# 2.5 hp Mercury starting problems



## senkosam (Oct 20, 2022)

First off I paid too much for the motor. Second, I trusted the name. I had no idea that the motor would be difficult to start after the first time without following specific guidelines - namely: do not choke or the motor will flood. When the motor floods, the gas is trapped with nowhere to go and must evaporate to disappear. Single-cylinder motors have the same problem starting if not done correctly. Of course, the owner's manual says nothing about starting a cold motor started less than an hour before.

All of the above is the advice and facts given to me by my outboard motor mechanic. The first time I brought the motor to him, parts inside the carburetor were melted because the bucket of water I was trying to start the motor in didn't have enough water in it. The job cost around $200. The second repair was for the same thing though I forget what I did wrong. That cost around $300 to fix.

I'm afraid to try the motor again on the lake, worried it won't start after the first time resulting in me rowing a mile back to the launch.


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## airshot (Oct 20, 2022)

I have the same model but older 2.2 hp model. Starts on second pull unless I do something wrong. Cant blame the motor for your own faults and not following instructions. Yes...it can be quite expensive to learn some lessons, I am sure we have all done it !!! If the carb is set up properly, and compression is good, starting should not be an issue. These little motors are made by Tohatso and have a very good reputation from my research. Mine is an awesome little motor !! I use it on my 12' jon boat and as a trolling kicker on my 16' side console. Runs for almost 6 hrs on a gallon of gas....dead idle can be a little shakey being a single cylinder, but up at half throttle where I troll at it is quite smooth. I think your motor needs a good thorough go thru to get " everything" set up properly !! If you have to much invested then consider it a life lesson and look for one in better condition..


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## senkosam (Oct 20, 2022)

The motor was bought this year and hasn't been used except for a few outings where it wouldn't start the second time. No fun having to use the trolling motor to get back to the launch 1/2 mi. away. I was told to not choke the motor even after 30 minutes and that it should start. We'll see.


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## Lowrider1 (Oct 21, 2022)

*I have the old 3.3 hp Merc and the first time each Spring or whenever the first start of the season happens I shoot a short squirt of "starting fluid" in the direction of the carb and it starts easily and thereafter all Summer. I think there must be an accumulation of oil or gunky stuff (not further identified but may come from the corn being burned in the E10 gas) that is on the spark plug while sitting for months and the starter fluid does just the right thing to get an adequate spark to get things working. Worth a try.*


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## senkosam (Oct 21, 2022)

Will consider using starter fluid. Have yet to put in Stabil for the winter.


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## DaleH (Oct 21, 2022)

senkosam said:


> ... the owner's manual says nothing about starting a cold motor started less than an hour before.



To start a flooded OP, close the choke so it is OFF. Open the throttle full, wide open and crank. That'll dump the fuel out and she should start within a full pulls.



senkosam said:


> All of the above is the advice and facts given to me by my outboard motor mechanic. The first time I brought the motor to him, parts inside the carburetor were melted because the bucket of water I was trying to start the motor in didn't have enough water in it. The job cost around $200.



IMHO you need both a new mechanic and to get your $$ back .... he raped you!

I've never seen melted parts in a carb, from over-heating, as low water for the OB would result in the powerhead getting hot due to lack of cooling water. To then get a carb hot enough where its internal parts melted, the powerhead would have to have been glowing red hot. The only thing I can think of is that someone did use a ton of too aggressive starting fluid and that solvent 'dissolved' the parts. IMHO starting fluids should never be used in OBs.

If a powerhead overheats you can blow a head gasket. Look around the head for evidence of leaks. A warped head could leak and you lose compression, which makes starting hard, if not possible. A slightly warped head cover can be fixed by a DIY'r, when reinstalled with a new gasket.



senkosam said:


> The second repair was for the same thing though I forget what I did wrong. That cost around $300 to fix.



*Ouch ...*

_VERY sorry to hear you have these issues! _$500 on top of a motor you already bought ... hurts! If you were nearby I'd fix it for you ... for free.

Please make SURE you have the proper sparkplug and that it is gapped properly. That is typically the easiest thing to check/fix that can cause hard starting. Good luck!


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## senkosam (Oct 21, 2022)

Wish we lived closer. Will try your full throttle open next time - maybe this week at the lake. Thanks for your input.


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## Stand Up (Oct 22, 2022)

senkosam said:


> First off I paid too much for the motor. Second, I trusted the name. I had no idea that the motor would be difficult to start after the first time without following specific guidelines - namely: do not choke or the motor will flood. When the motor floods, the gas is trapped with nowhere to go and must evaporate to disappear. Single-cylinder motors have the same problem starting if not done correctly. Of course, the owner's manual says nothing about starting a cold motor started less than an hour before.
> 
> All of the above is the advice and facts given to me by my outboard motor mechanic. The first time I brought the motor to him, parts inside the carburetor were melted because the bucket of water I was trying to start the motor in didn't have enough water in it. The job cost around $200. The second repair was for the same thing though I forget what I did wrong. That cost around $300 to fix.
> 
> I'm afraid to try the motor again on the lake, worried it won't start after the first time resulting in me rowing a mile back to the launch.


I'm not sure what happened to screw the whole thing up, but maybe try one on these next time you start the motor out of water.


https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004LR9SDI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## airshot (Oct 22, 2022)

Check your compression before trying the motor again. No sense going further if compression is low. Then find another mechanic, or learn to do these things yourself. Many bad mechanics have turned people away from boating and motors, when they try to pull the wool over folks faces !!!


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## senkosam (Oct 23, 2022)

How to check compression?


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## airshot (Oct 25, 2022)

senkosam said:


> How to check compression?


A compression tester is needed, fits in the spark plug hole, turn engine over 3-4 times then read the gage. Look up compression specs forb that engine and compare to your gage.


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## senkosam (Oct 25, 2022)

Thanks I'll get one.


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## senkosam (Nov 6, 2022)

Dale. you're a peach of a guy and the information came in *very very useful!!!*
And guess what, it worked like a charm!!!

I started the motor and let it idle in a high bucket full of water, shut it down and 10 min. later started it again - no choke. It was laid on the ground (with handle up as the manual insisted), remounted and tried to start it again - again *no* choke. *No go.*

Then I followed your suggestion and put the throttle at near 1/2 and *BANG! *it started on the first pull!!! I let it sit for 2 hours in the rain with vent cap closed, opened the cap and it started with *1/4 throttle* on the first pull and *every time* after after that. The rpms at idle were at minimum with an even put-put, with water going back into the high bucket. *No choke at all* *for any restart* after the very first start. 

Too bad the Merc manual said nothing about the throttle used to increase air flow for restarts and* not* use the choke once started and run for a few minutes. The tiny _restart band _on the throttle was nowhere near enough for what was needed to restart after 30 min. 
Also, good thing I don't need to put in non-ethanol gas as the manual says. A *fuel stabilizer* should be enough - right? Non-ethanol gas is over $4/ gal.!

Now, if only you could suggest a way to avoid the backache lifting the 50 lb.s on and off the transom and into the truck bed!!!

Thanks everyone for your suggestions. At one time or another, in a few years, I will need most of them. 

If I hadn't got it started, I was considering a *5hp,* *48v electric motor, *but I couldn't find 48v batteries that weren't double the cost of the motor. The battery weight alone would have killed me!


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## richg99 (Nov 7, 2022)

Dale is a VERY smart guy. I listen to him. 

It's funny that many outboard motors have their own little idiosyncrasies. Once learned, they behave. 

I had a 50 hp Johnson that wouldn't start without simply tilting it back a bit. My mechanic explained how gravity and the carburetor system that to work. Duhhh.


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## senkosam (Nov 7, 2022)

richg99 said:


> It's funny that many outboard motors have their own little idiosyncrasies. Once learned, they behave.


So so true!
This is the first gravity-feed gas motor I've ever owned, my previous motot a 90hp with an external tank that is primed using a squeeze bulb. Bet the motor starts this morning minus choke. If not, no choke from then on restart. Too bad the wind will be a problem today. I'm dying to _zoom _across the water given the small hp limiting going on-plane LOL.


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## airshot (Nov 7, 2022)

Wow 50 lbs ?? I have the 2.2 hp 2 stroke that only weighs 30 lbs...mine runs like a top.


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## DaleH (Nov 7, 2022)

A typo???? ( … on the 2.5 weight)

FYI, if that 2.5hp has a ‘restrictor plate’ behind the carb, check to see what the same vintage 3.5 or 4hp models use for a restrictor plate. I’ve turned many a 2 to 2.5 into a higher HP motor by this simple change.

But ALWAYS go by model numbers and double-check to make sure they both use the same carb assembly!


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## senkosam (Nov 7, 2022)

If I found out that info, I wouldn't know what to do with it. The guy who fixed the motor ain't cheap and he's the only one that would be able to install the new part. Again, thanks for the help and I too wish we lived closer!


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## Texas Prowler (Nov 8, 2022)

These little mercs are a breeze to work on. Very simple motors. I got my 4hp not running, then used a ball hone to deglaze the cylinder. Installed new piston rings, Chris Carlson Reed valves- behind the carb and a 5hp carb. Runs like butter. Easy job. All you need is the will and a socket set.


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## senkosam (Nov 8, 2022)

Texas Prowler said:


> All you need is the will and a socket set.


....and the_ skill and experience_ to go with it!
I do routine maintenance on my John Deere riding mower and small mower - same thing for my 1995 Silverado, but that's it. Beyond that, I pay the very high cost of repairs i.e. the 2.5hp.


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## richg99 (Nov 8, 2022)

richg99 said:


> Dale is a VERY smart guy. I listen to him.
> 
> It's funny that many outboard motors have their own little idiosyncrasies. Once learned, they behave.
> 
> I had a 50 hp Johnson that wouldn't start without simply tilting it back a bit. My mechanic explained how gravity and the carburetor system needed that to work. Duhhh.


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## Texas Prowler (Nov 8, 2022)

senkosam said:


> ....and the_ skill and experience_ to go with it!
> I do routine maintenance on my John Deere riding mower and small mower - same thing for my 1995 Silverado, but that's it. Beyond that, I pay the very high cost of repairs i.e. the 2.5hp.


Well there's not much talent or experience needed to take these apart. Just a manual/ or parts diagram and keep track of parts. Lol It's just that easy.

It was my first time lol and it's been 7yrs. Motor still runs like butter.


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## senkosam (Nov 8, 2022)

Texas Prowler said:


> keep track of parts


Ah yes. keeping track of parts. Not possible with my lack of short-term memory.


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## Ironhorse2022 (Nov 9, 2022)

If you do your own maintenance on mowers and vehicles, I bet you have the skills to start learning how to maintain these simple machines. Of course, not everybody wants too and that’s cool too. It’s just there’s a real sense of accomplishment and independence that comes from being able to do certain tasks on your own (not to mention huge $$ savings). For me, I have to get over the fear that I’m going to destroy something because I’ve not done it before. Not saying that hasn’t happened but it’s yet to happen to the extent I couldn’t fix it with new parts. Even when that goes wrong, the added cost of the new part is usually still less than paying someone to fix it for me. My unrequested advice would be to get a good service manual, read up on the repair ie carb ID and restrictor plate, and then talk it thru with the guys on this forum. They’ll help you thru the repair process and you’ll have a win under your belt. Next time, you’ll feel a little more confident and it just keeps getting easier. At least that’s been my experience. Certainly, there may be times when paying someone to fix it is the smart move (like in the middle of fishing season when you want it done fast or specialized tools are required). Enjoy that little motor - it’s a good one once you get used to it and any bugs worked out.


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## senkosam (Nov 9, 2022)

Thanks IH !
My problem mostly is _reassembling_ the parts I just took apart. It happened with a Daiwa reel that had an anit-reverse problem. It took me forever to get it back together not to mention the tiny parts requiring tweezers to hold them. 

_Calibration _is also what I'm worried about when it comes to motors. Maybe what you suggest doesn't require too much of it, but the idea of the frustration of it not being done right discourages the attempt.

5hp might be a bit too powerful for a 12' jon boat don't you think?


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## Stand Up (Nov 9, 2022)

Ironhorse2022 said:


> If you do your own maintenance on mowers and vehicles, I bet you have the skills to start learning how to maintain these simple machines. Of course, not everybody wants too and that’s cool too. It’s just there’s a real sense of accomplishment and independence that comes from being able to do certain tasks on your own (not to mention huge $$ savings). For me, I have to get over the fear that I’m going to destroy something because I’ve not done it before. Not saying that hasn’t happened but it’s yet to happen to the extent I couldn’t fix it with new parts. Even when that goes wrong, the added cost of the new part is usually still less than paying someone to fix it for me. My unrequested advice would be to get a good service manual, read up on the repair ie carb ID and restrictor plate, and then talk it thru with the guys on this forum. They’ll help you thru the repair process and you’ll have a win under your belt. Next time, you’ll feel a little more confident and it just keeps getting easier. At least that’s been my experience. Certainly, there may be times when paying someone to fix it is the smart move (like in the middle of fishing season when you want it done fast or specialized tools are required). Enjoy that little motor - it’s a good one once you get used to it and any bugs worked out.



I use my camera to take pictures of things before, during and after the repair. This helps in case you forgot how it looked beforehand. That's good advice @Ironhorse2022 That is how I learned to repair motorcycles.


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## Texas Prowler (Nov 9, 2022)

senkosam said:


> Ah yes. keeping track of parts. Not possible with my lack of short-term memory.


Hey don't mind me. I am just trying to motivate you and let you know you can do anything you put your mind to. Literally...

Seem that diy has become thing of the past. These days everyone directs a person to someone who can make the repair vs empowering. 

You may not feel the desire to take on the task, just know it's easy. Like I would not pay a shop easy. So easy a kindergarten kid could knock it out in a day. 

Hp to weight ratio. Let's say the 2.5 and 3 share the same engine block. The difference is likely the carb and the reeds plates behind the carb, which you would swap for the next up and be done.

Now if the 2.5 shared the same engine block as the 4 or 5hp you would still swap the same parts and not gain any weight. 

Ultimately you would make the most of what you have without any detrimental side effects. 

Tuning. Simple idle a/f screw. Not much to it.

Peace be with you.


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## Ironhorse2022 (Nov 9, 2022)

Yup, a camera is my friend during disassembly. Never think I’m going to need them but always glad I have them after the fact. 

As far as worrying about it doing it correctly, I’ve realized over time that my work with proper supervision (such as this forum) is much more reliable that most “mechanics” these days. Not to say there aren’t gift mechanics but often, it’s somebody of questionable training going as fast as he can because there’s a pile of motors behind yours.


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## RaisedByWolves (Nov 9, 2022)

senkosam said:


> Ah yes. keeping track of parts. Not possible with my lack of short-term memory.


Here’s a tip for taking apart and reassembling almost anything.

Get yourself a decent sized piece of cardboard and mark off numbered boxes with a marker.

As you disassemble the item poke the bolts removed through the cardboard in a numbered box in the order you removed them, then place the part removed in the next box.

Having done this, reassembly is a simple matter as you just take the part from the highest numbered square and the bolts from the next lower numbered square and reassemble the item.

Learned this in tech school and disassembled and reassembled an automatic transmission before I was even able to spell transmission.


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## senkosam (Nov 9, 2022)

Texas Prowler said:


> So easy a kindergarten kid could knock it out in a day.


You _suggesting _I don't have the brain of a kindergarten kid?


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## Texas Prowler (Nov 9, 2022)

senkosam said:


> You _suggesting _I don't have the brain of a kindergarten kid?



What is the year of this 2.5 merc? I'd like to look it up. Just to have an idea of what outboard we are speaking of.


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## DaleH (Nov 9, 2022)

Texas Prowler said:


> What is the year of this 2.5 merc? I'd like to look it up. Just to have an idea of what outboard we are speaking of.


Yes ... year, model or serial#, as Merc usually runs by 'serial number ranges' for configurations.


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## senkosam (Nov 9, 2022)

2022
model # *1F02201KK*
2.5hp
4 - stroke


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## Texas Prowler (Nov 9, 2022)

Great. Looking at the specs listed in the for sale ads. Both the 2.5 & 3.5 have the same displacement. I'd bet same cam as well. That said if you ever got to the point where you wanted to upgrade id swap carbs and that may just be all. That 2.5 is a detuned 3.5


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## senkosam (Nov 9, 2022)

Is 2.5 that much difference from 3.5?


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## airshot (Nov 9, 2022)

senkosam said:


> 5hp might be a bit too powerfUll for a 12' jon boat?


Not at all....most are rated for 5 to 10 hp for the wider, deeper ones. My 12' is a smaller model, not as wide and deep as other models and it has a 5 hp rating. Used to own a river jon boat, extra wide and deep 12' that gad a 10 hp rating, and yes, it would fly with my 9.9 OB


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## senkosam (Nov 9, 2022)

I would also and mostly use the motor on a 10'v bottom when solo. Seems to me 3.5 or higher would be too powerful.


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## RaisedByWolves (Nov 10, 2022)

senkosam said:


> I would also and mostly use the motor on a 10'v bottom when solo. Seems to me 3.5 or higher would be too powerful.


I would be comfortable with 6-8 hp on a boat that size, but that’s just my opinion and on the waters I frequent.

Wind, tides, weight and oncoming inclement weather (lightning in a tin boat is no fun) can all play a part in the decision for me.

My 12’ mirrocraft was set up for two people plus gear and while my 9.9 was ok and fun enough, I really wanted a 15 hp on it.


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## airshot (Nov 10, 2022)

senkosam said:


> 2022
> model # *1F02201KK*
> 2.5hp
> 4 - stroke


That explains why your 4 stroke is 20 lbs heavier than my 2.2 hp 2 stroke....


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## senkosam (Nov 10, 2022)

In any case, today* it wouldn't start *after the 5th time and I had to row back into a 10mph chilly wind at least a mile to get back to the dock. Of course I left the trolling motor in the truck thinking the motor would have no problem starting. 
Speed was good otherwise. Big Deal!


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## Texas Prowler (Nov 11, 2022)

Try swapping the spark plug. You need to get used to starting the outboard at home in a barrel or trashcan water for a few days.

Learn when to choke and not to. That's key with these.

Use the choke at the wrong time and it'll flood

When on the water I always try starting without the choke first. At least a few times.


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## senkosam (Nov 11, 2022)

I did start it at home in a bucket of water. For three straight days it started with no choke and a bit of throttle. Bet it will start today.


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## Texas Prowler (Nov 11, 2022)

When it won't start try the half choke setting.

That is enough to pull gas from the carb bowl.


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## senkosam (Nov 11, 2022)

It started right up mounted on the saw horse in a large bucket of water - *first time no less and no choke - just a bit of throttle! *Three consecutive starts after that - no problem plus a low even idle. Again - no choke.
I can't figure out why it wouldn't start yesterday. It's back in the truck waiting for another test run - of course with a trolling motor mounted just in case. Rowing a mile into a 15 mph, chilly wind *IS* something to _sneeze_ about. Must have gone threw half a box of tissues!


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## Lowrider1 (Nov 11, 2022)

RaisedByWolves said:


> I would be comfortable with 6-8 hp on a boat that size, but that’s just my opinion and on the waters I frequent.
> 
> Wind, tides, weight and oncoming inclement weather (lightning in a tin boat is no fun) can all play a part in the decision for me.
> 
> My 12’ mirrocraft was set up for two people plus gear and while my 9.9 was ok and fun enough, I really wanted a 15 hp on it.


I went from a 9.9 2 stroke to a 15 4 stroke Merc on my 12' Duroboat...much nicer than the 9.9...only mistaker was not getting elec start...$300 more and 8 lbs if I recall. Older I get the more I like push button things...especially on my blender.


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## Rumblejohn (Nov 11, 2022)

Lowrider1 said:


> I went from a 9.9 2 stroke to a 15 4 stroke Merc on my 12' Duroboat...much nicer than the 9.9...only mistaker was not getting elec start...$300 more and 8 lbs if I recall. Older I get the more I like push button things...especially on my blender.


When I was in high school, my hunting buddy had a 12' Featherlite aluminum semi-V with 25hp Chrysler on it. The old Popular Mechanics magazines had an ad with a girl in a bikini hold one up with one hand. It was definitely a car top boat. When loaded with us (400 lbs), (400 lbs of dogs and gear) it was an interesting experience of the St. John's River at 3:00am. When you made a mildly sharp turn there was a 1-3 second delay of the bow banking after the stern. Needless to say it led a short unhappy life. My friend passed from cancer in 1988, but it was a miracle that either of us survived adolescence. My advice is a 9.8 or so will be fine as long as you are not too crazy with it.

John


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## RaisedByWolves (Nov 12, 2022)

senkosam said:


> It started right up mounted on the saw horse in a large bucket of water - *first time no less and no choke - just a bit of throttle! *Three consecutive starts after that - no problem plus a low even idle. Again - no choke.


The solution should be clear at this point.

Take the bucket of water out on the boat to ensure easy starts.


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## DaleH (Nov 12, 2022)

Hey, *how do you store it* when you put it in the pickup truck? Maybe you should make a simple wooden stand to *transport it straight up and down*, like when mounted on the boat. 

That might improve the starting … my brother had a small little Honda that if he put it on its back or on its side … it would never start up again for a couple days.


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## airshot (Nov 12, 2022)

If you have a fuel shutoff valve, be sure to close it and run the carb dry of fuel. I always do this before taking the motor off for transport. I never open the fuel valve until the motor is upright and ready to run.


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## senkosam (Nov 12, 2022)

The motor is leaning against the seat at a *45-degree angle* with the handle up like the manual stipulates. It started 5x on the water and _every time_ off the water on the 1st or 2nd pull. Something happened on the water trying to restart it after the 5th time. Using the choke guarantees the motor will not start; giving it some throttle guarantees it will start. Regardless, I will have the 55# thrust Minn Kota along to return to the dock when no restart is possible.

(Never had to drain the carb for transport but will for winter storage.)


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## DaleH (Nov 13, 2022)

Keep in mind we’re all just trying to help you out …

But regardless, OB motors are like women … YOU gotta find out what THEY want in order to ‘_turn them on_’ …


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## airshot (Nov 13, 2022)

You might try a hotter spark plug, all your stories appear to be fouled plugs or plug...one cylinder. I have had brand new plugs that were crap, so you may have a bad or weak plug. Also try jumping the plug wire to the plug, you should be able to jump a 3/16" gap, if not you could have a weak spark from the ignition. No matter what, as a boater of 60 plus years, I always run any OB with a fuel shutoff until the carb is free of fuel !!! That shut off valve is not there for decoration.....


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## senkosam (Nov 13, 2022)

DaleH said:


> Keep in mind we’re all just trying to help you out …
> 
> But regardless, OB motors are like women … YOU gotta find out what THEY want in order to ‘_turn them on_’ …


This morning, 4 tries_ / 4 instant starts - never needed the choke._


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## airshot (Nov 13, 2022)

Sounds more like an over rich carb issue.


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## cyclops2 (Nov 22, 2022)

Old Carb engine CAN BE VERY FLOAT HEIGHT SENSITIVE. Test is warm up motor while tied to the dock. Then at idle in FORWARD GEAR. Tilt the motor to SLIGHTLY different angles and hold for 15 seconds at each position. Tells if carb needs to have float / mixture screw better adjusted.


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## senkosam (Nov 22, 2022)

> _Then at idle in FORWARD GEAR._


?? The boat goes forward.



> Tilt the motor to SLIGHTLY different angles


It's the last thing I did before putting the motor into storage. Have to wait until spring of next year to see if it starts and restarts.

Thanks for the suggestions.


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## cyclops2 (Nov 23, 2022)

The smaller the engine ? The more important a CORRECT sized fuel filter is. See if the engine even has a thermostat. Cold engine WILL WILL blacken sparkplug's FAST and cause hard to start engine. I always put in a sparkplug 1 heat range hotter than specified to help with starting & trolling reliability.

NEVER ASSUME the spark plug is the correct one !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Find out FOR SURE ! Then buy a new one & carry a new one & sparkplug wrench. Also buy A sparkplug gap checking tool. Check and adjust the thick heavy metal curved part until the gap is correct. .........NEVER touch or bend the center rod of the spark plug.


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## senkosam (Dec 2, 2022)

Thanks for the tips. The motor starts every time - except restarting on the water after being tilted up. I'll have to wait until spring to try it again on the water.


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## cyclops2 (Dec 9, 2022)

Think about that tilt up speed change ?......Miy variation was a ...SLIGHTLY INCORRECT ...float adjustment. Redid it to be correct. No change when tilted.


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## airshot (Jan 6, 2023)

senkosam said:


> If I found out that info, I wouldn't know what to do with it. The guy who fixed the motor ain't cheap and he's the only one that would be able to install the new part. Again, thanks for the help and I too wish we lived closer!


If your mechanic is that expensive and your still gaving issues after he " fixed" it....perhaps you need another mechanic. If that motor is fixed and properly setup it should be easy to start !! My 1985 model hasn"t been run in 3 months, bet it will start on the third pull right now!! After that it will start on the first or second pull after that....these little Tohatsu motors have a great reputation, especially for easy starting..


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## senkosam (Jan 6, 2023)

I tale to him one more time and to start it in a pool of water, wait a minute after shutting down it plus raising it up and restarting.


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