# Old Alumacraft Shallow V, New Design



## Big Buck (Nov 9, 2008)

I finally bought one. I got this from a guy off of Craigs List for $500.00. It came with an 18 Horse Johnson, which a few guys have already told me how to convert that to a newer fuel line, thanks for that. I have not yet came up with an exact idea of what I want to do but I have started to paint. I have just got the bottom of the boat primered and hope to have it painted in the next couple of weeks. Time is short being deer season and all. If you have any ideas, please feel free to let me know. I plan on running a deck across the first two seats and a back deck and leaving just the section from the back seat to the next open. I would like to put the battery towards the front and put a trolling motor up front, a hand controlled for now, hopefully later I can upgrade to a foot controlled. I will try and keep pictures coming as I continue to work on it. I can't wait to get her finished. My goal is to have it completed by the spring crappie bite.


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## Waterwings (Nov 9, 2008)

Nice deal ! Gonna make a great fish-catchin' rig! 8)


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## dedawg1149 (Nov 9, 2008)

nice rig i have one just like it it fishes good =D>


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## evattman (Nov 9, 2008)

Lookin' Good!! opcorn: Ill be watching the progress!!


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## Cheeseball (Nov 9, 2008)

Sweet deal! Can't wait to see what you do with it.

If you want a suggestion on how to paint it. Maybe go with colors that represents something that you are into. Like a football teams colors, school colors... etc.


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## russ010 (Nov 9, 2008)

You are probably going to be more happy with that hand controlled TM as opposed to the foot control... if you do a foot control, make sure you set your front seat back far enough so that you have enough room to move it around and can get comfortable... that's something I messed up on big time. If you do end up doing a foot controlled, you might want to consider pre building a recessed box/hole in your front deck to put it


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## ben2go (Nov 10, 2008)

Lookin good.


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## Captain Ahab (Nov 10, 2008)

Nice rig!

I think your idea is perfect - deck from the middle forward and put in a pedestal seat. I suggest putting a low deck in the rear just so the floor is level.

If you move the batter forward build the battery compartment large enough to hold two batteries (or make two compartments) that way when you add a trolling motor you can install a dedicated battery.

Also, run a section of PVC pipe under teh deck on each side so you can easily bring electrical wires under the deck without having to remove everything


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## Big Buck (Nov 10, 2008)

I am planning on running all eletrical to a fuse panel/switchboard back by the seat by the motor that way I can turn on/off my lights, areator, etc and then run a plug in to the front for the trolling motor and then also installing a 12 volt plug to run a spot light, etc. The pvc pipe will work great to keep the wires neet, dry and out of the way. Thanks for the input. 

My boat does not have a drain either. Would you suggest just putting in a drain plug in the back at the bottom of the boat, or just put a bilge pump and putting a drain towards the top of the transom. I also need to put a drain for the livewell. I hope you guys have some ideas for me.

Also, I am sure someone has said something on here about a good paint to use, but i can not find a post on here. I am not wanting to spend alot and plan on using my wagnor power painter to paint it. Does anyone have a good paint brand to use. Can I use just regular outdoor paint? Or is there a special brand that I need to use?

Thanks


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## ben2go (Nov 10, 2008)

I brought this up recently about using tractor and implement paint.Just don't forget to use the recommended hardner as directed.Here's the link.There are others in the list of modded boats.

https://tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=5338&hilit=tractor+paint


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## Big Buck (Nov 10, 2008)

I have been reading and from what I have seen everyone recommends zinc cromite primer. Does this have to be used? I just used regular automotive primer in a spray can from O'Riley's. Will this not work? I hope that it will be ok, i really don't want to have to start all over.

Thanks


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## ben2go (Nov 10, 2008)

As long as the hull was prep properly and the primer mixed and applied properly it should be fine.Auto paints don't do well submerged in water.Primer will be covered by paint so it's should be ok.


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## Big Buck (Nov 17, 2008)

Well I found time this weekend to get my first coat of paint on the old boat. I still have to get one more on there and I hope the weather is going to coroporate with me this weekend so I can get the final coat on. After that hopefully I can get to work on replacing the old chip board that they used on the transom. I plan on using 1/2 inch plywood, that I am going to treat and then covering that with 1/4 sheet metal and then using silcone around the edge of the sheet metal to seal off the wood. The project is coming along good so far, I also was able to pick up a livewell system this weekend and have also began work on my cooler. I got it painted tonight and also picked up a rocker swicth panel to install as well. Let me know what you guys think of the paint, I will try to get pictures of the livewell up soon.

Marc


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## Cheeseball (Nov 17, 2008)

Lookin good! I like the color. Are you gonna cammo it?


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## Waterwings (Nov 17, 2008)

Paint job looks good! 8)


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## Big Buck (Nov 17, 2008)

I don't think that I am going to Camo it out. I was going for the original olive drab green that you see on jon boats. It may be a little darker, but I think that it turned out good.


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## ben2go (Nov 18, 2008)

Looks good to me.Is that a test pond in the back ground of the third picture? :mrgreen:


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## Big Buck (Nov 18, 2008)

ben2go said:


> Looks good to me.Is that a test pond in the back ground of the third picture? :mrgreen:



It is our pond, and I am planning on trying the boat out down there. It's nice to have a pond for stuff like that. Now if I could just get some fish for it we would be all set.


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## Big Buck (Nov 19, 2008)

Well I was able to find time last night to finish up my livewell. I have posted pics below. I bought a livewell kit from Basspro over the weekend and just used an old cooler that I had and painted it to match the boat. The only bad thing about the pump I got is that I have to manually fill the livewell. It will only pump water out, but oh well for now it will work.

I also took the handles off as you can see in the last picture and going to use those for bungee strap holders. I think that they will work perfectly. I am going to paint those as well to match the cooler, not really sure what I was thinking when i taped those up. It don't even look right, lol.


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## Jim (Nov 19, 2008)

Looking good so far! Paint looks great! :beer:


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## ben2go (Nov 19, 2008)

You could use a 2nd bilge pump, with a hose attached, to fill the cooler.Drop it over the side,turn it on,and fill up.


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## Big Buck (Nov 26, 2008)

I finally had some time off work and finsihed painting the boat. It was too cold out to use the power painter so I had to move it back into my garage and use a small 4" fine metal roller to put on the last couple of coats. I just have to get it back on the trailer this weekend and I can finally start on the fun stuff. I was messing around and decided to go ahead and take off the transom mount on the back of the boat (see below). I am planning on using plywood and covering that with 1/8" sheet metal and using silcone around the edges to seal it off. Hope to have some more pictures up after this weekend with some major improvements done. Everyone have a Great Thanksgiving!!!! :beer:


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## Big Buck (Dec 8, 2008)

This was a great weekend for working on the boat, I don't think that I left the garage this weekend except to go to Ace a couple of times. I got a lot done, but most importantly I finished up the Transom. I have posted pics below. I also got most of my wiring done and completely installed my livewell as well. I will have pics of those when they are completely finished and I have them looking nice. Let me know what you guys think.


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## ben2go (Dec 8, 2008)

Looks good. =D>


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## Big Buck (Dec 9, 2008)

Well, I had some more free time last night and made a few more mod's to the ole' boat. I started by cutting out a portion of my front deck. I still plan on decking back to the middle seat as well, but will have to get another sheet of plywood and lay across to the boat since the boat is wider than 4 foot. Anyways, then I stole an idea from Old Bill and made my own fishfinder holder. I love it, I think that is one of the neatest things I have done so far. I would have never thought of something like that. I it is perfect to see while driving down the lake. Great job Old Bill =D> . Anyways, I have attached some more pictures for you all to see.


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## Big Buck (Dec 11, 2008)

I am going to begin to work on the floor in the back of the boat. Do you guys think that it will be alright to screw 2x2's to the bottom of the seat across to the other seat for my floor to set on? Or will this put to much tension on my seats and cause them to start pulling away from the sides of the boat? Its an old boat, seems to be in really good shape but I don't want to do alot of harm to her if I don't have to. I thought if I could do that it would be easier that building a frame for the bottom of a boat that really don't have a flat part to it, with the cruvature of the bottom. Let me know what you guys think. I have tried to draw the braces on the picture below, never been know for my artisic abilities, but hope it helps explain what I was trying to say. Then my flooring will set on top of those braces.


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## ben2go (Dec 11, 2008)

I'd build a frame.The seat metal will crack and tear out over time.Especially with people walking on it.


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## Big Buck (Dec 11, 2008)

ben2go said:


> I'd build a frame.The seat metal will crack and tear out over time.Especially with people walking on it.



What do you think if I put braces that go from the braces down to the floor, would that help distribute the weight and take the pressure off of the seat? Just an Idea?


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## Jim (Dec 13, 2008)

Are you worried about anchoring the bracing to the floor?


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## ben2go (Dec 13, 2008)

Big Buck said:


> ben2go said:
> 
> 
> > I'd build a frame.The seat metal will crack and tear out over time.Especially with people walking on it.
> ...




That's the way I'd do it.Run braces down to the ribs, that run across the bottom of the boat.


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## Big Buck (Dec 18, 2008)

Well guys, I am finally seeing my project take shape and let me tell you I am loving every minute of it, not sure the wife is (Spending alot of time in the garage) but then again maybe she is, doesn't seem to be complaing about it, lol :lol: I am still not sure if I want to use the seat pedastool that is shown, I picked that up at Dicks this weekend for a buck, I figured if I don't like it I am not out much, but I really think that I want one this is removeable, I really don't ever sit down when I am bass fishing, only need a seat for Crappie and Catfish, so therefore I need a seat that I can remove. Anyways, I was able to go ahead and get my center deck cut last night as well as cut out the hole for the livewell. I need your guys opinion on this part. On the livewell I would like it to fit really tight in there like it is now, so is it ok not to tuck the carpet under the deck around the livewell or is it imparitive that I do so? Need some help on this. I have attached some picture below of the progress. I also had some spare 1" PVC laying around so I built a guide and hopefully a place to mount my lights, not sure if they are going to be stable enough to hold them while driving down the highway, so if you have any ideas on a way to beef those up as well please do tell. Hope you enjoy the pics. :beer:


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## bAcKpAiN (Dec 18, 2008)

Looking good there =D>


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## who pooted? (Dec 19, 2008)

Awesome boat Buck! After all this Christmas stuff is over my wife will not be seing me for a while as well. Hope you and yours have a merry one!


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## ben2go (Dec 19, 2008)

Goo work.It's coming along nicely.I would roll the carpet around the edges where the live well cooler is.It will prevent chafing and help it to last longer.Also a piece of carpet on the areas where the bottom of the cooler will prevent chafing and leaks.


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## Big Buck (Dec 22, 2008)

I didn't have much time this weekend to work on the boat, but I did find time to make a compartment for the switch panel, areator switch and a place for a few bait boxes. It is nothing special but I really like the way it looks. I also started to frame up the front deck, I don't have pics of that yet but I will try to get those up tom. I am using 2x4's for the front and then going to use 2x2's in the back. I also went and got a rubbermaid tub and framed that into my deck for storage, just need to get the door cut out for that. Well if I don't get anymore pics up before Christmas, I hope you all have a Merry One!!!. \/


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## russ010 (Dec 22, 2008)

Wow - you have come a long way. You've definitely turned this into one killer bass boat.. Can't wait to see the finished product! Great Job!


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## ben2go (Dec 22, 2008)

I like that electric panel set up.You could go with front stick steer or tiller.


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## Big Buck (Dec 22, 2008)

I know this may sound stupid, but what is front stick steer or tiller mean? Not really too familer with those terms. I just planned on putting my trolling motor up there with a mount that I created, unless I can figure a way to use a foot controlled mount with a hand controlled motor. Maybe I should lean towards what you guys are talking about.

Thanks


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## who pooted? (Dec 22, 2008)

It means the trolling motor is controlled by the handle that comes off the head rather than a foot controlled trolling motor. The tiller is the handle or stick. Cool boat man really enjoying watching the build!


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## ben2go (Dec 22, 2008)

who pooted? said:


> It means the trolling motor is controlled by the handle that comes off the head rather than a foot controlled trolling motor. The tiller is the handle or stick. Cool boat man really enjoying watching the build!




Close but not what I meant.A tiller motor is an outboard motor controlled by hand.A stick steer set up controls the out board with a stick instead of a steering wheel.

This is a tiller motor.






This is a stick steer set up.The stick turns the motor and the controls are on the other side for the motor.


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## Big Buck (Dec 22, 2008)

OK, thats kinda what I thought but was not for sure. I am going to go with the tiller motor. The boat came with an 1967 18 horse Johnson that I plan on using. It has an electric start that has been added to it that I plan on mounting right under the depth finder for easy access while I am sitting. I plan on wiring that up when the deck is complete and I will post pictures of what I mean. Thanks for the imput.


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## ben2go (Dec 23, 2008)

I agree.go with what ya got.I got a free 5HP Gamefisher outboard,needed work,and still working on it.It's not gonna cost much to finish it.


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## Big Buck (Dec 23, 2008)

Well some more time in the garage last night was pretty productive. I finshed up my deck support for the front and began work on the middle support. I am using 2x4 hangers to hold the main supports to the seats and then using 2x4 ran to the floor of the boat for add. support. I have tried to show you that in the pictures. For the storage I went to wal-mart and bought a 5.00 rubbermaid tote and cut the top of it off so that it would fit flush with the support that way my lid will lay flat on top. I still need to cut out my lid but thought that i would wait until I found a piano hinge. I then started on my middle section and have most done, still have a little work to do around the batterys and run some supports down to the floor but I will post more pics when that is finished. Hope you enjoy and please let me know if you have any ideas.

Thanks


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## russ010 (Dec 23, 2008)

That looks awesome! 

Are you going to carpet the wood or use something similar to Herculiner?


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## Big Buck (Dec 23, 2008)

I am going to use carpet, I found some at Home Depot. After I get everything built, i am probally going to have to go back and trim out about 1/4 inch to make room for the carpet to fit around the edges, so I can tuck under the board. We'll see how it goes. What did you or others do how much did you allow for the carpet when you built yours.


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## Waterwings (Dec 23, 2008)

Nice work on the supports, decking, and tote install ! 8) 

I believe most people have left about 1/4" to allow for the carpet, but may vary due to the type/thickness of carpet used. My rig came with metal flooring and the one fwd [metal] hatch and the rear access hatch I have did not have room enough to fold any under or between the hatch lid and the surrounding frame, so I just glued it all down then cut the openings with a sharp razor knife. The lid of the 5' storage box on the port side was the only place I had room to roll the carpet under. I (and others) have used the Henry 663 outdoor glue from Lowe's. I've had no problems with carpet lifting/seperating from the floor or hatches.

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/images/thumbnails.php?album=113


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## russ010 (Dec 23, 2008)

I used the rubber backed carpet from Lowes.. If you go back to where their carpet is, they should have rolls bound up in plastic wrap. These are usually the remnants left over near the end of the roll. They don't count how many yards of carpet are on there, just estimate it and put a price on it. I bought one of the rolls because the sticker said $18. I got enough carpet out of that to do my whole boat and I have some left over, so they made a mistake!

I didn't go all the way to the edges in the front with my deck, I used the space between the deck and the sidewalls to hold a plano box or 2 on each side. I cut the carpet to the wood first though, then did a dry fit. If I had to make any cuts, I cut the board and then tucked the carpet and stapled it to the underside of the deck. It's better to have more carpet than not enough which is why I cut the carpet first. I think I ended up shaving about 1/4" off total (1/8 each side, or just a blade width)... but I didn't cut the board to be exact either, so you may be more or less


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## Big Buck (Dec 29, 2008)

Well guys let me start off by saying I hope you all had a great Christmas. I know I did. I would also like to thank the person whoever created gift cards. There is nothing better than getting a hand full of Bass Pro Gift cards on Christmas morning. :lol: So anyways, we made are annual day after Christmas trip to Bass Pro, I am only about two hours from the Springfield, MO store, for those of you that have not made it to this store, you really need too. Its great. Out back of the main store they have their catalog outlet. This is where they sell the things that have been returned through catalog sales and have marked the price down to a very low price. For instance, i was able to get my mounting bracket, seat peadastol and seat mount all of only $30.00. They were all Springfield Spring Lock Brand. I then went into the store and priced them all and I would have cost over $75.00 in there. I just love it. =D> I picked up several other things as well and had plently of time this weekend to get most of it put on, including lights, trolling motor plug, trolling motor mount, and rod holders. I am still working on getting seat mounted, and I also got a trolling motor handle extension, i am not sure about it thought, it seems it may be too long, i will have to wait and see. I am getting excited, I can almost see the finsihed project in my head. I am planning on starting to water proof this week and hopefully get to start carpeting within in the next two weeks. I want to make sure that everything is correct and working before I carpet. Let me know if you guys have any suggestions on my design, this is my first time and am just kinda of winging it. Do you think that the weight of the wood is going to be an issue????


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## Waterwings (Dec 29, 2008)

Lookin' good, and good deal on the catalog outlet items! 8)


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## baptistpreach (Jan 8, 2009)

I know this suggestion might be late, but are you sure you wanna mount that switch panel on the floor? Seems like all it would take is a wrong step to knock off a switch or break that accessory panel? I'm ordering the same one for my boat, and I was favoring mounting it on or near the transom, but anyhow, just my .02. Rest of your project looks awesome!!


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## Big Buck (Jan 9, 2009)

jirwin6985 said:


> Hey Buck how do you like that trolling motor mount Ive been contemplateing one but was wondering if it seems sturdy. Is that the same ones ive seen on ebay?
> Joe



Yeah, i think that it will work fine, i bought mine at the Bass Pro Shops Outlet store and it was missing a few parts, well the most important parts, the one that holds it to the floor and keeps it from moving. I need to find away to keep it from moving side to side, which shouldn't be that hard, but once I get that figured out it should be fine and I am excited to try it out.


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## ben2go (Jan 9, 2009)

I am really starting to crave a V hull. =D>


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## Big Buck (Jan 28, 2009)

Well its been along time since i have had a chance to work on the boat. Last night I stripped it all down and am getting it ready for water proofing. I bought a latex based sealer, since i am using glue for the carpet, the guy at Ace told me that the Latex based would work better than the oil based. How many coats do you guys recommend puting on the wood before carpeting.

Thanks


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## Hanr3 (Jan 29, 2009)

Great work so far. I too have an old Alumacraft shallow v boat with a 18hp Johnson. I have been gathering the parts for my build, couple sheets of plywood, carpet and wire is all I need. I hope to begin on it within the next couple of weeks.


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## Big Buck (Feb 19, 2009)

Man it seems like I have completely ran out of time to get to work on the boat here of late. However, I have found some time to make a few upgrades before I get my carpet, which I ordered last week, hope to have it here by the end of next. Anyways, I have added some pictures of my starter switch that I have added and my new pedestal seat base that I created for the back of the boat. I got a base, 9" pedestal and seat mount for 29.99 on ebay the other day, I thought it was a hell of a deal. I also had to beef up my trolling motor mount to keep it from flexing, so I added three lag bolts to hold her in place. Well, other than that I am pretty much at a stand still until I get my carpet in. Then I should be able to finish her up. I am ready to go fishing.


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## Waterwings (Feb 19, 2009)

Lookin' good! 8)


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## Hanr3 (Feb 19, 2009)

Waterwings said:


> Lookin' good! 8)




Ditto!

Great work so far.


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## Madcatters (Feb 23, 2009)

Wow! We just joined this site today, and this thread on your boat is amazing! You say you are "winging it" but you must have some carpenter experience or something because I am awe! 

We purchased a shallow V this weekend on Craigslist as well. We have no hopes of anything as beautiful as yours, but will be doing some work on it to make it sea worthy.

Thanks for keeping us up to date!

Carol


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## Big Buck (Feb 25, 2009)

Well the long wait has finally arrived. I recieved my carpet this week and have wasted no time in getting to work on it. I have attached a few pictures below of the middle deck and back floor. I am learning as I go but I am impressed so far by how it has turned out. I am going to have to make some mods to the front to get it to fit in there now with the carpet but I think I have a pretty good idea in mind. I have attaached a few pics for you guys to take a look at. Let me know what you think. 

One more thing i need to ask. After you roll the carpet over and staple to the back, you create a gap in between the deck and the supports. I would say about 1/8 to a 1/4 inch. Has any one else noticed this and what did you do about it. Do you use shims or will just screwing the deck down bring the deck to the supports. Just a thought and was curious on what you guys have done in the past.

Thanks


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## grizzly (Feb 25, 2009)

i had the same issue, the carpet will just squish down and not cause a problem. i had rivets on the bench seats that stopped it from seating down, so i dabbed some crayon on top of the rivets and then carefully pressed the plywood on top, this gave me exact locations to drill a shallow relief hole with a forstner bit on the bottom of deck.


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## baptistpreach (Feb 25, 2009)

Looking good! Keep it up. Carpetting is like painting, it brings a very rewarding feeling when you're *done*


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## Big Buck (Feb 25, 2009)

grizzly said:


> i had the same issue, the carpet will just squish down and not cause a problem. i had rivets on the bench seats that stopped it from seating down, so i dabbed some crayon on top of the rivets and then carefully pressed the plywood on top, this gave me exact locations to drill a shallow relief hole with a forstner bit on the bottom of deck.



What type of screws to you recomend using when going through the aluminum bench seats. I am thinking that I don't want to use just regular wood screws for that.


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## Big Buck (Feb 26, 2009)

I had time to finish up the rest of the main deck last night, which I have posted pictures below. I should be able to finish most of the boat up this weekend. I plan on painting the rest of the inside of the boat as well this weekend. I will continue to post pictures as I finish them up.


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## daltonmcgill (Feb 26, 2009)

looks good


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## grizzly (Feb 26, 2009)

i used gold anodized deck screws with a zinc plated washer to attach the decking to the bench seats, stainless would be best, but in freshwater and not in contact with the water i just couldn't justify the cost. looks real good, i hope to get my pictures up this weekend, hard to do without internet at home.


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## Hanr3 (Feb 26, 2009)

not bad for an amature. Nice job!


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## Big Buck (Feb 26, 2009)

Thanks, I really appreciate it. Its always nice to hear you are doing a good job. I know that I am going to be ready to get her out on the water when its done. Hopefully will have most of it done this weekend. With crappy weather moving in, I will get plently of garage time this weekend. :lol:


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## Hanr3 (Feb 27, 2009)

I hear that. I hope to get the boat int eh garage this weekend. I have a two stall garage packed with stuff. I made enough room to get the boat in, now I ned room to work. :mrgreen:


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## RStewart (Mar 1, 2009)

nice job. very nice job.


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## Big Buck (Mar 2, 2009)

Well, I did not get her finished this weekend but I am getting so close, and I can't hardly stand it. I got all of the eletrical working last night and finished up the carpet as well this weekend. Pretty much the only thing left to do is attach the lids to the deck and fasten the deck down. I was to tired last night it was after 11:00 pm when I finally got the electrical panel finshed last night.  If you guys notice I cut my lids just a little bit to small. I thought I might go to the local junk yard and get some ruber that goes window seals of cars and staple that to the edges of the lids to give them a snug fit. I don't know, I was wondering what others have done, or am I the only one that goofed that big. They really aren't that bad though, I am just a perfectionist and it really bothers me. :x Anyways, I attached more pictures below for you all to check out.
Thanks for looking.


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## Blackhawk (Mar 2, 2009)

Hey buddy, it sure is looking good-I can't believe how far along it has come. Looks like you will have to come up and give me a few pointers on finishing my boat, LOL. Take it easy and keep us all posted on the finished product.


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## Waterwings (Mar 2, 2009)

Very nice work! 8) 


Welcome Aboard, Blackhawk! 8)


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## Hanr3 (Mar 3, 2009)

Nice work!

I would leave teh lids as is for a couple of reasons.
1) Over time they will shift, and the gap will give you wiggle room.
2) Wood swells in high humidity conditions, that gap will still allow you to open and close the lid.
3) It'll be more hassle than it's worth.


If it really bothers you that much dig out the lid strecher. :mrgreen:


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## grizzly (Mar 5, 2009)

if you don't mind pulling out your staples, you could pull it back from the edges and tack on a small strip of solid wood ripped down to the size you need, then roll carpet back down and you would never know it was there. i had to do that on one side of my bow deck where my angle was not quite right, came out seamless and i'm the only one that knows its there, and i'm sure i'll forget soon enough.


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## Hanr3 (Mar 6, 2009)

grizzly said:


> if you don't mind pulling out your staples, you could pull it back from the edges and tack on a small strip of solid wood ripped down to the size you need, then roll carpet back down and you would never know it was there. i had to do that on one side of my bow deck where my angle was not quite right, came out seamless and *i'm the only one that knows its there*, and i'm sure i'll forget soon enough.



Not any more. :mrgreen:


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## Blackhawk (Mar 19, 2009)

BigBuck,

So...have you had her out on the water yet? How does she handle?


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## Hanr3 (May 6, 2009)

Big Buck,

You did a fantasic job on your boat. How does it work?


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## Big Buck (May 18, 2009)

Sorry guys i have not been on here for awhile, Been Fishing!!!! The boat works great out on the water. I love every minute of it. It is so much better than my little scamp that I used to use. The 18 Horse Johnson works great. Fired up the first time I ever tried it, and boy am i glad i have the eletric start. I was also worried about the stability of the boat since the front deck was so high up on the sides, but she floats like a dream and feels like i am in a reagular bass boat. The wife and I have also done a lot of Crappie fishing in it and it works great for that. I cant wait to start channel cat fishing late at night it and running limb lines in it, one of the main reasons i bought the boat. The paint job did not work out the greatest and will probally plan on doing that again in the winter time along with the trailer. One thing that i must get done pretty soon are side bunks, it is a pain in the ya know what to get this think back on the trailer in wind. I took her out crappie fishing the first part of spring when the water was only about 48 deg. and ended up in the water walking her on the trailer that was not much fun, after about min the legs went numb, lol. I am so happy with the way she turned out and i owe it all to you guys. Thanks so much for all of the help you guys gave me. Look forward to doing another one.

Thanks again.

Marc


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## Zum (May 18, 2009)

I had stainless guide-ons,found them to hard,non forgiveing.
If you just want guide-ons,1 peice 10' PVC,2 60 degree elbows and a couple u bolts....done
I found the 60 degree elbows match the angle of my jon,you can go longer with the bottom PVC and use a 90 also.
Cheap and easy.


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## breachless (May 20, 2010)

I know nobody has posted in this thread for awhile, but I am new here so I wanted to drop in and comment on how awesome this build really is. I have a very similar boat to this one (it looks identical, but supposedly mine is a different year), and I never would have imagined that it could be transformed into something like what is seen here in this thread. Simply amazing. Well done! =D> I am inspired!


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## Pappy (May 23, 2010)

Hope you are running 24:1 in that old Johnson. Those are great engines and will run forever if you take care of them. Nice job on the boat! I just got done undoing the evils of a really poor attempt at that on my newly acquired 1966 Alumacraft 16'. Mine is done as well and serves as a realy nice boat to run my antique and vintage outboards on now.


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## MrHitman007 (May 24, 2010)

The build looks great. Any finished pictures yet?

By the way, that carpet is awesome! Where did you get it from?


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