# These LED's in a Series or Parallel???



## Shoedawg (May 15, 2017)

Can I ran these LEDs in a series or do you run them in parallel?? 

https://www.oznium.com/led-modules

I am sure I can. It looks like they come prewired. Would I just keep connecting/soldering the LED's wires together until I reach my switch panel? I would like to run 5 LEDs off of one switch.


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## DaleH (May 15, 2017)

DC current requires a separate positive & negative lead run to each device. If you put 5 installed, your wiring would look like 'train tracks', one +, other -, where a 'cross' bridging the lines would be each LED. Switch off the positive run.


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## onthewater102 (May 15, 2017)

Parallel


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## Darryle (May 15, 2017)

You can run a duplex wire to the last one and solder tap into each wire at the desired installation point, you will have to remember to run shrink tubing onto the main lead prior to making the final connection. The lights use very little amperage so a 18ga - 22ga wire will be sufficient. 

1244 Atchafalaya Outdoor Designs W/ 12hp Copperhead


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## Shoedawg (May 15, 2017)

DaleH said:


> DC current requires a separate positive & negative lead run to each device. If you put 5 installed, your wiring would look like 'train tracks', one +, other -, where a 'cross' bridging the lines would be each LED. Switch off the positive run.




Sumtin' like this??



Would the + wire in the diagram run directly to the bottom + wire. I assume it does not tie into the - wire at all and just crosses over it. With such low amps these LEDS will be pulling, there should be no need for any additional hardware that needs to be installed with the parallel set up, right? Forgive my ignorance, but I am learning this electric thing on the fly as I work on the boat.


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## Shoedawg (May 15, 2017)

Darryle said:


> You can run a duplex wire to the last one and solder tap into each wire at the desired installation point, you will have to remember to run shrink tubing onto the main lead prior to making the final connection. The lights use very little amperage so a 18ga - 22ga wire will be sufficient.
> 
> 1244 Atchafalaya Outdoor Designs W/ 12hp Copperhead



Not sure what you mean by "You can run a duplex wire to the last one and solder tap into each wire at the desired installation point, you will have to remember to run shrink tubing onto the main lead prior to making the final connection."


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## Darryle (May 15, 2017)

Two wires connected to each other, like speaker wire, the actual term is two conductor, not duplex, I was thinking about something else when I typed that






1244 Atchafalaya Outdoor Designs W/ 12hp Copperhead


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## Shoedawg (May 16, 2017)

Darryle said:


> Two wires connected to each other, like speaker wire, the actual term is two conductor, not duplex, I was thinking about something else when I typed that
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Got it!! So would I set up my NAV and Anchor lights in parallel as well, if I want to be able to turn off the anchor light while underway but keep my NAV lights on?? I assume I may need to get a 3-way switch for achieving that effect.


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## Darryle (May 16, 2017)

You would have to wire them on separate circuits, or if the anchor light is removable, just take it down and stow it. 

1244 Atchafalaya Outdoor Designs W/ 12hp Copperhead


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## onthewater102 (May 16, 2017)

That's what I did with my boats - the switch controls the bow light, there is always power to the socket for the anchor light. Although - powering the anchor light off the switched power to the bow would prevent you from deploying the anchor light without also turning on your bow lights which I was almost ticketed for using a rowboat at night with a Coleman lantern for light...ECONN officer's tone changed drastically when he approached the boat close enough to see my grandfather was in the boat with my brother and I at the time.


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## DaleH (May 16, 2017)

Shoedawg said:


> So would I set up my NAV and Anchor lights in parallel as well, if I want to be able to turn off the anchor light while underway but keep my NAV lights on?? I assume I may *need to get a 3-way switch* for achieving that effect.


You want to buy a specific DPDT or Double Pole Double Throw (Center Off) switch. See drawing. In either switch position the all-around light is lit.


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## Shoedawg (May 16, 2017)

Ok!! Got it guys =D> Few more questions. Thanks for the awesome input. Now I just need to figure out my wire run lengths and gauge. Plus I need to know the total amps I will be drawing from each appliance on the run.
Is the formula for amps??: Watts / 12.6V = amps
When would I use this formula and how will it serve me?

I also got my ST Blade Fuse Block w/ 12 circuits and Negative Bus in yesterday from Blue Sea Systems. Seems to be of good quality.

I saw this has been posted around the forum before. I think from this chart I would have to double the wire length due to having to snake it around and through the boat. A 4' run may end up being a 8' run.



So based on the chart above, would I add up the TOTAL AMPS of each accessory (the LEDs) on the circuit and choose the amperage wire size (the gauge) along with the length needed or just use the single amp that one device will draw?? I would think just the single amp. Being LED it should not draw much amperage and a 16g wire should be sufficient.


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## DaleH (May 16, 2017)

Shoedawg said:


> Is the formula for amps?? Watts / 12.6V = amps. When would I use this formula and how will it serve me?


Yes. You use when you only know the wattage of an item, like typically a light, say for example a handheld spotlight that had a 55-watt lamp, which would just under 5-amps. Some items have starting voltage with a peak amp draw, so if I were fusing/protecting that item I'd probably use a 7.5 or 10 amp fuse. 

*Remember this ... the fuse protect the WIRING from burning - it is not their to protect the device, per se.* So in the example above, if i were powering that through an aux power socket, lie the old cigarette lighters, I'd wire it for a maximum amp draw of like 20-amps, so I could power anything in their with confidence ... and safety.



Shoedawg said:


> I saw this has been posted around the forum before. I think from this chart I would have to double the wire length due to having to snake it around and through the boat. A 4' run may end up being a 8' run. So based on the chart above, would I add up the TOTAL AMPS of each accessory (the LEDs) on the circuit and choose the amperage wire size (the gauge) along with the length needed or just use the single amp that one device will draw?


They way that chart works, is that for the ampacity of the wire, you need to know the TOTAL length of the circuit, which accounts for the run to and from the load (what you're powering) to the 12VDC source (battery or buss bar/fuse block). So yes, the length is doubled, 4' away means you calculate on a 8' circuit.

That chart tells you the maximum load (ampacity) for that gauge wiring for the given length.


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## Shoedawg (May 18, 2017)

Thanks Dale and the rest of ya for the help. I think I have a understanding of what needs to be done. Thanks again.


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