# 16' Monark Mod V Jon - The end of the Road - FOR SALE



## ober51

Decided to sell the rig, despite my love for it and how well it runs. Time to move on up to a bigger boat. Please see the want ad section.

Thanks for everyone's help!

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Hi All,

So I basically finished what I wanted to do on my first project - and then this boat came along. I got a great deal on this boat (which is a freaking beast construction wise) - $200 for the boat. It isn't perfect, has had some welding done, but seems rock solid. I will definitely Steel Flex this puppy again, maybe even rerivet a couple spots, we'll see about the latter. 

Before I left, he asked if I wanted to take a look at an older Johnson/Evinrude he had. I am not a motors guy, but said $50 bucks. I asked for a look, he pulled it out and the cord was stuck. So I said, "I think I'll pass, not sure about compression and whatnot." Haha, I have no idea about anything, just sounded like something I should say. He said, "Well I need to get rid of it, $25?" I was hesitant, then he said, "$20?" In my head I said, "Shoot, for $20, it can't hurt." So for $220, I got a 16' Monark, and a 15 HP 1970s Johnson. Not sure about anything motor-wise, but I will take off the cowling and snap as many pictures as I can. I am hoping for some help on this, where to take it, what you think is wrong, etc. I think I got a good deal? 

That's it for now, I will post some pictures later, and let more experienced folks have at it.


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## michiganman18

Yeah, for 50.00 you could get more than that out of it parting it out on ebay. Wise to take. Nice find. Id risk the gamble


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## ober51

michiganman18 said:


> Yeah, for 50.00 you could get more than that out of it parting it out on ebay. Wise to take. Nice find. Id risk the gamble



Haha, $50 was good, $20 was even better!


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## Zum

Sounds like you got yourself a nice deal.Waiting on the pictures.


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## ober51

Zum said:


> Sounds like you got yourself a nice deal.Waiting on the pictures.




Ask and ye shall receive, Zum.

The transom obviously needs to be replaced. There was a good weld on the keel (I think that's the proper term?), but looks very good upon close inspection. Definitely Steel Flexing the bottom to ensure complete seal. Here are some pics.

I also just measured the width, 60" across at the back. 45" on the floor on the back (the 14' shallow v I had was 45 at its widest at the top, so this is much wider). 

So that little drain plug that you see, do I need a bilge pump once I throw that in? It's good for now, since the boat is stored outdoors, but once I get her in the water, what do I do with that? Silly, novice question, but I think it's important, ha. 

Anything else you see? The ribs go all the way up the side, so it looks very solid (a few were welded).


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## ober51

More.


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## Zum

Nice looking boat,high sided...is the stern about 15 or 20 inches?


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## ober51

Zum said:


> Nice looking boat,high sided...is the stern about 15 or 20 inches?



I just went out and measured - it is 16" from the bottom to the top of the transom. The deepest part of the boat, more near the bow, is 21".


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## ober51

Anyone have any recommendations on a boat cover? I have been looking at Cabelas and whatnot, but thought I'd ask here first?


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## wiudavis

I have a boat very similiar to yours. I am curious to see how you modify this one. I am in the early stages of my project, as I just got my hands on the boat this weekend. The previous owner has removed all the benches out, so I have a little different layout. I am looking forward to seeing more pics.


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## ober51

wiudavis said:


> I have a boat very similiar to yours. I am curious to see how you modify this one. I am in the early stages of my project, as I just got my hands on the boat this weekend. The previous owner has removed all the benches out, so I have a little different layout. I am looking forward to seeing more pics.



Awesome. Do you have a link to your mod? I am going to be doing a lot of prepping and what not. I was going to powerwash tomorrow to just clear the debris out. But the mods will be a long process I bet. I have limited time over the next few weeks, but will try my best to make some progress. Not sure if I will be full out modding at first, or just making it look nice for this year.


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## wiudavis

ober51 said:


> wiudavis said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a boat very similiar to yours. I am curious to see how you modify this one. I am in the early stages of my project, as I just got my hands on the boat this weekend. The previous owner has removed all the benches out, so I have a little different layout. I am looking forward to seeing more pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome. Do you have a link to your mod? I am going to be doing a lot of prepping and what not. I was going to powerwash tomorrow to just clear the debris out. But the mods will be a long process I bet. I have limited time over the next few weeks, but will try my best to make some progress. Not sure if I will be full out modding at first, or just making it look nice for this year.
Click to expand...


Here is a link to a few pictures. I cleaned all of the old decking and debris out of her this weekend, but I don't have any new pictures. https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=8191


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## ober51

So I flooded the boat today and sat back for a bit and found some leaks. A whole bunch of slowly leaking rivets and a leaky weld. 

I know there is a topic on leaky rivets, so I won't ask too many questions here. I am guessing I should bang some of them together, and re-flood the boat? How about the leaky weld? Do I need to weld that again? I was hoping it was leak-free, but what can I expect from a few decades old, $200 boat?

I really don't want to rerivet, but if I had to, what kind would I use? This boat is definitely getting a coat of Steel Flex, as it will ease my mind that much more when I am out there. 

Any suggestions overall?


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## ober51

So I have started to think about ways in which to shorten the prep time for this 16 footer. I came across EFS-2500 an airplane paint stripper/remover. Has anyone heard of it? They don't have a price, but I am going to likely purchase a gallon - as their testimonials indicate this is real deal remover. Regular stripper just didn't get it done last time, and it just took too long. 

Here is the link: https://www.m-tc.com/efs2500_information.htm


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## wiudavis

ober51 said:


> So I have started to think about ways in which to shorten the prep time for this 16 footer. I came across EFS-2500 an airplane paint stripper/remover. Has anyone heard of it? They don't have a price, but I am going to likely purchase a gallon - as their testimonials indicate this is real deal remover. Regular stripper just didn't get it done last time, and it just took too long.
> 
> Here is the link: https://www.m-tc.com/efs2500_information.htm



Be sure and let us know what a gallon of that costs and how well it works. I might be interested too.


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## ober51

wiudavis said:


> ober51 said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I have started to think about ways in which to shorten the prep time for this 16 footer. I came across EFS-2500 an airplane paint stripper/remover. Has anyone heard of it? They don't have a price, but I am going to likely purchase a gallon - as their testimonials indicate this is real deal remover. Regular stripper just didn't get it done last time, and it just took too long.
> 
> Here is the link: https://www.m-tc.com/efs2500_information.htm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Be sure and let us know what a gallon of that costs and how well it works. I might be interested too.
Click to expand...


They never even got back to me, kinda angry that they didnt even call me once I requested a quote. Oh well, I guess I will try again.

Just called, its $65 a gallon.


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## Stryker777

I went to a NAPA and they had aircraft stripper. It is supposed to take it all off clean instead of having to scrape of gummy layers. It was $50 a gallon so I did not buy any. Elbow grease is not as fast, but it works.


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## ober51

Stryker777 said:


> I went to a NAPA and they had aircraft stripper. It is supposed to take it all off clean instead of having to scrape of gummy layers. It was $50 a gallon so I did not buy any. Elbow grease is not as fast, but it works.



Yeah, I know, that's what I did with my 14 footer. But I would like to maybe shave off, oh say, 30 hours, lol.


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## ober51

Just went over to Advanced Auto and bought some Tal-Strip, heard good things about it. I want to strip the bottom portion of the hull to apply steel flex to a completely bare surface. As for the rest of the hull, elbow grease should do it - just going to scuff it up well, prime and paint.


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## ober51

Weather isn't great, and won't be for a while (need a bunch of nice days in a row to really get into this thing), so I decided to rip out the transom. It was half waterlogged, and had all sorts of critters behind it. Glad I did that.

I am just thinking about ripping out the second to last bench seat. I don't think it should be a problem, given the thickness of the aluminum, the ribs that extend all the way up the side, and putting some more flotation foam back in to make up for the material lost in the seat. Any suggestions?

How do I take out the riveted seats? Do I just drill into the rivets? I read that here, but a little more information would be great before I screw anything up!


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## Henry Hefner

ober51 said:


> Weather isn't great, and won't be for a while (need a bunch of nice days in a row to really get into this thing), so I decided to rip out the transom. It was half waterlogged, and had all sorts of critters behind it. Glad I did that.
> 
> I am just thinking about ripping out the second to last bench seat. I don't think it should be a problem, given the thickness of the aluminum, the ribs that extend all the way up the side, and putting some more flotation foam back in to make up for the material lost in the seat. Any suggestions?
> 
> How do I take out the riveted seats? Do I just drill into the rivets? I read that here, but a little more information would be great before I screw anything up!




Looks plenty sturdy from the pics to remove a seat without any problems. To remove the rivets, choose a drill bit slightly smaller than the hole the rivet goes through, and you should be able to use the same size rivets to plug the holes back up after the seat is removed.
I'll pass on to you a definition I enjoyed. Drill: (_noun_) a motorized tool used to make rivets spin in place while cussing and sweating.


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## ober51

Henry Hefner said:


> ober51 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Weather isn't great, and won't be for a while (need a bunch of nice days in a row to really get into this thing), so I decided to rip out the transom. It was half waterlogged, and had all sorts of critters behind it. Glad I did that.
> 
> I am just thinking about ripping out the second to last bench seat. I don't think it should be a problem, given the thickness of the aluminum, the ribs that extend all the way up the side, and putting some more flotation foam back in to make up for the material lost in the seat. Any suggestions?
> 
> How do I take out the riveted seats? Do I just drill into the rivets? I read that here, but a little more information would be great before I screw anything up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks plenty sturdy from the pics to remove a seat without any problems. To remove the rivets, choose a drill bit slightly smaller than the hole the rivet goes through, and you should be able to use the same size rivets to plug the holes back up after the seat is removed.
> I'll pass on to you a definition I enjoyed. Drill: (_noun_) a motorized tool used to make rivets spin in place while cussing and sweating.
Click to expand...


It's funny, I was looking through your rebuild this morning for ideas on the removal, and then you answer, so thanks! 

Here are two pics of the transom removed, really a PITA, and might even have to reinstall in two pieces, we'll see. Not too worried. 

If I do remove the seats, I am guessing that I can put some 3M 5300 in the rivets to seal them up well?


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## Ranchero50

For removing rivets, what's worked best for me is a flap disc in a grinder, basically sand the rivet head off (you don't get into the spinning rivet syndrome that way). Pop the seat or whatever free with a screwdriver and then sand the rivet the rest of the way down, then drill a 1/2" hole in a 2x4 and place the board over the outside to act as a block (hold it with your knee) and use a 1/4" punch and hammer to knock the rest out. The board keeps the rivet from distorting the metal. If you weld, just puddle weld over the remains of the rivet head and then sand off the outside head...

Jamie


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## baptistpreach

Fantastic find! I'd like to be the first to welcome you to the Monark Brotherhood. I'm interested to see what you do with this boat. I've modded my 14 fter, and its a very good boat. Keep up the great work.


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## ober51

baptistpreach said:


> Fantastic find! I'd like to be the first to welcome you to the Monark Brotherhood. I'm interested to see what you do with this boat. I've modded my 14 fter, and its a very good boat. Keep up the great work.



Thanks, Preach. I haven't even really started due to this freaking weather here in Jersey. Rain the past several days, plus rain every day this week aside from Wednesday, and I have been called into work every day and have class at night. Sooo, it's frustrating seeing it sit in the driveway. 

Next step is just rebucking those rivets and maybe getting some of the marine JB Weld on the ones I can't reach, sand, Steel Flex. That's the plan. 

BTW, these boats seem really well built. That means if I do this right, I can have this for a long time. It also means I can't move it around at all by myself, lol.


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## ober51

Went to Boater's World and planned and bought a bit more. As you know, Steel Flex will cover the bottom. The inside will now be coated by Gluvit - as it was 40% off, bringing it down to $79 for a gallon! I also settled on some paint, choosing Interlux Brightside Sapphire Blue (which will be two toned with the Steel Flex). I was on the fence with this or Bright Red, and then saw evattman's "Lund" and was convinced Sapphire was the right choice. Whether it looks as good is another story.

As for painting - this time I have decided that I don't need to take the hull all the way down to aluminum for the topside paint (porobably will do that for the Steel Flex though). Given this, I have decided to only use the self-etch primer on the bare spots of aluminum and then use Interlux PreKote to prime over the sanded paint, does this sound right? I think it will even give it a great shine if I do light paint, light sanding with 320 grit, and many coats. 

To recap: self etch primer for bare spots, then PreKote, then Brightside...sound right?


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## ober51

ober51 said:


> Went to Boater's World and planned and bought a bit more. As you know, Steel Flex will cover the bottom. The inside will now be coated by Gluvit - as it was 40% off, bringing it down to $79 for a gallon! I also settled on some paint, choosing Interlux Brightside Sapphire Blue (which will be two toned with the Steel Flex). I was on the fence with this or Bright Red, and then saw evattman's "Lund" and was convinced Sapphire was the right choice. Whether it looks as good is another story.
> 
> As for painting - this time I have decided that I don't need to take the hull all the way down to aluminum for the topside paint (porobably will do that for the Steel Flex though). Given this, I have decided to only use the self-etch primer on the bare spots of aluminum and then use Interlux PreKote to prime over the sanded paint, does this sound right? I think it will even give it a great shine if I do light paint, light sanding with 320 grit, and many coats.
> 
> To recap: self etch primer for bare spots, then PreKote, then Brightside...sound right?



Anyone have any thoughts on this? Would be mucho appreciated!


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## Brine

Sounds right to me.

No need to go down to bare aluminum with the steelflex either. Just scuff up what you've got remove all the dust and make sure there is no loose paint left.


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## ober51

These are some tentative plans for my boat - when I do it. I will add a legend in a second, but for now I am just trying to get an idea of if I like it or not.

Legend:

Black = Raised deck, storage underneath (blue) 
Blue = Storage
White = Seat mounts
Gray = Battery/Electrical
Brown = Floor
Orange = Cutting board, hard surface to work on
Black circles with white inside = cup holders
Red = Gasoline
Pink (at the bow) = Motor mount
Green = Livewell (which I may put in between the two blue hatches if there is room)
Lights = haven't decided where, but I have chosen to put in them above side storage and to illuminate the floor 

Well that's it for now. I would like some critiques and suggestions. This is obviously not drawn to scale, but rather just a starting point. I will put the switch panel in, tentatively next to the livewell (front right) adjacent to the side storage. underneath the up holders. Electrical is what is most daunting right now - so I will likely need a lot of help and read that 12-Volt Bible for boats.


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## Stryker777

Love the icons lol. The Energizers and dead fish made the plan very clear. So 3 batteries with two in the rear? Just making sure I am looking right. How big of a gas tank will be back there? It's going to be a nice boat!


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## ober51

Stryker777 said:


> Love the icons lol. The Energizers and dead fish made the plan very clear. So 3 batteries with two in the rear? Just making sure I am looking right. How big of a gas tank will be back there? It's going to be a nice boat!




Stryker, thanks for the input. I havent decided on how many batteries simply because I would like some input on what I will need to power the lights, bilge, livewell, trolling motor. etc. I put one up in the front for weight distribution, and easier access to the front lights/motor (and maybe the livewell). Oh, and I think the gas tank is 6.5 gallons. Should be big enough, no? I actually haven't measured if it will fit, ha. 

Like I said, this is tentative, and just trying to scrap some money together for the build. Looks like I will be sticking with the great deal I got on the Yamaha for now unless I get something that I can't pass up.

Definitely ripping the second to last seat out to open up the boat. I may even switch the whole side storage to the left of the boat in case I wanted to add a console with a bigger motor later (wishful thinking).


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## ober51

Ok, so I powerwashed and degreased today, after I flipper her over. I snapped some pictures, and boy is it ugly, lol. I need some advice on what to do with all the gunk.

A lot of the rivets leak, some with no gunk, some with a lot of gunk. My questions are as follows:

1. Should I scrape off all the gunk (seems like epoxy it's very hard) and put some JB Marine Weld in its place?
2. Should I just leave the gunk and Steel Flex over it?
3. Should I take off the gunk, redo the rivets?

Regardless of what I choose, I will be putting Steel Flex (it came today). I just need to know what do with the rivets.

As you can see from the pictures, the person that put in new rivets put in different ones - they have holes in them. I took a picture where you can see what I am talking about. What do I do there? Do I drill those (are they pop rivets?) out and put new ones in? 

I would like to get this figured out by tomorrow, when I can start making some headway on the project, with sanding, putting some JB Weld in certain areas, etc. The keel is ugly, huge weld, but there's only a slow leak. I don't want to get it rewelded, it would probably be too expensive. Can I put some JB weld or just Steel Flex this portion?

Please help and thanks!!


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## ober51

Also, how would I know what type of rivets to use if I need to replace? I am guess I need close end, blind rivets? How will I know what length and diameter? Ugh, so daunting. Please, rivet masters, help a brotha out!


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## ober51

Nothing? Damn. Ok well more JB Weld an Steel Flex it is, lol.


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## russ010

sorry no one has responded... and I didn't get online last night.

I would take off what I could of that goop around the rivets. Then i would buck those rivets (a block on one side, and then tap it on the other side with a hammer to tighten them up. If they do pop off, or break off, you can use standard rivets found at Lowes or HD to put back in their place. You can also use some aluminum epoxy to go over them - but that Steel Flex should do the trick. Just put your first coat on heavy on all of your rivets, then go over all of the bottom of the boat with it.


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## ober51

russ010 said:


> sorry no one has responded... and I didn't get online last night.
> 
> I would take off what I could of that goop around the rivets. Then i would buck those rivets (a block on one side, and then tap it on the other side with a hammer to tighten them up. If they do pop off, or break off, you can use standard rivets found at Lowes or HD to put back in their place. You can also use some aluminum epoxy to go over them - but that Steel Flex should do the trick. Just put your first coat on heavy on all of your rivets, then go over all of the bottom of the boat with it.



Thanks, Russ, I really appreciate it. What is the name of the "standard rivet" at Home depot/Lowes? It is close end blind? Not pop right? How will I know what length? Do I need rivet gun? Just not sure what to use or what size to get? 

Thanks, again!


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## russ010

I personally don't think it matters what kind of rivet it is... to be honest, I wish Bassboy1 would read this because he knows more about rivet types and sizes than I do.

I don't even remember what I used, but I think it was 1/8"... I bought an assortment pack of rivets from Harbor Freight along with a rivet gun (yea, you'll need one if you replace rivets). Then I just put the rivet in till I was able to fill the hole and used to gun to tighten it up. I didn't have to replace rivets in my boat, I predrilled holes for piano hinges for storage compartments.

You might want to shoot an email to bassboy1 and get his opinion.. he may be in the class where he can respond right now


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## ober51

Finally was able to make some headway on the prep work. After doing my grandfather's yard work, I spent about 7 hours today sanding the outside. Took the bottom down to bare aluminum and the sides down to aluminum only where there were scratches that I wanted to get out. Tomorrow I work until 3, so Steel Flex will wait until Wednesday. Should be nice Thursday and Friday, too, so maybe I can get on some paint, we'll see. 

I was hoping that the JB Weld Marine would be here by now so I could plug the drain hole, but nothing yet. I have stuck a cork in the hole almost to the end, then I will fill it up with the weld, and then Steel Flex over it.


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## masterofillusion

Hi I wanted to jump in here and tell you about these aluminum brazing rods you can buy at harbor freight. You can weld or seal all your rivets. Use a propane torch. The rods melt at 730 degrees without distorting the boat. I have seen aluminum cans welded with it. I tried it yesterday and it works great. several rods cost about 12.00 Good luck and pass the word around


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## ober51

The boat has been sanded down, sealed, and is waiting for Steel Flex. I will take some pics when done (since SF is not the easiest to work with)!


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## ober51

Looooong day. 16 feet is a bit more than 14', especially when you add the width too. I was concerned there wouldn't be enough, but there was. Picasso I am not - but with this boat I want it to be sealed, so looks are secondary. Plus, I think it shows way less than the black. Damn bugs keep dying in the SF, and a bit of pollen, but nothing major. 

Tomorrow after work I need to get some glue remover - any suggestions? I don't want to sand before I do that. Sanding is basically done otherwise - and then it's on to priming. I have 2-3 bottles of self-etch primer in 15 oz. cans and bought a quart of Rustoleum bare metal primer for the other bigger areas. On top of that will go PreKote by Interlux, and then Brightside. Don't know much I will get done starting at 3pm, but I hope to get at least the self etch/bare metal primer on so I can paint on Friday. On second though, that Prekote should go on tomorrow if I want to paint Friday, so I will aim for that. 

Ok, ok, pictures. The second one is a shot of where the worst part of the boat was. I really put a decent amount there seeing as it needed it. Also remember I am likely using Gluvit on the inside, so this boat should be watertight.


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## russ010

any particular reason your going to use Pre-Kote on top of the other primer you are putting on? 

I might be mistaken, but I thought that Pre-Kote was mainly for wood and fiberglass applications. You should be fine with just the Rustoleum primer. Just remember multiple light/thin coats of each coat with light wet sanding in between each coat (for both primer and final coat)


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## ober51

russ010 said:


> any particular reason your going to use Pre-Kote on top of the other primer you are putting on?
> 
> I might be mistaken, but I thought that Pre-Kote was mainly for wood and fiberglass applications. You should be fine with just the Rustoleum primer. Just remember multiple light/thin coats of each coat with light wet sanding in between each coat (for both primer and final coat)



Russ, I was going to use it to give the Brightside an even nicer finish. I am going to call Interlux tomorrow and find out, since that's actually what the can says to do. I'd rather not use the PreKote since it will save time, but I want it to look good, you know?


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## russ010

It will look good with out it - trust me on that one!

I used cheap but good zinc chromate primer on my boat and put 2 good layers. I think used Pettit Easy Poxy (equivalent of Brightside) and it will still come out shining and looking awesome. You get the best look from the prep work - multiple light/thin coats (atleast 2, but preferably 3), and wetsand with like 250-300 grit sand paper. It won't seem like that paper is doing much, but you'd be amazed the difference if you didn't do it. That is where you get the best job. 

Are you going to spray it or brush it on? either way, I recommend getting a brush or spray thinner to use. It will use your paint to the fullest and give you a lot more to work with.


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## ober51

russ010 said:


> It will look good with out it - trust me on that one!
> 
> I used cheap but good zinc chromate primer on my boat and put 2 good layers. I think used Pettit Easy Poxy (equivalent of Brightside) and it will still come out shining and looking awesome. You get the best look from the prep work - multiple light/thin coats (atleast 2, but preferably 3), and wetsand with like 250-300 grit sand paper. It won't seem like that paper is doing much, but you'd be amazed the difference if you didn't do it. That is where you get the best job.
> 
> Are you going to spray it or brush it on? either way, I recommend getting a brush or spray thinner to use. It will use your paint to the fullest and give you a lot more to work with.



Yeah I (dry) sanded in between top coats last time and it came out nice. I didn't do it between primer, but I guess I will this time. Also, I've never wet sanded, is it hard? Do I just get some water and dip and sand? I also am going to brush the paint on like last time without the thinner. Should I used thinner? I have a lot of the stuff (well, my dad does) laying around, I am just afraid I won't mix it right. Can I use any paint thinner? Or do I have to buy special stuff for Brightside?


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## ober51

Ok, well a good, but frustrating day for sure. There was a section of my boat that the Steel Flex just didn't dry/cure overnight. It turns out I didn't mix the stuff well - and time was not going to heal this wound. I had to spend about 2 hours taking off the stuff that was tacky, which was more than I care to show, but I will. I had to take a scraper and scrape it off, it was tacky and awful> I did that as best I could, then took acetone and rubbed the hell out of the side, trying to remove any stickiness and a decent base to reapply. I am going to sand a little tomorrow in the spots I can, and then pray that it works this time around. In fact, I may just test one area, not sure yet. 

I was able to prime everything today (aside from the transom/stern, which needs one more coat tomorrow), not a big deal. I put 3 coats of primer, sanded in between each, and got it ready for tomorrow's top coat, Interlux Brightside. That would be rewarding, but not before I have to mix Steef Flex again and apply to that one section. This means that I am not going to be able to paint it all at once. I will have to paint the front and one side, wait until the Steel Flex almost cures, and then paint the other side. Not happy, but that's life. With rain coming in over the weekend, it looks as if I may one get one coat on for now. 

Here are some pictures, and obviously, you can see the side that was such a PITA. I guess if I use Steel Flex again I should have it down pat - hey, 3 times the charm, right?! Ugh, lol.


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## Stryker777

Looks sharp Ober! Good job!


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## Cheeseball

Lookin good! Just remember... once you get through this part the fun starts!


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## ober51

Thanks, guys. I am just hoping to have enough funds to do the rest of the boat this year - decks and whatnot. With grad school and another year of school ahead, I may have to hold off. I think I am going to price everything out, literally everything, from the strong ties and wood to lights, etc. If it's over a set price, I just won't be able to do it. But I have the cosmetic stuff, so I am all set there. 

The paint tomorrow should be nice - I am hoping it's going to pop a bit.


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## russ010

sorry I haven't responded sooner....

wetsanding is pretty much just getting a waterhose and keeping it running lightly over the area you are sanding, but you can get by just wetting your sand paper every minute or so

You don't have to use thinner... but since you are brushing it you would really do better with a "brushing" thinner. If you don't have it, don't worry bout getting it. Just put a good coat on by brushing and you'll be fine.

The primer job you did looks good - you're paint is going to be even better!


----------



## ober51

russ010 said:


> sorry I haven't responded sooner....
> 
> wetsanding is pretty much just getting a waterhose and keeping it running lightly over the area you are sanding, but you can get by just wetting your sand paper every minute or so
> 
> You don't have to use thinner... but since you are brushing it you would really do better with a "brushing" thinner. If you don't have it, don't worry bout getting it. Just put a good coat on by brushing and you'll be fine.
> 
> The primer job you did looks good - you're paint is going to be even better!



Thanks, Russ. I will have to just wait to wet sand, since it's too late now, haha. I bet it does make a difference, but if I've never done it, I'll never know :wink:


----------



## ober51

Ok, so I got about 3/5 of the first coat done. I have to wait until the other side with the Steel Flex is dry. That side is not very nice on the eyes, lol, but maybe with some paint it will shape up. Whatever though, this boat needed to be sealed, so it had to be done. 

I like the color, but it's going to need about 3 coats of paint to really look nice. This means that with rain tomrorow, the next couple of coats will have to wait until next week. That's fine though, because I need to wait for another quart of Brightside Sapphire Blue to come in from JamestownDistributors.com I feel like a white pinstripe or design is going to look nice, or maybe have Mon Ark in white on the side, we'll see. 

I figure I will use the left over of the Sapphire and the Steel Gray I had from my other project to paint the interior. I won't have to go that nuts with that since I will be modding that anyway.

EDIT: I was able to finish the first coat today, as the Steel Flex was dry enough to remove the painter's tape. This also means I mixed it well/ratio was correct, phew. By the way - taking a look at the pictures, FirstCoat4 is the most accurate color representation.


----------



## ober51

Took a few hours and put the second coat on. It looks as if 95% is covered. I think rather than doing a full third coat I just may lightly apply a spot coat. We'll see. Looks much better though, and gives a true representation of the color. Also cleaned up the lines with painter's tape, pics to come later.


----------



## MikeA57

That's looking GREAT Ober!! I just wish I could get past the problems I'm having with one of the wheels on my trailer so I could get my boat back on her. You're making great progress though - don't give up!

Mike


----------



## ober51

MikeA57 said:


> That's looking GREAT Ober!! I just wish I could get past the problems I'm having with one of the wheels on my trailer so I could get my boat back on her. You're making great progress though - don't give up!
> 
> Mike



Thanks, Mike. Here is the second coat. Like I mentioned, debating whether to put a third - any suggestions? Might be the smart thing to do. Jamestown delivered today, so next nice day it's either that, or start working on the transom replacement.

That reminds me - I was looking at the transom, and I am wondering how I will get one piece of plywood behind the bracket? How can I shimmy it back there without using two pieces? Is it bad to use two pieces?


----------



## dyeguy1212

I dont see any problem using two pieces... I've seen a lot of people do that


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## ober51

I almost forgot! I saw an ad on Craigslist for a 12' tri hull Starcraft and a 2002 Yammy 9.9 I asked how much for just the motor and he gave me a price I could live with - $800. Checking on NADA (I know it's just a number they give that is sometimes inaccurate) but it was well below that $1000-1200 they said it was worth. The only way I could even afford this was because I basically sold my 1989 8 HP Yammy for double what I paid. I only have a few hundred invested in a motor - so I am VERY happy. The motor hasn't even been used in 5 years except for maintenance. He told me he thought the motor has under 40 hours on it. I was skeptical but I went and took a look and I was convinced. He ran it for me, and boy I was sold. Couple that with the electric start, thruster model, and I was excited. Here are a couple pics. Did I get a good deal or was I/am I delusional, lol. I think it will look good on the boat. Oh, and I will have to build a jack plate or build up the transom I think. Haven't made official measurements, but it's a long shaft, and I believe my transom to be 15". So I will be looking at some good mods in that department.

Should I change the lower unit oil? Impeller? Etc? What maintenance should I do if any to this motor?


----------



## Stryker777

Very nice! That is going to move your rig around great. Hope to find something around that size myself. Great find Ober!


----------



## Zum

Nice find on the motor,I'd still check the compression but it looks very well cared for,doesn't look to have any scratches on it.
You should get a manual for it,find out the proper type oil for it and filter,change lower unit oil,prob.the impellor to.He had it running for you right,,,did he say he just changed the oil,was it pumping good?
Anyways sure does look nice.

I'd hold off on the painting till you fix the stern and possble build(up) or jack plate.


----------



## ober51

Zum said:


> Nice find on the motor,I'd still check the compression but it looks very well cared for,doesn't look to have any scratches on it.
> You should get a manual for it,find out the proper type oil for it and filter,change lower unit oil,prob.the impellor to.He had it running for you right,,,did he say he just changed the oil,was it pumping good?
> Anyways sure does look nice.
> 
> I'd hold off on the painting till you fix the stern and possble build(up) or jack plate.



He did run it - but I was still wondering what I should change. I think I will change the lower oil. He gave me the owner's manual, so I know all the specs for the motor. He hasn't changed the lower unit oil in a while but he hasn't ran it in a while either - does that matter? And I didn't ask about the impeller. I have never changed even the lower oil or an impeller, so I am thinking I should get a service manual for this, even if it is simple. I shouldn't have to bring it in for service for something that simple no? And are there one time use seals that need to be replaced once I do all of this?

Definitely waiting on the paint inside until I build up the transom. Before I do that might it be better to just buy a jack plate? Maybe the mini jacker? Is a kicker bracket acceptable for a 9.9 motor? Or do I have to buy a jack plate?


----------



## ober51

Don't all answer at once!

Haha, not a problem. Another good score today at the dog groomer of all places. Her husband has his own construction company, and big machinery, etc. So after I dropped the dog off, I ran back into speak to her, and asked if she could ask him about any diamond plated aluminum, a 12"x31" to be exact. As she was jotting it down, he happened by so I grabbed him. He said he might have something since he put diamond plating on his rig to protect against some rubbing when they do concrete removal. I said it doesn't have to be diamond plated, but that would be ideal. He opens up his storage unit, and right in the corner is a piece of diamond plated aluminum. What's the size? 12"x36"! It has a couple dings and whatnot, but once I clean it up and bend it to form, trim a bit off, I'll wrap that puppy around some wood, bolt it through the transom and have myself a spot for my long shaft Yammy. Save me some money, so it was a good day =D>


----------



## ober51

Welp, rookie mistake (and a $40 one, too). I grabbed the wrong AC ply today at Home Depot, and had it cut. So no bringing it back. The wood was for the transom, and I bought 3/4 rather than 5/8ths (which I need to sandwich together to make the transom).

I guess it's back to HD tomorrow for some 5/8ths, and try and salvage whatever I can for the decking. Frustrating, but whatever. Powerwashing the inside of the boat in about a min or so. So no pics, just a frustrating update!


----------



## ober51

Work and rain = me working on it this weekend. ALso found a great deal on Craigslist that might tempt me to get another boat, lol :shock: 15' grizzly, 30 hp rude, trolling motor, trailer, electrical, all for 1,000. Guy might take 800.


----------



## dyeguy1212

ober51 said:


> Work and rain = me working on it this weekend. ALso found a great deal on Craigslist that might tempt me to get another boat, lol :shock: 15' grizzly, 30 hp rude, trolling motor, trailer, electrical, all for 1,000. Guy might take 800.



Buy it, and sell it to me for more. I want one of those soooo bad!


Sorry to be blunt, but you are an idiot if you can come close to affording that and you let it pass you by.


----------



## ober51

dyeguy1212 said:


> ober51 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Work and rain = me working on it this weekend. ALso found a great deal on Craigslist that might tempt me to get another boat, lol :shock: 15' grizzly, 30 hp rude, trolling motor, trailer, electrical, all for 1,000. Guy might take 800.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buy it, and sell it to me for more. I want one of those soooo bad!
> 
> 
> Sorry to be blunt, but you are an idiot if you can come close to affording that and you let it pass you by.
Click to expand...



Haha, when you don't have money, and you don't have your own house, and you don't have room, you generally don't buy the boat. However, I am STRONGLY considering just buy it and taking the motor and selling the boat and trailer for what I pay.


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## dyeguy1212

I wish you lived closer.. I'd be taking a drive over to buy it as soon as you get it...


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## ober51

I was finally able to get some work done on the inside. I sanded it down and primed. Tomorrow some Interlux. I realized that all this work - or most - was going to be covered by the decks and storage, so I saved myself seom work and only did the upper gunwales. It looks weird now, but will be fine once everything is done. Pictures will be taken tomorrow.


----------



## ober51

Doesn't look pretty, but since it will all be covered anyway, it doesn't matter. Forgot to take pics, and I am lazy right now. 

Up next is marine inspection in NJ for new HIN number and a title, let's hope it passes [-o<


----------



## ober51

Ok, so I finished off the transom. Looks solid, feels solid, let's hope it performs solidly. Made sure to put some 3M 5200 in each hole, and it should be good for years. Going to start thinking about my transom build-up, might call around to see if a machine shop can bend the diamond plate (since I haven't gotten the chance to ask the shop teacher at school).


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## dyeguy1212

cut the laziness! pics or it didnt happen! 8)


----------



## ober51

dyeguy1212 said:


> cut the laziness! pics or it didnt happen! 8)



Haha, I freaking covered and tarped it today without snapping pics. Tomorrow I am going to bring it for marine inspection, so I guess I'll have them then.


----------



## ober51

Well, the HIN investigation came back on my boat and it's all clear. Took 10 days to do with it being from out of state, yada yada yada. But, I will be off to the DMV to get it registered and also have my driver's license include the term, "boat." When I went to get my boat from the NJ State Police Marina today, it had about 100 gallons of water in it, haha. Meaning that if it was holding water, none should get in...right? Lol. But they pulled out what the guy called an 8000 GPH dual bilge pump, hooked it up the NJ Trooper Excursion battery terminals and it took about 2 minutes to pump out, awesome stuff.

June in Jersey has been absolutely brutal, with only 3 days without rain! I haven't done anything, aside from the transom rebuild, so when there is a break in this terrible weather I promise pictures. 

Also might go take a look at another boat tomorrow, haha. It is a great deal, with a 14' Deep V Sylvan, solid trailer, and 1980's 25 HP Johnson is very good condition. It's a bit of a drive, but for about a grand I think it's worth it. I might just then flip the boat and trailer without the motor and then have a great running, bigger motor for bigger water, currents, etc. We'll see. Any thoughts on that?


----------



## daniel_loz

Well I just found out last night that the 1448 Jon I am working on is a Monark. It has that same oddly reinforced transom that yours does - what did you end up doing about it? I want to replace the transom wood but cant see any way to get the old wood out in one piece and definitely no way to get another single piece in there. I tried to measure the thickness, but it felt like the wood has swelled - any idea what thickness the wood is supposed to be. It almost felt like two pieces sandwiched together in there.


----------



## ober51

daniel_loz said:


> Well I just found out last night that the 1448 Jon I am working on is a Monark. It has that same oddly reinforced transom that yours does - what did you end up doing about it? I want to replace the transom wood but cant see any way to get the old wood out in one piece and definitely no way to get another single piece in there. I tried to measure the thickness, but it felt like the wood has swelled - any idea what thickness the wood is supposed to be. It almost felt like two pieces sandwiched together in there.



I had to do three pieces actually. Unless I wanted to take out the transom bracket, which I didnt want to do. It looks nice, and the thickness of mine was 1.25", so I used 2 pieces of 5/8ths with came to 10/8 = 1.25. It was a snug fit, but that's good, and I used a block of wood and then hit it with a sledge lightly and it went in. I put the middle piece in first, got that semi in, then put on of the corners in, then knocked the middle into place, and that basically put the one side into place. Then when that was in place, I had to put the third piece in, but I had to cut a bit off, I think an inch actually, to get it to fit in. It was a good fit in the end. I put some waterproof glue in between the three pieces. I then drilled my holes, used all SS hardware, and sealed the holes with 3M 5200. Ill go take pics hold on.

Also remember that I will be building up the transom, so above that bracket there will be some additional bolts, washers, nuts. I think it came out well, pretty sweet so far.

Now for more bad news, still can't register the boat in NJ!! I now need the previous owner's registration...he lives in Connecticut, and never registered the boat. I asked the NJ DMV, they said CT will issue some paperwork detailing that. I called CT, and they said for $20 I can request a registration history on the boat (which he ran for me to tell me what it will come back as, and said it will be blank, since it was a CT state fishing boat) and that will be fine for NJ. I am skeptical, and beginning to think this boat is just not meant to be. I am going to get that boat tomorrow, so I can have a boat for the summer. Crazy? Yes, but I will sell one of these boats when I have to. Really hoping this works itself out - we'll see. So I am not putting another cent into it until I find out if it's going to be alright, you can probably all understand.


----------



## daniel_loz

Well I am looking into having some welding done on mine - new caps put around the top lip near the front of the boat...mine was a catfish farm boat and they bashed that rounded top lip almost flat around the front. I may see if he can remove that transom support for me and then weld it back it after I replace the transom. My transom was reinforced from the top with two more welded supports that run from the top of the transom to the rear bench seat because they ran a 50hp or larger motor on the back...

I will try and get a picture of the supports, between the factory one on the floor and the two on top - its going to be impossible for me to replace the transom.


----------



## ober51

daniel_loz said:


> Well I am looking into having some welding done on mine - new caps put around the top lip near the front of the boat...mine was a catfish farm boat and they bashed that rounded top lip almost flat around the front. I may see if he can remove that transom support for me and then weld it back it after I replace the transom. My transom was reinforced from the top with two more welded supports that run from the top of the transom to the rear bench seat because they ran a 50hp or larger motor on the back...
> 
> I will try and get a picture of the supports, between the factory one on the floor and the two on top - its going to be impossible for me to replace the transom.



Yeah, if I had a feeling my boat would be good to go with this registration thing, I would invest more into it. But at this point I'm on hold. I think youll figure something out, these boats are really solid and deserve a second life.


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## Loggerhead Mike

that sucks about your registration. i went threw the same deal with mine, but my buddy i got it from is dead so i was sol. i have to make the trip to tennessee where i origionally registerd it to keepr legal

o yah,, that motor is sweeeeet good find. im hoping to find one just like it for that price range in a few months


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## daniel_loz

Ober, how wide is your floor?


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## ober51

daniel_loz said:


> Ober, how wide is your floor?



I measured early on and it was 46"

Yeah, the registration thing stinks. This is going to take all summer to get it done I bet. But I am going tomorrow for a long drive to get my next boat, spending the night in Rochester NY, and going to the International Jazz Festival. Should be a good time. So this thing is on hold for now. Look for a new thread about my next boat at some point this weekend. I have a class this summer that is killing me, soo much time, so I don't think it would be wise to do much to this new boat, and it likely doesn't need much other than some paint, since it's a bit old.


----------



## ober51

ANOTHER roadblock in my quest to register the boat. I contacted the PO, he didn't register the boat. I asked for the name of the guy that he bought it from, he doesn't know his last name. I contacted the DEP in Connecticut, they need the year the auction took place or some other information, and I can't get that unless I am able to get in contact with the first owner, the guy who bought the boat at auction and then sold it to the guy who sold it to me - and that's not possible since I dont have his last name. 

Various departments in both NJ and CT State Departments have told me the boat was never claimed stolen or anything, so I should be able to register it, but they are wrong. The NJ DMV I went to will not relent on some form of registration. I may have another option - I sent in a request for Vessel History for $20 to CT. They will send me back whatever information they have on the boat, which I am guessing shows it was a CT state Dept of Fisheries vessel that was sold at auction and never registered thereafter. I will then take that to a DIFFERENT DMV in NJ (there are a couple near me) and try from scratch. 

If that doesn't work, I might see if I can claim this boat abandoned and get it titled to myself. I doubt that will work given that part of the process to do so requires me to go to the NJ State Marine police to get it inspected....which I have already done and they have already put in paperwork. It seems that I should have claimed it abandoned on my property (or my grandfather's property or something) from the get go. I really don't think this is going to be resolved. I asked the DMV what the next step would be, and they said, "I don't know, but CT will have some paperwork." WRONG. It's almost unreal for me to say, but this boat may be headed to the scrap yard.


----------



## Zum

Have you read this post.
Will that site be an option for you.
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=8583&hilit=registering+boat


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## ober51

Zum said:


> Have you read this post.
> Will that site be an option for you.
> https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=8583&hilit=registering+boat



I forgot about this, but it will likely be my last option, maybe even my next option.


----------



## stinkynathan

ober51 said:


> Zum said:
> 
> 
> 
> Have you read this post.
> Will that site be an option for you.
> https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=8583&hilit=registering+boat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I forgot about this, but it will likely be my last option, maybe even my next option.
Click to expand...


Can you register it as "home made?" I had to do that with my Shorelander trailer here. Since it was from out of state and it didn't have a VIN plate or history the treasurer suggested I do it that way.

Possible to do that for a boat in your state?


----------



## ober51

stinkynathan said:


> ober51 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Zum said:
> 
> 
> 
> Have you read this post.
> Will that site be an option for you.
> https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=8583&hilit=registering+boat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I forgot about this, but it will likely be my last option, maybe even my next option.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Can you register it as "home made?" I had to do that with my Shorelander trailer here. Since it was from out of state and it didn't have a VIN plate or history the treasurer suggested I do it that way.
> 
> Possible to do that for a boat in your state?
Click to expand...


Yes, but I already brought it for inspection to the NJ State police marina for inspection. I cant bring it there again to the same two guys and say, "This is a homemade boat."

I have been looking at the International Title Service and its worth a shot. It's not a stolen boat and I would get the boat titled legitimately. Whether NJ DMV accepts it is another story. Reading about it online says they should but who knows?


----------



## ober51

Just sent out my stuff to International Title Service. Let's hope this works.


----------



## ober51

ober51 said:


> Just sent out my stuff to International Title Service. Let's hope this works.



Just called them up and asked what the turn around time was. I was told 7-10 days. That's pretty quick. I sent my stuff there this morning via Priority mail, 2 day shipping, so I am guess about 2 weeks from now. It looks as if they issue Maine registration and tags as well. Before I sent them the stuff this morning I called up the DMV in Trenton, NJ and asked what I need to title my boat here in NJ if I bought a boat out of state, and have the registration. They said I needed a title. I told them the state that the boat is coming from doesn't issue titles and only gives owners registration. They said hold on then came back and said that's fine, just bring Maine's registration and a notarized bill of sale and you're good to go. So as long as they send me the Maine registration and the notarized bill of sale like the promised, I'll be able to make it legal here in NJ.


----------



## rcgreat

Good luck ober I'm keeping my fingers crossed for you [-o< . I gave up on my first boat because Florida is very "precise" on what is needed for vessel registration.


----------



## lckstckn2smknbrls

I hope this works for you please let us know how it goes. I have passed on a few boats b/c of lack of paper work.


----------



## Trot Liner

I got an old 1973 Monark Jon its a great Boat. It goes in the water in Spring and out after Hunting Season never a problem.


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## ober51

Just called up ITS and asked for an update. They said there was a hang up at the DMV because the agency's new system went computerized but that it's all good and I should expect my title next week and not to worry. Stinks but I will continue using my Sylvan in the interim. Hoping to get that jon boat going so I can use my Yammy on the lakes around here!


----------



## ober51

Well, I decided rather than switching the boats from trailer to trailer, I will just use the trailer I bought with the 14' Sylvan to use with my 16' Monark. I added some extra long bunks and I will keep the other bunks that are on there now to minimize the weight placed on the new long bunks. I used treated wood, outdoor carpet glue, and outdoor carpet. Drilled some holes, bought some new trailer brackets, and used all new SS hardware. I'll snap pictures when I put them on tomorrow. Then I can put the boat back on a trailer, and add the mini jacker I just bought. I also water sealed the wood on the mini jacker (couple coats) so it will be ready to go.


----------



## ober51

Ok, so I knocked out the bunks - and who knows if this will work. I know they are unsupported at the end, but I can't find a trailer locally that I like that will fit my big jon. So i went out and spent about 50 bucks and made these bunks. I originally just had two more long bunks, but realized they would need more support if they were going to have a shot at supporting the transom. So I made three cross pieces, used the strong ties (the 2x4 fits right into it) and carpeted. It now seems MUCH sturdier, and I think it will do the trick. Here are some pictures of the finished product. I also left the other bunks that came with it to add a bit more support to what i made. 

I also bought a ladder stabilizer and some pvc, and will made some goal posts tomorrow or sometime this week. It's coming around and should be done by the time my paperwork arrives.


----------



## ben2go

Those look a little high.Can you lower the bunk brackets?Lower your boat is on the trailer the less you have to back down the ramp.Other than that it looks good n strong.


----------



## ober51

ben2go said:


> Those look a little high.Can you lower the bunk brackets?Lower your boat is on the trailer the less you have to back down the ramp.Other than that it looks good n strong.



Yeah, I have to tweak it yet - but I can't go too much lower because I am pretty sure my boat is wider than the trailer. So It will have to be up a bit, but hopefully not too high.


----------



## Zum

I'm curious on how it's going to handle.
Looks like alot of boat behind the axles,you have an outboard on this jon as well.It may be fine,bet you will have know trouble lifting it off the ball.
I have a question,kinda related...Do your lights have to be a certain distance from the end of your trailer?I would think so.


----------



## ben2go

Could you space your fenders out a little so the boat will fit between them?Most trailers only need 1.25 inches between the tire side wall and fender.Just tossin ideas out.


----------



## ober51

Zum said:


> I'm curious on how it's going to handle.
> Looks like alot of boat behind the axles,you have an outboard on this jon as well.It may be fine,bet you will have know trouble lifting it off the ball.
> I have a question,kinda related...Do your lights have to be a certain distance from the end of your trailer?I would think so.



This was one reason for lifting the boat a bit more - to give the lights some clearance. If that doesn't help, I will lower it as much as possible and put the lights on the goal posts I am about to make. This way the plate and lights are more visible and will be seen safely. 

I will also see about moving the fenders, I wonder what I can do to space them? Hmm. You have me thinking.


----------



## ober51

Ok, so one goal post is done. I had to modify the plans a bit and used both U bolts on the one side (unlike the plans on the site called for). I will pick up two U bolts tomorrow from West Marine and some hardware and that will be that. I really like the way it looks, will help a lot when I have to go deeper into the water. I am thinking I will screw the pvc into place, and wire up my lights up the pipe and mount the lights on these for safety reasons. 

I bought the ladder stabilizer and a piece of 2" PVC pipe. I cut the stabilizer in half and the PVC into 2 48" posts. It fits snugly on the end (still will screw it in place). I use the caps they provided on the cut end, but will likely use the remaining PVC to connect the two ends of the stabilizer under the trailer for better stability. 

ANy questions just ask.


----------



## Henry Hefner

What Zum may have been concerned about was weight distribution. Have you ever seen a trailer going down the road, shaking from side to side? 90% of the time this is caused by too much weight behind the axle. You should have at least 60% of the loaded trailer's weight in front of the axle to avoid pulling a "wiggle wagon".


----------



## ober51

Henry Hefner said:


> What Zum may have been concerned about was weight distribution. Have you ever seen a trailer going down the road, shaking from side to side? 90% of the time this is caused by too much weight behind the axle. You should have at least 60% of the loaded trailer's weight in front of the axle to avoid pulling a "wiggle wagon".



I totally understand that, but at this point, I will have to use this trailer for the rest of the season. I will see how it rides this week, hopefully not too "wiggly."


----------



## Zum

I hope they don't go all the way under the water---joking
Just a couple questions.
Is the guide on where you want it...width?
Is your boat wider then your fenders?
I'm thinking by the time your boat touches your guide-ons,it will already be on the trailer.
I don't mean to sound negative,they do look good just wondering if they will work where they are.
For me,to get mine to work,I need them as close to the sides as possible,makes the boat center everytime(atleast so far).Also I need them close to the end of the trailer so I can rest the bow up against one in windy conditions.Heres a picture,all PVC,run right across the frame for more support.

Every boat is different though,I submerge my bunks then bring them back up to where only the tips of the bunks are in the water and power load on.


----------



## ober51

Zum said:


> I hope they don't go all the way under the water---joking
> Just a couple questions.
> Is the guide on where you want it...width?
> No, I have yet to finalize where they will finally wind up - I will measure up the width of my boat and then add an inch or so. Then when the boat is on the trailer, I will finalize the position and lock them in.
> Is your boat wider then your fenders?
> I'm thinking by the time your boat touches your guide-ons,it will already be on the trailer.
> I don't mean to sound negative,they do look good just wondering if they will work where they are.
> For me,to get mine to work,I need them as close to the sides as possible,makes the boat center everytime(atleast so far).Also I need them close to the end of the trailer so I can rest the bow up against one in windy conditions.Heres a picture,all PVC,run right across the frame for more support.
> Yes, the guide ons are a bit further up the trailer than I would like, but that's because I dont have any trailer frame back by the end of the bunks. I am actually more concerned with the lights being visible at this point, which is why I am almost certain to run them up the guide ons. I am brainstorming ways to attach the guideons back further on the trailer. Actually, I think I may have something. I may be able to put the pvc under my bunks, then attach them to the under side of the bunks, much like you see old school piping attached to a ceiling by a half circle, screwed holder (it makes sense in my mind, hard to relay that here though).But this makes it hard to wire the trailer down the bunks then into the PVC then up. I will come up with something. At least the guideons will give people a chance to see the lights better.
> Every boat is different though,I submerge my bunks then bring them back up to where only the tips of the bunks are in the water and power load on.



Thanks for the input, it's very helpful, not negative at all.


----------



## ober51

Boat is back on the trailer, and the trailer seems very sturdy. I am going to start working on getting the mini jacker on this thing in order to use the Yammy.

I'll post some pics of the boat on there later. The bunks are like 3" or so past the transom, so it's all supported, which makes me feel better. I looked at the clearance between the boat and the fenders, I can't really lower the bunks any. That stinks but being higher it will enable me to tow the boat with the motor down I think without a transom saver. I can't use a transom saver anyway because the trailer frame is far under the boat. So although the boat sits higher, it likely enables me to tow the motor without fear of it hitting the ground. 

Hoping the ITS papers come in a few minutes, we'll see.

STILL no papers, damn. It's only Wednesday, but I was hoping to have the registration, because the mini jacker is just about on and ready for the Yammy.


----------



## ober51

Mini Jacker installed. Here are a few pics. One of the holes took off a decent amount of wood when it broke through - so I had to put a bunch of 5200 on it to make sure it will be sealed. Overall, the transom wood took a pounding when it was at the state marina - they left it out in the open for a few weeks (to be expected) and it was the worst month of June rain-wise in NJ history I believe. The wood is completely dry now, and I am thinking of painting over it with gray deck paint. I think it will look better anyway. We'll see. When I installed the mini jacker, it pulled the middle of the three sections of wood tighter. I then went ahead and added big bolts to the other 2 sections, to make sure it was completely solid across the transom (they are the lower bolts on the outside sections). Might hacksaw them down a bit. 

I am itching to get this in the water, hopefully that is really, really soon. Probably going to hold off modding it until later, as I want to enjoy using it. The one thing I might do is add a bow deck for my gf to lay on. Might just do it right and take the few hours and have it done.


----------



## ben2go

That jack plate looks right at home.Gud werk.


----------



## ober51

ben2go said:


> That jack plate looks right at home.Gud werk.



Thanks, man. Yeah, I am DYING to get it out there. Also have a line a long shaft 25 hp, had to sell my short shaft 25 yesterday.


----------



## ober51

Figured I'd start on the front deck. Bought some wood, strong ties (the RBT22's were too small for my ribs, so I am going to just use strong tie angles), and sealer. Have to run to West Marine for SSS hardware. I also bought nylon washers to go between strong ties and ribs. 

Will take pics later, already sealed some wood, but I have to meet a client now.


----------



## ben2go

ober51 said:


> Figured I'd start on the front deck. Bought some wood, strong ties (the RBT22's were too small for my ribs, so I am going to just use strong tie angles), and sealer. Have to run to West Marine for SSS hardware. I also bought nylon washers to go between strong ties and ribs.
> 
> Will take pics later, already sealed some wood, but I have to meet a client now.




Good idea on the nylon washers.I was gonna suggest thin wood.Nylon will out last the wood.


----------



## ober51

Welp, I figure I am going to have to triple everything, haha. I realized I needed more stuff, so I spent most of the day running around, getting the SS hardware from West Marine, getting more 2x2s, etc. I only connected one 2x2 today, but tomorrow I am waking up early and going to try and bang out the framing. This is the first thing I have ever really built, so it will be slow going, but fun. I am only using the SS hardware when the metal touches metal, I am using industrial outdoor screws for the wood. The SS hardware is just too expensive to use it all around (I expected that). 

No pictures until I have some progress to show, which should be tomorrow I hope. Once I get this front deck framed and the lights and electrical wired, there will be absolutely no more building this summer (hoping there will be summer left by the time I am done with this, lol) and all fishing and enjoying the water.


----------



## ober51

Ok, finally some progress to report. It's much more slow going than even I thought. I had to stop because I ran out of screws, despite being told by my father to grab another box because I would need them (did I listen? Nope). 

I am not finished framing obviously. I have more to do, and will add another 2x2 on the outsides to give support for the edge of the deck. 

I had to go to 2 Home Depots to get enough RBT22's - the one in my town had none left. That's the nice thing about Northeast Jersey, 10 of every store within 10 miles. I was sick of using the nylon washers - I figured there had to be another way. They were each 75 cents to a dollar! So I started thinking - could I buy a sheet of this stuff and cut it to the size I need? Then I thought that I would stroll down the plumbing aisles to see what I could find. Lo and behold, I found the perfect thing - rubber gasket material. It comes in 6x6 small red squares, two to a package, for 3.99. Score, I cut a bunch of little squares, they work so much better. 

I am hoping I have enough SS screws to get me through this deck, but I highly doubt it, which means I will have to take another stroll to Home Depot and spend more money on hardware. I need to pick out some handles or cut up some nylon straps, we'll see. Also need to pick up a sheet of 3/4" ply.

Pics are below.


----------



## ober51

This is the most up to date pic of the framing.


----------



## ben2go

Looks good.Good call on the rubber gasket material.


----------



## ober51

ben2go said:


> Looks good.Good call on the rubber gasket material.



Thanks. I am thinking I am going to want to overbuild this deck rather than under build it, you know?


----------



## Bugpac

What are you using for ties? Galvanized or are the alum?


----------



## ober51

Bugpac said:


> What are you using for ties? Galvanized or are the alum?



Galvanized Simpson strong ties. But there is rubberized gasket material or nylon washers between them and the aluminum boat.Should be good to go.


----------



## Bugpac

Then just rivited? I am just looking for info to do mine  I want to raise the floor a bit...


----------



## ober51

Bugpac said:


> Then just rivited? I am just looking for info to do mine  I want to raise the floor a bit...



A lot of people use rivets, but I chose to do stainless screws and exterior galvanized screws (used these for wood to wood drilling, not wood to metal).


----------



## ober51

An update - the framing is done. The deck is cut - just need to cut out the hatches. It's going to rain tonight, so the tarp is up and the deck is in the shed. It has a coat of sealer, and one coat of spar varnish. I didn't realize my dad bought me Cabot's Marine Varnish, so I will lightly sand with 220 grit and apply that for the next coat. Then I am going to repeat that process an additional 2-4 times, depending on weather, when the marine carpet comes in, and the paperwork from ITS arrives (still waiting for that, though they promised soon, the wait is killing me).

It's really the first thing I've ever built, but I kind of like it, very rewarding (and super time consuming). I bought 4 big galvanized hinges, not sure if I want to use them, though they are pretty solid. The deck is solid, I walked all over it without the plywood, and it didn't give (I'm over 230lbs before breakfast, lol). And with the ply it seemed great. Even made me much smaller, 5 foot gf get up there, she said it was high and she was a bit scared, haha. Pumped about it being sturdy, though.

I have to close my eyes when I look at the left side of my deck curve - I've never used a jig saw, and it came out pretty awful, lol. MY brother said it almost looks like a design, ha. But once the carpet is on it, and I might put some thing there, like a ledge, haven't decided yet. So while it bothers me a bit, I can live with it seeing as it's my first time. Also, the plywood was too short, it only reached 48", so I have another few inches I have to decide on something to do with it. I will likely just cut two pieces and put it there, it won't be ideal but it will have to do. I am going to just put a temp floor on the other parts of the boat I think, I bought some indoor out door carpet without rubber backing I will use. Then in the fall, if I have time, I will make it permanent (we'll see, it's all in the future as of now, so not speaking definitively here).

Here are a few pics.


----------



## duckinga

looking good! Thats not to bad of a cut considering it was your first time with a jigsaw...


----------



## ober51

duckinga said:


> looking good! Thats not to bad of a cut considering it was your first time with a jigsaw...



Thanks, but no need to be nice, that cut stinks, haha. 

I was thinking of sanding or cutting again, but said leave well enoug alone. I really think with carpet and something along the side of the ledges you won't even see it. 

I am thinking of putting down some plywood - before I put on the deck - on the floor of the boat to deaden the noise, If I want to put an anchor or something in there. Wheels are turning.


----------



## fishinchef

the carpet will hide most of it. if it doesn't hide enough for you, you could always run some trim pieces down the sides.


----------



## ober51

fishinchef said:


> the carpet will hide most of it. if it doesn't hide enough for you, you could always run some trim pieces down the sides.



That's exactly my thinking. The hatches came out really well, can't complain there. Easier cut, but I was way more comfortable by that time.


----------



## ober51

ITS said my boat paperwork was mailed out today, should get it by Saturday, it's coming from Florida. Pretty pumped. My base, pole, and seat set was shipped from Cabelas, which should be here Monday. My boat carpet is in route and should be here Friday - meaning as long as I have 3-4 coats of Marine Varnish on my front deck, and my two floors by Friday - Saturday is carpet day. Might run some wiring tomorrow to have it there as to make it easier when I do add the lights.


----------



## Zum

Thats great about the paper work,hope they weren't fibbin.


----------



## ober51

Zum said:


> Thats great about the paper work,hope they weren't fibbin.



Me too. I think I'll get it, just need it to get me registered here in NJ.


----------



## ober51

Dunno if anyone is following, lol, but I might as well update. I got the switch panel from ebay, and made a little box out of red oak I had gotten free from Home Depot (long story) to house the switch panel. I will cut an access hole in the back, and if I ever need to replace a fuse or anything I can just unscrew the four bolts in the front. Looks like it will work well. I am not going to carpet it, rather just put a few coats of marine varnish and let the naturally nice wood stand out. Came out nice, I will snap some pictures after the first coat dries later. I was also able to get the other sides of my floor varnished. Things take long than I expect, especially since I am so inexperienced, without a good workspace, and working with crappy weather.


----------



## ober51

Got the carpet laid on the deck and the hatches. Looks nice, just need to tweak a few things to make it structurally sound. Really like it considering it was the first time Ive ever done anything haha.

Pics later.


----------



## evattman

Ober, Im following!!  Cants wait to see her!!


----------



## ober51

Here are some pictures via the phone, misplaced the cord again ](*,) 

As you can see - I have that little remaining strip at the end of the bench. I will probably make a 6" strip, then box that bench seat in to give it a finished look. But I am done for now. I need that ITS stuff so I can at least take it out - driving me nuts - and a lot of stuff to do for grad school this week, ugh. But with questionable weather all week, it will force me inside most likely anyway. 

So the top deck is done. The hatches are almost flush, haha. But seriously, as long as it's functional and looks halfway decent like I think it does, I am satisfied for this being the first time I've ever built anything or attempted to build anything. I might not even put hinges on the hatches, just put some nylon strips and call it a day, we'll see. 

I also carpeted the floors in between the seats. I watersealed the plywood floors, then varnished a bunch of coats, and then carpet. Looks good, covers the floor, and gives me flat surface to stand and fish without tripping over those huge ribs. 

I think that's everything, here are the pictures, can only get two, the bluetooth on my phone and computer is acting up.


----------



## Waterwings

Lookin' good! 8) 

Just a quick thought: If not attached with hinges, you don't think the hatches might blow out of the deck while the boat is in tow do you? You never know what'll happen (jar loose after hitting a pothole, etc), and would hate to see a vehicle behind you "catch" a lid or two.


----------



## ober51

Waterwings said:


> Lookin' good! 8)
> 
> Just a quick thought: If not attached with hinges, you don't think the hatches might blow out of the deck while the boat is in tow do you? You never know what'll happen (jar loose after hitting a pothole, etc), and would hate to see a vehicle behind you "catch" a lid or two.



Good point, hinges it is!


----------



## ober51

Welp, don't be afraid to use International Title Service (ITS) if you live in NJ. I received my authentic title from the state of Florida in the mail today, drove directly over to the DMV here in NJ, and left 10 minutes later with my NJ state boat registration and NJ title! It took a little more time than I anticipated, but I do believe them when they said that NJ is the only state they need to take an extra step in order to make it work. Really, really excited, finally get this guy on the water. Weather permitting it will happen tomorrow, since I have to be at class tonight at 5. Chomping at the bit!


----------



## ober51

WElp, it was the first time on the water for this boat and it was solid. I stood on the bow deck and it was very stable. The hatches have yet to receive hinges, as I wanted to get out there today. They didn't blow away on the ride over to the lake. The T9.9 Yamaha runs so smooth - quiet and decent power. Although it doesn't push me nearly as fast as my old 25 Johnson the lakes around here are limited to 10 HP anyway. In the future I'll spring for the 25 HP, but for now this is fine. 

It looks like I will need some weight in the front of the boat. I am planning on putting another battery in the front compartment - it will be used for all electronics and lights that I plan on installing at some point - and that should help. Thankfully I created two floors for the boat, I can't stand walking over those 2" ribs, just really frustrating. I didn't use them today because I just carpeted them two days ago, I'd like to give them the full 5 days of curing time for the carpet glue. 

I also would like to get a bow mount motor. It's just too annoying to steer with my hand and it cuts down on fishing time dramatically. I am going to sell my TM 40# Endura, it's a good motor, just not what I need. 

I took a video, but I am no photographer, lol. When I upload it I will post it here. All in all a good day - finally nice to get out on the water! The only downfall was no fish, ha. Skunked again :|


----------



## Lenny

Awesome job with the boat. I just got me a 16 footer and cant wait to mod mine. My question is how did you lug your boat around off the trailer to paint and do mods. My boat is pretty darn heavy and was wondering if you had a trick to it.


----------



## ober51

Lenny said:


> Awesome job with the boat. I just got me a 16 footer and cant wait to mod mine. My question is how did you lug your boat around off the trailer to paint and do mods. My boat is pretty darn heavy and was wondering if you had a trick to it.



Thanks, Lenny. I've only really just begun with the mods on the interior. 

Glad you asked this question. The first 14' semi v I had was nothing, I could basically do that myself. The trick to this one...is having 4 brothers. They were pretty good about it until the 5th time or so, lol. I've seen some guys rig up cables and ratchets and use tree branches outside or bolts in their attic connected to long 2x4s across some beams down through their garage to move their boat. Unfortunately there is no easy way without help, especially once you start adding weight to these things.


----------



## ober51

Video of today, nothing special, just running under a bridge, and a cheesy tag line, lol.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2qgH0O-dQ0I


----------



## evattman

Very nice video!! :mrgreen: Man, in the video it looked like a tight fit under that bridge!


----------



## ober51

evattman said:


> Very nice video!! :mrgreen: Man, in the video it looked like a tight fit under that bridge!



Ha, it wasn't that bad. HOWEVER, when I had my 14' v, and the 25 hp on the back, it was a tight fit. I didn't realize it until my gf screamed at me after we went under. She was sitting in the front, and the boat was planed...needless to say on the way back we went a lot slower, haha.


----------



## ober51

Before the skies open in a minute or so around here (AGAIN), I was able to finish the two pieces I needed for the front deck. Came out alright, I will have to screw them in place when I attach everything at a later date. I think I am also going to forego (at this point) another small front deck. Depending on when I get the bow mount motor, I will make a decision what I want to do then about building a deck or just a motor mount. 

I also remembered yesterday that these aluminum benches get SUPER hot in the sun. I have decided to run some wood on the seat benches, it will not get nearly as hot and it will provide a finished look. So today I cut out the wood for one of the seats, and put some water sealer. I think it will also get a coat of varnish before I lay the carpet on the next nice day (maybe tomorrow morning).

I haven't decided what is next, but I think a break is in order before issues such as interior lights and nav lights. Slowly but surely it's coming together. Here is a picture of the front deck.


----------



## ben2go

Nice werk..


----------



## ober51

ben2go said:


> Nice werk..



Thanks, Ben. Definitely coming along. Every time I say, "I'm done for the summer," I can't help but think of something else I want to get done.


----------



## ober51

Does anyone know where I can get some decals like the ones pictured?

I would like it to be all white and solid, even the three fish. I wouldn't want the Monticello part - but I'd like to have the 3 fish under the "Ark" part, not the "Mon" part. Might be too old to get some? Or maybe someone has an idea where I can pick some up, it would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## ober51

I cant just do something and stop where I want. I am always adding. I decided to make a side storage compartment on the starboard side immediately behind the bow deck. Almost done, just need to box it in when I have a chance. Might not even do that, really depends on whether I want to try again, considering I freaking cut the carpet and glued the wrong side of the wood, rendering useless over an hour of work #-o It happens, just frustrating!

Pic from phone isn't working, frustrating.


----------



## Waterwings

ober51 said:


> Does anyone know where I can get some decals like the ones pictured?
> 
> I would like it to be all white and solid, even the three fish. I wouldn't want the Monticello part - but I'd like to have the 3 fish under the "Ark" part, not the "Mon" part. Might be too old to get some? Or maybe someone has an idea where I can pick some up, it would be greatly appreciated.




Checkout the cool stuff at Iguanagrafix, which is one of the site sponsors, and I'm pretty sure he can make what you need: https://www.iguanagrafix.com/ . 8)


----------



## ober51

Waterwings said:


> ober51 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know where I can get some decals like the ones pictured?
> 
> I would like it to be all white and solid, even the three fish. I wouldn't want the Monticello part - but I'd like to have the 3 fish under the "Ark" part, not the "Mon" part. Might be too old to get some? Or maybe someone has an idea where I can pick some up, it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Checkout the cool stuff at Iguanagrafix, which is one of the site sponsors, and I'm pretty sure he can make what you need: https://www.iguanagrafix.com/ . 8)
Click to expand...


Sweet, I will give him a shout.

I just bought a 40lb thrust Minn Kota foot controlled bow mount motor. https://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0047758013620a&type=product&cmCat=froogle&cm_ven=data_feed&cm_cat=froogle&cm_pla=2070201&cm_ite=0047758013620a

I saw it on Craigslist - it was brand new in the box, and $150. Great deal, but it was 2 hours from me. I wound up only driving 45 minutes to get it, convinced the guy to meet me half way 8) Need to create a platform to put this guy on. That's my next project.

Anyone have an experience with these motors? I have a Minn Kota 40lb TM, is it similar?


----------



## Waterwings

I run a 40# thrust MK Endura on the stern and it's a decent tm, just wish I would have bought one with more thrust.


----------



## ober51

Waterwings said:


> I run a 40# thrust MK Endura on the stern and it's a decent tm, just wish I would have bought one with more thrust.



That's what I have right now. I don't mind the trhust at all, just cant stand not being able to utilize the bow deck I just made, lol.


----------



## ober51

Finally resolved the bluetooth issue btwn my phone and computer. Here is a pic of the progress, I will get a few more of the framing when the weather clears.


----------



## ober51

I forgot I did take a shot of the framing, I can take more if people need it.


----------



## ober51

I wound up doing a bit of work today, I boxed in that storage area and made the seat supports. Need to get another sheet of ply and some 2x2s tomorrow or Monday. Here are a few pics.


----------



## Henry Hefner

As Chico used to say... Looooking good!


----------



## ober51

Henry Hefner said:


> As Chico used to say... Looooking good!



Thanks, Hef. Taking a lot of time to do but it should be worth it when the rig is much more comfortable to fish out of.


----------



## ober51

Got some work done today (I worked all day, though you wouldnt know it!).

I was able to fab a bracket for the bow motor. Took me forever, trips to West Marine for hardware, etc. Also cut out the hole for the seat, installed the base and such. Honestly don't know if I feel like wiring ANYTHING this summer, I really want to fish. Plus, my brother said he wants to go out, and we havent had much time to hang out lately, so I will do that this week rather than any more work. Going to pick up the 25 HP Tohatsu tomorrow, stick steering is on the way as its being shipped tomorrow. Starting to come around, pics to follow. Gotta get ready for class.


----------



## ober51

A few pics of the progress.


----------



## ober51

I took the boat out today with my brother and his friend. The fishing stunk, skunked with only a bite or two in 3 hours, but the boat handles 3 adults well. Snug, but not bad at all. Two of the adults are big guys, so with only 2 people it would be perfect, but easily supports 3 no problem. The 9.9 doesnt get us on a plane (I dont think) but moves us around well). There is a huge performance difference with all that weight today (Obviously). Going out tomorrow again even though my piano hinges came in from Aircraft Spruce (great deals if you want to get something there). 

Couple thoughts. Bow/foot controlled trolling motor works great - what an improvement from the transom mount TM! The 40lb thrust is enough to keep my 16' boat where ever I want it to be/go. The onboard charger I installed is awesome, too. Come home, pull out the extension cord and plug in, much easier than lugging that heavy battery from under my storage compartment. 

The small $30 cranking battery was more than enough power to start my motor, so that's a plus. Waiting on the stick steering to come in the mail, should be here early next week max. I will then decided whether i want to install now or next season.


----------



## Loggerhead Mike

nice rig it turned out great


----------



## ober51

Loggerhead Mike said:


> nice rig it turned out great



Thanks, man. Still more to do but it fishes great as is.


----------



## dyeguy1212

Ober, will you pose up some pics of your front storage when you get a chance? Did are they hinged or just sitting in there? did you just leave a lip around the inside edges with the framing to support it?


----------



## ober51

dyeguy1212 said:


> Ober, will you pose up some pics of your front storage when you get a chance? Did are they hinged or just sitting in there? did you just leave a lip around the inside edges with the framing to support it?



I will post pics later (everything is tarped and waiting for tomorrow morning to head out; plus the front storage is screwed in with the base) in a bit but to answer your questions:

1. They are not hinged, but very snug. I am going to hinge them soon, I just received my piano hinges today from Aircraft spruce (6' of aluminum hinges for $11 before shipping, I think 15 to my door in NJ from Ga).

2. When I constructed the framing and the deck I wound up not leaving enough show (the part that you are referring to). I had to add another 2x2 or so to make sure there was enough support for when I walked on the hatches. It cut down on the size of the hatches, but I have more than enough storage and the openings are more than adequate. I can fit my battery, 3 life jackets, tackle box, more tackle, my seat and post, and small starting battery in there. I have even more room. I was worried when I added that piece but my worry was unfounded it turns out. The whole thing is extremely stable. I can jump up and down on it. I love just sitting up there and pitching into the shallows with the foot controlled motor, makes fishing MUCH more enjoyable. Hope this helps. I will show pics later when I have everything out tomorrow.


----------



## ober51

Does anyone know if this circuit breaker will work for my trolling motor?

https://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300329622470&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Is this ok - I want to save some money, the costs are adding up! 

Also, I know a lot of you know how to wire things already, but I have no clue. I want to add the nav lights, a bilge and maybe some leds (later on, not right now) to a switch panel, 6 gang. It has fuses already in the panel. Attached is the picture of the panel I have.

Is this correct:

Run a positive wire to the switch panel from the battery. 
Run a negative wire to the switch panel from the battery.
Run a positive wire from each item I am wiring to the switch panel's positive terminal.
Run a a negative wire from each item I am wiring to the negative terminal battery, this acts as a ground.

Here is my terrible sketch of what I think to do, lol, if this helps anyone understand what I am doing. I really need some help, I would rather not burn my boat down.

I also realized that I will have to be able to put the nav lights on together as well as put the stern light on alone if I am anchored and the law/conditions call for it. So how do I go about doing that? That seems like it may be out of my realm, lol. 

Do I need additional protection other than the fuses that are in the panel?

Thanks a lot guys, hoping you can help!

Please, if you could, be very basic in your answers, I honestly don't know ANYTHING.


----------



## fishinchef

Try this link https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=9070

Also you might consider getting a negative buss block to run all of your negative leads to so that you only have one wire connecting to the battery.


----------



## Zum

I've been using a breaker like that(50amp)for 2 years now,without one problem.
Is that your switch panel?
If it is there is one switch for your running lights...both bow and stern.
and one for the anchor....just your stern,so your good to go
There's also a double throw switch,where you put a jumper across but you don't need that if that's your panel.


The second picture is the switch I use,the positive connects to the middle.
Don't let that second picture confuse you,I only had one wire coming from the anchor light going to the switch and just put a jumper wire to the other side of the switch.


----------



## ober51

Zum said:


> I've been using a breaker like that(50amp)for 2 years now,without one problem.
> Is that your switch panel?
> If it is there is one switch for your running lights...both bow and stern.
> and one for the anchor....just your stern,so your good to go
> There's also a double throw switch,where you put a jumper across but you don't need that if that's your panel.View attachment 2
> View attachment 1
> 
> The second picture is the switch I use,the positive connects to the middle.
> Don't let that second picture confuse you,I only had one wire coming from the anchor light going to the switch and just put a jumper wire to the other side of the switch.



Thanks, Fishingchef, I will look at that and read the link you sent, really appreciate it. 

Thanks for this Zum. That is my switch panel (I have silver), so that's good to know.

Forgive my ignorance, but what is the little thing in the middle of the pictures? The horizontal H's? I honestly don't know - I actually need to know how to wire in the most simple of terms. Is any of what I asked earlier correct, aka my crappy picture?


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## ober51

Honestly, I might just buy a fuse block and be done with it. It sounds like that might be the way to go. It would keep things neat and likely simple. Maybe the guys down at WestMarine can help me with questions, too.


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## Zum

That's the switch...if you can picture those straight lines coming down and touching the lines(points),thats what lights will come on.
The hand drawn picture...are the points on a switch.
Sorry if I confused you,,,I think your on the right track.


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## fishinchef

The "horizontal H's" represent your switch or the break in the circuit. All the switch does is break the circuit of the item.

---beat me to it zum

Ober using a fuse block and switch panel will do the same thing as the prefab switch panel.


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## ober51

Zum said:


> That's the switch...if you can picture those straight lines coming down and touching the lines(points),thats what lights will come on.
> The hand drawn picture...are the points on a switch.
> Sorry if I confused you,,,I think your on the right track.



Ok, hmm. Ok I am going to tackle this at some point this week and see what I can do. 

Do I need another deep cycle battery? I have a deep cycle for my trolling motor, and a small cranking battery for my e-start outboard, but will I need another for the nav lights and accessories?

Also, how hard is it to wire up a 12v plug? I want to use it for my trolling motor, but it didnt come with directions or any wires connected to it.


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## fishinchef

How many accessories and how often are you going to be using those accessories? If you only running your lights and a bilge and those are only going to be on for a short time you should be ok with your TM battery. If your going to have several accessories (radio, depth finder, lights, bilge, 12v cig adpt., etc...) then I would get a second battery for your accessories. Post a picture of the plug that you are talking about. The TM plug that I picked up had wires and directions not sure what kind you got.


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## ober51

fishinchef said:


> How many accessories and how often are you going to be using those accessories? If you only running your lights and a bilge and those are only going to be on for a short time you should be ok with your TM battery. If your going to have several accessories (radio, depth finder, lights, bilge, 12v cig adpt., etc...) then I would get a second battery for your accessories. Post a picture of the plug that you are talking about. The TM plug that I picked up had wires and directions not sure what kind you got.



I am thinking that I should get a second battery. For now I am only going to run my lights every so often, and my bilge if absolutely necessary. I would also like a 12v plug for my trolling motor. At some point it would be nice to have a radio, FF, interior lights, etc. I may just return my cranking battery and then get a deep cycle instead. Difference in price is like 60 bucks but it would allow me to crank and to eventually run everything I want.

Here is a picture of the plug I bought off eBay. It has no directions or wires. I will take some pictures of the plug later. I am thinking I might have to open up the plug part to wire up the wires.


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## ober51

Tried taking the plug apart, a screw comes out but nothing. Also, the silver tip unscrews and a fuse pops out but that's it. No idea how I am supposed to wire this freaking thing.

It definitely has no wires like this one:


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## ober51

I was able to get my running light working, which is a good thing. I just think that all this electrical stuff is over my head. I am highly considering getting it all done. My brother's boss is a contractor and does electrical work and said he would do the whole boat for $200, anything I wanted done. 

I figured: Navigation lights, Blue Water LEDs, radio, bilge, 12v plugs, fish finder. 

My funds are not high so I have to decide if I want to omit certain things and then if I do, will it be worth it?

Just not sure if I can do this alone.


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## Zum

I think you should give it a try yourself.
$200 seems alittle high to me,is he suppling the wire?
Take one thing at a time,ask here,google it....it's electrical but DC,I think your getting overwhelmed thinking of all the things together...

If it eases your mind to have it done right and for it to be done....thats your call.


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## ober51

Zum said:


> I think you should give it a try yourself.
> $200 seems alittle high to me,is he suppling the wire?
> Take one thing at a time,ask here,google it....it's electrical but DC,I think your getting overwhelmed thinking of all the things together...
> 
> If it eases your mind to have it done right and for it to be done....thats your call.



Yeah, been thinking about it - I am going to do it myself. I have all I need I think. I just need a buss bar, a couple breakers, and I should be fine. I saw how I could do it, so I wont come this far and not do it myself.

Question: when I put in a buss bar, do I have to put an inline breaker on the positive connection from the bar to the battery? I know I have to put a breaker on the positive side (close to the battery) on the connection from the 6 gang switch to the battery.

Should I put in one of those big battery selector switches that goes from 1 to 2 to 1 and 2?


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## ober51

The stick steering came today - pretty pumped. It is brand new, not even a scratch. I fabricated a box to place my Tohatsu controls, it's not that pretty, but it is functional and will serve a bunch of purposes. It will house the controls, it will be a place I can put my valuables, as I plan on piano hinging it, and putting a lock on it. I will also put a couple cup holders in there or leave it as a solid top to I can use it as a sort of work station and tied my lures, work on tackle, etc. Tomorrow I will fab up a small box for the stick steer, and connect everything up. I am shooting for a really early test run Thursday as I have to be in NYC by 12. Will post some pics later, when I sync up my phone.

Added some pics. Like I said, not pretty, but works for what I need.


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## ober51

Blue water leds came today, as did the fish finder. So the next project is starting the electrical, just don't know when I am going to do it. I have minimal summer left, I think the boat is going to be used as is for now, and I am pretty happy with where that is. 

Here is a picture of the stick steer box I made yesterday. I am going to run it a bunch, then close it in if I need to. Might just paint the wood gray instead. Looks ok, works well as of now.


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## pescatore

Great job =D> 
How did u attached the trolling motor bracket to the boat?


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## ober51

pescatore said:


> Great job =D>
> How did u attached the trolling motor bracket to the boat?



Thanks, man. Still have all the wiring and accessories to do, and the back of the boat framing and whatnot. 

If you look on page 16 of this thread, third picture down, there is a small simpson strong tie I put on the outside of the bracket. I covered it in carpet to kind of make it blend in so it wasn't so obvious.

I also used those strong ties under the bracket, by the base, facing inward toward the bow (to hide them a bit. You just can't see if on the bracket pics I posted. I attached with ss screws, and had gasket material in between the hull and the strong tie. Hope this helps.


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## pescatore

thanks  
I saw the strong tie in the front but i couldn't see what did u do for the rest of the braket :wink: 
I am still undecided between a solution like yours and building a little alluminum bracket...


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## ober51

pescatore said:


> thanks
> I saw the strong tie in the front but i couldn't see what did u do for the rest of the braket :wink:
> I am still undecided between a solution like yours and building a little alluminum bracket...



I had the wood and have no experience with aluminum, so the choice was easy for me. If I had those, however, I would think aluminum is the way to go.


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## ober51

Well today was VERY productive. I don't know why I thought I needed someone to install my electrical. Once I broke it down (with the help here and esp fishinchef) into simple terms, I was able to install easily. It took a lot of time, but that was to be expected. I wired up the new fishfinder (haven't installed transducer on the hull permanently), bilge pump (yet to get hose for it), two Bluewater led strips, running light, and anchor light (not yet mounted because back deck is yet to be built). I forgot to do the 12v accessory plug, but I will go back and do that later. I forgot to take some pics (cant find camera) but will take a bunch when I go out either tomorrow or Monday to fish.

I am strapped for time, but later I will post how I connected everything, so when you search, you can find how I did it. Pretty excited that now the boat is a turn key boat that I can fish at night, dusk, and dawn. This boat has come a long way!


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## fishinchef

Sounds good. Lets see those pictues!


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## ober51

fishinchef said:


> Sounds good. Lets see those pictues!



I will take some tomorrow - the boat is snug like a bug in a rug right now. 

Really liking the way this is turning out. I love that I can just get in, turn a key, and be off and have a nice, functional boat.


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## ober51

Awful day today. I said I would provide pictures of the stick steering, motor, etc. but it just wasn't in the cards today. Let's start with gearing up and driving to the ramp. All is fine, push off, go to turn the k...forgot the key at home. I live 20 minutes from where we are. I push us back to shore, force my gf to stay with the boat, unhitch the trailer to make better time, race home, and grab the key. Race back to the parking lot (at this time I notice the car is lunging and not responding well), connect the trailer, start to run down to the ramp, and realized I forgot the gas. GAS! How does one forget the gas?! Well, I run back to the car in disgust, trailer in tow and head to the ramp. GF is incredulous, "Are you kidding?" Many words I can't repeat here  Put the boat on the trailer with difficulty, and head off to the parking lot. Ratchet tie the boat down, pull out the parking lot, start to go home. GF is obviously very uspet, she took off the day to be with me as she hasn't had ONE DAY free for the summer, looking forward to crusing and lounging. 

I pull out of the parking lot and I hear crack, then scraping. Come to a slow stop, and walk around the car to see the trailer coupler under the Suburban. I forgot to lock the coupler!! I hoist the boat back on, and lock it on, and off we go. I was given a lecture (for good reason) on the way home. 

On the way home the car wasn't acting right, the transmission seems to be acting strange. Now I can't even go out on the boat as that's my only tow vehicle. The Suburban has 120k miles, and it's my father's car, so he is thinking of taking advantage of the cash for clunkers. That's great I say, only to find out it may be a regular old car he's buying and not another SUV. 

Welp, this was the worst day of the summer bar none. I am thankful no one was hurt, and that none of the problems are not permanent or anything like that. But to think that all the work I've done the past 3.5 months was for naught because of the car, well, that's driving me mad. Sorry to vent, but I feel like I had to.  

Hopefully pictures soon.


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## dyeguy1212

Sorry to hear that... hopefully you'll get the car situation back in order and you'll be good to go. Heck, my 2001 Jimmy has 285,000 and some change, and its still going strong. I tow my 1648 with a 40 horse without hesitation...

Don't blame yourself for all the misfortunes, sounds like one of those days where one mistake turns into a chain reaction. Tends to happen when you really, really want to hurry up and get on the water.


Better luck next time around...


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## Zum

I'll blame it on the heat.
Had to google this one"incredulous".
Hopefully you put the boat up and spent the rest of the day wisely


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## ober51

Thanks guys, I am sure a lot of you have had your share of days.

Yeah, I could have gone back for the gas, but another 40 minutes with my better half steaming, I passed. We spent the rest of the day just hanging out and will revisit the prospects of going out on the boat together soon as the truck is fixed. I personally think it's a great time to upgrade to a better and more fuel efficient SUV. This cash for clunkers thing could net my dad a really good amount of money for this truck that has seen it's better days.


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## ober51

Well, I think the car is fine. I am afraid to admit that I think I had the 4 wheel drive on  I used it to get off the ramp and then forgot to turn it off! I hope that's what it was, dad's none to happy about driving 60mph with it on for 20 min. #-o


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## Zum

Ah,just tell him thatyou were greasing the axles for him


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## ober51

Zum said:


> Ah,just tell him thatyou were greasing the axles for him



Haha. Nah, he calmed down we're all good. 

Bit of progress today - was able to get the back bench framed and covered. I decided against decking the back portion for a couple reasons. One, I want to keep the space open to make sure there are no explosions, and two, Ii've had it with the building/framing this year, lol. I would rather just do the bench, put in the seat base, and call it a day. I also fabbed up a small spot for my anchor light on the back of the bench. It will do for this year, then next I will maybe deck the back,

I was hoping to go out tonight to get a run at dusk - but my gf isn't getting in from the city til late, and I wanted to do something nice to make up for that debacle yesterday, lol. So, next nice day I will get some pics (hopefully tomorrow) and a report. The camera is lost in my room, and my phone literally got lost in Hoboken, NJ on Sat night at 3am in McDonald's. Thus, the pictures are lacking as of now.


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## ober51

Finally got on - just came to report that there is nothing to report. I didnt realize how busy I would be until mid-December. I have 3 classes, a comprehensive exam for my licensure, and clinical internship. My apologies for being so scarce, but I look at my boat in the driveway and it will just have to wait until spring  Hope everyone is well, and enjoy all your great mods!


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## baptistpreach

Just a quick check to see if you've made any progress?

Hope everything is well, and take care!


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## JBoze

Read this entire thing. Still got the boat?


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## ober51

baptistpreach and Jboze, thanks for checking in.

I have been super busy with school and my internship, applying for jobs, etc. So unfortunately, I have not done anything to the boat since the last time out. The only thing I do is look at it under tarps and take off ice accumulation and water, so it won't ruin all my hard work. I plug in the on board batter charger every once in a while (gotta do that soon) and keep the batteries fresh.

I do have to get a new trailer, despite all the work I have put into the old one. The one I have is fine to support the boat, but the tongue is not long enough. How do I know? Because a few months back my dad heard some squeaking and brought it to the shop. The guy asked if he had let the car sit. Nope. He then asked if he had backed into water #-o . Well, I went to far down the ramp because the trailer was short, and must have gotten the rear too far down! Cost my dad about 1500 for the fixes he needed, ugh. Long story short, my dad said no more trailering until I get a bigger trailer.

I will have to figure something out, because I am thinking I will have to bring the boat to the lake, back it off, go home and ditch the first trailer, hitch the other bigger trailer, and come pick the boat up. I don't see how I can get the boat off the trailer without water seeing at it's pretty heavy. Then again, I could cinder blocks like they do, right? We'll see, I'm a few months away.

As of now I am looking for my first job in my second career. Interviewing and resumes and whatnot. So I'm still busy, but I definitely miss working on the boat. Thanks again for checking in.


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## Henry Hefner

How much longer does it need to be? Harbor Freight sells a 12" hitch extender. These guys just lengthened the trailer tongue: 
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=8318
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=10250


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## ober51

Henry Hefner said:


> How much longer does it need to be? Harbor Freight sells a 12" hitch extender. These guys just lengthened the trailer tongue:
> https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=8318
> https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=10250



Thanks, when the weather is nicer I may try and add the 12" tongue extender. I may also price out what a welder would charge to extend it out another 3-4 feet, which is probably what I need. I can't risk putting the tires in the water at all.


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## Froggy

A most interesting read, this thread to me at work today.....fantastic work man! well lets see if my employees are working :wink:


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## ober51

Froggy said:


> A most interesting read, this thread to me at work today.....fantastic work man! well lets see if my employees are working :wink:



Thanks, Froggy. I need to post some completely finished pictures when the snow thaws out.


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## baptistpreach

A couple suggestions.

1. You can move the boat with a few guys, and as long as you can get the back of the boat in the water (which you undoubtedly can) they can push it off

2. Bring 2 trucks with both trailers. Sure beats leaving your boat  .

Anyhow, I know mine is heavy too, but its not too heavy to move, its still a jon boat!


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## ober51

Will be installing the bilge pump today, it's all wired but has to be fitted through the hull to make it permanent. Also will be selling this trailer and buying a new bigger trailer more suited for this boat. 

Also, trying to figure out how to install a console, any advice here or in this thread: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=12968 would be appreciated.


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## ober51

Snapped a couple pics. Will need to take better ones tomorrow. 

Also got the piano hinges installed on the main hatches, though there are no pictures of those right now.


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## alanbird_87

Very very nice boat!!! I also have a 1972 Monark 15ft V-hull. Check it out, just got it so hope to start modding. Its on pg 13 of the modifications section.


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## ober51

alanbird_87 said:


> Very very nice boat!!! I also have a 1972 Monark 15ft V-hull. Check it out, just got it so hope to start modding. Its on pg 13 of the modifications section.



Thanks and I just saw your boat, thats a tank!


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## ober51

Just starting to touch up paint on the boat - it makes a huge difference. I will also have to paint the interior more than I thought, not a big deal, just will take some time over the next few weekends.


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## ober51

Anyone have pictures of their trolling motor plug set up? Rather than going under the front casting deck to connect and disconnect the leads I bought a plug to wire up. I know how to wire up the plug, but where do you have your plug? I am thinking above my right hatch?


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## Henry Hefner

ober51 said:


> Anyone have pictures of their trolling motor plug set up? Rather than going under the front casting deck to connect and disconnect the leads I bought a plug to wire up. I know how to wire up the plug, but where do you have your plug? I am thinking above my right hatch?



I wanted mine close to the motor, so I put it next to my glove box:


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## ober51

Thanks, Hef. Looks good. I am trying to see where I can put the thing - do you have an inline fuse?

I know it calls for one but I've never used one.


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## Henry Hefner

ober51 said:


> Thanks, Hef. Looks good. I am trying to see where I can put the thing - do you have an inline fuse?
> 
> I know it calls for one but I've never used one.



Yes, all my wiring is fused. Fuses are very important. Have you ever seen someone hook up jumper cables wrong? Or accidentally arc between battery poles? These batteries store a huge amount of power. If a short occurred (such as a sharp object cutting through your wires) your unfused wiring could suddenly become hot enough to melt off all insulation and catch any flammables on fire. Now, if these wires are already fused next to the battery, then you do not need to fuse it again close to the motor.


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## ober51

Henry Hefner said:


> ober51 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, Hef. Looks good. I am trying to see where I can put the thing - do you have an inline fuse?
> 
> I know it calls for one but I've never used one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, all my wiring is fused. Fuses are very important. Have you ever seen someone hook up jumper cables wrong? Or accidentally arc between battery poles? These batteries store a huge amount of power. If a short occurred (such as a sharp object cutting through your wires) your unfused wiring could suddenly become hot enough to melt off all insulation and catch any flammables on fire. Now, if these wires are already fused next to the battery, then you do not need to fuse it again close to the motor.
Click to expand...


Sounds good - going to have to pick up a 40 amp. 

Also just sold my trailer that was too short for the boat. So I am looking for one that fits a 16'er. Proving to be harder and more expensive than I thought, unless I drive 2 hours.


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## kriegersa

Hey man i just got finished reading all 21 pages its now...1:15 am and i got a 8am class... :shock: :shock: ](*,) lol, but just wanted to let you know that I will probably be coping you on your design. approx. how much did it cost you? and how long did it take you to fix up the whole thing?


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## ober51

kriegersa said:


> Hey man i just got finished reading all 21 pages its now...1:15 am and i got a 8am class... :shock: :shock: ](*,) lol, but just wanted to let you know that I will probably be coping you on your design. approx. how much did it cost you? and how long did it take you to fix up the whole thing?



Ha - it's addicting, that's for sure.

I don't have much time now before work, so I will think about it and get back to you later. Short answer, not that much for materials. Long answer, I am still not done :lol:


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## Troutman3000

ober51 said:


> Just went over to Advanced Auto and bought some Tal-Strip, heard good things about it. I want to strip the bottom portion of the hull to apply steel flex to a completely bare surface. As for the rest of the hull, elbow grease should do it - just going to scuff it up well, prime and paint.




Wire wheel is the best for steel flex, it really adheres well to the bare really roughed up alluminum.


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## ober51

Troutman3000 said:


> ober51 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just went over to Advanced Auto and bought some Tal-Strip, heard good things about it. I want to strip the bottom portion of the hull to apply steel flex to a completely bare surface. As for the rest of the hull, elbow grease should do it - just going to scuff it up well, prime and paint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wire wheel is the best for steel flex, it really adheres well to the bare really roughed up alluminum.
Click to expand...


Yeah this is what I had done in the past and it's holding up well.

I hope I never have to take off that Steel Flex, ha. I'd rather just sand and re-apply, stuff is tough.


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## ober51

I would have to imagine it depends on what you factor in for the cost.

The strong ties, wood, screws, gasket material, carpet, bilge, hoses, 5200, paint, steel flex, materials for paint, etc really didn't cost me more than $400-500? I wish I kept receipts, but I didn't. Now, if you add in 25 hp ($250 off eBay), bow trolling motor (Brand new $150 craigslist), trailer ($400, coming soon), I would guess that all in I have 1300-1500 in cost? The boat itself was $200, I also got with that a 15hp Johnny that was seized that I made about 50 bucks off of. The costs add up, but craigslist is your friend, ebay you can occasionally get good deals (that motor runs like a top and was very cheap).


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## ober51

After Perchin graciously picked up a console and shipped it my way, I have started to take off the dissimilar metals and hardware and the stickers. I will JB weld where needed, use some self etching primer, and paint. I haven't taken off those vintage switches yet, I might test them, but more likely will remove and insert my own switch panel (which means the wiring I did last summer will have to be redone, lol, oh well at least I know what I am doing this time around.) I will have to fab the bottom half of the console since it doesn't have a base, but I have the ply and carpet already.

I have the metal and hardware off, stickers removed, and it is awaiting a sanding and primer. I did sand a bit of the pitted area, seems like it will clean it up fine. Then I will JB weld that area, should turn out well for what I need. BTW, that heat gun for $9.99 from Harbor Frieght is a no brainer, even if it only lasts me a year, it was more than worth it.


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## ober51

Continued a little work on the console, taking out the wood backing, sanding off the rough edges of the holes, drilling out the rivets, etc. I took care to keep the wood in one piece, leaving a perfect template and an easy replacement in the near future. I will trace, cut, seal and use stainless hardware to bolt back underneath. I started to sand before I removed the glue residue, which was stupid. I will have to see if I can use some goo-gone or whatever. Maybe some wd40?

Here are just a few pics.

Also, does anyone want the old tracker switches? Dunno if they work at all, so I won't charge anything but shipping. Might be good for someone who is looking to totally restore a tracker with original hardware?


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## perchin

Right on man........ Glad to see it go to good use :wink:


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## ober51

perchin said:


> Right on man........ Glad to see it go to good use :wink:



Definitely, thanks to you.

I used the old wood to make a new template, but my small Black and Decker Handisaw battery died on my before I could finish the hole for the steering. And I can't find the battery charger. Of course, I wouldn't have had to use that dinky saw if my brother didn't take the good jig saw to college to make a bar for this fraternity, ha....and he took the oribital sander. So I am waiting on him to finish up school and bring that stuff home. I will then get some SS hardware (bolts, nuts, washers, etc.), seal the wood, and finish it off. Then I can build the bottom, slow but steady wins the race. I will continue to to use the stick steer until I get the entire thing installed, even the teleflex steering and whatnot, since I don't want to miss any fishing this season like I did in the last one.

ETA: Goo Gone works well for glue removal, but WD40 worked better in my opinion.


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## ober51

I filled in the top holes and a couple holes on the front with JB Weld, sanded down, and primed with self etching primer. I had never sanded JB Weld, and I was really impressed. It was very easy to do after it cured - you can't even tell there were holes. This picture was the first coat of primer, I have since added a second and it looks even better. I left some holes on the front, since I will likely place a switch panel there anyway. Four of the holes are for the wood backing, as well; the top holes will be reused for my fish finder at some point, so there was no need to close those off. The one round hole will house a accessory plug. 

Slowly but surely it is coming along. Looks a lot better already, I think.


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## perchin

Looking good man... a little elbow grease goes a long ways when it comes to mod's on tin.


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## perchin

Any updates?
You've probably been out fishing too much to be posting :LOL2:


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## ober51

perchin said:


> Any updates?
> You've probably been out fishing too much to be posting :LOL2:



Sadly, no updates. I caught the golfing bug and went like crazy this summer. I now am faced with my new job very soon, so it will wait again. Hope I didn't disappoint


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## ober51

Decided to sell the rig, despite my love for it and how well it runs. Stuck with the stick steer, as well.

Time to move on up to a bigger boat. Please see the want ad section.

Thanks for everyone's help!


----------

