# easier launch



## motfua (Aug 26, 2013)

have a grizzly 1448.
usually am alone, and looking for something to help it slide off without getting a hernia!!
any suggestions?


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## Brine (Aug 26, 2013)

First thing I would do is look at the trailer setup. Can you post some pics?


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## vahunter (Aug 26, 2013)

What I do is tie a ~20ft rope to the winch post on the trailer to the boat. Wrap the rope up in figure 8's so it doesn't tangle. Back boat in and tap brakes once it floats. Carefully drive forward with boat in the water floating (not on trailer) and take up almost all of the slack. Walk to the tie off point at the trailer, generally keeping feet dry, and pull your boat in by hand and tie it off to the dock.


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## overboard (Aug 26, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=327461#p327461 said:


> vahunter » 12 minutes ago[/url]"]What I do is tie a ~20ft rope to the winch post on the trailer to the boat. Wrap the rope up in figure 8's so it doesn't tangle. Back boat in and tap brakes once it floats. Carefully drive forward with boat in the water floating (not on trailer) and take up almost all of the slack. Walk to the tie off point at the trailer, generally keeping feet dry, and pull your boat in by hand and tie it off to the dock.



I've done the same thing many times when alone.
If at a very shallow launch, bunk slicks can also come in handy.


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## fender66 (Aug 26, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=327461#p327461 said:


> vahunter » Today, 15:27[/url]"]What I do is tie a ~20ft rope to the winch post on the trailer to the boat. Wrap the rope up in figure 8's so it doesn't tangle. Back boat in and tap brakes once it floats. Carefully drive forward with boat in the water floating (not on trailer) and take up almost all of the slack. Walk to the tie off point at the trailer, generally keeping feet dry, and pull your boat in by hand and tie it off to the dock.



I too have done this many, many times. One change though. My tie off rope is just long enough for the boat to slide off the trailer. Once it's off...it sits right behind it and I pull forward with boat following about 6-10 inches behind the trailer. It comes right up to the bank. Once I'm there...I can get out of my truck and remove the rope from the trailer. This rope length allows me to launch with other boats on the right and left of me if necessary. My boat won't stray into theirs. My side board bunks almost guide the boat as if it were literally attached to the trailer by more than just a rope.


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## Colbyt (Aug 26, 2013)

I'm reading the question different than the rest of you so my reply is: https://www.lowes.com/pd_235860-1409-M914_0__


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## DrNip (Aug 26, 2013)

Ultimate bunk boards.


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## Lone Wolf (Aug 26, 2013)

I just got the same boat. Put some bunk slicks on and boat slides off with one push


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## motfua (Aug 27, 2013)

lakes are still low due to draught 2 years ago... momma nature still hasn't caught up completely.
will try the "bunk slides"... thanks


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## WaterWaif (Aug 27, 2013)

Caution,at most ramps, don,t unhook bow till boat floats, especially when using slicks. [-X 
Yes i did unhook above float point after slicks install as i too used rope trick for decades! #-o first time bellyflopped boat on ramp :shock: and second time boat stood on end allowing lower unit to wedge between two concrete slabs below water. =D> My 4 h.p. is slightly custom now,also has been touched up a little. boat took a little work but all is well now, and i removed 3/4 of slicks.
But they are slick!


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## motfua (Aug 29, 2013)

good advise,,, thanks "waif"


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## fish devil (Aug 30, 2013)

:twisted: Go with a set of bunk caps!!!!!


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## motfua (Sep 2, 2013)

those slides are the "nuts".... one hand, one shove!!! thankyou


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## riverbud55 (Sep 2, 2013)

When I built my trailer I used trex-wood from Lowes as slick bunks. Along with the steel-flex on the bottom of of the boat its like the boat is on ball bearings,,, for some pics go to my build https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=32006


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## rootbeer (Oct 1, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=327461#p327461 said:


> vahunter » 26 Aug 2013, 13:27[/url]"]What I do is tie a ~20ft rope to the winch post on the trailer to the boat. Wrap the rope up in figure 8's so it doesn't tangle. Back boat in and tap brakes once it floats. Carefully drive forward with boat in the water floating (not on trailer) and take up almost all of the slack. Walk to the tie off point at the trailer, generally keeping feet dry, and pull your boat in by hand and tie it off to the dock.



This is how I launch my 14' when I'm alone, which is much of the time. Except there aren't docks where I launch. If the boat launch is steep enough I can hop out and untie the boat and pull it into shore. On a shallow boat launch I will leave the boat floating just behind the trailer and drive until the boat beaches. When I land the boat, I beach it and then back in my trailer. After backing in the trailer I hold onto the rope and push the boat out into the water and then pull and guide it onto the trailer. I don't get wet unless it is a very shallow boat launch.


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## bassfisherjk58 (Oct 11, 2013)

I have almost the same setup as Vahunter does,and it works real well for me.Give it a try.Good Luck!


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## PSG-1 (Oct 15, 2013)

By 'figure 8's' I'm assuming vahunter means coiling the rope in a 'daisy chain' configuration.

+1 to that. =D> 

Daisy chaining is the way to store ALL your lines. When ropes are neatly coiled, they NEVER pay out correctly without getting tangled. But when they are daisy chained, they work perfectly every time. Nothing worse than tossing out the anchor only to have the first 10 feet of rope pay out, then end up with a bird nest that you have to try to untangle. 

A lot of my extension cords and welding leads are stored like this, as well, as anyone knows, a welding lead or extension cord is guaranteed to bird-nest when you're trying to roll it out. And if it doesn't bird-nest, it's guaranteed to get caught on something! 

I also store para-cord like this. You can carry 50 feet of para cord around the brim of a boonie hat by running it through the loops....with no bulkiness, and it's right there when you need it. Also, the tight weave of the daisy chained para cord makes a great place to stick foliage if you're trying to camo yourself.


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## vahunter (Oct 18, 2013)

PSG-1 said:


> By 'figure 8's' I'm assuming vahunter means coiling the rope in a 'daisy chain' configuration.
> 
> +1 to that. =D>


Precisely


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## PSG-1 (Oct 19, 2013)

That's what I figured. 8)

I learned a long time ago that trying to neatly coil lines might look pretty when they're stored, but under actual use, it's a PITA. Daisy chain uncoils without tangling, every time.


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## BigTerp (Nov 1, 2013)

What I recently did that made a vast improvement to my carpeted bunks was apply a generous amount of parrafin wax. You can find it at the grocery store, and it's pretty cheap. Makes the bunks nice and slick, but not to slick.


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