# New guy with a project boat.



## RaisedByWolves (Oct 8, 2017)

Hi TB people!

Last month I acquired a 14' Mirrocraft with a trailer out of a scrap yard. The trailer has a title, the boat does not but I should be able to rectify that as I did this the last time I bought a boat from a scrap yard back in 1990.

I tool that one (12' Alumicraft)and modified it into a nice two person fishing boat by removing the fromt seat and moving the middle seat forwards 1' to give both people more room. I added a deck to the front to mount a trolling motor and store the battery.

So, Im not really new at this but I would like some pointers regarding how much I can take out of the boat without making it structurally unstable.


I was going to follow the same recepie I used before, but now Im wondering if ill I be OK removing all three seats and installing a floor with foam under it for flotation? I would then add rod lockers on the sides to give it some strength.


Heres the specimen. $320.


----------



## RaisedByWolves (Oct 8, 2017)

I managed to get some work done today.

First up was tearing out the hideous seats and the rotten plywood mounts. Then the Amazon driver showed up with my new tires and wheels! \/ 


Got the wheels mounted and the boat no longer looks like a dumpster fire.

Old wheel for comparisons sake. Looks much better and should trailer better, no idea whu someone would put 8" wheels onthis size trailer. Can anyone tell the manufacture time frame going my the Mirrocraft sticker design?


----------



## FormerParatrooper (Oct 8, 2017)

Contact Mirro Craft with your HIN number and they may be able to tell you the year. I have a '79 Mirrocraft 14 footer and they sent me a digital copy of the catalogue for that year. 

Look thru the threads here about moving and removing seats, a lot have done it in various ways.


----------



## RaisedByWolves (Oct 9, 2017)

Thanks FP, I might do just that.


Next thing Im going to tackle is the transom. The transom is rotted and needs to come out and a new one made. You can see how bad it is in the first pic and in the second you can see how bad some of the hardware is, had to cut it out with a die grinder and a carbide burr.


----------



## wis bang (Oct 9, 2017)

RaisedByWolves said:


> Can anyone tell the manufacture time frame going my the Mirrocraft sticker design?



Mid 60's till '72 we rented a cottage in Ontario [placed my pappy fished since the 40's] and he had 14 foot starcraft and mirrocraft rentals and that was the logo then...


----------



## SeaFaring (Oct 10, 2017)

I too cursed the 8” wheels on the trailer for my 14’ Starcraft, but I think I’ve figured it out. Mine is a tilting trailer, and I think they did it to get the boat closer to the ground to make it easier to launch without the benefit of a proper boat ramp. 

That’s my theory, and I’m sticking to it since it’s the only one that I’ve come up with that doesn’t annoy me. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## RaisedByWolves (Oct 10, 2017)

wis bang said:


> RaisedByWolves said:
> 
> 
> > Can anyone tell the manufacture time frame going my the Mirrocraft sticker design?
> ...




I checked out the HIN and this hull is a 1980, probably used them for a long time on the same hull design, a "Resorter".

So now I know that much.


Seafaring, yes, thats what Im hearing from guys at work, bad ramps, two wheel drive vehicles on slippery ramps, beach launching.

Seems to me you take a big risk on the highway with your bearings, plus they look hideous.


----------



## SeaFaring (Oct 10, 2017)

I think the bearings do ok. I towed mine home 800 miles on the interstate from my inlaws and they did fine. 

I need to repack them, but that’s because I procrastinated and the night before I had to leave, I discovered that my grease seals had been damaged in shipping. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## lckstckn2smknbrls (Oct 12, 2017)

I've run my trailer with 8" wheels and 3/4" bearings at highway speeds for 3 to 4 hundred miles with no issues.


----------



## RaisedByWolves (Oct 12, 2017)

Huh, maybe I was over thinking that.

Looks better IMO and gives me clearance to tow with the motor down.....10" skeg to road.



Either wat, I spent $50 for a sheet of 3/4" oak plywood for the transom today.

Should be plenty strong for adding the 2" of height I need and also look good.


Tomorrow I cut and laminate two pieces to make up my 1.5" transom.


----------



## lckstckn2smknbrls (Oct 12, 2017)

Is the oak plywood exterior grade? 
If not it probably will not last. A better choice is BCX plywood.


----------



## RaisedByWolves (Oct 12, 2017)

Nah, Im going to seal it with multiple coats of polyester resin and coat the bolt holes too.


Should be good for 20-30 years.


----------



## lckstckn2smknbrls (Oct 13, 2017)

Polyester resin without the fiber glass cloth will peel off. Coating it with epoxy resin would be better but the ply's will still delaminate b/c the plywood is not made with waterproof glue.


----------



## SeaFaring (Oct 13, 2017)

I second the warning about polyester. It’s not particularly good at adhering to wood. Epoxy or even exterior paint would probably do better. I’m toying with the idea of using Behr Deckover paint (designed to seal old wooden porches and decks) for sealing mine when I get around to transom work. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## RaisedByWolves (Oct 13, 2017)

From what I have read thinning it with acetone lets it get absorbed into the surface of the wood before it kicks off.

Im not really understanding how the ply will delaminate if it remains sealed.

Outside as well as the inside of all holes will be sealed.


----------



## RaisedByWolves (Oct 13, 2017)

OK, I forgot about poly not being completely waterproof.

Is this what I need?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NLPCA5Y/ref=asc_df_B00NLPCA5Y5214320/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B00NLPCA5Y&linkCode=df0&hvadid=193991302028&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14238045064479733180&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007196&hvtargid=pla-315131844132


As far as the oak I chose that as I couldnt find the recommended "Yellawood" ply that is supposed to be better with touching aluminum than the standard CDX.

For the transom I think it will be fine as it will not be covered in carpet and will remain dry most of the time.


----------



## Johnny (Oct 13, 2017)

use the "Search" feature for transom repair or replacement. (top right corner of this page).

several good threads on this subject.
the most important thing you need to keep in mind is that
epoxy and polyester resins are not UV resistant . . . thus comes the breakdown.
whatever you choose, it must be top-coated with a SPAR varnish or oil based enamel paint.
MinWax Helmsman "Spar Urethane" is for furniture and indoor projects. (not outside projects).
it has very little UV inhibitors and should not be used as such on its own merit. 
AB or BC/X pine plywood is a good choice. as well as MDO (medium density overlay) plywood (NOT MDF).
done correctly, it will outlast your boat.


----------



## SeaFaring (Oct 13, 2017)

If I’m not mistaken, yellawood is pressure treated and would be the worst thing you could use. I know that’s the case for their non-laminated materials. 

Regular exterior ply (A/B/CX) is the standard. 

That epoxy should be fine as long as you too coat it with something for UV protection, as Johnny suggested. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## lckstckn2smknbrls (Oct 13, 2017)

Another good sealer is a home made mix called Old Timers Formula. It's one part of Boiled Linseed Oil, one part Spar Varnish or Spar Urethane and two parts Mineral Spirts. You mix up as much as you need.


----------



## Johnny (Oct 14, 2017)

I sent a note to the YellaWood company a few months ago asking about
their new formula being more "aluminum friendly" . . . and they said noooooooo.
the acids that attack aluminum are still present in the wood and it is HIGHLY
suggested not to use any of the YellaWood products directly in physical contact with aluminum.
If you want to use aluminum, a barrier such as rubber gasket material must be used.



.


----------



## RaisedByWolves (Oct 14, 2017)

Not that I doubt you, but that runs contrary to what their website says.


I found a West marine locally and got some good info and advice from them. Their stuff is not cheap but it is made with this type of use in mind.

The UV issue will be addressed just for peace of mind but their in store guy didnt think it was necessary given my use and storage conditions.


The one thing he did tell me was not to use pressure treated due to the oilyish surface will reject most coatings.

I worked in a Pressure treat plant for about 3-4 months, nasty work.


----------



## Johnny (Oct 14, 2017)

> *I worked in a Pressure treatment plant for about 3-4 months,*



well, then . . . Mr. Wolves, if you worked there, you must know way more than us !!!
so please share your photos of any pressure treated wood and aluminum projects with us.
the cumulative inquiring minds want to know !!

and again, I think this issue boils down to MCA, ACQ and copper that is used in the treatment process.
so - if the product data sheet says it is okay to use in direct contact with aluminum . . . 
your boat = your call.



.


----------



## RaisedByWolves (Oct 14, 2017)

Johnny said:


> > *I worked in a Pressure treatment plant for about 3-4 months,*
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Is this really necessary?


"The cumulative"? Do you presume to speak for everyone here?

I apologize if I have hurt your "Feelings" or triggered you in some deep personal way, but I would think west marine and the wooden boat builders might be able to give a fresh view into what you may personally take as gospel.

Were not building rockets here, so if you cant be civil and not act childish maybe you can please overlook this thread from now on?


----------



## RaisedByWolves (Oct 14, 2017)

Good edit. :roll: 


Going back and re reading their (yellawood) site their information regarding using it in contact with aluminum is rather vague.


ALUMINUM
Aluminum building products may be placed in direct contact with YellaWood® brand products with micronized copper preservatives used for interior uses and above-ground exterior applications such as decks, fencing, and landscaping projects. Examples of aluminum products include siding, roofing, gutters, door and window trim, flashing, nails, fasteners and other hardware connectors. However, direct contact of micronized copper treated products and aluminum building products should be limited to code-compliant construction applications that provide proper water drainage and do not allow the wood to be exposed to, or remain in contact with, a continual moisture source, standing water or water immersion. In addition, micronized copper treated wood should not be encased, sealed, or wrapped with aluminum products where trapped moisture or water can occur so as to avoid pitting or other unwanted results.


----------

