# Schukster 1976 Lund 14



## schukster (Jan 30, 2016)

I found this 1976 Lund 14 foot boat on CL a year ago. At the time, I didn't have any plans to do any conversion. The PO had repainted the exterior in red and black. It didn't look bad from a distance but up close the paint job left something to be desired. The flooring and seats had seen better days. After finding tinboats, I spent a lot of time reviewing what others had done with their tins and decided I would try a conversion. There probably isn't much that I did that hasn't been posted before, but I want to share my project.

The 900 acre lake that I live on is going through a fish renovation. In the fall of 2012, the DNR did a 100% fish kill to get rid of the rough fish that had taken over the lake. They started a restocking program with Bluegills, perch, walleye, crappie, bass, catfish and muskies. This fishing is coming on strong. I bought this boat with the hopes of taking my grandkids fishing.






The boat came with a 9.8 Mercury 110 tiller. I wasn't sure what I bought at the time but so far its been a good running motor. The 9.8 gets me around our lake. (just not so fast).






The PO had cut out the center of the middle seat leaving the two stubs and brackets. The plan was to incorporate this into my conversion to maintain the stability that the brackets provided.



Ripping out the old flooring and seats was relatively easy. Some of the screws and bolts holding the original seat boards were a challenge. I had to bring out the big hammer  



The next step of paint removal proved to be a very time consuming project. There were multiple layers under the existing paint. I tried several different types of chemical paint strippers. The brand that Walmart carries proved to be the cheapest and it worked as well or better than more expensive brands I tried. I also used a wire wheel and an orbital sander on stubborn areas. It took quite a few applications of the chemical stripper to get through the multiple layers.






My plan was to paint the upper portions of the exterior sides and the leave the lower portion and bottom as clean bare aluminum. I spent considerable time polishing the upper section to get it ready for self-etching primer. I used Rustoleum self-etching rattle can primer on any bare metal areas before priming and painting.



On the interior prep work, I decided to remove any loose paint and to just sand the interior smooth in preparing it for paint. There were some areas where the sander got down to bare metal. I spot treated those areas with self-etching primer before applying the primer and paint.


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## Fishfreek (Jan 30, 2016)

Nice boat to begin your project with can't wait to see the progress.


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## schukster (Jan 30, 2016)

I used Rustoleum paint products for all of the painting on my project. I felt that if I prepped and followed the instructions that it would probably meet my needs. As I mentioned earlier, I used rattle can self-etching primer on any bare metal. I used 2 coats of Rustoleum's gray metal primer on top of that. The interior was Light Machine Gray. I used Rustoleum marine top coat Battleship Gray on the exterior upper section.

I live in the Midwest and I planned to either trailer or have the boat up on a lift when I wasn't using it. So far, I haven't been disappointed with the Rustoleum. Time will tell.



I taped up the exterior and applied the self-etching primer



I put two thin coats of gray primer and then the Top Coat Battleship Gray. I used a rolling and tipping method of applying the top coat. I applied the paint with a small roller and then followed up with brushing in one direction with just the tip of a small brush. I was pleased with the result. I used two coats of the top coat as well.







I primed the interior with two coats and then applied two coats the Light Machine Gray.


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## schukster (Jan 30, 2016)

The next step of the project was the framing for the flooring and decking. I decided to use wood for my framing. I used cedar 2x4 and sealed them with a couple of coats of spar urethane. For the decking I used 5/8 inch ACX plywood which I also sealed with spar urethane. I attempted to attach the framing by bolting it to the existing seat supports. I used stainless steel for all the hardware.

In order to keep the boat from getting too tipsy, I tried to keep all the flooring the casting decks as low as possible to provide a low center of gravity. There is a casting deck in the bow and also in the stern that use the same level as the original seats. The center flooring was kept as close to the boat ribs that I could.




I used a couple of angle aluminum for the lower main flooring supports that I attached to the seat supports. The lower main flooring is bolted to these angle supports.






The rest of the framing was attached by bolting the 2x4 to the splash tray and seat framing. I had to customize the back center compartment to make sure that the gas tank would fit. 

I determined where I wanted the seats to go and created the framing to hold the seat base plates. I decided to use the Attwood Swivl-ease for the 3/4 inch pin posts. I did some online searching and found the base plates with the metal bushing. I thought they would hold up better than the plastic bushings. I used two plates on the back seat. One in the middle for still fishing and one offset to the right for operating the tiller.




The framing for the main center floor was done with 2x4 laid flat to keep the center of gravity as low as I could. I made sure there was enough clearance below the flooring to mount the seat base in the center section. I allowed for the placement of a storage area in the area closest to the bow since there was around 5-6" depth that could be used. The back section of the main flooring didn't have much clearance for storage. I put flotation foam under the flooring in that area. 






The front deck framing used the front seat support. On my Lund there was also a small seat support in the bow of the boat. I built up that seat to attach the very front deck framing. 

This picture doesn't show it, but I put two seat bases in the front casting deck. One was placed where the original seat was. This allows a passenger to use that seat when the boat is moving where his feet can be down on the main floor. I placed the second one about a foot closer to the bow so that the front seat can be placed on a pedestal post for casting from the bow deck.


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## schukster (Jan 30, 2016)

Once the framing was done, the next step was to cut and install the plywood flooring and decking. As I mentioned earlier, I used 5/8" ACX plywood sealed with a couple of coats of spar urethane. I used a cardboard template for cutting the bow decking. I found that I needed to fine tune the plywood cuts multiple times before it fit like I wanted. The center flooring was basically a rectangle so that was an easy cut. The rear deck was almost a rectangle. I needed to trim a bit to make it fit by the splash tray.

I don't have very many pictures or the work in progress. Here are some pictures of how it turned out.










Once I had the decking and flooring cut, the next step was to cut the opening for the storage areas and seat bases. For storage I had three areas behind the rear seat. The center one was where the gas tank would be. There was also one on each side of the gas compartment for other storage. There was also a storage area on the center flooring just behind the front seat. The bow decking also had a fairly large storage area where I plan to put life jackets and my battery. I also used a hole saw to cut out the opening for the seat bases. It was a little nerve racking to cut the openings in the decking that I had just spent a fair amount of time fitting. It all worked out. 

I should mention I was planning on covering the flooring with a marine vinyl. In order to accommodate for the thickness of the vinyl, I trimmed the doors to the storage compartments by 3/8" all around. This allowed the doors after they were covered with the vinyl to fit properly. I found some vinyl hinges online that were considerably cheaper that what stainless steel ones cost.





The next step was to cover the decking with the marine vinyl. I did a lot of searching online and found the best deal at Defender.com. I ordered 6 yards of the 72" wide Nautolex vinyl flooring. This ended up being plenty. I also bought 1 Qt of the Nautolex #88 adhesive. One quart was not nearly enough and it was rather expensive. I ended up buying some contact glue from Menards to finish the flooring (a lot cheaper). I was concerned that the contact glue would be too unforgiving but I found that I could pull the pieces apart and realign the vinyl if needed. I think it may have been because the temperature was cool and the contact glue had not completely dried. I used a roller made out of a small paint roller with a piece of PVC pipe over the roller to roll the vinyl smooth. Anyway, it all worked out OK.










I purchased some boat numbers and a couple of Lund stickers.


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## schukster (Jan 30, 2016)

As I mentioned in my opening post. The primary reason I bought the boat was that I hoped to take my grandkids fishing.

This is what it was all about.


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## Piomarine (Jan 30, 2016)

How is the stability when standing up front? I did my 14 foot '56 Traveler very similar to yours, but I have yet to take it out on the water so I am still questioning the stability up front.

Top notch build too!!!


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## schukster (Jan 30, 2016)

Piomarine said:


> How is the stability when standing up front? I did my 14 foot '56 Traveler very similar to yours, but I have yet to take it out on the water so I am still questioning the stability up front.
> 
> Top notch build too!!!



Thanks. I am very happy with the stability. Although it was only me in the boat, I didn't feel uncomfortable or tipsy at all using the pedestal seat on the front casting deck
S


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## Androsyn (Jan 31, 2016)

Awesome! I hope the kids had a great time fishing! I think the boat turned out super nice. The vinyl was a neat touch. How did that work out?


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## schukster (Jan 31, 2016)

Androsyn said:


> Awesome! I hope the kids had a great time fishing! I think the boat turned out super nice. The vinyl was a neat touch. How did that work out?



Thanks. The kids really had fun. I think in this case, the size of the memory was inversely proportional to the size of the fish.
I'm very happy with the vinyl. Easy to clean. Not slippery and no snagged fish hooks.


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## Steve2517 (Mar 6, 2016)

Could you send me a pm if possible op. How did weight of wood work out for floatation of boat ? I like your setup very much. I have kids and like the idea of all the seating u have. Thanks for any help.


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## earl60446 (Mar 6, 2016)

Boat looks great.
How much flotation foam is in the boat now?
Tim


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## schukster (Mar 6, 2016)

earl60446 said:


> Boat looks great.
> How much flotation foam is in the boat now?
> Tim


I put the original big pieces back under the front seat and rear seats. I also put new pieces under the lower floor in front of the rear seat. Also the entire framing and deck are wood and fastened to the seat structures. I assume that the wood would have buoyancy if I was ever swamped. I live in the midwest so I only am on small inland lakes.

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## Ictalurus (Mar 7, 2016)

Schukster,

This is a real nice build man, well done sir! =D> =D> =D> =D>


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## schukster (Mar 7, 2016)

Ictalurus said:


> Schukster,
> 
> This is a real nice build man, well done sir! =D> =D> =D> =D>


Thank you. I am adding some rod holders and a bow mount trolling motor this spring. I'll post some pictures when I'm done

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## schukster (Mar 26, 2016)

I added some rod holders. For rod storage I attached the Du-Bro rings to the seat strap brackets. I also added some Cannon Downrigger Rod Holder brackets to hold rods while fishing or trolling.



I have added an electric bow trolling motor with a quick release mount. The bow bracket on my Lund was convex which arched higher than the bow shelf that I attached previously. I created a wood shim plate that I covered with left over vinyl to provide a flat surface to put the quick release tm bracket.





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## fishguymatt_ (Mar 31, 2016)

How do you like the rear (captains) seat in the middle? I am doing a similar build and have always liked the rear seat off to the side for an easy reach with my tiller arm....I would offset the front seat floor mount too to level it out... planning on putting 2 additional mounts for post type seats like you have in the front of yours.


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## schukster (Mar 31, 2016)

fishguymatt_ said:


> How do you like the rear (captains) seat in the middle?.



I actually have two seat bases on the rear seat. As you stated, I like to sit off to the side when I use the tiller arm.

Regards


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## fishguymatt_ (Mar 31, 2016)

Nice! that what I was wondering, I am pulling alot of ideas from your build for mine, thanks man! I am going to go w the 2 options in the front and back as well, cheers!


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## schukster (Apr 11, 2016)

I've been working on wiring the lights and trolling motor. I ended up putting my battery under the bow shelf. The tm has a minn kota plug so I can easily remove it when I want.

I bought a RV electrical panel door that I installed on the right side compartment that contains my switch and fuse panel. The door isn't very heavy duty, so I'll have to see how it holds up.







Because the tm covers the spot where I would normally have my navigation lights, I bought a navigation pole light that fits into a socket that I mounted on the bow shelf. I also added a volt meter and 12v plug receptacle on the side of the bow shelf. I have a cheap fish finder that came with the boat that I am going to attach a 12v plug to use with that receptacle.







I would like to say that I am done with the conversion, but I don't think anybody is ever really done. Here is how the boat looks now.


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## perchjerker (Apr 11, 2016)

wow very nice work Lyle!!


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## hbouldin1216 (May 17, 2017)

Love what you did with the bow section. Any chance you have more pictures of how you did that battery box up front? 

I've cut a section running forward of the front bench and have plans to turn it into an anchor locker, but I would really love to put the trolling battery up there too. Right now it is in the middle bench but I have a bait tank there too, and I had to remove a lot of foam.


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## mtntop (May 17, 2017)

very nice write up and I liked the attention to detail and clean look!


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## schukster (May 17, 2017)

hbouldin1216 said:


> Love what you did with the bow section. Any chance you have more pictures of how you did that battery box up front?



Thanks.



The face of the bow shelf comes off after removing a couple of screws. I have a Battery Tender cord attached to the battery posts so I find that I don't need to get into the battery compartment very often. I was always going to find some thumb screws in case I ever needed to get into the compartment while I was on the lake.



The area under the bow shelf is just a continuation of the casting platform. I don't have a battery box. I just have some cleats that hold the battery in place. I am a fair weather fisherman on a relatively small inland lake so I haven't experience big waves. I probably should tether the battery down with some web strapping. However, its a pretty snug fit and there isn't a lot of space for it to bounce around.




The top bow shelf rests on and is fastened to a pair of cleats that I bolted to the side of the bow. If I had to do it over, I would have the bow shelf a little bit higher so I wouldn't have needed the shim board for my trolling motor mount.


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## schukster (May 17, 2017)

mtntop said:


> very nice write up and I liked the attention to detail and clean look!



Thanks for your comment.

Here are a couple of pictures of things that I have added this spring.

I added some flush mount brackets for my Cannon rod holders on the top of the bow shelf. I use an extension post for the one shown on the left to strap my tm shaft to so it doesn't bounce around. The picture shows the storage area under the front casting deck.





Below, I also added a hinge lid for the side compartment shown on the left. There isn't a lot of space in that compartment but I found you can never have too many nooks and crannies for storage. I also bought a basket that I attached to a bracket that I made from an old license plate. The bracket slips over the 2x4 horizontal frame and I can move it to either side compartment. I added a second RV electrical panel door on the opposite side. I use that storage area for my fish finder. 





Something else I added was a mount for a manual shallow water anchor. I used a flag pole holder for the mount and some pvc pipe. I use an 8 foot 3/4 inch fiberglass pole. I have used the anchor on some calm days on our lake and it worked great. I'm not sure how much stress it will handle. It was a fairly cheap project.


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## DiveLiberty (Sep 2, 2017)

Nice, clean build! 

I was wondering if you happen to remember what brand your seats were? They look pretty nice and would like to look into them for my boat. 

Thanks!


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## schukster (Sep 2, 2017)

DiveLiberty said:


> Nice, clean build!
> 
> I was wondering if you happen to remember what brand your seats were? They look pretty nice and would like to look into them for my boat.
> 
> Thanks!


Thanks for the comment.

They are Tempress NaviStyle high back. They come in various colors. Tempress also has a shorter back style as well. I think they are very comfortable and worth the money. 

S

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## DiveLiberty (Sep 2, 2017)

Wooee I've got an eye for quality I guess. You get what you pay for on boat seats. 


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## schukster (Sep 2, 2017)

DiveLiberty said:


> Wooee I've got an eye for quality I guess. You get what you pay for on boat seats.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


[emoji106] I got the solid light grey one as an open box special on Amazon for $80. I liked the quality so I bought the two tone grey at regular price. If you look around you can sometimes find them around $110. Otherwise they are normally around $125 or higher.

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## thomasdgs (Apr 14, 2018)

I really appreciate the attention to detail in your build and your records of it. Now that I see your inset bow plate, I really like that look more than my bow plate, which is above the gunwales. I also like how you didnt build the startboard side box all the way to the rear bench, give some leg room when running the tiller. 

A couple of questions for you.. How is the interior paint holding up? Seeing how yours turned out makes me realize I really need to do my interior paint before completing my build. Do you feel that mounting the battery so high in the bow made the boat more susceptible to listing? 

I will likely have more questions for you in the future. Great to see another 14' Lund build.


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## schukster (Apr 14, 2018)

This will be the 3rd summer that I have used my boat. I haven't had any peeling of the interior paint. As I stated in my post,on the interior I only scraped any loose paint and sanded it smooth and to scruff up the existing paint before I applied a couple thin coats of primer and paint. 

As far as the battery location and listing, quite frankly the 9.8 mercury isn't enough hp to really get it up on plane. I have thought about upgrading to a larger motor but can't justify it for how I use the boat. I live on the lake so I usually just troll back to my dock. I could definitely change the battery location if needed.

Also,I usually fish by myself so the extra weight in the bow helps level me out when I'm running the tiller

Schukster

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## WV1951 (Apr 15, 2018)

That is a sweet ride. Awesome detail. Nice and deep.


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## akboats (May 17, 2018)

Like this build, the interior looks great. Cant wait to see more


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## DansFishTaxidermy (May 23, 2018)

Beautiful Boat! Lots of ideas taken from your conversion. I have a 1977 Lund I'm just starting.


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## schukster (May 23, 2018)

Thanks, Dan. I'm glad you found some things you could use for your build.

S


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## water bouy (May 24, 2018)

Looks good. I have a similar trolling motor and the pedal cord reached the rear seat on my 14 ft. I'm hoping it does the same on my 16 ft.


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## murphy67 (Aug 9, 2018)

Great work on this build, looks very professional and clean. I like how you incorporated the mid-cut bench seat that remained and turned it into storage, etc.

I am planning to do a 14ft V hull in about a month and was planning to do a similar cutting of the middle bench to help with keeping things tight and sturdy and now after seeing this build and use of that, I think I am going to for sure go a very similar route. Thanks!!


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## Streamdream (Feb 26, 2019)

Beautiful build! How much weight did the additions add to the boat? Maybe 200-220 lbs? That's about 1/3 of your overall capacity I'm guessing. #-o 

Greg


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## schukster (Feb 26, 2019)

Thanks for the comment.

I wish I had kept better track of how much weight I added. I found the specs for my boat on the Lund site. The load capacity is 795# which the coasts guard rates for a 5 person capacity. I did an estimate on the linear feet of cedar 2x4 and the 5/8 inch plywood and hardware and came up with about 200 #. The boat is definitely heavier to push around on the trailer and obviously sits a bit lower in the water. Its probably is using up about 1.5 of the 5 person rating. I would have no concerns using it to fish with three adults. The weight of my build is fairly distributed over the length of the boat. 

I probably overbuilt it with 2x4 and 5/8 decking but I'm 250+pounds and wanted it to hold me. 2x2 and 1/2 inch decking would probably work for lighter folks. I'm more of a carpenter than a metal worker, otherwise aluminum would probably be lighter yet.

Schukster

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## tna0066 (Jul 26, 2020)

How is the paint holding up?
I have the same Lund and am looking to do a tear down and rebuild such as yours. Fantastic work and thank you for all the pictures.


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## schukster (Jul 27, 2020)

Wow, this is the 5th summer since my refurb. Both the rustoleum topside and the rustoleum interior paint has held with no problems or peeling. I did put a scratch on the exterior by rubbing a dock bracket but that wasn't any fault of the paint. You might want to research adding a clear coat hardening additive to the exterior final coat, something I didn't do.

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