# Lowe Boat Mod



## fish18 (Jan 6, 2009)

Hello all, New here and have been doing some lurking trying to get the info I need to modify my Lowe 15ft Jonboat.

First off the boat is great shape and has had a couple different types of wooden decks on it. This time i am changing things up.

After reading some posts on the subject of removing bench seats I know alot of you don't recommend it. My boat has a center seat that is riveted to the sides and is not attached to the floor. My structural ribs (6) are spaced at 18 in to center. The seat if removed would leave a gap at 29in inbetween ribs. I would post some pics but it is pouring down rain and it can wait till tommorrow. I am going to remove the seat and then rebrace the gap between the ribs with flat aluminum attached to the existing ribs then another piece on each side 
running down to the new aluminum floor I am going to install.
The floor is going to need a piece of 90in by 41in aluminum and will be supported by the ribs that go across the boat bottom. 

Questions What thickness will I need to use for the floor? 0.80,0.90,1.25 ect remember it will be well supported by the ribs.

After removing the seat whats the best way of filling the rivet holes? I do not have a rivet gun and am thinking stainless steel bolts,washers and nuts with 5200 applied. I have also found a aluminum putty that is available anyone tried it? epoxy/aluminum putty made by a couple companies comes in a tube and is kneeded in hands then applied.

I am having a hard time finding aluminum here in MD any suggestions. I am close to Virginia,Deleware,DC area.

Any and all advice is welcome! I will post a pic of what I am starting with and will take it from there. Thanks


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## russ010 (Jan 6, 2009)

I've used the aluminum/epoxy putty in the tube like you are talking about - I've had no problems with leaks. I used that stuff in another boat that had a hole the size of a half dollar and it fixed it up right. I packed it pretty heavy and then sanded the outside to match the contours of the boat bottom.. can't even tell it was on there after I painted it.

As far as flooring, if aluminium is going to be your main floor, you probably wanna ask bassboy1 - his boat is all aluminum as well.


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## smoody (Jan 6, 2009)

fish18, for what its worth, I have a 1999 Lowe 1448 Big Jon , I contacted Lowe Boats directly and spoke to an engineer about removing the center bench seat. He told me that the model boat I had was not built out of heavy enough aluminum to remove the center bench and that doing so would greatly reduce the integrity of the boat. He did state however the Roughneck series is a heavy more durable boat and that has been performed on those before. I still would like to remove mine but scared to do so, post pics of the bracing if you can. good luck


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## Waterwings (Jan 6, 2009)

Welcome Aboard! 8)


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## CrappieReaper (Jan 7, 2009)

Structural integrity is exactly why I re-riveted the two panels between the original two livewells. I wanted to remove them, but figured I could create a small storage box there. It will be a "step over" to get from front to back and vice versa, but, because I had already removed some of the upper cross supports that held the original rear deck in place, a little side to side support would be better than none. See rebirth of the tin post. I would recomend to leave the seat, unless you plan on tying in some type of upper, side to side support system, such as to hold a deck in place.


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## fish18 (Jan 7, 2009)

I appreciate the input keep it coming ! Here is the boat I am working on




I need help with the gauge of aluminum to use on the floor??????? 

will take it from there....... Thank's


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## bassboy1 (Jan 8, 2009)

I sure hope you meant .080, .090 and .125. 1.25 inch stuff is EXPENSIVE! (Caps used for a reason). Not to mention heavy, and overkill. 

I used .090 on my rig, and wasn't crazy about it, but it is what I had. The end result is fine, and I am probably a little lighter overall, but there was a lot more labor involved, than if I went with thicker stuff. 
Here is mine.
https://www.shareaproject.com/pages/projectTut,p,482,00.html
Now, you see on my lower deck, I had to put those 1 x 1 tubes longitudinally. There is no way that .090 material, even the 6061 T6 I used, which has the most bending resistance, will be strong enough just on the existing transverse stringers on the boat. .125 is somewhat iffy there. Would probably work fine, but anybody who has been around something that I am in the process of building knows that I overbuild stuff. I usually take what is considered exceptional, and allow it to be acceptable. But, .1875 is probably to heavy/pricey for your budget.

You will have a noticeable difference in stiffness if you have support on the two sides of the hull, as opposed to just the front and back. If you take that, and get a piece welded between the ribs on each side, or rivet/bolt it in yourself (I assume you don't have welding capabilities), then you will probably be much better as far as stiffness is concerned, and .125 would be just fine. Now, you would see me doing that, and adding one brace in the middle, likely diagonally, but still using the .125 material. 

Hope that helps.


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## who pooted? (Jan 9, 2009)

2 part question.
1. Bassboy is the .90 not rigid enough? Too much flex?
2. Fish18 you can get a rivot gun that will do the big rivots like 1/4" at Harbor Freights. If you don't have a Harbor Freights where you live then go online to https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=41291. You can get a rivot gun for $20 bucks versus the $150 models everyone else sells. It will work fine. 
Good Luck


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## fish18 (Feb 7, 2009)

I am a Lucky fellow. I ran into a guy who not only has modified his boat, welds, and has all the equipment to weld aluminum. I told him what I wanted to do and he said no problem he could take care of it all. He has all the material for the front deck and I am buying the rest from a local aluminum shop. He will remove the seat and either weld or rivet the old rivet holes. Build a new rib from flat bar aluminum and weld it to existing ribs of boat. He will build the front deck out of all aluminum nothing special here just extending the deck 3ft for storage no hatches it will remain open for access in the front, on this deck goes a pedestal seat. He is building a raised platform for the electric motor. For the floor 1 sheet of .125 of aluminum and is getting a few support braces. Will mount a pedestal seat on the rear bench and other than carpet thats it. End result is storage space in front, wide open boat no middle seat, and if I am lucky this will all cost a little over $300.00. I drop the boat off on Monday and will leave him a camera to get the pics as he does the work. He will work on it in his spare time and proly be about 3-4 week turnaround.
The only drawback to this project is he lives 2.5 hrs away but I am not complaining I think I am getting a great deal! Alway's had a wood deck that weighed a ton this should be a lot different.
I will get the pics up after I get the boat back Till then SEA YA!


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## russ010 (Feb 7, 2009)

awesome man! I can't wait to see how this one turns out


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## Waterwings (Feb 8, 2009)

Cool! Looking forward to the pics! 8)


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## fish18 (Feb 10, 2009)

On the way to drop the boat off I bought the Aluminum and much to my surprise I think I got a great deal. 

1 sheet of 4x8ft .125 5052 135.00
1 1 1/2 x 3/16 12ft flat bar for new ribs after bench seat removal 10.00
1 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 3/16 25ft floor support 50.00

Angle was alittle expensive but I thought the sheet price was going to be more. Any way it turns out that after my friend who is doing the work looked over the boat he let me know I won't be needing all the angle because the floor just won't need that much support since I got the .125 instead of .090 ( which was 110.00 ) so he will buy the left over angle from me or knock it off is labor cost. He is going to take the pics as the work is being done and as soon as I get them I will put them up, since he is doing this in his spair time for under 100.00 which includes all the aluminum to build the new front deck, new motor mount, ect it will be about a 3-4 week turnaround and a ongoing picture show..............


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## bassboy1 (Feb 10, 2009)

fish18 said:


> On the way to drop the boat off I bought the Auminum and much to my surprise I think I got a great deal.
> 
> 1 sheet of 4x8ft .125 5052 135.00
> 1 1 1/2 x 3/16 12ft flat bar for new ribs after bench seat removal 10.00
> ...


Angle was probably still high as it is old stock that hasn't been sold yet. The price is going down starting at the suppliers, so most prices on new shipments will be lower. 

After getting a deal like that on the labor, and bow deck aluminum, be sure to tip that guy well, and offer to take him fishing. You got a steal there. 1 - 1.5 hours labor in most places, and I assure you that project is going to take him more than that.


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## fish18 (Feb 18, 2009)

Friend has been working full time lately but finally started on the boat, yea just my luck he has some time and it pours down rain all day.  He has removed the middle bench and has started the front deck. Work in progress Well worth the wait...........

another angle


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## fish18 (Mar 2, 2009)

A few more pictures, the new ribs where the bench seat was, and the aluminum for the front deck. Nothing is riveted to boat yet,




The new ribs have been welded, and will be pop riveted in place using the same rivet holes that held the seat inplace.


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## Zum (Mar 2, 2009)

Looks nice.
Wish the pictures were a little bigger


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## fish18 (Mar 2, 2009)

Larger Pics





The ribs also have a 45degree piece of flat bar welded inbetween the bottom ribs and side ribs.
They are hard to see in the picture but they are there for added support. What's left to do is add support to the front deck for the pedestal seat and rivet it to boat, build and attach the trolling motor mount to front deck, cut the new floor, , after cutting the aluminum for the floor the left over is going to be cut and supported in the rear of boat for the batteries to sit on,build the rear pedestal seat mount support. Hope the larger pics help. I think if you click on the pic it gets even bigger?


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## Waterwings (Mar 2, 2009)

Nice ! 8)


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## Zum (Mar 2, 2009)

Looks real nice,thanks for the picutres.


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## baptistpreach (Mar 3, 2009)

Glad to see some progress made! Hope it keeps up well!


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## fish18 (Mar 9, 2009)

Chris had time to do more work, none of the parts for this project 
have been attached to the boat yet still sizing and fitting it all together.
New trolling motor mount


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## fish18 (Mar 9, 2009)

New floor


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## fish18 (Mar 9, 2009)

Battery support deck in rear of boat, will hold 4 marine batteries.


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## fish18 (Mar 9, 2009)

Added front pedestal seat support


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## Waterwings (Mar 9, 2009)

Looks good, and it's gonna be a great rig when it's completed! 8)


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## fish18 (Mar 10, 2009)

I got the call today that the boat is finished  I am picking it up tommorrow and once home
I will post up the finished product.


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## Bone Collector (Mar 10, 2009)

I hate to ask, but what did all that sheet metal set you back? Is the price of aluminum as outrageous as it is for steel?


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## fish18 (Mar 11, 2009)

Some of the bolts that were used are stainless steel everything else is aluminum. The prices for this project are listed thruout the previous pages. Thanks for looking.


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## fish18 (Mar 13, 2009)

So I take the 2.5 hr drive to pick the boat up, excited as all get out to finally see the finished project. Chris was waiting for by the boat and I jump out to check it out. Everything that is in the pics above is even better in person EXCEPT one minor error. HAHAHA I have to laugh because it was just plain out funny lookin when I noticed, the pedestal seat mounts were upside down. They are flush mount bases which have a 3in piece which the pedestal sits into. Instead of the 3in piece going thru the boat deck and seat Chris had mounted them with the piece facing into space. HAHAHA. We didn't have a hole saw big enough to make it right so we loaded the boat and I hit the road.Just to let you know Chris makes Custom Fishing Rod Racks and Sand Spikes. 
If any one here ever needs some aluminum work done around the MD,VA, DEL, area he is your go to guy. A big shout out to Chris! :lol: 

Well I had to buy the hole saw and drilled the holes today, mounted one of the bases and will mount the other tommorrow. I fried my drill which I think was on the out's anyway and had to borrow not only one but 2 others to finish the holes. This works out good for me because now I can honestly say I did some of the work that went into the project :wink: . I will post up the pics tommorrow with some of the detail.

I am also looking into finding some rubber mats to use instead of carpet, or paint. Cut one to fit the front deck and the other to fit the floor. Easy to clean, deadens the noise, no glue, roll them up and put them away. Now I just got to find them at a reasonable price.


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## baptistpreach (Mar 13, 2009)

Mats work, but are much heavier than carpet. I like your idea of removability and cleanability though


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## fish18 (Mar 14, 2009)

Finished with the seat mounts, Here are some pics of the finished work. I have also decided to scuff up and put a coat of paint on the new aluminum ( Not yet done ) so as to take the glare off the deck and floor then get the rubber mats.
This the finished front motor mount


Rear seat mount with pedestal


Front seat mount with pedestal


Inside shot of the new ribs with rivets, Chris used aluminum rivets and sealed them inside and out with windshield sealant


Outside shot of rivets used for new ribs, used the same rivet holes that were holding the bench seat in place.


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## fish18 (Mar 14, 2009)

This is an overall shot from rear of boat. Floor is 73 in. by 43 in. and the deck is 67 in by 56 in and tapers to the front. Gives me alot of storage space underneath.


Here is pic of the surf rack that attaches to the front of my truck when I am fishing the beach.
Chris does excellent work and builds similiar racks to this one, exactly why I asked him to do the boat.


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## fish18 (Mar 14, 2009)

The boat is not finished, a little paint, have to mount the rod holders, also going to get some mini quick clips and mount them to the side ribs to hold my rods when not in use. Yet to have it in the water so until then HAPPY FISHING TO ALL and good luck with all your MODS!


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## fish18 (Mar 17, 2009)

Had some time to put a good scuff with a wire wheel brush, washed it all down with soap and water. Let it dry and wiped it down with a cloth. Went to Advanced Auto and picked up 3 cans of od green self etching primer that happened to be on sale for 3.99 a can  and did a little test run. Going to let it sit over night to see how it adheres then do the rest tommorrow. I have heard it is hard to get paint to adhere to bare aluminum so since I am out of $$$$$$$$$ trying the cheap way first, some of the self etch primers are 30-40$ a quart. Results with pics tommorrow.


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## Nick Jones (Mar 18, 2009)

looking good man! can't wait to see some updated pic's.


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## fish18 (Mar 18, 2009)

The trial run last night turned out really well. Unfortunatly only did the battery shelf, today I am not so sure of. The primer didn't seem to have the same consistency and took many more coats.
Have to let it dry overnight and check it out.


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## fish18 (Mar 25, 2009)

After alot of thought I have decided to paint the boat. The boat is 20 yrs old and has had numerous wooden decks that have taken it's toll on the aluminum and paint. After close inspection
of the old paint I came to realize it's worse than expected. Some removal of loose paint revealed some pitting and dents I never knew existed. Most of this is in the bottom of boat and the underside has it share also. 
Has anyone here tried the Permatex Rust treatment? It is supposed to remove the rust then lay down a coat of primer. This would be ideal for the places I can't reach with a wire brush since it comes in a spray can. Anyway i noticed all of this as I was trying to remove the carpet glue from the rear bench seat, what a pain in arse NEVER put glue down on your aluminum unless you intend to replace it with carpet again I had to wire brush this crap off and this was after using the normal shyte and letting it soak overnight still had to wire wheel most of it down to bare aluminum. Never again will I go back to carpet glued on the boat.

After pricing rolled rubber, rubber mats, rubber tiles I decided 
that since I had to sand and prime the worn off paint anyway I would paint it and add some non-skid additive for the floor and decks. I also went with the Pettit paint and additive, Have not recieved it yet and it wouldn't make a difference anyway since I have to do it outside I have to wait on the temps to go up. This gives me time to prep the inside of the boat, hit the spring fishing then do the work. The hardest part is finding people to help me flip the boat over to get it on the saw horses. Good luck fishing in all your rigs this spring, once I get time to launch the boat I will post up a pick along with some of the other work I am doing, if you have any suggestions on what to use for those hard to reach places that need sanding and priming lets here about it .....................Thank's


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## fish18 (Apr 24, 2009)

After sanding, cleaning, then priming with self etch primer it was ready for a coat of Rustoleum aluminum primer. ( Was gonna use red oxide primer but found this which is specific for aluminum )

The weather here in MD has been quite wet so put this off till today, I could have been fishen but the boat has been good to me for 20 yrs and it needed alittle TLC!
The new floor is removed and will be a seperate paint job from the actual inside bottom and sides of boat.
rear view of 1st of 2 coats of this brush on primer




front view of same


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## russ010 (Apr 24, 2009)

Looks good man.. that boat is going to last another 20 years before you have to do it all over again. I say it's always best to do it right the first time... it definitely pays for itself.


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## Zum (Apr 24, 2009)

Seeing that you did it all out of aluminum,I bet you will get more then 20 years out of her this time.
Looks great.


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## fish18 (Apr 24, 2009)

Even though I didn't think it was going to be this much work, I decided to concentrate my efforts on the inside ribs and floor of boat. Since finding the corrosion problem and getting the right info from the great people here the decision to go the extra mile was easy. The weather here is going to be excellent for the next couple of day's so I will sand the first coat down tommorrow rinse it off real good and hopefully lay the second coat of primer on Monday as I am going fishing Sunday. Thanks for all the great info and hope all have a wonderfull spring fishing season!


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## fish18 (Sep 5, 2009)

Caught a break in the weather and decided to paint. Sanded and primed with self etch duplicolor spray bomb.


Then a little sanding and a coat of aluminum primer.


Had to wait for the weather again and finally put the real paint down Pettit Easypoxy Black.




Pictures don't due this paint justice. This stuff shines like crazy. Anyway I am going to give a detailed write up in the boat talk forum about my painting experiences and when I have a chance to paint the inside I will post up new pics. Thanks for looking........


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## fish18 (Oct 13, 2009)

Finally got the whole boat painted and here are some picks, black outside, red inside, Pettit easypoxy with non skid additive on front deck, back bench seats and the floor which isn't in the boat ( removable aluminum floor ).


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## danmyersmn (Oct 13, 2009)

wow that looks great! What non slip additive did you mix with the Pettit?


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## fish18 (Oct 14, 2009)

danmyersmn said:


> wow that looks great! What non slip additive did you mix with the Pettit?



I used the Pettit 9900 Skidless Compound, Put a coat of paint down sprinkled it on the paint and then rolled another coat of paint over top.


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## baptistpreach (Oct 17, 2009)

Looks incredible! I'm pretty partial to that black/red color scheme. I almost went with it, but the red just didn't match my carpet, hence the maroon! Looks great.


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## fish18 (Oct 18, 2009)

No carpet for this boat, sick of it coming unglued, sick of trying to get the glue off the aluminum or wood, NAKED is this :lol: No fuss No Muss :lol:


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## danmyersmn (Oct 19, 2009)

fish18 said:


> danmyersmn said:
> 
> 
> > wow that looks great! What non slip additive did you mix with the Pettit?
> ...



Rubber like stuff or sand like stuff? oh, n/m Jamestown Distributing has a description. Silicon Oxide


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## fish18 (Oct 30, 2009)

It is not rubber, It is not sand but it is coarse like sand. Very fine granulars. I sprinkled it on pretty thick and proly used way to much but what the heck, you can tone it down if it's to rough for you by putting another coat of paint over it.


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## dtwarrow (Oct 31, 2009)

I'm a camo guy myself, but that looks awesome.


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## Cheeseball (Oct 31, 2009)

Looks pretty slick!


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