# 14' Starcraft Semi-V Rebuild



## SkagBass (Jan 19, 2011)

I picked up this boat and trailer at the start of 2010. I did a quick and easy mount of the trolling motor, ran some wires and fished it hard last year. Now it is time to rebuild this boat.

The plans are to replace all the wood in the boat with Jatoba (Brazilian Cherry Wood) - It is a very hard wood and I am using it because it was available at a great price. I am also stripping the paint and plan on using steelflex for the bottom but have not decided how to paint the above water portion or the inside yet. I will be putting in a shallow floor in the bow and adding a top area to mount the trolling motor again. I would Also like to enclose the area behind the back bench now that i have a duel bank charger to install.

This is the boat with last years addition of the TM. A few things i want to improve on is the TM mounting, Installing a floor and getting the fuel away from the battery.












Here are some recent photos of the boat striped of all things that attach to it. The previous owner put a lot of holes through the gunnel. As a result i am in the process of patching them with epoxy putty while preparing the wood.












I have been using a wire cup & wheel on my drill to remove the previous coats of paint, but i do not like the pattern that technique leaves behind. I will most likely be running the first part of the season with no paint on the boat. From advice I found here on tinboats, i will be using a scotch pad on my orbital hand sander. I have used it on a test area and like the results.






I will post more as I continue to work on the project. I have a mid April deadline, but i need to get out and fish way before that.


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## SkagBass (Feb 17, 2011)

Update on the work. Picked up a piece of aluminum channel 2x1x1x1/8. I used this as the center rail for my flooring. I will be putting a shallow floor in the front 2/3 of the boat. Now where did i put that rivet gun? I still need to source the channel for the cross pieces to be attached to the ribs. 









I have been continuing the work on the wooden pieces (benches, gunnel) I got the front bench extended and started collecting the hardware needed to start piecing this back together.






My goal is to get the hardware and holes drilled for the gunnel by the end of this weekend.


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## SkagBass (Mar 7, 2011)

The work on the boat has been slow at best. I did manage to get the wood for the bow (troling motor mount area) cut and fitted. I picked up some 1x1x1.5" aluminum channel and started work on the raised flooring. I am attaching the cross pieces to the ribs and will cut a raiser to go from the beam to the cross pieces. I will basically have two sections of raised floor. The first between the front bench and the bow. The second between the front seat and the removed middle bench. Here are a couple more photos


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## ncfishin (Mar 7, 2011)

Nice job up top on the caps. I like the look with the wood. Are you gonna follow that with the bench seats, and floor, as well? Just thought I'd pop in, and say good job. I got my boat about two yrs ago, and haven't done any mods yet, just fished. So, don't worry about the progress. Unless that's keepin you off the water. If that's the case, get it in gear. Just joshin. Keep up the good work.


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## devilmutt (Mar 7, 2011)

That wood looks nice. =D> We may have to start a Starcraft club with all the builds going on.


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## SkagBass (Mar 8, 2011)

Thanks guys. Unfortunately I don't have enough of the wood to do the floor with it. I will be putting down some Plywood and carpet for the floor. The front, gunnel, seats and transom are all done with the jatoba though. At this stage none of the wood is finished (protected) The inside of the top rail has some tung oil on it so i could see the color. I will be removing all the pieces, sanding them, and then apply some tung oil followed up with some spar varnish.

I should have some photos of the floor bracing by the end of the week. I am scheduled to take the boat into the welder early next week to get the floor supports attached.


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## Ictalurus (Mar 8, 2011)

Are you going to add any floatation? Boat looks great, love the wood.


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## SkagBass (Mar 8, 2011)

Ictalurus said:


> Are you going to add any floatation? Boat looks great, love the wood.



I removed the boxes under the benches that originally came with the boat. I do plan on adding the flotation foam that you mix to the voids under the new floor. Although it will primarily be in the bow and mid section. My understanding about the reason for the flotation foam is that if the boat starts taking on water, the foam will help keep it from completely sinking. I think i read somewhere, not to expect the foam to save your life, just your boat.  - Please correct me if I am wrong.


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## Ictalurus (Mar 8, 2011)

SkagBass said:


> My understanding about the reason for the flotation foam is that if the boat starts taking on water, the foam will help keep it from completely sinking.



That's what I've heard. Will float just enough to keep the outboard high enough out of the water long enough to get to shore, same as you, correct me if I'm wrong :lol:


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## reedjj (Mar 8, 2011)

Nice work so far. That wood is a nice touch. Can't wait to see it after you sand and stain it. Some brass fasteners would would be a really nice touch with the wood imho. Screws, davits, hooks on the ropes, etc.


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## HOUSE (Mar 10, 2011)

Ictalurus said:


> SkagBass said:
> 
> 
> > My understanding about the reason for the flotation foam is that if the boat starts taking on water, the foam will help keep it from completely sinking.
> ...


Does anyone have any idea how much extra time this magic foam really buys us? I added some, but mainly to cut down on noise. I have a feeling a lot of us on here have a false sense of security adding a few padded cushions under their 400 pound frame, myself included. I've decided that since I've got so much money tied up in my gear that if my boat starts going under, I'm going down with the ship! I'll have my thumb up and everything as I sink...just like that final scene from Terminator 2.

The boat looks awesome so far dude. I really like the color of that wood. Is that cedar?


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## SkagBass (Mar 10, 2011)

Thank you HOUSE,

You bring up a good point about the foam and sound insulation. Like you, i am more worried about the gear than the boat. The boat originally had foam under the benches but I have removed the boxes during this rebuild. I don't plan on putting them back.

The wood is called Jatoba (Brazilian Cherry Wood) - This stuff is so hard you could use it to cut cedar  

Update: I got all of the aluminum bracing cut and fitted for the floor last night. I will get some photos this weekend after if finish prepping the areas on the boat where the welds will go.


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## SkagBass (Mar 10, 2011)

I have a few questions to ask you all. I have started thinking about the electrical layout. I have included couple of drawings to get input from those in the know. I want to have a 24v system and a 12v system. Livewell, lights & sonar will be running off the 12v and the TM will be running off of the 24v.

First, looking at the 24v diagram, 





My question here is in reference to breakers on a 24v system. Should i get one breaker rated at 24v and install it in position 'B' or should i go with two 12v Breakers installed for each battery at position 'A' ? I do want the main power to the TM ran through a 24v switch as well.

Now looking at the 12v diagram,





1) looking at the switches, i can see that i need two different types of switches. I am not familiar as to what to call these when trying to source parts. The first switch for the lights (C) would need to have one switch that control two lights. Is that Double Pole Single Throw?
2) The second would be two switches, one for livewell and one for sonar. Would these be called Single Pole Single Throw?
3) I also have a MinKota duel bank charger to install for the 24v system. When charging the batteries in the 24v setup, do i need to disconnect the cable that ties the two batteries together (+ to -) before turning on the charger?


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## atuck593 (Mar 10, 2011)

HOUSE said:


> Ictalurus said:
> 
> 
> > SkagBass said:
> ...



I have had the same concern about the foam flotation. Does anyone know about how much foam you would need to keep the boat at the surface just enough to tow to shore? Besides loosing the money and time invested in your boat I am sure that your local fish and game commission would have a nice little fine for you? 

I know when it would fill with water it would not weigh as much because of the bouyancy of the water. Is there a certain cubic foot amount to work for?

I know that there is very little foam under the bench seats now from the boat company.


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## gmoney (Mar 11, 2011)

Polyurethane foam (closed cell foam) has a buoyancy of approximately 60 lbs per cubic foot. So divide the weight of your boat, motor and everything inside by 60 and that will give you a good approximation of how much foam you will need in order to keep your boat from sinking if you get swamped.


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## gmoney (Mar 11, 2011)

SkagBass said:


> My question here is in reference to breakers on a 24v system. Should i get one breaker rated at 24v and install it in position 'B' or should i go with two 12v Breakers installed for each battery at position 'A' ? I do want the main power to the TM ran through a 24v switch as well.


I would go with just one breaker or fuse, using 1 breaker instead of 2 is one less thing to break, making it less of a hassle while out on the water. I'm not 100% sure but I don't think you should need a switch for the trolling motor because the trolling motor has a switch built in via the speed control. 24V trolling motors draw a lot of current so you will need a switch rated for at least 60 amps or you will burn through switches. Another option if using a switch is to wire in a relay so that the current is handled by the relay and not by the switch.


SkagBass said:


> 1) looking at the switches, i can see that i need two different types of switches. I am not familiar as to what to call these when trying to source parts. The first switch for the lights (C) would need to have one switch that control two lights. Is that Double Pole Single Throw?
> 2) The second would be two switches, one for livewell and one for sonar. Would these be called Single Pole Single Throw?
> 3) I also have a MinKota duel bank charger to install for the 24v system. When charging the batteries in the 24v setup, do i need to disconnect the cable that ties the two batteries together (+ to -) before turning on the charger?


for the switches 1) is correct. 2) is also correct, but it is not necessary to have a dedicated switch for the sonar since it should has an on/off button right on the unit. 

I can't help you out with the charger situation, no experience there. You could post your wiring questions in the electrical section of the forum and I'm sure someone would gladly help you out, the guys know a tonne of stuff on this site


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## SkagBass (Mar 11, 2011)

Thanks for the input GMoney - I will take your advice and move this out to the Electronics area.


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## atuck593 (Mar 11, 2011)

Yeah...Thanks gmoney for the input with the foam flotation.


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## SkagBass (Mar 17, 2011)

Thanks with the help on the electrical questions. I removed the notion of a switch on the sonar and found out there is no need to interrupt the circuit of the batteries in the 24v system when charging. I understand that there is no real need to put the TM on a switch, but i am still going that route. With the previous incarnation of this project, i did find that switch useful. Electrical parts are ordered.

I stripped down the boat again. All of the wood is being sealed this week with Teak Oil and then Spar Varnish. While the boat was bare i took it down to a local shop and had the floor framing welded. I am happy with the outcome.






This weekend I hope to finish up the wood treatments and get the flooring cut. The light at the end of the tunnel is getting bigger. I hope to be out on the water in the next couple of weeks. It has been a long fish-less 2011. I am ready to get out and rip some lips.


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## gmoney (Mar 17, 2011)

Looks good, keep up the good work. In no time you'll be done. I plan on starting my boat mods in the end of april and be finished by May 20th. Will be great to get back on the open water.

We still have a couple of weeks left of ice fishing up here lol


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## SkagBass (Mar 25, 2011)

The project is coming along. I am still waiting for some electrical supplies to show up - come on Fed-Ex , just leave it at the door!

I got the flooring cut and fitted. The pedestal seat bracket is installed. I did some rattle can paint (for now) to make the boat picture pretty and I will be installing all of the wood parts this weekend. I should have a new set of pics on Monday =D> 

One more paycheck and one more weekend and it will be time to go fish. That was the whole point in doing this, I think. #-o


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## SkagBass (Mar 30, 2011)

New pictures from the past couple of weeks of work on the boat.


























Work completed after the photos include wiring of 24v & 12v systems and construction of a battery box holder.


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## gmoney (Mar 30, 2011)

WOW! Looks good SkagBass!
I like the look of all of the stained wood. The wood gunnels look sweet! 

Any more plans for your project?


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## The Quadfather (Mar 30, 2011)

Hey Brian, Man, this is a GREAT website!! Some much great info. thanks for the link!!
As I've said along the way,, you have a great project going there. Fine work. Now I can follow it from here. =D>


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## devilmutt (Mar 31, 2011)

Looks great! =D>


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## SkagBass (Apr 1, 2011)

gmoney said:


> WOW! Looks good SkagBass!
> I like the look of all of the stained wood. The wood gunnels look sweet!
> 
> Any more plans for your project?




Thanks guys! For this current build, i only have a few more plans to execute. Electronics panel, sonar and mount the bow mount trolling motor.
This summer I will steelflex the bottom of the boat and touch up the rattle can paint job on the rest. Next year I hope to put in marine grade ply for the floor and get it carpeted. I also need to do 'something' in the area where i removed the middle bench.


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## bm3dufner (Apr 3, 2011)

if you dont mind me asking what was the total $$$


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## SkagBass (Apr 4, 2011)

bm3dufner: I did not keep track of the cost of this project. I don't like the fall out from the wife when she see's the big picture.
Most of the gear i purchased over the last two years so here is the best my memory can do.

Boat, motor, and trailer - $1800. 
Trolling motor - $200. 
Fishfinder - $300. 
Jatoba (wood) $40 plus some computer work. 
Bolts and screws - $100
Paint - $50
Electrical Hardware - $125
Aluminum framing w/welding - $70
Seats - $150
3 months of work - $priceless$

I would estimate i am in around $3000 for the finished boat.


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## SkagBass (Apr 4, 2011)

Here are a few of the final pictures of the Spring build. I took it out on Saturday and caught a couple of smallies. It is noticeably heavier now, that 9.9 doesn't push it as fast as it used to. Some of my major concerns were answered. The pedestal seat holds sturdy. And the flooring is spacious and works well. The location of the livewell needs to be revisited, it is just a cooler so not much work involved in that. All of the electronics work well including the duel bank charger. I am so glad i wont have to haul batteries to and from the boat in between trips.









Made the switch plate out of a piece of oak. I dont like the way it looks with the jatoba. I will be reworking the area that the switch plate mounts to. I need better access under the bow.







And a final picture at the launch.


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## atuck593 (Apr 4, 2011)

That thing looks soo good that the fish might just want to jump right in it with yah...

I have a question about the bottom of your boat. Did you spray anything on there to protect the bare aluminum and keep it from oxidizing? Do you plan on just cleaning and polishing it up every so often? I would like to do a similiar paint job on my build but I don't feel like paying $60+ on a quart of Sharkhide or similar product. Any help would be great.


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## SkagBass (Apr 5, 2011)

The original owner had the whole boat painted silver. I did nothing to the bottom section yet. I plan on splurging and getting the steelflex to apply to the bottom this summer when it warms up.


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## HookedUp443 (Apr 6, 2011)

gmoney said:


> Polyurethane foam (closed cell foam) has a buoyancy of approximately 60 lbs per cubic foot. So divide the weight of your boat, motor and everything inside by 60 and that will give you a good approximation of how much foam you will need in order to keep your boat from sinking if you get swamped.



This is great info to have...thanks gmoney.
However my question for anyone that knows is:
If your boat has a good bilge pump installed with a reliable power source doesn't that completely eliminate any need for this "safety foam" ???


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## gmoney (Apr 6, 2011)

HookedUp443 said:


> This is great info to have...thanks gmoney.
> However my question for anyone that knows is:
> If your boat has a good bilge pump installed with a reliable power source doesn't that completely eliminate any need for this "safety foam" ???


A bilge pump has a set flow rate, if water is coming in faster than it is leaving your screwed!


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## HookedUp443 (Apr 6, 2011)

gmoney said:


> HookedUp443 said:
> 
> 
> > This is great info to have...thanks gmoney.
> ...



HahaHa #-o #-o #-o Good Point.


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## swcr (Apr 20, 2011)

That looks great SkagBass.

Where in Skagit Co. are you? I', in Woolley.


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## TxDispatcher (May 25, 2011)

Excellent job! I love the wood look...it makes the boat stand out from the rest

I'm beginning to seriously wish I had the time to redo my semi-v...you guys are all making me extremely jealous! haha


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## Ol' Suitcase Mouth (Jan 30, 2012)

What an absolutely great job. I especially like how you incorporated the wood on the top of the gunwales, as it gives the boat a very classic look. Although I have been a member for a little while, I just recently got my hands on a 14' MirroCraft Deep Fisherman which I am going to start on as soon as I tie up a few other projects around the house (that way I'll stay off the wife's fecal roster). 

My question for you is about the gunwales...is that the same Jatoba that you used for the seats and the forward decking, or is that ash. I know that ash lends itself well to bending (ie: snow shoes, windsor chairs...). Also did you have to steam bend it to get it to fit. The pictures you provided with the aluminum gunwales removed makes it look a little too delicate to bend a piece of hardwood stock against without damaging it. Did you bend it and clamp it against the rails before you removed the aluminum gunwales first?


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## SkagBass (Jan 30, 2012)

Thanks for your comments.

The previous owner had a similar setup with the wood for the gunwales, so I did not replace any aluminum. This was my first time working with jatoba and with a boat. The original wood pieces that were replace were 3/4" thick and simply bolted to each other with the aluminum of the boat in between. I have done some steam box bending before and knew I didn't want to deal with that. I ended up ripping the jatoba into 3/8" thick slats then laminating them back together when installing them on the boat. Funny thing about Jatoba, it doesn't like epoxy too much. I found out after the fact that there is a chemical i should have treated the wood with prior to using the epoxy on it. The wood contains too much oil and I am told this chemical application would have helped with bonding. But, i have plenty of bolts in there to keep it together.

So basically after ripping to 3/8" they were very flexible. I started on the inside and would clamp two pieces of the 3/8" jatoba together, add two pieces to the outside and bolt them together. Very crude construction but it seems to have worked, the boat is very stable no bending of the sides while in the water.

Good luck on your project.


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