# Help customizing a 13.5 foot aluminum Semi V?



## MotorBoatin (Nov 5, 2012)

I made the mistake of spending too much money on a trailer that I will have to do a lot of customizing to. Most of which are fairly simple fixes and I've finished them. But the biggest issue of all is easily loading/unloading considering I usually do it alone, and after reframing the inside of the boat it's becoming heavier. Far as I've read bunker's are the way to go for the style of loading I will perfer (floating).. I have one crossbar running from wheel to wheel in the back I believe I need to weld another 5 foot toward the tongue and run two by fours from one to the other. The question's begin when trying to figure out how to make the 2x4's hug the semi v while it's narrowing. Any suggestions? I can get pictures if I get enough of a response to figure out how to do it.


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## Bugpac (Nov 5, 2012)

Got pictures? You don't need the entire boat to set on the bunks, my boat weighs at least 1200, probably more, and its cake to load and unload solo.


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## MotorBoatin (Nov 5, 2012)

Not the best picture but I'll have more to come.. Hopefully this will help get responses.


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## Hanr3 (Nov 7, 2012)

I have the similar situaltion and build thread in my signature.

I started by measuring the distance from outside to outside of the bottom ribs on my boat. I use the bottom ribs to center the boat on the bunks. Then I installed a roller to help in loading/unloading. I cant always float on/off at the various ramps near me. That was my starting point. 

During one partiular cross windy day I decided that I needed side guides after the 4th attempt to load. Built and added them, phase 2 complete.

This summer I noticed the front roller was spilting in the center, and I busted off the bow stop again in high winds loading the boat. So phase 3 will be poly roller, new bow stop, and a second bow roller, once of those self centering types. 

Now, if I would have taken all the money I spent on the bunks, carpet, glue, rollers, brackets, and my time farting around with it every year. I think I would have been money and time ahead installing a set of roller bunks in the first place. 

That being said, if your still going with the carpeted bunks, you may not need a secon cross bar. Run the bunks up to where the trailer sides narrow to the tongue. Doesnt matter if the bunks are longer. Mine are 6' and extend past the transom. Over time they take on teh curve of the boat bottom.


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## MotorBoatin (Nov 8, 2012)

Without adding the additional crossbar how will I support the front of the 2x4? Or are you saying to center the 6' 2x4 on the back crossbar? I've thought about centering and my concern is that after it slides the 3 foot toward the catch it will nose down and be back to metal on metal.


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## Hanr3 (Nov 8, 2012)

MAke your 2x4 the length of your back bar to where the trailer narrows. If it is a long stretch, you could use 2-2x4 and form them into a T. The T configuration gives the boards strength vertically and horizontally. If over 8' go with 2x6 top and 2x4 vertical support. your still using 2 brackets per bunk (board) per side. One at each end of the bunk.


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## MotorBoatin (Nov 8, 2012)

I got a chance to go by and look at my boat/trailer and take some measurements, it seems like if I cut bunks approx. 6' I should be able to even the back up with the transom and still have 3' maybe more that should get the boat nearly all the way to the catch if all goes well. I'm thinking if anything it'll need a roller by the catch to keep the nose level as it transitions off of the bunks. I'm going to try to get the bunks cut tomorrow and hope all is well. Is there a certain type of 2x4 that is suggested for bunks? I've heard treated can mess up aluminum?


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