# 1965 evinrude fastwin



## Spidey1984 (Mar 6, 2013)

Hey fellers Ive been Ive been lurking around your forums for a while now looking for answers to my motor questions. Bought this fastwin about a month ago tried my hand at getting it to run with no success. I determined it wasnt getting fire but didnt want to start changing parts. Put the motor in the shop 2 weeks ago and the mechanics cant get it to fire either. They have changed points, condensers, coils and plug wires with no success. They even tried a used flywheel just in case mine was de magnetized still no fire. I ordered a new ignition plate today off of ebay but they dont sound to sure that its going to fix it either. Im no mechanic but to me seems like changing every component that makes fire you would think it would fire. Any ideas you guys might have would be helpfull. Motor has great compression too they say.
Added a pic of boat, cant see motor very good but hey for $600 Im happy with boat and trailer.


----------



## JMichael (Mar 6, 2013)

Are those aluminum mags on the trailer? The boat looks like fiberglass in the pic but it is very dark so can't tell a lot about any of it.


----------



## Spidey1984 (Mar 6, 2013)

Looked like some old ford ranger wheels or something to me. Boat is fiberglass. Its an ole sears gamefisher if you are familliar with those. Boat is in great shape its just in need of a running motor to push it through the water. Ill take some better pics tomorrow. The motor is in the shop as of now waiting for the armature plate to come in. Im skeptical to if that will fix the problem though


----------



## coreyltexas (Mar 6, 2013)

Nice looking little rig! I also got a little boat (2009 Alumicraft 1540 and trailor with 1980 Johnson 25 hp for $500) about a month ago and had the same problem! No spark I found a little outboard motor shop and they found out that it was my power pack. I didnt want to end up replacing all the electrical parts it turned out to be cheaper that way. My suggestion would be to find a manual for your outboard I found one online download for $5. Try googling sevice manuals for your gamefisher there is alot of valuablew information for troubleshooting!!


----------



## JMichael (Mar 6, 2013)

I had a 12' gamefisher that I sold this past spring but it was aluminum. Didn't know they had a fiberglass version. I'm surprised that shop can't figure out what's up with the spark especially since all those parts have been replaced. What year model and hp is that motor?


----------



## Spidey1984 (Mar 6, 2013)

Its a 1965 evinrude fastwin 18hp model number 18502S


----------



## Tusker (Mar 6, 2013)

Have you checked the kill switch/wires?


----------



## Spidey1984 (Mar 6, 2013)

Not sure if they have done that. Its been on my mind though. I read somewhere prolly on here how to check the switch. Didnt want to tell the mechanics how to do their job though.


----------



## Pappy (Mar 8, 2013)

Spidey1984 said:


> Not sure if they have done that. Its been on my mind though. I read somewhere prolly on here how to check the switch. Didnt want to tell the mechanics how to do their job though.


Apparently you need to..........!
If these guys can't fix points and condensors, Lord help them. And you said mechanic(s)? There are more than one of them working on it??
On that engine there is a kill or safety switch. Remove the wire from one side and see if you have spark. Also, where that wire runs up through the base plate and in, around, and under things it can wear through the insulation and ground the ignition system so that needs to be checked as well. If the simple unhooking of it doesn't work an ohmeter will tell you if the wire between the switch and the ignition system is grounded. 
With these guys it would be a good bet they don't own one or know how to use it if they did. 
Good luck!!


----------



## Spidey1984 (Mar 8, 2013)

I have ordered a new ignition plate could the old plate be causing this issue or is this mechanic taking a shot in the dark? If the plate is not going to fix it. Ill go get the motor and test that kill switch, I know my way around a test meter.


----------



## Spidey1984 (Mar 13, 2013)

Well I bought a armature plate off ebay for $36. Dropped it off at the shop with my motor on monday. Hoping 4 some good news any day


----------



## cajuncook1 (Mar 13, 2013)

Spidey 1984, it sounds like the guys that are working on your motor, aren't familiar with your model and age motor!!! A lot of the shops today, don't know how to work on motors older that 20 to 25years old. They have not been trained on them and they don't put much interest in them because they are not money makers for them. Most of the time the cost of the labor is worth more than the engine.

But, let me tell you, that engine you have there is one of the finest motors put out by Evinrude (OMC). The 18hp motors are pretty bullet proof if they are not severely neglected!! They are relatively easily to work on if you have some mechanical abilities and are willing to be patient.

The ignition system on that motor is very common to OMC and is very simple to diagnosis and repair. Pappy is right, it could be as simple as a short in the kill switch which connects to the points and condensers.



Here print this up and give it the "Mechanics" working on your motor!!! I would check into what they are charging you and put a stop to the on going hourly charge because they are going to take you to cleaners and they don't have a good grasp on the situation. They should have been honest up front concerning there ability to work on an older motor that they are not familiar with. At least charge a flat rate fee for their learning curve!!!

Have them test the continuity of the all the wires especially the kill switch wires going the points. Unplug both sets of kill wires from the points and condensers. If spark returns then the kill switch is bad.

*Here is some information that will help you evaluate your ignition system with the flywheel popped off.*


If you don't have a harmonic balance flywheel puller, you can make a flywheel knocker tool. One of our many distinguished member put this tutorial together on how use and make a flywheel knocker to safely remove a flywheel. I have tried and it workings well. I have both the flywheel knocker and harmonic balance flywheel remover.

*Anyway here is the Flywheel knocker tool link.*

https://www.aomci.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1309393684


Your going to need to inspect your point, condenser and coils. They are located under the flywheel. Hopefully all you need to do is clean and regap your points and you might be in business. Still check your coils and condensers and plug wires.






*Here are two link to show you how to test your coils and condensers.*

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KT8rk5QWgS0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6eSXYmENDY




*How to replace your coils, points and condenser.* Please take digital pictures as you go, so it will help you return everything back in the right order. Keep cheap zip lock bags available to put your parts in so you don't lose them. They are small.


Here is a diagram of a generic OMC (Johnson/Evinrudle/Gale) ignition assembly. You will have to remove the coil designated for the top cylinder and put the oil wicker in. It should be already be coated with a very light oil. (not grease). The purpose of the oil wicker is to lightly lubricate the outside riding surface of the cam so the point shoes do not prematurely wear. If you look at the points they have little shoes that ride along the cam. Please make sure the (breaker)points cam is on the correct side or the ignition will be out of timing. It should have the word [highlight]top[/highlight] machine written on the side facing up. 







FYI: You can only set(gap) one set of points at a time. Put the flywheel nut back on(turn with a wrench or ratchet clockwise) to allow you turn the crankshaft. *(Please remove both spark plugs to make it easier to turn the crankshaft and prevent accidental starting) *

You gap the point to 0.020 when the point shoes is at the top(high point of the cam). It should have a mark along with the word top. Then you will turn clockwise to the next set of point 180 degrees and set those points the same way. You will notice that the point of the previous set will be closed and when you come around again they will open up. *** When they are open no current is allow through. This is how you set your timing with the points.*** 

When you go to set the point's gap. Very gently snug the anchor screw, then adjust the gap with adjusting screw and the feeler gauge until the feeler gauge is sliding through with slight resistance only. Then tighten the anchor screw. Repeat procedure with second set of points. Please make sure your hands are clean and the feeler gauge is clean, because oil on the points can foul them up and create resistance....poor or no no spark. ALways use a spark check to evaluate spark. It should jump minimum 1/4 inch. Blue sharp snappy spark.

Here is a picture of a spark check...Cheap $6







Here is a picture of how to tell which wire is going to the correct cylinder. Thanks to Garry for providing the picture on other post.








If your using the existing wires then cut about 1/4 inch of end going the coil, so you have clean un-oxidized copper contacting the spiking in the coil. Twist the end of the spark plug wire onto the coil spike. If you have replaced the wires, make sure they are 7mm copper metal core and not the automobile stuff.

***** Please make sure two things*****

1.) Make sure all the wires are tucked away under the flywheel and not rubbing up against the cam or crank, because with will eventually get damage and create a short, then no spark!! 

2.) Make sure the coil heels (ends) are evenly lined up with the mounting boss.

Here are some pictures. (Compliments of JBJennings..nice fella)











Lining up the coil heel with the mounting boss prevent damage of the coils and the flywheel magnet, prevent rubbing as the flywheel turns.

[highlight]*** Make sure the throttle is advanced to that start position***[/highlight]


Here is another picture that Garry (thanks Garry!!) supplied on another post with some modification.







Both diagrams, should answer your questions.





******Here is a diagram of your ignition plate. Look at items 36, those are the wires that connect to your points and condensers to prevent spark when you are trying to kill the engine. Parts 38 are the connections hanging below the ignition plate on left hand side facing the front of motors. They connect to the wires that lead to kill switch on the face plate in the front of the motor. If that kill switch is bad, it will short the circuit and prevent spark. So, if the "mechanics or you disconnect the wires from the kill switch at part 38, then spark should return if the kill switch is bad. Part 27 in the second diagram is the kill switch. You see it has connector end that clip together with the wires #36 in the first diagram at the end part #38* 

















Good luck!!


----------



## Spidey1984 (Mar 13, 2013)

Wow!!! Thanks.


----------



## Spidey1984 (Mar 21, 2013)

Well got the call today even with the armature plate they cannot get my motor to fire. He said there is a split in the crankshaft where it looks like someone cut off a flywheel at some point and they think this changed the dynamics of the shaft. Sound like this could be a possibilty? Ill pick up the motor tomorrow and Ill ask what all he parts he changed. They are not going to charge me anything for their time.


----------



## Brian B. (Mar 21, 2013)

Find another mechanic, if he can't get a Fastwin to burp he needs to find something else to do.


----------



## acwd (Mar 21, 2013)

I agree with brianb. Too simple not figure out whats wrong.

Steve


----------



## Spidey1984 (Mar 21, 2013)

So you do not think the split in the crankshaft could be a prob? Im gonna use all that info posted above and do my own testing of the coils and condensers and the kill switch when I get her home tomorrow. Any good sites to buy parts from in case i need em?


----------



## acwd (Mar 22, 2013)

Post a pic of this "split" in the crankshaft if you can. Where are ya located? 

Steve


----------



## alanbird_87 (Mar 22, 2013)

Spidey1984 said:


> So you do not think the split in the crankshaft could be a prob? Im gonna use all that info posted above and do my own testing of the coils and condensers and the kill switch when I get her home tomorrow. Any good sites to buy parts from in case i need em?



I have been buying my parts from marineengine.com and boats.net they should have your motor on there as well.


----------



## Spidey1984 (Mar 22, 2013)

Just picked her up from the shop. Ill post a pic of that split tomorrow. And start testing things in the morning.


----------



## Tusker (Mar 22, 2013)

Spidey1984 said:


> Just picked her up from the shop. Ill post a pic of that split tomorrow. And start testing things in the morning.



From what you have been describing I wouldn't be surprised if those jackleg's are the ones who broke it. :mrgreen:


----------



## Spidey1984 (Mar 22, 2013)

Went ahead and took the pic the split was there before they worked on it. I didnt think anything about it when I was messin with it. But I know nothing about boat motors though. So thoughts on the split, is this my problem? If so is this motor worth me getting a crank for it?


----------



## Spidey1984 (Mar 22, 2013)

Few more pics, someone along the the line gave it a paint job


----------



## Brian B. (Mar 24, 2013)

Does the crack. Continue down past the lower bearing surface. (I mean its not good eother way, but we are no talking 300 horse here either)

My gut tells me just find another motor and part that one out though.


----------



## acwd (Mar 24, 2013)

Thats a grinder track. They used a cut off wheel to cut off the flywheel I guess. You can tell it by where they nicked the cam that opens the points (sorry too early in the morning to think of the proper name, need more coffee!) It dont go thru the threads on the end or cant see it because of the nut.

Steve


----------



## acwd (Mar 24, 2013)

I am going to throw this out there. By looking at the pics you posted. The one with the plate and coils and points. By looking at the position of the cam in relation to the points the one set of points should be open a little and they are not. This its what I would do. Turn the crank to where the highest point on the cam connects with the points arm. then set the points gap to 0.020. Then do the other set the same way. This is what I seen in the pic so its just my 2 cents.

Steve


----------



## Brian B. (Mar 24, 2013)

From what I can see on my tiny phone screen if it is a grinder track your mechanic needs to be working at Wally World as a people greeter or cart pusher.. That said, admittedly I can't see much on this little screen


----------



## Spidey1984 (Mar 24, 2013)

The mechanics didnt cut the flywheel off previous owners did. Ill have to pick up some feeler gauges and check those points. Im at work now (big storm here in florida keeping me busy) but i do believe the cut goes down onto the.breaker cam. Ill double check when this storm is done


----------



## acwd (Mar 24, 2013)

Something else that came to mind. Wonder if the flywheel is the right one for the motor? Did the PO have the motor running since they had to cut the flywheel off?

Steve


----------



## Pappy (Mar 25, 2013)

As long as the flywheel has magnets that are magnetized (this is a hint so check this) the spark should occur. Neither the armature plate or the crankshaft has anything to do with it. 
One thing that comes to mind here. See if the points cam says "UP" on the top of it. If this is one of the points cams that can be installed either way the spark will not occur if the cam is upside down. The field will close or collapse too slowly for spark to occur. This is how these engines were kept from running reverse rotation.


----------



## Pappy (Mar 25, 2013)

As long as the flywheel has magnets that are magnetized (this is a hint so check this) the spark should occur. Neither the armature plate or the crankshaft has anything to do with it. The flywheel will control the timing and that could be an issue if it is the incorrect one but it should produce spark.
One thing that comes to mind here. See if the points cam says "UP" on the top of it. If this is one of the points cams that can be installed either way the spark will not occur if the cam is upside down. The field will close or collapse too slowly for spark to occur. This is how these engines were kept from running reverse rotation.


----------



## Spidey1984 (Mar 25, 2013)

I will check that as soon as I get a chance. The mechanic shop tried a diff flywheel as well.


----------



## Spidey1984 (Mar 26, 2013)

I checked today and the top of the cam you can just barley make out the word TOP on it. I remove one of the coils today and found the small wire to be broken in a few places. Surely they would have noticed this since they said they put all new parts on the armature plate?


----------



## Spidey1984 (Mar 26, 2013)

And the other coil tested no good. Ordered new coils and condensers today.


----------



## acwd (Mar 26, 2013)

Points too I hope, might as well have all new stuff unless they already changed them.

Steve


----------



## Spidey1984 (Mar 26, 2013)

Didnt get points but I did find a breaker cam on ebay i bought as well. Mechanics said they put all new parts on and still could not get fire. Guess we will find out what kind of mechanics they are when my parts come in.


----------



## acwd (Mar 27, 2013)

well the didnt put new coils on it. Maybe different ones but not new. That broken wire on that coil you posted a pic of. Got me thinking so I went back and looked at previous pics. I didnt notice it then but I did this morning. The pic of the plate you can see the broken wire at the bottom of the pic. I really doubt that they put any new parts on it. I bet they didnt really want to work on it or they didnt know what they were doing. You can clean the points up with a file and set them and should be good for awhile as long as they arent pitted. 

Steve


----------



## Spidey1984 (Mar 27, 2013)

They took all the parts off that they put on when they still could not get it to fire. Took a few more pics today of the points open I know they prob are not right I will pick up some feeler gauges tomorrow and try to clean them up and get them set right.


----------



## acwd (Mar 27, 2013)

Yeah they are off a little! 

Steve


----------



## Spidey1984 (Mar 27, 2013)

I figured as much. Ill try to get them right tomorrow. I really appreciate all the advice and you guys putting up with me. I new nothing about boat motors going into this and now I feel like I have already learned alot. My parts should be here in a few days and hopefully Ill get some pretty blue spark when I install them


----------



## Pappy (Mar 28, 2013)

Just use a little fine sandpaper on them. No need to use a file!
Clean them afterward.


----------



## acwd (Mar 29, 2013)

This is the file I was talking about. Should have been more clear on that! Sorry for the confusion. They are a great item to keep around. Handy for lots of things. The thin ones are the best.

https://www.sallybeauty.com/Nail-Files/TROPIC4,default,pd.html?cgid=Nail04-01

Steve


----------



## Spidey1984 (Mar 29, 2013)

To my surprise all my parts came in today. Got them on, 2 new coils and 2 new condensors and cleaned up the points. Got one set of points gapped but the other didnt want to adjust open enough for some reason. Put flywheel back on and pull start and still could not get it to fire as far as i could tell anyway, its too sunny and hot to be able to see the spark. I was excited and may have got something wrong. Gonna get some lunch and get back at it.


----------



## Spidey1984 (Mar 29, 2013)

Alright got back at it and i have some spark. With the spark tester in place i could not see spark but I put my finger on it and felt it on both plug wires. Though the motor still did not even try to start after several pulls. The spark didnt feel real strong but then again I dont know how it should feel. Thoughts on this? Did i stop pulling to soon? I see there is some sort of fuel pumper or something, maybe the fuel didnt make it there yet. At least I have spark!!!!!!


----------



## Spidey1984 (Mar 29, 2013)

3rd post in a row lol. So the spark def isnt strong enough. Testing in the dark tonight i cannot see any blue spark but i do feel it when I touch the tester. Not sure y it isnt strong enough. Went ahead and ordered points today and some parts for the carb too. Any Ideas? I put fuel directly in the cylinders and put the plugs back in and pulled and she didnt even hiccup once.


----------



## Pappy (Mar 29, 2013)

You need to route those wires much farther away from the center hub on the flywheel. 
Isn't it amazing that YOU got spark and the "mechanics" didn't ?? Way to go. 
Go back up several posts and look at the diagrams to make sure you have the spacing correct on the coil mounting posts. Too close and the flywheel will hit the coils. Too far away and you lose spark energy.


----------



## acwd (Mar 30, 2013)

Going to ask since I didnt see it posted anywhere. Did they change the plug wires or has someone changed the plug wires? check them and make sure that they are wire core. If they arent wire core replace them with wire core wires.

Steve


----------



## Spidey1984 (Mar 30, 2013)

They are wire core, but that gives me an idea. Doesnt the boot on the plug end come off? Maybe I need to trim the wire on that end as well. Ive got the carb off going to pick up some cleaner and soak it for a bit. Ordered a new float and needle valve kit along with a little plastic piece i broke on the mixture adjustment. Fuel line fell apart as well when I touched it.


----------



## Spidey1984 (Mar 30, 2013)

Played a little today just with the spark. Didnt feel like taking it back apart today. With the plugs out and the spark tester in line I can hold my finger on the spark tester and the spark doesnt knock me down or anything. Should it be that strong that i could not touch it? Ive been hit with a trucks spark b4 and it made me jump out my boots.


----------



## acwd (Mar 31, 2013)

If it dont jump the spark tester then you dont have spark. 

Steve


----------



## Spidey1984 (Mar 31, 2013)

Thanks for the positive reinforcement lol. Im gonna shine the points up some more today and double check the gap again.


----------



## acwd (Mar 31, 2013)

No problem that what we are here for! LOL. Anyways I would check the points again and the ends on the spark plug boots. My 10 hp had these coiled wire end inside the boot. They have a hook that goes in the side of the plug wire to make contact with the core. Well those went in the trash and put different ends on them.

Steve


----------



## Spidey1984 (Mar 31, 2013)

Thats exacly what mine has. Its stranded wire and in the boot end a little spring looking deal that sticks in the side of the wire and the spark plug plugs into that spring deal. Should I trash those? Where can I get better ones?


----------



## acwd (Mar 31, 2013)

I got mine off of a old set of plug wires that I had laying around. You use to be able to get them at Napa.

Steve


----------



## Spidey1984 (Mar 31, 2013)

So any plug wires will do as long as they are 7mm is it? I noticed the wires yesterday and I thought man this seems like junk. Snipped the boot end today and cleaned up the points and still getting weak fire. Guess Ill just wait till the new points come in and find me some plug wires in the mean time.


----------



## Pappy (Mar 31, 2013)

The boot and connector come as a kit from any Johnson/Evinrude dealer. Get the right parts and do the job right the first time. Cut the wire insulation back 1/8" and spread the wire core out like a fan. Use alcohol in the boot after installing the connector on the wire. Will slide right on.


----------



## dkonrai (Apr 1, 2013)

question, did you change the points and condensers? sometimes the condensers seem ok, but if you still dont have spark, then i would suspect the condensers. imho. when i buy coils for a motor, then points and condensers should be replaced at the same time as the coils. 
dino


----------



## Spidey1984 (Apr 1, 2013)

Coils and condensers have been changed. Points will be changed when they come in.


----------



## Spidey1984 (Apr 1, 2013)

Coils, condensers, points cam and plug wires and my fire is still too weak to get it to bust off. Only thing I have not changed are the points and they will be here any day now. Hopefully the points do the trick, Im starting to get a little aggravated pulling on this rope everyday but damn I want to get out on the water. Going to drink some whiskey and clear my head. Whats next?


----------



## Spidey1984 (Apr 1, 2013)

A few pics


----------



## cajuncook1 (Apr 2, 2013)

Your coils wires are going to the wrong set of points and condensers. So, your ignition is not in sync and you won't get spark. I have pointed out where the wires should go. Also one of your coil ground wires should be repositioned (I have have a blue line pointing to the correct spot.)


Also make sure your the spark plugs wires are going to the correct cylinder. Look back at the diagrams I posted earlier and that should help you out. 

*** Make sure you tuck the wires out of the way so they do not become damaged. If they become damaged, then you will have a short in your system and then no spark

You are almost there!! 


Once you have the coils wires position correctly, then you should get a minimum of 1/4 inch spark jump on the spark checker. Nice snappy blue spark!!

I noticed you do not have a oil wicker in place. That helps lightly lubricate the riding surface of the point cam so the points shoes do not prematurely wear out. Go back and look and read the explanations and diagrams I originally posted.



Look, here is a picture of ignition plate, that is how yours should look. See, the orientation of the wires and they are tucked away.












After you have repositioned the wires as indicated, please post another set of pictures so we can make sure all is well!! Want to get you on the water too!!!


----------



## Spidey1984 (Apr 2, 2013)

Well Ill be damned could of swore I checked the pic for that. Now I wish I didnt have to go to work so I could change those around. 8 hrs and counting and hopefully Ill get it fired offf today.


----------



## Spidey1984 (Apr 2, 2013)

Well gentlemen that was it. The coil wires were hooked up to the wrong points. But in my defence they were like that when I bought the motor. Unfortunatley my carb parts have not came in yet so I cant run it at the moment but I put a little fuel directly in the cylinders and she busted off. Hopefully parts will be in tomorrow and if possible ill post a video of it running. Thank you everyone for all your help. Attached original pic of armature plate to show wrong wiring.


----------



## Spidey1984 (Apr 4, 2013)

Got her running pretty steady. Think Ill need a bigger fuel tank, Ive got 3 gallons now but I need to last all day. Again Thanks to everyone who took time to help me out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=imm1Aj-Z1_0


----------



## cajuncook1 (Apr 4, 2013)

Congrats!!!! Yes, you will definitely need a 6 gallon tank. She is running pretty good. I'm going to supply some carburetor setting to help you dial it in a the lake.


*Make sure these are your beginning carburetor settings:*

*These are going to be the initial settings for the carburetor for starting purposes.* Your will later fine tune the settings.

Facing the carburetor you will notice slow speed and idle knob.

- Top needle is your slow idle needle. You will gently turn in (clockwise) until the needle is gently seated..please don't force. Once seated, you will turn out (counter clockwise) the slow idle needle 1 1/2 turns. Leave it there for the time being.

- You do not have a high speed needle. *You have fix high speed jet*. Please, after soaking the carburetor, blow this jet out with compress air.




> (Carburetor Adjustment
> 
> Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently(turn in clockwise), then open 1-1/2 turns(turn out counter clockwise). Do not tighten or force the slow idle needle shut or it may damage the needle.
> 
> ...


----------



## Spidey1984 (Apr 6, 2013)

Took it out in the lake today and it ran horrible. The day before it was running great it seemed. I let it idle for like 30 min and didnt have to touch it. I put it it gear in the bucket and it hesitated a little when I brought rpms up. Today I would have the throttle all the way and it was like idle speed and it was jerking and and shaking. Not sure if its a fuel or fire prob. Wish I would have took a vid of it.. And I def am getting the inside of my boat gel coated, my wife, son and I were itching like crazy afterwards. 

Sometimes the motor would run good and hauled ass so Im thinking more of a fuel problem . Would my points not being gapped right make it run rough?


----------



## cajuncook1 (Apr 6, 2013)

If, it is staring ok and idling ok, then it is fuel delivery issue. 

- trash in high jet circuit
- fuel pump issues ( check the screen for trash if a newer style fuel pump.) Leaking pump diaphragm.
- cracks in fuel lines or loose connections causing poor delivery or introduction of air in lines going to the carburetor and causing issues.

Make sure your link and sync with the carb and cam follower is set correctly.


----------



## Spidey1984 (Apr 7, 2013)

Should of mentioned it throttled up fine in neutral but bogs down under a load.


----------



## Spidey1984 (Apr 7, 2013)

Perhaps my fuel mix was wrong, one of my plugs were black and gummed up a bit. Pic is hard to see but I think the plugs may be fouled out.


----------



## Pappy (Apr 7, 2013)

Not your fuel mix. Those plugs look good, and typical of a two stroke. 
Your engine should be able to run all day long on a 24:1 mix or richer. 
Do what Cajun suggests. Your low speed circuit is fed through the High speed circuit.
If the high speed circuit is partially plugged you will be able to idle but not accelerate under load. 
Also.....another factor to look for. 
When you have the bowl off make sure you see a high speed nozzle gasket there and in place. That will be around the brass "pipe" that extends from the main body down into the bowl.


----------



## Spidey1984 (Apr 9, 2013)

Seems to be running pretty good in my trash can. I pulled the pump apart and there was a little trash in the screen. Was able to tune the carb in a lot easier on shore. Put it in gear and gunned it and ran fine, not sure if pushing the boat will make a diff or not. Im on call this week so cant get back into the water untill next week.


----------



## cajuncook1 (Apr 9, 2013)

Make sure the vent cap on your tank is open, if you have one. If the tank is not vented then it will cause a negative pressure build up and the fuel pump will not be able to siphon the fuel and pump it to the carburetor.


----------



## Spidey1984 (Apr 9, 2013)

Interesting that 3 gallon tank I was using did not have a vent. The 6 gallon I just bought does. Maybe that was it


----------



## Spidey1984 (Apr 16, 2013)

Well the new gas can with vent did not solve the problem. Its weird at my house in a bucket of water it runs fine but as soon as I put it in the lake it runs good for about 2-3 mins then goes to crap from there. I was hoping to avoid taking off the carb again but looks like it will have to be done. I have previously cleaned it and put new seat, valve and float in it. The main fuel line from where the gas tank hooks to motor and runs to the pump is that supposed to be rubber? Mine might of used to be rubber but it feels like a hard plastic. When I get the carb off tomorrow Ill check for that high speed nozzle gasket and replace the main supply fuel line. Any other suggestions?


----------



## DaveInGA (Apr 17, 2013)

I would look at replacing the old fuel lines at this point. From your descriptions it sounds like they are dry rotted. If they're dry rotted, there is a good chance the fuel pump diaphragm may be dry rotted and need rebuilding as well. I just did this on a 86 Merc that had sat for a long time. The fuel lines were dry rotted and the diaphragm in the fuel pump was stiff as a board, preventing the fuel pump from providing enough fuel at high speed due to lack of elasticity in the diaphragm.


----------



## cajuncook1 (Apr 17, 2013)

Spidey,

Go to any auto parts store (Napa, O'Reilys, or AutoZone..etc) and purchase some fuel lines. They are reasonable in price and they are ethanol resistant.

- From the motor's male fuel connector to the fuel pump's nipple use 5/16 fuel line (Please don't let them sell you vacuum hose)
- From the fuel pump nipple going to the carburetor use 3/16 fuel line (Please don't let them sell you vacuum hose).

If after you have changed the hoses and put hose clamps back on and the motor is still running poorly, then you may have investigate the fuel pump.

At idling and lower ranges it maybe just functional enough to supply adequate fuel but at high speeds, it may not be able to supply enough fuel. The diaphragm maybe worn or have tiny tare or hole prevent proper fuel delivery.

Try this, while you are slowly opening up the throttle out on the water, if the motor starts to decelerate or run poorly, then squeeze the fuel hose bulb (primer bulb). If your motor starts to accelerate are improves running, then you probably have a bad or worn fuel pump.

*** Just to make sure. Look at your fuel line bulb, does direction of the arrow on the bulb point the direction of the fuel flow to the motor? If it does not, then change it around, it can affect your fuel delivery.


Also check your link and synch with your carburetor's cam follower. See the diagrams below for understanding.


----------



## Spidey1984 (Apr 17, 2013)

Thanks once again cajun. I did notice when it started running badly I squeezed the primer bulb and it was soft not firm so perhaps something is wrong with the pump. I have cleaned the screen on the fuel filter b4 but thats as far as I went into the pump. Wasnt sure what else to look for. I have replace the fuel line from pump to carb but not from the fitting to the pump. If I get time tomorrow Ill try to get to it ( it is the last few days of spring gobbler season).


----------



## cajuncook1 (Apr 17, 2013)

Spidey, just to make sure of something. Did you at anytime check the if was any oil in the lower unit or at least check the condition of the oil in the lower unit. If there is no oil, for what ever reason, then it can be damaging your gears and causing binding. 

Check the lower unit oil and see if there is any and the condition. If there is water, rust or metal bits, then there could be other issues rather than the carb.

****This is just a what if******

Please send me a PM with your email address and I will send something to you that will help you along.


----------



## Spidey1984 (May 1, 2013)

I have only had a few minutes to work on the motor. No news to report. When I rev it up then bring it back down it seems to stick for a moment then finally idles down. Not sure if thats just normal for an older motor or not. I did get a gel coat put in my boat and it looks awesome. The armature plate at one point seemed to turn to far and the linkage keeps comming undone, prolly just worn out


----------



## Spidey1984 (May 21, 2013)

Motor is still not running right. Took it out the other day and at full throttle it was bogged down then all of a sudden it sputters and jerks and the rpms come up and we start hauling ass then when I throttle down then back to full it bohs down then all of sudden a few spits and pops and ass hauling begins again. Any ideas?


----------



## Swampfox88 (May 22, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=314298#p314298 said:


> Spidey1984 » Yesterday, 21:44[/url]"]Motor is still not running right. Took it out the other day and at full throttle it was bogged down then all of a sudden it sputters and jerks and the rpms come up and we start hauling ass then when I throttle down then back to full it bohs down then all of sudden a few spits and pops and ass hauling begins again. Any ideas?




Seems like you have become a real outboard mechanic on this one lol thanks for the inspiration to keep fighting these things. Seems like you have had a ton of info from this site too that's great to see.


----------



## CompleteIdiot (Jul 16, 2014)

Removed, instead of thread jacking, I decided to make another thread. Good luck getting yours fixed! Yay!


----------

