# Free motor, well almost



## Howard (Mar 27, 2011)

I was given a 1996 2-stroke Evinrude 15 HP. It looks clean and was told it was up and running and well kept. Less then 100 hours. Took it out today for the first time. Started right up but here is my problem. Seemed to get up to 40% of its speed and then the motors rpm would countine to increase but not my speed. I guess this is happening when a load is put on it. If it was a car I would describe it as the clutch was slipping or not grabbing. I have a 1648 and no the motor is undersized but it feels like something else. I can tell it has been near or ran in salt water. Any help would be appreciated..


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Mar 27, 2011)

spun prop.


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## Howard (Mar 27, 2011)

> spun prop


 So the prop could broken inside?? This would be good news for me.  I guess I could see if it is spun by removing and inspecting? BTW, thanks....


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Mar 27, 2011)

You should put a mark on the hub and on the prop. Take the boat for a run then check to see if the marks still line up.


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## 200racing (Mar 27, 2011)

my 9.9 started acting like it was going into neutral under load. the rubber bushing had degraded. the shaft comes out your lower unit a brass peice fits over the splines then a peice of hard rubber is molded to that, then pressed into the prop.
i bought the rubber bushing and tried to press it in with a hydralic press and part of the inner prop shatterd. i ended up just buying a new prop with it already in it.


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## Howard (Mar 27, 2011)

I think I will just replace my prop since it looks to be the original. I took it off and it looks ok but I can not simulate the stress. Mine seems to be doing what yours (200racing) is doing. Marking it is a great idea.


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## Lil' Blue Rude (Mar 28, 2011)

You guys can call me crazy, I am an outboard jet guy so I could be wrong but shouldn't the prop be a little farther down. It kinda looks like it is a short shaft motor on a long shaft boat. 
Me and my uncle have done the same thing witha 9.9 evinrude short shaft. We got the motor running and we put it on the back of a boat with a 20" transom just to see if it was running right and it would take of and go good until it started to try to plane out and it couldn't because the motor started to cavitate or slip. We knew it was the wrong motor and boat combo, it just gave us something fun to do for the day.


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## minicuda (Mar 28, 2011)

Lil' Blue Rude said:


> You guys can call me crazy, I am an outboard jet guy so I could be wrong but shouldn't the prop be a little farther down. It kinda looks like it is a short shaft motor on a long shaft boat.
> Me and my uncle have done the same thing witha 9.9 evinrude short shaft. We got the motor running and we put it on the back of a boat with a 20" transom just to see if it was running right and it would take of and go good until it started to try to plane out and it couldn't because the motor started to cavitate or slip. We knew it was the wrong motor and boat combo, it just gave us something fun to do for the day.



I agree looks to high and the symptoms described could likely be a result of the prop cavitating


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## Bobg (Mar 28, 2011)

Lil' Blue Rude said:


> You guys can call me crazy, I am an outboard jet guy so I could be wrong but shouldn't the prop be a little farther down. It kinda looks like it is a short shaft motor on a long shaft boat.
> Me and my uncle have done the same thing witha 9.9 evinrude short shaft. We got the motor running and we put it on the back of a boat with a 20" transom just to see if it was running right and it would take of and go good until it started to try to plane out and it couldn't because the motor started to cavitate or slip. We knew it was the wrong motor and boat combo, it just gave us something fun to do for the day.



Definitely a cavitation problem. Short motor, 15" shaft, on a 20" transom.


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## Pappy (Mar 28, 2011)

Looks like a perfect opportunity for a set back plate and some serious cupping of the propeller or a 4 blade Solas with cupping. Or trade the engine for a 20" or find and extension kit (good luck) and install it. Or....cut your transom down.


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## Howard (Mar 28, 2011)

> You guys can call me crazy, I am an outboard jet guy so I could be wrong but shouldn't the prop be a little farther down. It kinda looks like it is a short shaft motor on a long shaft boat.



No not crazy, that's why I posted the pic. It was ran on a 1436 the weekend before withouth problem. My boat is a 1648. I will have that transom measured on the 1436. Mine is a 20" transom and this is a short shaft motor. Here are some more pics.

Extension kit sounds expensive. New prop sounds trial and error. Cutting transom might be my best bet if its not a spun hub.


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## Bobg (Mar 29, 2011)

Many on here have rigged several boats. I've probably rigged more than most. Even if you have a spun prop, and replace it, it won't correct the recommended procedure for rigging that short shaft engine on a boat that requires a long shaft motor.

See if you can borrow a prop that you know is good, to satisfy yourself that we know what we're talking about.


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## Howard (Mar 29, 2011)

> See if you can borrow a prop that you know is good, to satisfy yourself that we know what we're talking about.



Thanks, good idea or I just might mark and take it for a spin as on suggested.


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## Zum (Mar 29, 2011)

Nice motor and free at that.
Would the person who gave it to you mind if you sold/traded it for a long shaft outboard?
I know that make kicker brackets that can hold a 15hp or maybe you can get one fabed up.
That being said a 15hp on a 1648 is kinda small but maybe thats what you have to use?


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## Howard (Mar 29, 2011)

> Would the person who gave it to you mind if you sold/traded it for a long shaft outboard?
> I know that make kicker brackets that can hold a 15hp or maybe you can get one fabed up.
> That being said a 15hp on a 1648 is kinda small but maybe thats what you have to use?



I might trade for it. I know it is undersized but freebe and I don't go far on the water. Kicker bracket does not work , would need to make a custom one. Much easier for me to cut transom and cap. First I need to be 100% the prop is not spun.


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## Troutman3000 (Mar 30, 2011)

I think you could trade that for an older rude or johnson 25hp tiller. That's waht you need on that jon imo.


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## Howard (Mar 30, 2011)

> I think you could trade that for an older rude or johnson 25hp tiller. That's waht you need on that jon imo.



Understood, however I jump from Yargo, Bear Creek, Lanier all the time. On Lanier I don't go far from the ramp I launch that particular day so 15 is enough. 25 is too big for Yargo and no gas motors allowed at BC. A 15 allows me to take it off and on with ease. Kinda fits my style of fishing. I'm thinking I just need 2 boats


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## Brine (Mar 30, 2011)

Howard said:


> > I think you could trade that for an older rude or johnson 25hp tiller. That's waht you need on that jon imo.
> 
> 
> 
> Understood, however I jump from Yargo, Bear Creek, Lanier all the time. On Lanier I don't go far from the ramp I launch that particular day so 15 is enough. 25 is too big for Yargo and no gas motors allowed at BC. A 15 allows me to take it off and on with ease. Kinda fits my style of fishing. I'm thinking I just need 2 boats



The 15 is not legal at Yargo. Must be under 10hp at all state parks in GA.


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## Howard (Mar 30, 2011)

Yes, I know that.


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## Bugpac (Mar 30, 2011)

Howard, want to sell? Id like to buy


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## Howard (Mar 30, 2011)

> Howard, want to sell? Id like to buy



No, I just got it a week ago :lol: Would consider trade for the right long shaft...


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## benjineer (Mar 31, 2011)

Howard said:


> I'm thinking I just need 2 boats


Now you've got the right idea!


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## Bugpac (Mar 31, 2011)

Howard, dont waiste your money on a prop. There was a longshaft extension on ebay the other day for 135.00. The same piece fits from 71 to 99 or something along that line.


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## Bobg (Apr 1, 2011)

Would that be midsection, longer drive shaft, and exhaust tuner? Very good price if it includes all of that.


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## Bugpac (Apr 1, 2011)

Bobg said:


> Would that be midsection, longer drive shaft, and exhaust tuner? Very good price if it includes all of that.




I am not sure on the exhaust tuner. I didnt think they went that far down.


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## benjineer (Apr 1, 2011)

also need longer shift shaft, longer water tube


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## Howard (Apr 2, 2011)

Complete kit runs around $300. Too much IMO for what I want to accomplish. Trade or lowering transon is what I will do, this will not cost me.


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## Howard (Apr 25, 2011)

As you can see I went ahead and cut the transom. Plans are to cap and weld it. Hope this works! Nice thing is I found my wood to be in great shape as it was in question. Previous owner used it in salt water so now I can better flush out between the wood and aluminum.


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## Howard (May 5, 2011)

Well, problem solved. Did a test run tonight and I'm a happy tin man


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## Troutman3000 (May 5, 2011)

Howard said:


> Well, problem solved. Did a test run tonight and I'm a happy tin man


Awesome. Probably get a little better performance if you notch it back a spot or two to get it up a little higher. But if your happy with then thats all that matters.


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## Howard (May 6, 2011)

> Probably get a little better performance if you notch it back a spot or two to get it up a little higher. But if your happy with then thats all that matters.



Plate is now a 1 1/2" below hull. I was wondering if raising it a a couple of inches would help. Always heard it should be as close to even as possible. Just cut a bit to much buch can fill ....


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## Pappy (May 6, 2011)

Took ya' long enough to cut it! Was mentioned to you back on March 28th! Just teasing a little. Glad it worked out for you. Yes, you can pick up some performance with raising the engine. Would urge you to run the boat for a while and figure out where everything will end up (weightwise) and add everything you are going to add prior to raising the engine. When an engine is raised, in order to gain the most performance, keep in mind that you may have to modify or purchase a new propeller as well. There are several Jackplate manufacturers out there for you to choose from. I normally use Bob's adjustable plates when doing this. A ballpark figure on where your cavitation plate will end up will be around 1.5 - 2" above the bottom. This is measured with the plate parallel to the bottom, not trimmed in or out.


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## Howard (May 6, 2011)

> Took ya' long enough to cut it! Was mentioned to you back on March 28th! Just teasing a little



I know, but if I finish everthing I wont have a tin to fiddle with! Thanks for your help =D>


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## Bugpac (May 6, 2011)

Looks good, I was just gonna pm and see if you wanted to trade for a long shaft, lol!!


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## Howard (May 7, 2011)

> Looks good, I was just gonna pm and see if you wanted to trade for a long shaft, lol!!



Thanks, I was trying to wait but wanted to get up to Lanier. See ya around Yargo,,


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