# My Walleye Project - 70's Sea Nymph SS160 1668



## jvanhees (Mar 24, 2013)

Hi and thanks to all of you for your build threads!!!!!...as I have been learning a ton so far. The wealth of knowledge on this sight is invaluable! I am a new member, Jared, and have just picked up my new walleye boat...a 70's Sea Nymph SS160 1668. 

Picked this up on CL for $600 with the trailer, not a bad deal but it is gutted fully and in need of a total rebuild. Kinda glad it is already gutted after some of the threads I have seen so far....I think it is a pretty solid boat, and is just what I am looking for to walleye fish. I am not sure of the year, as the tag and registration do not specify......ideas? 

This boat came with the 2 original live wells, the rod locker peice that fold down over the rods, the side console piece, and another piece I am not sure of. I will also be selling my bass/duck mod v to fund this project . Below are a couple pics to start... thank you in advance for all of your help!

Things I would like to add/modify:

-Front deck with storage for 2 batteries and livewell
-New foot controlled trolling motor
-Side console for console motor - Or maybe tiller I am not sure yet
-New transem
-Restore the trailer
-Outboard - 25 HP ish
-Pedestals / Seats
-New Floor & Foam
-Truck bed liner, gluvit, carpet - not sure
-Radio, aux input, lights
-Bilge
-I am sure there will be more. I would like to take my time on this, and do everything the correct way...which is why I am here! Any and all input encouraged.


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## jvanhees (Mar 24, 2013)

Well i wanted to see the bottom so my dad and i got it off the trailer today. Boat has all of this crap on it from someone trying to seal it..it is all of the brown stuff.....


so we started burning and scraping it off



The seal here (above) does leak, as I found little ice sicles here....how would you go about sealing this? Welding? 5200? This is the back of the boat where the drain plug is. I will need to re-seal this entire area, along with the front keel.


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## jvanhees (Mar 24, 2013)

We found a couple spots that will need welding.




And the trailer


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## jvanhees (Mar 24, 2013)

First couple questions...what is the best way to get all of this junk off of the seals & rivets? a stripper product or heat & wire brush?

Once this is all removed, how would you reseal it.


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## Pweisbrod (Mar 24, 2013)

The rear area near drain plug, and bow any other area that doesn't clearly need welding: I would re-buck those rivets. there's lots of info on here about that, search it out. basically somebody holds a sledgehammer tight to the rivet on the outside and the guy on the inside whacks it with an air hammer or a small hammer, that's my understanding anyway. I'd also goop it up with 3m 5200 or weld it. it looks like you have a torch in the picture, so hts 2000 might be a good option instead of paying a welder. Totally your call. 

looks like a great project. my boat will be a part time walleye rig as well, so I love the walleye builds. 

Good luck, I'll be poking my head in every so often!


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## hsiftac (Mar 25, 2013)

as already said, rebuck first and see how that helps. A couple options for resealing are gluvit and steelflex. A lot of people apply gluvit to the inside of the boat on the seams and rivets. Steelflex is usually applied on the outside (a lot of people on here use steelflex) but I believe it takes a bit of prep work.


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## walleyejoe (Mar 25, 2013)

jvanhees said:


> First couple questions...what is the best way to get all of this junk off of the seals & rivets? a stripper product or heat & wire brush?
> 
> Once this is all removed, how would you reseal it.


I used a wire wheel on a grinder .It took every thing right off fairly easy. I didn't really have any real bad spots to fix. I just used self etching prime then painted it .


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## jvanhees (Mar 25, 2013)

Pweisbrod, thanks for the input...I will try the rivet rebucking, why not. Does that aluminum weld rod stuff really work? I have read a bunch online about how it is a gimmick/cant get the surrounding metal hot enough/sucks...? Alumaloy for instance, they make it look so easy in their videos. Btw, I like your lund, and will be watching that build!


Hsiftac, I will be putting something down on the inside and outside. There is alot of info on the gluvit and steelflex on this site, just not sure (from inexperiece) if that will be enough for a "seal" to waterproof the inside of the boat? Of if you are just "helping" leaky rivets? PLease advise here.


Walleye Joe, I wasnt going to coat the entire outside of the boat, just rivets/seams below the WL and new paint above the water....but yours looks really nice, and now I think I may. Once I apply whatever I will use: 5200/gluvit/steel flex, going over it with a primer and paint may not be a bad idea to protect it more? Or maybe I dont need to? either way it looks much better than the bottom of mine...


Thanks for all the input. I also found out that the SS160 was only made in '76, 77, 78...narrowing it down.


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## walleyejoe (Mar 25, 2013)

jvanhees said:


> Pweisbrod, thanks for the input...I will try the rivet rebucking, why not. Does that aluminum weld rod stuff really work? I have read a bunch online about how it is a gimmick/cant get the surrounding metal hot enough/sucks...? Alumaloy for instance, they make it look so easy in their videos. Btw, I like your lund, and will be watching that build!
> 
> 
> Hsiftac, I will be putting something down on the inside and outside. There is alot of info on the gluvit and steelflex on this site, just not sure (from inexperiece) if that will be enough for a "seal" to waterproof the inside of the boat? Of if you are just "helping" leaky rivets? PLease advise here.
> ...


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## jvanhees (Mar 25, 2013)

Well, took Joe's advice. Went to Harbor Freight and bought a angle grinder and cup wire brush...will be attacking the old sealant asap. Might throw some paint thinner on there a day ahead of time...what the heck


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## jvanhees (Mar 26, 2013)

Ok, so I think I have an order of things that are going to be done first...yell it me if I seem out of order.

1) Strip & wirebrush bottom of boat completely clean
2) Get obvious cracks welded
3) Leak test for rivets that need rebucking (maybe switch 2 & 3)
4) Rebuck the rivets that leaked, and leak test again
5) Drill out remaining leaking rivets and replace with new pop rivets & 5200
6) Leak test once more
7) Steel flex the entire bottom up the bumper ribs on the sides of the boat
8) Move to interior - which may include Gluv-it or somthing over the rivets....not sure yet

I really just want to do this right so I never have to worry about it.


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## walleyejoe (Mar 26, 2013)

jvanhees said:


> Ok, so I think I have an order of things that are going to be done first...yell it me if I seem out of order.
> 
> 1) Strip & wirebrush bottom of boat completely clean
> 2) Get obvious cracks welded
> ...


Sounds good to me .Let me know how the steel flex works out I almost used it :mrgreen:


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## PitFishin' (Mar 26, 2013)

Well this just made my day! first off :WELCOME: I believe we may have the same boat, which i haven not been able to find another one that is just like mine. The title says mines a '76 but I really do not know. do you have any pics of the inside? if so id really like to see them even tho you said it was stripped already. also what do the livewells look like. mine didn't have any in it when i bought it, and that's what I'm trying to figure out now. you can check out my thread, but its not up to date. I gave 1000 for mine, it came with a 80's 70hp merc, and a 46# foot controlled motorguide. I started stripping it as soon as I got it home. I just used cup brushes on a grinder, I think i may have went thru 4 or 5 after doing the inside and the bottom. then i steelflexed it, still might use gluvit on the inside. I didn't have any keel damage, but I had 178 holes to weld shut in the hull where someone shot screws thru to carry the decks they put in. I tried the alumilloy with no success, it kept warping everything before it was hot enough to do anything so i gave up. we used a tig welder. piece of advice if your going to weld, use a piece of copper as a backer it works wonders filling holes.


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## jvanhees (Mar 26, 2013)

PitFishin' said:


> Well this just made my day! first off :WELCOME: I believe we may have the same boat, which i haven not been able to find another one that is just like mine. The title says mines a '76 but I really do not know. do you have any pics of the inside? if so id really like to see them even tho you said it was stripped already. also what do the livewells look like. mine didn't have any in it when i bought it, and that's what I'm trying to figure out now. you can check out my thread, but its not up to date. I gave 1000 for mine, it came with a 80's 70hp merc, and a 46# foot controlled motorguide. I started stripping it as soon as I got it home. I just used cup brushes on a grinder, I think i may have went thru 4 or 5 after doing the inside and the bottom. then i steelflexed it, still might use gluvit on the inside. I didn't have any keel damage, but I had 178 holes to weld shut in the hull where someone shot screws thru to carry the decks they put in. I tried the alumilloy with no success, it kept warping everything before it was hot enough to do anything so i gave up. we used a tig welder. piece of advice if your going to weld, use a piece of copper as a backer it works wonders filling holes.




Pit thanks for the welcome and the good advise about what you have done/tried! I'll get some pics of the inside.. Also got ur PM. That is a lot of holes.


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## Flat Bottom (Mar 27, 2013)

Hey man, great looking start you have there, if re bucking the rivets doesnt seal her up I would recommend jb weld over leaking rivets, hell I would just put jb weld on em period clean the area well and just put about a quarter size covering on each rivet. I swear by the stuff. You can use it on cracks or whatever, sometimes you have to be creative in your application like building little dams to pool it up where you want it etc... it has yet to let me down.


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## shawnfish (Mar 27, 2013)

have you filled the boat with water while on the trailer to see where all the leaks are??? after you get all that crap off the boat I would suggest trailering it and fill it up so you got a better idea of what your dealing with leak wise and start from there. from what I see you got your work cut out for ya but like you said just take your time and weigh all your options so you don't have to make changes 3 different times to get it the way you want it like I did because I rushed and didn't think a few things out like I should have because I was excited to be done, take ya a lil longer but its all worth it when your done and you can stand back and look at it and say to yourself " I did that" and feel proud! good luck man....


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## jvanhees (Mar 28, 2013)

Flat Bottom said:


> Hey man, great looking start you have there, if re bucking the rivets doesnt seal her up I would recommend jb weld over leaking rivets, hell I would just put jb weld on em period clean the area well and just put about a quarter size covering on each rivet. I swear by the stuff. You can use it on cracks or whatever, sometimes you have to be creative in your application like building little dams to pool it up where you want it etc... it has yet to let me down.



Thanks FB, I could get creative and use that stuff....but how long do you think that would last? I am thinking a more permanent fix...unless that lasts a while...I just dont want to have to be doing this again in a couple years ya know? I have never replaced rivets...but am thinking I will learn. Guess it all depends on how many are leaking.



shawnfish said:


> have you filled the boat with water while on the trailer to see where all the leaks are??? after you get all that crap off the boat I would suggest trailering it and fill it up so you got a better idea of what your dealing with leak wise and start from there. from what I see you got your work cut out for ya but like you said just take your time and weigh all your options so you don't have to make changes 3 different times to get it the way you want it like I did because I rushed and didn't think a few things out like I should have because I was excited to be done, take ya a lil longer but its all worth it when your done and you can stand back and look at it and say to yourself " I did that" and feel proud! good luck man....



Thanks Shawn! I have not done this yet...but that is what I meant by leak testing...exactly. I have thought about a bunch of different layouts so far...and like them each in their own way..but for now just need to concentrate on sealing the thing. Hope to work on it this weekend a bit. Was supposed to last night, but the fiance' got in the way of that one. :shock:


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## jvanhees (Mar 28, 2013)

Well we flipped the boat back over. While I used the torch to clean off PO's JB weld job on the rear bottom rivets, I realized I probably shouldn't have as there is the factory sealant used between the rivets I could have ruined/melted with the torch. Learned that on this site....but after a driveway sloped rear 1/2 leak test....the rear rivets are all good. I will be doing another on level ground hopefully this weekend to test the front rivets. Anyhow here are some pics of the inside of the boat...pretty in tact still.


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## walleyejoe (Mar 29, 2013)

Looks like you got a pretty solid structure to build off of. Do you have a lay out on what your gona to do yet? When I had my boat at the point where yours is... I changed my mind on what i wanted to do 10 times. #-o Good luck nice walleyes btw :fishing:


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## jvanhees (Apr 1, 2013)

Well did a good leak test Friday evening... :/ besides the crack in the front, found the rest of the leaks. Found 1 other crack, all the holes for live wells and bilge need new seals, rear bottom seal by plug needs some sealing, and probably 30 rivets... More leaking than I had thought...


Shoved a rag over the main crack


This crack needs welding and leaks a lot 





Those small ones are from oil 



Now here is the main shit area... All marker lines are leaky rivets or seals 



View attachment 1
]]]


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## jvanhees (Apr 1, 2013)

The large red circle is the main crack, and will be tig welded. The small red circle is the other crack I found...much smaller but will still need welding. The green circle is to show the that riveted seam..and it leaks alot across the whole seam..even with the junk from the PO.






The blue rectangle shows the main problem area....how would you fix this? 

1) Do I weld the 2 cracks, replace each rivet and seal with steeflex over top of it all? Will that be enough? 

2) Weld the entire seal where the rivets are now all the way around the rectangle piece of aluminum(edge where marker lines point to), and also replace the rivets inside the welds...then steelflex? 

3) Form a new piece of aluminum to go over what is currently there, extend wider by an inch on each side, and fully weld it in...covering over the entire area with a new peice of metal.

Need some advise here! :?


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## Flat Bottom (Apr 1, 2013)

Hey man, as far as jb weld is concerned, if you do it right it will probably outlast whatever its on. Huge chunks of the cavitation plate on my 140hp suzuki was busted off when I got it, I rebuilt it with an alluminum plate bolted to the underside and jbweld formed and sanded to near factory on the top, that was about 3 years ago. All the rivets on the underside of my 14ft jon weredone about 3 or more years ago still no leaks. A hole in the head plate of my 15 horse mariner was plugged and about a 3inch broken piece of the block on the same engine was re-molded a year or so ago and still working great. It really is amazing stuff so long as you take your time and let it set.


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## walleyejoe (Apr 2, 2013)

Looks like you have your work cut out for you. Its hard to say what the best thing to do is .Its probly gona take a little trial and error . I think I'd try to weld what you can and reset and seal the rivets .


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## jvanhees (Apr 2, 2013)

Thanks Guys!! I will have to give that some thought, and also see what some others have to say as well. Was there a special type of JB weld to use FB?


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## Wayloncash (Apr 2, 2013)

I don't know if this will help, but i thought it was really cool. My buddy gave me a 15 ft v bottom i dont know the manufacturer or any of that. The rivets dont look great you can see where there could be potential leaks. They dont look awfully bad either, BUT... he rhino lined the inside of it you know spray on bed liner. Man it looks sweet get some pictures up this weekend. AND not a single leak whatsoever. I thought that was a really cool idea.


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## Flat Bottom (Apr 3, 2013)

jvanhees said:


> Thanks Guys!! I will have to give that some thought, and also see what some others have to say as well. Was there a special type of JB weld to use FB?




I use regular jb weld, they have jb kwik that dries faster, and water weld that can be applied wet or under water... the regular stuff is the strongest. It takes a while to set, check out their website, they have a lot of great info on there


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## jvanhees (Apr 5, 2013)

Well been tearing into the hull a bit this week. Removing leaking rivets, prepping weld areas for the welder, and trying to clean off the rest of the hull for primer/steelflex eventually...but having a hard time. Been using heat, grinder/wirebrush, scrapers, acetone and none are working to well. Thinking of trying a stripper next. I want it to be all bare aluminum before I put anything down....





Whatever epoxy stuff was used all over the boat is a bear to get off... Wirebrush barely doing it(just turns it black)



Some JB weld all over this rear seam... Which is holding up nice. I think you may be onto something FB...may use this more before primer on rivets in the rear here


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## simbelle (Apr 5, 2013)

Do yourself a favor ( and I don't mean to be-little anyone else s opinion); But if your planing on keeping that boat for any time; Lay off the JB Weld. It will hold for a while, but I guarantee it will eventually fail in this application. The Cracks if yo don't want to pay a welder, use aluminium patch, rivets and a good amount of 5200 and you'll never have another issue with it. The bottom of the transom is fine I guess with the JB Weld on the outside since your going to Steelflex over it (I just hope with the cold waters you run in it doesn't just pop /crack under rhe flex but I really don't have any idea since I'm a Southern Boy.) I used 5200 from the caulking gun on my inside Transom seam waited 3 days covered it with Gluvit and then truck bed liner. It's hard as rock on the outside but I know it's still pliable
underneath,( you can omit the Gluvit). dip your rivet in an epoxy sealant before filling the holes ( West Marine G-Flex would work well, but I'm sure even 5200 would work if covered with Steelflex later.

I am no expert as you can tell by my amateur advise, just hate to see you get your feet wet or loose fishing time.


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## jvanhees (Apr 5, 2013)

Great info! Thank you... I appreciate any and all opinions and experiences!!!


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## smackdaddy53 (Apr 6, 2013)

Try a wire wheel on a grinder for prepping for welding and generally for cleaning up areas that are tough to get to (around rivets, in tight corners etc)...lookin good!


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## Flat Bottom (Apr 6, 2013)

Looking good so far!


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## jvanhees (Apr 12, 2013)

After about 3 hours of grinding/drilling with wire brushes, I have the bottom done. I still need to hit each rivet again with a cup brush to be safe... This was zero fun  but hey it's almost over...just need to do the sides yet and it's on to primer. My HF grinder didn't make it through the night ...surprise! Shoulda paid the extra 10 bucks for the warranty...


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## walleyejoe (Apr 12, 2013)

jvanhees said:


> After about 3 hours of grinding/drilling with wire brushes, I have the bottom done. I still need to hit each rivet again with a cup brush to be safe... This was zero fun  but hey it's almost over...just need to do the sides yet and it's on to primer. My HF grinder didn't make it through the night ...surprise! Shoulda paid the extra 10 bucks for the warranty...
> View attachment 2
> View attachment 1


You burnt your grinder up :shock: What brand was is ? They should stand behide it if you had just bought it .. Also I found out you only need a light coat of self etching primer . Don't put it on to heavy It's pretty gritty. I'd love to come up there fishing But ive got to many other trips plan for now . Going up to Lake Mich Salmon fishin next month . Crappies r startig to bit here . :fishing: :mrgreen:


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## jvanhees (Apr 12, 2013)

walleyejoe said:


> You burnt your grinder up :shock: What brand was is ? They should stand behide it if you had just bought it .. Also I found out you only need a light coat of self etching primer . Don't put it on to heavy It's pretty gritty. I'd love to come up there fishing But ive got to many other trips plan for now . Going up to Lake Mich Salmon fishin next month . Crappies r startig to bit here . :fishing: :mrgreen:




Chicago Electric - was 28 bucks, and they offered a warranty.... It always ran hot, but this time it didnt turn back on :roll: 

Where are you going out of for Salmon?


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## jvanhees (Apr 12, 2013)

Just got off the phone with Jerry at Fasco Epoxies (steel flex), what a great dude. VERY helpful. =D> 

No need for primer. I just need to have the areas welded that need welding, and order the SF, then I will be almost done on the bottom. Going to replace some rivets and leak test once more after the welds.. but before SF for any significant leaks.


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## walleyejoe (Apr 12, 2013)

jvanhees said:


> walleyejoe said:
> 
> 
> > You burnt your grinder up :shock: What brand was is ? They should stand behide it if you had just bought it .. Also I found out you only need a light coat of self etching primer . Don't put it on to heavy It's pretty gritty. I'd love to come up there fishing But ive got to many other trips plan for now . Going up to Lake Mich Salmon fishin next month . Crappies r startig to bit here . :fishing: :mrgreen:
> ...


Mich City.


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## PitFishin' (Apr 12, 2013)

looking good!


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## Flat Bottom (Apr 12, 2013)

I burt up a chicago electric grinder in about 5 minutes when I was scuffing my boat up lol


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## tcampbell011 (Apr 13, 2013)

Hey did you get a price on the steelfelx? I'm going to be ordering some soon and was wondering how much it costs.


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## jvanhees (Apr 14, 2013)

Flat Bottom said:


> I burt up a chicago electric grinder in about 5 minutes when I was scuffing my boat up lol


Sounds about right....darn



tcampbell011 said:


> Hey did you get a price on the steelfelx? I'm going to be ordering some soon and was wondering how much it costs.


$46/gallon plus $8 colorant for the basic steelflex I am doing.

I finished up wirebrushing thursday, and now the boat has some oxidation? all over it...not sure if I have to polish it all up again before I SF, but it is a coat of crap over the aluminum now...is that a big deal?


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## PitFishin' (Apr 15, 2013)

i did the teflon steelflex, and i think it was $126 for a gallon, shipped...


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## jvanhees (Apr 19, 2013)

Well, just waiting for my welder still...to have a good night to seal er up [-o< 


I may just start working on my trailer in the meantime. Thinking of renting a sand blaster for hte rusty frame...or may just rough it up and paint it.


While waiting for new tires at Wallyworld today, I spent too much money on fishing/boating equipment. Picked up some transom tie downs, some bearing caps, and other stuff for the garage/fishing this weekend.


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## bigwave (Apr 19, 2013)

You will get there, heck I spent over a year on mine...... #-o


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## PitFishin' (Apr 23, 2013)

im working on 2 years....  everything has to be just right. besides ive got my lil 9' plastic bass tracker that works just fine for now. lookin good jvanhees, im worried your gonna pass me ha ha


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## DOBSONFLY (May 12, 2013)

jvanhees said:


> While waiting for new tires at Wallyworld today, I spent too much money on fishing/boating equipment. Picked up some transom tie downs, some bearing caps, and other stuff for the garage/fishing this weekend.



Guilty also.... I graze too much when I am there and waiting on my girlfriend. Pretty common to end up with a cart full from sporting goods :roll:

:idea: Just food for thought on your trailer, I am sucker for 4" grinder with a 60 or 120 grit flap disc. Pretty much I figure if a man has a hammer and a grinder with flap discs we can do it all!


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## jvanhees (May 13, 2013)

DOBSONFLY said:


> jvanhees said:
> 
> 
> > While waiting for new tires at Wallyworld today, I spent too much money on fishing/boating equipment. Picked up some transom tie downs, some bearing caps, and other stuff for the garage/fishing this weekend.
> ...



Did not think of that...thanks for the advise !

I did get the trailer powerwashed this weekend, and will try to work on it this week, but I am getting married on Saturday, then off to Ft. Lauderdale for the honeymoon for a week! So boat progress will remain slim to none. :roll:


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## bigwave (May 13, 2013)

Hey congrats on your wedding......bring some sunscreen, its already summer down here.


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## jvanhees (May 13, 2013)

Thanks Wave! I have a feeling im gonna get fried, but Ill def bring the sunscreen. We are driving my grandparents camper home from Sarasota, so it should be an interesting road trip home....long! :roll:


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## bigwave (May 13, 2013)

Hey I am right across the bridge for sarasota.....if your up in the st. pete area let me know.


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## jvanhees (May 13, 2013)

Sounds good, we are cruisin through that way I think on our way North..though it may only be cruising through...Ill hit you up if we have some time!


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## Badbagger (May 13, 2013)

Be safe and be sure to hit the strip on A1A in Fort Lauderdale. Once you're there, you'll want to find Sunrise Blvd and head East. As you get closer, you'll see signs "A1A & Beaches"... lived there for a LONG time.


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## jvanhees (May 14, 2013)

Badbagger said:


> Be safe and be sure to hit the strip on A1A in Fort Lauderdale. Once you're there, you'll want to find Sunrise Blvd and head East. As you get closer, you'll see signs "A1A & Beaches"... lived there for a LONG time.



Thanks BB! I know the condo is on A1A and Oakland on the beach so we wont be far 8) Is there any spots to visit or things to do that you would recommend? (non tourist opinion)


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## jvanhees (Jun 5, 2013)

Back in action, and trying to make some progress. Wedding and honeymoon went well!! Back to reality. Made a little progress on the trailer so far...








Got the new wifey to help paint!


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## jvanhees (Jun 5, 2013)

Still need to rewire, new bunks, new winch, hardware, tires and bearing buddies







Also, thinking about patching my cracks as the welder is MIA :/


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## Keystone (Jun 5, 2013)

Trailer looks a ton better!


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## Humj7 (Dec 8, 2013)

Great looking project !
Any resent updates ?
I like the fact your wife was helping you mine is doing the same thing .
Nice fish in your avatar .


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## jvanhees (Dec 9, 2013)

Thanks guys. Have a few updates coming! On the road today so maybe tomorrow.


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## jvanhees (Dec 13, 2013)

I may or may not have picked up another boat since June :lol:


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## jvanhees (Dec 13, 2013)

First I used Marine Tex Epoxy for my cracks/leaker spot....which ends up being some HARD stuff! Then covered it allllll in SF Black!!! That was fun. Especially when it started hardening during the last 20% of the job...Ill be faster next time.


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## jvanhees (Dec 13, 2013)

Boat back on trailer!






Then got it inside the garage and ripped the old transom out. Not in too bad of shape and will work nicely for a template.



\\


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## jvanhees (Dec 13, 2013)

Getting some foam in and starting the floors












Here you can see where the PO cut out the rear deck support, cut out the rod protector, and cut out the side console. All cutting could have been avoided by drilling out rivets ](*,) 








I think for the sake if finishing the project (the starcraft resto is on my mind now....) I may make it a tiller. Depends on what I can find for a motor at bottom feeder prices.


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## rscottp (Dec 13, 2013)

Good looking project, its coming along nicely.


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## jvanhees (Apr 8, 2014)

Ok so heres the update....I had twin girls Feb 20th, so all of 2014 has been twin-voloved with them. :LOL2: 

I picked up my third boat in 9 months....

Unsure of the year, but its an aluminum hull Duratech! 

Bought it for this specifically, with its steering and controls. 1978 50hp Johnson. 119 and 125 compression in the cylinders. Power head coloration was perfect. Spark plugs looked normal. Fired up for a few seconds after using some brake clean in the cylinders last night....so it runs. Will be doing an overhaul on this on the necessities.


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## jvanhees (Apr 8, 2014)

Picked up a third boat. Donor! 16 ft alum Duracraft


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## jvanhees (Apr 8, 2014)

Got the motor out with all steering components. 4 nice seats and pedastals. 2 oem metal gas tanks. Lowrance FF. A paddle, map of Lake Erie fishing spots and maybe another thing or two. Paid 350 for everything and sold the empty boat and trailer away for 200. Made out pretty good. 








And in the meantime got a new transom covered in spar in the SN


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## jvanhees (Apr 8, 2014)

Warmed up a tad one weekend and I wanted to have some rewarding progress done, so I painted the hull. Rusto SE primer followed by rusto marine topside/catalyst hardener.


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## jvanhees (Apr 8, 2014)

Now I have the floors cut along with the casting deck. Going with carpet and going to hit the interior of the hull that will show, with some SE primer as it looks nasty right now

What type of glue do you guys use to put the carpet down??






The light grey is SE primer, dark is carpet. Thoughts?


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## rscottp (Apr 8, 2014)

I like the color scheme. I see your dogs are helping with the spar!


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## jvanhees (Apr 8, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=347957#p347957 said:


> rscottp » Today, 12:38[/url]"]I like the color scheme. I see your dogs are helping with the spar!




Thanks Scott! Those potlickers help with moral support!


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## adam_mac84 (Sep 12, 2018)

I have a similar style Sea Nymph that I hope to get a deck in. I am curious about water flow/drainage under your foam. These boats don’t have recessed channels for water to flow toward the back. Do you find problems with water getting stuck?


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## gillhunter (Sep 14, 2018)

Welcome to the forum!

The OP hasn't been on the site for 3 years so I doubt that you will get an answer. 

Tip for the new members. When researching old threads check out the OP's profile to see if they are still active if you want to ask them a question.


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