# 1996 Mariner 25HP Cold start



## Givey1982 (Mar 29, 2019)

I have a 1996 25HP Mariner tiller steer electric start. I am trying to determine what I can do to help it start easier when it is cold. I mean cold like 60 degrees. After I start it then it starts easily but it is a bear the first time. It takes a lot of starting even with the choke. Does anyone have any ideas of adjustments etc I might can make to help it start easier? I am at 4500 feet altitude.

Thanks


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## nccatfisher (Mar 30, 2019)

You don't give a great deal of info. about when it has been tuned up last etc. If it has had a recent GOOD tune up I would check to make sure that the choke was in fact functioning properly. Once all that was done and if it was still acting the same a compression check would be next.


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## CedarRiverScooter (Mar 30, 2019)

Could be a problem with fuel pump losing it's prime. Maybe the check valve is weak.


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## Givey1982 (Mar 30, 2019)

I bought this 2016 and had it tuned up then. I have not put many hours (less than 10 on the motor) on it since then. I use my trolling motor a lot.


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## onthewater102 (Mar 30, 2019)

60 degrees giving you issues? Something is definitely wrong. Have you checked the spark? It's an easy one to rule out, but the power packs and triggers on those motors are sometimes a source of issues. I haven't heard about too many issues with the stator, but it's a possibility too, but consistent strong spark on both cylinders would rule them all out.

Testing the fuel hose check valve is another easy rule out if you're just poking in the dark trying to find the problem.

There isn't much to the carbs on those motors, a complete rebuild kit is pretty cheap and an easy job - even if you don't do it yourself you're not looking at a lot of $$$ there - while you're at it and have the carb removed check the reed block to make sure they're all closing tightly. You might be able to avoid a future idling issue by tuning that up a bit.

I have the same motor, albeit from the start of the model run rather than the tail end, but I only need to give it a shot of starter fluid in the late fall when it's 25 out. 40 deg or so and up it starts just fine, within a pull or two...


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## Pappy (Mar 30, 2019)

Okay, lets rule out the fuel pump and a check valve in the supply hose primer bulb right off the bat. 
Why? Because all either one of them is doing is filling up the fuel bowl on the carb. If the bulb can be pumped until firm then the carb is full....period. 
It's not spark because it starts and runs.............just cold natured. 
If the engine has a choke with the old fashioned choke blade then I would do a visual check and make sure that the choke blade is absolutely 100% closed. If not it can be a bear to start. Let's start there with the simple stuff.


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## turbotodd (Mar 30, 2019)

Good old Mariner.

They don't have a choke plate on that motor. It's got a knob on the front of the motor that you pull out, also turn to adjust idle speed. I hated them and I'm glad I don't have to deal with 'em anymore! I want to say its' set up sort of like a prime-start but I don't remember. I try to block out Merc and mariner knowledge.

If it is prime-start (no choke plate), it could be a clogged passage in the carb and/or it's bowl. 

Also on prime-start motors, the proper way to start a cold one is no throttle, just crank. Opposite of a "choke" motor where you'd advance the throttle a little and then crank it with the choke plate closed (on).

Also on prime-start motors, they can be a real pain in the neck if passages are plugged. Sometimes you can't get to the plugged passage to clean it, which is the case on a particular Yamaha I'm working on at the moment. 

Reason for prime-start is because that and the Merc equivalant had the forward-reverse shift in the tiller handle. It's convenient--until you have to work on it, then it's a pain in the neck. Because it shifts as soon as you move the tiller grip, there's no throttle in neutral so a choke plate style carb would've been hard to start anyway, thus they put a prime-starter on it which gives them a selling point...no choke AND shift in the throttle grip.


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## Pappy (Mar 30, 2019)

Thanks Todd and sorry you have to block 'em out! One of the guys at the shop has one and it is always coming back in for one reason or another. I give it to the new guy to fix. RHIP ! 
The OMC engines also had prime start on later model engines and the fittings that go into the intake manifold would indeed plug up. 
I second the suggestion to start there!


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## muddywaders (Mar 31, 2019)

I assume were talking about the Mercury/Mariner and not the Yamaha/Mariner if so you may try priming twice.You can verify the primer operation by shining a light through the carb with throttle open(motor off)while pulling the choke knob and you should see fuel squirting.m.w.


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## Givey1982 (Mar 31, 2019)

muddywaders said:


> I assume were talking about the Mercury/Mariner and not the Yamaha/Mariner if so you may try priming twice.You can verify the primer operation by shining a light through the carb with throttle open(motor off)while pulling the choke knob and you should see fuel squirting.m.w.




I did not know There were Yamaha/Mariners. Mine is a 1996. How do I determine which it is?


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## muddywaders (Mar 31, 2019)

The Yamaha mariner will plate|sticker on the transom bracket with model and serial # with made in Japan on it.The Mercury will have serial # on the mid-section and will be made in usa ,Canada or Belgium.m.w.


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## Givey1982 (Mar 31, 2019)

turbotodd said:


> Good old Mariner.
> 
> They don't have a choke plate on that motor. It's got a knob on the front of the motor that you pull out, also turn to adjust idle speed. I hated them and I'm glad I don't have to deal with 'em anymore! I want to say its' set up sort of like a prime-start but I don't remember. I try to block out Merc and mariner knowledge.
> 
> ...




Ok here is what I found.
I have a “Pull to prime” knob. It appears this knob does several things. One thing is that it engages an arm that when pull out the arm is supposed to push down on a blue button that I believe “primes” the motor. The issue is that the button is so stiff that the arm will not push it down. I can push it with my finger and it appears to make a big difference.


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## Givey1982 (Mar 31, 2019)

muddywaders said:


> The Yamaha mariner will plate|sticker on the transom bracket with model and serial # with made in Japan on it.The Mercury will have serial # on the mid-section and will be made in usa ,Canada or Belgium.m.w.



Mine is the Mercury/Mariner 25ELH


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## richg99 (Mar 31, 2019)

Loosening up the Prime button that you just mentioned sounds like a great thing to try.

And....(even though I know far less than most of the guys on here about engines) try this.

TILT your engine as far back as you can prior to starting. 

My 1996 Johnson was a bear to start for the first year that I owned her. My mechanic said, "there is nothing wrong with that engine but the operator": (we know each other well). I was NOT tilting the engine. I was putting the engine in a perfectly level position and she didn't want to start cold. It seems that my old carb'd engine needed a bit of gravity to make the fuel flow. Titling her back did that. She now starts just great after a good pump on the bulb.

Easy to try, and costs nothing. 
regards,


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## Pappy (Mar 31, 2019)

Givey1982 said:


> turbotodd said:
> 
> 
> > Good old Mariner.
> ...



Glad you found it and relayed so that others can benefit!


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## Givey1982 (Mar 31, 2019)

Pappy said:


> Givey1982 said:
> 
> 
> > turbotodd said:
> ...



I am going to take it apart and clean it all well. I believe the “Pull to prime” knob is very hard to pulll out. When I got it out all the way it did depress the primer buttun. I will provide a final follow up on the fix after it is completed.

Thanks to everyone for the discussion which pointed me in the right direction.


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## onthewater102 (Apr 1, 2019)

I believe they called that an enrichment valve. It's a side reservoir under pressure from the fuel bulb that when you press down on the blue plunger allows a shot of extra fuel to flow through bypass channels in the carb. In the cold especially you do not want to leave it pulled out when you go to start the motor or you will flood it as fuel will keep flowing through the bypass with the valve open.

Prime the bulb in the fuel line till it's hard, then pull the knob out for the enrichment, you'll hear a squirt of fuel go to the carb. Push it back in, prime the fuel line bulb again and pull the knob out again for another shot - then push it back in and try to start the motor.


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## Givey1982 (Apr 4, 2019)

Pappy said:


> Givey1982 said:
> 
> 
> > turbotodd said:
> ...




Ok I discovered that the blue button is not that stiff. What I did not know is how difficult it is to pull the primer knob ALL THE WAY OUT. I have been pulling it out an inch or so and then stopping because it felt as if I hit the max distance it would come out. I pulled harder a couple of days ago and it came out another 3/4”-1” and wham it pushed the primer button down and fires right up!


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## Givey1982 (May 22, 2019)

So I let this sit a week or so and I had the same issue. The carb area was what appeared to me to be overly oily so I pulled the carb off and the primer is part of the carb. Took it apart and the primer had fallen apart on the inside. Bought a rebuild kit which came with a new primer and seal. Works like a champ now


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