# 1962 Sea King Five Updated 10-30-08



## 12ftModder (Sep 13, 2008)

Well I got a deal today a friend actually found an outboard for me for free! Thats always a good thing, but I am wondering if it would be worth fixing. It Seems to have been sitting for quite some time. The motor is a 1962 Sea King 5hp (manufactured by Gale which is OMC) are parts for this easily available?


Heres a few pics of it before i start cleaning it up.


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## bassboy1 (Sep 13, 2008)

For the most part, that is similar to the '62 5.5 Johnny. So, parts are fairly available. There are minor powerhead differences, but the gearcase should almost be an exact replica.


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## 12ftModder (Sep 13, 2008)

thanks for the quick reply bassboy.

So it would be worth fixing then as the gearcase seem to be ok as far as prop spins freely when i n N and locks when in either fwd or rev i have spun the motor just a 1/4 revo so not locked up and felt like there was comp building up. what would be good to put in the cylinders to make sure no dmg is done when i do comp test. I just dont want to spend a lot of $$ on it, as i had just missed a deal on a 03 15hp Gamefisher thats still looked as if brand new with all paperwork for $500!


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## SlimeTime (Sep 13, 2008)

1st thing you need to do is run a compression test, and give it an all-over visual. Drain any old fluids as well.

ST


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## ben2go (Sep 13, 2008)

Those motors are usually restored.So,I'd guess that parts are available or there's an aftermarket for them.Try this site for more info. https://www.aomci.org/index.htm


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## 12ftModder (Sep 14, 2008)

Well it looks like it deff will need a new propshaft seal. The motor has good compression, with a weak looking spark though. Contacts look a little corroded and dont have a puller to take the flywheel off to get at them yet.

would part# 18-2022 be the correct propshaft oil seal that I need to replace? seen leaking in the picture


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## 12ftModder (Oct 15, 2008)

Well the old Sea King is slowly coming along, Should have it running this weekend, still waiting on new powerhead base gasket,impeller. Carb has been rebuilt, new plugs, wires, points&condensers. I pulled the midsection apart to clean and paint. Just need to do the top and bottom of the cowling still.

Ready For Primer





Etching Primer Done





I will post more pics when finished


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## 12ftModder (Oct 15, 2008)

Here is what the PH base gasket looked like when i removed the powerhead.


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## ben2go (Oct 15, 2008)

I can't wait for the final results.Got me wanting to restore the old 5HP Gamefisher. :lol:


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## dedawg1149 (Oct 15, 2008)

starting to look good


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## 12ftModder (Oct 17, 2008)

Well I got most of it painted today, only thing left is the top cowling. Need more paint stripper. I ended up using Krylon rattle cans in Hunter Green satin finish, over the duplicolor green self etching primer.


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## ben2go (Oct 17, 2008)

Same color as my Gamefisher.Looks good.Can't wait to see it hanging on a transom.


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## Waterwings (Oct 17, 2008)

Looks good!


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## dedawg1149 (Oct 17, 2008)

good job looks good =D>


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## 12ftModder (Oct 17, 2008)

Still waiting for Lower Unit Seal Kit before I put the lower unit back on which means the powerhead must stay off. Good thing though since the oil line for the main bearings broke and needs replaced. So I wont be getting her running this weekend as I thought I would. Heres the progress for the day.

original front label




Ready for the powerhead and lower unit.


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## SVNET (Oct 18, 2008)

Quick questions,

Looking at your fuel pump, the lower hose seems to go to the gas tank and the upper house to the carb right ?






Man, you have a big project on your hand... I am curious to see how you come out after everything I have 
been going through with mine...

Keep us posted.


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## ben2go (Oct 18, 2008)

My motor is striped,boxed,and ready for paint.What address do I send it to along with my money? :LMFAO: 

That's gonna be one nice motor.


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## 12ftModder (Oct 18, 2008)

SVNET said:


> Quick questions,
> 
> Looking at your fuel pump, the lower hose seems to go to the gas tank and the upper house to the carb right ?
> 
> ...



Yes that would be correct, it is marked which side up and in/out.





ben2go said:


> My motor is striped,boxed,and ready for paint.What address do I send it to along with my money? :LMFAO:
> 
> That's gonna be one nice motor.



It should be shipped to your garage or favorite place to work on things, and do it yourself and save that money for something else :LMFAO:

Thanks, I am happy you all like it so far. I think its gonna turn out great!


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## 12ftModder (Oct 18, 2008)

Today I plan on getting the powerhead put back together, and have it ready to drop on the midsection once i get the lower unit finished.

Pics






Rebuilt Ignition




Rebuilt Carb




View of where the oil line broke


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## 12ftModder (Oct 18, 2008)

Powehead is back together ready to put back on midsection when i finish the lower unit. Minus the fuel pump putting new diaphram in it.

Heres the bare powerhead, was close to just doing a total rebuild, both cylinders showed 75psi compression ( I dont have the service manual for it, so Im not positive what its supposed to be, but from some of the other gale manuals I looked at it ranges a bit... 1969 6hp = 55-65psi... 1969 9hp = 75-90psi... ) so I hope its close and dont need to re-ring or bore it.






Stator Plate with New Ignition back on. (same coils that were on it)





Flywheel On





Power Head Back Together Again!










Still Need To Clean and Paint The Top





I Cant Wait To Get Her Running!


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## 12ftModder (Oct 23, 2008)

Got the top cowling ready to paint if only the wind would die down. I got my lower unit seal kit and got it the unit apart and cleaned up. Looks like I have ran into 1 problem though, the new shift rod seal (o-ring) is under a brass bushing that looks to be pressed in. And dont see how i can remove it, would like to see the tool thats used for it.

Anyway heres some more pics.

Top Cowling Ready For Paint











Lower Unit with new seal kit





My Shift Rod Seal Problem





If you have any ideas on how to do this I would like to hear them.

Thanks


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## ben2go (Oct 23, 2008)

A small slide hammer with an adjustable bearing race remover or a brass drift/punch from the back side,if it's open.


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## 12ftModder (Oct 24, 2008)

I guess i should have showed the other side. The hole on the inside looks to be the same size in diameter as the hole in the bushing.
















It looks bigger here because its at a slight angle.





After looking at it more the inside hole may be just a hair larger than the bushing. Now just to find something the correct diameter thats long enuff. I guess I need to get a dia on the shift shaft and go from there.


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## 12ftModder (Oct 28, 2008)

Ok well I got it back together tonight. Gonna get it running in the tank tomorrow at my friends boat shop. I would post some pics but the girlfriend took the camera, so I will post some when I get it back again.


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## Zum (Oct 28, 2008)

Your diffenitly going to know your motor inside and out.
Nice job,hope it works great for you.


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## 12ftModder (Oct 29, 2008)

It Runs Again! But the exaust seemed to get a bit warm so I will need to pull the powerhead off again and check for any blockage. It pumps water very well and idled nicely, it revved good also once the carb was adjusted, now just to fix the heat problem and get it on the boat for the load test.


This is Video from my Cell Phone

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## evattman (Oct 29, 2008)

Looking good !! And sounding good!
Are you going to paint the cowl green too?
Can't wait to see it finished.


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## 12ftModder (Oct 29, 2008)

Yes, The top cowling will be the same hunter green as the rest, but I will be leaving the handle original (distressed red). I have it primered but the weather hasnt been the best to paint outside. Would have done it the same day as primer but as I finished that and walked away I got stung by a wasp that landed on the rattle can and didnt realize it till I gripped the can with all fingers to shake and got zapped. Called it a day at that point, and still havent finished it yet. Soon tho as I was wanting to get it running more than painting the cowling :lol: 

cell phone pic


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## 12ftModder (Oct 29, 2008)

OK well I pulled the Powerhead off this morning and then the exaust cover plate. I didnt find any blockage but it had a very thick layer of carbon built up on the inside of the plate which I cleaned off, blew air thru the water passages using the compressor to make sure they were clear and put it back together again. All I need now is a fuel tank, line and primer bulb. Oh and a new cotter pin for the prop. Then its time for the lake test on the boat.

Heres How it Looks Now ( Cell Phone Pics )


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## ben2go (Oct 29, 2008)

Looks great.Nice work.


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## Zum (Oct 29, 2008)

Looks real good.


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## Waterwings (Oct 29, 2008)

Nice work!


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## FishinNC27549 (Oct 29, 2008)

Just wondered by what you ment be the exhuast gets warm? The water coming out?


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## FishinNC27549 (Oct 29, 2008)

Looks pretty sweet. I'll take one please.


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## 12ftModder (Oct 29, 2008)

Thanks Everyone  




FishinNC27549 said:


> Just wondered by what you ment be the exhuast gets warm? The water coming out?


I meant the exaust plate on the side of the motor.


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## dedawg1149 (Oct 29, 2008)

nice job =D>


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## SVNET (Oct 29, 2008)

So how did you managed to get the pressed ring out in order to replace the bushing ?

And how did you get the ring pressed back in.


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## 12ftModder (Oct 30, 2008)

I ended up going and buying a 1ft piece of stainless steel round bar and paid to have it machined, I brought the unit and seal along with me so I could explain what I was doing and how/why I needed the bar machined. The guy ended up taking my unit back in the shop and brought it back out with the brass bushing out. So I never did my my ss bar machined. Cost was $12 and I have the 1ft long 5/16 round bar. This was done at 4pm on a friday afternoon so I think $12 was cheap to get it done. It was hammered back in using a seal driver.


Motor is on the boat, new 3gal moeller tank and johnson/evinrude 8ft fuel line and primer bulb. Lake testing thursday afternoon is planned.


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## 12ftModder (Oct 30, 2008)

Well I took it out today for the lake test. I am pleased to say that everything went great! It took a few pulls to get it started the first time, had to find its sweet spot for throttle but once it was running and I got the air/fuel mix set it ran great at idle and wot. And started easily on every pull thereafter. I ran it on/off @ idle and wot for about and hour and it burned possibly 1gallon of fuel mixxed at 24:1 Will take it out again today when I get someone to go with for the extra weight.

And heres a pic and some videos







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[youtube]<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="https://www.youtube.com/v/FzGaj_eK5LM&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="https://www.youtube.com/v/FzGaj_eK5LM&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>[/youtube]


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## dedawg1149 (Oct 30, 2008)

=D> congrats looks like it is running great,it sure beats the trolling motor dont it


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## ben2go (Oct 30, 2008)

Sweet.Good work. =D>


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## SVNET (Oct 30, 2008)

Well,

I always admire people like you who can take a project from start to finish and do it well, most definitely much better
out come then I had.

Did do anything to the power head, like the pistons and had to redo the engine timing or anything like that ?

That looks like a really old motor, did you get those parts locally or online ?

Congrats,
Regards.


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## Jim (Oct 30, 2008)

Boat looks awesome...Exactly how I want mine. :beer:


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## 12ftModder (Oct 31, 2008)

Thanks again everyone :beer: 



SVNET said:


> Did do anything to the power head, like the pistons and had to redo the engine timing or anything like that ?



I did not open up the powerhead (not even the head off) only the exaust plate to make sure there wasnt any blockage. I did replace the points, condensers, plug wires and plugs. I set the points with a feeler gauge to what was stamped on the flywheel .020.. Had carb rebuilt by a friend that runs a boat shop which consisted of taking it apart and soaking it in his tank and putting it back together with a new carb kit. I also replaced all seals in the lower unit. And new water pump kit (impeller,wear plate, powerhead base gasket, crankshaft oil seal(cork) and o-ring.



SVNET said:


> That looks like a really old motor, did you get those parts locally or online ?



All parts were purchased locally @ Napa after calling them with part # from their online SE catalog and ordering it. Except the water pump kit which I got from https://www.vintageoutboard.com/ because I didnt know the part #'s for the gasket, seals, since i dont have any manuals for it. I could have purchased parts cheaper thru
https://www.marineengine.com/parts/parts.html but I opted for the next day pickup @ Napa

Total approx cost of parts and paint $150
Tank, Tank Fitting, Fuel Line, and 1q of Johnson/Evinrude Premium 2 cycle oil and 3g of gas= $82.50
Bringing A 46 year old outboard back to life = Priceless

This did end up costing a bit more than expected, but was worth it just for the experience of bringing a 46 year old motor back to life.
:beer: \/


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## SVNET (Oct 31, 2008)

Awesome...

You did a good job, it looks clean, it seems to be running great and that there is left is to enjoy it, put some hours on it...

I do wish that I knew someone that would help me with mine, but at $95/hr shop rate, I think I will stick to trolling motor for now.

What kind of seat pedestal do you have, they seem to be at the right height...

I got the standard ones at walmart but they ended up being to high, it almost feels as you can tip the narrow boat of mine by seating so high, but still I would like to left the seat at least 3in off the benches...

Happy boating, happy fishing....

Take care.


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## 1962 sea king (Dec 7, 2010)

Hi all,

Have same Sea king 5hp outboard and was wondering how you removed the flywheel to get to condensers.

Thanks alot


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## 89Suburban (Dec 7, 2010)

Nice ressurection there chief, and good pics and descriptions!


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## Pappy (Dec 7, 2010)

To answer your question on the shift shaft bushing tool. It is a special tool. There is a small diameter change in the long rod used to drive out the bushing. That tool is being reproduced by a man named Frank Robb, in Florida. You can get ahold of him by going to AOMCi.org and asking about the tool in the Ask-a-Member section. I have one and the tool was pretty inexpensive. Those old shift rod o-rings always leak! Since you have brought one old classic back into service I am betting you will bring more back. It's kind of an addiction!!


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