# 3m 5200 surprises



## earl60446 (Apr 25, 2012)

Looked for a leak in my boat, found a piece of chine missing right where a rivet was supposed to go thru it. In any case, due to this forums recommendations, I went and bought some 3m 5200 to fix it.
How in the world did that piece of chine break off, I can't imagine.

It was white, clear would have been better for me.
Label said it was good for just about everything but no mention of aluminum???
Takes 2 days to get tacky
Takes a week to cure if spread on 1/8 inch thick (not going fishing anytime soon)
Labeled permanent (I sure hope so)

Tim


----------



## jigngrub (Apr 25, 2012)

You'd have been much better off with the Loc-tite marine epoxy, they have a 15 minute formula and a 2 hr formula, full cure in 24 hrs. and is specified for aluminum among other materials.


----------



## acabtp (Apr 26, 2012)

next time get fast cure 5200. it has a red label instead of a blue one and is fully cured in 24 hours.


----------



## FuzzyGrub (Apr 26, 2012)

I wouldn't use 5200 to plug holes. Sealing screws, hardware, etc it works great.


----------



## earl60446 (Apr 26, 2012)

acabtp said:


> next time get fast cure 5200. it has a red label instead of a blue one and is fully cured in 24 hours.



Well, I did not know there was more than one 5200, I would have gotten red label if I'd known. Not really a hole there either, just a rivet kinda sticking out of the hull and no chine to connect to. In any case, I hope this works and I will be spreading some more on in a day or two.

Tim


----------



## acabtp (Apr 26, 2012)

the big box stores around here just have the blue label 5200, i usually have to go to a marine supply place for the red label


----------



## Bigkat650 (Apr 26, 2012)

Blue label is fine if your not boating in over a week... 5200 is great stuff and should fix you right up.


----------



## PSG-1 (Apr 26, 2012)

5200 Fast cure sets faster, but it's my understanding that the slower curing 5200 is stronger.


----------



## acabtp (Apr 26, 2012)

PSG-1 said:


> 5200 Fast cure sets faster, but it's my understanding that the slower curing 5200 is stronger.


this is true. regular 5200 has 700 psi tensile strength and 1350% elongation before breaking while fast cure 5200 has 600 psi tensile strength and 925% elongation before breaking. still, either should be fine for any sealing purpose on a tin. note how much weaker the 4000 series adhesives are.
3M Marine Adhesives Brochure


----------



## Jdholmes (Apr 26, 2012)

Yep...it'll do you just fine. Lots of us use it for various purposes including small holes on a vertical surface...ie behind the transom.


----------



## PSG-1 (Apr 27, 2012)

acabtp said:


> PSG-1 said:
> 
> 
> > 5200 Fast cure sets faster, but it's my understanding that the slower curing 5200 is stronger.
> ...





Thanks for the info. I knew I'd heard that from someone, and always assumed it to be true, but the info confirms it. Either way, if you put something together with 5200, whether it's regular, or fast cure....it ain't coming apart, unless you've got some C-4 or shaped charges on hand.


----------



## Gators5220 (Apr 29, 2012)

I used this stuff on the cracks in my boat and it's awesome stuff...also all of my aluminum to aluminum surfaces I put 5200 on it to prevent noise and vibrations from causing later leaks, I think I caulked my boat around a year and a half ago and it's still holding up to the weather sun etc...

As always tight lines, cold beer, and Go Gators!

my build https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=25185


----------



## richg99 (Apr 29, 2012)

You can TOO get 5200 off "easily." 

Just apply a large chisel and a heavy sledge hammer ..... Ha ha....

It is GREAT stuff. rich


----------



## PSG-1 (Apr 29, 2012)

I made the mistake of installing the original jet pump in my boat with 5200. When the bearing went out, and the housing was shot, I had the pleasure of trying to remove that intake duct....what a PITA....I had to bust the thin cast aluminum housing all to heck, and pull it apart in little pieces.

Anti-Bond 2015 (supposedly the solvent used to release the bond of 5200) wouldn't even touch it.

After that I learned never to use 5200 on something unless it's going to be permanent!


----------



## richg99 (Apr 30, 2012)

I never tried it, but I'd think a soldering iron tip would soften it enough to pick it out, bit by bit. Not a good idea on a fiberglass boat,,but....maybe on a tinny. Rich


----------



## BloodStone (Apr 30, 2012)

*What about using JB Weld? When I take out screws or bolts out of aluminum boats (mainly the ones above the water line), I go with JB Weld. After it's fully cured (usually in 12 hours), I prime it, then paint over the repair. But I've also used 3M 5200 on holes near or below the waterline. And almost exclusively on fiberglass boats. I agree it's pretty good stuff (be careful not to get a lot of it on your fingers #-o ).*


----------



## richg99 (Apr 30, 2012)

To my knowledge...3M5200 is the only "stick-um" approved for below-water-line use. 

JB Weld is an epoxy and probably is somewhat more brittle. I use epoxy on lots of stuff, but not below the water line. Rich


----------

