# Lowrance mark 5x DSI and general wiring questions



## Leelatt (Nov 26, 2011)

Hey all,

so I got my first boat back in may this year, Tracker 1542, I've got a few projects lined up for it, currently working on a bow mount for my MK 55# transom TM, but onto the main topic, I picked up a Lowrance mark5x DSI fish finder today at my local dicks sporting goods for 1/2 the price for black friday/weekend sale, I was wondering on what's the best way to wire it up, what size in line fuse I should use, if it's worth getting the trolling motor mount for the transducer since my TM will be on the bow of my boat, or if I should just mount it to the transom of my boat?

I also plan on getting an aerator for the live well and a bilge pump eventually, should I look into getting a switch panel for everything?

if anyone has any pictures of how to do this I'd appreciate it as I currently have no idea what I'm doing.

-Lee


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## Wallijig (Nov 26, 2011)

Leelatt said:


> Hey all,
> 
> so I got my first boat back in may this year, Tracker 1542, I've got a few projects lined up for it, currently working on a bow mount for my MK 55# transom TM, but onto the main topic, I picked up a Lowrance mark5x DSI fish finder today at my local dicks sporting goods for 1/2 the price for black friday/weekend sale, I was wondering on what's the best way to wire it up, what size in line fuse I should use, if it's worth getting the trolling motor mount for the transducer since my TM will be on the bow of my boat, or if I should just mount it to the transom of my boat?
> 
> ...


After downloading owners manual it says use a 3 amp fuse.





A main switch I believe is good for electronics such as: radio's & depthfinders due to they may draw a small amount of current when shut off. That way if not using for extended period of time will not cause any battery drain. Plus if have any charging issues, equipment would be isolated from battery connections to prevent damage. 
I would use individual switches for things such as bilge and live well pumps, due to when they are off they will not draw any current. I do not think hooking them in main switch would be required. 
Only reason you may want to install them on the main switch is so you can have they insurance that when you flip one switch that everything would be off. However if you do make sure that the switches current capabilities will handle all equipment when everything is turned on. Fusing with large fuse at battery and each individually with fuse items requires after switch.


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## Leelatt (Nov 27, 2011)

Thanks for the diagram, I should of thought to check their website first, the diagram it came with wasn't specific. 

so the end of the power wire is a red and black wire about 18, maybe 16 gauge, I will be using a small 12volt marine battery that I have from an old sevylor raft's motor, is it safe to connect these small wires directly to the battery (including the in line fuse) without burning out the fish finder or should I find a better way to connect them to the battery?

also, is it better to mount it to the bow mounted trolling motor, or install it on the transom of the boat? I'm not sure what the advantage or disadvantage of one location of the other.


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## Wallijig (Nov 28, 2011)

Leelatt said:


> Thanks for the diagram, I should of thought to check their website first, the diagram it came with wasn't specific.
> 
> so the end of the power wire is a red and black wire about 18, maybe 16 gauge, I will be using a small 12volt marine battery that I have from an old sevylor raft's motor, is it safe to connect these small wires directly to the battery (including the in line fuse) without burning out the fish finder or should I find a better way to connect them to the battery?
> 
> also, is it better to mount it to the bow mounted trolling motor, or install it on the transom of the boat? I'm not sure what the advantage or disadvantage of one location of the other.



Yes it is safe to connect direct to battery. If you do unhook and pack away every time you could use aligator clips. 
trolling motor types is a personal preference. I like the bow mount, I feel one has better boat control. Some use both bow and transom.


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## LonLB (Nov 28, 2011)

I prefer to wire the depth finders directly to the battery. Also, you do not want to wire it to the battery you are using for the trolling motor(s).

Use an in-line fuse (which should have been provided), and ring terminals.
*IF* you do wire into a fuse block, I like to run the 3 amp fuse in that position, and STILL use an inline fuse. Just my piece of mind, considering the cost of some of the units available today. 

You want the Bilge and aerator pumps to be switched because you need to be able to switch between auto/manual mode on both. With auto mode bilge you will need a float switch, and with the livewell you would need a livewell timer.

Even if you don't add an auto/manual bilge now, and a aerator timer now, you can wire/switch it, so that they can be added later.

As for where to mount your transducer, that is up to you. The transom is a more reliable place to mount it. You can use it all the time (vs only when the trolling motor is down).
The trolling motor mount can sometimes receive electrical interference, but for the most part still works fine.

Most importantly think of when you will be using the deptfinder. Normally I would mount the transducer to the transom, and the depthfinder either in the back (for a tiller boat), or at the console. A separate, depth finder would be mounted in the bow, so when standing in the bow you can see it. And, this unit would have the transducer mounted to the trolling motor.

If you are budget limited you could buy power cables/transducers for one unit and switch the unit front/back as needed.

If you are in the bow, you don't want the transducer cone shooting down below you 12-18ft away from where you are standing/casting/fishing. Which would be the case if the transducer was mounted to the transom, and the unit mounted in the bow.


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## Leelatt (Nov 28, 2011)

Thanks for the help, the fish finder will have its own battery for now, until I need to wire more stuff up, the trolling motor has its own battery that's dedicated for it.

@ LonLB, it didn't come with an in-line fuse, so it looks like I'll have to pick one up, will any in line fuse work or does it have to be marine grade?
I'll most likely put aligator clips on it as I will be taking the finder out after each trip as I have a few trouble makers in my development that have been arrested for stealing GPS units out of people's cars, including my neighbors unit.

Also, does anyone have any experience with this particular fish finder? I had done a lot of research on it and saw a lot of great reviews, it came down to this and the competing humming bird model, but for 1/2 the normal price this one won out as I'm on a budget. over the last few days however I've need some negative reviews and I'm afraid I might have made a bad choice in the fish finder, or these are just those odd reviews from people who didn't take the time to learn how to use it.


again thank you, I appreciate the help and information you guys are providing, it's better then fumbling around in the dark just guessing at how the heck things are supposed to work.


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## Wallijig (Nov 28, 2011)

Leelatt said:


> Thanks for the help, the fish finder will have its own battery for now, until I need to wire more stuff up, the trolling motor has its own battery that's dedicated for it.
> 
> @ LonLB, it didn't come with an in-line fuse, so it looks like I'll have to pick one up, will any in line fuse work or does it have to be marine grade?
> I'll most likely put aligator clips on it as I will be taking the finder out after each trip as I have a few trouble makers in my development that have been arrested for stealing GPS units out of people's cars, including my neighbors unit.
> ...




They do make water proof ones with would be st to go with in conditions you are using it. However any fuse holder will work.

I do not know much about that depth finder. I have been looking to buy a Hummingbird brand, being they bought out place that makes the gps map chips.


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## LonLB (Nov 28, 2011)

Leelatt said:


> Thanks for the help, the fish finder will have its own battery for now, until I need to wire more stuff up, the trolling motor has its own battery that's dedicated for it.
> 
> @ LonLB, it didn't come with an in-line fuse, so it looks like I'll have to pick one up, will any in line fuse work or does it have to be marine grade?
> I'll most likely put aligator clips on it as I will be taking the finder out after each trip as I have a few trouble makers in my development that have been arrested for stealing GPS units out of people's cars, including my neighbors unit.
> ...




IMO, as long as you have some sort of rubber seal around the fuse you should be OK.
I use these.



They are from Lowrance. I'm sure you can buy them from them, but you can probably find similar other places. I use these because I stock piled them over a few years on installs that went right to the fuse block.

As for the power cables, you can ring terminal them, and still remove the unit. Just unplug the cables from the back of the unit and remove it, leaving the mount/cables in place.


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## TNtroller (Nov 28, 2011)

you can get the "weatherproof or resistant" inline fuses at wally world or any autoparts place, look for one that has a rubber boot or top on it so it will keep most water out. I've used 'em w/o issue but mine are in a covered battery compartment on my boat(tracker pt175) which keeps 99% of the water off the connection. 

you will get positive and negative reviews on just about everything you google on the web, if you were able to see the unit work in demo mode at the store, and understood all of the functions, was easy for you to use, then mount it and try it out. Be careful on the mounting so you can return it if you don't like it on the water.


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