# 1986 16' Grumman V-Hull Mod/Restore | DUCK BOAT *PIC HEAVY*



## hercdrvrwo (Jun 5, 2013)

Hello Everyone! This is my third attempt at posting here! I have been a long time fan of this site and never thought I would be here! I always thought all of this stuff would be out of my league but here I am! Thanks for everyone's posts...truly an inspiration! Such an inspiration that, as is the case with several recent posts, I decided this past weekend to destroy my boat and strip it down so I can build it back up the way I want it! But First...

Me: I am a C-130 Pilot Stationed in Fayetteville, NC. I have ~ 12 yrs in and only 8 more to go! I have a wife & two boys 6 & 8! They are growing up fast and helped motivate me to mod my "duck" boat into a more versatile duck/fishing boat. This is the first year I will take my oldest out on a full hunt on the boat and also the first summer that he has been enjoying lure fishing for bass! As you will see a lot of my comments belong more on duckhunting chat rather than here...but like I said, it is this forum that has inspired me!

My Boat: It is a 1986 Grumman V-Hull, I purchased it two years ago after a deployment. There wasn't a whole lot to do on the boat as my intention was to only hunt out of it and put it aside the rest of the year. It was brown with tan grass stencil painted in blocks....HIDEOUS!! The first thing I did was to paint the boat like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yg3_UvZeeOs This was what I used to help guide me, I used PVC pipe like the guy in the video because of my gunnel and chine. Once I got the ugly off of her I decided to build a scissor blind onto the boat based on this: https://www.duckhuntingchat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=72&t=124449, mine didn't turn out this this...but is was awesome none the less! So it brings me to today -- before I had never cared about the boat other than, can it get me to the ducks...now--I got other plans! Finally, the boat had a dropped in floor using pressure treated lumber and black carpet. It also had a small deck that sat ~ 12 inches off the front seat and on top of the gunnel at the bow. This guy had a foot controlled trolling motor mounted to the top, which I never used unless I was on an electric only lake. I hated the damn thing and it just got in the way. It also had a side console that was doing nothing but holding my anchor/nav light switches.

SOooooo.... I ripped it all out--every last thing...right now she's sitting in the garage ready to be rebuilt. See my Pictures below to follow along, and then I will make more posts with better details...but I am a monkey and pictures are worth 1000 words!!!

Enjoy
Herc


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## hercdrvrwo (Jun 6, 2013)

SO here is my prioritized task list:

Leak Test 1st then:

1. Replace Transom
2. Run wires to general area where switch box/bus bars will be before laying down floor
3. Remove boat from trailer and paint/seal trailer 
a. Add boat buckles
b. Add platform to tongue of trailer for ramp load/unload
c. Replace bearings & Bearing Buddies.
d. put on guides
4. Remove brackets on side where seat used to be. -- I know this will reduce strength in the hull -- but I have a plan which I will explain later in detail when I get to it.
5. Lay floor - basis of everything else -- I will cut the MDO and then use the Epoxy in 4 coats to seal it
a. I am going to add stainless steel drains for the floor for water to drain into the bilge...as you can see in my pictures, I get in and out of the boat a lot with a lot of water coming in.
6. Build front Decks
7. Build Gun boxes
8. Build Back deck
9. Seal everything with Epoxy Sealer
10. Install everything
11. Prime the entire boat
12. Paint the entire boat with Parker's Paint - https://www.cabelas.com/product/Parker-Duck-Boat-Paint-Gallon/734054.uts
13. Finish Electrical -- I will add in some lights on the bow and some red lights in the hold & cockpit for night time illum. Also install a new fish finder/sonar/GPS -- need something to help nbavigate in the fog.
14. Add hatch covers
15. Lay Hydro Turf Duk Grass Cameaux - https://www.gatortraxboats.com/p-160-hydroturf.aspx


Materials

MDO - All decking etc I chose this based on talking to a lot of boat builders...they use the heck out of this for structure and professional Marine Ply for mill work. I liked how light it was and how it is made! It is pricy I paid $72 locally here for per sheet of 3/4 and $54 for 1/2.
Cherry 2x2 for framing -- thought about aluminum but just too costly and I think I can seal it enought not to worry -- plus I have a whole bunch of this from a side job I did--its FREE!
Stainless Steel Screws - expensive!!!
Clark Craft Epoxy - https://www.clarkcraft.com/epoxyinformation.php3
#12 (#3 Marine) Wire - I found a spool at Gander that they used as a spindal to sell in custom lengths...they had it on the clearance rack for $30 -- retailed for $113 Great DEAL! I don't think the person that marked it knew what they were doing.
I got a whole bunch of those foam blocks that are used at lowes/tracker Supply to prop up the tounges on trailers they are selling. I got them for free --just ask, the kids don't know what they are throwing away....I am going to use the blocks to add the foam from what I took out, and use it to shape the gun holders (I will explain this idea later)
PVC Conduit 3/4
3/4 Flexible Conduit

I will keep you updated...

Cheers 
Herc


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## wwcenturion (Jun 6, 2013)

Looks like a solid plan. On my second build I will do things this way.

Looking forward to watching this project.


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## hercdrvrwo (Jun 6, 2013)

Thanks man -- I checked your site out! Looks like you're moving fast! Did you start the day you first posted? What was your timeline like? I hope to have mine done by the first of August -- probably ambitious since I am at work 12 hrs a day and fly quite a bit! Lets stay in touch...

Cheers
Herc


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## BigTerp (Jun 6, 2013)

Looks like a good plan to me. Keep us updated!!

I'm working my own duck hunting/fishing rig. Been a slow process, but I'm finally getting into the meat of the build. My target date is the same as yours, August 1st.


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## hercdrvrwo (Jun 6, 2013)

Thanks man! Been watching your boat a while too! Can't wait to get there!! I like the attention to detail you had in filling the holes. Man -- I don't want to get that detailed but when I read posts and I finally get a good look at the damage etc...I end up getting it fixed up--ALL ADDING TO MY TIME!!

Cheers
Herc


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## BigTerp (Jun 6, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=317646#p317646 said:


> hercdrvrwo » 58 minutes ago[/url]"]Thanks man! Been watching your boat a while too! Can't wait to get there!! I like the attention to detail you had in filling the holes. Man -- I don't want to get that detailed but when I read posts and I finally get a good look at the damage etc...I end up getting it fixed up--ALL ADDING TO MY TIME!!
> 
> Cheers
> Herc



Yeah, it's hard not to get obsessive with things like this. My buddy was giving me hell when I told him I'm going to paint my tempress hatches to match the boat. I figure if I'm investing this much money and time into a project, I might as well make it as nice as possible. It definitely adds to the timeline. I'd like to have mine done in time to do some fishing, but as long as it's done by early duck and goose seasons I'll be happy.


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## bigwave (Jun 6, 2013)

First off I would like to thank you for your service. :WELCOME: Looks like you have a very solid plan......I can not wait to see your vision on the water waiting on the quackers. I too will be watching what you do to this little tinboat. :beer:


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## hercdrvrwo (Jun 6, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=317711#p317711 said:


> bigwave » 06 Jun 2013, 21:03[/url]"]First off I would like to thank you for your service. :WELCOME: Looks like you have a very solid plan......I can not wait to see your vision on the water waiting on the quackers. I too will be watching what you do to this little tinboat. :beer:




Thanks Bigwave! 'preciate that! You and me both brother--feeling the pressure. We have a large exercise about to happen on post in about two weeks for two weeks -- I will get maybe 4 hrs of sleep if that a night -- no time for the boat...So there goes June -- then July is filling up quick! Gotta get this thing done! Nice looking Fish BTW!

Cheers
Herc


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## hercdrvrwo (Jun 6, 2013)

OK Update --

Pulled the Transom off tonight--took a lot longer than I expected but still wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. First time working on one of these things. Just ID all of the bolts and figure out how to remove them. I had to drill out two bolts. Also be careful, once the wood is out the transom is weak. You can't torque down on the aluminum with a pry bar...just sayin  See the pictures below but the previous owners are definitely showing how NOT to do things.

These are lessons you can learn if you are a noob like me from this site by simply searching the forum -- I know how I won't be putting this thing back in!

1. Used wood screws to laminate the boards together.
2. Drilled a wire holder directly into the boat and covered it with 5200 -- good & bad. Good: Proven-- 5200 seems to plug miner holes Bad: Now I have to fix it!!!!
3. Used something other than Stainless Steel and every bolt was rusted on or so corroded they just popped right out.
4. Wood is pressure treated as you can tell -- the aluminum is VERY corroded. Going to take the boat up to my Father in Law's work where a guy that works with aluminum might be able to tell me if I have to replace the entire back transom.  

Ok so today my Clark Craft Epoxy came in. I ordered it Monday and it came on Thursday! Everything was in order! Quick -- I like it!

SO I am going to follow all of BigTerp's Advise from here: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=26774&start=30 on his lessons learned from rebuilding his! Specifically glueing the two full sheets together THEN cutting the pattern out -- GENIUS!!

Ok Question time: 

1. I plan to use two pieces of 3/4 MDO and laminating -- any tips with MDO? Don't want to start another argument but did anyone consider MDO for their transom?
2. If I sand -> Acetone -> etch -> prime my transom, will it stop the corrosion? 
3. The Transom I pulled out doesn't go all the way from one side of the boat to the other -- it had ~ 3/8th of an inch between each side -- I assume this is for expansion-do I need that much or should I try to pattern a new one? Also it didn't quite extend down all the way into the seat that the bottom of the wood sat on...should it?
4. So to clean up those holes that the PO drilled into the side of the boat -- should I drill it out more and rivet it or take it to a welder?

Of course I didn't clean anything up tonight -- work tomorrow but I thought I would share. Thanks for taking a look!


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## bigwave (Jun 7, 2013)

Yes it is typical to sandwich two pieces of 3/4" plywood for the transom. Make sure you use lots of clamps and a good glue like titebond III. It really is not that hard, just make sure you seal it good and use 5200 anywhere you drill holes for the bolts. IMO plywood is the way to go since softwood like pine will rot over time and hardwoods like oak will crack due to the stress from the engine. You have a template with the old piece, just make sure you get trace when you make the new one. I used a palm sander for the edges before I fiberglassed mine, followed by two coats of gel-coat. Mine should last a good long time.


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## hercdrvrwo (Jun 7, 2013)

Roger that!

So will MDO work here -- it is a plywood (used for outdoor signs)? I plan to use my Clark Craft resin (4 coats) -- thought about fiber glass but wasn't sure I wanted to go that route in case I wanted to add anything to the transom down the road -- if you drill into wood covered by fiberglass -- will that mess up the fiber glass and give a place for water to eventually work its way in between?

Also, it looks like of the two boards glued together -- the aft board was not one full sheet, it was two separate pieces (split down the middle, so in all three pieces of wood made up the transom).

Cheers
Herc


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## BigTerp (Jun 7, 2013)

BigWave had some solid advice. I'll try and answer your questions based on my transom replacement experience.



[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=317732#p317732 said:


> hercdrvrwo » Yesterday, 10:16 pm[/url]"]OK Update --
> 
> 
> SO I am going to follow all of BigTerp's Advise from here: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=26774&start=30 on his lessons learned from rebuilding his! Specifically glueing the two full sheets together THEN cutting the pattern out -- GENIUS!!
> ...



A few things to look out for/consider when doing this job. 

-Expect things not to line up perfectly when you install your new wood. I guess mine was slightly bowed in the middle causing me to have to drill new holes in the bottom of my hull for my 2 main transom braces. I thought I had really screwed things up when I got to this point. But all I had to do was line things up as close to original as possible, drill new holes and install my solid rivets. Worked like a charm.

-For drilling your transom wood holes make sure you use the transom itself, not the old transom wood. What I did was have my wife hold the new wood on the transom. I then drilled the top two holes and installed bolts in each to hold it nice and firm. Then going from the back of the transom, I drilled each hole carefully. They then lined up almost perfectly, helping me to avoid headaches when installing my hardware. Also drill your holes before you apply your final coat or 2 of epoxy. This allows the bolt holes to have a bit of sealant on them as well.

-Use some 5200 on every hole you have. I just put a bit on each bolt and rivet that I installed. Really good insurance, especially for holes below the water line. Be sure to give your 5200 the recommended 7 days cure time before you primer/paint over top of it as well.

-Make sure to use a few coats of urethane for UV protection following your epoxy. I don't think most epoxy resins have UV protection in them. IIRC I did 3 coats of epoxy and 2 of spar urethane. Like I said before, my boat has sat uncovered for 9 months and was abused pretty good during waterfowl season. My transom wood still looks like it was done yesterday.

Nothing else I think of at the moment. This is a pretty straight forward job, but in my experience rather tedious. It's worth it once you get it done for sure, but you'll be more than happy when it is done!! If you run into any issues I'll TRY to help if I can. GOOD LUCK!!!


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## hercdrvrwo (Jun 7, 2013)

BigTerp -

Here is what MDO is: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medium_density_overlay_panel

Thanks for the words! I appreciate it! It will go slow -- but I will get it done.

So prioritized task list for the Transom:

1. Laminate boards - 2x 3/4 while that is setting up
2. Clean up transom - Sand & Wire brush
3. Drill out leaky holes and weld/rivet back up
4. Acetone then prime it up.
5. Cut boards to pattern - the transom I just pulled out was not the original. It was ~ 1 inch too short and didn't sit down on the shelf designed for the transom wood. The previous owners bolts didn't grab much of the wood.
6. Expoxy - 4 coats
7. Prime the board -- I plan to paint the transom the same color as the boat because I will be putting my camo pattern on the entire boat -- I leave nothing to chance when I am duck hunting!
8. Install using Big Terp's method - except I will use clamps not the wife -- not that she wouldn't help, I just need the me time to do it myself!

That's my plan. Should take maybe 1 week & a couple 'a hrs each day!


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## BigTerp (Jun 7, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=317795#p317795 said:


> hercdrvrwo » 15 minutes ago[/url]"]BigTerp -
> 
> Here is what MDO is: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medium_density_overlay_panel
> 
> ...


Thats probably a pretty good estimate. Mine took a bit longer only because halfway through I left for the beach. I would say no more than a week, especially if you already have all your supplies in order. The longest part for me was waiting on the epoxy to cure. I could only do 1 coat every 24 hours. So thats three days right there.


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## hercdrvrwo (Jun 9, 2013)

Another Update:

So I cleaned up the transom and here is what I have. A LOT of pitting and some really corroded bolt holes. I used a wire brush on my drill then used 60 grit/then 120 grit sandpaper to clean everything up. I have one wash of acetone on there and I am about to use a combo etch/primer in three layers to seal everything up -- just waiting on advise before I do this though so I don't waste my time/money...see below.

Also I have decided to move on with the front of the boat and its modifications. My father in law is a master carpenter and is the big man mill work guy at OBX boatworks: https://www.obx-boatworks.com/Welcome.html just up the road. He's going to do the lamination with me and show me a thing or two! So lucky to have his skill-set to help guide me through this whole project. SO I figure while I am putting on the coats of epoxy and fixing the back area, it doesn't slow me down on working on wiring and framing up in the middle/bow section of the boat.

So here are my questions:

1. For the bolt holes...should I drill them out to a larger diameter then replace with overkill bolts? I know they will not work the way they are now even with copious amounts of 5200 they will eventually leak!

2. Do You think I have stopped the corrosion? I will acetone and then etch/prime before installing new transom? Is the pitting too far gone? Need some help --it looks like crap to me, BUT there is going to be a 1.5 inch board to stengthen it when I am done...so if I have stopped the corrosion will that be enough or do you think I need to replace the transom? aluminum...

BTW I think this is a great example (because I am having to pay for it/spend time on it) of why you should invest a few extra bucks on stainless steel and not use pressure treated lumber.

Also -- think while back there in the transom area -- thinking about adding these beavertail pods. I will need to find a place for the transducers for my Lowrance.


https://www.cabelas.com/product/Beavertail-Performance-Flotation-Pods/847206.uts?Ntk=AllProducts&searchPath=%2Fcatalog%2Fsearch.cmd%3Fform_state%3DsearchForm%26N%3D0%26fsch%3Dtrue%26Ntk%3DAllProducts%26Ntt%3Dbeavertail%2Bpods%26x%3D-1187%26y%3D-51%26WTz_l%3DHeader%253BSearch-All%2BProducts&Ntt=beavertail+pods&WTz_l=Header%3BSearch-All+Products


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## hercdrvrwo (Jun 12, 2013)

So A quick update,

Got the Transom laminated -- but haven't done much with the boat. Just sat in it and changed my mind a million times on what its going to look like. I just need to do it and get going -- it will come together soon enough I guess. Anyone else been here? I'm Stuck -- feel like my next move will basically finalize the boat's end design = running the electrical before laying the floor etc.

Still not sure what to do with the bolt holes on the transom -- anyone got anything for that?

Cheers
Herc


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## bigwave (Jun 12, 2013)

I say just use some larger bolts if you can get away with it....fender washers on both sides with a good amount of 5200 and call it done.....the bottom one looks bad, but with large fender washers and the 5200 you should not have any problems.


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## hercdrvrwo (Jun 13, 2013)

So, has the corrosion stopped? Or will hole keep getting larger?


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## BigTerp (Jun 14, 2013)

I agree with bigwave on how to treat your transom holes. I had some decent corrosion behind my old transom wood as well. Nothing quite as bad and the one hole you have though. I would drill that one out to as big as you are comfortable with and reinstall the proper size bolt with some large washers and a generous amount of 5200. Once the 5200 sets up hit it with some self etching primer and I bet you'll be good to go.

As far as design changes go, I've more than been there. When I first got my boat I wanted to instantly have at it with the plan I had in mind. My buddy convinced me to wait until spring so we could use it to duck/goose hunt. Best idea yet. Being able to actually use the boat and spend alot of time on the water caused me to change my ideas numerous times and fine tune exactly what I want to do. Now I have no doubt as to what I want the end result to be. Just need to find the time to get it done!!


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## hercdrvrwo (Jun 18, 2013)

Update....

Haven't done much -- I have but remember I only have a couple of hours each night after the fam has gone to bed. SOOOO...

As I sit in the boat and imagine what I want to do and change my mind a million times -- I quickly realize that This venture just got really expensive. So I have been on EBAY selling everything I have that I don't use anymore. I have sold over 20 items and amassed a little fortune. It has taken quite a bit of time to stage, photograph and list everything. I also am selling my 20' Pontoon boat, not because I need to or that the wife will allow me to put the money into this boat, but because I will be moving next year and I figured I might as well sell it before the 4th when everyone is looking for a boat. 

SOOO, I went ahead and purchased the Beaver tails and lined up a welder to put them on. I also purchased Parkers Duck boat paint in Marsh grass and also purchased 4 hatches for the boat. I also purchased all of the electrical pvc conduit and piping that I will need.

Tonight I start on the electrical -- Finally!!! Transom is being laminated as we speak two 3/4 MDO plywood. The plan is to weld the Beavertails on then install the transom -- obviously a challenge in that I have the lower bolts to put in before the beavertail comes in. I am going to notch the transom and use VERY large fender washers. I will install it after the welding is done!

Then we'll start on the decking and start framing everything up!


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## hercdrvrwo (Jul 25, 2013)

Sorry I haven't been updateing this -- We had a large exercise and now I am concentrating on my boat so it can be ready by Teal Season 5 Sept - 26 Sept.

So there are going to be a ton of updates in installments so here they go.

So the next step I took after getting the boat all cleaned up and electrical run was to bring it back to my Father in Law's workplace and start working on it there.

We got in there and scaled out the Floor -- MDO comes in standard sized sheets and I couldn't do the entire floor with just one sheet so we picked where our seam was going to be and started scribing the boards to the inside of the Chine.

How we did this was:

1. Took two long pieces of some ol 1/8 inch ply and scribed them to the Chine
a. Scribing takes time -- don't rush it. Do small sections at a time and be ready to start again -- thats why its good to make the template = more work ... better quality.
b. Make sure you keep your pencil and scribe at the same angle as you drag the scribe across the curve of the boat.
2. Took another two pieces and fit them Perpendicular
3. Took hot glue and glued the four corners together
4. Then took it out and lined it up on our two sheets of 3/4 MDO
5. Cut out the pieces and dry fit them.

I took those pieces back home and started my 2 Part Expoxy regime on the floor and the transom.


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## hercdrvrwo (Jul 25, 2013)

Ok,

SO my thought process was this:

1. I need to epoxy these floors with 3 coats 
a. Its high traffic and I want a thick base for the high traffic area
b. I know I am putting a removable rubber floor in after but I wanted it solid

Jeopardy song playing the the background....

So While I was doing the epoxy thing I got a wild hair and tore into my Engine ('86 Evinrude 30 HP Electric start)-- WOW don't do that! Its expensive and time consuming but here's why I did it...
a. I did it because I was having trouble starting it this last season.
b. AAHHHhh what the hell!!Its a restore right!
I replaced the:
Carburetor
Fuel Pump
Fuel Lines
Lube'd the Gear Case
Prop Seal
Prop
Throttle on the Tiller
Choke

I added:
Paint -- I couldn't wait to see what my color was going to look like since I couldn't find a good picture on the internet (so many are so different D2 the cameras used) 
Fuel Filter
Fuel Line Quick Release system (My old one was hard wired in and 5200 was all over the engine from previous owner)


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## hercdrvrwo (Jul 25, 2013)

Next Step:

I realized that because I took out the middle seat -- the floor used angle brackets riveted to them then screwed the floor into the angle brackets -- I was going to need support under my floor. I also realized that if I built the supports, they could keep my electrical conduit off the hull of the boat.

So I took an angle from the three ribs that I was going to put the supports on and then scribed a template like before and cut them out.

Once they were cut out I drilled my holes for the conduit and I epoxied the crap out of those too since they would be in the Hold of the boat expose to water quite a bit.

Play Jeopardy song again -- 

Once everything was done I decided to use a product called -- STEEL FLEX. IT IS AWESOME it goes on like normal Caulking but holds like nothing I have every seen.

I put down the supports down, then ran my wires again then put down the floor.


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## hercdrvrwo (Jul 25, 2013)

Here comes the fun part -- FINALLY.

So with the floor in I decided to work on the dront Deck which would establish the heights and measurements for eveything else.

1. I don't have a lot of pictures here because we went in with a basic idea -- see first post -- and just started putting wood on. 

2. Now this part we used a lot of Cedar that my Father-in-law had around for the frame and used the MDO for supports and the deck itself.

3. We decided that again -- we didn't have enough MDO to do the whole thing in one sheet so we split it up. 
a. come to find out -- this worked out best because we could work with smaller peices of wood to scribe to the angles needed and we could put battens down along the seams to provide extra strength to the entire deck without adding too much framing.

4. Now the idea was that I wanted a Hold to put about 3 dozen decoys in. This hold would have a removeable hatch and then when the hold was empty a person could sit in there and hunt from inside the hold.

5. We ended up having enough room for an anchor hatch just in front of it too before the upper deck meets flush with the Gunnel. Eventually I will put a motor up front, but for now I wanted to get the wiring done and the battery compartment built and ready for that day.

So thats where we are -- Back to Epoxy chore -- Yes I know it doesn't all need it, but I want this boat to last!

Next this weekend is the Gun box and Storage

then we tackle the aft end of the boat -- stay tuned I totally goofed already there...I hope I can find a way out....not gonna tell ya what I did, lets see if you can figure it out -- BL the transom tells the story.


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## hercdrvrwo (Jul 25, 2013)

I ALMOST FORGOT

INSTALLED THE BEAVERTAIL PODS!!! I also had the welder seal up and I am going to grind down all of the old bolt holes.


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## Keystone (Jul 26, 2013)

WOW! Really starting to look great!


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## BigTerp (Jul 26, 2013)

Looking good man!!!


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## bigwave (Jul 28, 2013)

Killer job man.........looks real good. =D>


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## hercdrvrwo (Jul 30, 2013)

Thanks fellas! I appreciate it -- I really want to get this boat done.

So here is what we did this weekend.

1. Built the Gun box and seats. ( I don't have all of the pictures)

2. Installed the Transom. 

3. Pulled the boat off the trailer to work on the trailer before the boat gets too heavy to do that.
a. We plan on redoing the bunks
b. replacing the bearings & Seals.
c. I thought about painting the trailer -- but painting a galvanized trailer doesn't seem to check here on tinboats -- so I won't do it. Which sucks, because I like the durability of a galvanized trailer -- but hate the look.

I also added a stencil onto the cowling cover. -- The motor is ready to go!

Cheers
Herc


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## BigTerp (Aug 1, 2013)

Nice work. Those transoms are a real PITA!!!

When does your season open up?


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## hercdrvrwo (Aug 1, 2013)

Early Canadian 2 Sept - 30 Sept -- Teal from 5 Sept - 26 Sept -- Early season Waterfowl 2-5 Oct. 

Don't think I will make the teal or the goose -- too much going on at work and working on the boat! Want to have scouting done by Early Season though! SO I need the boat done by mid Sept.

Its coming along but slowly! The Transom is done -- now just need to finish everything else. I would say a solid week of only working on the boat would work--so like ~ 50 hours or so left maybe.

Cheers
Herc


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## BigTerp (Aug 2, 2013)

Sounds good. 

Early goose opens up Sept. 2nd for us as well. Goes out the 27th. We don't get a teal season. Suppose to announce the late seasons this Monday. I'm about 85% done with my boat. Just need to finish painting the interior and installing my accessories. Doubt we'll have the jet done and mounted by early goose though, so the 1965 Jonhson 5hp will have to do the job for a little while.


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## Pweisbrod (Aug 3, 2013)

Project is awesome so far. How's it coming?


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## hercdrvrwo (Aug 18, 2013)

OK another update after a long time between posts -- Sorry guys! The reason it is taking so long is because I build something in parts in order to properly water seal and epoxy everything. So with the 2-part I decided to do this because I wanted everything to be able to withstand a beating because it isn't aluminum. I decided not to go with aluminum -- not because of the cost -- because I think in the end I will be only slightly cheaper than aluminum -- its because I couldn't afford the welder & because with wood I can shape and fit everything with tools and skill sets that I and my father in law have. So the epoxy process is long! I was doing 2 to 3 coats of the epoxy and noticed it wouldn't come out good and I was doing a lot of sanding on it. Then I decided to put 2 coats of quick drying sanding sealer first which seals up the paper on the MDO and will provide another waterproof layer if the epoxy fails.

SO I Brought the trailer home -- I don't have any pictures because it itsn't done yet but I completely rebuilt the trailer -- Just waiting on the welder to finish off the tounge (I bent it on the last day of duck season last year on the ice) That has taken the most time.

So on top of working on the trailer during the work week -- on the weekends I go up to My Father-in-Law's to where he works -- Shamelss Plug -- OBX Boatworks

1. SO I am lucky that I have him because he is a Master Carpenter & Millwork expert! I started putting my two cents in on everything but soon realized I should sit back and watch a genious work! So I have been doing what my skill set allows and learning from him.

2. SO with that said for some reason we stopped working on the gunbox and moved over to the console box:
a. We Scribed in the two ends -- our plan changed drastically -- we were going to have the box run the length of the boat but decided on a electrical box and then a boc large enough for a 11 x 15 hatch.
b. I will upload another sketch of the boat here in a few days.
c. SO on the box we inset the switch panel, added a Battery test panel and a 12v power outlet for my spotlight
d. Just look at the craftsmanship. -- We used 1/2 inch MDO and two small pieces of 3/4 inch MDO for the sides.
e. We used white oak for the flange around the top of the box and then used bondo to cover all of the screw holes and smooth everything over.
f. On the back we hold everything together with cleats and glue.
g. Then we cut out the hole for my pry out hatch -- to have access to the electrical if needed. its a Rabud 10 x 14. 
h. Finally we added 2 part epoxy over everything. (see pictures later)
i. When I get the part in ( TH MArine Dark Grey 11 x 15 Cam Hatch) we will install it and another divider for dry storage.


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## hercdrvrwo (Aug 18, 2013)

SO be sure to see my previous post for the update -- but this weekend we worked on the aft deck. 

I finally finished the transom too! My thought process on the back deck (don't ask me why) was to have it removable to replace. So its very modular -- I figure since my dog will be getting in and out of the boat back there and it will take the most beating, I though it would need the most replacing.

Back deck build.
1. So, I added a 2x2 inch strip of Aluminum angle to the seat base just aft of the rear seat. Then held a board level and marked a long line across the transom. I just used rivets.
2. I built the floor for the batteries and gas tank to go on two pieces of 1/2 inch MDO -- Standard gooping of sanding sealer and Epoxy.
a. I just took the board and screwed in some Cedar and leveled it out. (2 pieces of wood the cedar stands and sits on the rib and the bottom board sits in the chine like the rest of my deck.
3. I added another couple of 2 x 2 aluminum to the base of the rear seat to stabilize with rivets.
4. Then screwed in the board to the angle. -- Easy pezy -- notice the lack of craftsmanship -- yeah that part is mine!! 
5. Then I added the Battery Boxes.
6. Then I ran my wire to the front panel box (next week is electrical and I will post my wiring diagram)
7. I took two 3/4 inch MDO and laminated them together to form a cleat to attach to the transom (standard Goop process on those too) The we cut a 12 degree angle on it to level out the back deck due to the angle of the transom.
8. This is where my father in law's Macgyver skills came into play.
a. He took a large piece of laminated (3x 1/2 MDO) and cut it to wedge into the transom support brace and the rear seat...so you can't pick it straight up, only move it side to side!! Its using wedge power -- the simplest tool in the shed!!
b. Then he cut out one piece of 1/2 MDO to fit the entire back deck 
i. while it was in we designed it with a pencil on the solid sheet
ii. once designed he started marking his cuts while I went and started working on the wiring and got out of his way!!
c. He cut out the hatches 
d. then he cut the angle for the outboard area.
e. then he added 1 inch battens all the way around for a frame
i. That frame sits on top of the wedge, the angle and the transom cleats.

Now all I have to do is goop everything up and bring it back next weekend.

We should be able to finish up the gun box next weekend and then cut the holes for the hatches.

After next weekend I am going to prep her for paint -- the epoxy doesn't like paint so I have to sand it up a little and use asitone to remove the slippery film that the epoxy gives off and then prime everything.

Once I paint it all then I am ready to put it all together!! I see light -- a weee bit of hope that this thing will be done by mid -sept...about 1 1/2 months past my deadline!


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## BigTerp (Aug 19, 2013)

Looking good man =D> 

I like the recessed mount for your control panel. Thought about doing something similar for protection purposes, but I didn't. Might need to down the road if my panel starts getting beat up.


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## riverrat174 (Aug 19, 2013)

I wish I had HALF that woodworking skill. I am dreading putting my front deck in, I'm just not sure how to go about it. Look great tho man. Keep it up!!!


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## hercdrvrwo (Aug 19, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=326541#p326541 said:


> BigTerp » 19 Aug 2013, 08:39[/url]"]Looking good man =D>
> 
> I like the recessed mount for your control panel. Thought about doing something similar for protection purposes, but I didn't. Might need to down the road if my panel starts getting beat up.




Yeah, Since I am not going to be reusing my tall big blind, opting for a laydown style blind in the boat -- I thought it would be best to save myself a few inches -- when I get done with the boat and start working on the blind I will show you want I am talking about but basically -- I saved myself ~ 4 inches of clearance when I lay down in the boat.

Thanks for checking it out!


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## hercdrvrwo (Aug 19, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=326550#p326550 said:


> riverrat174 » 19 Aug 2013, 09:21[/url]"]I wish I had HALF that woodworking skill. I am dreading putting my front deck in, I'm just not sure how to go about it. Look great tho man. Keep it up!!!



I wish I had half the skill too -- after watching him it isn't too bad -- what will help you the most is the angle measurer found on page one of this post but also a band saw that can tilt to match the angle. My Father-in-law comes on here to watch the post, I really wish he would hop on and give his two cents so you could all learn his macguiver skills!! Thanks for watching btw!! I know the pictures don't do it justice, but we are getting close to being done with the bulk of the work -- the rest is paint and details!

Cheers
Herc


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## BigTerp (Aug 20, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=326652#p326652 said:


> hercdrvrwo » Yesterday, 8:40 pm[/url]"]
> 
> 
> [url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=326541#p326541 said:
> ...



That makes sense. I was trying to keep things as open as possible as well. I don't hunt out of my boat, but wanted as much room as possible for shuffling around the boat with waders and heavy jackets on. The open floor is also nice for decoy bags, blind bags, guns, etc. I was up on my boat the other day when I was installing my seat bases. It's amazing how much larger it seems without the middle bench.


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## hercdrvrwo (Aug 20, 2013)

Terp 

That was one of my big concerns when designing my boat -- in the front I made the room between the front bench seat and the bow bench seat a decoy storage area...it in the hold under the front deck. I can fit 4 dozen decoys in there -- it doesn't have a floor. So water and mud can drain to the back -- I should be able to hose out the hold too with no worries. My Gun Storage box should hold guns and the camp stove for sausage and eggs in the blind. My camo netting should fit in the storage area forward of the gun box, and then my blind bag stuff should fit under the aft seat and then things I don't want to get wet like my first aid kit etc will go in the side electrical & console box.

I shouldn't have much to block the way on my boat...Once the boat is built I plan to do a youtube video on a walk through. I will show you want I am talking about then!

Cheers
Herc


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## hercdrvrwo (Aug 22, 2013)

Got my aft deck "Goop'd" up! SHould be ready for install this weekend. Also got my last big buy in the mail. 4x TH Marine 11 x 15 Hatches. I ordered "Dark Grey" -- but there isn't anything Dark about them -- anyone have any luck painting hatches? I would assume its like painting plastic -- it will work for a little bit but then shed the paint. I know Krylon has rattle cans for plastics but its all high gloss and I need something subdued. I might just have to buy more hydroturf and put hydroturf on the hatch lids.

Thoughts anyone?


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## BigTerp (Aug 22, 2013)

Krylon does have flat, but the colors are limited. I've had great success with Krylon on plastic. i used it on the plastic wheel well covers on my truck. Just be a matter of finding the color you want. When I was considering going the plastic hatch route it was suggested to get some sort of cleaner/degresser/striper for plastic before painting. I don't remember exactly what it was though. But it was supposed to take the "sheen" off the plastic and give your primer something to adhere to.


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## hercdrvrwo (Aug 22, 2013)

Thx Terp -- anyone have an experience with hatches?? Is it even worth it and should I return the hatches?

Cheers
Herc


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## BigTerp (Aug 22, 2013)

This is supposed to be some good stuff.

https://www.duplicolor.com/products/adhesionPromoter/


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## edlacy (Aug 22, 2013)

That is the same primer I used on my ATV under Krylon "Camouflage" paint to prevent the paint from peeling off. Worked very well. 
I scuffed up the plastic with 220 to give the primer something to grip to. 
It's held up for two deer seasons of hard use.


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