# 2012 Lowe A1667 - SOLD



## kensho1976 (Sep 17, 2012)

Hello all! I've been trolling the boards for a while, trying to learn how to do things without screwing anything up too bad. My father and I just purchased a bare bones 2012 Lowe A1667 from a local dealer and wanted to mod it for more storage and fishing ease. Unfortunately, the A1667 is labeled as a utility boat, and has three bench seats and a split bench in the stern. This doesn't allow for very good movement around the boat, especially for young children.

We threw in a side console, some slide rails for our folding seats, and a 2006 40 HP Mercury EFI motor.

Now that I'm getting a little more comfortable with the boat and have been out in the bay a few times, I have a better understanding of what needs to go where. I
've already cut out a small front casting platform out of 3/4" ply that will extend from the front bench to the bow. I just don't know how to secure it without putting holes all over the boat. I originally wanted to make it a temporary thing, in case I wasn't satisfied with the layout. After talking it over with my father, he suggested Liquid Nails/Gorilla Glue, and some SS screws into the bench seat. I'd still think it'd be wise to put something at the very front of the boat, just in case. 

To add, I'm also thinking of cutting into the front and middle benches and putting some storage in. I'd replace the flotation foam that would be removed by adding a floor and putting the pool noodles or pourable foam under that. There's just so little storage on the boat, that it's really begging to be modified.

The other thing I'd like to do is cut into the rear half benches for the batteries or gas tank, and then cover that (with ventilation) with a back casting deck. The area between the back split bench and the first bench would hold coolers for catches, bait, and food.

I had a couple of questions before I put too much work into it, and damage the boat before it even runs out of warranty.

1) The foam inside the seats and benches is only in the case the boat floods, correct? It has absolutely nothing to do with the displacement or flotation of the boat when dry? Can I safely remove the foam as long as a put in more foam elsewhere? 

2) The boat leans to the stern and starboard when sitting in the water empty. The engine must be a good 300 pounds, and the controls and cabling are on the starboard side. I'm concerned about adding any more weight to the back, and I'm actually thinking of moving the gas and maybe the batteries to the front. We've already wired everything, so moving the batteries are going to be a pain. 

3) How can I secure that front casting platform? Do I need to anchor it at the front, or will the 3/4 ply stand up to 280 lbs only being secure through the bench?

Any suggestions/comments/criticisms would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Brian


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## kensho1976 (Sep 17, 2012)

Here are a few pics of the front casting deck. I haven't painted it or secured it yet, but I cut out a 10"x15" hatch, added a sunken piano hinge and some 1x2s on the bottom to hopefully support the weight of someone standing on it.


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## cals boat (Sep 20, 2012)

Hello Brian

I have the same boat with same storage issues, and want to do the same as u have stated from decking, moving batteries, and even gas tank to front, and wanting to remove the 2 center benches but was informed that at a higher speed, with ur 40 that u have sides could be unstable unless u give them support. 

I am looking forward to see just what u do with ur mods, i am excited to start mine but had an accident a while back, so i am on hold for a while, like u i have a motor upgrade 30 hp, So many ideas and choices, good luck and have fun.


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## snips (Sep 23, 2012)

just finished my deck this weekend.It is 2 layers of 3/4 PLY wrapped in Nautolex.I also was not looking to drill a bunch of holes in the bench top.I got a piece if angle aluminum and screwed that to the front edge of the bench like an upside down L,and ran screws up through that into the underside of the deck.Looks clean,and is solid.


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## kensho1976 (Sep 29, 2012)

Did you secure the plywood at the bow, or just at the bench seat? I imagine that much plywood is certainly sturdy enough. I just have a single 3/4" sheet. I ended up riveting two small aluminum L-brackets to the bow of the boat, about 5 inches from the front seam. I found the task of marking, drilling, and riveting to be very easy.

Last night I secured my fire extinguisher and holder under the side console. I may add some rubber backing between the holder and the extinguisher since there is a little play there, and I don't want the thing bouncing around while I'm en route.

I also ended up cutting another 13" x 30" hole near the front of the plywood. My plan is to cut into the front bench seat and dig out the foam. I'll then put together either a wooden or aluminum storage box and attach it to the underside of the decking. A lid will cover it all. The lip of the deck will have an aluminum angle to cover up any mistakes.

We ended up having the dealer install a bimini top to protect us from the sun. The original plan when the bimini top was stowed was to have it fold down very near the transom. Instead, the bimini top was placed a little farther forward since we ended up seating the kids in front of us. Now, it folds down in between the rear split bench and the 1st rear bench. I was going to deck that entire area and put lids in for the coolers and a live well, but the bimini top will end up having to be lifted every time we need access. So I'm rethinking that idea. When we're fishing, the bimini top will likely not be raised.

I also need to install a 12V outlet for the spotlight. 

I'll post pictures as I go.


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## Bailey Boat (Sep 30, 2012)

Kensho, look into a couple of sliding rails and the associated hardware to get the top farther back in the boat where you want it.

Similar to this... https://www.cabelas.com/product/Boating/Boat-Covers/Bimini-Tops%7C/pc/104794380/c/104703480/sc/104216580/Bimini-Top-Hardware-Slide-Track/751575.uts?destination=%2Fcatalog%2Fbrowse%2Fboating-boat-covers-bimini-tops%2F_%2FN-1100622%3FWT.srch%3D1%26WT.tsrc%3DPPC%26WT.mc_id%3Dbing%7Cboa_Boat%2BCovers_Bimini%2BTops%7CUSA%26WT.z_mc_id1%3DbU9vhEztX%26rid%3D20%26pcrid%3D354957650%26sadid%3D44000000002844158&WTz_l=PPC%3Bcat104216580


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## kensho1976 (Oct 6, 2012)

I started priming the wood today for painting. It's been slow going because of work and all the rain. I thought Florida was supposed to be the Sunshine State?

I went ahead and cut a 30" x 15" rectangular hole in the front seat and took out all the foam. I managed to fit 2 throwable flotation devices and four of the nice life jackets inside. I'm not sure I'll use it for that, but I was just seeing how much I could fit. I was originally going to put together a wooden box and attach it to the fishing deck, but decided to just gut the whole bench out and put a piece of aluminum with holes for drainage at the bottom instead. It gives a lot more room in there with little added weight.

I'm going to put a lid on the large compartment, I just haven't had a chance to get out the table saw yet. I really want to get the front done before I move on to the back.


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## kensho1976 (Oct 6, 2012)

Thanks Bailey Boat, I'm certainly going to check those out. I thought about it a bit and when we put the top up, it's kind of in the middle, so when fishing we have the front and the back to fish from. If I did move it back, you could only drop fish off the back.

I like the thought of being able to move it around though, as necessary for the activity.


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## Scott1298 (Oct 7, 2012)

kensho1976 said:


> 3) How can I secure that front casting platform? Do I need to anchor it at the front, or will the 3/4 ply stand up to 280 lbs only being secure through the bench?
> 
> Any suggestions/comments/criticisms would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> ...



If you are trying to hold the bench down without drilllng a bunch of holes, I came up with a solution you might be able to use if you cut a block to support the front of your platform. I thought you could install this system through the first hole you cut. Ignore the dry wood, I started with this as a prototype and decided to use it for a while it turned out so good. I used a couple fence staples, s hooks and turn buckles and this thing is rock solid in place! I just used industrial strength velcro on all my seats in case I need to make a change, and nothing has ever lifted even at highway speed.


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## kensho1976 (Oct 10, 2012)

Scott - That's genius. I should've checked the boards before today. I figured that I'd already cut into the front bench seat, so a few more holes won't matter. I attached two three-pole rod holders to the front with bolts through the aluminum. They shouldn't be coming off any time soon.

I still don't really know what to do with the front. I need a place for live bait, but not so much live catches. I figure we'll throw whatever we catch on ice.

I went ahead and put two coats of primer and two coats of paint with grip. I then got some matched spray paint from the Lowe's dealer and went over the top again, since I didn't like the original color I painted it. I'm sure the spray paint is going to come off, but it looks good for the first attempt.

I'm looking forward to just getting this project done. I'm spending too much time in the garage, and not enough on the water!


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## Scott1298 (Oct 10, 2012)

Looking good =D> I know what you mean, it seems each hole is easier to make than the last. I've been lucky I didn't cut/drill a couple times, as I've often made changes after the first design/build. I think I'm going to leave the sides of my front bench for speakers... I swear a drug habit would have been cheaper #-o


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## fool4fish1226 (Oct 11, 2012)

nice work the boat looks great :beer:


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## kensho1976 (Oct 12, 2012)

Thanks Fool4Fish.

I spent a good deal of time at the hardware store just looking at the different ways to attach the top. In the end, I went with 3/4" large diameter stainless steel screws. The S-hook and turn buckle idea was great, but I had an irrational fear of the thing flying off on the highway or hitting my kids in the face when we hit 30 mph in the boat. So, I predrilled holes in the aluminum 3 inches away from the opening on the sides, and two inches apart. I then placed the deck on and screwed by hand from the underside. In the bow I attached two aluminum L-brackets to the wood crossmember and then to the top. That's 10 stainless steel screws holding it on. I can reach them all if I need to take the top off, but I can still imagine my wife scolding me at the hospital while one of my kids gets their noggin stitched up. Perhaps some more screws are in order... :shock: 

I saw some neat storage ideas when searching the net. Check out the post here. Instead of cutting down into the seat, imagine cutting from the front (or back), adding a compartment, and then using netting to keep everything in. To start, I'll probably just get some ~12" x ~46" cargo netting and attach it to the front of the 2nd and 3rd benches for storage. If I feel I need more storage later on, I can always cut into the front of the bench and use the same posts/buttons for the netting.

For the opening, I managed to measure wrong. It's about 30" long, 12" deep, and 8" high at the highest point (due to the V-hull shape). I really need cooler storage, and I want to move some of the weight up front, so I think I'm going to purchase two Coleman Party Stacker 18 quart coolers. They should fit nicely side by side in the opening. I'll have to make a floor for them so they sit level on the bottom, and they'll poke up about a good 8 inches above the deck. But, they'll be removable, and I can always add a lid later if I so choose. I was thinking about making a lid that just sits on with some cleats underneath so that it's removable. That should give me flexibility for now. Since this is my first boat modding project, and I tend to change my mind often, flexibility is a good thing!


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## kensho1976 (Oct 14, 2012)

Took the boat out today with my wife. 2' chop in the bay. We tried fishing over a reef, but we were just getting tossed around, so we moved inland towards a shallower area protected from the wind. Didn't catch anything but trash fish, but learned the following:

1) With the coolers and the fishing poles, it's difficult to reach the front casting deck or tie off the anchor. 
2) Otherwise, the coolers were great. Though they don't fit perfectly in the 30" x 12" hole in the front, I can fit a throwable cushion behind them, and it all fits snugly. The drinks were super cold and the ice intact after about 5 hours on the water.
3) I took a battery powered aerator, so I'll be drilling a hole through the top for the hose to go through. The hose was getting blocked by the weight of the cooler lid.
4) The cargo nets need support along the top. Having buttons on either side just isn't enough. I've attached some zip tie holders and will be using black zip ties in order to keep the net from drooping too much. I think a smaller net with multiple attachment points would have been a better idea.
5) The spray paint on the front casting deck didn't hold up, as I expected. Next time, I'll just buy the right color paint in the first place.
6) The bimini top saved us from frying, though it also limited our casting. I still think I'd rather avoid being burnt to a crisp than catching a fish. My wife even caught a nap under it while I was fishing some docks.
7) I didn't have a difficult time navigating back by sight, but my wife wanted to steer and had no idea where to go. I think if I had marked the docks we launched from on the GPS/Chart plotter, she could have easily made it back. 
8) I think my dream of fishing two adults and two kids off this boat is gone. There's just no room for everyone, their gear, and enough casting space to make everyone happy.
9) I liked having everything in the boat when we left the house. When we got to the dock, we just backed it in and took off. Normally we're scrambling at a busy dock (whether at the dock or at the staging area) to get everything transferred.
10) The Lowe seat tracks are awesome. Our seats come completely off, can be moved around, and put anywhere the track is located on the two benches. This allows a wide array of seating options. The swivels for the seats also make things easier.


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## kensho1976 (Feb 10, 2013)

I finally got around to doing some more work on the boat. I ended up changing it around a bit. The coolers in the front got in the way, so I created a hatch and remove the coolers. I found two larger coolers that fit perfectly in between the back bench seat and the rear platform. The just kind of sit on their handles, and come out easy for cleaning. 

I riveted some thicker aluminum angle on the back of the rear bench seat, created a 2x2 frame and hatch, and created another hatch over the gas tank and battery. the 2x2 frame and hatch has a channel that the rear lip fits into, and it sits on the aluminum angle, so I don't think I'll need to screw it down. That'll leave it available for removal and replacement when the salt gets to it all. 

I created an aluminum frame out of thinner angle and dropped a piece of ply down in it. The angle and ply rest on the ribs, and the angle is riveted at all four corners to the bench and rear platforms for stability. This will hopefully help keep gear in there dry. Anything we used to leave on the bottom would get soaked as water would eventually make it's way into the boat.

I had to replace the switch panel. The old one corroded quickly from the salt water. The new on is water resistant, and the switches are booted.

I replaced the saggy net with a tighter fitting one. It looks much nicer now.

I've got to paint everything, and finish the sides off, but I'm happy with the result. Now if I could just convince the fish to bite, I'd be a happy angler.


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## kensho1976 (May 31, 2013)

Well, I'm back at it. I've been looking over Badbagger's, Bigwave's, and Country Dave's builds, and I have to admit that mine just wasn't up to par. I don't have the skill set (or the equipment) to build like they do, but my build left a lot to be desired. 

Things I learned over the past year:
[*]The boat is *small*. Sure, it says you can carry five, and maybe you can, but it will be for nothing more than as a ferry service. We couldn't reasonably fish more than 3 at a time.
[*]Two coolers were overkill, especially since I'm not using a live well. 
[*]A standard screw down trolling motor gets in the way when mounted on the bow. I'm looking at moving it and the spare battery to the stern.
[*]There's finally enough room to stand. The back casting deck and front casting deck is enough space for me. 
[*]You can't do it all. You have to decide what you want to do with the boat, and build your design from there. There just isn't enough space to do everything.

Tampa Bay isn't very deep, and I like flats fishing, so my new design is heading that way. I'm going to drop down to one cooler in the front, two batteries in the back. Plastic Tempress (cam lock) or TH hatches will be so much easier than trying to custom build my own. I don't have access to a machine shop or aluminum brake, so making lips for the hatches is out of the question for me.


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## kensho1976 (May 31, 2013)

Fulton Fold-Away Coupler
We moved recently, and the new garage was a full 3' shorter than the old garage. I ended up having to install a Fulton Fold-Away Coupler on the trailer tongue. 

To mark where to cut on the tongue, I moved the boat diagonally in the garage as far as it would go without hitting the car. I brought the garage door down and dropped a plumb line from the braces on the garage door (the part that might hit the trailer tongue) and marked the location on the tongue. I then used a square to mark a straight line across the tongue.

I pulled all of the wires back towards the rear through the frame so they wouldn't get cut. 

Using a metal abrasive wheel for my circular saw, I was able to easily cut the tongue. 

I looked over what it would take to bolt the hinge on, and I opted to have it welded instead. To bolt it on, it would take center punches, many drill bits (you have to start at a small diameter and increase the hole twice), and a lot of time. I had a friend bring his gear over, and he sanded down the hinge and the tongue with an angle grinder. He then welded the hinge on, with three beads on each side. It seems pretty sturdy, but I don't know anything about welding. I then took a wire wheel and sanded out all the mess left from welding and sprayed it with cold galvanizing spray that I got from T.A. Mahoneys.

I could have saved myself a lot of trouble and moved the original cut 10" one way or the other. Unfortunately, I just didn't have the room to move the cut more towards the coupler. The cut ended up being exactly where the diagonal support and winch sit on the frame. My son and I looked over all of our options and tried moving all the parts (hinge, diagonal support, brace, etc) to see if there was a better configuration.

We decided we would buy a winch that fit on top of the diagonal support. I took some pictures and went to T.A. Mahoney's. I spoke to a guy there that said there should be no issue mounting the diagonal support in front of the hinge (towards the coupler). I thought having it there and trying to winch the boat on the trailer would put too much strain on the hinge, but he said the boat is so light and the pull is straight, so it's shouldn't do any harm. Have any of you heard any differently?

Lastly, I pulled all the wires back to the front using a wire snake, and cleaned them up with wire wrap and some zip ties.

I haven't moved the safety chains behind the hinge yet (in case the weld fails). After I do that, this portion of the project should be done.


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## Devil's-Tinner (May 31, 2013)

I think you are doing great work here! love the boat.


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## kensho1976 (Jun 11, 2013)

Thanks Devils-Tinner! I wish I knew back then what I know now. It would've been easier!


I've got a question for those of you that have the seat mounts and pedestals. My goal was to have four seats in the boat when cruising, and be able to take two seats out and use them at the bow and stern for casting seats.

I was going to use a stainless steel 7x7" seat base at the bow and stern, and two more where we normally sit during transit (so four total). The seats would have a stainless steel 3/4" seat mount with a 2 3/4" pin attached to them. When in transit, the seats would be in the lowest position, essentially the seat mount would be in the seat base without the pedestal. When we stop and fish we'd move them to the bow and stern and use the pedestals.

This would allow the boat to function for the occasional family cruise around the bay, as well as allow me to fish two comfortably when the family stays home.

My question is that the seat mounts say they're rated for under 5 MPH. I don't understand why they're rated so low, especially if they're almost flush with the deck (pin going into seat baset, no pedestal). Is the 5 MPH only when on a pedestal or are they really just not that safe?

Is there any other way to do what I'm looking to do? Maybe the plastic quick release seat swivels?


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## kensho1976 (Jun 11, 2013)

Front Deck Support

I started on the front deck support yesterday. My son and I went through a bunch of ideas, and settled on 2x2 lumber, since it's cheap, plentiful, and hopefully strong. My wife has yanked my boat budget, so I couldn't go with aluminum (though if I had the money, I would've).

Parts List:
[*]1 lb box of Grip Rite Stainless Steel Exterior Screws, 2-1/2" x #10. ($15)
[*]Titebond II Wood Glue (already owned)
[*]#10 countersink bit ($5)
[*]Small drill bit (already owned)
[*]Star bit (included with screws)
[*]Seven 2x2 x 8 non-PT lumber ($12)
[*]Corner clamps (already owned)

Total cost was $32 for the front deck bracing.

Notes:
[*]Every hole was predrilled
[*]All corners were glued 
[*]All connections were reinforced with two 2-1/2" SS screws

I decided to make three rectangles, then screw those together. The two outside rectangles were the same size, and the middle rectangle (really a T) was made to but up against the console and sit on the existing brackets at the bow. The wood was as close to straight as I could get it, but still a little warped. After making the three rectangles, I screwed them together in four spots with the 2-1/2" SS screws.

Hopefully tomorrow I can get some paint and coat everything so I can start on the front deck.


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## kensho1976 (Jun 12, 2013)

Anyone know an answer to the seat question above?

Also, I just purchased a 12-gallon gas tank to give me longer range. I have the ability to put it in the bow between the first and second bench, or in the stern, behind the 3rd bench and before the split benches. I had read on another forum that it may be more important to move your batteries up front, since your gas tank will slowly lose weight (as you use gas), and that it should be more towards the center of gravity. Any opinions?


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## riverrat174 (Jun 13, 2013)

I am having the same questions. Logic is telling me that the batteries up front is a good idea, because of all the weight in back. Anything I can do to balance it out would be beneficial. Cant help with the seats. 

On a side note, your doing great work. Keep it up. Looks nice!!


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## Skunked again (Jun 13, 2013)

Answer to seat question: I did what you talked about, putting seat in base while underway. Had no problems. Just make sure it stays below the gunwale. Felt secure to me. My guess for the low speed rating is manufacturers insurance.


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## kensho1976 (Jun 14, 2013)

Thanks for the input guys. I mocked up the seat setup today, and with the additional height of the 2x2 frame and the 3/4" ply, the seat cushion will be almost level with the top of the gunwale. My wife didn't like the idea of the kids sitting there. I've got to come up with another idea now.


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## kensho1976 (Jun 15, 2013)

As I'm planning out where to store my 12 gallon tank, I realize it was a lot easier to lift my 6 gallon tank out of the boat. Fully filled, it was only around 40 pounds. The 12 gallon tank and will be much harder to remove and replace when fueling at the pump. In addition, I was going to place it where it would be difficult to remove at all.

If I really must remove it before refilling, I'm thinking about returning it and just taking two separate 6 gallon tanks.

How many of you remove your portable tanks before you fill them?


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## btalling (Jun 15, 2013)

Nice job so far, Im sourcing out ideas and options for my 13' V-14, like the way you have the rod storage mounted up front.


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## wwcenturion (Jun 15, 2013)

Kensho, I didn't want to purchase four seats for my setup so to save money I just used four mounts and purchased two poles and seat mounts. This way I can quickly pull the seats out of the driving position mounts and move them to the pole mounts when we are ready to fish. I can pull the poles and stow them when not in use. 

I plan to leave my six gallon tank in the boat.

Good luck brother.


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## kensho1976 (Jun 15, 2013)

Thanks. I checked out your boat and it looks really good. I'm working slow on mine because I like seeing what everyone else is doing. This site is great for the beginner boat restorer.


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## kensho1976 (Jun 15, 2013)

Made a little more progress today. I worked on the fuel and battery compartments between the first and second bench seats.

I used some 1" aluminum angle iron and 3/4" ply. I plan on putting flotation under the two battery compartments and screwing D-rings into the wood for tie downs for the batteries and fuel tank after I paint everything. I was going to split the batteries and put one on each side for balance. One will be used for starting the engine, and the other for accessories and trolling motor.


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## gillhunter (Jun 15, 2013)

Great looking project!! I had a similar boat with a 50 HP Johnson 2-stroke. I never burnt 6 gallons of gas in a single day, so you should be good. Fuel tanks should always be mounted on the center line of the boat like you have. If the boat lists to the right you might consider mounting both batteries on the left side. 
Again, great looking boat.


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## kensho1976 (Jun 23, 2013)

Just got back from a vacation with the family, and I'm ready to start on the project again. Two questions:

1) For those who moved their fuel tank forward, did you run your fuel line in any conduit?
2) What size wire would I need from the starting battery back to the motor? I figure a run of about 14 feet, accounting for all of the angels and bends.


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## typed by ben (Jun 23, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=319819#p319819 said:


> kensho1976 » Today, 02:25[/url]"]Just got back from a vacation with the family, and I'm ready to start on the project again. Two questions:
> 
> 1) For those who moved their fuel tank forward, did you run your fuel line in any conduit?
> 2) What size wire would I need from the starting battery back to the motor? I figure a run of about 14 feet, accounting for all of the angels and bends.


you could very safely run rubber fuel line under the floor. probably have to worry more about kinks than safety. 

for your starter id go no smaller than 2 gauge given a 14 foot run... these low voltage starting systems have insane current appetites and you gotta keep em fed


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## typed by ben (Jun 23, 2013)

so i double checked my guess and found this:


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## kensho1976 (Jun 23, 2013)

Thanks Ben.

I ran the fuel line today. Just laid it under the seats where the holes for drainage are. There are a couple of sharp edges I'm a little worried about, but I think everything should be fine. It'll be covered by flooring and surrounded by foam, so I can't see it getting nicked.

I priced out 2 AWG cable, and dang is it expensive. I'm looking at close to $150 just for the wiring from the starter battery to the engine. Since I'm on a tight budget, I think I may leave the starter battery back near the motor for now and move the other battery to the front for the trolling motor and accessories. If I decide to shell out the cash for the copper cable, I can always move the starter battery later without too much of an issue.


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## typed by ben (Jun 23, 2013)

good call on the battery... the remote idea is attractive until you have to run high load devices 

you could also run two batteries- a small lawn mower type in the rear to start your engine and a deep cycle to run your other items. for the cost of copper these days it might be a good option


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## kensho1976 (Jul 17, 2013)

It's been raining quite a bit here in Tampa, Florida, so I've been trying to take advantage of it and finally finish the front deck. Unfortunately, I have little space in my garage, so it's slow going.

I bought round black pulls and black nylon hinges for the hatches.

I filled in any holes along the sides of the 3/4" ply with wood putty. Then I sanded it down with 150 grit paper and cleaned the dust off. 

I put down two coats of Rust-Oleum Marine Coatings Primer. We dry fit everything when the white primer was dry. We originally thought we were going with dark tan (same color as the boat), but the white really popped. I put paint flakes on it dry, and the family really liked the look, so I decided to go with white instead of dark tan.

I followed up the primer with Valspar oil-based Satin Porch and Floor Paint in white from Lowes. I'll be putting the paint flakes down and then sealing with two or three coats of spar varnish. Thanks to Big for his inspiration with that one.

I'm chomping at the bit to be done with the front so I can take her out again. I'll still need to put the floor and back casting deck in, but at least the boat will be usable. This part took a lot longer than I thought it would given the limited space in the garage.


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## willsbarbour (Jul 17, 2013)

That bow platform looks incredible. Really like the wood look :mrgreen:


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## kensho1976 (Jul 21, 2013)

Second top coat and paint flakes added today.


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## kensho1976 (Jul 23, 2013)

Finished the last top coat of spar varnish. Added the pulls and nylon hinges I got from Ace Hardware. I'd like to add some of those spring hatch holders so the hatches will stay up. The spar varnish dried quickly (says 2-3 hours between coats). I spilled some on the port side and didn't see it, so when I went back a few hours later, it had made a nice glue like spot. Of course, it was the first thing my daughter saw when she came out to check on me.


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## kensho1976 (Aug 6, 2013)

I finally got the boat wet this weekend after the new deck install. I originally tried to seat myself and my two kids across the rear bench, but the boat seemed stern heavy. I had trimmed the motor all the way down, and the bow still wouldn't sink much in transit. With a heavier fishing buddy, I usually have no problem getting the bow to come down in transit.

Even after moving a kid to the wood in front, it still seemed stern heavy. I've looked at some pictures online of the Lowe tins, and they all seem to have the stern sitting low in the water, especially when stationary.

I had an idea to put the kids seats in the rear, making some kind of fold up doohickey, but I'm worried that the weight will be an issue. 

I haven't moved the batteries to the front yet because of the expense, but that would shift about 100 pounds aft. 

Also, does anyone let a person ride on the deck in a seat? Not one on an extension, but when the extension is off and the seat is plugged into the deck mount?


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## kensho1976 (Aug 26, 2013)

Saw some others on here using Google Sketch Up. I played around with it (a lot longer than I probably should have).

Here's the end design:







I've made a lot of mistakes since the first deck, and even some with the second deck. Heck, it's only plywood and paint. Everything else is reusable. But, time is what I don't have a lot of, so I really need to narrow down my vision. 

Got a quote on the battery cables - $160 with the ends on. I'll be picking those up to move the batteries to the front.

Dawson from Fish On Fabrications also gave me some awesome prices on welded aluminum boxes with lips. Haven't decided if I want to use wood as the cover, or flush mount them like Big Terp. I'm leaning towards the flush mount as I think it will be a cleaner presentation. The wood covers would make everything look identical though.

After talking to the guys that sold me the hull, I found out that the transom naturally rides low in the water, and I could put the kids in the back should they want to go on a ride. I still feel it's better to put them in front to help weigh down the bow. I didn't care for the way it rode last time three of us went out. I had to tilt the engine all the weigh in, and the bow was still too far up in the air.


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## kensho1976 (Oct 27, 2013)

I'm tinkering again. I had flush mounted some coolers in the rear benches, so I picked up two cheap Tempress 1115 hatches (11x15) that fit just inside the cooler. I made a frame out of 2x2 again, and then topped it with 3/4 ply. I used stainless steel screws to keep it all together. I plan on painting it just like the front. Once I save up a little, or my wife is kind enough to buy me some for Christmas, I plan on redoing the front with the hatches after all. 

Has anyone had any experience with the liners for the Tempress hatches? They're $50 or so dollars each, and they say you can make bait wells out of them. I'm not looking forward to wasting $50 if there not any good for storage or bait wells though.










And here's some fish I caught off the beach at Passe-a-Grille. I couldn't throw my spoon in fast enough. The jacks were chasing after anything and everything I could put on the line. It was fun! But I'm looking to get back in the boat.


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## kensho1976 (Oct 27, 2013)

I'm also toying around with an above deck anchor storage area. My son has trouble getting the anchor out from the front well. The anchor storage wouldn't be affixed until I redid the front, but I'm starting to like the idea. It also gives me a place to mount the trolling motor on the front and one of those shallow water anchor mounts.

Sorry about the picture orientation... for some reason, the website screws it up.


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## kfa4303 (Oct 28, 2013)

She looks great Ken! I hope you don't mind if I steal your foredeck design. As for the stern squat, if moving things around doesn't help much, you may want to look into some trim tabs. They make both simple fixed and fancy adjustable versions. They're very popular down here in FL where folks are always trying to get up and run as shallow as possible. If do a search here in the forums and online, you'll find tons of pics and examples. Lenco are probably the best know brand, but there are many others.


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## CLM (Oct 28, 2013)

Are those Tempress seats? How are you liking them? Boat looks good, I like the painted decks.


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## kensho1976 (Oct 28, 2013)

They're Tempress all weather high back seats I believe. The painted decks are nice, but grip is a little lacking. When I paint the back, I'm going to throw in grit for texture like I did on the first front deck.


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## kensho1976 (Jan 8, 2015)

She's now for sale! I upgraded to a 20' Pro-Line center console and need to get her our of my garage. She's always been garage kept, so she's in great condition. Engine has about 60 hours on her. I'm looking to get $4500. Based on the guides, I believe that to be a fair price, but if I'm way off, please let me know. I'm in the Tampa area, and can be reached by email ([email protected]) or text (813-405-5611).

Hull: 2012 Lowe Angler 1667 (16' aluminum modified V hull)
Trailer: 2012 Magic Tilt single axle, maintenance free.
Motor: 2005 Mercury 40HP EFI 4-stroke (See engine running here: https://youtu.be/tWRsYBS06ZM)

Boat comes with:
* Side console with switch panel
* Power tilt and trim
* Fuel/water separator
* Wang shallow water anchor and mount
* Four Tempress seats, one seat extension
* LED deck lights
* Navigation and anchor lights
* Spare tire
* Bimini top
* 500 gph bilge bump
* 12v outlet
* Dual batteries in stern compartment
* Transom mount trolling motor with tiller control
* Front mount 12 gallon fuel tank (removable)
* Stern mount 6 gallon fuel tank (removable)
* Two 3-rod holders in stern
* Cargo net under captain's seat
* Folding hitch


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## DacMan (Feb 13, 2015)

That's a great price imo


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## derekdiruz1 (Feb 13, 2015)

I wish you were in the "Canton, OH" area.

GLWS


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## kensho1976 (Feb 13, 2015)

Gentlemen, thanks for your input. It has been sold.


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