# Alumacraft Model F Mod



## sworrior (Jul 11, 2014)

After trolling around on here for several months, I finally decided to start my Alumacraft 14' Model F Mod.
I received the boat from a relative after it had been abandoned as long as I can remember.
The boat is in pretty solid shape. A bit dirty and the transom boards are rotted/ant infested, but nothing that I can't fix with a bit of elbow grease.
The boat is ~13'9" long and roughly has a roughly 48" beam. I am looking at adding a casting platform on the bow and a bow mount trolling motor as well as nav lights, a bilge pump, and a small outboard.
I will mostly be using the boat for bass fishing on lakes, but may also fish a few rivers now and then for walleye.

I will post as often as possible with pictures and I appreciate everyone's great posts and builds that have given me the confidence to tackle this first-time boat project.


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## bobberboy (Jul 11, 2014)

Looking forward to pics and welcome.


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## huntinfool (Jul 11, 2014)

Look forward to seeing your progress.


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## Kismet (Jul 11, 2014)

Welcome.

Bunch of folks love the F. I'm one of them (see build thread below). Also there's a build thread by a poster nic'd "Dman," as I recall, on an Alumacraft F-7.

Have fun.


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## sworrior (Jul 14, 2014)

Looked on the faq, but luckily I'm better at fishing than I am with computers. I have a bunch of pictures to post, but they're all too large for the message board. Finished cleaning the boat today and got it on a trailer. Pictures to follow...I hope.


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## sworrior (Jul 15, 2014)

Kismet, took a look at your Model F build. Nice! Looking at doing something similar, but I'm not sure where to mount the cigar ash tray. And as a Navy guy, boats do get named. Submarines are boats, but I'm going to try and keep mine above the surface.


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## sworrior (Jul 15, 2014)

Here is a before shotof the bottom after a hosing off and a light scrubbing.


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## sworrior (Jul 15, 2014)

A few more pictures.


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## Kismet (Jul 15, 2014)

Found Dman's model F thread:

viewtopic.php?f=21&t=24959

and one by JamesM56, nice guy, moved down to Florida somewhere:

viewtopic.php?f=21&t=24660&p=252164#p252164url


Enjoy and best wishes.


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## sworrior (Jul 15, 2014)

Finished the trailer the other day. I bought a 16' Haul Master trailer from harborfreight.com [/https://www.harborfreight.com/600... lock-tite, I was ready to test fit the boat.


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## sworrior (Jul 16, 2014)

Finished the power washing of the exterior. I was suprised by how dramatic the results were.


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## sworrior (Jul 16, 2014)

I bought some aluminum cleaner and an aluminum boat polish from my local Bass Pro Shop. I decided not to paint the boat since it cleaned up nicely.
Anyone have any experience with this? 

I want to seal the interior and bought several cans of Rustoleum flex seal. Any thoughts?


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## Kismet (Jul 16, 2014)

Your boat may have been neglected, but it sure doesn't appear to have ever been abused! Very clean for its years. You can check in with Alumacraft if you want to find out the year of manufacture. They are very gracious. Serial # is stamped on the inside transom support.

It's going to clean up wonderfully. Of course Aluminum will always oxidize. FYI, There's a product called "Sharkhide," I believe, that supposedly maintains the just-scrubbed sheen. I think it is pricey and I have never used it.

Nice work.


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## sworrior (Jul 17, 2014)

I was hoping to use this to seal the interior bottom below the waterline. Anyone have any thoughts?


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## sworrior (Jul 17, 2014)

Took off the ant infested transom this evening. I'm going to use the old one as a template. Plan on cutting it out of a sheet of1/4' exterior plywood sealed with marine stain. I'll cut the interior transom board from 2" white oak.
Thanks k for the seriel number location. That'll help get it registered this week.
Any thoughts on the winch and strap placement. I think I'll have an aluminum padeye welded on eventually.


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## Kismet (Jul 17, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=359757#p359757 said:


> sworrior » Today, 00:29[/url]"]I was hoping to use this to seal the interior bottom below the waterline. Anyone have any thoughts?



My personal feeling on that kind of stuff is that I try to avoid putting anything other than paint inside the belly of the beast. Anything with flexibility seems to scrape or rub off, and really, there are usually very few points where rivet leaking will occur and those are best addressed specifically, instead of doing the entire floor surface.

A fair number of folks have used truck bed liner with varying degrees of success. 

Additionally, being inside a black boat on a summer day is the way microwave ovens were invented. 

I've used "Implement Paint," sold for farmers for their equipment--tractors and such. UV safe, thick to go on, smooths to a nice surface, and available in a number of primary colors.

Others will have (probably better-informed) other opinions.

Be safe, have fun.


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## sworrior (Jul 17, 2014)

Finished wiring the trailer this evening and Im in business. Going to put it in the water and check for leaks next week. Next up is figuring out propulsion. Id like to get a bow mount trolling motor for the front deck I plan to build. Going with a 12v system and most seem to be 55lb thrust. Is 45in enough or should I go for a 48in or 54in? In this case I don't think bigger is necessarily better. 
Anyone know if nav lights are required. According to COLREGS, I should only need an all round white light to be displayed in case of oncoming ships, but is it different in state waters?


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## sworrior (Jul 17, 2014)

Got an email from Alumacraft customer service:

Thank you for contacting Alumacraft customer service.  Your boat model F serial number 10181 was built in 1955.  This 14' boat was rated for a maximum of 16 HP and weighed 150 pounds.  The model F was built from 1948 until 1960, after 1960 this boat became the F7.  I have attached the specs from our 1955 catalog featuring your boat to this email for you.The transom wood that was used was typically teak or red oak, there was also a cork board installed between the wood and the aluminum.  The cork board provided a barrier and was also a noise inhibitor.Thanks,Alumacraft Customer Service Support
Wasn't planning on replacing the cork. Is it necessary? If so, I'll probably use rubberized gasket material.


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## sworrior (Jul 20, 2014)

Alumacraft also provided this original Model F brochure.


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## sworrior (Jul 22, 2014)

Finally put the boat in the water today to check for leaks. A few leaks at the seam, but nothing that a little JB Weld and Flexseal couldn't handle. After it dries, I'll put it in again to make sure I got all the leakage.

I wire brushed the aluminum and then cleaned with denatured alcohol to prepare the surface.


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## sworrior (Jul 24, 2014)

Did some trailer adjustments and cut out the new transome templates. Was relieved to finally start the woodworking part of the project. I found some curly white oak I plan on using for the interior transom. The exterior transom was cut out of exterior grade plywood sealed with Olympic deck sealer. I will seal both with marine spar varnish. I cut out a template for the transoms from cheap plywood since the transom pieces were too badly rotted to use as templates.


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## stlbluesfan55 (Jul 24, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=360726#p360726 said:


> sworrior » 24 Jul 2014, 00:12[/url]"]Did some trailer adjustments and cut out the new transome templates. Was relieved to finally start the woodworking part of the project. I found some curly white oak I plan on using for the interior transom. The exterior transom was cut out of exterior grade plywood sealed with Olympic deck sealer. I will seal both with marine spar varnish. I cut out a template for the transoms from cheap plywood since the transom pieces were too badly rotted to use as templates.




Moving right along aren't you? That's a good looking boat you have there. You will soon be able to, well you know what fisherman do. :---)


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## Kismet (Jul 24, 2014)

Swarrior? I think Wisc regs want directional lights up front and tall white light at back from dusk to dawn, but nothing required in daylight. Regs are online if you don't have a pamphlet from some sporting goods counter.

Can't give you an answer on length of trolling motor shaft. They always seem too long for my taste. I don't use mine much. But I'm not much of a fisherman, I just like the boats, motors, and being on the water.

You've tidied your F up nicely. The wood stage is fun. Kind of like making it to the top of a hill. 

Lemme see if I can find stuff...








Be safe, have fun.


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## sworrior (Jul 24, 2014)

Extremely frustrated.

Put the boat in the water for what I thought was a final leak check and the transom seams (where the aft side is riveted to the sides/bottom) are still weeping. Probably need to seal the outside of the seams since there are hundreds of rivets to replace (they're covered by a rib so I can't see which rivets actually leak). I wanted to keep the original look of the boat and not mar it with JB WELD and sanding, but I don't know of any other options. Saw an informertial on Alumaloy (https://www.alumaloy.com/) and was mesmorized, but don't know if it's legitimate. Wanted to avoid painting the entire inside (I agree with Kismet's earlier post). Any thoughts? Most of the weepage was fixed, but there's enough (~6oz/hr) that I'd like to fix it permanently.


Also did a stability check and the boat was pretty wobbly when I walked around on the bench seats. I had hoped to put in a front and rear casting deck, but I don't know anymore. The boat was completely bare and empty (no motor, only me), so I'm not sure if that would add to the stability. If I don't put a casting deck, then it seems like a waste to put in a bow mounted trolling motor, since I'd probably fish from the center. the boat is 54" wide and the seats are 18" from the bottom with 6" of gunwhale over the seats.

One thing to note was the boat only drafted about 1" with me in it and about 1/2" empty according to the guy that works at the base marina that was watching.

Please tinbooat brothers and sisters, you're thoughts on these issues would be appreciated. I did see some other Model F mods, but none had a casting deck that I noticed. Maybe this is the reason.


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## stlbluesfan55 (Jul 24, 2014)

After many many pics of the model F, I have to say this is probable IMHO the best I could find. https://www.pinterest.com/pin/46724914858076370/ or this https://www.pinterest.com/pin/46724914856719357/
But we all know what opinions are like so....


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## sworrior (Jul 24, 2014)

I love the open floor plan but that would mean not having places for the kids (I have five) to fish when a few of them come along. I thought about removing the center seat for a more open floor and maybe remove the front seat as well. This soul mean there would be a bench acting as a lateral divider of sorts. Plus, I would feel better with the added support a bench would provide. So many options...and frustrations.


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## stlbluesfan55 (Jul 24, 2014)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANoSwwITLXY A system too deal with stability issues.


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## sworrior (Jul 24, 2014)

Another coat of stain on the transom tonight. Going to joint and plane the white Oak this weekend after the stain dries on the other piece.

Below are the pics from the leak test earlier. Leaning towards an alumaloy repair of the seams. Any thoughts?


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## onthewater102 (Jul 25, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=360809#p360809 said:


> sworrior » 24 Jul 2014, 15:36[/url]"]Extremely frustrated.
> 
> ...Saw an informertial on Alumaloy (https://www.alumaloy.com/) and was mesmorized, but don't know if it's legitimate...



Complete CROCK! I thought the same thing and gave it a try - the temperatures you need to heat the aluminum hull to will warp it before the stuff can bond to it. It might work on heavier material like 1/8" angle, but on the thin skins of our boats it's less than worthless - it'll make your project a wavey distorted leaky mess.


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## Timtactical (Jul 25, 2014)

I had a few leaky rivets on mine, but not a whole seam. I dont see why gluvit wont fix the problem though. I think the best place to seal is on the water side of the leak.


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## sworrior (Jul 25, 2014)

Thanks for the great tips. I will scrap the alumaloy idea, although they get an "A+" for marketing. Wife and I were mesmerized by the hypnotic infomertial. Plus, the heating would probably melt the interior flexseal in addition to flexing the hull. Flex Seal was great at stopping 99% of the weepage at the seams. It's NOT gap filling, so the seams only leak at the larger gaps.

Was looking at the Gluvit (https://www.amazon.com/Travaco-Gluvit-Epoxy-Waterproof-Sealer/dp/B001446LH2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406296514&sr=8-1&keywords=gluvit) and that looks much easier than JB Weld, but what color does it dry? I want to make the seam repair as unnoticable as possible. Any thoughts (other than volume) on Gluvit vs JB Weld? JB Weld seems to blend in pretty good with the hull color, but I'd rather have a dry boat than a pretty one.

I walked away from the boat for a bit and took the kids in the 'Stang to a local cruise night and finally found a pencil eraser-sized hole near the transom when I got back. Hopefully plugging that will take care of the majority of the leakage.


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## Timtactical (Jul 25, 2014)

The Gluvit dries clear/yellow. You can apply in a more direct manner that I did. (I wanted total coverage over the rivets. I suppose you could tape off 1/2" on each side of the seam and rivet and apply that way. You have quite a bit of time to cure, and summer time is perfect working conditions for it. I painted over it and you cannot tell it is there except before you could see the edge of the rivets. Now they are sealed and only a dimple protrudes. I have pics on my build you can see, and I can take more detailed pics if you like.


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## onthewater102 (Jul 25, 2014)

Both are epoxy products - Gulvit is designed for aluminum boats so it will be more flexible once cured. JB weld is tough as nails, but by being so rigid it will over time pull free of the aluminum as the aluminum flexes.

As far as which side to apply it - it will be WAY more work to gulvit the entire length of those seams on the interior side - but if you're putting decking in and don't want to fix the leaks rivet by rivet, the gulvit will be protected from abrasion on the inside of the boat by being underneath your decking - it will be exposed to everything in the water and abrasion with the bottom if you use it on the outside.


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## Timtactical (Jul 25, 2014)

I agree, but the reason I personally chose to seal the exterior surface was to keep water from penetrating anything on the boat. If you coat a seam on the inside the coating will act the same. But if you have a rib on the inside and cannot 100% encapsulate the rib it will continue to leak. Especially where you have a corrugation of the hull material.


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## Timtactical (Jul 25, 2014)

Check this out, just a little visual aid.


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## tonynoriega (Jul 25, 2014)

sworrior,

I have a 52 Model K, and had some of the same issues you did/do.

I used GluvIt.

Both inside, and outside.











Little paint. Works great.


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## sworrior (Jul 25, 2014)

Gluvit ordered on Amazon. Should be here on Tuesday. In the meantime it's time to finish the transom and figure out the deck situation. Thanks everyone.


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## sworrior (Jul 27, 2014)

Amazon says gluvit will be here on Monday. I plan to brush it on all of the seams and rivets below the waterline. If I do paint the hull are there any issues with primer or paint on the gluvit? 

Worked on the transom tonight and got it cut to size. The boat is upside down on saw horses so I won't be able to fit it until after the hull work.
Heading out in the kayak tomorrow to do some much needed fishing. After all, that's what it's all about!


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## Timtactical (Jul 27, 2014)

My gluvit took paint well, I let it set upside down on the trailer in my garage but I was still tacky the next day. So I pulled it out into my driveway into the full sun. 2-90 degree days with full sun did the job.


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## sworrior (Jul 28, 2014)

Not many 90deg days in Wisconsin and given the weather lately, I'll probably have to use space heaters in my garage. Even for up here, this Summer has been chilly. We'll be lucky to hit 70F today, let alone the average high of 86.

Started wire brushing the seams, joints, and rivets and will wipe down with laquer thinner in preparation for the Gluvit. 

I plan to use a rattle can primer since I already have enough on hand to do the entire boat. Any problems with this or should I save it for another project? 

Any advice on paint selection? After looking around the site, I saw duck-boat paint seemed to get the most approval. I will roll it on and will either go with an OD Green or a Desert Tan color. Would love to get my hands on some of the primer and Haze Gray two-part paint we used on the ship. That stuff was tough as nails.

Will post some pictures of the transom cut to size and the hull progress this evening. Thanks again everyone.

I almost forgot, did some fishing yesterday, spent most of the day fighting the wind and only ended up with a few small gills. Still...


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## tonynoriega (Jul 28, 2014)

sworrior.

[side note] "...Haze Grey on the ship..." Guessing a Navy vet?

I scuffed up the GluvIt with a little 80 grit sand paper to give it a good tooth to hold, and used a wire brush on some of the grooved crease type seams.

I used rattle can primer (self etching), and Rusto Smoke Grey and it is holding just fine.


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## Timtactical (Jul 28, 2014)

I was going to say, squid. Its ok, you can call me a Jar head, I like the navy. Your rattle primer will do fine.


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## sworrior (Jul 28, 2014)

Thanks for the tips. Glad to put the rattle cans to good use...Still active Navy and can't retire for a few more years. Best to have the boat finished early.

tonynoriega, nice boat. I love the color.


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## tonynoriega (Jul 28, 2014)

Rusto smoke grey, and rusto "Cardinal" red.

Still active eh. Good on ya.

Gonna take a wild shot here...

Senior Chief. Electricians Mate? EMCS.





[url=https://tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=361313#p361313 said:


> sworrior » 39 minutes ago[/url]"]Thanks for the tips. Glad to put the rattle cans to good use...Still active Navy and can't retire for a few more years. Best to have the boat finished early.
> 
> tonynoriega, nice boat. I love the color.


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## sworrior (Jul 28, 2014)

Used to be an ET3, now a LCDR SWO on shore duty who is not used to being home this much and needs to fill my free time with excess projects.


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## Timtactical (Jul 28, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=361316#p361316 said:


> sworrior » 28 Jul 2014, 16:24[/url]"]Used to be an ET3, now a LCDR SWO on shore duty who is not used to being home this much and needs to fill my free time with excess projects.



Good on you sir, that's tough shit.


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## tonynoriega (Jul 28, 2014)

Nice. 

[commence thread hijack]

Did you submit for OCS? Or were you selected? I don't recall the process on how one when from enlisted to officer.

I got out back in 2000... hard to imagine, but I am pretty sure if I would have stayed in I wold be at least a chief by now. Would be coming up on 18 years...

Holy sh!t... I didn't realize that until I just counted that out.

I was a PN2(SW) when I abandon ship!.... (that was a terrible usage of a pun).

USS Stethem DDG 63 - Two awesome West-Pac tours - Shellback


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## sworrior (Jul 28, 2014)

Enlisted in 1996. Went to ET A School and got picked up for an NROTC scholarship to Marquette. Had to pay back the 4 years of school and decided to stick it out.


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## sworrior (Jul 28, 2014)

Back to the boat.
Gluvit arrived today, but with highs in the 60's, I'll have to wait a few days before I brush it on.
Used a soft brass wire wheel and 100 grit sandpaper on a random orbital sander to rough up the exterior. 
Finished most of the transom other than final fitting and finishing.
Everything is on hold until the temperature warms up.


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## Timtactical (Jul 29, 2014)

That looks great, it looks like your ready for a polish.


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## sworrior (Jul 29, 2014)

It's a shame to have to paint it.

I was re-thinking my rattle can primer after reading the Gluvit website. Instructions from their website (https://www.marinetex.com/Marine-Tex_how_to.html):

Product: Gluvit Epoxy Sealer

-Materials: Aluminum prep wash, solvent for cleaning (acetone or lacquer thinner work well), 100 grit sandpaper, a good quality paint brush, 1/4" nap paint roller (if needed), a large mixing cup (if only using a portion of the kit) and a mixing stick

-Conditions: Minimum 65˚F temperature, 48 hours to fully cure at 65˚F

-Read instructions on product packaging. Clean surface with solvent then sand. An aluminum prep wash can be used to profile the aluminum surface. Mix material per directions (5:1 ratio by volume). The working time is one hour at 70˚F. Apply the material with a brush or roller directly to the surface, a primer is not needed. The long open time allows the product to seep deep into pin holes and hairline cracks around seams and rivets. A second coat can be used by mixing additional material 12 hours after the first application, if desired. This product does not have any ultraviolet inhibitors. A coat of epoxy friendly paint that is suitable for your application must be applied if treated area is in direct contact with sunlight. Contact your paint supplier to insure your are using the proper paint for your application.

**********************************************************************

RustOleum's website doesn't say anything about being epoxy friendly and other forums I've read say that oil-based enamals won't cure properly over most epoxy. Anyone have any thoughts/experience?


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## onthewater102 (Jul 29, 2014)

Epoxy is its own class of surface for paint to adhere to - so you need a primer which works specifically on Epoxy, finding something compatible with "plastic" won't suffice, neither will those which work with fiberglass, as fiberglass is typically made from a polyester resin not epoxy...

I'm sure you'll get tons of anecdotal comments that "I used XYZ product and it worked fine" - ignore them & find the right primer for the job the first time.


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## Timtactical (Jul 29, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=361414#p361414 said:


> onthewater102 » 29 Jul 2014, 09:59[/url]"]I'm sure you'll get tons of anecdotal comments that "I used XYZ product and it worked fine" - ignore them & find the right primer for the job the first time.



But mine worked fine :wink:


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## onthewater102 (Jul 29, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=361415#p361415 said:


> Timtactical » 29 Jul 2014, 10:05[/url]"]But mine worked fine :wink:



Do you know why?


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## Timtactical (Jul 29, 2014)

Nope, but guessing that the gluvit was semi tacky when I applied the paint/primer, the top surface of the paint is bonded to the gluvit


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## tonynoriega (Jul 29, 2014)

Im just giving you my most recent experience.

I used GluvIt on my boat. Obviously just on the bare aluminum spots which was almost all of my boat!!

Down the seams, in the cracks, inside outside, in my transom aqueduct, on a weld spot I had done. Everywhere I thought the possibility of leakage could occur.

I let that cure for weeks. Not necessary, but I didnt have a choice really.

It got hard as a rock, and slick as all get out. 

I sanded and scuffed it up real nice.

Wiped everything down with acetone, and gave my entire boat a vinegar water wash. Dont know if it was necessary or not. But it gave me confidence.

I then use Moeller Self Etching Primer with Zinc Chromate by the recommendation of about 1000 people on here.

Hit the entire boat. Inside and outside. Right over the GluvIt.

Used a HPLV gun to spray Rustoleum Oil Based Enamel. Several coats. With proper cure time between.

I think 2 coats outside, and a light two coats inside.

With anything, any scrapes and dings take the paint to alum, but hell... just gives it character to me, and can easily be touched up IMO.

Just my recent experience with an almost same boat.






Before and After transom wood.


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## sworrior (Jul 29, 2014)

Looking at the MSDS for TimTactical's Paint (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Painter-s-Touch-2X-12-oz-Satin-Moss-Green-General-Purpose-Spray-Paint-6-Pack-249071/202058662), it looks like it's an acryllic-based paint/primer in one. While acryllic isn't as durable as enamel, for the price you can't beat it.

Duralux and Parker Duck Boat Paint were appealing, but after emailing both manufacturers, I don't think they're epoxy compatible but neither rep would say for certain.

Gluvit's customer service rep said any epoxy or paint labeled as a "bottom" paint should work. Going to see if I can scrounge something up. West Marine by me has anti-fouling paint, but that is a no-no for aluminum boats.

Moeller Self Etching Primer with Zinc Chromate looks like a winner to me. Made a call and Lowes by my house has a few colors in stock. It also, according to the TDS, appears to be epoxy compatible. Thanks!

Of course, I could always paint the boat with this (https://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3115098)

I keep forgetting it's a "Free" aluminum boat and not the QE II. Need to quit the fussin' and get to fishin'.


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## sworrior (Jul 29, 2014)

tonynoriega, nice transom. Is that Sapele?
I made a center console for my ice fishing shack out of Sapele and maple ply. It's taken a beating and will probably outlast me. Wish I some extra, but I had the curly white oak sitting around begging for a project.

This is where my OCD takes over and I lose sleep over primer coats.


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## onthewater102 (Jul 29, 2014)

Rust-oleum makes a product "2k Epoxy Primer" if you're looking for the rattle can approach. 

Otherwise you could get it at an automotive paint shop for a spray gun.


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## tonynoriega (Jul 29, 2014)

Sapele it is sir.

I loved the way it too the spar and made it look like candy.

Finished smooth too which was nice.

That was actually my 2nd piece... first piece was slight off centered, and as you state, my OCD would just not let it go.


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## sworrior (Jul 30, 2014)

Got the Gluvit on today. I'll post some pics of the process tomorrow. It was really easy to apply. Thanks for the tips.


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## sworrior (Jul 30, 2014)

Gluvit was extremely easy to apply. Here's what I did:
-Wire brushed seams with a soft wire wheel and cordless drill followed by light sanding with a random orbital sander and 100 grit sand paper
-Used compressed air to blow the dust off
-Wiped the entire surface with laquer thinner and lint free rags
-The Gluvit directions called for a 5:1 ratio mixture with 2-3 minutes of stirring
-I used a soft natural bristle brush, applying to the seams and joints first, then the rivets--making sure to work the Gluvit into the crevices with the brush
-I put two space heaters in my garage (evening temps in the 50's) to aid in curing

A few notes:
-Gluvit container was only half full (or half empty), the website says that this is to allow mixing in the can. I saw some complaints about this on the forum, but wanted to dispel the myth that Gluvit is ripping you off.
-Gluvit is thinner than I thought. It reminds me of warmed maple syrup, not the goopy epoxy I'm used to. this enables the product to work into the seams and crevices
-I mixed half of the product at a time since I wasn't sure how long of an open time I'd have. Even after an hour, the orignal batch was still easily workable until I ran out and had to mix the second batch (my garage temp was 72F)
-I wore nitrile gloves, but the product wasn't as messy as I thought


How it performs on the water remains to be seen, but so far, I'm glad I went with the Gluvit.


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## tonynoriega (Jul 30, 2014)

Sounds exactly like what I went through.

My can was pretty much 1/4 empty... I was also told this was if you wanted to add a mixing attachment to a cordless drill and mix in the can.

Meh...whatever.

Did you do the outside seams with the GluvIt, or did you do the inside?


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## sworrior (Jul 30, 2014)

I applied to the outside seams only. I had a few ounces left over, but it wouldn't have been enough to do much of the inside.

I used the Rust-O-Leum Flex Seal in rattle cans on the inside and I'm happy with it.


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## tonynoriega (Jul 30, 2014)

Schweet.

I am sure you heard it before, but apparently after sun exposure that stuff turns a dingy yellow... so best to paint over it.

I wasn't sure I caught it in the previous posts... but what year is your boat?


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## sworrior (Jul 31, 2014)

Garage temp was 94F for 24 hours and the gluvit was fully cured.
Sanded the entire boat with 80 grit to give the primer more bite.
Rubbed the boat down with laquer thinner
Put on 2 coats of Rustoleum self etching primer (it was all I could find last night)

Letting the primer cure with the heaters for 24 hours...really pleased with the results.
Decided to repaint the transom flat black to blend in with the new theme.


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## Timtactical (Jul 31, 2014)

That blends in really well, but you can still see there is plenty of gluvit material around the head of the rivet.


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## tonynoriega (Jul 31, 2014)

GluvIt Looks good.

After the primer and paint, should be nice and sealed up tight.


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## sworrior (Jul 31, 2014)

I'm worried about the durability of the Rustoleum Camo paint. Says it's great for boats, but I doubt it. I'll be re-coating again this Fall I'm sure with something more durable. Who knows, I could be mistaken. I just want to get it on the water and fish. 
Tonight's task: At least two coats of top coat. 

One note about the primer: I used 5 cans total (probably more like 2 1/2 coats) and got nice even covereage. I did the first coat as a thin flash coat and didn't worry so much about coverage to allow the subsequent coats to grip better. I also wanted to see if there were any issues with curing associated with the Gluvit. 

As I mentioned before--with the heaters the Gluvit really baked on. I hope the accellerated drying doesn't lead to warping or cracking of the epoxy, but I didn't really have a choice since the evening temps have been in the low 50's and I needed to keep the temp >70F. I'm at work so I don't have a way to regulate the temp.
The Gluvit sanded nicely and I was able to flush out the few drips/runs with 80 grit sandpaper. I sprayed a small test area on the Gluvit with primer and a small area on the Gluvit with my top coat as well as a control group of each on the bare sanded aluminum. No differences in primer adhesion between the Gluvit coated surface and the bare aluminum when scratched lightly with a putty knife. The non-primed paint in both cases came off completely and cleanly with the putty knife. 

Verdict: Primer is mandatory regardless of the surface to be painted, and in my case, no adhesion or curing issues with the Gluvit-primer/paint interaction.


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## tonynoriega (Jul 31, 2014)

Nice.

You may notice that once the boat if flipped upright, as you get inside and add weight, and step around, that you "may" hear some cracks and pops.

Depending on the thickness of where the gluvit was applied.

I noticed this inside my boat where the thick spots were. Not a big deal. Just my observation.

I think the Rusto I used says specifically on the can something like "do not submerse in water for extended periods of time"...

HA... oh well. Its just a fishing boat right?


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## stlbluesfan55 (Jul 31, 2014)

When is your next water test?


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## sworrior (Jul 31, 2014)

Top Coat tonight and cure for 24 hours.
Friday I plan on putting it back on the trailer and painting the interior that's not going to be covered by flooring. I will also final fit the transom pieces and finsh putting the clear coat on those.
Saturday night I'm going to install the decks and wiring for the motor/lights.
Sunday, I will test it out by fishing from it and finish with carpet/ touch ups/ storage next week. I'm going to wait on flooring in case I need to go buy a 55gal drun of flex seal for the inside.


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## Kismet (Jul 31, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=361747#p361747 said:


> sworrior » Today, 13:52[/url]"]Top Coat tonight and cure for 24 hours.
> Friday I plan on putting it back on the trailer and painting the interior that's not going to be covered by flooring. I will also final fit the transom pieces and finsh putting the clear coat on those.
> Saturday night I'm going to install the decks and wiring for the motor/lights.
> Sunday, I will test it out by fishing from it and finish with carpet/ touch ups/ storage next week. I'm going to wait on flooring in case I need to go buy a 55gal drun of flex seal for the inside.




It's gonna be fine. Relax. Dial back the perfection meter to "enjoyably acceptable."

As I understand it, this is recreation as you soften your focus on tasks.

Gonna be fine.


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## stlbluesfan55 (Jul 31, 2014)

Oh kismet, this is sworrior at his most relaxed. In fact he can smoke a cigar and watch paint dry for fun (and keep a record of the event)! :LOL2:


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## tonynoriega (Jul 31, 2014)

Ha... I have been known to drink a six pack whilest watching paint cure.


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## sworrior (Aug 2, 2014)

Got the interior painted tonight. Started laying out the interior and plan to start cutting the deck pieces tomorrow. Will post pics tomorrow.


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## sworrior (Aug 2, 2014)

Starting to take shape. I wheeled the boat out into the driveway and started laying out the decking. Also got the trolling motor--a 55# Power DriveV2 with 48in shaft. I got the removable mounting plate because I plan to store the boat up North during the winter.


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## sworrior (Aug 3, 2014)

Do I need to pre drill things like trolling motor mounting holes before I put on the carpeting? It's easier for me to do carpet first, but I don't have any experience drilling or cutting into a carpeted surface.


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## sworrior (Aug 3, 2014)

Another learning opportunity. 
The batteries are 1 inch taller than the rear bench. That I plan to use as a rear casting deck. Can I laminate 2 3/4" pieces of plywood for the rear bench and then make my rear casting deck on top of that? Doing this would only place the rear deck 2" below the top wall rails.

I could always leave the rear open, but thatwould expose the batteries and two bank charger to the elements. I also planon storing a future gas tank under there when and if Iget an outboard. Below are some reference pictures.
M also debating bulding a battery holddown or using battery boxes. Thoughts?


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## sworrior (Aug 3, 2014)

Whats the best way. (Ie easiest) way to attach the plywood to the seats? I was planning on using self yapping stainless sheet metal screws since I don't have access to the seat interior. Will that have enough holding power. I'd rather not use epoxy in case I have to remove the seats later for a remodel.


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## Kismet (Aug 3, 2014)

You sure you want to put the batteries in the rear of the boat?

Might solve your problem and distribute weight better if you moved them further up. Dunno the floor plan, but maybe one on either side of the front of the second bench?

And I agree, that's kind of high up on a semi-v with 52inch beam.


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## sworrior (Aug 3, 2014)

I have plenty of room and clearance in the front storage compartment but I've heard that weight up front is bad. Maybe larger battery up front. Smaller battery in the rear?


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## Kismet (Aug 3, 2014)

Swarrior? 

With the engine, the gas (usually) and the driver of the boat in the back, distributing the weight throughout the craft will use the hull design better for engine efficiency.

I'm sure there are charts around, but keeping the bow down is a good thing. 

Have fun.


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## sworrior (Aug 4, 2014)

Solved the battery dilemma. Thanks, K--keeping it simple and running the trolling motor off of the front battery and accessories off of the rear battery.

Sheet metal screws to secure the seats and decking to the benches?

Any preferences on carpet adhesive out there?


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## sworrior (Aug 5, 2014)

Watching the waterproofing sealer dry with cigar in hand.
Should I put on carpet or fasten to seats first--famous chicken or the egg conundrum. 
Are stainless sheet metal screws into the seats going to have enough holding power for the carpeted benches and deck?
Can I place a standard battery on its side for more clearance or will it leak?


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## sworrior (Aug 5, 2014)

Great carpet adhesive test by Jay at https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=22430&start=15

Leaning towards Dap contact cement, but it seems like a one shot deal. I've noticed some have success with the Loctite spray adhesive. That seems almost fool proof.


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## tonynoriega (Aug 5, 2014)

I used the Dap. Worked great.

Worked some in high heat, and no so high heat. 

Slathered some on each side of the wood and carpet... gave it a minute or so to cure, and pressed together in a rolling motion.

I did bigger pieces a bit at a time... glue some down roll it, add more glue, roll it....etc.

Seems to be holding up very well on my platform.



[url=https://tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=362351#p362351 said:


> sworrior » Today, 07:27[/url]"]Great carpet adhesive test by Jay at https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=22430&start=15
> 
> Leaning towards Dap contact cement, but it seems like a one shot deal. I've noticed some have success with the Loctite spray adhesive. That seems almost fool proof.


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## Timtactical (Aug 6, 2014)

A non AGM battery will leak if placed on its side. Vibration is also bad for standard batteries. I placed my battery on its side in front of the middle seat. It mainly powers my trolling motor and fish finder. My outboard motor does not have electric start. (good thing it starts easy.)


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## sworrior (Aug 14, 2014)

Haven't touched the boat in over a week. Working on a special project that takes about 12-15 hours a day which doesn't leave much time for building. I worked a bit tonight and started on the carpeting.
I was able to get the front bench carpeted and the front deck. I'll post some pictures tomorrow.

I'm stuck on where to put the battery. The large storage area in the bow (see earlier pics) is where I want to put the size 27 battery, but due to the front deck supports, it would have to go in the center so that it can be removed without uninstalling the front deck. This would severely limit my tackle storage (I want to have my cake and eat it too). One possible spot I could put the battery is if I cut a recess into the side of the bench seat. I would not be cutting all of the way through the bench, but I'm worried this would weaken the lateral support the bench provides to the hull. Any thoughts?


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## Ail (Aug 14, 2014)

Hi there,

I used a self tapping screw on my bench seats for wood/metal that went through 3/4" ply, and a thin sheet of aluminum. They held rock sold with only 4-6 in each seat until I recently pulled them out to re-do the seats. I carpeted then fastened them, and some of the outdoor rug bunched, but I only used staples and my own strength to stretch a rather thick outdoor carpet around the ply. I imagine with adhesive on first, then attaching them, you should not get any pulling or bunching. Don't forget pilot holes. I made that boner mistake as well. #-o 

Looking at your benches it appears they are like canoe seats where they do not extend to the hull floor. I would have to imagine cutting a large notch in them would weaken them for sitting, and possibly as a hull support brace. Maybe you could add supports under the seat where you notch it? I'm not sure I'd to do that, personally.

Like this?


```
___________________________________
|                     _________     |
|____________________|  notch  |____|
                    ||         ||
       supports --> ||         || <-- supports
```
 
Not sure if that's what you meant.


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## sworrior (Aug 14, 2014)

I solved the fastener issue. I am using Teks screws made by a company called Buildex. They are specifically designed to fasten wood to metal. They are also coated (ceramic, I believe) for exterior use.

I pre-drilled my holes, but I also drove a few Teks non pre-drilled and didn't notice a difference. In fact, the screws drove as easily as any twist bit. I picked these up at Lowe's, but I also saw them at Home Depot yesterday.

I will screw through the carpet into the deck, but use finish washers to neaten the appearance.


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## sworrior (Aug 14, 2014)

...Soooo, I tried my hand at carpeting last night, and below are the pictures of the finished product. I used the DAP Contact Cement and was very impressed. A long open time allowed repositioning and stretching with a J-Roller I use for gluing up veneers. I will post some more detailed pics and a step by step tomorrow. I couldn't take any pictures of the process, because I wasn't sure what I was doing. Now, I still don't know what I'm doing but at least I'm an experienced idiot.


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## Ail (Aug 14, 2014)

That looks pretty good to me! I might try those screws as well, thanks.


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## SaltyGhost (Aug 14, 2014)

:idea: The rounded shape of her hull may make standing on that casting deck a little tipsy. This could be improved by adding ballast so she will sink a little lower in the water. I suggest 1gal jugs of water. Stick them under the seats and into that front compartment. I use this trick on my 19' canoe which is designed to carry 2 people and 400# of gear. If its too light it tips very easy; load her up with water jugs and she is super stable.


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## tonynoriega (Aug 26, 2014)

Nahh... I did a very similar project on my 1952 16', and with the weight of the frame, deck, and gear up front... she sits quite well...not to mention my fat ass!!!



[url=https://tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=363331#p363331 said:


> SaltyGhost » 14 Aug 2014, 14:23[/url]"]:idea: The rounded shape of her hull may make standing on that casting deck a little tipsy. This could be improved by adding ballast so she will sink a little lower in the water. I suggest 1gal jugs of water. Stick them under the seats and into that front compartment. I use this trick on my 19' canoe which is designed to carry 2 people and 400# of gear. If its too light it tips very easy; load her up with water jugs and she is super stable.


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## sworrior (Aug 26, 2014)

Got a little more done on the boat this week--fishing is definitely in my near future. 
Finished up carpeting the bow.
I used Dap Weldwood Contact Cement. 

First I sealed the wood with whatever I had: exterior spray paint, deck sealer, spar varnish, a combination of leftovers

Next I cut the carpet to size, cutting it oversized to accommodate a finished edge and staples.

I applied contact cement to both the underside of the carpet and the deck. Use a short nap or foam roller to apply the contact cement evenly.

Smoke a short cigar and wait 15 minutes until the surfaces are slightly tacky. If the cement is too dry, just apply some more to soften it.

Afterwards, I placed the deck on the carpet and used a veneer roller to apply bonding pressure. I then stapled the underside with stainless staples to keep the carpet taut. 
I was suprised by how easy this was and glad I went the carpet route.


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## sworrior (Aug 26, 2014)

Built the front box for the trolling motor. This will raise it flush with the gunwale. I got a plug in connector from the trolling motor and mounted it in the vertical wall to reduce the chances of water intrusion. I also mounted the running light combo to this platform.


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## sworrior (Aug 26, 2014)

The transom is complete. I replaced the stock aluminum screws and washers with stainless fasteners primed and painted to match. I couldn't bring myself to paint the curly white oak, so I used a flat spar varnish to keep more with the theme but still allow the wood grain to show.


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## sworrior (Aug 26, 2014)

Now that the forward casting deck is carpeted, I framed in the front. The battery position gives me the most room, but it has to be muscled in to place.


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## sworrior (Aug 27, 2014)

Loose fitted the rear seat/deck. Also got the battery selector switch and 2 bank charger installed.


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## tonynoriega (Aug 27, 2014)

Looking sweet.


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## stlbluesfan55 (Aug 27, 2014)

=D>


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## sworrior (Sep 18, 2014)

Alldone. Finally finished the build. Thanks to Tim, Tony, Kismet, OTW, and everyone for their help...couldn't have done it without you guys. Now time to fish.


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## Y_J (Sep 19, 2014)

[url=https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?p=361802#p361802 said:


> tonynoriega » July 31st, 2014, 11:09 pm[/url]"]Ha... I have been known to drink a six pack whilest watching paint cure.


Only a six pack?


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## sworrior (Sep 26, 2014)

Ended up getting a 1981 Evinrude 7.5HP and a 3gal gas tank. Also got the HDS5 gen2 from Cabelas bargain cave.

Ive used downscan imaging before and would love to have that capability with my current setup. Lowrances website is impossible to figure out. Any ideas on what I need to get to add downscan imaging? Does structure scan also provide a down look or is it only side scan?

Some projects are never complete.


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## Kismet (Sep 26, 2014)

I think you've done well. It is clean, comprehensive, and comfortable. Nice work.

Now...go away from the Tin Boats site, and never, ever, look at Craig's list again.

:mrgreen: =D> :mrgreen:​
Be safe, have fun.


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## bigcity (Oct 27, 2014)

Nice looking rig. Great rebuild. 

I am currently in the middle of an AeroCraft FP-12 rebuild/overhaul. The "FP" is a 12' X 52" covered marsh boat with pole wells fore and aft. https://www.fiberglassics.com/wiki/images/9/95/Aerocraftb58005.jpg The pole wells are exactly what they say. A well(a tube really) that runs from top through the bottom of the boat, so that you can drive a pole into the ground, for stability while hunting. Without them, I think a guy would get his hat wet! 

I completely agree with your dock guys claim of a 1" draft. I think you could water the lawn and then paddle around!! :mrgreen: 
I will try to post a couple pics when I get home.


p.s. How's that self etching primer/paint holding up?


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## sworrior (Oct 27, 2014)

The paint and primer are surprisingly more hardy than I thought. With major scratches I just reapply some spray paint, but that hasn't happened much. She fishes like a champ. Glad I took the time to do it right.


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## bigcity (Oct 27, 2014)

It originally came with 3 seats, but someone has removed the most forward one, and moved the middle toward the front. I have them both out now, and am sanding the inside and am going to replace the foam in the seats. I think I'll also pour some two part foam in the nose. It's really unusable space, and would make it easier to find(maybe even float) should the unthinkable happen. I have about 75 or so rivets to put back in, and I'll rebuck the rest. 
You can see the pole wells pretty good .


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## sworrior (Oct 27, 2014)

Nice. The pole wells are a neat idea...think power poles 40 years earlier.


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