# Spindle help?



## Reload (Oct 13, 2012)

Hi. New member here. I picked up a Starcraft 14' Superstar B/M/T package a few weeks ago and figured I needed to check the bearings first. Turns out the right spindle is trashed and I'm having a difficult time finding one. 

The trailer is a 1985 Shorelandr Challenger. I contacted the Shorelandr and they sent me the bright shiny one shown in the pic. The nasty buggered up one on the bottom is what I need. 

Their 'parts team' is investigating to see if they can provide the correct one. I pretty much know where this is going since they sent the wrong one to begin with. The problem is the slots for the U-bolts to clear. I can find a lot of similar spindles, but none with the recesses. Spent hours on the internet. 

The spindle is hardened, so filing in slots won't work. Not sure I want to buy a new axle and deal with new hubs, more bearings, etc. Probably just buy another used trailer, just make sure parts are more common.

Even a good used one would be ok. Without the spindle the trailer is scrap. I've considerd trying a square shank, but the ends of the C-channel axle would need too much modification. 

Any thoughts?


----------



## PSG-1 (Oct 13, 2012)

I've never seen that method used for attaching a spindle, and I've worked on LOTS of trailers. Normally, they are welded in place. From the pics, it looks like they use U-bolts to hold it into the channel. Is that correct?

If it's simply a matter of the spacing of the notches, you just need to grind new cuts into the spindle stub. There's a few ways to do it.

A file may not work, but I can guarantee you that a grinder with a hard wheel would do it.
A milling machine with a ball end mill could possibly do it, depending on the hardness of the material.
One other option....a plasma cutter or torch could also be used to do the primary gouge, then clean it up with a grinder.

It has been my experience that you may not always be able to find a part that works exactly like it should, but that part can always be modified to work.


----------



## Reload (Oct 13, 2012)

PSG-1 said:


> I've never seen that method used for attaching a spindle, and I've worked on LOTS of trailers. Normally, they are welded in place. From the pics, it looks like they use U-bolts to hold it into the channel. Is that correct?



Correct. And a quick search around the web will show that it's extremely common. Even Tractor Supply sells replacement bolt-on spindles, just not the ones I need. (Of course)



PSG-1 said:


> If it's simply a matter of the spacing of the notches, you just need to grind new cuts into the spindle stub. There's a few ways to do it.




Have a grinder, have considered it. If you look at the pic, you can see the outer recesses line up, just the inner one would need to be cut. Might try it if all else fails.


----------



## PSG-1 (Oct 13, 2012)

Reload said:


> PSG-1 said:
> 
> 
> > I've never seen that method used for attaching a spindle, and I've worked on LOTS of trailers. Normally, they are welded in place. From the pics, it looks like they use U-bolts to hold it into the channel. Is that correct?
> ...




Bolted spindles may be common in some areas, but they don't seem to be common around here on the coast. 95% of the axles I see are either pipe, or square tube, with spindles welded in place. I have seen a few that were C-channel designs, but again, with the spindle welded (I never trusted that design.....U-bolting into channel is a much more acceptable means of doing it)

That said, I believe you COULD do it with a grinder, just use a bolt of that diameter as a reference as you make the cut, so you know when it's deep and wide enough. Cut a little, guage it with the bolt, check the fit, and fine-tune the cut as necessary.


----------



## Hanr3 (Oct 14, 2012)

Have you tried cleaing up teh oringinal spindle yet? 

A new axle at Tractor Suppler is about a C note and a half. 
I would not use that C-Channel axle, see my build thread and what happended to the original axle under my trailer. Twisted up like a pretzel when a leaf spring broke. Tossed the owners boat into the ditch on the highway. He bought a new trailer and I acquired the old one.


----------



## PSG-1 (Oct 14, 2012)

Hanr3 said:


> Have you tried cleaing up teh oringinal spindle yet?
> 
> A new axle at Tractor Suppler is about a C note and a half.




I can build them cheaper than that. 30 dollars worth of spindles, another 40 or so for the axle tube material, and then another 30-40 dollars for 1/2 hour of cutting, assembling, and welding the spindles into the tube. 

I use material with a 1/4" wall for axles. I want my axle strong enough that the trailer collapses under load before the axle does, no excuses, I don't let inferior crap slide out the door of my shop....unlike "Reliable Axles" and a few other piss-poor designs I've seen over the years.

When I build an axle, not only do I seal weld at the end of the axle tube, I also drill a hole about 2 inches back from the end of the joint of the spindle-to-tube, and plug weld the spindle to the tube. That way, if the seal weld were to crack, the plug weld continues to hold. 

Additionally, when I build axles, I fill them with 8 ounces of cooking oil. The oil not only keeps the inside of the tube from rusting, it also acts as a heat dispersal agent, helping to transfer some of the heat buildup in the spindles, out into the axle itself. 

Also, it acts like a leak detector, letting you know if a seal weld is compromised, or if rust has eaten through from the outside in. Launch at the ramp and see oil, you know it's time to fix the axle. And since it's cooking oil, it's bio-degradable, unlike motor oil, which, as much as I hate to admit, is what I used for a long time to put in the axles.

You will not see factory axles done like this, I guarantee it. They want their axles to leak and rust, so you can buy a new one every 2 years. Half the time, the stupid SOB's do something to intentionally sabotage the axle and set it up for premature failure, such as, instead of using a spring centering pad, they drill a hole in the axle #-o 

This is the WORST thing you can possibly do. Not only is that hole a stress riser (and I have seen axles crack and break at this point) it also allows water to enter the axle, so, not only do you have to worry about it rusting from the outside in, but from the inside out, as well, which accelerates the rusting process at least 2X. Don't you just love these educated idiots/college boy 'engineers' that draw up plans for things to be built this way? Idiots don't know a thing about turning a wrench, but they're gonna draw plans for a fabricator to build something.

Unfortunately, to ship one of my axles to somebody, the shipping cost would probably equal, or exceed the cost of the axle itself. It's a dollar per pound for shipping, unless of course, it's some oddball-sized package, then, they rape you. Shipping companies ought to be shot for the prices they charge, but then again, I guess they have to pay for that 4 dollar a gallon diesel fuel somehow.




> I would not use that C-Channel axle, see my build thread and what happended to the original axle under my trailer. Twisted up like a pretzel when a leaf spring broke. Tossed the owners boat into the ditch on the highway. He bought a new trailer and I acquired the old one.



Maybe THAT'S why I haven't ever seen this design used! :roll: 

As I looked at the picture of it, I had doubts as to its strength. It's always better to have a spindle completely enclosed in tubing, never in channel. (Hoop stress, I believe is what it's called, IIRC)

The axles I've seen that had spindles welded in channels, if the weld rusts, fatigues, and cracks....the spindle folds up, and drops the trailer on the road. Had to fix a few like this, and the way I fixed it was to shi+ can the old axle, salvage the spindles whenever possible....and build a new axle out of tubing, either square, or round.


----------



## Reload (Oct 14, 2012)

Hanr3 said:


> Have you tried cleaing up teh oringinal spindle yet?
> 
> I would not use that C-Channel axle, see my build thread and what happended to the original axle under my trailer. Twisted up like a pretzel when a leaf spring broke. Tossed the owners boat into the ditch on the highway. He bought a new trailer and I acquired the old one.



I've thought about it. The surface for the seal could definitely be cleaned up, but I'm afraid the rear bearing thrust is too far gone. Most of the metal is mashed up onto the seal area. 

Not too worried about the C channel. This boat isn't going to be going far or fast. It's strictly for the local lakes here around SE MI.


----------



## lckstckn2smknbrls (Oct 15, 2012)

I would recommend going with a new axle.


----------



## Hanr3 (Oct 15, 2012)

Reload said:


> Hanr3 said:
> 
> 
> > Have you tried cleaing up teh oringinal spindle yet?
> ...



If your not going far or fast, clean up the spindle and use it as is.


----------

