# Downrigger setups - What’s yours?



## Weldorthemagnificent (Aug 23, 2018)

Hi. Always been a bass and pike guy but I got bit by the salmon bug. Here is the start of my low buck downrigger setup on my 16’ Naden. 2x8 bolted into the oar locks and a well used big jon manual bolted to a piece of board that will swivel and pin in place all coated with water seal. 
What are you guys using?










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## GYPSY400 (Aug 23, 2018)

16ft Legend Prosport tiller.. I fabbed up this mount to use the seatbase off my livewell. The angle iron on the mount holds tight to the gunnel, and you can see the rod holder mount on the aft platform. 

I'm heading to windy lake near Levack in the morning!











Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk


----------



## LDUBS (Aug 23, 2018)

My current boat has long boom electric riggers mounted to boxed-in areas either side of the motor well. On my previous boat I had aluminum brackets made (See pic below). I designed them to bolt to the gunnel and the rear seat (used backer plates for both). Another common design is to have them bolted to the gunnel and the hull, as shown in the second pic below. Yet another option is a "pedestal" mount (see an example at scotty.com and cannon.com). 

The ones shown in the first pic were done by Fish-On Fabrications (a TB sponsor). I just emailed them a drawing with dimensions. Of course, you could also use a local fabricator.

I might also add that including a swivel mount makes life a lot easier. If yours are Big Jon riggers, they make one. Less expensive ones might be available from Scotty or Cannon but you would have to confirm they would fit your Big Jon rigger bases.


----------



## Weldorthemagnificent (Aug 24, 2018)

The seat base idea is pretty innovative. I could fab up some aluminum mounts but initially I want to keep things removable. I’m excited to try this out, I’ve only ever been downrigging twice with friends so I have lots to learn. And spend it seems. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jethro (Aug 24, 2018)

I have a tiny, little portable Big Jon clamp on rigger with what seems like a 2 or 3 lb ball that I use on my Starcraft. It's good for 20 feet, after that it's got too much blowback.

My trolling rig has two Penn 620 manual riggers on swivel mounts and a planer mast. Next year it will have 2 brand new Scotty electric riggers! On my way to troll with them all weekend just as soon as I am done with this pesky thing called "WORK".











More importantly- what releases is everyone using?


----------



## LDUBS (Aug 24, 2018)

Weldor, if you are just trying it out, what you have will work just fine. I think it would be better if you could move the board back so it is behind the bench. Maybe there is a way to clamp it down so you don't have to drill holes. Many use the same concept permanently.


----------



## Weldorthemagnificent (Aug 25, 2018)

It worked just fine. I had it down 50 some odd feet in 60 feet of water. Came back in and one of the locals guys said the salmon are all 100’ plus right now......I have about 85’ of cable on this used rigger so I will have to go to the cable store. The board worked great, no creaking or rattling, just the music from the wire as we putt putted along. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## LDUBS (Aug 25, 2018)

That wire hum can get pretty irritating. Just pretend it is attracting fish and it won't be so bad. 

I noted that going to a heavier DR weight practically eliminated it in my boat. I also read where putting a floating cork or something on the wire gets rid of the hum. Never tried that myself, so can't say for sure. Finally, I read that using braid instead of cable eliminates hum and reduces blow back. None-the-less, I prefer cable. 

If you really want to get fancy, get one of those positive ion controllers that will send a current that fish like down the wire. I think the Cannon Electric DRs have that built in. 

Needless to say there are all kinds of gadgets that will drain your pocket book.


----------



## Weldorthemagnificent (Aug 26, 2018)

I read about those ion thingys. There is a local guy that makes them. I wonder if it works or if it’s a bunch of hooey?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## clarkbre (Aug 27, 2018)

I bought a pair of clamp on Scotty Lake Troller's with 4lbs balls years ago and have used them off and on. They are a good size for some of the larger lakes around here. Now that I'm getting more into Kokanee fishing, I'm appreciating the downriggers more. Eventually, I'd like to convert them to fit the standard Scotty bases so that they would drop in as opposed to clamp...It would at least speed up the set-up/breakdown process.


----------



## haute (Sep 11, 2018)

I bolted the Scotty mounting plate for the pedestal onto the bench with a 1/8" thick aluminum backing plate on the underside of the bench (the plate is about 8" x 10"). That way, all of the stress from the downrigger is on the plate, not on the wood of the seat.


----------



## Weldorthemagnificent (Sep 11, 2018)

Nice


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Tinny Fleet (Sep 12, 2018)

One poster mentioned "wire hum". I learned years ago running downriggers for kingfish that wire hum was a big turnoff. Solution used by the Dave Workman's of the world (yeah I know, that was a while ago)? go with 80-100 lb mono!. So I put in on right over the top of the wire on the spool with the expectation that soon enough I'd tire of the mono and just strip it off.


…….. its still there. Works great, although when deployed it bows a bit more than the wire. No biggie. 

And I use it for fresh and salt.


----------



## Weldorthemagnificent (Sep 12, 2018)

I may go with mono or braid. The way things are going it might be next year before I get back out!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## haute (Sep 15, 2018)

Tinny Fleet said:


> One poster mentioned "wire hum". I learned years ago running downriggers for kingfish that wire hum was a big turnoff. Solution used by the Dave Workman's of the world (yeah I know, that was a while ago)? go with 80-100 lb mono!. So I put in on right over the top of the wire on the spool with the expectation that soon enough I'd tire of the mono and just strip it off.
> 
> 
> …….. its still there. Works great, although when deployed it bows a bit more than the wire. No biggie.
> ...




Here's an interesting read on the topic.https://suncruisermedia.com/the-spo...e-pros/downrigger-line-debate-braid-vs-cable/. 

TL;DR: It comes down to personal preference. Most pro charters have tried braid, end up going back to steel.


----------



## Weldorthemagnificent (Sep 15, 2018)

Good read.. it
Left me thinking of how I currently only own one cannon ball! Lol. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jethro (Sep 17, 2018)

I far prefer using steel over braid or mono. I did not like how it compressed in the spool and jumped unpredictably. I also know of at least one person that blames a cracked spool due to mono line that compressed into itself too much.

I always carry two spools of cable, two terminal kits and two spare cannonballs on board.


----------



## LDUBS (Sep 20, 2018)

Scotty says using mono on their DR's is a no-no. Reason being it stretches under load then will contract on the spool resulting in uneven windings or even damage. 

I also prefer steel over braid. There are a lot of advantages to braid, but I just feel I will notice a nick or kink in steel easier than in braid. Makes preventive maintenance a little easier. 

I carry spare parts/terminal kits but not spare cable or weights. Another thing to add to the seeming never-ending list.


----------

