# Outriggers/Stabilizers for my 1032 Jon Boat



## bad1 (Jul 15, 2010)

Has anyone built/bought/used outriggers for their Jon Boat? I have a 1032 Alumacraft Jon Boat and am thinking of building a set. I just got a 3.3 HP Merc 2 stroke engine for it, and hope to try it out this weekend. After about 4 times out with my trolling motor, I do feel a bit better about the "Tipsy" affect. I am hoping Outriggers will work a bit better, because the cove I want to fish is across a bit of the lake, thus getting the 3.3 HP Merc.

Second part of the question, where would the best place be to put them? The rear of the boat?


Thoughts anyone?
If I do build a set, I will take pictures if anyone is interested.


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## JRHOADES20 (Jul 15, 2010)

you'd want them on your sides, and you'd want them even from front to back. The wider and longer you make them the moe stable you will be.


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## SVOMike86 (Jul 16, 2010)

You should do a search, I know I've seen people do it for jons, in fact, if you check out my 
Thread "Project Overkill" I made a set, but am going to end up not using them. Anyways, 
I know there's a canoe fishing sight that has deployable outriggers that are super sweet. If you don't mind them not looking professional, you can easily build some just like the ones on the
Site out of PVC... Good luck dude!


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## bad1 (Jul 16, 2010)

Thanks for your input, I have built a pair of Outriggers. I will install them this weekend and go give it a try 



:roll:


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## tccanoe (Jul 19, 2010)

Good looking out-riggers. How and where do they attach?


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## BaitCaster (Jul 19, 2010)

Cool. What did you use to build them? How do they attach?


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## bad1 (Jul 19, 2010)

I got the floats from Amazon, 2 for 14.99. They are lobster floats. (Total - $30.00) (Living in the Dallas Area, I am landlocked, so it was a chore to find these.)
I bought anodized flag pole brackets from Lowes, 10.00 each. (Total - $20.00) <--this was the biggest challenge, but alas I found something good. These brackets have 13 adjustments, so I will adjust them 1 or 2 inches above the water for starters.

Tubing is 3/4 inch , PVC Schd 40 - 10 foot stalk.
Between each float is a 3/4 inch tee, and I used 3/4 end caps.

Each float has a 12.5 inch pole thru x 4 = 50 inches. (The float has a vry tight 3/4 inch hole in the middle, but very tight)
I split the remainder pipe in half.

I will attatch these at the the back of the boat, on the side as high and as far back as possible, using aluminm rivets, and sealing each hole with RTV. If I feel there is lot of flex in the PVC, I will put a broomstick in it 

Unfortunatly I didn't get to install them this weekend, work got into the way .

I hope to get time this week to install them and begin using them. I have a 3.5hp mercury outboard and a 40 lb thrust trolling motor, which I just got. I am anxious to get some time to try them out.

Ron


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## MadCatX (Jul 19, 2010)

Sweet - we got a 1232 and same situation we need to burn across some lake water to get to some nice slews and such - let us know how they do. =D>


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## bad1 (Jul 19, 2010)

I sure will, I am hoping to get rid of that "tipsy" feel.
I will also post pictures 
This is my second boat, I have a 22 ft 2009 Avalon Pontoon I bought last year, but this boat is so much easier to get out for a 2-3 hr fishing trip.


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## Waterwings (Jul 19, 2010)

Nice job on the float stabilizers. Looking at the pics, the mounting plate at the end of the float poles looks to have 4 holes in it, and a pivot point above the mounting plate. How tight will that pivot point tighten-down? I'm thinking if you get a chop on the water, from an in-coming bow wake off another boat, it may not take the roll of the waves well and loosen the adjustment screw/bolt, thus defeating the purpose of the stabilizers. Will pop-rivets be enough to hold the mounting plate to the boat? If you're gonna drill holes, you might want to make a backing plate (1/8" minimum thickness, aluminum) to put on the inside of the boat, and use stainless bolts and washers. Just a thought.


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## bad1 (Jul 20, 2010)

Good analysis. 

First, the pivot point is serated on the top, so each time you make an adjustment, and tighten, the teeth renegage from the top. I found many that used say more of a pressure and a small notch inside the pivot point, but was concerned for the same reasons you have deduced. Also there is about 180 degree's of adjustment, so I will be able to pull these completely out of the water and be up in the air if needed.
One more thing, I may remove the decorative nut, and put a wingnut with a flat and locking washer, then burr the end of the bolt, so that if I am making an adjustment on the lake, I dont accidently drop the nut.

As for the backing, I will use either a galvanized plate used for outdoor electric connections, somewhat rust free, and very very strong, or possibly a piece of aluminum, if I can find it. I also am considering Stainless screws and washers, mainly because the 4 holes on the bracket are recessed. I attached some mooring rings to the side of my boat, and used rivets, but they were flat. Jury is still out on this one!!!

You also made me remember that I forgot to get the backing plates yesterday when I was at Lowes.
Thanks again for your analysis!!


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## Waterwings (Jul 20, 2010)

No problem. I try to think of the "what-if" scenarios that might arise. 

I highly recommend using aluminum for the backing plates, and stay away from the galvanized. I'd even go so far as putting a backing sheet of 1/8" rubber between the mounting plates and the hull, but that's just me.


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## SmallieBigs (Jul 20, 2010)

I made outriggers for the canoe I just sold out of a pool noodle and a couple pieces of 1/2" EMT conduit once. It looked pretty strange but it worked great. I was an electrician in my former career and have pipe benders though. They were adjustable by bending the pipe :lol:


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## bad1 (Aug 3, 2010)

Hey All,
I finally got these mounted and wow what a difference. The brackets are mounted just behind the center bench, as high up as possible. I couldn't find aluminum wide enought so I chose a galvanized flat plate used for electrical boxes, 1.36 each. They are larger than the bracket and stabilize the connection lot better. I also used rubber between the flagpole bracket and boat, as well as the plate and the boat.

I did find better brackets online for $5.00 each, with the promo code there was no shipping charges. Took 3 days to get them once I ordered them. 

On another note, I will take pictures later today if I can get time.

I have a 3.3 HP merc on the back, as well as a 30 lb thrust trolling motor. and these just skim the top of the water as I motor around.

The only problem I have, is that the bolts that hold the stabilizer arms in, tend to get loose. I am going to drill thru the flagpole brackets and put a "clevis pin and end pin" on to keep them on.

I have also been able to move around without that tipsy feeling.


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## Jim (Aug 3, 2010)

Cant wait to see the pics! A quick video on the water would be even better!


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## bad1 (Aug 3, 2010)

A couple of pictures, not the greatest, but I think you will see.
Unfortunatly the boat on the water is not possible since I go out alone, and I am inside the boat.


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## SmallieBigs (Aug 3, 2010)

Looks great man, nice professional installation.


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## bad1 (Aug 6, 2010)

Thanks, sure makes a BIG difference on the lake.


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## floundergigger (Dec 2, 2010)

Are you still looking for outriggers? I built some for my jon boat. They made it as stable as a bass boat. I used 4" pvc for the flotation, pressurized up to 80lbs. I c-clamp the frame onto the boat before I launch.


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## tincansailor (Dec 3, 2010)

I made some for my 1432 Alumacraft out of 4" pvc pipe. I cut one length in half, put a 45 elbow on one end of each peice and capped both ends of each. I used a piece of 3/4" conduit that I placed across the boat just behind teh middle seat. I put a cleat on the rib that was behind that seat which I used to tie the piece of conduit. The conduit extends 2' from each side of boat. The pvc pipe rides just on top of the water. These have made all the difference in the world. I made these for about $20. I took some pictures of them but do not know how to post them on here. Good luck.


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## samzerelli (Jan 22, 2011)

tincansailor said:


> I made some for my 1432 Alumacraft out of 4" pvc pipe. I cut one length in half, put a 45 elbow on one end of each peice and capped both ends of each. I used a piece of 3/4" conduit that I placed across the boat just behind teh middle seat. I put a cleat on the rib that was behind that seat which I used to tie the piece of conduit. The conduit extends 2' from each side of boat. The pvc pipe rides just on top of the water. These have made all the difference in the world. I made these for about $20. I took some pictures of them but do not know how to post them on here. Good luck.




Hey tincansailor, I'm interested in seeing your photos. Maybe you can email them to me and I'll post them on this thread for you. Feel free to shoot me a PM.


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## samzerelli (Feb 5, 2011)

I used bad1's design to build myself some outriggers just like his. I decided to put a wood dowel rod down each long tube to make it a little less flexible. I'll probably end up shortening these a bit, I'll experiment with that to see how short I can go to get the stability I'm looking for.

I'll be bolting these onto the side of an old 12' semi-v in hopes of making it rock a little less when I'm out with the kids and they are bouncing around


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## snakes14009 (Feb 9, 2011)

I have built a set for my canoe rebuild project as well as a cheap push pole. For floats the easest cheapiest thing is walmarts four inch diameter pool noodles (4 dollars a piece). Since they have a hole already thru the center which you can stuff a 1 inch piece of PVC thru for support. It has a very snug fit. The other nice thing with them is you can cut and shape quickly. And of course if they go bad there not hard to replace. At the end of the link is a picture of the canoe and the floats. I can tell you without them my 16 foot 30 inch wide canoe is kind of scary with two adults and a 4 year old but with the floats both my son and i can stand up with out going over.

https://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1267501666/22#22


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## Industry (Apr 3, 2011)

Great idea. Where do I get those rugged looking pivot points?


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## Yerba1 (Apr 3, 2011)

When I know I'll need them, I have two 8' inflatable pontoons that attach to d rings fore and aft on my boat (and canoe). I use an air mattress pump to blow them up once I get out on the lake. It's a kids thing. Almost impossible to swamp. However, once they're in place, movement is limited to the 1 setting on my small electric minn kota. The pontoons roll up and fit in a medium size duffel for storage and portage.


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## jcchappy (Jun 18, 2012)

I built some pvc pipe floats for my 1432 jon boat friday night. I took it out saturday morning, they worked faily good. I think I need to use 6" or 8" pvc. I used 4" and they work but boat is still a little tippy while trying to walk from back to front to throw traps. Just being able to stand up is a big improvement. The way I mouted them you screw them to the top of the boat so there are no screw holes anywhere near the water line and if you don't like it there are onlt five small screw holes in the top rail on each side that can be filled with silicone or something. The way I built it you can stow the floats for moving or while loading and on the trailer. Once in the water you can pull the pins and the floats pop out to the sides at a limited rage so that they have pressure on them to keep side to side roll at a minimum. as I said they work really good. In the out positon it doesn't show it but there is a rope to limit how far out the float will travel.


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