# Are you stern heavy?



## Country Dave (Jan 10, 2013)

_Are you stern heavy? 

How much weight is on your stern? I’m running a big motor because I have it. I’m installing float pods to help with the heavy motor and to run and float as skinny as possible. The motor is 400 lbs give or take a pound. The electric/hydraulic Jack plate weighs in at about 50lbs. But that’s it, fuel and battery are midship. This is on an all welded 1752 Lowe Roughneck Mod V.
Tell me about your Jon, is it stern heavy and how it performs. Thanks. _


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## RiverBottomOutdoors (Jan 10, 2013)

Curious what you're running on 1752 that weighs 400lbs? I bet she scoots.


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## RAMROD (Jan 10, 2013)

I will venture a guess and say a Yamaha 115 HP four stroke. :mrgreen:


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## Country Dave (Jan 10, 2013)

_Good guess RAMROD,
:mrgreen: 
Yes a Yamaha 115 four stroke. RBO the build is not complete yet, hoping to splash her early March. Funny thing is even the little four strokes are heavy. The new Merc 75 HP four stroke weighs 399 pounds dry. My Yamaha 115 weighs 401lbs. _


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## RiverBottomOutdoors (Jan 10, 2013)

Country Dave said:


> _Good guess RAMROD,
> :mrgreen:
> Yes a Yamaha 115 four stroke. RBO the build is not complete yet, hoping to splash her early March. Funny thing is even the little four strokes are heavy. The new Merc 75 HP four stroke weighs 399 pounds dry. My Yamaha 115 weighs 401lbs. _




Derp! Yammy 115 is in your signature! #-o


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## RAMROD (Jan 10, 2013)

Sorry couldn’t pass that one up! 8) 
I agree on the four strokes! Have a 9.8 Nissan with electric start, don't know the excat weight but that thing is heavy!


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## Bass n flats (Jan 10, 2013)

I have the same boat except it is a 1990. When I got it the previous owner had an early 80's 80hp 2stroke. Not sure of the exact weight but I would guess 250-300lbs. It made the stern sit super low. I never ran the boat setup like this so I cant give my opinion but by judging the water line on the boat this was not the optimum setup. The water line came 3/4 up the side of the boat at the transom.


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## Country Dave (Jan 11, 2013)

Bass n flats said:


> I have the same boat except it is a 1990. When I got it the previous owner had an early 80's 80hp 2stroke. Not sure of the exact weight but I would guess 250-300lbs. It made the stern sit super low. I never ran the boat setup like this so I cant give my opinion but by judging the water line on the boat this was not the optimum setup. The water line came 3/4 up the side of the boat at the transom.



_Thanks Bass n flats,

What motor are you running now? The float pods are supposed to support 200lbs. If I understand their claim correctly its saying, “that with the float pods installed you can add 200lbs to the transom without increasing the boats draft” 

So if that’s true, and it sounds reasonable it would be just like running a 200lbs motor. Besides I’m going to have the rest of the weight balanced out as best as possible. Trolling motor on the bow, 12 volt trolling motor battery up front under the deck, console will be midship if not a little bit closer to the front deck, starter battery under the console and fuel tank in front of the bench seat. 
I’m hoping this will be a pretty good set up. _


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## cva34 (Jan 11, 2013)

..Most older boats were not designed for the stresses Jack plates put on Transom( not just the weight but the 5" setback and the extra height) combined creat a lot more stress on transom ..Then there is another factor that is HP/weight ratio..When most /all older boats were produced they were designed with a 2s in in mind.. 4s were for cars.Well with new tec 4s are becomeing the std and in general are heavier 50 # or more...Extra stress is also while trailering too .My 2c says watch your behind( Transom) for cracks...cva34


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## Poormans Boatright (Jan 11, 2013)

Dave, I know you already bought the Beavertail pods, but if you are really concerned about being heavy in the rear, here's what I would. I would build a rear section like the one Gator Trax offers: Their hunting deck https://www.gatortraxboats.com/p-95-hunt-deck-sport-model.aspx It wouldn't be hard to build and you can make it as long as you want. Not only would you add floation to the back of the boat, you will be adding overall length to the hull itself, creating a longer, more stable boat for the 115 to push. Plus it would give more room to hunt/fish on. I think it looks really cool too. I added float pods to my 14'er years back, I'm gonna get it going again here soon, and I am thinking about cutting the pods off and adding a rear deck like this. Reason being is I'm gonna be adding a air motor to it for flounder fishing and could the extra room and floatation.


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## shallowminedid (Jan 11, 2013)

dave sounds like ur having the same probs i am. i just went from a 60/40 jet to a 115/80 yamaha on my 17 footer. new one weighs every bit of 406 lbs. sat real low in the water, and under slow speed ud think the stern was goin under. moved the 24 gal tank and 4 batteries to under the deck made it a bit better but still got too much junk in the trunk. was lookin into beavertail pods but i cant get a price from them directly, they dont like phones or email evidently. cabelas has them on sale for a decent price or i was looking into having a shop custom build them for me since i need to get them welded on anyway. the susky is only 3-4 feet for 200 miles so every bit of floatation helps. ive heard some people say they cause problems for jets. others swear by them. but for a few hundred what else could make it anybetter


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## Badbagger (Jan 11, 2013)

Dave, kinda why I'd asked in your build thread... when I bought the SeaArk here recently that I'll be picking up, I contacted SeaArk about the rating. They told me the boat is rated for a 140 which as all well and good due to the stress put on the stern etc. Of equal concern was what weight engine the transom/hull is rated for. 

One of the biggest reasons our tinnies ride like crap and even the mod v hull is due to the design in general and that a fair amount of tinnies ride bow high which is a bad thing unless you want your fillings knocked loose. Between the engine weight, battery weigh, fuel (if your tank/tanks are in the stern) you have a pretty good amount of weight back there. The pods will give you a lot of stability when you're sitting still etc. but not so much running. Fortunately, the SeaArk fuel cell is in the bow so that will help a LOT. Batteries are in the stern and I may move them forward. I think the Etec 115 weight is 375 I'm going to put on the boat which is an 1872.

Speaking of stern heavy....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nhmN5um1LzA&feature=player_embedded


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## Country Dave (Jan 11, 2013)

cva34 said:


> ..Most older boats were not designed for the stresses Jack plates put on Transom( not just the weight but the 5" setback and the extra height) combined creat a lot more stress on transom ..Then there is another factor that is HP/weight ratio..When most /all older boats were produced they were designed with a 2s in in mind.. 4s were for cars.Well with new tec 4s are becomeing the std and in general are heavier 50 # or more...Extra stress is also while trailering too .My 2c says watch your behind( Transom) for cracks...cva34




_Thanks for the insight,

Well I do understand the concept however I am rebuilding/modifying my transom. It’s for the most part going to be bullet proof. If you check my build you can see I’ve backed the original transom up with a piece of 0.125 3033 aluminum, I also replace the wood core with two pieces of ¾ in 5 ply hardwood sealed up in epoxy resin. I’ve also replace the flimsy front cap with another piece of 0.125. In addition I’ve made it a full transom instead of the ¾ that came out. It will be tied into the side boxes by welding 90o brackets between the transom and side boxes. I am also in the process of adding two floor to transom support so it will now have three instead of just one. I am also adding one 2x2 peace of 0.125 on the back of the transom in front of the jack plate. 

When the first four strokes came on the market o I guess it’s been a good 12 to 15 years now they were very heavy, I don’t agree with 50% heavier but yes considerably heavier than the two strokes maybe 25% heaver. Anyway that’s not the case anymore. Here is the scenario, my model year 1999 Jon needs to be repowered. Let’s just say I’m a diehard Merc guy I’m not but you know what I’m saying. I go to my dealer and say I want to buy a 70hp OptiMax because my hull is only rated for 80hp max and he says ok cool here you go. How much dos that the motor weigh sir? 375lbs dry. O ok how about the 75HP four stroke? 399lbs dry. 
So I ether buy the motor I want or, I start looking for a 1980s through 1990s two stroke. My Yamaha 115 weights in at 401lbs, so I’m not overly concerned about the weight being too much for the boat to handle, just concerned about the draft, that’s why I’m installing the float pods. Beside the HP rating on any motor is max HP it’s only going to put it all out at a very high RPM maybe not redline but for sure up high in the rpm range. _


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## Country Dave (Jan 11, 2013)

_shallowminedid I got my through Cabela's.com_


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## Country Dave (Jan 11, 2013)

_BB I’ve seen that clip before. :LOL2: he has that motor trimmed up as far as it will go, forcing the bow up. _


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## Country Dave (Jan 11, 2013)

_PB those things are very freaking cool. =D> 
I wish I would have know about them before I bought my float pods. Maybe next build. _


https://www.gatortraxboats.com/p-95-hunt-deck-sport-model.aspx


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## Bass n flats (Jan 11, 2013)

Country Dave said:


> Bass n flats said:
> 
> 
> > I have the same boat except it is a 1990. When I got it the previous owner had an early 80's 80hp 2stroke. Not sure of the exact weight but I would guess 250-300lbs. It made the stern sit super low. I never ran the boat setup like this so I cant give my opinion but by judging the water line on the boat this was not the optimum setup. The water line came 3/4 up the side of the boat at the transom.
> ...



Right now I am running a 25 hp tiller. I would prefer to have a 35 but budget and availability I settled for the 25. It pops me up on plane quick and I can run solo at 24-24mph. It sits really leveling the water.


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## cva34 (Jan 11, 2013)

C Dave you mentioned that I said 50% heavier and you disagree ,I would TOO .I said 50# (lbs ) or more..Sounds like you put alot into Transom, stiffer stronger probably,But heavier Too..Compounding your problem..Just a thought consider a Yammy 90 hp 2s you could lighten up almost 150#.They are bulletproof and lots around.Only 261#.Only problem there no longer Manufactured. Wider would solve your problem and I can't tell you how to get short of......cva34


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## Country Dave (Jan 11, 2013)

cva34 said:


> C Dave you mentioned that I said 50% heavier and you disagree ,I would TOO .I said 50# (lbs ) or more..Sounds like you put alot into Transom, stiffer stronger probably,But heavier Too..Compounding your problem..Just a thought consider a Yammy 90 hp 2s you could lighten up almost 150#.They are bulletproof and lots around.Only 261#.Only problem there no longer Manufactured. Wider would solve your problem and I can't tell you how to get short of......cva34



_ :LOL2: I didn’t know the number sign was for lbs. My bad. I thought you were trying to say percentage. Never the less it is what it is. Anyway I would love to have a new Yamaha F70 four stroke but I just don’t have the extra 7K right now. That’s what you’re going to pay if you want one with power tilt and trim. 

Yes I could look for a used one but in the immortal words of Forest Gump, you never know what you’re going to get. Even with good compression test results does not insure you of too much. I know what I have now, a sweet 2003 Yamaha 115 fore stroke with less than 100 hours on it. Is it a little heavy yeh but with the float pods, batters, console and fuel tank midship I really don’t think I’m going to have an issue. I welded the float pods on tonight, just got done. Pics tomorrow on my rebuild thread._


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## cva34 (Jan 11, 2013)

Your giveing it your best shot.Got my fingers crossed too....cva34


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## Badbagger (Jan 12, 2013)

Hey Dave, if that sweet 115 is too heavy I'll take it off your hands lol.

I'm repowering "TheArk" here before spring. I'm rigged for an Etec. I got a price on a new 115 Etec of $7k, yes $7k plus $200 install and tax. Another Etec/Yammie dealer called BS.. he could not match the price, not even close. Same dealer gave me a hell of a price on a 2013 F115 of $8600 plus tax with all brand new rigging, water separators yada yada. Yammies are a hell of an engine but so are the Etecs. The new ones are as quiet as any 4 stroke I have heard even my Yamaha 90 on my G3. Etec comes with a 6 year warranty while the Yammie comes with a 5 year warranty under the current promos. I can do a LOT to my boat for $1600 and have the extra year of warranty as well. Leaning towards the Etec as of right now.


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## JustinNC (Jan 14, 2013)

Stern heavy on a Lowe Big Jon 1648. Six gallon gas tank and battery behind back (only) bench in my boat and north of 300lbs of captain running a tiller handle 50hp Mariner. Getting ready to have surgery to hopefully curb that captain weight by a hundred and some change, but still heavy regardless.


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## Country Dave (Jan 15, 2013)

JustinNC said:


> Stern heavy on a Lowe Big Jon 1648. Six gallon gas tank and battery behind back (only) bench in my boat and north of 300lbs of captain running a tiller handle 50hp Mariner. Getting ready to have surgery to hopefully curb that captain weight by a hundred and some change, but still heavy regardless.




_Hey Justin, thanks for the reply brother. 

First and foremost I’m glad you’re being conscious about your health. You will be and feel so much better when you’re at a healthy weight. Well battery probably weighs 40 to 50lbs, 6 gal of fuel at about 6.2 is almost 40lbs just a guess but your motor probably weighs 250lbs.
So that’s like 340lbs and because it’s a tiller you’re probably sliding back at bit on the bench so, Cap at 300, batt, fuel and motor at say 340 for a grand total of 640lbs at or near the stern. So that weight and it only being 48 wide I can see for sure it being a little stern heavy.

I need to weight my jack plate it feels pretty heavy, I think between 40 and 50lbs. My motor is 401but fuel; batteries, console and cooler are all forward. Considering that and the float pods I think I’m going to be ok. I’m going to do a float test shortly. Just going to put her in the lake naked and mark the water line at the back of the transom when she is at rest, them my 215 pound butt and my friend who ways almost 200 are going to stand on the float pods and see how much the draft changes. 
This will give me an idea anyway. I really think between everything being forward whatever that number is going to decrease once I get her rigged. Thanks again for your reply._


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## JustinNC (Jan 15, 2013)

My tank is actually infront of the back bench, but up against the bench. It certainly is stern heavy and makes me glad I have electronic trim and a hydrofoil. She'll do 31 with just me and my stuff...26-27 on an average day, 2 people, crappie fishing, or if there is a little chop on the water. 

I need to reevaluate my tank situation. I would like for them to be behind the bench, but there isn't enough room. I would also like to put some hatches in the bench for storage of some sort but dont want to add weight. Trying to figure out if maybe putting the battery and a storage box for my other odds and ends of insignificant weight. 

Not to hijack your thread, but I wonder if the bench can be moved forward. Ill have to check dimensions.


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## Country Dave (Jan 15, 2013)

JustinNC said:


> My tank is actually infront of the back bench, but up against the bench. It certainly is stern heavy and makes me glad I have electronic trim and a hydrofoil. She'll do 31 with just me and my stuff...26-27 on an average day, 2 people, crappie fishing, or if there is a little chop on the water.
> 
> I need to reevaluate my tank situation. I would like for them to be behind the bench, but there isn't enough room. I would also like to put some hatches in the bench for storage of some sort but dont want to add weight. Trying to figure out if maybe putting the battery and a storage box for my other odds and ends of insignificant weight.
> 
> Not to hijack your thread, but I wonder if the bench can be moved forward. Ill have to check dimensions.



_Al good,
Have you considered float pods? The time effort and resources to move the bench forward may end up not being such a great return on your investment, I don’t know. Why not invest in something you know will help support the extra weight. Besides if you’re running with a tiller you would have to get a tiller extension, not that they are expensive, but they don’t steer as tight when you get further away. _


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## JustinNC (Jan 15, 2013)

Country Dave said:


> JustinNC said:
> 
> 
> > My tank is actually infront of the back bench, but up against the bench. It certainly is stern heavy and makes me glad I have electronic trim and a hydrofoil. She'll do 31 with just me and my stuff...26-27 on an average day, 2 people, crappie fishing, or if there is a little chop on the water.
> ...



Never thought much about it, but after I mentioned moving the bench, I had thought about putting it where the front bench used to be, and putting a seat pedistal where I needed to be for the tiller handle(obviosuly after re-doing the floor)but the dimensions of the boat won't allow now that I think about it. I was just thinking it would be a good aluminum locker with little to no money in it, but like you say, more trouble than it's worth. 

I have given the pods a little thought, but I havent had the disposable income to give them a serious look. Tax time is here, so I may give them a little harder look, but right now, my main concern is extending the front deck and putting storage hatches in it, and a new trolling motor. I can live with the transom weight for now. I get a little overwash at the transom if I kill the throttle from wide open to nothing all at once, and OCCASIONALLY backing in/taking out if the lake is rough or if there is wake. Nothing I can't deal with. Never take any other wise, and even taking a big wake from behind doesn't do it. Just killing the motor all at once (transom heavy it will squat and slam the breaks when you let off as you know) and backing it in when the lake is rough. Certainly not enough to cause concern for the areas and conditions I fish. I wouldn't want to get stranded when it's blowing 40+ straight down the lake and get my stern in the wind, but if that were the case, I'd drop anchor off the bow, until help arrive. Even if it didn't hold, it would keep the bow in the wind. 

I like the idea of the float pods.


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