# New Member with new project boat



## Travm70 (Jun 10, 2017)

Hello... new to the site. I have a project that I'm just getting started with. It's an 86 Lowe 1436 with a Mercury 15hp 4 stroke. From what I was told I'm the third owner. The guy I got it from brought it from someone who duck hunted with it and he slapped some paint on it after the camo paint started to peel. The paint looks really rough... but I'm not too worried about that at the moment.
How it looked when I first got it home.


I've since taken the seats and all the electrical equipment off it.








And then started poking around the rest of the boat and discovered the Transom board was rotten and I've tore that out.


There is a lot of work to be done on this thing. Overall its in pretty decent shape. I want to add casting decks to the front and rear using aluminum angle to frame it out. I plan to leave the area between the middle and rear seats open. I'm going to put 1.5 inch Styrofoam between the ribs.
For the transom redo... I have a 9.25X1.25 LVL that I want to use and I think I want to put an additional piece of aluminum angle between the corner brackets. That might be over doing it, I just want to make sure it's sturdy.
My big question now is the strip of aluminum that was under the old transom board.... it runs behind the 2 "seat" like things on both sides of the boat and its riveted in. To it seemed like a place to collect water.
Can this be cut out? and the pieces left in place that I can't get to? 
Does the new transom board need to be as wide as the old one?
Is there something that I can coat behind the transom board that will seal it? do I need to take it down to bare metal to seal it?

Thanks for any help!
Travis


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## Johnny (Jun 10, 2017)

Welcome Aboard, Travis !!

#1 = power wash the whole inside of the boat.
are the corner caps of the transom welded on ?
do you have any stress cracks anywhere in the transom metal ?
how thick was the original transom wood panel ?
in my world, I would either remove that piece of metal or drill it full of holes.
if you properly fabricate and seal the new transom wood panel, you will not
have any future issues with premature wood deterioration.

use the "search" feature in the upper right corner for any concerns you may have.

as for the overall project - SMALL BITES will lessen the frustration factor.
address each area of concern separately - each project will have its on method.

as for the *LVL* transom panel: although the Laminated Veneer Lumber (LVL) 
is constructed with "waterproof" adhesives, it is still considered an interior product. 
it is not designed for outside use unless it is properly sealed, preserved and either 
varnished or painted.
I would approach his project last - after everything else is done. and process it the 
same way as the regular plywood transom panel described several times in this forum.



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## Travm70 (Jun 10, 2017)

Thanks
Power washing is on the list
Yes the caps are welded
The old one came out in pieces it was so far gone
From the width between the cap and bottom of the piece that is there... it was about 7.5 to 8 inches wide by about 1.25 thick. I plan to seal and paint it.
I'm cutting that metal at the bottom out.
My concern with the width of the new transom board and trying to get it in... those "seat" (I'm sure they have a name) like things are in the way.


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## Johnny (Jun 10, 2017)

in the "search" box in the upper right corner,
put in *"how to remove a bench seat"* and you
will find dozens and dozens of members that
have addressed this very same issue.......
the method of attachment, (welded or riveted),
will present its on method for removal.
do a lot of research prior to just cutting stuff out.
and how to address replacing rivets, if removed.

maybe this picture will give you some clear descriptions.






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## Bowlershop (Jun 10, 2017)

If you cut those corner caps off and the top angle rather that the bottom one wouldn't the new transom slide right down in? That's how I did the two I have done.


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## Johnny (Jun 10, 2017)

the Port and Starboard driver's seats provide reinforcement to the transom panel.
if you remove them, you must add additional knee braces to compensate for the loss.
- or - put the driver seats back as you found them after the wood panel project is done.
address all corrosion issues prior to priming and painting where any wood items may go.



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watercraft, motor or trailer from the original manufacturers specifications. 
It is the responsibility of the boat owner to use his/her prudent best judgment as to modifying or altering 
the structural integrity of the boat hull, trailer or motor as designed and built by the manufacturer ***



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## Travm70 (Jun 11, 2017)

Thanks for the information I really appreciate it.
I really didn't want to get into cutting welds and removing a whole lot rivets. I'd have to find a weld shop and haul the boat back and forth.
I guess I look into that... it would probably be the right way to go about it.


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## Travm70 (Jun 11, 2017)

Well I have to say this here... I was trying out an angle grinder and a paint remover wheel. Both recently purchased from Harbor Freight.... wanted to see how it would cut the paint off the transom. Well after maybe 3-4 mins of working the paint and what metal was already stripped of paint. The wheel flew apart and a piece of it smacked me on the arm. Large scraped area and major swelling to the forearm... it eventually went down after a couple hours of ice. 
Gotta say it could have been a lot worse! What ever paint they put on this thing does not want to come off easy. I'd been working on it when I could with Aircraft Stripper...its a slow process. But it gets the job done. Guess I'm back to the slow and steady... small patch at a time.
I guess I'll get to test this boat out next Spring...


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## Travm70 (Jun 14, 2017)

Today I took the the boat to a machine shop that I called about 20 mins away... I told them what I wanted and of course the guy said he'd have to see it. So I loaded it up and took it up there. The old guy said he didn't think my plan was the best way to go about it.
My plan.... cut the corner brackets and top of the transom cap off so that I could slide in a new Transom board and then weld everything back together...as someone here had previously advised. 
His idea... cut a whole in the side of the boat where the Transom board would go... slide the new board in and then weld a patch over the hole.
Guess I need to find another machine shop.... unless I want to go the patch on the side option.

More than one way to skin a cat...


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## Johnny (Jun 14, 2017)

*yes - a welder that can actually SOLVE problems - not create them !!!*



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## gatorglenn (Jun 14, 2017)

Well you all would have to say. That's a first, at least I hope. I don't think I'll be seeing him anymore just saying.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Bowlershop (Jun 15, 2017)

gatorglenn said:


> Well you all would have to say. That's a first, at least I hope. I don't think I'll be seeing him anymore just saying.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I would stay far far away from that guy. I have done two transom replacements and I cut the corner caps and transom cap off. I have two builds on this site, check them out. .......................................................??????CUT THE SIDE OF THE BOaT??????


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## overboard (Jun 15, 2017)

Cut out the side of the boat to slide the transom wood in, and then patch it--- #-o I would run away from that guy as fast as you can! Plenty of transoms have been replaced by members on here, highly doubt that any were done that way.


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## Travm70 (Jun 16, 2017)

I've found another shop that I'm gonna have check out what I want done next week.

I just don't have all the tools to do it all. Guess we'll see how it goes.


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## Travm70 (Jun 20, 2017)

Today I had the transom cap and corner caps removed by a machine shop. Got it home and ready to get the new transom board installed.








Is there something that I should seal this metal with before I install the new board?
My plan is to seal and paint the board before it's installed.


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## Travm70 (Jun 29, 2017)

Finally got the transom board cut and fit into place last night. Next I need to get it sealed and finished...and find the bolts to get it attached. I'm thinking an oil based finish of some sort. Been reading a lot about using epoxy resin...I'll also need to decide on the finish of the wood decking. I won't to put carpet over the wood once its sealed.

Still so much work to do.

I'll post some pictures of the progress.


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## Travm70 (Jul 1, 2017)

Would it be best to fit the board... drill all holes and fit bolts prior to sealing and finishing the board?


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## Travm70 (Jul 1, 2017)

I've invested in the West Systems Epoxy Resin today.... guess we'll see how it all turns out.
Just need to find time to do the work. I'll start with the Transom Board and see how that turns out.


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## Johnny (Jul 1, 2017)

I would fine tune the transom panel to ensure a good firm fit.
drill all the holes 5/8", remove the panel and place on level surface,
tape the holes on the bottom side and fill the holes with epoxy until 
it hardens flush with the surface. the plywood will soak up the epoxy fast,
so you must continually keep adding fresh material until it hardens flush with top.
if the epoxy just keeps oozing out and will not stop, this means you have a void
that is sucking out all the epoxy. skip that hole until the epoxy cures, then start again.
install the wood panel and clamp to the hull transom. drill the required holes
and the epoxy will act as a waterproof plug that will never be compromised
with water. use stainless hardware throughout.
you can coat the entire transom panel with epoxy if you want, but is not necessary.
keep in mind that epoxy is not UV tolerant - so it must be either varnished or painted after 2-3 days.
there are several good threads on this forum of how to fabricate and waterproof a transom panel.


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## Travm70 (Jul 3, 2017)

That was another question... filling the holes.
Sounds like a really great idea. I plan to start finishing the board tomorrow.
I'll take a few pics along the way.

I also want to do something with the metal behind the board... any ideas? I was thinking of just spray in bedliner?

Any idea how this will all hold up when I have the transom cap welded back on?


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## Travm70 (Jul 4, 2017)

Well I didn't get as much done as I had hoped  
Outside of transom is now free of all paint...


The guy doing the welding asked that I clean it up... so I took it to bare metal.


The inside still needs a lot of work... started working with grinder to clean it up but it was way too hot today!
Do I need to take it to bare metal? Previous owner from what I can tell... added a patch to the outside where the motor would be mounted. Everything is pretty solid inside and out.
Got the board ready to be drilled


And it decided it was going to rain.... guess I need to clean the garage out so I can actually do some work in there.

Guess I'll get more done the next time I have some free time.


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## Travm70 (Jul 6, 2017)

Order some aluminum angle and a piece of C-Channel to use as the Transom cap today.
Need to get started on some of this other work...


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## Travm70 (Jul 15, 2017)

Finally got some work done on the framing.. got two ribs formed with the angle. Still got a lot of work ahead of me. Hard to find time with a 2 yr old in house and its just been blazing hot here over the last week.


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## gatorglenn (Jul 15, 2017)

It doesn't have to be done tomorrow. Take your time and enjoy it as well as live it self. My boats been torn apart since last fall. Just now getting ready to paint it [emoji849]


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## Travm70 (Jul 16, 2017)

Another kind of productive day before it got too hot... took a couple pictures.




I'm not to sure what to do with this seat... if I install the decking the way I plan to... it will be completely covered. And that would be a lot of wasted space. 
Was thinking I might try to cut it out... I saw a couple other mods where it was done. It's not attached to the bottom of the boat... and I think I'd leave it attached on the sides and add framing to them. Maybe add a live well in that area.


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## Travm70 (Jul 21, 2017)

Anyone have thoughts on that seat?


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## bigdaddydb (Jul 31, 2017)

been following your thread...I'm working on my first boat and it is very similar to yours. From what I know, that seat probably adds rigidity to the sides of the hull and I would think removing it means you have to compensate for that somehow...but again, what do I know, could be way off on that. If it's not filled with foam, I would think you could cut the top and make a storage hatch or even a live well like you said. You look like you're off to a better start than I am!


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## Travm70 (Aug 5, 2017)

For now I'm going to leave the seat there... I'll figure that out in phase II
I've started on getting the deck cut to fit. 

















Right now just focusing on the front and center area... still not sure how I want to do the rear of the boat.
The boat came with a 6 Gallon gas tank and it really doesn't fit in the very back of the boat. Previous owner kept it in the floor of center open area. I don't like that idea.
Once everything is cut to fit I'll seal it all and get it ready for carpet.
I'd like to get started on some of the electrical stuff too... just need the time. 
I'm searching for a good deal on some decent batteries... anyone have any ideas on that? I'd like to run 2 with 12v output.


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## Travm70 (Aug 11, 2017)

Found a decent price on Duracell Marine batteries... anyone have any input on their quality? 
I was leaning towards just going with a couple Walmart batteries...

Any thoughts...


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## Travm70 (Aug 15, 2017)

I've got an idea for the rear of the boat.... 




Remove part of the rear seat and frame it out with angle and plywood... I need room for the gas tank. Fill in any open areas with foam.
I'm going to add aluminum frame and plywood decking to the rear of the boat... I need to get the gas tank out of the way... previous own kept it in the floor between the rear and center seats... the Transom support is in the way as it is now.
And I'm thinking about removing the center seat... there is aluminum angle framing on either side of the center seat. I think this area would be a good spot for the batteries.

Any thoughts on this idea?


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## elrodphil (Sep 10, 2017)

I'm putting a floor in my weldbilt 1548...how did the plywood work out and what kind did you use? Did you carpet it?


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## Travm70 (Sep 17, 2017)

*Cut out the center seat...plan to use to store batteries and other storage and electrical...
and I'll add as much foam board and other foam as I can fit!!!!*











*Also cut the rear seat for gas can storage and got some of the framing done in the stern*











*Framing is almost done...only a few more supports and ready for plywood and foam*





















*just in case you were wondering....The transom board and transom cap are cut... they need to be sealed and painted. And then I'll have everything welded back in place!*


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## Travm70 (Sep 17, 2017)

elrodphil said:


> I'm putting a floor in my weldbilt 1548...how did the plywood work out and what kind did you use? Did you carpet it?


Basically I still need to seal all the plywood and I plan to cover with carpet.
I used 1/2 CDX exterior plywood... pretty easy to work with.

I'll keep you posted once I get everything wrapped up... this project seems to never end!


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## Travm70 (Oct 2, 2017)

*Well just about all the plywood is cut...*.
















*And I got the seat mounts install... here's the one for the front*






*Need to get hatches cut and seal everything. And I need to try and get the transom done and welded*.


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## Travm70 (Oct 22, 2017)

I've sealed all the plywood with West Marine Epoxy Resin.... can anyone tell me if it needs to be scuffed up prior to applying the marine carpet glue?


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## Travm70 (Nov 22, 2017)

Got the carpet to cover the plywood.... guess I have all winter to get that done now.
Been hunting and haven't had a chance to do much with the boat.


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## Travm70 (May 7, 2018)

Weather is finally warm... been working on the boat some over the past few weeks. I'll post some pictures of the recent progress.


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## Travm70 (May 12, 2018)

*Got started on the wiring...a few weeks ago.*









*The transom board is ready to install and I plan to have all the welding done next week.*





*wrapped all the plywood with carpet...*














*Going to finish up the carpet and wiring in the next week or so...*


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## Travm70 (May 12, 2018)

*A few more pictures of the progress...*


















*Center section with hatches... center hatch is where batteries will be... other 2 will be storage for whatever...*













*I got the speakers installed... the Bluetooth radio will be added soon.*


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## Travm70 (May 20, 2018)

*Had the transom cap and corner brackets welded back on...just need to bolt it all back together and slap on some paint. *




















*Now that the monsoon has finally stopped here in Virginia... I should be able to get back at it.*


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## akboats (May 21, 2018)

Looking good there man cant wait to get me one to play with.


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## heath (May 27, 2018)

Those 3 hatches in the front are lovely!

Can you estimate your total costs to this point ?


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## Travm70 (Jun 2, 2018)

Thanks... that's probably something I really don't want to think about.  
Everything together... maybe $400-500... not counting the new bow mount trolling motor
All Aluminum + screws and rivets
plywood and styrofoam
epoxy resin
carpet and glue and staples
new seats and seat mounts
all wiring.... switch panel, fuse block, bus bar, and extra electronics  
the list gets too long...


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## Travm70 (Aug 11, 2018)

Front deck build


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