# 16' Starcraft winter project **finished Pics page5**



## stone4140 (Jan 2, 2011)

Well I picked up a 16' Starcraft today that came with a 33hp Johnson and a trailer built like it was meant for battle in WWII today for $400. She is a bit on the homely side right now but with some work I'm thinking she will be a good fishing platform and hopefully be a bit easier on the eyes. My question is has anybody got a boat of this size off the trailer and flipped over in their garage. Its 16.5' long with a 6' beam. I plan on gutting it on the trailer getting the motor off and then getting her off the trailer to get the paint off. Any suggestions?? Also what have people found to be the most effective way of removing paint from the hull? Thanks


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## mmf (Jan 2, 2011)

I have done several of these Starcraft boats before and used paint stripper to remove the outer coat of paint only, you do not want to remove the self etching primer next to the aluminum!


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## BYOB Fishing (Jan 2, 2011)

To flip my bass tracker over, I used the winch strap. I unhooked it from the bow eye, ran the strap around one of the center rollers on the trailer, and then back to the bow eye. I winched the strap up, and the roller worked as a pulley pulling the boat backwards. My wife was in the Jeep, and once the back end of the boat hit the grass, she slowly pulled forward, and the boat sort of drug itself off. We flipped it over by hand after that. I re-loaded mine upside down on the trailer to put in the garage. I spanned the bunks with 2x4s that were wider than the boat, but still able to fit in the garage. I screwed the 2x4s directly to the bunks. We backed the trailer next to the boat, and both picked up the front of the boat and swung it over onto the first 2x4. I used the winch strap again to pull the boat up onto the second set of 2x4s. Worked pretty well for me.


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## stone4140 (Jan 2, 2011)

So you are saying I should not get down to the bare aluminum? f I did go down to bare aluminum does that mean I would have to prime it before painting it again?This is my first tin boat so I'll take any info you can give me. I modified a fiberglass boat previously and I feel like most everything I learned on that is not that useful here. I've read through about 20 old posts and 9 pages on steelflex and gluvit and I still find myself confused on many things. And I'm to young to have wet brain already. So if anyone feels like breaking some basic suggestions down for me it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks


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## LonLB (Jan 2, 2011)

Even bigger boats are pulled off the trailer and flipped over. :wink: 

If you strip it out I would think you and a couple friends should be able to pull it off.

I'm thinking that might be a boat that was an enclosed bow, and was converted at some point.


Those starcrafts are nice because you can fix them up, and they look like a modern boat. They were pretty ahead of their time in styling IMO.

I'm currently doing a similar boat with similar size. It's right at 17' and 78" wide.


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## LonLB (Jan 2, 2011)

stone4140 said:


> So you are saying I should not get down to the bare aluminum? f I did go down to bare aluminum does that mean I would have to prime it before painting it again?This is my first tin boat so I'll take any info you can give me. I modified a fiberglass boat previously and I feel like most everything I learned on that is not that useful here. I've read through about 20 old posts and 9 pages on steelflex and gluvit and I still find myself confused on many things. And I'm to young to have wet brain already. So if anyone feels like breaking some basic suggestions down for me it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks




Going to bare aluminum is fine. If you do just use some zinc chromate primer.

I'm going with Gluvit on the inside and regular paint on the outside. It seems like the Gluvit is an easy application, and the Steelflex not so easy.


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## stone4140 (Jan 2, 2011)

LonLB said:


> Even bigger boats are pulled off the trailer and flipped over. :wink:
> 
> If you strip it out I would think you and a couple friends should be able to pull it off.
> 
> ...



Ya I've been watching your post. They are similar but I like your boat more ( I have boat envy)  . Anyways the bow cover was definitely removed and they used part of the old console/dashboard to make the side console. I just wish it was a bit further back it leaves very little room for a casting deck. I am a remote steering guy though so either way it will have a console just may have to cut the remaining aluminum console off. And from what I have read the Gluvit def seems like the way to go on the interior and I think knowing my inability to not use every power tool in the garage I will be going to bare aluminum with stripper and some kind of grinder.


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## LonLB (Jan 2, 2011)

stone4140 said:


> LonLB said:
> 
> 
> > Even bigger boats are pulled off the trailer and flipped over. :wink:
> ...



I've considered moving my stbd console back too. I'm not positive I will yet, but I'm thinking about it for sure.

I want plenty of fishing room. While it'll be a fishing boat first I don't want to intrude on too much of the rest of the boat because I want room to take the family out too.


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## mmf (Jan 2, 2011)

LonLB said:


> stone4140 said:
> 
> 
> > So you are saying I should not get down to the bare aluminum? f I did go down to bare aluminum does that mean I would have to prime it before painting it again?This is my first tin boat so I'll take any info you can give me. I modified a fiberglass boat previously and I feel like most everything I learned on that is not that useful here. I've read through about 20 old posts and 9 pages on steelflex and gluvit and I still find myself confused on many things. And I'm to young to have wet brain already. So if anyone feels like breaking some basic suggestions down for me it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks



you can go down to the bare aluminum but then you will HAVE to use SELF ETCHING zinc chromate primer which will be another expense if you do not take off the original primer. Failure to use self etching primer means your paint will flake off later!


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## stone4140 (Jan 2, 2011)

[/quote]you can go down to the bare aluminum but then you will HAVE to use SELF ETCHING zinc chromate primer which will be another expense if you do not take off the original primer. Failure to use self etching primer means your paint will flake off later![/quote]

Well I never mind saving cash. Is it fairly obvious when you get to the primer? If I could just get it to that point in most places then just prime in spots that went to bare metal that might save time and cash . I am sure once I get started I'll see where it is all going to head. Thanks


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## LonLB (Jan 2, 2011)

you can go down to the bare aluminum but then you will HAVE to use SELF ETCHING zinc chromate primer which will be another expense if you do not take off the original primer. Failure to use self etching primer means your paint will flake off later![/quote]

Well I never mind saving cash. Is it fairly obvious when you get to the primer? If I could just get it to that point in most places then just prime in spots that went to bare metal that might save time and cash . I am sure once I get started I'll see where it is all going to head. Thanks[/quote]


If sanding, yes probably. If using stripper you may as well plan on going down to bare aluminum.


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## stone4140 (Jan 6, 2011)

Well I was able to take two floors out of the boat and a whole bunch of frozen flotation foam. The top floor was in great shape really nice plywood nicer than most the stuff ya find at the depot or lowes. But the sub-flooring was 100% shot. It came off with zero effort and fell apart like wet cardboard. She is much lighter now. So hopefully some beers and some pulled pork will get enough of my buddies over this weekend to get her off the trailer and flipped over in my garage. Better do the flippin before the drinkin  . Also there is a "I beam" running down the center that tapers down as it heads toward the transom. I plan on keeping this as it is a great guide/support when I relay the floor. Is this a common practice? Also The flotation obviously gave some support to the floor. I considered using the pool noodles idea I read on here I thinks that's great. But I'm also considering the two part pourable foam. 8 cubic ft for 60$ do you think that would be enough? Maybe supplement with some noodles if its is still lacking..


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## LonLB (Jan 6, 2011)

Yes leave that support.

As for the foam, I really like the simplicity of the noodles or the foam board insulation.

I really like the support the pourable foam adds to the boat and to the floor. Some companies market it as a structural foam, and others don't, so who knows.

I HATE that the 2 part absorbs water, and 90% of the time blocks the drain areas in the hull.


I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet. I've got a ways to go before I get to that point though.


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## mmf (Jan 7, 2011)

I rebuilt a Starcraft this past spring, utility rebuild and sold it as soon as I finished it (could not resist offer). I used only pool noodles underneath the 3/4" floor. All wood was finished with multiple coats of marine spar varnish and fastener holes were marked and drilled before finish was applied. This lets the finish seep into the penetrations good, if you fail to do this the wood will get wet everywhere you drill a hole and will not last long. The edges of the plywood are most important when applying the sealer too, make sure you seal edges and penetrations as #1 on the list. I also used rustolem clean metal primer tinted at Lowe's for a flat finish coat. You can have it tinted about any color you want. Easy to touch-up and cheap, just keep your formula written down for the tint color.
Here's the link to some pics:
https://picasaweb.google.com/114764926961602492668/Starcraft2?feat=directlink


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## stone4140 (Jan 7, 2011)

mmf said:


> I rebuilt a Starcraft this past spring, utility rebuild and sold it as soon as I finished it (could not resist offer). I used only pool noodles underneath the 3/4" floor. All wood was finished with multiple coats of marine spar varnish and fastener holes were marked and drilled before finish was applied. This lets the finish seep into the penetrations good, if you fail to do this the wood will get wet everywhere you drill a hole and will not last long. The edges of the plywood are most important when applying the sealer too, make sure you seal edges and penetrations as #1 on the list. I also used rustolem clean metal primer tinted at Lowe's for a flat finish coat. You can have it tinted about any color you want. Easy to touch-up and cheap, just keep your formula written down for the tint color.
> Here's the link to some pics:
> https://picasaweb.google.com/114764926961602492668/Starcraft2?feat=directlink



Boat looks great, very similiar to mine I am just going to have to contend with the chopped up work they did when it was converted to open bow. They could have done worse for sure but it will still be some work to hide some stuff. I figured if I used the noodles I would just use 3/4" plywood for extra stiffness. Also did you use the rustoleum on the exterior hull? I like the two tone you went with and I plan on using some seats from cabelas or bass pro that are two tone and taking the colors from those for the hull colors.


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## mmf (Jan 8, 2011)

YEP RUSTOLEUM on the outside, same color, just the floor had more spar varinish applied over it after I put in the totally aluminum rivets from McMaster Carr.


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## stone4140 (Jan 8, 2011)

10 pound pork shoulder and some western New York snow and we got the boat off the trailer and flipped over. Actually very easy. 6-7 guys made very light work of getting it in the garage. I wish i bought a bigger boat now.  A single car garage and a 16ft boat make for tight quarters but at least I can walk and work around all parts of the boat. The tougher part will be doing the work when she is right side up. Ill either have to build a jig or put her back on the trailer. I'd rather build a jig so i can save space.. The work begins tomorrow....


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## LonLB (Jan 8, 2011)

If you were closer I'd have been all over that BBQ and Beer.....


Ah, I mean flipping that boat over. :LOL2: 



I'm not looking forward to that part. I'm going to get some harbor freight dollies to put the boat on when I get there. That way I can move the boat around easy.

I think I'd convert that boat to a tiller. I'm still thinking about doing that to mine.


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## stone4140 (Jan 9, 2011)

LonLB said:


> If you were closer I'd have been all over that BBQ and Beer.....
> 
> 
> Ah, I mean flipping that boat over. :LOL2:
> ...



My brother keeps pushing me towards tiller. It would be less work that's for sure. I'd have to get that splashwell out or lower it atleast (and then there goes the work saved  )But I'm not going to take the idea off the table. If I did I would build a deck where the splashwell is. My main reason for not doing that is I plan on using the boat for trolling for salmon and trout on calm days in lake Ontario and from my experiences having steering is nice for that. But I primarily will use the boat for pike,bass and taking the family out so I'll just have to see where the projects takes me. Or If you get there first I'd like to see what you do and how it looks. Oh and anytime your in the Rochester , NY area let me know and I will find an excuse to smoke a shoulder and buy some Genny lights(its brewed here so its very cheap  )


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## stone4140 (Jan 9, 2011)

I saw this stick steering while checking some stuff out https://www.trackerboats.com/boat/?boat=3321 thought it was pretty cool unfortunately it costs $250.


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## LonLB (Jan 9, 2011)

stone4140 said:


> I saw this stick steering while checking some stuff out https://www.trackerboats.com/boat/?boat=3321 thought it was pretty cool unfortunately it costs $250.




I've considered that setup too.

Normally the way they are used is the steering is on the port side of the boat, and the shifter/throttle is on the starboard side. Usually in a narrow boat, so you can reach both of them while sitting in the middle of the boat.


My idea was to put the shifter, and the stick steer on the same side of the boat, but use a hot foot throttle.


Some of the bigger tiller motors have a handle long enough to be able to work around that splashwell. Or at least close to it. The splash well could be lowered, like I am planning on mine, then build a rear deck over some of it, and put a seat base on it for driving the tilling. Then a the seat and it's post would insert right into the base, with no pedestal.

The only thing I don't like about tiller steer is if you fish from the front, you have to go the whole length of the boat from engine to bow. Which isn't a big deal unless you have a couple other guys or kids fishing with you.

If you do stick with a single console, and need a steering setup, there is a rotary system sold for $106 and change.


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## stone4140 (Jan 9, 2011)

Alright I almost killed my rotozip today using a wire wheel in an attempt to get the paint off. Must not be the right application for that tool cause it smoked out pretty bad. And the electric angle grinder with a sanding wheel was too aggressive and took metal of. The wire wheel worked ok till the rotozip smoked but I could see myself being out there till March using that method. So my next step is to try a 3m large area paint remover on a a pneumatic grinder or try some paint stripper. Paint stripper would be my first choice if it wasn't so darn cold out. I just can't see it working well when its 25 degrees. And except for the citrus stuff which never seems to work well the rest of them need atleast some ventilation. So I may attempt to warm up the garage apply it then leave while it works and come back and scrape. Any better ideas I am open.


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## stone4140 (Jan 11, 2011)

I made good progress with a 3m style stripper disc. I picked it up at home depot along with a cupped wire brush both for the right angle grinder. The Norton stripper works really fast but can take the rivets down with the paint. I got what is done in the pick done in about 30-40 minutes. Ill go back with the cupped wire brush and clean up the rivets and grooves. But I figure if I ever can get a couple 4-5 hours of work done I should be pretty close to getting all the paint off. Lets hope the wife takes the son to the in-laws for a couple hours this weekend  I posted the link for the stripper disc I was very impressed with it.

https://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5y...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053


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## stone4140 (Jan 16, 2011)

Stripping paint in the winter in a single car garage is a great way to spend a day :---) After a couple hours of work we were able to get down to either bare metal or primer or in some cases paint but very well adhered paint. If it was summer I think I would go to bare metal everywhere with stripper but wire wheeling an old boat somewhat freaks me out because i have read they put a whole lotta lead in old marine paint and I have a kid and a pregnant wife. So I spent a good part of the day cleaning after as well. I Think I am going to replace the transom before priming and painting. The transom is full of so many screws and bolts that I feel like it would be pointless to prep it and then go at getting the transom out after. I also am planning on taking the splashwell out not only to make getting the transom out easier but I may just keep it out and put a casting deck in that area. Any see any problems with doing that???


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## LonLB (Jan 16, 2011)

stone4140 said:


> Stripping paint in the winter in a single car garage is a great way to spend a day :---) After a couple hours of work we were able to get down to either bare metal or primer or in some cases paint but very well adhered paint. If it was summer I think I would go to bare metal everywhere with stripper but wire wheeling an old boat somewhat freaks me out because i have read they put a whole lotta lead in old marine paint and I have a kid and a pregnant wife. So I spent a good part of the day cleaning after as well. I Think I am going to replace the transom before priming and painting. The transom is full of so many screws and bolts that I feel like it would be pointless to prep it and then go at getting the transom out after. I also am planning on taking the splashwell out not only to make getting the transom out easier but I may just keep it out and put a casting deck in that area. Any see any problems with doing that???




I was stripping mine yesterday too...
I'm using paint stripper, and a hand held wire brush with good results.

As for the splash well.......With no splash well you will get water on your deck. Also, I would double check if you have to have at least some, for when the motor is tilted all the way up.

It IS a structural part to the boat too. Keep that in mind.
Now with all that said, I think it would be possible to remove it, or shrink it a BUNCH. You would have to build the framing for your deck in a way that it adds the structural support to your boat, that you lost when removing the splashwell.

I'm going to keep mine in place, but lower it about 4" Then run a deck over some of it.
Eventually I'll add some splash guards so any water splashing won't be a concern.


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## stone4140 (Jan 16, 2011)

[/quote]
I was stripping mine yesterday too...
I'm using paint stripper, and a hand held wire brush with good results.

As for the splash well.......With no splash well you will get water on your deck. Also, I would double check if you have to have at least some, for when the motor is tilted all the way up.

It IS a structural part to the boat too. Keep that in mind.
Now with all that said, I think it would be possible to remove it, or shrink it a BUNCH. You would have to build the framing for your deck in a way that it adds the structural support to your boat, that you lost when removing the splashwell.

I'm going to keep mine in place, but lower it about 4" Then run a deck over some of it.
Eventually I'll add some splash guards so any water splashing won't be a concern.[/quote]




Ya I probably should have tried the stripper but I think I got it to a point where it will still look good once prepped primed and painted. I'm going to get some gasket remover spray ( I read a post on another site where a guy used it to take paint of with success) and hand sand any spots that are anything but smooth. I don't think I would try that for a whole boat but I think it will work well for the few small areas I want to touch up. I think the idea of lowering the splashwell and decking over part of it is a good one. That looks like what they do on the newer boats. I have to get the darn boat flipped back over so i can asses the situation better. I'm looking forward to getting the whole transom area cleaned out. There is years of screws and just general crap that has been attached that I want to get patched up. Do you have to replace your transom? Your boat looks newer and in better shape..


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## stone4140 (Jan 17, 2011)

I did a little boat stuff shopping today (the only enjoyable shopping). Its amazing all of the things you can get from harbor freight for 20 bucks. But I also spent a little cash on a lead paint test kit from home depot. I know most people probably don't worry about that stuff but I figured I'd throw it out there. 30 bucks comes with 6 test kits. I was pretty pumped that my boat paint was lead negative. So now I am going to sand,grind, and make dust as much as I see fit. If anyone has a boat pre-70's and kids around you may wanna think about getting a kit. Other than that it was -7 here today so any motivation to work on the hull seeped out of my frozen fingers.


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## stone4140 (Jan 18, 2011)

Has anyone tried rustoleum bare metal marine primer?? I'm thinking about using it because it can be applied on bare metal or paint and I have some of both. It also says it can be used as a top coat. My only concern is it says for above the waterline only. I assume as long as the boat won't be docked for long periods of time i should be ok. I also would rather roll and brush on than spray. Anyone have any experience or thoughts?

https://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=9


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## stone4140 (Jan 24, 2011)

Got most of the boat stripped. There is some paint and primer on the hull still but it is all very smooth so i'm not to worried about getting every spot bare. I ordered rustoleom bare metal marine primer. I bought two quarts for 30 bucks w/ shipping. I hope it works well. I've never been disappointing with any of there other products. Home depot was selling a rustoleum latex aluminum primer but I wasn't sure how confident I would be with that. Don't really know enough about it. There are some fairly large dents and one spot I put into the photo below where the hull must have hit a rock and made a long crease. Does not appear to have broken through. But I bought some aluminum epoxy patch I hope to put it on and smooth the appearance of it. I'll continue to prep the surface for primer over the next few days. -15 degree wind chills today. I always pick the nice winters for projects.


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## stone4140 (Jan 28, 2011)

Got the hull primed yesterday minus the transom. I am going to wait until I replace it to prime and paint it. Used the roll and tip method and it seemed to work very well. I was happy with the application of the rustoleum. It went on very nice despite the cold weather. It dried fairly quick as well. A couple tops coats and I hope to get her flipped back over so i can start some "real" work. The process so far has been a little uninteresting and a whole lot dirty. Priming felt pretty good though..


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## LonLB (Jan 28, 2011)

Did you lay down some zinc chromate first?

What kind of primer did you use?


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## stone4140 (Jan 28, 2011)

LonLB said:


> Did you lay down some zinc chromate first?
> 
> What kind of primer did you use?




I used rustoleum bare metal marine primer. It is intended for priming aluminum hulls above the waterline but I used it all over. I trailer my boat so I'm thinking it won't be an issue. I looked at the chemicals in it and it did not have zinc chromate in it but Strontium Zinc Phosphosilicate which from what I can figure out by way of google is something that has a similar effect. Now if I am wrong about that please let me know. I wish I would have paid more attention in chemistry.  .The link for the stuff is a couple posts up.


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## LonLB (Jan 28, 2011)

Where did you get it, and for how much $$$$


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## stone4140 (Jan 28, 2011)

LonLB said:


> Where did you get it, and for how much $$$$



Off of amazon. I bought two quarts because it was eligible for super saver if i bought 25$ worth of product. So It was 31 with free delivery for 2 quarts. I used almost a whole quart which surprised me. So i am glad i got the second for the transom and the splashwell and other stuff inside the boat. I figured this time of year it would be easier to roll than spray on. And with how it came out as long as it holds I think it was a good choice. I put the order info below. 

Amazon.com items (Sold by Amazon.com, LLC) :

2 Rust-Oleum 207016 Marine M... $14.57 2 $29.14

Shipped via UPS


--------------------------------------------------------------------
Item Subtotal: $29.14
Shipping and handling: $8.41
Super Saver Discount: $-8.41
Sales Tax Collected: $2.34
Total: $31.48


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## LonLB (Jan 29, 2011)

I think I'm going to try that primer also...

I'm hoping to have mine stripped every where except the bottom this weekend. I'm actually working on it now too, but needed to come inside for some fresh air... :shock:


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## bulldog (Jan 29, 2011)

That paint looks very clean!! Good job! =D>


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## stone4140 (Jan 31, 2011)

I have been doing some research on paints. I came across this Sherwin Williams paint I thought was interesting. It is an exterior latex. I was a bit weary when I saw it was latex. They say it is their most durable and longest lasting exterior paint. Even more than their oil based. I thought it was interesting that it is strictly exterior as well. Their oil based paints were interior/exterior. Cool thing about it is it can be applied in 35 degree weather. Which is still higher than we are looking at for awhile but could be easily attained in the garage with a heater. I imagine it has less odor,would apply easier and would clean up better than oil as well. Just not sure how I feel about latex. Being stuck working in an attached garage in the middle of winter presents issues that tend to lead me looking at things I wouldn't bother with in summer. Anyone have any thoughts on or experience with Sherwin Williams A-100. I attached a link

https://www.sherwin-williams.com/pro/products/a100_exterior_acrylic_latex/


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## Critter (Jan 31, 2011)

stone4140 said:


> I have been doing some research on paints. I came across this Sherwin Williams paint I thought was interesting. It is an exterior latex. I was a bit weary when I saw it was latex. They say it is their most durable and longest lasting exterior paint. Even more than their oil based. I thought it was interesting that it is strictly exterior as well. Their oil based paints were interior/exterior. Cool thing about it is it can be applied in 35 degree weather. Which is still higher than we are looking at for awhile but could be easily attained in the garage with a heater. I imagine it has less odor,would apply easier and would clean up better than oil as well. Just not sure how I feel about latex. Being stuck working in an attached garage in the middle of winter presents issues that tend to lead me looking at things I wouldn't bother with in summer. Anyone have any thoughts on or experience with Sherwin Williams A-100. I attached a link
> 
> https://www.sherwin-williams.com/pro/products/a100_exterior_acrylic_latex/



I work on boat launches including building the docks/piers for them. I have NEVER found a latex paint that stands up to the water for long including a Sherwin Williams paint that I tried a few years ago. I don't know if it is the same product as what your thinking of using. If you use it and it works please let us know.


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## stone4140 (Feb 5, 2011)

I ended up using rustoleum gloss and added a hardener. Happy with the results other than a few sags that will have to be sanded and fixed come some better weather.


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## WantABigBass (Feb 5, 2011)

It looks good. I like this boat and can't wait to see your progress. Keep the updates coming.


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## stone4140 (Feb 6, 2011)

I'm starting to get ahead of myself but I am thinking about steering systems. Currently It has the cable and pulley system which I don't mind. But I also would not mind upgrading to uflex or something like it if i could do it for a reasonable price. After doing the research it looks like I would need a basic kit $129, a Transom mount (clamp block) $70 and an engine adapter (clevis) $30 and a steering wheel $40. And after all that i would still need to adapt it to my 60's Johnson. Anyone have any pics of them doing this or advice. $300 could be used in other areas rather than steering. The old setup did not come out that easy as it was epoxied into the old dash and took a beating coming out. I was hoping to get into a new setup for under 200 but it doesn't look possible.


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## stone4140 (Feb 8, 2011)

I was lucky enough to win $200 on the Superbowl. I just picked a square for 5 bucks and now I am 2 boats seats richer. So now I can dedicate my boat seat fund to getting uflex steering once I get to that point. Not that I am even remotely close to needing seats either but I needed to spend the money on something before it turned into diaper and going out to dinner money


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## LonLB (Feb 8, 2011)

Very nice seats.

The seat budget is going to kill me...If my boat turns out like I hope and plan it will look nice, and I want nice seats to go with it.....But that stinks because you can save alot of money on boat seats....When you do the appearance usually goes down though.


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## stone4140 (Feb 9, 2011)

LonLB said:


> Very nice seats.
> 
> The seat budget is going to kill me...If my boat turns out like I hope and plan it will look nice, and I want nice seats to go with it.....But that stinks because you can save alot of money on boat seats....When you do the appearance usually goes down though.



Ya I could have got three or four decent seats for the price of these two. But I am going to do what I did on my last boat. I will use these two seats for when I'm underway and for fishing. I just use the kind of post setups that you allow you to switch out quickly from base to base. Then I will just pick up a couple cheaper fold down seats for when I have more than two people in the boat which isn't two often. I like only enough seats on the boat for how many people are on board to save room. My wife wanted me to put a lounge folding seat on the boat but that would have killed the budget and killed to much room as well. When its time for you to buy check walmart.com they had a great looking seat on there but not the color choices I was looking for they also had a post setup for a good price. Free shipping to store as well. . Also Gander mt had the ones I bought on sale for $89 I have a store by me but they have free shipping to your house on all orders.


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## stone4140 (Feb 11, 2011)

I came across this advertisement for this starcraft that is basically the same as mine. Its vintage but they have a pretty nice setup idea. If the back seats could be quickly converted into a casting platform and a platform was added up front it would be a great setup. I have always thought center consoles were cool. I have never fished from one so I am not sure if it would be of value but it has the wheels turning. For any of you guys who have pre-70's boats fiberglassics website has factory spec sheets for hp rating, boat weight and dimensions for most boat makers. That's how I found this I also found that my exact model takes up to 85hp. Now that would be a fun ride.


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## stone4140 (Feb 14, 2011)

I got the boat on the trailer so I could start working on the interior.Luckily the tongue was only bolted on so I took it off so I could still close the garage door. First off will be the transom. But I'm thinking ahead and am looking for any ideas for some problems I will have later on. It looks like it hit something probably a dock and it ripped off the rear transom corner bracket and the trim on the side of the gunnel. I have some ideas but I would like to hear some different ones. Also this boat was closed bow at one point now there is just a thin gunnel on the bow with no interior trim. Once again any ideas are welcome. The whole gunnel is whooped and I probably will carpet what I can. I like having a wide gunnel so i can mount some down riggers so tearing it off would be a last resort.


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## stone4140 (Feb 19, 2011)

Got the splashwell out and many of the transom bolts. I'm considering leaving the splashwell out and putting a casting deck in its place.


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## LonLB (Feb 19, 2011)

I just got my splash well out yesterday too 8) 

If you are set on leaving it out, make sure that the casting deck ties into the sides of the boat, all the way to the top of the boat. That splash well adds a bunch of strength to the boat.

Me personally I'm going to leave mine, but I'm going to lower it about 4". I'm also going to shorten the splash well itself about 8-10". I need to be able to operate a tiller handle, but I also want a small deck.

I'm lowering it so I can build a small deck over a big portion of it.


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## stone4140 (Feb 19, 2011)

LonLB said:


> I just got my splash well out yesterday too 8)
> 
> If you are set on leaving it out, make sure that the casting deck ties into the sides of the boat, all the way to the top of the boat. That splash well adds a bunch of strength to the boat.
> 
> ...



Ya man I've been watching your other posts and I saw you were going with a tiller. I am as excited to see yours almost as much as my own. I wish you were farther ahead so I could see what you are going to do with your splashwell and deck. I can't visualize what you are describing but it sounds about what I want to do. I kept the splashwell and may utilize it in some fashion.I just have to start and see where it goes. I got the transom wood out as well. I'm thinking if I built the deck below the top drains I could either reuse the splashwell and modify it if needed or fabricate a new one. Definetly would tie the deck into the sides and run supports up into the gunwale. I wish I could find those seats they use on the newer boats that fold down into the deck and then become part of the casting platform. I've looked but it looks like they only come with boats and are not after market.


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## LonLB (Feb 19, 2011)

I should have what I'm talking about done, as far as the splash well, here in a couple days.


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## stone4140 (Mar 3, 2011)

I got the transom boards glued and epoxied on both sides.I kinda like the way the plywood looks epoxied so I may just spar varnish over it and keep the wood look. Maybe one day Ill actually follow the temperature recommendations on something. I have found with both paint and epoxy that I need to plan on the material running in the colder weather. For me its worth it because I am trying to make sure I finish by a certain time period but someday I'd like to have a project that is a summer project  But for now Ill just sand and repair when the time comes.I definitely plan on buying a gravity fed paint sprayer and a pneumatic rivet gun. I want to touch up the paint on the sides and then put 2-3 more coats on. in warmer weather.I think i would have only painted the bottom in the winter and would wait for spring next time to paint any vertical surfaces. That way i could have got the boat flipped sanded painted and turned back over to work. I have found that as long as the surface is horizontal epoxy and oil based paint are fine in cooler weather. I ordered Gluvit and I am hoping a quart is going to be enough. After the Gluvit is applied Ill but both transom boards on and get started decking. I also scored a whole bunch of aluminum in the form of ladders. So I have changed my plan of using wood decking. If it works well it will have been cheaper and longer lasting than the wood. I got a 35' and a 10' ladder for only 30 bucks.


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## LonLB (Mar 3, 2011)

I'm hoping that a combo of being stored in the garage, or with a cover when outside, will make mine last. I only used spar varnish. No resin of any kind.

I think it'll be fine. My dad used el cheapo plywood, thompson's coated it, then painted it for the floors and transom of a boat, and used it for 20 years...When he sold it, all the wood was in great shape still.

Boat is coming together nicely. We are in about the same spot again today. Finished my cutting my boards and coated them with Spar.


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## atuck593 (Mar 3, 2011)

Stone, I have heard a lot of good things about Gluvit...I heard its a lot easier to work with than Steelflex. I just ordered mine from the Amazon Marketplace just a quart. I have a question though I see you plan on using aluminum for the floor. Do you plan on applying the Gluvit to the floor and then rivet the frame to the floor or apply Gluvit over your rivets?


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## stone4140 (Mar 4, 2011)

LonLB said:


> I'm hoping that a combo of being stored in the garage, or with a cover when outside, will make mine last. I only used spar varnish. No resin of any kind.
> 
> I think it'll be fine. My dad used el cheapo plywood, thompson's coated it, then painted it for the floors and transom of a boat, and used it for 20 years...When he sold it, all the wood was in great shape still.
> 
> Boat is coming together nicely. We are in about the same spot again today. Finished my cutting my boards and coated them with Spar.



Well one of the reasons I epoxied it was I had the epoxy laying around. Before my son was born I had a great idea of building a small boat. Long story short I framed out the small boat and then asked myself what the hell I was going to do with it when I was done. After that thought I then decided to stop and Modify and deck the boat I already had. Two good things came of it. I had good clark craft epoxy left over and I had acquired some nice tools!! I have been thinking though what I am going to do for the rest of the plywood. I won't order more epoxy. Are you going to carpet the boat? If so how do you plan on sealing the wood. I used Thompsons on my last boat and when the floors got wet the plywood bubbled in one spot for a couple days till it dried out. I blame that more on the plywood than the thompsons. It was exterior grade but must not have been good stuff.


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## stone4140 (Mar 4, 2011)

atuck593 said:


> Stone, I have heard a lot of good things about Gluvit...I heard its a lot easier to work with than Steelflex. I just ordered mine from the Amazon Marketplace just a quart. I have a question though I see you plan on using aluminum for the floor. Do you plan on applying the Gluvit to the floor and then rivet the frame to the floor or apply Gluvit over your rivets?



Well for the floor itself I am using plywood. For any framing that is involved I will be using aluminum ladders (And Lon you called your dad el cheapo  ) I plan on doing the gluvit first on every seam and rivet I can find below the waterline. Then i will frame the back and front decks. If I have to make any rivets or holes for fasteners I will use 3m5200 to seal them back up. I am kinda kicking myself for not just ordering a gallon of Gluvit I paid 50 with shipping for a quart and for 120 I could have got a gallon with free shipping. My reason for saying that is I don't plan on having any gluvit left over after the initial application. So any holes will be filled will 3m or JBweld. Take anything I say with a grain of salt because this is my first tin project. I have yet to lay a rivet in anything other than the gutters on my house..


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## LonLB (Mar 4, 2011)

stone4140 said:


> LonLB said:
> 
> 
> > I'm hoping that a combo of being stored in the garage, or with a cover when outside, will make mine last. I only used spar varnish. No resin of any kind.
> ...





Ya, I'm going to carpet it.
I'm going to soak it with Thompsons, and then paint it with Rustoleum. I know that's not the popular practice, but like I mentioned I've seen that last YEARS using cheap pine plywood. I'm using exterior grade Fir plywood.

I would never glass the flooring, like is popular practice. No matter how hard you try to seal, it seems like it always lets a little bit of water in. But, doesn't let any water out.


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## atuck593 (Mar 4, 2011)

I got yah... I kind of figured that the aluminum was just for the framing and then put plywood over top. I think I will use the Gluvit first and then rivet my frame in like you plan on doing. Word of caution though (not from experience but through research) I would use the Gluvit sparingly and only where you really need it. I did some research on here and a few guys have posed that a quart was just enough to get through all the rivets and supports on a 14ft boat. The best of luck with your build I will be watching to see how it comes along...


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## Jwalk721 (Mar 4, 2011)

Looking good so far. It looks like we have the same boat. I will be following your thread looking for ideas.


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## stone4140 (Mar 5, 2011)

Jwalk721 said:


> Looking good so far. It looks like we have the same boat. I will be following your thread looking for ideas.



If you have anymore shots of your boat I'd like to see them. Especially the splashwell area or any decking if there is any. Its tough to see in the pic how your boat is setup..


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## stone4140 (Mar 6, 2011)

Got some work done this weekend. Rub rails removed,flimsy bow gunnel removed, Some dents pounded out, the rivets and seams wire wheeled and prepped for gluvit, and the side storage walls removed. I'm thinking about utilizing the brackets that supported the side storage compartment into that back decking. The brackets are at a good height and run a good length of the boat. I will also use the brackets to support the gunnel and give it more strength. I think then I am going to run carpet from the underside of the outside of the gunnel and wrap it around and then down the inside of the hull . My rubrail was broken and i think this will be the cheapest and best looking option. Then i have to fabricate probably out of plywood a new bow gunnell and front cap to mount a trolling motor.


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## stone4140 (Mar 22, 2011)

Gluvit applied, Transom installed and bow cap started. Next steps will include floor,front and back deck, install a new front gunnel and a ton of other stuff. I think I am going to glass the plywood bow cap to the front bow rail for added strength and to make it seamless so when i install the carpet it looks nice. I also need to sell my other boat so I can get some money for some other fun stuff. Oh and I need to finish doing the carb on the motor. new impeller and put new points and condensers in. And then hope that that will be enough to get the motor running good enough for the summer. Man that sounds like a lot. Oh and I have a daughter due in May. What are my chances of finishing before then?? not good probably.. :lol:


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## stone4140 (Apr 3, 2011)

I got some of the bow gunnel roughed in. The plan is to use luan to go vertically down the gunnel to match the existing aluminum gunnel. I'm using luan because I think it will be easy to contour to the bend and once glassed it will be strong I'm thinking. Then I am going to glass the whole front bow area together to make it smooth and solid. Lotta work but something needed to be done and once carpeted I think it will look good. It will be much stronger than the aluminum that was left there from when it was originally converted to open bow.


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## Jwalk721 (Apr 3, 2011)

stone4140 said:


> Jwalk721 said:
> 
> 
> > Looking good so far. It looks like we have the same boat. I will be following your thread looking for ideas.
> ...



Here's a few, sorry it took so long. I haven't been on to much lately. The boat is pretty much just as I bought it. I'm debating if I'm going to keep it all open or go with the "bass boat" look. I'm thinking open because I have two little ones and it's harder to fall out that way


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## stone4140 (Apr 5, 2011)

Jwalk721 said:


> stone4140 said:
> 
> 
> > Jwalk721 said:
> ...




I've gone back and forth with the whole deck or no deck idea as well. It would be a lot less work and better for the kids but I keep going back to the deck. First off cause i am keeping the splashwell out so I need to put some support back in its place anyways. And then if the other guy I'm fishing with has a deck well I sure as hell better have my own as well


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## stone4140 (Apr 21, 2011)

Started decking the bow. I am using old ladders i acquired for free or cheap. They seem to be working good so far. I still have to seal the floor before attaching brackets. I also Have to put more bracing in but I figured I'd post a pic of the early ladder stage.


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## stone4140 (May 10, 2011)

Got the front deck cut out and I cut new Gunnels. The Gunnels will extend down to the deck when I'm done so I ditched the curved ones. These take up more space but they'll go right down and once carpeted I think it will look good. And they will be nice and strong for rod holders and even sitting/standing on. All the floor boards are sealed and painted and I put the splashwell back in. For time/money/weight sake it just made more sense to put it back in. The rear deck would have been almost to the top of the transom after making it high enough for a gas tank. With kids bein in the boat it just seemed easier and better to keep it in. Anyways the 2nd fisherman will still have a great area to fish and I will have a pretty substantial front deck. Now I just need to sell my old boat for $$ for supplies. I have priced the thing to sell and its just not moving. I am shocked with all the great features it has but for some reason its sittin. Daaang I need that money!! I put a picture down there of the boat for sale in case you know anybody looking for a great pike/bass boat


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## stone4140 (Jun 9, 2011)

Painted the boat two Tone and started laying carpet.Hope to be done by July.


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## stone4140 (Jul 21, 2011)

Almost finished couple small projects left. Started the motor in the driveway and after just a new carb kit it seems to be running great. Just gotta test her on the water now and make sure it runs under load. Installed a hummingbird with DSI that I'm excited to try out. My favorite part is the yard stick epoxied into the splashwell wood. I also went from the old pulley steering to a new Uflex setup. I'm going to splash her on saturday!!It only has a 33hp Johnson right now. This winter comin up will be the trailer and a 50 hp+ outboard....


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## appfire (Jul 21, 2011)

Great looking boat, love all the work to detailing you did on it. 

Chris


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## Flatbotm (Jul 21, 2011)

Those seats look really comfortable. I wanted to go with some like those but they were $99 or something each at gander mountain and I found a deal on mine at Sportsmans Guide for $26 each. I still had too much stuff to buy. Anyway great job on your boat! I like the transom divider with the fish measure.


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## devilmutt (Jul 21, 2011)

Great looking Starcraft!


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