# 10 foot aluminum jon boat leaky rivets



## bluedragon2k9 (Jun 25, 2014)

Heres what has happened.I wanted a boat real bad.So i seen one for sale.It was a jon boat a 10 foot.I knew nothing to look for when buying a boat.
Since getting it home I have learned some.But what I am looking at now is.
They are 5 rivets slowly dripping after doing the leak test.Like one drop of water every 3 to 5 minutes.
Then the drain plug part is bent so the plug that goes in the tube part is not making a good cover so it is leaking water.
The boat itself is a appleby i think its called.Maybe from the 70';s I believe.
I'm stuck with it for now So i got to fix these leaks.
I have been told of a product called gluvit, and also 3m 5200.
I really do not know what to use to fix these problems.
I also have a welder coming to look at it tomorrow.He is the only one that welds aluminum in my area believe it or not.
I am open to any suggestions.
This is my first ever boat and I really would like to use it.
Thanks guys
ive completely sanded it down with a palm sander.


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## kjestes (Jun 26, 2014)

i have had luck when sealing leaky rivets by using a rubber spray called leak seal by Rustoleum.


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## tonynoriega (Jun 26, 2014)

I had a 1952 Alumacraft 16' that had the same issue.

I ended up replacing about 15-20 rivets.

Some were original hand pounded rivets, and some were replacement closed blind rivets?

Basically I took a drill bit just about the same diameter as the shaft of the rivet, not the head.

I drilled straight through the head, down the shaft. Being careful to try to keep the bit straight so I did not expand the hole more than needed.

Usually...not all the time, the rivet shaft would fall off, and the head would pop off as well. Sometimes the head would hold and and you just have to pop it off with a flathead.

Then like most guys here will tell ya, get some closed end blind rivets ( I got a pack from some online store, I forgot) with the correct diameter and shaft length.

Squeeze some 3M 5200 on the shaft, pop them in.

Not pretty, but it worked.







I even added some on the inside to hold a little more.


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## onthewater102 (Jun 26, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=357163#p357163 said:


> tonynoriega » 26 Jun 2014, 10:14[/url]"]
> ...Then like most guys here will tell ya, get some closed end blind rivets ( I got a pack from some online store, I forgot) with the correct diameter and shaft length.
> 
> Squeeze some 3M 5200 on the shaft, pop them in.
> ...




Everything you need to know is right there.

Closed end blind rivets can be found here:

https://www.rivetsonline.com/rivets-en/blind-rivets-en/closed-end-blind-rivets.html

You want the rivet to be Aluminum but the mandrel (the pin through the center of it) to be Steel so you get a good tight crimp.

3m 5200 is in the caulk section at Lowes, I would imagine you'd find it at home depot too...


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## bluedragon2k9 (Jun 26, 2014)

ok but how do I know what size rivets to get ? I know nothing about rivets and such


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## bluedragon2k9 (Jun 26, 2014)

and is this a permanent fix?


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## bluedragon2k9 (Jun 26, 2014)

also how can i fix the 2 holes in the hull?


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## dalecyr (Jun 27, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=357236#p357236 said:


> bluedragon2k9 » 26 Jun 2014, 14:19[/url]"]also how can i fix the 2 holes in the hull?



You must have bought your boat from the same guy I did.
He claimed it didn't leak.
My first boat... whay do I know?
(a lot more now!)

9 leaks. about a gallon an hour or so.
Went to the local boat shop, bought the (expensive) Gluvit.
A gallon of it. $130.00!

I've used most of it.
Used pure silicon to fill the larger holes.
Coated the entire bottom.
Twice.

Did another leak test, found more leaks up the sides.
(I will never own a riveted boat again. Ever.)

Coated those.
On my way out the door right now for a third leak test.
(The Gluvit worked amazingly well; sealed 6 leaks on the bottom.)

Gluvit claims it is a 'neutral' color.
I suppose it is neutral if you like blond.
It is very thick stuff.
But, when cured, it is solid. Very hard (durable), yet flexible.
Pretty impressed.

I will recommend it to others who are silly enough, like me, to buy an old riveted boat.


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## onthewater102 (Jun 27, 2014)

Oh come now - you learned that before you buy an old riveted boat you check it first by filling it with water...

The Gulvit is a band-aide fix, it will last 5 or so years but then cracks & is just another layer of mess to work through to try & fix. 

The 5200 + replacing the rivets is a permanent fix.

As far as sizing the rivet - drill off the head of the existing rivet without drilling into the hull of the boat - the head will come off pretty easily. Pop the rivet body out of the boat (using a small nail if it's being stubborn) this will leave a neat & clean hole drilled through the side. Take your set of drill bits and figure out what size hole you've got...buy the rivets accordingly (you may want to see if you can go up one size & drill the hole out a smidge so you know you're working with clean edges around the hole...

As far as patching a hole in the side of the boat - could you a few pics?


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## bluedragon2k9 (Jun 28, 2014)

the holes are on the back side of the boat it is covered in what looks like silicone? the back corners of the boat is coated with a silcone type substance to.
here is some pics


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## bluedragon2k9 (Jun 28, 2014)

im really kicking my ass here i should of looked at the boat better


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## bluedragon2k9 (Jun 28, 2014)

so what do u all think i should do?


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## Pappy (Jun 28, 2014)

Unless the rivet is actually loose to the touch there is a simpler solution. 
I learned this in the www.aomci.org site. 
Get some super glue and wick it into the rivet that is leaking. Simple as that.
Just make sure the rivet is completely dry. May have to warm it with a torch to make sure or just let it sit for a couple days. 
I have tried both standard super glue and I also have some "medium" super glue for R/C modelling that I use. 
I have more faith in the medium but both will work.


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## Southern Appal (Jun 28, 2014)

I had similar gobs of sealant on nuts and bolts on my boat. I was able to remove the stuff by using a utility knife to cut through so that I could pull up on an edge of it. Took some work for all six nuts. Cleaned it up with acetone. getting the holes patched with piece of sheet welded over the area. Then I can drill new holes and install SS bolts with 3M 5200 and Nylanuts. Then Gluvit and paint.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Jun 28, 2014)

You can re-buck the leaky rivets. Have a friend hold a large hammer against one side of the rivet and you hit the other side of the rivet with another big hammer.


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## bulldog (Jun 29, 2014)

Here's my fix to leaky rivets. 

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=17096&p=235082&hilit=Durafix#p235082


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## onthewater102 (Jun 29, 2014)

In less than 2 hours we've had superglue and "whack it with a hammer"...surprised no one suggested duct-tape...complete the holy trinity of hillbilly repair advice.


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## rocket rich (Jun 29, 2014)

Don't get your self upset. get some Marine Epoxy at Home depot orLowes. It works fine just do the bottom use a acid brush works great


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## onthewater102 (Jun 29, 2014)

oh i'm not upset - just having a good laugh that's all...the rebucking is a perfectly sound option - just a PITA.


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## bluedragon2k9 (Jun 30, 2014)

guys can I just drill out the rivets and replace with ss bolts and some 5200 marine sealant with nylock nuts?The problem with replacing my with more rivets is I would have to order them online.So i would have to guess on what size rivet i would need.Etc get what i am saying .If i can use bolts it would be much easier for me and everything.Can someone please explain the bolt method?
Also for the holes in the hull could I use a peice of aluminum sheet metal and some some marine sealnt to seal it up maybe a few bolts?


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## onthewater102 (Jun 30, 2014)

No guessing - you can lookup the aluminum thickness with your boat manufacturer or measure it yourself, then you can measure the hole-size with your drill-bit.


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## onthewater102 (Jun 30, 2014)

the marine sealant is recommended to be applied to primed metal - keep that in mind


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## bluedragon2k9 (Jun 30, 2014)

so would the ss bolts and nuts work?


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## bluedragon2k9 (Jun 30, 2014)

I would actually pay someone to come fix these leaks lol
doubt any of you are close to me though be nice if any of u were.


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## onthewater102 (Jun 30, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=357725#p357725 said:


> bluedragon2k9 » 30 Jun 2014, 11:25[/url]"]so would the ss bolts and nuts work?



doubtful


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## bluedragon2k9 (Jun 30, 2014)

well looks liek im goign to find out bought the marine sealnt today buying the bolts tommorow.I have read several posts on here where people have used bolts and nuts it worked just fine.JUst wish someone that has done it comment on which bolts and nuts they used.


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## bluedragon2k9 (Jun 30, 2014)

well the rebuck failed.So i been chiseling rivets off and plan to use ss bolts.Its the cheapest route and im tired of worrying about it


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## onthewater102 (Jul 1, 2014)

I didn't think the rebuck stood much chance of working for you, hence my snarkey hillbillie repair advice comment, but you really should look into rivets. You can get so many for so little $$ that if others show leaks in the future you can fix them too without additional $$$ out of pocket. Stainless hardware is going to cost 3x - 5x as much, or more, for as many rivets as you'd get in a box (usually 50). If a bolt comes loose you've got a major leak on your hands - a rivet will only be a slow leak as it starts to fail way down the line...

Don't chisel the old ones out - you'll risk damaging your hull. Get a drill - drill off the head of the rivet and punch out the body with a nail. You'll be left with a hole - keep slipping drill bits in it moving up in size till you find the one that fits it snug before the next size up doesn't fit at all - that's the size rivet you want to order. Figure each layer of aluminum to be 1/8" thick (they're typically thinner but this will work for estimating the rivet you need.) If you have 2 layers of metal you'll need .250" grip range - 3 layers .375" - err on the longer grip range - and get aluminum rivets with steel mandrels.


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