# What wood for Gunwale wood trim?



## Texas Prowler (Jun 4, 2016)

I am in the process if replacing the wood and I would like to find something pretty flexible. Any help is appreciated.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Jun 4, 2016)

White oak is good but you may have to steam it to bend it.


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## Johnny (Jun 4, 2016)

Prowler - Check out the build by PioMarine: 




https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36961
He asked a lot of questions and received a lot of good feedback
and has an awesome ride to be proud of.

Personally, I agree with the white oak if you can find it.
avoid cedar and red furniture grade oak.
Visit some of the many *Wood Boat* forums on the ole InnerWeb.
There is some awesome information to be had with a little research.

I for one would like to see some photos once you get going with it.


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## Texas Prowler (Jun 4, 2016)

Thanks guys! I will try to find some white oak local. I'll post pics once this gets rolling.

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## Johnny (Jun 5, 2016)

If you have a table saw, you shouldn't have any problems.
One suggestion would be to cut a saw kerf into one of the
strips just a tad deeper than your metal is thick so when
you join the two halves together, the metal skin will not
be visible on the top of the gunwale when you are all said
and done. There are several tricks to hold one piece into
place so it won't move while attaching the mating piece.
After assembly, you will have a very professional looking
wood gunwale. 


Warning: do NOT - " *NOT* " - use silicone or any products
that contain silicone to marry the two together.
IMO, silicone actually promotes corrosion. I have seen the warnings
on the tubes of construction adhesives that clearly states:
do not use on aluminum.

Read, Understand and Follow the instructions for any products you may use.







.


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## Texas Prowler (Jun 5, 2016)

Thanks! How wide should the strips be?

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## Johnny (Jun 5, 2016)

*Tex, This is the time to start posting photos of what you are working with.*

In my world, I would look for "nominal" cut lumber.
like 1x2 or 1x2-1/2 in the longest lengths you can find
then scarf the ends for your lap joints .....
Unless you can find good grade of wide lumber and rip it down yourself.
some woodworking knowledge, skill and power tools comes into play,
so if you are unsure of anything, visit the Wood Boat forums on the ole InnerWeb
where you will find some of the finest marine craftsmen in the world.
In the Southern Wet States, I think cypress would be a good second choice to the oak.

. . . what did you take off ??


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## Texas Prowler (Jun 5, 2016)

1x2 that was rotted. That was covered by a stainless strip

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## Johnny (Jun 6, 2016)

Tex, what was the stainless strip used for ??
was it to cover the seam where the two wood
strips met and the metal was exposed b/c whoever
did it before didn't make a groove for the metal skin
to fit in ?? Or, on the outside like a Rub Rail.
If done correctly, a metal strip is not really needed but, 
could be used to protect the top of the wood gunwale 
or just for cosmetics - your call.







.


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## Texas Prowler (Jun 6, 2016)

The stainless strip covered the gunwale wood from the side all the way around except the transom. I may leave it off if i can get the oak to curve around the gunwale nicely.

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## Johnny (Jun 6, 2016)

YouTube, dude - YouTube !!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pz6SA4dP-OY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RORoex0TTfY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMNAbFeWpn8






,


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## Texas Prowler (Jun 6, 2016)

Nice! Thanks!

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## Johnny (Jun 12, 2016)

also just ran across this on another tin boat website . . . 
https://www.timelessboatworks.com/content/boats/larson-crestliner-14-commodore/woodwork

have you started the project yet ?


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## Texas Prowler (Jun 12, 2016)

Haven't had time to get to a lumber yard yet, but i will this up coming weekend since i don't have a steamer could i soak the wood in water instead?

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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Jun 13, 2016)

Wrap the oak in towels and pour boiling water on it.


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## DaleH (Jun 13, 2016)

FWIW the wooden boat shop (5th generation now ...) on the river where I moor my boat has a SS steam tank 50' long running down one side of the building, in which they steam oak pieces for gunnels or to form mast hoops. Every gunnel I've ever seen was a laminate of 2 to 3 layers, kind of like what Johnny showed, but all fastened in place with copper rivets. 

They are 1 of only 2 traditional wooden specialists left in operation that is making the hardware for tall ships, schooners and the like; all of the 'running' gear needed at above the sailing deck - belaying pins, mast hoops, parrel beads, blocks, cleats, bullseyes, etc. ...

_Make SURE to wear_ welding or other 'hot material handling' gloves if/when handling the hot wood ...


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## Texas Prowler (Jun 13, 2016)

Thanks guys!

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## driz (Jun 16, 2016)

We had an Arkansas Traveler that looked exactly like that when I was growing up in the 60's. A real tank of a boat that was big enough not to worry if the wind came up with those nice high sides. The one problem we always had was those gunnels rotting out every couple years. I can see why everybody went to the all aluminum designs as they were a major PITA. Great boat though.
The best way of course would be with nice fat piece of something like 1/4" 2x2" aluminum angle. That would do the deed forever though you probably couldn't bend it right yourself and would have to farm it out , at least the bending fitting part and you do the rest yourself. Second best would be a nice hardwood, something like oak or maple. Seal the hell out of it on the bench before installing. When you put it on put the hardwood on then seal the top well with 3M 5200 and cap it with aluminum as stated before. Of course make sure to use stainless steel hardware. 
By the time you get done ordering wood, material, ect though it might just make more sense to see if that local steel fabricator (the guy who actually fixes your dinged up props you take to the dealer as well) may be able to bend one for you cheaper. You'd have a better job in the bargain as well and no more rot out headaches.


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## Texas Prowler (Jul 30, 2016)

Well guys I'm not having any luck finding a lumber yard open on the weekends that has white oak. I'll have to take off during the week I guess...Ugh.

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## driz (Aug 1, 2016)

You might try looking up any local good old boy saw mills. Sometimes they have the good stuff you won't find in stores and it will be cheaper. They might even make it right to spec for you. If you give one a call and he doesn't have any often they can tell you who does. Just stay away from anyplace saying Marine. Wood is wood but once it is blessed with the "M" word :roll: $$$$$$
Just another thought. Did you ask any of them if they could order you some? Most lumber outlets can easily and quickly get a lot of things they don't regularly stock. That's sort of become business as usual in recent years for most things. The thing is they (at least around here) don't charge for it but you do have to ask. I think even Lowes and Home Depo do it too, just ask.


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## Texas Prowler (Aug 1, 2016)

I sure didn't ask about having the wood ordered but i will and see what they say. Id like to get the tin on the water by fall.

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## Texas Prowler (Aug 15, 2016)

I found a specialty hardwood lumber yard that will be open this weekend. https://www.hlcdallas.com/solid.php
Just my luck I've called them before and this will be their first time open on the weekend. I'll have to stop by. 
The owner suggested i check out the juniper and cypress wood. I'll check out the white oak while I'm there as well.

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## Texas Prowler (Aug 20, 2016)

Well i ended up getting mahogany 2in strips cut and milled down to half inch thick. I think I'll end up having to do the gunwale trim in sections due to the curvature. Sucks... It doesn't just curve around the sides it actually curves up then down as well.

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## Johnny (Aug 20, 2016)

Tex - if you think that mahogany is hard to curve,
the white oak is twice as hard, if not more !!
to do your boat justice, the wood will have to be steamed
and clamped into position while you work it. (extra hands are very helpful here).
YouTube it - "how to steam bend wood"

Good luck in your project !!
Looking forward to the photos


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## Texas Prowler (Aug 20, 2016)

The guys at the shop did say white oak would be more difficult to work with. They actually suggested that i have the wood milled down to 1/4 strips. I will give steaming them a good shot. I'll try wrapping them in hot towels first.

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## Texas Prowler (Aug 21, 2016)

This Mahogany turned out to be extremely easy to work with. I am really happy! I'll post pics later after the drivers side is done. So far I've only used one c clamp. 

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## Texas Prowler (Aug 21, 2016)

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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Aug 21, 2016)

Did you have to steam it to bend it?


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## Texas Prowler (Aug 21, 2016)

I just used boiling water, towels, weights up to 35lbs, bungee cord and a c-clamp.

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## Texas Prowler (Sep 5, 2016)

I got a little steam going to see. If it would make the mahogany more flexible then the towels as you can see in the pics it worked wonderfully.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Sep 5, 2016)

I like the old Freon tank as a steam kettle.


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## Texas Prowler (Sep 6, 2016)

Thanks! I tried to be creative with what i have. Wrapped the wood with painters plastic and tape then ran a hose to it, then let it steam for a few hours.

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