=universal+kill+switch

Good luck


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## Truckmechanic (Apr 25, 2010)

I installed the switch today. I spliced into my wiring for the factory switch but it won't kill the motor. The factory switch does though. Any ideas of what I have done wrong.


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## Codeman (Apr 25, 2010)

It has to go back to ground to kill it if its a magneto system and since it has a button I am guessing it does. You'll need to splice into both sides of the button wires not just the one. ONe side of the button will go to ground and the other the motor side wire. Hope I explained what I am trying to say well enough.


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## Truckmechanic (Apr 25, 2010)

I am splicedinto both wires. Does anyone know if the switches on this motor is normly open or closed?I may tro another style switch.


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## Codeman (Apr 25, 2010)

Does your new universal kill switch have 4 poles? If it does switch them I just ran into this problem with mine. They were actually mark backwards to what I thought it should have been. Ohm meter is really the only way to tell when it it is open or closed.


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## Truckmechanic (Apr 26, 2010)

Codeman said:


> Does your new universal kill switch have 4 poles? If it does switch them I just ran into this problem with mine. They were actually mark backwards to what I thought it should have been. Ohm meter is really the only way to tell when it it is open or closed.




Yea, it has 4 poles. I tried switching them to the poles and that was unused and it still wouldn't kill the motor. I will have to go out and tinker with it some. thanks for the help. Do you have a picture of you switch?


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## Truckmechanic (Apr 26, 2010)

I looked through you build thread and the top of the switch looks just like mine. Do you remember if you wired it with just 2 wires and where they went


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## Codeman (Apr 26, 2010)

Yes one of mine is connected to ground and the other is tied in with the kill side of my ignition switch. Trace the wires on your kill button to the motor and see where they terminate and we can go from there. If you could find a wiring diagram for your motor it would be VERY helpful.


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## Truckmechanic (May 1, 2010)

I don;t have any pics but I looked at it and one wire goes straight to ground on the block and the other wire goes into a plug for a wiring harness the the wires from the other side of the plug goes to the magneto??..It is under the flywheel.


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## longjohn119 (May 3, 2010)

Truckmechanic said:


> I am splicedinto both wires. Does anyone know if the switches on this motor is normly open or closed?I may tro another style switch.



It's a normally open switch, when the lanyard pulls loose it closes the switch and shorts the hot side of the magneto to ground killing the spark and hence the motor. Are the terminals numbered? If so I might be able to look it up and tell you which two you need. Splicing into the old kill switch wires is just fine and probably preferred so you don't have to pull the flywheel and route new wires so they don't get caught, it's already done for you so take advantage of it as long as the wires are in good shape. Probably the most important thing is to make good splices and cover them with heatshrink which will not only helps seal the connection from moisture but also adds mechanical strength. Butt crimps should work OK but if you have any soldering skills use them, I'd shy away from 'twist locks/wire nuts' which are terrible in a high moisture application especially if you don't go to the trouble off securing them upright so they can drain and making proper drip loops in the wiring


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