# Open 16ft starcraft SS with tiller?



## g0nef1sshn (Jan 21, 2015)

I recently purchased a 16ft Starcraft SS w/no motor. It has the consoles and steering still in it. Im thinking of maybe opening it up and using a tiller motor. I know the splash guard is huge and shouldnt be removed. Ive searched as much as I could for a picture of someone that has done this to no avail. Can anyone link me up with some pictures of someone that has done this? Ill be using this boat for duck hunting and family outings.

Thanks in advance.

Once I get the boat to my garage I plan on trying to keep a build thread going. I love this site since I got this boat.


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## g0nef1sshn (Jan 21, 2015)

heres some pics. The deck and transom are two things that definatley need replacing. ofcourse checking for the leaks once the deck is out. This will be a slow budgeted process. Wish the good stuff actually grew on trees.


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## ericman (Jan 22, 2015)

We bought almost the same exact boat and converted it. I took out the splash well and then completely re-did the transom as you can see in the picture.

So, instead of the transom dropping down right away from the gunwhale, I kept it high as far over as I could and still allow the motor to rotate it's full amount. It's better than wave whackers. Very little water gets in and that's only if you backtroll into good rollers. I don't weld so I just overlapped new aluminum and made a new piece for the inside as well. A bead of either construction adhesive or JB-Weld between the new piece and the existing hull works better than silicone and it's all bolted together with 1/4"-20 bolts really tightly. Then I remove 1 bolt at a time and replace it with solid 1/4" rivets.


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## ericman (Jan 22, 2015)

Here's some other pics, one of the inside of the starcraft, and 2 of another boat that I converted from short shaft to long shaft


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## DuraCraft (Jan 22, 2015)

I think ye got a good one.


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## g0nef1sshn (Jan 22, 2015)

Thank you for the pics. That helps a lot. Think ill go for open floor plan and till on this one.


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## g0nef1sshn (Feb 13, 2015)

got started today. Finally. Few questions as I go. Fiberglasss over wood- redo or original? It looked like pretty good attempt. the yellow spray foam stuff was saturated/water logged, but the white is damp on outside but dry inside, should I re-use? Thi floor rotted from bottom up. More to do tomorrow.


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## Skiffing (Feb 13, 2015)

I used to have a budgeted process too.

Good looking project.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Feb 13, 2015)

Replace the foam with the blue or pink closed cell foam insulating panels.


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## ericman (Feb 16, 2015)

I agree with lckstckn2smknbrls, use the sheet foam, but don't put any in the center sections, you want plenty of airspace for the water to flow to the back of the boat to the drain and the airspace allows it to dry out, just make an access panel for you bilge that you can take out to allow air flow. Also, you have plenty of space behind the side panels to put flotation foam. Pack as much as you can in those side panels and the sections of floor that aren't in the center.


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## g0nef1sshn (Mar 3, 2015)

Started stripping the hull.


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## onthewater102 (Mar 3, 2015)

Just be aware that the blue and pink foam you buy from the big box home improvement stores will dissolve into goo if gasoline spills on it - the original foam was urethane based and the manufacturers use it because it won't react with gasoline.


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## g0nef1sshn (Mar 5, 2015)

Few more pics of the paint stripping.


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## earl60446 (Mar 5, 2015)

onthewater102 said:


> Just be aware that the blue and pink foam you buy from the big box home improvement stores will dissolve into goo if gasoline spills on it - the original foam was urethane based and the manufacturers use it because it won't react with gasoline.



Interesting, I did not know that. Wondered about it when I spilled gas in the boat. Pretty sure mine is all original white foam because my floor is aluminum.


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## onthewater102 (Mar 5, 2015)

There are also two types of polystyrene foam sold for home insulation - extruded and expanded. Only extruded is closed cell, so it shouldn't absorb water over time. Of course it's the one you want to use and naturally the more expensive of the two.

I opted to go with the expanding 2-part marine urethane foam - just meant i had to design cavities which could be filled separately and i needed drainage lines from the front compartment to the rear of the boat for any rainwater/splash etc. that gets up front to have someplace to go...I'm very happy with it as it let me use FRP sheeting for the decking material & kept the whole boat very light while being a fraction the cost of aluminum sheeting...


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## g0nef1sshn (Mar 11, 2015)

Picked up a new to me trailer for the boat and keepin on chippin away.


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## earl60446 (Mar 11, 2015)

Gonefishin

If I were you and had to replace the transom on that boat and assuming it is now a short shaft transom, I would consider changing it to a long shaft transom. Then I would lose the splashwell and put braces to the transom. Be a great tiller boat then and you would have lots of room and no worries about a low transom.
Tim


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## g0nef1sshn (Mar 16, 2015)

Almost done. Its getting there.


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## g0nef1sshn (Mar 22, 2015)

OK so thhe stripping is done and I got her flipped back over. I gave it a good pressure washing insinde and filled it with water and found several leaks at and around/under the transom knee brace. Sooooo.... off it came. I have three pitted holes and a rivet to replace/fix there. One more pitted hole in hull off to the side. And two slow leaks in the bow seams to address. I ordered Solid rivets and cleco's and picked up a few supplies including 3m 5200.


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## g0nef1sshn (Mar 22, 2015)

earl60446 said:


> Gonefishin
> 
> If I were you and had to replace the transom on that boat and assuming it is now a short shaft transom, I would consider changing it to a long shaft transom. Then I would lose the splashwell and put braces to the transom. Be a great tiller boat then and you would have lots of room and no worries about a low transom.
> Tim



I am looking into making the transom length 25-26 inches. Its currently 21". I did remove the splashwell and I dont intend to put it back in, but thats not certain yet.


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## earl60446 (Mar 22, 2015)

g0nef1sshn said:


> earl60446 said:
> 
> 
> > Gonefishin
> ...


 If it is already 21 inches, you may want to leave it that length. 25 inches is a extra long shaft, might be hard to find. A short shaft is 15 inches.
Tim


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## g0nef1sshn (Mar 22, 2015)

earl60446 said:


> g0nef1sshn said:
> 
> 
> > earl60446 said:
> ...



Without the splash well I may want that added length to the transom. It will be something to look into on the motor side though. thanks for the tip.


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## 1lhorn (Mar 23, 2015)

> There are also two types of polystyrene foam sold for home insulation - extruded and expanded. Only extruded is closed cell,



Not true. From Wiki:

"Expanded polystyrene (EPS) is a rigid and tough, closed-cell foam."

Extruded is however more resistant to absorbing water:
"Extruded polystyrene foam...
Water vapour diffusion resistance (μ) of XPS is around 80–250 and so makes it more suitable to wetter environments than EPS."

"Water absorption of polystyrene foams
Although it is a closed-cell foam, both expanded and extruded polystyrene are not entirely waterproof or vaporproof.[25] In expanded polystyrene there are interstitial gaps between the expanded closed-cell pellets that form an open network of channels between the bonded pellets, and this network of gaps can become filled with liquid water. If the water freezes into ice, it expands and can cause polystyrene pellets to break off from the foam. Extruded polystyrene is also permeable by water molecules and can not be considered a vapor barrier."

"Waterlogging commonly occurs over a long period of time in polystyrene foams that are constantly exposed to high humidity or are continuously immersed in water, such as in hot tub covers, in floating docks, as supplemental flotation under boat seats, and for below-grade exterior building insulation constantly exposed to groundwater."

HD and Lowe's that I've checked in my area (northern california) do not seem to carry pink or blue XPS. They only carry white EPS with a foil barrier on one side. Both stores carry this same item called "R Tech." I can only assume that prolong exposure to the pink or blue foam can cause impotence in the rare and majestic white tail tit mouse so naturally it wouldn't be available to us with that risk.

While I believe that prolonged exposure to water can waterlog EPS, I know the EPS in my nearly 20 year old boat is still bone dry. So because I can't get blue or pink, I"m going with white and will put the foil lined side face down.


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## g0nef1sshn (Mar 25, 2015)

Got some more braces off and cleaned up.


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## ericman (Mar 25, 2015)

I agree about the transom height, 25" is reserved for the likes of sailboat kicker motors (under 15 hp) and very large boats (over 150 hp). To go 25" you'd almost for certain have to buy a 21" and then get a conversion kit which might be another $700. 

Re-visit the pictures I posted of basically the same exact boat that you have, the one with the 25 hp Suzuki on it. I made that transom taller throughout most of the width of the boat with just enough of a gap where the transom height is only 22" with just enough room for the motor to go through its whole range of motion left to right up and down. It works perfect. UNLESS you are a really large man or plan on putting a really heavy motor on the back, taking in water will not be an issue. A newer (1995 or newer) tiller in the 30 - 50 hp range will be more than enough horsepower AND will probably have a long enough tiller handle to allow you to put your seat far enough forward so you are not putting your weight at the very back of the boat. Your boat is possibly rated for up to 85 hp. The splashwell was a necessity as an 85 hp motor can weigh over 300 pounds. A big 40 might only weigh 160.

Another thing to consider. If money is no object and you do build a 25" transom, a standard seat height might make reaching the tiller handle a bit awkward as it might seem high. Just my 2 cents.


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## g0nef1sshn (Mar 25, 2015)

ericman said:


> I agree about the transom height, 25" is reserved for the likes of sailboat kicker motors (under 15 hp) and very large boats (over 150 hp). To go 25" you'd almost for certain have to buy a 21" and then get a conversion kit which might be another $700.
> 
> Re-visit the pictures I posted of basically the same exact boat that you have, the one with the 25 hp Suzuki on it. I made that transom taller throughout most of the width of the boat with just enough of a gap where the transom height is only 22" with just enough room for the motor to go through its whole range of motion left to right up and down. It works perfect. UNLESS you are a really large man or plan on putting a really heavy motor on the back, taking in water will not be an issue. A newer (1995 or newer) tiller in the 30 - 50 hp range will be more than enough horsepower AND will probably have a long enough tiller handle to allow you to put your seat far enough forward so you are not putting your weight at the very back of the boat. Your boat is possibly rated for up to 85 hp. The splashwell was a necessity as an 85 hp motor can weigh over 300 pounds. A big 40 might only weigh 160.
> 
> Another thing to consider. If money is no object and you do build a 25" transom, a standard seat height might make reaching the tiller handle a bit awkward as it might seem high. Just my 2 cents.




Those are good points, I didnt think about the 25 lenght and motor sizes. Im keeping it 21 and like you did on yours, maybe make the transom higher on the sides where the motor can still sits right and can turn.

Thanks for the tips guys.


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## g0nef1sshn (Apr 4, 2015)

painted some transom support pieces. Thats the color the hull should be when done.


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## onthewater102 (Apr 4, 2015)

I don't know where you're located, but I have a 50hp Evinrude with the throttle controls that is in top shape that I bought for a project the wife will never let me get to - I've got it on craigslist locally in Western CT. I've got it priced to move if it interests you.


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## g0nef1sshn (Apr 15, 2015)

onthewater102 said:


> I don't know where you're located, but I have a 50hp Evinrude with the throttle controls that is in top shape that I bought for a project the wife will never let me get to - I've got it on craigslist locally in Western CT. I've got it priced to move if it interests you.



Down in Ga, But thanks, Im a ways off from getting a motor at this point. Dont even have room to store a free one if it was dropped off in the drive way.


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## g0nef1sshn (Apr 15, 2015)

Got the transom braces back in with solid rivets. Used 2 pop rivets on the bottom knee brace though. Should hold fine. Globbered all of them up with 5200 sealer. That stuff is some messy crap. Next on the list is gluvit on all the inside hull rivets and putting the floor Z braces back in the center of the hull.


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## g0nef1sshn (Apr 22, 2015)

Had to fix two more leaks. I had the left one marked but forgot about it messing with the knee brace stuff. The right one I thought I had patched good but was wrong. Goobered up 5200 on pop rivets since they wouldnt be structural at all and popped them in. (red circles.)

I gotta stop messing with the yellow circles and Id be ggetting a lot more done.


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## fool4fish1226 (Apr 22, 2015)

Coming along nicely - keep up the good work :beer:


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## g0nef1sshn (Apr 23, 2015)

Appreciate it fool4fish!

The first coat of glovit is down!!! Big step since after this comes the transom and deck. (in that order). Ill put a second coat of glovit down tomorrow, then weather is sposed to be bad saturday. Sunday Ill be putting together a duck blind with a friend I made here hunting last year. Ill put pics up after the blind. Itll just be the framing though. Maybe Ill paint before the wood work since i already have the paint stuff though.


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## g0nef1sshn (Apr 26, 2015)

Thinking about painting before the wood work now to keep it lighter for the flip. I did put some support down over the rib ends to give the new deck something sold to grab hold of. All the rib ends already had multiple holes from previous redo's.


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## g0nef1sshn (May 5, 2015)

So today I picked up (2) 2x4x12 rough cut cedar boards to replace the bunks. Then I double guess if its the right kind of cedar. Any opinions on this? I only need them 10' long. I've read some say it dries and cracks fast, others I read say you need red cedar? I don't know. They weren't that much so I dont have to use them.

Also picked up I sheet of ACX ply to maybe get the transom wood figured out. Ill be painting the boat first, but I figure this will give me time to get it cut and sealed while the paint is drying anyway. 

Ordered the large flange rivets also. went with the 3/16th's with the 1" grip.


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## CMOS (May 7, 2015)

Nicely done. Looking forward to watching this thread.  


CMOS


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## g0nef1sshn (May 9, 2015)

Made a cardboard piece fit then cut some wood today. Still need to do all the rest though, got two pieces that fit in there.


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## g0nef1sshn (May 10, 2015)

Just went beast mode. Couldnt wait for the friend to get here so another one man operation. Leverage is the key and only pulled one hamstring . Momma went shopping and the girls were napping. Boats flipped and ready for some rivet stripping, washing and painting!


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## onthewater102 (May 11, 2015)

I take it you tested the leaks again to make sure the patches fixed them? Looks like you're going to have one awesome boat on your hands when you're done - those longitudinal braces are going to stiffen that rig up nicely.


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## g0nef1sshn (May 11, 2015)

onthewater102 said:


> I take it you tested the leaks again to make sure the patches fixed them? Looks like you're going to have one awesome boat on your hands when you're done - those longitudinal braces are going to stiffen that rig up nicely.



Ya I redid the leak test. All known leaks are sealed at this point. Im hoping there arent anymore but so far they havnt really been too difficult to take care of.

Going to look at a donor boat tomorrow with an older 65 merc on it. If I can sell the trailer and dump the boat, the motor will be free. Condition and if it runs or will run is another story. Might not go with the tiller just yet.


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## g0nef1sshn (May 12, 2015)

Passed on the donor boat. Talked to the son this morning and it sounded too far gone even for the motor without knowing previous salt water use. Leave a chance for a new or newer motor down the road. Not to mention I really didnt have room for it to begin with and would have took the next 2-3 days to strip, discard, and hide the trailer from the HOA.

Got the vinegar/water wash down complete and a coat of primer on. Im going to leave the hull bare as I will not be in salt water and I am curious about the self protection aspect. I can Always paint it down the road. I did prime where I redid the transom knee brace hull rivets though. Thats the only part of the hull that will be painted.

Pics will be up later.


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## g0nef1sshn (May 12, 2015)

no more shine in the driveway....


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## g0nef1sshn (May 16, 2015)

Got some color now.


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## g0nef1sshn (May 17, 2015)

got to the other side today.


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## Kris (May 17, 2015)

Lookin good and will be something to be proud of when complete. I know your pain. Kris


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## g0nef1sshn (May 18, 2015)

Thanks Kris

If im not huffing paint stripper or gluvit, Its Spar sealer! Put a thin coat on each side and let it soak a bit then hit a hefty coat on it. Ill let that dry up a few hours. Made sure to hit all the edges too. I know I still have to cut out where the motor will go, but atleast the sealing will be done except where I cut. Went ahead and made a stool for some friends of our little one while I was out there. I made one for our girls and they liked it so itll be a little gift when we see them this weekend.


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## g0nef1sshn (May 27, 2015)

got the transom in.


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## Brackett (May 28, 2015)

Looking good! Is the Eye bolts in the transom mounted like you have them from the factory? I have my eye on 16' Starcraft SS right now and was thinking about doing away with the splash well(If I buy it of course). Your build is exactly how I was thinking of doing the transom.


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## g0nef1sshn (May 28, 2015)

Brackett said:


> Looking good! Is the Eye bolts in the transom mounted like you have them from the factory? I have my eye on 16' Starcraft SS right now and was thinking about doing away with the splash well(If I buy it of course). Your build is exactly how I was thinking of doing the transom.



Im not sure if its from factory but I went back through the holes I removed them from. If you do the same thing, Dont seal the wood then sandwich them like I did. Cut it and put them together first, then seal. Thats one thing I learned.


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## g0nef1sshn (May 29, 2015)

got the new bunks on. Spar sealed top and sides and did the same with the carpet. The bunks are cedar 2x4's. Not sure if they will last 10 years or 4. We will see. The middle support was 3/4 inches short I guess from the original boat the trailer was made for, so I sealed some 3/4 ply left over from the transom and filled it in.


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## Gators5220 (May 30, 2015)

Comin together nicely man.


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## g0nef1sshn (Jun 2, 2015)

Got some work done today before dropping her off tomorrow for the transom cap. 6 more total bolts through the transom. 4 holes were already there (4 white smeared bolts below aluminum rectangles). Then I drilled a hole between each of the 4 old drains for the splashwell (2 new holes to cover 4). 5200'd those pates on and bolted center covered them pretty nicely. There were 5 more 1/4 inch holes in the transom skin so I filled those with a little JB weld. It will get all cleaned up once I have it back. Added plates both sides because those two below them started sinking into the wood and I didnt like that feeling. I aslo put 1 inch SS lag screws in the z brace. I didnt 5200 on the inside, but I did bead the top with it to help keep water out. I know I make a mess of that stuff.


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## g0nef1sshn (Jun 26, 2015)

Been awhile. The cap wasnt made in time for me so i picked it up to have something to do on the weekends. I got the deck cut out. 3/4 ACX sealed with several coats of spar. Also picked up carpet and glue. 

A bow piece of wood was rotted so bad I took it out by hand. To put a full piece back in I would have had to disassemble more than I wanted too. So I added aluminum angle with rivets across the front and cut 2 seperate pieces to fit in there. Its a pretty solid fix up there. I can cut some cleaner pieces of wood to fit on the next go around.


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## g0nef1sshn (Jun 28, 2015)

ok, Made up for lost time. got 2 pieces in. the rest will probably have to wait till next weekend.


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## g0nef1sshn (Jul 3, 2015)

After some fighting I got the bow section in. Even put the drill through the side of the Hull! OOps. Pop rivet with 5200 fixed that mistake.


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## onthewater102 (Jul 3, 2015)

Coming along nicely! that's an awesome open floor you're going to end up with.


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## g0nef1sshn (Jul 3, 2015)

Gonna get even more open when I cut out the front deck to redo it another way. Got the carpet in this morning.


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## g0nef1sshn (Jul 3, 2015)

front deck is cut out and the new one is fitted in for now. Kids woke up from nap so im back inside. Went with another small deck. Havnt decided yet if im gonna make an opening or fill it with foam yet?


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## overboard (Jul 3, 2015)

Nice job! Looks like that's going to be a darn nice boat.


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## g0nef1sshn (Jul 3, 2015)

overboard said:


> Nice job! Looks like that's going to be a darn nice boat.



Thanks overboard.

Made the choice to fill it with foam. Hoping if i ever get a leak this boat will be bobber!


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## Jake11 (Jul 5, 2015)

This boat is turning out awesome! I love how open it is. I've got to keep my eyes open for one of these. They go cheaper around here than a regular jon boat.


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## g0nef1sshn (Jul 5, 2015)

Jake11 said:


> This boat is turning out awesome! I love how open it is. I've got to keep my eyes open for one of these. They go cheaper around here than a regular jon boat.



Thanks, The room inside is nice. 

Got both side walls cut, glued and carpeted. Hoping to finish up some inside paint tomorrow and get these secured in.


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## g0nef1sshn (Jul 6, 2015)

Got more paint in, and a few large flange rivets to hold it in. I have to pick up a few bolts to finish it up. Got my teething small one home with me today though so maybe next weekend! Also still need to do some touch up paint with a brush, And I still need to get that front deck secured down more, but I thinking that one through some more.


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## Master-deBaiter (Jul 30, 2015)

I am anxiously waiting to see if you've been able to make more progress. Hope all is well with the fam! I've got a little one, too... I know life can get crazy busy
You're definitely doing some good craftsmanship so far btw


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## g0nef1sshn (Sep 5, 2015)

Master-deBaiter said:


> I am anxiously waiting to see if you've been able to make more progress. Hope all is well with the fam! I've got a little one, too... I know life can get crazy busy
> You're definitely doing some good craftsmanship so far btw



Its been awhile, I havnt really gotten much done build wise lately, I did manage to do a little camo painting. Got one side done. Im thinking of paint the top tan and continuing this pattern on the top and inside as well now.


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## g0nef1sshn (Sep 6, 2015)

got the rest of the outside finished. Ill probably cover some of the transom with more aluminum, but I had to do it to see how it looks. Im out of tape and green rattle can so thats it for now. Once I get more supplies im doing the inside the same way to wrap it all in.


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## g0nef1sshn (Sep 10, 2015)

Got the to side done, Hoping to get the inside finished today or tomorrow.


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## g0nef1sshn (Sep 11, 2015)

Got the inside done. Not much I can do to it now until I pull it into some cover and get an outside perspective of how it will actually look. The areas I plan on hunting eventually the most is the sawgrass in south florida so I think it should blend in fine. (plus the added palm branches we use to help out. 

still need a motor though. Thats the biggest purchase I need but dont really have the means at the moment so looks like its hunting out of the yak again this year.


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## Texas Prowler (Sep 11, 2015)

Nice camo!


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## g0nef1sshn (Sep 17, 2015)

Texas Prowler said:


> Nice camo!



Thanks, I think its gonna work out fine. Kinda get worried doin a blank canvas wondering if youll like it in the end. I do thankfully. Had it out the other day playing around tryin to see how the kayak fits in. Also brought the splashwell back out. Might go ahead and strip it down and start planning on refitting it back into the boat.


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## Texas Prowler (Sep 18, 2015)

Man that looks really nice! Can't wait till i get a boat


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## g0nef1sshn (Sep 23, 2015)

Texas Prowler said:


> Man that looks really nice! Can't wait till i get a boat



Thanks TX.

Got the splashwell done and ready to go back in.


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## Texas Prowler (Sep 24, 2015)

Nice!


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## FloridaGrown (Sep 24, 2015)

Wow!!! This has come along very nicely.


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## g0nef1sshn (Sep 25, 2015)

FloridaGrown said:


> Wow!!! This has come along very nicely.



Appreciate it. Florida born and grown here too. Got more to do to keep me busy putting the splash well in and coming up with console ideas. Motor funds are on hold so its fiddle with what I can until then.


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## g0nef1sshn (Sep 25, 2015)

I ran outa tan and lighter green rattle can that I thought I had, but I placed the splash well in this morning with the clecos and got to playing with what i had, Black and a darker green. I have an awesome plan for my rear deck too now. Kinda hard to explain without doing it, so we will see if I ever get to it. If you can picture it though, it will be a door that covers the front of the splash well, that I can lift and slide back over the top of the slplash well when needed ( with braces) then pull back out when not. Might even have seat supports left/right/center for higher rear deck seating. Its a thought but i think I can make it happen.


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## g0nef1sshn (Sep 30, 2015)

Started the removable rear deck for standing/push poling.


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## g0nef1sshn (Oct 1, 2015)

got a few more things done last night and today. I put the transom brackets on with SS lag bolts and washers. put a little 5200 to help keep water from seeping in too. Dabbed some on the back of the brackets to help hold a tight stick also. Then I glued some carpet down on the platform. I didnt seal it though so no telling how long it lasts. It would be easy to rebuild and seal at a later date. Then I added a 2x4 with carpet to the center to help support the weight. That isnt sealed either so I expect to redo it in the future. This thing is solid. Also screwed the million splash well screws in with ss screws and washers.


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## g0nef1sshn (Oct 1, 2015)

here it is all back together. next step is to reverse sides of the walls and recut them to fit back in. But I need more large flange rivets to do that. I might wait to do it to see if I end up with a tiller or console motor again though. that rear deck is a good seat if I can get a tiller now....


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## g0nef1sshn (Oct 14, 2015)

Touched up a little bit on the paint on the splash well. I did all the seams with 5200 and painted those lines too. Also started cutting pieces of foam to fit under the splashwell sides.They are in there good and snug, but im thinking of ways to secure them so they are tight for good. Maybe a long bolt from the sidewall through them, or taping them all together. Its a work in progress.

Got the rest cut. only thing now is I am back in the tiller vs remote steer topic. I will need to cut more foam for the cables to go through the hole for them. But thats not a real big deal. Just didnt think about it before going with this route of added foam. I can make it work either way.

edit- I always forget these photos post backwards. You would think since people post pics in order mostly, the site would reverse this minor hiccup when uploading pics.


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## g0nef1sshn (Oct 21, 2015)

Well I had some time today and boxed in the one side. Its pretty solid. Ill do the other side maybe tomorrow, but I will first have to trim the foam more incase I end up with a console first. I have the bow facing piece of the side I did cut just rigth so if I have to remove the side wall it too will slide out just snug enough under the splash well. 

Almost made it to HD today to get some more stuff to start the seating, maybe tomorrow?....


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## g0nef1sshn (Oct 22, 2015)

started on the bench seat. Might change it to two box seats and a middle filler piece to be a complete bench?


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## g0nef1sshn (Oct 26, 2015)

latest progress on the bench. Decided to leave it floating and added and aluminum tray inside it for a little dry storage. Still planning out how ill have the top open up.


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## g0nef1sshn (Oct 29, 2015)

got the sides to the interior bench storage in. Might get out tomorrow and shop around how I am going to hinge the lid on.


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## Texas Prowler (Oct 30, 2015)

Man this just gets better and better. Very nice work man!


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## g0nef1sshn (Oct 31, 2015)

Bench is pretty much complete now.


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## g0nef1sshn (Nov 13, 2015)

Finished up boxing in the other side of the splashwell. Also cut the foam through the control hole incase I end up with a console instead of tiller to start with.


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## g0nef1sshn (Nov 16, 2015)

Latest and greatest! Got my seats able to be turned around, data sticker, and knife to knock weeds off motor i dont have lol!!


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## CMOS (Nov 18, 2015)

Magnificent. =D> 


CMOS


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## Johnny (Nov 18, 2015)

great job !!


how does the splash well drain ?


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## g0nef1sshn (Nov 18, 2015)

Johnny said:


> great job !!
> 
> 
> how does the splash well drain ?



great question. It doesnt yet. lol Thats still on the things to do list. and actually I forgot about that fact. Thanks for reminding me!


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## g0nef1sshn (Dec 16, 2015)

Ok, so I spent 5 bucks on a cheap hole drill thing and the bit tip broke on the first drill attempt. I did pre-drill a hole first too. So the bit tip breaking really shouldnt have broke like that Its just the deal with cheap stuff. Ill clean up the small angle piece and attach it to the knee brace with pop rivets when I have some more time. I liked how all I had to do was remove 5 screws to get that corner foam section out. only took 2 mins to do.

The exit cover was white. scuffed it with some sand paper, hit it with a primer and dusted in black spray paint. we will see how that holds up.


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## g0nef1sshn (Dec 20, 2015)

I put my girls down for a nap and went out to think about blinds. While sitting in it, two holes in the top sides were bothering me so I grabbed the box the held the old fishing rod holders that came with the boat. All 4 were white so I scuffed them up and painted them brown. Then I saw a roll of camo gorilla tape and went and was able to wrap 2 of them. came out nice I think. I sealed the tops of the two of the sides with a lock tight sealer and sprayed over in black. More touch up paint to do when I pick up more colors than black.

ordered a switch panel, when that gets in ill start running the wires and planning where exactly it will go.

Bilge is in but the base is still curing to the hull. Added "oh shoot" handles for the riders. Added some tie down points and start filling the seat with goodies. Ones getting wrapped and goin under the tree soon though.


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## g0nef1sshn (Jan 9, 2016)

got the splashwell drains in. I did it like the PO did with PVC. I put them in flush on the inside and a lip with another ring on the outside. Quick dry 5200 all over the place. Then I cut the plate I had covering the two holes to now only cover one. Used a fostner bit to drill through the transom.


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## g0nef1sshn (Feb 11, 2016)

Some recent updates... Got ahold of some pontoon walls to use as a blind.


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## g0nef1sshn (Feb 11, 2016)

And some more, adding backng plates under the gunnels. Plus checking out some camo.


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## JKTreveccaFishin (Feb 14, 2016)

Very cool!


Sent from my KFSOWI using Tapatalk


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## g0nef1sshn (Feb 15, 2016)

JKTreveccaFishin said:


> Very cool!
> 
> 
> Sent from my KFSOWI using Tapatalk



Thanks!

Got a lot more done last few days. Added lock nuts to all wall mounts. and getting the switch panel done.


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## g0nef1sshn (Feb 20, 2016)

And some more light....


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## g0nef1sshn (Mar 9, 2016)

Had to get a new battery to get all the lights to work right.


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## Texas Prowler (Mar 9, 2016)

Nice!

Sent from the dust in front of you!


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## g0nef1sshn (Jun 25, 2016)

Time for an update.

I managed to have my dad run and scoop up a 40 hp 1995 mercury 2 stroke for me with no controls or tiller. I ordered a tiller for it that arrived from Israel of all places and will be heading down to Florida 4th of july weekend to put it all together and bring it back to Georgia to put on the boat! Its almost time to actually get this boat in the water!


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## perchjerker (Jun 26, 2016)

wow great job

those boat registration numbers would never fly in Michigan LOL


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## g0nef1sshn (Jul 8, 2016)

perchjerker said:


> wow great job
> 
> those boat registration numbers would never fly in Michigan LOL



Thanks perch. I checked and doubled checked the regs on it here in Ga before going this route. Hope I got them right.


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## g0nef1sshn (Jul 8, 2016)

Got the motor on and tiller installed. It wasnt a direct fit though. Had to make a bracket for it go on. That still needs work and the key ignition needs wiring in still. Work is on hold I think until I can buy everything I need to get the rest done in one shot.


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## g0nef1sshn (Jul 23, 2016)

Got this old girl in the water finally! Motor ran fine but there is tweekin to do in the shifter and throttle. other than that there were no leaks and got on plain just fine! fishin and hunting ready.


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## g0nef1sshn (Nov 4, 2016)

Update and it has been awhile:I havnt done anything since the splash to the boat but a new (old correct(hopefully)) tiller handleis on the way. Thought I would have it today, looks like it will be here Monday.


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## derekdiruz (Nov 4, 2016)

Is it ready for duck season!?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## g0nef1sshn (Nov 4, 2016)

derekdiruz said:


> Is it ready for duck season!?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk



should be soon.


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## g0nef1sshn (Jan 22, 2017)

hit stump opening day, f d it up. still in the works. But we did get ducks on the opener! motor has been down since then. might not ever be up again. just an update....


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## derekdiruz (Jan 22, 2017)

F! That blows. This year, the X was close enough to the launch that we never once used an outboard. just electric this season! However, for next year, I'm undecided as if I should build a longtail or buy a 9.9 for my boat. The longtail would be nice for the crap areas, but I'm not sure. Good luck with your motor!


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