# Trailer Project (a couple more new pictures!)



## BaitCaster (Apr 12, 2010)

This weekend I bought a used "EZ Loader" trailer for my new Tracker 1542 Jon (which is on order). It's pretty rusty but the frame is solid and it appears to be a well built trailer. Both sets of bearings will need to be replaced and it needs new lights. Came with a spare tire, and transom saver as well. The guy was asking for $400 but I paid $300.

Anyway, I took most of it apart when I got it home. I plan to strip the frame and all the parts with a wire wheel and then prime and paint. Is there a better way to strip than using the wire wheel? What is the best primer/paint to use? I will probably reaplce most of the hardware as well (i.e., u-bolts, nuts etc.)

Once it is painted I am going to reassmble it and then replace the hubs and install new lighting. I figure replacing the hubs will be easier than just replacing the bearings. How do I know what kind of replacement hubs to get? I know how to measure the bolts on the hub, but what other measurements/specs do I need to make sure I get the right hubs? Anmy recommendations where to get hubs (I live in Ontario, Canada)?

The trailer came with rollers. The rollers at the back of the trailer actually tilt (the orginal boat on this trailer was an old heavy fiberglass model). I am replacing the forward rollers with bunks, but I'm wondering if it is better to keep the rear rollers or should I replace them with bunks as well (my boat is a flat bottom Jon). Does anybody have any thoughts/advice on this?

All input and advice is greatly appreciated. Pictures will follow.

Cheers,
BC


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## BassBlaster (Apr 12, 2010)

I am doing the same you are. I have made a ton of progress the last 2 weekends. The wire wheel is the best way I think. It is very time consuming and a mess but the end result is worth it. Other than a few pit marks where the rust was heavy, my trailer is looking brand new. I'm replacing my hubs as well. Do a search online, I have found them as cheap as 18 bucks a side to as much as 50 bucks a side. Those are complete kits (hub, bearings, races, seal, castle nut, pin, dust cover). 

I would also take all those rollers off and just go with bunks. Thats what I'm doing. I'm going with two bunks on the back and a cross bunk up front. A small bunk at the nose by the winch where a roller used to be and I'm considering side bunk guide ons.

Heres the link to my trailer project...
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=13048&p=134260#p134260


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## BaitCaster (Apr 13, 2010)

Thanks for the reply BB! I saw your project. You're diong a great job. I guess I have to just use some good old fashioned elbow grease. I will go with the wire wheel to start. I think the key is to be patient. I had hoped that I wouldn't need to dsassemble the entire trailer, but I think that is the way I am going to have to go in order to do a good job on it.

I was lucky, my trailer already has the side bunk guide ones. I just need to reaplce the wood/carpet on them. I will probably get the pre-carpeted ones from BassPro. I also plan to put a cross bunk up front.

Question for you on the hubs - how do you know what size to get? I know about the number and spaciong of the bolts. however, I think I read somewhere that you need to get the measurement of the spindle as well. I am assuming my hbs are a standard size, but I don't want to waste any time getting the wrong sized hubs.

Cheers,
BC


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## BassBlaster (Apr 13, 2010)

Just measure the inside of the bearing when you take the old hub off. Most of them are pretty standard 1" but there are some oddball sizes out there. I have seen spindles that step down even or bottle neck, where it would require a smaller bearing in the front of the hub, if that makes since.


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## Quackrstackr (Apr 13, 2010)

Pull it to someone that does sandblasting and get it done in an afternoon instead of spending weeks on it with a wire wheel. They may even let you prime it yourself in their parking lot before you pull it back home.

Just my $.02.


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## BaitCaster (Apr 14, 2010)

Quackrstackr said:


> Pull it to someone that does sandblasting and get it done in an afternoon instead of spending weeks on it with a wire wheel. They may even let you prime it yourself in their parking lot before you pull it back home.
> 
> Just my $.02.



Thanks, I thought of that. Got a quote for $400 form a local guy!


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## Quackrstackr (Apr 14, 2010)

Wow.

I guess it pays to know a few people that sandblast. I could get one done substantially cheaper than that but I also have a small unit that hooks to my air compressor so that I can do it myself. :mrgreen:


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## BaitCaster (Apr 14, 2010)

BassBlaster said:


> Just measure the inside of the bearing when you take the old hub off. Most of them are pretty standard 1" but there are some oddball sizes out there. I have seen spindles that step down even or bottle neck, where it would require a smaller bearing in the front of the hub, if that makes since.



Sounds easy enough. Thanks. I actually called a place that sells hub and they told me to bring in the old one and they would set me up with the right hub.


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## BassBlaster (Apr 14, 2010)

Something to think about if you go the sandblasting route....my guess is they would want to do it as one unit rather than disassemble it and do each peice individually. My worst rust problems were areas where things overlapped ( behind spring hangers, fenders, bunk supports, etc.) and sandblasting isnt going to get into those areas. I wish I could have disassembled mine and had it all sandblasted but it just wasnt in the budget. I'm trying to keep my entire project in a $350 budget and that includes the trailer purchase!!


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## BaitCaster (Apr 15, 2010)

BassBlaster said:


> Something to think about if you go the sandblasting route....my guess is they would want to do it as one unit rather than disassemble it and do each peice individually. My worst rust problems were areas where things overlapped ( behind spring hangers, fenders, bunk supports, etc.) and sandblasting isnt going to get into those areas. I wish I could have disassembled mine and had it all sandblasted but it just wasnt in the budget. I'm trying to keep my entire project in a $350 budget and that includes the trailer purchase!!



You are right about that. I have also noticed that the worst rust is where parts are attached. I'm not going the sandblasting route - too expensive. It only cost me $10 for the wire wheel I am using!


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## BaitCaster (Apr 15, 2010)

OK, I now have some pictures: (these are in reverse order)


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## BaitCaster (Apr 15, 2010)

I took the hubs off last night. Bearings in both hubs were essentially shot. On one hub the bearings all fell out when I took it off the spindle. That's fine, I knew the bearings needed replacing when I bought it and I actually intend to buy all new hub assemblies. I was dissapointed to see the condition of the spindles (see pictures). There is a lot of pitting and scoring on both spindles and it now looks like I am going to need to buy a new axle.

On another note, I soaked some of the rusty hardware in a bucket of "Evapo-Rust" and the results were impressive. Unfortunately I didn't take any "before" pictures but I can tell you these parts were heavily rusted. I will post the "after" pictures later.


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## BaitCaster (Apr 18, 2010)

Got the trailer mostly primed and painted this weekend. I also re-carpeted the side bunk boards and made a new bottom bunk. I'm not happy with the job I did carpeting the bunks. They wil do for now but I will probably buy the carpeted bunks fom BassPro in the future.

I'm ordering the new axle hubs and springs tomorrow. It should be finished next week! I will post some pics tomorrow.


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## BaitCaster (Apr 19, 2010)

I had a very productive weekend, although the wife was not too happy with all the time I spent in the garage. Got most of the trailer primed on Friday and Saturday, and painted on Sunday. I am heading out to Cerka Industries this afternoon to get a new axle, springs and hubs. I got the axle separated from the springs fairly easy once I figured out how they were connected. However, on closer inspection I determined I might as well replace the springs now while I have everything apart. Here are some pics from the weekend.


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## perchin (Apr 19, 2010)

Are there any TSC's in your area? They have pretty good prices on new axles. Also springs.


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## BaitCaster (Apr 19, 2010)

perchin said:


> Are there any TSC's in your area? They have pretty good prices on new axles. Also springs.



I think there are TSC stores out in the rural areas but not here in the city. Cerka is great. I have been on the phone with them a couple of times and they have been extremely helpful. They told me to bring out my old axle, hubs and springs. They are going to fabricate a new axle for me based on the measurements of the old one and match it up with the right hubs and springs. They estimated around $120 for everything and it should be ready in 3 days.

https://www.cerka.ca/


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## perchin (Apr 19, 2010)

BaitCaster said:


> perchin said:
> 
> 
> > Are there any TSC's in your area? They have pretty good prices on new axles. Also springs.
> ...



wow, scratch TSC, that my friend is a steal of a deal. 8)


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## BaitCaster (Apr 20, 2010)

Took off from work early yesterday and headed out to Cerka with the old axle, hubs and springs. The gyus at Cerka were great. I can't say enough good things about them. They measured everything up for me. They told me the springs were good, but I went ahead with the new ones anyway - might as well replace them while everything is apart. I went with slightly heavier duty axle and springs. Total cost including all the mounting hardware and taxes was $170. The will be ready to be picked up on Friday.

In the meantime I got most of the painting done and all that is left to do is reassemble the trailer and install the new lights and wiring.

I have never wired the lights on a trailer before. I will get one of the kits that are out on the market. I will probably also go with LED as that seems to be what everyone prefers. I've noticed a lot of talk about proper grounding. I would have assumed that the kit would contain everything I would need to properly ground the lights. Is there something more I should be doing?


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## BassBlaster (Apr 20, 2010)

The kit is gonna be designed to ground directly to the trailer. There will be a short white wire that gets wired to the trailer via a self tapper and the lights will ground through the mounting studs or some actually have a seperate ground wire to attach to the trailer. My LED's had a ground wire at each light, I dunno if all LED's do, this was my first time wiring LED's. I decided based on a suggestion from a member here to run a ground wire to each light rather than ground it through the trailer. You will have to purchace additional wire for that but I think its well worth the extra effort cause everyone has ground problems eventually. Hopefully this eliminates any for me in the future.

I ran a single ground wire from the white wire in front down the tounge then split it to run to each tail light and ran jumpers from the split wires to the side markers if any of that makes since. Basically I didnt wanna run 4 ground wires but I wound up with several connection points so I just used the proper connectors then sealed all of them with shrink tubing.


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## perchin (Apr 20, 2010)

That sir will last you for years to come.... I loved my LED's and will never switch back to normal bulbs again........... one time my wife backed the trailer in so I could power load and hit the dock, broke the lens cap off of the LED, and continued on in...... the light still worked fine  I just had to replace the cap and gasket.


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## BaitCaster (Apr 23, 2010)

Stopped at Canadian Tire on my way home last night and picked up a basket full of new nuts and bolts and an LED light kit for the trailer. Got the side bunk arms, fenders and roller assembly put back together. It' starting to look like a trailer again! Heading out to Cerka this afternoon to pick up the new axle assembly.

(See if you can spot the trailer amid all of the junk in my garage!)


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## BaitCaster (Apr 26, 2010)

The finished project:


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## basshunter25 (Apr 26, 2010)

Looks real nice. =D>


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## Outdoorsman (Apr 26, 2010)

Wow....Awesome job...looks like new....in fact...better than new...


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## BaitCaster (May 4, 2010)

Here are a couple more pics. I tilted the bow up to work on the front bunk and to drain out some water.


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## Brine (May 4, 2010)

BC,

Just an FYI, I have a trailer with rollers like yours on a 12ft v-hull. The rollers have actually dented in the bottom of the hull where they rest while trailered. I usually have two batteries in addition to a trolling motor mounted back there which I'm sure is the primary reason for the dents assuming everytime the trailer bounces, the rollers push into the hull. 

I'm not sure what the full extent of the problem is or potentially could be and even though the boat is riveted, it hasn't created any leaks by bending the aluminum in those locations. 

Looks like you did a great job on it.


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## BaitCaster (May 4, 2010)

Brine said:


> BC,
> 
> Just an FYI, I have a trailer with rollers like yours on a 12ft v-hull. The rollers have actually dented in the bottom of the hull where they rest while trailered. I usually have two batteries in addition to a trolling motor mounted back there which I'm sure is the primary reason for the dents assuming everytime the trailer bounces, the rollers push into the hull.
> 
> ...



Thanks. I will keep an eye on it.


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## guffey (May 4, 2010)

Awesome job BC. That looks outstanding!


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## Nozzlejocky (Jun 9, 2010)

Great job on that trailer! Looks sweet. I've actually been pondering painting mine green to match my boat when all said and done, but was wondering what it would look like. Now I have an idea! Thanks!


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## BaitCaster (Jun 9, 2010)

Nozzlejocky said:


> Great job on that trailer! Looks sweet. I've actually been pondering painting mine green to match my boat when all said and done, but was wondering what it would look like. Now I have an idea! Thanks!



Thanks - glad you like it! Don't forget to post some pictures of your when you get it done.

Cheers,
BC


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## JRHOADES20 (Jul 11, 2010)

BaitCaster said:


> I had a very productive weekend, although the wife was not too happy with all the time I spent in the garage. Got most of the trailer primed on Friday and Saturday, and painted on Sunday. I am heading out to Cerka Industries this afternoon to get a new axle, springs and hubs. I got the axle separated from the springs fairly easy once I figured out how they were connected. However, on closer inspection I determined I might as well replace the springs now while I have everything apart. Here are some pics from the weekend.



So what kind of paint did you use and how is it holding up?


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## BaitCaster (Jul 12, 2010)

First I sprayed on Tremclad Rust Reformer, then a coat of Tremclad Grey primer followed by a coat of Tremclad flat green rust paint on the frame and Tremclad charcoal grey hammer finish on the roller assembly and fenders. The fenders are galvanized so I had to use a galvanized steel primer.

It all worked well and the paint is holding up nicely.


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