# Tracker 17'L54"W Jon Modification



## dunk50 (Apr 13, 2009)

This is a 2008 Tracker Grizzly that is all welded. It's 17+ feet long and has a 74" beam with a 54" floor. I have done a lot of work on boats and this is as solid a hull as I have worked with. Maybe not as pretty but definitely as solid. i'll post a few before photos and then a few after. I am very pleased with the way it came out.


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## dunk50 (Apr 13, 2009)

After pictures. I am kind of proud. This floor plan took a lot of thought. I will try and explain a few and my reasoning. 1st, you will notice that the storage i added to the rear of the front deck does not go all the way across. With the rod racks I installed I can store an 8 1/2 foot rod. Also I chose to go with a NEW style Motorguide. It's the varimax #55 which is a digital 12 volt. Thus one large battery which I put in the front to balance it out a little. This also makes it easy for running the heavy power cable. Also I went with the tiller Merc. on purpose. This gives me much more room and you need to understand that in this area we do not have huge lakes like Kentucky or Barclay. I get get across any in less than 5 minutes. In some of the photos you will see the key ignition switch and tilt and trim on the starboard side of the boat. When I am sitting in the drivers seat it is natural to reach behind me with one hand to start or tilt motor. I also installed a tilt and trim switch at the bow. On the port side I installed a control panel with plenty of switches and a built in TinyTach. The TT gives me hours on motor and RPMS when motor is running. Theres more but I don't want to bore you with a book.


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## kjo43 (Apr 14, 2009)

that thing looks great.... love the 60hp tiller - don't see those too often around here.


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## countryboy210 (Apr 14, 2009)

Looks GREAT ! Mighty Fine Job. =D> :USA1:


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## Brine (Apr 14, 2009)

nice. nice. nice.

=D>


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## seaarc (Apr 14, 2009)

Nice work man that is a great boat to start with, nice and wide.

Dave


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## INGrandad (Apr 14, 2009)

That's a really sweet hull and you've done it proud. Boy, I could kill some carp with the bow from a stable platform like that.


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## ilinimud (Apr 14, 2009)

Dude, thats awesome. Tons of space!!


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## daltonmcgill (Apr 14, 2009)

sweet i like wat u did with the baskets under the seats =D>


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## Zum (Apr 14, 2009)

I really like your mods.Made them work for you and your style of fishing.
Bet she scats right along with that 60hp.
Do you sit in the chair when motoring?


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## dunk50 (Apr 14, 2009)

There are three different seat mounts. I just take the seat and move it to the starboard mount. simple and works for me.


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## VA Bassin (Apr 14, 2009)

any pics of how you made front and back storage area?? i have 14ft grizzly and tryin to get ideas!


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## dunk50 (Apr 15, 2009)

sorry no. The back was easy. Just needed a piece of plywood to span between the side extensions. Hinged to the transom and installed a piece of aluminum angle on the back of the seat. Only photos are the ones I posted.


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## baptistpreach (Apr 15, 2009)

Fantastic design, and you could write a 'book' all day, and you wouldn't bore me! Your hull is in WAY better shape than mine (17fter) but it'll be good as new when I'm done! I'm planning on doing mine, and I love your ideas. You did great, and I love the baskets. Do they ever get in your way with your feet? I seem to put mine under my chair regularly. Thanks for sharing! Do you have any idea what you spent on the mod?


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## dunk50 (Apr 15, 2009)

Nope the baskets don't get in the way. They are rectangle and not fastened at all. The skinny side allows feet under without a problem. When are you starting yours. AS far as price i could guess but a lot of the stuff i already had. It's really just carpet and wood and a lot of stainless steel screws and fasteners. And don't forget the WIRE, that stuff ain't cheap. It was probably more expensive that I know but I could not find what I want. I like the 7 1/2 floor that is wide open. I do have a large cooler that i put in the middle and strap it down like a battery box but most of the time it's out. I am working on a portable live well!!


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## dunk50 (May 28, 2009)

I take the seat off the pedestal at put in on the immediate top of the seat on the starboard side. if it's a short trip which mine normally are, i just set on the aluminum carpeted seat. So far so good. haven't had to change a thing and am happy with the tiller on the 60 as well as the trolling motorguide on the front. Thanks for all the positive comments!! Dunk =D>


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## fish devil (May 28, 2009)

:twisted: Great looking mods...You did a hell of a job. =D> Good luck with her.


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## Waterwings (May 28, 2009)

Great job! Also like the seat pedastal mount basket idea! 8)


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## LarryA (May 29, 2009)

Really nice job. That should be a great fishing boat.


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## Dave Deutsch (May 29, 2009)

First off, GREAT JOB! I've got a 1650 Xpress that is a similar build.

Second, do you have jack plate on the motor? Or is it just mounted up high in the transom? Just curious, looks like she is riding higher which would be great for the skinny water.

Third, 
Do you have Power T&T on the motor? Or does it have lift assist? Just curious. I have lift assist on my 2003 Merc 4 Stroke and it sure helps.

Once again, nice rig!


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## dunk50 (May 30, 2009)

Nope no jack plate. I was going for simple and like I said earlier, I don't have enough big water to need top speed. I mounted it high on the transom. It does have tilt and trim and yea I can get into some skinny water, at least more so that my Ranger. With the flat bottom, modified V it does jump on plane pretty quick even fully loaded. Still breaking in the motor though so I don't have numbers yet.

Actually I read somewhere that the cavitation plate should be level with the bottom of the boat. That is where I set it and so far so good! Doing that automatically set it a little high.


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## Quacker Jacker (Aug 15, 2009)

Great looking rig, and great work on the modifications.

I'm looking to add a similar storage extension to the deck on my 18 ft. G3. It is very similar to the tracker front deck. How did you attach your deck extension to the front deck? It looks very smooth and I don't see any hinges, I'm trying to visualize how you attached the hinges, and lid to the rear of the front deck.

Thanks


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## dunk50 (Aug 16, 2009)

At this point I am unable to post in more photos. Son has Mac a little screwed up. If you look close it does have piano hinges. i'l try and get this photo thing fixed and post some photos. Thanks for the compliments.


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## Quacker Jacker (Aug 16, 2009)

yea I figured it had piano hinges, just wondering if you connected them directly from the deck to the lid, or did you attach the hinges to a brace that you put on the deck first? Similarly, if your deck extension is made from plywood, did you attach the hinges to the top, bottom, or side (thickness) of the lid?

Thanks


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## dunk50 (Aug 19, 2009)

Sorry , gotcha now. I pop riveted directly to the front deck and the lids lay directly on the storage area. Very very sold. I figured the front deck would always be carpeted, at least as long as I have it. In more detail, just below the hinges that are attached to the lids I have another aluminum L channel that is part of the storage box. This way the lid hinges support weight but then the lids when closed are also sitting on the L channel aluminum that is also riveted to the front deck. I still don't have photo capability, sorry.


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## Quacker Jacker (Aug 19, 2009)

Ok, now I think I see. So the piano hinges are attached to the "width" of the plywood lids. ie: they are not attached to the top or to the underside...rather, they are folded in half and attached on one side to the deck and on the other side to the width (bow side) of the plywood lids.

Is there any kind of noticeable gap between the deck and the lids that may let water in? I'm sure there has to be some gap, but I'm guessing it's not the bad.


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## dunk50 (Aug 19, 2009)

Yep, sounds like you got it. No gap, carpet on both sides pretty much takes care of that. I am sure water could seep in but it sure won't run in!! The carpet is actually rubber backed so it is one big gasket! :wink: Just Bimini top that I will eventually enclose. Totally removable but at my age a little shade on those long days on the water is great. Also in the cold weather when salmon fishing a little cabin with heat is heaven!


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## dyeguy1212 (Aug 19, 2009)

I cant quite wrap my head around this hinge explanation, but if you get around to some close up shots, itd really help me out!


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## dunk50 (Aug 19, 2009)

Sorry but photos are going to be a while. I will try it again. First I riveted a piece of 1 1/4 aluminum angle the entire width of the front deck and this was about 1 inch below the lip of the deck. This in effect made a 1 1/4 inch lip sticking out from the front deck about an inch below the lip. I then riveted a piano hinge so that the barrel was just above the front deck and again this was all the way across the deck. The other half of the piano hinge screw directly into the back side of the lid. Without the aluminum angle for the lid to rest on it would have been a very weak point. As is, the weight of the lids is born by the 1 1/4 aluminum angle and the hinge just performs a hinge function. Sorry, best I can do!


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## TrackerTom (Aug 20, 2009)

Really great looking boat. Nice work. It's kind of hard to see in the pics. Which holes are your motor mounted in to get the height you have it set at? I have my 40 mounted in the middle holes and was curious what you did.


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## dunk50 (Aug 20, 2009)

Motor has five holes. Mine is mounted in the second hole from the bottom. That actually puts the anti cavitation plate even with the bottom of the boat. Runs real well as long as I have the motor level or tucked in a little with trim at take off. If I have it trimmed up at all I get a LITTLE blowout but not much. Still under break in for the 60 so I have not had it flat out yet.


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## huntinfool (Aug 20, 2009)

Great job! Amazing what a little thinking in advance will allow you to do.


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## TrackerTom (Aug 20, 2009)

dunk50 said:


> Motor has five holes. Mine is mounted in the second hole from the bottom. That actually puts the anti cavitation plate even with the bottom of the boat. Runs real well as long as I have the motor level or tucked in a little with trim at take off. If I have it trimmed up at all I get a LITTLE blowout but not much. Still under break in for the 60 so I have not had it flat out yet.



What a hoot. Mine's in the middle holes and is dead even with the bottom with the cavitation plate parallel with the bottom of the hull. I've wanted to try it up one more hole because the plate still runs under the water when on a plane and I'd like to get it to skim the surface. Do you know where yours runs in relation to the surface when on plane?

Tom


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## dunk50 (Aug 20, 2009)

Damn I hate it when I am wrong. Didn't want to give you bad information soeee! I just leveled the boat and rechecked. With a 4' level on the bottom of the boat it runs under the cavitation plate exactly 1/4 inch. That is to say the cavitation plate is 1/4 inch above the bottom of the boat. Like I said though, I have not had a problem. I am with you though, would love to have the Merc. Smartcraft gauge package for water pressure , tach etc. Just can't afford it right now. I haven't even been able to find a tach like you found. Sorry if i gave you bad info.


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