# Air compressor repair or mod



## lckstckn2smknbrls (Oct 3, 2014)

I picked up an old Sears Craftsman air compressor, paint sprayer. It was made by Devillbiss in 1981, it's a 2hp, 220v, 150psi with about a 15 gallon tank.
The motor is 220v only and someone tried to convert it to 110v they put a 110v starting capacitor on the motor, spliced the power cord wires together and put a 110 plug on it. I haven't looked into the splice yet, the motor will run for a few seconds on 110v and it does build up pressure in the tank.
I'd like to properly convert it to 110v as I don't have 220v in my garage and it would be too difficult to run it there. 
Harbor freight sells a 110v motor that might work the problem is the style of motor mount on the compressor is no longer made. It's called a pivot mount or ballerina mount, I would have to fabricate a mounting system. My other option would be to fix it, sell it and buy an other one. Sears and Devillbiss are of no help they don't support this model in anyway.
So my questions are has anyone converted an air compressor from 220v to 110v?
Can the pressure switch be used for 220v or 110v?
Does anyone know how to figure out the correct starting capacitor for the 220v motor?


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## KMixson (Oct 3, 2014)

I would fix it, sell it and buy another one. If you run the motor on 110v you will be using more watts than if you were running it on 220v. A higher voltage motor running the same equipment will use less electricity. They do make some motors that are capable of running on 110 or 220 by just reconnecting the wires differently but you said there was problem with the mounting bracket type you have.


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## lovedr79 (Oct 3, 2014)

look at sears website, go to parts direct. i bet they have it there.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Oct 3, 2014)

lovedr79 said:


> look at sears website, go to parts direct. i bet they have it there.


You'd be wrong. 
No one makes a replacement motor with this style mount.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Oct 3, 2014)

KMixson said:


> I would fix it, sell it and buy another one. If you run the motor on 110v you will be using more watts than if you were running it on 220v. A higher voltage motor running the same equipment will use less electricity. They do make some motors that are capable of running on 110 or 220 by just reconnecting the wires differently but you said there was problem with the mounting bracket type you have.


Running a dual voltage motor on 110v doubles the amps the motor draws.
The way the mount works is there is a pin under the motor that pivots like a teeter totter.


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## PATRIOT (Oct 3, 2014)

Do you have an electric dryer or range?
If so, fab a long pigtail, problem solved.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Oct 4, 2014)

PATRIOT said:


> Do you have an electric dryer or range?
> If so, fab a long pigtail, problem solved.


No, the house is gas. The electric panel is in the back right corner of the basement, the garage is attached and in the front left of the house. The basement is finished so I can't run power to the garage.
When the house was built the planning for the elect was lacking, there were no outlets on the exterior sides or back of the house. Due to some storm damage last spring the siding had to be replaced, I took advantage of the situation and put 3 GFI outlets on the back of the house.


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## great white (Oct 4, 2014)

My .02?

Fix it, sell it, get what works for your situ.

8)


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Oct 4, 2014)

great white said:


> My .02?
> 
> Fix it, sell it, get what works for your situ.
> 
> 8)


I think that maybe the best solution. I googled how to figure out the proper starting capacitor but didn't get a good answer.


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## Snowshoe (Oct 4, 2014)

I'd junk it. The tank probably has major internal rust problems after 30+ years.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Oct 4, 2014)

Snowshoe said:


> I'd junk it. The tank probably has major internal rust problems after 30+ years.


I opened the drain when the tank had some pressure in it, No water or rust particles came out.
For it's age it not missing anything, every nut, bolt, screw and piece is there.


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## lovedr79 (Oct 4, 2014)

Whats the model number


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## lswoody (Oct 4, 2014)

Fix it


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## Steve A W (Oct 4, 2014)

Find an electric motor repair shop and get an estimate for repair.
That compressor made in the early eighties will be better than what You can get today.
Good Luck.

Steve A W


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Oct 7, 2014)

I took the mess of a splice in the power cord apart and found 3' of black electric tape and found it wired blk to blk, wht to wht and grn to grn. The only issue is the 110 plug and the 110v starter capacitor. I picked up a new 250v, 20a plug and am returning the compressor to it's original configuration and will test it.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Oct 8, 2014)

The compressor was sold by sears and made by Devillbiss. Devillbiss sourced the motor from Doerr and Doerr was owned by WW Grainger in the early '80's. 
I went to Grainger's this morning and while they didn't have any info on the motor itself the tech I talked to did tell me the 110v starting capacitor was correct for the motor. I'll put the new plug on the cord remount the motor and test it out. 
The tech also told me an easy way to make an adapter if I want to mount a new 110v motor onto the compressor


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## Jim311 (Oct 10, 2014)

For what it's worth, I've been using a Harbor Freight 24 or 30 gallon compressor for years without problems. I made sure to get the oiled version. I paid just over a hundred bucks for it and you can find a similar deal if you watch their sales. I wouldn't put much time or money into what you've got.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Oct 11, 2014)

Jim311 said:


> For what it's worth, I've been using a Harbor Freight 24 or 30 gallon compressor for years without problems. I made sure to get the oiled version. I paid just over a hundred bucks for it and you can find a similar deal if you watch their sales. I wouldn't put much time or money into what you've got.


Harbor freight has a sale now for a compressor in the size I'd want for $154.00.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Oct 11, 2014)

I took the compressor to my mom and dad yesterday, I put several 220v outlets in his shop years ago. Plugged the compressor in without the belt on then flipped on the power switch and the motor started right up. Turned the motor on and off several times and it worked just fine. I then put the belt on and with the tank drain open let the compressor run for 20 minutes pretty much following the original break in procedure. That went well so I closed the tank drain and the compressor started to build up pressure. I let it get to about 60psi and pulled the over pressure valve, I know it was free but just wanted to test it again before I let the compressor go to it's full pressure of 150psi. 
The pressure gauge climbed to 120psi and the compressor cycled off. I could hear a slight hiss so I know I had a leak somewhere. Turns out the compression fitting at the coupler was leaking I tried to tighten it up but that didn't help so I removed the tube from the coupler and regulator. I put Teflon thread seal on the fittings and reinstalled the tube. I was still leaking at the coupler. The tube has a slight bend it at the coupler and I think the tube has a small kink in it that can't be fixed but I'll keep working on it.
I have a total of $4.00 invested so far and have 2 issues still to address. It's not getting to 150psi so the pressure switch is out of adjustment or was replaced at sometime with the wrong one and the leaking compression fitting. I could bypass the leaking fitting by moving the coupler so it comes off the pressure regulator.
I'll get a new air filter, drive belt and change the oil in the pump.


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## Y_J (Oct 11, 2014)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> It's not getting to 150 psi so the pressure switch is out of adjustment or was replaced at sometime with the wrong one and the leaking compression fitting. I could bypass the leaking fitting by moving the coupler so it comes off the pressure regulator.
> I'll get a new air filter, drive belt and change the oil in the pump.


Have you tried adjusting the regulator to get up to 150 psi? Just thinking out loud...


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Oct 11, 2014)

Y_J said:


> lckstckn2smknbrls said:
> 
> 
> > It's not getting to 150 psi so the pressure switch is out of adjustment or was replaced at sometime with the wrong one and the leaking compression fitting. I could bypass the leaking fitting by moving the coupler so it comes off the pressure regulator.
> ...


Not yet, I don't have a 220v power source at home. I did find 2 electrical conduits in an unfinished area under the basement stairs and I believe one of them goes to the A/C unit outside. I should be able to install an electric box into the conduit run and run a new line into the garage.


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## Y_J (Oct 11, 2014)

lckstckn2smknbrls, Do you by chance have any experience with the 110v welders? I been looking at one at HF but it's been way to many yrs since I've done any welding and wondered just how well they work. Playing with 220v is somewhat out of my league as far as running new lines goes


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## Steve A W (Oct 11, 2014)

The compressor will run cooler and last longer at 120psi.
I've got all My compressors set at 120psi and never lacked for air.

Steve A W


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Oct 12, 2014)

Y_J said:


> lckstckn2smknbrls, Do you by chance have any experience with the 110v welders? I been looking at one at HF but it's been way to many yrs since I've done any welding and wondered just how well they work. Playing with 220v is somewhat out of my league as far as running new lines goes


Sorry I don't. The most welding I've done was 35 years ago in high school and it was oxy-acedling. Running 220v is as easy as running two 110v circuits in one conduit. From the 2 pole breaker you run the 2 hot leads and the ground to the outlet, there's no neutral in a 220v circuit and it doesn't matter which hot lead goes to which terminal on the outlet. Just be sure you use the proper gauge wire for the amperage your working with.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Oct 12, 2014)

Steve A W said:


> The compressor will run cooler and last longer at 120psi.
> I've got all My compressors set at 120psi and never lacked for air.
> 
> Steve A W


I probably will leave it the way it is but you never know. It is going to be a huge improvement over the tiny compressor I have now.


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## KMixson (Oct 12, 2014)

Steve A W said:


> The compressor will run cooler and last longer at 120psi.
> I've got all My compressors set at 120psi and never lacked for air.
> 
> Steve A W



Exactly. You very rarely need more than 120PSI of air. The thing you need more often is CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) which is volume. Most all of the accessories you operate will run fine at 90PSI. If you get up above 120PSI you it will be more dangerous due to the fact that you can get air shot into your skin much more easily even from the exhaust of the accessory you are using. Be careful.


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## JMichael (Oct 12, 2014)

All of the homeowner grade compressors that I've seen from that era had a max PSI of 120. I've got a 22gal Sanborn that I bought in 83 that is switchable from 110/220 but the factory max psi was and still is set to 120. I also own a newer 6 gal Porter Cable compressor that shuts off at 150, but as stated above, most air tools will operate just fine at 90-100 psi. I know all of my air tools and nail guns will.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Oct 12, 2014)

KMixson said:


> Steve A W said:
> 
> 
> > The compressor will run cooler and last longer at 120psi.
> ...


One thing I have not bin able to find out is the exact tank size or the cfm output. The tank is much bigger than the 10 gallon tanks and similar to the 15 to 20 ones. Is there a formula to figure out the cfm's at different psi outputs?


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Oct 12, 2014)

JMichael said:


> All of the homeowner grade compressors that I've seen from that era had a max PSI of 120. I've got a 22gal Sanborn that I bought in 83 that is switchable from 110/220 but the factory max psi was and still is set to 120. I also own a newer 6 gal Porter Cable compressor that shuts off at 150, but as stated above, most air tools will operate just fine at 90-100 psi. I know all of my air tools and nail guns will.


I wish it was a dual voltage motor that would make things simpler. I looked at the Porter cable compressor but eventually want to use the compressor to paint a Starcraft boat I'm working on and the 6 gallon tank just wasn't going to cut it.


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## New River Rat (Oct 12, 2014)

Steve A W said:


> The compressor will run cooler and last longer at 120psi.
> I've got all My compressors set at 120psi and never lacked for air.
> 
> Steve A W




Got your font set at 120, too.


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## Steve A W (Oct 12, 2014)

New River Rat said:


> Steve A W said:
> 
> 
> > The compressor will run cooler and last longer at 120psi.
> ...




New River Rat
I always post with a bigger font so people with eyes like Mine can read it easier. :shock: 

Steve A W


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## Y_J (Oct 13, 2014)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> Y_J said:
> 
> 
> > lckstckn2smknbrls, Do you by chance have any experience with the 110v welders? I been looking at one at HF but it's been way to many yrs since I've done any welding and wondered just how well they work. Playing with 220v is somewhat out of my league as far as running new lines goes
> ...


Sounds about like me only the high school welding was 45 yrs ago. Jeez time goes by way to fast some times.
I was considering buying that 110v wire welder at HF but I think I'll just borrow my neighbors until I find out just how well I can do with that one.


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## Y_J (Oct 13, 2014)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> Y_J said:
> 
> 
> > lckstckn2smknbrls, Do you by chance have any experience with the 110v welders? I been looking at one at HF but it's been way to many yrs since I've done any welding and wondered just how well they work. Playing with 220v is somewhat out of my league as far as running new lines goes
> ...


Thanks for explaining how to do that. I'll be putting up that 10' X 17' Portable Garage from Harbor Freight come next payday and was wanting to have 110V and 220V out there. Add a couple of work benches, a bigger compressor that's bigger than what I have(3 Gal, 100psi), I'll be able to work on the boats and trailers without the wind and rain bothering me.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Oct 13, 2014)

Y_J said:


> lckstckn2smknbrls said:
> 
> 
> > Y_J said:
> ...


How old is your house, What's the amperage of the electric panel?


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## Y_J (Oct 14, 2014)

It's an older mobile home (11x70) but I'm not sure of the amperage on the 110v or the 220v. I know the cloths dryer runs off of the 220v and the window AC also does but everything else is 110v. I've got a breaker panel in the back bedroom. I guess I could try to look at that and figure it out. I know if I try to run to many things at the same time it kicks the breaker, like the dish washer and the microwave just don't work to well together LOL.
I do have an outdoor extension cord running from the living room out the window so I got power out there for things like my pressure washer, angle grinder (which I found today likes human flesh) and my electric roto-tiller. I have found that the AC and the dryer will work together (both are 220v)


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Oct 14, 2014)

The a/c and dryer are probably on separate 220v circuits unlike the dishwasher and microwave which are on the same circuit.


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## Y_J (Oct 14, 2014)

That makes sense. Thanks.. I'm gonna try to figure out how to get a different circuit for the portable garage..


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## New River Rat (Oct 15, 2014)

Steve A W said:


> New River Rat said:
> 
> 
> > Steve A W said:
> ...


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## lovedr79 (Oct 15, 2014)

do you have any open "slots" in your panel box at the house? for my garage i had 2 slots, so i ran a double pole 70a with 2 gauge to my garage and installed another panel box in my garage.


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## Y_J (Oct 15, 2014)

lovedr79 said:


> do you have any open "slots" in your panel box at the house? for my garage i had 2 slots, so i ran a double pole 70a with 2 gauge to my garage and installed another panel box in my garage.


There is only one slot left in the panel that's in the house. That will work for putting the 110v in the garage but not enough for a double pole. I'll have to go through it and see what is there that I can eliminate to make enough for a double pole. Or maybe I can try to run another 2 gauge from one of the other two 220v double poles to the garage to power another box. There are currently only 3 things here that run off of 220v. The hot water heater, the cloths dryer, and the window air conditioner/heater. The Cloths Dryer is the least used so maybe I could pull from that one? What do you think? I'm not an electrician so I don't know all the ins and outs of it all but can usually get buy on it as long as I remember to turn the power off before I mess with it.


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## lovedr79 (Oct 16, 2014)

i wouldnt try that. i would want a dedicated two pole for the garage. you can get mini breakers, they are single pole breakers that are half sized. i do not think they pass code for new construction though. i think they have 2 two single pole breakers in the size of a normal single pole breaker.


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## Y_J (Oct 16, 2014)

lovedr79 said:


> i wouldn't try that. i would want a dedicated two pole for the garage. you can get mini breakers, they are single pole breakers that are half sized. i do not think they pass code for new construction though. i think they have 2 two single pole breakers in the size of a normal single pole breaker.


Which would make for a 220V breaker? Cool.. I'll see if I can track one down this coming payday.. Thanks. hehehe BTW, no construction. This portable garage is more like an overgrown tent.


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## JMichael (Oct 17, 2014)

Y_J said:


> Which would make for a 220V breaker? Cool.. I'll see if I can track one down this coming payday.. Thanks. hehehe BTW, no construction. This portable garage is more like an overgrown tent.


No it wouldn't give you 220, it would give you 2 single 110v breakers in the same space that was previously taken up by only 1 breaker. But by installing 2 of the double mini's, you could have dedicated breakers to everything that you have right now and it would open up 2 slots that would allow you to install a double pole/220v breaker.


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## Y_J (Oct 17, 2014)

JMichael said:


> Y_J said:
> 
> 
> > Which would make for a 220V breaker? Cool.. I'll see if I can track one down this coming payday.. Thanks. hehehe BTW, no construction. This portable garage is more like an overgrown tent.
> ...


OK.. my bad.. I misunderstood. Sorry.. 
Thanks for all your tutoring on this issue with me... I really appreciate it.


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