# do i need this



## clarego (Aug 19, 2011)

can i remove this? Im fairly new to boating i have a 1988 Mercury classic 50 45hp never messed with this type of oil tank i always mixed never owned a boat with one of these


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## bulldog (Aug 19, 2011)

I do not know your motor but - that looks like an oil tank for an oil injected 2 stroke motor. If you were to remove it, 1) you would have to disconnect the oil injection system and 2) you would have to mix your fuel and oil from here on out.


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## TNtroller (Aug 19, 2011)

at one time the actual oil injection on some motors were not that reliable, would break down/stop working and in turn, no oil in the mix, and ended up burning some pistons and rings based on various rumors/statments I have read. Which motors/models/manufacturers, I don't know, just heard the rumors. Google your motor and you may find out it has a reliable version, or you may find out otherwise. My 04 60 merc 2stroke has a mechanical oil mix with the tank, and have never had a problem. If I remember right, the mechanical versions are more reliable than the electrical versions.


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## clarego (Aug 20, 2011)

if i were to remove it anyone know how ? its a 1988 classic mecury 50 45 hp


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Aug 20, 2011)

If you don't get an answer here try the merc forum on https://www.iboats.com


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## Slypike (Aug 20, 2011)

I had a 94 Evinrude with oil injection that had tons of problems. The oil injection never worked right. 4 powerheads in the same year. As soon as I came off of the break in period where you mix oil in the gas, BOOM there went another head. I was on a first name basis with one of the DM's from OMC at the time. OMC ended up giving me a upgrade to a 115 faststrike and when I had my dealer install it we both opted to remove the oil injection. I mixed oil for the next 5 years and never had another problem.


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## richg99 (Aug 20, 2011)

I've had both...auto injection and hand mixed. I blew up a powerhead on a 150 Evinrude back in the mid 90's..when such systems were not very reliable. 

Presently, I have an injection system on my current 2004 40 hp Johnson and am happy with it. I had it checked out by my very trusted mechanic of 15 years and he said it works great. He works on Johnsons and Evinrudes and knows what he is talking about. 

All that said, if I had 1988 system, I'd research how to pull it out and then hand-mix the oil. 
( Iboats suggested above is a good place)
regards, Rich


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## clarego (Aug 20, 2011)

thanks trying to find something iboats has it listed with a bunch of extra parts .. im going to get a better look at her today


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## richg99 (Aug 20, 2011)

This article might help...Rich

https://www.nitroowners.com/projects/VRO_the_removal.htm


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## clarego (Aug 21, 2011)

the only thing that i can actually determine after looking at this oil thing is it is just a mixer. one side looked as though the fuel mixed at one side and the other holds oil. the oil side it looks as though it is has an add oil sensor. (thoughts ?)

how important is it to have a inline fuel filter? i used to use just the treatment ? it supposedly got rid of the water and ethanol

anyone have a manual for this engine that can help a new boater determined [-o< if my calculations are correct ?


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## Loggerhead Mike (Aug 21, 2011)

Fuel filter is very important its the only thing keeping trash from your carb. Even if your tank is clean you still get trash from the fuel pumps

Fuel treatment doesn't remove anything it helps keep the fuel molecules from separating. Pm Jim about your outboard manual, I thought I saw a post where he had manuals in pdf format?


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## nomowork (Aug 22, 2011)

Interesting topic. I have a 96 Merc that has the oil tank under the cowling. I'm also going to look at the possibility of removing the tank and just premix the gas/oil.


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## ohiobass (Aug 22, 2011)

being it's an 88, that old of a motor, I would eliminate the oil injection, and pre mix 64:1 (2 ounce of oil every gallon of gas)
I know! supposed to go 50:1, but not really necessary! 
Most outboards can run 100:1, but manufaturers want to protect their but, against people who can't measure correctly, and just state that a 50:1 ratio is what is needed. :wink:

Do you actually think that oil injection outboards run 50:1???
NOPE! 
They run about 70-100:1 at idle, and then they adjust from there, according to rpms. 8)

if ya do nothing but "wot", then go 50:1, but if you vary alot on speed/rpms, I'd go 64:1. 8)


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## clarego (Aug 22, 2011)

im hopefully going to try her out tomorrow got a universal fuel filter. im going to leave the sensor on and go from there like i said i do not think it is electric so i should ber alright worst could happen i here beeps as long as its oiled right. i know i had a Yamaha the mechanic where i got it from said to run it 100/1 ill start with 50 to one if she dont beep im might try going a little higher rather have more oil then to less !


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## clarego (Aug 22, 2011)

duuuuuuuuuuuuh #-o #-o #-o what is wot :?: im new


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## ohiobass (Aug 22, 2011)

clarego said:


> duuuuuuuuuuuuh #-o #-o #-o what is wot :?: im new




:lol: "wot"................."WIDE OPEN THROTTLE" :wink:


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## ohiobass (Aug 22, 2011)

clarego said:


> i know i had a Yamaha the mechanic where i got it from said to run it 100/1 ill start with 50 to one if she dont beep im might try going a little higher rather have more oil then to less !



I wouldn't recommend 100:1 [-X 
My 1986 6hp Johnson, that i just bought yesterday says 100:1 ratio right on the side of the motor, but the previous owner pointed out that he always ran 50:1, which was good news to me.
Like i said in my last post, I actually like a 2oz oil per gallon ratio, which again, makes it a 64:1 ratio. That's enough to lubricate well, but at the same time, will keep plugs from fowling, and internal parts from getting too carboned up.
Even better, run about an ounce of Seafoam per every 2 gallons of gas in her too! :wink:


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## fender66 (Aug 22, 2011)

clarego said:


> duuuuuuuuuuuuh #-o #-o #-o what is wot :?: im new



Wide Open Throttle.

I asked the same question when I was new. Questions are only stupid if you don't ask them. :mrgreen:


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## clarego (Aug 24, 2011)

i removed the plug seemed to work then trouble so set it back to the orginal Autoblend Tank same results the primer bulb is sucking flat [-o< i did get her going(loved it for the whole 3 minutes she was moving!!!!!!!) but now i have this problem and now lost, had all air tanks open auto blend auto and for the tank 

i have two metal tanks are there filters in it ? only used one 

could something else be creating this ?


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## richg99 (Aug 24, 2011)

Only way the bulb would be sucked flat is if air couldn't get in from its outer end.

Any chance that you have the hose reversed, so that the one-way valve is working against you?

If that isn't it....can you borrow a hose from a fellow boat owner (same make) and substitute the different hose?

OR....Can you test your hose by putting some gasoline into an open container, and pumping it out the other end? (BE CAREFUL) You will have to hold the little shaft on the fitting in to allow fuel to flow. That shaft is pressed in by the connection piece on the motor itself in a normal operation. 

Rich


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## Zum (Aug 24, 2011)

May be even simpler...
Is the vent open on your gas tank;lets air in?
Sounds like it will run,if fuel can keep coming.


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## richg99 (Aug 24, 2011)

Yea...but he said he "had all tanks open". I presumed that meant open... so that no vents were blocked. Bet it is something simple. Hope so. Rich


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## clarego (Aug 25, 2011)

thanks guys its a lot easier to look at out of the water im going to hopefully check today i had all vents open that i know of hopefully its just kinking somewhere when i apply gas


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## richg99 (Aug 25, 2011)

Not common,...but...I have read of the inside of fuel lines collapsing after long term exposure to heat. 

Also, the new ethanol-added-gasoline can really do a job on them. I had to replace my hose and bulb shortly after Ethanol gas was added to all of our local pumps. Rich


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## Zum (Aug 25, 2011)

Also(maybe) the vent on the tank could be messed up,not letting air in.
Take the cap right off and see if that helps.
Are they old metal tanks?
Maybe theres crap in the filter leaving the tank(if there is one).


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## clarego (Aug 26, 2011)

i added a new bulb and line tested yester could not get to full wot i added a small fuel cleaner and had her in a 50 gallon drum (seemed to work) [-o< have to take her out again maybe when the hurricane hits lol i might be able to go down the rd with it :shock:


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## richg99 (Aug 26, 2011)

Just a thought....you may or may not be chasing the right issue or solution. 

Outboard motors almost all have a "protect mode" automatically set up. The "protect or guardian mode" kicks in when the engine is not getting something right. i.e. not enough water to cool; not enough oil in the fuel; something blocked, etc. Guardian or Protect mode allows the engine to run at partial throttle to get you home, but won't go WOT until the problem is corrected.

I did a quick Google search and found this paragraph for a newer model Merc.

"After your Mercury outboard goes into "guardian" mode protection, do you have to erase that code after fixing the problem?
captbone posted 09-07-2005 08:59 PM ET (US) 
To erase it on your Smartcraft system you don't have to have it reset at the dealer or mechanic. It will do it on its own. *If you go into guardian mode for over-heat, over-rev, high vent, low oil and then fix the problem, the system will be back to normal and you should be fine. Just my 2 cents"*

As you can see, there a a number of things that can cause a motor not go into WOT. I have no idea which one might apply to you. 

Rich


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## clarego (Aug 29, 2011)

taking her out today wish me luck


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## Captain Ahab (Aug 29, 2011)

clarego said:


> duuuuuuuuuuuuh #-o #-o #-o what is wot :?: im new



Wide Open Throttle



One thing to consider before removing the oil mixture apparatus is that some engines employ a variable mix ratio that changes depending on the RPMs. At high RPMs you need to use more (I believe) oil to fuel ratio so that injection unit will change your ratio automatically. This allows for better performance then a simple pre-mix where the ratio never changes 


From the 1989 Merc. manual:

"_*Operation of the Oil Injection System*

The oil injection system delivers oil mixture on engine demand, from 100 to 1 at idle to 50 to 1 at wide open throttle._" 


So you DO NOT want to remove this and just use a pre-mix - it will effect your engine performance


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## clarego (Aug 30, 2011)

runs good now im still hesitating on that autoblend system i cant afford a new engine. im going to remove her and check on it but i got her going and everything is a ok


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## ohiobass (Aug 30, 2011)

Captain Ahab said:


> clarego said:
> 
> 
> > duuuuuuuuuuuuh #-o #-o #-o what is wot :?: im new
> ...





If doing without oil injection, do a 64:1 ratio (2oz oil per gallon of gas) and don't worry about it! 8) 
Like i said before, most, if not all outboards can actually run a lifetime on a 100:1 ratio, but the manufacturers went to a 50:1 ratio recommendation to protect against people who can't measure right! :roll: 
from mid/late 80's back, smaller outboards had a recommended 100:1 ratio (says that right on the side of my 1986 Johnson 9.9) and that's because they can and WILL run fine at that ratio, but I still think better too much oil than not enough, thus the 64:1 ratio I run 8) 
I run my pre mix outboards at a 64:1 ratio (for the last 35 yrs), and I do not do any trolling, run mostly at mid to wot. 8)


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