# Alumacraft 1648 NCS electric reservoir boat



## MD_Electric_Bass (Oct 12, 2016)

Hey everyone, first time posting here on tinboats. I've gotten a lot of info and ideas from the builds that have been posted previously. I recently picked up my first boat to build out for the electric only reservoirs here in Maryland. Like the title of the post says, it is an Alumacraft 1648 NCS Jon. I wanted something stable and comfortable for my daughters and wife while also being a solid fishing boat for my dad, brother, friends and I. 







My current plans for the floor and decking are pretty simple. An extension off the existing front deck, 6 feet of floor laid on top of the ribs(with 1'1/2 polyethylene foam cut to size between ribs for floor stability and flotation), and another casting deck on the back. I only plan on doing 3 hatches, 2 in the front deck, 1 for batteries and the other for tackle, and one on the back to keep access to the plug. I'm planning to use .100 aluminum for the floor, .125 for the decks and aluminum angle framing. Planning on most, if not all pop-rivets, as I don't plan on drilling into the hull at all below the water line. Also want to do a small side console. Carpet or Hydroturf covering it all. 

I also recently purchased a used Ray 48 volt electric outboard motor. It's in great shape and ran great during the testing, but I am debating if there is anything I should do maintenance-wise in order to ensure the outboard continues to function properly into the future.






The wiring is all sound and something that I can refresh if needed. The previous owner ran this as a 36 volt system with 3 12volt batteries in series. The manufacturer stated that the motor was produced as a 48 volt system, as all the speed controllers are rated 48 volt, PMC is 36-48volt and the motor itself labeled 36 volt(she also compared similar aged motors and the 48 volt systems with GE motors were labeled 36 volt...). I was planning to use this outboard as intended, with 8 6 volt batteries wired in series, using the 48 volt charger it came with.

I look forward to sharing my build with you all and welcome any and all advice and suggestions. This is my first boat and first build so Im sure there are things I haven't thought about or considered. Please help if you see me veering off course or see a better way of doing things. THANKS!


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## jasper60103 (Oct 13, 2016)

Welcome, MD_Electric_Bass.

Nice setup you have there.
Enjoy!

jasper


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## wmk0002 (Oct 13, 2016)

I have the exact same hull aside from having a 15" transom. I haven't done much to it and am going in a different direction than you appear to be but you can check it out; link is in my signature. I will be adding a small update here soon so look for it to be bumped to the top in the near future.


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## CedarRiverScooter (Oct 13, 2016)

Would a gas generator be legal? Seems like that would weigh less than 8 6V Lead batteries.


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## MD_Electric_Bass (Oct 13, 2016)

jasper60103 said:


> Welcome, MD_Electric_Bass.
> 
> Nice setup you have there.
> Enjoy!
> ...



Thanks Jasper, its tough to think I'm going to have to wait for spring but it will be worth it!



wmk0002 said:


> I have the exact same hull aside from having a 15" transom. I haven't done much to it and am going in a different direction than you appear to be but you can check it out; link is in my signature. I will be adding a small update here soon so look for it to be bumped to the top in the near future.



I have checked out your boat before on here since its the same hull. I am debating getting the trolling motor mount that you have so I took special interest in that part of your post. All said and done, would you recommend it?



CedarRiverScooter said:


> Would a gas generator be legal? Seems like that would weigh less than 8 6V Lead batteries.



No gas at all on these lakes. Electric only. I've debated trying to get by with 4 12 volt or looking into 8 volt batteries but Im leaning toward doing it right and getting the most run time I can by doing the 6 volt batteries. Part of my reasoning for keeping the floor and decking simple is to attempt to minimize added weight where I can...


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## Al U Minium (Oct 13, 2016)

48 volts DC can be very dangerous. We numb around with 12 and sometimes 24VDC so when the voltage goes higher so does the chance for severe burns and even death. It only takes 0.1 amps to stop the human heart. Break the skin in a cut and a 9vdc battery can kill you. If you short out 36-48VDC the sparks can be just like an arc welder. 

Make it as safe as you can:
Use only pressure type connectors - no solder
Keep batteries in non conductive battery boxes with secure covers
Use fuses in non corroding heavy duty fuse holders
Circuit breakers are less reliable at DC in preventing arc over
Never reach across battery terminals or connectors with body parts
Don't mix lights and electronics with your motor batteries
Buy a really good quality main power switch rated for the DC Voltage and able to stop an arc flash over from a short in the system
Turn it on only when running the motor
Do not try to make any repairs while under way or while the boat is in the water

Electric can be safe and quiet, but please don't cut corners with this set up


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## wmk0002 (Oct 13, 2016)

MD_Electric_Bass said:


> wmk0002 said:
> 
> 
> > I have the exact same hull aside from having a 15" transom. I haven't done much to it and am going in a different direction than you appear to be but you can check it out; link is in my signature. I will be adding a small update here soon so look for it to be bumped to the top in the near future.
> ...



I would. It's not rock solid as it has a little bit of twist to it when the trolling motor is turned sideways, however, it is sturdy enough for the 45 lb thrust motor I have. If it was over 55 lbs thrust I'd try to brace it some. I think some fairly thin aluminum sides could be fabbed with a bent flange to fasten to the deck and it would stiffen it up considerably. Alumacraft wants 20-40 bucks for it though so it may also be worth checking out to see if someone could make a stiffer one for you.


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## MD_Electric_Bass (Oct 14, 2016)

Al U Minium said:


> 48 volts DC can be very dangerous. We numb around with 12 and sometimes 24VDC so when the voltage goes higher so does the chance for severe burns and even death. It only takes 0.1 amps to stop the human heart. Break the skin in a cut and a 9vdc battery can kill you. If you short out 36-48VDC the sparks can be just like an arc welder.
> 
> Make it as safe as you can:
> Use only pressure type connectors - no solder
> ...



Thank you for your awesome advice, I really appreciate it. 
I am building a battery compartment under the deck, do you suggest that l still put them in battery boxes if they are secured in their own compartment?
Any specific suggestions on type/brand, sites or stores to purchase from for the fuse, fuse holder and main power switch? I could be completely wrong but I think read information from the manufacturer that stated the motor pulls 75 amps when full throttle, so an 80 amp fuse inline, on the positive lead as close to the battery as possible?

The control box produced by the manufacturer and included with the motor has a key switch for turning on and off power to the motor I plan to use this to turn off the outboard when fishing and using the 24volt Bow mount Trolling motor. But I still want a main inline power switch to be safe.

No lights for now, but once they are, the initial plan is to have them on a dedicated 12 volt battery for electronics, audio, etc.


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## MD_Electric_Bass (Nov 1, 2016)

Small update, front deck/battery compartment framing is done. It is surprisingly solid and probably overkill but I wanted it as strong and solid as could be. I'm really happy with how it turned out. 





















Also, I have decided to make an extension off the back deck too. This will provide a bigger casting deck for the fisher off the back and allows me to divide my batteries for the Ray 48 volt between the two compartments. I was a little worried about having all 8 6 volt batteries up front so this provides flexibility and options to balance the weight out. Hoping to get the back deck and plug/compartment area framed this week/weekend, followed by aluminum sheet and carpet shortly thereafter.

I ended up purchasing 2 7''x 7'' seat bases and 2 13'' economy seat pedestals from Springfield Marine Scratch and Dent. Bases will go on the front and back decks and pedestals will be mounted on the floor, just in front of the back deck extension. Minimal to no scratches and quite discounted so I am happy with the purchase.

I'll post my progress after the weekend.


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## MD_Electric_Bass (Nov 6, 2016)

Back deck extension framed out and about halfway done the plug area framing. Biting the bullet tonight and purchasing the aluminum sheet, console, and seats. This should let me mock up the seating and steering setup so that I can purchase the steering kit with the correct length cable. Took off Thursday and have Friday off so Im hoping to receive/pick-up most of the purchases and get some work done. I'll follow up a week from now with my progress.


Back Deck extension/battery compartments with seat mount mocked up. Might put the base where you see it or on the bench seat, or in the plug area, not sure yet. 











Little bit of improvisation on the framing of the plug area but I think it will work. Ran out of rivets so just need to pick up more and finish up.


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## MD_Electric_Bass (Nov 18, 2016)

Forgot to post my progress from my extended weekend, so here it is now.

Received a lot of items for the build this week: picked up the aluminum sheet for floor and decking, foam for subfloor, seats, pedestals, console, carpet and a couple other items. Was able to get the back deck aluminum cut to size, the main floor notched for the ribs, holes cut for seat bases. 

Did a good bit of mocking the layout to see what length cable I need for the steering kit. Also trying to figure out how best to utilize the console. I don't like where it sits if I try to tie into the rail as it is intended to be used. It's too low, completely off center and looks strange. I'm thinking about cutting legs to size out of aluminum angle so I can get it to sit just as I want it to. In the picture with the console on the front deck, you can see I clamped the piece that is supposed to be an extension of the left side of the console, onto the right side. I may just rivet it as you see it and cut legs to size so its at the right height and can sit directly and comfortably in front of the driver seat.

Foam subfloor and seating








Back Deck




Aluminum sheet floor notched for ribs




Front deck pedestal mount, post and butt seat




Testing out rods on front deck and view of the console. Thinking about getting these for rods on the front deck, the poly rod strap version. Anybody able to recommend or speak to these?





Hoping to get the rest of the aluminum sheet for decking cut to size this weekend, figure out my plan for the console and maybe knock out a couple of the cuts for the hatches. Might also pull the trigger on a trolling motor pedal tray for the front deck.


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## MD_Electric_Bass (Feb 10, 2017)

It's been a while, sooooo many things to update...










I have all framing done, all aluminum sheet for decking and floor is cut to size. just need to rivet down secure to framing and apply carpet.






Hatches have been cut too. I ended up doing 3 hatches in the front and 3 in the back. 2 in the back will be for 8x6V batteries or the outboard, while the other will be for storage and access to the plug. 48v, rated 200A DC rated switch for outboard, just needs to be mounted when I get the batteries in place and wired. I installed some grommets on the metal areas where I plan to route wire underneath the deck. Also installed grommets on top of the deck for any wire needing to run from above to underneath. 






Front hatches for tackle storage and trolling motor/electronics batteries. I cut for standard hatch pulls and have piano hinges cut to size for each hatch, debating on installing gas pistons I bought for the hatches and swapping the standard hatch pulls for locking hatch pulls to keep the lightweight lids closed. Haven't made a final decision on that. 










I purchased the bow mount trolling motor, a Minnkota Maxxum Variable Speed, 70 lb. thrust,42'' shaft. Bought the Alumacraft trolling motor mount from AK McCallum that I saw on wmk0002's post for the same hull. Mocked up the TM and mount.










Bought two Humminbird Helix 9'' depth finders, a side imaging unit for the console and down imaging unit for the bow. Upgraded the stock transducers for the HD side imaging to be mounted on the transom and Down Imaging Wide transducer that is made for mounting to the trolling motor. 






Also bought a Ram Mount for the bow DI unit so it sits a bit higher.






Trolling motor pedal tray ready to be secured after carpet. 










Decided I would put a switch for the Hummininbird units, Nav lights and LED deck lights. Have all the wire run and terminated to the switch for lighting, still need to finish running power wire and terminating/installing in-line fuse connections for power for the Humminbirds. Bought the wrong size in-line fuse holders for the 3 amp fuses recommended for the Humminbirds. 














Also have the seat mounting figured out and implemented. Front deck leaning post mocked and ready, back post just needs holes pre-drilled so that I can install the 1/4''-20 self tappers after carpet, since I don't have access for bolts/nuts for back deck leaning post.










Console is pre-drilled and mocked up for the electric outboard controls, steering wheel/helm/cable. Pre-drilled for SI unit to be mounted on top of the console. Also bought a 48V battery "fuel gauge" that I mocked and drilled (and messed up but won't see that when mounted) for on the console. 






Connection for the console to gunwhale also figured out and close to finished. Working to get it to a point where I can prime, paint and install with a couple screws and rivets after the carpet install. 


















Getting my rods, reels and tackle ready too. Update coming soon with carpet install, prime/paint of console, installation of electronics, TM, lighting, batteries, remaining wiring.


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## stinkfoot (Feb 10, 2017)

Really interested what kind of speed you would get out of this setup. Have you looked at Torquedo motors at all?


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## MD_Electric_Bass (Feb 11, 2017)

stinkfoot said:


> Really interested what kind of speed you would get out of this setup. Have you looked at Torquedo motors at all?



Stink, I consulted a reputable electric boat builder in the area before I bought the Ray 48v and he suggested that, with the hull I have, I wouldn't get more than 5 mph. My hope is that I can simply scoot around at a fairly decent pace(relatively speaking for electric) from point A to point B with the Ray, and then get on the bow TM and rip some lips.

I did look at torqueedos, but I couldn't pass on the deal I got for the Ray. Also couldn't afford a worthwhile torqueedo, so that made the decision easy enough. Maybe my next motor can be one of their "8-10hp" torqueedo electric outboards. The issue with that, for me and my hull, would be the amount of batteries needed. There are alternatives for the batteries like standalone, single, lithium-ion 48/60V batteries that weigh significantly less, but cost something like $5k-10K...


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## hoghunter17 (Feb 13, 2017)

This build is looking great! I actually live in MD and have a boat for the reservoirs as well, this site has been extremely helpful... I just recently purchased a 48v Torqeedo and have to do the install of the batteries and steering console on my boat as well... I am contemplating getting it hooked up professionally or doing it myself, I am not sure where to start so maybe if you share some more updates with how you do yours I can mock that. Any info you have would be great on the wiring/cables.

Good luck on the rest of the build, This boat is going to turn out great

I will be checking back for your updates, Here is my build from last year....

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=39804


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## MD_Electric_Bass (Feb 20, 2017)

hoghunter17 said:


> This build is looking great! I actually live in MD and have a boat for the reservoirs as well, this site has been extremely helpful... I just recently purchased a 48v Torqeedo and have to do the install of the batteries and steering console on my boat as well... I am contemplating getting it hooked up professionally or doing it myself, I am not sure where to start so maybe if you share some more updates with how you do yours I can mock that. Any info you have would be great on the wiring/cables.
> 
> Good luck on the rest of the build, This boat is going to turn out great
> 
> ...



Can't thank you enough for the comments and kind words, much appreciated. I am going to be doing the battery install and steering/console install in the next couple weeks. Anything I can offer to help you out, I am more than willing.

Oh, and I checked out your link for your build from last year... awesome build and slightly envious of that 1852, awesome size hull to start with.


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## MD_Electric_Bass (Feb 20, 2017)

Alright, I have to get a lot done in a short amount of time to be fishing by the time the lakes open on March 1, knocked out the carpet and installation of components over this long weekend.




Floor first.




Front deck next. Decided to install everything(TM, Helix DI w/ RAM mount, pedestal seat base) instead of finishing the back deck carpet...it was getting late.




Back deck carpet finished the next day, clothespins for areas having difficulty getting good adhesion. Pedestal seat base and stern nav light installed.




Seats back in.




Rod saver strap installed and tested.

Still have three "larger" tasks, along with a ton of "small" tasks, to complete before my self-imposed March 1 deadline: 
1) Battery/electrical for the 12V(lights, Humminbirds), 24V(Bow mount TM), and 48V(electric outboard) 
2) clean, prime and paint the console and install the various components applicable to the console
3) Hinge, carpet, install hatch lids. 
Also need to mount the transom tranducer block/mounting plate and the HD SI transducer itself, install the outboard and drill the mounting holes through the transom, mount the 3 bank on-board charger under the front deck somewhere.


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## MD_Electric_Bass (Mar 15, 2017)

Overdue for an update, I've been using every chance I possibly can to get this thing ready for the year. Lots to catch you up on...

Painted the console, installed the console itself and all the components on the console(Helix SI, electric outboard controls, battery fuel gauge, helm, steering wheel)




Paint job is far from perfect but good enough. After cleaning the bare aluminum with denatured alcohol, put down a couple coats of self-etching primer. Let that dry for about an hour, then went at it with the top coat. I used the 4 oz. touch paint can they gave me when I bought the hull. It was just barely enough. If I had more, I think I would sand and put another coat on.

Carpeted and installed hatch lids and hinges. Also connected all my lights and 12v to the 12AH AGM battery I picked up. 




The not so good, and one part that I'm still not exactly thrilled with, is the hatch lids. I had to re-work the front hatch lids. As you can see in the image above, they weren't sitting correctly and too much resistance to open/didn't open far enough. This is a picture after re-doing the front hatches/hinging. I ended up covering the rivets with small circles of carpet, hard to see any difference now unless you know they are there or are looking real hard.




After covering the rivets with carpet cutouts.




Still far from perfect, but functional and little easier for me to accept. I'm already planning my re-working of all the lids come next winter...

Installed the two 12 volt batteries for the 24 volt bow mount MinnKota Maxxum. Also mounted the 3 bank on-board charger under the front deck. For the batteries, I went with 175AH from BassPro that were on sale for $99 each.








Excuse the mess of wiring behind the charger, its since been cleaned up and re-terminated.

Installed the trolling motor Down Imaging Transducer and routed the cable up the TM shaft and through the grommet under the TM mount, to which it then runs straight over to the grommet behind the DI unit itself, with the slack coiled below deck. Also, secured the TM recessed pedal tray now that I'm finished needing access under the front deck for wiring, at least for the time being...









Went and picked up my x8 6volt T-125 Trojan Golf Cart Batteries. These are the highest Amp Hour batteries, 240 AH, I could fit under the back deck extension that was added to house the batteries for the outboard. Anything else was too tall.Thought it was going to be a puzzle fitting them under the deck but it turned out to be quite simple. 









Next step was wiring the 6volts up, in series. Bought my own 4awg cable, tinned copper lugs, heavy duty crimper and heat shrink. Cut each cable to size, crimped and heat shrink each lug. My positive lead supplying 48V has a battery terminal fuse rated for 50 volts and 150 amps. I also have a main cutoff switch, rated for 275 amps continuous, for the 48V bank, that is mounted in the far back compartment. 









Installed the 48V Ray Electric Outboard and the 12 foot steering cable. Cable fit perfectly, exactly the correct length. That said, I ordered the wrong length weeks ago and had to ship it back and get the correct length, but it worked out in the end. The outboard was easy enough to lift and put myself. Tightened down the clamps and then noticed the holes on the back of the mount that are meant for installing through transom bolts, falls exactly where the 1.5'' lip is on the inside of the transom...













The outboard was sitting at a funny angle so I played with the pin adjustment and now have it sitting essentially straight up and down, not with the prop leaning into the bottom of the transom like when I initially mounted it. Does this look like the appropriate position/angle for the outboard?









Last thing completed was getting the fuel gauge wired correctly and working. For the gauge there is a positive and negative lead and a green lead that goes on the battery terminal supplying the 48V's. I initially thought I'd be able to power the gauge off my 12v AGM and just have the green lead going to the 48V positive battery terminal. This was incorrect. I connected the positive and negative lead for the gauge to the terminals on the first battery in the 48v bank and am now getting accurate "fuel" gauge readings.





Last few things to finish:
-Fix my permit/registrations sticker b/c I'm a noob and put them in front of my registration numbers, not behind them.
-Install the transducer mounting plate/board to the transom, then install the HDSI transducer. 
-Hope and pray for better/warmer weather here in Maryland so I can go test her out and...most important of all, go catch some fish!!


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## RiverBottomOutdoors (Mar 17, 2017)

Would love to see a video of this boat in action! Very cool!


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## MD_Electric_Bass (Mar 17, 2017)

RiverBottomOutdoors said:


> Would love to see a video of this boat in action! Very cool!




Hoping to get it out tomorrow or next weekend. I'll try to remember to get some video while I'm out there.


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## stinkfoot (Mar 17, 2017)

MD_Electric_Bass said:


> RiverBottomOutdoors said:
> 
> 
> > Would love to see a video of this boat in action! Very cool!
> ...



And GPS it please! I would like to know how fast it goes.


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## MD_Electric_Bass (Mar 18, 2017)

RiverBottomOutdoors said:


> Would love to see a video of this boat in action! Very cool!



Forgot video during my test run today, but I'll be sure to get some next time out.



stinkfoot said:


> MD_Electric_Bass said:
> 
> 
> > RiverBottomOutdoors said:
> ...




GPS on the Helix DI Unit said 6.0 MPH for top speed, but I was a little hesitant to go full throttle first time out, so may have a little room left for wide open. This was with two people, me and my father-in-law.

I know this sounds like peanuts when you guys are talking about jet boats and all that do 25-30+MPH, but 6.0 MPH for my electric boat was actually better than I expected. I was told by the local professional electric boat builders to expect 4.0 MPH, maybe 5.0 with my hull. 

All in all, the test run was a success.


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## lgpjr49 (Oct 3, 2018)

I know this is an older thread, but I do have a question to ask. When you installed your stern seat did you do anything for additional support for the base? Or is it just attached to the bench? I ask because on my older boat I did that originally. But there was so much torque when you leaned back in the seat I was afraid that the seat base was going to rip up the aluminum on the bench seat. So I ended up cutting a hatch into and adding some bracing underneath the base and aluminum for extra support. Has it held up over time and not cause problems or have you had any issues with it?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


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## wmk0002 (Oct 22, 2018)

lgpjr49 said:


> I know this is an older thread, but I do have a question to ask. When you installed your stern seat did you do anything for additional support for the base? Or is it just attached to the bench? I ask because on my older boat I did that originally. But there was so much torque when you leaned back in the seat I was afraid that the seat base was going to rip up the aluminum on the bench seat. So I ended up cutting a hatch into and adding some bracing underneath the base and aluminum for extra support. Has it held up over time and not cause problems or have you had any issues with it?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk



I'm not the OP, but I have the same hull. I mounted straight to the bench. There is 3/4" plywood underneath along with another layer of aluminum. Long sheet metal screws that go through the alum/wood/alum will hold it securely. It does flex a little more than the base on the front though....I believe the plywood in the rear does not extend all the way across the bow and is not secured like in the front. When I initially cut the middle hole for the seat base, the plywood underneath had some play and could be shifted in any direction maybe 1/2".


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