# extending the leads to the ebox for a jet jon conversion?



## amk (Mar 16, 2015)

I would like to extend the battery leads to the ebox on my jet jon so I can relocate the battery currently they are about 1.5 ft and that is just way to short. If I use the same guage wire and extend it about three feet will I be ok? I was also going to install a battery shut off switch. My engine wont shut off with the stop or kill switch and I'm tired of trouble shooting. Other than safety is there any negative affects to this on the engine itself? 

A little more info on the shutoff situation I originally thought it was dieseling took it in it did have a blown seal got that replaced still it wont shutoff I check the kill switch by plugging it into another ski it worked so now I've narrowed it down to the ebox or a connection to the motor. checked the fuse its not that and it wouldn't start if it was so I've about exhausted my capabilities I may check my connections elsewhere.


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## S&amp;MFISH (Mar 16, 2015)

Not being familiar with your particular engine configuration this may be irrelavent, but here's what I know. If your engine has an alternator/ magneto that charges the battery, a shut-off will not work because the engine will keep running until power to the ignition is terminated(i.e. "kill switch"). A check to see if an alternator is bad is to disconnect the battery and see if the engine keeps running. If it does the alt. is good ,if it dies the alt. is bad. In my opinion, you have the interrupt the power to the ign. system.


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## CedarRiverScooter (Mar 17, 2015)

AMK - Yes you can extend cables, I did same thing for mine, I soldered the ends together then triple insulated & sealed water tight. I just used some lawn & garden type cables from farm & fleet. I could have replaced the original cable altogether but it was sealed very well into the junction box.

However, safety wise, it is best to have that lanyard work (& wear it when driving).

You could ask about this problem on 'Green Hulk' forum - they have been supportive to me (I am having carb issues). Another plan would be to buy the service manual, it's about $5 onlinme. Mine came in very handy.

Good luck & keep the pictures coming.


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## amk (Mar 17, 2015)

that's what I thought. Did you ever take the junction box apart? I believe my cdi is bad so I will be attempting it this weekend I have found images of it apart and it doesn't look to bad and the battery leads look like that bolt on inside. Also I don't think jetskis have alternators they use a stator which creates a current and field but I don't think it charges a battery and runs the engine like a alternator.


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## CedarRiverScooter (Mar 17, 2015)

I had to completely rebuild the J box as it had filled & sat with water, terminals were all very rusty. Good thing it was a winter project!

Stator output does charge battery, there is a rectifier in J box.

As far as it not shutting off, my guess would be a bad ground.

Good luck.


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## PSG-1 (Mar 17, 2015)

Extending the leads is not a problem at all.

As for your kill switch, there are likely 4 wires going to it. 2 poles on the switch are "NO" (normally open) contacts and 2 are "NC" (normally closed) Be sure these are hooked up correctly, or it won't work. "NC" connection allows power to flow through to the trigger/coil/stator when it is closed. If it is opened, this cuts the power to the coil trigger, and the spark plugs. 

Also, if you've extended your wire harness, check your killswitch lead extension wires for continuity, one of them may have a break/corrosion/bad connection. This was the case with my killswitch malfunction in my jet boat several years ago. Boat would run and run, with the killswitch pulled, and then it would inexplicably shut off after a while. It was a standard butt connector with liquid electrical tape (don't use that #$^%, it insulates to the point that wires don't get a good connection) Use heat-shrink butt connectors and 3M splicing tape for all your connections.


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## amk (Mar 17, 2015)

posted this on a pwc site but between psg and cedar and the tinboats braintrust maybe it can be answered here. I haven't touched any electrical. so its as is from purchase

Background: bought two 96 wave raiders 760. Both under 120 hours, both had not ran in a couple years. First one pulled old battery put in new wasn't paying attention poles were opposite between the old and new battery accidently tried to hook up back ward battery sparked oops (don't know if that could of blew cdi, fuse is still intact)! Got battery in right a little starter fluid and it cranked up on the water. Started to go it was real hard to get it to go past idle or else it would die out. Decided it definetly needed carb rebuilt went to shut it off kill switch and stop would not work... flooded it to kill it. Cleaned carbs replaced gaskets fired it up on dry land and it ran away (dieseling) pulled gas line to stop it. Turns out had a bad front seal had it replaced meanwhile checked kill switch using the other ski and it worked so its not the kill switch. Started it up after seal replacement (digital screen disconnected I still had motor pulled) kill switch still didn't work I was told I had to have that screen plugged in after I flooded it (by flooded it I mean pull choke and hit throttle). Went to try to start it up with screen plugged in and I haven't been able to get it started and now it's started slipping or misfiring and won't start I have a video I showed a couple people I know, they said it's not a starter. I pulled the #1 plug and it cranks fine no misfire. I'm now led to believe it's one of three things 1. Cdi 2. Coils. 3. Timing is twisted. 

Thinking about swapping out the Ebox off my other running ski to see if that's the problem. If it is I get a new one if not cdi or coils its timing. I don't know how hard it is for a regular joe to swap. Also if after reading my story anyone can give more insight that would be awesome. The guy that fixed the seal could of jacked up my timing? or would it of not started at all with timing twisted?


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## CedarRiverScooter (Mar 17, 2015)

Thanks for the compliment but I can't help with the ignition system.

Maybe there is a PWC guy in you area that could figure it out.


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## amk (Mar 17, 2015)

closest one is 1.5 hr drive one way and requires driving strait through Houston.


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## amk (Mar 17, 2015)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3s5By_F_o6M

this is a video of what its doing.


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## PSG-1 (Mar 19, 2015)

Definitely sounds like an issue with mis-firing. Check for fire at both plugs, that's the first thing. If you're not getting fire, then make sure the leads are connected fully to the spark plug boot. I know that sounds simple, but it's a commonly overlooked problem, I'm even guilty of it myself.

If you are getting fire at both plugs, then it's time to break out your multimeter and repair manual. Start testing the various components of the ignition system, and compare your readings to the manual's specs. If any of them don't measure up, this is likely the culprit. 

Back-trace it starting at the coil pack, then to the CDI, then on to the magneto/stator assembly.


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## amk (Mar 21, 2015)

Replaced spark plug even swapped ignition coils same thing happening on to cdi then connections.


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## CedarRiverScooter (Mar 21, 2015)

Any chance the spark plug wires/cdis got switched out of firing order?


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## amk (Mar 21, 2015)

Nah


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## amk (Mar 21, 2015)

I'm probably gonna disconnect magneto and thermL and just swap Ebox


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## amk (Mar 21, 2015)

Compression check sat 140-145 both cylinders prolly coulda went higher but I figured that was good enough to prove that wasn't my problem so I'm pretty confident it's cdi. I've changed spark plugs and coils to eliminate those possibilities im down to cdi or corroded connection but this ski only had 110 hours and only ran fresh water the box looks mint inside


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## PSG-1 (Mar 22, 2015)

150 is about right for compression readings on a 2 stroke jet ski engine. If you've eliminated everything up to the CDI, your next suspect is the magneto/stator.


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## amk (Mar 23, 2015)

Swapped eboxes no luck I've exhausted my expertise I will be taking it to the shop in the meantime I pulled the other 760 motor I had that's working and put it in the boat. Can't wait to run it this weekend I'll post some speeds once I get it going. Will probably run some lines on the river we did pretty good this past weekend nothing monstrous but got some good fillets.


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## PSG-1 (Mar 23, 2015)

Sorry that you haven't found the problem with it. Unfortunately, without actually being able to look at the entire thing in person, I'm out of answers.

Tracing down electrical problems can sometimes be a nightmare. Even with a repair manual and a wiring diagram, it can be overwhelming. When that happens, best to let someone more qualified handle the problem.


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## amk (Mar 23, 2015)

can I pull magneto and stator with out tearing the block apart it looks like I can? is there a way to test it without buying a replacement?


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## PSG-1 (Mar 23, 2015)

The magneto case should be comprised of 2 halves, held together with bolts around its perimeter, with a gasket in between. One half of the case is part of the engine, but the front half is the cover. If you unbolt this, it allows access to your flywheel and stator assembly. The magneto/stator will be inside this front cover. Consult your engine repair manual for the specs on what the multi-meter should read when testing the stator. Hope this helps.


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## amk (Mar 23, 2015)

That helps a lot thanks


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