# 16' V hull FINALLY DONE!....for now 3/17....see final POST.



## bassnbrian (Oct 2, 2009)

Hey


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## bassnbrian (Oct 2, 2009)

FYI dont know if its obvious in the plan but we will be removing the 2 middle benches and building the raised floors atop the 2 end benches.


please feel free to chime in with any input as this is all brand new to me.

(floor plan is not exact...just a rough idea. ...for example, I think the back platform may have to come forward another foot...and that will determine wether 1 or 2 seats in the middle is possible)

Thanks!


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## CRAPPIE_SLAYER (Oct 2, 2009)

Nice job on the paint. What kind of paint did you use?


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## G3_Guy (Oct 2, 2009)

That's a great looking boat with a nice paint job! I look forward to seeing more pics as the mods come along. =D>


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## bassnbrian (Oct 2, 2009)

CRAPPIE_SLAYER said:


> Nice job on the paint. What kind of paint did you use?




ummm....I used what the guy at the marine store handed me  ...not at home at the moment so Im not sure.
Sorry. 

As I said..this is all new to me lol


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## CarlF (Oct 2, 2009)

Nice boat and great paint job,

Im not to sure about your plan to remove both middle bench seats. I think you are going to have to add some bracing or other structural support to keep it from flexing too much in the middle.


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## bassnbrian (Oct 2, 2009)

I was concerned about lack of support also, but my machinist buddy looked under the benches and told me that from what he saw they didnt offer much support as they are, and so he feels they could be removed.
But from what you said and what I have read elsewhere here I will mention additional support again.


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## CarlF (Oct 2, 2009)

its not what they support under the benches, its the structural stability they add! 
They keep the boat from "taco-ing", or flexing in & out under load & stress.
I havent seen to many 16' boats that comfortably fish 4, it will be tight.


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## Waterwings (Oct 3, 2009)

Nice rig! As CarlF mentioned above, 4 in a 16' boat is tight. My 16 ft'er states 4 on the tag, but there's no way I'd try it. Two people plus gear is comfortable, leaving room to move.


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## bassnbrian (Oct 3, 2009)

I have had 3 on it numerous times with no spacial difficulties so far, was hoping that opening up some room miht allow for another small person =)

I think my wife has her heart set on it being built for 4 to accomidate future little ones. So maybee instead of 2 removeable seats, we could put in one of the back to back style seats.


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## CarlF (Oct 4, 2009)

You & the wife and two younguns would be fine, especially just motoring around/panfishing.
I was thinking 4 adults, which would definately be tight.


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## danmyersmn (Oct 4, 2009)

Agreed, you will have no problem with 2 adults or 2 kids. 3 adults is easy as well. 4 adults will be pushing it--if for nothing else its hard to find fishing space. If you take your storage that you have on that one side and narrow it down and put it on both sides you will have your side support back. The seats are holding your sides in place so they do not fold in or out. By boxing the sides with the side storage area you will get that support back. That is, assuming you are going to attach the side storage to both an attached floor and the sides. Look at how CrappieSlayer is doing his. He is boxing the sides and the support should be darn strong.


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## bassnbrian (Oct 5, 2009)

heres another question regarding the issue of support.

There have been several mods I have seen on this forum where all benches have been removed from v hull boats and the only support added being beneath the flooring with aluminum or wood. And yet on those builds I havent seen much concern over tacoing...

I am trying to understand this concern since we will be keeping 2 seats (maybee 3 if I decide to keep the second from front bench) and removing 1 to 2 while adding support under the flooring.
As I said I am new to this but I dont get the concern when it seems like our build will have more support with the remaining seats and the underfloor support as apposed to the builds with just the underfloor support....Not trying to be rude here ....just trying to learn.

And If at all feasible I want to avoid storage on both sides since the boat is only 5 feet wide and storage on both sides would make moving around VERY difficult and cramped.


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## CRAPPIE_SLAYER (Oct 6, 2009)

Pretty new at all of this, but from the way I understand it, if you go by the plan you made one the first page I would think that the combination of the support along the floor and the storage area down the one side of the boat would eliminate any flexing. Again, I'm no pro, just my .02


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## danmyersmn (Oct 6, 2009)

CRAPPIE_SLAYER said:


> Pretty new at all of this, but from the way I understand it, if you go by the plan you made one the first page I would think that the combination of the support along the floor and the storage area down the one side of the boat would eliminate any flexing. Again, I'm no pro, just my .02



On the side you do not want to build a storage section you have your rod holders.
https://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j304/gabrionus/06300916391.jpg

If you take the rod holders off and use a piece of 1x1x1/4 angle aluminium and run it from the point the top of the rod holders connect to the side and fasten it to the floor where the seat is connecting. You will retain your side support. Then you will mount your rod holders too the new aluminium angle. Another build on here has a picture like that. It has a paddle stored behind the rod holders. I just don't recall where the pic is. That may be an idea to consider. Plus watch crappie_slayers build. He has one heck of a nice side storage build going on. =D> 

The reason that you see different comments about adding support, not adding support, etc. is that we each have our own ideas and thoughts on if the boat needs support or not. I don't believe we have any structural engineers that have done studies, nor do we have any proof of a boat actually tacoing. For myself, I would rather caution on the side of adding more support then needed. It would be terrible to do all the work only to scrap out your hull first time you need to get off a lake with rollers and whitecaps.

In the end we each need to decide how to customize and build the structure for our rigs, what materials to use, how much support, how thick, etc. etc. etc. This forum is great for seeing the trailblazer ahead of us. The final decision, however, is own ourselves.

I was going to build side storage all the way down the side of my rig. I then decided to build sides as narrow as possible (as narrow as I thought would give the support I wanted) and put them on both sides. I decided to fill these voids with foam instead of storage as well. The more I thought on it, narrow foam filled sides would give me support and floatation and I decided that was of more value then a wider run of storage on one side. I have other plans for storage that will be revealed as I build my rig and I am pretty sure I have figured out the best build for my rig and my goals.


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## CRAPPIE_SLAYER (Oct 6, 2009)

"In the end we each need to decide how to customize and build the structure for our rigs, what materials to use, how much support, how thick, etc. etc. etc. This forum is great for seeing the trailblazer ahead of us. The final decision, however, is own ourselves."



Well said!


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## bassnbrian (Oct 6, 2009)

> If you take the rod holders off and use a piece of 1x1x1/4 angle aluminium and run it from the point the top of the rod holders connect to the side and fasten it to the floor where the seat is connecting. You will retain your side support. Then you will mount your rod holders too the new aluminium angle




Thats a great Idea. plus the additional length of the bar with the rod holders (if im understanding you correctly) will give room for more rods to be held. (there is nothing that bugs me more than a bunch of rods all over the place while im trying to fish lol...and I bring ALOT of rods)

When doing this though...do the bars need to be at a certain angle? As in will they need to be at a 45...and thus be in the middle of the floor space? (and tripped over) or can they be at a sharper angle where they connect with the floor support and still offer enough support?

Thanks a bunch!


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## danmyersmn (Oct 6, 2009)

bassnbrian said:


> > If you take the rod holders off and use a piece of 1x1x1/4 angle aluminium and run it from the point the top of the rod holders connect to the side and fasten it to the floor where the seat is connecting. You will retain your side support. Then you will mount your rod holders too the new aluminium angle
> 
> 
> 
> ...



here you go. It was bugging me that I couldn't find the picture so I went and found it. Notice how it is tying the side into the floor cross support? If you do that you should improve the support quite a bit.











Here is the build
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=6902

When i doubt, I say spend more time on this site :lol:


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## bassnbrian (Oct 6, 2009)

that looks perfect!
Thanks a ton!


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## Rat (Oct 6, 2009)

Tacoing {image of boat folding in half while underway} is a bit of a misnomer as well as, we tend to describe things in extremes. What usually happens when you remove the lateral support is "localized repetitive flexing" IOW you have a very small area that is prone to intense, repetitive flexing that will eventually lead to metal fatigue and failure. Riveted hulls are designed to flex, but the flex is engineered to be over a much larger area which keeps it from being either repetitive or localized. The two most common failures I have seen from side panel flexing are:
1) A crease or crack forms in the bottom of the hull in one of the lateral ribs very close to the longitudinal center line of the hull
2) A crease or crack forms in the bottom of the hull in one of the lateral ribs very close to the chine, usually accompanied by one on the opposite side.

I think these two stress fractures have different causes, but are both as a result of side panel flexing. In the first instance i think it is a trailering issue mostly and in the second caused when underway in heavy to moderate chop. 

An easy way to check is to establish a baseline before you remove anything structural. I have used an old pull scale and ratchet straps to figure it out. Measure the beam at the sheer line of your hull, attach the scale and ratchet strap across the beam, tighten the strap until you have 10 pounds of pull on the scale, then measure the beam again. This will give you an amount of deflection for an amount of compression. Then you can design a brace system that will allow you the same results or, if you want to, go to a higher amount of deflection or compression. 

For example, you have 2 inches of deflection for 10 pounds of compression. But, after you have removed the seats you can easily tell that maybe 4 inches at 10 pounds will be okay, then you can design to that. At least you have something to go back to if it all falls apart (not literally) or you want to change a design element.


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## bassnbrian (Dec 10, 2009)

Started work on my 16'.

Changed the plans to the below


Decided to remove only one seat and will install support to compensate for removal.
heres the pics of recent work. My carpentry skills are obviously pretty poor, but everything so far is extremely sturdy and hopefully carpet will cover up my lack of skill.
I am going for an extremely simple build using the existing seats(except for one) as base and support. While this limits my capactity for storage. It makes sense for my skill level.
Everything will be easy to remove and reinstall in case I want to do thing differently in the future.

this will be the floor of the storage below the front deck. Decking will be equal level with existing benches using the 1" thick plywood deck left by previous owner.
You can see it in the first pic. He supported the plywood with 2 long aluminum L shaped braced drilled into the seats. I will do the same but raise the decking up to seat level. Fished alot with the boat in some choppy conditions and it is very stable even when standing on seats so the decking should work fine at that level.
need to make some small doors for storage here. Going to store the battery underneath the seat as was shown in another mod (the minnow bucket...thanks for the idea =). This storage here will be used primarily for an anchor. And another layer of thin plywood wil be added.


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## bassnbrian (Dec 13, 2009)

A few more pics.

Added some plywood to close off storage area and keep stuff from falling through cracks.

Added support for 1" plywood flooring.

cut out hatch.
next up is adding hinges to hatch and finishing the front decking by adding another layer of plywood and cutting out a hatch for storage.


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## Waterwings (Dec 13, 2009)

Lookin' good! 8)


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## bassnbrian (Dec 22, 2009)

Been puting some more hours into the boat.

-hatches added to trolling motor deck
-Decided to add storage space to both sides. 
-livewell storage added behind front deck (well, at least the framing for it)
-reinforced support on both sides
-flooring bolted into ribs, storage frame bolted into flooring


still to do:
-rear deck frame
-wiring for livewell, electric start motor, trolling motor(s), 
-storage paneling
-carpeting

definately learning a ton from doing the work and reading other's threads. Perhaps next year or the year after I may re-do some of my shoddy carpentry lol. For now she is ugly underneath but sturdy and functional and hopefully the carpeting will cover her blemishes =)

so with the change in plans as the work evolved it looks like I will end up the build looking like this.

alot less floor space than I had anticipated...but with keeping the seats in, there wasnt really a way around that.

I don think I am finished modifying boats though! This has been highly addicting and maybe in years to come I will do total seat removal on this or another boat.


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## bassnbrian (Dec 31, 2009)

more work done.

Still to come....

Carpetting...cant decide whether of not I want to carpet the sides of the boat as well or just the decks, floor and storage.

Livewell....I need to find plans somewhere or come up with plans that dont involve cutting large hoes in the hull for intake and outflow. I am fine with transom holes...but drilling a hole below the water line for any reason makes me nervous.

Installation of 2 fishfinders fore and aft.


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## danmyersmn (Jan 1, 2010)

looks great. Don't be afraid to drill a hole below the waterline. After the first one the rest are much easier. 
Plus if you mess up you will learn how to patch the hole. :mrgreen:


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## Rat (Jan 1, 2010)

Yep, good lookin' cockpit layout. And I'm with Dan, just drill the hole, use 5200 for sealant and let 'er run. A Unibit makes nice clean holes.


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## bassnbrian (Jan 2, 2010)

thanks for the input guys.

Maybee you could give me some input on carpet...

I am debating wether or not to carpet the wall of just the floor and decking.
Heres a pic of the bow with carpeting done. (that is window glare on the left hatch)


so whats your opinion?

-do rest of the boat like above? (this is the only section completed so far)

-carpet sides?

-paint the sides with
or something like it??


not like it matters a ton, but just looking to see what others think.

Thanks again!


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## dyeguy1212 (Jan 3, 2010)

option A


Looks great man


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## danmyersmn (Jan 3, 2010)

I would paint the sides with something like Rustoleum Marine. I see no reason to carpet them or put a no-skid on.


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## bassnbrian (Jan 3, 2010)

danmyersmn said:


> I would paint the sides with something like Rustoleum Marine. I see no reason to carpet them or put a no-skid on.



well I was thinking the non skid paint would help with noise reduction. I tend to make quite the racket.


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## danmyersmn (Jan 4, 2010)

oh, well it would probably do that then 

If that is the goal I think I would go with the rubber coating over the carpet.


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## bassnbrian (Jan 11, 2010)

carpeting done.
Probably will be removing staples and replacing them with dark-harder to see carpet nails for some time =)....but anyway at least its down.

Gotta say carpeting was my least favorite part so far...

heres the pics...sorry for the cell phone quality
pardon the gorilla tape here...had to cover some jagged metal edges...gonna try and 
find something more attractive to cover them with eventually.


Work still to come:
-installation of bilge pump
-livewell installation
-Fish finder installation
-switchboard
-interior storage walls (yeah I shoulda done that first...but thats what happens when you learn as you go lol)
-chair installation

Thank you all for this awesome site...would not have had a clue without yall!


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## dyeguy1212 (Jan 11, 2010)

looks good man


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## fathead406 (Jan 16, 2010)

Nice job on the mod bassnbrian. Where did you buy your carpet at? Lookin to buy carpet here real soon.


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## bassnbrian (Jan 18, 2010)

The carpet is indoor/outdoor and can be found at Home Depot for $.49. per square foot. I bought more than I needed and it ended up being (by far) the most expensive single component of the build so far.

I was lucky to get all the wood,except a couple peices of ply, for free from my church. (they were disposing of a christmas play's set materials)

many of the nails, screws and a few tools were left behind at our house by the previous home owners.

Plus...I bought the boat/trailer/motor with money I earned from selling warhammer minis on ebay =)!

all in all a very inexpensive boat for what it will end up as IMHO. (even if the wife disagrees lol!)


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## Gordy52 (Jan 20, 2010)

nice plans looks like a fun project.


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## fathead406 (Jan 20, 2010)

Hey Bassnbrian when you put your carpet on did you glue it? Did you have to cut your hatches just a little bit smaller to allow for the carpet? And another thing did you wrap your carpet around your hatches and under your deck? then staple the bottom? I'm going to buy carpet tomorrow just wondering how to do it? would'nt mind seeing a pic with one of your doors open to see the bottom. Looks awesome though makes me excited to get going on mine!


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## bassnbrian (Jan 20, 2010)

Its hard finding a glue that workds well in the cold winter weather here in michigan.
But gorrilla glue did work well in the places I needed it.

to answer your question.

I carpeted each hatch door seperately by wrapping the carpet around each.

I carpeted the remainder of the wood surfaces with staples and carpet nails and gorrilla glue when on aluminum.


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## daltonmcgill (Jan 20, 2010)

looks good =D>


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## bassnbrian (Mar 10, 2010)

Hey guys,

took some time off from the boat to ice fish.

Starting up again and here is the progress so far

I would rather have had 2 seats the same color...but couldnt find another red one...(which i owned already)

only jobs left are
1) installing the livewell system. 
2) powering the front FF and motor.
3) installing a new trailer coupler as the old one cracked slightly one one side on the last day of use.


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## Big Bobby Blade (Mar 10, 2010)

That is a great paint job what kind of paint and primer did you use? I have an old 16' deep v that I am ready to paint like yesterday. I could use some guidance. I wolud appreciate any advice. thanx

big bobby blade


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## bassnbrian (Mar 11, 2010)

Paint is outdoor rustoleum.(spray)

no primer, but several coats.

has stood up well while grinding against docks.


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## sturdi87 (Mar 12, 2010)

bassnbrian said:


> Plus...I bought the boat/trailer/motor with money I earned from selling warhammer minis on ebay =)!


Side note, sorry, but since you brought it up, maybe I'm behind on recent trends but what are warhammer minis? I honestly have no idea, I highly doubt I'm the only one that has no idea what you were talking about here, is this a new kind of spinnerbait or something? just to ask the question no one else did!

But anyways nice job on the carpet... I just finished carpeting my bunks and I tell you I will not be doing any professional carpeting jobs because this task gave me one hell of a time. I simply could not keep it from buckling. I even had two other people try to do it, then watch me try to do it, I have finally concluded that it has to do with the way the carpet was made, specifically the backing, and subsequently how it was stretching, I'm going to try a different carpet on my decks but if it goes like the bunks mine won't hold a candle to yours or most/many peoples on here!


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## bassnbrian (Mar 12, 2010)

warhammer minis are little army men 28mm in scale that you assemble entire armies of and battle opponents.
The main people who play are 30+ and nerdy!
But I just paint the minis to pass the time during winter.


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## Runnin' Ruby (Mar 20, 2010)

Boat looks great. Carpeting looks like it would not be fun. I bought a boat that already had a floor in it but I don't know if it is plain treated wood or marine grade treated wood. I am thinking of tearing everything out and starting from scratch. What did you use to seal the plywood for the decking?


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## bassnbrian (Mar 22, 2010)

I only used thomson water sealer. Not near as good as the laminates or epoxy's some guys use but I figured that ,as I am planning on revamping the boat from winter to winter to ease cabin fever. and find my ideal set-up....I dont need to build quite so permenantly (plus the boat is garage stored and I wont be fishing in the rain or rough water if I can help it.)


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## bassnbrian (Apr 9, 2010)

Got some more work done on the boat.
*Interior painted
*bilge pump installed
*livewell piping installed (exterior bilge runs to livewell, bilge in well for outflow)
*running lights installed

still need power for the front FF,trolling motor and livewell ...but its more or less ready for fishing!

maiden voyage this week while I wait for money for front batteries and switch panel

I love that she looks like a new boat!

inflow to livewell


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## ober51 (Apr 9, 2010)

Ive never seen that before - a bilge on the outside of the transom.


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## bassnbrian (Apr 10, 2010)

stole the idea from another guy on here who does the same for his livewell.

Works the same as a livewell intake pump...just no hole drilled in hull.
And you need to wait to fill well until you are in clear weedless water as to not clog the pump.


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## Specknreds (Apr 10, 2010)

Nice mods!! =D> I like the way you laid it out. It's like a Florida flats boat with walk around gunnels.


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## alanbird_87 (Apr 20, 2010)

Very nice job on the boat so far. Did u paint the motor or did it come like that? Looks real good though!


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## bassnbrian (Apr 21, 2010)

motor lid was painted black.

Had a kid over who wanted to do something for the boat...so I let him go at the Lid


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## Troutman3000 (Apr 21, 2010)

Looks good man.


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## bigtroutpa (Jul 14, 2010)

Hey Bassnbrian,

Nice work, just bought the exact same boat that someone has removed the middle seats, seems like a heavy built sturdy boat. Would you happen to be able to get me the capacity plate information if your boat still has a legible one?


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## bassnbrian (Mar 26, 2011)

Well, the previous design seen in this post didnt last more than a year. =)
It had lots of storage space and a livewell I never used. 
But whenever I took more than one person out (I usually take a couple teens from my youth group)
it got crowded real quick.
So worked all winter long and this is what I came up with.

-Shortened the front deck area (just barely big enough to sit and move the trolling motor)
-took out all side storage
-removed middle seat (one had been removed already)
-replaced support
-added framework at a raised level. (at the indent that runs along side of boat)
-Added flooring on top of framewook.
-added storage areas 
-placed all removed foam from both seats beneath deck (along sides keeping center clear for drainage)
-carpeted decking
-added swivel eze mounts and 3 new chairs )13" mounts pictured-also will have 6" stands available for choppier rides-plus seats can fit flat to floor (when this is done they are below level of standard benches)
-new motor
-new trolling motor
-built new switch/electrical center (that opens for easy access)
-anchor buddy
-new paint job

above image altered to hide numbers

looking forward to fishing! The new mod gives so much more room it will be nice not to climb over people constantly. It will be especially nice with just two people now.


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## jasper60103 (Mar 27, 2011)

That's a sweet ride. You'll love the open flat floor. How has the anchormate worked out for you? I'm still debating mounting mine.


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## bushead11 (Apr 14, 2011)

I have got a 14' blue fin I am working on and was wondering if you can take a photo or two of the framing on your back deck. I left all 3 seats in my boat and the issue I am running into with the 14' is: if I run framing for the hatches from the seats to the transom I cannot get the gas tank in or out. I also want to be sure that the hatch is hinged over the rear bench slightly for support. Having some visuals on how you did yours would be really helpful.


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## bassnbrian (Mar 17, 2012)

(PICS BELOW)

Well, last years mod ended up causing massive leaking as the floor (though raised) was below the water line and the screws attaching it to the hull loosened and in some places fell off...leaving several small holes on both sides  

So....b
1) Tore it all apart and fixed all the holes with HTS 200 brazing rods. 
2) Covered remaining hull bottom interior with rustoleum leak seal.
3) Build aluminum framing for new (and much lower) floor.
4) added new flooring (added foam padding and painted with grey rustoleum plastic exterior)
5) Built side and front storage (with one rod-locker)
6) carpeted all storage tops
7) rewired/reinstalled ignition, lights, bilge pumps, fish finder.
8) interior and exterior painted (interior-grey and white with color flecks added while still tacky)

I built the floor low and did not add a casting deck due to the boat being somewhat shallow anyhow and not needing a casting deck. It will be much more stable, and safer for my son when he starts fishing. I decided on no carpeting so that clean up would be much easier. 
Next winter a buddy of mine will add fiberglass to all interior walls ( but it will look just like it does now...only smoother) and this boat will hopefully be DONE.


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