# Boat Trailer build



## Timbo89

Here is the plan 






My trailer is going to be in the area of 17' in total from end to ball. Im going to be making it all out of mild steel [email protected]/8" thick and the tounge 3x3 @3/16 thick. My tin is a sea nymph 14r at 13'7" and 47" bottom 59 or 57" at the widest point on top. I wanted to be able to put steps around the fenders and put a plastic type of board on the bottom for easy loading. Im also going to put bunk boards for loading it back straight. 

Does anyone have any ideas as to what else i sould do. This is the first trailer im going to be making but not the first full fab job ive done. I have a lincoln 175 thats awesome and 72/25 mix.

First boat ive owned too.


I will be starting to get it all layed out and tacked up wednesday. Im off that day so will have time to work on it. This will be coated with primer and semi gloss black paint. I have the lights winch and jack of the old trailer and will be using the axle since it is brand new. I will extend the axle that i have already and be replacing the springs


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## Timbo89

Here is my tin


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## Ranchero50

Seems you should be able to find a decent used trailer for about half the cost of materials to build one.


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## Timbo89

I wish I was able to but a used trailer is around 200+ needing work. I have tons of lakes around so a lot of boats. With 48' of 2x3 its 177 w tax and all the pieces cut so they are nice and straight.my axle is brand new with new tires and rims. I'm budgeting 300 of everything includes new springs mounts and all


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## PSG-1

That layout is just about the same as my jetboat trailer, except mine is made from aluminum I-beam and 3" sq aluminum tube. But all the dimensions are about the same.


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## Timbo89

Thats some nice work on the trailer. I have a liner in my mig gun for aluminum but have never messed with welding it. Im very confident in my work just not really sure on where to set up the lower boards under the boad and i got a idea of how the ones on the side go, and rollers right now it sits on one but thats it and its on carpet 2x4 skinny side up. Ive been reading around and want to use a plastic type board and counter sink the bolts for the bottom and covered bunks on the side.


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## Timbo89

Does anyone think that the 1/8" 2x3 with be too thin I will be using a 3/16" thick tounge if it matters. The current trailer is 2x3 with a 3x3 tounge not sure on thickness. I dont think it will be but again first boat and ill be adding a front and rear deck with maybe a bigger outboard.


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## nbaffaro

1/8th wall will be plenty and 3/16th for the toungue will be over kill. My 5200lb trailer was all 1/8th. 

I personally wouldn't buy or build another tube trailer. Mine rusted in half from the inside out. C channel is much better. Not as pretty but less prone to rust issues.


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## Timbo89

I've thought about that a little bit and ill just make sure not to leave any areas for water to enter the tube . Fully welding all joints/ corners and I have half a sheet or ill buy some 1/8" plate and nuild my brackets off that soground don't go through the tube and leave a chance for water to enter. 

I'm using 6" oval led and amber marker lights right where the it v's


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## PSG-1

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=332464#p332464 said:


> Timbo89 » Yesterday, 20:51[/url]"]Thats some nice work on the trailer. I have a liner in my mig gun for aluminum but have never messed with welding it. Im very confident in my work just not really sure on where to set up the lower boards under the boad and i got a idea of how the ones on the side go, and rollers right now it sits on one but thats it and its on carpet 2x4 skinny side up. Ive been reading around and want to use a plastic type board and counter sink the bolts for the bottom and covered bunks on the side.



A teflon liner in the MIG gun works better for feeding aluminum than the steel liners, but not by much. Because aluminum is a soft wire, it doesn't perform well when you try to run it through 15 feet of liner, which is why the spool gun is preferred. 

But if you have to do it with a MIG, here's a few tips from someone who has been there and done it. 

Use ER5356 wire, not 4043. First, 4043 is not rated for marine applications, and exposed to saltwater, the weld will dissolve over time. Second, 4043 is much softer, which means it's a lot more susceptible to jamming and bird nesting in the drive rolls. 

Always keep your gun lead as straight as possible, this reduces friction on the wire as it passes through the liner. Any bends, kinks, etc, WILL cause it to jam, it's not a matter of 'if' but 'when' Worst case scenario is when it jams so bad you can't get it out of the liner, and have to throw it away and put in a new liner.

Even so, if you're doing a lot of aluminum, you'll still need to replace the liner after about every 5 1 lb spools of wire, as the wire puts grooves in the liner, which increases friction and causes jamming.

And finally, use a slightly oversize contact tip. If you are running .030" wire, you should use an .035" tip. Reason being, aluminum has 3X the thermal conductivity of steel, as such, it expands as it heats up, and being this close to the arc, this is inevitable. With steel, not a problem, you can run the same size tip as the wire. But with aluminum, it can expand and jam in the tip, so, that's why you want to run a tip about .005" oversized. Get a tip drill, as well (not a torch cleaner, get an actual tip drill, they work much better) You'll need that to restore tips that get jammed with wire. Usually, the tip drill will get it working again, but sometimes, the tip is FUBAR and has to be tossed in the round file (sh!t- can)

As for the bunks, I'm not sure what setup you're going with, but IMHO, the runner boards should be turned so that the flat side bears against the hull, not the skinny side, this spreads the weight out over a larger area.


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## PSG-1

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=332471#p332471 said:


> Timbo89 » Yesterday, 21:28[/url]"]Does anyone think that the 1/8" 2x3 with be too thin I will be using a 3/16" thick tounge if it matters. The current trailer is 2x3 with a 3x3 tounge not sure on thickness. I dont think it will be but again first boat and ill be adding a front and rear deck with maybe a bigger outboard.




1/8 will be plenty strong, especially if you are using rectangular tube, which is considerably stronger than square tube. Most steel trailers for boats up to 21 ft are 1/8.

Now, if you were building it from aluminum, 1/8" would be insufficient, you would need to go with at least 3/16"


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## PSG-1

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=332496#p332496 said:


> Timbo89 » 18 minutes ago[/url]"]I've thought about that a little bit and ill just make sure not to leave any areas for water to enter the tube . Fully welding all joints/ corners and I have half a sheet or ill buy some 1/8" plate and nuild my brackets off that soground don't go through the tube and leave a chance for water to enter.
> 
> I'm using 6" oval led and amber marker lights right where the it v's



If you put your trailer lights up on guide poles, they will last like 10X longer than being on the trailer where they get immersed when you launch. Any other lights or accessories you mount to the trailer, weld brackets and attach to these, or use U-bolts, rather than drilling any holes in the trailer frame. Run the wires for your lights along the frame, toward the inside so they're not visible, and secure with zip ties, or zip tie pads. As long as you weld all your corners water-tight, you shouldn't have any issues with water intrusion.


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## nbaffaro

This is getting slightly off topic but my aluminum trailer doesn't have a single aluminum weld on it. Most aluminum trailers don't have anything welded. Mine is completely bolted together. 


At least your thinking ahead for the grounds and wires. Those are the exact places mine rusted. At the holes for wires and lights.


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## PSG-1

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=332508#p332508 said:


> nbaffaro » 43 minutes ago[/url]"]This is getting slightly off topic but my aluminum trailer doesn't have a single aluminum weld on it. Most aluminum trailers don't have anything welded. Mine is completely bolted together.




Most of them are bolted together, so that cross members can be replaced if they fail from electrolysis corrosion. But as a welder, I hate bolts, they put people like me out of business!


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## Timbo89

The current trailer the boat is on it is galvanized and is the same size I'm going to be using. It is all bolted nothing welded. I like the idea of welds


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## BCOWANWHEELS

i favor 3x3x1/4" for tongue ( to keep it from bending easy) and 2x3x3/16 or (preferably)1/4" for sides where leaf spring mounts as the spring mounts are 1/4" thick 2x3x1/8" for x-members .gosh it costs alot to build a nice small tin boat trailer now. I figure close to $1000.00 for a nice rig counting all the bells and whistles. you can buy trailers cheaper but there not the quality as you would build for yourself. this 1k is me building it. I,am scared to find out what my powder coater charges..........


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## Timbo89

I'm not building a car hauler just a tin boat trailer. That would be one heavy trailer if all made out of 1/4". If they make a trailer all bolted up it sould be plenty strong enough if I weld it all up


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## PSG-1

1/4" is a bit overkill for any part of the trailer except for the axle tube. This is where you DON'T want to skimp, use the heavier tube.

I can't tell you how many trailers I've seen with axles made from 1/8" tubing, and sometimes 1/8" U-channel, often with the axle rusted completely in half. Might as well use beer cans for the axle, it would be just about as strong.


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## Timbo89

I'm going to use the axle that's under the old frame its brand new with brand new tires and rims


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## BCOWANWHEELS

mine is going to be 1/4" completely


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## nbaffaro

Wheels,
1/4" is way over kill. Truck frames are made from 1/4". All your gaining is weight. You'll have to go up an axle size just to carry the weight of the frame. 

I'd recommend that you not build it from 1/4" tube, now 1/4" c channel is a different story.


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## PSG-1

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=332643#p332643 said:


> BCOWANWHEELS » Yesterday, 19:51[/url]"]mine is going to be 1/4" completely



Should make one helluva trailer for a semi truck, but a little heavy for a boat. :mrgreen:

If you were building it from aluminum, you would need to use 1/4" since aluminum has 1/3 the strength of steel. But if you're building it from steel, it's way overkill for a boat, unless it's a really big boat.


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## BCOWANWHEELS

i,ve built a bunch of trailers in the past, my springs are rated for 1750 lbs each, my spring mounts are 1/4" thick so it isnt logical to mount it to 1/8" steel and it wont weigh a ton also as only the 3x3 tongue and the outside rails will all that is going to be 1/4. all x-members are 1/8". if you want a 1/8" trailer why dont you just pickup a used trailer there everywhere for cheaper than you can build one.


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## PSG-1

OK, I mis-interpreted you when you said you're building the whole thing out of 1/4" Using 1/8" for crossmembers and 1/4" for the longitudinal parts makes more sense, and won't be too awfully heavy.


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## Timbo89

Reason why I don't buy a used one is its going to have to be set up for my boat. Its going to have to be most likely re wired, new bearings spindles and going to cost me 200 to 300. All my metal is going to cost me less then 200 and that's having them do the cuts at 3 bucks a cut. I don't have a chop saw for metal. I like building things that I can take pride in and say hey I built it not bought it. Same was for when I built a S10 with fully rebuilt dana 60 king pin front axle and a 14 bolt full floating rear with disc conversion. Sat on 44inch tsl's and never once took it out. I got bored with it and sold it before I was done. I built a full plate front bumper for it out of 1/4 inch plate and it is heavy but stout. 

I wil be using some of it to fish plate some of the joints like where it v's to the tongue


Simple reason I like to build my own stuff if possible


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## BCOWANWHEELS

I understand,I also enjoy building things. it all started in 1964 when I built my first car. a T-bucket which i still have. the list is too long to tell everything. now I,am just a broken down old man and want to go fishing. enjoy the build as all you can do when its done is pull it around lol.
regards
bob


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## nbaffaro

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=332695#p332695 said:


> BCOWANWHEELS » Tue Oct 22, 2013 12:20 pm[/url]"], my spring mounts are 1/4" thick so it isnt logical to mount it to 1/8" steel




That hurt my brain. I don't see where you are getting that. 1/8" wall tube is really strong stuff. Some of that strength is from its shape. A spring mount has to be thicker because it is shaped differently and it has a 9/16th hole drilled through it. The logic of of attaching dissimilar thickness parts doesn't really hold up. 

To the OP, your on the right track. Only suggestion I might add it to see if you can't get the main frame sides bent. I have no idea on the cost but it might be something to look into.


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## Timbo89

Progress for today. We would have had the whole frame done but the place i went to didnt have the 3x3x3/16" in stock and has to order it. So far for what i bought today it was $172 that includes them cutting it. go mocked up the front to find out the angle we needed on the connecting end but going to wait and double check it before we cut. All but one measure came out exactly and it was 1/4" off was this measurement X everything else was spot on. Im ok with that everything was measuring at a 90 when i went back and checked all corners.


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## Timbo89




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## Timbo89

I have another picture but it will not let me post the picture it keeps saying size limit. i have resized it but it will says size limit. its just a picture of another welded corner


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## Timbo89




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## BCOWANWHEELS

them mig welds look good to me.......


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## Timbo89




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## Timbo89

Sorry I deleted the old ones and it messed them up.


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## Timbo89

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=332912#p332912 said:


> BCOWANWHEELS » 24 Oct 2013, 16:14[/url]"]them mig welds look good to me.......




Thanks. The welds have some etching on the sides a bit but nothing too serious. They are flat and hot. I did the curly q's since the c way was burning through on how hot I had it set at.


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## PSG-1

It's better to run a little hot than too cold when welding, to guarantee you're getting penetration with the welds, and not cold-lap. Looks like it's coming together. It will be a nice trailer when it's done.

Since you're dealing with plain steel, I would highly recommend a treatment of Ospho when you get it done, particularly in the areas of the welds, as this is where it will begin rusting first. Not sure if you're going to paint, or cold-galv the trailer, but regardless, you should cold galvanize the areas of the welds, as some added protection.


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## Timbo89

Yea I'm going to prime it with a clean metal primer and after that I'm going to tractor aupply and getting some tractor paint to give it a few coats of the durable paint instead of rattle bombs


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## PSG-1

Rattle bombs...LOL 

I refer to cans of spray paint as 'brain grenades' 

:mrgreen:


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## Timbo89

That they can be. I had my pops go get the 3x3 3/16" today that I ordered. A 7' piece is 48 lbs so 1/4 would be stupid heavy. I have a idea for routing the trailer wire but not sure if I wanna do it. My plan is to drill a hole through the cross bars and weld a small pipe through it for the wires to pass through and running down the side just put some of it spaced out every foot and run it through that. Or weld a flat washer end on end and run a grommet so it don't chafe the wire and short out


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## PSG-1

As long as you weld both sides solid where the pipe passes through the cross member, it shouldn't allow water intrusion into the cross member. You could always weld some 1/2 nuts every few feet along the underside of the longitudinal members of your frame and pass the wire through those, I've seen it done that way, even on factory trailers.


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## Timbo89




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## Timbo89




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## Timbo89

washers welded to the frame inner side.


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## PSG-1

That'll work! Nice looking MIG welds, too. 

Looks like it's coming right along.


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## Timbo89

Thank you sir. I'm self taught with advice from a buddy that can lay down some welds like crazy. I have to order my springs and get a 2x2 to extend my axle with and ill be ready to load the boat on once I get bunks on and transfer over the rollers


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## Timbo89

Alright I have my springs on and im getting ready to give it a coat of primer and black enamel paint form tractor supply. I am wondering on my bunk boards not sure if thats what they are called but pretty sure. Right now the bunk boards on the bottom support are 2x4s with 2" being on top skinny side up. I was wanting to go to a 2x6 and lay board flat instad of upright. Im going to do the cutting board deal or price the deck board thats like a synthetic board so i dont have to carpet and it makes it easy to launch/load. Thanks


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## PSG-1

Most bunk board for small boats are 2x4's with the flat side facing up. Unless your boat is much larger than 18 ft, you should be OK with that size lumber.

No go on the synthetic deck boards, they are not like lumber, they will warp and sag. Now, you could possibly put down a 2x4 and then put the synthetic deck board on top of that, then it should be fine.


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## Timbo89

Thanks. I thought I was someone on here with the fake boards. Riggt now it has 2x4s with the noat resting on the 2" part. 

So I can put the bunks 4" part facing up?


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## PSG-1

It's preferable to have the boat bearing against the wide part of the board, so the weight is spread out over a larger surface. In extreme cases, like, years of use, or having a lot of weight in the boat when you put it on the trailer, particularly if it's a thin hull, the skinny side would be prone to deforming the hull. Again, most of the factory-built trailers I have seen using 2x4's have the board with the flat side bearing against the hull.


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## Timbo89

Thanks for the info. 

Paint I'm using. This stuff has a 24hr dry time between coats. rolling it on sucks big ones and I'm going to look into a spray gun, turn my garage into a booth.


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## Timbo89

I got ahead of myself and am going to have to strip some primer off for my fenders once i get the extra funds and mount my tail light brackets. Got excited i was almost done and forgot some things. It happens hahaha. 

picture of the tounge welded on since i dont want holes in my tube. you can also see my ground studs i have one in the middle of the trailer for the amber marker lights. 2 in the back for the led tail lights and one in the front for the harness. 




what im going to use on the back so i have a point to tie down and keep the boat from bouncing around like it does now




bottom so you can see the washers for the wire to go through. once i get it done ill put grommet in it to save the wire.


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## PSG-1

Looking good! Those washers make a good place to run and secure wire. Another thing I've seen used to run wires is a small piece of EMT conduit, like 1/2" diameter, welded along the trailer, with the wires passed through that.


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## Timbo89

Sorry guys but had to put the build on hold until we get christmas taken care of.


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## RStewart

You're doing a great job. I'm starting the same project. Our trailers will be almost identical except mine will still be a tilt trailer.I'm also using 2x3x1/8 rectangle tubing. I wanted to use "c"channel, but I couldn't find it. At least not the type of "c"channel used to build my current trailer. I got 48'of the rectangle tubing for $65, but I had to buy both 24'sticks to get it that cheap. I'm like you,I like to build things. Plus in my area I couldn't buy the trailer cheaper than me building it & it will be made for my boat. Can't wait to see the finished product.


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## Timbo89

Well Christmas is done with and I'm still waiting on funds. Wife has been putting all extra funds into the nursery for our daughter that's due within the next two weeks. 

I did how ever get the safety chain welded on my light brackets welded on and the back anchors welded on for the tie down straps. Only thing left now is extend axle to fit the new trailer, paint, bunks, winch, jack, and wire the lights up.


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## Timbo89

Axle is built and let me tell ya a round shaft in a square tube is a pita to get straight. Have a new winch for it along with the jack. I bought all the stuff I needed to spray the paint but now I cant get off of work. I'm still building it but little by little.


I do have a question that i'm not sure of. I've had a few people tell me to drill a small hole into the bottom of the tube so that if any moisture was inside the tube it wouldn't rust from the inside out, and it would also not create moisture from the heat. My thing is that it would let in water and make it hard to find that small hole. 

Does anyone have anything on the above?


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## Timbo89

Tie down points for the rear




Bracktes for the led oval tail lights


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## shu2kill

nice work, very similar to what i havein mind for mine. 

how are you installing the bunks??


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## Timbo89

Im going to use the standard bolt on brackets so they can be adjustable still.


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## shu2kill

thanx, i opted for this:






i made them removeable but not adjustable, however by just adding several sets of holes for the bolt, it would be adjustable as well.


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## shu2kill

and, i also did this handle to help me lift it, thought i would share it. they sell things like that, but i already had the scrap material laying around.

https://www.amazon.com/Attwood-Trailer-Tongue-Lift-Handle/dp/B003EEV4LS

heres mine, also, i copied your nut idea for wiring the lights.


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## Timbo89

Looks good, I used the washers so i could use grommets in them so it dont strip the wires after so long and short anything out.

Ive made progress on painting finally. Sprayed a coat of primer sunday then today I sprayed a coat of matte black. Looks awesome i might say since this is the first time ive used a spray gun. Its pretty easy but in some spots i got a little close and caused some errors #-o I put the hardner in the matte black so it hardens up and it has a faster dry time instead of 24 to 48 hours. 

Ive got 2 maybe 3 more coats left then i can add the rollers, bunks, jack, fenders, and wire it up. :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: 

I may need to figure something else out due to over spray still getting over on the other side where i don't want it. but its better then what it would be. On to Pics :wink:


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## Timbo89




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## Timbo89

well I have another picture but ive resized it to 700x500 and this stupid limit will not let me post it. says Your images may only be up to 800 pixels wide? what gives?



https://i817.photobucket.com/albums/zz98/tim5161/20140731_184144_zpszih3kkil.jpg


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## Timbo89




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## Timbo89

soon as i tried to edit the picture to add this guy :roll: and said had to go smaller it popped back up saying same bs


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## Timbo89

Second coat of matte black. I have one more to go for 2 coats of primer and 3 coats of matte black.


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## Timbo89

Used this in the spray gun so i could get it to dry faster instead of 32 hours to 48. Now its dry in little less then 24


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## Timbo89

Cheap 15 dollar harbor freight hvlp gun with a 20oz hopper on it. Does pretty good for what i neeed. One word of advice do a complete tear down of the gun and clean the crappy silicone out that they seal it with.


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## Timbo89

26 gallon compressor does pretty good with the job. It kicks on maybe 3 times the whole time im spraying a quart of paint


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## Timbo89

Alot of traffic through my head but not alot of responses. Feedback is welcome. First boat ive had and trailer I have built Anything that I need to add or change????


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## Clint KY

I appreciate your thread. I redid my bunks, and plan to replace the axle hardware and paint it this winter. I like the advice on the Harbor Frieght gun as that is what I plan to use. What type of paint are you using? (never mind - I found it a page back).


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## Timbo89




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## Timbo89




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## Timbo89




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## Timbo89




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## lckstckn2smknbrls

Tailpipes?


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## Timbo89

LOL you got it. Cheaper then the kits out and all i have to do get a pvc pipe to slip over it and i have guides.


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## huntinfool

Looking good. Get a s trying line and get the hangers square. Mount the axle and you're set.


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## Timbo89

I have the axle hangers welded in place already just have to wait for my schedule and weather here in florida to work together but its not working too well. Axle needs one more coat of paint then ill put it under.

Thanks im trying but taking me longer then i wanted it to. Lights are all working and wired up. Still need to get some pvc pipe and bunk brackets with boards and i can get the boat back on it.


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## Timbo89

how tall is everyones guide poles i have mine set at 4'2"s off the frame. Is this too tall or is it just right


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## BrazosDon

To me it all depends on where you are launching your boat. I like the light to be just above the gunnels on your boat. Four to six inches and no more than 12in. I like a neat package, nothing wacky. Great looking trailer BTW.


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## Clint KY

To get the height of the guides right - hook the trailer to the truck - 
back it down the ramp you will use most of the time - 
can you see the tops of the guides when the trailer starts down the ramp?

Yes = tall enough - No = Nope, not tall enough.

One other thing - when you get it all done, take the boat to the ramp and back it down.
Just when the boat starts to float, get out of the truck and make a mark on the driver's side guide at the water level.
When you get it home and dried off, paint that mark so the next time you are backing the boat down the ramp you will know when the trailer is far enough back to launch or retrieve the boat.


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## Timbo89

Thanks. Ill leave them and if i have to ill get more pvc. one rame we hit is pretty steep so they would need to be alot taller. I need to order the bunk brackets and then the boat is back on. :mrgreen:


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## RStewart

Great job. I like the taillight brackets. I'm using the same lights & was going to inset them in the trailer but I like the way you did it better. The washers for the wiring is cool too.


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## Timbo89

Thank you sir.. This is the first outing with the new trailer and it was a boat ramp funny. I unhook the winch line because thats the same thing ive done a few other times at the same ramp and well i guess my new deign and bunks helped it alot. The dang thing slid right off the trailer and on the ramp about 9' away from the water. had to hook the winch back up and crank it back up. Me and my dad were about to fall over laughing so hard. Also learned i need one more roller where the front cross brace is because when loading the nose wants to hit it and makes loading back up a bit of a pain. pulls straight and no fuses popping so everything is water tight.


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