# Canoe Stabilizers



## cmatthews_jm (Feb 21, 2012)

I know this isn't really referring to a 'tin' boat but I love to fish out of my canoe and with the spring coming around I'm looking to try and make some stabilizers so I can flip cover standing up that some larger boats may not be able to get to. Anyone ever made these or know somewhere I could get some without spending a huge amount of money. I have some ideas but I was curious what you guys might come up with.


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## Bigkat650 (Feb 21, 2012)

I have made some in the past for a canoe of mine. I used pool noodles for flotation. At first I used 1 noodle on each side about 4ft long. It added some stability, but not enough for me to stand up. I added a second noodle on each side, and that gave considerably more stability. Other options I considered was using boat fenders, but noodles were cheaper... Sorry I do not have any pictures anymore.

Basically I bought the thickest fun noodles I could find... I think had about a 5" diameter with a 1" hole through the center. I ran some electrical conduit through the center (PVC would probably work well too). The conduit was 4 inches longer then the noodle, so 2 inches protruded on each side past the noodle. I drilled a hole through each end of the conduit and ran a threaded bar through the hole and used nuts to tighten it to the conduit. I attached the threaded bars to two 2x4's which I ran across the canoe, one towards the front and one towards the back. I made the threaded bars about 12" long, and attached them to the 2x4's with wing nuts so I could adjust the height of the floats.

I only used them 2 or 3 times, but everything worked exactly as it was suppose to. The floats and 2x4's where as long as I could make them without drastically hindering the ability to paddle in the back and front seats. Ultimately, it was an improvement to no stabilizers--and cost me about $40 and maybe 2 or 3 hours to make them. If you want pictures, I may be able to find some... the pictures really tell the whole story

It would take about 8-10 minutes to assemble and disassemble it by myself... I basically transported it in 4 sections (the two 2x2's and the two floats w/ hardware)

EDIT: Pictures Found on my old abandoned Myspace page!!! This was before I added the second stabilizers on each side. Simple drilled another hole in the 2x4's and added them inside the existing floats.


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## fishmaster11 (Feb 21, 2012)

well iv had this idea for awhile but have never tried it i was wanting to get a box around 1'X1' an about 4' long line it with plastic and then fill with expanding foam then remove the foam block cover it in some kind i vinyl or maybe spray on bed liner like from auto zone to give it some added strength and durability than just the foam its self then fix them to the side of the canoe or out a couple of feet on an out rigger if you can picture what i have in my head lol it makes sence if not let me know and ill try to make more since out of it


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## fishmaster11 (Feb 21, 2012)

well after thinkin about it might be to big of a foam block but same idea for whatever size you would like


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## Symore (Feb 21, 2012)

https://www.sailboatstogo.com/v_page.php?content=stabilizer_length
These are what I use. I bought them last year and take my canoe out in the back bay of N.J. they work good. My canoe is a 15' grumman and I run a 2.5 moter off a side transom. They really keep the canoe stable.


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## fool4fish1226 (Feb 22, 2012)

CMatthews - I will try and get some pictures (tonight) of the ones I built for a 10' jon they work great and are adjustable


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## crabtree (Feb 22, 2012)

I've thought about throwing something together with a few empty 2 liter bottles. But I'm not concerned with how it looks, just the functionality.


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## cmatthews_jm (Feb 22, 2012)

Thanks for all the posts so far guys. While in class the today I was 'inspired' and drew up these quick blue prints if you wanna call them that. Then I mad a quick SketchUp model to kind of illustrate in 3D what I had in mind as far as the construction of the floats themselves is concerned. Everything is designed expecting to use PVC for everything. The floats are about 4' long total and I'm not sure how wide my canoe is yet or exactly how I'm gonna attach it to the canoe. I'm hoping for you guys to help me out with that one.

The first picture is a quick sketch up model I made just to give you a 3D idea. I couldn't make it exactly the way I wanted but its close.

The notebook scan:

Top left sketch - kind of shows how the vertical post will attach to the floats themselves. I was thinking of running a pvc pipe through the floats and connecting two sides with a three way connector and making that all one piece.

Top right sketch - shows how the vertical post attaches to the outrigger. The outrigger and the post will be separate and a pin of some sort will adjust the depth of the float.

Middle sketch - shows the outrigger system. There was a link that someone posted for a sailboat canoe set up, not sure who really wants to do that but to each their own I guess, that I kind of adopted the idea from. The reason I didn't just go with buying that outrigger system is price. I just can't justify buying something for $300 when I can probably make one that is just as good or better for WAY less than that. Basically this consists of two pieces of pipe, connected by clamps or brackets, that span the width of the canoe and clamp down to the gunwales. These pipes will have a larger diameter to allow the outrigger extender tubes to slide in and out. A pin of some sort will adjust the distance of the floats from the boat. The idea is to have the outrigger be able to slide all the way in for smooth tracking and all the way out for great stability.

Bottom right two sketches - show plans to assemble floats and relative size (which might change). I can get some insulation foam board in 4x8 sheets at 2" think so I'm hoping to cut those into 6" squares and cut holes about 1" in diameter to fit the pipe through the center and then cut the foam (after I glue it all together) to be a little more hydrodynamic. I don't know if I'll be able to leave it or coat it with some sort of waterproof stucco or what...opinions on that would be great.


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## JasonLester (Feb 22, 2012)

You might think about either making them pointed or figure out a way to lift them some when paddling. Flat like it looks in the sketchup model would be alot of drag. Maybe you have thought about that though.


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## cmatthews_jm (Feb 22, 2012)

Yeah, SketchUp can only be so realistic and I didn't take the time to point the floats but I did intend to have them pointed. Good point though!

EDIT : Something a little more like what this screenshot looks like I think.


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## Bigkat650 (Feb 22, 2012)

two things...

First, I believe typical foam board (green and pink stuff) is not a closed-cell foam, meaning it can become waterlogged--so you would need to coat it, and with what? I don't know...

Second, I would avoid using PVC. It is not really rigged enough to provide a solid structure and under load may fail. Also, PVC tends to degrade over time. Conduit worked well for me though, its stiffer and takes a while to degrade... also, price point is very similar and weight is only slightly more then PVC. Aluminum is ideal, but more expensive and harder to find.


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## cmatthews_jm (Feb 22, 2012)

The foam I can get is insulation blue foam, to make a long story short, Dad is a commercial brick mason and its the foam that they put between the brick and wall, so I can get that stuff if I need it. I'm not sure if its closed cell but if its used for that I think it might work, I'll do some research for it. 

I wasn't sure about the PVC option either but for ease of use it seemed practical. I have worked with PVC before and am familiar with it, at least some anyway, and conduit is new territory for me. That doesn't mean I won't use it but it does intimidate me a little.

good points.

EDIT : what if I went with a Schedule 80 PVC rather than the standard 40? would that help a little bit as far as rigidity goes? Also, I'm not trying to send these outriggers 100' out or anything. I was thinking about 3' tops from the gunwale of the canoe.


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## fool4fish1226 (Feb 23, 2012)

Here some pictures of what I did to 10' jon. I have one Stabilizer on each corner of the boat. They work very well, I have fished 4 people out of that boat with no fear of tipping. The PVC works well to it has a little flex that I think might help a little. Check out the pictures if you have any questions let me know.


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## cmatthews_jm (Feb 23, 2012)

fool4fish1226 said:


> Here some pictures of what I did to 10' jon. I have one Stabilizer on each corner of the boat. They work very well, I have fished 4 people out of that boat with no fear of tipping. The PVC works well to it has a little flex that I think might help a little. Check out the pictures if you have any questions let me know.



What size PVC did you use?


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## fool4fish1226 (Feb 23, 2012)

PVC was 3/4" schedule 40


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## cmatthews_jm (Mar 2, 2012)

Alright so this weekend, granted that I have enough time, will be the weekend the stabilizers are constructed and maybe tested. I have changed my ideas a little because of material issues but part of doing this is thinking and learning on your feet. I'm pumped for it. I'll post some pictures when I get to it.


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## fool4fish1226 (Mar 5, 2012)

How did they turn out?????


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## cmatthews_jm (Mar 5, 2012)

well unfortunately this weekend's plans got changed up a little bit. I had to help move some family into their new house and do some painting but I did get a chance to buy the materials. So today and maybe tomorrow will be the days to build it. It shouldn't be a long build I think the floats will take the longest to construct. I'll get some pics up soon! Then hopefully get to test them out later this week.


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## earl60446 (Mar 5, 2012)

I had a buddy use pvc, probably 8 or 10 inch diameter (depends on how fat you are) for his floats, about 4 ft long and capped at each end. The lightweight stuff too, used for drains. He hose clamped them to some aluminum bracing and that worked ok for him. They were suspended just above the waterline when the canoe was level.
Tim


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## cmatthews_jm (Mar 6, 2012)

I finally got it 90% done today. Next thing to figure out is how to keep the floats together (glue?) I was hoping to get some chopsticks or something similar to dowels that could hold the floats in place and keep them from rotating around the spine. Suggestions? 

Here are those pictures.


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## fool4fish1226 (Mar 6, 2012)

They look good and should work. Did you put caps or something on the ends to stop the foam from coming off? Not sure on how to stop them from rotating, glue may work but I could see the foam breaking free under pressure. Let us know how the test goes!!!!!


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## cmatthews_jm (Mar 7, 2012)

Today was the maiden voyage and I think in terms of a test run it was a success. They definitely improved floatation and stability. I stood up and rocked the canoe pretty aggressively and didnt fall in or break the arms. Their was some flex with the pvc but as long as I don't plan on doing backflips out of this thing I should be fine.  As of right now decoy line left over from duck season is keeping the foam from sliding off the pvc for now but most of the squares were cut tight enough to the pvc to keep it from moving much at all. My main problem was that I didn't have alot of it glued on and ended up chasing float arms across the pond a few times. I still plan to cut the floats down some to make them a little more hydrodynamic and gluing everything together as far as the pvc goes. 

And I did manage to catch a 14"er today 8) 

Things to do still:

-glue pvc
-cut foam
-keep the foam squares from separating individually
-(maybe) paint foam and pvc to make it a little more attractive or cohesive with the canoe itself

Opinions, concerns, questions all welcome.


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