# 1860 tracker grizzly



## screamensemen (Feb 10, 2015)

Well I got a new one. I sold my old duracraft that I was rebuilding and went and got a brand spankin new boat. It was a 2014 left over from basspro with liftime warranty on the hull. So I couldn't pass up on the deal they had. Well it is a bare bones boat nothing on it. Got a used trailer saved some money and got a used 50hp Johnson that a retired guy buys rebuilds and sells motors. The first thing I did was decide if I wanted tiller or s/c and decided with s/c but the boat didn't come that way. Did some research and found a T-H marine s/c kit all welded aluminum that you put together and paint. It turned out sweet!! I got it for $146 online. So that's the start of the build and I know I'll be asking questions later on for sure about wiring and such. I'm excited to start another build with no hidden secrets.


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## overboard (Feb 10, 2015)

Beauty there! 
One thing I like about them is the TRAC, I found quite a few ways to put it to use!


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## dtbrake (Feb 10, 2015)

What are you hoping to build this boat into. Fishing rig, play rig? Is that also the location you plan to install your console ?if so i highly encourage you to rethink its positioning. It is your boat though all said and done So do what you want. Could just be thhe picture also. Do you have a side shot of it?


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## dtbrake (Feb 10, 2015)

I should give you some reasoning behind why i hope you consider moving it. I looked up a top view photo, and i looks to be very far back. i dont know which motor you have exactly, but i would guess its in the 350-400lb range. Then add fuel tank, battery or batteries, you and a passenger and thats alot of weight in the back of the boat. Also it you have anyone fishing with you out of the back your seats will take up there casting deck. I suggest moving the console forward atleast far enough to put you seats infront of the rear brace. This will also give you more storage in the rear for things suck as life jackets and potentially a live well. I win sketch up what im saying to help you visualize what im talking about. My main concern however is weight distribution while you are running.


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## lovedr79 (Feb 10, 2015)

move the SC forward. trust me. i have a 1448 tracker SC that if it wasnt welded to the boat, need for longer control cables etc. i would have moved mine. they are very stern heavy to start with.


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## screamensemen (Feb 10, 2015)

Mainly use the boat for crabbin and fishing. I see the concern you have with having the s/c so far back. It may be better to put it at the half way mark of the boat. I have a yeti cooler I can use and bolt down for a seat and keep the whole back bench open for passengers. I need as much floor space and I can get to put my traps on. I think it's going to have to be a trial and error thing with the console. Hope the picture shows what your talking about.


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## lovedr79 (Feb 11, 2015)

if I were going to buy another boat, I would load the boat just like I was going fishing or whatever. then I would put it in the water to see where the best balance point is. the picture you have, that is probably close.


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## screamensemen (Feb 11, 2015)

Well I'm going to keep it where it's at. I already have the cables and such that came with the motor. I'll see how it rides and if need be move it forward I'll get longer cables. Last night I hung the motor and a local boat shop loaned me a drill templet for the motor bolts it worked out sweet!! Holes are straight and inline. Going to try to get everything else bolted up this weekend.


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## jhef (Feb 11, 2015)

thats huge. turned out nice


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## lovedr79 (Feb 12, 2015)

still needs a steering wheel.  :mrgreen:


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## JoshKeller (Feb 14, 2015)

that motor is only approx 175 lbs. should be fine where the console is


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## screamensemen (Feb 15, 2015)

Well I got everything bolted up and with the cables and such I got with the motor I had to move the console up some and it turned out to be a plus. Now I have the whole back seat and I sit on a cooler and drive. It'll be nice when the youngens get older and go fishing with me. Now I have lights builge and ect. First voyage today was a success no issues just some fine tunning with the motor and it did good. I have to figure how to do a live well and such any ideas? Kinda looking for a removable one so I can take out during crab season. Let me know of any ideas.


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## mbweimar (Feb 15, 2015)

I made this livewell a few months back. Used an old igloo cooler and a bilge pump I had laying around. The pluming cost about $10 at home depot. It works well for pilchards, pinfish, shrimp, whatever you got. On hot days you might have to change the water once or twice to keep them cool though.


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## huntinfool (Feb 15, 2015)

Great boat. I have the same one in a CC. 
View attachment 1


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## screamensemen (Feb 17, 2015)

I’m going to running my bow lights soon but I am trying to tackle the issue of where I run my wires. I know you can get the clip on battery lights but I didn't want to do it that way. The only thing i can think of is running it down the gunnel but not sure how to get them tucked up and out of the way so if you guys have any ideas let me know. I want to have a plan in affect before I start working on it. 

Also I have a seat issue. The cooler works fine for now but i would like something a little more comfortable to sit on and something that's lower. The cooler makes me sit up high and i feel hunched over when I'm driving. 

Thanks for the advise so for and i like the idea for the cooler live well. I'm still pondering the idea so i hope to have something soon.


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## overboard (Feb 17, 2015)

I ran mine under the gunnel, thru PVC pipe.


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## screamensemen (Feb 17, 2015)

How did you attach the pvc pipe to stay in place?


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## lovedr79 (Feb 17, 2015)

on my boat i used "galvanized conduit clips. the bolt is way above the water line.


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## huntinfool (Feb 17, 2015)

On my 1860 in the back battery, bilge area there is a channel in the center. I ran a fish wire through it and pulled my wires to the front. Then I ran the wire to the center console. Also on mine there is a small channel at the gunnel that I believe you could run a wire or two in. 
The PVC with a couple of clamps had worked on a couple of our other boats.


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## mbweimar (Feb 19, 2015)

I'm right up the road from you in Vero. We could get together and do some brain storming. I work on all the electronics in the boats and trucks for FWC.


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## screamensemen (Feb 22, 2015)

Well I've been working on it when I can and so far I got the tach in and working, switch panel, and depth finder is almost done. Also got the bracket cut for the bilge. Overboard how did you attach the pvc under the gunel? Mbweimar that's good to know we may have to hook up and brain storm. I live out west of town in Fort Pierce. Well that's all I got for now


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## huntinfool (Feb 22, 2015)

Looking good. Make sure you vacuum all those aluminum shavings. They'll jam up a bilge. (Not that you'll need one)


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## screamensemen (Feb 22, 2015)

Ya Iv'e been vacuuming as I go. I put a bilge in for just a piece of mind and I use a bucket of water to clean the deck off while checking traps so it's nice to get the excess water out. Still trying to decide on a livewell idea.


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## screamensemen (Mar 3, 2015)

Went to take her out on Sunday and was disappointed. I couldn’t get her to fire up. Pulled the spark plugs and I was getting fuel but not spark. I think my coil pack went out on me. I have one coming from the guy I bought the motor from. Hopefully that’s the issue.


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## screamensemen (Mar 6, 2015)

Well I changed out the coil pack the guy gave me and it still has no spark. The only other thing I can think of is the power pack went out. I traced and looked over the wiring and everything seems to look as far as no cuts corrosion loose wires and such. Let me know what you guys think it could be. I'm trying to do what I can before I call a mechanic. Thanks


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## mbweimar (Mar 7, 2015)

Sounds like it could be a neutral safety switch, or emergency cut off switch (lanyard.)


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## LeftCoastAngler (Mar 11, 2015)

Nice rig.


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## screamensemen (Mar 13, 2015)

I bypassed the lanyard switch and I'm still not getting any spark. I replaced the coil pack, the power pack and its still not getting spark. I'm starting to think it could be the rectifier. Any advise on what else to check?


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## mbweimar (Mar 19, 2015)

Hmmm...not sure what else to check. What engine do you have? I'll ask our marine mechanics about it.


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## JoshKeller (Mar 20, 2015)

cdi has troubleshooting instructions on their website. you'll need a multimeter - they want you to use a DMM, but you can do just fine with a regular one if you can see the screen while you crank the motor. 

if you've already replaced the powerpack and coil, i'd be looking at the stator next, but do the tests before you spend the money


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## Fedge3liberto (Jun 16, 2015)

Hey guys, It has been years but im back on this site. I have a 2012 1860 Grizzly and was wondering if any of yall have put a rear deck in?

I would like it to be alum. Just looking for ideas.

Thanks


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## huntinfool (Jun 16, 2015)

Mine came with one. I might have a pic. I'll look. 
View attachment 1

You can kinda see it here.


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## wmk0002 (Jun 17, 2015)

Do the tests as mentioned previously. You will be testing the resistance and cranking voltage of the stator, trigger, cd pack, and coils. Start by cleaning every ground wire that comes off of an ignition component. I don't know what to tell you though if everything checks within specs and grounds are all clean.


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## Fedge3liberto (Jun 17, 2015)

One more question. What speeds are y'all getting on your 1860's and with what motors? I have a 2 stroke Mercury Bigfoot 60hp and it goes about 28mph with just me or with 4 guys and a ton of duck gear. 

Mine started as the tiller version and only has a small side console that was added later. It only has the one middle transom brace and only rated for 60hp.

Also how do i post a pic for yall to see what i got?


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## Kris (Jun 18, 2015)

I always run my electrical wires thru a tube built into the hull by manufacturer or through conduit. I usually use PVC pipe and then paint to match the boat but now going to use electrical conduit. The plus is that it is made to be in the sunlight. PVC gets brittle without paint or some other protection from sunlight. Drawback to electrical conduit is the lack of small, inexpensive Ts. Most I have found are more expensive water proof boxes. So I will start running the wires through a hole drilled in the side and drill holes in the bottom for drainage of condensation if needed. I also install with some drop to the stern so that any standing water will roll to the back and exit a larger drilled hole. I do cap the end to keep flying things from using it as a home.


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## screamensemen (Jan 19, 2016)

Well it’s been a long time since I have been back to the forum. Wife had the kids and life got crazy. I ended up getting the motor running and haven't had an issue yet. I ordered my live well it’s a 30gl round tank. I am just waiting for it to come in. Also I will be tackling the bow light issue with wiring soon. I haven’t done much with the boat since the last post so there's no new updates on it. Ill post pictures up when the tank comes in and i get it in place. Hope everyone had a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.


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## screamensemen (Jan 26, 2016)

Livewell came in this past weekend. I am fab up a stand for it to sit on so the overflow drain can dump out the side of the boat. I’m doing this so the tank can be removed easily and so I don’t have to drill a hole in the side of the boat.

I work two jobs and one is at HD and I came across these stainless hooks for the boat. I got three packs and some stainless hardware for it. There are two holes in the hook and I drilled a hole below the last hole so it would drop the next hook down some to allow for storage. Just and idea for the guys that have the versa track system. The cost was $16 and change.


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## overboard (Jan 26, 2016)

I was just reading over this thread! #-o  Sorry I never answered your question about running the PVC pipe along the gunnel, I saw you had asked me twice.
Well, at least your still at it! I put pieces of adhesive industrial Velcro along the underneath of the TRAC and down the hull slightly, then matched up other pieces on the pipe to what I had on the boat. That alone may not hold it in place. so where I used brackets on the TRAC I drilled a few of them to be able to put a bolt through, and made a ledge for the pipe to sit on.
You could also just run some small L brackets right off the TRAC and hold it up with those.
Probably could glue it up also by using something like Goop. I thought about doing that since it can be removed at a later time with no damage to the boat.
Hope this helps.
Here's a few ways that I put the TRAC to use using brackets and carriage bolts. You can also see the PVC pipe containing the wires that's completely out of the way, and tucked up under the gunnel. One thing I should have done was paint it, but that's NBD.


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## screamensemen (Jan 27, 2016)

No worries. I still haven't gotten to that part of the boat yet anyways. I see that an L bracket will probably work best to hold it up the tubing. I've been busy with the my Trips and haven't had much time to work on it and now they are getting a little bigger its a little easier to find some time. I think i may get the strip led lights and attach it to the bottom of the tubing to have it for night fishing and such. There are just so many ways to do tin boats and that's one reason i love them. Thank you for the reply back.


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## Ebug (Feb 27, 2016)

Can you update us on what you decided on your livewell?

Thanks....and great build.

Rob


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## screamensemen (Feb 29, 2016)

I ordered the tank through BassPro Todds angler 30gl https://www.basspro.com/Todd-Angler-Series-Baitwells/product/30208/?cmCat=CROSSSELL_PRODUCT_MTv2 After the tank arrived I measured it up and made a stand so my over flow drain could hang on the side of the boat. I didn’t want to have to drill a hole in the side of the boat and I wanted the tank to be removable if I just wanted to take the kids out riding. After I got the stand done it was a matter of getting all the small pieces together. Here is some pics. If you have any questions about let me know.


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## chevyrulz (Feb 29, 2016)

dwbiggs said:


> How did you run your wiring from the front back?


I ran 16ga tinned marine duplex wire inside the side rail tubing with a fish tape. Had to drill a 1/2" hole which I then plugged with a 3/4" rubber stopper plug from the hardware aisle @ Home Depot:


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## screamensemen (Mar 1, 2016)

Awesome. I didn't even think of doing that way. The tubing already has a hole at the transom for a drain so if water did get in it would drain out anyways. Is your boat a cc or sc? How did you then get the wires to the console?


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## screamensemen (Mar 3, 2016)

I’m looking to get a trolling motor for my boat but not sure what I want. I mostly do salt water fishing so the salt water series is the one I need. Any preference of brand? What shaft length do I need? I am going with 12V just because I won’t be using it a lot just mostly for gigging and they are cheaper than the 24 or 36V.


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## riverrat717 (Mar 3, 2016)

Here's a good place to start: https://www.trollingmotors.net/ Boat looks great BTW!


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