# 76 evinrude 85 horse won't do anything



## rodknee1231 (Jul 26, 2015)

so I just bought this outboard came with the boat I got, I got a battery in and the bilge pump kicks on but the key won't start the motor let's start simple I don't have a whole lot of experience with these outboardss but I am mechanically inclined. is there a way to bypass the Johnson control unit and just jump the starter so I can see if it turns would a power pack do this ? all the ignition parts look pretty old but the starter should still turn the engine correct?


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## rodknee1231 (Jul 26, 2015)

found this it come from a black harness type this and it goes to a silver round thing almost looks like a relay the wire is red so I'm guessing it's important


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## Nubbins (Jul 26, 2015)

In your pic. Looks like a starter relay with a heavy gage red wire going towards the starter. If that is what I see hook up your battery and take a heavy gage wire from positive post on battery and touch the post on the starter. If the starter is working it should take off cranking. You can use a set of jumper cables. If u see an arch when you touch the starter and nothing happens try tapping on the starter housing lightly while power is applied to the starter


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## Pappy (Jul 26, 2015)

There is an easier way. 
Before we get into that....you have checked the fuse on the engine wiring harness haven't you? 
Okay then.
First off, am assuming you have a control box and key switch controlling the engine. 
Turn the key to the "Start" position and move the shift lever back and forth a little bit. 
What this will do is allow the internal neutral safety switch to make contact if it is out of position. 
Try that first. If that works it is an indication you need to adjust your shift cable. More on that later if you need to do that. 
Second, if that does not work then you can take a small ga. wire jumper and go from the battery lead on the starter solenoid and touch the yellow/red terminal on the solenoid. That should engage the starter (if the solenoid is good). 
Try to avoid tapping on the starter. There is a chance that the starter is not the original and if that is the case the replacement has permanent mold magnets which are only glued to the starter housing. Tapping will loosen them and or crack them very easily. 
The only reason a starter reacts to tapping is the possibility of a dirty contact on the brush or brushes. To avoid tapping you can simply turn the starter several revolutions by hand and "clean" the contact points.


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## Captain Ahab (Jul 27, 2015)

Good stuff pappy


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## rodknee1231 (Jul 27, 2015)

the wire I mentioned that was broke was a red one going to the rectifier do that should not be an issue. the fuse is good and I did jigle and move the throttle handle while trying to start it so the nss isn't the cause I'm going to jump it tonight and see what it does. if it does turn over what should I start looking for as to why the key won't start it


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## Pappy (Jul 27, 2015)

The battery supplies power through the main red cable to the solenoid. From there the wiring harness has a main red wire on the same lug as the battery red cable that has to be intact that passes through the ten pin connector then to the control box and key switch. 
When the key is turned to the on position the ground is taken away from the black/yellow lead, the purple lead becomes energized as well. 
When the key switch is turned to the start position the yellow/red lead becomes energized and closes the contacts in the start solenoid. Current then passes from the main red battery lead directly across or through the solenoid to the starter. 
Since the ground has been removed from the ignition system that system is now live and can supply the needed spark to start. 
That is the basics of that circuit. I have purposely left out other circuits at this point. 
This should give you everything you need to troubleshoot a starter issue. A simple test light and an ohmeter is all that is needed here to trace current and continuity.
If you find that the starter itself is the culprit there are brush kits available for it.


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## rodknee1231 (Jul 27, 2015)

ok I think I'm following you I will try to jump the starter solenoid tonight and see what that does


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## kofkorn (Jul 27, 2015)

Just a quick comment: It's always better to try to jump the starter by activating the solenoid. No large sparks or arcs that way. If you suspect a bad solenoid and want to go straight to the starter, make sure you hook up your jumper cable pos to the starter first, then touch the other end to the battery pos. This will keep any potential arcs from destroying the thread on the stud. One good arc and you may not be able to remove the battery lead later.

Good luck!


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## rodknee1231 (Jul 27, 2015)

thanks guys I'll let you all know. one other things how hard should the motor be to turn by hand I can turn it and feel a little compression but you think with 4 cylinders it would be hard to turn right ?


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## rodknee1231 (Jul 27, 2015)

ok so which ones do I touch I done wanna mess this up


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## Nubbins (Jul 27, 2015)

According to pappy the yellow red on the soleniod is the switch wire. I've only work on a few evinrudes and not familiar with color codes in the harness. That should engage the soleniod


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## Nubbins (Jul 27, 2015)

I see no colors in your pic. The small wire should energize the soleniod.


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## rodknee1231 (Jul 27, 2015)

the left side of the picture is the top. the very large red one then the yellow one on the terminal to the right of that then a blank one then 2 red wires on the bottom


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## Nubbins (Jul 27, 2015)

The wire on the small terminal. A solenoid is an electric switch. When energized it will connect the two large terminals. One side will have battery voltage. The other goes to the starter


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## rodknee1231 (Jul 27, 2015)

interesting I must not be getting power there or the solenoid is bad


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## rodknee1231 (Jul 27, 2015)

ok either I'm doing something wrong or the starter is shot. I touched a wire from positive post of the battery to the starter for and got nothing tried jumping the solenoid and got nothing the battery has juice in it because the bilge pump kicks on. do I need to do something with the negative wire or disconnect the big red plug on the engine


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## Nubbins (Jul 27, 2015)

You need to trace power and ground to the motor. You can take a set of jumper cables put the pos. to the big wire at the starter and touch the housing of starter with the ground. This will test the starter. If you want you can remove the starter to check it the same way. Make sure you have a good hot battery good connections.


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## rodknee1231 (Jul 27, 2015)

ok I'll try that. all without the big red connection plugged in correct


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## Nubbins (Jul 27, 2015)

I would unplug it. Just for peace of mind


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## rodknee1231 (Jul 27, 2015)

ok. if I get nothing them I'm assuming it's a bad starter ?


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## Pappy (Jul 27, 2015)

Just looked at your photo. Is that other terminal on the solenoid blank?
Should be a ground wire on that one if the solenoid is the correct solenoid for the engine.


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## Pappy (Jul 27, 2015)

Just looked at your photo. Is that other terminal on the solenoid blank?
Should be a ground wire on that one if the solenoid is the correct solenoid for the engine. 
Actually, in looking at it that looks like an automotive part. The original was held on with a strap with a piece of rubber under it and a screw at each end of the strap. 
Billy Bob and Bubba have been busy on your engine!


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## rodknee1231 (Jul 27, 2015)

yes there is a blank one there is the small one next to the battery lead. I'm guessing that's my problem


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## Pappy (Jul 27, 2015)

Check it with an ohmeter and see if it is connected to the mount.


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## rodknee1231 (Jul 27, 2015)

or its aftermarket. will it work or do I need another one could I connect the ground to that and be good


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## rodknee1231 (Jul 27, 2015)

I'm horrible with electronics so bear with me how do I test this I may be able to borrow an ohm meter from a friend


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## kofkorn (Jul 28, 2015)

Pappy said:


> Just looked at your photo. Is that other terminal on the solenoid blank?
> Should be a ground wire on that one if the solenoid is the correct solenoid for the engine.



Pappy, I noticed the same thing this morning. Also, it looks like one of the heavy gauge wires is missing too. It looks like the wire from the battery to the input side of the solenoid is missing. The two smaller wires that are there go to the controls and the breakout block for charging. If the pos from the battery isn't there, the controls aren't getting power, and can't activate the solenoid. 

So two things need to be done
1) hook up a small (14-16 ga) wire from the small terminal to ground
2) hook a heavy (4-6 ga) wire from the battery to the input side of the solenoid (same post as the two small red wires). 

take a look at the pics from a solenoid on one of the motors I'm working on (battery cable isn't hooked in)

Yellow and black wires to small posts; Battery wire missing



Black wire to ground



Here's a schematic of what the wiring should look like:


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## Pappy (Jul 28, 2015)

Absolutely correct. If it was a snake it would have bit me!


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## rodknee1231 (Jul 28, 2015)

ok I was under the influence that the solenoid had power from the battery through the big red plug


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## rodknee1231 (Jul 28, 2015)

ok also does it matter where I connect the ground to


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## kofkorn (Jul 28, 2015)

It actually goes the other way. The big red plug gets its battery power from the little wires on the solenoid touching the battery cable. So the power to drive the solenoid goes:

Battery > Large Solenoid terminal > Small Red Wire > Red Plug > Key switch > back to Red Plug > Small Yellow Wire > Solenoid > Black Wire > Ground.

Convoluted, but it works 

Ground location doesn't really matter as long as it is a solid connection. If possible, tie it in to the same screw as another ground (the ground for the coils is a good spot.)

Good luck!


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## rodknee1231 (Jul 28, 2015)

seriously you guys rock I would have been so flustered with this thanks everyone I'll let you know how it goes


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## Nubbins (Jul 28, 2015)

Don't know which I am. Billy bob, or Bubba. LOL. Great catch on the missing cable. After I blew it up as big as I could, sssss I did get bit by that snake. First time trying to help someone this way. What takes 15 mins to do in person taking this long is hard. You wish you could just drive over and help. I would double check the ground cable. Seein as me or Bubba left those 2off don't be surprised!!! LOL. Working behind some else's work can be trying. Good luck. And you guys keep up the good work!!!!


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## rodknee1231 (Jul 28, 2015)

well when I bought the boat it didn't have a battery and the motor was just put back on cuz he was gonna keep it so I suspect in the mounting and dismounting of that outboard some things were removed and never put back so not surprised there. it is set up for 2 batteries as well so I got a lot of wiring to figure out as far as pumps and lights


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## Nubbins (Jul 28, 2015)

Most are set up engine and accessories on one and trolling motor by itself. Assuming you have a trolling motor


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## rodknee1231 (Jul 28, 2015)

yea all the plugs and fish finder is upfront and runs back to auxiliary battery spot


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## rodknee1231 (Jul 29, 2015)

ok here's an up date I got the motor to turn over I ran the positive to the solenoid like you guys said and the negative to the block and there was a ground wire dangling I didn't see so I connected that to the solenoid ad well and it fired right up. then I took the motor off and put it on a stand and started disassembling the carbs and pulled the plugs. the plugs were pretty dark and wet but that doesn't mean much since it sat for a while and the carbs that were supposedly 're done were pretty bad one bowl filled with separated oil and the other with water most likely condensation. the inside of the engine looks good and clean from what I see. gonna clean the carbs tomorrow and 're assemble with new plugs and see how it sparks.


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## rodknee1231 (Jul 29, 2015)

one other thing I noticed on the opposite side of the choke lever there is a wire that was dangling it connects to the choke but I'm not sure what it's supposed to connect to View attachment 1


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## Nubbins (Jul 29, 2015)

If your looking at the wire At the top of choke solenoid a bolt thur it to mounting bolt that isn't there. That is the ground for the electric choke. Looks like purple on one side and ground on the other. When cleaning the carbs try to run something thru all the holes and passages. Sound like your well on your way


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## rodknee1231 (Jul 29, 2015)

I'm looking at the metal bar thing at the bottom of the choke solenoid sorry wasn't sure what it was called ha


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## kofkorn (Jul 30, 2015)

Looks like the throttle linkage that someone attached to the choke. Take a look at this picture from a '76 200hp V6. Doesn't the bend look a lot like the one you're holding?? 




Are both of your carbs properly linked and operating at exactly the same time? If not, you may need to move that linkage over to your throttle side and link your carbs together. 

If they're already connected, then someone may have stuck an extra part on ?? :-k


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## rodknee1231 (Jul 30, 2015)

yea both carbs were synchronized properly


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## kofkorn (Jul 30, 2015)

Ahhh, here we go. A little more digging and I found it! It links the choke to the throttle. 

take a look here:


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## rodknee1231 (Jul 30, 2015)

perfect thanks I believe I'm missing the plastic piece that holds the link


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## rodknee1231 (Jul 30, 2015)

here's a better pic of where that piece should be wonder how I will connect the rod now


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## kofkorn (Jul 30, 2015)

I probably wouldn't connect it. As long as your choke solenoid is operating the choke plates, and the throttle butterflies are functioning properly there's no need for the linkage. I see several images of other motors that have this linkage removed. The only purpose I can see is that it's potentially allowing the choke to stay cracked open depending on the throttle position. If you have a higher idle, it will keep the choke open slightly. 

https://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc244/wildmaninal/Picture006-1.jpg
https://smalloutboards.com/images/e8573/insideside.jpg
https://i310.photobucket.com/albums/kk406/cdnfthree/002-1.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/844/t3qt.jpg

Without the linkage, you'll need to be a little more aware of the starting procedure, bumping the choke on with the key occasionally until it can stay running on it's own. This is actually the procedure on most of the two stroke motors, with both the choke or electric primer circuit. 

Give it a try and see what you think. If you don't like it, I'm sure the plastic clip is readily available (P/N 0313329)

Good luck!


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## rodknee1231 (Jul 30, 2015)

that answers that so what about timing do I need to time it what I'd the advance supposed to be


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## kofkorn (Jul 30, 2015)

There usually is a sticker on the front of the air box that has the motor year and timing advance (at a specific speed). I've rarely found the timing to be a significant problem, but you can attempt to check it if you want. There's a procedure on another site that explains how to get the timing really close without running the motor (Google Reeves WOT timing). 

Have you replaced the water pump yet? Now would be a good time. Then you can float it and see how it runs. 

Good luck!


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## rodknee1231 (Jul 30, 2015)

haven't changed the water pump, po said it was just changed I'll see how good of a pee stream I get wen I get it to run I got new plugs and put them on and proceeded to check for a spark and didn't have one on the first one I checked at that point my 3 month old son was in need of attention so I called it a night. but I was wondering this motor doesn't turn very fast if I just jump the solenoid with a battery would that cause it to not want to spark or have any compression my compression checker hardly moved at all


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## rodknee1231 (Jul 30, 2015)

besides the impeller the power pack ant the coils. what else hoes out on these frequently enough that I will have to or should replace. the carbs are clean and look good. I know the rectifier is getting replaced.


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## kofkorn (Jul 31, 2015)

rodknee1231 said:


> I was wondering this motor doesn't turn very fast if I just jump the solenoid with a battery would that cause it to not want to spark or have any compression my compression checker hardly moved at all



Ok, that's a little concerning. How slow is slow? The flywheel should be completely revolving 3 or 4 times a second with the starter. If you are getting less than 2 turns a second, it's going to have a very hard time starting. Do you have another battery that you can use to rule that out? Just because your bilge pump is running, doesn't mean your battery is good. Jump it to your car if you need to. Get the starter spinning well so we can move on to the compression.

The compression is the main concern here. You should be getting some kind of reading. First thing is that I would check your gauge in something that runs normally like your lawnmower. Make sure it's working properly. 

Ideally, you want that motor north of 120 psi per cylinder, but at that age 110-115 isn't uncommon, and anything above 100 should give you a reasonably good running motor. Even if the starter is turning really slow, you should be getting a reading of some kind. Now since we don't know when this motor last ran, the compression check will be a starting point. It'll likely go up a little after the motor's been used for a bit and the cylinders get lubed back up. 

A couple of notes when testing compression: 

1) remove the kill switch lanyard to kill the spark to the plugs.
2) remove ALL of the spark plugs to reduce the work the starter motor needs to do, this will also help to increase the starter speed
3) Move the throttle all the way to wide open. This reduces the vacuum that will also reduce the compression reading
4) Engage the starter until you get a couple of turns of the motor without the gauge increasing in pressure. (Shouldn't take much more than 5 or 6 turns of the motor to get there)

Good luck!

One last comment: I would at least pull the lower unit and check the water pump. The PO can tell you he changed it, but it's so critical, I don't take anyone else's word for it. Especially if it was done "Last year", as that is easily mis-remembered. If it is in poor condition, you can toast your motor and that 20 minutes you saved by taking the PO's word for it means you need a new motor.


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## kofkorn (Jul 31, 2015)

rodknee1231 said:


> besides the impeller the power pack ant the coils. what else hoes out on these frequently enough that I will have to or should replace. the carbs are clean and look good. I know the rectifier is getting replaced.



Let's get the compression confirmed first. Fixing the spark on a bad motor isn't going to do you any good. Once the starter is spinning properly, it'll be easier to diagnose spark issues too.


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## rodknee1231 (Jul 31, 2015)

I think my problem was that I didn't have a good connection with the jump wire I was just touching the leads so I'll probably connect the cables and the jumper wire the right way and see if it turns faster. it turned real fast when it was on the boat so it has to be connections I should have connected the compression tester when it was still on the boat


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## rodknee1231 (Jul 31, 2015)

wired up the solenoid and battery better and had a very fast turn. unfortunately I got low compression, cylinder 1 is 55 psi, cyl 2 is 45psi, cyl 3 is 70 and cyl 4 is 70. so that is pretty concerning I do have spark in all 4 cylinders surprisingly so what everyone's prognosis should I do head gaskets ?


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## rodknee1231 (Aug 1, 2015)

I'm looking at head gaskets and the only ones I can find are for a 1979 and up will they fit my 1976 or do I need to keep searching


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## Pappy (Aug 1, 2015)

When you are doing compression on a 2-stroke Johnson or Evinrude there is no need nor mention of opening the throttle blades. Mainly a 4-stroke thing. Not going to hurt anything but not needed.
250RPM is the minimum magic number for a good starting system. Old or bad crimps on the cables are common with this vintage. After trying the starter feel the cables and ends to see if any are warm or hot to the touch and if so, repair. 
As long as the compression is within 10% of each other, regardless of the number, you will have something to work with. 
If.....you decide to pull the cylinder heads and at this point, why, replace all water diverters while in there. If that engine or any other older V-4 was overheated those diverters melt, push over, and will block future water flow.


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## rodknee1231 (Aug 1, 2015)

so even with those low numbers that's ok ? if the water pump checks out ok could I go ahead and give it fuel ? also if I take the water pump apart can I just put it back together or does it need re sealed


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## Pappy (Aug 1, 2015)

rodknee1231 said:


> so even with those low numbers that's ok ? if the water pump checks out ok could I go ahead and give it fuel ? also if I take the water pump apart can I just put it back together or does it need re sealed



No. Didn't catch those numbers until I re-read. 
Get the starting RPM up and re-do compression and we can start from there.


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## rodknee1231 (Aug 1, 2015)

I already did the rpms at start are pretty high.


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## kofkorn (Aug 1, 2015)

You can pull the heads and take a good look at the condition of the cylinders. At this point, you're going to have to really think about how much time and effort you want to put into this motor. Doubtful that those numbers are due to head gaskets. 

Take the heads off and take some pictures. If there are significant axial scores/scratches, you will need to do a complete rebuild.


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## rodknee1231 (Aug 1, 2015)

ugh. I'll check the reeds too maybe ones broke or something. I I did want to ask you guys if I can use a 79 year gasket on my 76 they are a lot cheaper and look the same


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## Pappy (Aug 1, 2015)

No....that head gasket will not work on your engine. Two different cu. in. engines. Yours is 92 cu. in. and the 79 is 99 cu. in. 

A cheaper way to inspect is to remove the intake by-pass covers and have a look. Gaskets are alot cheaper. These covers are the ones on the outside of the "V" and usually have things like the starter solenoid bolted to them. 
You should be able to see the top of each piston to see if they are burned and also see the cyl. walls and piston skirts to look for grooves and scuffing.


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## rodknee1231 (Aug 1, 2015)

ok I'll give that a shot


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## rodknee1231 (Aug 1, 2015)

the reason I think head gasket is that one side has lower compression than the other and the gasket on that side looks newer so I'm wondering if it was done wrong or something


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## rodknee1231 (Aug 1, 2015)

View attachment 1
View attachment 2
this is the cylinder with the lowest compression the gasket was definitely old but that piston is done. exactly what I was hoping I would not find.


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## Pappy (Aug 1, 2015)

Okay, now it is decision time. 
What I will tell you is that, overall, the 92 cu.in. 85hp is one of the best running, most durable "big" engine ever produced. They are normally very hard to kill. 
We had that engine on test boats and would run them a full 500 hours at WOT for the most part. Jumping surf, the test drivers told me they just let the 85s eat and never feathered the throttles. 
At the end of the 500 hour endurance cycle the powerheads were torn down, measured and put back on test for another 500 hours, with the same rings, until the end of the test was reached. Those engines just would not give up. 
They have incredible bottom end torque and flatten out like a pancake around 4000rpm. Great ski engine. Economical to run. 
If it were mine I would bore to oversize, install 4 new pistons, rings, and a gasket set.


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## rodknee1231 (Aug 1, 2015)

I'd love to but I don't think I have to cash. but that means I run the risk of siezing it or blowing it up. if it were you on a minimal budget what would you do


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## rodknee1231 (Aug 1, 2015)

I will say the other side is spotless looks new


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## Pappy (Aug 1, 2015)

You are only looking at the intake side of the pistons....the cool side.
But, you should be able to look at the cylinder walls on the exhaust sides with a good light and see what kind of shape they are in. 
Lets say it overheated. (You will be able to tell once the cylinder heads are removed by looking at the water diverters).
The exhaust sides will be the first to go, then if the owner does not recognize what is happening fast enough the build up of material coming loose from the exhaust side will build up and force the piston over toward the intake side of the cylinder and damage occurs there as well.


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## rodknee1231 (Aug 1, 2015)

yea unfortunately I can't see the cylinder wall the piston does now go down far enough.


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## rodknee1231 (Aug 1, 2015)

I take that back. I can see the exhaust side walls they are not perfect but much better than what the piston looks like on the intake side you can kind of see it on here


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## rodknee1231 (Aug 1, 2015)

and of course the impeller is disintegrating.... I'm gonna run this motor then rebuild in a year or 2 When I have the cash


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## Pappy (Aug 1, 2015)

Do not spare the oil if that is your decision. Run it rich.


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## rodknee1231 (Aug 1, 2015)

what do you suggest I run


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## Nubbins (Aug 1, 2015)

Pappy is 100 percent right in what should be done on this motor. Everyone who I've known that has had one and doesn't own it now compares everything they've had and have to it. You asked the question minimal budget. When you say that there are risks with short cuts. That being said I have had many successes and a failure in my dealings with outboards. All major work I've done has been on mercury. Generally what what you have on the cyl walls is build up from the piston. (Alluminum) I can't really tell what the rings look like. I have removed the pistons. Carefully honed the the cyl to remove the build up. Not the grooves or scars. Slide the old ring In the cyl and look at the end gap and measure top of ring travel and bottom. The pistons seldom can be cleaned up if there is much scaring in the ring land area. I've always be able to find used pistons with a little looking or just replace the worst ones. If the end gaps look good, cyls aren't scared up real bad. Put a set of rings and gsks in and give it a go. It won't be like new but I have gotten good life out of the ones I've done. The ones I know where they are are still going great. This works well with tn 2 stroke engines. 4 stroke is probably a different story. I've done mechanic work for 30 plus years so much of this is feel for what can be used or not. Engines usually have a min and max specs on clearances allowed if you can find them. Pappy is right in his call on this motor, and be it mine and my situation right now money wise his call would be the way I'd go. But there has been times I've done it as outlined above for money reasons. You asked for a minimal budget suggestion this is mine. Hope it helps


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## rodknee1231 (Aug 1, 2015)

yea the thing is that the piston is bad but the rings don't really look scared at all. so your saying I can probably get by with honing the cylinders and replacing the piston without boring over.


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## Pappy (Aug 1, 2015)

The third photo down of the set you took with the by-pass covers off. 
That photo clearly shows rings that are mechanically stuck (with debris). Farther around I can see the same rings are stuck with carbon which can be treated. The mechanical sticking cannot. 
What you have to remember here is that you are working with a 2-stroke. It will produce power and heat with every revolution and as such it has to get rid of the heat much faster. If this is not possible then the engine will leave you out on the water at some point. 
If you do the work yourself the cost of new parts is not prohibitive. Pistons, rings, new rod bolts, gasket set, gel seal are the main ingredients plus some gasket sealing compound. 
Purchase a service manual and go over it to the point you are comfortable with knowing the NEXT step that is coming up in a rebuild, rebuild it, and the engine should provide you with years of good service. 
If you decide to run it as is I am afraid you will be pretty much on your own.


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## rodknee1231 (Aug 1, 2015)

I agree I'm gonna just wait till winter and do it all. is there any good rebuild threads on here I can't find a whole lot on Google


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## Nubbins (Aug 1, 2015)

Hope when my computer returns I might be able to view the pics better. This phone isn't all that


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## rodknee1231 (Aug 2, 2015)

well I pulled the whole intake off at the manifold. I'm going to slowly start pulling this apart and labeling the parts so putting it back together is a breeze. I can't really do much more at this time since I don't have a flywheel puller. as soon as I get one I'll pull the flywheel and armature bracket. I think I'll leave the crank and crank case in and remove the cylinders to get machined then disconnect the pistons at the wristpins looks doable. this is new ground for me so correct me if I am wrong. and again I am going to order a service manual but I'm just doing the easy stuff for now. any input is appreciated


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## Pappy (Aug 2, 2015)

I would just not do anything until you have the money to start on the project. 
Leave the complete powerhead assembly intact and pull it as a unit. Disassemble on the bench. 
Less chance of moisture damage while you are waiting.


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## rodknee1231 (Aug 2, 2015)

I have a climate controlled garage it stays in I think I may do some convincing of the wife for some money here well see lol


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## rodknee1231 (Aug 3, 2015)

going to pull off the cylinders and try to home the pits and scratches out at my work if that works I'm going to buy 2 pistons for the one side and for the side where both were reading 70 psi I'm go I'm just going to replace the rings. I do have a question though. an I run one side bored over and one side stock bore on the engine not sure how that will affect how it runs


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## Captain Ahab (Aug 3, 2015)

I do not think you can run with out all pistons and displacement balanced at least not run very well


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## Pappy (Aug 3, 2015)

the help is available to you if you do the job correctly. If not, you are on your own.


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## rodknee1231 (Aug 3, 2015)

well I work at a machine shop we build hydraulic units so I think we may have a cylinder hone in the shop and I work with a guy that's a 2 stroke guru so I'll have him look at the cylinders and see if he can hone it smooth and keep it stock bore that would be cheapest and easiest to do


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## rodknee1231 (Aug 4, 2015)

verified we have the tools and knowledge at my work to hone the cylinders so I started to take apart a little more. found a destroyed head gasket and the cylinder walls were surprisingly smooth probably not going to need bored over should be salvageable View attachment 1
View attachment 2
waiting on my manual to come before I got any farther. I marked all the head bolts so they go back in the same spot too.


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## rodknee1231 (Aug 9, 2015)

ok who know what years will fit this motor as far as pistons go. I found one from a 73 supposed to be a 3.375 bore but I want to be positive


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