# Lowe 14' flat bottom 6' wide mods needed (COMPLETE) *PICS*



## cybereyes (Feb 15, 2009)

Hi. I'm new to the forum and a new Lowe boat owner. As the title states I have a 14' Lowe flat bottom boat that is 6ft wide. As of now its pretty basic. It does have what appears to be a small deck on the front, but I would like to really deck this thing out. I've seen some pics here and there of Jon boats that have had a lot of mods done to them, and seem to even have live wells installed or other storage incorporated into their home made decks. I haven't seemed to be able to find any real details though other than a few pictures. Does anyone have any detailed plans they have used or even some good pics of mods that you have done to your Jon boat so I can get some ideas. I really don't even know where to start. I'm somewhat of a boating novice. So I'm just looking for any help or to be pointed in the right direction. Thanks.


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## daltonmcgill (Feb 15, 2009)

HERES A LINK https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=3156


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## Waterwings (Feb 15, 2009)

Welcome Aboard! Checkout the link that dalton posted and you'll find lots of mods that will provideideas that you may want to incorporate to your boat modifications. Which model Lowe boat do you have?


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## Jim (Feb 15, 2009)

:WELCOME:

Thanks for joining! :beer:

Try to post up some pictures of your boat if you can!


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## baptistpreach (Feb 16, 2009)

Its 14ft by 6!?! I've never heard of one that wide, largest I've heard was a 1448. I'd love to see pics, sounds like a dream!


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## Captain Ahab (Feb 16, 2009)

When you say 6' wide - are you measuring from gunnal to gunnal or at the base of the hull?


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## cybereyes (Feb 16, 2009)

Hi again, thanks for the replies. Here is a pic of my boat. I put the measuring tape across the top of it at its widest point and it comes out to a little over 71 inches. I'm not sure of the model. The guy I bought it off of was calling it a Lowe Double wide, and its a 1987 model.


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## cybereyes (Feb 16, 2009)




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## ben2go (Feb 16, 2009)

Well,that's a first for me.That's a wide jon.Nice find.You could put casting decks on the front and rear.


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## erau618 (Feb 16, 2009)

I wish my 1636 was that wide.


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## Henry Hefner (Feb 16, 2009)

Glad you found the site, we've been waiting for you!

The Lowe website lists their 1448 with a 70" beam.


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## cybereyes (Feb 16, 2009)

Henry Hefner said:


> Glad you found the site, we've been waiting for you!
> 
> The Lowe website lists their 1448 with a 70" beam.



Ahh, well maybe that is what I have. I haven't noticed anything on the boat that represents any kind of model other than the word Lowes on the side. Thanks for the info.


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## Henry Hefner (Feb 16, 2009)

cybereyes said:


> Ahh, well maybe that is what I have. I haven't noticed anything on the boat that represents any kind of model other than the word Lowes on the side. Thanks for the info.



I found it here: Clicky
If you will look on the inside of your transom, upper right, I believe you will find the nameplate that will give you the model, weight limit, maximum horsepower, etc. 
Wide boat = stability
The wider the boat, the higher you can build any decks and not tip the boat. That is a great boat to modify. I will enjoy watching your progress.


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## cybereyes (Feb 17, 2009)

Well I guess my next step now is to figure out where to start. The very first thing I plan on doing is replacing my transom. It looks like it is getting soft in a couple of areas, and once I spend some time fabricating this boat I will probably plan on keeping it for a long time, so I might as well fix that right now. The next thing I'm going to do is removing everything from inside the boat like the seats and the little bit of flooring that is in it now and start from stratch by painting the boat inside and out, not sure what color, but after that I want to put some flooring with carpet throuhout the entire boat, and then I plan on starting on the deck. 

Ultimately I want to add a live well in it complete with aerator pump and a bilge pump as well. I want to also add a few other storage compartments and a guage cluster and switch panel up front to monitor and control battery power. So once I get the transom replaced and the boat painted and floor installed, would it be best to build the deck and just cut the right size holes in it for the storage? Or order that stuff and build around it? How do I install a permanent live well? Am I right in thinking I have to cut a hole in the boat to install the pump? Right now I'm just over whelmed and have all these things I want to do all at once. I went on Cabellas and had about $900 dollars worth of stuff in my basket and then got cold feet wondering if I would be ordering the right stuff. They even have some prefab hatches and storage boxes on there.


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## Brine (Feb 17, 2009)

Hi Cyber, I'm still a newbie here too, and in the beginning stages of my rebuild. You have stumbled into a wealth of information on the subject of aluminum boat modifications. Take your time and go through the mods sections and learn the tricks of the trade. My advice, so long as you are working with a tight budget like myself, is to get advice from the guys on here about each step of your build. Even if you have a big budget, the guys here have learned the "right" way to do this.

You've got a great boat to work with. You could probably build a dance floor in that thing and be fine. Good luck with the build, and I'll look forward to watching your progress.


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## baptistpreach (Feb 19, 2009)

As far as a livewell is concerned, see what Russ did, https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=6651 . If you want to build it in your boat permanently, be patient! :lol: I'm doing it right now and I'm not drilling any holes. My goal is to have my boat finished by my birthday in a little more than a week, and I'll post pics of mine. I've got everything I need except a couple small things, and I'm getting them tomorrow. I def. wouldn't go buying $900 of stuff from Cabelas unless you're sure that's what you want. I haven't tallied everything on mine, but I'm pretty confident it won't be over $350 plus $250 for the boat and trailer = good deal! I'd scour thru the mods that have been done, and take the good, leave the bad. Here's a link for mine: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=5624. Have fun, and when I find a boat like yours, I'm gonna buy it! Awesome boat, I love it, have fun


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## cybereyes (Feb 19, 2009)

Sounds good, I will be interested to see how your livewell turns out. I definately want to install one with the pump and all, but didn't know how to go about getting water pumped into it without making a hole in the boat somewhere, which is fine, but I wanted to make sure I was doing it the "right" way first. Most of that 900 dollars in stuff from Cabellas was things like the livewell itself. Like for instance a permanent metal livewell built thin and long specifically for jon boats was 299 dollars by itself. Then you add in the pump kit, electrical guages like battery meters, power switches, marine carpet, prefabbed aluminum hatches, etc, it all adds up. I order so much from Cabellas they send me this big thick hard back book every year lol. It is very impressive actually, and yes I'm talking about a catalog. This is the list of items I was considering.


Anchor Pulley x 2 $15 each Total $30
The Anchor Pulley is a lock and release pulley that sets or releases anchor without the need for leaving your seat. Mounting base length is 2-13/16" x 5-1/4", overall length is 7-1/4". 

Aluminum Boat Patch $6.99 (Just in case)
Repairs Leaks in Aluminum Boats. This fusion bondage epoxy will repair and waterproof aluminum boat rivets, minor cracks and small holes without welding. Easy to apply; no solvents or mixing. All you need is a standard torch and fine sandpaper or a wire brush. Instructions included. Large size sticks will handle twice the repairs of other kits. 

Boat Registration Letter & Number Kit $12.99 (because I'm painting the boat)
Give your boat a custom look with Coast Guard-regulation letter and number kits. Kit contains 3" regulation numbers and letters in your choice of factory-matched colors. All are made with sun-screen-coated inks and are specially treated to resist fuel, fading and scratches. Each kit includes four sets of letters (A-Z) and four sets of numbers (0-9). There are 144 decals total.

Dry-Stor/Livewells Large size 47"x16"x15 is $189 ( I originally thought two of these for storage, but may can just go with one)
Add a portable livewell or dry-storage box to any sized boat from the smallest two-person bass boat up to a large cabin cruiser. Easily portable, these plastic livewells have molded carrying handles, drink holders and accessory trays for added convenience. Add your own aeration system to keep bait lively and a built-in drain plug lets you empty the contents quickly. A 21" ruler on the lid lets you quickly measure fish for easy catch-and-release fishing.

Moeller® Portable Fuel Tanks $59.99 ( for when I buy a small motor later) 
Item Number: IK-012942
MODEL:300 - 9 GALLON 

FishmatePro 30" Pro Bass Livewell $299
FishmatePro builds livewells with one clear goal in mind: "Keeping 'em alive". The Pro Bass 30" is Fishmate's most compact livewell and accommodates bass, crappie, panfish, walleye and any other fish with limited length and where the fishing boat has limited installation space. It's built to the same standards as their larger models. This rugged little box would be a great addition to any jon boat, skiff or any other small boat with limited space. Constructed from corrosion-resistant aluminum, it has welded seams for years of fishing. Diamond-style top finish for a rich look. 
Dimensions: 30" x 12" x 10" deep. 
Capacity: 2.08 cu. ft., 15.6 gallon. 

Jon Boat Cover $54.99 (for obvious reasons)
Don't settle for cheap tarps or poor-fitting, oversized boat covers. Get a cover that is specifically built for your Jon Boat. These universal-fit covers are made of 300-denier heavy-duty polyester with an elastic cord in the hemline for a snug fit. Tie-down straps with quick-release buckles are included for even more security in high winds and when trailering. The included storage sack keeps the cover clean and protected when not in use. Five-year warranty. Imported. 

Battery Gauges $26.99 ( Nice to have)
Use these battery gauges to monitor your batteries.
Permanent Battery Gauges work with any 12-volt lead-acid battery. Internally lit for day or night use, they are easy to mount and include step-by-step instructions. In-dash single gauge requires 2" to 2-1/16" diameter hole.
Available: Single-Battery Gauge, Two-Battery Gauge, Four-Battery Gauge.

Cabela's Livewell Aerating Kit $66.99 ( to go with the livewell)
Item Number: IJ-012937 
This item is in stock. 

Marine-Grade Wire - 6-Gauge $1.79 foot and I was planning on 25 feet just in case Total = $37.25
Item Number: IK-015716
MODEL:6 GAUGE BLK PER/FOOT 

Premium Bilge/Livewell Hose $1.79 buying 3 Total = $5.37
This hose is designed for critical livewell or bilge applications. Smooth-walled vinyl hose can be connected above or below water line. Smooth design increases water flow and accepts tight bends.
Available: 3/4" Diameter, 1-1/8" Diameter, 1-1/2" Diameter. 

T-H Marine Straight Through-Hull Fittings $2.99 ( in case i needed to put a hole in the boat for the livewell.)
These Through-Hull Straight fittings are crafted from high-quality, durable white nylon. Perfect to replace leaking, plugged or slow-flowing fittings – even add a new drain or hook up a livewell.
Available: 3/4", 1-1/8" to 1-1/4", 1-1/2

Carpet and Vinyl Floor Adhesive $22.99 (for the carpet)
This vinyl adhesive is the perfect match to our marine carpets. Simple to apply with a notched trowel, this adhesive is highly recommended by our carpet and vinyl supplier for marine applications. Vinyl adhesive is latex-based and can be cleaned up with water. Per gallon. 

Premier Marine Carpet 8 ft size for $44.99
If you want your boat to look as good as it performs, make sure it's outfitted with this top-quality marine carpeting. Made from tough, UV-stabilized, weatherproof polypropylene, it will stand up to years of punishment dished out by rain, sun and spray. And, it's available in a wide range of colors to match any boat's interior. 
Sizes: 6-ft. wide, per 3-ft. running length, 8-ft. wide, per 3-ft. running length. 

Sure Seal™ Storage Hatch Liners 1 or 2 of these in case I want to make some more storage bins $29.99 each
The vacuum-formed Sure Seal Liners drop into the small or medium hatches to provide dry storage for tackle and gear. Can be permanently mounted or left unattached. Add your own fittings to convert to a livewell or baitwell.

4-Gang Switch Panel $39.99 
Built by the leading boat-builder's electronics manufacturer, this top-quality unit features four on/off switches with red indicator bars in the on position. Switches are tagged for navigational lights, anchor lights, bilge pump and aerator pump. In-line fuses provide overload protection. Protected by a splash-proof marine design that is used by most top boat-builders. 

Custom Hatch $59.99- $89.99 depending on what size I need. I may could fabricate my own, but the aluminum Im sure would save weight. 
These are the same aluminum hatches used by many of the country's top boat builders. Great for building custom livewells, dry storage and putting wasted space to use. Watertight doors have a built-in drain lip with rubber gasket. Constructed of 1/8" aluminum with full-length hinges, these hatches are durable enough to walk on. Designed with room to add carpet for a customized look. Comes with plastic door pull. 

Ok so with that so far Im at $1018. I could cut some of that out Im sure, but that was my first guess list I made.


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## RStewart (Feb 19, 2009)

on the livewell, i would go straight thru fimshmatepro.com. you can get a bigger livewell for less. www.fishmatepro.com


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## cybereyes (Feb 19, 2009)

stew6371 said:


> on the livewell, i would go straight thru fimshmatepro.com. you can get a bigger livewell for less. https://www.fishmatepro.com



Thanks for the find, but it seems they are about the same or more. Not sure on the quality though, they may be better there. Still looking. 

The one at Cabellas is called Fishmate pro30 is 30" x 12" x 10" deep 2.08 cu. ft., 15.6 gallon and cost $299. The one at fishmatepro.com listed as Pro Bass - 30" Smooth Top is 30" x 12" x 10" deep, 2.08 cubic feet, 15.6 gallon and cost $305

They both have the exact same description word for word, so I'm thinking they are the same box. The only difference is that the one at fishmatepro looks to have a diamond plate top, but the name of the box is called smooth top. So Im not sure. either way I plan on covering mine with a carpeted lid. It doesn't look like they are cheaper though. They do have a much wider selection to choose from.


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## cybereyes (Feb 19, 2009)

I do however like this 

Pro Bass Bait and Fish Keeper
$319.00 

Its a little bigger at 38 inches long for a little more and the one you may have been looking at was this one. 

Pro Bass Tournament Series - 40" Smooth Top
$289.00 

Its actually 40 inches long for $289 and has a removeable seperator. This might actually be the one for me because it looks like the other one they are charging you for the diamond plate top yet its still called smooth top. Dont get that one. Anyway, at 40 inches this is actually a bigger box for $10 bucks cheaper.


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## Brine (Feb 19, 2009)

Not that this is the right solution for you, but here is what I currently use.












Those 30 gallon coolers go on sale at Walmart at least twice a year. I think I paid $45 for it a couple years ago. They come in Green or White. 

The pump in the cooler just gets dropped overboard to fill up the cooler, then placed inside and used as an aerator. At the end of the day, the spraybar is placed outside and the water gets pumped out. No holes required in the boat, and any remaining water in the cooler can just be dumped out by taking out the cooler. 

The lexan was leftover from a job at work, and I used extra fuel line to wrap the inside edge. It lifts straight out when needed.


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## Brine (Feb 19, 2009)

Just checked, they are $52 Retal.


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## cybereyes (Feb 19, 2009)

That looks like a pretty nice setup Brine, I think I would prefer to go the extra mile on this one and install a permanent job built into my deck though. I was thinking however of getting one of those large coolers and building a pre made hole in the deck somewhere in the middle of the boat to slide the cooler right into. It could act as a seat/cooler. I have lots of ideas running through my head though. HOPEFULLY this weekend I'm going to start stage one by replacing my transom and painting the boat, and maybe taking some measurements for the wood. Then I will probably order a livewell so I can cut the right size hole for it. I plan on either putting it right in front or right behind the front bench seat and incorporated into the deck.


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## Brine (Feb 19, 2009)

cybereyes said:


> That looks like a pretty nice setup Brine, I think I would prefer to go the extra mile on this one and install a permanent job built into my deck though. I was thinking however of getting one of those large coolers and building a pre made hole in the deck somewhere in the middle of the boat to slide the cooler right into. It could act as a seat/cooler. I have lots of ideas running through my head though. HOPEFULLY this weekend I'm going to start stage one by replacing my transom and painting the boat, and maybe taking some measurements for the wood. Then I will probably order a livewell so I can cut the right size hole for it. I plan on either putting it right in front or right behind the front bench seat and incorporated into the deck.



Yep, I've seen a few folks take the lid off of these and make them permanent.


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## BLK fisher (Feb 19, 2009)

Welcome to the site. Alot of good ideas here.


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## RStewart (Feb 19, 2009)

cybereyes said:


> I do however like this
> 
> Pro Bass Bait and Fish Keeper
> $319.00
> ...



the pro bass tourney livewell is the one i was talking about. bigger for less money.


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## cybereyes (Mar 26, 2009)

Ok I have finished phase one, replacing the transom and painting the boat, I have also begun phase two of cutting out the plywood to make the floors and the deck. I have to water treat it next and finish cutting the back portion where the motor is going to go and then cut out all the holes for the seat mounts and storage, then I'm going to start wiring it and finally putting on the carpet and mount all the accessories. I will post pics in the next few days. Right now I'm trying to figure out how to bolt the seat posts down and make them solid.


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## MikeA57 (Mar 26, 2009)

PIX, PIX, PIX!!!!


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## ford4x4dad (Mar 26, 2009)

WOW!!!!! :shock: can't help you with mods but that is a short barge!!!! never seen one, really cool!!!!


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## cybereyes (Mar 29, 2009)

These are the pics so far. I still have to cut out the holes for the seat mounts and the storage bins, then I have to wire everything up for the batteries. Oh and I still have to brace all the flooring in, so far I have just cut out the blanks and set them in the boat for fitting. Once all that is done it will be time for some carpet. Oh and I have to cut holes and run hoses for the live well too.


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## cybereyes (Mar 29, 2009)

ford4x4dad said:


> WOW!!!!! :shock: can't help you with mods but that is a short barge!!!! never seen one, really cool!!!!




Short?? Well its 14 feet, and 6 feet wide at its widest.


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## MikeA57 (Apr 1, 2009)

Thanks for the pix cybereyes!! The reason I am interested in this thread is because that is just like my boat (1448 Lowe Big Jon), except mine has a livewell in the front bench seat. I'm working on the trailer now but will be resurrecting her soon so my boys and I can go fishing. You've got a nice looking layout there. I especially like the decking you did at the back of it where the gas tank and batteries go. (at least, that's the way my dad had it set up but he didn't have that area decked.) 
Once I get it back from over at my Mother-in-law's place I'll take some pictures of it and post.

Mike

PS: Ford4X4dad, you're right she kind of is like a barge; she's got a pretty rough ride on choppy water but she's a strong, wide, high sided boat and she works great!! Very stable.


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## cybereyes (Apr 5, 2009)

Here is where I'm at so far right now. Its coming along nicely. Almost to the wiring part. Oh boy.


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## cybereyes (Apr 5, 2009)

A couple more


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## MikeA57 (Apr 6, 2009)

That looks real good cybereyes!!! How did your brace the rear deck? Is it just a lip across the transom or did you brace it downt he sides too? Did you run a center brace down it? How are the hatches going to open? 

I was going through my mind Saturday evening of how I would like to do my back deck and I finally arrived at 2 separate hatches like yours instead of a single long one to access the gas tanks, battery and drain plug. I tried to visualize how the openings would work and a long single one would have to have the hinge towards the front of the boat, which means I'd have to be reaching over the hatch to put the gas tanks/battery in the boat unless it's still on the trailer. If a double hatch is used, the hinge could be on the outside near the gunnels and flip up and out of the way. If the boat is on the trailer easy access would be available from the back of the boat. Hinges to the center would work too, but not as well in my mind. The benefit of that would be easy access from the side or the rear but I could also see them getting in the way of the rear seat set in the middle since they would be opened to the center.


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## cybereyes (Apr 6, 2009)

I haven't done any bracing yet actually. That is my next step. First I wanted to have all the pieces cut and carpeted so that I can place my accessories like the trolling motor etc to the top and know what my bracing had to work around. Everything right now is like a bunch of puzzle pieces. When I do the bracing I plan on bracing that entire section between the two hatches in front of the motor, and of course along the sides and rear of the boat. The only issue I will have is where that gas tank sets. There isn't a whole lot of room to brace in the front or rear, because the gas tank sits literally pefect in that hole. I don't think it will be that big of a deal though considering the entire deck is resting on the boats built in bench seat as well as the tops of the boats ribs/bracing that runs along the floor and up the sides of the boat, and I don't think I will be doing a whole lot of standing all the back there unless its right in the center. The battery side will be much better braced as well since I will have more room. 

The hatches are going to open from front to rear. I thought about it too and my best idea was to have them open from front to rear so that I could access them easily from inside the boat and from the sides of the boat. This whole thing has been a learn as I go process though since I'm not really much of a carpenter, I'm just good with my hands and I take my time. Oh and I have a lot of tools lol. My biggest obstacle right now is trying to figure out the livewell thing. I thought I had everything for it, but I think I'm going to need more stuff than what came in the kit, so that I can have an overflow and a drain. 

I'm also slightly concerned about weight. I'm adding a lot of wood, plus the live well, and all the bracing. I used thinner plywood where I could, but all the upper deck is the thickest I could find so make it sturdy. The boat is really wide and deep, so I'm hoping that makes up for it. The previous owner said it was very stable when in the water and even with his son right up on the edge it didn't tip at all. I've added a lot since then of course, but I think it should be ok. Time will tell. I have bad dreams that after weeks of pouring my time and money into it, I will drop it in the water and when I get in the boat see water coming over the edge lol.


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## MikeA57 (Apr 6, 2009)

That is a VERY stable boat, I can attest to that. It rolls and it rides hard in choppy water but I've NEVER felt like it was anywhere near tipping.

I've thought about the weight issue too as my Dad used 3/4" plywood for the deck in my boat when he originally put it together. As I thought about it, I wondered why. The front deck only extended beyond the main aluminum deck about 12 - 15 inches. It seems to me that he could have taken 1/2" plywood and layed it over the deck and extended it to the point he wanted the new deck to end but then he could have put 2 layers of it in the area that isn't laying directly on the deck and had just as strong of a deck. The second layer would be put underneath the first one. Is there some reason this wouldn't work for the rear deck as well? You'd be saving a little bit of weight anyway. (Yeah, I know you've already got yours cut and everything, I'm just thinking out loud here...)

I didn't even consider the hatches opening to the back because I figured the outboard would be too far forward and get in the way and they wouldn't stay open. I don't have my boat at my house right now to check that out, that was just my thinking. That might be the way to go though.


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## cybereyes (Apr 6, 2009)

Yeah I guess you could layer the parts that hang over. I never really thought about it though at the time. The only thing is, with the thicker plywood, you are getting some support from the plywood itself, and then you put the bracing underneath. if you just added another 1/2 inch piece underneath that one section it would technically be thicker, but you wouldn't have any extra support from the plywood itself. Right now I can nearly stand on the thick plywood without any support underneath at all, which I like. Once its braced it will be very sturdy.


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## baptistpreach (Apr 6, 2009)

I think you'll be just fine when it comes to weight. I love what you've done with the boat, it looks just awesome. When he said you had a short barge, I think the emphasis is on the word _barge_, he was saying it was as wide as a barge, just shorter! I agree, great boat, and I love the work you've done. I think you and I are pretty similar because I'd describe my skills just like you, I just try and take my time, and figure it out! Great work, and I love the color of your boat! Did you replace your transom? If so, did you have to re-rivet the braces? Thanks again.


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## cybereyes (Apr 7, 2009)

Yes I did replace the transom, but I didn't use rivets to do it. I just used stainless steel bolts and nylon locking nuts and lots of marine sealant. I think I have some pictures of what it looked like on the first page, and you can see what it looks like now on this page. It turned out very well, but was a lot of work. Mainly because of those two arms bracing the transom that you see in the floor of the boat. So I had to replace all of those rivets too with the same bolts and sealant which went right through the bottom of the boat. When I got finished I took a dremel and cut off the excess bolt that was sticking up inside the boat and on the back of the transom so it's all even and flush. I think it turned out pretty good.


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## cybereyes (Apr 7, 2009)

Actually I went back and looked, all of the new transom pics are on the third page as well as the beginning stages of my deck before I cut the holes out and put the carpet on.


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## cybereyes (Apr 12, 2009)

Almost done. This is basically what it will look like. I still have to plumb and wire up the live well, and route all the wires to the batteries, install an onboard battery charger, instal an inverter and one of those plenko or whatever its called things that allow you to switch between batteries. Oh and the deck around the live well and the cooler still has to be braced. I have to do that once all the wires are ran.


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## Macgyver (Apr 13, 2009)

cybereyes said:


>



I would ditch that plastic clamp and put a real hose clamp (stainless) on instead. I also opted for a shut off valve , just in case.


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## CowboyHokie (Apr 14, 2009)

Where did you order your double door hatch? Dimensions? Also - does it have storage bins inside or just open?

btw -Nice looking ride you've got there....


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## cybereyes (Apr 14, 2009)

I may replace that plastic one with a metal one, but its pretty darn tight now the way it is. I doubt I could even get the hose off without the clamp if I tried without ruining the hose. The valve does sound like a good idea though. 




> Where did you order your double door hatch? Dimensions? Also - does it have storage bins inside or just open?



I didn't order them, I just made them with a tape measure, drill, jigsaw, and a chalk line. I thought about ordering them, but never did because I didn't know the exact dimensions until I got all the wood laid out in the boat and had it braced. Once I got that far I still needed to cut out the holes in order to put a pre fab hatch in there, so instead I just put the cutouts back in there with a pair of hinges and a handle that I placed in using a hole saw. Its not as clean as I would have liked, so I may still go back later and order the hatches, but I don't know. The hard part was finding something with the same dimensions as I had. They all were specific sizes and none of them fit what I needed. I needed to find someone to customize the size based on MY dimensions, but I haven't found that yet. I will be looking for some work arounds, but I don't know. Right now I'm fairly satisfied with what I got. Plus I have already spent more money that I should have, and I just want it to be done so that I can use the boat. Me and my GF were both like we don't know if we will even want to go fishing by the time all of it is done. We are usually exhausted after a weekend of working on it and just need a break. No kidding we have spent the last few weekends from about 10 am until 6 or 7 that evening working on it, saturday and sunday. This last week I actually had some extra days off so we spent about 3 days of doing that. A lot of it is not exactly hard, its just time consuming, and I have to think everything out very carefully so I can cut down on the number of times I have to remove something to recut it because I didn't account for something I should have. 

Its been a lot of fun seeing it transform, and I doubt I will ever get rid of this boat now, but I'm not sure I would want to do this again. I'm generally the kind of person that over compensates for everything and has to make sure its perfect, which causes me a lot of work. :lol: I will be glad when its done. Oh and as far as storage bins. In the back I left it open. There is a lot of bracing to the sides and around the edges, so its basically a box in there anyway. The front I had originally planned on buying a plastic storage bin and cutting it height wise to make it fit, but once I got to that point it just seemed to easy to cut some thin 1/2 plywood I had left over and make walls for the cutout, which you see in the last picture. The other side will have two batteries in it. I also bought a large, the biggest they had, cranking battery the other day, which will serve as the the motor in the backs battery as well as the batter I will have my inverter connected to. So I will have 3 batteries all connected to an onboard charger.


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## CowboyHokie (Apr 14, 2009)

How about this hatch - did you make this one?


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## cybereyes (Apr 14, 2009)

Ahh, well that is my livewell, and no I didn't make that. I just cut the hole for it, and will be hopefully plumbing it up if I can figure it out. I got it from www.fishmatepro.com


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## baptistpreach (Apr 15, 2009)

Awesome job! How much was your battery gauge? I love the detail!


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## cybereyes (Apr 15, 2009)

I think those were about 12 bucks a piece at cabellas. Thanks.


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## CowboyHokie (Apr 15, 2009)

Baptistpreach, once I saw that battery gauge, I had to have one too...






But Cyber, we're not your wife, so you don't need to *"discount"* your expenses here... 

$26.99 each


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## cybereyes (Apr 15, 2009)

ack, did I pay that much? I bought two of them as well. I put all the prices of most of the things I bought or was going to buy on page 2. I thought that was the price I paid for both of them.


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## cybereyes (Jun 14, 2009)

Its all done, this is the completed boat. Thanks too all those who helped out with suggestions and advice. 






Rear Deck
















Back wall with inverter and battery gauge. 






On board battery charger for 3 batteries.






Front deck with trolling motor port, battery gauge, and switch panel for the Nav lights, bilge pump , and aerator. 
















Access panel to input hose for live well and battery charger wires. I had to make this after the fact when one of the batteries wasn't charging. It turned out to be an in line fuse that went bad. 






2nd battery compartment with two batteries, perko switch, and trolling motor circuit breaker.






Overflow and bilge pump exits. 






Live well with bilge pump. I will need to move the pump to the other side of the livewell, or possibly try and move one of the batteries. It seems the boat leans slightly to one side because all three batteries are on the right side of the boat, so when the bilge pump is on it doesn't want to pump out the last bit of water. 































So there it is guys. I couldn't have done it with out this site and lots of help from you all. Thanks again. If anyone has any questions about this mod that I can help you with on your own boat, feel free to ask and I will do my best to help.


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## ben2go (Jun 14, 2009)

Great build.Lets go fishing.


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## bAcKpAiN (Jun 14, 2009)

Very nice boat you got there!


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## Henry Hefner (Jun 14, 2009)

Nice job on the boat, and nice job with picture documentation!


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## MikeA57 (Jun 15, 2009)

Excellent job cybereyes!! I will be using some of your ideas when I finally get my Lowe 1448 back on the trailer and back to my house. Thanks for the pictures and the explanations.


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## daniel_loz (Jun 15, 2009)

Do you have any pics of how the trailer is setup? I have a 1448 jon that is the process of getting decked (although not quite as extensively as yours - it looks amazing btw!), but before I get to the decks I am rebuilding the trailer that the PO had setup pretty weird. I just want to see how other people are setting their trailers up for a flat bottom jon of this size/weight.


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## cybereyes (Jun 15, 2009)

Thanks everyone. I checked and I don't have any pics of just the trailer. I can try and take some pics underneath the boat maybe, or at best the next time I go out I can take some pics after I launch. Oh and our first camping trip, the wife pulled this fish in, her first big fish.


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## daniel_loz (Jun 15, 2009)

No biggie. Im trying to find a visual reference as to how I need to have my trailer set up.


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## russ010 (Jun 15, 2009)

How do you have your livewell set up as far as filling, recirculating and emptying? 

I just ordered a FishMate Pro, and I'm trying to see how I want to do it... 

Do you have a pump at the transom for filling?
Where is your overflow tube?
Does your bilge pump inside circulate and pump out? How do you have it set to do both because I only see the line you ran out the bottom which I would assume runs to the aerator on the opposite side.

Your mod is great by the way - did it add a lot of weight by using 2x4 bracing?


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## cybereyes (Jun 15, 2009)

Do you have a pump at the transom for filling?
Yes, if you look at the deck pictures in the back where I have the hatches open, you can just see the pump back there, I have a hose that runs all the way up and ends at that yellow pvc pipe you see sticking out, it also has a valve on it. You can see it well in the picture of the fish. 

Where is your overflow tube?
The over flow is in the top right corner in the picture, you can see a black outlet, the hose is connected on the back side and goes out one of the white outlets on the outside of the boat. 

Does your bilge pump inside circulate and pump out? How do you have it set to do both because I only see the line you ran out the bottom which I would assume runs to the aerator on the opposite side.

No the line that runs out the bottom, leads to another hole in the side of the boat, if you look I have a picture of them both, one hole for the overflow, and one for the bilge. The bilge pumps it out that hole, it actually pumps faster than the other one can pump it in. 

Your mod is great by the way - did it add a lot of weight by using 2x4 bracing?

Yeah I would say it did, not sure how much, but the boat is really wide, and seems very stable still yet. I am thinking about replacing all of the decking in the future with some sort of aluminum, like a diamond plate, but with carpet on it. and maybe even go with some still braces instead, not sure yet, just depends on if I see something and say wow that would make a really good deck for my boat. Its been a real PAIN in the ASS though. It was fun, dont get me wrong, but we put a lot of work into and were more than ready to get it done.


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## baptistpreach (Jun 15, 2009)

I agree about it being a lot of work! I FINALLY got my custom letters to put my name and registration #'s on my boat (only took them about 6 weeks!), and I'm having a hard time bringing myself to do it! It also isn't helping that my transducer broke so every time I think about going out, I keep thinking, well, I don't have my FF now.... Anyhow, I love your work, looks really good. Did you ever get a total on what you spent? I'm thinking you went over $1000, but did you ever add it up? Really professional, and really sharp!


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## cybereyes (Jun 16, 2009)

Yeah, I probably spent about 1200 or so, but that is including the new trolling motor, battery charger, and the inverter, livewell, etc, all that stuff probably put me at about 1200-1300.


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## russ010 (Jun 16, 2009)

one more livewell question.. do you just keep circulating fresh water in from the rear and letting the rest go out the overflow?

I probably read through your answers too fast, so I might find the answer again when I slow down and reread it

nevermind.. I think I figured it out - you pump in and out and the same time... I think I'm going to do basically the same thing except put another aerator pipe inside attached to the bilge with a check valve so that I can ciruclate the inside water and pump it out


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## cybereyes (Jun 16, 2009)

Yes, Ive been pumping it out and refilling at the same time. I can't do it continuously though because it pumps out faster than it pumps in, so I let it get really full and then start pumping it out until I think all of the water has been replaced and then I switch them off.


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