# After the fire...



## gajet31 (Mar 8, 2011)

I have taken all the old wiring out of the boat and I am ready to start over. I have drawn up a sketch of how I think it should work. NOTE: I am TERRIBLE with electrical and this diagram may need to be improved upon. Let me know if you like it or hate it please!!! The wires are not all in their exact location, I made it so my diagram was clear. My plan is to wire all the wires through a fuse at the switch box. Oh and the trolling motor is on a completely separate battery, so for ease I left it out of the diagram.
Thanks,
David


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## gajet31 (Mar 9, 2011)

No takers??? I know there must be some pro-electricians out there that can help me out. Heck, even a novice might have more knowledge than me.


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## back4more (Mar 9, 2011)

Id say your diagram is close. I would only have one positive wire from the battery to the fuse panel, then from there all the positives to the devices/lights. I would also have one ground wire from the battery to the switch box, then the grounds to each device/light. you can put a bolt through the wall of the switch box and attach your battery ground and each device/light ground to the bolt for one central ground spot in the switch box.


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## back4more (Mar 9, 2011)




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## gajet31 (Mar 10, 2011)

back4more, 

Thanks for the input. I like that idea. It would be a much cleaner finish if I only had one wire going to the battery from the switch/fuse box. I am wondering if the switch/fuse box I want to use from Cabelas is compatible with that set up. Before I buy it I am going to check on that. THanks again


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## back4more (Mar 10, 2011)

do you have a link to the cabelas switch box?


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## bassboy1 (Mar 10, 2011)

I'd be more inclined to get something like this,
https://www.iboats.com/Seachoice-AT...248271904--session_id.201170997--view_id.2901, and run separate switches, than to get the Cabela's thing.

That gives you power distribution and fusing for the + leads, as well as a buss for the - leads. It also allows the terminal block and the switches to be in different locations, which might make for a more efficient use of wire, depending on the layout. Furthermore, if you have unswitched items (sonars, etc.) you can still grab fused power from them, without having to pigtail leads, and run individual inline fuses, or have a dud switch on the switch panel.


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## gajet31 (Mar 11, 2011)

This was the fuse/switch panel I was going to buy from Cabela's.

https://www.cabelas.com/product/Marine-G ... l+Products

Since I now have some more attention on the thread, what would be best for my situation? Something like I have above, or like bassboy1 posted? I am looking for new switches, fuses, and anything else that will help prevent another fire. My goal is to have the new wires organized. I don't like the idea of inline fuses, cause it can get crowded. I would rather link all my wires to one central location, which encompasses fuses and switches. My ideal situation would be one negative and one positive wire running from the battery to the switch/fuse box. From there I would have individual wires for each application running to their respective locations on the boat. Behind the panel of switches would be fuses that link directly to the panel. I feel like I can wire everything appropriately, I just need to know the best switch/fuse box package.


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## gajet31 (Mar 11, 2011)

basserboy1,

What exactly is a bus and how will it benefit me? I looked at the link you provided, and from my perspective, it looks like I would mount that close to my battery, and then run all my wires through it (going through the fuse), and then to a switch which I could mount wherever, and from there to the actual application. Do you have any good diagrams?


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## Oldgeek (Mar 16, 2011)

I bought a SeaSense switch for about $35 off EBay with 3 switches and a cig lighter plug. I think Iboats carries them as well. Thanks for the diagram, as I'm electrically challenged myself. I'm going to make a bussbar out of some copper pipe I have and an old cutting board to insulate it. I can make on for the positive and a bar for the negative connections. Here's my plan.
1. smash the pipe flat and cut in two pieces for + and - bussbar.
2. drill 6 small holes in each pipe and insert short brass screws from the back
3. drill holes in the ends and fasten it to the piece of cutting boards (plastic)

Now I can run my main power to the bussbar from the battery and then attach all the other wires to the other bussbar connections. I'll just have the nuts on the tops part to hold the wire connector in place. 

How does this sound?


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## Hanr3 (Mar 16, 2011)

https://www.iboats.com/Seadog-Vertical-6-Gang-Panel/dm/cart_id.248271904--session_id.825092189--view_id.49304

I prefer a fuse/switch panel like linked to above. This has a fuse for each circuit. IF you blow one fuse, your not completely dead in the water. IF one circuit has a dead short, you can swap wiring and still have safety devices, bilge pump, nav lights. 

You can use a bolt and nut for a terminal block. Use ring terminals to attach the ground wires to the bolt/nut. No sense spending big bucks on a terminal block. 





Picture of my terminal blocks and wiring behind my switch panel. 







Switch panel. ITs a 4 ganger, I added a 5th switch, blue in color for my all around light. I know instantly if the switch is on, and if the light isnt on, I have a problem.


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## Diesel Dan (Mar 17, 2011)

old geek, you need to be careful if your going to make a positive buss. Anything that touches it and the boat at the same time is going to short out. I am a big fan of the fuse panels that Bass Boy was talking about. Your power distribution and fuse location is taken care of in one insulated unit. Lots safer and cleaner. You can buy them at NAPA also and they are not really expensive. The larger ones have a ground buss on them to make it easier to hook up all your grounds.


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## Oldgeek (Mar 19, 2011)

Thanks for the input guys. I'll use the buse for the ground and check out Napa for the fuse block.


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## lbursell (Mar 20, 2011)

Congrats of having the presence of mind to save your boat from the fire. Definitely hoping to see pics. Damage/Before and Repair/After. Good opportunity here for a "how to" on replace existing wiring.


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## Popeye (Mar 27, 2011)

Actually if something touches the hull and a positive lead it shouldn't short anything. There is a difference between ground and negative. Your negative terminal should not be wired to the hull. Connecting your negative wire to the hull is an invitation for electrolysis and corrosion issues.


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## Howard (Mar 27, 2011)

> There is a difference between ground and negative. Your negative terminal should not be wired to the hull. Connecting your negative wire to the hull is an invitation for electrolysis and corrosion issues.



Glad you mentioned this. I have read many times a negative circuit called a ground. I thought I was missing something.


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## linehand (Apr 7, 2011)

???...you talking DC? Think you are going to confuse people. DC is a 2 wire system. There is a difference in a ground and neutral in AC. I think this is what you meant.


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## Popeye (Apr 7, 2011)

You are correct, most DC circuits are 2 wire and the neutral is used in an AC circuit, which is tied together in the service panel on a common bus (also why neutral is also called the "Common" wire), the neutrals are bonded to the ground in the main power panel. However in our small boats we most commonly use a 2 wire DC ungrounded circuit.


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