# Weldcraft factory pod angle!



## Jgadams83 (Aug 3, 2015)

Hey guys, I have a 1548 weldcraft that supposedly has factory installed pods on it, but the thing is they're level and flush with the bottom of the boat. I've noticed that all the after market ones say to install at an angle. Anyway, I have a very good aluminum welder and I'm going to have him angle them up for me. My question is how much do I need to angle them? They're 24inches long from the transom. I'm getting real bad porpoising when I try to trim it out the slightest bit and I know that the level pods aren't helping anything but I'd like to keep them to run this motor. I've got a Yamaha pro 75 tiller on it , boats right at 400lbs running a 6" jack plate, cav plate 2" above bottom, running a 13"x19 pitch michigan wheel 44.1mph @ 5300rpm and its has a brain beating bounce. I've got a power tech scd3 18pitch on the way which supposedly has more stern lift. Any advice from people with pods and fast Jon boats would be great! Here's a few pictures of what the pods look like.


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## Johnny (Aug 3, 2015)

JG, :WELCOME: to Tin Boats.
Please complete your profile when you have time.
Knowing what part of the country you hail from helps 
us give you more accurate information.


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## AllOutdoors (Aug 3, 2015)

I had pods on 1756 rr. Alum a craft boat with a 90/65 Yamaha jet. It was a 4 stroke. I know this is a completely different set up but the best I can remember the pods were welded on straight from the factory maybe 1/2" from the bottom. Before moving the pods I would try to move my motor. Probably down first to get the cavitation plate closer to the waterline while on plane. Hopefully someone can comment with a similar set up. Good luck! Hope you get it worked out soon.


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## Jgadams83 (Aug 3, 2015)

AllOutdoors said:


> I had pods on 1756 rr. Alum a craft boat with a 90/65 Yamaha jet. It was a 4 stroke. I know this is a completely different set up but the best I can remember the pods were welded on straight from the factory maybe 1/2" from the bottom. Before moving the pods I would try to move my motor. Probably down first to get the cavitation plate closer to the waterline while on plane. Hopefully someone can comment with a similar set up. Good luck! Hope you get it worked out soon.



I started out with the cav plate even with the bottom and the higher I get it the less porpoising I get. I don't have a water pressure guage so I'm scared to keep going up with it but where it is right now I still have a strong stream of water coming out at WOT, but I am starting to get some prop slip when getting on plane.


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## RiverBottomOutdoors (Aug 4, 2015)

Just the opposite observation here....sponsons/pods level with the hulll. If you change them you are going to drastically change the handling/performance of the hull. I have only seen them on hulls with no deadrise.


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## Jgadams83 (Aug 5, 2015)

RiverBottomOutdoors said:


> Just the opposite observation here....sponsons/pods level with the hulll. If you change them you are going to drastically change the handling/performance of the hull. I have only seen them on hulls with no deadrise.




That's what I'm trying to do... Get more performance "speed" and change the handling by trying to get more bow lift and not have the pods pushing the bow back down. Just thought I might get a little input on how much to angle them.


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## RiverBottomOutdoors (Aug 5, 2015)

What else have you tried to solve the purposing issue?


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## lovedr79 (Aug 5, 2015)

try moving as much weight as you can forward.


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## ADIBOO (Aug 5, 2015)

Beaver tail has instructions on how to mount their float pods on their website. Explorebeavertail.com


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## Jgadams83 (Aug 5, 2015)

I've moved my battieries to the front, tried different props, like I said in earlier posts I have a semi cleaver stern lifting prop on the way and I'm going to see if that helps. I've looked at the beaver tail instructions and they say 1/2inch with theirs but they're 17" long. I'm wondering since mine 24" if I should go 1"??? I'm trying to reduce the drag and possibly get the boat running on just the pods.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Aug 5, 2015)

Have you contacted Weldcraft to confirm if the pods are factory?


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## Jgadams83 (Aug 5, 2015)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> Have you contacted Weldcraft to confirm if the pods are factory?



I called them earlier today and yes they are factory and for reasons unknow they mount them level... I wasn't able to speak with a builder or designer just the lady who answered the phone but she assured me that they are level from weld-craft.


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## HeyItzCJ (Aug 6, 2015)

Raising them 1" would make a good air pocket to break suction and decrease drag. I'm not sure how much that would raise the bow though.

Put hinges and pistons on them and use them as trim tabs!


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## richg99 (Aug 6, 2015)

I'm a simple guy. If thousands of Weldcraft boats have their sponsons installed flat.....then thousands of other guys either do have your issues, or they have some setup that made the flat sponsons work.

I'd try this forum.\/ \/ *..and then keep looking at various forums until I found others with the same questions and answers. Re-welding a good boat to solve an unknown is not where I would start. richg99

* https://forums.outdoorsdirectory.com/showthread.php/59594-Weldcraft-boat-questions


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## Jgadams83 (Aug 6, 2015)

richg99 said:


> I'm a simple guy. If thousands of Weldcraft boats have their sponsons installed flat.....then thousands of other guys either do have your issues, or they have some setup that made the flat sponsons work.
> 
> I'd try this forum.\/ \/ *..and then keep looking at various forums until I found others with the same questions and answers. Re-welding a good boat to solve an unknown is not where I would start. richg99
> 
> * https://forums.outdoorsdirectory.com/showthread.php/59594-Weldcraft-boat-questions




I've looked all over the forums... Tinboats, scream and fly, scducks, and many many more for people setting up boats like this with no luck. They're built to be work horses and tuff I understand that, but I want mine to actually run if I want it too. And that link you sent me is a completely different weldcraft manufacturer... The boat I'm talking about is built in Arkansas.


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## richg99 (Aug 6, 2015)

Same answer. Keep looking before you destroy a professionally designed boat. Maybe you bought the wrong boat. 

But, changing the angle of the pods, without exhausting ALL other options, is a big step... IMHO.

I've owned 25+ boats over 55 years. I've made lots of mistakes. With the internet, the answers are often already out there. You just have to find them.

richg99


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## RiverBottomOutdoors (Aug 7, 2015)

I've got two guesses: Motor set up wrong or the hull was designed for level/shallow draft and not running WOT.


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## KRS62 (Aug 7, 2015)

What about that jack plate?? Is that at a different angle than the hull? 

KRS


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## Jgadams83 (Aug 21, 2015)

KRS62 said:


> What about that jack plate?? Is that at a different angle than the hull?
> 
> KRS



No the jackplate is the same angle.... I did finally get to run the power tech prop, and it definitely made the boat run a little bit flatter but still pourposing. Here's a few more pics. As far as setup goes, I've tried 2 jack plates 4 props and spent several hours at the lake messing with heights and what not.


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## Jgadams83 (Aug 21, 2015)

More


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## DrNip (Aug 31, 2015)

$50 solution to porposing.


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## Lowe 2070 CC (Sep 1, 2015)

What is the boat rated for, 35 or 40hp? My guess is too much weight on the transom/rear seat even with pods. The hydrofoil will help, but it's just a bandaid masking the problem of weight distribution. Have someone sit on the front deck and see if things work better. That will give you an idea of how much forward weight you need.


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## dutyranger (Sep 4, 2015)

my experience was with a completely different setup, but bear with me. when i worked in south florida we were running fiberglass, center console boats in everything from mudflats to shallow river to open ocean. we got up on plane w/ the motor trimmed all the way down. once on plane, we trimmed the motor up till the boat started to porpoise then backed it down just enough to stop it. this trim setting gave us the most efficient running position. our jack plates were used after our trim was set and the water started to get skinny. i'd start with adjusting your trim setting down a little at a time till the porposing stops.


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## Byrdmen (Sep 4, 2015)

My weldcraft 1870 runs exactly like you describe. Similar looking pods. These things don't really have any weight up front so they need very little nose up trim.

I've got 115 hp and it still isn't what anyone would call fast. It is what it is.


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## tomme boy (Sep 6, 2015)

Two ways to stop the porposing but do the same thing. Knock a hook into the rear of the pods or weld a bead across the rear of the pods. It will force the bow down and will not bouce anymore. I have always had a nice weld added. Then you can grind it down to find the sweet spot.

Some of the guys that race tinboats knock a hook into the rear corners of their hulls. I tried that one time but was a pain to get just right. And it works awesome if you get it right.


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## Jgadams83 (Sep 7, 2015)

Lowe 2070 CC said:


> What is the boat rated for, 35 or 40hp? My guess is too much weight on the transom/rear seat even with pods. The hydrofoil will help, but it's just a bandaid masking the problem of weight distribution. Have someone sit on the front deck and see if things work better. That will give you an idea of how much forward weight you need.



It's rated for a 60... Had them angled up 2 degrees and she will float the nose and got it running nice!


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## Lowe 2070 CC (Sep 8, 2015)

Good deal! Power wasn't my thought, motor weight was. You'd think Weldcraft would have already addressed this issue.


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## Jgadams83 (Sep 8, 2015)

One more...


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## nowgrn4 (Sep 14, 2015)

Those are definitely OEM pods. Just like the ones on my W-C 1652. They have the little "Wings" facing inward half way up.

Question; 75HP on a 60HP rated hull, who did you get insurance with? Progressive?


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## Jgadams83 (Sep 20, 2015)

This boats for sale if anyone is interested.... 

$11,500 with the Yamaha 75
$9500 with 00' Mercury 60 (59ci) tiller
$8500 with Yamaha 25 3 cylinder


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## FloridaGrown (Sep 22, 2015)

take a peek around MMT (mudmotortalk) them guys n gals know bunches about pods it seems. That sure is a purdy boat u got though


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