# Shallow Ramp Launching (updated with picture)



## HeavyHook (May 8, 2015)

Sorry as I imagine this has been discussed on here to great length but I am having trouble at a couple boat ramps with launching my boat into a shallow ramp. 

The boat is a 14ft MV and can float in shallow water fairly easily but when backing up I have to get my trucks tires far out to the point where I am almost covering my exhaust and even at that point the boat is unable to move off the bunks. 

The bunks I have are the standard style with a little bit of a plastic coating on them but it doesn't want to budge - I am new at this I'll admit so any tips would be appreciated. Yesterday with a buddies boat we were able to launch and retrieve fairly well but he has a bigger truck than mine so it worked out but its just too close to do with mine. 

I have read about:
- board slicks 
- attaching rollers
- adding some time of grease / silicone to the bunks 

What would work best? When retrieving I fear it will be even hard to do without having to walk into the water a good distance which I honestly do not mind but would like to make this as easy/safe as possible.


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## Skiffing (May 8, 2015)

Don't understand what you mean by a "little" plastic.

Can you post a picture?


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## HeavyHook (May 8, 2015)

Sorry - Its basically a cheap plastic coating wrap screwed into the bunks. It has ridges on it but doesn't seem to get slick at all when in the water like you would assume with other plastic sheets. I was not the original owner of the trailer so I have had to fix a bunch with it including the axle being completely rusted out causing it to snap in half... 

I saw people said to order custom cutting boards - Does this work well?


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## Ictalurus (May 8, 2015)

What about extending the trailer tongue?


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## vahunter (May 8, 2015)

Lower the bunks so the boat sits lower on the trailer. Smaller tires on the trailer. Extend trailer tongue. Bigger tires on your truck.

Haha lots of things may help. Without pics of your setup some options may be better than others but as mentioned, extending the trailer tongue may be best.


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## HeavyHook (May 8, 2015)

Extending the tongue isnt a bad idea - I was trying to avoid that but might have to. I did not realize you could lower the bunks... hmm


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## BigTerp (May 8, 2015)

Lowering your boat on the trailer as much as possible will help. I lowered mine until there was only about 1/8" clearance between the boat and trailer wheel wells. Helped a lot.


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## Skiffing (May 8, 2015)

hard to tell but looks like you can drop the bunks quite a bit.

Do the bunks extend past the transom? They should and will also help loading & unloading.

I just replaced mine and used a vinyl fence post cut in half to cover the 2X4 bunks. Boat slides off real easy now where before I was burying the exhaust.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (May 8, 2015)

It looks like you have 12" wheels and tires? If your not towing long distances you could get 8" wheels and tires.


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## Insanity (May 8, 2015)

My trailer tilts rite where the tongue goes into the Y section under the nose of the boat. Where the spray paint can is sitting. It has a catch on top to lock it shut. But you can see the bolt hole someone drilled threw it cause they didn't trust the latch. 
It shouldnt cost much for a welding shop to modify yours to tilt.


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## Insanity (May 8, 2015)

Sorry double pic and both are upside down. :mrgreen:


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## Insanity (May 8, 2015)

Hum by the looks of your boat / trailer you'd have to do some figureing/ moving the boat around to get it to tilt correctly. Or maybe just another roller under the boat behind the tilt to support the nose of the boat during tilt. 
I've never used mine no idea how well mine works.


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## JMichael (May 8, 2015)

Wow, that boat is in the nose bleed section. LoL I know most of this has already been said, but it's worth saying again. It looks like the bunks are at their highest setting/adjustment. I'd start by lowering them as much as possible. If the boat will fit between the fenders without hitting them then lower it all the way. You might even be able to mount the bunks flat if they are currently mounted on their sides. As already mentioned, a set of 8" tires will help. If your bunks are mounted flat or you can mount them that way, the idea mentioned above about the vinyl post split in half will work well. There are other options for other types of plastic but try to get something that's known to work well.


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## huntinfool (May 8, 2015)

I can't tell from your pic, but is your axle under your springs? You don't have much room between the fender and the tire, but putting the axle on top of the spring will lower the entire trailer. You'd have to change out the fenders. I don't know what your clearance would be, but it would be close I'd bet. 
I agree with lowering the bunks. Start there and see what you have when done. You may have to move them out some to allow the boat to sit lower too. 
Just depends on the whole set up.


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## richg99 (May 9, 2015)

All of the above advice is good.....

it wouldn't hurt to stop by Wally world and buy a can of silicone spray. Launch the boat, go fishing. When you come back the bunk-boards may be dry enough to apply a coating of spray.

recover your boat with the new slippery bunks.

relaunch the boat and see if it helps.

A couple of dollars might alleviate the sticking that you mentioned.

Lowering the bunks; flipping the axle; extending the tongue are all great and very well regarded fixes.

I am not in favor of the smaller wheels unless you don't expect to EVER tow very fast or very far.

richg99


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## HeavyHook (May 9, 2015)

Yes axle is under the springs which gives just barely enough clearance for tired under fender. I could modify the fenders so that I can move the axle on top of springs. 

I will try dropping the bunks down and getting an extension for the trailer - along with slicking up the bunks that should help I'd imagine. 

As a poster above has said the boat is in the nose bleed section right now which makes it difficult in any shallow ramp. The boat is light enough that if I dropped it 3-4 inches along with making it easier to slide off the bunks then I should be in much better shape. 

Now do I have to extend the trailer tongue or is there an extension I can use to extend the hitch so I can use it as spots needed instead of always having an extended trailer?


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## richg99 (May 9, 2015)

Some sail boat trailers ( due to the keel on the sailboat) must have extendable tongues.

The ones that I have seen have an inside sleeve and it pulls out when needed for launching.

A couple of very large metal pins slip in adjustment holes.

The one I found listed below seems to extend below the original hitch. Not a bad idea.
richg99

https://www.xtend-a-hitchnorthwest.com/


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## Insanity (May 9, 2015)

Look inside your sqaure tubing if it doesn't have to much of a weld bead protruding inside ( some do.) this will work. 
Measure the size or your square tubing and go by your local steel or welding shop and see what they have. Your looking for one with the outside diameter just small enough to slide into your tongues tubing. 
Warning they think a lot of square tubing it will be high price. 
Remove you hitch from the togue and slide that piece into it. Drill two sets of holes one where you want it to extend to and one where it will slide up to about where it is now. You could use receiver hitch pins for easy tool free removal. 
Now buy a hitch to fit your new piece of sqaure tubing that is protruding out from the inside of yours. You might want to check to make sure they have one that size first. If you want to bolt it back on. 
But I no when I bought a new one for mine it happened to be just an 1/8 th inch or so to small. So I'm betting they make a few. I cut a slit into the back of mine and drove it over the tubing and welded it on. You can fill the crack with weld or just bondo it full. 
Now the problem with this method is you'll have to unhitch from the trailer to extend it out. And the bolt holes will be a pain to line up. You can sharpen the end of the pin a little to make it easier when the holes are close to lining up. Prime the hole new piece. But only paint the part sticking out when it is extended and the pins are in the holes. Then when you slide it out you can see the end of the paint line and no the holes are lined up. 
The paint will scratch like heck when you slide it in and out . So it will not stay pretty for long. But the part sticking out when shortened wouldn't be scratched.
It would be easy to line the holes up when sliding in. If you weld something like a simple nut to the bottom of the tube to stop it when sliding it in. 
Did all that make sense? I'm a little tired.


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## frydaddy (May 10, 2015)

another option may be to coat the bottom of your boat with something. academy sells a product called coat it for 20 bucks. I used gator glide and can slide my boat around on the trailer easy.

most likely a combination of several of these suggestions will have you fixed right up.


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## HeavyHook (May 10, 2015)

Thanks everyone for the ideas and suggestions. 

I am going to launch the boat this week and then work on the trailer for a little to drop & grease the bunks. 

My buddy has a 24in hitch extension that I can connect to give me a little more room for launching - it's a light boat and I'll only use the extension when launching and not trailering for long distances. 

I imagine with dropping & greasing the bunks along with the extension I should be able to get 5-7 inches in total lower based off of height and distance compared to before. 

I will post pictures and height difference after so others can see just how much it works etc so they can do the same.


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## richg99 (May 10, 2015)

I don't know your water conditions, but a lot depends on the angle/pitch of the ramp and how high the water is at the time you launch.

If you launch at the same place or similarly configured ramps, one set-up may work all of the time. 

However, if you have tides; crosswinds; dam flow, etc. then, even though the boat launches great one time, the very next time you go you may need some other adjustment.

Good Luck.....richg99


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## HeavyHook (May 10, 2015)

I launch from a variety of ramps - the shallow ramp is the one in which I launch from the majority of time. It's a river that does fluctuate from time to time but majority of the time it's shallow as heck. 

I have a smaller ranger truck so I cannot get too far in water unlike other trucks so I am trying to give myself the safest way to launch as possible. 

I think dropping / greasing the bunks will help the best as it was very close last time. The extension I can take on and off depending on the ramp I go to - the extra 2 feet will make all the difference in my opinion.


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## Ictalurus (May 11, 2015)

Heavy

I saw those extensions at Northern Tool this weekend. I'm going to pick one up myself for shallow launch situations.


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## PSG-1 (May 11, 2015)

If you have a draw-tite hitch, you could always make an extension from a length of square tube, with a trailer ball on the end. My neighbor has an extension like this, because he launches behind his house. There's no ramp, he just backs the trailer into the marsh at high tide, and floats the boat off. The hitch extension allows him to do that without ever getting his back tires near the marsh line.


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## HeavyHook (May 11, 2015)

I was thinking about making the extension myself with the tubing and all but after pricing it out from local stores it came out to be just cheaper than finding an extension with coupon. 

I ended up getting my own extension that cost me $25 on craigslist for 24inches. (online they go for $100 plus which is crazy!)

I saw someone at the ramp the other day using two (12 inch extensions) connected to each other to make up the two feet! They guy bolted them together - he got to the ramp and realized its a shallow ramp - walked back and attached the extension and launched without a problem... 

I guess thats a way to go about it if you want to save money also as they have those 12 inch ones for very cheap... I wouldnt go pulling the boat long distances but for a quick launch I dont think Ive seen a better way haha


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## Ictalurus (May 11, 2015)

HeavyHook said:


> I ended up getting my own extension that cost me $25 on craigslist for 24inches. (online they go for $100 plus which is crazy!)



:shock: :shock: 

I was looking at the 18" extension, listed for $43. They have a 48" weld on, but I guess you could drill holes in it, for the same price.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200612675_200612675


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## HeavyHook (May 11, 2015)

18in one looks like it would do the job just fine. Thats a really good price also - everything I saw in Florida and online was for much more than that when it came to 24'' or more... Might as well save the money and just get the 18". 

I still am amazed the guy had two 12" extensions bolted together...


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## PSG-1 (May 11, 2015)

The one my neighbor uses is about 5 or 6 foot long. One day, after launching his boat, he forgot to remove the extension and drove to the store, or the post office....can't remember. LOL

Fortunately, no one ran into it.


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## HeavyHook (May 11, 2015)

PSG-1 said:


> The one my neighbor uses is about 5 or 6 foot long. One day, after launching his boat, he forgot to remove the extension and drove to the store, or the post office....can't remember. LOL
> 
> Fortunately, no one ran into it.




haha that would be a sight to see. For people that arent knowledgeable with boat / trailers they would wonder what the heck was oging on.


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## CMOS (May 12, 2015)

richg99 said:


> All of the above advice is good.....
> 
> it wouldn't hurt to stop by Wally world and buy a can of silicone spray. Launch the boat, go fishing. When you come back the bunk-boards may be dry enough to apply a coating of spray.
> 
> ...




Rich, I sorta have this same issue - hull sits pretty high. My trailer has 14" wheels, so I *AM* thinking about going to a smaller diameter wheel and tire. Bunks are as low as the brackets will go. Pic:



CMOS


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## RiverBottomOutdoors (May 12, 2015)

I just sling mine off the trailer. Little juice in reverse...slam the breaks. About 3 times and she comes off the trailer.


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## HeavyHook (May 12, 2015)

RiverBottomOutdoors said:


> I just sling mine off the trailer. Little juice in reverse...slam the breaks. About 3 times and she comes off the trailer.




:shock:


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## JMichael (May 12, 2015)

CMOS said:


> Rich, I sorta have this same issue - hull sits pretty high. My trailer has 14" wheels, so I *AM* thinking about going to a smaller diameter wheel and tire. Bunks are as low as the brackets will go. Pic:


I was faced with the same problem. 14" wheels and my brackets were as low as they would go(bunks mounted on edge). My solution was to remove the brackets completely and bolt the bunks down where they are laying directly on the frame (flat now, not on edge). Now mine rides lower than my brothers who has 13" wheels, with a flipped axle/spring setup, bunks laid flat, etc to get his as low as possible.


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## RiverBottomOutdoors (May 12, 2015)

HeavyHook said:


> RiverBottomOutdoors said:
> 
> 
> > I just sling mine off the trailer. Little juice in reverse...slam the breaks. About 3 times and she comes off the trailer.
> ...



It's an art...not a science. I launch my boat when the water floods the flood plains. Have an outboard jet too which helps me get it back on the trailer.


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## HeavyHook (May 12, 2015)

RiverBottomOutdoors said:


> HeavyHook said:
> 
> 
> > RiverBottomOutdoors said:
> ...




Im not judging haha I have seen some pro's out there at the ramp launch and retrieve within minutes - I am not that good just yet...


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## JMichael (May 12, 2015)

HeavyHook said:


> Im not judging haha I have seen some pro's out there at the ramp launch and retrieve within minutes - I am not that good just yet...



If you never learn anything else as a boat owner, learn to back a trailer up and get good at it. It doesn't mater if you take your boat/trailer to a big empty parking lot and practice backing up to a particular spot or how you do it. The lake I fish the majority of the time has a really wide ramp. Three boats can launch/load simultaneous when you've got owners that know how to maneuver a trailer. And boats will be launched in less than 3 minutes from the time they start backing up in most cases. Then there are "the other guys". They take up the whole ramp to the point that it's not safe to try and launch at the same time they do. They are so bad at backing up that they will actually resort to backing up until the trailer gets skewed to one side, then they get out of their vehicle (with help) and yank/drag the trailer back in line with where they are trying to get to. Or you get the guy that backs up 10 ft then pulls forward to start all over again, back and forth, over and over. #-o Once you've got that down, learn to recognize how far your trailer needs to go back to make launching/loading as easy as possible. I use the water level vs the height of my side bunks to make that determination easier. Doing these two things will be a huge step in making you look like one of the "pros" vs "the other guys".


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## RiverBottomOutdoors (May 12, 2015)

Not advocating "the slinging it off" method. I only do this when the water is so shallow that I can't float the boat off of the trailer. I launched once last year when the water not quite above the bunks.


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## richg99 (May 12, 2015)

There is nothing wrong with 8 inch wheels, especially with our light-weight boats. But, you are restricting your speed. Here in Texas, I have a two hour drive, at 70 mph , to get to the coast. 

richg99


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## sonny.barile (May 12, 2015)

Glide Sticks!!!!!!! You put them on your bunks and you not only launch easier, you can ride your boat up the trailer when recovering. 

I will never have a bunk trailer without them. Makes things very easy for single handling.


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## HeavyHook (May 12, 2015)

Tomorrow I am dropping the bunks and greasing them along with using the extension at the shallow water ramp I use and will see how that works. 

If that doesnt work or make much of an impact then I will try the guide slicks as I have heard great things about them.


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## Ictalurus (May 13, 2015)

sonny.barile said:


> Glide Sticks!!!!!!! You put them on your bunks and you not only launch easier, you can ride your boat up the trailer when recovering.
> 
> I will never have a bunk trailer without them. Makes things very easy for single handling.




Sonny,

There are so many glide sticks out there. I've tried some and didn't think they were all that slick, better than carpet, but I could still leave my boat unhooked at the bow and it wouldn't slide off. 

Could use post a link to the brand you use and like?

Thanks


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## RiverBottomOutdoors (May 13, 2015)

Ictalurus said:


> sonny.barile said:
> 
> 
> > Glide Sticks!!!!!!! You put them on your bunks and you not only launch easier, you can ride your boat up the trailer when recovering.
> ...



I have them on my trailer. I tried to push my boat off the trailer....wasn't happening. You are not going to overcome the inertia/friction of a boat that weighs several hundred pounds. That's why use the sling-it-off method - which might be easier to do with the slicks.


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## richg99 (May 13, 2015)

I've home made "slicks" from a number of materials. An earlier poster said he used plastic post covers. Sounds great! 

I cut up some garden lattice and countersunk stainless screws to hold it on.

Right now, my 1648 tinny has some PVC boards under it that I applied last fall. Bought them at Lowes for $12.00 I cannot attest to their wearability, since I put them on at the end of the Fall and haven't used the boat much since. richg99


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## HeavyHook (May 13, 2015)

Was not able to get pictures today but I went ahead and dropped the bunks as low as they could which was a total of 4inches. 

I also used the extension and barely had to get the tires wet this time when launching. (also used some wax on the bunks) 


With the bunks dropped / waxed / extension I stopped 4 - 4.5 feet shorter than last time... That to me is a tremendous improvement and it was much better - Feet did not get wet etc and everything went smoothly.


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## richg99 (May 13, 2015)

Good for you. Glad it all went well, and that you were successful.

richg99


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## sonny.barile (May 13, 2015)

Here is a link to what I have on my trailer:
https://www.basspro.com/EZ-Slide-Trailer-Pads/product/1072/

As far as not being able to overcome the inertia/friction of a boat weighing several hundred pounds.............

Think about it like this.
If you have a rectangular block weighing 200 pounds on a level flat rough surface like concrete you would need much more than 200 lbs of force to move it. The friction created by the rough surface needs to be considered along with the 200 lbs of weight. If you swap the concrete surface for one made of smooth teflon, you would only need a fraction above 200 lbs to move it. If the teflon surface was a ramp, you could move it with significantly less than 200 lbs of force in the declining direction.

Now apply this to what happens at a ramp with a boat. You are definitely gaining a mechanical advantage.


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## RiverBottomOutdoors (May 14, 2015)

sonny.barile said:


> Here is a link to what I have on my trailer:
> https://www.basspro.com/EZ-Slide-Trailer-Pads/product/1072/
> 
> As far as not being able to overcome the inertia/friction of a boat weighing several hundred pounds.............
> ...



Thinking is a side-effect of not knowing..........

Also...using a ramp does not produce a "mechanical advantage". A ramp trades force for distance. Using gravity is not a mechanical advantage either. There's also friction coefficient of the boat surface, slope, etc. My boat weighs 1000lbs. I'd gladly let you try to push it off the trailer....especially since I have already tried it. Theoretical physics (a stretch) vs. experimental.


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## Insanity (May 14, 2015)

Thought I was going to have to sling mine off yesterday. :mrgreen: 
My new motors added weight kept me from being able to let it just slide off the trailer as I hit the brakes. No problem I thought. There's no one even here. Il back it off with the motor. Kinda wanted the try that anyway.. Wow. That's not as easily done as it looks. The boat has to be floating. 
After two attempts to float the sucker. I resorted to letting the wake carry it off as I backed into the water. :mrgreen: 
Thinking I may have to get my tilt working. Lol. 
I can relate to you guys that can't push the boat off. Mine wasn't moving yesterday either. Even with wet bunks.


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## amk (May 14, 2015)

Get some gator glide or wet lander slick bottom and either paint your boards with it or the bottom of your boat and youll be able to push it right off. Its simple.


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## BigTerp (May 14, 2015)

amk said:


> Get some gator glide or wet lander slick bottom and either paint your boards with it or the bottom of your boat and youll be able to push it right off. Its simple.



Simple, yet expensive!!


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## amk (May 14, 2015)

depends on what you call expensive. $79 for a quart to paint your bunks which will paint them multiple times and twice that for a half gallon to paint your boat which gives you a lot of additional advantages.


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## BigTerp (May 14, 2015)

Didn't realize they sell them in quart containers. I was thinking $179 min. for the Gator Glide, and over $200 for the Wetlander. $79 still seems like a lot, to me, just to slick up your bunks though. 

I've been considering the Wetlander for my hull bottom for all the other reasons for awhile now. Just can't pull the trigger.


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## Skiffing (May 14, 2015)

18 bucks for a six foot 4"x4" vinyl post cover at Home Depot. Cut it in half and fasten sides into the bunk.

Also - your bunks do not extend past the transom. If they did you would take a lot of strain off the transom during towing [even with a transom saver] and make it easier to launch.


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## sonny.barile (May 14, 2015)

RiverBottomOutdoors said:


> sonny.barile said:
> 
> 
> > Here is a link to what I have on my trailer:
> ...



Rather than have a big back and forth on physics, I will just point out an article for those that are interested.
https://www.edinformatics.com/math_science/simple_machines/mechanical_advantage.htm


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## RiverBottomOutdoors (May 14, 2015)

Should have paid more attention in physics class. Could have sworn that a ramp does not produce mechanical advantage since it does not multiply force. Can't be right all the time. ;-)


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## overboard (May 14, 2015)

Only from experience!
I have a 1654 FB Tracker GRIZZLEY and have Teflon bunk slicks on the bunks. I think that boat is 460 lbs. bare, and I am well above that weight with all the gear and mods. 
I have launched and retrieved that boat at shallow launches where the bunks weren't even in the water and the boat was almost sitting level. Have to exert a little energy, but it can be done. 
I just modified another trailer for that boat, got the bunks a little lower, the outside bunks have plastic post covers on them and the middle bunk has the Teflon on it, also installed a longer tongue to get out further in the river. 
My main reason for setting up a different trailer was the amount of pressure I was putting on the bow eye when winching it up and over the bunks at some of the shallow launches that I use.


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## HeavyHook (May 19, 2015)

Thanks again everyone


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## amk (May 20, 2015)

you need a jack plate on that boat.


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## HeavyHook (May 20, 2015)

Haha yes yes I do. I'm trying my hardest to not do so much all the time to the boat and just enjoy it


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## nlester (May 20, 2015)

The Aussies have an interesting idea. They mount the spare tire on a hub so it rotates and basically make the trailer into a three wheeler. They use ropes or tow straps to control descent and retrieval.

Here is one example:
https://youtu.be/0fskmAjHmVA


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## richg99 (May 21, 2015)

Great idea. Pretty creative, those 'aussies.

richg99


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## NCRoughneck (May 21, 2015)

If you have carpeted bunks, before you load your boat back on the trailer on a warm day, take a block of "gulf canning wax" and rub it all over the carpeted bunks, it will slick them up and you will be able to slide the boat off with ease. Just reapply every so often when the wax has worn off the carpet.


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## motorhead (Oct 11, 2015)

What about before launching, unhooking your winch cable, running it to the back around the rear-most part of the trailer, and pulling forward, re-attaching it to the boat. You could winch it off...


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## Y_J (Oct 13, 2015)

motorhead said:


> What about before launching, unhooking your winch cable, running it to the back around the rear-most part of the trailer, and pulling forward, re-attaching it to the boat. You could winch it off...


Now why didn't I think of that. Even have a roller back there to run the strap around. Thanks...


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## AllOutdoors (Oct 14, 2015)

I didn't read the entire thread so this may have already mentioned. A tongue that can be extended. A friend made one and it works well for him. I have glide sticks mounted to the bunks that makes launching and loading my river pro easy.


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