# Trailer hubs/wheels: Between a rock and a hard place



## azekologi (Jul 15, 2011)

Ok gents,

I’ve done my research in the forums here, online, talked to dad, and had grandpa give the situation a once over. Now it’s time open the can of worms and toss the situation/problems at the trailer forum:

*Background:*

Through the collective wisdom of the TB community, I’ve been able to prioritize my boat goals into a logical order. Given the craft/trailer I bought a few years ago, the following projects need to be addressed: 1) Trailer – hubs, wheels, winch, 2) Boat – shade canopy/Bimini top, 3) Boat – pedestal padded seats. Now, these are the big things, of course there are a few minor projects that can easily fit in between. As we all know, sometimes it’s hard to add money to the boat fund, and it’s pretty easy to take from it to pay for something else that comes up. But I’ve wandered into a situation where I’ll have a couple a hundred bucks to put toward the first and most important project…the trailer.

*The problem:*

Well, there are several that stem from it being a 1963 “home-built” trailer. The issue at hand is that my regular fishing romps are about 125 miles (one way) from home. So, keeping up on trailer maintenance and avoiding a breakdown is key priority.
As it stands, I don’t have a spare (desperately need one of those), and my current wheels/hubs/bearings/etc. are in need of replacement. The decision here is how to make the best of what I already have, given my budget for this project.
So, the trailer: Like I said, 1963, homebuilt, with an oddball leaf spring for suspension that spans the width of the trailer (basically hub to hub, welded to the axel). 







The current wheels are two piece rims, which seem to be screwed together via a handful of bolts. 











I tore into the hubs to inspect the innards and found that the bearing seats are integrated into the wheels. The outside of the wheel, towards the center, where the axel comes through, is heavy steel, and formed directly from the wheel, the inside seems to be a fitted machined piece (pressed into the wheel). General consensus is that the manufacturer of the wheel (unknown) probably had it this way to use the same manufacturing process for a variety of wheel/axel/bearing setups. On one wheel, the machined/pressed cup is loose (not broken free, just loose) causing a small, 0.125-0.25”, play or “wobble” in the wheel with proper adjustment (you can’t adjust that play out at all).

On top of that, the bearings need replaced, as do the seals. I cleaned the bearing buddies (caked with a mixture of relatively new grease and some old hard stuff); the spring on one is still a little “sticky”, but I’m hoping it will work better once it’s back on with fresh grease.

Anyway, the bottom line is that at least one wheel and bearings for both sides need to be replaced. And I need a spare.

Well, while I was inspecting, tearing apart, and reassembling, I was also measuring and drawing a schematic as I knew finding replacement options was going to be a challenge. That’s where I’m stuck now:

So, I’m hoping to find 3 wheels with integrated bearing cups (2 replacements plus that illusive SPARE), or order a set of updated spindles with lugs AND 3 wheels. The problem I’m running into everywhere is that nothing is narrow enough from my existing spindle width:

Ok, from the outside going in, this is the setup:

Bearing buddy, cotter pin, castellated nut, keyed washer, outer bearing, inner bearing, keyed washer, grease seal.
The axel is 1”, having a threaded portion of 7/8”, the bearing-to-bearing distance 2 5/8” (outside distance from inner to outer bearing), with an overall spindle length of 4”.

I’ve read through nearly every thread about axels, spindles, hubs, bearings, and grease and have come up with the following products, that WON’T WORK (at least from the measurements, they don’t seem that they will):

Northern Tool:

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200442390_200442390

Not sure if this one would work, because there are not width specs for the hub, nor could their customer service provide any information about it.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200466886_200466886

Here’s another option, but a customer asked the question “What spindle length is required” and got the answer, “The length of this Ultra-Tow hub is 4-1/4 inches without the dust cap and 5-5/8 inches with the dust cap”. So I’m thinking this 4-1/4” hub won’t fit on my 4” spindle.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_48405_48405

These are the type of wheels I need if I don’t change the hubs, these won’t work of course as they’re 4.125” wide.

Trailer Parts Depot:

https://trailerpartsdepot.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=0002&eq=&Tp=

Won’t work: hub length equals 4.125”.

*Other thoughts:*

I’m in the market for a better trailer (preferably something with at least 13” wheels), but that’s not in the budget right now. At best, I’m looking for that Craigslist gem at an ultra low price, and hope to be the first mouse to the cheese.

Back to reality…so, I need a way to safely tow my boat on the existing trailer, with a way to change a tire in case of a flat.

To top it off, the next fishin’ trip is in a week…hope to have this wrapped up by then. If not, new bearings, grease, and crossed fingers for 300 miles.

*I’m open to any and all ideas.*


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## Wallijig (Jul 15, 2011)

My 2 cents....
Looks like you have to change wheel hub, bearings, as well as tire & rim if get a flat? For what it specialty needs & looks hassle of changing tire if did get a flat you are going to put more into it then it worth. I would look for a used trailer move you roller system & other useful parts to it. Then have one that has parts are more available and easier if have a flat. Be alot easier cheaper, & less stressfull if have a incident on road.

I have seen build your own trail kits at Northern tool, not sure of price, but could use as a base & put your parts on it.


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## BaitCaster (Jul 15, 2011)

Wallijig said:


> My 2 cents....
> Looks like you have to change wheel hub, bearings, as well as tire & rim if get a flat? For what it specialty needs & looks hassle of changing tire if did get a flat you are going to put more into it then it worth. I would look for a used trailer move you roller system & other useful parts to it. Then have one that has parts are more available and easier if have a flat. Be alot easier cheaper, & less stressfull if have a incident on road.
> 
> I have seen build your own trail kits at Northern tool, not sure of price, but could use as a base & put your parts on it.



I agree with Wallijig.


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## azekologi (Jul 15, 2011)

Yep, if you get a flat, you need to pull it all apart. :? Fun!

Unfortunately, I think you guys are right...a new (more-so, a new-to-me) trailer fixes all the problems. The problem at hand however, necessitates that I patch this one up for now, so I have something to tow my boat to the lake...otherwise I'm going to have to dry dock this season and I really don't want to do that.  

At this point, unless I can find something that will work, I'm going to put new bearings in it ($55 + $5 grease), and make sure I check it after each trip. I'm going to have by buddy look at the loose cup on the back side of the one wheel, and maybe weld it up (carefully) so we can eliminate the play. No matter how you cut it, the hub/wheel is a time bomb, and not having a spare (in my humble opinion) is just stupid (but what other options to I have, within budget, at this point)?

It probably wouldn't hurt to carry a mini (3oz cartridge) grease gun with me and give it a shot of grease each time I pull it out of the water (probably excessive, but I'm pretty positive there isn't a good seal, even if I replace the bearings and seals this weekend).

So, I'm going to continue to search for something that will work, patch up the problem with a weld, new bearings, grease, etc. And keep my fingers crossed when I tow it.

If I find something that works, or order a handful of stuff for test-fitting and make something work, I'll let you all know.

Meanwhile, I'm still open to CHEAPER options than getting a new trailer (although, I think it's becoming high on the list if I'd like to continue to take the boat out...and I do :mrgreen.


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## azekologi (Jul 15, 2011)

Found this:

https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/boa/2492835133.html

Thinking of taking a look at it this afternoon. I'll let you know what I find out in person, but it may be able fit the bill.

Thoughts?


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## bcbouy (Jul 15, 2011)

you should be able to find a complete 2000lb. axle for $200. thats the going price up here,and its always more $ in canada.


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## azekologi (Jul 15, 2011)

Ok, went and took a look at the CL trailer. Not too shabby. All the rollers, axel, winch mount/bracket, etc. are all held together will u-bolts, hence are completely adjustable.

The lights are brand new, the wiring is not as new as the lights but not original, and the dude cut the end off the harness so I can't really test if the wiring is good. He's willing to throw in a wiring kit, which is a sign that he's being nice, or doesn't want to change all the wiring...probably the latter.

The wheels aren't too grease-splattered, but new seals & bearings would be in order. The buddies were sludged up pretty good, to the point where a rubber mallet didn't get them off, but large channel-locks did. The zert was as dirty as the buddies, so I know that the clean grease that I saw when I pulled them off wasn't a new addition. The seller said he hasn't used the trailer in 2 years, and that he's only had it for 5-6, so I'm not sure what condition the bearings are in, but I'd be willing to guess they aren't that bad.

Tires are fairly new, not too warn, and not rotted. It has those darn 8.5" wheels, but the tires say 8.5 x 18.5, so they're pretty good sized. I'm guessing from the 5-lug pattern on the spindle, that I could easily move up to a 13-15" tire...depending on the fender situation.

Waiting to hear back from him on my negotiation, but we're somewhere between my $250 and his $300 asking price.

Whatja think?


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## crazymanme2 (Jul 15, 2011)

EZ Load trailers are well built.I had one under my 21 foot Slick Craft & never gave me a lick of problems.


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## azekologi (Jul 15, 2011)

crazymanme2 - 

Good to know, thanks for sharing.

It does seem pretty well put together. I stood (and bounced) on those fenders and they could definitely support my 200+lbs :shock: , impressive.

I'm not sure how well the rollers will work with the tri-ribbing I have down the bottom of my boat, but I'm sure that they're very adjustable. If they didn't work, different rollers would be a breeze to add on.

I'm gonna sit on it for a another hour or two, hoping to get the $275 price that I want [-o< , but I'll probably make the call in the next few hours so it doesn't get away from me.

I'll keep you guys posted.

Thanks all!


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## azekologi (Jul 15, 2011)

#-o Oh, one more thing...

The trailer is definitely heavier than my home built, but not what I would call a beast by any means.

It's probably overkill for my 12' tin :?:, but would leave with me some 'growing room' for a larger boat. The seller said it was currently set up to haul his 15', and I'd guess that it could easily fit a 16' boat with some minor adjustment.

I think it's in the comfortable area; not too big, but not too small...just about right. :wink:


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## Dragonman (Jul 15, 2011)

Get that new trailer, 300 miles is a long way to cross your fingers. That wobble would scare the crap outa me as i have seen a truck and trailer (house) crash on the highway. My wife and I seen it happen in front of us. We called 911, luckily no one was hurt badly. The trailer was swaying realy bad and all of a sudden the whole trailer and truck went over and over into a field. The house trailer exploded into a million pieces. Scary stuff. We stoped to help until the police arrived.


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## azekologi (Jul 16, 2011)

Dragonman said:


> Get that new trailer, 300 miles is a long way to cross your fingers.



Agreed.

I got the seller to agree to $275, so I'm going to p/u the trailer 1st thing in the morning. Once I get it safely home, I'll toss the boat on it, take some pics and post them here.

I'm guessing I'm going to have to monkey with the rollers to get a good fit, maybe even get some keel rollers like my current trailer has, but I know that I'll be better off with this trailer vs. throwing wasted money into the home-built.

Thanks ya'll.


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## azekologi (Jul 16, 2011)

Got the trailer this AM. Towed nicely (empty) on the way home, and when I put the boat on, it was almost a perfect fit 
(winch needs to be moved up less that 1ft, and the rollers are "ok", but could use fitting to the boat).

Just needs a TB.net sticker on the trailer, and I'm good to go. :wink: 

I'll toss up a picture today or tomorrow.


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## Dragonman (Jul 16, 2011)

Im glad the boat fit. Hopefuly the adjustments wont be too much trouble for you.


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## azekologi (Jul 20, 2011)

Ok gents,

Here's the boat/trailer once I've adjusted everything up to fit my boat (the trailer is a 1970 EZ-Loader):






Since I got the trailer I've moved the winch bracket to fit my boat; installed a new winch, added a spare tire holder, picked up a spare wheel/tire, repaired the plug that the last idiot cut off, and added some vintage safety chains from grandpa.

Still have a few odds and ends that I'd like to take care of, but those will have to wait until my buddy brings her back from camping/fishing this weekend. Basically, I want to add some amber LED clearance/running lights on the front of the fenders so I can see the trailer (at night in the tow vehicle mirrors), swap out the existing lights for LED, and weld an army ammo can to a steel plate that can be u-bolted to the tongue (for a spare set of bearings, rags, binders, and possibly a small grease gun).

Long term plans (maybe this winter or after next season) include a sandblast, primer, paint (black), possibly larger wheels than the stupid golf-cart 18.5 x 8.5 x 8's, and some PVC or welded guides (I have a removable idea that I'll put more thought into and toss up here when I finalize the design).

Anyway, thanks for looking.


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## PATRIOT2 (Aug 14, 2011)

azekologi said:


> . . . . possibly larger wheels than the stupid golf-cart 18.5 x 8.5 x 8's . . . .


 When you are ready to get rid of those stupid golf-cart tires and wheels let me know. I may interested if they are 6-ply rated.


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