# '68 Mirrocraft Rebuild



## Fourbtgait (Sep 29, 2013)

Picked up a 14' deep fisherman two weeks ago, winter project.
2008 Trailer is in perfect shape.
2001 Johnson 25 hp, has a slight miss, already fixed the manual tilt mechanism.
Both the fishfinder and trolling motor are in perfect condition, batteries not to old.

But.......
Has an ugly camo job and the interior modifications are old.
Stern platform was built up 4" above the seat, tiller handle almost rubs.
Bow platform built up 2" above the seat.

Waiting for decent weather to see how the bow platform feels, though I do intend to lower and shorten it. The stern platform is already gone. Thinking of moving the 6 gallon fuel tank behind the seat just in front of the motor when I take it out just to see how it sits/runs.

Camo paint came off sides easy with a light coat of old brake fluid. The original green needed paint stripper, which turned it into goop that wiped off with a towel, then a wire brush wheel on angle grinder to clean it up.

Let's see if I can figure pictures out...


----------



## Fourbtgait (Sep 29, 2013)

Sorry the one picture is sideways, suggestion on how to turn it? Was not that way in the file.
Also learned the order they post in.
Transom original paint is a bear to get off. They must have sprayed it twice, lol.
I don't troll a lot, thinking of mounting the fishfinder transducer on the trolling motor.
Lots of holes above and below waterline to seal.
Will JB Weld work for below waterline also or better to use rivet/bolt with 5200?
Transom board is in decent shape but will replace it anyway so I don't have to later. Thinking of making it deeper, notice the aluminum transom flexs some tilting motor up and down.

More pics.


----------



## fool4fish1226 (Sep 30, 2013)

Looking good keep us posted :beer:


----------



## Fourbtgait (Sep 30, 2013)

I will Fool4fish.

I did some measuring before work, then wasted some time drawing a layout. I say wasted because when one compares dreams to reality, I need to rein my thoughts in some for layout, storage. 
It is a bit difficult in that I have not fully deconstructed the boat, weather is supposed to be good this weekend to head to the lake, see how things work as is and what to change. Current storage layout is a waste of space. 

My fishing will be local lakes, up to possibly 1,000 acres. Here we have a combination of warm and cold water species. So both casting and flyfishing.


----------



## bassfisherjk58 (Oct 1, 2013)

Nice Boat,can't wait to see it finished.That green paint must have been popular at the Mirrocraft factory.I have a 1985 14 ft' Mirrocraft that had the same color on it before I redid it.Good Luck!


----------



## Fourbtgait (Oct 1, 2013)

They must have gotten a really good deal on that paint, even the 1968 catalog shows them that green. Could not find a hint of primer under it, never had a paint react the way it does. 

I'm looking at the hull being white, topsides a deep forest green. I had those colors on a wood boat I built, thought they looked nice.

This weekends weather will be good though we have snow in the mountains. I'll fish some, test the boat for balance and such. I did move the 6 gallon fuel tank behind the seat, directly in front of the engine. I'll see how she runs, I could probably go with a smaller tank as it is. Thoughts?


----------



## Fourbtgait (Oct 5, 2013)

Took her out on the lake today for testing and some fishing. Ramp was not steep, so had to wade in the water launching and retrieving. Rear side guides on the trailer would help aligning for retrieval.

WOT she runs at 23 mph, gps speed. Has a very slight miss in the engine. Had the 6 gal fuel tank directly in front of the engine, so that weight and my own at the stern. 4-5 mph she does squat some. Plus the bottom of the hull is rough from old paint, keel gouge, etc.

No leaks in the hull at all. Glad I took the old rear deck/chair off, sat to high and about 30 pound of weight at the stern. Both the fish fibder and trolling motor work good, very few fish out today.

The stability of the hull with the front casting deck leaves a bit to be desired. I kept an eye on boat wakes, slowly got used to it but find I don't stand as far forward as I would like. For me the stability in front of the bow seat lacks. i stand more comfortable at the bow seat or just a tad behind it. Both batteries are just in front of the bow seat, so add in my 200 pound and the bow squats some. Really didn't care for the bass seat on it, preferred to just stand. If i put a pedestal seat up there, it will be lower, with a back.

Thinking of pulling the front deck off, lower it to the original seat height, extend it behind the bow seat 1' to maximum of 2'. Then move the batterries to just behind the bow seat, use the area in front of the bow seat for light storage, etc. this would help centralize the weight, possibly allowing more of a comfort factor farther to the bow.

The central seat I would like to remove, building a side hull bracing system to keep the stiffness, working in storage on each side. If I could, I would buy 2 3 gal fuel tanks, move them more forward on each side of the hull also for weight distribution. But thats doubtful with the curvature of the hull. But having a lower floor 6' long, 3-3 1/2' feet wide would be very nice for when the waves are a bit much. Possibly add in a seat base on the lower floor.

Planning on using as much aluminum for flooring supports as possible for weight savings, 1/2" ply for decking.


----------



## Fourbtgait (Oct 5, 2013)

Removed the front casting deck, took an hour and half. All the plywood was screwed down with sheet rock screws, half of those had the heads full of adhesive for the carpet. Plus....everything was also attached with construction adhesive. They used 5/8" ply for the casting deck, 1x4's under that, with chunks of 1x4 secured to the hull with more construction adhesive. The lower deck was made from 3/4" ply with no supports under it so it all took on a "U" shape.

I haven't pulled the seat out yet but found out that yes, they are a structural part, but...the seat top is made from 3 1x3's with sheet aluminum cover, the foam poured around over and around the wood. Hmmmmm. Instead of laying the casting floor on top of the seat, i could integrate it into the supports, running an aluminum angle from seat support to seat support. Loss of foam under the seat would be made up around and under the storage areas. 

I did look at dropping the casting deck lower, to the seam where hull sides/bottom is, but that would require fabricating a drop support beam for the hull. This would lower the center of gravity an additional 6" with very little loss of deck width.


----------



## Fourbtgait (Oct 6, 2013)

Stripped down, center seat removed, 90% clean inside.
Though the construction adhesive did not stick to the wood, it certainly sticks to the aluminum hull.
Finally used a heat gun and scraper to remove the majority of it. Will finish now with the heat gun and a razor blade scraper.
Also need to build a motor stand, left it on today to add weight to lift and drain the hull easier.

Thinking main floor 3'6" wide, need to review other builds to see what they did.
Read through the Coast Guard flotation requirements, they make sense and will calculate the foam this week. Had it in my mind that I could stuff the underfloor areas but after reviewing the regs and a couple articles, one should not rely on all low foam lest the hull turn turtle. Foam also needs to sit up high as in under the gunwales, which a tin boat lacks...


----------



## Fourbtgait (Oct 7, 2013)

Question on laying out the floor.
The consensous is to level the boat to get a level floor.
What part is everyone using as the level area?
The gunwale?
On the mirrocraft, if this is level, the seats are higher in the bow. At the same time, the keel towards the bow is lower.


----------



## fla_cracker (Oct 11, 2013)

Nice project.... It is the same model as mine. I'm just starting my build. https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=32073 it's probly gonna slow going for me.


I can't wait to see what you come up with...


----------



## Fourbtgait (Oct 11, 2013)

Thanks Fla. i had looked at yours before I posted also.
I did establish level after viewing several Mirrocrafts, realizing the chine where they rest in water is level with the gunwales. Floor level laid out on the ribs, main floor joists cut to length.
Did that while waiting on the new transom to cure.

Though the old transom had no rot, just bad weathering, I was surprised to find it had twisted/bowed in the center from motor weight 1". I added extra depth to the new transom to stradle the transom braces more and added a larger motor bolt cover plate.

New transom is made from exterior glued doug fir sturdifloor. This material has practically no voids like regular cdx will. Glued together with System Three epoxy, a layer of 6 oz fiberglass on the outer face, all surfaces coated with more epoxy. Two reasons for the fiberglass. Add a bit more stiffness to the transom but also because if doug fir is not sheathed, the sun will surface check it.


----------



## Fourbtgait (Oct 14, 2013)

Floor is in and braced. Need to determine the one seat base I will be installing, run extra supports.
Battery box supports in, 24 inches back from where it was, lowered down 4 inches from original location. 
Deciding on front deck layout, height, found out the front seat side wall brackets were designed out of level to the rear ones.
Hmmmm


----------



## fla_cracker (Oct 16, 2013)

Looking good.

Are those L channel or C channel? It's kinda hard to tell from the pic. Also, could you post up a rough sketch of the layout your shooting for?


Thanks


----------



## Fourbtgait (Oct 16, 2013)

Good morning,
They are 6031 angles, 1 1/2 and 1 1/4 inch.
I started off with a sketch like everyone else does and quickly realized you end up changing and adapting because our thoughts exceed the size of the hull. I am trying to keep balance low as we have a lot of wind year round, which leads me to debating the front deck height. Most people go at the top of the front bench seat, I will either do the same or drop it down 3". 
The main deck is as low/wide as possible and still allow drainage under the last joist/rib, I have 3/4" clearance.


----------



## cardinaljosh88 (Oct 17, 2013)

I'm curious as to why you remove the seating. Isn't that the flotation?


----------



## Fourbtgait (Oct 27, 2013)

Yes, the seat is for floatation, but as long as I replace the flotation amounts in other places, it will still float as per Coast Guard regulations. Removing the center seat provides me with a 5'6" long center flat deck. In this area I will put a pedestal seat base for use.
I also removed the rear seat but in the same location have built the framework for another. This one provides a cut out in the center to place the fuel tank under, out of the way and a bit more forward. Each side of it will hold flotation, along with more in the bottom of the two stern corner compartments.
The bow seat has also been removed, letting me lower the bow casting deck down 3" from top of seat, or an 8" step up from the center deck. Though i will have several large compartments under the bow deck, there will be enough void area to fill with foam to compensate for what has been removed. I do need to keep the foam high so the boat if it ever sinks, does not turn turtle.
I have repeatedly looked at other builds to pick up ideas on how to construct certain areas and adapt them to my build. I will admit that using aluminum is a pain, taking longer than wood, but also lighter.


----------



## bassfisherjk58 (Oct 29, 2013)

Very nice job,so far. I can't wait to see the finished boat.


----------



## cardinaljosh88 (Nov 7, 2013)

That is a sweet looking setup. I would love to get mine under way but I am having a hard time finding time between work and hunting. Until I do find the time I will enjoy watching other boats come together.


----------



## smackdaddy53 (Nov 8, 2013)

Looks great! It is amazing what a man can do with some angle, tubing, a saw and rivet gun


----------



## Fourbtgait (Nov 14, 2013)

Thanks Smackdaddy, though I am worried of the structural strength of the aluminum rivets.
I had two pieces joined with 2 pop rivets and was able to torque the rivets.
Stainless steel pop rivets are expensive, so looking at either self tapping screws or #8 bolts with lock nuts on pieces that are critical.
I do feel that the plywood would help add structural rigidity to the angle.
I hope to have the framework finished this weekend and will take some more pictures, but it can be difficult to see what things are with aluminum.
I am anxious to flip it so that I can finish the outside as that will be a bit of work in itself. 
Once the hull is painted though, then I can begin to plywood the interior storage compartments, add flotation and finish the deck aluminum for the final deck. Can't forget to run electrical conduit either.

Russell


----------



## Fourbtgait (Nov 14, 2013)

I do keep debating if I want to build any type of gunwale assembly in the main floor area. Reasons I keep hesitating is that I do not want to make it more than 6" in width at the top to keep from intruding upon the open area of the boat and sitting on the rear bench seat. Part of it would be used for open storage, then either end would be for flotation material. But overall, 6" wide at the top of it tapers down to not much at the curve of the hull, plus the total height would not be over about 11". Seems like a lot of work for what little I gain. 
I have thought of just running two angles down from the gunwale to the floor ribs to stiffen the hull and to attach rod holders on one side, maybe make a simple assembly to hold fish finder and cup holder on the other.


----------



## Fourbtgait (Nov 17, 2013)

A few pictures I took today. The basic interior frame is comple, all that is left is deck supports that will go in once I plywood the interior of each storage area. I am thinking of either 1/4" or 3/8" for the compartments, paint them all with a white outdoor deck paint.
The blue tape "x" in each picture designates a storage area.
I should be flipping the boat later this week to clean the bottom then start painting.
I took a look at the axle today, she looks straight, no camber built in, so may put the springs over the axle to lower it down 2-3". When I launch the boat, I have to put the rear wheels of the truck into the water about 6" deep.


----------



## Fourbtgait (Nov 23, 2013)

Finally got the insides far enough along and flipped her over to strip the bottom in preparation of painting her. I have been doing test painting on scrap after having read up on this forum and others about painting aluminum.


----------



## Fourbtgait (Nov 25, 2013)

When I was building the inside layout, I was wishing it was a 16' boat.

When I stripped the outside hull, I was wishing it was only 12' long.


----------



## rscottp (Nov 25, 2013)

Looks good! What are you going to do about the busted up keel?


----------



## Fourbtgait (Nov 25, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=335294#p335294 said:


> rscottp » 25 Nov 2013, 20:07[/url]"]Looks good! What are you going to do about the busted up keel?



First play with the Harbor Freight brazing rods out of curiosity.
If that frustrates me, take it to a shop have it welded.
Then grind clean to shape.


----------



## rscottp (Nov 26, 2013)

I will be interested to see how you do with those brazing rods. I tried some on my boat, alumaweld I think it was called. It kinda worked but the biggest issue was that the heat required really made the aluminum hull deflect and deform. It may work better on the keel because the aluminum seems much thicker. It has stayed where I put it on my boat after 2 seasons(I have now covered it with marine-tex). I don't think that I would use it again but I think it is good for some things.


----------



## Fourbtgait (Nov 28, 2013)

Happy Thanksgiving everyone.

I kept putting off fixing the keel because of all the horror stories I heard of brazing aluminum.
First attempt was easy, let it cool, ground it to rough shape, filled in some spots, ground again and I dont see why people have problems.

Final sand some spots including holes I filled, vacumm it, wipe it down with acetone then wash it with white vinegar to give it a light etch.
Hopefully then tomorrow morning I can prime it with Rustoleum aluminum primer and let it fully cure.


----------



## Fourbtgait (Nov 28, 2013)

Side view final rough in. The brazing material is hard.


----------



## rscottp (Nov 28, 2013)

Looks good as new, nice job. You're right that stuff is really hard, grinder a necessity.


----------



## Fourbtgait (Nov 29, 2013)

Primed today


----------



## Fourbtgait (Dec 2, 2013)

The aluminum primer said 48 hours to recoat, I let it sit 72 hours. Had to press really hard, work at it with a fingernail to even scratch it.
Scuffed it up, rolled and tipped a coat of bare metal primer with some black in it to make grey.
Bottom of hull will be Almond color, sides and stern deep, dark red.
Wish I had thinned the primer a bit more, it flowed nice but still has some brush marks. But then I am used to spraying everything I paint.
Will let the primer now sit for 96 hours, waiting on the hardener to show up.
That will give me time though to light sand, tape off the paint line.


----------



## Fourbtgait (Dec 7, 2013)

Sanded the bare metal primer down with 220 grit.
I would rather sand a 30' wood/epoxy hull down. The rivets are a pain to work around and not take the primer off of.
Wiped it down fully and rolled a 2nd coat of primer on. This time I did not tip it with a brush, thinned it a little more and gently rolled it 2 different directions.
It layed down nicely flat as it dried.
I will let it cure till Monday when I will sand it lightly, then tape it odd for the Almond bottom paint.
If I do it right, I can roll 2 coats of topcoat in an hour without sanding between them, let it cure 2-3 days.
Then light sand and put a third final top coat on and let it cure.


----------



## jb93 (Dec 12, 2013)

I have the same exact hull configuration. How did you figure out getting the floor level? Did you terminate the L brackets you riveted to the ribs at the same strake line from front to back or something else. Here is my bare hull. The bottom shape and v are exact same as your boat. If you want to pm me that would be great too. I sure need some help. Thanks!





[/URL][/img]


----------



## Fourbtgait (Dec 12, 2013)

Yours is very clean looking hull, at times I wish I had painted the interior before starting.

Though there is a lot of information on this forum, it seems most people are lookers and not commenters. I was a bit surprised, though I was basing that on the Jeep forum where any post typically gets several comments, suggestions, ideas, etc.

Since I never received an answer about leveling, I researched pictures online of Mirrocrafts sitting in the water. I noticed that the hulls with a motor attached sat pretty level in the water at the juncture of the side/bottom hull. There is a lip or ledge running fore and aft at that point with rivets spaced an inch on center. I leveled using this point, from stern to just forward of midship, then compared it with the gunwales themselves, finding both reasonably close.

I leveled the floor using a simple laser level I have from the stern forward, marking the ribs where it hit. So the floor ends up 46" wide in the stern to abot 40" or so at the step up. The forward deck I ran at a slope up of just over 1/4" per foot to take into account that the hull does not seem to have the reserve bouyancy in the bow. By doing this, as I move forward on the deck, it levels out instead of dipping down.

I was disappointed last night when I went to begin top coating that the rustoleum pro paint requires a 24 hour dry period before topcoating. I had thought I could put a second coat on within an hour. Just means it adds an extra day and an extra sanding as I want at minimum of 3 topcoats. The first coat rolled on just a bit thin, not fully covering, but giving a good basecoat.


----------



## Fourbtgait (Dec 12, 2013)

To expound upon leveling the floor with a laser, i made sure the hull was level both fore/aft, side to side. With a boat 45 years old one has to expect it is not perfectly square, even or anything else. You have to use your own judgement. The port gunwale was off a bit from the starboard even though all other aspects were level.

Oh well.

Leveling side to side was established using the gunwales at various places.
Once that was done, I had established the of the floor angles above the stern ribs at the centerline, 1 1/2" with a 1/2" air space below, giving me 2" of height.

The laser level I used, pictured below, shoots its beam out 1/2" above its flat base. I simply then laid 2 small pieces of 3/4" ply ocross 2 of the ribs at the centerline, making sure it was level with shims in all 4 directions. This had to be done so that I could slowly pivot the level to shine its beam on each rib from bow to stern, starboard to port. Where the beam hit the rib, I placed a mark with a marks all.

Pretty simple, quick.

As I laid the floor angles, I verified with a regular level that each was level side to side but also fore and aft with previous ones.


----------



## Gators5220 (Dec 13, 2013)

Lookin real purty man, nice job.


----------



## Fourbtgait (Dec 18, 2013)

First coat of Regal Red. Two more to go.
Thinking of putting a 1" wide black stripe at the transition line, sort of like how the blue tape looks.
Thoughts?


----------



## bigwave (Dec 19, 2013)

The paint job looks real good....closer to the end. =D>


----------



## Triple obsession (Dec 20, 2013)

Beautiful job =D> 

I planning on Almond for the bottom & interior on my Starcraft, but I couldn't decide on Regal red or a dark blue for the topside.
Red it will be.


----------



## rscottp (Dec 20, 2013)

Looks great! I would wait on the black stripe, live with the two tone for a while to see how you like it. You can always add it later, just my 2 cents!


----------



## Fourbtgait (Dec 21, 2013)

Finished the hull painting. Going to let it sit for 1-2 weeks and harden fully. Might wax the almond to seal the pores in the paint fully.
But yes, I have decided to wait on the black boot stripe.
I will also paint any of the interior of the hull that shows with the almond also. The white is just so glaringly white, the almond is clean, subtle.
I had thought of the dark blue also, but I think the regal red looks better.
The original Mirrocraft emblems where broken, but I've talked with Mirrocraft and will buy two simple name decals to go on the stern.
I need to replace one trailer roller, add a middle cross piece for another roller. The way the trailer is designed, there is no mid support of the bow when loading/unloading.
Still thinking of putting the axle over the springs. By doing so I would drop the hull 3" lower, but need to verify several things first.

Merry Christmas to all who read this build.


----------



## bigwave (Dec 21, 2013)

I would put a cross member and new roller. If you go that route it would also let you extend the bunk boards allowing for easier loading. The swivel bunks are great if your dropping in a river or flat, however they serve no purpose if you use a ramp. It will also distribute the weight of the boat more evenly under the axle. Just a suggestion. Your boat is turning out real nice.


----------



## Fourbtgait (Dec 21, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=336967#p336967 said:


> bigwave » 21 Dec 2013, 14:55[/url]"]I would put a cross member and new roller. If you go that route it would also let you extend the bunk boards allowing for easier loading. The swivel bunks are great if your dropping in a river or flat, however they serve no purpose if you use a ramp. It will also distribute the weight of the boat more evenly under the axle. Just a suggestion. Your boat is turning out real nice.



Yes, that is what I was thinking. Only ramps here basically, some shallow where the wheels of the truck are in water. I have thought of installing the cross member, roller and possibly extend the boards up to the cross member.


----------



## Fourbtgait (Jan 1, 2014)

Waiting on a new roller for the trailer before putting the boat back on the trailer. At least this way, the paint will have cured for over 2 weeks.

Here is the additions to the trailer. The old bunks were only 32" long, new ones just over 5' although i dont think the last 6-8" will contact the hull. Plus a roller for the keel at the new cross member for added support/stability. Will be a lot more stable when completeing the interior. When i put the hull back on the trailer, i may move the bunks outward the next holes which would stabalize it more, drop it maybe 1/2" lower.

I looked at moving the axle from under ther springs to over, it would gain me 2 3/4" lower, but when checking the tire clearance to the fender, trailer empty only gives me 2" clear. So much for that idea.

Happy new year ya'll


----------



## bigwave (Jan 2, 2014)

Looks good, I think you will be way more stable with that setup on the trailer.


----------



## Fourbtgait (Jan 3, 2014)

Flipped over with no scratches, back on the trailer.
Couple adjustments to the trailer supports, then prime/paint interior that shows.


----------



## bassfisherjk58 (Jan 3, 2014)

Color of the boat looks great.Happy New Year!


----------



## Fourbtgait (Jan 3, 2014)

And a happy New Year to you and everyone else.
Adjusted the trailer, putting the bunks out farther to the last holes. Should help stabalize it even more.
Found the tag on the trailer, it is rated for 1,250 pound capacity. Im guessing at the moment the boat weighs 325. Once I complete it, hang the motor, gear and all, if I have the tire/fender clearance still, I will revisit flipping the axle.
Tomorrow the fun begins again.


----------



## Fourbtgait (Jan 11, 2014)

I was asked for further clarification on how I leveled the floors. So here is a few pictures with descriptions.
First the hull needs to be as level as possible fore/aft, side/side and stable.
At the stern hull floor ribs, I put a piece of 3/4" plywood spanning 2 ribs. On top of this another piece of ply shimmed up at the front to make it level, verify level side to side. That way as the torpedo laser level is turned to hit each rib, it stays level.


----------



## Fourbtgait (Jan 11, 2014)

Inside of hull that shows primed, finish coated. Iner hull sides that are exposed are Almond. Inside lockers if the hull shows is white.
Spent the morning taking plastic and tape off.
Making poster board patterns for locker bottoms.
All lockers will be 1/4" ply, battery and fuel floors are 1/2" ply.


----------



## rscottp (Jan 11, 2014)

It really is looking great. Build looks tight!


----------



## Fourbtgait (Jan 18, 2014)

No matter how careful one is setting up the compartments, they are never perfectly square. Which then leaves one to make templates the cut and fit.
All compartments are finally boxed in, just have to remove the pieces and put 2 coats of sealer on them, one coat of white enamel.
While they dry for each coat, I will template and cout out any side pieces, then the 3 main floors.
Not getting much done at weeknights, started my spring exercise routine, plus keeping the dog and wife happy.
Heres a few pictures showing storage. Once I get the compartments completed, I still have some angles for the deck to install, including for the bow pedestal seat.


----------



## Humj7 (Jan 18, 2014)

Nice work ! Looks like you Nailed the color you where going for.


----------



## rscottp (Jan 18, 2014)

Your build is really coming together. Looks great!


----------



## Fourbtgait (Jan 20, 2014)

Had the day off work, got a fair amount done.


----------



## bigwave (Jan 21, 2014)

Very nice, everything is coming together nicely.....cant wait to see the finished product. =D> =D>


----------



## Fourbtgait (Jan 21, 2014)

Thanks Bigwave and others who have commented.
I realized this morning in my fog of sleep I need to recut one piece, do things in a certain order.
I need to clean the shop out before going farther, then complete the compartments, run conduit for what little electrical I will have, then install foam. The boat originally had 9 cu. ft. of foam, I calculate I will have 11 cu. ft., all of it above the floor board.
Big question is, when you guys have run the carpet, how much smaller was your plywood cut at the edge so it lays flat due to the carpet thickness?
3/16" for very tight fit?
1/4" better fit?


----------



## rscottp (Jan 21, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=339242#p339242 said:


> Fourbtgait » 21 Jan 2014, 10:57[/url]"]Thanks Bigwave and others who have commented.
> I realized this morning in my fog of sleep I need to recut one piece, do things in a certain order.
> I need to clean the shop out before going farther, then complete the compartments, run conduit for what little electrical I will have, then install foam. The boat originally had 9 cu. ft. of foam, I calculate I will have 11 cu. ft., all of it above the floor board.
> Big question is, when you guys have run the carpet, how much smaller was your plywood cut at the edge so it lays flat due to the carpet thickness?
> ...



I would think a 1/4" is better. I have an aluminum hatch from Lund that is carpeted and I think it has even more than a 1/4". The hatch I made on my old bow platform was really tight with the carpet, I think that was 3/16" or so.


----------



## Fourbtgait (Jan 26, 2014)

Thanks Rscottp.
Slow this week, pulled all the deck off and set it aside.
Fitted and riveted all the compartments in.
Pressure fit and minimal rivets, dab of 3m 5200 in each hole to seal the wood.
Each compartment will be final painted white.
Next is to finish all the deck angle, I need to run some for hatches and build the under deck support for the bow seat.
Thinking of routing the wireing in pex pipe for ease of bends.
Anyone try that? I can't remember from the builds I read.


----------



## Mel Kyper Sr (Feb 1, 2014)

Real nice job your doing on this boat. Nice colour choice.


----------



## Fourbtgait (Feb 1, 2014)

Thank you.
I think Im finished with all the angle for supports and compartments.
I will need to run some flat stock for fillers in places.
Now to run the electrical conduit.


----------



## Fourbtgait (Feb 2, 2014)

Spent the afternoon running pex pipe for conduit. Did a test pull with the cord for the fish finder and it slides well.
Just stiff working it thru nooks, but its all roughed in.
I may take a heat gun to help relax it for final fitting.
Bought some foam to begin filling it in once ive finalized the conduit.


----------



## Fourbtgait (Feb 9, 2014)

Making slow progress.
Workout program combined with finally getting snow.
Carpet is ordered.
Foam is basically in. If I could find a closed cell spray can foam for gaps I would use some.
Boat originally came with just under 9 cubic feet.
I calculate that I have just over 10 cubic feet installed.
I ended up putting some under the lower deck in the stern just to make up the amount in the stern.

Next up is installing flat bar filler pieces.
Then complete battery compartment and pull wire.
If I had to do the conduit over again, instead of the pex, I would just run smurf tube.


----------



## huntinfool (Feb 10, 2014)

Looks good. Keep at it.


----------



## rscottp (Feb 10, 2014)

Nice job on the foam! What is smurf tube? I have to run some kind of conduit for my wires and am not sure what to use.


----------



## Fourbtgait (Feb 10, 2014)

Smurf tube is a blue, light weight flexible, corragated conduit material. It is typically used in commercial construction for typical electrical work. I had forgotten anout it till after I ran the pex. 
For short runs you should be able to feed the wire or use a fish tape. Longer runs or bends probably have to use pull string that was vacumned thru it. 
Would have been easier and cleaner than the pex.


----------



## rscottp (Feb 10, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=341424#p341424 said:


> Fourbtgait » 10 Feb 2014, 12:47[/url]"]Smurf tube is a blue, light weight flexible, corragated conduit material. It is typically used in commercial construction for typical electrical work. I had forgotten anout it till after I ran the pex.
> For short runs you should be able to feed the wire or use a fish tape. Longer runs or bends probably have to use pull string that was vacumned thru it.
> Would have been easier and cleaner than the pex.



Thanks, I am gonna look into it. I am only going to need to run one tube and it will be pretty straight, I think it will have 3 wires and the throttle and shift cables in it.


----------



## Fourbtgait (Feb 15, 2014)

Another note to self;
When ordering carpet, add in extra for all the compartment doors. 
There is never enough just left over....


----------



## rscottp (Feb 15, 2014)

How many yards did you actually order, 72" goods?


----------



## Fourbtgait (Feb 15, 2014)

8' wide.
Ordered 16' for a boat 14'

Should have ordered 17'.......
Now I will have to do a minimum order 3' long but 6' wide.
Got it from Bass Pro

Not happy with myself.


----------



## Fourbtgait (Feb 23, 2014)

Carpet sure is a pain.
And once the plywood is cut to size using scrap carpet as spacers, cutting another 1/8" off wouldn't hurt.
Some of the pieces are tight fit now. Ran out of spray adhesive, only have the front deck, main lower decks left to wrap the carpet edges and secure.
At this rate, should be done by April.


----------



## rscottp (Feb 23, 2014)

Looks great! I am almost done doing my vinyl and it is a PITA, you are doing a good job with the carpet. Seems like you are about finished.


----------



## Fourbtgait (Feb 23, 2014)

Your vynal looks good though.
Finished all the carpet except for storage lids. I will tackle those tomorrow, cutting to size, sealing, carpet.
While they dry I will run all my wire, cut the foam out so the cup holders sit down.
The end takes the longest, little things.


----------



## Fourbtgait (Mar 9, 2014)

Lots of little things happening. Nothing major to take pictures of.
All the decking installed but one piece which is left off to make final wiring connections easier.
Seat bases bolted in place, compartment doors have last coat of sealant drying, bow/stern light wired in. Fish finder almost. 
Was playing with locating the trolling motor today. Forgot how it came off so need to find the directions. I want to bolt it down so the head when locked up is not outside the hull like before.

Completion maybe April 1?
Hummmmm, April fools day huh...


----------



## BR1 (Mar 10, 2014)

You've done a great job, thanks for all the pictures and information!


----------



## Fourbtgait (Mar 10, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=344379#p344379 said:


> BR1 » 09 Mar 2014, 21:30[/url]"]You've done a great job, thanks for all the pictures and information!



Thank you and you're welcome.
If you have specific questions, please feel free to ask.


----------



## Fourbtgait (Mar 16, 2014)

Almost done.
Most difficult part was putting the bow numbers on, a little crooked.
Need to register it early as the stickers I took off that are still valid wont stick.
A few odds and ends left to do such as gunwale braces, rod holders, trying to decide if I want to put a rear sear in to control the motor from.


----------



## huntinfool (Mar 17, 2014)

Great job, go get her wet!


----------



## Fourbtgait (Mar 17, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=345183#p345183 said:


> huntinfool » 17 Mar 2014, 06:30[/url]"]Great job, go get her wet!



Easy for you to say down there in Katy. Hows Conroe fishing now a days?

We have snow forcast in the mountains around us, only one lake nearby is open year round to fish. At least one that doesnt freeze over.


----------



## huntinfool (Mar 19, 2014)

Conroe in the 80's was phenomenal. Now there is hardly any shoreline left that doesn't have a house or something on it and the weekend ski, jet ski, and party boats is crazy. I'm talking about fishing 30 yards from the bank and casting towards the bank and have a jet ski come haulin' butt between you and the bank and catch or cut your line. 
CRAZY.
But there is some good fishing on the north end where there are more stumps and more natural shoreline.


----------



## huntinfool (Mar 19, 2014)

Pulled these two out the other day.
[attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1395231507310.jpg[/attachment]
Well I can only find the one right now.


----------



## Fourbtgait (Mar 24, 2014)

Finishing touches still, little things take time.
I do have a question about the outboard angle. I never have set up an outboard so advice is welcome.

When I bought the boat, the motor was set up on the angle shown in the one picture, one hole higher than middle. It ran about 22 mph, plowed some starting off, took a bit to get on plane. 

The other picture is with it set 2 notches down from original. One hole lower than middle.

I realize I will have to test it in the water, but any better idea for a starting point?


----------



## huntinfool (Mar 25, 2014)

You want the cavitation plate to be about even with the bottom of the hull. Hard to tell from the pic, but it looks like it might be OK.


----------



## rscottp (Mar 25, 2014)

Looks like motor was set way to high before, where you have it now should give you better performance. You should try it even lower and see how it runs.


----------



## Fourbtgait (Mar 25, 2014)

Thanks for the replies.
The cavitation plate sits about 1-1 1/2 inches below the bottom of the hull, I will get a better measurement tonight.
I was thinking of putting a 3/4-1 inch spacer on top of the transom to raise it up a little.

Yes, I do think that originally it was tilted to far and will just have to test it out.
From what I saw online, with an out board its a compromise.


----------



## rscottp (Mar 25, 2014)

I also put a hydrofoil on my rig and it seemed to help get on plane quicker and stay on plane at slower speeds.


----------

