# Rig Rebuild - FINISHED



## LarryA

Hi all: Started the rebuild of my rig and have put all the purchase issue aside. I'll make it right myself and screw the place I bough it from. Anyway, I started this before it got cold. Outside work is out of the question now for me, so I decided to take the trailer apart and attempt to get it in the basement. It's inside now and I can do the fabricating I need to and fit everything over the winter, then take it out in spring and paint/assemble it. That will save vauable fishing time in spring.
I purchased a new Dexter axle assemble to replace the old one, which was rusted out and plain junk. I need to space the fenders out from the frame now becuae Dexter said that my originals dimensions did meet the minimum needed for clearance. Not a big deal. As you can see the picture I made some wood spacers to cheack what I'd need and now have to decide what to make the perminent ones from. I was thinking about using square steel tubing. I need to make new bunks, install nre rollers, and fabricate new side guides. I plan on putting a set of LED lights on also. I think I'm goin to mount them at the base of the guides on each side. That will put them the the actual rear of the trailer and they will be unobstructed. Not sure yet what route I want to take for painting. I'm bouncing back and forth between inexspensive flat black spray cans and farm inpliment applied with a spray gun/compressor.
This is my start:


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## Captain Ahab

Where are you located - if you say someplace in the South - - errrrr! TOO COLD???

Looks good so far


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## ben2go

Lookin good.I really hate to hear you got the shaft by the place that sold you the boat.


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## LarryA

Captain Ahab said:


> Where are you located - if you say someplace in the South - - errrrr! TOO COLD???
> 
> Looks good so far



I live in souheast PA. Way too cold way to fast here. Today isn't bad but that's only because the warm southern air brought with it a bunch of rain. Supposed to go back to cold again. I was born in the wrong climate!


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## LarryA

ben2go said:


> Lookin good.I really hate to hear you got the shaft by the place that sold you the boat.



Can't say that it's not a big deal because it was. I'm not getting back into that. It is a hopeless cause and now I'm in "fix it up" mode.


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## ben2go

LarryA said:


> ben2go said:
> 
> 
> 
> Lookin good.I really hate to hear you got the shaft by the place that sold you the boat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't say that it's not a big deal because it was. I'm not getting back into that. It is a hopeless cause and now I'm in "fix it up" mode.
Click to expand...



Good thinking.Charge ahead and don't look back. =D>


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## bAcKpAiN

What parts of SE Pa? I am in Philly.


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## jkbirocz

If you leave the wood spacers, be sure to seal them heavily or paint/poly them, end grains 2-3X more than than other sides. Where do you fish locally? There are a bunch of southeastern PA members, including myself. Us boatless are always looking for local boaters to take us from shore, we are always willing to chip in for gas/boating costs


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## bAcKpAiN

We need to have a SE PA get together somewhere. Maybe Marsh Creek or somewhere like that where we could get the boaters and non boaters together for some fishing fun. I have a boat, but at present I am limited to electric only.


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## LarryA

jkbirocz said:


> If you leave the wood spacers, be sure to seal them heavily or paint/poly them, end grains 2-3X more than than other sides. Where do you fish locally? There are a bunch of southeastern PA members, including myself. Us boatless are always looking for local boaters to take us from shore, we are always willing to chip in for gas/boating costs



As for the wood blocks, the are gone and spacers were made from steel blocks. I want something that will not fail should someone decide the fenders are steps to climb into the boat while it's on the trailer. The wood surely would not take that amount of strain. I have the undersides of the fenders supported also with L shaped steel pieces. The next step is to come up with a method of fabricating side guide-ons that will be fairly solid. The ones that were on the trailer worked but were really flimsy.
The trailer is slowly coming along but the funds just went bye-bye due to personal reasons. I suppose I'll start taking the old paint off what I haven't already until I can actually buy some of what I need to get started back up again.

As for where I fish:
I'm from Berk's County, PA and fish the Sck. River, Kerchner Creek Dam in Hamburg (not sure of spelling), and i started fishing Blue Marsh. Blue Marsh has changed immensely since I fished it many years ago. Spots I fished are no longer even there, in that the structure has filled in or the spot just can't be found. The lake has aged and nothing even looks the same. I had some results but nothing to really speak about. A few small largemouth, one small channel, a small stripper, and a carp.
I had the best results with chicken liver bottom fishing and nightcrawlers for casting toward shore. I'd like to hook into a nice stripper and/or a large channel but so far they have eluded me. I also haven't caught and walleye, I used to catch quite a few of those.


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## LarryA

Did some more work on thr ytailer today. Got the fenders cleaned up and primed them and the rest of the rear frame section. So far, things are looking and going well. Ill wait for anymore pictures until I have something to show that is in mock up assembly. Winter sucks, I'm already ready for spring and summer to get back!


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## CRAPPIEDENTIST

larry,, take it fer what ya want,, however I have never hadda rattle can paint job stay on any of my boat trailers...
fire that ol compressor up and do it rite and ya wont hafta do it fer a long time ever again...

JAKE


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## LarryA

CRAPPIEDENTIST said:


> larry,, take it fer what ya want,, however I have never hadda rattle can paint job stay on any of my boat trailers...
> fire that ol compressor up and do it rite and ya wont hafta do it fer a long time ever again...
> 
> JAKE



Yeah, I know what you mean. I was doing some web checking and I'm leaning toward painting the trailer with farm implement paint. At about $30-$40 a gallon, it isn't expensive (as paint goes) and should last. I might go with an International Red for color. I was thinking white but I'm afraid that would get pretty scuzzy looking real quick. There's a Tractor Supply store about 15 minutes away. I'll have to go check out what they have.


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## CRAPPIEDENTIST

My favorite paint ta spray is the ANCHOR Paint 500 series, oil base, comes in a lotta colors sprays lik a dream,, I put hardener in it and it comes out with a real nice shine...

JAKE


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## LarryA

Making some progress onth trailer. I have some time but funds are drained so getting done what I can without too much expense. I know the picture doesn't show much. I'm really cramped for space but it beats the outside weather. Once everything gets done it all comes apart again to await reassembly and paint outside.
Here's what's done so far:


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## CrappieReaper

Larry, that is going to be one nice looking trailer when it's all said and done. I don't have a basement, no overhead doors on a 40' x 75' shop, and the garage is packed with my old '98 Chevy. I've thought about getting a drywall dolly and bringing my boat into my living room. I ran my wife (ex) off almost three years ago and nothing is stopping me from doing just that. But I have a feeling, I'd have to replace the carpet in the living room if I did.


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## LarryA

I made some real good progress over the holidays. I did some painting on brackets and even the mounting hardware (I'd like it to resist rust at least awhile). I decided to try Rust-Oleum paint for the trailer. The hardware store has some overstock at a good price. I'll thin it as the can states using 5% Mineral Spirits and spray with my compressor and gun. I had decided on a red shade and ordered some Burgundy bunk padding and, by luck, the sale paint was Burgundy also. I figure first I'll try painting a few small pieces before I put any on the frame. That way if I don't like something I have less to strip down again.
The bunks were made from regular 2x4s with 2 coats of waterproofing and a light coat of flat black to cover the white wood. My mounting to the old brackets is being done by adding some aluminum angle wedges between the bunks and brackets. Holes were drilled at the same angle and carriage bolts were placed below the bunk surface then filled over with body putty.
Hopefully, I'll end up with a Burgundy trailer and bunks with black hardware / rollers.

I'd like to fabricate some side guides. My idea is to replace the above pictured fender spacing blocks with a piece of 1-1/2" square tubing then coming up at the proper angle and height. After that attach two small bunks to center the boat on the trailer. I figure I'll need about 8 feet of tubing and I'll have the same bunk padding to do the sides. This will allow me to have my require fender spacing and the side guides without attaching anything more to the frame.


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## Waterwings

That's looking really good, Larry! 8) 




> I'd like to fabricate some side guides. My idea is to replace the above pictured fender spacing blocks with a piece of 1-1/2" square tubing then coming up at the proper angle and height. After that attach two small bunks to center the boat on the trailer.



Checkout Codeman's guides he made! (7th post down in the link below)

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=5810&start=30


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## LarryA

Waterwings said:


> That's looking really good, Larry! 8)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd like to fabricate some side guides. My idea is to replace the above pictured fender spacing blocks with a piece of 1-1/2" square tubing then coming up at the proper angle and height. After that attach two small bunks to center the boat on the trailer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Checkout Codeman's guides he made! (7th post down in the link below)
> 
> https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=5810&start=30
Click to expand...


yeah that's kind of what I have in mind but not nearly that long. I'm thinking the two uprights can go where I have to space out the fenders.


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## Waterwings

> yeah that's kind of what I have in mind but not nearly that long. I'm thinking the two uprights can go where I have to space out the fenders.




That's an idea also. Depending on where you place the guide uprights (distance between them front to back), would the angle of the guide posts hit/touch the fenders ? Just thinking out loud.


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## LarryA

Waterwings said:


> yeah that's kind of what I have in mind but not nearly that long. I'm thinking the two uprights can go where I have to space out the fenders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's an idea also. Depending on where you place the guide uprights (distance between them front to back), would the angle of the guide posts hit/touch the fenders ? Just thinking out loud.
Click to expand...


First, I'd like to thank those who replied for any help and/or ideas.
The guides are something I'll have to wait on. I was thinking the same thing when trailer mocked up. I've torn it down and have just about everything primed and ready for paint. Some things are a little rough due to aging of the steel parts but they look to be fine structurally. I decide to completely strip down the trailer and replace all bolts with new ones (minus the spring shackle bolts (not going to mess with them). Got one of my bunk padding (carpet) today but the one I need for the bottom bunks is on Backorder (figures). The bottom bunks are not going to be covered on the underside, I figure that will help keep water from getting trapped in the bunks.
I decide to paint the trailer with Rust-Oleum Burgundy Enamel and all the attached hardware will be gloss black. The bunks will be Burgundy and the axle/springs flat black.
I want to make a run to Harbor Freight and check out the LED light kit they list for $39.99 https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95974 . That's a great price for an LED kit.
After I get the trailer back together I'll decide if I want to fabricate side guides or just buy some. It will depend on mounting room and the costs of each way of going.


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## CrappieReaper

I bought a Marine LED trailer light set at Atwoods a couple of years ago for a mere $36. I don't know if they still carry them.


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## Waterwings

Have you checked-out the LED's available through site sponsor Blue Water LED? :wink: 


https://www.bluewaterled.com/catalog.php


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## LarryA

Painted some of my trailer parts today. The spraying was the easy part, the cleanup of the gun sucked! I'm actually considering just painting the rest with a roller. I'm just a bit leery because I've never used a roller with enamel and not sure what to expect for results.

Update: Painted the balance of parts today using a roller. The results were not that bad. The fenders look a bit on the debatable side but I'll wait and see when they dry. Maybe wet sand a little before the second coat. Considering what I started with, the parts look 100% better. Once I get a second coat on them they will have a couple months to cure before I can take everything outside and reassemble the trailer.


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## LarryA

Have just about everything for the trailer ready. Now need to wait for this winter mess to melt and dry up, then temperatures to rise so I can get it outside to reassemble. Seems like I have a jigsaw puzzle to put back together.












Thanks for looking.


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## Waterwings

:shock: Whew, that does look like a jigsaw puzzle! That's a lot of parts!


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## Hanr3

Looks great so far. 

Can't wait to see it put together.


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## ben2go

Good work.That's a simple trailer.Shouldn't take long to reassemble.


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## LarryA

Hello All: I had a thread started for an electrical topic but am now putting everything for this boat in this thread.
I've been pretty busy today. Got my deck (behind rear seat) framing cut and fit, and finished my electrical panel except for what I'll need to connect when put into the boat.
Here are a few update pictures:


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## ben2go

Looks like a pro install.Gud werk.


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## Waterwings

Nice work! 8)


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## LarryA

ben2go said:


> Looks like a pro install.Gud werk.



Guess I have a bit of an upper hand in this area, I was an auto mechanic for a long time and had schooling on automtive eletrical. I've forgotten some of the technical stuff but basic wiring isn't that big of a deal.


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## ben2go

LarryA said:


> ben2go said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like a pro install.Gud werk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guess I have a bit of an upper hand in this area, I was an auto mechanic for a long time and had schooling on automtive eletrical. I've forgotten some of the technical stuff but basic wiring isn't that big of a deal.
Click to expand...



I know the feeling.I was an auto mechanic for 15 years and did auto and boat upholstery on the side.It's like riding a bicycle.Once you learn how,it only takes falling off once to remember how. :LOL2:


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## rome8899

Het guy's. Im a newb here, not to boating or fishing but new here. I was web surfing this morning for ideas on jon boat refurbishing, and wound up here. The Boating Gods must have been with me because I think I really found the right spot. I just purchased a 15 ft. Fisher Marine w/ 9.9 Tohatsu. I has already had several mods. but most are old school and heavy. I intend on gutting back to factory hull and starting over. I would just like to say THANKS in advance, because I'm sure I will be needing your'e advice, and suggestions. Thankyou again, Scott


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## redbug

welcome to the site Scott you have found the place


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## ben2go

rome8899 said:


> Het guy's. Im a newb here, not to boating or fishing but new here. I was web surfing this morning for ideas on jon boat refurbishing, and wound up here. The Boating Gods must have been with me because I think I really found the right spot. I just purchased a 15 ft. Fisher Marine w/ 9.9 Tohatsu. I has already had several mods. but most are old school and heavy. I intend on gutting back to factory hull and starting over. I would just like to say THANKS in advance, because I'm sure I will be needing your'e advice, and suggestions. Thankyou again, Scott




:WELCOME: 

I am from the same general area,upstate.


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## jj97blazer

Is it me or is there a reason I can't see any pictures on this thread?


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## LarryA

I don't know, the pics show up fine for me.


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## ben2go

No problems here.


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## MikeA57

Fantastic job Larry. I especially like the electrical panel. Where did you find that fuse panel? I'll be looking for one of those when I get finished with my trailer and get going on my boat.

Mike


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## LarryA

MikeA57 said:


> Fantastic job Larry. I especially like the electrical panel. Where did you find that fuse panel? I'll be looking for one of those when I get finished with my trailer and get going on my boat.
> 
> Mike



I got it when I orderd the cables. Came from https://shop.genuinedealz.com/
They have Free Shipping and a good selection of fuse blocks and electrical components.
Delivery was pretty quick too, only took about three days for me to get the stuff I ordered.


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## LarryA

Saturday didn't pan out, too cold outside. Today turned out to be a decent day and a lot got done. The trailer is now ready to get the boat back on it so I can make bunk adjustments. I didn't put the winch setup on yet, don't want to scratch up the paint by having to move it any more than need be once its on. I checked the tracking by measuring from the coupler to center of each hub and looks like it's all but perfect. Should track great behind the truck (I hope).

Progress:


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## Waterwings

That's a nice job! 8)


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## Hanr3

Trailer turned out fantastic. Well worth the wait. 

Nice job!!!!


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## LarryA

Thanks guys. There is still a lot of work left to do a time is getting shorter. The weather just isn't cooperating at all with me.
trailer still needs to be wired, the winch, jack, and fenders installed, and adjustments made for bunks and rollers. I barely got started with the boat.


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## Hanr3

I hear ya about the weather. 50+ all for the past couple of weeks and last night we get 5" of snow. going to be in the high 40's today and back up to the 50's tomorrow.


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## LarryA

Finally a nice day! Finished the trailer today and the boat is back on it. Started attaching the first of my framework inside, behind the seat so I can make the floor piece. I want to make all the framing and flooring pieces and fit, then remove before I paint the interior so I don't scratch everything up. I also need to remove the REG numbers and put new ones where they should be (up higher).
I don't have any side guides on the trailer but not really sure I need them. Maybe later.
Here's the boat on the trailer:


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## LarryA

How are you securing the decking to it's framework? I'd like to have mine (just a floor in my 14' V) so I can remove it if I need to. I'm thinking of using stainless flat head screws with the contoured washers that fit the screw size. The only thing I'm wondering about is about the center areas of the floor. The sides would be fine but I'm afraid the center areas will not be solid enough to the framing. A couple screws there would work but not look too great in the center of carpeting. I'm using 1-1/2" square lumber for framing.


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## CBGale2

Heres what Im planning for my floor, but may not work for yours if your going to remove it, but maybe..... cut a small X in the carpet and put a black wood screw into the framing, then just spray a little glue on a Q-tip or something, put a little glue on the head of the screw and stick the carpet back down.


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## poolie

I used T-Nuts in the decking and bolted it from the bottom side. This of course will only work if you hatches or some other way to get to the underside. If you go this approach, go ahead and drill the hole for the T-Nut and the frame at the same time. That way once the carpet is down you can easily locate where the bolts go.


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## LarryA

I will not be able to get to the underside, so that is pretty much out the window. I never gave it much thought until now. I kept seeing all these mods but I don't remember ever seeing how these people secured the already carpeted decks they built. In thinking, it's looking like I may have to put a few screws someplace in the opened area of carpeting, if I want to ever remove the panels without ripping things apart. Hopefully, someone will have some ideas. My boat is not wide but I don't think that the whole center would stay against the framing without some fasteners.


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## ben2go

Stainless steel self tapping screws.


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## Jump This

I maybe able to help with this one (I'm a flooring contractor.)

If you don't want to see the screws, cut small circles out of the flooring material using a nickle or quarter as a guide. Once you have secured the floor to (what the heck are you securing it to anyway?) your frame, either reuse your cutout or make new ones. You can use contact cement or Scott 77 spray adhesive to glue them in (although the latter is a bit messy for small patches.)


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## Jump This

What is a T-nut ?


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## Hanr3

There are numerous ways to secure the floor to the frame. 

Option 1
Counter sink your wood screws, and paint over the whole top of the floor. Th epaint will seal the holes, and wood.

Option 2
Screw from the bottom side and use t-nuts. T-nuts are like a bolt that recesses below teh surface, it has point to hold into the wood. They work great, however they aren't cheap. Google them.

Option 3
Drill a small depth hole, install screw so the head is below the surface and use wood putty or dowel rod to fill in the hole above the screw. Dowel rod works in 3/4", if your going with anything thinner go for teh wood putty. 

Me, I went with option #1. Glued and screwed the 1/2" deck from the top and put down two coats of enamel paint. 











then again my whole deck was removeable until I added the flotation back into the boat. The front of the deck is secured by my front deck, and the back by my rear floatation box. Link to my build in my signature.


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## sccamper

I ran mine thru the green carpet and used a sharpie marker to knock the shine off. You can see it but it not a show boat, I can also take it all down in 30 minutes.


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## LarryA

sccamper said:


> I ran mine thru the green carpet and used a sharpie marker to knock the shine off. You can see it but it not a show boat, I can also take it all down in 30 minutes.



That's what I'm thinking. My boat is far from pretty and the floor/carpet is being put in to replace pressure treated lumber the previous owner had in. I'll probably end up putting a few screws/washers in the center and not worry about seeing them.
The more I think about it, there isn't really anything else I can do and still be able to access the screws should I need to get to a leak (I've already had a bunch of them).


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## LarryA

Had a vacation day today and got pretty much of the front decking done. Still a few pieces to screw together. There will be a deck at the front that goes back over the seat and down the backside. Hatches will be up front on top for battery access / some storage and behind the seat for storage. hopefully, i can get this stuff done and ready to carpet before Saturday and the nice weather leaves again. Thanks for looking.


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## Zum

Nice angles and cuts,looks good.


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## LarryA

Zum said:


> Nice angles and cuts,looks good.



Thank You. The compound angles were a real pain (opps, challenge) :shock: 
It's not perfect but everything gets covered up with the framing anyway.


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## clarker2000

Carpet the deck after you attach it to the deck. It works great. Check 14 ft flat bottom sea nymph mod. We just finished her up and it looks great. The carpet was very easy. We had a stainless steel 3 ft ruler that we used to get in real tight to all the edges. Push the ruler up as close as you can and have a buddy make the cut. Take your time dont rush and it will trun out fine. Hit me back for questions. I do reccomend checking out my post. Might also be under the name of BASSHOLE. Good luck, looks great so far.


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## LarryA

OK, found today that my plan for a storage hatch behind the original front seat is an issue I need to decide on. Turns out that about all I have room for is a hatch about 18"W X 3-1/2" H. I'm debating this as a place to stash rope and maybe my extra flotation vest. Otherwise, there is a whole lot of dead space under there. Opinions?

Gave it thought and an access this small is pretty much useless, I'd have a hard time even gtting my hand in the opening.


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## LarryA

This evening, I decide to check and found that I need to replace the wood in my transom. This is in-between two aluminum walls and measures 1-5/16" thick. I'll probably go tomorrow or Sunday to see what I can get that is 19/32" thick and glue two pieces together. I checked the Lowe's web site and the only thing it shows stocked is OSB plywood in that thickness. I'm wondering if this is alright to use? I did some reading and it is a waterproof type plywood (to some extent). I was thinking two piecs of this glued then the edges sealed with some bondo and waterproofing over everything.
I'll get just exterior plywood if I can find it in the right thickness but judging from what I've cut already, that will also need cut end filling at spots too.
So, based on this info, what route do you thing would be best?


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## LarryA

Finished cutting the floor this morning. Now ready to complete frame cross brace assembly, waterproof, carpet. I'll be taking everything back out of the boat and cleaning it good and get it ready for interior paint while I complete all the flooring for installation. Progress is moving along at a good pace now. All the fabrication is finished, with the exception of the transom insert wood and that I can get done as I have time.

I'm looking at completion of the project within the next couple weeks.

Thanks for looking,

Larry


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## Zum

Looks good.


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## LarryA

Got the marine plywood for the transom that needs replacing. Boy, that stuff is a salty price! Oh well. I guess what some guy I know said could be looked at to be true. He says "A boat is a hole in the water that you stick money into.".


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## LarryA

Got paint on the inside of the boat today. I wasn't expecting this light of a blue but it's ok. Up close it doesn't look as good as the pictures but considering what it was like, it turned out alright. The outside looks like crap anyway. At least the inside is now one color and no longer full of unused screw holes. Should look better when the flooring is in.


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## russ010

that looks awesome - you'll be amazed of the difference of the look once you get the flooring in... it really brings out the best in the boat. Great Job! :beer:


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## Loggerhead Mike

looks great


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## ober51

Great job - I like the color.


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## rcgreat

Looking good, I also like the color. =D>


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## LarryA

It appears it was a good idea to take some vacation days and work on the boat. As in my last post, i got the interior painted. Today I got the framing in, wired for the battery and breaker at the battery, installed the framing, installed the front decking and flooring. The fit could have been better but it suits me fine. Much better than what I started with.
I do have one question: Would 3M 77 Spray adhesive hold some carpet to the tops of the center and rear seats? I'm thinking of doing that because I think the painted seats will just get all scratched up.

Today's progress:


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## ober51

Looks SHARP =D> . If you could, can you take a picture of the wiring and the breaker and anything else. As someone who can barely tell the difference from +/- I would really appreciate it.

As for the question. I think you can just use another piece of wood, wrap in carpet, and attach to the seat. I don't think I would put the carpet directly on the seat. By using the wood you could also attach seat mounts without going into the seat. Though you'd be going into the seat with the wood anyway (but I think the wood would look sharper). Hope that helps a bit. Please post those electrical pics!


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## LarryA

ober51 said:


> Looks SHARP =D> . If you could, can you take a picture of the wiring and the breaker and anything else. As someone who can barely tell the difference from +/- I would really appreciate it. <snip>
> Please post those electrical pics!



Can Do.
Picture of battery compartment with breaker and cables in place. This will be may main breaker for the feed. Another breaker at the rear will be for the trolling motor.





In this picture, the Blue And Black wires are for the bow running light; the the large Red and Black are my battery feeds to the stern. All the wires/cable were secured with plastic wire clips screwed to the framing.





This picture shows feeds sen in above picture and also the power & transducer wires for the sonar:


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## ober51

First looks awesome, you really did a great job, neat and all flush. Second, if you dont mind, a couple questions:

1. What is the circular cutout in the first picture, near the bottom?
2. What size screws did you use in the strong ties? And what size strong ties?
3. How is the wood framing attached to the bottom of the boat? I didn't see the strong ties that others used, so I am curious.
4. What gauge wire did you use?
4. Where did you buy the breakers? And is it simply running them in between the battery and the device I wish to power? How many batteries do you have to run all your electronics?

Ok so it was more than a few questions. But I haven't been getting many answers in my thread, and you have been doing great work. Thanks again!


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## LarryA

ober51 said:


> First looks awesome, you really did a great job, neat and all flush. Second, if you don't mind, a couple questions:
> 
> 1. What is the circular cutout in the first picture, near the bottom?
> 2. What size screws did you use in the strong ties? And what size strong ties?
> 3. How is the wood framing attached to the bottom of the boat? I didn't see the strong ties that others used, so I am curious.
> 4. What gauge wire did you use?
> 4. Where did you buy the breakers? And is it simply running them in between the battery and the device I wish to power? How many batteries do you have to run all your electronics?
> 
> Ok so it was more than a few questions. But I haven't been getting many answers in my thread, and you have been doing great work. Thanks again!



Thanks. Answers to your questions:
1. The cutout is a custom fit insert for my Optima battery. It has cylindrical cells and this will hold the battery in place so it cannot shift around.
2. If you mean the aluminum brackets, I made them from 1"x1" aluminum angle. I used #10 X 1" SS Screws. The wood framing is 1-1/2" square and fastened together with #10 SS square drive screws in 2-1/2" & 3" lengths.
3. It's actually not. The front (behind the original front seat is held down by a 1-1/2" square piece of the framing wood and the floor attachés to that. The rear is held with the framing screwed to the face or the seat. I need to add two brackets at the middle seat so that area cannot lift. I don't see it going anywhere.
4. The battery feed cables are 4AWG Marine (made up by and ordered from Genuinedealz.com). The short battery cable is only 6 gauge (because that's the biggest I could find locally and it's a battery cable for a vehicle). The wiring for the lights and sonar is 16 gauge. All connections are soldered and shrink tubbed (no splice connectors).
5. I got the breaker in the battery compartment from https://wiringproducts.com and it is an 80 AMP. My Breaker for the trolling motor at the stern is a 60 AMP.
And YES, the breaker goes between the battery and the device it is protecting. In my case the one at the battery compartment is there to protect everything to the rear of the boat. I made a switch panel for the stern that will feed the trolling motor, fuse block, switch panel, and a 12 volt outlet.

As for batteries. I'm only running one battery, an Optima 31M Blue Top. So far I've had no problem with power but then I don't use the trolling motor all that much. Generally, when I move it's enough to use the outboard.


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## daltonmcgill

looks great =D>


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## russ010

Boat looks great man!

You can use that adhesvie spray to put your carpet on with... but, like ober said - if you plan on putting seat pedestals, i would recommend using 1/2 - 3/4 wood screwd to the tops of the seats. I will look a lot cleaner and give you some meat to screw your seat mounts into.


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## michiganman18

My suggestion for not wanting to scratch the seats would be to make a plywood box and carpet that, which would just fit over and sit on the seat. similar to what you did in the bow. If you dont understand what i mean go ahead and ask. Think the seat is a stick of butter and the plywood casing to cover it would be the butter dish cover.

Weird, I know, but maybe you can see it better.


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## LarryA

michiganman18 said:


> My suggestion for not wanting to scratch the seats would be to make a plywood box and carpet that, which would just fit over and sit on the seat. similar to what you did in the bow. If you dont understand what i mean go ahead and ask. Think the seat is a stick of butter and the plywood casing to cover it would be the butter dish cover.
> 
> Weird, I know, but maybe you can see it better.



My seats clamp down the front and back of the seat and lock with brackets screwed fast to the seat front and rear. The wood top carpeted is probably the best way to go. I was thinking that just carpeting the tops would keep the weight down a bit. On the other hand, I also thought that the plywood top would be a better mounting method for my seats than the clamp type brackets that were used before. Hate to have to buy another whole sheet of plywood for just those two pieces. What's left from my transom build is wide enough for two pieces but not long enough. That sucks. Have to give this some thought.

The upside to a bad day at work was that I got home and checked the fit of the new transom and it fits great. Now i can get going to finish that up so i can finish the rest of the interior and wiring.


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## dyeguy1212

What kind of screw is holding down the deck and/or carpet? A Phillips head with something around it... care to explain?


Thanks and looks good


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## grizzly

dyeguy1212 said:


> What kind of screw is holding down the deck and/or carpet? A Phillips head with something around it... care to explain?
> 
> 
> Thanks and looks good


not my boat but it looks like what i used on mine, called a finishing washer, got mine at home depot


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## LarryA

Yup, that's whst they sre cslled, "Finishing Washers". It's a raised washer with the center being made for a flat or semi round head screw. I got mine at a local hardware store. You need to get the size matched to the screw size you are using.


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## LarryA

Finished up the carpeted tops for the bench seats and mounted my swivel seats on them. Also finished up and installed the new transom wood insert. All is going well. I have to decide on what I want to do about rear rod holders (to find somethat will work for me or not to?). What I wanted to use will not work, they will be in my way. Not a big deal at this point.
Progress:


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## Cheeseball

Very nice, no nonsense boat. I like!


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## ober51

Really nice, man.

How long did it take you to wire everything - if you had to guess?


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## LarryA

Finished the boat today =D> Only want to put in some sort of drink holders so stuff doesn't get spilled all over the carpet.
Everything checks out good and the outboard started right back up with about 5 or six pulls. That made me happy, considering that each cylinder had a fair amount of oil added before winter. I adapted two Driftmaster rod holders to mount in the oar locks. That worked out well.


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## LarryA

More Pics:


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## Loggerhead Mike

looks great. we got the same trailer. if you dont mind me askin how much was that axle? im going to have to replace mine this winter as both hubs were machined off center

tite lines!


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## LarryA

Loggerhead Mike said:


> looks great. we got the same trailer. if you dont mind me askin how much was that axle? im going to have to replace mine this winter as both hubs were machined off center
> 
> tite lines!



Sent PM


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## Zum

Those ol 9.9's have to be one of the best selling outboards around.
You always see them around,I still have one.
Glad she started right up for you,your boat looks good.


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## LarryA

Put a finishing touch on my trailer today. Added a "TinBoats.net" skicker to the tounge.


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## Large_Mouth_BA$$

This is exactly how I would like my boat to look! You did an awesome job on this and thank you for all the pics!


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## grizzly

very nice boat!


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## King Rat

looks great! Wish i could do the same with my skinny... keep up the good work and keep the pictures coming.... really like your tin


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## Rat

Great job LarryA! The only problem I see with that boat is you aren't going to get as much fishing time as you like: it will be hard getting away from the dock for all the people wanting to talk to you about your boat! :mrgreen:


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## FishingBuds

That turned awsome, killer job-would ya do another one??


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## Jdholmes

Perhaps one of the mods could remove this thread from the completed mods list, as it appears none of the pictures work anymore.


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## acabtp

Jdholmes said:


> Perhaps one of the mods could remove this thread from the completed mods list, as it appears none of the pictures work anymore.


2nd


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## Jim

Jdholmes said:


> Perhaps one of the mods could remove this thread from the completed mods list, as it appears none of the pictures work anymore.



Done! Thanks!


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