# 1989 Johnson 48 SPL manual tilt seal leaking



## BillPlayfoot (Nov 27, 2017)

My 1989 Johnson 48 SPL has a manual tilt assist. The seal around the shaft is leaking. Is it possible to replace the seal?


----------



## Pappy (Nov 27, 2017)

The "assist" part of that system means that the unit is pressurized. Once failed it is recommended you replace rather than try and repair.


----------



## Stumpalump (Nov 27, 2017)

I have one on my 48. Mine works after adjusting but they have a track record that is not great. The biggest problem is fixed by adjusting the cable but beyond that you are looking at a very costly replacement if you can find the part. I would not trust a used one. If yours is not releasing well and hard to lift then maybe you can live with a small leak and get it working again buy adjusting the cable housing longer. If it's beyond that I'd look at removing the heavy unit to save weight and install an aftermarket trim unit. Great motor and trim would make it eceptional.


----------



## BillPlayfoot (Nov 27, 2017)

Thanks for the replies.
I will try an online search for a replacement unit.
Wonder if I could fit a power trim/tilt unit for about the same cost as the manual unit. Something to think about.


----------



## Pappy (Nov 27, 2017)

You can certainly replace the tilt assist with a power trim system of the same vintage. Just do a bench test or verify the unit works and does not leak. Those do have seal kits available for the single ram.


----------



## BillPlayfoot (Nov 28, 2017)

After Christmas I will look for a power unit
Thanks


----------



## Hanr3 (Nov 28, 2017)

I went through this exercise for my 1995 Evinrude 40hp. Mine has tilt assist, but didn't have the lever lock system. The tilt assist didn't work. The dilemma is; replace with another tilt assist, replace with another tilt assist that has lever lock, add CMM tilt trim kit, or repower (new or used)?
I found replacement tilt assist pistons/units for roughly $500 in "like new condition", guaranteed to work. Ouch!!!
They still don't recommend rebuilding the units and I couldn't find rebuild kits. Plus your still left with manual tilt. 

CMM tilt trim kit is $750. Ouch!!! However no more manually lifting/lowering.

Repower- used 40-60hp motors can be had and I find the more you pay the better the condition. Generally. But your going to start at roughly twice the cost of the CMM kit, and still have an old outboard. 

If you have an electric/hydraulic system now, finding a replacement is an option. However it is still old... Adding electric/hydraulic system to a motor that wasn't configured for it was more work than I wanted to get into on a 20 plus year old motor. It's not a straight forward conversion. Makes the CMM kit look real good, affordable and simple to add.

In the end, my decision was to repower and sell the 40hp.

I was going to buy a buddies 50hp of the same vintage. The 50hp has a working piston and lever lock system. Well, that was the plan until he blew up the motor. I ended up with the piston and lever lock system for free. Had to swap the tiller handle to attach the lever lock system. But it works and I am no longer bouncing props and my skeg off the ramp.

Just fuel for thought. Happy hunting and let us know how it turns out.


----------



## Pappy (Nov 29, 2017)

It is certainly NOT a lot of work to go from the tilt assist to a power trim unit. The unit mounts in the same holes, electrical/relay box has to be mounted on the powerhead (already a place designated for it) and harness has to be run from the engine to the dash or the control box. 
No big deal. 

With the aftermarket there is probably more work to get it mounted and the electrical system mounted and run. Think about it. The engine has to come off and new holes drilled, re-mount the engine, the relay boxes have to be mounted somewhere in the boat. Power has to be run to them. Boat harness has to be hooked up and run to the dash and the dash has to be drilled to accept it. 

The aftermarket unit is a fine unit, don't get me wrong. The OP can certainly go whatever route he feels like taking. 

I will say again, if you (anyone) are not really sure about what you are talking about then why possibly influence someone with incorrect information.?


----------



## Stumpalump (Nov 29, 2017)

I've converted two of them. A 60hp and the 48. Basically same identical motors. The 60 got a used factory trim. It was quite simple to install. I did not have to pull the motor on that one. I was lucky to get the harness and throttle parts for the trim switch. Wound up buying a new trim pump motor but overall it was cheap and easy to convert. The 48 had a model year change. I don't remember what they were but even thou they only made the 48 a few years you need to find the right trim for your year.
Aftermarket ones pop up on Craigslist. I scored an old one for $160 but that was super cheap. The thing I like about it is the additional setback. You can run the motor a little higher and yada yada but the way it turns around docks or near rocks when going slow is amazing. With the motor back it has more turning tourqe so it spins on a dime. So I quess my first choice would be factory trim but if you can score an aftermarket unit cheap enough then don't rule it out either. You do have to pull the motor and need a few inches of slop in your cables to go aftermarket. You save a little weight with aftermarket but the setback moves CG back so it's a wash. Install on aftermarket was stupid simple once the motor was supported by a chain. The wiring was very basic stuff as well.
If all equal on price and availability I'd chose base off any corrosion. Those large steel bolts going into aluminum can be a pain once corrotion sets in. No corrosion on your motor or donor motor and I'd go factory but if your going to break or strip bolts then aftermarket.


----------



## Hanr3 (Dec 4, 2017)

Pappy said:


> It is certainly NOT a lot of work to go from the tilt assist to a power trim unit. The unit mounts in the same holes, electrical/relay box has to be mounted on the powerhead (already a place designated for it) and harness has to be run from the engine to the dash or the control box.
> No big deal.
> 
> With the aftermarket there is probably more work to get it mounted and the electrical system mounted and run. Think about it. The engine has to come off and new holes drilled, re-mount the engine, the relay boxes have to be mounted somewhere in the boat. Power has to be run to them. Boat harness has to be hooked up and run to the dash and the dash has to be drilled to accept it.
> ...



I said, It was more work than I wanted to get into. I didn't say anything about how easy or hard it was to install.


----------



## Stumpalump (Dec 5, 2017)

Nobody responds directly to anybody. You respond to the World Wide Web for anybody out there with any bit of curiosity or desire on the topic. I don't get upset when an expert on here explains boats 101 to me because they are responding to a topic that a hundred may be reading. In fact it's appreciated that they take their time to add any info in a thread. Yes at times it reads like they think I'm an idiot or new to boats but they are responding to the world and not just me. It's all good because thats how the web increased everybody's knowledge base and makes everybody grow. I know...It's tuff on your inner "cupcake" but suck it up and be thankful people post.


----------



## BillPlayfoot (Dec 6, 2017)

I'm not really interested in an aftermarket unit. Next year I'll start looking for a factory unit.

Thanks for all the replies


----------

