# 1972 Mirrocraft 16' V aka "The bigger boat"



## deadkitty (Oct 9, 2017)

After using the snot out of my 12' valco and pretty much modding it to be the perfect one man fish slaying machine, my family decided they too like to go fishing ....

Unfortunately due to the weight restrictions on my lil' tinny, adding 200+ lbs really dragged down the experience. While still fun, I became concerned with safety especially when even the mid size wakes came rolling through. One big wave over the bow and the "Good Enough" would be sleeping with the fishes.

So with a sad heart she is being sent to Ye olde Craigslist. 





But the good news is, I get to start again and take all the knowledge I gained from my first big project and use it to go at a bigger platform. The combination of safety issues with the small boat and the fact that I just moved to a city on some big water (Columbia River) , I'm excited to have something to go chase those salmon in.

So here she is. Craigslist find for $900. Came with an electric start 25hp 1984 evinrude. Tilt lock is broken. But started right up. The transom is shot, and will need replaced immediately. Galvanized ezloader trailer is in decent shape, but the bunk mounts are rusted out. It is also about 3 feet too short, so I will need to extend it for maneuverability and safety. Lights are also gonna need to be replaced. The rest of the boat is in good order.























Here's my plan of attack:
- Replace transom
- Fix trailer (bunks,lights,length, maybe bearings)

Then on to the fun stuff:
I saw this exact boat on CL with a mod already and I really like the aft layout:




Nice open flat space toward the rear. 
Definitely going to add that in, it'll give large storage areas on both sides as well as good fish fighting maneuverability. I plan on using aluminum square tubing and rivets this time around for framing. 

At some point, probably next summer, a new paint job is in order. Will probably use coat-it to seal in the rivets. I'm also not a huge fan of the white and light blue.


I'm not 100% sure what I will do with the bow yet. But I will need to reinforce the cap so my 80lb terrova doesn't rip right off.





I will likely put the dual batteries for it in the bottom of the bow space (good to balance weight when I'm by myself) then a storage space above the batteries for life vests etc.

I plan on installing downriggers to each side, interior lighting, Bimini top transferred from my previous boat, possibly a stereo. I will once again rock my humminbird helix 5 SI at the tiller and my garmin echo 200 at the bow. 


She's definitely gonna go crabbing and bay fishing, so any tips on what I might want to add for such purposes would be much appreciated.

One thing I was considering, in my head it sounds like a lot of fun, but not sure on the practicality. I was thinking of adding a side or center console. My concern is that it might take up all that awesome new space I added by getting a bigger boat, lol. Is it too much of a space killer? Are there ways to make the footprint smaller than a traditional console. I see benefit as far as moving visibility forward, better weight distribution. But not sure it'd be worth the loss of deck space and might be a pain to work around when fighting a fish. 

Anyway, TLDR... "Many hours of work yet to done..."


----------



## RaisedByWolves (Oct 9, 2017)

Nice lil project boat and a good price too.

On the 12' Alumicraft I redid years back I made a 3/4" plywood deck over the bow that came back about 2.5-3'. Served well for the trolling motor mounting, battery storage and life jackets.


The one thing I dont like in the pic you showed was hoe low the seat is. I had things called something like Jumpups, kind of like a scissor jack that would elevate you 1.5' for fishing and then fold down for driving or rough weather.

Im redoing a 14' boat right now and thought about a console but decider it wasnt for me with this size boat, but on a 16'er it wouldnt be too bad IMO.


----------



## water bouy (Oct 9, 2017)

Should be a fun project. What kind of hp is it rated for and are you sure it's an '84 motor? The decal is a little different than mine.


----------



## RaisedByWolves (Oct 9, 2017)

water bouy said:


> Should be a fun project. What kind of hp is it rated for and are you sure it's an '84 motor? The decal is a little different than mine.




Huh, good catch, that might not be an 84.

I would think an 84 would have thru hub exhaust, but a picture search gave mixed results.


----------



## deadkitty (Oct 9, 2017)

I'm fairly sure it's rated for 40hp, the transom is pretty stout besides the failing wood. The plate that says for sure is long gone. 

As far as the motor year, I will take a closer look when I get a chance and confirm the year. I'm really not sure, haven't owned a motor from that era before.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## richg99 (Oct 9, 2017)

The motor's serial number can be traced and give you the exact year and model.

As far as a side console, I have now have had a couple. They save more space than a center console but still can be in the way. 

The width of the boat is paramount to fitting a SC in. My smallest SC boat was a 48 inch width at the lowest point. 

Getting up and down from the seat to run the boat can be more trouble than using an extended tiller with a grab bar.


----------



## Weldorthemagnificent (Oct 9, 2017)

I’d stick with tiller. Those are awesome motors. Super light. I had a 76 that looked just like yours and it weighed in at 98 lbs with electric start (bathroom scale). Unless you’re one of those guys that wants every available mph, I’d stick with the 25. Put a hydrofoil on it to help with low speed planning and getting out of the hole with all the weight you plan on adding. Good luck with the new project!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## water bouy (Oct 9, 2017)

Maybe 1981 but a nice one either way. Does it look like the transom was cut to fit the shaft length. I'm giving my boat the same layout with a deck.


----------



## deadkitty (Oct 10, 2017)

Nice call water bouy, busted out the decoder ring and it is indeed an '81. So I hadn't thought about the transom being cut down, but it totally makes sense because the motor itself is a long shaft but the cav plates hangs a bit lower than you would want. To top that off the transom cap was definitely not oem, since it's totally rusted through and cut terribly at the bends. So at some point someone adapted it for a short shaft. When I go to replace everything I will raise the height back up to 20". The more freeboard the better and the motor should be more efficient higher up.


----------



## deadkitty (Oct 10, 2017)

Went on a history search. Emailed mirrocraft and they hooked me up with a brochure from that year. Looks like it is a 16' Deep Fisherman. So surprisingly the "deep" fisherman is built for a short shaft, lol. 63" beam, 35hp, and my favorite part 1200lb capacity.


----------



## Weldorthemagnificent (Oct 10, 2017)

Very similar in size to my 16’ Naden. Which performed adequately with a 20 and super with the 35. I can take 3 men at 225lbs and all our camping gear/food for a 3 day trip and still plane albeit with a large bow splash! 3 guys and fishing poles works mint. Just to give you an idea of what you’re in for. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## deadkitty (Oct 13, 2017)

Weldorthemagnificent said:


> Very similar in size to my 16’ Naden. Which performed adequately with a 20 and super with the 35. I can take 3 men at 225lbs and all our camping gear/food for a 3 day trip and still plane albeit with a large bow splash! 3 guys and fishing poles works mint. Just to give you an idea of what you’re in for.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Sounds exactly what I'm hoping for  excited to get started, first things first gotta sell my other boat to refill the "boat fund" and get started.


----------



## deadkitty (Oct 13, 2017)

Got the transom off today. A few rounded out bolts, had to cut a few screws, but eventually it came out. Busted out the wire brush and found a bit of pitting. What's the best way to deal with that?


----------



## RaisedByWolves (Oct 14, 2017)

Not much you can do as far as the damage done, using steel alongside the aluminum is most likely why it corroded like that.

Are you going to redo the stepped transom or go full height up to the gunwales?


----------



## deadkitty (Oct 14, 2017)

I think I will do the stepped, but with less drop, pretty much will be able to accommodate an 18" short shaft or easily use a spacer and fit a long shaft.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## richg99 (Oct 14, 2017)

18 inch short shaft??? I thought all motors were either a 15 inch short or a 20 inch long. Of course, each manufacturer has his own way of reaching those sizes.


----------



## RaisedByWolves (Oct 14, 2017)

I always liked the look of the stepped transoms, they just seem more boaty looking.

On mine I have to raise the transom 2" to work with the motor I have and Im looking for the proper width channel to cap the transom with. Im thinking of contacting Mirrocraft to see if they sell a replacement piece to use.

Maybe look into going that route through your mfg? 

In any case go with doubled up plywood rather than the board that was in there, much stronger.


----------



## RaisedByWolves (Oct 14, 2017)

richg99 said:


> 18 inch short shaft??? I thought all motors were either a 15 inch short or a 20 inch long. Of course, each manufacturer has his own way of reaching those sizes.




I thought this too but my 20" motor is actually 22".


----------



## deadkitty (Oct 14, 2017)

Welp as I found with my merc 9.9 it measures at 18", doing some research I found 18" is actually a fairly common length. So I want to leave myself options if I repower in the future or want to use my 9.9 on hp restricted lakes. If I'm locked into 20", I will have much less to choose from. 

For the cap, I guess I'm not sure what it's function would be. I guess in my head it's there to keep wear and tear off the transom would and to add a nice metal trim. Would using thin sheet aluminum be okay? Something like flashing aluminum, easy to cut and break?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## richg99 (Oct 14, 2017)

I would think that the cap is there to prevent water from working its way down inside of the transom.


----------



## deadkitty (Oct 14, 2017)

Yes and that, totally thought I wrote that, but yeah, water off the transom as well. My main question is aluminum flashing an ok choice to make the cap ?


----------



## RaisedByWolves (Oct 14, 2017)

I would think something of a heavier gauge would be better.


Looking around I found this. Good price for the material, but the shipping....... :shock: 


https://www.speedymetals.com/pc-2532-8348-1-x-1-34-x-18-channel-6063-t52-aluminum-extruded.aspx


EDIT: Found what I needed for $35 shipped here.


https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=297&step=2&top_cat=60

I got 1 3/4" by 1" by 60" the 1" leg will let me tie the channel to my transom corner caps.


----------



## deadkitty (Oct 14, 2017)

Oof no joke, that is some hefty shipping pricing, I might check with some of the metal shops nearby and see if I can find a local source. The flashing just seemed easy to source and easy to work with.


----------



## RaisedByWolves (Oct 14, 2017)

Check my edit.

Simple and I dont have to spend time and gas to go fetch it.


----------



## deadkitty (Oct 14, 2017)

Oh nice! Thanks for the find 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## deadkitty (Oct 27, 2017)

Haven’t had a ton of time to work on it much lately, between the torrential downpours and 3 kids, those “project” minutes are few and far between. So today I got the old boat back to selling condition... aka, swapped my helix 5 out for my old 398ci si, removed the garmin up front, keeping all my batteries, and swapped out the bow terrova for the Motorguide that was chillin in my shed. Removed downrigger mounts. Now she’s all set for pickup on Monday. It’ll be a bittersweet goodbye....

Anyway so after an insane amount of rain and no cover, and a plugged up plug, the mirrocraft filled with a few hundred gallons of water. Sweet, easy leak check as it’s now been sunny for a few days. Previous owner said it weeped a bit. Checked the entire bottom and only found a very small leak right on the bow, like maybe it was beached too hard, one too many times. I plan on covering the seams with coat it, before the full repaint, that’ll probably happen in the spring when the weather warms back up. Until then, I will probably just use a bit of marine goop for a temporary solution. 

Overall pretty happy to only have the one wet spot.

Hoping to get some work done on the transom next week to make her fishable again.


----------



## deadkitty (Nov 26, 2017)

Checking in... not a ton of progress made over the last month as it’s been raining non-stop and the 16’ won’t fit in the garage with all my other stuff. I did go ahead and get a piece of 3/4” marine ply, which’ll get cut down the next time a dry day and my rare free time intersect. Also snagged a 3 bank in-boat charger on Black Friday for $100. And not boat specific, but did snag a decent salmon trolling combo in prep to chase them this spring. Hopefully will have more to update soon.


----------



## richg99 (Nov 26, 2017)

I've heard good things about the Genius brand. Well done!


----------



## deadkitty (Feb 10, 2018)

Finally got some nice weather in in the pnw. Had some time today to get a bit done. Got my transom cut out of the marine ply. I was gonna glue it today with some 5200 that I picked up, but of course can’t seem to find my caulking gun, so that’ll have to wait. I think I will use the leftover wood to do my bow cap deck also. I also slapped together an engine stand, I’d been hanging it on a plastic sawhorse in the garage over the winter, but now I wanted something I can put it on to work on. I ordered a new pump kit and plan on changing the lower end oil soon as well.


----------



## ProduceMan (Feb 10, 2018)

Congrats on the buy! I have a buddy who has the Deep fisherman also. He's running a Merc 25 stroke. Runs 2 6 gal tanks in the bow and has decks that are low that cover about 3/4 of the bottom. 2 group 24 batteries in the stern and an 18 gal live bait tank mounted in front of the 2nd seat from the stern. The boat is very seaworthy, we've been out 22 miles off our coast chasing tuna in it.


----------



## deadkitty (Feb 11, 2018)

Nice! Not sure I will tackle that big of water, but will definitely be haunting the Columbia river here in a couple months and the bays for crabs. I will likely run my gas tank/s in the back and dual batteries up front for my bow mount trolling motor. Haven’t quite nailed down my design yet. But I’m planning on taking out the 3rd bench and splitting the second bench to open the boat up.


----------



## GrandRiverMan (Feb 11, 2018)

Nice buy, I like your ideas. I rebuilt my 1977 MirroCraft and trailer before I found this site. With all the great ideas you guys have gives me the urge to do another project. I look forward to your end result. Keep us posted.


----------



## deadkitty (Mar 15, 2018)

Progress. More and more as the weather turns  

So did the pump change, still wouldn’t pee, went in and replaced the thermostat , broke a bolt in the process, it was in bad shape. Also cleaned out the water channel. ...still wouldn’t pee  























Started getting concerned, turns out I didn’t use enough water in the bucket when I tested it, broke off an impeller leg instantly 

Went back in and replaced the impeller again, now she pees like a champ.





As far as the transom, slathered it with 5200 and let the weights compress it. Today I went and did final fitting and made holes for the bolts.












Went with a 17” transom height, looks about perfect we’ll see once she’s in the water.





Next up, gonna paint the transom, and do multiple layers of spar urethane. Hoping to hit the water next week for the first time with it.


----------



## deadkitty (Mar 22, 2018)

More done today, bolted in the new transom. Snagged some overpriced diamond plate on a whim at ye olde Home Depot, fitted it to the transom. Hopped on the net and ordered some channel for the transom cap, only piece missing now. Added a transom saver to the trailer to keep the motor up since it doesn’t have a tilt lock and rides fairly low. 

Hoping to water test in the next couple days, fingers crossed.
















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## richg99 (Mar 22, 2018)

Lookin' good!


----------



## thedude (Mar 22, 2018)

Well done.


----------



## deadkitty (Mar 24, 2018)

Thanks, it’s getting there, almost fishable again. Got my aluminum channel in the mail, just want to make sure the motor height is good before I bend it up to put the cap on. Still haven’t gotten a shot to water test yet, life and 3 kids keeps getting in the way. Planning to take it out possibly Wednesday. Once the water test is good, on to figuring out the interior and eventually a few days in the summer will be dedicated to a full repaint


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## deadkitty (Mar 31, 2018)

Got her out on the lake yesterday... little things, it’s always the little things and some big things. Going from a boat all set up and “complete” (my valco) to bare bones boat is quite a shocker as far as creature comforts go. Here’s the “must fix ASAP list”:

-leaks a bit of water right a the bow where I thought it would, also seems to be a small leak through the plug, will replace the plug hopefully that’ll fix it

-with no side guide bunks on the trailer, and the trailers short length this boat is serious pain to get trailered straight... especially with people waiting on you at the launch, felt like the boat launch noob all over again : /

-Having motor issues: When running with just myself in the boat, the throttle seemed weird. Basically a lot of random over revving, a couple times it overheated and died. The throttle seemed not very responsive and quite “sticky” when throttling up and down. 

A couple things I think my issue might be, I’m hitting pockets of air and the prop is slipping, or the prop is maybe just slipping. But it all seemed to mostly go away with more and balanced weight in the boat. Or at least the over revving did.

I plan on installing a hydrofoil and doing a carb clean/rebuild and going from there. It idles kinda rough and will die if the throttle is all the way low. I will pickup a tiny tach knockoff also to observe my issues with a little more data behind them.

In other news, got the bow casting deck cut out, gonna make a couple passes through the router to make the edge look nice, then paint are spar urethane coats galore. Looking forward to being able to mount up my terrova again soon, it was sorely missed when trolling.

Slowly getting there, can’t wait to get to the more fun stuff, but useability and safety come first...











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## richg99 (Mar 31, 2018)

Sounds like a normal "sea trial". Time to start a list (* you already have) and fix the things that you can only find when on the water.


----------



## deadkitty (Apr 20, 2018)

More progress :


Added a bow roller to help keep it straight when loading. Ordered some side guides that should arrive in a couple days.





Made a temporary battery “box” for the dual batteries for my bow trolling motor. Wired it all up.






Finally finished the bow casting deck. Will install the quick disconnect motor mount shortly.





Hydrofin installed.





Bought a trash can that will accommodate at home testing without removing hydrofoil. Added drainage hole at the bottom.





Also completed full carb rebuild. 

Attempted to install downrigger mounts... but after putting it all together I realized I didn’t leave enough clearance for the plastic mount to be able to slide and lock in, about 2cm short  

Will have to revisit and reinstall when I get some more time.





As long as the motor runs well once I test it post carb clean, gonna hit the river to chase some bass next week.... finally


----------



## richg99 (Apr 20, 2018)

Well done. You timed the fishing just about right, I hope.


----------



## Weldorthemagnificent (Apr 20, 2018)

The thing I hate about the drain in the trash can is that I didn’t think of it! Lol. Usually I give it a snort in gear and that swishes most of the water out. Good idea. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## LDUBS (Apr 20, 2018)

deadkitty said:


> Attempted to install downrigger mounts... but after putting it all together I realized I didn’t leave enough clearance for the plastic mount to be able to slide and lock in, about 2cm short



A lot of guys use a spacer made out of composite bender board or cutting board material to clear the gunnel. You might have to profile whatever you use for a spacer to obtain the right height. My gunnels were very similar to yours. Had those mounted using 3/4 phenolic. On my boat I set the height so they cleared the top of the gunnel by about 1/8". 

Edit: I wanted to add if you want the riggers to set level, you will have to mill a spacer to allow for the angel of your hull. If you don't have one, enlist the aid of a buddy with a table saw, measure the angle, and away you go. 

Your boat is really coming along.


----------



## deadkitty (Apr 20, 2018)

Lol LDUBS, these are the ones you were so awesome to send me [emoji2] I am even using the spacers you sent with because they do fit the profile almost perfectly. I checked the spacing using just the arm bar piece installed and drilled away, only to realize the plastic sleeve that connects it to the downrigger held it just high enough that I couldn’t lock it into place. I need to place the inner piece just a tad higher and I’ll be good to go as the trout and kokes start heading deeper into the water column. Thanks again for those mounts, once I get ‘em installed properly they will work great!


----------



## LDUBS (Apr 20, 2018)

deadkitty said:


> Lol LDUBS, these are the ones you were so awesome to send me [emoji2] I am even using the spacers you sent with because they do fit the profile almost perfectly. I checked the spacing using just the arm bar piece installed and drilled away, only to realize the plastic sleeve that connects it to the downrigger held it just high enough that I couldn’t lock it into place. I need to place the inner piece just a tad higher and I’ll be good to go as the trout and kokes start heading deeper into the water column. Thanks again for those mounts, once I get ‘em installed properly they will work great!



Fantastic. I thought maybe they didn't fit. Glad it works out.


----------



## deadkitty (Apr 25, 2020)

Wow, it’s been 2 years on the dot just about... whelp I’m back. I put my boat project on hold due to the fact I sold my tow vehicle. It’s amazing how unmotivated that can make someone to work on a boat they can’t take out. Anyway, I bought one of those Costco zodiak rafts to fish from for me and the kids, it was a fun lil’ boat, but a month ago I got a new tow vehicle, and yesterday I sold the zodiak. So I’m flush with project funds, and this shall be the summer I actually do some more work on the boat.

A few things while I was away.

I did finish installing the bow mount terrova, worked like a champ, pulled at about 3-3.5mph on the river, definitely enough for trolling.

I think I finally solved my over revving issue at wot. I was shopping new carbs on eBay and noticed a peculiar looking o-ring that came in the carb rebuild kit I used but was not present in my carb. I tore apart the carb and installed it. Unfortunately I sold my tow vehicle that week so I have yet to test it, but from what I’ve read I believe the missing o-ring was the main issue. Will find out later.

One major mishap over the last couple years, the boat cover failed and proceeded to fill the boat with a few hundred gallons of water. Worst damage was to the remote for my terrova 
I will likely need to buy a new one as the inside corroded. It also drowned one of my batteries and I now seem to have a slow leak where the battery corroded. I will seal it up when I do a gluv it pass before painting.


----------



## deadkitty (May 14, 2020)

Picked up a long list of supplies over the last couple weeks.

Plastic storage bins - 3 for storage, 1 for livewell
2x bilge pumps, one with auto switch
1x livewell pump
8 switch panel
120ft 1/8” 1.25x1.25 aluminum angle
4 sheets of foam board (3x 2” and 1x 1”) from the Home Depot damage bin for $30!
New front roller and mount to replace the rusted out one on my trailer.
2x 2x4s, bunk carpet, mounts to replace rusted out ones on the trailer
8x blue LED lights 
Red/green bow light
2x new group 27 marine batteries for my trolling motor
New LED lights for the trailer
4x pin mounts for seats
2x seat pins

Getting everything ready, now it’ll just be a matter of good weather+time to put some work in.

Supplies left to buy:
1/2” plywood for decking and flooring
1/4” plywood for sidewalls
Paint 
More Spar urethane
Tubing for livewell plumbing


I can visualize what it’s going to be, excited to see how well I can execute.


----------



## richg99 (May 14, 2020)

Sounds good. Be sure that you do NOT use any treated lumber.


----------



## deadkitty (May 28, 2020)

Welp the sun came out and I’ve got some time this week to put some work in.

Pulled the motor off and started checking it out make sure everything looked good. Found a new resident and her 2 children : /












Scooped em up into a cage, the kids are enjoying watching them. I will eventually drive off into the woods and let them go.
Luckily all the wiring and everything looked untouched, will buy some gas soon and fire it up, hopefully not to many hiccups from sitting the last couple years.

Next I checked out the damage done to my terrova remote when the boat flooded out with the battery in there. It’s a gen 1, and as I’ve read the rubber on the remote is garbage, it had already worn out. But basically it works, except the plastic piece that actually presses the turn clockwise button down had corroded apart. Aaaand after looking online and calling minnkota it’s the one part they don’t sell separately. Hopped onto eBay and ordered a new remote : /











Onto the boat.... 
Gave it a quick pressure wash to get all the surface dirt flushed out. Then took out the cutting wheel and commenced with bench removal, the rusted out bolts proved to make it harder than I thought it would be. But eventually they started surrendering.











Also started playing with my new Raymarine element 7hv once the sun went down, can’t wait to hit the water and see how it performs in the real world compared to my old helix 5 si.







Next up this week.. (hopefully, fingers crossed)
Pull out the last bench
Paint the inside of the hull
Start installing the aluminum framing


----------



## richg99 (May 28, 2020)

It seems to me that I read that when you are starting an engine that hasn't run in a long while, that a shot of oil down the cylinders is called for. It make sense in that the cylinders won't get any oil until she fires up..and they would be cranking dry.

Check this video out before starting it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBdqv_KL0XI


----------



## deadkitty (Jun 1, 2020)

Thanks, I will definitely follow that advice


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## deadkitty (Jun 6, 2020)

Welp for how many hours it took, seems like a small update.

Prepped and painted the inside today
Let out the smoke on one of those $10 grinders from harbor freight, good thing I own 4.
Next up framing


----------



## A Perfect Tin (Jun 14, 2020)

Looking good.

Stay at it- you’ll enjoy when it’s finished.

- A Perfect Tin


----------



## deadkitty (Jul 4, 2020)

Slow and steady. Put some of the framing in. Pulled the boat off the trailer.
Sealed small leak and most rivets with coat it. Painted the bottom.


----------



## deadkitty (Aug 2, 2020)

Still cranking away...

Gave some lovin to the trailer 


Replaced the rotted out bunks on the trailer










Replaced rotted roller
(Forgot to snap a pic once bolted but you get the idea)










Added a bow stop







Finally finished my transom, Installed transom cap, corner caps, diamond plate backplate. Everything will get a coat of paint eventually.






Added in the floor framing






Work in progress cutting the deck plywood









Hopefully more to come next week...


----------



## deadkitty (Aug 9, 2020)

It’s alive! Muhahaha! 2 years and she started right up, I did fill the cylinders with sea foam for a few days, but other than that, it’s good to go. Will take for a water test later this week.


----------



## deadkitty (Aug 9, 2020)

Progress


----------



## deadkitty (Oct 4, 2020)

Framing just about complete. Next up to finish cutting up the decks for hatches and seat mounts, as well as build the console for all the electronics.


----------



## benjineer (Nov 2, 2020)

Looking good. Go ahead and sell that 25 and start looking for at least a 40 with power t&t, LOL! I went from 20, to 25, to 50. Once I'm done with all the latest mods I may be looking for a 60 e-tec or similar.


----------



## Neubanksc5 (Nov 2, 2020)

Any details/close up photos you can share on your floor framing? I like it!


----------



## Rookie1719 (Jan 31, 2021)

deadkitty said:


> Framing just about complete. Next up to finish cutting up the decks for hatches and seat mounts, as well as build the console for all the electronics.



Hello- I see you removed the benches and doesn’t look like your putting them back in. With that framing you have, you expect the structure to be strong ? No flexing ? I’m at this stage and debating to either put the middle one back or do what you have done. I just don’t know if the boat will flex ... just looking for pointers/tips. 

Thanks and great job !


----------



## deadkitty (Aug 2, 2022)

Welp… right on schedule another two years and life and finally let me take another run at finishing her. 

To answer the questions above:

I notched aluminum Angie and riveted to the existing structure. Layed it all flat and flush, filled the gaps with foam, layed a full sheet of sealed painted 15/32 plywood.

To answer the middle bench question, by adding all the cross beams and using angle in place connecting the center and sides I would say the sides flex way less than originally. Adding all the extra structure increased rigidity. 



First up, finish the decking
I had a rough idea of what I wanted but the “economical” side of me and the perfectionist in me quarreled with how fancy I wanted to get. My wood working skills are just above passable so, imperfection will be called “custom” 

Back deck










Command center






The harder parts…













Then onto urethane coat





Did a motor check, good ole evinrude 25hp started right up , terrova working like a champ, fish finders still good to go…


Moving on to paint next
Wiring
Then install 
…


----------



## akboats (Aug 28, 2022)

deadkitty said:


> Welp… right on schedule another two years and life and finally let me take another run at finishing her.
> 
> To answer the questions above:
> 
> ...


Like the "Custom" wood working


----------

