# What do you think of these wheels/hubs, do I need to replace



## Hydrilla (Oct 6, 2009)

Some of you know I'm doing a 1436 build. Here is a close-up of a trailer wheel- I'm not familiar with this type of hub, are they decent or do I need to look into replacing them? Or am I ok to just clean them up, paint them and make sure the bearings are ok?


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## Specknreds (Oct 6, 2009)

Jack the trailer up and see if there is any slack in the bearings. 

One huge piece of advice is if your in doubt about bearings CHANGE THEM. They are pretty cheap and it sure beats being broke down on the side of the road. I put over way over 2000 miles a year on my boat trailer and I change them twice a year. This is excessive but I do not want to break down on the side of the road. I have been there, done the broke down on the side of the road thing and I didn't enjoy it at all.


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## countryboy210 (Oct 6, 2009)

I Agree w/ Specknreds, Swap Them Out With New Ones. They Are Dirt Cheap, Get Two Sets Now And You Will Have A Ready Spare For The Next Time. But Also, Get Some Bearing Buddys, Or Grease Caps At Least To Cover And Dress Up Their Appearance.


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## Hydrilla (Oct 6, 2009)

Good tips guys. I forgot to add that the cotter pin wasn't sticking out like that, I removed it before taking the pic, of course. So replacing the bearings and possibly just putting a dust cover on them might be ok..? I've just always had the bearing buddy type and didn't know if this kind I've got now was any good or not.

One more question- if the tires are dry rotted, is it typically more cost effective to get new rims with tires on them, or get tires mounted on existing rims? The kind I have look like ones I've seen for $50 each including the rim and tire, and mine aren't in that great shape- both need painted and one has a pretty good dent in it.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Oct 6, 2009)

I bought tires on rims, I'm using the old ones as spares. I did put tubes in them.


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## Crankworm (Oct 6, 2009)

Did the trailer come without any kind of dustcap or nothing? :shock: I couldn't imagine the mess of running around without some kind of cover. Just my .02 but it would probably be cheaper in the long run to replace bearings now instead of on the side of the highway.


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## danmyersmn (Oct 7, 2009)

Crankworm said:


> Did the trailer come without any kind of dustcap or nothing? :shock: I couldn't imagine the mess of running around without some kind of cover. Just my .02 but it would probably be cheaper in the long run to replace bearings now instead of on the side of the highway.



I don't think anyone can give you a good answer to what the bearing look like until you tear it apart. Its easy to do and cleaning and repacking bearings is a job that will take less then an hour to do. To me it looks like someone used the wrong type of lubricant and tried to apply it without taking the bearing apart. Perhaps they where grinding or rubbing and someone tried to dump some 30wt oil on them and it spun out. Either way, tear them down and repack them. Its a maintenance task that should be done anyway.


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## Hydrilla (Oct 7, 2009)

No doubt I'll be replacing the bearings, I'm not going to bother with repacking them or anything. The trailer didn't have dust caps on the hubs, it doesn't surprise me since it is registered as a homemade trailer (the tongue isn't the original one that was on this trailer). Here's what I think I'm going to do based on your feedback and my research- buy 2 new wheels/tires, and clean up/paint the current wheel I have that isn't bent, and mount it as a spare, for now. If I'm able to replace the bearings and I don't find any other issues, I'll keep these hubs and spray them with some rust neutralizing paint once I get them cleaned up and the bearings switched, and then slap some dust caps on them. I still prefer the bearing buddy type hubs, and will probably get those as finances allow. I'll also eventually replace the spare wheel with one that has a tire that isn't dry rotted. This one isn't bad, I'm sure it will be fine as a spare for a while.

I've got a Tractor Supply store 5 minutes from my house, I'll stop by there and see what they have in stock.


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## Loggerhead Mike (Oct 7, 2009)

the bearing buddys are just a glorified dust cap w/ a spring to keep pressure on the grease and a nipple to filler up. you can find them on the internet for pretty cheap (less than 20), or the parts store where you'll be getting your bearings may have some or be able to order them. i'd get some since your rebuilding the hubs anyways

when you take those bearings out clean the grease off. check for pitting or shiny flakes on the rollers of the bearing. the pitting will usually tell you the degree of wear, and the shiny is usually a result of over heating

dont forget the new seals and races, let us know how she turns out


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## Hydrilla (Oct 7, 2009)

Um yeah... I'm thinking replacing the whole shootin' match is my best bet, what do y'all think of this pic? #-o 

Got one of the hubs off, the other one is being reeeally stubborn so I put some PB Blaster on it, and I'll try again tomorrow. I assume you have to use a puller or something to get the bearings out, and I don't have one.


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## Bugpac (Oct 8, 2009)

the bearings will tap out with a hammer...


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## rick50 (Oct 9, 2009)

I may be a little late with this post, but i usually use a hammer and a brass punch to knock the cup of the bearing out. I try not to use a steel punch, because it will burr up the inside of the hub.

I take the hub and using the punch and hammer, tap on the cup on the bottom first( there won t be much to hit on, just a little shoulder and just work my way around the inside hitting on one side and then the opposite, it usually comes out.


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## Mike Redmond (Oct 10, 2009)

Ive been looking at the pic you sent, and the set up is the same as mine,regarding the way the axle is bolted to the springs.I beleive your axle is square ,is it a 1 1/4 axle by any chance,I had to get rid of mine cause the axle was bent,I simply bought a new axle and hubs attached($118. up here in Canada )are your springs centered at 46inches?Just curious, because I bought mine used at a dealership and it was described as( brand unknown), it is also a tilt trailer ,would really like to know the maker or brand of that trailer,thanks.Mike


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## Hydrilla (Oct 10, 2009)

Yep, it's got a square axle, I forgot to measure the size of it but it looks to be about 1 1/4, it's pretty small. Wish I knew the manufacturer too.



Mike Redmond said:


> Ive been looking at the pic you sent, and the set up is the same as mine,regarding the way the axle is bolted to the springs.I beleive your axle is square ,is it a 1 1/4 axle by any chance,I had to get rid of mine cause the axle was bent,I simply bought a new axle and hubs attached($118. up here in Canada )are your springs centered at 46inches?Just curious, because I bought mine used at a dealership and it was described as( brand unknown), it is also a tilt trailer ,would really like to know the maker or brand of that trailer,thanks.Mike


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## Hydrilla (Oct 13, 2009)

So Friday or Saturday I'm wanting to go to Northern Tool or somewhere like that, and buy some new hub/bearing sets. I was thinking about something like these, but I want to be sure I'm buying the right thing. The axle shaft is 1" in diameter, and it's not tapered or anything. The axle itself is square. Do I just find a set of these that has 1" bearings in it? Is it that simple, or is there anything else I need to consider? I assume I would still need to use my existing castle nuts since it doesn't look like these come with one?

https://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200334734_200334734

I know this isn't the right size or the same lug count as I currently have, I'm just posting this as an example. My local store had quite a few of these in stock.


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## Hydrilla (Oct 18, 2009)

I went to get new hubs and wheels, and realized that the ones I was going to buy at Northern Tool will not work. My axle spindle is 1" in diameter, and only 2" long, so these types of hubs won't work. If anyone can look at this pic of my hub and shed some light on this, I'd appreciate it. If I'm able to get the bearings out and get these cleaned up, I'm ok with keeping these versus getting new ones.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Oct 18, 2009)

I'd head over to Napa with those.


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## Hydrilla (Oct 18, 2009)

I don't think the bearings are coming out of these hubs. I have removed as much as I'm able, nothing else seems to be able to be removed. Almost like the bearings and hubs are all one unit. The ball bearings are accessible, yes they are ball bearings and not rollers, but again nothing else seems removable. The bearings don't even go all the way around, they fill up about 3/4 of the track. Here's a pic of how it looks now. I'm done mucking with it, I'm going to call one of the online trailer superstores tomorrow, and hope that given the spindle length/diameter, and the current hub width, they can sell me some hubs.


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## moonfish (Oct 19, 2009)

just buy a new axle. it doesn't look like that thing has any seals on it? the hubs and spindles on a "regular" boat trailer are replaceable so you don't get so busted down with no way to fix.


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## danmyersmn (Oct 19, 2009)

I agree. If I had to mail-order parts to put my hub back together I would want to replace it with something I could fix by running over to a local store and lose only an hour or two of fishing instead of an entire day or weekend. It may cost a little more up front to replace the axles but if you seize up the bearings one day you will be glad you can source replacements locally.


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## Hydrilla (Oct 19, 2009)

So assuming Northern Tool has an axle that's the right length for my boat, is it as simple as removing the U bolts and swapping the old one with the new? Looks to me like the current one is just connected with U bolts. If it's this simple, and if I can use one of the $52.99 axles from Northern Tool, then this is a no brainer for me. Like you said, just having a standard length spindle would be worth it I think.


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## Hydrilla (Oct 19, 2009)

Here's a better pic of my axle, might help someone better answer my question. I now know the different measurements you're supposed to take when replacing a trailer. I guess the only thing I need to know now is if I attach it with just U bolts, which is how mine appears to be attached.


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## russ010 (Oct 19, 2009)

check these guys out... they may be able to help you. Also tell them that you learned of them from tinboats.net

https://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/


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## danmyersmn (Oct 19, 2009)

Hydrilla said:


> Here's a better pic of my axle, might help someone better answer my question. I now know the different measurements you're supposed to take when replacing a trailer. I guess the only thing I need to know now is if I attach it with just U bolts, which is how mine appears to be attached.



Yes attach it with just u-bolts. I would replace the u-bolts at the same time since your going to have them off. The way they are on your trailer I would want to use nylock nuts or lock washers and probably red locktite as well.


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## Hydrilla (Oct 19, 2009)

Thanks guys. I'm about to back up and punt on the trailer restore part of my project. The overall length of the axle is 57" (close to that, anyway- just had my wife measure), and nobody locally carries one that size, or close to it, really- not that is the type I need anyway. That means ordering one. I gotta think about the cost of this. New axle, new hubs, new wheels, jackstand, winch... I know for a fact I can get a decent trailer that needs very little/nothing for what I'm putting into this one. I am thinking about listing this one on CL and just finding a used one for sale.


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## danmyersmn (Oct 19, 2009)

Another option might be to hunt around until you find a hub like that one you have and buy 3 of them. Then if you have some sort of failure you have a replacement.


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## danmyersmn (Oct 19, 2009)

Try this place.
https://trailerpartsexpress.com/store/idlerhubassem.html

It looks like the BT8 hub is what your looking for? $18 each and a spare hub would be pretty cheap vs. a new trailer. I bet if you call them with measurements you have they will know what you need.


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## Hydrilla (Oct 19, 2009)

OK I got over my "moment" and am back at it. I went to Northern Tool after work, and while their square galvanized axle is longer, it's not by that much. The wheels will end up sitting about an inch, maybe a little more, further out than with the old axle. I went ahead and bought it. I'll need to do a few things- pick up some longer U bolts because this axle is slightly larger in diameter than my old one, drill new holes in the axle since the current ones are too wide apart, and then figure out if I need to seal the holes with anything after drilling- I seem to remember reading that it will rust if you drill holes in something that's been galvanized. Also I'm pretty sure that I'm going to need to cut off my current fenders and either get some wider ones, or figure out a way to space them further out from the sides of the trailer.

EDIT: One more thing it looks like I am going to have to do is cut off/grind the U bolt plates on top, since I'm having a hard time finding anyone who carries my size of U bolts, which is around 2 3/4" wide.


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## danmyersmn (Oct 20, 2009)

I have moments like that too. You want to pitch your project and buy a better new project. Then you realize the new one is going to come with baggage too. If you sourced the axle at Northern, I would think they have u-bolts for it? 

Looking at the pic of your current axle it does not appear that you have any holes in the axle? Isn't it mounted to the springs by the pressure of the u-bolts holding it in place? Did you go with a different type of axle?

If you drill new holes you can spray them with zinc galvanizing compound (rattle can $5 just about anywhere) and then paint them with whatever your painting the trailer with.


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## Hydrilla (Oct 20, 2009)

Thanks as always for the info, you've been very helpful. The original axle did have holes that just held it in place on a stud that sticks out below the leaf springs. It's just under 1/2" so I'll measure carefully, drill new holes, and coat the holes with that stuff you mentioned. Northern Tool did have plenty of U-bolts but I bought the wrong ones. I didn't realize the plate was welded on/not easily removed. I don't think it's a big deal to go with a similar size, grind off the existing plates and just add ones that match whatever U-bolts I'm using. Sounds much easier than trying to find a match.


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## danmyersmn (Oct 20, 2009)

Oh, I know what you are saying. The springs has a bolt through it to hold all the leaf's in place. The bolt head goes into a hole on the axle shaft to keep the shaft centered on the leaf's. I thought you where referring to spring perch mounts. When I put a new 8 3/4" rear differential under my '67 barracuda I had to grind off the perches and reweld them in a new location. At least you don't have that hassle 

I don't think that plate will be welded to the springs. By applying heat to the spring to weld the plate on it would alter the non-scientific term coming: "springiness" of the spring. It might be rusted in place. Try banging it with a hammer and see if it pops off.

The protection paint might be referred to as "cold galvanizing compound" as well. Lowes, Home Depot, Napa, probably Northern too.


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## danmyersmn (Oct 20, 2009)

Looking at that pic again it looks like maybe the head of the bolt through the leaf is on top and the nut and bolt shaft are out the bottom? That might be how the u-bolt plate is attached. It might be welded to the bolt? Either way, I am confident it is not going to be welded to the spring itself. You will find out easy enough as you start tearing it apart.


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## shizzy77 (Oct 20, 2009)

is there a spring shop or truck shop nearby? many of them can make up a set of U bolts quite cheap.


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## Hydrilla (Oct 20, 2009)

The plates popped off very easily. I was able to mark and drill the axle, and it fits on the studs under the leaf springs. Of course the set of U bolts and plates that Northern Tool said would fit my setup does not. The U bolts are too short. Instead of one U bolt per side, I went with the square plates and two U bolts per side. Back to the store tomorrow I guess.


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## danmyersmn (Oct 21, 2009)

cool, your almost there. A bit more work and you'll have shiny new rolling assembly under your trailer that will last a long long time! It looks like your fenders are welded to a piece of bar stock that is bolted to the trailer? You could replace those bolts with longer ones and space that flat bar stock away from the trailer frame an 1" - 1 1/2" with stacked up washers. You will have have a gap between that bar stock and the trailer but it would allow you to move the fenders out and be done with it. Then you could come back to the fenders at another time if you didn't like the "look" or when you want to spend more time/energy/$ on the project. Maybe even cut the bar stock so that it is only an inch or so out the front and back of the fender. I can't see from the one pic any reason that the bar stock needs to be so long out the front and back of the fender? Is it one long piece? Perhaps you could move the two bolts inside of the fender and space it out using longer bolts and washers and cut it flush with the fender front/back?


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## Hydrilla (Oct 21, 2009)

Yep, it's one piece. Didn't think about spacing it, that's a good idea. You just saved me from cutting the fenders off, I think I should try your suggestion before I resort to that. Not sure why the bar would need to be as long as it is, I need to look at it when I get home.


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## Hydrilla (Oct 22, 2009)

Made a lot of progress tonight. I found a place in Winston Salem (near my work) called Auto Spring, they are a really good fabrication shop. A guy made up the U-bolts I needed to fit the plates I already have, in just a few minutes while I waited. 

I now have the axle on, new hubs from Northern Tool, and new wheels. There are only a couple of issues left- the fender clearance, and the cheesy, non fitting dust covers that come with the Reliable brand hubs sold by Northern Tool. Unfortunately the bar stock that the fenders are welded to is more than just holding the fender on, it wraps underneath, and is also what the leaf springs are connected so. So it looks like cutting the fenders off and welding on new ones is going to be the way to go. This doesn't concern me in the least. In the mean time, I've bent the outside lip of the fender out with some pliers so they won't rub the tires.

As to the dust covers, I'm gonna get some bearing buddies. This thing is starting to look like a trailer, I think I'm over the hump. Muchas gracias.


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