# 1980 35hp Evinrude Motor Mods?



## mjw210

I'm doing a complete rebuild of this motor. E35ELCSM 
I'm getting it bored and oversized pistons. I've already sanded down the cast lines on the intake manifold and the intake side of the crankcase. I have a 16' Lund deep V-hull from the 80's. Refinished everything and converted to remote steering.
Is there anything else I can do to crank out a little more hp without making it unreliable.

Thanks,
Mike


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## Johny25

A set of boyesen reeds may help with throttle response. Shaving the head will give you better compression. Putting a thinner head gasket on will also increase compression. I have also read in the past that people have re-worked the head, cleaning it up and porting it out due to the rather crude design of older 31.8 cube block and head. 

There is a racing forum that I used to read a lot of good info on for tweaking the 31.8 ci OMC block but I cannot remember what it was #-o I will find it in my computer later today and post the link to it.


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## mjw210

Any idea how much material can be removed? I could easily fly cut some material off the head. I have access to a machine shop I just wasn't comfortable doing the cylinder boring. Might look into the reeds if they still make parts for this old motor...


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## mjw210

https://s1261.photobucket.com/albums/ii585/mjw210/

Pics of my rebuild progress and some of my old boat.


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## Johny25

Wow great slide show and awesome project! First time I have seen someone post pics of inside the crank case, those pics are going to be handy to others also. Love the Lund too, my favorite tin :mrgreen: .

So were the cylinder walls scored? I see your compression was really low to start. What is your goals with this project, I mean are you looking to hit 35-40mph? A larger motor may be an easier option if you are looking for lots of speed. 

I can't remember off hand how much to shave off the head. This 31.8ci block is raced in the 25hp class by a lot of people. Being that the 25 and 35hp have the same block. Your motor in 1980 was only putting out about 30hp due to it being rated at the flywheel though.

How much have you researched on this OMC block you got? The parts are very easy to find so you will never have an issue getting any part you need. I will give you plenty of dealers to order from if you want. I have a million questions to ask and more info to give but I have to get my kids fed.


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## jasper60103

Hey, Mike.
Welcome aboard and glad you met Johny25.
He'll help you get that motor screaming.


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## mjw210

Thanks for the compliments! I was only able to hit like 21 mph before but, I think the motor was on its way out at that point. I really don't know what to expect for performance out of this motor. I do have access to mills at work so I could flycut a few thousandths off the cylinder head. I cleaned up all of the motor pieces (other than the block) and sanded all the gasket surfaces flat. There isn't a lot of material that could be shaved off of on the cylinder head. I'm not sure how close the pistons will come to that area so, I might just leave that alone. I went to college for auto service and ended up being a maintenance mechanic. I pretty much taught myself how to use the mills and lathe at work. I'm not allowed to play around with the CNC machines though... I put a carb kit in tonight and preped all that stuff for reassembly. 

For polishing the cylinder head and intake manifold should I just use like fine scotch brite pad? I already sanded all the cast lines down. Just not sure how much of a polish I should do on it...

Also, while I have it apart if there's any pictures you'd like me to take I'd be happy to take more for any how to's or just to have as a reference. Those were all with my cell phone so, for better definition I could use my Canon Rebel. And yes the top cylinder was scored but, I'm having both bored out. Going with the Wiseco oversized piston kits. I'm going to call the shop tomorrow and find out some more details of piston size and when it will be done. I didn't expect to be ready for reassembly this fast. I'm going to paint it the original paint colors (thanks to a retired co-worker of mine who was a boat mechanic up until 1980) He has tons of outboards at his place! Never knew there was a 1/2hp motor before until I visited him the other day for advice. And everything is restored already. Just amazing to see all of that history. He convinced me that going with the factory colors would help the resale value if I ever sold it. I was going to paint it go with my boat... 

On a side note I do have a SS prop already. I forgot what pitch it was but, I will look at it tomorrow and let you know. I think I got a more of a midrange one. 

I would be interested in hearing any advice or where to get parts and etc... I would like to get as much performance as I can but, keep it reliable. Should I throw a K&N filter on it? :lol: I pretty much have to work on this at night since I watch my boys while my wifes at work during the day. Gotta love the opposite shifts....  Only benefit of it is not paying day care. (almost 3 year old and an almost 2 year old) Definately fun though. Can't wait until I can take them on hunting trips and other fun stuff with me.

-Mike


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## Johny25

How ironic..... I have 2 boys, ages 6 and 3 but soon to be 7 and 4, and my wife works a second shift as a nurse so I always have my boys in the evenings and have to either wait until the wife gets home late at night or I have to wait for weekends to do more complicated things. This year I have finally been able to do more being that the youngest is almost 4. I don't believe in daycare...... not even if it means I get to play with boats, motors and fish more. And that is saying something from me :lol: 

As for the cylinder head...... There is not much that you can shave and I have read articles where the pistons end up smacking into the head so you may just want to leave that scenario alone. Especially if you are looking to have a reliable motor. 

For the intake manifold..... you can port the intake a little by putting the gasket on it to see if there is any that can be removed allowing better air flow. I wouldn't polish the inside any better than say 150 or 120 grit sand paper, you want some turbulence to allow the fuel to break up or atomize when going through. 

As for polishing the head.... I wouldn't mess with the intake part of the head because of the possibility of causing poor fuel atomization, but if you can get in there to polish the exhaust ports then I would do that. 

I have always wanted to make a custom tuned exhaust for my 88' 30hp johnson. I did a modification to my 9.9 a few years ago which included putting the 15hp tuned exhaust on it. Then when I removed my 30hp powerhead I noticed it had a very similar square exhaust as my 9.9 had, which made me wonder how much I would gain if I had the equipment to make a round style tuned exhaust for my 30? Reportedly it added 1.5hp to the 9.9 mod I did.

Now there is also the ability to change the size of the jets in your carburetor, but this can be a tricky thing to get correct. And I haven't yet figured out where to get just the jets from. But this requires a lot of putting them in, testing and pulling them out until you get the desired performance. I have thought about actually putting a totally different and larger carburetor on my motor to see if I could get a few more HP but......... I run out of time and money to do these ideas usually lol. And the wife only has so much patience for my motor mayhem. 

You can never take to many pictures, for your own reference and possibly others in the future. I have hundreds on my computer and try to remember to snap pics when I am tinkering on my motor so as to be able to explain to others better when I can. 

21 mph most surely had something to do with low compression. You should be able to easily hit 25mph and possibly 30. And as for the prop, when you get your motor up and running and you get a tach on the motor we can get you dialed in on the best prop that will give you top performance. I am running a 14 pitch SS on mine and I get 28 to 31mph depending on how much weight I have in my 14' boat.

Ok well I rambled on enough for now...... sorry for the long message


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## mjw210

I looked at that boyesen reed site and I wasn't 100% sure I put in the correct engine info. Because thephotos of the reeds didn't look similar to what I have. Would my motor be a type "except A"? The machine shop hasn't done anything yet! I was like wtf I'm ready for reassembly.

Here's the link to the reeds that I think are the right ones. https://boyesen.com/power-reeds-196.html

I added new pictures of my port matched intake to the carb gasket. Tapered the edge and smoothed everything out with a red scotch brite pad. 

https://i1261.photobucket.com/albums/ii585/mjw210/D9E7B0D6-orig.jpg
https://i1261.photobucket.com/albums/ii585/mjw210/87404F4D-orig.jpg
https://i1261.photobucket.com/albums/ii585/mjw210/2C0A64F3-orig.jpg


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## mjw210

Got any specs on an exhaust setup? I can aluminum weld and can make a flange easy enough on a mill. 

Yeah I love spending time with my kids too. I'm going to be sad when they're both in school and I'm going to hardly see them... It's funny because I ramble on too. 

Going to pick up another project this Saturday for free! Craftsman rider/bagger that just needs a hub on the mower deck replaced. It's probably 5 years old or less. Guess when you own a trucking company you don't fix things... Oh well I will gladly fix it and use it or sell it. My yard in town isn't that big but, what the heck... if you have it you might as well use it.

Have you guys installed those reed plates? I almost want to try the motor without any mods that I didn't do just to see how much power it has... I don't have a tachometer but, wouldn't mind installing one since I guess I'll be waiting on the machine shop for probably another week... I'm also waiting on my omc service manual as well... any idea what wires I would need to tap into for hooking up a tach?


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## Johny25

I think they just have the wrong picture up on there website..... here is an ebay link with the same model number 128 reeds that you need in the flower style 8 pedal. Those ones on Boyesen website look like my 15hp johny finger pedals. I have not installed these reeds before so I cannot guarantee they will do a lot. Although I do know most all the racing guys run them to help holeshot because they open easier and faster. Also if they ever bust off and fly into your crank case they will not damage your engine like metal reeds will. I plan on putting some in this winter when I swap my powerhead with my other 30hp block that has much better compression. You may just want to run it fairly stock like you said to see if adding mods like this actually help. It is hard to find people willing to post actual gains before and after.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/JOHNSON-BOYESEN-REED-VALVES-B128-18-35-HP-OUTBOARD-/400148637577?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item5d2ab7a789&vxp=mtr

Nice work on that intake =D> Do you have the part number on that intake? It almost looks like the smaller intakes that was put on the post 1985 25hp and the 35hp up to 1983. In 1984 they started putting a larger volume intake manifold on the 35's and then the 30hp in 85 got it also, allowing more air flow. The 35 became the 30hp in 85 due to prop rated HP instead of flywheel. I had a really good post on this mod with pictures but cannot find it right now #-o. But here is a few pictures of the two side by side and the differences.

The larger post 83' 0396790 in front and the smaller pre 84' 0396788 in the back



Here is the 0396788 (small intake) measuring 5 and 1/16" across and also has a shallower bowl and thicker area between the 2" and 3" mark on the tape as you can see



And the larger volume 0396790 intake with a measurement of approx 5 and 5/16" across with a deeper bowl and narrower neck between the 2" and 3" mark on the tape.



If it is 0396788 it is the smaller intake that was used until 1983 on the 35's and in 1984 the larger intake was introduced and those part numbers are 0391054 or 0395626 and superceeded/replaced by 0396790 and that is the one you want. You could reem out yours if you want but it would be much easier to buy one of the others. A lot of work to get it correct without going through the intake wall on accident. I put the pics side by side and I am sure you have the 0396788 intake. The bigger one is a must if you are looking to gain HP and performance. Much better air flow and will bolt right on with no problems.

I hope all this made sense.....it is late and I am tired :lol:


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## Johny25

Oh now I remember why I advised people to buy one instead of reaming or porting there old one. I didn't take a pic of this when I had them off together but the larger intake is taller......meaning if you lay them both down flat with the carb hole facing up, side by side the 0396790 is fuzz more than an 1/8" taller (if memory serves me on the measurement lol) than the 0396788. So there is no way to ever ream the smaller one to match the air flow of the larger intake. It is just not possible with the smaller casting of the 0396788 mold.


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## Johny25

Ok I couldn't sleep because I forgot to talk about the exhaust tube :lol:. This is all theory now so bare with me. The exhaust tube/horn you and I have is the square style. All the 20/25/30/35's came with this style. Now I know that the 9.9 johnsons (almost all of them) came with the same style square exhaust (see pic). The 15's that had the same block as the 9.9's had different exhaust tubes (and carb), also known as a tuned exhaust that added another 1.5hp. And I believe (in theory) that if you made a similar tuned exhaust to fit on the 20/25/30/35's it should achieve the same principle. 

Here is a pic of the 9.9 square style similar to ours next to the tuned 15hp round style.



This is just another one of my theories that may be way more work than it is worth. But it was just another thing I have thought about over the past year that could increase HP by allowing better exhaust flow and not sacrificing engine longevity. When I get me an aluminum welder some day I may make one to test my theory. I mean someone has to try these crazy ideas I come up with late at night right :lol:


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## mjw210

Thanks for the link for the reed valves. I guess I will start looking for another intake housing. :lol:


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## jasper60103

Funny. That makes 3 of us that have wives working opposite shifts. We did it when our kids were smaller too. 

Great thread. Keep it coming.


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## Johny25

You can get it new online from several places like these. Boats.net is usually the cheapest parts supplier but may take a few more days to get to you if your on the west coast. And it is $27 cheaper through boats.net matter of fact.
https://www.boats.net/parts/search/BRP/JOHNSON/1986/J30TECDM/INTAKE%20MANIFOLD/parts.html
https://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1986&hp=30&model=E30TELCDM&manufacturer=Evinrude&section=Intake+Manifold

I bought mine off of ebay for $40 I believe. You just have to be sure it is the correct one that your purchasing. I just did a quick look and there isn't any on ebay at the moment even though there are 2 on there that claim to be what you would want. If the part number is not one of the three I gave you then do not buy it no matter what the seller advertises. Lots of misrepresented parts on ebay unfortunately.

Hey Jasper  How is the prop situation coming?


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## mjw210

I have a question for you guys. The motor is the long shaft one. Would it make a big difference converting it to a short shaft? I do have a riser to raise it up since my boat was probably made for a short shaft. I think I'll just have to watch ebay for the intake manifold you suggested. Just can't justify $120 for an 1/8" difference. Maybe when I find a cheap one I'll change that and the reeds.


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## Johny25

You may get less flex with a short shaft but it will cost you a few bucks to get the short exhaust housing and drive shaft. Probably a couple hundred bucks. That drive shaft runs $100 easily usually.

Money keeps me from going to crazy also. Well that and the wife :lol: I have to pick and choose my mods since I don't have an unlimited budget or otherwise I would have gotten a $1000 racing gearcase by now. A 1.50:1 gearcase would make a huge difference in top speed! My children's needs come first though, then the motor and boat, then the wife :mrgreen:


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## mjw210

Hey guys just was wondering about this reverse lock lever I ran across. Will this fit the E35ELCSM motor I have?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Johnson-Evinrude-OMC-outboard-10-15-25-35-hp-Link-Reverse-Lock-Lever-322949-Oem-/250408308140?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item3a4d7f8dac&vxp=mtr

I almost forgot that the motor flips up while in reverse. It doesn't have a tilt pin just a threaded rod with nuts on each end. I've tried to find the right pin or whatever is suppose to be there but, with no success. 

I've only had this motor for a few years and only used it a handfull of times. I used to have a 25hp evinrude tiller that had a pin that kept the motor in place.


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## mjw210

I guess there's more than one part I would need to fix the problem. Not sure why any of the previous owners would have removed it...

https://shop2.evinrude.com/Index.aspx?s1=1l7gfd4m0um0em6sc12s84q2f3&catalog_id=0&siteid=1


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## Johny25

Yes that is the correct reverse tilt lock part for your motor. And your second post confused me because you didn't specify what other parts you are missing. And the link just went to evinrudeshop.com?

Here is the thrust pin you need...... Part #24 and you may need part #75 also?
https://www.boats.net/parts/search/BRP/EVINRUDE/1980/E35TLESM/EXHAUST%20HOUSING%20-%2035/parts.html


Boats.net is usually the cheapest part vendor but I buy from Marine engine.com sometimes when I need a part fast because they ship out of Seattle.


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## jasper60103

Johny25 said:


> ...
> 
> Hey Jasper  How is the prop situation coming?



Hey, Johny.
Yea, I haven't tried the other prop yet.
I did check my setup and the motor cav plate
is 7/8" below the boat.
So, I guess it could be raised a little.

edit: Oh, I checked my compression and its a 120# on both cylinders.
So, I'm pretty siked about that!  

Sorry, Mike. Didn't mean to hijack your thread.


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## Johny25

Thats my fault.... I should have PM you Jasper lol....... Which I just did to keep his thread on course. Sorry mjw


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## mjw210

Hey I don't mind because I will still learn something. How far below the boat should the cav plate be? I think mineis flush with the bottom of the boat. Is that too high? Could than cause a cooling issue?


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## Johny25

Flush is great if your prop doesn't cavitate. As long as your water pickup screens are under the water and your prop ain't slipping all is good. The less motor you have in the water equals less drag and better performance. But there is a fine line where it starts going in the other direction if it is too high. The water rises up as it comes off the back of the boat when your running as it try's to replace the water the boat displaced. There is a formula for how much it comes up at what distance and speed but I can't remember what it is. If you can run with your plate flush with the boat then do so. I for some reason can not do this on my boat without prop blowout


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## mjw210

Got a call this morning from the machine shop.... Block is done (0.02" over) but their dealer is out of those pistons. I replied maybe if you didn't take a week and a half to bore the cylinders your supplier wouldn't be out of stock. They checked to see if they had them in stock when I dropped it off and they said they had plenty. He told me it would be 3 weeks to get pistons and I said go fly a kite. I told him I'll find them online and you can fit them and check tolerences when I get them. Well less than 15 minutes I had them on order. Might be here by the end of the week and could reassemble it this weekend.


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## jasper60103

mjw210 said:


> Got a call this morning from the machine shop.... Block is done (0.02" over) but their dealer is out of those pistons. I replied maybe if you didn't take a week and a half to bore the cylinders your supplier wouldn't be out of stock. They checked to see if they had them in stock when I dropped it off and they said they had plenty. He told me it would be 3 weeks to get pistons and I said go fly a kite. I told him I'll find them online and you can fit them and check tolerences when I get them. Well less than 15 minutes I had them on order. Might be here by the end of the week and could reassemble it this weekend.



Bummer. There was a similar situation recently on iboats. The shop over bored this guys engine and later found out pistons that size were unavailable. The shop offered to refund his money. What good would that do him? Fortunately, someone was able to locate some pistons for him.

Anywho, sounds like you got a handle on things. I'll keep my fingers crossed.


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## shawnfish

mjw210 said:


> Hey I don't mind because I will still learn something. How far below the boat should the cav plate be? I think mineis flush with the bottom of the boat. Is that too high? Could than cause a cooling issue?



some boat/motor combos will allow you to even run with the plate an inch or so above the hull, mine being one of them. i added a peice of aluminum square stock(solid) about a foot long making my plate an inch and 3/8 above the hull. mechanic at my marina told me some can be above the hull to to get a slight performance increase, seemed like it made me plane a bit quicker but thats about all i noticed...


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## mjw210

I have a question about doing the water pump... It says to use an adhesive and a gasket sealer in the instructions. I have the Permatex aviation stuff in a canister and OMC Gel Seal II. What should I use? I forgot about the water pump install. But, it won't take long to do that since everythings apart. Just want to be certain I use the correct stuff.


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## jasper60103

mjw210 said:


> I have a question about doing the water pump... It says to use an adhesive and a gasket sealer in the instructions. I have the Permatex aviation stuff in a canister and OMC Gel Seal II. What should I use? I forgot about the water pump install. But, it won't take long to do that since everythings apart. Just want to be certain I use the correct stuff.



Yea, I've used the permatex aviation sealer on water pumps and it seems to work fine.


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## mjw210

I was just confused because it mentioned using a gasket adhesive and also a sealer.


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## mjw210

Well I got the pistons and block back. Going to polish the exhaust ports and re-wash the block. My kids wore me out today... I ran into an issue though. I got the retaining ring off the crankshaft but the bearing is stuck! What's the point of the retaining ring if the bearing is pressed on?!? I did however find my electrical pin tool and got the new harness hooked up. The new evinrude paint is beautiful! Too bad I only have the water inlet screens painted lol.


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## mjw210

Well that was enough for tonight... Polished the exhaust ports and sanded down the cast lines on the exhaust part of the block. Prepped the lower unit to be painted. Tried getting the bearing off the crackshaft with no luck again...


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## Lil' Blue Rude

Don't buy boyseens. They say they fray quick and don't seal the best. Buy some Chris Carson reeds great reed great guy. 
The exaust wouldn't need to be round. It could be sqaure. The big diffrence between the 9.9 and the 15 is the 15 tapers out at the end. Thats the tuned part of the exhaust. Sqaure or round just as long as it flares. You'll have to play with the length and size at the end. Shorter normally has topend where longer has more bottom end. If you build an exhaust you'll need to rejet the carb or risk leaning the motor out to much.
You want the intake as smooth as possible. Not meaning polsihed but you want no edges to slow down air flow. Heard of guys bending the reeds stops open and gaining rpms but on if your running fiber reeds just in case one breaks it will get chewed up and spit out unlike a broken steel reed. The exaust side can be polished to a mirror.


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## mjw210

Thanks for the tips! I just read in the service manual you need a puller for the lower crank bearing. Looks like I will be borrowing the right one.


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## Johny25

Sorry, been fishing a lot lately  ...... interesting comment on the boyesen reeds, I will have to look into the Carson reeds also and see what the hype is about. Gives me something else to research before doing my overhaul this winter. 

I believe the round exhaust will be better for air flow than the square even if both are tapered to the same specs. Just my opinion since I do not have a laboratory to test this theory.....but makes sense to me. It may be harder to fit a round pipe in the squarish style exhaust housing though?


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## mjw210

Well everything is coming along well. Powerhead is assembled and painted. I just took the rest of the motor off the transom to paint it and figure out what reverse lock stuff I'm missing. Turns out I'm missin everything! If I added everything up correctly it will be just over $130 for the reverse locking parts! Anyone know of a junkyard that might have what I need? 

Speaking of paint.... factory stuff looks amazing! Would you recommend putting a clear coat on? Decals are on there way!


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## Johny25

Yes clear coat is a must to help protect your paint job. I have even put marine spar on my motor's before. But the spar will yellow it a little so stick with the clear.

I know there are marine salvage yards but I am not familiar with where they are. Not anywhere near me I know....lol. Those reverse lock parts are expensive I know.


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## mjw210

Is there a paticular clear coat that holds up better to the heat and water exposure? I'm in freshwater only. Would you even clear coat the powerhead? I just cleaned up the last part tonight at work. Tomorrow I will paint it. I should look for some clear coat tomorrow as well.


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## Johny25

I have never cleared the powerdhead and I suspect it wouldn't last given the temps that it would receive. I think auto clear coat would be fine. I know the spar varnish I got was heat resistant and water resistant, that is why I went with that. But like I said it yellowed my oyster white paint job a little even though it is hard to see in the pics or from 10ft away for that matter. Only up close can you see the yellowing. It has held up very well.


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## jasper60103

mjw210 said:


> ... Anyone know of a junkyard that might have what I need?
> 
> ...




I would check the salvage yards posted on iBoats.
I heard good things about timsoutboards and they're in Minnesota and deliver.

https://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=438822


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## mjw210

https://stores.nextag.com/store/4798097/product/949443327/McCloskey-Man-O-War

Is it something like this? Was yours in a spray can? I do have some auto clear coat already but, I want to make sure it's going to last and look nice after being heated and in the water.

I emailed tcoutboards since they're somewhat local. Hopefully they have the parts I need to be able to go backwards without the motor flipping up lol! How embarassing...


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## Johny25

Yep that is the stuff I used in a can.... I have the green can though, which is satin finish I believe. It says "for wood and other surfaces" on the back of the can. If you have auto clear already then I would just go with that. I believe it will last just as long and is just as good as the spar (maybe even better?).

Tie a rope or ratchet strap around your exhaust housing back to your transom pin/slots to keep the motor from lifting up until you get the parts. Otherwise you may crash your boat when landing at the dock when you throw it into reverse and the motor fly's up and the boat just continues going forward until it smashes the dock #-o


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## shawnfish

PM me, i know a place that most likely has any part you need(used)..ive dealt with them and their parts are in great if not like new condition and very cheap compared to new...


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## mjw210

Alright guys I'm hung up... Is there a gasket that I'm missing in between the lower unit and exhaust housing?

https://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1980&hp=35&model=E35ELCSM&manufacturer=Evinrude&section=Gearcase+-+35

Thanks again Shawn for helping me find the parts I'm missing. I really appreciate your help!


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## Johny25

Nope no gasket needed there. I sand mine down with a block sander 220 grit just so it is a clean mate when I put it back together.


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## mjw210

Awesome! Maybe. I will go back outside after the movie we're watching. Would it hurt anything to put the gel seal II on since its a metal to metal sealer.


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## Johny25

It doesn't hurt it but it will be a mess to clean off next time you drop the lower. I have used marine grade silicone on mine before and then the next time I took it off I thought "wish I wouldn't have done that" :lol:


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## mjw210

Thought I would give you guys a visual update on how things are going. I uploaded a lot more pictures of the rebuilding/assembly process on my photobucket. I have the lower unit on now and already sprayed the lower cowl, exhaust housing, brackets, and lower unit with clear coat. I didn't get the powerhead put on but that shouldn't take long. I forgot to add a decal on the bottom of the exhaust housing so I have to respray the clear coat which isn't a big deal but, I didn't want to make anymore mistakes tonight I called it quits. 

https://s1261.photobucket.com/albums/ii585/mjw210/

Thanks again Shawn for getting a me a good deal on the reverse locking assembly! Can't wait to get it in the mail. I might have just enough paint. I wish I would have ordered 5 cans of Evinrude paint like my instinct was telling me but, I did 4. Now I will have enough for the reverse assembly but not the top of the hood/upper cowl. Lesson learned 8) Oh well I plan on finishing the hood in the winter since I want to bondo and sand it nice and smooth.


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## shawnfish

mjw210 said:


> Thought I would give you guys a visual update on how things are going. I uploaded a lot more pictures of the rebuilding/assembly process on my photobucket. I have the lower unit on now and already sprayed the lower cowl, exhaust housing, brackets, and lower unit with clear coat. I didn't get the powerhead put on but that shouldn't take long. I forgot to add a decal on the bottom of the exhaust housing so I have to respray the clear coat which isn't a big deal but, I didn't want to make anymore mistakes tonight I called it quits.
> 
> https://s1261.photobucket.com/albums/ii585/mjw210/
> 
> Thanks again Shawn for getting a me a good deal on the reverse locking assembly! Can't wait to get it in the mail. I might have just enough paint. I wish I would have ordered 5 cans of Evinrude paint like my instinct was telling me but, I did 4. Now I will have enough for the reverse assembly but not the top of the hood/upper cowl. Lesson learned 8) Oh well I plan on finishing the hood in the winter since I want to bondo and sand it nice and smooth.




no problem mike, happy to help. that motor is looking sweet!!! was your flywheel hard as hell to get off? just wondering cuz ive been at mine for days with no luck! lol! and theyre the same motors for the most part J25RCSA


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## jasper60103

mjw210 said:


> Thought I would give you guys a visual update on how things are going. I uploaded a lot more pictures of the rebuilding/assembly process on my photobucket. I have the lower unit on now and already sprayed the lower cowl, exhaust housing, brackets, and lower unit with clear coat. I didn't get the powerhead put on but that shouldn't take long. I forgot to add a decal on the bottom of the exhaust housing so I have to respray the clear coat which isn't a big deal but, I didn't want to make anymore mistakes tonight I called it quits.
> 
> https://s1261.photobucket.com/albums/ii585/mjw210/
> 
> Thanks again Shawn for getting a me a good deal on the reverse locking assembly! Can't wait to get it in the mail. I might have just enough paint. I wish I would have ordered 5 cans of Evinrude paint like my instinct was telling me but, I did 4. Now I will have enough for the reverse assembly but not the top of the hood/upper cowl. Lesson learned 8) Oh well I plan on finishing the hood in the winter since I want to bondo and sand it nice and smooth.



She's looking sharp, Mike.
Great job! =D> 
Thanks for sharing.


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## mjw210

Yes Shawn that thing scared me big time! I had a puller on it with some tension and just sprayed it down with penetrating oil. Left it alone with tension on it and came back awhile later 30 to 60 minutes. Tried a little more tension and more spray. And repeated several more times for mine to pop off. I used a harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller that I bought from Autozone. And a must, use only Grade 8 1/4-20 bolts. If you use anything weaker you run the risk of the breaking since it's a lot of tension on them.


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## shawnfish

mjw210 said:


> Yes Shawn that thing scared me big time! I had a puller on it with some tension and just sprayed it down with penetrating oil. Left it alone with tension on it and came back awhile later 30 to 60 minutes. Tried a little more tension and more spray. And repeated several more times for mine to pop off. I used a harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller that I bought from Autozone. And a must, use only Grade 8 1/4-20 bolts. If you use anything weaker you run the risk of the breaking since it's a lot of tension on them.




ive done the same thing, overnight tension,lube, tapped etc... and nada! lol! i made my puller out of a bearing puller and some handy Mcguyver work and that damm thing does not wanna come off, ive tightened it so much that i cant go no more tighter and its been like that since yesterday around noon....pissin me off because of a 3 dollar peice of plastic it wont start and i have to bank it! wich is like a heroin junky having to use methadone, he still wants the H but but at least he's not sick lol!

oh and sorry man i wont post no more about my flywheel and hijack ur thread... #-o


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## Johny25

Nice slide show  Did you buy a complete rebuild kit mj or did you just buy the parts individually off a website? Can't wait until you get her fired up and running. You will have to run a compression test when your done and post some numbers.


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## mjw210

I bought most off of marineengine.com since I could get Evinrude brand parts. I bought a couple things from iboats.com The paint is from evinrude.com
Just ordered another can of paint and some fogging spray today. I ordered the piston kits from seilermarine.com

I actually have to return a few things since the powerhead gasket kit included some seals and o-rings that weren't listed. I just hope this thing has good compression and doesn't have any issues. I'll keep taking pictures until it's done.


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## Johny25

A lot of gasket kits and carb rebuild kits come with extra O-rings and gaskets because the kits are designed to cover a wide range of motor years and some years have little subtle differences like an O-ring or gasket shape.

Boats.net is one of the best priced parts places. But I use Marine engine a lot also because they ship out of Seattle which is 3 days faster than boats.net.

Was curious how much in parts did you roughly spend on the rebuild? Did you put new wrist pins and all in, or just rings and pistons? 

I would think you should have 120-130 compression readings with an electric start (full charge battery) after the rebuild. And anything above that would be awesome. I am only at 105 with my electric start but I am sure my crank case is leaking out the side, that is why a rebuild or powerhead swap is coming this winter. Got an 85' 30hp powerhead ropestart with 112 in each cylinder that will likely be put on my 88' and then I will fully rebuild the other motor at my leisure.


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## mjw210

I have all my slips still. After everything is returned and finished I will look at them but, I know it's up there... Still way cheaper, more fun, and very educational than buying a new $6k motor. Now I know this thing in and out and it should last a long time. Plus it looks purdy  Sounds like my reverse lock assembly is on its way! Thanks again Shawn for all the help with locating cheaper used parts. I still need to get new spark plugs...

The piston kits from seilermarine.com came with pistons, rings, wrist pins, circlips for $90 per kit. And I needed two since I bored both cylinders just so they'd be the same. $180 for pistons and $170 for cylinder boring. I got all new needle bearings for the wrist pins and connecting rods and they don't give them away cheap. $80 in paint/clear coat. $50 in new decals. $160 for electrical harness and spacer tube (mine was melted). And there's a couple more invoices that is probably another $400 or so total. I know it's over a grand but, I could have cheaped out and just fixed it and left everything else. But, that's not how I like to do things. I like to fix things right and that way I know I won't have to worry about it for a long time. I spent about $200 in cosmetics of the motor so I could have easily fixed it cheaper. I just felt like going the extra mile and take a little pride in it. I didn't have to pay for my boat/trailer/motor (Mom gave it to me since they never used it.) Just about $1500 into the boat refinishing and of course my Hummingbird 597ci fish finder. I know someone at Minnkota so I paid the employee price on that bad boy. $500 for a $1000 unit. That's a no brainer. So after it's all said and done I will have a newly refinished boat and motor for approximately $3000 and I would imagine I it would sell for more than that. I don't plan on selling it though. I want to enjoy it for many years.


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## shawnfish

mjw210 said:


> I have all my slips still. After everything is returned and finished I will look at them but, I know it's up there... Still way cheaper, more fun, and very educational than buying a new $6k motor. Now I know this thing in and out and it should last a long time. Plus it looks purdy  Sounds like my reverse lock assembly is on its way! Thanks again Shawn for all the help with locating cheaper used parts. I still need to get new spark plugs...
> 
> The piston kits from seilermarine.com came with pistons, rings, wrist pins, circlips for $90 per kit. And I needed two since I bored both cylinders just so they'd be the same. $180 for pistons and $170 for cylinder boring. I got all new needle bearings for the wrist pins and connecting rods and they don't give them away cheap. $80 in paint/clear coat. $50 in new decals. $160 for electrical harness and spacer tube (mine was melted). And there's a couple more invoices that is probably another $400 or so total. I know it's over a grand but, I could have cheaped out and just fixed it and left everything else. But, that's not how I like to do things. I like to fix things right and that way I know I won't have to worry about it for a long time. I spent about $200 in cosmetics of the motor so I could have easily fixed it cheaper. I just felt like going the extra mile and take a little pride in it. I didn't have to pay for my boat/trailer/motor (Mom gave it to me since they never used it.) Just about $1500 into the boat refinishing and of course my Hummingbird 597ci fish finder. I know someone at Minnkota so I paid the employee price on that bad boy. $500 for a $1000 unit. That's a no brainer. So after it's all said and done I will have a newly refinished boat and motor for approximately $3000 and I would imagine I it would sell for more than that. I don't plan on selling it though. I want to enjoy it for many years.



thats awesome mike, i gotta say i like your style and rebuilding that motor the way you did it will last forever and yeah you spent some money but saved a ton for sure. its an awesome feeling when you take the time to do something the right way. lets see some pics of your boat. what do ya have? and it was no problem what so ever helping ya with the parts i was more than happy to help ya and now if u need any parts you know where to find them although i dont think you will need them with your rude being basicly brand new!!!! good job man!


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## mjw210

Well guys I have good news and something else that worries me...
Top Cylinder: 113psi
Bottom Cylinder: 113psi
The rebuild is complete other than refinishing the hood. I got fresh gas and oil mix for it. The book says 50:1 for breaking it in. Is that right?

New pics were uploaded to my photo bucket.


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## mjw210

Oh yeah the issue I have is that frost plug near the fuel pump on the side of the block. I took a close up pic of it to show the slight dripping from the plug. Can I just tap it to reseat it? I never touched the plug. And yes I know its not a frost plug... I'm just worried it will get worse and have a big failure.


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## Johny25

113 psi is good considering nothing has been broken in yet  And yes 50:1 is what you should always run....never the 100:1 that the manual or motor sticker says. That was recalled by OMC after they had motor's seizing up. I wouldn't be opposed to running 40:1 for awhile even until she is broke in. 

You should be able to take a blunt rounded flat punch and set that welch plug. One good tap should set it, possibly denting the center of the plug to spread it out.


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## mjw210

Thanks for the tip I was hoping for! I was hoping that's all it was going to be. And thanks for the correct wording on the plug. So, after proper break in it might have higher compression than that? I'm not sure if I should put the whale tail back on or not... Any thoughts on this?


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## Johny25

Yes compression should go up as you break in because the pistons, rings and cylinders aren't mated yet, so 113 is a really good number to start with. After several hours of run time with heat expansion and what not they will be better matted and yield higher compression readings. 

I am not a fan of whale tails at all. Unless the motor is at the perfect height then they do more harm than good. And your boat and motor combo should not require a whale tale. Typically they are put on boats that are really short or boats that are extremely stern heavy. If you really want to plane at a very low speed then invest in trim tabs, a far better solution and they perform way better than a whale tale.


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## Johny25

Do you have proper info on the break in procedure from an OEM manual?


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## mjw210

Yeah I have the actual Service manual $70 :shock: It says it's a 2 hour break in period. And off hand I think it's 1/4 throttle for the first hour. Second is planing throttle and back it off or something like that. I just bead blasted the reverse lock assembly and painted it up. I will be installing it in before I take her out. I will leave the whale tail off and see how it goes. Too bad someone put it on before me because now there's 4 holes on my lower unit. Might have to weld them up someday and repaint it. That way it will be stock


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## Johny25

Well worth $70 bucks if it is the OEM original, and yeah the break in sounds right except I believe it is a 10hr break in period total with the first two being under certain RPMs


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## mjw210

Yep it's an oem original. Either I'm blind or it doesn't mention the 10 hour period. I thought 2 hours was pretty short...


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## Johny25

Here is my OEM manual word for word on break in procedure minus the fuel mix ratio which has been changed by OMC since. It says use 50:1 during 10hr break in and then go to 100:1 but I would recommend 40:1 and then always use 50:1 for the life of the motor as OMC has corrected it to.

Ok here it is..... (remember this is on the boat, not in a barrel or on muffs)

FIRST HOUR: For the first 5-10 minutes, operate engine at fast idle. Frequently check operation of water pump. There should be a steady stream of water from the overboard indicator at the rear starboard corner of the lower engine cover. For remainder of the first hour, engine should be operated at boat planing speed. Do not operate over 3000 RPM, or approximately one-half throttle. Change engine speed every 15 minutes.
Note: With easy-planing boats, bring the boat into planing position with full power then immediately reduce the throttle setting to 3000 RPM (one half throttle). BE SURE boat maintains planing attitude at this throttle setting.

SECOND HOUR:Bring boat onto planing attitude and reduce power to 4000 RPM, or approximately three-quarters throttle, while maintaining planing attitude. At intervals during the second hour, apply full power for periods of one to two minutes, returning to three-quarters throttle for a cooling period. Change engine speed every 15 minutes.

HOURS 3-10: Avoid continuous full throttle operation for extended periods during the next eight hours. Change speeds every 15 minutes.
Note: After 10hrs of break in re-torque cylinder head screws. Re-torque after engine has been run and cylinder head has cooled to the touch.


And that is word for word from my book, I hope it helps  Would hate to see all that hard work go up in smoke


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## mjw210

I'm thinking I'm going to be doing this without the kids... That's a long time in a boat. Hoping I can get this done soon so, I get back on the water with the family.

For some reason my post last night didn't work. I was wondering about hooking up a tachometer. I'm thinking it might be nice to have a tach and volt meter. I know how to wire a volt meter  but, do you guys know what wires I would need to connect to?


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## Johny25

I would DEFINITELY get a tiny tach for around $50 to do this break in and also after the break in to make sure you have the correct prop so your not over turning your brand new power head. I got mine off ebay for like $47. Real easy to hookup, one ground wire and one wire that wraps around your top plug wire.

And yeah I would do this break in without the fam... You want less weight in your boat so it can plane at 3000 RPM. Just make a whole day of it and get it done, go out at day break and you can be done by 2-3pm :mrgreen: . Probably need more than 6 gallons of fuel also


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## Charger25

Not meaning to hijack but I'm following this thread closely. I found this thread by doing some research on some 25 motors I had gotten . This is one of the Better outboard forums I've seen. Great work on the rebuild too ! =D> !


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## mjw210

Ugh... Trying to find a place I can buy a marine tach where they have it instock is driving me nuts!!! Can't find anything within 30 miles that has a tach in stock. We're taking a family trip to Duluth, MN for a few days. So, I'm going to try and find a place that has one! I would think that being next to Lake Superior some boat stores would stock gauges. 

How many RPMs will I require for my motor? I don't want to get a 9000 one if all I need is 7000rpms. Does anyone know off hand any places that I should look or can find one? (Jasper might be the only know who might know that) 

-Mike


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## Johny25

I searched around looking at a lot of Tachs before I purchased a tiny tach Tt2a which seems to be the best portable tach out there for a 2 stroke. And for around $50 bucks on ebay you can't beat it, and they are easy to install (less than 5 min). They read up to 19,999 RPM which you won't need on your motor but hey ya never know what else you may want to put it on lol...... I also searched every marine shop around where I live and none of them carried portable tachs which really surprised me. Had to order mine from the internet. Hell if I lived close enough to you I would mail mine to you and just have you mail it back when the break in was done . But I don't live in Minnesota anymore..... I'm out West now.


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## Johny25

Hey Mike try any of the chainsaw shops around you, they sometimes carry tachs for there chainsaws which are 2 strokes. Would work just the same on your motor.


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## jasper60103

mjw210 said:


> Ugh... Trying to find a place I can buy a marine tach where they have it instock is driving me nuts!!! Can't find anything within 30 miles that has a tach in stock. We're taking a family trip to Duluth, MN for a few days. So, I'm going to try and find a place that has one! I would think that being next to Lake Superior some boat stores would stock gauges.
> 
> How many RPMs will I require for my motor? I don't want to get a 9000 one if all I need is 7000rpms. Does anyone know off hand any places that I should look or can find one? (Jasper might be the only know who might know that)
> 
> -Mike



Hopefully you found one by now. I got mine off ebay. I never knew they were so hard to find? :-?


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## mjw210

I looked and called all over for a marine 2 cylinder tach. No luck. I will check out some small engine repair shops to see if they carry them. Just can't believe it's this hard to find one.


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## Palmer812

Question to anyone who might know. Some Digital Multi Meters have RPM measurement capabilities. I wonder if that would work. Maybe someone here has one and knows.


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## Johny25

There are multi meters that can read RPM by calculating hertz or something like that. But I think it is more for a stationary vehicle at idle such as a car. Not sure how you would do it on an a tiller outboard 2 stroke on the water at WOT?


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## mjw210

Well I found a Moose hour meter/tach for 4 wheelers. You can select between 2 stroke and 4 stroke. Looks really easy to install. It's powered by an internal battery and just has a wire that you wrap around a spark plug wire. I figured I could use it on my 4 wheeler when I'm done since it doesn't have an hour meter or tach either. I'm hoping this Saturday is nice because I think my wife realized I was pretty unhappy about not getting it broke in last weekend when I took 3 days off of work to make sure I had time to do it. The only bad thing is the wire isn't long enough to reach my console. Any idea if this is a special type of wire used on these things? If not I will just put a longer wire on. I suppose I could test it by using the wire it came with and read the rpms and put a longer wire on and see if it's the same or close to the first wire. The only bad thing is you can't reset the hour meter.

On a good note the reverse lock assembly looks and works good now that everything was bead blasted and painted. I had to straighten one pin for it to function properly. I can see why they sent me the stern brackets since everything was stuck in there pretty good. Just sucks that they couldn't have removed the parts since it cost $25 for shipping when the stuff I needed fit in the palm of my hand. Oh well $70 and a little bit of time and paint to make them work and look awesome is still cheaper than buying new parts at twice the price. I tell you what though, those two bigger springs sucked big time to attach! I'm glad I have a ton of tools. I had to use a long set of hose pliers to grip the spring and get it hooked into the stern bracket. Took 30 minutes just to install those two bad boys.

And after 3 weeks of waiting I called Evinrude.com to find out where the heck my can of paint and can of fogger spray was. They looked it up and said it was delivered 2.5 weeks ago. I said it wasn't delivered at my house! After arguing for about 30 minutes they said the would look into this more. I got a call back about an hour later and they said they messed up on the address. They had 2 digits for my address flip flopped. So, I had to go down the road and ask the people if they had a packaged for me delievered a couple weeks ago. They had it and gave it to me. I noticed that they opened it but, didn't say anything. Now I have the paint I need to finish the hood/top cowl for the motor. 

I hope I can get this on the water soon and let you guys know how it runs.


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## Johny25

I don't know much about moose tachs but I don't believe there is any special wires in there from what I know. Just normal wiring that sends info into the little computer on the tach. Tiny tachs can be ordered with extra long wires for this very purpose if you ever need another in the future. They also read 4 stroke motors and can be reset, with an 18month full replacement warranty. You may want to hook it up in your driveway at idle before you cut the wires, then after extending it check again to see if it reads the same. I have had to play with the number of wraps on the plug wire before to get it to read a nice steady RPM without it jumping all around.

I am excited to here how everything goes after the break in


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## jasper60103

Yea, I can't wait to hear or see it run, even in a bucket, LOL. :LOL2: 
Please keep us posted.


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## mjw210

Ugh why does stuff always come up? I got one hour done! Got a question for you guys. When I'm planing about 3000 rpms I'd start hearing a weird noise like the prop was submerged. Hard to explain the sound but kind of like gurgling? I wonder if the pin is in the wrong spot on the stern bracket or if the motor is too high. It doesn't do it at idle or slow cruising.

I might try and get out tonight. Tomorrow I want to finish it. Oh and the reverse lock works great!

Let me post photos of the motor/boat height. And what pin hole I have it in.


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## Johny25

Yeah throw some pics up so we can see where your at.


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## mjw210

https://m1261.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/mjw210/2012-08-18133459.jpg.html?o=3


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## mjw210

Not sure if I did that right but, I uploaded new pics of it to the photobucket album. My father inlaw said it sounds like it could be sucking in turbulant water into the intake screens. He told me I need to have the motor parallel to the transom.


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## Johny25

Wow I just wrote out a long response and it did not go through  Ok I will try again. Your motor looks too high and you may have to go one pin slot inward also? Drop it down an inch at least, if not all the way. I could not blowup the pics so it was hard to get a good look at the angle of the motor in relation to the bottom of the boat. I tried many different heights with my motor on jackplates and could never get it to stop blowing out unless it was all the way down on the transom. You don't want to be getting blowout/cavitation while breaking in your motor. This means there is a light load on the motor when blowout occurs which cannot be good on break in. I tried loading some pics also but I seem to be having an issue on this site tonight #-o


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## mjw210

Ok I will take out riser. I dropped it down 2 pin holes and that's too much. So going back 1 slot. I'll just need someone to help remove the riser. I have just over 2 hours of break in done. I will probably do another hour of half throttle since I'm changing the motor setup again.


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## Johny25

I run mine in the second pin slot like it looks yours was in the pic but I think my transom angle is different than yours? Run a straight board off the bottom of your boat and get the cavitation plate (above the prop) on the same planing angle as the bottom of the boat. Basically you want the cav plate on the same level plane so it isn't digging into the water.


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## mjw210

Well I removed the 2" riser and the bolt that connects the steering linkage to the motor won't clear the transom. Looks like I will make a 1" riser. That motor is a little heavy to handle on your own. Probably would have helped if I didn't forget one of the bolts in the riser into the transom. Holding the motor with one arm and getting the bolt and riser off kind of sucked. But, I got it done. Sucks that I'll have to repeat the process and add in the 1" riser. Do you guys bolt the stern bracket to the transom? I had everything bolted before and I just want to avoid making swiss cheese out of my transom.


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## Johny25

I bolt my motor after I make sure it is at the correct height. So run it a few times and be sure it is going to work before putting more holes in your boat. I ratchet strap the motor when running test heights as a safety measure but that is probably over kill, rather be safe and not have to search for my motor on the bottom of the lake though. I have a few sets of holes in my transom, just be sure to seal them off good so water cannot get in and rot the transom faster.

Also what kind of prop are you running, size and material?


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## mjw210

I have a stainless steel prop that's 10 1/8 x 13
I added more pictures today with the 1" aluminum block in for a riser. I think I have the angle about as good as it can get. I have pics of the angle of the cavatation plate and bottom of the boat. It looks like the cav plate is about 1/2 below the boat.


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## mjw210

Well I finally got back out on the water today for another couple of hours. We have plans tomorrow for another 3 to 4 hours. So, far things are looking good. I hit 23 mph going into the wind at 3/4 throttle. 21mph is the fastest I have gone with that motor before on calm water with no wind. I can't wait until this motor is broken in to see what it can do. With the motor deeper in the water and a little better angle it planes good and has a big rooster tail wake. I didn't put the hydro foil back on but, I'm wondering if the motor had that from the factory? I think the motor works great so far. I'm glad I brought an extra gallon jug of mix fuel in the boat since I almost ran out. Luckly I stopped and checked to see how much fuel I had left and I only had about a gallon left in the tank. 

Filled up the tanks and ready for tomorrow! My sister in law wants to come with tomorrow. My boat has broken down 3 times and she was with everytime. I'm actually affraid to let her come with... 

Should I take any pictures of the wake or anything so you guys can check to make sure it looks right and etc?


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## Johny25

first off tell your sister NO! We can't afford any set backs at this crucial point in the thread :lol: Ok I am joking, tell her to get a vest and hop in  

We all love pics so post away. I am curious as to why you think the whale tale/hydrofoil was from the factory? As I do not think any motor manufacturer has put these on there motors from the factory. I am interested in seeing this rooster tale. Your wake should at the beginning of the throttle opening be kinda of a rooster tale look (maybe a 1-2' tall rooster) but once the boat is at WOT throttle the rooster tale should be like a flat 12-14" wide white water stream, say maybe 4-6" tall. That is referencing to about 10' off the back of the boat. This may also depend on hull design though? 

Have you run a tach on it yet? And 23mph at 3/4 is not a bad reading at all on a 16' tin with that motor. Look to get another 3-5mph with the last 1/4 turn possibly depending on conditions and prop. This is where my motor seems to get up and go, the last 1/4 turn. And that is because the boat should be high in the water at this point with less friction on it making the last 1/4 feel like an extra gear. 

Next time I go out I will try to remember to take a wake pic also at say 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and WOT to compare.


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## mjw210

Wow am I ever sun burned lol! We got about another 2.5 hours on the water today before our babysitters had stuff to do. I was playing around to see how slow I could troll using the motor and it could go as slow as 1.3mph which is way better than before since it had to be at 2.5mph to stay running. I took pictures of the wake and uploaded them to my photobucket. I took the hood off afterwards to inspect the powerhead and it looked good. No discoloration on the paint or anything. The only thing I would be concerned about is I think I have it too rich since there was some fuel drops on the black intake box. So I would assume it's from the carb somewhere but, I didn't pull that box off or lean it up yet.

I had to install a new strap winch today since my strap started to tear in a spot. Old winch was 750lb style and the new one is 1500lb! Yeah this one will work much better. I also replace the hook/latch on the safety chain to attach from the trailer to the keel loop. 

1/4 Throttle: https://i1261.photobucket.com/albums/ii585/mjw210/2012-09-01113200.jpg
1/2 Throttle: https://i1261.photobucket.com/albums/ii585/mjw210/2012-08-31154648.jpg
3/4 Throttle: https://i1261.photobucket.com/albums/ii585/mjw210/2012-09-01113212.jpg
https://i1261.photobucket.com/albums/ii585/mjw210/2012-09-01113850.jpg
https://i1261.photobucket.com/albums/ii585/mjw210/2012-09-01113215.jpg

Now I think my transducer was causing some splashing of its own so I'm not sure if I change the angle of that if it will screw up my readings for the humming bird 797. I might need to adjust it since it was making splashes of its own while going fast. https://i1261.photobucket.com/albums/ii585/mjw210/2012-08-18133450.jpg


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## jasper60103

Yea, it looked like a great day to be on the water.
The sun was a little bright though.
I spent my day standing in front of a Bar-B-Q grill. :?

If you got the carb dialed-in correctly, I wouldn't worry about the air box catching a few drops.
If you can idle that slow w/o it quitting its probably OK.

When you said rooster tail, I had visualized something like in the video below,
but from your pics, it doesn't seem that bad?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Wn-XHhbaLk&feature=related


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## Johny25

Yeah your wake/rooster tale looks just fine and will level out even more at WOT. As for the transducer, I have had similar issues with mine when I first put my 30hp on. I had it setup for my 15hp when on plane which was far different when I put more HP to the boat. Eventually I had to raise the transducer and I cannot get a reading now when I am at WOT. Oh well I say, I haven't ever caught a fish at 28-30mph anyway :lol: 

Did you ever find a tach mj?


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## mjw210

Yeah I have the little digital tach/hour meter. Seems to work ok. Cool that makes me feel a little better about the motor height and angle. So, I probably sven worry about the transducer? I bought a 12V marine accessory outlet today as well as some portable speakers I can mount inside my windsheild. 6.6 hours down 3.4 more t go. So about 8 gallons should do it. I'm using the XD30 red evinrude oil. Everywhere is out! I bought out what this boat shop had left. He said they won't carry it anymore and will only carry the more expensive blue synthetic stuff. I just want to get it broke in without switching oil. The guy wasn't sure if they weren't going to make the red stuff anymore or not.


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## mjw210

I'm not sure if its the transducer splashing or if there's still some cavatation going on. The most I could probably lower it without the steering linkage hitting the transom is about 1/4". My kids had a lot of fun on the boat today since it was calm water. Only 2 hours left.


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## Johny25

I get splash that comes from my cavitation plate at WOT, I tried several heights and had blowout or water splash so I just left it down and deal with a little splash.


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## mjw210

Well I got another hour on Monday night so only one left for the break in period. I might get a chance today after my sons preschool orientation! It would be nice to get it done since it looks like I will have to start working Sundays again... I will post up the results after the cylinder head is re-torqued.


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## shawnfish

mjw210 said:


> Wow am I ever sun burned lol! We got about another 2.5 hours on the water today before our babysitters had stuff to do. I was playing around to see how slow I could troll using the motor and it could go as slow as 1.3mph which is way better than before since it had to be at 2.5mph to stay running. I took pictures of the wake and uploaded them to my photobucket. I took the hood off afterwards to inspect the powerhead and it looked good. No discoloration on the paint or anything. The only thing I would be concerned about is I think I have it too rich since there was some fuel drops on the black intake box. So I would assume it's from the carb somewhere but, I didn't pull that box off or lean it up yet.
> 
> I had to install a new strap winch today since my strap started to tear in a spot. Old winch was 750lb style and the new one is 1500lb! Yeah this one will work much better. I also replace the hook/latch on the safety chain to attach from the trailer to the keel loop.
> 
> 1/4 Throttle: https://i1261.photobucket.com/albums/ii585/mjw210/2012-09-01113200.jpg
> 1/2 Throttle: https://i1261.photobucket.com/albums/ii585/mjw210/2012-08-31154648.jpg
> 3/4 Throttle: https://i1261.photobucket.com/albums/ii585/mjw210/2012-09-01113212.jpg
> https://i1261.photobucket.com/albums/ii585/mjw210/2012-09-01113850.jpg
> https://i1261.photobucket.com/albums/ii585/mjw210/2012-09-01113215.jpg
> 
> Now I think my transducer was causing some splashing of its own so I'm not sure if I change the angle of that if it will screw up my readings for the humming bird 797. I might need to adjust it since it was making splashes of its own while going fast. https://i1261.photobucket.com/albums/ii585/mjw210/2012-08-18133450.jpg



your ducer angle looks bad to me, you want it level with your hull so the water thats displaced from the hull just skims the bottom of the transducer. it will not affect your 797 readings but i would think it would improve them...


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## jasper60103

Thanks, Shawn for reviving this thread.

Hey, Mike.
Any updates? Did you ever finish the break-in?


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## mjw210

Sorry for the delay guys just so much stuff going on. I have 1 hour of break in left on the motor. I haven't been out this year with the boat yet. Just been crappy weather and my work is doing mandatory Sundays again.

However I'm finishing off the Motor cover right now. I have still be been taking pics along the way. I have no idea how the cover had so many little gouges/scratches. I removed the old decals with a heat gun carefully and was left with a bunch of adhesive on the cover still. I tried some of Goo Gone's Pro Series in a can from Walmart. That stuff works really well!!! I got a paper towel wet with the stuff and laid it on the adhesive for about a minute. And the adhesive came right off without issues. It didn't wreck any of the paint just for your reference. I could careless since I'm using body filler to smooth everything out and repainting the cover using OEM pain and replica decals. As of right now I have the Motor Cover seal removed and the two emblem plaques on each end of the cover. That will make it easier to paint. I have my first and probably only coat of body filler I will need. I'm going to be using a Filler Primer and then wet sand afterwards.

I do have a couple of questions maybe you can help me with. The white motor cover seal is really dirty and not the pretty white it used to be. The replacement seal on every site I have checked is black. Is there any good way of cleaning the white seal? (My Dad said to try bleach and water and leave it soak.) I wasn't sure if that would have adverse effects on the rubber or not. Oh and how the heck will I be able to staple it back on?  I also removed the foam that was inside the cover since it was in bad shape. I can find the new foam but I was thinking about either not replacing it or using dyna mat that I have left over in my garage. I figure the foam is for sound dampening. I know the dyna mat will work better and won't break down and clog up my carb down the road. What are your thoughts on this? This is one of the only things that I can think of that isn't OEM but might be a better upgrade.

Thanks again guys,
Mike

I also have a Go Pro and will use that on the water for better videos.


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## mjw210

I added the photos I've been taking for the motor cover. Also there's photos of the stereo that I installed (My B-day present from my wife) I need to install two more speakers up front. It sounds nice with just two but 4 will be better. The sweet thing is I can link my Iphone to the Head Unit and play mp3s or Pandora radio. 

Here's the link to my image shack album.
https://s1261.photobucket.com/user/mjw210/slideshow/


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## mjw210

Made another order for parts. I ordered the plastic plaques for the front and rear of the motor cover, foam liner for inside, and couple fuel pump gaskets with replacement screws. I want to have some spare parts on hand. And if I choose to add the foam in I will have it. It was only $8 so not too bad if I don't use it.


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## jasper60103

Mike, I browsed through your pics once again.
Beautiful paint job on the engine. Was it hard degreasing it?

jasper


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## mjw210

I had some heavy duty engine degreaser. And I let it work and washed it. The actual engine I took everything that would go in the parts washers and let them soak. It was a lot of work because all of the pieces and keeping them organized.


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## mjw210

Well I finally sanded the cover with 220 and a pneumatic palm sander. I had to hand sand all of the corners/edges. I forgot to take pics of it before I primed it with a few coats of filler primer. Should be a light sanding and them time to paint it with Evinrude paint! I added sanded/primed pics to my image shack album.


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## mjw210

<div style="width:480px;text-align:right;"><embed width="480" height="360" src="https://pic2.pbsrc.com/flash/rss_slideshow.swf" flashvars="rssFeed=https%3A%2F%2Ffeed1261.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fii585%2Fmjw210%2Ffeed.rss" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" /><a href="javascript:void(0);" target="_blank"><img src="https://pic.photobucket.com/share/icons/embed/btn_geturs.gif" style="border:none;" /></a><a href="https://s1261.photobucket.com/user/mjw210/library/" target="_blank"><img src="https://pic.photobucket.com/share/icons/embed/btn_viewall.gif" style="border:none;" alt="mjw210's album on Photobucket" /></a></div>


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## jasper60103

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=320900#p320900 said:


> mjw210 » Today, 3:55 am[/url]"]Well I finally sanded the cover with 220 and a pneumatic palm sander. I had to hand sand all of the corners/edges. I forgot to take pics of it before I primed it with a few coats of filler primer. Should be a light sanding and them time to paint it with Evinrude paint! I added sanded/primed pics to my image shack album.



Mike, that finish looks very smooth. Good job!. =D>


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## mjw210

Thanks! Do you know what in doing wrong posting the link for my album? I'm using the link provided on the right on photobucket? 

It was really easy to spray partly due to prep work and the primer just stuck on. With the can I used it could be sprayed at any angle which helped. 

I will be getting a foam sanding block to use for the rest of the sanding purposes.


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## jasper60103

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=320945#p320945 said:


> mjw210 » 36 minutes ago[/url]"]Thanks! *Do you know what in doing wrong posting the link for my album? I'm using the link provided on the right on photobucket? *
> 
> It was really easy to spray partly due to prep work and the primer just stuck on. With the can I used it could be sprayed at any angle which helped.
> 
> I will be getting a foam sanding block to use for the rest of the sanding purposes.



Mike, you can post the link for "Email & IM"...
https://s1261.photobucket.com/user/mjw210/library/


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## mjw210

Ahh I was using the HTML link. Well I found my paint and I will hopefully get the primer sanded and then spray everything white tonight. And then in a couple days of waiting I will tape it off and spray the blue.


I just added the link to my signature so I won't have to post it anymore


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## mjw210

Well I wet sanded the primer with 600 grit. Cleaned all the residue off and cleaned again. Then cleaned again with a tack cloth. I sprayed it all gloss white. 5 light coats with a lot of patience.


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## mjw210

Well guys the finish line is in sight! I prepped, masked, and sprayed the blue color on the top. I sprayed 5 light coats. I also sanded and sprayed primer on the handle. I kept forgetting the little tilt handle. So I'm recording how many coats of blue so I can spray the same amount . I still need to spray a clear coat. It's not perfect but I'm very pleased with it. For being an average guy I'm happy with this rebuild/restoration.


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## jasper60103

Looking sweet. Keep up the good work. =D>


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## mjw210

I painted the tilt handle on Tuesday. And I clear coated the handle and cover last night. I'll put up new pics ASAP. Any idea how long I should wait to put the decals on?


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## mjw210

Ugh... For some reason the clear coat on the white paint is a yellowish color... I'm hoping it just needs time to clear up because this just might make me cry if I have to start over on this. It was new clear coat too. It's hard to see in the pics I took but its yellowish. Just hoping it clears up with some time.


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## jasper60103

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=322045#p322045 said:


> mjw210 » Today, 2:49 am[/url]"]Ugh... For some reason the clear coat on the white paint is a yellowish color... I'm hoping it just needs time to clear up because this just might make me cry if I have to start over on this. It was new clear coat too. It's hard to see in the pics I took but its yellowish. Just hoping it clears up with some time.



Yea, I can't see it. Hopefully its not as bad as you think.


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## Johny25

When I painted my motor the same thing happened and I was really worried. Do not worry......it will lighten up and after awhile you will not even be able to tell it has a yellow tint. Here is a pic of mine after it fully cured and dried. Also un-natural light will make it look even worse than it is. Take it out in the sun. If you zoom in on the photo you can actually see I haven't cleared the hood yet.....just everything below it. Very hard to tell the difference.


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## mjw210

That's a big relief to know. It's been in a shop with fluorescent lights. After a couple days it did look like it was getting whiter. I'll have to bring it home and put it in the sun. Any tips for getting those big decals to placed just right?


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## Johny25

I actually put custom decals on that motor in the pics after removing the original so I am not sure the best technique for getting them on best. I never was good with stickers and decals lol. Sorry I haven't been on here much, got to may pans in the fryer and I have been overwhelmed. Just bought a 88' BlueFin Sportsman 1950 that is going to get a total resto this fall ........Yes Jasper I have another boat lol


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## mjw210

Well I ended up repainting the white. I just put up new pics if the cover with the decals and end plaques installed. Just a few things left to finish up before its finally done!


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## jasper60103

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=326993#p326993 said:


> mjw210 » 22 minutes ago[/url]"]Well I ended up repainting the white. I just put up new pics if the cover with the decals and end plaques installed. Just a few things left to finish up before its finally done!



Mike,
its looking pretty good. 
Just got to find that motor to hang it on. :LOL2: 

-jasper


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## Johny25

Very nice mjw =D>


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