# Alright, here we go...



## MRichardson (Sep 9, 2011)

Finally got a chance to go pick up an old 14' Orlando Clipper (circa 65, best we can tell) that belonged to my grandfather. I rode around in this boat as a kid, it's been sitting for 20 years behind my uncle's shed. Here's a pic or 2 (I'll save the more in-depth one's for the build/restoration - also, these are the only ones uploaded to PB as of right this second):











This is going to be my project for the next few months. I have an old mid-90s Mercury tiller that I need to find out if it still works, or what needs to be done to get it in working order. In 2002, it ran perfectly... then it was put on the floor of my dad's garage and has sat there untouched since. I expect there will be some cleaning/removal of old fluids and such - really don't know much about motors. But hope to learn. I think it'll fly with that motor on it.

The hull is in great shape, considering. Small patches of pitting in a few areas, where I think the rotting leaves were up against it, but I can rub it out by hand if I wanted to. Discoloration, as well. Not much paint left on it (I started to strip it back in 1992 or so, guess I got further than I thought).

I intend to give it a tan color on the hull, maybe steelflex it, give it clean simple decks and be ready to go. Is there a better product for cleaning aluminum than stripper? There's not much paint, but I wonder if any chemicals/oils got in there from the leaves rotting inside the boat.

Anyway. Step 1 and 2 are this weekend. Build transom, find o/b mechanic.


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## RatherBFishin (Sep 9, 2011)

There is a product called Aluminator that removes aluminum oxide and shines up the hull really nice. Give it a try. Good luck with your build!


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## Ictalurus (Sep 9, 2011)

Very nice boat, looks deep.


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## nomowork (Sep 9, 2011)

Wow, what a great project!

Earlier this year, I also picked up an aluminum boat that sat for 20+ years in someone's backyard, uncovered. I ground down hull and painted. Surprisingly both motors that came with the boat fired up and ran although the 20hp died off and on but the 4hp ran without any hiccups! 

Good luck on the project!


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## MRichardson (Nov 11, 2011)

Been figuring out the best way to remove the oxidation on this old boat. Paint hasn't been an issue, it seem so to have worn away a long time ago. But lots of oxidation and discoloration, especially inside where leaves had fallen. I decided to try the wire cup brush route and have not looked back. With a light touch it really seems to get the job done the fastest (there's even a wire bristle tool for my dremel tool, so corners should be easier to come back to and touch up). Here it is in progress:





















The transom is a "temporary" one that I used a) to test run the engine on a local lake (fast as hell), and b) hold the engine until I build a quick engine stand. I will be creating a proper transom with plywood, spar urethane and a sealant (between it and the boat) very soon. First I gotta build that engine stand to get that thing off of there.


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## nomowork (Nov 11, 2011)

Looking good!

I love projects, but unfortunately don't have anymore room.


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## MRichardson (Nov 18, 2011)

BTW, that 25 merc makes this boat FLY. And thanks for the info on the aluminator product RatherBFishing. It could save me some time on the areas that dont' really need the grinder.


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## Bhockins (Nov 18, 2011)

Great project. The history makes it a labor of love. 

Please post how the Aluminator product works for you. Before and After pics if you can. I've been reluctant to even start shining up my hull because it such a big job. 

But if the Aluminator works I'll go that route.


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## MRichardson (Feb 2, 2012)

Well, havent' updated in a while but been working on it off and on thru the holidays. Mostly grinding. I hope I never have to buy a wire cup brush again. I don't want to even think how many hours it has taken to do this whole boat, top to bottom. But it leaves a great surface for painting, and I'm sure this will the be the only and last time I go thru it.

And advice to all - wear long sleeves when using an angle grinder! I knew this, but chose to do things the hard way:






Yeah, it hurt as much as it looks. Handle on the grinder broke in the middle of using it..so it dropped down, bounced off the boat and spun up over my arm. Healed nicely but it'll leave a permanent scar I'm sure. 

I've only got the rear bottom section of the boat to go as far as removing paint, looks like painting will commence next weekend. In the meantime, I cut the new transom pieces, stained them, and have been coating with spar urethane. However many will go on by Saturday (at least 3).

Here's the inside piece:





And the outside:





Both are 3/4" oak ply, stained with a walnut color, and liberally painted with spar urethane. In addition to these 2 pieces, there will be one more solid 1/2" piece going across the top inside of the stern. There are two brackets on the inside rear of the gunwales that brace the ends of this 3rd piece, and it will also be bolted through the other two. The transom should be strong as hell at that point.

I took it out on a chain of lakes a week ago and the motor started 1st pull every time, with about as much effort as starting a weed eater. No noticeable leaks (there was some water in the boat, but I may have brought that in with me). After I'm all done sanding I'll do a final leak check in the driveway. Prime it and paint it tan, then fish in the damn thing.

Spring comes early to Orlando, and this project just went into overdrive.


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## Jdholmes (Feb 2, 2012)

Looks like a nice beefy transom! 

Dang that arm does look painful, but at least you will have a great battle scar...

The boy has never left me when it comes to that, I love a good scar. 

It's warming up in Nevada, too...it's got me amped to go!


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## JamesM56alum (Feb 2, 2012)

Very nice betcha that thing flys across the water, and as far as the grinder rash welcome to the club lol happens to me atleast twice a month bro!


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## MRichardson (Feb 2, 2012)

We hit 28 mph with two 225-230 lb-ers in the boat. Cav plate hangs a little low under the keel with the temporary transom, should lift it up an inch or so with the new one. I'm anxious to see what I get alone, and with a little less of the lower unit in the water. 

But even at 28, hell, that's pretty quick.


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## JamesM56alum (Feb 2, 2012)

lol damn man, iv only got a 5.5 and i can only get around 10mph with it screaming  for right now im lookin for a 15-20 horse and keep the 5.5 for a spare, i cant wait till income taxes come back cause the boat is going to get a complete make over!


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## JMichael (Feb 3, 2012)

Wow, 28mph with 2 good size guys is pretty darn good. On my initial run before I started my rebuild, I could only manage 20mph by myself with a 20hp Merc. 

I know the oak looks nice but having used a lot of it on furniture projects, I've never seen any oak ply that was exterior rated. So you know I gotta ask, was it exterior rated ply?


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## MRichardson (Feb 3, 2012)

Yeah, that's what it said (ext rated). I was careful about that after reading so many posts on here about which type to use. I stumbled across it on accident and figured, hell, might as well get this as it looks so nice. Later it occurred to me that most of it won't be visible as it will be under the rear deck. Oh well, at least what can be seen will look good.


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## MRichardson (Feb 3, 2012)

Bhockins said:


> Great project. The history makes it a labor of love.
> 
> Please post how the Aluminator product works for you. Before and After pics if you can. I've been reluctant to even start shining up my hull because it such a big job.
> 
> But if the Aluminator works I'll go that route.



Forgot to respond to this... I tried it, but I guess the oxidation was too much. Between rubbing it on, letting it sit and taking it off, turns out to be faster to just go at it with a 4" wire cup brush. Maybe because the coating is so old/thick. I can see how it brightens up cleaner/fresher surfaces.. but for my purposes, I had best results with the wire brush.


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## arkansasnative (Feb 3, 2012)

That is a really nice looking boat! Normally i'm not into V-hulls but i like the simple clean lines of this one and that transom is gonna look sharp! The speed is nice too!


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## MRichardson (Feb 6, 2012)

This past weekend just about wrapped up the work with the wire brush. Just a small patch left on the starboard underside, should take about 30 minutes. I can't wait to put the angle grinder away for good (at least for this purpose)!

Shiny enough?





















My brother was helping, for some reason he took a lot longer to finish his side than I did:






I'm really looking forward to putting on the primer next week.


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## fool4fish1226 (Feb 9, 2012)

Looks great I agree the clean up part is the worst


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## MRichardson (Feb 29, 2012)

Finally wrapped up the sanding (wire-brushing) and it looks great and ready for paint & steelflex.






I'll be putting steelflex on the bottom, the transom, and about 3" up the sides (past the seams). It hasn't arrived yet, so I decided to do what I could do - put the primer on the sides, where it will be painted with Parker's Duck Boat in sand tan. I couldn't wait for this part after all that scuffing/grinding/sanding... Got her flipped, in the garage, and all masked up:














Using the same stuff as many others on here for primer:






Then the fun part began. Let me tell you, this green painter's type is the $#t. Cleanest lines I've ever had working with tape like this, I recommend it. It's called Frog painter's tape...supposed for form some kind of reacive barrier in addition to just masking the part you don't want painted. Whatever, it worked very well. Primer went on real nice, got 3 coats and it's already looking better. This color ain't bad at all:






















The Parker's will be here this weekend, steelflex maybe by Sat, definitely early next week. 

The weather is getting too good to not be fishing, I have to get at least the exterior done so I can put the reg numbers and sticker on.

I have one question for you guys that have already used steelflex and masked off certain parts of your boat - is it pretty much the same as paint with regard to how easy it is to pull up the tape after it's put on? How long do you wait (I sure don't want to epoxy the tape to my boat). I'm guessing it's sort of a "test it and see" method to figure out the best time...


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## fool4fish1226 (Mar 1, 2012)

Man those are some really clean lines!!!!!! The boat is lookin good =D>


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## MRichardson (Mar 10, 2012)

Rest of the exterior paint came in last week. Parker's Duck Boat Tan for the outside, Steelflex for the bottom. Spent about an hour taping, prepping, 10 minutes painting, then another 45 minutes cleaning up. The Parker's is solvent-based, so wait time is loooonnnng between stints. 

The new (and final) color:






It goes on real well. I used an airless sprayer and and found it worked fine, as long as you DO NOT LET THE PAINT LEVEL GET LOW!





One side done. Took about 3 minutes. Already very happy with the color.





After about an hour of drying, it's already looking nice and flat.









Several more coats during the week, and I'll be putting on the Steelflex next weekend.


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## MRichardson (Apr 3, 2012)

Steelflex is done.


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## MRichardson (Apr 3, 2012)

Color came out perfect. I picked up some brown tint at West Marine.


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## fool4fish1226 (Apr 6, 2012)

Paint/Steelflex turned out great =D> Now let the fun begin


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## arkansasnative (Apr 6, 2012)

Looks great! What is that oval riveted to the side for? Was it a logo or a patch or something?


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## Gramps50 (Apr 6, 2012)

Looking really good


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## MRichardson (Apr 17, 2012)

arkansasnative said:


> Looks great! What is that oval riveted to the side for? Was it a logo or a patch or something?



Yep, that was a logo. I'm looking for a replacement decal, but might just do a stencil.

Another view:


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## bigwave (Apr 18, 2012)

Awesome paint job. =D>


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## JasonLester (Apr 19, 2012)

That wouldn't have been my choice for colors....but I really like it. I jus never would have thought it would turn out that nice with those colors....

Way to Go!!

=D>


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## Gators5220 (May 3, 2012)

Nice start with the paint! =D>


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## MRichardson (May 9, 2012)

Here's a few more taken last weekend. Primer, then application of the Tuff Coat.














I can't decide whether to Tuff Coat the rails, or leave them smooth. I'm leaning toward the latter.
The 2nd coat really makes it look a lot better, especially in the seams and places where the benches meet the floor/sides.


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## Jdholmes (May 9, 2012)

I would probably vote for leaving the rails smooth as well. Of course this is personal preference - I would only have done the floor in it.

Main thing is that it suites you and you are happy being out in it. 

Thumbs up.


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## MRichardson (May 9, 2012)

Thanks! Yeah, that's all I needed to hear. Smooth it is!

After I began the application, I too wished I'd just done the floor. But I wanted teh rubberized stuff on the insides, the sides of the benches - anything that could use some sound-dampening. After I add the decks, most of the inside won't be visible. But I'm planning on making the decks simple and easy to put in/out, so it's gotta be there under them.


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## Jdholmes (May 9, 2012)

I would probably vote for leaving the rails smooth as well. Of course this is personal preference - I would only have done the floor in it.

Main thing is that it suites you and you are happy being out in it. 

Thumbs up.


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## MRichardson (Jan 22, 2013)

Well, from May all thru the summer, I postponed further work because every free moment I got with this thing I went fishing. Then fall/winter came and made the mistake of taking up duck hunting. But, season's nearly over so I have a couple months and will put in some decks, a tiller extension and a grab rail to perfect it for fishing this summer.

Here's what she looks like w/the transom completed (and before I banged up the pretty paint job duck hunting) and engine. Speaking of engines, this boat is fast but porpoises badly when it's just me at the tiller. The battery and gas is all up front, still porpoises. Does the engine look awfully low in this photo? I'm thinking of putting a spacer in to raise it 1.5" to 2" and take it for a test run and see if that improves performance. Already fiddled with the trim settings.






I just copied the shape of the old transom. Perhaps the othe motor mounted differently and got the cav plate higher. Or may since it was a smaller motor it didn't have the same effect. If I like how it runs with the spacer I'll just make a new transom that goes straight across the stern instead of with the notch that it's always had.


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## JMichael (Jan 22, 2013)

The motor looks very low to me. It looks like you have a short transom and a long shaft motor.


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## johnnybassboat (Jan 22, 2013)

Yup motor looks a bit low to me too. raise it up a couple of inches will make a difference I bet. that little boat should really move with that motor hung on back good luck


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## MRichardson (Jan 23, 2013)

JMichael said:


> The motor looks very low to me. It looks like you have a short transom and a long shaft motor.



Yeah, it does look that way in this pic. But I measured the shaft length of the motor and it is definitely 15". I think the angle of the boat/way it's parked on the trailer, plus the tiny low cutout in the transom exaggerates the appearance. Also note that the bottom of the boat is couple inches lower than the bottom of the wooden transom piece.. that also makes it appear at first glance to be even lower. 

But even so, the cav plate is definitely lower than the bottom of the boat, and from what I've gathered here it should be even with it or slightly higher if anything.

Here's a better angle:






Cav plate is a couple inches lower than bottom of hull.

Hot damn, I was gettin 29mph as-is. This should put me over the 30mph mark for sure!


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## JMichael (Jan 23, 2013)

Ah yes, it does look closer in these pics. My motor was a little low when I got my boat and raising it just 1" made enough of a difference that I could tell it.


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## MRichardson (Jan 24, 2013)

I'm going to slip a block in at the top of the transom this weekend and run it and see what happens. It's an easy 2" lift, so I'm looking forward to seeing what happens.


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## MRichardson (May 6, 2013)

Been a while, but finally took the time from working or choosing to fish instead of improving the boat to add a back deck... also put on a tiller extension which is the greatest thing ever. And the newer, higher transom has been dialed in exactly right.














It's removable, floats on the rear bench and four supports made from alum angle and square tubing that don't show in these pics.
It sits flush and looks slick when I don't have a rope under it (no idea why that was there in the pics).

Trying to keep it super-clean and simple. Next step is to to the front, gotta do all the bracing first.
The deck is 1/2" ply, coated w/epoxy resin then covered in Nautilex vinyl. I used contact cement because I am not a patient type, but if you go this route you really need another set of hands with you to ensure the right surfaces touch when/where you want them to. Of course, I did it alone. And learned just exactly how strong that initial bond can be (not stronger than me though).


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