# 2000 50HP 2-stroke fuel injected



## Queencitybassman (May 25, 2010)

I picked this motor up on a great deal but it has not been started in 6 years and has a total of 20 hours on it. It is a 2000 50hp 2-stroke fuel injected mercury with all controls and cables. My question being since it hasnt been started in six years how should i go about prepping it for the water. What kind of basic services need to be done to it. Id like this motor to last a long time but dont have too much money to go to a mechanic to get too much done most ill try to do myself. Advice and suggestions wanted guys thanks.


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## Quackrstackr (May 25, 2010)

Fuel injected or oil injected?

I don't think that Mercury made a 50hp 2 stroke efi motor (Optimax) in 2000.

I would change the water pump impeller and lower unit oil, add some fresh 2 cycle oil to the reservoir and some Seafoam to some fresh gas and try to fire it up.


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## crazymanme2 (May 25, 2010)

I agree with above post plus I'd put some 2 cycle oil in the spark plug holes.I'm sure after 6 years most of the oil is not on the cylinders.Be careful with that oil injection after 6 years.Could be gummed up after sitting all that time.I believe I would use some premix just incase.Better rich on oil instead of no oil & scorched cylinders.


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## Queencitybassman (May 25, 2010)

Sorry i meant oil injected.. how much would this stuff cost to get done at a mechanic


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## crazymanme2 (May 25, 2010)

You should be able to call a few places for quotes.


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## Quackrstackr (May 25, 2010)

Prices are subject to area and competition. I've seen places charge anywhere from $75 to $150 for changing an impeller (which would automatically come with a l/u lube change).


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## Loggerhead Mike (May 25, 2010)

i would personally do away w/ the oil injection unless you take it all apart and clean real good.

ive never trusted them


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## Queencitybassman (May 25, 2010)

An what about cleaning carbs?


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## Queencitybassman (May 25, 2010)

all that stuff seems pretty do-able but I am not sure where the resovoir is


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## Quackrstackr (May 25, 2010)

Queencitybassman said:


> all that stuff seems pretty do-able but I am not sure where the resovoir is



The oil reservoir? It's that white tank on the front of your motor with the cowl off. That's where you put your oil and it mixes with straight gasoline from your gas tank before entering the carbs.


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## Queencitybassman (May 26, 2010)

oh okay.. how do you clean that.. and also is the seafoam going to be enough or should i take the carb apart and clean it also


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## Quackrstackr (May 26, 2010)

Is it empty (reservoir)?

If it is and it is clean, I wouldn't worry about it. If it's not, I assume that it just bolts on and there is some tubing that connects it to the oil pump... at least that's how it is on my 90. Just take it off and clean it out good with some sort of oil/grease cleaner. Cleaning out the rest of it (the actual pump) is a lot more labor intensive and may be more than you want to tackle yourself. You for darn sure don't want to mess anything up in that area if you are planning on running the oil injection.

I would try Seafoam before I started tearing into the carbs. You haven't cranked it yet so you don't know if the carbs are even dirty. The Seafoam certainly won't hurt anything.

Crank it on a set of muffs and you will be able to tell quickly whether the oil injection is working or not. When a motor doesn't want to start, the injection keeps pumping oil and when it finally does fire.. there's going to be a whole lot of smoke. If you don't see any smoke, shut it down and have a mechanic look at it.


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## Queencitybassman (May 26, 2010)

do you think i should just scratch the oil injection all together.. loggerhead is saying that he doesnt trust them. Thanks for all the advice you have been real helpful


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## crazymanme2 (May 26, 2010)

I don't trust oil injection either.Get rid of it & any problems it may cause. =D>


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## Quackrstackr (May 26, 2010)

Getting rid of it on a lot of motors isn't as easy as it sounds. Most times they are incorporated with something else and you have to get dummy parts and blanks to replace the original parts so that everything else still works as it is supposed to. Once again, screw something in that oil pump area up and you are going to have problems. I would leave that to a marine tech. that knows what they are doing if you are planning on doing away with it.

You probably can't just not use the tank and leave it as is, either.


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## Queencitybassman (May 26, 2010)

Would i be safe making my ratio really thick by doing 50:1 mix in the gas tank and also putting oil in the oil injection.. Also i read it would be a good idea to replace the fuel filter which is just a $5 piece.. what do you think


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## wasilvers (May 27, 2010)

I have an old evinrude 50 hp that mixes the oil for you. Before I got it, it had been converted to premix. I looked online and there were several guides for converting to premix. I checked what was done against these guides and it had been done right. 

I mix 50 to 1. It smokes a lot at idle, but then, smoke means oil.


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## Quackrstackr (May 27, 2010)

Queencitybassman said:


> Would i be safe making my ratio really thick by doing 50:1 mix in the gas tank and also putting oil in the oil injection.. Also i read it would be a good idea to replace the fuel filter which is just a $5 piece.. what do you think



During break in for a new motor, you do exactly that. I don't think that you would hurt anything but you will just be burning a lot of oil and potentially fouling plugs.

It probably is a good idea to change the fuel filter while you are at it.


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## Queencitybassman (May 27, 2010)

Alright i mounted that motor on the boat today.. took three people.. started fooling with it getting ready to service it.. its not bolted down yet but it seems as though the tilt works fine but im having a trouble getting the trim to work.. it got dark so i couldnt really get a good look at it but any suggestions?


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## Quackrstackr (May 27, 2010)

Tilt and trim are one and the same unless you just have tilt... which is possible on a 50.


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## wasilvers (May 28, 2010)

Queencitybassman said:


> Alright i mounted that motor on the boat today.. took three people..


Dang - I had to load mine myself last time - just about didn't make it all the way up there because the dang motor was tilted a bit.


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## Queencitybassman (May 29, 2010)

Randomely I hooked the battery motor up to the boat this morning and both tilt and trim were working perfectly. On the bad side i had my car broken into last night and lost a good amount of cash not to mention other things so this fix may have to be on hold


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## masterofillusion (May 29, 2010)

That sucks. Are you in Charlotte? I think I saw that motor on craigslist, hope you get it going. That will be a great deal alright.


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## Queencitybassman (Jun 6, 2010)

Yup it was on charlottes craigslist. I have run into my first problem. Since last posting.. I have mounted the motor which was a pain but Its done and sealed right. I have changed the lower unit gear oil. Replaced spark plugs with brand new ones. Given the motor fresh oil. I have also given the the motor fresh gasoline. Finally after weeks.. I hooked it up to some ears only to hear it turn over but not start. Cranked it and no go. It turns over and sounds like it wants to start. Checked the spark plugs and I am not seeing any fuel getting to them, they seem to not be getting anything. I have two conclusions that I think it may be the carberators being gummed up and should be taken off and cleaned. Or it is an electrical problem and the choke is not getting fuel to the spark plugs. Called a mechanic buddy and he told me try using "ether" on the carbs and see if it will start. I have not used the seafoam yet but I dont think that will fix it.. ideas and questions?


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## Queencitybassman (Jun 6, 2010)

Or option three.. The spark plugs are shit cause the person at the store didn't have the same name brand of the original so I got the same size by autolite.. But would that prevent my outboard from starting up?


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## perchin (Jun 6, 2010)

Do not spray ether in your carb........... l am shocked :shock: that a mechanic would suggest that. [-X instead get a cheap water spray bottle and put some mixed gas in it. Use the mixed gas to spray in the carbs. Also to be safe put a few drops of oil down each cylinder, as it has been sitting a long while. If your not sure about the plugs call a boat shop and ask what plugs it is supposed to take. I run nothing but NGK, as the rest have never proven to me reliable. Have you pulled apart the fuel pump yet? It may need cleaned out from sitting and gumming up. Same goes for the carbs.


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## Queencitybassman (Jun 6, 2010)

Well I looked into the ether and did not get great reviews from using it so I think I'll opt away from that. I have not taken the fuel pump apart just yet cause I am worried about screwing it up so far I have done all the work myself but they were all things I've done before


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## Quackrstackr (Jun 6, 2010)

Mercs are notoriously hard starting. I would say especially so for one that has been in mothballs that long.

Something that you might check as I'm not sure when they started using this... turn the key over but not so far that the engine turns over. Push the key in and release it and see if you can hear the motor click. That is the choke/prime on newer 2 stroke Mercs. I have to raise the neutral throttle lever about 1/3 and pump the key from 3 to 5 times for mine to fire off. If it fires and tries to die, just push the key and let off again. The carbs may be loaded after that so you may have to let the motor run on the lever for a little bit to "clear it's throat", so to speak. Don't give it too much gas with the neutral throttle lever or you'll flood it out (or cause the rpm's to go through the roof).

After mine has been sitting for several days, I can turn it over until the cows come home and it won't start until I prime it with the key.

Then again... your carbs may be a gummed up mess from sitting that long, too.


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## Queencitybassman (Jun 6, 2010)

Yeah well i tried it again this morning.. all im hear is it not getting gas seems like same noise you get when you run out of gas in a car. Checked the spark plugs and they are staying dry.. i have the throttle lever up about half way and I choked it 3-4 times and then i turn it still choked. But spark plugs are still getting no fuel. Do you think seafoam would help that? I have bad ears so I cannot tell if something is clicking when i choke it. If it is not clicking that means its an electrical issue right? And if it is clicking when i choke it.. it is probally a carb issue right?


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## Quackrstackr (Jun 6, 2010)

Seafoam won't help it unless you can get some fuel circulating.

It could be an electrical issue if the choke/prime is not clicking. You can definitely hear mine but it is not very loud. You might get someone to listen to it for you to see if they can hear it.

I have never checked my plugs without priming to see if fuel is getting to them but I know for sure that it won't start without priming if it has been sitting idle for more than a couple of days.

How is the primer bulb on your line from the tank? Is it holding pressure?


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## Queencitybassman (Jun 6, 2010)

how do i prime them?


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## Quackrstackr (Jun 6, 2010)

Pushing the key on the newer Mercs is a choke/prime system. You push the key 3 to 5 times to prime it. If yours isn't working for some reason, it isn't getting primed.

You should be flooding the motor if you are pushing the key a lot and then trying to crank it with the key held in as well... if the prime/choke system is working. I would think that at least one carb would be flowing a little fuel and wetting a plug if it was a dirty carb issue.

Shoot a bit of mixed gas into the cylinders and see if you can get it to start.


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## Queencitybassman (Jun 6, 2010)

if it was an electrical problem with the choke what is the best way to go about fixing it?


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## masterofillusion (Jun 6, 2010)

If you're not getting fuel I would spray fuel from a spray bottle directly in the carb as you crank it, that way you know you are getting fuel there. I would use fresh pre mixed fuel.


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## Quackrstackr (Jun 6, 2010)

Queencitybassman said:


> if it was an electrical problem with the choke what is the best way to go about fixing it?



Outside of checking all of the connections... take it to a repair shop. :lol: 

I'm pretty good with the mechanical end of these things but the wiring is usually a mess and I've never had to dig into one of mine very deeply... knock on wood. I hope that I don't have to.

Is the bulb on your fuel line holding pressure?


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## Queencitybassman (Jun 6, 2010)

Yeah its tough ive already missed half the bass fishing summer and its killing me. Yeah the bulb seems to be getting pressure okay. I cant afford a dang mechanic thats for sure. What do you think is the best plan of action.


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## Quackrstackr (Jun 6, 2010)

It is either in the carbs or your choke/prime system.

Flip a coin and tackle one or the other.

I would shoot some fuel into each cylinder and see if I could get the thing to fire.


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## Queencitybassman (Jun 6, 2010)

I don't know how to shoot them into the cylinders as I am not used to mercurys. Where do I spray gas into


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## Quackrstackr (Jun 6, 2010)

The plug hole.


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## Queencitybassman (Jun 6, 2010)

Well i cant seem to get the spark plugs wet. I tried putting a couple drops of fuel in each cylinder is that too little? Also tried to check the choke button i could be wrong but I didnt hear any clicking noises when me and the wife tried.


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## perchin (Jun 6, 2010)

Queencitybassman said:


> Well i cant seem to get the spark plugs wet. I tried putting a couple drops of fuel in each cylinder is that too little? Also tried to check the choke button i could be wrong but I didnt hear any clicking noises when me and the wife tried.



Wait????? Do you have spark???? If you put fuel directly into the plug holes, then replaced the plugs, replaced the plug wires, and cranked her, she should at least grumble at ya. If not check for spark.


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## Queencitybassman (Jun 6, 2010)

Well shes been grumbling and she even kicked a little smoke out but no start. I may have to bite the bullet and take her for a diagnostic. Its tough dishing out 60 dollars when you are this close to having her running.


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## dyeguy1212 (Jun 6, 2010)

I'm going to invent a 2-stroke safe starting fluid


patent pending, moochers.


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## Queencitybassman (Jun 7, 2010)

Great idea


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## Codeman (Jun 8, 2010)

To me I would have already took the carbs off and put kits in them. Sitting for that long I would almost guarantee they are gummed up. Buy a factory service manual, cheaper than going to a mechanic. Crank it over and squirt gas directly in the carbs (not a lot) if it lights off then the fuel is not making its way through the carbs and they need to be cleaned.


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## Queencitybassman (Jun 8, 2010)

Okay so today a buddy of mine came over to work on this outboard. We looked up and down this thing and checked it with good compression. Good spark. Brand new NGK spark plugs that are manufacturer reccomended. We have figured out it has to either be the carbs or fuel pump. 3 things you need are spark, air and fuel. Only thing I think we are not getting is fuel. Thoughts? Should I bring it to a mechanic or do should I take the carbs out and use carb kits. Dont know how to go about the fuel pump but I think the carbs are definitely do able. thoughts?


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## Codeman (Jun 8, 2010)

Well I'm a do it my-selfer, that being said, a manual is a good idea, but. Take one of the lines from the fuel pump to the carb and leave it unhooked. Squeeze the primer bulb in the line get fuel passing through the pump? Crank it. Are you getting fuel now? You have to find where the fuel is stopping before you can fix your problem. If you have fuel to this point then move on to the carbs. 

I would take them off carefully paying attention to where everything is set, connected etc. Take pictures if you must and make notes of everything. Disassemble the carbs one at a time. (This is a good place to see an exploded view of the carbs Parts Page) I'm guessing they will be fairly "clean" but will have the small passages plugged up with old varnished gas. Get a can of carb cleaner and some strands of wire and compressed air. Make sure ever jet and passage is clear. Most likely you won't even need kits but they are fairly in expensive and not a bad idea just in case. Good luck, you can save yourself a ton of money doing it yourself, or cost yourself more if you don't feel like you need to be in there, you will have to make that choice. If you have any mechanical ability at all you should be able to handle it if you take your time.


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## Queencitybassman (Jun 9, 2010)

Man thanks for all the great advice guys.. Disconnecting that fuel line is a smart idea to see if it is the carbs or fuel pump.. I'll see what happens hopefully this weekend I can handle all of it.. I'm trading a buddy of mine sn old rod so he can either clean or rebuild using carb kits.. Depends on my money situation.


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## Queencitybassman (Jun 10, 2010)

I got this outboard running today!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! awesome after i cleaned the carbs she started on the first crank everytime.

BAD NEWS - Water pump needs replacing and I went to west marine today and this jackass gave me the wrong water pump for my outboard and its only 45 minutes away to get another one. So tommorow my project is to get a water pump that fits. Do most Marinas sell water pumps?

Also I have a question for any motor guys.. Im putting out 90 psi on all three cylinders and I cant tell if that is good.. I feel as though maybe they should be higher? How do you know how much psi your outboard should be putting out?


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## Quackrstackr (Jun 10, 2010)

If memory serves, compression should be 115+ on all cylinders.

For your sake, I hope not.. but I'm wondering if there was a reason that motor was mothballed 6 years ago.


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## wasilvers (Jun 10, 2010)

If they didn't let it crank a few rotations, it will stop at 90 psi on the tester. It will come out on WOT what it really is. It will run on 90 anyway


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## Codeman (Jun 10, 2010)

Give it time for the rings to free up it'll probably come back up, if it runs well, don't worry about it. Good job getting it running, great sense of accomplishment there.


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## Queencitybassman (Jun 10, 2010)

Yeah i was sweating there for a bit that it was a piston problem but im real excited about it.. I am hoping the compression is all good but i only lightly cranked it to test the compression.. I am upset that this guy gave me the wrong water pump I would be water ready tommorow but it may have to wait until saturday! Thanks for all the help and advice guys.. since ive done all this already should i put any seafoam through it?


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## Codeman (Jun 10, 2010)

Won't hurt it any. I think I'd run it a bit before you try a decarb treatment or anything, but some in the fuel will prob do it some good. As far as the water pump goes, at least it is a an easy job, hate it when I get sent on my way with the wrong parts.


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## Queencitybassman (Jun 11, 2010)

Is there any reason my water pump shouldnt be working i put one in today and no water was pissing?


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## Codeman (Jun 11, 2010)

Run a piece of weed eater line up the pee hole it my be plugged up. Pretty common especially since its been sitting, something may have crawled up in it.


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## Queencitybassman (Jun 11, 2010)

okay no problem any other reasons why it would be peeing?


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## Quackrstackr (Jun 11, 2010)

The pisser is normally just a feel good thing that is plumbed in before the thermostat and any water actually entering the engine.

If that is the case, either your pump install is not right or the line is clogged. If the line has been moved to the discharge side of the head, I would check the thermostat and make sure that it isn't clogged up or stuck closed.


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## Queencitybassman (Jun 13, 2010)

I now have realized the problem is that I am a moron.. When i put the lower unit back onto the outboard I made one of the dumbest mistakes.. I did not connect the shifter rod back together and I started it up and tried to run it in the driveway and knew something was wrong. What do i do now.. now it spins freely even in foward or reverse.. I know that one of the cables should be adjusted?


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