# Pontoon floats?



## whitetailhntr (Jun 20, 2016)

Well I just received a call that said my rusted out toon cannot be fixed. Does anyone know of a good place to purchase a single toon or have plans to build a new one? Any input would be great.


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## Johnny (Jun 20, 2016)

Hunter - where are you from ??
do you just want to buy locally?
or will you travel - or have them shipped?
what size do you need ?
and when you say "rusted out" - what is rusted ??

There are several here in Central Florida on C/L 
and my cousin has one for sale that is just the
two floats and deck. (no trailer).
and all aluminum !!! no rusted parts.


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## whitetailhntr (Jun 20, 2016)

Iowa, ill post pics of the repair needed


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## whitetailhntr (Jun 20, 2016)




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## whitetailhntr (Jun 20, 2016)

They said the rust is too bad too repair


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## Johnny (Jun 20, 2016)

aaahhhhhhh you have STEEL tanks !!!

well - I see these car guys on TV cut most of a car to pieces
and weld in new patches . . . 
maybe you need to find another welder ?? get a 2nd opinion.
OR - convert your rig to all aluminum.

I have only seen aluminum pontoons - never seen a steel one.


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## lovedr79 (Jun 21, 2016)

same here. i have only seen aluminum ones. from the pic that doesnt look too bad. i would take to another welder to see what they say.


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## Johnny (Jun 21, 2016)

also - second question - - - is that hole on the top or bottom of the float ?

*in my world - - - *

if it is on the top - and you want to be "economical" about it - just to make
it last a few more seasons, get a piece of 1/6" steel plate from a Big Box Store,
scrap yard, or where ever and cut a patch 1" larger for the over lap.
use some waterproof caulking and sheet metal screws or rivets and fix it yourself.
if it is on the BOTTOM, you could still do the same patch, just being more cautious
in the fitment of the patch, priming and painting...... and 3M-5200 sealer/caulk.
and no, _IMHO_, screw heads on a pontoon float would not impair speed or operation.

and if you don't have the torch or welder, you would be surprised at just how quick 
a 4" angle grinder with a metal cut-off wheel can slice through thin metal !!!
and 1/16" sheet metal is fairly easy to form by hand in its cold state.

do you have a photo of your boat prior to taking it apart ???
am curious as to the layout of it.


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## whitetailhntr (Jun 21, 2016)

Yea ill post some pics


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## whitetailhntr (Jun 22, 2016)

Can I put 5200 right on the grinded edge?


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## Johnny (Jun 22, 2016)

*"Can I put 5200 right on the grinded edge?"*
yes, of course - AFTER the patch is complete and securely
fastened into place, primed, then the sealant goes on.
3M-5200 is not structural - it is an adhesive caulk used for waterproofing.

there are _MANY_ very talented metal workers here on this forum !!!!
some, like myself, would not hesitate to mix/match materials to get the
job done. If a large gaping hole is on the top, I would either use
steel skin, aluminum or even 1/8" PVC sheet just to keep the rain water out.
on the bottom, of course, it has to be more structurally sound and watertight.
also, IMO, there is no such thing as "non fixable" metal...... I have worked on too many
car and truck bodies to know that. It is like surgury - cut back all the dead tissue
and apply clean grafts and dress the wound - just that simple.
if this task is not passing the test of your welders, maybe it is time to switch to aluminum floats.

The gallery can only give advice after knowing all the facts.
such as - is the big hole on the top or bottom
photos of how it was mounted to the frame
what are your expectations after the patch
what kind of waters are you in ?? lake, river or white water rafting.
rocks or sand - is it in the water all the time ????
stuff like that, can offer you more accurate feedback.
personally, I have learned to prep the metal and prime before any kind of sealant.


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## whitetailhntr (Jun 22, 2016)

The hole is on the bottom. Will mostly use it on a small river to float around on it


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## whitetailhntr (Jun 22, 2016)




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## whitetailhntr (Jun 22, 2016)

Heres where I'm at with it


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## Johnny (Jun 22, 2016)

- wow - 
are you going to do the patching yourself ?
you are almost to the point of it being more costly
to repair it vs replacement.
there is no reason for the steel skins not to work.
if you have access to a sandblaster, that might be
a good idea to identify other areas that are bad.
some good quality steel primer and caulk the seams
and you would be good to go.


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## whitetailhntr (Jun 23, 2016)

Yea I will be doing the work, one question I have is should I remove the plate and run a bead of 5200 around the hole and then fasten it down or just caulk the edges? Or should I use a gasket making compound underneath the plate edges and then apply the 5200?


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## Johnny (Jun 23, 2016)

my personal experience with silicones and 3m-5200 is that
it actually promotes corrosion on ALUMINUM.
on steel, I have no personal experience. The Permatex automotive
"non hardening" gasket maker seems like the most logical choice. (good thought)
*Dale H* often recommends the *West Systems 650 G-Flex* that may work the best.
https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=40954
then, after you get it all buttoned up, do your own determination
of "will it work like this" - or - CLEAN all the Permatex off the outside
seams then apply the 5200.
I would use the round head screws vs the hex head. Painter over, they will last.


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## whitetailhntr (Jun 23, 2016)

Johnny said:


> my personal experience with silicones and 3m-5200 is that
> it actually promotes corrosion on ALUMINUM.
> on steel, I have no personal experience. The Permatex automotive
> "non hardening" gasket maker seems like the most logical choice. (good thought)
> ...



Who makes the flexible epoxy?


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## Johnny (Jun 23, 2016)

*West Systems* 650 G-Flex Epoxy


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## whitetailhntr (Jun 23, 2016)

Johnny said:


> *West Systems* 650 G-Flex Epoxy



Will this work as a good gasket maker and sealant for the edges or just gasket maker?


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## Johnny (Jun 23, 2016)

I don't know - never used it.
Maybe *DaleH* can shed some light on it if you send him a PM.


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## whitetailhntr (Jun 23, 2016)

Might use both


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## whitetailhntr (Jun 27, 2016)

Any reason too not use 100% silicon? Had to get it out of the shop at my buddies place so we threw silicone on the plates to form a gasket before he screwed them down. I trimmed the excess off the edges and plan on sealing all edges with 3m 5200.


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## whitetailhntr (Jun 27, 2016)




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## whitetailhntr (Jun 27, 2016)




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## whitetailhntr (Jun 27, 2016)

Ttt


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## Johnny (Jun 27, 2016)

can you stand it on its end vertical ?
I was thinking that if you can fill it with water
to check for leaks - safety in the forefront as
to securing it in place, then, siphon the water out.

just a thought - - - patch looks great, btw


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## whitetailhntr (Jul 4, 2016)

5200 going on tomorrow


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## dootech (Jul 13, 2016)

Weld it


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