# 74 Evinrude 9.9 rebuild "After" pics added



## karloutdoors (Aug 30, 2013)

1974 Evinrude 9.9 I just rebuilt earlier this season including paint/decals (pictures to come). First two outings and the motor worked fine including the stop button. Third time out, I wanted to shut her down and the stop button she no wanna work. I disconnected the fuel line till she ran out of gas. Checked connections, disconnected and reconnected and still same results. Might be in need of a replacement if I cant figure this one out. any tips?


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## wihil (Aug 30, 2013)

The stop button works by grounding out to the motor - pressing the momentary button completes the circuit to the motor block and kills the motor.

If you pop the hood, you should see the wire that comes in from near the handle (or button itself) and where it goes back to the bolt on the block located near the top left rear of the motor. Check and make sure that's got a good crimp on it and it hasn't pulled out.

If your stop button is on the tiller handle make sure you don't have a hard bend that may have cut a wire (look for flex points). If it's on the head, pop the cover and follow the two wires one should go to the block and the other to a connector. Check for continuity between the wires when the STOP button is pressed, if unpressed this should be an open.

Good luck!


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## karloutdoors (Aug 31, 2013)

I'll check that again in the morning. The info is appreciated. 

Back story of the motor:

My neighbor placed this motor along side his trash can some 8 years ago. I asked what was wrong with it and my neighbor said...it takes up too much space.............. in my shed. He had no garage so shed space certainly was at a premium. He said it ran fine the last time he had it on the boat some two years prior and had since purchased a new 15hp o/b. He refused my cash offer and told me to take it and call him when we were going fishing. "Sweet deal." I said. Off to a local marine mechanic. $165 for a tune up, spark plug, fuel filter, fuel line and fuel tank. and shes purring like a kitten. Fast forward 7 years I was still using the motor as a kicker but she was starting to get temperamental. Difficulty starting and suspected impeller issues. Seeing as all Ive ever done was change lower unit oil, fog it for winters, replaced spark plug 2 x's since just because, I never really gave her a serious rehab. Shame on me for not being thorough. Last winter I began dismantling the motor taking pics along the way initially for use while reassembling. They proved to be invaluable as a resource and I recommend it to everyone. Digital photos are cheap. Snap away. Propeller paparazzi as we nicknamed the photo steps in the process. Id recommend also using the highest resolution available on your particular camera as well. Schematics are sometimes a little sketchy where a clear photo can get you through. After the project was completed, a review of the pics showed how much we actually accomplished and how poor condition the motor was actually in when we began.


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## karloutdoors (Aug 31, 2013)

Before pics


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## karloutdoors (Aug 31, 2013)

.......


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## karloutdoors (Aug 31, 2013)

And of course the obligatory fishing line.........


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## shawnfish (Aug 31, 2013)

whats that piece of rubber hose clamped around the lower for?


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## Charger25 (Sep 1, 2013)

The stop button on the 15,sometimes works sometimes not. I usually just pull the choke out , yeah I'm lazy 8) 





[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=328036#p328036 said:


> shawnfish » Yesterday, 23:50[/url]"]whats that piece of rubber hose clamped around the lower for?



Took the question right outta my mouth :LOL2: I'm curious as well


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## karloutdoors (Sep 1, 2013)

Its actually an ez steer coupler. Connects to my main via a slave bar and an identical bracket/coupler. Allows me to steer my kicker with the steering wheel/main o/b. I have flat orange rubber between the bracket and lower unit to prevent scratching and wear on the l/u.

This is one connected ti the lower unit of an i/o


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## karloutdoors (Sep 1, 2013)

Now for some ugly pics of the disassembly. Out with the old water pump. New one will be installed. Every blue piece of housings, handles, brackets, levers, linkages , will be sandblasted and powdercoated courtesey of a friend in that business. My cost was for powder coat material only. Labor exchanged for .......you guessed it.....another day on the water fishing (total days fishing due to date=2). I had secured moeller green primer and evinrude metallic light blue cans of paint for the job before the offer of sandblasting and p/c were made. (2 cans of each still remain if anyone needs any. make an offer? cheep) I had a bit of a choice to make......let someone else do the work which would surely lead to a higher quality finished product with one caveat which will be revealed later.


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## karloutdoors (Sep 1, 2013)

All rubber mounts, bushings and grommets were replaced. There were broken pieces of rubber everywhere in places they should'nt be.


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## erictetterton (Sep 1, 2013)

Broken upper motor mounts. Typical of these motors. I'm in the process of replacing mine as well. Looking forward to seeing more pics


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## karloutdoors (Sep 7, 2013)

I just realized that I had only taken pics taken during disassembly I made sure of thatas I was only planning on using them as a reference during reassembly. Once I got replacement parts,and other parts cleaned stripped or repainted, I was more concerned (actually excited) with getting her all put back together. I wasnt thinking about showing it to others in this way and didnt take pics during reassembly. Ill get some pics of the the motor, inside and out as best as I can and post them as soon as possible. She has been running great though. Been trolling salmon and have run three three gallon tanks full of gas through her since the rebuild and smoother than Ive ever seen her run with the exception of that kill switch issue. Hang tight y'all. "After" pics coming soon.


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## Pappy (Sep 10, 2013)

The kill or safety switch issue should be an easy one. 
Disconnect the wired and use an ohmmeter across the two leads. You should have an open reading in the running position and a closed reading in the pressed position. If still open then the switch is bad. 
Second, the switch grounds the black/yellow lead from the powerpack to ground, on the engine. Make sure you have good connections. Ohmeters again are your friend during this procedure. 
Oh....be a little careful of the black/yellow lead while the engine is running......it runs at around 300V.


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## Pappy (Sep 10, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=328864#p328864 said:


> Pappy » less than a minute ago[/url]"]The kill or safety switch issue should be an easy one.
> Disconnect the wires and use an ohmmeter across the two leads. You should have an open reading in the running position and a closed reading in the pressed position. If still open then the switch is bad.
> Second, the switch grounds the black/yellow lead from the powerpack to ground, on the engine. Make sure you have good connections. Ohmeters again are your friend during this procedure.
> Oh....be a little careful of the black/yellow lead while the engine is running......it runs at around 300V.


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## SumDumGuy (Sep 10, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=328865#p328865 said:


> Pappy » 10 Sep 2013, 00:14[/url]"]
> 
> 
> [url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=328864#p328864 said:
> ...



:wink:


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## karloutdoors (Sep 22, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=328075#p328075 said:


> karloutdoors » 01 Sep 2013, 11:54[/url]"] Every blue piece of housings, handles, brackets, levers, linkages , will be sandblasted and powdercoated courtesey of a friend in that business. My cost was for powder coat material only. Labor exchanged for .......you guessed it.....another day on the water fishing (total days fishing due to date=2). I had secured moeller green primer and evinrude metallic light blue cans of paint for the job before the offer of sandblasting and p/c were made. I had a bit of a choice to make......let someone else do the work which would surely lead to a higher quality finished product with one caveat which will be revealed later.
> View attachment 7




The caveat I referred to was two fold. First off was that 4 partss (indicated with arrows in following pics) were unable to be powder coated for reasons that have since escaped me. Something about the heat process involed. Some parts were not completely disassembled and had plastic/nylon components still in them that powdercoat guys were not going to be troubled with so those were sprayed....and the colors dont match the rest of the motor. Second was that powdercoats, I was told, could not be metalic/metalflake. Subsequently they wouldnt match the original OEM blue. The stripping and powder coat labor were free so I cant bark too loudly.


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## karloutdoors (Sep 22, 2013)

Before / After


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## karloutdoors (Sep 22, 2013)

Before / After


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## karloutdoors (Sep 22, 2013)

Before / After


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