# 1988 Evinrude 9.9 what should i do?



## brewfish (Jun 25, 2008)

Well here's the deal. I bought a jon boat with a 1988 9.9 Evinrude and a trailer for cheap. The guy I bought the rig from was a avid duck hunter so I know that whole time he owned it the motor never saw salt water. I know he didn't own the boat for but about 3 years so that leaves quite a few unknown years there. I asked him about the motor before buying the rig and here's the story that I got:

This guy is in the navy and lives in an apartment complex. When I bought it from him he said that he had just got back from deployment and while he was gone some guys had tried to steal the motor off the back of the boat. He said his wife told him that the security guard caught them in the act and that they hauled butt and were never caught. The gas tank got stolen and one side of the motor clamp (the threaded piece that actually clamps the motor to the boat) has that plastic handle broke off and the threads are pretty ate up. It looks like that tried to use some vice grips to unscrew it and in the process totally killed the threads on the one side. In the end he said they only were able to get away with the gas tank and he still had the fuel line that goes to the tank and of course the motor. He said that when he got back from deployment he tried to start the motor with the gas that was in still in the hose and couldn't get it started. He said he was buying a new boat so didn't want to fool with this one any more. :-k 

Not really sure what to make of the story....is it just that a story or is it the truth. I know you can't always judge a book by it's cover but for what it's worth he seemed like a stand up guy, no BS artist vibes at all and even went so far as to invite me to go duck hunting with him FWIW. 

All of this being said I am about 1/2 way done with my boat and this whole motor issue is starting to weigh heaver on my mind. I don't have a clue as to where I should even start with the motor. I've looked it over pretty well (removed the hood /lid whatever you call it) and didn't see what I would consider any salt water corrosion. The idle knob is gone and the pull start cord doesn't go all the way back in when pulled. When i was messing around with the motor I did take off a black plastic piece off the top of the carb and noticed the screws were definitely not originals as they had a couple of nuts larger than the actual screws serving as a spacer so the screws would tighten up properly. I also noticed that what ever the little black things are that have wires going from them to the spark plugs look new. I pulled out one of the plugs and seem to have a nice fat blue spark when I turned the motor over and had the plug grounded to the motor. I only checked one of them because the other plug was missing the little cap that screws over the end of the plug and didn't seem like it would make contact with the metal piece in the spark plug cap. I also noticed that there is a phillps head screw on the lower unit that looks like it has been used quite a few times so I am guessing (and hoping) that this has something to do with the lower end having the oil changed on somewhat regular basis. 

The bottom line is that i couldn't fill a thimble with what I know about working on outboard motors but I would like to start learning. I have a clymers manual that cover about 20 years worth of the evinrude motors between 3 and 40 horse and something crazy like a 20 year time span i believe. I have to say this manual is pretty much useless for the novice as it either assumes you know what certain parts are and some times totally omits steps when working on certain year models. I would really like to start gaining knowledge on how to work on outboards since the local mechanic just quoted me 85$ an hour labor and I am far from a rich guy! I don't want to spend a ton of money on something that I may never be able to get running but don't have the slightest clue on how to determine whether this thing may only need a few minor things or I would just be throwing good money after bad by trying to fix this it. Hell for all I know i may be able to buy a new tank. fill it up with gas and have this baby fire up but I some how doubt that. I'm pretty sure that is hasn't run in about 8 months to a year. If you've read through this whole rambling post God bless you and if you have any advice about where to start / what to do i would be greatfull!

Thanks,
Joe


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## bassboy1 (Jun 25, 2008)

Oh wow. That is going to be fun. Start posting pictures and descriptions of single problems (one at a time preferably) and I will try to help out as best as possible. 

Now, that phillips screw on the LU. Theoretically, the lower unit lube has only slotted screws. The phillips would be the shift fork screw, and if removed, you have to fully disassemble the lower unit to reconnect it. Now, the LU oil plugs could have been replaced with some aftermarket phillips screw, but I doubt it. Post a picture up of which one you are talking about.


Now, does the starter pull line go in at all, and just stop part way, or does it not move at all. I haven't checked my manual, but I believe that motor uses the same recoil starter as my 1988 Evinrude 4 deluxe, which is the ONLY thing I don't like about that motor. If it doesn't move at all, it means the spring is broken. The spring is a 12 foot long, 1/4 inch wide piece of spring steel, that is wound into a 4 inch diameter housing. A total pain to replace. If it goes in part of the way, but not all the way, there could be a knot in the rope, or the spring may have a kink in it somewhere. Post a picture of the starter, so I can verify which one it is, and I can tell you exactly how to fix it.


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## KMixson (Jun 26, 2008)

Where to start? Info on your motor. It will not start without a fuel tank and pressure applied from the tank with the primer bulb.

The idle adjustment knob is used more for setting a higher idle while trolling than a low idle. It can be used without one. There are four parts needed to replace it if it is missing. An idle adjustment knob, idle adjustment spring washer, idle adjustment retaining ring, and a idle adjustment screw. These four parts can be found on internet sites for about twenty five to thirty dollars.

As for the black plastic thing on top of the carb, If you could send a picture of it, it would help tremendously. I think you may be talking about the air silencer cover but I am not sure.

Now to the pull cord/starter rope. Are you able to pull it out far enough so that you don't bind up or break the rewind spring? You need to be able to pull it out far enough to so that you don't reach the binding point of the rewind spring in normal starting procedures. If you can pull out enough then you may be able to just shorten the rope slightly to the starting rope handle. If not you neeed to replace the starting rope which is available at hardware stores. Evinrude recommends a rope sixty four inches in length. Be careful changing it as the rewind spring is wound up in the cup and spring guide assembly and can jump out and cause injury to you and bystanders. If you replace the spring also, they come tied up into a coil and you dont untie them until they are in the cup and spring guide assembly.

As for the little black things with the wires going to the spark plugs, they are called ignition coils. 

I hope you are able to get it running without too much time and money spent on it. They are great little motors. I am very happy with mine. Good luck.


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## bassboy1 (Jun 26, 2008)

KMixson said:


> If you replace the spring also, they come tied up into a coil and you dont untie them until they are in the cup and spring guide assembly.


They come tied in a 7 inch coil, but have to go into the four inch housing. Didn't make a bit of sense to me either......


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## brewfish (Aug 17, 2008)

Thanks for the replies but I decided to just take the motor to a certified mechanic. There's a Wyotech nearby and one of the marine mechanic instructors there has a repair business on the side so i went that route instead of taking it to a marina. If this build has taught me anything it's to know your limitations. I would much rather spend a few bucks to have someone who has all the right tools and knowledge do it right the first time. I'll also have the piece of mind that it's in good running order since a seasoned prove gave it a thorough checkup, not some half a$$ shade tree mechanic job that I would have done. :lol:


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## SlimeTime (Aug 17, 2008)

Brew, have someone run the #'s on the motor, it just "looks" (I know :roll: lol ) bigger than a 9.9. Wonder if someone changed the cowl sticker (to slip under the 10hp limit)........it (sticker) looks to be in much better condition than the surrounding area.

ST


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## bluegillfisher (Aug 18, 2008)

I messed with a 25hp 'rude last summer and couldn't get it running right. This last winter I took boat to dealer and had them check motor out. First thing they did was run compression test to see if motor was good. Then, they fixed everything that I had thought was messed up--but didn't know for sure--and didn't want to throw money at if I was wrong. Motor runs great this year. Money well spent. 
Mary


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## Fish Monger (Aug 21, 2008)

They can be fun to work on and not overly complicated, but you need the time to do it. If you are hurrying to get on the water you will inevitably cut corners and screw seomthing up. Nine times out of ten it's better to pay someone to look at it. Plus, parts for these older motors are NOT cheap. I didn't read this whole thread, but did read your initial post entirely. I definately think you did the right thing by taking it to someone. You never know who mickey-moused around with what.


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## Jim (Aug 21, 2008)

I always pay! :LOL2: I will break it I take anything apart.


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