# My Basket Case ( 12' V Hull Restoration/ Conversion)



## simbelle (Dec 1, 2012)

Hey People, I have been trolling the sight for a little while now picking up pointers and answers. Now I've decided to join and share my experiences and hopefully gain some new knowledge. Without further a due here is my story. After going threw withdraws for about a year and a half after selling my 19' center console, (Man. I loved that boat!), I picked up an old 12' aluminum V hull, 15hp motor, trailer, 30lb thrust Minn Kota and Series 29 battery (both battery and trolling motor are less than a year old). Thought I was getting a great deal but after stripping some paint I'm thinking it was only a good deal. 

Not sure of the maker of the boat but it looks like the one in Berto's link: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=27433 

Except t isn't in near as good shape. First thing I did was fill it with a couple inches of water to see were the inevitable leaks were. found 3 leaks one on the bow, and one in the rear in the keel and the last being in the rear keel runner type thing on the left, but nothing real serious, however after better inspection I found a significant patched hole in the rear next to the second stringer from the stern ( Plz don't ask me why I didn't look under the boat). Also after scrapping away paint and chalk and whatever I found that the 3rd and 4th stingers had breaks in them. I know what your thinking and believe me I thought it too: "Sell the boat for scrap and put out a couple hundred bucks and buy another boat!" This all being said I do have one thing in my favor, my cousin is probably the best welder in the world!

Here are some pictures of what I'm starting with. I will add more of the inside tomorrow. This should be fun.





my attempt to use some of that "Miracle low temp aluminum welding rod on the bow leak that had evidently been patched sometime in the past. Not a good Idea in hind sight




same thing on left runner thingy. (actually worked).




patch of G5 and fiberglass mesh from West Marine. Sanded down pretty smooth and tight




old patch that is really pretty good but may or may not be replaced with with a welded patch.






Plan is to finish removing paint inside and out, have my cousin MIG weld the cracked braces, the hole, weld aluminum channel runners for flooring (going to put them about 12" apart {48" beam} and lay 1/2" epoxied plywood) and slightly elevated front deck. Coat all seems inside and out with Gluvit ( actually complete outside to above riveted sides). Prime inside and out paint inside with a bilge paint (maybe) and the outside with Pettit Easypoxy. also need my cousin to extend my trailerr a couple feet and move the axle. I believe it was originally a Jet ski trailer.

Anyway that's my plan and I welcome your critique and opinions.
I will post more top side pictures tomorrow.


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## simbelle (Dec 2, 2012)

*TOP SIDE*
You can see were some I removed a 1x4 someone had screwed to the sides, lots of 1.4" holes on the top.need to extend that tonque so I don't back mt SUV into the water; alsocould extend rear of trailer 2'. We'll see.




other side




all old wood removed fro transom, more holes




transom, will remove top fasteners on brace add a stainless steel drain plug and re fasten.




only one original bench seat remaining. wood benchs that had folding pedestal seats removed.




big hole in bottom from the inside< plan is to weld a patch




cracked bracing, to be welded




another cracked bracing, to be welded




lots of holes, plan is to use Marine Tex grey with fiberglass mat on inside and just Marine Tex outside and sand. too much?


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## simbelle (Dec 2, 2012)

One question I do have is: Styrofoam panels under flooring, are they glued to hull? I was thinking I could glue them to my epoxied flooring between the bracing thus leaving better drainage in the hull. Good/Bad?Indifferent? It will be a while before I get to that point and I'm sure I'll have a few more questions.


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## kfa4303 (Dec 2, 2012)

Sure, your plan will work fine simbelle as long as the decks never come free, the foam/air will be trapped in the hull to aid in floatation. Be sure you use closed cell foam board such as the pink/blue/green insulation panels at Lowes/HD.


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## Gators5220 (Dec 2, 2012)

This was my first boat, or looks a lot like her (not the exact boat but model) which was a 69 Sears boat 12ft v-bottom, but a lot of companies made boats just like this one.


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## tnriverluver (Dec 2, 2012)

You really should take that boat to a professional welder and have them fix and reinforce those ribs and keel breaks. If you are just planning a row boat you might get away with some cheap patching but running and pounding from and outboard and waves, the cheap patching is not going to cut it and will fail in very short order. Amazing how much an aluminum boat bottom flexes and bends when under way in even the slightest waves.


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## simbelle (Dec 3, 2012)

Ya thanks, I was planning on having my cousin fix the ribs. I will grind down my patches on the keel and see what happens. I know I can get the fiberglass mat off but its aluminium welded under neath I just didn't get it water tight. (dripped when flipped and filled)


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## simbelle (Dec 4, 2012)

Bad news for me! Just talked to my cousin and he doesn't do MIG welding. Crap! Guess I'll give it a shot with the low temp alumaweld sticks again. The videos show tat hammered bonds do not break on the welds. Not sure boat is worth price of having it welded, but I'll call around.


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## Gators5220 (Dec 4, 2012)

You might check here and see if you can find someone that does side work that's a welder, some of that shouldn't be a big deal to weld as long as you clean the spots up beforehand...like for instance sand it and clean it with acetone do the prep work so to speak.


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## simbelle (Dec 10, 2012)

Yes, decided to just do more prep on whole boat: tried to fix one brace myself and completely botched the job. Going to pick up new aluminum stock for the repair and take it to see what a local welder can do. Original bracing is 1/16 or less thick I could match or go heavier. Ordered box of 100 of stainless steel Truss head bolts, washers and nylon lock washers to put in rivet holes. Amazing how cheap they are from a supplier compared to Home Depot, Lowes or West Marine. Working a lot now at Christmas time so everything is taking longer; would like to get it painted by Feb 1 because I'm moving. Not sure were yet though! LOL


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## simbelle (Dec 11, 2012)

Picked up some 1" X 1/2" X 1/8" aluminum channel to run directly next to the broken ribs. Plan on bolting it threw the hull ~ every 4" with #10 X 24 X 1/2 " stainless steel truss head bolts; of coarse there will 5200 b/w the head and the hull and hill and the channel. talked to a couple welders and they either wanted too much or I didn't get a confident feeling about them. Besides 10 bucks for the braces and 15 dollars for 100 SS bolts, Nylon lock nuts and washers don't hurt too bad for this old peace of @$#%! :lol:


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## Gators5220 (Dec 12, 2012)

If leaking is the issue your worried about, you could do what I eventually plan on doing to my boat, coating the inside with bed liner. Just my two cents.


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## simbelle (Dec 12, 2012)

I have a gallon of Gluvit just wating to be used; still sanding grinding stripping and wire brushing years of of paint and chalk. Guess if I wasn't so frigging ornary I might have a friend or two who would be willing to help me out....then again, maybe not. :LOL2:


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## Gators5220 (Dec 12, 2012)

Ya that stuff is pretty sweet, my advice lay on a layer of 5200 caulk on the seems first, and layer it a couple of times, of course prep work is the most important so a little sanding and acetone always helps!

I dunno if I mentioned it before but this I believe is a 12ft sears boat, this was the first boat I ever owned and we actually ran over to the bamahas a couple of times in it! Crazy I know but I was young and dumb!


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## simbelle (Dec 12, 2012)

That is crazy! I use to get shaky 10 miles out in my center console; but I'm a fisherman not a sea captian. I could do without the the big deep water; I love the intracoastal. Ya, I read that and I believe your correct sanded down the transum and found an engraved hull #and that it's rated for a 7.5 hp motor, I got and old 2 cycle Sea king 15hp that runs pretty good that came with it and only wieghts about 50 pounds, if that.


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## Gators5220 (Dec 12, 2012)

Ya I had a 15hp johnson, and it ran like 32mph by myself wide open throttle, which is fast for a little boat like this! It was crazy I agree, but I was very young like 15-16 yrs old, and not the smartest person in the world lol, as we all were at that age! What are you gonna do with yours flats fish?


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## simbelle (Dec 12, 2012)

Yes, flats mainly from Mosquito Lagoon down to Fort Pierce on the east coast. Lived in Ft. Pierce for about 15 yrs and waded a lot of area's , so I now the spots both shallow and deep. Besides it's the best Snook fishing on the East coast and maybe the best all species fishing on the intacoastal waterway. I will probably drop it in on the local lakes for some Bass and Speck action once in a while also. If I ever get it done. Have to find another place to live, turned in my notice here where I've lived for last 7 yrs.


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## Gators5220 (Dec 19, 2012)

Ah yes the joys of moving, god I dread having to move from my place like six months from now! I used to live in Vero before moving to gainesville for college, so I know those waters really well.


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## simbelle (Dec 19, 2012)

Got a friend who lives in Vero; I know it well. Got the outside of the boat all down to bare metal. Man it took me a while to figer out what worked best on 30 years of paint I used a wire wheel ( best around the rivets, Orbital sander, (ok and nice finish for painting), Aircraft stripper, it was OK , this boat just add about 4 different layers of paint to it, Finally put a sanding pad on my 41/2 inch grinder with 50 grit paper and made short work of it; Just have to have a light touch and keep it moving. On my Broken Braces on the inside I bought 2, 1 foot sections of 2 1/4, 1/8 inch thick channel and slid it up under and around the 2" braces and bolted it through the hull with stainless steel truss head bolts / nylon lock washers and 5200. Stronger than than factory.


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## simbelle (Dec 21, 2012)

Did a little more since i took these pics. Completed stripping outside down to metal and coated with 2 coats of Gluvit.


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## simbelle (Dec 31, 2012)

Thought the sanding would never end, Sealed Outside bottom with 2 coats Gulvit and primed; Also covered all the holes along the top with fiberglass tape reinforced Marine Tex (both white and grey).


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## Gators5220 (Jan 1, 2013)

Lookin good there brother, =D> =D> =D> =D> what's next?


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## simbelle (Jan 1, 2013)

Sand couple spots, cut off transom brace, clean up be hind it and install a stainless steel drain plug, reseal transom with 5200; build and install new transom brace lower and upper; Cut off old bench seat brackets; wash it down; 2 coats Gluvit inside and top of outside. Take it to the lake and see if she leaks. If she doesn't I will start installing aluminum bracing for the floor ( 1.25" square tubing ). Picked up a 6" cut off saw at Harbor Freight for 40 bucks ( saves me from having to rent one and rushing to use it and get it back and all that BS ). Not sure of what all I'm going to do to it, but I'm going to keep it pretty basic b/c I don't think the max load on this boat is to high and I'm 250 lbs, another 50 for the motor, then there is gas tank trolling motor battery ( will go up front ) bait/bait well ( not doing a fish live well ) and the girl friend. will be laying the tubing directly on the stringers start at the second one from the rear and runing them parallel atop of them to about where the second bend crease is attaching with 1/4 x 1/2 aluminum rivets as It gets toward the Front stringer it will be 4" to 6" ( or maybe more ) off the center I' be running A 1 1/2 channel down the inside of the keel line riveted to each stringer and extending past the last one to place my center supports in to and support front decking/ battery, anchor locker.


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## Gators5220 (Jan 2, 2013)

Nice I had this very boat with a 15hp that I upped to an 18hp Johnson in high school, she ran around 28-32mph with me alone and 25-28 with someone in the boat. Not too shabby for a 12ft boat. Word to the wise whatever motor you put on it, dolphin fins helped it plane out big time.


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## canadian omc (Jan 2, 2013)

Looking good keep up the good work


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## simbelle (Jan 2, 2013)

Thanks guys. The goal is to at least get it painted before I have to move the 1st of Feb, because it will be spending it's time outside for a while.


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## Gators5220 (Jan 9, 2013)

Comin along man, any new pics? Good luck with the move, I know it's gonna kill ya to leave the old Indian River behind!


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## simbelle (Jan 16, 2013)

Local move just apartment has gotten so expensive that I can rent a house cheaper, plus have a grill. Man I miss a BBQ grill (7yrs), plus work on the boat and car in my driveway. No new pictures been going slow; Will Marine Tex transom holes today and then will have to work for next 3; have Sun and mon off will sand the Tex and hopefully get a coat of Gluvit on the inside. Been pricing out aluminum for floor; going to run 140 to 160 bucks and that's without any front decking or rear bench or the wood, carpet fasteners, glue and every other damn thing! Oh well, knew I could get another boat inbetter condition cheaper before I started! LOL #-o


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## BoatDawg4120 (Feb 12, 2013)

I am also in the Orlando area. I have a boat just like that. I have a question tho. Does the point where the bow V -guard or plate meets the center keel have to be sealed where they meet or did you do that to try and keep water out of there because of other leaks? The one i have is not sealed there and looks to be made that way by the manufacturer. The outer ones on either side of the center keel are also not sealed in the rear.


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## SDHawgs (Feb 12, 2013)

Nice job so far. Sanding and cleaning is always the funnest part. :LOL2: Just get those welds done and then you will be able to start on the fun parts! Good luck!


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## simbelle (Feb 17, 2013)

Living with my sister till the 4th of March. Did get the boat Gluvited on the inside and primed. It's at Cousins gettng the trailor worked on. He extended the tungue 3 ft, welded a couple L risers in the back and mounted the lights on them so thieir not in the water and more visable on the road, also redid the bunks and welded my Harbor fraught jack to the front and a post,bow stop and winch. One of the bearings was shot and he's replacing that and putting on bearing buddies.
Once I get moved I will start work on the floor framing, man I have been racking my brain about it, but I guess I'll just have to get some aluminium channel, and tubing and dive in (slowly). Think I'm just going to pait it Grey.


Not sure what your question is about my bow to keel plating. I did a fiberglass covering and gluited over it because it had a leak in the bow. I found the leak when I ground down the inside and it's covered with 5200 and afew coats of Gluvit. I believe I'm also going to spray the bottom of the inside with truck bed liner up to the side rivet line and then paint over that after I get the floor framing in. No welding was done on this boat. all repairs are with stainless bolts and aluminium channel/plating.


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## BoatDawg4120 (Feb 20, 2013)

On the bottom. Right where the bow nose guard meets the bottom of the boat there is a raided rail there that runs from front to back and on mine i also have one on each side of the center one. In one of you pics it looks like you sealed it up. But if you had a leak that would explain why you sealed it up. I was only asking because mine are not sealed off on the front and back of the rail so water actually could run through it and I didnt know if that was supposed to be that way. 

Mine had a cut in the bow nose guard where someone had taken it out of the back of a truck and just let it slam down on the concrete. Nothing a little JB Stik couldnt fix. I also painted over the Nose guard with bed liner just for that added bit of protection against further damage.


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## simbelle (Feb 20, 2013)

Ya, I was initally going to fiberglass mesh all the seams with G Fex but then only did the bow and a couple areas I knew were leaking. The start of those keel runner things were covered to start with because I was going to double up on the front of them. Don'task mewhy, I have no idea. My bow had a leak so I double meshed the nose of the boat with mesh and G Flex ( works really good could disk sand it down like bondo and mesh; It woudserve as a base in which th use fiberglass if one ever needed to.) Flound the leak when stripped all the paintand caulk from the inside. There was a inch long by 1/8 inch slit in the bow bottom, there was metel under it, but evedently it was still leaking; so Ipainted it wit 5200 let it sett a couple days the put 3 coats of Gluvit over that. I am still going to spray the bottom inside with bed liner. May be over kill, but this boat will see it's fair share of salt water.


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## BoatDawg4120 (Feb 22, 2013)

I figured it was sealed due to it leaking. Mine had a cut about 4 inches long about 6 inches up from where the bow nose gaurd meets the keel runner on the bottom and i used some JB Stik on it which took care of the leak. I did also remove the old caulk from the inside and resealed it with 5200. I plan on sprying bed liner over that as well but used up the last can i had spraying my new transom board before i installed it. What size motor are you planning on putting on? I have almost completely rebuilt my Grandpa's 1955 Evinrude 7.5 Fleetwin Aquasonic and with just me on the boat i have to sit on the middle bench and use my foot to hold the tiller in order for it to completely plane off. Im hoping the addition of trim tabs and a front deck might help that situation. Its a strong little motor and the compression is well within dealer specs for that motor just doesnt want to push over the hump so to say when tryin to plane off. Once i got it planed off sitting on the middle bench it was doing 12.3 mph and i have one of those walk/jogging satelite tracker apps on my phone to prove it.


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## BoatDawg4120 (Feb 22, 2013)

Oh and have you seen the Clermont Chain's Ramps? I know you are moving out here and are somewhat close but didnt know if you have ever been to any of the ramps here. If not i can show you where they are. The one on the south side of Lake Minneola is a fairly new ramp but Ive only just recently used it (starting 2 weeks ago actually) and to be honest its a nice ramp but the idiots who designed it didnt leave anywhere for you to tie a boat off when you launch or load. there two cleats at the end of the dock but the water being down so low you cant really tie to them. I just walk my boat off and pull it about 15ft to the side and beach it when im alone so i can park the truck. the other ramp is off Hull Rd and its not in very good condition. Our water levels here in Lake county are the highest they have been in years thanks to last summers rains and its still about 3ft low from the average lake level. So with the water having gotten that low the ramp at Hull rd got so dry you actually had to back your vehicle onto dried up canal bottom to get the trailer deep enough to float a boat and then you couldnt get out of the canal on either end to get into the lakes cus there were spots on the canal that were dry completely from shore to shore.


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## simbelle (Feb 22, 2013)

No, haven't been to any of the ramps or any of the lakes for that matter..dried up connection canals sure sucks though. Plan on using mine in the intra-coatalal mostly; will prob do a little fresh water fishing though. Boat came with a 15 Hp Sea Horse ( I think) anyway it was made by Chysler 1975 from what I can tell: ran when I bought it, but I haven't run it since December with the moving and all. In storage right now. Moving into my place March 4, at sisters in Winter Haven now.


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## Gators5220 (Feb 23, 2013)

Where are some pics of the work you had done man? I'm thinking of lengthening the trailer tongue on mine too by 3' or so, mostly to make it so my truck doesn't have to be in the lake or river to launch my boat.


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## simbelle (Feb 24, 2013)

I asked my cousin to send them to me on FB has'nt happened yet.


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## BoatDawg4120 (Feb 26, 2013)

Well the connection canals are mostly back up to a level they can be traveled thru even on your heavier ski and pleasure boats now. The water level is higher now than it was last time i used the Hull rd ramp and we still made it out to the lakes on a ski boat then. We hit bottom once and i was on the bow and it thru me into the canal which was about knee deep where i went in lol but managed to keep my beer in my hand so it was all ok. haha.


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## simbelle (Mar 11, 2013)

In my place now, boxes still need unpacking and I won't even talk about the crap in the garage. Drove out to Sanford today to ACME Building Sulpply and bought a mess of aluminium to frame the floor; cost me 80 bucks which is 1/2 of what the retail aluminium place in Orlando wanted for smaller stock; then drove to Oveito to visit my boat and and cousin. picked up a couple wheel bearings and Bearing Buddys from Tractor supply and installed one new bearing (only one was bad, will get to other one later) and the buddies. Sill need to mount bunks and rollers and rewire the lights on the trailer, but at least I did something. Drove 50 miles back home.........without my boat and trailer


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## BoatDawg4120 (Mar 11, 2013)

Ouch. Sanford and Oviedo are a good distance from the clermont area. That really sucks. Hopefully you can get it moved a little closer to where you are staying.


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## simbelle (Mar 28, 2013)

Got the boat in the garage: Pulled the rope and the motor started on the stand so I guess life is good!  Working 6 of next 8 nights and Sunday is Easter and I'm having dinner with girlfriends family. Should be back at it again next Saturday if the girlfriend will let me, if not then Monday [-o< . Pictures to follow (need to get more batteries.) BoatDawg you need to stop by dude.


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## simbelle (Apr 3, 2013)

well here are some quick pics of it in it's new garage. That etching primer said gray, but it sure looks green to me. Piece of aluminum on top is center support for floor bracing. You can see the elevated light post my cousin pick up out at the dump; its off a weight lifting machine.






Top of Transom needs some stiffening up.





Winch my cousin found at the dump and welded up a post for me.




Another view





Side view of boat and trailor at this point. He extended the trailor a little over 3 feet.





Had a couple cans of Rust-Oleum Truck bedliner spray; guess I'll need a few more.





Well that's it for now; I would guess I'm about half way through this mod.


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## simbelle (Apr 5, 2013)

ok, so I'm finally starting the floor framing ( I have been wondering how I was going to do it since I started. Here's what Ive done: 

1) leveled the keel
2) riveted on center/keel floor bracing support
3) attached 1st and last stringer

The rear stringer is 43", the front stringer is 26": there is 6" between them. Does 26 " sound right? I'm going to step up the deck enough for battery storage from the front stringer to about 2' from the bow then step it up again for anchor locker and TM platform, bow light and cleats. Anyway just wanted some one to verify I an at least starting the floor framing right.

Stringer may not be the correct word,but its mthe only one that comes to mind besides floor joist.


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## smackdaddy53 (Apr 5, 2013)

Stringer is what I call it too! 
First of all, did you level the top edge of the gunnel? It looks like your front stringer is lower than the line that runs down both sides of your boat parallel to the gunnel? I would level the sides (gunnels) first, then level the stringers ftom that. Someone else correct me if I am wrong but dont you guys think the top of the boat should be level, not the keel? It looks like the front should be as high as the aluminum brace in the last pic...


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## simbelle (Apr 5, 2013)

That's why only went as far as I did; I wasn't sure if I should go from the top or the keel, but I figured on large ships the keel is laid 1st then everything else is built from there. But I remember when I first got it I was figuring to go from the top and there would be an elevation of the stringers as I went forward. I guess I'll go from top down monday and see if it doesn't look better! #-o


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## smackdaddy53 (Apr 6, 2013)

simbelle said:


> That's why only went as far as I did; I wasn't sure if I should go from the top or the keel, but I figured on large ships the keel is laid 1st then everything else is built from there. But I remember when I first got it I was figuring to go from the top and there would be an elevation of the stringers as I went forward. I guess I'll go from top down monday and see if it doesn't look better! #-o


Imagine how it would float and correlate the floor with that. Good luck!


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## simbelle (Apr 7, 2013)

well starting right now! I think?


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## smackdaddy53 (Apr 8, 2013)

That looks more like it! Before the stringers looked a little low in front. Good job man


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## simbelle (Apr 8, 2013)

Yes it does. Thanks for your help Smackdaddy.


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## smackdaddy53 (Apr 8, 2013)

simbelle said:


> Yes it does. Thanks for your hep Smackdaddy.


mo prob


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## simbelle (Apr 10, 2013)

AS far as I got before having to go back to work. You would think as slow as I am that everything would look just perfect, insted of just good enough!


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## BoatDawg4120 (Apr 15, 2013)

Boat looks to be coming along good. Wont be long and we will be passing by each other on the local lakes.  Hope you get it going soon. Bite is on pretty decent here locally. Spent all moring on little lake harris in Howey and did pretty well. Got back to the ramp about noon and the other guys pulling boats out said they had a very slow day. I must have just been lucky haha.


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## simbelle (Apr 15, 2013)

Thanks dawg. Ya, I hope to be making a bigger dent in it in on my next 6 day stretch of time off. Cut the plywood for outer motor mount and cut the transom down and stuck on a 3/4 x 1/2 aluminium channel across the top edge. Transom is a lot more solid now. Still need to add Transom on bottom brace and 1 X 8 across the top inside transom. I have paint, 2 folding seats and 1 pedestal coming.


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## simbelle (May 2, 2013)

Well, work on the boat has slowed way down. I have 8'of 1/2" plywood of floor cut and laid on the stringers, had to add another stringer up front, because I originally was going to start a raised deck at 7'. Have to figure out just exactly what and how I'm going to do with the front of the boat as far as framing, decking and such :? . Had a plan to start, but the battery height has thrown me a curve ball and getting some distance between the two pedestal seat and placing the bait well have added to my dilemma. Looks like I'm going to be dropping the battery down onto a 3/4" plywood flooring then will the sides will be about 6" to a raised section were my front seat will set; This section will stop and raise up to the top of the gunnels for the last 2 feet. At least that's what I'm thinking. All this is just me thinking out loud, because I doubt few people if any are actually following this post. 

I am also, confused at just how to fasten the plywood deck to the aluminum stringers and not have screws or rivets showing everywhere. I read some posts on another site, actually a couple sites about using rivets and I can see were 3/16 x 3/4 rivets would work well. However, I still am wondering about the final aesthetics of the thing.


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## Berto (May 3, 2013)

your project is looking good.


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## Gators5220 (May 4, 2013)

Lookin good, time to get that flooring down and get some fishin in!


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## simbelle (May 5, 2013)

Thanks Gator! Your right about that, moneys running low...well it's always low. Car maintenance is due. Girl friend has honey do list and really I'm just tired I think. Already have more money in the boat than it worth, but I knew that a long time ago. Have paint, pedestals and seats just setting here in boxes. Need to do some fairing in where I patched holes around the top of the boat. I know it's just an old tin boat, but since I have so much in it already and I know it would bother me to look at it all the time, I'm going to try to smooth them out the best I can. This is no time to get in a hurry. Oh, I've Think I'm going to buy a new Tahatsu 9.8 electric start too. Know anyone who wants a 15hp Sea King?


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## simbelle (May 9, 2013)

Started the decking, have since replaced the 2 x 10 with a 1 x 10.


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## Gators5220 (May 9, 2013)

No sir I do not, but you shouldn't have too much trouble getting rid of it. Sad truth about boats is you'll always have more money in them, then you can get outa them. They are a place to burn up some cash brother! But all things that are cool do that.


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## simbelle (May 27, 2013)

The pedestals I bought were in my opinion too high once the seats were on then ( seats add 3") and my lady is kind of short and her legs would have never touched the deck; so I am dropping the base down below the deck. This will also provide more stability I think. shortened it 4" in the front and a couple in the back. will have to cut hole in the deck, but I got that covered. Had to remove some stringers to fasten the angles so I took this opportunity to paint the bottom with bed liner while some of them were out of the way.


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## simbelle (Jun 6, 2013)

Primed the inside with RustOleum white oil-based primer, then coated with 2 coats RustOleum Smoke grey paint (will add another coat once the decking is complete); Also pictured is the front seat and pvc tubing that will be used to run electrical wiring. (will at some point put on a Tohatsu 9.8 electric start motor to replace my Sea King 15hp).





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## simbelle (Jun 9, 2013)

More stuff:


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## wwcenturion (Jun 9, 2013)

Those seats look comfy!


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## simbelle (Jun 10, 2013)

Ya, thanks, that was my thought when I ordered them; when I get out on the water, I tend to stay there for a while!


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## Gators5220 (Jul 7, 2013)

Gettin any fishin done in that ring buddy? I hope you got a couple tight lines with her!


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## simbelle (Jul 9, 2013)

No actually been working on girlfriends house on what little time I have off. She has some projects that need to get done: but I am going to work on the boat today: Maybe finish the final fitting of the deck. The previous deck had some 3/4 inch gaps, so I re-cut a new piece of plywood. Then of coarse I have to seal and carpet it. I'm a little uncertain of how far to put the rear seat from the transom, because the Tahatsu motor I will end up with has a longer handle ( guess I should go to a dealer and measure it.). 

In answer to your question, no no rishing and as a matter of fact I checked the other day an my liecence was expired, have to get another. I like to fish the intracoastal waterway more than fresh water, but your right I need to get out and fish somewhere.


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## simbelle (Jul 9, 2013)

finally the 1st coat of sealant on the deck. I think I can see a light at the end of the tunnel!


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## Gators5220 (Jul 14, 2013)

The most important thing in life, is not to work so much you don't enjoy it! Haha...go wet a line and remember what is most important.


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## nctlspider (Jul 14, 2013)

I'm impressed! Stick with it, that light at the end of the tunnel is definitely within your reach, simbelle. I'm just starting on a very similar project. Thanks for the inspiration!


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## simbelle (Jul 15, 2013)

Your right. Think I go to Sebastian Inlet tomorrow or Wednesday


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## simbelle (Jul 19, 2013)

Well I gave up on trying to find a cooler that's just the right size to use as a livewell and ordered one from https://www.customlivewells.com/Pages/default.aspx. Will take a couple weeks for it to get here so, I decided to off loaded the boat and paint the trailer. That will probably take me a couple weeks! LOL


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## simbelle (Jul 19, 2013)

Now that I have it apart I'm wouldering if T really need to paint it other than galvanizing the add ons and painting the hubs black. :-k


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## nctlspider (Aug 4, 2013)

I'd save that kind of thing for when the fishing is bad.... so extreme heat or extreme cold ( well, Florida cold). I guess by now, you've probably already made up your mind though. What else is left on your list?


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## simbelle (Aug 13, 2013)

waiting on a live well I ordered, but not sure if I'll even use because of the wieght. Put it back in water for float/balance check to see were I'm at. Wanted to get a 9.8 motor, but may have to go with a 6hp (hopefully no smaller, even though I never go real far). If I use live well, plumbing, wiring, carpet small box on back and maybe another upfront Paint outside ( Thats what I'm excited about)...Got last 2 weeks of Aug off. Hope to finish or get darn close. Oh, Winter time and cold weather hold some of the best fishing and bigger fish down here onthe East Coast's Intraacoastal Waterway.


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## nctlspider (Aug 13, 2013)

Went out this weekend- cou [-o< [-o< ldn't catch much of anything for all the sharks trying to get in the boat. Can't wait for cooler weather on the gulf side either! https://www.tinboats.net/forum/posting.php?mode=reply&f=21&t=28318#


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## simbelle (Aug 14, 2013)

Ya, that's never good. Haven't been fishin since last summer inMarco Islands. Girlfriend's brother has a 26 ft Aquasport and a couple time shares down there. Brought home pounds of red grouper. Didn't go this year. The fish is great, but not really my kind of fishing. Partial to the thrill of a big trout, redfish or Snook on 12 lb test.


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## simbelle (Sep 2, 2013)

Still hitting here and there, just got off 2 weeks vacation and relaxed and even fished a little> will post pictures again when I get something done..probably soon...if anyone is following this. LOL


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## Gators5220 (Oct 20, 2013)

Lookin good buddy, what did you end up doing with the trailer?


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## simbelle (Oct 21, 2013)

Painted it white. Got side tracked with work and on-line gaming. Off the game and will be back on the boat will try to get some pictures. Right now it's exactly the way I left it. My family is convinced I will never finish it and just keep finding thinks to do on it. Maybe, I hope not: come November it will be a year since I started on it. How ridiculous is that? Well only thing I can say is...if I work on it when I don't feel like it, then it's WORK.


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## Gators5220 (Oct 21, 2013)

Ya I hear you, my project has been at a standstill too, but 65 hours a week at a hospital will do that. If and when I get a day off though, I've figured out how to catch some big bass in the greater Gainesville area on 4lb test to boot!


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## simbelle (Oct 23, 2013)

I like that light line also: but my area is more like like 5 to 20 lb snook or redfish on 10 lb test with an occasional lunker trout thrown in and some mangrove snapper on the side!


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## Gators5220 (Oct 25, 2013)

Ya I wish I was back in Vero for some of that!


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## Gators5220 (Nov 10, 2013)

Did you use spray in bed liner or did you use roll in bed liner in those pics that the floor looks black? Did this help with any rivets leaking? I have some bed liner I'm going to use for mine, and just curious what if any prep work you had to do for it?


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## simbelle (Nov 12, 2013)

Cleaned it with acetone; I had 2 cans of spray I used early on all the bottom rivets before I started the stringers, then used a can of roll on/brush on: then painted over it with grey RustOleum. Not sure how much it helped with leaks. I had it sealed pretty well prior to that with 5200 and 2 coats Gluvit inside and out, sure it helps though. Mostly did it to protect hull from any hooks and lead weights that fall down there from causing a reaction with the aluminium.


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## simbelle (Nov 12, 2013)




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## nctlspider (Nov 12, 2013)

Looks good! Wish I had a little trailer like that. Be a whole lot easier to pull with my civic.


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## simbelle (Nov 18, 2013)

Boat is all primed and bottom is painted with 2 coats Pettit's Easypoxy.


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## rscottp (Nov 18, 2013)

Looks good! You are getting close to the end.


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## simbelle (Nov 19, 2013)

Thanks, I've been close to the end for a while. LOL: Anyone else would have probably been done months and months ago. If looking at it, thinking and dreaming about it would count then I would have been done long ago also. Going to hold off on painting the top till I flip it over and get what ever I am able to do about bow and stern compartments completed. Not sure what weight and room will allow. Anyway, just waiting to see what holes I may have to put in it. :?


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## Gators5220 (Dec 13, 2013)

That trailer and boat both are lookin good bud, I really like what you did with the trailer...


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## simbelle (Dec 17, 2013)

Thanks Gator; I have the boat painted, but thought that I need to trim the floor some in a few places to make room for the carpet. So I have to do that and reseal it then apply the carpet, mount and wire the bait well and bilge. I'm thinking I run so little at night that I will just get portable lights if I think I need them.


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## Gators5220 (Dec 17, 2013)

What kinda paint did you use on the trailer? I might try to paint mine as well, they way you have yours done is a lot cleaner then just raw metal. Looks real purty... =D> =D> =D> =D>


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## simbelle (Dec 25, 2013)

I used RustOleum Marine paint and primer; spayed over the Galvanized first with another primer forgat what it was called something 123 from Lowes, but you could use whatever. axel and hubs are just Flat black rustoleum over rustoleon rust stop primer


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## RStewart (Dec 25, 2013)

This is a really nice build. I like the aluminum framing.


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## huntinfool (Dec 26, 2013)

Lookin good.


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## simbelle (Dec 26, 2013)

Thanks guys, got it paint, but that made every dent and ding of last 40 yeas really stand out. LOL, will post more pick when I get a chance.


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## Gators5220 (Dec 30, 2013)

Almost done on the old boat huh bud?


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## simbelle (Dec 31, 2013)

Ya, but it's a 12 foot boat I was almost done when I started; So, when do you reck'in it will see the water again! :LOL2:


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## Gators5220 (Jan 4, 2014)

Hopefully soon? Isn't that the reason to have a boat lol.


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## simbelle (Jan 13, 2014)

here's the paint job. Still looks like an old tin boat! LOL Trimmed the floor to allow for carpet; have to reseal


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## rscottp (Jan 13, 2014)

It looks classy to me.


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## simbelle (Jan 13, 2014)

Thanks rscottp: obviously you are the true class of Martha's Vineyard! 8)


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## smackdaddy53 (Jan 13, 2014)

Very nice job!


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## Gators5220 (Jan 14, 2014)

Man that paint came out sweet, was that steel flex or just regular paint?


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## simbelle (Jan 15, 2014)

Thanks; It's Pettit EasyPoxy Topside Paint: inside is RustOleum


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## jcupo6 (Jan 16, 2014)

Boat looks great! I really like the aluminum stringer system, I might steal that idea :wink:


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## simbelle (Jan 16, 2014)

Thanks jcupo6; If I had it to do again I might have laid the front and rear stringer and maybe one in the middle and run 2 or 3 length wise to save work, wt (not much) and time. :|


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## Gators5220 (Jan 17, 2014)

Petit EasyPoxy is basically like another version of SteelFlex? How hard was that to apply? I'm thinking of doing either SteelFlex or Petit EasyPoxy on the outside of my boat eventually.


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## simbelle (Jan 18, 2014)

I'm not sure about that, because I don't know Steelflex; I know it's a Polyuthane based paint; I goes on great and is pretty self-leveling. I rolled and tipped it ( accually I brushed most of it on and it din't leave a single brush mark ): didn't take much and the gloss is good.


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## Gators5220 (Jan 21, 2014)

How hard did it come out? I'm wondering if it chips or if it's as durable as steel flex turns out to be.


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## simbelle (Jan 22, 2014)

Again, knowing nothing about Steelflex I could not say. According to the adds it's a durable Paint. Don't think it's in the same classification as Steelflex, unless Steelflex is classified as a paint; But as a paint, I guess it all depends on your prep and primer. I have read were it has lasted for years and retained it'd gloss; However, I guess that would depend on use and care. I think your question may better be answered by someone else as a New Topic.

If I remember right I did hear about Steelflex being used the same way Glovit is used, I could be totally wrong though. I used Glovit as my base inside and out prior to any paint or primer.


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## Gators5220 (Mar 30, 2014)

Hey man, guess who's moving back to Vero Beach, I landed a job at the VNA Hospice there. I couldn't be more happy with the fishing in the Indian River and I have a couple of really good bass holes as well. Let me know if you ever come to town we should hit the lake sometime.


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## Bigwrench (Mar 30, 2014)

Just joined , really enjoyed reading through your project post. Got some great ideas from it , thanks for such a detailed post.


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## Gators5220 (May 24, 2014)

You been gettin out at all sir?


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## MmmFishing (May 26, 2014)

The floor bracing looks great, very nice work. I love the documentation of the steps, I need to do this to my boat and your photos are a gigantic help!


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## Tinocker (Aug 23, 2015)

I literally joined this site today, read your tracking on this boat and all you did, turned out really nice. Just bought a 12' Lowe for my fish hungry young son and will be moving forward on transforming it into a true fishing boat for him. Your trials have given great advice and I hope to do the same for all, My one advantage is I am a sheet metal worker by trade and grew up building boats with my father so hopefully all i have learned will help in this build. I will be tig welding most adds to this one along with bucking some rivits. Thanks for the pics and step by step, Now catch some big ones!


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## Johnny (Aug 29, 2015)

even tho it is a couple of years old, still a nice read.....
too bad the photos didn't survive.
This thread has been viewed almost 18,000 times since December of 2012 !!!!

Just wanted to mention that this is why we like to see your LOCATION
in your profiles . . . sort of brings it all together when reading the nice builds.

I am in Winter Garden . . . about 10 miles from Clermont and the Chain of Lakes.
we are so Blessed with being in the Heart and Soul of the world's best BASS COUNTRY ever.
Cheers to all. Please add your location to your profiles.


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