# Redecking a Bass Tracker



## Blkrvrbart (Apr 1, 2018)

Hello. I’m new to the forum. My parents have a 1981 Bass Tracker II that they’ve asked me to redeck. I have some 1/8” plate aluminum that would work as a substitute for the plywood, and it would be about the same amount of work either way. Any thoughts on whether this is an improvement or going to cause a problem? Thanks ahead of time for your constructive discussion.


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## CedarRiverScooter (Apr 1, 2018)

Should be lighter, stronger, & more durable.

Other than that, should work well.


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## nccatfisher (Apr 1, 2018)

Unless you just want to use it because you have it 1/8" is way overkill for flooring. Bunch of weight you don't need to carry.


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## Bearclaw (Apr 1, 2018)

I used 1/8" also in my latest project. I added some 3/4" tubing lengthwise for more support. With just the factory ribs running the width of the boat, the 1/8 had a good bit of flex/ give. This was with it just laying on the floor,not screwed down. Mabey with it screwed it would have helped but the extra supports running lengthwise definitely helped. Floor is rock solid now.


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## nccatfisher (Apr 1, 2018)

I always put .065 or .080 and put foam under it. With it screwed to the ribs, it is rock solid.


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## Blkrvrbart (Apr 1, 2018)

Thanks for the feedback. I’ll have to measure the actual gauge but as I recall from using it building my utility tractor cab it’s 1/8”. And with foam under it I think it would be fine as well. What kind of screws are you using? Stainless would be my choice, or rivets.


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## nccatfisher (Apr 2, 2018)

Blkrvrbart said:


> Thanks for the feedback. I’ll have to measure the actual gauge but as I recall from using it building my utility tractor cab it’s 1/8”. And with foam under it I think it would be fine as well. What kind of screws are you using? Stainless would be my choice, or rivets.


 #10 stainless.


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## onthewater102 (Apr 2, 2018)

If you're going to be in salt water use aluminum rivets, if only fresh then stainless is fine.

1/8 aluminum is about 1.75lb/ sq ft.

5/8 plywood is about 1.5

3/4 plywood is about 1.9

You're carrying about the same weight as you were before (I believe those decks were 5/8") but you'll never have to replace it again...

No sense buying something else to save a little weight when you've got the 1/8 available. 1/8 would work great for an elevated front deck & if you ran out & needed to buy aluminum you could go with a lighter gauge to save on cost & weight for the sections you can support with foam backing.


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## Blkrvrbart (Apr 2, 2018)

If I were to use plywood, it would be 3/4”, so the 1/8” plate is a little lighter. It is 1/8. And I’d feel better about rivets, plus I’m thinking about silicone between the rib and deck to eliminate any rattles. The upper bow deck and the custom stern deck I’m going to add will most likely be diamond plate 1/4” aluminum. I have about enough to make that happen. I would like to get it done by this summer to get them on the water, but the redecking is just the tip of the iceberg. Needs a complete rewire job, and I haven’t heard the engine run in three years. Looks more like some fall fishing may happen at the earliest. I’ll post build pictures. Thanks


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## Blkrvrbart (Apr 3, 2018)

Took another look at the Tracker this evening. Bow rim is cracked. May have to use the spool gun on this one, that’s pretty thin stuff. 
All the wiring is toast. Not much to it though. 
What kind of flotation foam holds up best?


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## Blkrvrbart (Apr 4, 2018)

Well, tore the old decking out. Mice had found all the flotation foam and destroyed it. I’m thinking about using closed cell spray foam in plastic bags kind of like in a jet ski hull. Would be more area of flotation foam than chunks, but do you see any reason to not use this method? What a mess that was.


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## Blkrvrbart (Apr 4, 2018)

Here’s a few more pictures.


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## Blkrvrbart (Apr 4, 2018)

Here’s a picture of the aforementioned cab for the utility tractor. 1/8” plate aluminum is very easily machined kind of like plywood. Plexiglass isn’t as forgiving.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Apr 5, 2018)

Silicone doesn't play nice with aluminum.


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## Blkrvrbart (Apr 6, 2018)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> Silicone doesn't play nice with aluminum.


Good to know. Had an hour to throw at it last night. Has anyone ran “smurf tube” (3/4” blue plastic conduit) for the wiring? I found a lot of bare wires and it seems like a good idea to me, but I’d probably drill holes through it every 1-2 feet for drainage before installation. Anybody with thoughts on the spray foam and bag ideas?


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## Blkrvrbart (Apr 7, 2018)

More progress. Had to flatten the smurf tube a little to fit in the channels. Decided just to use it in wear areas. All the new wire is pulled, and then some. Smurf tube all the way down the port side. I’ll put an access panel where the tee is. I have some 1 1/2” Dow Blue foam board I’d like to use for flotation under the floor. Any reasons not to?


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Apr 7, 2018)

The blue and pink foam boards work great.
A good alternative to silicone is Loctite 2 in 1 adhesive.


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## Blkrvrbart (Apr 7, 2018)

Thanks. Thoughts on Great Stuff?


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Apr 8, 2018)

Blkrvrbart said:


> Thanks. Thoughts on Great Stuff?


 You want a "closed cell" foam. Open cell foam will absorb moisture.


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## onthewater102 (Apr 8, 2018)

Great Stuff is good for filling small areas, but too expensive to do a whole boat. If you want to use expanding foam check out US Composites.com 2# expanding foam you mix the 2 parts 1:1 its pretty straight forward.


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## Blkrvrbart (Apr 13, 2018)

More progress last night. Mostly reriveting what was loose. Definitely going with aluminum decking. Welded the bow damage.


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## eshaw (Apr 13, 2018)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> Silicone doesn't play nice with aluminum.



Why is that?


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## gatorglenn (Apr 17, 2018)

I will be using this, to replace my foam. It’s use by a lot of the boat racing community. And it can be sculpted to your needs in areas where drainage is a must. Then Iam spraying truck bed line from cans. On top so water won’t sit on it to eventually soak in and saturate. This was my problem. It is closed cell foam. And is 1.75 pounds per cubic feet. Same as what was in these Trackers. Good luck with your build.


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## Blkrvrbart (Apr 19, 2018)

On the topic of aluminum and silicones, I use silicone on aluminum frequently in very wet locations with no ill effects. Maybe lock stock and two barrels has some reasoning behind his logic, but I am still planning to use silicone as a vibration damper more than anything. A high modulus silicone works really well for that. You don’t want too much in case you need to disassemble. Just enough in the right places to stop vibrations and oilcanning. Anybody?


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## Blkrvrbart (Apr 19, 2018)

gatorglenn said:


> I will be using this, to replace my foam. It’s use by a lot of the boat racing community. And it can be sculpted to your needs in areas where drainage is a must. Then Iam spraying truck bed line from cans. On top so water won’t sit on it to eventually soak in and saturate. This was my problem. It is closed cell foam. And is 1.75 pounds per cubic feet. Same as what was in these Trackers. Good luck with your build.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Thanks! I’ll check it out. Getting pretty close to that step.


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## Blkrvrbart (Apr 20, 2018)

Got the foam board installed last night. Was able to do the bow flotation foam out of foam board with spray foam in the gaps. Finished the top of the stacks with some of the original styrofoam. It’s better than the random chunks that were in there before. Might build up the bow deck higher to meet the bow step. One big platform 7” higher would be better.


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## Blkrvrbart (Apr 25, 2018)

Looked into building up the front deck and read the “decking when or when not to” thread. The rear seat is going to be up on a deck over the top of the two flotation wells, so I decided to keep the front deck stock height. If it seems stable, maybe next year we’ll raise the front deck, but I’d rather have stability for my folks than height. Just about ready for carpet.


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## Blkrvrbart (Apr 29, 2018)

Carpet is 95% done. Need some piano hinge to mount the storage doors and rear deck access. Then to put the console back in and connect wiring.


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## onthewater102 (Apr 30, 2018)

I have a tracker III and I really like the way you've got that storage area under the bow cap. I was struggling with how I was going to tastefully mate a u-shaped piece up to the deck.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Apr 30, 2018)

eshaw said:


> lckstckn2smknbrls said:
> 
> 
> > Silicone doesn't play nice with aluminum.
> ...


I didn't see this until today.
IIRC Silicone has an acid in it that can damage the aluminum. Loctite 2 in1 caulk is safe to use with aluminum.


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## Blkrvrbart (May 3, 2018)

Onthewater102: I can’t take credit for the bow storage compartment. It was already there. I did simulate it for a 24”w x 16” deep stow hole under the bow deck. When they are finished they will have a rectangular door on them. Good for cords, rope, lunch, rainwear. 



lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> eshaw said:
> 
> 
> > lckstckn2smknbrls said:
> ...



In construction we use acid cure 100% silicone with aluminum all the time. The acid in the raw silicone etches the oxidized surface of the aluminum enough to let the silicone bond to it, but as the silicone cures the acid is released and won’t harm the aluminum. Not looking for an argument, just relaying knowledge handed down to me. I have gotten away from disagreeing on forums, but a forum actually means a place to discuss, so if anyone has better wisdom, please feel free to add it here. Otherwise, well, otherwise would be just otherwise.


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## Blkrvrbart (May 10, 2018)

Well, tonight I tried bending the 1/4” plexiglass blank I had cut out for the windshield. I have a few hints if you’re interested. Cut a scrap piece and dink around with it. When you bend the real McCoy, clamp it down to a flat surface on foil, use a piece of wood to hold the bend line where you want it. Do not try to bend it too soon, it’ll crack. Use a Mapp torch for heat. Don’t get it too hot or you’ll have bubbles. 
That might save you some headaches. Good luck.


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## Blkrvrbart (May 12, 2018)

More progress.


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## gatorglenn (May 13, 2018)

Blkrvrbart said:


> More progress.


ok what screws did you use in the floor. Iam having a hard time matching the ones that came out of my floor. Thanks


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## ckhenshaw4 (May 13, 2018)

Your build looks great. Nice work. 

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## Blkrvrbart (May 15, 2018)

Second try on the windshield was better. It’s not perfect but it’ll work. Also took the wheel hubs apart on the trailer. New bearings, races, seals, washers, castle nuts, and hub savers. I polished the axle shafts and seal land, too. Surprised it made the 35 mile trip home.


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## Blkrvrbart (May 15, 2018)

gatorglenn said:


> Blkrvrbart said:
> 
> 
> > More progress.
> ...


They are stainless steel lath head number 8 self drilling screws. When you get through the top plate you have to reverse the impact, strip out that hole and then drive the screw in tight. Everything drew down nice.


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## gatorglenn (May 15, 2018)

Thanks, yea they are soft. Real easy to strip. Local Fastenal store, and but box store. Didn’t have any. They had the stainless steel coated ones. Didn’t want those because they will rust over time. And I do like the way they pull down. And disappear in the carpet Iam using.


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## Blkrvrbart (May 15, 2018)

Well, it’s done far as I can get it. Need to make the maiden voyage before I hand it over to them. Runs good out of the water, but needs to be ran a while to make sure it’ll restart hot. Hope this has been helpful to someone, and thanks for your help. Let’s go fishing!


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## Blkrvrbart (May 15, 2018)

gatorglenn said:


> Thanks, yea they are soft. Real easy to strip. Local Fastenal store, and but box store. Didn’t have any. They had the stainless steel coated ones. Didn’t want those because they will rust over time. And I do like the way they pull down. And disappear in the carpet Iam using.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I am serious about stripping out the hole in the decking. As soon as you get through the decking material, before you cut into the framing, stop your drill( or driver) , REVERSE IT, and “strip out” the hole in the decking. After you do that, set your drill or driver to forward and tighten the screw down without stripping the hole in the framing or snapping off the screw. This will tighten down the decking to the framing without leaving a gap or breaking the screw. It takes less time and tools than predrilling. It’ll come easy by the fourth screw.


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## gatorglenn (May 17, 2018)

Thanks. I thought you meant to predrill. 


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## Blkrvrbart (May 27, 2019)

Well, it’s been a year. Lots of flooding around here this spring. Not too great for getting out on the Tracker. But there’s still hope. Hope your fishing days are plentiful.


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## Blkrvrbart (Apr 11, 2020)

Hey! Well, we took it out a couple times finally last year. Mom enjoyed it. Didn’t catch anything but had fun anyway. It’s been close to two years now. Wow what a difference in history. Our state ran lakes are closed, our local favorite lake was restocked last year after a drain down. Not the best year for fishing. In the meantime, I sold my three seater jet ski and bought a jet boat with a blown motor and repaired that. Twice as many people than the jet ski, more fun for everyone. You can see the progress with that on the jetboaters forum if you want. https://jetboaters.net/threads/2001-tango-engine-swap.24973/
More work than the old Tracker, that’s for sure. And now that the shelter in place gig is going on, might be a while before we get her out. 
I hope you all have a great Easter!


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## Blkrvrbart (Jan 9, 2022)

Well, it’s been a minute since being on here. Last spring the Tracker got a 24v troller and a different fish finder. Actually got it out three times, and caught a few nice bass each time. The livewell fill tubes are leaking at the hull, and I’m not confident enough to try to weld those myself, so I’m looking for a good tig welder to weld em up. Hope to get it done before spring. Stay warm, and stay positive!


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## lukeduke07 (Jan 27, 2022)

HAHA I completely read the title wrong and confused "redecking" with REDNECKING. 

Rednecking a Bass Tracker sounds like an oxymoron


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## Blkrvrbart (Feb 1, 2022)

lukeduke07 said:


> HAHA I completely read the title wrong and confused "redecking" with REDNECKING.
> 
> Rednecking a Bass Tracker sounds like an oxymoron


Lol. Rednecking requires much more duct tape and flexseal. Maybe bolting down the old recliner on the front deck that was on the porch with the cooler in the armrest. Or mounting that deer head to the bow. Now you’re giving me all kinds of ideas!


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## LDUBS (Feb 2, 2022)

Blkrvrbart said:


> lukeduke07 said:
> 
> 
> > HAHA I completely read the title wrong and confused "redecking" with REDNECKING.
> ...




Leaky rivets? No problem. Truck bed liner in a can will take care of it!


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## Blkrvrbart (Mar 21, 2022)

One of the final details to repair on the old Tracker was the livewell feed tubes were leaking at the hull. I took the old girl to Luke Bartlett of BART Custom Boats up by Sparland IL. Luke did a great job welding the livewell tubes where they leaked. Hope all the leaks are fixed now!


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