# First Boat Project - 1989 Tracker Pro 17



## jkitchene (Oct 8, 2014)

I have started to tear down my 1989 Tracker Pro 17 as a fall/winter project. This is the first time I have ever tackled anything like this but it has actually been fun so far. This site has a tremendous amount of information and has given me the ambition to rebuild my boat.

Background - Live in Southern Illinois and fish a small club tournament trail. It is a team format with up to 3-4 of our 12 events taking place on Newton Lake. This is a power plant lake of approximately 1,800 acres lake and has a 25 HP limit. I bought this Tracker 3 years ago as my partner has a bigger Lowe aluminum bass boat with a 90 HP we use for other lakes. I have boat set up with Humminbird 998 at console.

The Plan - The boat runs fine but leaks to the point I have to turn on the bilge every hour to hour and a half to keep water from coming up into the battery well. Main floor is rotten and sunken in between the rear ribs. Foam is soaked and wiring is an absolute mess. The trolling motor is original and only 30 lb. thrust.
1. Rip out all flooring/decking
2. Repair leaking rivets and then Gluvit
3. Extend front casting deck (aluminum angle)
4. Add storage and a rod locker
5. Redo rear casting deck with storage on sides
6. Replace or change livewell layout (hate current design as drain is 2 inches from the bottom)
7. Replace console possibly with a new aluminum console
8. Add Humminbird 958 to bow
9. Replace 30 lb trolling motor with Maxxum 70 lbs. 24 volt trolling motor
10. Rewire entire boat
11. Go back with aluminum flooring and casting decks
12. New carpet and then go fishing

I'm sure I'm forgetting several things but I'm basically starting over. Fun project and fortunately I have a heated shop so I can take my time this winter. I have already started but below are pics of what I started with, more to come.


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## kofkorn (Oct 8, 2014)

If you can forgo the footwell for the TM, I would definitely suggest that you add a hatch to the front storage compartment. On mine, it was practically useless until I added the hatch. Now I keep extra life jackets and a whole bunch of 3600 boxes in there. 

Also make sure when you remove the foam that you clean out the space between each of the chines and the aluminum frame members. When tracker poured their foam in, these drain holes got plugged up. I'm sure it's a really big part of why the foam gets so waterlogged in these boats. 

I've got a full boat and OMC motor wiring diagram from Tracker for these boats. I'll PM you with it. It comes in EXTREMELY handy when you are re-wiring.

Good luck and post pictures!!! I've used my build as a reference a few times to remember how I routed something or where the location of the ribs are.


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## jkitchene (Oct 8, 2014)

Here are a few pics of my progress thus far. Next step is to remove the motor and rear deck. What is the preferred method for cleaning up the inside of the hull? I will definitely need to spend more time getting foam out of the channels but making progress. You can see from the picture of my foam I found a short landscaping shovel to be the trick. I pushed it down into the foam in a couple of places then used it to pry large pieces out. Before that I was struggling to get it out in any large chunks and was making a mess.


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## fool4fish1226 (Oct 8, 2014)

Nice looking project keep at it :beer:


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## kofkorn (Oct 8, 2014)

I used a cupped wire brush. I have one that works with a drill and one that works on my grinder. The drill version would work nicely to clean up that residue.


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## jkitchene (Oct 8, 2014)

Something like this? I looked at these at the hardware store and they just seem really stiff/course.


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## jkitchene (Oct 8, 2014)

Another question  I have been trying to figure out my plan for the front deck extension. As you can see from the pic as I extend it the deck will get closer to the top rail. I'm considering using the same bulk head that it currently carpeted and extending off of it. I think I can drill out the rivets of the current angle that the level is sitting on and use those same holes that are in the hull as the angle is probably 2". I want to avoid drilling more holes in the boat if possible. Do you think it would be best to adjust the aluminum angle and rivet using the same holes in the hole of the boat?


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## kofkorn (Oct 8, 2014)

That's the brush that I use on the grinder. It may seem stiff, but when you need to remove that adhesive from the aluminum, it's what you need. To remove the foam residue, I used something for my drill, like this:




I've seen a few of the Trackers with the deck extended, and I don't really remember them having any issue running into the gunwales. I wouldn't reset the angle of the braces on the sides. If you do, you'll need to reconfigure the center braces which are fixed under the front of the bow, and then rebuild a new panel where your TM plug is mounted. A LOT more work than necessary. The extensions I've seen were simply kept in line with the original deck. You'll get an added benefit from extra storage too! \/ 

Honestly, adding a couple of new holes for rivets in the exterior of the hull, especially above the waterline, will not be an issue by the time you're done. You're going to need to reset some rivets below the water line when you remove the rear bulkhead anyway, so 6 or 8 additional rivets won't be a big deal. I'd rather add a couple of extra rivets now than find out after my build that the area is too weak. 

Make sure you purchase the "Closed End Blind Rivets" and goop them up with 3M 5200 sealant when you set them. There won't be anything to worry about. 

Keep it up!


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## KRS62 (Oct 9, 2014)

Any thoughts to replacing all the rivets in the ribs while you have the floor up? I have the same boat, just a little older (I just posted it up.) Anyway, I can see reasons why to replace them all now.....and reasons why to only fix the leaking ones. 

KRS


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## jkitchene (Oct 9, 2014)

That is an interesting thought. I have noticed most guys talk about replacing the leaky rivets during their build. I haven't seen anybody replace them all but I'm sure some have. The rivets I have drilled out of my boat are the very first rivets I have ever removed, so I don't come from experience. I have never installed a rivet in my life but the time is coming :lol:


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## kofkorn (Oct 9, 2014)

Rivets are fun! :twisted: 

I wouldn't remove anymore than absolutely necessary, especially since you're planning on Glove-it afterward. When you've had the chance to go back and re-align holes and rivet, you'll understand. 

I would look at a couple of options when it comes to riveters:

Manual route: Probably need two riveters, one high leverage version especially for the closed rivets, as these are hard to set, plus all of the rivets in easy access locations. 
https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-1423-13-Inch-Riveter/dp/B0039697ME/ref=sr_1_8

Plus a second low profile/maneuverable version for the harder to reach areas. The pivoting head is critical for a few rivets.
https://www.amazon.com/Arrow-RHT300-Swivel-shoots-16-Inch/dp/B00004Z2JM/ref=sr_1_12


Pneumatic route: Probably only need one gun that will set nearly all of your rivets, they are generally lower profile, and certainly easier on your hands.
https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-PR14-Air-Riveter/dp/B000MQ9H4W/ref=sr_1_1

For a number of the rivets that I had in tough locations, I had to get two hands around the grips of the smaller riveter and I had a hard time setting them. I'm not a small guy and on a couple of them I needed to take a break between squeezes. 

For my next build, I'm going to look into a pneumatic one to set 99% and use the small hand riveter for the ones that the pneumatic gun can't reach.

Good Luck!


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## Blake. (Oct 9, 2014)

My dad has a tracker 17' with a 40 hp evinrude ( I think) that we are going to be re-working soon. His has a storage box in front of the console where yours had nothing and it is level with the front deck so I think you'd be fine extending the deck, but I think his is a different year though so it may be slightly different.

Either way, will be checking this thread for tips and tricks!


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## kofkorn (Oct 10, 2014)

I remembered back to when I first got my boat, the PO had a little extra platform between the casting deck and console. It was level with the deck and I went back and found a picture:




So now you have a visual of how it will look.

Good luck!


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## jkitchene (Oct 13, 2014)

Got some time to work on the boat this past weekend. A little more cleanup needed (mud, old foam, etc.) and I hope to fill with water to the waterline to see where it is leaking. Should I worry about filling with water with no rear bulkhead support? I plan to pick up some aluminum angle this weekend to begin framing the new decks once I have fixed all leaks. The foam above the bottom 2 inches was solid and a pain to remove. The bottom foam however filled every drain channel and was soaking wet (heavy). There was also a lot of dirt/mud in the boat after 25 years of buildup. I'm considering going back with most of the original rear deck framed with aluminum angle versus spray in foam. If I never have to work with spray in foam again it will be too soon :shock:


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## kofkorn (Oct 14, 2014)

Looking good. With all of that foam gone, it should be easy to identify your leaking spots. 

Good luck!


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## typed by ben (Oct 14, 2014)

impressive progress. that boat probably lost 150 lbs this week.


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## KRS62 (Oct 14, 2014)

I have a 1988 version and just performed a water test on mine yesterday. Most of my leaks were along the keel. Just an FYI. While I may change my mind, I am at least thinking of maybe replacing all of the rivets. I had a lot of cracks on the very ends of the ribs. You might want to check the ribs around the very end rivets on yours just to be safe.


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## jkitchene (Oct 21, 2014)

Got a chance to leak test my boat this weekend. As expected I had a few leaking rivets and my livewell drain thru hull fitting is leaking as well. I also discovered I have 3 hull cracks on the port side at the end of my floor ribs. They are consecutive between the front deck and rear deck where the sides aren't supported by anything so it wasn't surprising based on what others on here have found. I plan to have them welded. Do I need to remove the ribs in the floor completely to have that done? I plan to add a rod locker down that side and I will tie it in to add strength to the side of the boat and hopefully avoid a repeat.

I also had a much closer look at some damage sustained on the nose of the boat by something falling on it before I bought it. I would like to have it cut out and replaced with thicker aluminum to level it. If not my front deck won't be level from the start. Do you think I can use .125" aluminum sheet welded in place of the current cap? I assume I will need to support it with aluminum angle or tubing underneath to add strength.

Hoping to start fixing leaking hull rivets this week. The welding requirements have me a bit bummed as I hadn't planned on that. I have yet to talk to a welder about it to understand my options and of course cost.


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## kofkorn (Oct 21, 2014)

For welding your cracks, talk with your welder and see what he says. It may be ok to weld in place, but there's a chance the weld will connect the rib to the skin. Also, your welder wouldn't be able to clean the back side of the weld which may introduce impurities into the weld. Welding a few cracks shouldn't be very expensive, I would guess between $50 and $100 max.

For your front cap, do you think you could hammer that back to flat?? It's not impossible to replace it, but I would guess that it won't be a quick job. For support on the underside, there should be a piece of 3/4" plywood underneath. From the looks of your damage, it appears that the areas where the plywood ended is where your aluminum bent. Have your welder look at that too. I'm guessing you could cut out the damaged area and weld a custom cut piece back in place. Not worth redoing the entire cap. You don't want to remove the plywood. If you do, that deck will flex every time you use your trolling motor. 

Keep it going! By next spring you'll have a brand new boat!


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## jkitchene (Oct 21, 2014)

I have a guy at work that is supposed to be a good tig welder. I'm hoping he is willing to help me out so I can get on with the build. I plan to replace the steering console with a smaller aluminum one to create more room up front. I will mount my switch panel there but I'm wondering what gauges everyone feels are important. I never really watched them while running the boat before and several of them didn't work to begin with. Would just a tach and a voltmeter on my cranking battery be fine? Just curious as to what dash gauges people feel are important. I get my speed from the Humminbird and I don't have power trim.


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## kofkorn (Oct 22, 2014)

Tach, Voltage, and Water Pressure are the ones that I use. I have a working speedometer, that I can't remember even glancing at. I also have a tilt/trim gauge that I don't use either.


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## jkitchene (Oct 27, 2014)

Finally got the boat tore down this weekend. A little more cleanup needed and then plan to apply the gluvit to all rivets on the inside of the hull. I have also spoke with a guy about welding my hull cracks and I'm hoping he will stop by this week to look at it. 

I'm anxious to get to a point where I can start framing out the new decks. I plan to use 5052 1/8" aluminum sheet for the floor and decks. What thickness aluminum sheet should I use inside hatches? I'm hoping to add a lot of storage under the soon to be extended front deck. I already have the 1" aluminum angle and tubing so I'm ready to go back together hopefully soon.


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## kofkorn (Oct 28, 2014)

Anything that you're not standing on can be simple 1/16" material. No reason to get fancy or add extra weight. 

Looking good. These boats are huge when everything is pulled out!


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## smackdaddy53 (Oct 29, 2014)

Cracks in aluminum can be a pain in the ass. 
If you weld them, drill 1/16" holes at the ends of the crack so the weld fills the hole and ends the crack or it will continue to pop up.


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## jkitchene (Oct 30, 2014)

Smackdaddy,

Would you recommend welding hull cracks from the inside or outside? No experience with this and not sure it matters. Thanks


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## smackdaddy53 (Oct 30, 2014)

It wouldn't hurt to put a piece of plate inside to keep from blowing through when welding from the outside.


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## jkitchene (Jan 19, 2015)

OK, I'm back working on the boat after deer and waterfowl hunting hard over the last several months. I have managed to get the cracks in the hull welded, all leaking rivets replaced, and gluvit on all rivets. I'm planning another leak test tomorrow to make sure everything I have done worked as expected. If so the framing will begin later this week. I have to be on the water in early March so feeling a bit anxious as that time will fly by. 

I have managed to get a new Minn Kota Maxxum 70 lb. trolling motor, Minn Kota MK330PC onboard charger, new bilge pump, and several other small items. Ordering my aluminum sheets this week for decking and compartments. I'm fired up to get back to work on the boat but nervous about how much time I have. All of this is new to me and of course I took it all apart and waited almost 3months to go back together with it. Wish me luck :LOL2:


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## WVfishnfool (Jan 20, 2015)

Check your transom board while you've got it torn down. My 89 model was rotten. Had to cut the cap off on the rear and pull it out. I'm going to rebuild one and glass it so it will last longer.


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## trackerpuzzle (Feb 11, 2015)

hi jkitchene , saw your question about the leds on the other thread. Your thread is one I have bookmarked for research for my project . lol 
And I had a question for you as well , so figured I would respond here. 

The leds I put on mine I got from Bass Pro , ( sure you can find them cheaper somewhere else) 
they had a couple different kinds,
UV-
White-
White/Blue- which is the one's I got .(switchable) Can't remember for sure how much they were , think like $15 or $20 





How did your crack welding turn out ? Got any pics of the repair? I have the same problems only on both sides #-o


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## jkitchene (Feb 11, 2015)

trackerpuzzle,
Welds turned out good, we left them built up a little and I have replaced the rivets and used 5200 on them. I have put Gluvit on every rivet and water tested the boat again and she is dry. Hopefully it will stay that way. I will try to snap some pics on the weld tomorrow as I'm hoping to get to work on it some tomorrow evening.


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## KRS62 (Feb 12, 2015)

Did you have any crack ribs? My project boat has several corners of the ribs cracked/broken off.

KRS


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## jkitchene (Feb 12, 2015)

KRS62, I didn't have any cracked ribs just the hull cracks between the rivets and the end of the ribs

Trackerpuzzle, I have attached a pic of one of the welds. They looked exactly like yours when we started. The lines you see that may appear like cracks are where the weld is built up and we didn't sand it all the way down to the hull. I have water tested it and all 6 welds held tight. Sorry for the poor pic, I was trying to lay on my back under the boat with my cell phone.


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## trackerpuzzle (Feb 13, 2015)

Hey thanks for the reply pic jkitchene ! Glad they sealed up for you. Hopefully I will get mine to the welder this weekend . 







KRS62 said:


> Did you have any crack ribs? My project boat has several corners of the ribs cracked/broken off.
> 
> KRS


I did have about an inch broke off of one , from the last rivet to the end


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## jkitchene (Feb 22, 2015)

Progress update:

All new thru hull fittings
New Bilge and aerator installed
Minn Kota Maxxum 70 lb. Thrust installed (not wired)
Seat box built and carpeted, still need to build hinged lids
New consoled installed and steering hooked back up
Rear deck near complete, waiting on new livewell from customlivewells.com before I can wrap it up
Front deck started, waiting on a rod locker lid and 2 hatches from Dawson at Fish On Fabrications

I'm hoping to get throttle cables replaced this week and side control mounted. Needing to get boat to my mechanic to check motor out as it was cutting out at higher RPM's last year. I have a new switch panel from New Wire Marine along with recirculating timer from Flow Rite that I hope to mount in the console this week. Hoping to start wiring next weekend if not before. I painted the new console but not real happy with the color, it was supposed to be darker. I'm pressed for time as I have my first tourney on March 15th so I may go back and repaint later. I still have a long way to go but making progress slowly but surely  Drilling into my thumb with a 5/16" drill bit slowed me down a bit this weekend


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## trackerpuzzle (Feb 22, 2015)

great progress!
Looking at that console also . Looks like a lot less wasted space. 
Keep the pics coming so I can figure out how to put mine back together :LOL2:


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## typed by ben (Feb 23, 2015)

jkitchene said:


> Drilling into my thumb with a 5/16" drill bit slowed me down a bit this weekend


no pictures of this crack repair??? lol


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## DarynCashmark (Mar 1, 2015)

jkitchene:
I am really digging your restore project! You have me re-thinking the way I did mine. I think I really like your console. I say I think, because I currently store some odds and ends under mine occasionally. I sometimes use the space under my console to store life jackets, and the boat cover, etc. However that is also where I mounted my new fuse panel and the fire extinguisher. I really like the openness under yours for easier access to everything. I just wonder if I would have trouble with the lighter stuff blowing out for under when trailering. (With my 25 Hp . I am not that worried about losing that stuff on the water...) :LOL2: 

Your build is really looking great so far. Keep up the good work!


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## jkitchene (Mar 1, 2015)

Thanks Daryn, I really like the console but will be extending the deck all the way to it. So it will be closed in but is MUCH smaller than my orginal and that gave me a lot more deck space that I'm adding hatches to. I didn't have much storage originally but will have a lot when I'm done. I'm working on it every night as I have to be ready for a tournament on 3/15. I about have it wired but still waiting on some critical items (hatches & livewell) before I can button it up. The hatches should be here this week and I'm hoping the livewell will be as well. I still have a long way to go and very little time but I'm giving it the ol' college try.


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## jkitchene (Mar 5, 2015)

I'm making progress for sure but it has been slow. Finished up my console and most of my wiring. My hatches from Dawson at Fish On Fabrications came in yesterday. We laid them in place to just give me an idea of what they would look like and I started framing them in last night. 

My rear compartment is almost done but waiting on my livewell to arrive (Monday or Tuesday) so I can finish plumbing it before mounting my 3 bank charger. 

My hope is to finish the wiring and the entire front deck this weekend including carpet. A lot to do there but I have limited time before I have to be on the water. It is coming together nicely and I can't wait to fish out of it.


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## JMill (Mar 5, 2015)

Man! That thing is gunna be frigging slick! Is that a rod locker in the middle? I initially wanted to add a rod locker in mine but opted to continue to strap them down. Those dingy rod tubes that came in the boat aren't good for much of anything. Again, looking awesome!


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## jkitchene (Mar 5, 2015)

Thanks JMill! Yes, the rod locker is in the middle. My buddy has that set up in his Lowe and I really like it. It will easily handle my 8 foot rods and being in the middle it is always clear to open. Any rods on the deck are always along the side. I also left as much room as I could along the side of the hatch next to it so I can open it with rods on the deck too. It is coming together nicely but I have to fish out of it next Sunday 3/15 so I need things to go well this weekend :lol:


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## jkitchene (Mar 8, 2015)

Well, I made some progress this weekend but not as much as I would have liked. I got my hatches from Dawson installed and the my front deck in place. I was hoping to get some carpet down but ran out of time. 

How critical do you think it is that I scuff up my new aluminum sheet before carpeting? I'm running out of time but don't want it coming up either.


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## kofkorn (Mar 9, 2015)

I think that keeping pressure on the carpet while the glue is curing is more important than scuffing the aluminum. Use some sand bags or feed bags and place them on top while curing. The tricky part is the vertical panel next to your console. When I pulled the original carpet off my Pro 17, I found that the vertical carpet behind the seats weren't well adhered as compared to the top surfaces. 

Either way, make sure you give it a couple of days before doing a lot of walking on it.

Good luck!


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## trackerpuzzle (Mar 28, 2015)

man that front deck turned out nice! great job


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## DarynCashmark (Apr 3, 2015)

Your build is really turning out nicely! I love your new storage and rod locker!!! Make sure to post some final pics. I, for one, am looking forward to seeing the awesome results of all your hard work.


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## KC_Bass_Fanatic (Apr 15, 2016)

Awesome looking build. I'm looking at a very similar boat next weekend ('89 Tracker Pro 17). It's definitely a 'project' boat so I'll be stealing some of your ideas! 

Is the deck extension from Fish On Fabrication stand alone or did you have to anchor it? Were they reasonably priced? This seems like the way to go.

The boat I'm looking at has no motor - is the transom set for a long shaft motor?

thanks!


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## Shoedawg (Apr 15, 2016)

Try using some DAP Weldwood for the carpet. Here is a link: https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Weldwood-32-fl-oz-Original-Contact-Cement-00272/100125525

I used it on bunks when I carpeted them, and it seems to be holding up very well. If it was me, I would scratch the decks up with something (sanding, abrasive pad, etc) to give it some "teeth" to give the glue and carpet to hold. I understand you got a time constraint, but don't rush the job on carpet on such an excellent build. If you do, you may have to redo the carpet job over again, adding more time and $$$MONEY$$$ to your project. Do it right the first time, and you'll be happy you did.


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## jkitchene (Apr 15, 2016)

Guys,

I finished up my boat about 3:30 am the morning of my first tourney last year. To be honest I wouldn't change a thing. I has tons of room and fishes great. The livewell has kept all of my fish alive as I have an aerator and separate recirculating pump w/timer. I bought 2 hatch lids and the rod locker lid from fish on fabrications. I framed them in with aluminum angle and everything is attached via rivets. I don't have any finished pics on my computer but can get some if you have questions. I did post a few of the last cell phone pics I snapped while trying to finish in a haste before tourney day.


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## Fire1386 (Apr 18, 2016)

Some final pics would be nice when you can..... I have a 92 Pro17. Looks very nice, good job.


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## riplip46 (Apr 18, 2016)

i have a 91 pro17 that i am wanting to do... wondering about the price from Fish On for the deck extension???


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