# How I added decks, storage, and floor to Alumacraft 1442NCS



## -CN- (Jan 8, 2017)

This is my 2015 boat with Endura Max 55 electric motor. I fished it a few times to decide where I wanted everything to be. You know what these boats look like. Here it is on some of my first outings with it. Devil's Lake (Wisconsin), and Wisconsin River. My fishing partner in the back seat who has since passed away. 











Here's my buddy Steve fishing in it with me. Some girls who were floating down the river on innertubes were about to pass us.


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## -CN- (Jan 8, 2017)

I wanted enclosed storage. This boat comes with none, as the front deck is enlarged due to the lack of center bench (gives me wide-open floor space which I was after) and therefore front deck contains a foam block for flotation. I determined that I would enclose the space behind the rear bench which would also give me a rear fishing deck.
I framed it with a composite 2x4 that I acquired for free as scrap (I work for a building materials company). I painted it black so that when I open the storage hatches it has a finished look around the rim. I needed to leave the center of the deck either solid, or open, to accommodate the motor mounted there, otherwise I wouldn't be able to get the hatch open with the motor in the way. I chose to keep it enclosed, so I planned for two hinged hatches, one on each side. I made sure the openings in each would be big enough for a size 27 battery and the possible future addition of a small fuel tank. I took the boat out regularly while I was working on this, so you can see a small accessory battery which is the stock battery from one of my motorcycles, and a switch taped to the transom which was temporary for my front navigation light.


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## -CN- (Jan 8, 2017)

What I used for the deck is 1/2 cdx plywood sealed with Helmsman spar urethane (if I did it again, I would use 3/8" to reduce weight, as it already sits on a solid platform. I would just reinforce the bottom side of the hatches so that the could be stood on.) I did the front and rear decks at the same time but I'm just gonna show you the rear one right now. The front one took more work.

I test-fitted the plywood, leaving a 1/8" gap on the sides and back for the carpet that I would add. On one side of the motor, I left a larger gap at the rear for my motor cable and possible future addition of a fuel line.






I then measured for the hatches and cut them out with a jig saw.


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## -CN- (Jan 8, 2017)

I carpeted the deck using Marine Carpeting from Menards (a regional Home-Improvement store like Home Depot) and an all-purpose exterior carpet adhesive. I stapled the back.






I also trimmed 1/4" off of each side of the pieces I cut out for that hatch doors and carpeted those too. I screwed the deck down onto the boat using 1-1/2" stainless screws that I pre-drilled into the aluminum. The screw heads completely disappeared into the carpet. I attached the hatches with stainless steel hinges (yes, I added handles later).










People always ask about carpeting and what is good and what isn't. This carpeting was cheap (around 50 cents a square foot on sale) and at the time of this posting, went through two long seasons of fishing, parked outside, and still looks new.


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## -CN- (Jan 8, 2017)

Ever wonder what it looks like under the front deck? I did too, and was gonna find out the hard way - by cutting a storage-hatch-size-hole in it! You can see the block of foam which I found to be surprisingly small for the amount of space in the cavity. 










I had to cut the foam block apart with a knife to get it out of the hole (don't worry, I added an even higher-volume of foam under the floor which I'll show you in a bit.)


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## -CN- (Jan 8, 2017)

Under here there is a lot of space. I store life jackets, throwable cushions, a small cooler, and is now also the compartment where I have my second battery hooked up. Same plywood carpeted deck and hinges.






















That's a rough edge around that hatch opening - I used thin 1" plastic outside corner molding that I mitered in the corners to trim around that metal opening and attached it with construction adhesive and some screws.


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## -CN- (Jan 8, 2017)

Looking at my photobucket account, that's all I can post until I retrieve the rest of the pictures off of my computer at work!
In-floor rod storage, tackle storage, deck rod storage, LED interior lighting, dual-battery installation, pedestal seating, and more to come!


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## The10Man (Jan 8, 2017)

-CN- said:


> Looking at my photobucket account, that's all I can post until I retrieve the rest of the pictures off of my computer at work!
> In-floor rod storage, tackle storage, deck rod storage, LED interior lighting, dual-battery installation, pedestal seating, and more to come!




Looks great so far! I'm looking forward to seeing the additional modifications and images.


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## -CN- (Jan 25, 2017)

My front hatch trim and battery.






In the battery box cover, I drilled a 7/8" hole in three of the four corners to install switches. The switches operate my LED marine vessel lights and my interior LED lighting. You can see one of the interior lighting strips on the side near the front deck in the previous picture. 






Here's what the lights look like at night.


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## -CN- (Jan 25, 2017)

Now the heavy thinking began. I like my floor space maximized and don't want to narrow it with compartments. But I do want enclosed rod storage. Some people deck these boats all the way to the top, front to back. I like the high decks front and rear, but like a place to stand where I'm "in" the boat. I could also mount a seat and keep the center of gravity lower if I have a floor. My decision was to put rod storage in the floor. I needed to build up the floor to create a cavity underneath. A floor joist system was in order. To keep it light, I used the TJI floor joist principal crossed with a floor truss principal. I used 1x2s for the top and bottom chord, and 2x2 "posts" positioned above each floor rib to carry the load. I tested the strength of the 1x2 at this small spacing (less than two feet between floor ribs) by standing directly on it and it doesn't even flex at all. With a plywood floor attached to it I knew it would be absolutely solid. 











I spaced them unevenly due to how I planned my in-floor-storage layout. I wanted two front-to-back hatches side-by-side on starboard, and knew that I need "bare" floor space on port so that I have a place to put stuff to get it off of the hatches for when I need to get into them. The bare floor space is also where I would mount a pedestal seat in the front. I didn't want a pedestal seat on my front deck because it would be in the way for moving around up there while fishing. My rear seat would be on the rear deck starboard side to drive the boat, and the front seat would be offset the equal distance from the center to the port side which would give me an equal weight balance with two people in the boat. Here's the joists with minimum material as possible and my 1x2 ledger boards on front and rear benches.


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## -CN- (Jan 25, 2017)

I built up a support platform that would be covered by the floor for the seat pedestal to mount into with lags.


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## -CN- (Jan 25, 2017)

Then I cut 1/2" CDX plywood to fit. It was two separate sections front and back. Two reasons behind why I cut it to fit inside the ribs rather than notching out for the ribs. First off, the boat measures over 48" to the outside of the ribs, and less than 48" to the inside. So this works out for cutting plywood and running it the long way rather than having to run it cross ways and buy twice as much. Second reason is because of the difficulty I would have cutting out all of those notches and getting them in the right place. I would fill in the space between the ribs with blocking (pictures to come).


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## -CN- (Jan 25, 2017)

When I put in the blocking, I had to run it through a table saw to rip a corner off so that it matched the angle of my boat's wall. I attached it to the edge of the plywood with screws, and used 1x2 blocking underneath to mount it to as well. You can see the 2x2s ripped into a triangular shape in the second picture.


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## -CN- (Jan 25, 2017)

Front and back portions of the floor fitted with blocking between the ribs and my storage hatch holes cut out. I then sealed the floor on all sides with the Helmsman spar urethane, 3 coats. 
I had bought the tan-colored carpet on clearance and realized I would be short on carpet to do the floor. It was out of stock when I needed more, so I bought the same carpet in the charcoal color in the quantity I would need to do the floor and the floor hatches. I do wish I had done the front and rear decks in charcoal now as well, but does not look stupid the way it is. 

The two long hatches are for the rods and I utilized the space next to it by cutting out a storage hatch there as well.


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## -CN- (Jan 25, 2017)

Don't worry, I cut some 1.5 inch Owens Corning insulation to go between the ribs under the floor joist system before I screwed the floor together. If you haven't noticed already I not only sealed the floor joists with spar urethane, but I also painted them black. This way, when you open the storage hatches there's a finished black rim and black interior. 

You can also see that I ripped down some 1/4" underlayment and applied it to the sides of the joists where the hatches would be. This fully enclosed the storage spaces by giving them "walls".


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## dearl (Jan 25, 2017)

Good use for wasted space under the floor, good thinking.


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## -CN- (Jan 25, 2017)

This 14 ft boat measures just shy of 7 ft between the front and rear benches. My rod length of choice is 7' and I have a few 7'6" rods. How do I make them fit? Simple - I planned for this and used inspiration from factory rod storage lockers that I've seen in many boats. They have a hole or a "tunnel" for the rod tips to slide into and the hatch area is only 3, 4, 5, or 6 feet long or more. I decided that 1.5" PVC would do the trick, so I measured the O.D. and used a hole saw to cut out for three of them in a piece of 1x6 which I would use for the front wall of each rod storage locker. I traced the hole locations onto the rear wall of the front bench so that I could tunnel through that, and cut out those holes as well. Once I put it all together, my rod tips can slide all the way up into the front bench area (which is now a wide-open storage compartment.) I'm guessing at least an 8 ft rod would fit in there. 

You can see the PVC holes in this picture of the floor after it's complete (the front seat pedestal isn't screwed down yet). I used left-over tan carpet and laid a piece in the bottom of each rod locker and the storage hatch as well. Some tackle, bug spray, pliers, rope, rod holders, bait, and even a life jacket fit under the floor in that storage space. I can also carry 8 rods below deck.


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## -CN- (Jan 25, 2017)

Lastly, I stood up on the front and rear decks and took some pictures of the finished boat!


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## -CN- (Jan 25, 2017)

Later, I picked up this 8hp Mercury from a coworker for $500. 






Now I'm going to be working on moving my trolling motor to the front. I mounted the gas motor offset from the center for now so that the troller fits back there with it. Works good with this low-hp motor. Boat still planes out! Also makes it easier to steer the tiller due to the motor's position further from my seat. I have a rear size 24 battery, and a front size 27 battery, and I run the trolling motor off of the front battery with cables that I ran under the floor ribs, and my lights and anything else runs off of the rear battery. I installed two terminals onto the battery box in the back that I connect those cables to and my trolling motor cables. If that front battery ever goes dead, I can very quickly just unscrew the trolling motor from those terminals and connect them to the rear battery as a back-up. I still mostly fish no-wake or electric-only lakes. So often times I have the Mercury removed from the boat. Still have oars and a paddle too so I'm not afraid to go all day on electric power.


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## kmfw160 (Jan 25, 2017)

WOW, she is looking awesome!


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## derekdiruz (Jan 25, 2017)

I love the floor idea. I will be taking this idea in some form or fashion for my 1542!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## hbouldin1216 (Jan 26, 2017)

This is still the best way I've seen to mount a transom trolling motor up on the bow. Once my broken leg heals, I plan to do the same on for mine, and will be installing a plug type connector to the front and rear battery compartments so that I can easily move the motor fore and aft as needed. 

https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=42074


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## abevelheimer (Jan 29, 2017)

I like that rod holder idea and you can put a lock and hasp on it as well if you want to leave your gear in it overnight or some sort of locking mechanism to keep thieves at bay if you park it outside ect.


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## -CN- (Jan 29, 2017)

abevelheimer said:


> I like that rod holder idea and you can put a lock and hasp on it as well if you want to leave your gear in it overnight or some sort of locking mechanism to keep thieves at bay if you park it outside ect.


That is true and there is one trip I went on with a friend where I considered the need to have those compartments locked. Even thought about a bar that goes crossways over all three hatches and locks down at both sides. I would want it completely removable so that it's not a tripping hazard like a hasp would be. An internal cabinet lock with just the key hole exposed would be the way to go. I don't ever leave my gear in my boat overnight unless it's in my yard and I know that I'm using the same gear the next day. Otherwise it goes in the house, in the car, or even in the hotel room.


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## Kier (Feb 4, 2017)

Sweet looking boat! I really like the rod storage in the floor.


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## johnnybassboat (Feb 4, 2017)

Love the in floor rod storage idea, wish I would have thought of that when I did my 1648. Looks like a great boat for the smaller lakes and the Wisconsin river. Maybe I will see ya around. Good luck and tight lines.


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## mrdrh99 (Feb 4, 2017)

Same as everyone, I think the floor rod storage is genius! I literally just stripped everything out of my boat so perfect timing!


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## surfman (Apr 13, 2017)

Is any of that wood sealed? In Florida, it wouldn't last a year.


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## -CN- (Apr 13, 2017)

It is all sealed with three coats of spar urethane.

For anyone wanting in-floor rod storage, I'd like to post a disclaimer: while I'm pleased with the finished look of what I have done, practicality has made me want to redo it. Please analyze your process from loading to launching to fishing before you decide to do it. While I really appreciate being able to store all my rods below deck (up to 10 of them with this design) I find it to be an inconvenience getting to them while on the water. I want my rods out and handy while fishing, and this scenario wastes a bunch of empty storage space once I make them quickly accessable by pulling them all out and covering the hatches with gear.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk


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## surfman (Apr 17, 2017)

Yea I was wondering about access once on the water and full of gear and fishermen.


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## -CN- (Apr 17, 2017)

Depending on if a buddy wants to buy this boat or not (he does, just probably doesn't want to give me what I have to have for it), I will be redoing it for myself. 
I'm going to lower the floor back down as low as possible and use just a lightweight material to support carpet over the foam that I pack between the ribs. Will extend the front deck rearward to create enough space for a dedicated tackle storage hatch and a base for a pedestal seat. Then behind that, a mid-height "step" that contains my batteries. I will put rod storage on the starboard side, even top height to the front and rear decks. Then, depending on how I like the amount of floor space that remains, I may extend the rear deck forward as well, again, to put my rear battery in. 
Getting a bow-mount trolling motor - probably a 24v 70lb, and a new Tohatsu 9.8hp. I might go back to all-electric though and just put a second 70lb 24v transom mount on. I'm worried about adding the weight of 3 extra batteries over what I'm running now (one front one back - would need to go to 2 front and then add 2 more in rear for all-electric 24v setup.) Two extra batteries plus the weight of a trolling motor (about 30lbs) is about 75lbs heavier than an outboard and a tank of fuel. Can't imagine I'd save 75lbs on my build though my intention is to make it even lighter.


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## -CN- (Jun 28, 2019)

I done redid it. Or did redone it. :mrgreen: 

An idea I had to make this boat very light was to use foam panels for everything unless it absolutely needs to support weight on its own. I discussed my idea a long time back in this thread here: https://tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=42872

To much skepticism, I gave it a try. And it works awesome. All my decking and floor, since it is basically over the top of the factory aluminum decks and benches, is foam insulation panels that weigh nearly nothing. The carpet that I wrapped them in weighs more than the panels. The only plywood on the boat is the hatch lids. There is minor framing done with 1x2s.

Under one hatch up front is a cheapo styrofoam cooler that I custom built the compartment around. I insulated the compartment with 2" foam and then I can insert the cooler right in there. I cut a small hatch opening into the main top hatch just to throw the fish in without opening the whole top. I can open the large hatch and pull the cooler completely out to clean it. I do not use a livewell, the fish go directly on ice. 

I have a front battery and a rear battery, and they are connected in parallel. The front battery moves to the back (offsets the weight of the gas engine for better weight distribution) when I go all-electric. The wiring that connects the batteries together is installed under the floor so that same wiring doubles as bow-mounted trolling motor power when both batteries are in the back. The bow-mounted motor is an upgrade over my front-mounted transom motor. 

Lately I have been kind of a hermit who just works, sleeps, and fishes. I tinker with the boat but don't ever think of taking any time to get some pictures along the way. I took this one picture when I put the new Yamaha F25 on there. You can kinda see some of the boat's interior. It isn't done yet. I am in the process of lining both sides with carpeted walls and installing my new switch cluster in there on the port side. Next to it will also be a ram mount to put a second Lowrance in the back. 

So, I should probably take some pictures of each feature since I know that descriptive writing is boring. #-o 

My favorite thing about my boat is this new engine. I cannot say enough good things about it. It is absolutely incredible in every way.


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## -CN- (Aug 6, 2019)

Progress pictures...sorry, I don't have any. #-o 

But here are some pictures of the semi-completed boat. Nearly every surface you see other than the storage lids are 3/4" or 1" foam insulation in lieu of plywood.


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## TMO8853 (Aug 6, 2019)

Great job man! Boat looks fantastic


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## LDUBS (Aug 6, 2019)

-CN- said:


> Progress pictures...sorry, I don't have any. #-o
> 
> But here are some pictures of the semi-completed boat. Nearly every surface you see other than the storage lids are 3/4" or 1" foam insulation i lieu of plywood.



I agree with TMO -- you boat looks fantastic. Using sheet foam for the floor/deck membranes is pretty cool. I wonder how much weight you saved with your method.


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## jethro (Aug 7, 2019)

Love the design and the little step up to the forward casting platform. Looks really clean and well done. Bravo =D>


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## -CN- (Aug 7, 2019)

LDUBS said:


> Using sheet foam for the floor/deck membranes is pretty cool. I wonder how much weight you saved with your method.


1/2" plywood would have been minimum for my decks and walls. A sheet is approximately 40 lbs. There is the equivalent of about 3 sheets between the decks, floor, and walls. It would have been 120 lbs. of wood.

In contrast, 1" foam boards are under a pound a sheet, for a savings of ~117 lbs. Not to mention there is no 3-day sealing process involved like plywood and no added weight of the sealer. 

The majority of the weight in this boat is framing which was done with 1x2s. The framing to the extend that I used it would not have been needed if I had used plywood, as plywood is structural. There are about three 8ft 1x2s used in this boat at about 2 lbs a piece. That brings my weight savings down by 6 lbs. to about 111 lbs. 

Plywood was still used for hatch lids so that is a wash. Same amount of carpeting was still used. I believe the weight of the carpet in this boat outweighs everything else except for maybe the combined weight of the hatch lids.


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## -CN- (Aug 7, 2019)

jethro said:


> Love the design and the little step up to the forward casting platform. Looks really clean and well done. Bravo =D>


That is a battery compartment. I relocate one of my two size 27 batteries from the rear to that front-ish area whenever I install my new F25 gas outboard to offset some of the weight forward. This also provides space for my fuel tank in the back. 

That new Yamaha F25 is my favorite thing that I have ever purchased for my boat. It is fast, quiet, sips fuel, starts with one very easy pull, compact, and is light. I can lift it on and off of my boat alone.


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## onthewater102 (Aug 7, 2019)

The carpet is enough to distribute the load so you can stand on it without dimpling the foam sheets? That's awesome!


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## jethro (Aug 7, 2019)

onthewater102 said:


> The carpet is enough to distribute the load so you can stand on it without dimpling the foam sheets? That's awesome!



I'm surprised at that as well, but I suppose it's possible? I'd be worried about dropping a set of pliers and god forbid I drop a downrigger weight.


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## akboats (Aug 7, 2019)

I like the boat man. can not wait till i can get me one and work on it. but at the moment its bills and planning a wedding.


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## LDUBS (Aug 8, 2019)

If I drop a pair of pliers, it is guaranteed they will land in the water instead of on the deck! Hahaha


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## -CN- (Aug 8, 2019)

jethro said:


> onthewater102 said:
> 
> 
> > The carpet is enough to distribute the load so you can stand on it without dimpling the foam sheets? That's awesome!
> ...


You guys have any experience with the density of closed cell foam board insulation?

In another thread before building this boat I mentioned that I experimented with the material with the intention of utilizing it anywhere I could. I placed a sheet flat on the floor at my place of business in a high traffic area and walked on it every chance I got. It is supportive when there is flat supporting structure such as a deck or floor under it. I'm not spanning it any distance at all without existing or constructed support under it. You're just talking pressure that may squish the foam board. When your weight is distributed by the sole of your shoe or bare foot, or even your knee, it compresses - but not permanently. 

I would contribute some of its long-term integrity to the carpet glue that is used - it's the layering-like lamination of the foam/glue/carpet combo that makes this a functional floor sheet and I have no concerns about its durability. 

Hmm, a downrigger weight - not sure what that would do - maybe make a little dent? When dented though, the foam has been proven to flatten back out with just a little bit of time, and you can compress down around a dent with your foot to make it come back up and be flat again. 

I fish hard out of this boat 2-3 times a week. When the above pictures were taken, over 75% of the material and 100% of the high-traffic area had already been installed and in use for a year and a half. I just recently finished the sides and the battery compartment lid - which is plywood anyway. You're not looking at pictures of freshly installed experimental material. The material's ability to serve my intended function for it has already been proven to me. And it can be seen in the pictures.


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## LDUBS (Aug 8, 2019)

Shoot, I wouldn't want to drop one of my DR weights on my plywood floor much less a sheet foam one. But regardless it sounds (and looks) like your method has held up pretty good. Might be a light weight option to consider. Even if you skinned it out with thin sheeting before carpeting to give it some additional dent resistance, it would still be a significant weight savings. Definitely an "outside of the box" approach.


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## -CN- (Aug 20, 2019)

A big GRINNING factor contributed to the saved weight is the speed I'm getting out of this F25 engine. The engine is stock. Boat is decked out as shown and has 2 size 29 batteries and 3 gallons of fuel. With just my fishing gear which consists of 2 large tackle boxes, 8 fishing poles, required safety gear, mimimal tools, 1 anchor, a large cooler full of ice, and myself...29.7 mph on the GPS. :mrgreen:


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