# Are Hitch Extensions Safe?



## LarryA (Jan 15, 2009)

I'm thinking of buying an extension for my hitch. What I've been looking at is either a 12" or 18" extension to go between the receiver and ball mount. I need more room between the truck and the winch tower (moved everything forward to fit the boat to trailer better). The only thing that rests on my mind is that the safety chains would be rather long and if something would come apart it would not be a pretty sight. Then again, I guess it would be bad no matter what, should your hitch ever separate from the yow vehicle.
Just wondering if anyone has used on of the extensions. I also looked at swing away couplers but the cost is steep, at around $150 shipped, for what I have. I've already spent too much rebuilding the trailer but getting there and back is as important as the fun fishing.
Thanks,
Larry


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## redbug (Jan 15, 2009)

as long as you don't go over the rated weight you will be fine.
I sold a 19ft Triton to a guy the added the 18" model and didn't have any issues


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## ben2go (Jan 16, 2009)

I agree.Pulling isn't the going to be the problem.Tongue weight and stopping is where the issues will arise.The forward momentum of the boat will put leverage on the extension as the truck slows down before the boat.I doubt this will be an issue because your boat appears to be light.The othe problem is tongue weight.To measure this you will need a bath room scale and a piece of wood(2x4).The wood should be long enough to hold the trailer level.Place the wood on the bathroom scale and then place the tongue on top of the wood.Try to keep the trailer level front to back.The weight reading will give you a fairly close tongue weight.On the fiberglass jon, I used fish in,the tongue weight with the boat loaded was only 90lbs,120lbs if I sat the battery up front for the trolling motor.


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## Zum (Jan 16, 2009)

Never thought of using a peice of wood to keep the trailer level,I just placed the tongue directly on the scale.
I think the tongue weight should be around 10% of the total weight.


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## LarryA (Jan 16, 2009)

It's not the tongue weight I was wondering about but rather the fact that the ball mount (drop bar) would the extension amount father away from the receiver. I had the boat moved forward last summer and it towed fine but wouldn't allow me to open my truck's tailgate unless I was parked all but perfectly straight in line with the trailer. I'd like to get a little more room. I was just wondering if the extension would have any issues I should be aware of because the safety chains would need to be the length of the extension longer to reach the receiver chain loops. I'm thinking that will have quite a bit of chain looping below the coupler to reach the connection point and should something come apart, the trailer would definitely nose dive into the road surface. I was thinking of some sort of loop to restrict the chains and keep them from hanging as loose as I'd think they would be. I don't know if I'm making sense here or not. Basically I'd be adding at least a 12" section to the receiver, then inserting the ball mount into that rather than the receiver.

This is one of the extensions: https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=98677


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## Popeye (Jan 17, 2009)

If you use the extension and need to add chain how about using a bungee cord to take up the slack? Chains won't drag and bungee will stretch to allow for turns. Personally I would go with the shortest extension you can get away with because of Abbe or Sine Error. What I mean by that is, a degree of error measured close in is a small distance from true. But when you extend that 1 degree of error further out you end up further from center. The inherant play in the extension will transmit this error to your trailer allowing it to sway back and forth more.


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## LarryA (Jan 17, 2009)

flounderhead59 said:


> If you use the extension and need to add chain how about using a bungee cord to take up the slack? Chains won't drag and bungee will stretch to allow for turns. Personally I would go with the shortest extension you can get away with because of Abbe or Sine Error. What I mean by that is, a degree of error measured close in is a small distance from true. But when you extend that 1 degree of error further out you end up further from center. The inherant play in the extension will transmit this error to your trailer allowing it to sway back and forth more.



Thanks, I was thinking the same thing with any play that may be between the receiver/extension/ball mount. Seems like too many parts above what is already there. Along with other things, I've realized that after disconnecting the trailer, I'd have to remove the ball due to the extent it would stick out the rear of my truck. I'm starting to lean to buying a fold away coupler. A little expensive but I think a lot better and safer route to go, or just live with being very careful when I open the tailgate of the truck.


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## Waterwings (Jan 17, 2009)

Just a thought, but what if you remove the tailgate (most are removeable) when towing the boat, unless you have stuff in the bed of the truck that might slide out w/o a tailgate there. Just a thought.


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## LarryA (Jan 17, 2009)

Waterwings said:


> Just a thought, but what if you remove the tailgate (most are removeable) when towing the boat, unless you have stuff in the bed of the truck that might slide out w/o a tailgate there. Just a thought.



Now that's an idea I didn't even think of! Maybe buy one of those net type tailgate things. Hummmm... =D>


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## Waterwings (Jan 17, 2009)

LarryA said:


> Waterwings said:
> 
> 
> > Just a thought, but what if you remove the tailgate (most are removeable) when towing the boat, unless you have stuff in the bed of the truck that might slide out w/o a tailgate there. Just a thought.
> ...




I've seen the net-type tailgate products on a few trucks around here. Some were flimsy small netting material, and some were made of the wider nylon webbing, whcih I think would be sturdier and not stretch so much.


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## sccamper (Jan 17, 2009)

The extension in the link only extends 6 3/4 inchs. I dont think that will change the towing or backing. If you are worried about the length of safety chain, you could slide a section of pipe over the chain. Ive pulled cars with chain inside pipe. It still is free to move but not far enough that the tow vehicle cant control it if seperation.


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## redbug (Jan 17, 2009)

When the safety chains are placed correctly they should catch the tongue of the trier an prevent it from digging into the road. 
I think I remember you saying you have a jon boat. if this is the case you will be fine with the extension, they are made to move your trailer away from the tow vehicle. They would not sell them if they were not safe. 
the tongue weight is the factor you need to keep in mind but with a smaller tin boat this will not be an issue

Wayne


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Mar 27, 2009)

Could you weld a piece of steel to the extension to hook the chains too?


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## Quackrstackr (Mar 27, 2009)

The safety "chains" on my factory Triton trailer are coiled cable. They keep themselves up in the air to prevent dragging.

Safety chains are meant to keep the trailer from becoming detached from the tow vehicle and plowing into oncoming or following traffic. They are also meant to be crossed in an X when hooked to the tow vehicle. Many people do not know that crossing the chains is the proper way to attach them. The X will catch the coupler and keep it from striking the pavement should the trailer come uncoupled.


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## ben2go (Mar 28, 2009)

If a trailer drops off the ball at highway speeds and diggs in,it will pole vault through the air and do a lot of damage.


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## redbug (Mar 28, 2009)

ben2go said:


> If a trailer drops off the ball at highway speeds and diggs in,it will pole vault through the air and do a lot of damage.


that is why you cross the safety chains under the tounge of the trailer


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## fish18 (Mar 28, 2009)

I had an extension for my trailer built and installed at a trick truck place that sells hitches ect. What we did was take the ball reciever off and slide another piece of square steel inside the original square steel. Roughly 4 ft went inside, and ran a huge bolt thru at about 3.5 ft near the end.
We used two bolts right before the seam met then welded the overlapping seam. Outside piece extended 2ft. Drilled holes for the chains and trailer wiring and reattached the reciever, winch holder,and jack. 
Back in the day this cost me $35.00. This is over 20 years old and never a problem.


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## Gamefisher (Mar 28, 2009)

I've been told that because of the extra leverage added by using an extension, it will reduce the maximum capacity of your hitch. But for a small boat, no big deal. 

Matt


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## ben2go (Mar 28, 2009)

redbug said:


> ben2go said:
> 
> 
> > If a trailer drops off the ball at highway speeds and diggs in,it will pole vault through the air and do a lot of damage.
> ...




Yes.I was adding that to back up Quackrstackr's previous comment. :wink:


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