# 15' Mirrocraft Modified V John Boat Conversion



## Nussy (Oct 10, 2009)

I found this forum about a month ago and was immediately bitten by the Tin Boat Bug!!! Having never done anything like this in the past, I'm hoping I haven't gotten in over my head. My goal is to complete this through a long Wisconsin winter, and be done for Spring Walleye fishing. The main think I was looking for was something 14' or longer with at least a 48" bottom width. After searching long and hard through Craigslist, I stumbled on to my find. It's a little nicer than many I looked at but for the price I couldn't pass it up and it's probably good it wasn't too big a project.

The first think I'm planning to do is repaint it. because it had a slow leak I'm planning on using Steelflex(the teflon stuff) in black($130 with color, shipping and COD charges, About $45 more than the regular stuff). According to Jerry at Fasco, all I should need to do is rough up the current paint. I flipped the boat over and have started the prep work. I've removed the stickers, tranducer, and reach handles. Sanded down the sides. the question I have for the forum is the bottom is just bare aluminum currently. Should I just sand that down to get it some grip or should I apply an etching primer to it also? See Pic Sanding 3. :?:


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## masterofillusion (Oct 10, 2009)

The only thing that sticks to aluminum is etch primer. You can buy it at an auto paint supply store. 50.00 a quart kit. That mixes 1 to 1 so you get 2 quarts total. I wouldn't trust the spray cans for that large of an area. Follow directions on the can, with steel flex over that, it will last.


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## shizzy77 (Oct 11, 2009)

I would scuff any surface you plan to paint.


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## Nussy (Oct 11, 2009)

Well I was able to get a coat of etching primer(green stuff) on all the bare aluminum. Tough to find but finally found some at an auto parts store. About $6/can. 


Followed that up with a coat of regular Rustoleum primer on the top half that I plan to paint. Not sure I needed it, but I figured I'd be safe and it only cost me about $5. 


Also did a test sample of paint color I have in mind.....Red Metallic....let me know what you think... 


Steelflex should be here tomorrow(black). Hoping to get get that done tomorrow night.

I'm thinking of spraying a coat of Clear Gloss Enamel over the paint to give it a little more shine and another protective layer. Anybody ever done it? Just wondering if it's a good idea or bad.


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## Nussy (Oct 12, 2009)

Put the Steelflex on tonight. What a nightmare. If you are expecting the finished product to look like a good paint job, DON'T use it!!! I was more concerned with sealing the leaks and I think it will definitely do that!!! It goes on more like tar than paint. I'll try to post some pictures once it dries also. 







*But here's my recommendation if I had to do it again.*

1. Go with the cheaper version. I went with the more expensive stuff because I thought with the Teflon it might go on easier. That's doubtful. Also with the regular version you can use multiple coats....not so with the Teflon version. (On my latest build I use the regular stuff. It's definitely the way to go)
2. Definitely work with a partner. I had a buddy mixing and pouring then going along with a foam brush over the rivets to make sure then were well covered. I followed behind with a 4 inch foam roller. 4" was a good size as it fit between the ribs really well. 
3. EDIT!!! Put it on THIN!!!. with this build I put it on think and had sagging. On my new build I put it on thin and that was the ticket. 
4. Get plenty of foam rollers. At least 10....you'll need to change them frequently from pushing this stuff around. 
5. Get a metal mixing attachment for a cordless drill to mix it. This stuff is think and you want to make sure you mix it well. 
6. Mix all the pigment with the hardener. Then mix equal parts resin & hardener. This will ensure a even color. 
7. Use gloves and tape off very well. It seams to get on everything. 
8. Is firms up fast but you have time to work with it. No need to rush. We mixed 4 cups at a time. 
9. If I had to do it again. I wouldn't go as far up the sides. I would simply go 3-4 inches up off the bottom. That will leave more room for paint which no doubt will look nicer. The good news for me was that it covered another row of rivets.





This is the texture it turns out on the side. There is really do way to make it smooth. Has a Pebble Like Texture. Might be smoother if you did the boat on it's size.


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## russ010 (Oct 19, 2009)

looking good man - can't wait to see your progress


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## Nussy (Oct 19, 2009)

Well I finally got the rest of the boat painted up. After much debate I decided to go with good old Rustoleum. I've not painted much and I figured it would be better screw up with cheap paint and do it over than to waste the expensive stuff. :LOL2: I did 4 light coats followed up with a 3 light coats Rustoleum Clear Coat. All Spray cans. The only mistake I made was doing it in my garage. It's pretty cold in WI this time of year and I wanted it to be heated to at least 70 when I did it. Unfortunately, I put down 2 drop cloths and that wasn't enough. I now have a Pink floor.  Here's some pics, now on to the flooring. Will hopefully start that this week.


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## russ010 (Oct 19, 2009)

that's awesome... i'm trying to decide how I want to paint mine - one color, two tone, or camo... right now I"m leaning towards leaving it like it is, but I really need to paint it before I do any mods... I guess I should get my butt in gear


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## jasper60103 (Oct 19, 2009)

Very nice!


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## Nussy (Oct 19, 2009)

russ010 said:


> that's awesome... i'm trying to decide how I want to paint mine - one color, two tone, or camo... right now I"m leaning towards leaving it like it is, but I really need to paint it before I do any mods... I guess I should get my butt in gear



I was surprised how easy the two tone came out. Just taped it off well and the lines came out great. I did it righ under the rib so that if it didn't turn out it would be hard to see. Only had a couple little hiccups where I had cut the steelflex back. Must not of cleaned it quite enough and the paint went on and got some little bubbles. Hard to notice unless you're right next to it however. 

If I had to do it again I'd only run the Steelflex to the water line. 

Good Luck.


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## cyberflexx (Oct 20, 2009)

looking good.. keep the pics coming!


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## CRAPPIE_SLAYER (Oct 20, 2009)

The 2 tone looks great! Keep them pics comming.


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## WhiteMoose (Oct 21, 2009)

Your boat looks sharp. Good to see that a rattle can paint job can look so nice. Are you leaving the inside bare?


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## Nussy (Oct 21, 2009)

Yeah it didn't turn out too bad. Not sure how durable it will be however. Got a couple good scratches when I flipped it upright....but I was in a hurry and did it about 24 hours after painting. Think the paint hadn't fully cured. I'll have to touch those up. 

The inside was painted white and in pretty decent shape so I decided to keep it. Not to mention the entire boat will be decked down about 3-4 inches from the top, so you'd only see a little bit. Some of the bracing I'm using was already in place and I decided I didn't the top of the floor red and the underside white. Inside will get a new floor and storage compartments, and new carpeting as well as some other electrical upgrades. Should have more pics this weekend. 

Stay tuned.


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## Nussy (Oct 21, 2009)

So here's a few pics of the inside. Your basic modified V jon boat with a livewell on the left and storage on the right. I can't take credit for all the aluminum bracing but the previous owner did a great job with the framing. He had strengthened the transom(probably could run a 100 HP if needed) :lol: . He had also bent aluminum stock for all the framing and did a fantastic job. Too bad he didn't finish it off right. He had just layed in treated plywood loose on top. Nothing fit right and you'd have to open some compartments just to open doors on others.
. On the way home one of the panels blew out of the boat. :shock: 

And here's what I plan to do with it. Back battery will run lights, bilge, radio, and rear trolling motor for electric only lakes. Front battery will run bow mount trolling motor and depth finder. Center rod locker, Flip up footwell so I can sit low will under power, then close it up to fish on a flat deck. Onboard charger, and other misc storage. 



Plan to use 3/4" plywood sealed with Thompson's water seal and Carpet from Cabelas. Still looking for ideas on where to get aluminum or stainless hinges and also any ideas on how to latch the hatch doors. Let me know if you have any ideas.


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## Nussy (Oct 25, 2009)

Well got the wood deck all cut out and in place yesterday. Had my weight tester jumping around to make sure it was stable. :LOL2:



Also sanded down the glue on the decks where the old carpet was. Waiting for my carpet from cabelas and trying to find aluminum hinges. Sounds like piano hinges are the way to go from what I've read/seen. Any advice? Also does anyone know if you can cut piano hinges?


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## Nussy (Oct 25, 2009)

Here's another view of the framing:


Battery on Upper left runs rear trolling motor, livewell, and all lights. 
Battery on Lower Right runs bowmount and bow depth finder. 
Onboard charger on lower left for both batteries
Rod Locker in the center
Small Square compartments center left is a flip hatch so I can sit lower while driving then close it to have a flat deck to fish from. 
Switches on upper right as shown below


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## 1436delta (Oct 25, 2009)

NUSSY IT LOOKS LIKE YOU ARE COMING ALONG VERY WELL THAT BOAT LOOKS GREAT KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK =D>


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## cathunter21 (Oct 25, 2009)

I hope you dont mind me asking where will you put your feet when under power?


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## Doug (Oct 25, 2009)

Progress is looking good, layout seems useful.


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## danmyersmn (Oct 25, 2009)

Nussy said:


> Plan to use 3/4" plywood sealed with Thompson's water seal and Carpet from Cabelas. Still looking for ideas on where to get aluminum or stainless hinges and also any ideas on how to latch the hatch doors. Let me know if you have any ideas.



Have you looked at the carpet at Lowes? I don't recall Cabelas having a very competitive price on carpet?


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## Nussy (Oct 25, 2009)

cathunter21 said:


> I hope you dont mind me asking where will you put your feet when under power?



I actually am going to have a flip up hatch right in front of the rear seat. If you look on page 2 you see the layout with "Flip up Footwell" I'll open it when I'm on big water and I'm using the gas motor. However most of my fishing is on an electric only lake so I'll be able sit high while running the rear trolling motor without issue. 

I thought this would make sense So it would be easier to fish from the rear seat.


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## Nussy (Oct 25, 2009)

danmyersmn said:


> Nussy said:
> 
> 
> > Plan to use 3/4" plywood sealed with Thompson's water seal and Carpet from Cabelas. Still looking for ideas on where to get aluminum or stainless hinges and also any ideas on how to latch the hatch doors. Let me know if you have any ideas.
> ...



Actually I didn't look at Lowe's. The closest one is about 40 miles from me. I check a bunch locally but I thought Cabela's was priced well. 3' x 8' for $20. They had a samples in the store and the reviews online seamed good. I even got free shipping on it. Link below. I'll let you know what I think of it once I put it in. 

https://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/standard-item.jsp?_DARGS=/cabelas/en/common/catalog/item-link.jsp_A&_DAV=MainCatcat21276-cat21298&id=0052218019473a&navCount=1&podId=0052218&parentId=cat21298&masterpathid=&navAction=push&catalogCode=IK&rid=&parentType=index&indexId=cat601233&hasJS=true


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## danmyersmn (Oct 26, 2009)

Nussy said:


> danmyersmn said:
> 
> 
> > Nussy said:
> ...



Excellent then! I haven't looked much into it. The bargain cave at the Cabela's in my town has had a roll of carpet in it all summer. The price is nothing to be excited about.


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## Nussy (Oct 30, 2009)

Well I got the carpeting started. The hard part of the carpeting is done, which is getting the center part of the deck with all the hatch frames done. It was a challenge because I'm trying to keep on piece of carpet with no seems the entire length of the boat and the deck, and the center deck is about 8 feet long and in 3 wood pieces. I also had some struggle with the spray adhesive I used to glue the carpet down. Let's just say I went through a few extra staples..... :lol: . 

In the pics the front and rear decks are not cut or glued yet, just the hatch framing. Should get that and most of the hatches done this weekend. The carpet is Cabela's Deluxe Marine carpet. Shipped to me in a 8 foot roll. It seams like pretty decent stuff.


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## Nussy (Nov 2, 2009)

Well I pretty much got the boat done. Got everything carpeted and the hatches installed, put the bow mount trolling motor and fish finder on. Put the batteries back in the boat. Installed the lights. About the only thing left are the vinyl numbers and decals and put the rear motors(Johnson 25 HP and Motorguide Varimax 55lb) on. 

I must say it was a lot of fun. Already trying to talk the wife into letting me get another project boat, since this was supposed to be my winter project and it's still fall. Only problem is I don't have anywhere to store another one. 

This site was a lot of help and I want to thank all that provided input and ideas!!!!! =D> 

Now hopefully I can get it out before it gets too cold up here in Wisconsin.









Here's a corner piece that was fabbed to be be able to install fishing lights and a trolling plug. 



Here's a look at how the guy before me reinforced the transom. It's really strong. 



Hope you like it.


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## dyeguy1212 (Nov 2, 2009)

looks freaking sweet man! great job!


if you get a chance, will you take some close ups of your hatches and hinges, etc? I'm trying to get a good feel for how to do it in a similar fashion, and itd really help me out


by the way, I hope youre taking that thing out before the spring..


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## Waterwings (Nov 2, 2009)

Great looking mod! =D> 8)


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## danmyersmn (Nov 3, 2009)

Gratz!! That is going to be one fun fishing rig!!!!


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## Doug (Nov 3, 2009)

Great job =D> . Now go out and fish and enjoy the fruits of your labor  .


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## Nussy (Nov 3, 2009)

dyeguy1212 said:


> looks freaking sweet man! great job!
> 
> 
> if you get a chance, will you take some close ups of your hatches and hinges, etc? I'm trying to get a good feel for how to do it in a similar fashion, and itd really help me out
> ...



Will do when I get back home(on the road for a few days). I decided to go with piano hinges and cut them to length. I believe they were 1.5": wide. With 3/4 on each side. Decided against stainless as 1 hinge was the same price as all the hinges. They seam to work ok and are hidden. Also used contact cement to attach the carpet. Had to trim the hatch lids down about 1/4 inch to fit....and they're pretty snug, but I did 1 to test. Stay tuned for close up pics later this week.


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## dyeguy1212 (Nov 3, 2009)

thanks, I appreciate it


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## Nussy (Nov 4, 2009)

dyeguy1212 said:


> looks freaking sweet man! great job!
> 
> 
> if you get a chance, will you take some close ups of your hatches and hinges, etc? I'm trying to get a good feel for how to do it in a similar fashion, and itd really help me out
> ...



Here's some more pics of the hatches and hinges. Hope it helps. 







What I liked about the piano hinges was then were well hidden and I could have them extend the full length of the doors if I wanted. 





A few other things I learned along the way that seam to work. 

1. I used DAP contact cement which worked OK. What I did was brush it on the wood and carpet an let it tack up.(I did try some spray on adhesive but it didn't seam to work as well) Once it was tacky I would set the wood on the carpet and take a rolling pin(thanks to another forum) and roll it out so that it was good and flat. Then I flipped it back over and added more contact cement to the board edge and carpet, dousing it really good. Waited a few more minutes then stapled it down. 
2. I didn't trim the bottom of the hatch until after everything was stapled. Then I trimmed off the excess so that the bottom of each hatch looked uniform. 
3. I didn't precut the underside corner. What i did was once I got the board glued to the the carpet I would fold the carpet over the corners so they overlapped and make one cut from the corner of the board toward the center. This allowed the carpet to be cut perfectly so that the each edge matched up ...regardless of if I was at a perfect 45 Degree Angle or not. 
4. I used a utility Knife but make sure to be constantly changing your blades. This made a huge impact on the quality of the cut and how much fraying the carpet had. 
5. I used piano hinged I bought at the local HW store. I bought the longest ones and cut them to the length I needed, which saves some $$$. Turn 1 30" in a 14" and 16" etc. 
6. Make sure to use enough Glue. I found a couple spot where there are some bubles in transition between my wood frame and the aluminum deck. They aren't big deals but if I would have had more glue I think I would have been fine. 
7. Sometimes I had to apply two coats of contact cement. If it's not sticky, add more. I even had put 3 coats of Thompson Water seal on the wood and in certain areas the contact cement soaked in a lot.

Good luck, I look forward to the pics.


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## Waterwings (Nov 4, 2009)

Looks good! The piano hinges will add more rigidity along the length of the hatch, and help prevent possible warpage of the board. Good tips also on always using a sharp blade to cut the carpet, and great tip (#3) on how to trim the corner folds of the carpet! Glad you liked the rolling pin trick


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## Nussy (Nov 4, 2009)

Thanks Waterwings that was a great tip.


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## dyeguy1212 (Nov 4, 2009)

Thanks nussy the pics cleared things up for me. Again, great job!


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## jsharp (Nov 5, 2009)

man looks good can you post some pics of the front of the boat i have a mod v and trying to figure out how to build the front like you have yours so i can put a bow mount trolling motor on it thanks alot


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## Nussy (Nov 5, 2009)

jsharp said:


> man looks good can you post some pics of the front of the boat i have a mod v and trying to figure out how to build the front like you have yours so i can put a bow mount trolling motor on it thanks alot



I don't know if pics will help now that everything is carpeted, because I carpeted that whole area. Here's a zoom of another pic I have before carpeting that shows that area. 



It was this way when I bough the boat. It looks like the guy used 3 pieces of aluminum to fill it in. Piece one fills in the top of the V and sits on the gunwalles and is Riveted into the Gunwalls. It also has a bend on the end that faces the rear of the boat that is used to connect to pieces 2 and 3. Pieces 2 and 3 are simply rectangular aluminum that is rivited to Piece 1 on the top and to the deck on the bottom with 1 simple bend as well. Piece one is also supported by what looks like a 2x6. The trolling motor is bolted through the aluminum and the 2x6.....and it's rock solid. The aluminum this guy used is pretty thick and heavy....not sure what gauge, however. The whole attachment makes a nice cubby hole and has allowed for the installation of lights and sockets in the face of it not to mention a good place to put your foot control or some speakers. 

Hope this helps.


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## jsharp (Nov 6, 2009)

thanks i could not tellm uch from that pic but i think i get the idea


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## Nick Jones (Nov 12, 2009)

Back to the SteelFlex: Did you use two coats or just one? Also, do you have to use a self etching primer for the steelflex. i know you have to in order for paint to stick to aluminum but i didn't know if the same went for the steelflex.


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## Nussy (Nov 13, 2009)

Nick Jones said:


> Back to the SteelFlex: Did you use two coats or just one? Also, do you have to use a self etching primer for the steelflex. i know you have to in order for paint to stick to aluminum but i didn't know if the same went for the steelflex.



I used the 2000 version which has teflon in it. According to Jerry at Fasco, you shouldn't do two coats because it may have trouble adhering to itself on the 2nd quote.. He also told me priming wasn't necessary just scuff it up good with 60-80 grit(yeah rough stuff). I have to agree with that recommendation. It adheres really well. My recommendation is put it on thick because it will self level. It also looks much better and goes on much easier and sets up faster if it's thicker. I was worried I wouldn't have enough but, I bought a gallon and didn't use it all I probably have 2-3 cups left over. 

If I had to do it again I would actually buy the cheaper version of the Steelflex. I thought the 2000 might look better but I doubt it does. It has a pebble like texture and I think with the teflon it might run/sag a bit more. Make sure to do it when it's 75 degrees or warmer. I live in WI and I did it in a heater garage. I don't think it was hot enough and it sagged an a few spot. If it's warmer it will set faster. If you plan to have a two tone, I would try to just run the steelflex to the waterline and paint above that. I wish I wouldn't have brought the Steelflex up so high on my boat, because the paint looks much better than the steelflex......but the steelflex was more about making sure the boat was sealed rather than the look.


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## rusmir (Jan 30, 2010)

nice work .. i like the little accesories u did .. like the switches and the little extras very nice ..


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## Nussy (Jan 30, 2010)

Thanks, I so much fun doing it, I'm doing another one now.


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## Nick Jones (Jan 30, 2010)

did you sell this one?


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## Nussy (Jan 31, 2010)

No, I still have this one. I just couldn't pass up the deal($550) on the new one I'm currently working on. I live on a small 50 acre lake electric only and the Mirro should be perfect for fishing on it. I can just pull the 25 Johnson off when I'm fishing at home The only problem is it's a little small for big water like Lake Michigan which is about 1/2 from me. The Sea Nymph would be better for that. Also with 2 small boys I'm a little concern the Mirro might not be deep enough. I have to sell one come spring, just not sure which one yet. Given the amount of time I have invested in the new one, it might be hard to let it go.


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## Nussy (May 2, 2010)

SOLD...$3200......made about $700 on the deal. So for the winter that was two boat build only ever got one in the water after it was completed. I decided to get something a bit bigger for my 3 year old and I to fish bigger water. Let the search begin.......


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