# Yamaha F25 1st oil change



## blackshear (May 16, 2019)

I did the recommended oil change after 20 hours of break in on my 2019 Yamaha F25. When I checked the oil after putting the recommended 1.06 quarts (didn't change the filter) it was only about 1/3 up the dip stick. I ran it for a couple of minutes and it measured the same so I added a little more oil until it was almost to the full mark (the engine was sitting level when I checked the oil). After watching a couple of videos on oil change for the F25 they were getting oil 1/2 way up the dip stick. Was I wrong to add more oil to get it to the full mark? I certainly don't want to damage my new engine.


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## Pappy (May 16, 2019)

No, you were not wrong but Yamaha typically fills to around the halfway mark after the engine has been started, shut off for a period and checked. It is what it is! 
If you also changed gear oil you should note that the fill/drain screw seals are a one-time only usage per Yamaha. Keep some on hand.


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## blackshear (May 16, 2019)

Pappy said:


> No, you were not wrong but Yamaha typically fills to around the halfway mark after the engine has been started, shut off for a period and checked. It is what it is!
> If you also changed gear oil you should note that the fill/drain screw seals are a one-time only usage per Yamaha. Keep some on hand.



I was just about to change the foot oil. I will wait until I get some new seals. Thanks


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## turbotodd (May 16, 2019)

According to Yamaha.....

The dipstick doesn't have a "full" and "low" mark. It has a "low" and "high" mark. High is not "full". They recommend it to be roughly 1/2 to 3/4 the way between the low and high marks; and the reasoning behind this is that all 4 stroke outboards have a tendency to "make oil" when used at idle/low speeds. This is perfectly normal, thus if the engine oil level is at the high mark with fresh oil, over a period of x number of hours idling and running low speeds, the oil level will rise enough to "vent" some oil into the air intake, causing oil to contaminate the incoming air/fuel mix, as well as contaminate the waterway that the motor's being used in, sorta like a 2 stroke. Also contributes to intake valve "coking".


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## RiverBottomOutdoors (May 17, 2019)

Should have changed the filter. The break in is for meeting parts to wear together. The F25 is a great motor...about bullet proof.


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## blackshear (May 19, 2019)

turbotodd said:


> According to Yamaha.....
> 
> The dipstick doesn't have a "full" and "low" mark. It has a "low" and "high" mark. High is not "full". They recommend it to be roughly 1/2 to 3/4 the way between the low and high marks; and the reasoning behind this is that all 4 stroke outboards have a tendency to "make oil" when used at idle/low speeds. This is perfectly normal, thus if the engine oil level is at the high mark with fresh oil, over a period of x number of hours idling and running low speeds, the oil level will rise enough to "vent" some oil into the air intake, causing oil to contaminate the incoming air/fuel mix, as well as contaminate the waterway that the motor's being used in, sorta like a 2 stroke. Also contributes to intake valve "coking".



Thanks for the information. You explained it much better than what I read in the owner’s manual. I drained out enough oil to get it down to little over the 1/2 way mark on the dip stick. I did not change the oil filter because it’s not recommended until 100 hours according to the manual. I may do another oil change in another 20 hours and change the filter then. I used the Yamaha 10W-30 oil this change. Is it best to stay with the Yamaha oil or is there a benefit to going with Mobil 1 synthetic?


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## Pappy (May 19, 2019)

We probably do close to 100 20hr services per year. A bunch more 100/300 hour or yearly services. We change the oil filter with EVERY oil change. Why not? Actually the most break-in debris will be in the first few hours of operation and I would definitely change the filter at 20 hours. 
Even if you do not reach the 100 hour mark in a calendar year the oil and filter should still be changed due to the acids built up in the crankcase and oil.


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## turbotodd (May 19, 2019)

There is exactly zero benefit to mobil 1 over Yamalube 4M. Without starting an "oil war", at the Yamaha school, they talked for FOUR days about different lubricant qualities and what they do inside a running engine. Different engines have different needs. An outboard will run at redline (6000 RPM) for hours on end, full throttle, full load. A car engine--runs at 1/4 load or less, low RPM, and low throttle input. And it has air passing around the oil pan to help regulate the oil temps. Outboards don't have that luxury, so they use seawater for the oil cooler. The bad part is that seawater isn't always the same temp. Those in the Northern states might use theirs in water temps in the 20's and 30's, those of us in the South might see water temps in the 90's, so the engine oil temperatures can vary a LOT more than a car's engine oil temp (which is usually around 200 deg most all the time). For those reasons and a LOT more, yamaha recommends ONLY the fluids and filters that are yamaha branded.

The filter and no fluid change was an issue brought up at the meeting as well. Just change the filter at each oil change. Does no harm aside from costing $12 and change. Don't use a Fram. Use the correct Yamaha filter; it's slightly more $$ but how much do you value your outboard, and how badly do you want to avoid sitting out in the middle of the lake with a blown motor, flagging your hands to get anyone to tow you back to the ramp? Hopefully that tow boat is yamaha powered; if not, you'll never hear the end of it. LOL!

In the owner's manual, there's a maintenance log chart. Keep log of your maintenance. Don't forget the water pump impeller once a year.

If for some reason you sell the motor and upgrade to something bigger, or whatever, that filled out maintenance chart typically adds a few hundred dollars to the value of the motor.


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## Brian121804 (May 23, 2019)

" yamaha recommends ONLY the fluids and filters that are yamaha branded."

Curious, do you have any data as to oil related failure rates before & after the advent FC-W oils? (Genuine question, not trolling)

FWIW my F25 started with a conventional mercury branded oil (because that's what the dealer supplied).
1st oil change was M1 high mileage. Currently running Rotella T6.
I'm pretty sure any modern oil is more than sufficient for this application.

Do a little research, run what makes you feel good. 
Odds are your motor is gonna die from something other than the "wrong" oil.


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## turbotodd (May 23, 2019)

kdgrills said:


> " yamaha recommends ONLY the fluids and filters that are yamaha branded."
> 
> Curious, do you have any data as to oil related failure rates before & after the advent FC-W oils? (Genuine question, not trolling)
> 
> ...



We ain't starting no oil war.

Yes I have documentation. It is FULL of trade secrets, thus can't be shared. I spent an entire week going through the chemical makeup and what the concoctions do to lubricating fluids and their different applications. It applies to all engines that use a lubricating oil, including 2 stroke gas, 2 & 4 stroke diesel, turbine, etc. Was WAY more information than I wanted and quite frankly most of it WAY over my head. But again, a lot of the information that was talked about reveals chemical makeup and percentages thereof, and all trade "secret". 

Lastly I'll offer up one more point. There is a BOAT LOAD of WRONG information on the web, and people tend to spout it off all the time. That's all I'm gonna say about it.....

There is also a ton of marketing (and associated gimmicks) that's involved with lubricating fluids, well because they have products to sell. But keep in mind, they might talk their product up way better than anyone else does, but a lot of the time it's what they DON'T talk about that is important.

Because of the hype and gimmicks, I believe that's why many oil wars get started both online and in person. Kinda like the Ford vs Chevy debate. Sure to get people worked up....


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## GYPSY400 (May 26, 2019)

FWIW.. changing the filter is the most important part of an oil change.. I work on heavy equipment and we actually change the filters twice as offer as the oils.
Also I'd recommend staying with genuine Yamaha products until the warranty is over... They know what the engine needs so play it safe and run their products. The cost difference is not significant on a motor worth thousands of dollars.


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## blackshear (May 28, 2019)

Twice I drained some oil out of the engine to bring it down to the 3/4 high mark. After running it for 2-3 hours each time the oil level would go back to the high mark so today I purchased another quart of oil and oil filter. This time when I change it I will only add the recommended amount of oil plus change the oil filter too. I/2 way up the dip stick is good! LOL


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## blackshear (May 29, 2019)

Any tips on how to not make such a mess when changing the oil filter? I tilted the motor up all the way and turned it to the left to drain the oil. Then I let back down to remove the oil filter and refill with new oil. I suppose that I should have left the motor tilted up to prevent oil from spilling out of the filter and on to my motor. I spent 30 minutes or more trying to clean up the mess I made on my brand new motor.


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## LDUBS (May 30, 2019)

blackshear said:


> Any tips on how to not make such a mess when changing the oil filter? I tilted the motor up all the way and turned it to the left to drain the oil. Then I let back down to remove the oil filter and refill with new oil. I suppose that I should have left the motor tilted up to prevent oil from spilling out of the filter and on to my motor. I spent 30 minutes or more trying to clean up the mess I made on my brand new motor.



Good question. I look forward to hearing if there is a secret out there. I don't have a Yamaha, but have the same problem with my previous Merc and current Honda. I always stuff as much rag as I can under the filter before I unscrew it. Helps a lot, but I hope to hear there is a better way.


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## Brian121804 (May 30, 2019)

blackshear said:


> Any tips on how to not make such a mess when changing the oil filter? I tilted the motor up all the way and turned it to the left to drain the oil. Then I let back down to remove the oil filter and refill with new oil. I suppose that I should have left the motor tilted up to prevent oil from spilling out of the filter and on to my motor. I spent 30 minutes or more trying to clean up the mess I made on my brand new motor.



I tilted up & tipped starboard for a minute to allow the filter to drain into the crankcase, tilted down & stuffed a rag under it.
I use a vacuum fluid extractor, so I don't have to mess with the drain plug.


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## turbotodd (May 30, 2019)

On most Yamaha's, if you don't start the engine before removing the filter, VERY little engine oil comes out. When I say before removing the filter, 24 hrs or more is about right. May be similar on other motors, but I can't recall as I'm primarily working with Yamaha's now.

Yes to the extractor! Best investment ever in my shop! I made mine, though, out of an old air tank and a bunch of fittings, valves, and a vacuum venturi.


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## blackshear (May 31, 2019)

I always thought it was best to run the engine before changing the oil. Maybe that is one of my mistakes plus not having a pump. After going back through this second oil change plus filter this time the oil is reading only 1/4 of the way up the dipstick. That is after running it for 5 minutes and letting it sit for 12 hours to be sure all of the oil has settled into the crankcase. I refilled it with 1 quart 5 oz of Yamaha oil. I am tempted to add a little bit more oil but after my last experience I guess it is best to leave it alone.


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## Brian121804 (May 31, 2019)

blackshear said:


> I always thought it was best to run the engine before changing the oil. Maybe that is one of my mistakes plus not having a pump. After going back through this second oil change plus filter this time the oil is reading only 1/4 of the way up the dipstick. That is after running it for 5 minutes and letting it sit for 12 hours to be sure all of the oil has settled into the crankcase. I refilled it with 1 quart 5 oz of Yamaha oil. I am tempted to add a little bit more oil but after my last experience I guess it is best to leave it alone.



I was taught to warm up before an oil change as well. Brings any contaminants into suspension, allowing them to drain. 
If it's within range on the dipstick I'd call it good, another oz isn't gonna make a difference.


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