# New 14foot Jon Boat owner. Need assistance on basic setup.



## Mangdoost (May 4, 2018)

Hello my new family. I just purchased this jon boat, and I'm new to this.

Here is what I am hoping to safely use in the boat. How do I connect these items together? I saw a lot of people talking about fuse blocks and switch panels, but that part is confusing to me and I need to know how it applies in my exact situation.

-Striker 4 Garmin fish finder
-Single battery (with battery box) (do I need a big 24v or a 12v)?
-Single red/light LED front navigation light
-Two LED spreader lights (hopefully one in front, one in back, but if not possible both in front). (2.0A @ 12v)
-Single LED front bicolor navigation light (.70watt, 12 VDC working voltage.

So that's it, however, I would also like to have a switch panel for the lights, with a spare switch on the panel, and a 12V socket and USB port. It should enable me to turn the set up off when done for the day and cut power to everything. I may or may not need protection ie fuse box and/or circuit breaker. That's what I was saying earlier part of bringing all the stuff together is confusing.

I'm hoping to get help from you guys so that I can safely be on the water, and return and contribute to new people in my position on here in the future! Thanks in advance.


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## LDUBS (May 5, 2018)

I downloaded the following wiring diagram for reference from Newwiremarine.com. Thought I would share in case it might help sort things out. Of course your electrical components can vary from those shown.


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## Mangdoost (May 5, 2018)

LDUBS, thank you for your kind reply. If this gets a few other nods of approval as an ideal method I'll go ahead with it. If I don't hear anything I'll still go with it.


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## Mangdoost (May 5, 2018)

Now according to that diagram I am supposed to connect the battery to the engine. My engine does not require a battery to start. So I'm wondering what the purpose is for. Is it for grounding?


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## LDUBS (May 5, 2018)

Mangdoost said:


> Now according to that diagram I am supposed to connect the battery to the engine. My engine does not require a battery to start. So I'm wondering what the purpose is for. Is it for grounding?



No. It is just a generic diagram that assumes elect start. So, that part isn't applicable to you. Hopefully the diagram will at least give you an idea of one way to run the circuits using bus bars & switches. I'm not sure how you intend to charge your battery. I can't help you with that. The website I mentioned has a beginners guide to wiring. It will probably include items that will not apply to your set up.


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## Mangdoost (May 6, 2018)

Ok thanks. I'll figure out the charging.

So besides the switch panel and fuse block with negative bus, all I need is a battery switch and bus bar correct? What do I do with the negative cable originally meant for the engine in the diagram you provided?
Thanks again. Have a great weekend.


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## LDUBS (May 6, 2018)

Mangdoost said:


> Ok thanks. I'll figure out the charging.
> 
> So besides the switch panel and fuse block with negative bus, all I need is a battery switch and bus bar correct? What do I do with the negative cable originally meant for the engine in the diagram you provided?
> Thanks again. Have a great weekend.



OK, I fear by providing the circuit diagram I may have created more confusion than help. Sorry about that. That diagram is one way to handle things. It assumes there is elect start. You don’t have that. Unless your OB has an alternator there is no reason for a battery connection. There are other options to the diagram I attached. For example, you could do this without using the combined fuse block w/negative bus. Also, besides some elect components, you need to make sure you have the correct type and size wiring, connectors, & circuit protection. I strongly suggest you spend a little time doing research online about Boat DC wiring. Then you will be 100% comfortable with the chore and probably know more than I do about the whole subject!


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## Scott F (May 6, 2018)

There are several options that might make life a lot easier on you. You can buy a pre-wired switch panel that just requires you to connect a 12 volt battery positive and negative, and then run the wires from each light and depth finder to the switches.





There are several variations with different number of switches and options like this one.
https://www.wholesalemarine.com/switch-panel-with-lighter-and-battery-tester.html?utm_source=Criteo&utm_campaign=retargeting&utm_medium=display


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## Mangdoost (May 6, 2018)

So with this I do not need to buy any additional items? If not this may be what I need.


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## Scott F (May 6, 2018)

Except for wire and possibly some electrical connectors, that should be it.


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## Mangdoost (May 6, 2018)

I appreciate your Information. Now in terms of wires, what size should I be looking at given my needs?


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## hct4all (May 7, 2018)

Years ago I bought a complete wiring harness for a 20' boat from ebay for about 25 delivered. I have wired and rewired 3 boats with it. It even had switches, fuse folders, ground blocks, speaker wire etc. Just about used up but it was actual marine wire. Good stuff


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## Mangdoost (May 7, 2018)

Hct4all, I bought the switch panel listed above. Can I still use the wiring harness with that? I will still need wiring. What is anY?


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## hct4all (May 7, 2018)

Sorry. Fixed it to ebay. Typing on my kindle can be a challenge. I use it mostly for the wire. So yes you can. I just used a bunch when I wired my 14'.


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## Xxstang90 (May 10, 2018)

I would just buy 14 guage red and black marine wire. Get the length you need plus 25% extra.


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## LDUBS (May 11, 2018)

I couldn't find the earlier post with a link to this info. Hopefully what I pasted below will work. Not up on exactly how to do this stuff. 

https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Marine-Wire-Size-And-Ampacity


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## gnappi (May 12, 2018)

Nice boat! Welcome aboard here!

The garmin 4 comes with a VERY long cable that gets a powdery mildew on it down here. To protrect it I wrapped the wire with 1/4" nylon wire wrap and tied the excess to the wood at the stern. 

If you get one of the Minn Kota battery boxes it comes with two cig jacks which you can use not only for plug in dual USB ports but any other accessories you might use even a voltmeter built into the cig light appliance. 

The Minn kota box also has a 50 amp main breaker as well as breakers for the accessory ports and the spin on terminals are well protected and accessible. It also has three LED's (RED, GREEN and YELLOW) to give you a rough estimation of the life of the battery charge state. 

For accesories like LED stern/bow lights if light gauge is fine, but I used 18 gauge oxygen free 100% copper (not copper clad aluminum) for everything just to make it simple and flexible. 

12 or 24 volts depends totally on TM size and length of wire, I'd double the length you expect to use, you will likely do something else unplanned at some point and having extra wire around is a blessing.


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## Muskyhunter (Jul 25, 2018)

Did you end up wiring this up ? 

I have a 14 foot with nothin. I want nav lights front and all around white light in rear. I have a helix 5 fish finder that would like to have on a switch. Maybe some LED spot lights on the front to help me see in the dark. 

I have a battery for a minn Kota powerdrive but will run that on its own and just get a small 12v for the rear to have my accessories run off of. 

I’d like to know if you set it up and If you have had any issues with blown fuses, fires etc. I’m really nervous about doing this and the all-in-one switch panel seems WAY too easy. Must be a catch to running it that way LOL. I’d also add a main battery kill switch to kill power to the switch panel. 


Also, will I need a negative bus bar to run the negative off the accessory (fish finder) or does that also go to the switch panel. The switch panel I want is the one on amazon and it comes prewired 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## gnappi (Jul 25, 2018)

Muskyhunter said:


> Did you end up wiring this up ?
> 
> I have a 14 foot with nothin. I want nav lights front and all around white light in rear. I have a helix 5 fish finder that would like to have on a switch. Maybe some LED spot lights on the front to help me see in the dark.
> 
> ...



If you get one of those premade switch panels they "should" all have DPDT / DPST (+/- in and out with a common + and - bus wired to the switch bank) switches negating the need for a negative bus. If OTOH the switches on them are lit (7 pin) with LED's you will likely need a separate ground bus as the switches only switch the positive lead. 

This one on Ebay does really well for me as added output DC taps and ground bus, but IIRC the max current is 15A so you'll be OK with lower powered LED lights and such.

8 Way Terminal Block Bus Bar,Splits 1 Input to 8 Out




For just a ground bus there are many options you can deploy.


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## wis bang (Aug 30, 2018)

recommend Del City.com, nice selection of marine wire, switches, connections, etc. at sensible prices.


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## MrGiggles (Aug 31, 2018)

Muskyhunter said:


> Did you end up wiring this up ?
> 
> I have a 14 foot with nothin. I want nav lights front and all around white light in rear. I have a helix 5 fish finder that would like to have on a switch. Maybe some LED spot lights on the front to help me see in the dark.
> 
> ...



Depends, some are DPDT, both power and ground run through the switch (run your component wires directly to the switch, + and -). Others are not, only the power wire is switched, in which case you will need to use a common ground, typically a bus bar. A lighted DPDT switch will have 6 terminals, lighted SPST will have 3. 

It would be smart to run a main inline fuse as close to the battery as possible, and inline fuses for each component after the switch panel as well. Some switch panels already include the fuses, some don't.

I order bulk packs of connectors on ebay as well, buying them locally is outrageously expensive. Crimp type with shrinkable tubing are the best.

I don't see it necessary to connect your sonar to a switch, as it will still need to be powered on manually. All of mine are direct connected, they all include fuses, no problem there.


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