# carpeting on decks



## samtech (Feb 17, 2015)

I have seen many boats carpeted in mods, and most are, it seems, are installed so that they can be removed. My question is this. I want to secure it to the frame permanently, but do not want to drill through carpet and screw down, and screws are exposed. Does someone know how to secure decks without doing it this way?


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## Johnny (Feb 17, 2015)

Drilling the"self tapping screws" through carpet (especially cheap carpet)
can be a very frustrating experience when the threads wrap around the screw
and pulls out the strings .... a nightmare if you have several do do.
I have tried to cut out a spot with the Xacto-knife to make it easier.
The previous owner screwed down the plywood, then the pedestal brackets,
then carpeted over everything . . . when I had to run new wires and plumbing,
It was difficult at most to rip up the glued down carpet to get at the job to do.
Also, found the 1988 sprayed in foam was water logged and turning to dust . . . 
So, even tho the exposed screws may be unattractive, you need to look into the
future and plan accordingly for access to your wires and plumbing.
What ticked me off the most was the P/O of my current bass boat had the inline fuse 
to the trolling motor under the front deck and was totally inaccessible without pulling up the carpet. 
That is what led me to removing the carpet for the front - then, to get to the livewell
plumbing in the back, was the same. Leaking hose under glued down screws. VERY FRUSTRATING.
Do your homework - make sure you can access your wires and plumbing BEFORE you glue
carpeting down over your screws.

Jus my dos centavos and :WELCOME: to Tin Boats


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## ericman (Feb 17, 2015)

I agree with Barefoot_Johnny. Stainless Phillips #12 panhead sheetmetal screws are not un-attractive. They really almost disappear, especially if you are using a rubber-backed, marine carpet. Even in Menards' Status brand carpets, the screws are minimally noticeable. And, yes, you may need to pull the plywood up in the future. And if you screw it down and then glue the carpet over the top, you'll never get the glue out of the Phillips slots to un-screw ALL those screws. You would have to grind off the heads, pry up all the plywood, and then turn out the screw shafts with a vice grips. So, ultimately, exposed screw heads is a small price. If you measure carefully and put screws at consistent intervals, the "pattern" it makes will not be ugly, in my opinion.

Now, in many fiberglass boats, you will see really shoddy craftsmanship, especially those from the mid 80's up until about 2000. The wood stringers are glassed to the hull, the plywood is stapled, let me say that again, STAPLED, to the stringers, and then one big sheet of carpet is glued to the floor. NOW that is a mess to fix when, NOT if, but WHEN the floor rots, because unless the boat is never used, even those stored inside will eventually get a rotten floor. OR it could be like the crappy way Lund Boats do their floors, the floors are riveted to the sub-structure so you are forced to grind off each and every one of those rivet heads.


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## samtech (Feb 17, 2015)

Will the #12 screw be a nightmare to get thru carpet? I think that would be my best way to go. Just as sure as I don't, I'll have to pull up deck. Question answered. Thanks


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## huntinfool (Feb 17, 2015)

Why not carpet your board and then use a screw and finish washer?


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## huntinfool (Feb 17, 2015)




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## samtech (Feb 17, 2015)

Good idea. Thanks


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## DarynCashmark (Feb 18, 2015)

Hunting fool is right about the washers. They are really great if you have to fasten carpeted aluminum to wood deck, etc.

One trick I have used in the past to keep carpet from unraveling is use an old soldering iron to "burn" a hole through before you drill. It will mend/ melt the hole surround and should help keep getting the dreaded "run in the stockings".


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## Johnny (Feb 18, 2015)

I spent a few years in home building and renovations.

I learned MANY things when it came to the *Electrical and Plumbing CODES*.
Never ever put spliced wires inside a wall cavity.
Never ever put water/gas pipes in a wall cavity that have couplings. PVC, copper, anything.
Never ever put junction boxes of any kind in a wall cavity.
that is the *LAW*.

So, with that in mind, it also applies to boats.
splices and couplings are your weak spots that can/will give you grief later on.
So if you are to put in a deck that you want to be permanent, try to put in a 2 or 3" PVC pipe
or some kind of flexible conduit that runs front to back that you can easily install or remove wires/hoses in the future.

Jus my dos centavos.

Good Luck and post some pics when you get started


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## samtech (Feb 18, 2015)

Thanks,I thought about running pvc, connected with couplings ,I want glue them, they hold together pretty good. Suppose to pick-up boat and trailer this weekend and I will have some "before " pics.


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## cgraham (Feb 18, 2015)

I used the stainless steel screw idea for my decking! Glued the carpet down, and stapled it to the backside of the decking/floor and buttoned everything up with the stainless steel screws. While adding some electronic items to the boat, I had to take the deck up 2-3 times to run my wires, and by using the pvc as a channel it made things a thousand times easier. One word of caution though, I did notice that after removing the screws several times, I would have to put the drill up and go to the old fashioned phillips head screwdriver, the holes acted like the were getting bored out, and the screws weren't wanting to get a good bite.. Other than that man everything works great. If you will look at the sides of my boat you can see the screws, after several trips the carpet covers the screws alittle bit and it isn't all that bad.


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## mgros483 (Feb 18, 2015)

Not sure what type of build you're doing, but if you check mine out, I designed my deck so I have access to everything after it's carpeted. I screwed my deck into the benches, then carpeted over the screws. 

I had the same thought process as you and didn't want exposed screws, so I just made it so I can get to everything.


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## ericman (Feb 18, 2015)

I wouldn't use washers, then the screw head might stick up more and be a tripping hazard or bothersome to bare feet. I've done dozens of boats and when pre-drilled, the amount of carpet fiber that winds up around the drill is so minimal, that it can still be hard to find the hole when you go to put the screw in. I can pre-drill almost an entire floor and not even clean the fibers off a drill.


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## samtech (Feb 18, 2015)

Thanks to everyone who has responded to my topic. I know this, if someone has a project to do, and can't find the answers they are looking for, they don't need to be attempting a conversion. I love this site. Thanks again and I'm sure you will be hearing from me again.


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## samtech (Feb 18, 2015)

Here is the boat I just purchased. Fisher marine. A 1648. Previous topics were for this conversion. I think it will be a pretty good base to start with, what do you folks think?


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## cgraham (Feb 18, 2015)

samtech said:


> Here is the boat I just purchased. Fisher marine. A 1648. Previous topics were for this conversion. I think it will be a pretty good base to start with, what do you folks think?


I call that a blank canvas my friend! That is something you can let you mitigation run wild with... Anything you want.. Talk about storage, and room.. You got it made on that one..


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## samtech (Feb 18, 2015)

That's what I wanted to hear. Will be my first conversion. I'll probably bug you fellows alot, of course, I don't know if you could consider this a conversion or complete build. Anyway, can't wait to get started. Thanks again


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## huntinfool (Feb 18, 2015)

What ever you want....just build it.


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## samtech (Feb 18, 2015)

Will post pics when I get started. It's about 23 degrees right now down south. (Ga.)


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## Y_J (Feb 18, 2015)

samtech said:


> Will post pics when I get started. It's about 23 degrees right now down south. (Ga.)


I can attest to that temp. mine says 22 with 13 mph winds and humidity at 64% making it feel like 9 in NW GA
I know it sure made me cut the work day short on working on my boat today.


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## samtech (Feb 18, 2015)

Hey y_j. I lived in villa Rica for a while. I'm in Carrollton about 1 or 2 days a week. My business brings me there. Live in austell now. Yes, it is not a good week to do a boat build. Nice to hear from you.


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## Y_J (Feb 18, 2015)

Right on. My buddy/neighbor was in Villa Rica until he moved across the road from me..
Maybe one of these days we can toss some bait together.


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## samtech (Feb 18, 2015)

That's a great idea. Need to stay in touch. I'm sure I will be easy to get in touch with, I will be on these forums for a while. Take care.


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## Blake. (Feb 19, 2015)

samtech said:


> Will post pics when I get started. It's about 23 degrees right now down south. (Ga.)


 X3 on this. It's been cold and windy today.


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## Johnny (Feb 24, 2015)

- - > to reiterate my above *Post: 18 Feb 2015, 09:41 *

I got this 1648 MV bass boat couple of months ago and had to tear up the
front carpet (that was glued OVER the screws) because the P/O put the 10 amp trolling motor
inline fuse UNDER the friggin plywood deck.... PLUS, the plumbing for the front live well leaked.
and now, today, the back live well hose broke (or fitting came loose) either way,
the back live well drain empties into the bilge. 
Also, the hose that pumps water into the well for aeration is leaking.
so, gotta tear up the back deck now just to get the plumbing right >ggrrrrrrrr ](*,) 
also, when he put in the aft plastic recessed rod holders, he just dug out the foam
and stuck them in. This allows all the rain water to sit in the tube and slowly let the
foam suck it up. (on both sides).
One positive thing is, he put S/S screws in EACH and EVERY hole in every piano hinge all over
the boat !!! LOL so when I put it back, I can do every other hole and have a whole passle of
screws left over for other things.

Of course, the screws under the carpet have friggin glue in every head !! oh well, ..................
There is nothing wrong with the existing carpet and the plywood is relative solid. But not now,
when I pulled up the glued down carpet, it also removed the sealer and sealing paint from the plywood.
so now, it is either replace or reseal the wood before putting down new carpet. Grrrrrrrr ](*,) #-o 

if you are new to putting in a deck - - - - *this is what NOT to do *!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## samtech (Feb 25, 2015)

Thanks for the update. Well, needless to say you are not a happy camper with all the work you have to do to repair problems under the deck. After reading the suggestions, I m not sure what method I will use, but one thing for sure, I want be gluing carpet down on top of decks! I will probably carpet decks and secure the decks with screws. Once again, thanks to everyone for there suggestions.


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## Y_J (Feb 25, 2015)

After reading thru this thread an idea come to me. Now mind you, I'm a certified nut job so.....
But anyway, I was thinking of, on my own, on the screws in the plywood why not cover each one with a piece of tape before gluing down the carpet. Then IF the case should arise to have to remove the carpet, and have to get below the deck(s), just remove the tape over the screws for clear access???
Seems to me, it would keep the glue out of the screw slots, just in case. Any thoughts on that, anyone???


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## Johnny (Feb 25, 2015)

ummmmm the point is . . . . . you must rip off - tear off - remove with force
the glued down carpet - before you even get to the screws. making it a very frustrating experience.


Y_J , that is a good idea. Tape the screw head.


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## samtech (Feb 26, 2015)

Thanks, Johnny - from downtown central Florida. Lol. My mind is made up. I will be screwing the decks down after carpet is glued down. Like I said before, I'm new to doing mods and that's why I joined tinboats. You hear from a lot of folks, and determine what's best for particular your particular build. I'm not over the hill yet,but I sure don't want to be ripping up decks. While we are on the subjects of decks, in your opinion, what would you use to frame decks? Thanks Samtech.


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## Johnny (Feb 26, 2015)

*Y_J has a good point* - if you are determined to carpet your deck
after it is screwed down firmly in place, simply put a piece of masking tape over each screw.

I have owned all sorts of boats since around 1969. Wood, Fiberglass and Aluminum. 
From an old 8 foot pram to a 30 foot Chris Craft cruiser.
At a very young age, I found my way through the Mariner's Walk of Pain by either learning
from my own uneducated blunders, or from fixing previous owners short cuts.
Being out on the water, sometimes far from your landing, is not the time to be fiddling around
doing repairs. 
Boating can be - and should be - FUN !!!

Framing ? that again is a much debated subject. Use the search button.
look at some of the awesome builds in the Conversions and Modifications pages.
Pros and Cons - just look at a few similar to yours and you decide what will work
best for YOU.

Happy Boating !!


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## rusty2112 (Feb 28, 2015)

My question is that if you need to use 2 pieces of plywood for the deck how do you attach them together to form 1 piece? My idea for my build is to make my floor deck free floating so I can easily remove the entire deck? Any questions or answers!?


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## Johnny (Feb 28, 2015)

Rusty, can you post a photo or drawing of exactly what part of the floor/deck 
is going to be two pieces ?

It may help with your feedback


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## rusty2112 (Feb 28, 2015)

What I mean is that it will take 2 pieces of plywood to do my floor. It's 52" wide by 63" long


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## Skiffing (Feb 28, 2015)

If you don't want to take the pieces apart again epoxy the seams together with biscuits.


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## rusty2112 (Feb 28, 2015)

It's 1/2" plywood, is that possible?


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## Skiffing (Feb 28, 2015)

You could spline that with a 1.5" wide strip of 0.10 aluminum and epoxy it together. It needs to be good quality plywood - 4 or 5 ply and no voids.


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## Johnny (Feb 28, 2015)

as an accomplished woodworker, biscuits into a big piece of 1/2" plywood 
may lead to frustrations when handled by one person and it all comes apart in your hands.
Put some thought into this .... if you have room, glue and screw a 1x2" along the two joining
edges and install a piano hinge so you can fold the two pieces up.
It would be very okay and function well to carpet over the hinged joint.
The joint does not have to be in the center - it can be at the 48" wide joint
or wherever it has room. If you give it adequate support from underneath,
once covered with the carpet, you will be the only one that knows your deck is in two pieces.
Or, if you want to keep it in one big piece, make a permanent brace from underneath.
If your joined seam will be across the boat (from port to starboard) there shouldn't be a
problem with your support ribs. If you go front to back (bow to stern) you may have to put some
gaps in in your 1x cleats to fit over the ribs. From a structural standpoint, you would be
the only one that can make the call on what will work best for your setup.

Jus my dos centavos


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## Y_J (Feb 28, 2015)

My floor deck is also in two pieces. Had to be to be able to get it under the two remaining bench seats. Slip one in, then the other and align the two.
What I was going to do was to put a short piece if aluminum on the top at the edges with flat-head SS screws. Basically to just hold the two pieces together. Along the edges and under the carpet, they are pretty much out of the way and out of view.
Is this a bad or good idea???


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## thill (Mar 1, 2015)

"C" is the way I usually do it. Nice illustrations!

Fabricate the two pieces of wood into one before putting in the boat. Remove the screws from one side, and put down the piece with the batten first. Then the other will drop right down on it, and the screws will go right back into the same holes. Done and strong

I usually use 3/4 plywood as the batten, as that doesn't tend to split as much as dimensional lumber.

One note, for what it's worth- If you use flat-head screws, they tend to pull down and vanish in carpet. Just be careful not to drive them too deeply.

Great boat to start with!

-TH


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## Johnny (Mar 4, 2015)

Finishing up the carpeting on my back casting deck today and had
to install a sheetmetal holding plate for the gas tank/battery hold and
it was to be under the carpet with "truss bolts" . . . and then I remembered
*Y_J*'s tip . . . . put a piece of masking tape over the heads prior to gluing down.

*COOL TIP !!!*


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## Y_J (Mar 4, 2015)

Barefoot_Johnny said:


> Finishing up the carpeting on my back casting deck today and had
> to install a sheetmetal holding plate for the gas tank/battery hold and
> it was to be under the carpet with "truss bolts" . . . and then I remembered
> *Y_J*'s tip . . . . put a piece of masking tape over the heads prior to gluing down.
> ...


Thank you Barefoot_Johnny.
I'm right there on mine now. Finished all the wood waterproofing today. Woooot.
Time to pre-run some wiring under the floor before moving much more forward.


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