# 40 hp evinrude clicking on start



## fish2keel (Sep 2, 2012)

Hey guys,

I have a 1988 evinrude E40teccs 40 hp tiller electric start. I just put a new starter and solenoid on the motor and had a full work up on the motor. Well I brought the motor home and let it sit for a few months while I traveled. I came back and put a fresh charged starter battery on the motor to crank it up. 

Now when I press the start button it just clicks. The starter wont engage or anything. The clicking is coming from a piece by the shift linkage. It has an orange piece that can move. So when I press the start button it just goes click, click, click. Not even attempting to turn over. 

This is on a fresh charged battery too. 

Anyone got any ideas? 

Thanks

f2k

p.s. i have a video on my phone as well of the clicking


----------



## fish2keel (Sep 2, 2012)

Here is a picture of the orange piece that I referred to in my first post. When I hit the starter I can feel this piece clicking


----------



## Lil' Blue Rude (Sep 2, 2012)

That's your primer solinoid. It's activated when you push the key in when it's in the on position.


----------



## fish2keel (Sep 2, 2012)

Lil blue rude,

Got any ideas why its clicking?


----------



## Zum (Sep 2, 2012)

I really don't "know" but sometimes batteries that seem charged...aren't.
Try hooking your car/truck battery up to it.
I know you can bypass the starter solenoid BUT I'm not sure on the correct way and I wouldn't want you to fry something on your motor.


----------



## Talons (Sep 2, 2012)

BE CAREFUL!!!

Talons


----------



## fish2keel (Sep 2, 2012)

I put the battery up to a trickle charger for 12 hours last night on 12 volts. Is this not right? It should be charged should it not? 

I guess I can take my truck battery to it as well.


----------



## fish2keel (Sep 2, 2012)

Here's the video for you guys...maybe that will help

https://youtu.be/kggmGYAeGZU


----------



## Talons (Sep 2, 2012)

Okay, if you are 'up for it' then I can give you some 'step by step' instructions on how to diagnose where your problem is. However, in your video I don't think I saw the starter, they are usually on the port side of the engine (at least they have been on my Evinrude 200 HP and my Johnson 33 HP).

Regardless of that, let me know if you want to do it yourself or if you plan on taking it to the shop. If you plan on taking it into the shop, then just do that and be done with it.

If not, then the very first thing you want to do is ensure that the battery and the starter are working. You do this by either removing the starter and getting it by itself on the ground (this is the recommended approach) and then using jumper cables attach the NEGATIVE (BLACK) wire to the casing of the starter and then 'tap' the POSITIVE (RED) wire to the terminal screw on the starter. You are watching for two things. Spin, obviously, and engagement of the throw gear which move from the position it is in to the tip of the starter. If neither of these works, then it could be the battery. To determine that you can use a battery (12V DC) that you know is good! Like you truck battery.

If the battery is good and the starter spins and the throwout gear moves outward, congratulations, the basic system components are good and you are ready to begin PHASE 2.

*** CAUTION *** THIS CAN BE CONSIDERED DANGEROUS TO THE AVERAGE INDIVIDUAL! (Personally, I find it fun, but I've been told I'm crazy and insane too!)

Okay, let me know which route you are going to choose.

Talons


----------



## fish2keel (Sep 2, 2012)

Talons,

I have emailed a shop to take a look at it but I would prefer to do it myself. I love playing with everything and learning rather than send it to some shop. 

Ill go give your things a try. The starter is brand new. I just ordered it last week.

Im beginning to think that its the charger. The charger is older and when I plug it on 12 volts for 12 hours and hook it to the battery it is only saying that it has 5 amps. That seems wrong. 

I have the starter mounted but I guess I'll unbolt it and see if it works. 

Can I also hook up the cables from the motor to my truck? If it cranks in we know its the battery(which is brand new. Just got it last week) or the charger


----------



## fish2keel (Sep 2, 2012)

Well I went out and hooked my motor straight up through jumper cables to my truck. At first it just clicked and clicked and clicked. Then I hit a black button on the side of the gear shift and it starter to turn over slowly. The starter engaged the fly wheel. 

I then unplugged the truck from the cables because they were super hot to touch. I then hooked the cables from the motor to the battery in the boat and from there on out the starter just spins. It doesn't engage. 

Not sure what happened


----------



## Talons (Sep 2, 2012)

Okay, so does the starter spin and the engagement gear does not throw out and engage the flywheel of the motor?

Talons


----------



## fish2keel (Sep 2, 2012)

Talons,

It did for a few turns but not it just spins and wont stop even when I pull the kill switch. 

Got any ideas?


----------



## Talons (Sep 2, 2012)

Okay, so when you used the truck motor the thing wored 'correctly' but the wires got hot?
When you use the boat battery the starter motor turns, but won't engage the engine and it also won't turn off even with the kill switch?

Is that about correct?
Talons


----------



## fish2keel (Sep 2, 2012)

That is correct


----------



## Talons (Sep 2, 2012)

What you need to do is ISOLATE elements of the ignition/starting system so you can determine which piece is bad. Once that is done you can determine if that piece (or pieces) needs to be replaced or can be rebuilt. But, just so we are clear on the advantages of both, I recommend replacement over rebuilding ignition/starting systems.

So, since the boat battery turns the starter, we can start there, okay? Okay.
1) Boat battery seems to be good.
2) Disconnect the starter ELECTRICALLY from the boat engine.
3) Use jumper cables and NOT the boat cables for this test. Why? Because you are trying to bypass ALL of the starting system components EXCEPT the starter itself.
The starter housing is the same as the NEGATIVE side of the battery
The little terminal on the starter (there should only be one and it should be fairly obvious) is the POSITIVE side.
4) Connect the negative battery terminal directly to the starter housing.
5) Tap the starter.

There should be NO reason to have to use ANY part of the boat's buttons, keys, etc. to perform this test. I did this on my 200 HP Evinrude to determine I had a throttle interlock problem. My battery was good. My starter was good. From there I moved to the solenoid.

If when you tap the starter the throwout gear does not throwout, but the starter spins, usually the throwout solenoid on the starter is bad. You said this was a new starter so, I find that hard to believe, but it IS possible. If the starter spins and the throwout thing engages, then you have both a GOOD BATTERY and a GOOD STARTER!

If you have to use ANY part of the boat other than the battery and jumper cables you are doing it wrong. Why? Because basically what you are doing is putting the battery to the starter without the other elements 'getting in the way'.

I actually had my starter on the ground and connected my battery to it. You do NOT let it spin that long as the wires will get very hot as a lot of current is going through them. It is SUPPOSED to!

Talons


----------



## Talons (Sep 2, 2012)

You know what I mean when I say 'tap it', right? I am thinking you do.

The absolutely BEST way to do this (although, like I said not necessary) is to remove the starter and place it on the ground.

Talons


----------



## Talons (Sep 2, 2012)

Are you sure it is spinning the correct direction? Usually they spin counterclockwise if you are looking at the top of the starter which would be where it engages the flywheel of the engine.

Talons


----------



## fish2keel (Sep 2, 2012)

Talons,

It is spinning counter clock wise. 

I did your test and the starter runs counter clockwise but it does not engage


----------



## Talons (Sep 2, 2012)

The 'thing' that sends the engagement gear up the starter shaft is not working. Is that a new starter or the old one that came with the engine?

If it is a NEW one, take it back and get a replacement. Have him show you at the shop that it works. And it spins in the correct direction for your engine. Usually Johnson, Evinrude and Mercury all spin clockwise, which means the starter motor would spin counter clockwise.

If it is the old starter, then take it in and get another one. ALTHOUGH, those pieces can be rebuilt, that is above my experience.

I actually have a starter for sale, but its SMALLEST HP is 200HP.

But, the GOOD NEWS is: The battery works. 
BTW, sometimes the guy at the shop can get the throw-out thing to work. I am not sure what they do, but you used to be able to 'hit them with a rubber mallet' and that would vibrate something and allow the starter to work. I do NOT suggest this. As the newer starters are built different today.

Good luck, man and keep me informed! GTG to BED now.

TTY in the AM.
Talons


----------



## fish2keel (Sep 3, 2012)

Talons,

Thanks for your help! It seems like the bendix gear is not engaging. I also read the thing about the rubber mallet hammer. I feel like some times a hammer is needed but not with a piece of electrical gear. 

Since its labor day no starter places will be open but I will take it tomorrow or Wed to a starter shop to see how it goes. 

I read online that you can spray wd-40 on the bendix gear and it should make it work but I feel like it won't in this situation. 

It is a brand new starter. I bought it brand new last week from a marine starter company. Im going to email to see what they can do about a replacement although I need one quickly because were going to make a tournament this weekend.


----------



## Charger25 (Sep 3, 2012)

Not to interrupt Talons, but fish2keel, I don't recomend lubricating the bendix or starter gear. It needs some friction to climb up the starter shaft to engage the flywheel. Can you turn the gear on the starter and it move up the shaft by hand? Can you turn the motor over by hand?
https://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1988&hp=40&model=E40TECCS&manufacturer=Evinrude&section=Electric+Starter+%26amp%3B+Solenoid 
the gear #4 should move up the starter shaft when turned by hand.


----------



## Talons (Sep 3, 2012)

Charger25 said:


> Not to interrupt Talons, but fish2keel, I don't recomend lubricating the bendix or starter gear. It needs some friction to climb up the starter shaft to engage the flywheel. Can you turn the gear on the starter and it move up the shaft by hand? Can you turn the motor over by hand?
> https://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1988&hp=40&model=E40TECCS&manufacturer=Evinrude&section=Electric+Starter+%26amp%3B+Solenoid
> the gear #4 should move up the starter shaft when turned by hand.


Hey man, no worries! I am just trying to help him get going!

Talons


----------



## Talons (Sep 3, 2012)

fish2keel said:


> Talons,
> 
> Thanks for your help! It seems like the bendix gear is not engaging. I also read the thing about the rubber mallet hammer. I feel like some times a hammer is needed but not with a piece of electrical gear.
> 
> ...


Okay, TOURNAMENT? This is IMPORTANT information.

Stop the presses. Remove the starter and the boat battery. Take those with you to the place you are going on Weds to get the starter REPLACED! When you get the new one in the box, have them SHOW you that the thing works before you take it home. I say this because we are now in 'CRITICAL TIMING' area. YOU are going fishing on a Tournament on Saturday. The last thing you need is an unreliable starter on board.

This is where I walk into the shop with my BNS and my battery and tell them, "Hey, this one ain't working right, can we get this solved pronto because I have a tournament on Saturday and I don't want to have an unreliable starter on board?"

They will all smile and bend over backwards to help you get that fixed. Why??? Because they would LOVE to be in your position for Saturday!

Talons


----------



## fish2keel (Sep 3, 2012)

Talons,

That gave me a good laugh but I understand what your saying. I plan to take it in wed with my battery and show them the problem. I hope it gets resolved. I also emailed the original company I ordered the starter from to see what they will do about it not working properly. 

Charger,

The gear on the starter can move but it will not go up the shaft. It did when it was new in the box but not since I put it on the outboard and hooked up a battery to it. Other than about three small times and then that was it. Now it just spins. I tried moving it by hand earlier today and it just wont budge. I can turn the fly wheel on the motor by hand but can not crank it by hand its electric only

Thanks for the help guys! Im trying to make it work thanks to yall


----------



## Talons (Sep 3, 2012)

BTW, when they all done helpin' you fix your problem at the starter store, slip one of them a $5. He will remember you if you have to bring it back like the next because something didn't actually work correctly.

Talons


----------



## fish2keel (Sep 3, 2012)

Talons,

Can you for that advice. I will def. do that. 

Its to bad that I couldn't get it fixed myself but thats ok I suppose

Thanks again


----------



## Talons (Sep 3, 2012)

Some things we can fix...
Some thing we can't fix...
Just like Congress though, we can THROW money at the problem until it goes away!

Anyway, you are welcome. If you had more time, you could do more, but dude, Tournament Saturday!

Talons


----------



## fish2keel (Sep 4, 2012)

Well I took the starter to a starter shop today. The company finally returned my phone call by email saying I can ship it back to them to get looked at. 

The starter shop is one of the most recommended shops in my area and he had a whole bunch of outboard starters he was working on. He said he was pretty sure of the problem because the bendix was stuck and was not allowing it to engage. He also said his turn around time was 24 hours! He took it from me, shook me hand and went over to his bench and started working on it for me. The gentleman is older and seems to know his stuff. 

Ill keep everyone posted. I told him I didnt need it back in 24 hours but by friday and he said no problem so Ill let everyone know the results when I get it back.

Talons, Thanks again for all your help


----------



## Talons (Sep 4, 2012)

Dude, you are quite welcome.
And I hope he keeps his end of the bargain, but I have found those old boys that deal with handshakes KNOW what they be talking about.

Talons
p.s. GOOD LUCK!


----------



## fish2keel (Sep 5, 2012)

So I got the phone call from the starter repair guy. What a nice guy and got it done in 24 hours. 

What had happened was that the parts that were used inside the starter were cheap parts basically. The spline was not machined right and none of the gears were lubed. He replaced everything that needed to be replaced, replaced the pinion gear and also lubed up everything. It came to 25 bucks. Wow! Can't ask for anything better! 

Last thing to get is a trolling motor battery and we will be fishing on saturday and sunday! 

Thanks again everyone!


----------



## Charger25 (Sep 5, 2012)

Glad ya got it figured out, good luck this weekend. I'll be cutting grass


----------



## Talons (Sep 5, 2012)

Charger25 said:


> Glad ya got it figured out, good luck this weekend. I'll be cutting grass


Happy you got 'er done!
Walmart will have those other items. 

Now go and fish that tourney!
Talons


----------



## fish2keel (Sep 5, 2012)

Talons or anyone,

I have a question. I got the motor to turn over today. The starter worked great. Now here is my question.

When I plugged my electric ignition cables into the battery and started to crank the motor the terminals and wires from the battery to the outboard got really hot. To the point I couldn't touch them at the battery end. 

I have read that it can be from the cables actually being bad on the inside. So I want to replace them. How do I go about doing that? What size wire? Leads and etc? 

Thanks guys!


----------



## Talons (Sep 5, 2012)

Marine battery cables. The starter guy probably has some.
Talons


----------



## fish2keel (Sep 5, 2012)

I have 4 gauge cables that are marine copper cables I bought from west marine. Is that the correct size or should I go larger?


----------



## Talons (Sep 5, 2012)

Ok. If they are about the size of a car battery wire (the thick one) then that will probably be ok.
Try them. Marine wire is different than car wire.

If it feels like it is going to melt after the engine cranks, then I'm stumped. But I have a feeling that they won't.

Old boats with old gear sometimes need a lot of loving'.

Talons


----------



## fish2keel (Sep 6, 2012)

I understand. The wire that was on the engine in the first place I believe was just to old. When I cut it open it was black as if it was burnt. 

Im going to try these new marine copper lines and see what happens. If they burn up then ill go use a 2 gauge and if that doesn't work then its back to the repair shop....

ill keep everyone posted


----------



## fish2keel (Sep 6, 2012)

It lives!!!!! 

I put some new 4 gauge marine copper wires on the outboard and to the battery that was freshly charged. I then hooked up my gas tank and it was turning over but not firing. I then saw that I had turned I guess a solenoid of some sort off. The orange knob on the left side of the outboard by the carbs.

I flipped that gave it a push of the ignition and she roared to life. Smoked pretty good but I guess thats because its been over a year since shes been cranked last. It sounded great! I was like a kid in a candy store hearing her fire up! 

Now if the weather will work good for me I'll be out on the water running the marsh tomorrow after class lets out! 

Thanks guys for all the help with everything! I couldn't have done it without you!


----------



## New River Rat (Sep 6, 2012)

I've been following this and now I feel like I've learned something.

I bought my Johnson new in '97 and the gear would go up the starter shaft to the flywheel when it felt like it. I did a little lubing and not much better. I took her to the shop where I bought her, and I guess my lubing had taken, because the mechanic could not get it to repeat the sticking. 

This site is the best!!!


----------



## ckr74 (Sep 6, 2012)

I lube mine once in a while. Not with grease or oil, it will gum it up. Just use something light like WD 40.


----------



## Talons (Sep 6, 2012)

Lube is good!
"That's what she said!"

Talons


----------



## fish2keel (Sep 15, 2012)

Well had a bit more trouble with the boat so didn't get to make the tourney. 

Actually just took the boat out this afternoon. Ive been swamped with crew practice and work. 

The engine ran ok. I think the prop is to small though. I can't even find on it what it is but it would never get the boat on plane. 

It would only go about 8-10 mph at most and never on plane. When I would give it throttle it only did much at the lower even of the throttle after about 40% throttle or so even if I twisted the throttle no more power came of it. 

Is this the prop? 

I have a spare 12 1/2 by 13p. I wonder if that would work. 

Thanks again...

Calling on you again talons!


----------



## Talons (Sep 16, 2012)

This is a 40 HP, right?
How big and heavy is the old girl?

I have owned 4 boats in my lifetime so far:
14' home made Jon boat with three different engines; 9.8 merc old, 9.9 Johnson that the housing was about to fall apart on and a brand new 9.9 Nissan. Guess which I loved?
14' 1966 Thindercraft Tri-hull with 33 HP Evinrude that made today's 150s look small. It had electric start but no alternator
20' Seasquirt 20+ with a 200 HP evinrude with all the toys elec start, tilt trim, alternator
And the one I have now, 14' Lowe with a 20 HP Merc pull start.

All of my boat engine combos went faster than 8-10 mph and all of them got up on plane.

I think your high speed adjustment screw needs just that. You do that while out on the water actually running the boat. If you look around the carb, you will see the idle adj screw, but there is another one too. That one is the high speed adj screw. I would start there.

I do remember one day with 33 evinrude where it refused to start. I started just looking around in there and the entire idle adj screw assembly had vibrated out. I screwed it back in and she started right up. Looked at the high side while I was there and it was almost out too.

I put that on my 'keep an eye out' list for that boat and I never had a problem with that old motor again.

Talons


----------



## fish2keel (Sep 16, 2012)

It's a 1988 40 hp all electric and she's pretty heavy. 

Do you happen to have a picture of what these screws look like? 

Also I think the engine is about a half inch high and it may have the engine out of the water to high. I do think though the prop needs to be changed since it is beat up.

Problem is though the nut won't budge. I put wd40 on it and it's so stuck it bent my metal prop wrench.

Any ideas on this as well?


----------



## Talons (Sep 16, 2012)

fish2keel said:


> It's a 1988 40 hp all electric and she's pretty heavy.


I meant the BOAT... HA HA HA! 


fish2keel said:


> Do you happen to have a picture of what these screws look like?


Okay, I was not quite right on that engine. It is a bit different. Here is the procedure from eHow to adjust YOUR engine's high speed. 
https://www.ehow.com/how_7599758_adjust-speed-40-hp-evinrude.html
While that is HELPFUL information, at this point, I would take it to the shop. And hey, since you might need to do that for the propeller you get a twofer!


fish2keel said:


> Also I think the engine is about a half inch high and it may have the engine out of the water to high. I do think though the prop needs to be changed since it is beat up.


There is a manual from Evinrude which helps select propellers... I have included the link here:
https://www.evinrude.com/Content/Pdf/en-US/PropSelectionGuide_766315.pdf
Page 14 has props for your specific engine. I personally, if I could afford it, go with the Rogue in a mid torque, range (17" pitch)


fish2keel said:


> Any ideas on this as well?


First off, sorry about the wrench. WD 40 takes a while to work. BUT, that may not be the problem. It may be that it is time to take it a professional to get that old one off and get a new one on there. 

Talons


----------



## fish2keel (Sep 16, 2012)

Talons,

You are awesome! Thanks so much for getting back so fast and for answering everything. 

The boat is a 2002 tracker grizzly 1648. Its completely open in the boat. Its light weight. Maybe 400 lbs maybe. 

Thanks for the prop link I will check that out. I have a 13 pitch but im thinking that might not be what I should use. I dont have a tack on my boat so I dont know what the rpms are. 

I already emailed two boat mechanics to see if they can help me with everything. Hopefully I get a response tomorrow. I won't be able to drop it off tomorrow but will be able to tuesday at the earliest. 

Ill keep you posted on everything


----------



## Talons (Sep 16, 2012)

That is a VERY light weight ride and with 40 HP pushing it, you should be 'scared' with how fast it goes!

SO... That only means that you are doing the right thing by asking the local mechanics (who have all the RIGHT tools) for help!

Good luck dude,
Talons


----------



## fish2keel (Sep 20, 2012)

Thanks talons. I called a mechanic but was told he does not do older outboards. Which is weird since the main thing I need is to get the prop off and the motor to be lowered. 

Im going to call another mechanic tomorrow. For living on the water in port orange its hard to find a mechanic

Ill keep everyone updated


----------



## Talons (Sep 20, 2012)

They get a certain age and no one wants to touch them... I had that happen too.

T


----------

