# Dyeguy's 1648 Mod- Pics Update... DONE



## dyeguy1212

Well I figure its about time I start a mod thread. Its a 1648 Fisher (even though it has tracker stickers), with a 40 HP mariner. Both are from '93.

Came with a ton of extras, like an older minnkota TM (works awesome, but only a 36 lb thrust), 2 cabelas AGM batteries, a minnkota deckhand electric anchor winch, a cover and motor cover, transom saver, flush mount, solar charger,and some stuff for docking it. He forgot to give me the book he had for the motor, so he took the liberty of mailing it to me for free. The guy was great to deal with, and I was happy to give him 1500.


I'm in the planning stage, and I'm saving up money for the project (plus it gives me an excuse to fish the remainder of the summer, and gut the boat later). I'll post up some of my ideas here in a few, and you guys can chime in. For now, here are some pictures.


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## dyeguy1212

heres two of the originals from the CL ad. The lake it was stored in (this past year only) was a MESS, and I'm still struggling to find something that will take the grime off. luckily, its a tan boat. I'm not sure if a good power washer would do the trick, but I do have access to one if I want to drive 45 mins to use it. Elbow grease and bleach hasn't made a dent in it. I made the mistake of trying a metal scraper, and I said bye bye to a nice chunk of paint #-o


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## dyeguy1212

I bought a livewell from fishmatepro.com because they are having a decent sale. decided I'd really like to have a quaility livewell, considering its going to be steped on everytime I get on the front deck...

I got the 32x12x10 with two doors and a separator. Its only 16.6 gallons, but hoefully it'll get the job done for the occasional tournament. 

heres a link..put out 271 for it...
https://fishmatepro.com/Livewells/ProBass32.aspx


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## dyeguy1212

Heres a basic idea of he front deck. Im going to rebuild the existing floor with a thinner plywood, to create dry storage, and a flat surface for mounting 2x2 supports. I'm trying to keep this as light as possible, so I'm going to play around with the ideas a little more once I start tearing it apart.

I might end up putting the 2x2s directly into the bottom ribs, and then putting small floor pieces inside each storage spot to keep weight down.

The blue part is where the livewell will go, the black rectangle infront of it will be a dry storage spot for my TM battery. The small black square roughly in the middle of the deck will be where the seat will be mounted, and the two side rectangles will be dry storage for life jackets and tackle.

The red outline is the actual deck, and may or may not go under the console. The way it is set up now, it puts the console at a very slight angle (because it was originally attached to the bench) and its enough to drive me nuts.


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## Henry Hefner

opcorn:


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## dyeguy1212

I guess its about time for some updates, because I start next weekend. After a long wait and a TON of hassle with fishmatepro, they sent me whatever livewell they had lying around.

I ended up with a 30" with diamond plate, as opposed to the 32" with two regular aluminum doors. And a missing fish separator. Thanks for nothing Dan Howell. :evil: 

Anywho, this is what I have so far:
Livewell, pumps, spray head, hoses, thru-hulls. Also got a great deal on lights from bluewaterled.
45lb Minn Kota Edge, got it for a steal from BPS off season
Humminbird matrix 35 fishfinder, bought from bugpac
Recessed cup holders and hatch tabs
new bilge pump
6 feet of continuous piano hinge, going to be cut to size
couple stacks of simpsons strong ties
2 other bright led lights, compliments of bluewaterled
New bow light
trolling motor plug
a stringray hydrofoil (which is being returned tomorrow morning) because I'm buying trim tabs instead
2 new seat bases
Switch panel with 5 switches and a 12v accessory port
and some other odds and ends


I still have to buy:
Speedometer and tachometer
Front color fish finder

a ton of 2x2s and 3/4" and 1/2" ply wood
thompsons water seal
more strong ties
all the screws for the build
carpet and carpet glue
staples

14 gauge wire for the pumps
16 gauge wire for the lights
shrink wrap for the wires

and a 1 1/16" hole saw for the 3/4" thru-hull fittings
an 11/16" hole saw for the spray nozzel (if anyone knows where I can find these cheap, please let me know!!)

Once the weather warms up I'll also be needing a camo stencil, which is in the works, and some self etching primer and nonslip paint.

The motor is also going to get some work done, with a complete carb rebuild, and new waterpump and seals. Once everything else is done, I'm going to figure out what new prop I'll need to get this thing back up to speed.


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## 270Handiman

=D> It's about time you updated this thread. I read your other build thread yesterday, and wondered where the 1648 was that you had in your sig line.

270


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## dyeguy1212

I have a lot of plans (and work to do) for this mod. Its geared toward bass fishing.

I plan to put a couple flotation boxes in the rear, because I don't need the space all that bad, and its a good insurance policy.

Heres a paint rendition of what my plans are. The dimensions are a little off because I took a pic from a grizzly and made it look similar to mine.

Keep in mind that running under the livewell and 4 hatches there will be 1/2 ply wood, to keep it true "dry storage". The two hatches next to the livewell are just there so I can access the pumps and hoses with ease. 

I'm staying with the current console set up, keeping it on top of the bench. I don't need all that deck space, so putting the console on top of it frees up a lot of space else where. I'll be making my own console out of plywood, but for now I just put a stock console in the pic.

Key:
Red lines are 2x2s
Yellow boxes are storage hatches
Blue box is the livewell
Big black boxes are stock benches (can't be removed)
Brown box is a recessed trolling motor hole
purple boxes are flotation boxes (under the deck)
Tan boxes are walls of cockpit

Starting battery and accessory battery with by stored in the two rear hatches behind the seats. The trolling motor battery will be stored in the left front hatch, in front of the livewell. I'm hoping this will keep the boat pretty well balanced.


I forgot to put the other pedestal mount in the blue print. There will be another one right on the edge of the rear deck on the same set of 2x2s so that I can put a 3rd seat between and behind the two cockpit seats for a 3rd person.


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## dyeguy1212

By the way, can one of the mods please move this to the conversions section. This thread was made before the conversions section was in existence :lol:


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## Henry Hefner

Man, I'm sorry to hear about your hassles with the live well. Be sure to send a link to this thread to them. With customer service like that, maybe you got what they have left because they are about to close their doors.


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## mangelcc

Your plans look really good. I have a 1448 still cant decide what I want. You have a great start. Are you going to deck it a couple inches below the front deck and deck it on the two by twos on the second seat? Will this make it level while in the water?


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## Brine

Henry Hefner said:


> Man, I'm sorry to hear about your hassles with the live well. Be sure to send a link to this thread to them. With customer service like that, maybe you got what they have left because they are about to close their doors.



Pretty sure Russ has a nightmare story of his own from this company.


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## dyeguy1212

Unfortunately, its the opposite. They worked out a deal with cabelas, so they were flooded with orders.


The owner really doesn't give a crap about customer service. I emailed daily, and got blown off. Called daily, and got blown off. They must have a list of excuses 10 miles long.

In the end, I ended up with the wrong size livewell, with only one door instead of two, with diamond plate on top (with a big scratch across it) instead of flat aluminum, and no fish separator, which I paid extra for. Not to mention it took almost 6 months to get this, and it wasn't even a custom order!



And you're right Brine, Russ is still waiting for his, and he ordered before me!


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## dyeguy1212

mangelcc said:


> Your plans look really good. I have a 1448 still cant decide what I want. You have a great start. Are you going to deck it a couple inches below the front deck and deck it on the two by twos on the second seat? Will this make it level while in the water?



yes, the deck will be a little lower than the front deck. I'm not sure if it will be level with the water considering the amount of weight being added and moved around, but it will be level with the front bench, which is a good enough square for me :lol:


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## dyeguy1212

Heres some pics of the stuff I've accumulated over the winter for this mod 8) :


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## Bemisboy1

Where do you order a livewell like that?


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## mangelcc

It looks like you have a great start. I like that live well that you have. Your going to have an awesome boat when you get finished.


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## dyeguy1212

Bemisboy1 said:


> Where do you order a livewell like that?



fishmatepro


but don't. thats all I have to say.


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## mangelcc

I like it.


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## dyeguy1212

I'm not a fan of diamond plate. Otherwise, its okay. I sure hope it doesn't leak, cause something tells me their customer service department wouldn't be offering to fix it for me :|


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## dyeguy1212

These are the trim tabs I'm going with. Pretty good price. I'd prefer fully adjustable ones, but they're just not in my price range. I thought about going with pods, but they're even more expensive, and more of a pain in the arse to install.


https://www.wholesalemarine.com/p/NAU-SX9510-30-BL/


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## rusmir

nice // i like the electric stuff /


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## Truckmechanic

dyeguy1212 said:


> and a 1 1/16" hole saw for the 3/4" thru-hull fittings
> an 11/16" hole saw for the spray nozzel (if anyone knows where I can find these cheap, please let me know!!)




I know they probably won't be cheap but do have a Fastenal? Man they have a brand that makes the best cuts I have seen come out of a hole saw...and the stay straight.

You mod looks like it is going to be really nice. Keep us posted.


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## dyeguy1212

Nope.. I'm just looking to find the two sizes as a drill bit from HD, but they don't have them. I thought about getting something close and just filing it out, but I'd rather not have to do that.

Can't find the sizes I need at harbor freight either, and I was really depending on them to keep my costs down :lol:


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## Henry Hefner

dyeguy1212 said:


> Nope.. I'm just looking to find the two sizes as a drill bit from HD, but they don't have them. I thought about getting something close and just filing it out, but I'd rather not have to do that.
> 
> Can't find the sizes I need at harbor freight either, and I was really depending on them to keep my costs down :lol:



Ever use a step drill? I love 'em: https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96275

Here is a spray head very similar to mine: https://www.boatersland.com/att41257.html

And Cabela's has one you can tie a hose on: https://www.cabelas.com/p-0031989017566a.shtml


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## dyeguy1212

I swear I looked at those but didn't see the size I needed... thats really weird..


Thanks for bringing that to my attention.. you just made a sale :lol:

Heres a picture of the spray head I'm using.. its more of an aerator head..


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## RStewart

A little money saving tip for you. If you havent already bought ur 2x2s, then get 2x4s and rip them in half. In my neck of the woods, 2x2s were only a few cents cheaper than 2x4s. So by getting 2x4s and ripping them, I basically got 2 for the price of 1. Nice boat by the way. This is gonna be a sweet ride when its done.


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## dyeguy1212

Thanks for the tip, but they're pretty well priced up here. Not to mention it would cost me more, because all I have is a skilsaw, which makes for some pretty uneven cuts.


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## Sureshot

Dyeguy - what size open width hinges did you order from aircraft spruce. Im not sure what ones to get...


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## RStewart

dyeguy1212 said:


> Thanks for the tip, but they're pretty well priced up here. Not to mention it would cost me more, because all I have is a skilsaw, which makes for some pretty uneven cuts.



Skilsaw is what I use to rip them. Cuts arent always perfect but close enough.


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## Froggy

Fred Bear be proud of you man...


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## dyeguy1212

Got some new toys today.. a lot of tackle and something for my boat: Front pedestal with seat swivel and a bass pro towel 8)


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## dyeguy1212

Sureshot said:


> Dyeguy - what size open width hinges did you order from aircraft spruce. Im not sure what ones to get...



Sureshot, I got my hinges from wholesale marine. Their customer service and overall quality is outstanding.. I am one happy customer!

Heres a link to the hinge:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rVnplh7gnlU&feature=related


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## switchback

Nice boat and a good bit of work. Can't wait to see the finished project.


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## Sureshot

Thanks dyeguy for the info. The link didnt work but i got on their site.


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## Brine

dyeguy1212 said:


> Sureshot, I got my hinges from wholesale marine. Their customer service and overall quality is outstanding.. I am one happy customer!
> 
> Heres a link to the hinge:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rVnplh7gnlU&feature=related






Sureshot said:


> Thanks dyeguy for the info. The link didnt work but i got on their site.



Ummmmmm......Their customer service sucks. A nice lady answered the phone then handed it to some jerk who yelled obscenities at me.


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## PhilM

Great project I am looking forward to your progress. Always looking for new idea's for my project. :USA1:


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## dearl

Dyeguy that's a good looking boat, its got tons of potential. I can see it camouflage when you get done. :mrgreen: Looks good and steady in the water also. Can't wait to see the finished product.


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## dyeguy1212

Sureshot said:


> Thanks dyeguy for the info. The link didnt work but i got on their site.




hahahahaha sorry.. copy and paste failed me.. that was an old paste I sent to my buddy cause he got speeding ticket :lol: :lol:


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## dyeguy1212

dearl said:


> Dyeguy that's a good looking boat, its got tons of potential. I can see it camouflage when you get done. :mrgreen: Looks good and steady in the water also. Can't wait to see the finished product.



I've been trying my damnedest to get some stencils, but the company that I'm looking to get them from keeps blowing me off. I'm looking for something similar to the ones pictured, and these are the closest I can get (the long one across the bench):
https://www.stencilease.com/db/display.asp?input=2278


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## SrPhatness

Can't wait to see it come together. 
Rock on,


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## dyeguy1212

Got the propane tanks filled today.. looking to start saturday after I watch the classic and not stop until the next airing 8)


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## Truckmechanic

dyeguy1212 said:


> Got some new toys today.. a lot of tackle and something for my boat: Front pedestal with seat swivel and a bass pro towel 8)




Be careful with that pedestal...I have one just like it and once it got some wear on it it started just dropping to the bottom unexpectadly..I ended up having to drill a hole in mine and installing a bolt.


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## dyeguy1212

Thanks, I'll be sure to keep that in mind. I'm not expecting it to get too much wear, considering I never actually sit, I just lean. But I'm sure it will take a crap if I give it a chance...

Good call on putting a bolt through it.. I might do that anyways :lol:


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## SrPhatness

better safe then sorry


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## dyeguy1212

Finally got a hold of the stencil guys.. its going to cost me 35 bucks for the custom stencil... not too bad, but more than I wanted to pay :?


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## dyeguy1212

Had a hell of a time getting the boat out of the back yard and into the driveway today.. had about a foot of snow to drive through with my 4x4 jimmy. Took some work but it got the job done.


Had some time before work so I started taking stuff off that I intend to keep, and started to throw out the rest. Got the minnkota deck hand off, started to disconnect some of the wiring, and tore off the walls. Only snapped a few pics with my phone. The wheels are in motion!

Gonna get after it tomorrow.. starting at 11 am after I watch the bassmater classic, and not stopping until 10 PM for the next segment of it.


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## SrPhatness

Are you going to tear out all of the decking??? I would. 

Then on the wiring. I would make note as to where the wires hook up to the motor (ignition and trim), plan out what wires you are going to need to go where. Then I would cut that mess of old wire in half right there. Then tape new wire to the old end to end, so that when you pull out the old wire, it fishes the new wire right into place. So long as your not going to change the location of the wire itself. Do away with the old wiring so you don't have any problems.


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## Lunkerville

Good luck with the build Dyeguy. Can you let me know where you picked up your switch panel, it looks sweet.


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## dyeguy1212

SrPhatness said:


> Are you going to tear out all of the decking??? I would.
> 
> Then on the wiring. I would make note as to where the wires hook up to the motor (ignition and trim), plan out what wires you are going to need to go where. Then I would cut that mess of old wire in half right there. Then tape new wire to the old end to end, so that when you pull out the old wire, it fishes the new wire right into place. So long as your not going to change the location of the wire itself. Do away with the old wiring so you don't have any problems.




I cut all of the non-engine wires out and ditched them. That solved the issue real quick. And yes, I'm tearing it all out. Its treated wood and pitting the aluminum. Plus it looks like garbage.

Lunkerville, I forget where I got it. I believe iboats.com, but I could be wrong.




I'll post some pics later tonight. Got everything torn out, console removed, and I'm griding off the paint around the gunwales so I have fresh aluminum to paint on. I'm going with antislip stuff again, cause as it turns out, its tough as nails in some spots. The rest was chipping from what I would assume is lack of preparation.


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## Froggy

cant wait to see what you come up with!


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## Nussy

What happened to working from Classic to Classic??? :LOL2:


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## dyeguy1212

Nussy said:


> What happened to working from Classic to Classic??? :LOL2:



Ran out of stuff to do until I can get to HD tomorrow and buy some wood.. Just got home from the quarter car wash.. sprayed it down, let it drain to the back, vacuumed, then repeated the process. I got most of the gunk out and its draining freely now.


Sorry about the lack of pics, my camera died on me when taking the final pics of the day.. I'll try to get them up tomorrow.


As of now, the boat is:
stripped down to the benches
grinded the gunwales to remove paint (took off as little metal as possible). Had to use the 4in grinder because the nonskid paint was just eating up the wire wheels. I took extra care not to grind welds or anything structural.
Washed it down, and its ready for decks.


Looking at some snow this week, so I don't know what kind of progress I'll make. I'm looking to build the framing and get the decks on, then remove it all, throw it up against the wall in the garage, and wait for a warm enough day to water seal it.


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## SrPhatness

Yep, 
More snow this week. Hope it's not to much, or we will be in some trouble around here. All of the rivers and creeks are starting to ice damn up and overflow from all of the meltdown. 

I always to remind myself how fortunate I am to have a garage, even if it is super small. Salamander heater keeps it nice and warm, at the expense of brain cells to the fumes. Which allows me to keep going, as long I have money for heater fuel.

Just keep pecking at it when you can. Cant wait to see what it looks like.


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## dyeguy1212

Got a lot done today.. mainly, blowing 180 bucks at Home Depot. Got everything I need except plywood (need a pickup), carpet and some misc. things. Picked up all the framing, over 50 strong ties, 2 boxes of screws, all the wiring, staples, solder, 2 small drains for the cockpit area, carpet glue and trowel, marine epoxy, and some 5200. Also got some thompson's water seal with wood protector for 10 bucks off, so I got two jugs.


Here are the pics leading up to today.


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## dyeguy1212

Here are the mystery pictures.... See captions for my questions.. :?:


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## dyeguy1212

I decided to take off all of the antiskid paint, and reapply the correct way when its warm enough. I tried using a wirewheel and a paint stripping wheel, and the paint destroyed both. So I took out the 4inch grinder and told the boat where to stick it. Took off a little metal, but not much.


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## dyeguy1212

Here are the most up to date pictures. Everything is rock solid. I can stand on the livewell and jump/sway and its not going anywhere.. turning out awesome


The big I shape in the bottom of the floor is the support for 1/2in plywood for the storage area. The bottom ribs sit on an angle, so the I shape was the best way to do it. Put in some plywood and it turned out pretty good, but took it out so I can put in more support running to the floor ribs, then put the ply in last.


Hardest thing about this mod is that I have to do all this work, then strip it all back down and water seal it


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## MeanMouth

Looking nice, I'm going to be following this project closely. Keep up the pics; love seeing them.


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## Froggy

Yeah, me too.


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## Troutman3000

Looking good man. Hopefully it warms up soon for you.


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## dyeguy1212

Got the front deck complete, other than the recessed foot tray. Also got my console fishfinder/gps, compliments of bugpac. Starting on the cockpit floor, but gotta go to work first.. pics later tonight


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## dyeguy1212

Okay, like I said, everything up front is complete other than the recessed foot tray. I'm going 4 inches down, so I need to go to HD and buy some sort of 2x4 bracing. Everything is rock solid, and level (something I figured I'd struggle with).


I also got the cockpit floor bracing in, which was a pain. The fact that the ribs are not flat across the bottom but angled down makes it tough to create a flat surface. However, I got it perfectly level, and as solid as its gonna get. There is a little play in the 2x's that are right next to each other, because I can't get a screw into the inside edges. However, once plywood is sitting on top of it, and seat pedestals screwed down, its not going anywhere.


I'm really starting to dread tearing it all back apart, sealing it, and reassembling it. I'm going to take layout pictures of everything, number it all, label the top and front sides, and write the order I disassembled it, and reverse the order when I put it back in. It'll drive me nuts if the boat turns out worse the second time around :shock:


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## dyeguy1212

final pics for the night


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## Truckmechanic

Looking good, Could you not remove everything while assembled and spray all at once?


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## dyeguy1212

No, because I need the sealer behind the brackets, and in the screw holes (most importantly). I'll leave the brackets that are attached to the boat, but the rest has to come out.


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## Rat

Lookin' good, that's a lot of deck space! Sealing is a pain, but, as you know, well worth it. Are you planning to put foam under the sole and how are you planning on draining the cockpit to the bilge?


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## Ta5teless

Hey instead of Wood I am using an Aluminum Extrusion.. www.modtool.com Joe Alanari, He's in Troy MI.

My last 1648 I used his extrusion and it worked great!! And it held up the the riggers of my fat hind end!!!!! I am picking up my next project a 1870 and I plan on decking it out with the extrusion as well. 

Feel free to e-mail me at [email protected] for any questions

It's really easy to use, drill, tap and modify. Joe has all kinds of fasteners that are easy to use!!


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## dyeguy1212

Ta5teless said:


> Hey instead of Wood I am using an Aluminum Extrusion.. https://www.modtool.com Joe Alanari, He's in Troy MI.
> 
> My last 1648 I used his extrusion and it worked great!! And it held up the the riggers of my fat hind end!!!!! I am picking up my next project a 1870 and I plan on decking it out with the extrusion as well.
> 
> Feel free to e-mail me at [email protected] for any questions
> 
> It's really easy to use, drill, tap and modify. Joe has all kinds of fasteners that are easy to use!!




What did that run you?


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## dyeguy1212

Rat said:


> Lookin' good, that's a lot of deck space! Sealing is a pain, but, as you know, well worth it. Are you planning to put foam under the sole and how are you planning on draining the cockpit to the bilge?



I have 2 2inch plastic drains. There won't be a perfect seal, so theoretically the water would drain on its own, but would take a while. I figure the two drains will work perfect.


As for foam, I havent decided. I'd like to get something up front to deaden the sound, but we'll see. I am planning on putting two flotation boxes in the transom area, but I might ditch the idea in favor of storage area.


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## Troutman3000

dyeguy1212 said:



> No, because I need the sealer behind the brackets, and in the screw holes (most importantly). I'll leave the brackets that are attached to the boat, but the rest has to come out.




Are you sealing the inside as well? With what?


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## dyeguy1212

Troutman3000 said:


> dyeguy1212 said:
> 
> 
> 
> No, because I need the sealer behind the brackets, and in the screw holes (most importantly). I'll leave the brackets that are attached to the boat, but the rest has to come out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you sealing the inside as well? With what?
Click to expand...


What do you mean, inside?


Guess it doesnt matter, because every piece of wood in the boat will be sealed with thompsons water sealer with wood protector.


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## Troutman3000

You answered my question....... 

I'm sealing all my wood as well. Dont want to pay for all that sh*t again.


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## dyeguy1212

Yeah I'm hoping I don;t regret using wood. If I can afford it, I'd like to replace the plywood with aluminum. I don't think the framing will rot out for a long time, but plywood always seems to go quick.


I still can't decide if I want to use 1/2" or 3/4". The hatches are pretty small, so I could probably get away with 1/2", but I'm not sure. Weight is a big concern, so I'd live to avoid 3/4" if at all possible. Either way it'll fit in the boat, but 1/2" might fit a little better... hmmmm....


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## Bugpac

Looks good, what are you doing under the seat bases, From what I see, I would suggest adding a piece of 2x10 or something under the 2x2 and bolting threw both pieces.. Spreads the weight more.. But i am a fat guy as well,


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## Bugpac

I did my floor with 2x2's 12" on center and used 1/2, it doesnt give at all, but i also glued it to the 2x2's as well, I think that adds some rigidness.. I think you would be fine with 1/2..


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## dyeguy1212

Mine are about 14 or 15" apart, more so in the cock pit. I'm going to give 1/2" an honest try, but if all else fails I'll go with 3/4". I wish I could find some sheet metal for cheap for the front decks, because thats where a ton of the weight is going to be. Maybe I'll spring for it next winter...


As for the seat bases, what you see is what you get.. so far. I haven't tested the cockpit out with seat bases yet, so we'll see. The front pedestal will have another long 2x2 running under it, help up by the bolts for the pedestal. Its solid as it is, but I want some reassurance for rough conditions. Its not in the pictures, because I didnt think of it until after I put all the bracing in, and the extra 2x2 wont fit unless I put it in first


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## Henry Hefner

dyeguy1212 said:


> ... I wish I could find some sheet metal for cheap for the front decks...



Sometimes, if you know the right places, you can buy used for just over scrap prices at scrap yards. Some scrap yards take advantage of higher value items that come in, but the ones that are just going to re-sell as scrap, will often sell to anyone at that price. It can be worth your time to stop in a handy scrap metal yard and ask... That's where I picked up some of my aluminum.


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## dyeguy1212

Half the battle is finding scrap yards near by. I've asked around and the only well-known ones are in Detroit. Not only is an on hour away, I don't like to be there for any reason other than sporting events lol.

I'll have to do some searching


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## Bugpac

My vote is 1/2 ply, it will last a long time... I like that new sig line, I been throwing lipless cranks "Rtraps" since November already...


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## dyeguy1212

I'm thinking I'll throw in some more ribs on the cockpit to have 12 in spacing, and definitely use 1/2" there. I haven't done the rear deck bracing yet, so if I have enough 2x2's, I'll do 12" spacing and use 1/2" there too. While I'd like to keep the front light, the stern is probably more important, considering that big 'ol 40 horse hanging on it...

I really don't think I can pull it off up front though.. the hatches are just too big to not risk falling though one day..


----------



## Bugpac

The hatches are wood to? 12" spacing in 4' is only one more board... you wont even notice the weight difference.. :mrgreen: I think you are close enough as is, Id glue it and screw it for rigidity..


----------



## dyeguy1212

Yeah, everything is wood.


All the decks are going to be bolted down in 6 places with carriage bolts... they aren't going anywhere


----------



## Troutman3000

Could you eleborate on your plan to attach the decks? I am looking for some ideas.


----------



## dyeguy1212

Carriage bolts. Thats about it :lol:


----------



## Ta5teless

I'm sitting here with him as we speak and he looked at your photos and Says you did a nice job. Profile runs about $5.00 per foot and you would use a lot less than the wood....


----------



## Troutman3000

dyeguy1212 said:


> Carriage bolts. Thats about it :lol:



Thanks. :roll:


----------



## dyeguy1212

Ta5teless said:


> I'm sitting here with him as we speak and he looked at your photos and Says you did a nice job. Profile runs about $5.00 per foot and you would use a lot less than the wood....




Thanks, I appreciate it.

Thats well out of my price range right now, but if I keep the boat long enough to need to redo the decking, I'll keep your post in mind.


----------



## dyeguy1212

Got a lot done today, even though it doesn't necessarily feel/look like it. I adeed/moved some supports around to allow 1/2" ply on the front deck and cockpit. I haven't started on the rear deck yet, because I'm still deciding on the design.. so it might take a week or two.


I'm going to tearing everything apart and water sealing tomorrow. Hopefully it'll dry okay with the propane heater in the garage.


----------



## Doug

The mods are looking great. Keep the pic's coming.


----------



## dyeguy1212

Here are a couple pics of the progress I made today. The recessed foot tray was a bit of a pain, so I'm glad to have it out of the way. In comparison to the other pics, you'll notice I added more support in the cockpit to allow for 1/2" plywood, and added the 2x2's connecting the cockpit floor to the front deck (which turned out to be a waste, because I need to put the floor in before I can secure said connections). But progress is progress.


----------



## Dave11

Do you know the what the thickness is of the aluminum brackets you are using to piece together your 2x2 frame? 

I would be careful about how much weight I put on those if they are an 1/8" thick or less especially on longer runs. 

I have a mechanical engineering background, so if are questioning how much support you need or how much deflection your deck would experience I might be able to give you some sort of estimates before you even buy or cut anything.

Best bet, would be to design the supports to withstand around 500 lbs (two guys and then some) as a worst case scenario.

Good Luck!


----------



## russ010

Dave11 said:


> Do you know the what the thickness is of the aluminum brackets you are using to piece together your 2x2 frame?
> 
> I would be careful about how much weight I put on those if they are an 1/8" thick or less especially on longer runs.
> 
> I have a mechanical engineering background, so if are questioning how much support you need or how much deflection your deck would experience I might be able to give you some sort of estimates before you even buy or cut anything.
> 
> Best bet, would be to design the supports to withstand around 500 lbs (two guys and then some) as a worst case scenario.
> 
> Good Luck!



Those brackets are designed to just piece the 2x2s together without drilling through the top or sides (which would cause more load stress). What he is using, and the spacing between each brace/support base will hold more than 2 guys, so weight is not the issue.

He did this build a lot better than some of us do... the only issue he's going to have is putting fish in his Fishmate Pro Livewell that he loves so much... lol


----------



## Johnny5

There simpson strong ties! They hold the world together


----------



## dyeguy1212

Dave11 said:


> Do you know the what the thickness is of the aluminum brackets you are using to piece together your 2x2 frame?
> 
> I would be careful about how much weight I put on those if they are an 1/8" thick or less especially on longer runs.
> 
> I have a mechanical engineering background, so if are questioning how much support you need or how much deflection your deck would experience I might be able to give you some sort of estimates before you even buy or cut anything.
> 
> Best bet, would be to design the supports to withstand around 500 lbs (two guys and then some) as a worst case scenario.
> 
> Good Luck!




Thanks for the heads up, but I'm really not worried about it. I stand on the bracing all the time, rock back and forth, and basically put it through hell to make sure this mod will hold up. Its not budging even a little, so with plywood on top I should have no problems at all. I do understand where you're coming from though, because the brackets don't look very robust, but they get the job done for sure.


----------



## Dave11

I thought I would mention it because I have seen some ties that were meant for holding the wood in place but not for supporting load.

Looking at the mods on this site, it seems like most people either go all wood or all aluminum on the deck frame. I think a good option for deck framing would be a combination of aluminum and wood. Specifically, the aluminum would be used on longer spans and the added stiffness would require less under supports such as those connected to the ribs of the boat. Only spans of 48" or would probably require one single under support if you were using 2x2-1/8" square tube. For instance, the span between my bow seat and front bench seat is only 42" in my Lowe 1448. 

Then 2x4's could be used to create the cross supports to connect the aluminum supports. If the spans of the cross supports are 24" or less, you would be fine. On most jons, you could build a deck without having to attach a single support to the floor.

To me the benefits would be easier assembly and the extra expense of the aluminum would be offset partially by the less wood and connectors required. Also, you would be saving on weight. In the end, I don't think the cost would be that different.

You have a pretty big boat, so I am not saying this is the best option for you, but it might work for someone with a 1236,1436,1448, 1542, etc.

Just thinking out loud


----------



## dyeguy1212

Dave11 said:


> I thought I would mention it because I have seen some ties that were meant for holding the wood in place but not for supporting load.
> 
> Looking at the mods on this site, it seems like most people either go all wood or all aluminum on the deck frame. I think a good option for deck framing would be a combination of aluminum and wood. Specifically, the aluminum would be used on longer spans and the added stiffness would require less under supports such as those connected to the ribs of the boat. Only spans of 48" or would probably require one single under support if you were using 2x2-1/8" square tube. For instance, the span between my bow seat and front bench seat is only 42" in my Lowe 1448.
> 
> Then 2x4's could be used to create the cross supports to connect the aluminum supports. If the spans of the cross supports are 24" or less, you would be fine. On most jons, you could build a deck without having to attach a single support to the floor.
> 
> To me the benefits would be easier assembly and the extra expense of the aluminum would be offset partially by the less wood and connectors required. Also, you would be saving on weight. In the end, I don't think the cost would be that different.
> 
> You have a pretty big boat, so I am not saying this is the best option for you, but it might work for someone with a 1236,1436,1448, 1542, etc.
> 
> Just thinking out loud




Sounds like you really ought to do a mod and put it on this site! If you ask me, there are way too may cookie-cutter boats, with everybody doing the exact same thing, listening to the exact same people's opinions. I like the idea of mixing support types, for the reasons you mentioned, plus it would cut down on the cost of going all-aluminum.


----------



## dyeguy1212

disregard... double post


----------



## dearl

Not to mention the price of all aluminum is outrageous, dygye looks like your decks would stand up against a hurricane if need be, looks good.


----------



## Dave11

dearl said:


> Not to mention the price of all aluminum is outrageous, dygye looks like your decks would stand up against a hurricane if need be, looks good.



I was not saying that his layout would not hold, I was only suggedting to pay mind to the loads on the brackets. I did not realize that he was using galvanized steel brackets, I thought they were aluminum at first.

If you do some searching, you can find some aluminum for a reasonable price (is it the price of wood...no). My point was if you are smart about your sizing and support structure, you can minimize your material and hence cost and maybe use aluminum even if you are on a budget. For instance, a lot of people who have built aluminum framed decks have used either thin angle or 1.5" square tube. This kind of structure would still require a significant amount of under and cross supports. However, if you spent a little more money on a bigger cross section, I think you could build a deck with a lot less material. That is why I suggested an optimum method for those of us on a budget might be a hybrid wood/aluminum deck.


----------



## dyeguy1212

dearl said:


> Not to mention the price of all aluminum is outrageous, dygye looks like your decks would stand up against a hurricane if need be, looks good.



Thanks, I appreciate it. Hopefully the thompsons will hold up its end of the deal and make it last a long time.



I got the first coat on everything today, and reassembled it. I'm going to do a second coat tomorrow morning with everything in place. Soaked it all pretty good, and it dried within 4 or 5 hours with the propane heater going. The combo of burning propane and thompson's spread across such a huge surface area really made for a wicked fume concoction.. its still a wonder the garage didn't go up... managed to keep it pretty warm, very similar to the 71 degree house.


I've been doing some thinking, and I may be able to put a large bead of caulk-type-substance around the inside edges of the hull, before putting the decks on. This would keep water from seeping down below, possibly screwing with the bracing. I really don't care if I have to replace a 1/2" sheet of plywood every 3 years, but I want the bracing to last a long time. But considering all bracing is up off the floor (except two non-load bearing boards), I don't foresee any issues...


But chances are I'll turn around and sell this one just as fast as I did the last one, and start another project :roll:


----------



## Froggy

You just removed the decking and spray'd it, very clever =D> old Fred Bear be proud of you....dont you have the ribs sitting on the bracings? I would not worry about water.


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## dyeguy1212

Froggy said:


> You just removed the decking and spray'd it, very clever =D> old Fred Bear be proud of you....dont you have the ribs sitting on the bracings? I would not worry about water.




Brushed it on actually. Btw, if anyone ever considered using thompsons's with the cedar tint, DON'T. Its ugly and orange lol.

Ribs sitting on the bracings? In my mind, its the other way around. The ribs are the factory installed parts that go across the bottom and sides. But I get what you're saying, and yes. :lol:


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## Johnny5

I recently bought a boat that somebody caulk beaded the sides and drilled holes in the back corners of the floors to let the water out. Looks good but any mud or silt that gets in the boat from some of the river boat ramps or duck hunting just clogs em right up


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## dyeguy1212

I'm putting in two 2" drains in the cockpit, so I don't think I have to worry about clogs (hopefully).


I don't plan to caulk the decks in, just caulk and let dry before putting the decks in, to make a gasket (type thing).


----------



## Johnny5

Sounds good, i just got that 1442 monarck i was talking about and the back floor feels great for standing and fishing but the front on the other hand feels kinda tippy where the floor tapers upward to the bow/front. I'm torn between tearing out the front and doing a small deck or leaving it open for duck hunting (200 decoys) see if i had that depth finder you just bought from bugpac id go ahead and make it a full blown bass'n machine


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## dyeguy1212

Johnny5 said:


> Sounds good, i just got that 1442 monarck i was talking about and the back floor feels great for standing and fishing but the front on the other hand feels kinda tippy where the floor tapers upward to the bow/front. I'm torn between tearing out the front and doing a small deck or leaving it open for duck hunting (200 decoys) see if i had that depth finder you just bought from bugpac id go ahead and make it a full blown bass'n machine




If I duck hunted, I'd be really torn. Luckily (or unluckily) no one ever taught me, so this will be a bass fishing rig only. However, I am addicted to bowhunting, hence the camo going on the outside. Gotta keep it redneck one way or another..






In other news, I hit up the bps fishing classic this morning when it opened. Got a proseat for 10 bucks, and its really high quality. The exact size and color I wanted, so I'm pretty happy. I decided to ruin these savings with a $150 quantum reel though... and I get paid Monday so I'll be headed back for more stuff! They have seat bases on sale, so I need to pick up another one. Other than that, its all fishing stuff going in the cart.. I'm ready for summer..


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## lswoody

A good lookin rig you got there.


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## dyeguy1212

Sorry about the lack of pics, but the camera is dead. Boats going back outside, and becoming a weekend project from now on. Progress should be pretty quick once I get the electrical run, and get the decks cut out.


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## dyeguy1212

Camo stencil came today.. plenty big enough and pretty high quality.. I guess it was worth the 35 bucks..


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## Nussy

For a guy who complains about no pics......Where the hell are the pics????


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## dyeguy1212

pretty hypocritical, right?


Problem is, my college budget is so tight I can't squeeze in a pack of AA batteries until payday..


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## Troutman3000

Where did you buy your switch board?


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## dyeguy1212

I don't remember.. it was months and months ago. I'd have to guess wholesale marine or iboats though


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## mangelcc

What did you use for a template to cut out your front deck????


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## dyeguy1212

ummm I didn't get that far yet... :lol:


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## Troutman3000

dyeguy1212 said:


> I don't remember.. it was months and months ago. I'd have to guess wholesale marine or iboats though




Thanks..........


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## dyeguy1212

hey no problem man


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## dyeguy1212

Heres some of the long-awaited pics... I've been opening it up and letting it air out on these nice days, cause this thompson's still really smells bad. I still haven't made a decision on the rear deck design, so its going to have to wait I guess. If all goes well, the decks will be cut and put in place, electrical will be run, and livewell will all be hooked up this weekend. Carpet may have to wait until the next paycheck, but we'll see. I also need to get a tiny tach ordered.

I also found out that my trailer needs some work. Its the type that has a hinge for shallow launching, and its flexing pretty bad at the hinge and leaning to one side (probably from me climbing in and out while working on it). Moral of the story, block up the tongue of the trailer when doing extensive work to avoid messing up the weak points. I plan to solve the issue with some massive bolts to keep it simple.


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## mangelcc

looking good!!!!!!!!!!!


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## Froggy

That is going to be a sweet deck!


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## Johnny5

I saw you were looking for some stencils. Check out this threadhttps://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=3034&hilit=CAMO+STENCIL&start=50


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## dyeguy1212

Johnny5 said:


> I saw you were looking for some stencils. Check out this threadhttps://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=3034&hilit=CAMO+STENCIL&start=50


Already got some, but thanks


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## Ta5teless

Went to pick up my 18' 70" floor 90" Beam Crestliner for my project last week..... Wasnt the boat the seller portrayed it to be. Wasnt an 1870 it was am 1860 and beat to shit. Motor shifter was broke and glued back on. Boat was beat up. It had a duck blind on it as well and man was it cobbled together. 

The Seller couldnt tell me a thing about the boat, Speed, Draft, if the fishfinder worked, weight, etc... 

I figured it was either not his or stolen Hell the MC numbers were a different color than the picture. No one goes from nice cut vinyl letter to crap you piece together from Kmart..... 

Guess I keep looking!!! Good luck with your project!


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## Johnny5

Sounds like a craigslist buy! Decks coming along good dyeguy I know your ready to hit the water!


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## dyeguy1212

I'm going to get the plywood tomorrow... Need to figure out how the hell to do it, considering I have no pickup.


Had to spend some time on the car, cause the fuel pump went in my jimmy... just replaced it 3 months ago, and 2 months before that. Luckily last time around I got one with a warranty, so I had to spend some time doing that. I made the executive decision to cut an access hole in the cargo area though, because dropping the 50+ pound gas tank every time couldn't be more difficult, especially with gas in it.

Now I need to figure out whats making it go. I replaced the fuel filter last time I changed pumps, so its gotta be some other issue. Or maybe its the cheap japanese made pumps I'm buying, instead of the 350 dollar GM-made one....


----------



## CHILIDWG

Boat is looking great man!!! Keep up the good work. You will be slayin them in no time!!


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## dyeguy1212

Spent a few hours getting my trailer where it needs to be. Stills needs some new bunks, but that can wait until summer.


I ended up having to move the bow stop around, and put the winch under it. Most setups have the winch on top, but I'm really liking it underneath. It really helps to lock the bow down into the bow stop, plus the strap is in more of a straight line, as opposed to "pulleying" off of the rolling bow stop. I'll have to post up some pics tomorrow.

It also moved the boat back a little, so the bunks aren;t exposed when the boat is on them. This way, I'm not hacking off a fish finder transducer, or the soon-to-be trim tabs [-o< 


Going to HD tomorrow to get the plywood and the stuff to secure it. The plan is to get most of it cut out tomorrow, put in place, cut hatches, and get a coat of water sealer on it. Then Sunday I'll throw another coat on, and figure out what route I'm going for carpet. Hopefully it ends up being as warm as they say its going to be, because I'm not about to stink up the garage and house again, so it HAS to be done outside this time around....


----------



## russ010

haha... I sealed my wood outside before I left, then moved them back in the garage a couple hours later - let's just say I'm glad Tiffany is out of town, and I'm out of town because that stain has some strong fumes.

I ended up getting my wood at Lowes.. HD had a lot of warped wood, my guess is from the shotty weather we've been having.


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## Nussy

Hey when you pickup the plywood, get some batteries for your camera!! :LOL2:


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## Henry Hefner

Nussy said:


> Hey when you pickup the plywood, get some batteries for your camera!! :LOL2:



:LOL22:


----------



## CrewCabMax

With moving the boat back some, make sure it isnt too much. You want the bunks to support all the way to the transom, if not past it. Having your bunks stick out past the transom is good. Your hull can get a hook in it if not. Just be careful, and make sure your transom is supported on the bunks.

Oh ya, and what is it you ALWAYS say....

PICS OR IT DIDNT HAPPEN! :mrgreen: :mrgreen: =D>


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## dyeguy1212

I can't have the bunks extend past the transom.. like I said it will take off a transducer or trim tab.


Got a lot of work done today. Went to HD and got 4 sheets of 19/32" exterior grade pine plywood, for around 20 bucks a sheet. Also got some longer livewell tubing, and some odds and ends.

It was a surprisingly difficult decking job to do. I measured every 6 inches lengthwise, then measured the width of the boat, and got a decent cut.


Looks like I'm going to have to hit the livewell with the grinder, because the lip around it isnt in square. Great craftsmanship, fishmatepro. You guys are worthless.


I redid the bracing for the front storage area and got the plywood cut and it turned out good. I still have to cut the hole for the recessed TM tray, and then it should be ready for watersealing. While that's drying, I'm going to start on the cockpit. If progress is as slow as it was today, the electrical and plumbing will be waiting a while. Plus I can't secure any of the decking until its warm enough to apply nonskid paint to the gunwales.

Hurry up and wait...


----------



## Nussy

The question is....is it level on the trailer or level in the water??? I thought for days on that question, then just decided to wing it. :LOL2: Glad to see some pics. Looks sweet!!!


----------



## dyeguy1212

I want it level on the trailer, because I used the tops of the benches as a reference for level. That way it would atleast appear to be level (or so I thought). I didn't even bother worrying about it being level in the water, because its only going to be a few degrees off, if at all. I can correct that by moving the 3 batteries around.


----------



## sturdi87

Nussy said:


> The question is....is it level on the trailer or level in the water??? I thought for days on that question, then just decided to wing it. :LOL2: Glad to see some pics. Looks sweet!!!



I agree, or I would say when I do mine I will be concerned with _straight_ rather than _level_. Level is not always good, I learned that the hard way on a mission trip to appalacia (poorest area in the country) to do a mission project, working on a woman's house. Well we were putting siding on and started at the bottom leveled it up and worked our way up, since the house was not level (I'm talking the rear of the house was ten inches lower than the front, we had all kinds of problems fitting the siding around doors, windows, etc, because they were all crooked with the house. 

But looks good, good work, I like your boat a lot; sounds like you got a great deal on it too.


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## Johnny5

Looks great coming along nice... =D> The fuel pump keeps going out on our chevy 1500 here at work to... 3rd times a charm


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## Froggy

Very nice.


----------



## dyeguy1212

Thanks for the kind words, guys.


I got up early and threw the second coat of water sealer on the decks before I headed out for the day. Its supposed to be warm all week but quite a bit of rain, so it sounds like I'll be waiting until I can get the boat in the garage for the weekend. I still have quite a bit of cutting to do before I'm ready to put the decks in place, plus I need to run the wiring, make a console, carpet it all, and hook up the livewell... Man this is one heck of a project.. #-o


----------



## cathunter21

Yea it is a big project. but your doing an awesome job. keep up with the pictures im enjoying watching your pprogress


----------



## koulaid

Nice build! Just started on my shallow V, then i heard its gong to rain all week. Nice to meet someone from MI too.


----------



## dyeguy1212

koulaid said:


> Nice build! Just started on my shallow V, then i heard its gong to rain all week. Nice to meet someone from MI too.




Thanks! Glad to have you on board.

Check out this thread:
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=12151&hilit=michigan

There are only a few michiganders, but hopefully we can get enough support for a few bragging rights tournaments this summer!


----------



## dyeguy1212

61 degrees and cloudy tomorrow.. getting up for my 8am class, then skipping the rest to work on the rig. Hoping to get the front deck finalized and get the cockpit deck cut out.


----------



## dyeguy1212

Got quite a bit done yesterday, even though it didn't feel like it. Got the recessed TM tray cut out of the main deck, got the storage space floor put it, got the cockpit floor cut out and put on one coat of sealer, tied up some odds and ends, and fabbed majority of the console.

I've spent a lot of time planning the console, but I'm not sure if I'll change it some more. I've combined the old console with some info I got from dearl here on TB, and this is what I've come out with. Its a lot taller than the old one, a bit wider, and a lot heavier :lol: Its going to sit about 6 inches to the left of the starboard side, so that there is space for rod tips. I didn't want my rods to be on the left side of the boat, because they would have to sit pretty far back to avoid the trolling motor when stowed, and I don't want any passengers accidentally smashing them. With the rods sitting on the left, I can keep an eye on them when moving, and they're a lot less likely to get snapped.

I may also put a small "box" to the left of the console for the fishfinder to sit on, but I'm not sure. I like a clean console top, but I'm still weighing the options. I made the top of it perfect width to accept a Cabelas windshield, but thats a ways down the road. 90 bucks for a sticker collector is out of the question at this point.

I'm at a crossroads at this point. I need to paint the gunwales with nonskid prior to putting the decks in, but its been too cold and rainy, and I don't have the money to blow on the paint right now. I'm thinking about going and buying the carpet, getting everything fitting and ready to be secured, and then wait for a few warm days to get the paint on. I also need to get the electrical run, but that depends on the finishing of the console, and the console depends on me finishing the decks... (BOOM! HEAD EXPLOSION).


I'll keep you guys updated as to whats going on... :roll:


----------



## dyeguy1212

Oh, I forgot to mention that coolest part! I'm going to put a piano hinge on the non-steeringwheel side of the console, on the top. That way, I can flip the lid and access the back of the switch panel if need be. If all goes to plan, I might be able to use it as a glove box for registration, licenses, etc.


----------



## russ010

looks good man! I think you've got the right idea with the carpeting of the console - and the piano hinge is a good idea too because it's amazing how you usually never think of that until you've already got it carpeted


----------



## dyeguy1212

Thanks russ



So after driving to two different home depots and one lowes, about 3 hours round trip, I came home with carpet today. Long story short, I went to one HD to price carpet, then to lowes. At lowes I decided I wanted to go with the 6x8" pre cut carpet (same stuff, but not on a 12' roll) but lowes only had charcoal, and I wanted light grey. So I went back to the original Home Depot, because I had seen the lighter color at a different home depot. Turns out they didnt have any of the pre cut out stuff.

Soooooo I drove to the HD closest to my house, and of course they had exactly what I wanted, for 2 bucks cheaper than lowes.


So all in all I ended up with 4 rolls of 6x8" indoor/outdoor carpet @17.xx per roll.


I also got some spray paint, because I decided I can't really afford the nonskid for the gunwales right now. Good ol rustoleum will get it done. All 3 places I went to didn;t have self etching primer though. I've literally never seen it anywhere in MI other than bass pro. Any auto parts store, hardware store (family owned or chain store), and any supermarket has never had it. I'll probably end up having to buy the stuff from BPS, which sucks because I'll have to brush it on.


----------



## phozzy

Looking real good, seems like your on a good pace to finish for spring fishing, I know I worked overtime on mine to get her ready, a few nice days (forced me) to take her out and fish, Im worried that when the weather is warm enough to paint her I won't want to take her out of commision.


----------



## Henry Hefner

dyeguy1212 said:


> All 3 places I went to didn;t have self etching primer though. I've literally never seen it anywhere in MI other than bass pro. Any auto parts store, hardware store (family owned or chain store), and any supermarket has never had it. I'll probably end up having to buy the stuff from BPS, which sucks because I'll have to brush it on.



Auto Zone carries it, and if your store doesn't have it, you can order it online and pick it up at your local store.

https://tinyurl.com/y9gbj5m


----------



## dyeguy1212

Thanks for the link. I'll have to have them order it, because they don't carry it. I've been in there a few times in the past month and checked every time to see if they got anything new, or had any sales.


----------



## dyeguy1212

Okay I made some progress on this rainy Saturday...

I fitted the front part of the deck and screwed it down, drilled the holes for the TM plug and the bow lights (as you'll see from the carpet pics, I put the TM plug offset to the left to keep the deck free.. I tend to put a lot of my baits in trees and on docks, so I need all the deck space I can get :roll: ). After drilling those holes, I cut a 2x6 down that the trolling motor will sit on, and positioned it to get a feel for how its going to look. I then took everything off, and carpeted it.

I drilled the holes for the livewell, including the intake at the transom, overflow and drain on the right side. I took my time and made it count, because I'd be pretty pissed at myself if I made a bad hole in the hull. But everything went well, and its ready for 5200 when it warms up a bit. The livewell was put in place and I drilled holes for the carriage bolts that will secure it. I'm going to drill one more on each side inbetween the two I already drilled, because I want it to be on lock down, so to speak.

I also got the rest of the plumbing put together for the livewell, giving it a 90 degree turn so that it makes a smooth transition to the spray bar without having huge loops in the hosing. As you'll see in the pics, the intake is just ziptied in right now, because they really don't give you a way to secure it if you're not putting it through the hull. To be honest, that's probably the way it will stay.

I spent the rest of the night shopvacing everywhere I could, to get the metal shavings and saw dust out. I'm not expecting this bilge pump motor to last very long :roll: 


Like I said, still waiting on some warm weather to paint the gunwales, then the decks can be carpeted and put in place. I've decided against the carriage bolt idea for securing them, and I'm going to use teks lath screws like I did on my last mod. They almost have a finishing washer look to them, plus they're chrome so it'll flow with the livewell. I'm just looking to make it easy on myself, because the carriage bolts were fixin to give me a headache.

After the decks are secured, the console can be put in, along with the switch panel and wiring. After that, she's ready to fish! I'm going to take my time putting in the back deck and walls, because I need to allocate some funds for more tackle of tournament season. Plus I spend most of the time fishing by myself, so whats the rush?


----------



## dyeguy1212

Went to autozone and had them order me some self-etching primer. Sure beats paying for shipping myself..


I also found out they sell seafoam there.. Looking forward to giving that a try. The lakes are thawing out at a pretty fast rate.. I'm expecting to be able to fish (in someone else's boat) by next weekend. Hopefully mine will be fishable by next monday.


----------



## russ010

looking good man... you liking that livewell yet??? :mrgreen:


----------



## dyeguy1212

I hate to say its not growing on me. I still have to grind down the right side of the lip that sits on the deck, because its about 3/4" longer on the latch side.


I'm still trying to figure out a way to paint the diamond plate and have it actually last. I really don't see a cheap way of doing it though.


----------



## russ010

powder coat man... it's the only thing that I know of. You might be able to find a body shop or something to do it for you though.


----------



## dyeguy1212

Yeah I'll have to do some shopping around.. all I know is that the chrome is going to give me welders flash or something by noon every day :lol:


----------



## RBuffordTJ

I love what you have done with that livewell and I agree with Russ. Powdercoat.

Bufford in Orlando


----------



## Froggy

You are doing real good man! living above the mason dixon line does have one disadvantage, cant paint in the winter, that blows. 3 hours round trip for 2 HD's and one Lowes? Man, I can hit a half dozen Hd's and 3 or 4 lowes in that time!!!


----------



## dyeguy1212

Yeah it was a heck of a trip :roll: 


Its supposed to get warmer this week, with Friday being the warmest. I'm hoping to prime Thursday and paint Friday, meaning I should be able to get the decks in and carpeted this weekend. First I need to find some cheap painters tape...


----------



## Quackrstackr

Couldn't you just carpet the lid?


----------



## dyeguy1212

Thats what I originally planned on doing prior to the diamond plate, but there isn't much of a gap, and the texture pokes through the crappy home depot carpet.


----------



## dyeguy1212

Alright I got some priming done today, along with epoxying some holes, 5200ing the thru hulls (awesome verb creation), and I put in the bluewater LED's in the livewell. I'll post pics when the rest of the electrical is complete, for the full effect.

All systems go for this weekend. I'm hoping to have the decks in and carpeted by sunday, along with atleast one wall, because I need something to mount the throttle to. Didn't think about that before #-o


----------



## russ010

what color LEDs did you put in the livewell?


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## dyeguy1212

red... great minds think alike

I ordered them when there was that mini sale a month or so ago. Got two free 4 led strips in red too.. Ones going under my TM pedal to light the ring around the "go" button, and the other is going in the storage area under the front deck.

I can't believe how bright they are.. and as usual, the price was right.


----------



## dyeguy1212

Oh russ, I forgot to mention... a rivet came off my livewell for no apparent reason.. really.. it was just laying on the floor when I was installing the lights. And of course, it left a little hole to leak water... #-o Luckily I already had the 5200 out...


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## russ010

dang man.. you really should have sent that thing back in when you knew it wasn't what you ordered.


----------



## PhilM

Looking good. :mrgreen: I do have a question though, where do you get the 5200 from


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## dyeguy1212

Don't get me started... [-X 



What goes around comes around.. I'm just hoping it comes around in the form of a business failure... :twisted:


Phil, I got the 5200 from Home Depot. Seems to be the lowest price around.


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## PhilM

Thanks 8)


----------



## dyeguy1212

By the way, the label says once its opened it will cure (in the tube) in 48 hours. I don't know how accurate that is, but I'm sure going to test it. I'm really hoping mine will last until the weekend when I finish the rest of my plumbing


----------



## Henry Hefner

dyeguy1212 said:


> By the way, the label says once its opened it will cure (in the tube) in 48 hours. I don't know how accurate that is, but I'm sure going to test it. I'm really hoping mine will last until the weekend when I finish the rest of my plumbing



Use some stretchy electrical tape to seal the open end. I've never tried it with 5200, but I've gotten some pretty long life from silicone that way. Oh, first stick a long screw into the end, before taping. The screw can help you pull the cured plug of caulk out when you are ready to use it again.


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## dyeguy1212

I'll give it a try.. the screw on cap seems to be air tight, but you never know.

Thanks for the tip


----------



## russ010

I left one of mine open.. just cut the tip off and used it again. It took FOREVER for that stuff to set the second time I used it... but it finally did. I don't know how it will hold up, but I only used it to fill the holes where I put the livewell lights through the sides. I didn't want to open a new tube just for that.


----------



## dyeguy1212

The stuff says it takes 7 days to cure... 7 days?! I could do some research and make my own formula in my basement with that kind of time... :roll: 

I don't get how the stuff in the tube will cure in 48 hours when the stuff exposed to the air takes 7 days :lol:


----------



## dyeguy1212

Oh.. some more news I forgot to mention.

The rustoleum spray bombs of camo kahki is the same color the boat is painted now. I think thats why I have such a chalk appearance below the waterline.. the guy painted it with that and then left it in the water all summer last year.

Considering my budget, I'm just going to sand the crap off and spray it down again prior to applying the camo stencil. That way I can touch if up easily and cheaply, because I loooove to ram into stuff.. on accident...


----------



## dyeguy1212

Well today just keeps getting worse... I'll skip to the part you guys care about... its supposed to rain/snow all weekend, and the garage is occupied by my brothers car that needs a new water pump. Now I'm sort of limited as to what I can get done.. which is basically anything I can do in the basement.

I carpeted majority of the console tonight. Need to cut the part the steering wheel will be mounted on, which will be two 1/2" pieces stacked on top of each other, but will only appear to be 1/2" thick wen mounted. I'll post pics to explain the idea after I get it done.

Here are a couple pics: (Note the top part that the fishfinder is sitting on is actually the bottom part of the front (so it will span from the bottom and middle 2x2's. I just put it on top to get a better feel of what it'll look like.


----------



## dyeguy1212

Snow held off until right now, so I got a bit done. I got the bow light and trolling motor plug wired and tested, and it all worked well.

Tied up some odds and ends that I've been meaning to do, like the carpeting pictured. I planned out the carpet job in my head, and this section of the recessed trolling motor tray would have to be carpeted before carpeting the deck, so I got that done. Sort of tricky getting it around the 2x4's, but it turned out good.


Right now I have the front deck in my basment, along with the walls of the dry storage, all waiting to be carpeted. That way the glue will dry properly, and I can stop freezing my ass off.


----------



## RStewart

nice job so far. or future reference, walmart here carries self etching primer in the automotive section, not the paint section.


----------



## dyeguy1212

Thanks... problem is.. I'm in the one town in America that has a Walmart over 45 minutes away :lol:


----------



## RStewart

dyeguy1212 said:


> Thanks... problem is.. I'm in the one town in America that has a Walmart over 45 minutes away :lol:



thats a good problem to have. where there is a walmart comes traffic, confusion and chaos.


----------



## MeanMouth

This is what I used today. Here's a picture of what it looks like (this place is selling it in a box of 6)

https://www.hardwareworld.com/Sp-Self-Etch-Primer-pC43ZNV.aspx


----------



## dyeguy1212

I used the same stuff. Took my a full can to done the front half of the gunwales... didn't go half as far as I had hoped.

They stuff works wonders though.. using a 4" grinder to take off that nonskid paint left some wicked gashes in the aluminum (which look pretty cool when painted) and two coats of primer really flattened it out.


----------



## MeanMouth

dyeguy1212 said:


> I used the same stuff. Took my a full can to done the front half of the gunwales... didn't go half as far as I had hoped.
> 
> They stuff works wonders though.. using a 4" grinder to take off that nonskid paint left some wicked gashes in the aluminum (which look pretty cool when painted) and two coats of primer really flattened it out.


Yeah, I was impressed with the quality, but just like you said, it doesn't go too far.


----------



## dyeguy1212

Here's a teaser to the decking I got done today... still need to get some washers to secure the front pedestal mount, and still need to put the hatches in.

I'll post more when I make some progress


----------



## RStewart

nice work =D>


----------



## Troutman3000

Looks great man.


----------



## Brine

Looking real good!


----------



## Truckmechanic

Doing a awesome job.


----------



## MeanMouth

Lookin nice! =D>


----------



## dyeguy1212

Tip of the day:


Use toggle bolts for securing stuff when you can't get under the deck. I forgot that I wanted to mount them trolling motor prior to putting on the decks, so that I could bolt from underneath.

However, using some 1/4" toggle bolts should solve the problem.

I also plan to replace the lag screws that hold the seat bases down with toggle bolts as well. It'll be a pain if I ever have to remove them, because the nut will fall to the bottom of the boat, but at least I'll know they aren't going anywhere once secured.

The lag screws seem really solid and hold up to me shifting my weight pretty hard, but I'd sleep easier knowing theres 6 bolts under me when going through chop.


----------



## dyeguy1212

Alright, here's the mess of up to date pictures.. taken minutes ago. Check the captions with each picture, because narrating them all in on paragraph would get lengthy. The long and short of it is, all electrical is done except the anchor light and two led strips up front. To be able to fish this weekend I'm going to get the hatches put it, get a hatch on the console, and install the TM in the next couple days. Walls are going to wait a week or so, so I'm just going to mount the throttle to a 2x6.

Any questions, let me know.


----------



## dyeguy1212

Couple more


----------



## Nussy

Looks Awesome!!!


----------



## dyeguy1212

Thanks!


The only thing I'd change so far is the console.. too much of a box from the front.. but I'm planning on using it as a back stop for my tacke bag (possibly even bungee cording it to it) so I guess it won't matter much.


----------



## MeanMouth

Looking great DyeGuy! Keep it up, the boat looks clean!


----------



## Truckmechanic

You have done a awesome job!!


----------



## PhilM

Man this looks great, =D>


----------



## Froggy

Very nice! you could make an aerodinamic front for the console like 9 inches in front of lower board, meet the top flush like a triangle storage, carpet another color, or aliminum kick plate material, that be cool. put your PFD in there. Get that speed look to it.


----------



## Troutman3000

good idea froggy!


----------



## russ010

hey man with your decks all the way up to the gunwales, you might wanna think about getting some rod savers... you don't know how many expensive rods I've lost sitting up there like that.

These are what I use - https://www.rodsaver.com/04_rodsaver/prs.html


----------



## Troutman3000

That thing is a beast.


----------



## dyeguy1212

russ010 said:


> hey man with your decks all the way up to the gunwales, you might wanna think about getting some rod savers... you don't know how many expensive rods I've lost sitting up there like that.
> 
> These are what I use - https://www.rodsaver.com/04_rodsaver/prs.html



Got a set waiting to be installed actually... got the stretch velcro style. I might put another set of the port side too, if the rods will clear the trolling motor.

I actually put my most used 7 rods on the deck and almost installed the rodsavers last night, but I'm going to play around with the layout a bit before I start drilling holes.

You've definitely got the right idea though.. I'm going to have to keep those things locked down at all time because its going to be really easy to kick if over board... I need a bigger boat already :lol: 


Thanks for the compliments guys


----------



## Rat

Nice work! It's the little things like the switch panel and LEDs that really set it apart. People will chase you down to ask about it!


----------



## Anonymous

That's a sharp looking boat! 

You've put some hard work / time into it, and it shows.


----------



## dyeguy1212

Got the hatches put in.. I decided not to hinge the one next to the livewell because its really never going to be opened.

One of the front hatches turned out good (but tight) and the other has gaps in two corners. It'll have to do for this weekend, cause I'm ready to fish. Gotta be honest, I'm ready for this project to be done with so I can spend my time on the water, not in the garage...


I'm also starting to rethink the console hinge idea... seems good on paper, but once I realized I'd need to use something to keep it shut, the idea lost its sparkle. I'd rather have a clean looking console than one that can hole a small amount of crap. I'll find somewhere else to keep it...


----------



## phxbuckeye

thats a really good tip about the toggle bolts! thanks a ton, i will probably be using them for mounting my seats. would you suggest them for securing my plywood to the top of my bench seats for my deck or something else? thanks again


----------



## countryboy210

WOW !

That's A Boat You Can Be Very Proud Of. =D>

We Need To See Pics Of It On The Water Next. :USA1:


----------



## Loggerhead Mike

look'n good


----------



## Froggy




----------



## dyeguy1212

Thanks froggy, I'm weighing the options and playing in paint right now. I'm sort of tempted to leave it how it is, and rebuild it later in the summer.


Took her out for the first time with the new mods, and everything went great.. well other than my lucky hat blowing off (I forgot how fast this boat is :shock, the frozen hand from retrieving a snagged lure from a branch, and the treble hook in the hand from said lure. On the bright side, the hat floats, and my hand was numb enough to barely feel it.


It was a balmy 35 today, cold enough to see your breath, and have ice form on my line guides  Going back out tomorrow morning, after the temps dip to 29 tonight... should be interesting.


Motor fired right up, and actually ran better than last year.. go figure. Had no issues starting it up, and it was turn key the rest of the day!


I have a video, but thats the one thing I don't know how to post. I'm assuming I'll have to upload it to youtube.


In the meantime, here are some pictures. Sorry I'm not holding a fish in any of them.. had no luck. Got one short hit on a lipless, missed her, but she followed it almost to the surface of the water, at a pretty fast pace. She wanted it, but wasn't willing to commit. Hopefully tomorrow will be better. I'm going to try dragging a jig for a while, and once I get bored with that I'm going to do some cranking. Have to find the holes by memory, cause the fishfinder isn't installed yet..


----------



## dyeguy1212

phxbuckeye said:


> thats a really good tip about the toggle bolts! thanks a ton, i will probably be using them for mounting my seats. would you suggest them for securing my plywood to the top of my bench seats for my deck or something else? thanks again




I'd be careful, because the nut portion needs something to grip, and the sheet metal doesn't do it at all. I only got 1/3 toggle bolts to tighten all the way down in the very front where there is sheet metal underneath. I got them tight, but not cranked down. But for securing stuff to plywood, they work well because the nut portion digs into the wood.


----------



## Doug

The mods look great. Hope you get it dirty with some fish slime soon  .

Doug


----------



## dyeguy1212

I tried this morning... 29 degrees out lol... I got 3 backlashes do to frozen line guides.. no fish but a lot of hilarious memories


----------



## dyeguy1212

Alright I finally got a video of the hole shot. Sorry about the crappy resolution.. it was taken with a digital camera. And sorry about the strap and lens cover waving around in majority of the shots... didn't realize it until I got home. And no it doesn't take that long to get on plane, I was just steering towards the right a bit. Tough to drive, record, and turn in the seat at the same time :lol: 

Enjoy,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ohiBCuINEf0


----------



## Brine

Nice... Looks like that scoots you around at a good clip. =D>


----------



## SnowmanJon

man nice work with the boat. Like the vid....appears that the tabs do you right.

JON


----------



## RStewart

very sweet. that thing really moves.


----------



## dyeguy1212

SnowmanJon said:


> man nice work with the boat. Like the vid....appears that the tabs do you right.
> 
> JON



I actually haven't got them yet. I'm getting a bit of bow rise, but its not too bad. I'm going to wait until after I install the back decks before I decide if I really need them. It doesn't take much time to get on plane, and I sort of like the feeling of the back end dropping down before you launch out of the hole 8)


----------



## Troutman3000

Very Nice Man.


----------



## MeanMouth

Looks great Dyeguy! Nice work.


----------



## Lawdog

Nice work. =D>


----------



## dyeguy1212

Thanks fellas


----------



## dyeguy1212

Tore into the hubs for the first time since I got the boat. The bearing buddies sure did their job. There was water on the outside of the seal, but none inside, meaning no rust. Everything was in decent order, although I'd like to replace the bearings (or possibly the entire hub) some time this summer.

Loaded them back up with grease, and hopefully they'll be good to go. I've been getting in a good amount of fishing since I got the front decks done, meaning I haven't gotten much done on the boat. However, there is rain in the forecast for most of the week, so its a good time to stay in the garage and get some stuff done. Exams are coming up quick, but that means summer is right around the corner. It'll be nice to have an infinite amount of time to work on the boat. I'm ready to be done with this darn thing.


----------



## UtahBassKicker

Nice job! I'm looking at the same panel switch and was wondering if it came with the fuses or if you did that on your own? How has it worked for you so far (well-constructed, solid, waterproof, etc.)? Once again nice job on this mod!


----------



## Troutman3000

dyeguy1212 said:


> Tore into the hubs for the first time since I got the boat. The bearing buddies sure did their job. There was water on the outside of the seal, but none inside, meaning no rust. Everything was in decent order, although I'd like to replace the bearings (or possibly the entire hub) some time this summer.
> 
> Loaded them back up with grease, and hopefully they'll be good to go. I've been getting in a good amount of fishing since I got the front decks done, meaning I haven't gotten much done on the boat. However, there is rain in the forecast for most of the week, so its a good time to stay in the garage and get some stuff done. Exams are coming up quick, but that means summer is right around the corner. It'll be nice to have an infinite amount of time to work on the boat. I'm ready to be done with this darn thing.




Where do you go to school?

I know what you mean, after a while you just want to be finished, but it seams like you never get done..


----------



## dyeguy1212

Oakland University


The switch panel has worked great. The fuses come with it, pre-wired. It has a seal around the edge, and each switch is covered, so I'd assume its perfectly waterproof. With that being said, I haven't tested it out yet.


----------



## Froggy

" infinite amount of time..." nice, wait till you get out of school! :lol:


----------



## UtahBassKicker

dyeguy1212 said:


> Oakland University
> 
> 
> The switch panel has worked great. The fuses come with it, pre-wired. It has a seal around the edge, and each switch is covered, so I'd assume its perfectly waterproof. With that being said, I haven't tested it out yet.



Thanks for the good info.


----------



## dyeguy1212

Froggy said:


> " infinite amount of time..." nice, wait till you get out of school! :lol:




Gotta be honest, I'm enjoying it while I can. I fully understand that the number of summer vacations I have left are limited, so I'm going to use them to the best of my ability. I'll be setting my alarm clock every day :lol:


----------



## dyeguy1212

Alright I finally got some time to get some work done! [-o< 


Got the fishfinder and GPS installed, and everything seems to work good. Hopefully the on-the-water tests will result in little transducer adjustments.


I also got the remainder of the wiring done, including the stern light, and my bluewaterled cargo light. I planned to use one light for my trolling motor pedal, but decided to put it in a little gap on the front deck to light my rodsaver area. Hopefully some of the light will reach the rest of the deck too.

The stern light was an absolute PITA. The wires came out of the plug (its ancient), and I'm not willing to pay for a new one. So I heated up the soldering gun, and melted away a bunch of plastic until I got to the metal tabs, and soldered the wires to them. Came out stronger than it was originally, and it works perfect. Gotta love the rig jobs.


I turned all the loose wires into a wiring harness with 3 rolls of electrical tape, and things are a lot more manageable now. I wish I have before and after pics, because it was a real headache before.

I also got my bilge and livewell pumps going again, because both hoses kinked up as they were exposed to the spring heat. I had to shorten them up and re-route them a bit to get everything back in order. I also epoxyed the bilge pump to the hull in the tansom area, because it was rattling around, and I had no idea how it's actually supposed to be mounted. It's not like I was going to screw it down into the hull and have screws hanging out of the bottom :roll: 


But now that all is said and done, the rear deck is ready to go in. I can't decide if I want to enclose it all, or leave it somewhat open. I like it how it is now because I can throw a ton of stuff back there, but I like bass-style back decks as well. 

Any input?




oh, and pics to come.


----------



## ClintP

Awesome job on the boat. No ideas for the aft deck.


----------



## rcgreat

Dyeguy, The boat looks great, Im insanely jealous. I love what you have done. 

Do you have a dollar total? I am Curious


----------



## dyeguy1212

Haven't kept track, and for good reason. I can't afford this boat anymore :roll: 


Its well over 400 (or maybe 500) in materials, between wood, carpet, wiring, pumps, lights, new tools I needed, hardware, and a ton of brackets. Those things add up at .50-1.00 a piece. Then add in the livewell that was well over 200, the TM over 300, batteries, spray paint, a fish finder, new water pump... ehhhh boy.


I'll regret all this when it comes time to start paying off student loans.


----------



## cyberflexx

Nice looking boat....

I have a ton of cash sunk into my mod as well.... The biggest chunk was the new 4stroke 9.8 that I purchased last summer. I asked the wife if I could sell it and get a Lowe Skorpion with a 9.9hp rigged to it instead and she quickly replied NO NO NO, No more boats!!! I just laughed at her...


----------



## dyeguy1212

Well its pouring rain, so its a good day to work in the garage. Talked to my uncle, and he has a slip on a lake down the street but hasn't put his boat in. So I volunteered to help him get his money's worth but putting my boat there so I can work on my trailer today.


So we're looking at:

Removing some of the old paint
New paint
New bunks, with carpet
Trying to sturdy up the winch post
Removing the guide-ons, because the rattle makes the whole rig look (sound) like garbage when trailering.


----------



## Zubes

Great job! That's a really nice looking boat. Everyone can tell you took your time and did it right. That $ amount doesn't seem to bad either. I can't wait to get working on mine, your boat gave me a lot of ideas.


----------



## dyeguy1212

Got quite a bit done so far. Took it out and powerwashed it, and knocked off a ton of loose paint. Them let it dry while and went to Home Depot and got a wire wheel, and 6 cans of flat black spray paint. I got that off brand stuff that's 98 cents a can, hopefully I won't regret it :lol:

Wirewheeled all the lose stuff (all over the darn thing), along with the stickers, and the pin striping on the fenders. Then took it back out and power washed it again, and its going to sit in the garage over night to try.

Tomorrow it gets new bunks, with new bunk carpeting (got a great deal at BPS) and a new paint job.


----------



## dyeguy1212

Here are some pics post-wirewheel


----------



## dyeguy1212

I was one bolt away from putting the bunks back on, and of course I broke it off :roll:

Here are a couple pics prior to putting everything back together. Hopefully I'll beat the rain and get everything done tomorrow


----------



## mangelcc

trailer looks great!!!! I need to get started on mine!


----------



## FishingRust

Dude your boat is sweet I just went through it all!


----------



## dyeguy1212

Thanks.. I'm hoping to finish it in the next week or so. I'm itching to sell it and buy something faster


----------



## FishingRust

Welcome what do you want to get a jetski ? they are faster


----------



## dyeguy1212

I actually do want a jetski, but I decided it would be a big money hole cause I'd want a nice one.


I'm actually looking for a small fiberglass bass boat, with a 100HP or bigger. I don't mind something under 18 feet, because I've gotten too used to the maneuverability of a small tinboat, but I want something faster for tournament fishing.

I figure I can sell this one and save up a couple grand and hopefully find a good deal on Craigslist. There was actually a guy wanted to downgrade and trade a bass boat for an aluminum and cash, so maybe I'll get lucky and it'll still be around somehow :roll: :lol:


----------



## FishingRust

Nice I love jetski's but they are the biggest money pits! my little jon uses 3 gallons a day and my jetski uses 5 every 1.5 hours! #-o


----------



## dyeguy1212

Got the trailer finished, but its thunder storming so I have to wait until tomorrow to pick up the boat from the lake.


FYI, do yourself a favor and don't buy BPS bunk carpet. I had to hit all the edges with a blow torch just to work with it, because it comes super frayed. I lost about 1/2" on each side just from opening the package :lol: 

All in all I think it came out pretty nice. The cheap paint got a torture test last night in the rain, and the water beads perfectly, with none under the paint. The multiple thin coats worked out perfect.

I haven't mounted the spare tire, but I painted that black as well. I can't decide if I should paint the wheels on the trailer black as well, or if that will just be overkill. Either way I need to get new wheels and possibly tires, but I haven't found them cheap enough just yet.


----------



## perchin

Dyeguy1212, you can get them wheels and tires at walmart's for $64.00. They come already mounted and bolt on ready. So for around $130 bucks you can throw on some brand new ones.


----------



## BaitCaster

Nice job.


----------



## dyeguy1212

perchin said:


> Dyeguy1212, you can get them wheels and tires at walmart's for $64.00. They come already mounted and bolt on ready. So for around $130 bucks you can throw on some brand new ones.



I've found them even cheaper at BPS, and they're galvanized. Gonna have to wait until after I buy my new jerkbait rod though..


----------



## dyeguy1212

I've been way overdue for pictures of the boat, so here are some new ones. Just got the painting done (except the bottom), and it was a trip from hell to find the paint that I already started painting with. I got the wires organized and "harnessed" with electrical tape, I got my battery tray and gas tank tray in, along with some other stuff.

Oh, and notice my new stainless steel prop! Cost me 250! Just kidding. I took a wire wheel to the aluminum one cause the paint was chipping, and I think I'm just going to leave it bare. Looks pretty sweet 8)

I also decided to fish an NBAA one-on-one tournament at the beginning of the month, so I'll be running with the big boys :shock:


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## dyeguy1212

By the way, I decided not to camo the boat. So if anyone wants the unused stencil, I'll have it up in the classifieds soon. Cost me 35 bucks to get, so I'll let it go pretty cheap.


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## dyeguy1212

Also, by the way, notice the TinBoats sticker on the back of the outboard.. I keep forgetting to take a close up of it.


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## CHILLWILLATX

That is sweet- do you plan on usung this boat for bow fishing?


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## dyeguy1212

If I ever by a rig to bowfish with.. I'm broke as f [-X k right now. I sat by the mail box waiting for my check today, and my damn boss can't seem to get it to me on time.. especially when I really need it. I show up to work on time EVERY day, and I haven't taken a day off since I started there.. and yet I'm the one with no money. /end rant

Anywho, I hope to, but its at the bottom of my priority list right now.


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## dyeguy1212

I still can't decide if I should redo the console. I just hate how awkward it looks. I'm thinking I might just take it off and try to cut it down without having to recarpet and rebuild the whole thing. Heres what it might look like... What do you guys think?


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## Bugpac

dyeguy1212 said:


> Also, by the way, notice the TinBoats sticker on the back of the outboard.. I keep forgetting to take a close up of it.



Id like to show off mine if they ever come...  Actually i did get confirmation they shipped the other day, i just have to give Jim a hard time. Boat looks kickin you did a fine job, How is the fish finder working out for ya?


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## Troutman3000

I dont think it looks ackward at all. Remember its not a 30k bass boat. Its a refinished tin boat that serves its purpose well, fishing. You shouldnt want to turn it into something its not, thats a lean, mean fishin machine.


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## dyeguy1212

Bugpac said:


> dyeguy1212 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Also, by the way, notice the TinBoats sticker on the back of the outboard.. I keep forgetting to take a close up of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Id like to show off mine if they ever come...  Actually i did get confirmation they shipped the other day, i just have to give Jim a hard time. Boat looks kickin you did a fine job, How is the fish finder working out for ya?
Click to expand...


Pretty good! I just moved the transducer in (I had it farther out) but it was kicking up more water than the outboard when on plane lol. I just moved it in a bit, so I'm hoping that will solve the problem. Works great when moving slow though, and its great finally having speed and water temp.


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## dyeguy1212

Troutman3000 said:


> I dont think it looks ackward at all. Remember its not a 30k bass boat. Its a refinished tin boat that serves its purpose well, fishing. You shouldnt want to turn it into something its not, thats a lean, mean fishin machine.



I just think a more streamlined console would make it look more bassy, as opposed to tinboaty. Wouldn't take much to cut it down, but its in a comfortable position so I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place. To be honest, I'm more concerned about resale value than anything else right now. I saw a nitro with 100HP go for 4500 on CL the other night, so I'm intching to get this thing sold so I can get back on the market :wink: 

I'll probably have to wait until mid july to sell, because I need it for the two one-on-one tournaments I'm fishing. The other 12 tournaments this year I'll be fishing in my buddy's 1854 bass tracker. (problem is, we have identical engines :lol


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## Troutman3000

dyeguy1212 said:


> Troutman3000 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I dont think it looks ackward at all. Remember its not a 30k bass boat. Its a refinished tin boat that serves its purpose well, fishing. You shouldnt want to turn it into something its not, thats a lean, mean fishin machine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just think a more streamlined console would make it look more bassy, as opposed to tinboaty. Wouldn't take much to cut it down, but its in a comfortable position so I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place. To be honest, I'm more concerned about resale value than anything else right now. I saw a nitro with 100HP go for 4500 on CL the other night, so I'm intching to get this thing sold so I can get back on the market :wink:
> 
> I'll probably have to wait until mid july to sell, because I need it for the two one-on-one tournaments I'm fishing. The other 12 tournaments this year I'll be fishing in my buddy's 1854 bass tracker. (problem is, we have identical engines :lol
Click to expand...



Cant really put anything bigger on that one huh? 

What is a one-on-one?


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## CHILLWILLATX

What you should do is leave the console and everything else you did the way it is. THEN -Build a front box kind of the shape of a triangle so it would appear the be sloping in the front. Carpet it - put a door in the front and bam you got dry storage -& also , a more areo dynamic look to it "so it doesn't look so boxy". Since you are strapped on cash this would be a cheap quick fix to it appearing so bulky. The dry box storage area idea is what you should do. I believe its the little extra attention to detail that makes peopel pay more. Plus that dry storage area is allways good for a wallet - or various other items you need to get to quick when you don't need to be getting down on the floor in the storage. Hell put a lock on it, mabey even cram a cd/radio player in there? That would be cheap and increase the resell mabey a few 100$. What do you think?


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## CHILLWILLATX

dyeguy1212 said:


> I still can't decide if I should redo the console. I just hate how awkward it looks. I'm thinking I might just take it off and try to cut it down without having to recarpet and rebuild the whole thing. Heres what it might look like... What do you guys think?





I can see it now - that would look awsome and you wouldn't have to be tearing down all that hard work you put into making that console. It really doesn't look that bad. You did a great job. Go with dry storage in the front of the console.... just give it a cool sloping look - or mabey even "v" it or give it a slight curve -


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## Troutman3000

Great Idea Chill.


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## ober51

I'd leave it and put something there, maybe even the fire extinguisher? Hmm, I'm thinking.


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## dyeguy1212

Troutman3000 said:


> dyeguy1212 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Troutman3000 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I dont think it looks ackward at all. Remember its not a 30k bass boat. Its a refinished tin boat that serves its purpose well, fishing. You shouldnt want to turn it into something its not, thats a lean, mean fishin machine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just think a more streamlined console would make it look more bassy, as opposed to tinboaty. Wouldn't take much to cut it down, but its in a comfortable position so I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place. To be honest, I'm more concerned about resale value than anything else right now. I saw a nitro with 100HP go for 4500 on CL the other night, so I'm intching to get this thing sold so I can get back on the market :wink:
> 
> I'll probably have to wait until mid july to sell, because I need it for the two one-on-one tournaments I'm fishing. The other 12 tournaments this year I'll be fishing in my buddy's 1854 bass tracker. (problem is, we have identical engines :lol
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Cant really put anything bigger on that one huh?
> 
> What is a one-on-one?
Click to expand...



Not on a college budget I can't.


One-on-one are tournaments with one angler per boat.


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## dyeguy1212

CHILLWILLATX said:


> What you should do is leave the console and everything else you did the way it is. THEN -Build a front box kind of the shape of a triangle so it would appear the be sloping in the front. Carpet it - put a door in the front and bam you got dry storage -& also , a more areo dynamic look to it "so it doesn't look so boxy". Since you are strapped on cash this would be a cheap quick fix to it appearing so bulky. The dry box storage area idea is what you should do. I believe its the little extra attention to detail that makes peopel pay more. Plus that dry storage area is allways good for a wallet - or various other items you need to get to quick when you don't need to be getting down on the floor in the storage. Hell put a lock on it, mabey even cram a cd/radio player in there? That would be cheap and increase the resell mabey a few 100$. What do you think?




I actually fabbed one out of cardboard the other day, but I didn't like it. The slope is a good idea, but it takes up more deck space and actually makes the console look bigger and more awkward. Plus when I take someone with me, we both usually stand up front and pitch, and that is the usual coangler standing spot :lol: 

I'm going to have to figure out if I can peel the carpet up and just cut it all with a circular saw. If this turns into an all out rebuild, I'll go with an entirely different design with a slope.


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## Froggy

Check the catalog 

https://www.akmccallum.com/

Great consoles there, take out another student loan.... :lol:


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## Kabina

What about a rod holder on the front of the console? Maybe something like this. https://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/...older&cm_ite=netcon&rid=2146251080&hasJS=true

If you fish with more than one rod like alot of other people, it would be a nice place to keep them while fishing, instead of them laying on the deck under feet and keep from having to move them around when you are walking on the deck.

I don't know. Just an idea.


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## Kabina

Just stumbled across this while looking around. Looks like someone else had the same idea.

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=13795


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## dyeguy1212

Good idea, but those types of rod holders aren't for me. I already have two rod savers screwed into the deck, and I'm the type that likes them on the floor. But the main reason I don't use that type of rod holder is because I cast side arm most of the time, and I have trouble just clearing the fish finder, let alone three 7 foot rods :lol:


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## basshunter25

Dang! Too bad you didn't want mine. I plan on getting rid of them. I don't like the rods straight up and down in front of the console and Im contemplating adding a rod locker anyway. Well if you change your mind maybe we could make a deal with the stencils. 8)


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## dyeguy1212

Sorry, I don't plan on changing my mind on them anytime soon :lol:


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## dyeguy1212

Stencil is listed
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=13884


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## koulaid

How do you like the front seat post extender? Is it pretty stable?


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## dyeguy1212

works perfect


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## JohnnyBoy99

Hey Dyeguy, I had a quick question. It is about your other mod. I figured there is a better chance of you answering here.

I'm wanting to spray on a topcoat just like you did on your other mod. Did it work fine not using a special bottom paint, but just using a Rustoleum Protective enamel?
I guess what i'm asking, was did it scratch up a bunch or chip? Or would you recommend using something different?


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## dyeguy1212

Are you talking about the inside or outside of the boat? On my 1432, I used a topside (marine hull) paint by pettit paints. The inside was rustoleum paint.

I really can't recommend using regular spray paint on the outside of a boat. In the long run you're more likely to run into chips and bubbles, especially if the boat is in the water for a long time. However, for the inside I highly recommend using a normal rustoleum paint. Chips and scratches are inevitable on the inside of a boat, and using a spray paint means you can touch it up very easily. In addition, it is rare to have much water exposure to the inside of the boat, outside of some in the bottom and some from rain, which is no big deal. But the outside is constantly exposed to water, and one chip could lead to a ton of paint peeling or bubbling off the bottom if you didn't use a topside paint.


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## Derek

The boat looks great dude. I do agree that I think it would look better with a shorter console. It shouldnt be much trouble peeling the carpet back, use a drywall knife, like 6+ inches wide and it should come off without much trouble


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## dyeguy1212

I might have to tear into it this week. I started on the rear deck today, and I hope to get it all sealed tomorrow. Then the walls come in, and I'm calling it done


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## dyeguy1212

Rear deck is ready to be carpeted and installed. I had a full jug of watersealer to kill off, so this deck will NEVER rot :lol:. Plus I spray painted the bracing that will be exposed when the hatches are open with a dark brown, to cover that ugly wood stain built in the watersealer. I did the same up front and like the looks of it a lot better.

The goal for tomorrow is to get the deck carpeted and installed, along with the hatches. I'm not happy with one of the hatches up front, so I'm going to really take my time to make sure I get a good fit this time (so I don't have to redo it like I plan to do with the front one). Problem is, one of my hinges I have left is about an inch too short, so I'm using it anyways with the plan to replace it when I come across a cheap SS hinge in the future.


After that the walls will go in, and then I have to rebuild the console and she's done. I am more than ready to stop dumping money into this boat :lol: 

Pics to come


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## rook

Boat looks great man. Looks to be the same color I just painted mine. Was kinda wondering what color carpet I was gonna go with to look good with the tan ext. Was shying away from the grey but it looks alot better than I expected. How does that 40hp Mariner push the boat, what kinda speed you getting. I have a very similar build going with a 1648 but with a 50 Mariner.


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## DarkstarCrashes

Very nice man, you have really done an amazing job. 

I'm already drooling over a 16 foot V for the shallow water Chesapeake fishing I do and I'm not even done my 12 mod.


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## dyeguy1212

rook said:


> Boat looks great man. Looks to be the same color I just painted mine. Was kinda wondering what color carpet I was gonna go with to look good with the tan ext. Was shying away from the grey but it looks alot better than I expected. How does that 40hp Mariner push the boat, what kinda speed you getting. I have a very similar build going with a 1648 but with a 50 Mariner.



I get 30 mph by myself, 28 with a coangler. Hopefull I kept this rear deck light enough to keep those speeds.


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## dyeguy1212

Alright I got the rear deck installed this morning... good God it's hot out ](*,) 


As you can see, I overbuilt the deck bracing as usual :lol: I did however, get away without having to use many brackets, which saved me a bundle. I bought a 15 buck box of deck screws, and I think the rear deck turned out just as good, if not better than the front deck. I went with plywood that was just over 1/2", but was slightly thinner than what I used up front. With a gas tank and two batteries in the rear, I have more than enough weight back there already. While I did use a ton of 2x2's, they are really light IMO. I used about 3 total, maybe less, which really doesn't add up to much weight.

As you'll notice, I painted some of the 2x2s a really dark brown, where ever you might see the bracing after the deck is installed. That thompson's in butt ugly, and I think the darker color gives it a more finished and professional look. I also had some foam left over from the 1432 build, so I put it under the rear decks. Not sure it would do much, but it might deaden a little noise. I screwed the foam down with those Teks screws with the flange, and its really solid.


Next come the hatches, but I need to sit in front of the computer in the AC for a while before I deal with that :roll: 


Here are the long awaited pics....


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## FishingRust

Looks great man but if you think its hot add 100 percent humidity to it! Oh and it gets hotter down here in about a month it will be around 100! hows that for hot? :mrgreen:


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## rook

95 here today. Gotta love it


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## dyeguy1212

Got the hatches installed, which was a pita. I had to tear the carpet off one and cut it down a little bit, then recarpet. Then I realized I put the grain facing the wrong direction, so I got to recarpet it again! How fun!

Hatches are in, but look kinda crappy with the wrong size hinges. I'll have to order another one sometime soon.



And now I'll enjoy my last few hours before this sun burn sets it 8)


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## wolfmjc

8) HOT and HUMID here today (until the STRONG thunderstorm hit ) boat looks great! does the tray in front of your motor drain water back out of the boat? my boat doesnt have that tray, but i see a lot of boats that do so i was wondering how important it would be.....i also like the design of you rear hatch's...


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## bassboy1

wolfmjc said:


> 8) HOT and HUMID here today (until the STRONG thunderstorm hit ) boat looks great! does the tray in front of your motor drain water back out of the boat? my boat doesnt have that tray, but i see a lot of boats that do so i was wondering how important it would be.....i also like the design of you rear hatch's...



Most drain through the transom. If you are in rough water and take waves over the transom, it allows most of the water to exit. Same for when you come off of plane real quick. Now, you could have one like my old boat had, which from the factory had no holes. Never did figure that out. One of the 4 bazillion previous owners drilled all sorts of holes in the bottom, so now it trains into the hull. There were a lot of things wrong done on that boat from the factory that just didn't make much sense to me.


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## dyeguy1212

Yeah there are two holes, about the size of a normal drain plug. That's why I have my bilge pump hooked up through the side- that way I can see how much water is pumping out and when it's done, without having to lean over the boat or listen for the stream.


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## wolfmjc

Thanks, my boat did not come with one so i was just wondering........


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## koda

Bemisboy1 said:


> Where do you order a livewell like that?


ya don't buy that one. to many hassles with ordering. i've seen nice ones made out of a cooler.
koda


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## dyeguy1212

koda said:


> Bemisboy1 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Where do you order a livewell like that?
> 
> 
> 
> ya don't buy that one. to many hassles with ordering. i've seen nice ones made out of a cooler.
> koda
Click to expand...



Nicer ones from a cooler I highly doubt. The hassles I don't doubt a bit.


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## dyeguy1212

Got the front and back walls of the cockpit in this morning, so now I'm waiting for the sidewalls to dry before applying carpet, so they can be installed. 

Then comes the console shrink, new piano hinges in the rear, a new front left hatch (one corner was misshaped) and I can call her done! [-o<


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## dyeguy1212

Finally snapped some pics.. This is where the boat stands as of right now. 

Things left to do:
Put carpeted wood over exposed 2x4 at the tops of the walls
Cut down the console
Redo the rear hinges because they turned out like crap
Make a new front left hatch (one corner ended up too small)
Recarpet two walls of the recessed TM tray, because it takes a lot of abuse
Figure out why my GPS suddenly stopped working
JB weld a couple holes from the oar locks
Touch up some paint here and there

Sell and buy bigger boat.

Here are the pics, in no particular order.


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## rook

Looks great buddy.....where do I get one of them snazzy stickers.


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## dyeguy1212

PM Jim.. they're 5 bucks I believe



I just got off the phone with Tracker. Turns out my boat can take up to a 60 horse... if I don't sell this thing, the 40 is as good as gone, and things are going to get nuts :twisted:


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## rook

If your can figure out a way to ship, I could make a phone call and sel it for you right now. I have accounts with trucking companies and a dock so setting it up would be pretty easy. Got a buddy that is hard up for a good 40-50hp remote steer.


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## dyeguy1212

That would likely be a difficult transaction :lol: But thanks anyways


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## rook

Never hurts to ask!!


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## dyeguy1212

Ran to harbor freight (1:30 round trip) and got a fathersday present and a strip of LED lights for my rear cargo area. They get the job done and look clean when mounted, but they definitely aren't as bright as bluewaterleds. https://www.harborfreight.com/9-inch-led-red-strip-lamp-98408.html

I carpeted one of the "wall toppers" today and then figured out a better way to mount them, so it sits flush with the deck instead of angling with the braces.. so back to the drawing board. I should be able to carpet them tomorrow, meaning the boat will be "done" and I'll be on to the "redo" stage.


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## dyeguy1212

Alright I redid the wall toppers and got them installed, so the boat is DONE! Like I've said, I have some things I want to redo so I can call it perfect, but the hard part is finally done... Here are some pics..


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## Troutman3000

Looks great man, are you still going to sell it for a glitter rocket?


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## dyeguy1212

More like sell it and save for a year to buy a glitter rocket.


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## Brine

dyeguy, how do you like the gps on the finder?

I got a steal on a Bird Matrix, and I can't decide whether to use it or sell it. Do you use the gps function alot?


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## Froggy

Nice work!, about the glitter rocket, you are young, if fishing continues to be your passion, eventually you are going to get one, so dont sweat it. enjoy your current ride. Wait till you can afford it. Fish on!


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## teamhoytpa

Looking good!!! I think i might steal your floor mat idea :mrgreen: I have the carpet done on mine (same color as yours), and after all the work i put into making it right i DON'T like seeing dirt on it :x :mrgreen:


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## free jonboat

VERY NICE work dyeguy. looks gr8


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## dyeguy1212

Brine said:


> dyeguy, how do you like the gps on the finder?
> 
> I got a steal on a Bird Matrix, and I can't decide whether to use it or sell it. Do you use the gps function alot?




I liked it until the GPS randomly died on me. I really have no idea why it stopped working, but it really bums me out. I hadn't had a chance to actually use the GPS function, but I planned to use it today to mark the launch on a new lake so I don't get lost on the way back. I used it mostly for speed and time, and it was awesome when it worked.

Thanks for the kind words everybody.


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## fender66

quite impressive to say the least.


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## monarch1652

man i just joined on in the end of this thread but i have to say. you did a great job man. very nice clean work. that is one slick boat! =D>


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## dyeguy1212

thank you sir :beer:


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## Home Grown Basser

Very nice I love the older trolling motors also. My favorites.


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## dyeguy1212

Had a few stray pics I had to post to show this rig catches some fish... Nothing too big, but sure beats shore fishing right?


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## fender66

Saweeeet! I think we should all post pics of our catches. I try to get a pic of everything that's keeper size and I put them in my log with details like:
Caught on, where, water temps, time of day, etc....


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## dyeguy1212

fender66 said:


> Saweeeet! I think we should all post pics of our catches. I try to get a pic of everything that's keeper size and I put them in my log with details like:
> Caught on, where, water temps, time of day, etc....



I thought about doing that this year, but as the season progresses I really find myself overthinking the fish. Just being out on the water is fun, but really figuring out the fish and knowing why theyre behaving a certain way is whats really rewarding for me. 

I'd have to imagine it drives my coangler nuts when I drop 1000 hypothetical on him starting from the days leading up to a tournament, the drive over, the time on the water, and the drive home. Half the time I don't know wtf I'm talking about either :wink: 

I do keep a pretty good mental log, but I find myself always trying to group things together with weather patterns. I guess that's just the whitetail hunter in me 8)


----------



## Waterwings

I'm a lot easier on myself about fishing, as I don't need the added stress, lol. If it's not raining, no major wind, and at least 65 degrees outside, I take the boat out. If I catch fish, that's cool, if not, I don't get worried about it. It's nice just being on the water for a few hours. Of course, with these 90+ temps we've had, I haven't been out this entire season.


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## CountryRoad

awesome!


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## dyeguy1212

Thank you!


----------



## huntingbronco

Did you use flat piano hinges or did you use ones that have wrap to them so the fasten to the bottom surface of the hatch, rather than the top surface? 

Thanks - HB.


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## 93civEJ1

great work...I just looked through your whole thread!...getting me stoked about getting my first boat and next little project to play with besides car stuff!!


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## dyeguy1212

huntingbronco said:


> Did you use flat piano hinges or did you use ones that have wrap to them so the fasten to the bottom surface of the hatch, rather than the top surface?
> 
> Thanks - HB.




Normal piano hinges, screwed into the side of the plywood.


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## craigslistwhore

I know you have a new "ride" do you know what the max horsepower is for this boat? I found one on craigslist exactly like this stock but it only has a 25HP motor on it and was just wondering if I can get it cheap enough and hock the 25HP whats the biggest I could put on it? Going to look and possibly buy it on saturday. 


Thanks


----------



## dyeguy1212

I called Tracker who now owns Fisher and they said similar boats have a max HP of 60, but they weren't sure about this particular model. The transom had a very small amount of flex when gunning it from a standstill with my 40 HP, so I'd guess that's about right. I wouldn't feel safe with anything over 75 HP based on length and width alone...


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## craigslistwhore

Excellent I dont want a 70. I can lay my hands on a nice 50 Honda 4 stroke so if I get it, I am thinking about just selling the 25 and putting the 50 on in my build.


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## Gators5220

Sweet boat bud! =D> =D>


----------

