# '67 14' Alumacraft Shallow V and Trailer remodel.



## Hanr3

Hello All,

It's about time for me to begin phase two.
First a little back ground.

January 1st, 2008 I bought a 14' Alumacraft from my wifes uncle for $150. It came on a trailer vintage 1950's and pretty beat up. Buddy had a trailer a friend of his dumped because he broke a spring while on the highway which tossed his boat into the ditch and did some damage to the trailer. We loaded the boat trailer up onto a flat bed trailer and drug it to my house. 

Phase 1 
Building a boat trailer from junk!


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## Hanr3

First thing I had to do was develope a plan.

Axle shot, frame bent, rusty, no lights, bunks shot. Hmmmmmm!


The plan was to whack up the tongue off the old trailer and use that for the tongue on this new trailer. I wanted the transom to sit on the bunk and that meant lengthening the trailer tongue. Meant giving up the folding trailer feature, but oh well. 

I took the tongue off the rebuildable trailer and used it for my axle. Sorry no pics of that process. I has to make some shims so the spindles would fit in goodentight. Then drilled a 5/16" hole trough the new axle and spindle and installed a bolt with lock washer and red loctite. Had to use a 5 pound sledge to beat the spindles into teh axle. She isn't coming apart. 

I stripped everything off the rebuildable trailer, sanded every square inch to clean metal or solid paint, straightened the frame and spring hangers, and started painting. First 2 coats of rustoleum sealer, and the last 3 coats with rustoleum black metal flake paint. I must have used 10 cans of spray paint.


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## Hanr3

Phase one Complete.



















Couple of shots at the lake right after I got off the water. Boat doesn't leak. Trailer works great. Trolling motor and fishfinder are awesome. Plus with that 18hp she get up on plane.







I caught a few. :mrgreen:


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## Hanr3

Alright. 1 year later and it's time for Phase Two.

I know the trailer works and the boat doesn't leak. Plus I can catch a few dinks in it. :mrgreen: 

Ebay has been my friend the past couple of months.
I have collected a lot of parts.

The only pic I have for this post is my plan.

I left the dimension line so you could get an idea. 
I will be removing all bench seats, most are dry rotted anyway. 
I will be using the bench supports which are riveted to teh sides as supports for my decking. I left the supports in the picture and they have dimension line next to them on the starboard side of the boat. 

This year I anticipate having about 130 pounds of dogs with me and maybe my son or wife. 
It may take me a month or so to get the work done. I work full time, will be driving up to my brothers to frame up his basement on the weekends. That leave weeknights to work on the boat.




Tell me if there is anything in particular you want detailed pics or information about. I'll do my best to get that into the thread. Give my plan a going over and ask questions. Now is the time to fix any oversights. I hate doing rework!


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## ben2go

Looks like a pretty good plan.


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## Zum

Couldn't reall read the "plans" but looks well thought out.
One question,you had a 7.5 then someone gave you a 10hp...Where did the 18hp come from.
Boat looks nice.


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## Waterwings

Nice work! 8)


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## cprince

Zum said:


> Couldn't reall read the "plans" but looks well thought out.
> One question,you had a 7.5 then someone gave you a 10hp...Where did the 18hp come from.
> Boat looks nice.



Original 7.5 HP + New 10hp = 17.5HP Rounded up is 18HP.

:lol: 

Just kidding!!

@ Hanr3
Could you re-post your plan, it is too small for these old eyes to make out everything!


Craig


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## Big Buck

Oh I can't wait to see what you are going to do with this boat. This is same year and same make as my boat that I am doing. See link below. I also have a Johnson Sea Horse motor, mine is a 18 horse. Let me know what you think, and I will be keeping a close eye on this project, maybe we can trade pointers on what we have done. Looks good so far. =D> 

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=5726


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## Hanr3

Zum said:


> Couldn't reall read the "plans" but looks well thought out.
> One question,you had a 7.5 then someone gave you a 10hp...Where did the 18hp come from.
> Boat looks nice.




:mrgreen: 

:-# You didn't hear this from me. However said Uncle fished on lakes that had a hp restriction. He changed the cover from the 18hp to a 10hp cover. I did the research and it is in fact a 18hp motor. Model FD-11. 

As for the plan. I managed to convert it to a sie that should be reaable. It wasa a round about way since I couldn't get Visio to enlarge the image like I wanted.



Color coding since the pic still isn't big enough to read it.
Orange=Battery (one battery compartment on port side of bow seat, optional battery / storage compartment on starboard side of bow seat. 

Gray= Anchor compartments.
Green= Storage
Long dark green= pole storage.
Red= gas tank
Blue= lights, and a switch next to each light.
I also have a master switch panel on the port side with fuses. 
there will be one accesory plug and one trolling motor plug on the bow and port side next to the master switch panel.


Right now my biggest delima is the 5' span on each side of the open floor on the back half of the boat. I plan to leave the space under the little 6"-7" wide deck to hang my poles. That means no verticle upright half way down on the outside edge (towards the open floor). I dont want work the poles around a post in the middle of the opening if you understand what I mean. Looking for suggestions.


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## Hanr3

Big Buck said:


> Oh I can't wait to see what you are going to do with this boat. This is same year and same make as my boat that I am doing. See link below. I also have a Johnson Sea Horse motor, mine is a 18 horse. Let me know what you think, and I will be keeping a close eye on this project, maybe we can trade pointers on what we have done. Looks good so far. =D>
> 
> https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=5726



Big Buck,
I have been watching your build as well. your looks great as well. I'd be glad to trade pointers. I am open to any and all suggestions. Up until now I only worked on trucks/cars, mostly my own junk.


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## Hanr3

Time for a quick update.

I redesigned the interior layout. I wasn't too keen on a raised deck on a small boat. So this is the new plan.




PDF version below. 


I also ebay'd some interior lights. I bought 30' of rope LED lights. I tested them out in the garage tonight, they should work well enough. Teh bulbs are spaced every 2". The plan is to run the lights under the lip of the raised rail around the interior of the boat.


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## Hanr3

Quick gear list of the gear I bought over the winter for this upgrade. No particular order.

13" pedistal base for the rear seat.
4 gang vertical fused/switch panel- nav lights, cabin lights, accessory outlets.
750 gph livewell pump.
rod rack
marker bouy holder
nav light (bow)
All around light and base (stern)
transom saver
Crappie EZ checker
electric fillet knife
Livewell plumbing kit-airerator, drain, overflow, thru hull, plug, elbows, tee, etc.
Spare nav and all around light bulbs
30' rope LED lights 2" spacing, commercial grade
Coleman cooler- 48 or 52 qrt. 
2-15 pound Navy anchors rubber coated with 100' line
wire
and a couple sheets of plywood. 


List of things left to buy.
pedistal base for front seat
livewell timer
boat carpet and glue
night fishing light

Heading up to Chi-Town this weekend to start framing up my brothers walk out basement. I plan to swing by Bass Pro Shop on the way out of town to pick up the livewell timer, carpet and glue kit. I might get the pedistal base too, depends on what kind of deals I can get. 
Then i's just a matter of making room in the garage to begin. 

I cant wait, I have been planning this mod for since I bought the boat.
I'm stoked.


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## baptistpreach

I love your layout, its similar (not exact) to the hydrilla gorilla idea. I am curious though, with your setup as is, how well will you be able to pilot the boat? seems like 2ft away from the stern is a little of a reach, am I seeing it wrong? Also, along the same lines, how will you be able to use the TM?

One other thing, I'd move the livewell further back or towards the middle of the two seats, that's a lot of weight when its full, and surely it'd affect your planing. Also, if you centered it, you could put a vinyl top on it, and it would function as more seating and the weight distribution would be better for riding as well.


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## Hanr3

baptistpreach said:


> I love your layout, its similar (not exact) to the hydrilla gorilla idea. I am curious though, with your setup as is, how well will you be able to pilot the boat? seems like 2ft away from the stern is a little of a reach, am I seeing it wrong? Also, along the same lines, how will you be able to use the TM?
> 
> One other thing, I'd move the livewell further back or towards the middle of the two seats, that's a lot of weight when its full, and surely it'd affect your planing. Also, if you centered it, you could put a vinyl top on it, and it would function as more seating and the weight distribution would be better for riding as well.



Thanks for the kudos. I'll have to google that hydrilla idea. 
The rear seat will be about 6" further away than the original position. So it shouldn't be a problem. Plus on the current set-up I couldn't straddle the rear bench which made piloting uncomfortable. As for the trolling motor it's the MK Endura with the extendable handle. The handle pulls out about a 1' or so. 

My current plan is to put cutting board material on the cooler, although a 3rd seat is a good idea. I'll have to play around with teh dimensions. My main concern is space between the livewell and sides. Teh boat is only 4' wide and the livewell is 16", leaves about 32" /2=16" on each side. 

I am hoping putting the livewell more towards the front will help me get on plane faster. Right now with my big butt, the motor, tm, battery, and gas tank all in the back end it takes a long time to get on plane.


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## Hanr3

Update:

I managed to make room in the garage on Saturday. Took me all day, but I got the boat in there and have some wiggle room on each side to work. 

Sunday I ripped out all the wood and started to mock up my floor supports.


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## Hanr3

Alright this is where I am right now. Down to bare aluminum. No wood left in the boat.





I do have new stainless steel hardware, and picked up the last of the lumber I need for the floor. I still need to get something for the transom, and that quest is continuing. I started to layout my floor supports and should have something to so you all within the next day or two. I plan to have the wood work roughed in by this weekend. Its supposed to be nice enough out to polyurathane all the wood on both sides. Then I can mount it in place.


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## Hanr3

3/5/09 update.
I tried to cut out the transom Tuesday night, however my 15 yearo old Craftsman jig saw gave up the ghost. Bought a new one last night.



Tonight I got back to work on the transom. She is all cut, shaped, and sanded to size.


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## russ010

looking good man - keep up the great work!


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## Big Buck

Looking good, can't wait to see the finished product.


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## kemical

Hanr3 said:


> 3/5/09 update.
> I tried to cut out the transom Tuesday night, however my 15 yearo old Craftsman jig saw gave up the ghost. Bought a new one last night.
> View attachment 1
> 
> 
> Tonight I got back to work on the transom. She is all cut, shaped, and sanded to size.



love what you did with the transom, what type of wood is that? i want to get the same thickness, but i dont know where to find it, a friend of mine mention i should get bus bench wood, hey are really good, but i cant find that thickness.


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## Hanr3

There should be major progress this weekend. I'll try to post updates every night.

I work for a company that makes patterns for foundry castings, the castings are then poured and returned to us and we machine to a finished part. I got the wood from work. 

You can buy what is called 5/4 (5 quarter) lumber from any decent lumber company, not your local home imrovement center. A real lumber yard. This particular piece of wood is Mahagony. Mahaganoy and White Oak are the preferred woods of choice for boat transoms. They are strong and resist rot.


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## kemical

thanks!!! tomorrow i will look into it!! local lumber yard


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## BloodStone

> :-# You didn't hear this from me. However said Uncle fished on lakes that had a hp restriction. He changed the cover from the 18hp to a 10hp cover. I did the research and it is in fact a 18hp motor. Model FD-11.



What year is that Johnson 18 hp? And is it a bitc_ to pull start? I just picked up an 18 hp Evinrude (and it has QUITE the resistence when attempting to pull start it & no it's not in gear :lol: ) Also I am trying to go the electric start route (bodes better for the console I plan on putting in the boat). IF I can find a flywheel & starter that is. [-o<


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## Hanr3

FD11 made in 1957. Its not too bad to pull start once you get it warmed up. It'll fire and run on first pull once warmed up. My first mod the engine will be a fuel pump so I dont ahve to use the vaccum gas tank. Electric start would be an awesome upgrade as well.

Generally high compression is a good thing, makes pull starting a bit rough but it means the piston rings and cylindar walls are in good shape.


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## Hanr3

Update 3/8/09
It was a rough weekend to get any work done. Betweent eh Thunder and lightening storms, tornado warnings (really high winds) and family obligations I managed to squek about 8-10 hours garage time.

In reviewing other peoples work on their mods I decided to take a different approch to putting in a flat bottom. I ran 3 2x4" from bow to stern. I'll go into more details on that when I have pictures to share. For right now the three 2x4 are under the deck and the deck is resting comfortable on top.






Stern of the boat and from what I started with to where I am right now. 





I roughed in teh front deck storage area. The pic below is an overhead shot. Note the foam flotation in the front, next is my anchor storage pcket, and finally the last section will be for fishing gear. I laid a plastic tackle box in there so you get an idea how big it is. I expect to place 4 of those plastic boxes in the top half and the bottom half will be general storage. Rain suits, lifejackets, etc. 



See any flaws at this point? Nothing is fastened in place. Right now everything is just resting in place. I am going to rough it all out, take it all apart, polyurathane everything and then fasten it all together, then carpet.

Couple of things I still have to work out are the hatch on the front strorage and the box around the livewell seat base/battery storage. Got any suggestions?


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## Hanr3

Update 3/16/09

After last weekes update I got to looking at all the wasted space in that plan. Desided I needed to change the plan and went with three side by side compartments instead. The starboard side will be for my anchor, the center will be for plastic tackle trays, and the port side will be for whatever. I started to build the support structure and wasn't happy witht he way it was coming out. Just seemed to flimsy. So I remodeled that idea into my current version. Its still not perfect, but after a week of messing around with it, I will settle. I say settle because I am an amatur wood worker. Like I told a wood working buddy of mine. It aint pretty but its functional. I also told him I could get a straight angle to save my life, and its hell trying to build something when there isn't a striaght angle anywere. This deck support structure is totally freehand and not my better work. The only saving grace is once the top and face boards are in place most of the butchery will be hidden. I still have one mod to do to it before I drop it into place, and that will give it more support and tie into where the front seat used to go. you'll get a better idea once its in place. However tonights updates are:
















I have two coats of polyurathance on the front deck support structure. That is pretty much done until I install the carpet. This week I plan to get the main deck finished up and back in the boat. I also plan to make a center section for my batteries (seat on top), cooler (drinks,lunch), livewell, and gear storage. It'll be about 5' long and about 14" wide.

While workin on the boat I have determined that at least three other people have owned it before me. My wifes uncle (who I bought it from), some guy who carved his name and SSN, and some guy named JC. I knew my boat was old, but never would have guessed Jesus used it to feed the deciples. :mrgreen:


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## Waterwings

That's lookin' real good! 8)


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## kemical

cant wait to see the finish product,, i myself have a alumacraft, and im dying to work on the floor, soo thanks for the idea!!


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## Hanr3

Thanks for the Kudo's.

Update:

I didn't spend but an hour or so in the garage tonight. I put the first coat of paint on the bottom side of the floor/deck. then decided to have a homemade beer. Unfortunately I drained the 5 gallon keg tonight. I guess that means I have to brew more beer this weekend. :mrgreen: 

On to the pics:


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## ben2go

Niceeeee.I like those dove tails.


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## Hanr3

Update 3/21/09

Progress was slow this week and today I got alot done.
during the week I put on two coats of the safety yellow enamel paint on both sides of the floor. This morning I swung by Lowes and picked up 7 linear feet of marine backed outdoor carpet and some other supplies. I had contact cement from when I redid my kitchen counter tops last summer. I think it was last summer, maybe it was the year before, yea it was two years ago, last summer I installed new windows and remodeld the basement. I had about 5/8 of a gallon left. I managed to get the carpet installed and the floor back in the boat.

On to the pics.


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## Hanr3

Part 2 of today's update.

I had my youngest son (21) help me flip the floor over and slide it back into the boat.








I have been working on the front cover to the front deck. No pics, hothing really to show unless you want to see some pieces of wood in clamps. I did mangae to break the front cover into two pieces. Now I have to fashion up a trim board to cover my opps.

I have been mulling over the battery, livewell box off and on all week. the batteries will go under the front seat, the livewell behind it. At one point I thought about putting a small drink cooler between the battery and livewell. Plus I have alos been kicking around the idea of a storage box at the livewell end. My latest thought is the batter box, livewell, and the electrical control center with a small lock box for my registration etc. I have been drawing a lot of scetches on graph paper lately. Tomorrwo night I should have a visual for ya'll. :mrgreen:


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## Hanr3

Update 3/22/09

I did some more shopping, this time at Menards. Picked up a bunch of hardware for the battery/livewell/electrical control center. I spend the rest of the day cutting, notching, dadoing the sides for the box. They are clamped up and I am letting the glue dry overnight. I'll get some pics tomorrow. Hopefully tomorrow night I can finish cutting the box and get the first coat of polyurathane on it.


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## daltonmcgill

looks good =D>


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## hoosierstatefisher

hi all, new to the site, but I had to say you are doing an awesome job on this boat, and the floor plan is great! 

Also just want to say this site is freak'n awesome! =D>


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## Waterwings

Great work, Hanr3 ! 8) 


Welcome Aboard, hoosierstatefisher!


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## Hanr3

Thanks for the kudos.

Update 3/23/09

Tonight I managed to get most of the batery/livewell/electrical section done. It's late so I'll skip to the pics.


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## Hanr3

Part 2 of tonights update.

The 1/4" luan in the side panels is loose. In other words the frame boards are routed out so the 1/4" free floats. This gives the loose pieces room to expand and contract with humidity. 

So what does it look like assembled?
I still have the finishing touches to add, like a top trim ring to seal off the cooler, one cross support between the battery and cooler, some carpet or luan to teh batter end piece (haven't decided yet), wire up the electrical and hang the front seat.







I went with this design for the sides to gain the room in the boat. Notice the top of the sides are up tight to the livewell while the bottom has a reinforcement 1 1/4" strip. That strip serves several purposes, it holds the batteries in place so they dont slide side to side. The strips also give me planty of places to anchor the box to teh floor in the boat. I'll show more detail of the elcetrical, and anchoring the boat seat later. 

One thing I still need to hash out is anchoring the cooler to the floor. Looking for ideas?


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## MikeA57

For non-permanent anchoring of the livewell you could screw 2 eye bolts at each end into the 1 1/4" strips it rests on and run a bungee strap through the handles. This would allow you to replace it if needed or clean around it; or yank it out with you catch in it so you can clean 'em...


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## Hanr3

Thanks for the input Mike. I like that idea. I didn't think about making hte cooler removeable to haul the fish for cleaning.


Ponders for a few moments on how to make it easily removeable......................









Free thinking.
I cuold use on piece of 3/4" plywood for the top and anchor teh seat to that, use 4 maybe 6 clamps to hold it in place. Then remove it when its time to pull the cooler out. 

What to do with the fill line and drain hose? 
Hmmm. a union fitting for the fill line would be quick and easy. wonder if I could get the parts to install a union fitting for the drain and overflow too, and still fit within my space?

I have to do some more research. Thansk Mike for the idea. The more I think about it the more I like the idea of carrying the cooler at the end of the day. Then I dont have to bring a seperate bucket, that would be one less thing to carry. I like carrying less stuff. =D>


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## Hanr3

I did some research and a bunch of thinking. I am not going to make the livewell removeable. I couldn't find quick connectors that suited my needs, and it would take too much effort to rework the current box. 

I did manage to get some things done this week. I marked my battery/lliverwell/electrical control center location on the floor. Pulled th floor up and roughed in the plumbing and electrical conduit.

The large white hose is my livewell drain hose.
The smaller white pipe is my livewell fill line.
The large grey pipe is for the sonar wire, it has a big connector. 
The 4 grey conduit is for my electrical wires.
2 pipes are for the trolling motor wires, one towards the stern and the other bow.
Last 2 pipes are for the rest of the electrical wires, one bow and one stern.


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## Hanr3

Part 2 of tonights update.

I cleaned up the sawdust and dropped in the floor one last time. I think its in there until it rots away. 

Here are some pics of the top side.










Tomorrow I plan to stain, polyurathane, and paint the remaining parts. Things should move quickly now. I want to get out on the water next weekend. We'll see how close we get.


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## Hanr3

Surprise.

We ended up getting the 5" of snow last night. It's been 50+ degrees for the past week -10 days, and last night it dumped 5" of heavy wet snow. That may slow down the drying time. I do work in my attached garage, however it doesn't have any insulation in the ceiling or the overhead door. I do have a small gas furnace in there. It does just enough to take the chill out. I left it run all night in hopes it would keep the garage 50+ so I can stain, and paint at least.


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## Waterwings

Nice work on the conduit runs, and looks well thought out! 8) . Sorry to hear about the snow.


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## Hanr3

Thanks Waterwings.

I spent a lot of time in the design phase hashing out how to run the plumbing and electrical, even before I decided on the floor layout. I wanted a simple, easy to use system. Electrical wiring can get complicated real quick all by itself. I reallly liked the vertical 2x4 floor support system for the ease of installing the conduit, and the plumbing runs.

Little break down on the electical plan while the polyurathane dries, second coat.

Small lawn mower battery will power my fishfinder, all around light, and nav light. That's it.
+ terminal block will have
+ battery wire to feed power to the block,
Fishfinder
All around light switch ( when this switch is on it will power the all around light and provide power to the navigation lights switch. Flip on that switch and the nav lights (red/green lights on the bow) will come on. Two switches to do the same thing as a Douple pole switch. 

- terminal block will have,
Battery -
fishfinder
all around light switch (lighted switch)
all around light
nav light switch (lighted switch)
nav light


Main battery will feed power to the trolling motor and 4 gange fused lighted switch panel. Teh switch panle will feed the accessory outlets, cabin lights, bilge pump, and livewell pump. 

Battery + terminal block will have
Battery +
Fused switch panel (feeds power to the lighted switches and thier components).
bilge pump float switch (seperate 10 amp fuse) 

Battery - terminal block will have
battery -
fused switch panel
cabin lights
accessory outlets bow
accessory outlets stern
livewell pump,
bilge pump

Trolling motor will be feed directly off the battery via a circuit breaker.
Bilge pump float switch will be hot all the time, if the boat takes on water the pump will turn on automatically. With the manual switch I can turn the pump on manually as well. Redundant system for safety. 

As for the wiring and fuses.
Trolling motor wires and wires feeding the terminal blocks will be stranded 8 gauge wire.
Navigation lights and all around light- 2 amp fuse, 16 gauge wire
Fishfinder- 1 amp fuse, 16 gauge wire
Cabin lights- 5 amp fuse 16 gauge wire
Livewell pump- 5 amp fuse, 16 gauge wire
Bilge pump- 2 amp fuse, 16 gauge wire
Bilge pump float switch- 5 amp fuse, 16 gauge wire
Accessory outlets- 10 amp fuse 14 gauge wire


I drew up a diagram, however I get a file is too big error message. Its too late to fart around with it tonight. I'll try to post it tomorrow night. 

You should see it now. I stained the transom, and exposed panels a nice red mahagony colored stain, and covered it with 2 coats of exterior semi-gloss polyurathane. They look pretty sweet.

I might put a thrid coat on tomorrow night. I also have a couple of boards I need to paint yet, plus I have some more carpet to lay. Tuesday and Wednesay I have to finish up the polyurathane and painting. Gives me Thursday and Friday nights to assemble, terminate my electrical, hook up the plumbing, hang the motor, hang the trolling motor, and anything else. I am still planning to fish out of her Saturday. Weather man says its going to be 60 and sunny. No way I am going to miss that... :fishing:


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## Hanr3

Update 3/31/09 or is it really 4/1?

Well things are moving along nicely, only wish there were more hours in a night. 

I manged to pull the wire I had, made a shopping list of things to get, and installed the front deck. I stuffed all the foam from the old front bench seat except for a few small chunks, than filled up all the voids with a can of expanding foam.

Pardon the construction mess, no time to clean up.


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## Hanr3

4/2/09 Update:

Progress is slowwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww...........................

I spent the last two nights on the electrical, painting, and touching up polyurathane. 

I only have two pics for tonights update, both of the electrical control center.

First set of studs on the left are for the trolling motor wiring and powered by the main battery. The far left stud holds the circuit breaker. This way I can move the motor from bow to stern and get juice. Maybe one day I'll have the money to add a second trolling motor. If I do then it will be a simple upgrade in the electrical contorl center, add a second circuit breaker. The wire is already there. 

Center set of studs is for the lawn mower battery and it only powers the fishfinder and Navigation lights. I added a blue lighted switch to the switch panel for the navigation lights. I wanted a different color so I know without a doubt if they are on. 

Right set of studs is powered by the main battery. This provides power to the cabin lights, accessory outlets, bilge pump, and livewell pump. I have two fuses feeding the bilge pump, one through the bilge pump switch, and one for the bilge pump. With constant power to teh bilge pump float switch it doesn't matter if the bilge pump switch is on. Once the float gets high enough to pass power it will power the bilge pump. If I notice water in teh bilge area I can flip the siwtch turning on the motor as needed. My next upgrade to the livewell will be a timer. 

Couple of other things. I have a spare wire running to the bow and the stern. This way if I want to add something later, I already have the wire, just need to make the connections in the contorl center. For example when I add a bow mounted fishfinder I already have the wires ran.







This is what it will look like with the door closed. 
I still have to add the top piece.


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## Hanr3

Update 4/2/09 part 1 of 3.

Well I pulled a marathone night last night. Fisnished up the family obligations around 8:00pm. Than got to work on the boat. Sometime aroun 12:30am I made a run to Wally World looking for a livewell thru hull fitting, bilge pump thru hull fitting, and a screen for the livewell pump. They didn't ahve any of them. I did pick up a new filter system for my 55 gallon aquarium, the old one has been acting up lately. Oh yea I also picked up a whistle for the boat. 

The original transom had a thin sheet of cork board behind it. I figured that was to deaden sounds and maybe too provide a water tight seal for the bolt holes. I had a can of underbody rubber coating and figured, what the hell. It should provvide sound deadening, and waterproofing just as well if not better than the cork.









Not only did I run out of energy, I ran out of contact cement, had no thru hull fittings, needed some more bolts, and other odds and ends. I came inside to wait 15 minutes before heading to Lowes, they open at 6:00am. 






I woke up at 10:30am to my son telling me its time to get up.


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## Hanr3

Update part 2 for tonight.

So I get my supplies at Lowes and decided to try a local marina. I pulled in as the guy was leaving, he opened back up and cut me a hell of a deal on the parts I needed. 

So back to the boat. I recruited my son to help. He's attending college for electrical engineering, I figured he could do all the electrical terminaions at teh devices. It was great to have his help today. I also taught him how to creat a hinged seat lock, and showed him a few other things.


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## Hanr3

Alright. I promised myself I would get her out on the water today. Granted it was for only 2 hours. However I got to check a few things out. 

The livewell doesn't leak, however the pump can exceed the drain hose and I need to lower the top of the drain hose about an 1". 
I didn't complete teh project and still ahve some items left on my punch list. I still need to carpet and install the front deck hatches, install teh front deck door, install the all-around light, install the cabin night lights, add the fishing pole holders, reinforce the gunwalls, install the rear storage boxes. 

I didn't get the main motor to run, so I have to spend time on that. However the boat sits nice an level with my son and I. Trolling motor still moves us along very well. I can still hold my position with the transom facing a 10mph wind and the trolling motor on its lowest setting.

On to the pics.






Well, what do you think of it so far?


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## Waterwings

Nice work, and I like that stained transom board! 8)


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## Hanr3

Thanks Waterwings.


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## baptistpreach

your boat looks superb, only thing that strikes me is that your switch panel is by your livewell?? Are you worried about getting it wet? I know I'd be, but just a little curious


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## Hanr3

Thanks!

Naw, I am not really worried about it. The fish finder is waterproof, and the lid over the elecrical will keep it dry enough. I may have to extend the lid over the front of the door so it doesn't drip onto the switches, however they are marine switches and not too many boats have them protected from the elements from the factory. If it does become a problem, I'll find a solution. 

Even if I do get a huge splash of water from teh livewell ,most of it will hit the lid and flow away. If any does manage to get between the livewell and hte lid it then has to seep over the board holding the connectors. Plus that board is stained, and two coats of polyurathane, and butts up tight to the lid. Even if the backside of that board gets wet, it wont droip onto the switch panel. Only way for the electrical connectors to short out from water is if that area is full of water, and if that happens I'll be looking for my lifejacket and whistle. That means the boat is full of water.

Thanks for the question and the concern. I'll let you all know how it goes after the first rain storm. :mrgreen:


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## Tunnels

I'm pretty new here and just found your build. I must say, this has been a most entertaining build. Great pics & tips. Nice craftsmanship. I've laid out my 14' deep-vee six times so far. I think, like you, just start and let it evolve from there. I've read here that some think it's a bad idea to cut out the seats because of hull stability. Did you find this to be a problem? You started with less than I have and you made something out of it. =D> Good luck!!
Thanks for some new ideas.


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## seaarc

=D> =D> Nice work Hanr3. Looks like you have put a lot of thought and hard work into your project. Nice touch on the transom adds a little nostalgea to it. I'm kicking around some ideas for a livewell myself do you have some more detailed pics of the livewell plumbing at the well and the transom?

Dave


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## Hanr3

Thanks and yes I put a lot of thought into it. Space is at a premium on a small narrow boat.

You guys had a couple of requests.

Hopefully these pics will help you out.



Open up the front seat base to gain access to the batteries.



I also have access to the livewell water supply side from teh battery compartment.



Pic of the water supply side.



Drain side.


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## Hanr3

Part 2
5 pic limit.

Drain side.



I drilled two holes in the transom for my livewell. 
1 hole for the livewell pump, and the other hole for the livewell drain. I used a 1 1/2" bi-metal hole saw. Wish I would have had a 1" holesaw for the pump, however the pump fittings are big enough to cover the 1 1/2" hole. I used aquarium sealant around both sides of both holes.




I haven't cut the livewell pump tube shorter yet. I still need to pick up a strainer that goes over the end of the tube to keep crap out of the pump and livewell.


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## Hanr3

Someone asked about how I plan to strengthen the gunwalls after removing the bench seats? It's a valid question and on everyones mind when they rework a boat. 

The floatation box replaces what used to be the rear bench seat. I posted pics earlier.

As for the sides, space is a huge concern for me. This is where I have to point out a few things. I like to Crappie fish over brush piles. Anchor up, and fish off the Port side (left) side of the boat. I figure all the action will be on the port side, hence the lievwell opening on that side too. I plan to put my fishing pole rack on the starboard side, out of the way of the action. Last thing I need is a hook in the leg, or to break a pole. 

This is my solution for the starboard side.





I decided not to use the original brackets. Instead I fashioned up some new brackets from 1 1/4" angle aluminum. I riveted the brackets in place. I will attach my fishing pole holders to the brackets. 

As for the port side, still working on that. I might make cup holders, or paddle brackets on that side, or maybe just put in the same style brackets and put carpet on them?


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## seaarc

WOW! Ask and you shall recieve great detailed pics and explanations. Thanks. One question I have is about the drain line, I thought it needed to go out the boat above the water line. That could be why the overflow is not keeping up with the pump. Great work on the boat man and thanks for the ideas. 

Dave


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## Tunnels

Thanks for the pictures. I see me making sidewall braces as you did 7 covering them with 1/4" ply & carpeting. Behind the ply is a good spot for floatation.


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## Hanr3

Thanks and your welcome.

I also suspect you could be right about the drain. I did whack another 1" off the top to gibe me more time before it overflows. It could also be that the overflow drain is 3/4", too small. I can still and might put in an overflow drain at the top, put in a tee and connect it to the main drain. Then I just need a plug for the lower drain. That will be easy enough to make, whack off the tube close to the bottom and put a pvc cap on it.


Tunnels, great idea to add extra floatation. I might have to use that idea.


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## INGrandad

Wow, I been so busy collecting ideas for my flatbottom I hadn't looked at v-mods. This is like an episode of extreme makeovers. Way, way past my level of expertise. Nice job.


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## Stryker777

Great thread. Thanks for posting. I am about to start modding my '73 semi-V. Just stripping it and repairing right now, but have a good idea of what I want to do to it after seeing this thread.


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## Hanr3

Alrighty folks were are almost done. I took it out today for a second round of testing. I didn't get to spend too much time on the water. However the boat works great, however there are a couple of things I need to adjust.


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## shizzy77

looks great! Im jealous!!!


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## kemical

i was going to say the same thing " sooo jelous"" lol
i have a 12 i wish i had the space on a 12' like your 14' 
but i think i will do the same floor , i dont use a livewell so i think ill have enough space for 3 seats..with a front TM (foot controlled) 

right now it has 3 benches,, ill take them off! and us low pedestals 

same setup but i want to be able to have my TM portable (to take it off and on) soo when there are three people i can take it off and use a hand controlled front TM , and if theres 2 people then i can put on the foot one TM 

still trying to figur out how i can modified the front there isnt enough space to put the mount on so i have to rig someting up,, 
i tried once with wood and brackets and my TM started to get lose and it broke the bracket that was holding the TM and i had to paddle the whole time,, (sucked huevos) that day,,

BUT OVER ALL YOU DID AWESOME JOB!!


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## Hanr3

Well I have managed to get out on the water several more times, even took the wife once and we got poured on. 

Below are some more pics to highlight my last couple of mods.







On to some night shots.






There were a couple of things pointed out through out the build thread. 
I did move the rear seat back as far as possible and have debated putting it on the floatation box. Good catch Baptistpreach....

Baptistpreach also had questions about my switch panel location and someone was concerned about my circuits shorting out in the rain due to the location of my connections. I mentioned eralier that the wife went with me one night. We got dumped on. Rained, thunder, lightening, rained, rained and did I mention it rained. The boat did great. No electrical shorts, all the switches, electrical circuits worked perfect, and I even got to use the bilge pump for about 3 seconds. 

After rereading the whole thread I have some general comments to add.
I ended up buying 3 more linear feet of carpet and wished I would have bought a half gallon instead of the three pint cans. I ended up useing about a gallon of contact cement overall. 

I used trailer wiring for my general light circuits. Its color coded wire, 25' goes for about $12 and it comes with 4 wires connected together. Hard to pass up the price of $12 for 100' of wiring. 

I picked up a new lawn garden 12v battery and ShipN Shore battery charger for the boat. The battery was $28 with a core, and $10 off with a rebate. 
The charger is regularly $60, on sale for $40, and has a $10 rebate. So I bought them both. Glad I did. 

I used MikeA idea of the eye bolts, instead I used them to anchor the batteries instead of the livewell. 

I decided not to add any support to the port side. I figured the floor is anchored front and back so the boat will never buckle, the front deck spreads teh gunwalls up front and the rear floatation strengthens teh rear gunwalls, plus the two storage boxes int eh rear are also anchored to botht eh gunwall and floor. There pretty solid. Plus I watched the gunwalls while under power, no flex in them at all. 

I did lower the overflow the 1" and it made a huge difference. Teh pump still exceeds the drain capacity, however I have at least a minute or so to catch it. Shouldn't be a problem, I have to manually turn the pump on and off and you can hear it run. 

I did get teh main motor to run and the boat moves along nicely. It almost gets up on plane. Although I think I need to rebuild the carb, she isn't winding out (hitting the rpms) like she should. 

For those looking at my livewell connections, there are no clamps on the pipes and they dont leak, yet. I have the clamps, just need to put them on. 

As of right now I am very satisfied with the boat and how she turned out. Showed it to my wife uncle, the one who sold me the boat, and he was impressed with the mods. Now my biggest problem is putting fish in teh boat and that ain't the boats fault. :mrgreen: 


I did manage to catch another dink.


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## rcgreat

Awesome build. Turned out fantastic. I hope mine turns out half as good


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## baptistpreach

I definitely love your finished product. Many many very good practical ideas. I'll probably incorporate the one about the buoys/ drinkholder, very nice.


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## Hanr3

baptistpreach said:


> I definitely love your finished product. Many many very good practical ideas. I'll probably incorporate the one about the buoys/ drinkholder, very nice.



:LOL22: 

Thta's my favorite mod too. :mrgreen:


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## LarryA

Looks great. Real nice work!


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## dougdad

awsome job hanr, looks great.


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## MikeA57

Hanr3, I hadn't been back out here in a while to check out your progress and it's really come along nicely. I'm glad I was able to suggest something you were able to use. You really made the most out of the space you have available. 

That boat is very much like the 14' Alumacraft I grew up fishing in. You said you like to fish off the port side, yet your seat in the back in on the starboard. Does that present any problems for you? I like to be close to the side that I'm fishing off of. I just feel like I have a better command of the situation over there.


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## forsythia

Hanr3 said:


> Can you tell me how you made this, or what program you used to draw up your plan? I would love to try making my own. Thanks!
Click to expand...


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## Hanr3

Thanks for the compliments.

MikeA, the seat is on the starboard side mostly for the motor, and no I dont mind the location. Generally when the action gets going I stand up and like teh floor space, I tend to move around alot while fishing. 

Forsythia, I used a Microsoft product called Visio. It's part of the Office Suit products. I also used a ton of graph paper and pens.


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## Hanr3

I have a couple of more mods to update you all on. 

I picked up a Lowrance IFinder GPS unit last weekend for 4 dozen minnows. :mrgreen: 
Thanks Crappie Professor.
I played around with it all week while going to and from work, and errands. 
Took it ou tthis weekend to mark some cribs and some navigation points on the lake I fish the most. I discovered at WOT I am doing between 10-13mph. My 30 pound MinnKota Endura trolling motor pushes me along at 2.5-3 mph in high speed. Speed setting 3 is roughly 1.7mph. Not sure how slow speeds 1/2 go, the GPS doesn't register speeds that slow. Shows up as 0.0 mph. 
Last night I was the winning bidder on Ebay for a Lowrance MapCreate 6 program with MMC and card reader. Now I can download the map infromation for various lakes in the area. Then upload my waypoints to my PC. 

Last week I also ordered some new parts for my boat motor. I ordered a carb rebuild kit, water pump rebuild kit, ignition kit (points), and 2 new coils. I'll swing by Autozone and pick up new spark plugs. I should have the engine running like a top in no time. 

I have a few more things to do, and we will get to them. 

Oh, I did move teh bouy holder, it was iritating my left leg while sitting around waiting for the action to heat up. I moved it to the starboard side storage box. 

Last night I managed to catch a couple dozen Crappie and a couple Bass. It was a great weekend.


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## Big Buck

Where do you buy parts for your motor at. Mine was running great until this weekend, i put new gas in the tank and it must have sucked something up into the carb and I think that i need to go ahead and rebuild it. Just need to know where to get the parts.


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## Hanr3

Boat Motor Parts
Find your motor. you will need to create an account to complete the order. 
I spent like $80 for all the parts. 
Here are a couple of links you might be interested in.
Johnson FD 11 1957
Owners Manual
Parts Catalog


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## RBuffordTJ

What a great build!

Bufford in Orlando


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## Hanr3

It's been a year and I have some changes/upgrades/mods to make on the trailer and boat.

I dont like the trailer upright guide rails. They dont guide the boat and dont sit above the water when Im loading the boat, plus they are too close to the boat. 

I may add a plank to the trialer too. I have to walk the tongue when loading the boat, gets slippery and I have to grap the cable for balance. I also want to replace the cable with a strap, cabel slivers hurt.

I may redo the rear storage boxes. They arent as functional as I would like. Although I still use the main tackle box, maybe Ill get rid of it and just use the smaller boxes. 

I need to add a stereo, it gets too quiet and I dont have a way to get the latest weather info. 

Seriously considering moving the trolling motor to the bow.


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## maquackenbush

Hey I know it's been a while since the last time you posted but however I was wondering if you had any idea how much everything costed and more importantly how much the deck costed..... Thanks


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## Hanr3

The deck cost: 
3- 2x4x8' @ $2 each.
2- 4x8x3/4" plywood @ $20 each. 
1 gallon contact cement- cost, no idea.
package of disposable brushes for contact cement.
carpet was like $50. 
Paint I had from my youngest sons Eagle Project. Painted firehydrants. Its an oil based enamel paint. But you can use just about any left over paint to seal the wood.


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## Home Grown Basser

I love the classics


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## tccanoe

As far as the flex in your gunnels. You gotta remember. This is an all weld Alumacraft. It's gonna be more rigid than a rivit boat. I don't think you'll have any problems.


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## Hanr3

I decided to add some bunk sliders to help with my loading problem. I aquired a piece of UHMW 
(ultra-high molecular weight polyethelene) form a previous employer. They used it to cover the work benches so teh metal tops wouldn't damage parts during assemble, plus they keep particulate from accumulating and/or getting in/on the parts during assemble. I used my engine hoist to lift the boat and install the sliders. They worked great this past weekend. The boat was loaded for a camping/fishing trip. I camped in a primative site with only two ways in, water or foot. The boat hauled everything great.


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## Hanr3

I decided that my engine needed some TLC. I used my engine stand as an engine stand. Yes, my V6/V8 engine stand to hold my boat motor. 

I replaced the coils, points, condensers, wires, plugs, rebuilt the carb, replaced the water pump, and pulled the lower unit to check it out. I still have some bugs to work out, thinking my timing is off, and now it wont go in reverse.


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## Hanr3

tccanoe said:


> As far as the flex in your gunnels. You gotta remember. This is an all weld Alumacraft. It's gonna be more rigid than a rivit boat. I don't think you'll have any problems.



Actually this boat is 100% rivited. and no, flexing has not been a problem.


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## Snag_826

If you dont mind me asking what is the max weight capacity of your boat? just curious because i have a boat that is basically the same dimensions that i would like to mod.


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## mcdonl

HOW DID I MISS THIS THREAD!! This is almost exactly what I want to do, with a boat that is pretty similar.

Nice job!!

I will be referring to this thread A LOT!!


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## Hanr3

Snag_826 said:


> If you dont mind me asking what is the max weight capacity of your boat? just curious because i have a boat that is basically the same dimensions that i would like to mod.



I believe its 575 pounds.


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## Hanr3

mcdonl said:


> HOW DID I MISS THIS THREAD!! This is almost exactly what I want to do, with a boat that is pretty similar.
> 
> Nice job!!
> 
> I will be referring to this thread A LOT!!




Thank you. Let me know if you have any questions. Start up a thread of your own. We all like to follow along.


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## mcdonl

Hanr3 said:


> mcdonl said:
> 
> 
> 
> HOW DID I MISS THIS THREAD!! This is almost exactly what I want to do, with a boat that is pretty similar.
> 
> Nice job!!
> 
> I will be referring to this thread A LOT!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you. Let me know if you have any questions. Start up a thread of your own. We all like to follow along.
Click to expand...


I have one going (https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=18097) but I am asking more questions than posting progress so it is not getting much response.... I am at the planning stage still... until I saw this thread I really had no idea....


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## BaitCaster

Luv the pic of the boat loaded up with camping gear. My wife and I took a similar trip last year (another one planned for this year) and my boat literally looked like the truck in the Beverly Hillbillies loaded up with everything but the living furniture!


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## Hanr3

BaitCaster said:


> Luv the pic of the boat loaded up with camping gear. My wife and I took a similar trip last year (another one planned for this year) and my boat literally looked like the truck in the Beverly Hillbillies loaded up with everything but the living furniture!



One of my favorite camping trips. Planning on several more this year. The best part, you get that middle of no-where feeling, yet still in the middle of Illinois. Post up pics of your trip. I'd love to see them.


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## Bigalphaone

nice job on that trailer....I've just recently rebuilt mine..posting the pic's ASAP.


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## redman37777

great lookin boat man i was just wondering what was the thickness of the 1 1/4 angle aluminum and how did u rivet it on to the littil tunnel things on the floor


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## JFDBasser

I love this mod. I'm starting a 1954 Model K right now (16' version of your boat). I plan to liberally borrow ideas from your build :lol: 

Oh yeah, where did you camp in Illinois? I'm in Joliet, always looking for somewhere good to go in this state to get away from it.


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## Busbey

Very nice details


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## Splash

I have a similar question as redman. How did you manage to attach the wood decking to the cross braces on the boat? Maybe I missed that step. Rivets? Stainless screws?

Thanks.

-Splash


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## Hanr3

redman37777 said:


> great lookin boat man i was just wondering what was the thickness of the 1 1/4 angle aluminum and how did u rivet it on to the littil tunnel things on the floor



Thickness = 1/8"
I custom formed it to the rib and riveted in place.


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## Hanr3

Splash said:


> I have a similar question as redman. How did you manage to attach the wood decking to the cross braces on the boat? Maybe I missed that step. Rivets? Stainless screws?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> -Splash



I didn't attach the decking to the ribs. I skinned that cat another way. The deck is held in place in the front and back. Front by the storage cabinet, its attached to the boat hull. Back is attached via the floatation boax behind the rear seat. The box is attached to the hull where the rear bench seat used to be. Its not attached tot eh deck mechanically, however it sits on the deck thus holding it in place. The deck doesn't slide around becuase the plywood is notched around the ribs. In summary, the deck is held down in the front and back, plus it wont slide because of the notches around the ribs. I can remove everything in the boat and return it to original condition in a weekend.


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## Hanr3

A couple of updates to the trailer.

New winch post with new winch. I was able to move the winch about 6" closer to the boat, even with the winch mounted to the bottom of the cross bar. Upright is 2x2 square tube 1/8" thick, welded to a 4x4" square mount piece that is 1/4" thick. The cross brace is also 2x2 square tube, however its 1/4" thick. I drilled and tapped the winch mounting holes in teh 1/4" tube. The 1/4" tube is the same thickness as the nuts that came with the winch. The hook below the winch is where I hang the trailer my safety chains and boat bow safety chain. 

Side guides are made from 2x2 square tubing 1/8" thick and the light plate is 1/4" thick. That ought to protect the lights from damage. I also installed some HDPE on the inside so the boat slides easily on the guide. 

Both have drain holes.


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## aeviaanah

Hey I just finished scrolling through your thread. Nice build man! Whered you get the rope lights that surround the gunwales?


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## Hanr3

aeviaanah said:


> Hey I just finished scrolling through your thread. Nice build man! Whered you get the rope lights that surround the gunwales?



Thanks!
Ordered the lights off ebay. I dont remeber for sure, however I think it was a regular ebay vendor/store.


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## aeviaanah

Hanr3 said:


> aeviaanah said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey I just finished scrolling through your thread. Nice build man! Whered you get the rope lights that surround the gunwales?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> Ordered the lights off ebay. I dont remeber for sure, however I think it was a regular ebay vendor/store.
Click to expand...

Right on, I made some boat seat mounts for my boat today. They are crazy asking that much for mounts.


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## T-MAN

Can you tell me how you installed your rope lights to the hull?


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## Hanr3

T-MAN said:


> Can you tell me how you installed your rope lights to the hull?



I used either 1/2" or 3/4" electrical conduit strap, single hole. Rivited to the hull.


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## T-MAN

thanks!


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## Gators5220

I love the classic look of your boat, it reminds me of the boat I worked all summer saving money for when I was 15. It was a 1962 12ft Sears Jon Boat with a 20hp Johnson from the early 50's and I bought it for 400 and did the same layout you have done on yours for the most part, minus the carpet we just fiberglassed the whole thing. It reminds me of my middle school & high school days which we made around a half a dozen trips to the bahamas in a 12ft boat, 3 guys and no way to contact anyone if we got into trouble. Dumb? Stupid? Crazy? Defentely, but who wasn't when we were young! Thank you for your pictures down memory lane! Love your build classic and well done.


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## charliehawk510

nice rig man. yall guys got me ready to get goin on mine this fall. 8)


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## jvanhees

Looks great! I like the center box for livewell and electrical...which that electrical looks crazy challengeing.


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## Paul_ACL

Hi Hanr3,

Awesome remodel! May I ask what software you used to create your boat layout design?


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## Hanr3

Hello All,

It's been 6 years since I remodeled the boat. Thought I would give an update.
I still use the boat every fishing/camping trip. She has been to Kentucky Lake and Eagle River Wisconsin, plus numerous local lakes and some not so local. Last year was a great snow plowing year so I bought a new sonar unit. I bought a Humminbird 899 SI unit. I have also bought new St. Croix fishing poles over the years. 

As for other modifications, I replaced my trailer bearings this winter, several hinges replaced, installed new LED lights, and installed another keel roller. 

Leaks to report- none.
Electrical circuit- works perfect. I have had roller waves come over the gunwales and been in the boat during a torrential downpour that was so hard you couldn't see anything. Never an electrical problem. That down pour happened during a night fishing tournament and I had to use lightening to navigate. My 2 million candle power flood light gave me nothing more than a wall of lights 3' from the boat that I couldn't see through. When the lightening hit I could see the outline of the lake and could stay on track. One of the reasons for the upgraded sonar unit. The 899 has gps and lights up at night. 

Replaced the group 27 battery in 2013, although I don't remember it. However that is the date on the sticker. 

Replaced the hinges on my live well (Coleman cooler). One finally broke last season.

And I got a new boat cover this winter. Old one had seen better days. 

I also had to replace my trolling motor and gas tank. Both got stolen. Now the tank and motor are locked to the boat, and everything else is unloaded after every trip. I hate thief's.

Latest update is 2 grandsons have been born and a third grandchild is in the oven and due in June. Grandpa needs a bigger boat!!!!
Time to find a 16'-17' long and wide boat that needs remodeled. I want capacity for 6, but 5 would might be okay. This next boat will see trips into Canada with all gear and the family. Been eyeing the Alumacraft Classic and Lund Alaskan for my next boat. I love the size of the live well in the Classic, but also love the flat floor in the Alaskan. I also want a 19 gallon built in gas tank, and lockable storage compartments. I suspect within the next winter of two I will be posting a new project.


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## jasper60103

Glad to hear the update, Hanr3.
I enjoyed following your Mod.
6 years of service is good longevity IMO.
Obviously you did something right. =D> 
Looking forward to your next project, and
congrats on being a grandpa 3x!  

-jasper


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## Hanr3

Thanks Jasper. Your avatar boat pic looks great.

Since that update I bought the LakeMaster AutoChart Pro program. Several of my local lakes are not available on Navionics, LakeMaster, or Hot Spots maps. So I figured I would make my own map for each lake. Got out last weekend to give it a whirl. Awesome!!!

I found all sorts of stuff to check out on future trips. I spent 2 hours going 4mph back and forth over one section of the lake I fish the most, and the surrounding areas. Took me a bit to learn how to make a map, just had to follow the directions. lol 

Now I have a map with all contour lines, holes, flats, bottom hardness, etc. While playing back my sonar recording I also discovered a ton of cover I have never fished before. Once I figure out how to mark spots on the sonar recording and merge my old waypoints onto the new map I'll be fishing those this year. 

I may have an old boat, but don't let looks deceive you. I have more money in my reels than in my boat. More in my rods than in the boat, and several time more in electronics than I do in the boat. :mrgreen: 
The boat and its remodel was the cheap part. 8) 

The best part, the expensive stuff will transfer to the new boat without trouble. :LOL2:


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## bikerider

I like how the middle of the boat is open, plenty of room for gear and to move around comfortably.


----------

