# switch panel



## boater15 (May 2, 2012)

I have a question about my sea sense 6 toggle switch fused panel, the black one. I understand the fuse purpose and using fuses that are the correct size for the accessory that is being ran from a specific switch. However, when I received my switch panel today, the 3 toggles on the top row are jumpered into the 3 switches on the bottom. So there are six switches but only 3 fuses. I guess I was thinking there would be 6 seperate fuses.....So it seems that two switches are on the same fuse. Does this seem right? Then it says all 3 of the positive wires(that have the fuses), coming from the switch panel are to be wire tied together with the main red/positive coming from the battery. Is that correct? 

I will be running my interior lights, and both bow and anchor light, and my livewell aerator from the panel

Thanks for the help guys/gals!


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## Rock (May 2, 2012)

:shock: ! havent seen that before! i'm interested in any comments...


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## Mojo^ (May 3, 2012)

I'm glad you posted this. The BEP Marine 5-switch combo. panel that I ordered from Jamestown Distributors also has the jumper between the switches with a 15 amp blade type fuse in-between. I thought it was kind of weird and I'm a little confused on how to wire this thing. I thought each switch would be wired independently.


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## Bob Landry (May 3, 2012)

Look at it again. I'm suspecting that what you see ganged together is the input sides of the switches so that they can all be fed from one power source. Each switch will have it's dedicated output. If you could post a picture of the back side of the panel or the wiring schematic, that would help.


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## boater15 (May 3, 2012)

I understand they are trying to minimize the amount of positive feeds going to the battery. I also understand that the six switches will run 6 different items. The issue is there are only three fuses for 6 switches.......here are some pictures if I can get them uploaded.


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## boater15 (May 3, 2012)

This is the front.


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## Rock (May 3, 2012)

did you get a schematic with your panel?


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## boater15 (May 3, 2012)

Yes it says to run the positive from each accessory to any of the open switches. Then run the negative from each accessory to a neg bus bar then run the neg bus to negative on battery. Then it shows to wire tie all 3 positive wires from the switch panel together and run it to the battery.


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## boater15 (May 3, 2012)

Here is a diagram


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## Rock (May 3, 2012)

i was wondering about a ground wire from the switch. there is none. very simple...


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## boater15 (May 3, 2012)

How to wire it is not the concern. I'm curious how one fuse runs 2 different switches/accessories if they are rated for different amps. Say one switch needs a 5amp fuse for the accessory and the other switch needs a 10 amp fuse for its accessory.


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## Rock (May 3, 2012)

i'd say try to match your accessories as close as you can(amp wise).. i dont understand the advantage of the design.


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## RivRunR (May 4, 2012)

That's just really weird. Never seen a fused panel like that before. You're right, you'll be protecting 2 circuits with a single fuse. Makes no sense.

You could pull the wires off, make up your own, and fuse each feed. You'd only be increasing by 3 wires.
I'd add a 6-postion fuse block rather than a gob in in-lines behind the switch.


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## Mojo^ (May 4, 2012)

Just curious but, what brand of switch is that? The BEP Marine switch that I bought is very similar and has the same set-up with one fuse protecting two circuts.


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## Bob Landry (May 4, 2012)

Rather than spend time and $$$ making it the way it should be, I would look at the Blue Sea line of switch and fuse panels. You will get a quality product that will outlast your boat. It costs a little more, but it will be right and suitable for what it is intended instead of that cheap store brand stuff that's manufactured for BPS and Cabelas on low bid. With marine equipment , as with most everything else, you'll get what you pay for.


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## Bugpac (May 4, 2012)

Notta issue, running 2 switched loads of one fuse. IMO use them fuse supplies to protect the feed, down size with smaller fuses right close to the load source.


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## boater15 (May 4, 2012)

@Mojo, its a sea sense switch panel. The main reason I went with it because I seen so many people on this site using that one. I think next time, I will get one that has 6 seperate fuses. Crappy part of this one is if a fuse blows, then two accessories are knocked out. I will have plenty of spares on board.


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## Mojo^ (May 4, 2012)

boater15 said:


> @Mojo, its a sea sense switch panel. The main reason I went with it because I seen so many people on this site using that one. I think next time, I will get one that has 6 seperate fuses. Crappy part of this one is if a fuse blows, then two accessories are knocked out. I will have plenty of spares on board.



Yup, I'm in the same boat with you (pun intended). I see where Overton's has a Blue Sea 6-switch panel with individual circuit breakers on sale for $99 + free shipping. I may just splurge and buy one of those rather than use what I already have. The idea of one blade fuse supporting two circuits just doesn't sit well with me, but I don't know why. My last boat (fiberglass) saw many, many hours on the water and I didn't have any fuses or breakers or bus bars or any of that stuff so I guess one fuse for two circuits is still better than what I had before.


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## Bugpac (May 5, 2012)

why not just go buy 3 additional fuse holders and make them separate, chances are the breakers wont be the accurate rating anyhow.


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## captdan (May 16, 2012)

I am not a huge fan of their design either, but it will work fine as long as you pair the accessories accordingly. i would hook your bilge pump up independently, and your trolling motor realy shouldnt go through a switch unless your running REALLY have gauge wire to the switch.... If you decide to keep that one, get a fuse block.... id pull of the existing wires and have them run through the fuse block independently.... 

Sea Sense makes a rocker style switch panel that has reset breakers built into the panel. Its switches are lighted and comes prewired with the jumpers for your power supply as well as the grounds for the light. Makes it very simple as you only need one positive and a ground to battery. Just hook up your accessories to each of the switches and your set. they make them in both 4 and 6 switch designs.


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## krawler (May 16, 2012)

The fuses on the switch panel are there to protect the wiring and switches encase of a short. Any device (radio, fish finder, vhf radio) should have it's own fuse rated at the gauge of wire for that device. You should also have a circuit breaker or fuse on the main wire going to the switch panel, close to the battery.

Here is a common way to wire up a boat;

Battery to a main battery switch. Usually 4 to 6 gauge wire.
Battery switch common to switch panel. Usually 10 gauge wire with a 30 amp fuse/breaker.
10 gauge wire to the three 16/14 gauge wires at back of panel. 15 amp fuses to protect the wire and switches.
From switch common to device. Usually small gauge wire with a 3 to 5 amp fuse.
All the ground wires should terminate at a buss or at a single point and than use a heavy gauge wire (8/10) to the - side of the battery.

Most devices when purchased new will come with an in-line fuse.

Battery switch for two batteries.







Run all the wire into a gang box, makes for a real clean job.


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