# 14' Lund rebuild and modification



## Centrarchidae (Nov 3, 2013)

I have been reading posts on this sight for a couple months now and I have to say there are some really talented people with some awesome boat builds! I have learned a lot about what I would like to do with my boat by reading what others have posted here and I would like to share my ideas and plans as well. Maybe some one else can be inspired a little from what I will attempt to document here.

A little info about how I ended up with the boat I currently have. I had a 14' sea nymph for about 10 years and really loved the boat. I didn't do too much mods on it other than add some lights, electrical improvements, painting inside and outside of the hall. The issue I had with it was the motor, a 15 HP Force I think was about a 1984. It was nothing but trouble. This past summer I was able to get it running as good as ever, though. My Wife and I were camping at Muskegon State Park with my brother and his family. One day, after a morning of fishing, I was giving my nephew and niece a boat ride out in Muskegon Lake. We were about 3 miles from the boat launch when the motor started acting up. I was able to get it running and we turned around, when, you can probably guess, it died for good. Locked up in a way I knew it would never run again. My brother and I ended up rowing about a mile to a place we could pull the boat out of the water and get a ride back to our campsite. That's when I started looking for a new motor in earnest! I ended up at Sportsfisherman's Service Center in Muskegon - really nice people! They told me for the price of a good motor they could provide a package deal on what is now my current boat. They even gave me the same price I bought the boat for in trade-in value. Still hurt to part with the boat, but no love was lost on the motor.


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## jasper60103 (Nov 3, 2013)

Welcome aboard, Centrarchidae.
Nothing more frustrating than a motor that won't run.
Hopefully the new rig brings you years of enjoyment.

jasper


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## jdsgrog (Nov 4, 2013)

It looks like a nice "new" old rig. Those lunds are nice and stable and ride nice even in rougher waters. good luck on your mod. looks like my old lund (that i sold), so you can check out what i did with mine.


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## Centrarchidae (Nov 4, 2013)

Thanks jasper. I was able to get some good use already this summer. The "new" boat is slightly bigger than the old boat, but with the 10 more HP from the 'rude it moves really well. There is no substitute for HP!

jdsgrog - your lund looks like the same base boat as mine. You did some really nice work on that boat. I have been thinking about what I might like to do, and your finished boat is very close to what I would like to try.

I have two basic configurations I am contemplating. One is with side boxes on both side and a small front deck like in jdsgrog's 14' lund, and a similar idea with side boxes, but asymmetric so as to create more open area in each "cockpit". One of the major design criteria I used in both is to have pedestal seats mounted on the floor to keep the CG low. I followed some advice mentioned on several builds on this site - stand up on the seats and see what it is like. I took the boat out on th river and started walking on the seats, especially the front one where I would like to put a deck. I tell you, at 6'7" and 235 lbs, it got a little squirrelly for me. Might not have been so bad if the boat was a little more loaded or if someone else was in the boat, but it made my mind up - keep the CG as low as possible.

Here's some models of what I am thinking:


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## Kismet (Nov 4, 2013)

Nice swap. You definitely traded up.

Will look forward to your modifications.


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## RustyGoat (Nov 5, 2013)

I'm in the planning stages of changing things around in my 14' Polar Kraft. One of my ideas is very similar to your first pic. I am thinking about removing the center bench and make storage boxes down the sides that run from the split rear bench to the front bench. Also close in the bow for more storage. 

I hate having stuff laying around in the way. I want to have a place for all my gear on the boat.


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## rscottp (Nov 5, 2013)

Nice boat! I like the full length boxes better. Can't you still offset the rear seat to make more comfy for tiller with that configuration?


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## earl60446 (Nov 5, 2013)

Let me just be the first to say that I like the motor size in your drawings, that is a MAN'S motor on the back
of that 16 footer. looks like about a 150 hp. Keep up the good work.
Tim


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## Centrarchidae (Nov 5, 2013)

Thanks for the kind words. I am also thinking the full-length boxes on the sides would be the best simply because it offers a lot of support for the sides. While I am still sorting it out though I have been cleaning up the hull.

There is/was a somewhat heavy scum line on the bottom of the boat. There is a lake association sticker on the boat, so I think the PO left it in the water a lot of time. If I lived on a lake I probably would also. I wanted to get it cleaned up. I have read some concerns on this site about using acid to clean aluminum so I decided not to go that route. I did a little research on how to polish metals, and after a few attempts I devised a method that seems to work quite well. Time consuming but it does work. I started on the bottom port side and just worked on about a 2' length at a time. Using a 1/4 sheet pad sander, I sanded the area with 100, 220, 400, and finally 600-grit crocus paper. Then using a 1 HP angle grinder with a buffing wheel, I buffed it out with an aluminum cutting compound, and then polished with an aluminum rouge compound. A 2' length took a little more than 1 hour. I probably have 8-9 hours into cleaning the 1/2 of the boat I have done at this time. The first attempt at polishing I skipped all the sanding and started with the cutting compound. Big mistake! The surface turned black from all the debris coming off the aluminum. I guess that's what happens when I try to take shortcuts. What I learned is that it is very important to clean the aluminum after each grit level, especially before the cutting compound on the buffer wheel. In between sand paper levels, I just wiped it off with a rag, but for the buffing compounds I wiped it down with mineral spirits to remove any of the remaining buffing wax. Also, the sand paper does not last very long - a few times it took more than one sheet of sand paper to complete the 2' section, especially the 100 grit. I guess that makes sense because the sand paper is aluminum oxide, which is basically what the aluminum surface is. At this time I have 1/2 the hull cleaned and I am liking the results.


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## Centrarchidae (Nov 5, 2013)

That's too funny earl60446! The motor is just a free 3D model I found to put into the boat model to represent a motor. If I remember right, its actually is a 150 HP model! The real thing will just have a little 25 HP Evenrude. It pushes the boat plenty fast for the fish I chase!


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## Kismet (Nov 5, 2013)

If elbow grease were money, a shiny tin would be the most expensive boat in the water. 

Nice work. Yeoman effort.

=D> =D> =D>


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## fishingmich (Nov 9, 2013)

Have you ever fished the muskegon river? Have been wanting to fish it but wasn't sure how deep it was. Hopefully next summer with my daughter. Nice job on the boat.


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## Centrarchidae (Nov 16, 2013)

fishingmich - I have fished the Muskegon river from the Muskegon lake end - about a mile or two up the north channel. It is fairly deep there and didn't have any issues. I have also fished a little from shore below the Croton dam in Newago, and also on Hardy Dam Pond in a boat, from the state park boat launch. I would recommend, if you are coming from SE Michigan, to try Muskegon Lake and the river from that end as it has a bit of everything, being connected to the big lake and all. I can tell you also that the river below the Croton dam is quite busy on weekends with canoes and tubers. We took our daughter and some of her friends canoeing there this summer and it was BUSY! It is also quite shallow in spots so you would need to watch out for rocks.

Not much progress lately on the boat. Started polishing up the starboard side bottom, maybe 20% done. Probably won't have too much time until Thanksgiving weekend to do much else as I had other commitments all this week and next week I will be travelling for work. I "jumped the gun" a bit and ordered one seat pedestal from Iboats.com for one of the seats I have planned. I only ordered one because of $$ and I like to try things out a bit before going all in. Slowly moving forward.


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## Centrarchidae (Dec 1, 2013)

Posting error - computer problem


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## Centrarchidae (Dec 1, 2013)

Update since the last post. The hull is finished being cleaned and polished! It took a little bit of time, but I am happy with the results and even happier to be moving on. There are two reasons I wanted to have a bare aluminum hull; 1 – I painted my previous boat and saw how much damage painted hull takes over the 2 or 3 summers it was painted. It looks great when first painted, but I think it would take a lot of work to keep it that way. It might be a lot of work to keep the aluminum looking nice also – I guess I will find out. 2 – If I were to paint the hull, it would be next April before there would be enough warm days to get all the painting done. As it was, I finished cleaning and polishing yesterday with the garage door open since it was a nice sunny 45 °F day. Can’t paint at that temperature!

Following are pictures of the finished hull. Not perfect but I like it. Since this is a 30+ year old boat, there are many battle scars on the hull still visible. These might have been better covered or hidden with paint, but why cover up all that character?


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## rscottp (Dec 1, 2013)

I dig the shiny hull! I painted mine because of the patching that I had to do.


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## Centrarchidae (Dec 1, 2013)

Thanks rscottp. The boat is really in quite good shape and the transom is still very solid. I see you had to do quite a bit of work on yours. The basic overall layout is very similar between our two boats.


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## Centrarchidae (Dec 1, 2013)

Before I flipped the boat over and put it back on the trailer, I discovered something about the trailer. It is a folding design! I don’t think I ever saw a folding boat trailer. What is the benefit? Does it make loading in shallower water easier?


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## rscottp (Dec 1, 2013)

I think they call them tilting trailers. Better for shallow ramps, I have never used one. I think it would be good for storing the boat outside, keep it tipped up so the water drains.


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## Centrarchidae (Dec 8, 2013)

The boat is now on the trailer and I am starting to disassemble the inside benches. I got the floor removed and all the flotation as well. Earlier in the summer, I had removed all the wooden bench covers and sanded, stained, and coated with urethane. I put it back on so I could continue using the boat, it an improvement that could be done without taking the boat out of service.
Now everything is out and I am going to make changes to the benches. The current plan is to remove all the benches and put quite narrow side boxes or benches along the side up to the point of about where the front bench is. I was planning on putting a deck on the front to create a place for putting the gas tank and battery, but it depends on how high of a deck it will need to be. The fuel tank is about 10" tall, so a deck about 12" above the hull might be enough to hide the tank and the battery. I want to keep the deck as low as possible because I am planning on putting a third pedestal seat there and do not want it to be too high.
I was gone all day Saturday, but spent about an hour looking at the empty boat and measuring what the deck could look like, just trying to figure out what would be best. Didn't actually do anything, - it was quite cold (~20 °F), so I went inside and watched MSU win the Big Ten championship. Go Spartans!!!

Question I have - how high of a front deck could be put in a 14' V-hull without making it too unstable? I am setting this up for three fishing seats. The back and middle seats are easy to figure out as they will be on the floor. The third one will need to be elevated I am thinking about 15" or so to make a wide enough deck to make a third comfortable fishing location, as the shape of the hull gets quite narrow up front - the curse of a V-hull. What I don't want is something that is unstable. I am thinking that if the deck is about 12-15" below the gunnel it would be OK. Any thoughts?


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## rscottp (Dec 8, 2013)

Interesting layout on your boat, do you know what model it is? I never saw those side boxes between the back and middle benches, I wonder if they are from the factory? 

As far as your front deck goes, I wonder what type of water you fish? I think a lot depends of how rough it gets. I have had the casting deck on my boat for years and have found it to be pretty stable in moderate chop. The new deck will be about 1"lower than the previous so that I will still have the storage I need. It also seems that centering the seat over the existing bench would be more stable that mounting it closer to the front.

Just my 2 cents, looking forward to see what you do!


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## rscottp (Dec 8, 2013)

￼found your hull in Lund archives!


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## Humj7 (Dec 9, 2013)

Nice looking boat you have there. Love the polished hull I hope to polish my hull this winter.
My 1st boat was a 14ft blue Finn I added front deck and floor. Form my experience I would keep the front deck as low as possible I installed mine on top of the front seat and would not have wanted it any higher.


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## Centrarchidae (Dec 9, 2013)

Humj7 and rscottp - Thanks for the advice about the deck height. I was originally thinking of making the front deck the same height as the front bench, but I get the feeling it might need to be lower. Your opinions confirm what I have been thinking. Putting the front seat about at the center of the bench is a good idea - that should leave enough room to make the front area big enough for a good fishing location. Just need to figure out how low it can go and still fit the fuel tank and the battery.

rscottp - thanks for finding the boat literature. I think that might be the actual model I have. I found some specs for that model, and it looks like they match what I can measure on the boat. That middle walk-through bench has already been removed on the boat when I bought it, but the brackets that held it are still on the sides of the hull. Thanks!


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## Centrarchidae (Jan 4, 2014)

Well, I've been quite busy since the last time I posted, with little time to work on the boat. Been doing lots of thinking though. I have decided to go with the non-symmetrical plan primarily because it creates the most open floor space. I like to be able to move around without tripping or bumping into things.
On the last day of 2013, I bought a little space heater to take the chill off working in the garage. Makes a huge difference! New Year's day I started the heater, ate breakfast while it warmed up, and then got to work. (After staring at the boat for a bit longer). Up to this point, the things I did could easily be reversed - put the floor back in, reattach the benches. Then I cut the first rivet holding one of the little side boxes in the boat. An hour later I nearly had the entire back end disassembled.


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## Centrarchidae (Jan 4, 2014)

Earlier, I ordered an adjustable pedestal base, so I started placing it in the boat to see how it fit. I put so wellme pieces of wood in the boat to temporarily represent the side boxes and see how it looks as well. Here's what I came up with:


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## rscottp (Jan 5, 2014)

Glad to see you are back at it. Keep the pictures coming!


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## mfbear (Jan 5, 2014)

Great start on it. I also like the bare hull, mine had too much patching so had to paint it to make it look decent. I think you may find that you will need to off center the rear seat with a tiller motor. I would also put the front seat at the rear of the front deck, not sure how deep yours is but yes keep the front deck as low as possible, I had to raise my deck higher than I wanted to accommodate the batteries. You will probably also find that standing on the front deck when someone in the back moves is even more shaky. Not sure if you checked out my build but it does have side boxes. I will probably sit on one when I am using the outboard, but with front and rear trolling motors that won't be often. My build is located below.


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## Centrarchidae (Jan 11, 2014)

Had a chance to work on the boat today. Seems I get enough time to work on her for a few hours about every two weeks. Today the weather was much warmer - mid 30's, but with wind and rain. Didn't need to run the heater too much to make it tolerable in garage - bonus!

Last time I cut out the rivets holding the rear seat pieces in and was able to remove whole pieces of aluminum. Felt like crossing a point of no return. Today was a bit more of a point of no return - the main frame of the rear bench was modified. The piece is a structural member and is riveted into the hull and stretches across the whole width of the boat. I couldn't rip it out completely as it forms the floor beam as well. Since I am putting a box on the port side, I cut that end square at about the point the box will be. I cut the starboard side at an angle such that the bracket that attached to the bench could still be used and there are still a rivet or two in place at the bottom. Broke two new saw blades in the process - not even 2 hours old!

I also turned a corner as it were in this mod - I started building. Up to this point it has been cleaning, cutting and removing, and while there still is more of this to do at the front bench, it felt good to be building. The plan id to extend the flat floor in the middle all the way to the back so today I built a floor beam on the rib between the what was the rear bench and the transom. I also cut some pieces to go from the transom braces to the new floor beam. Still need to figure out how to attach these, but it is starting to look like something!


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## Centrarchidae (Jan 26, 2014)

Was able to get some more planning and some more mods done on the boat since the last post. I started building the port-side box near the stern by using some of the sheet metal I took out earlier. The piece already had the angle cut to fit to the stern, so all I needed to do was cut it to height such that it fit on the floor instead of directly on the hull. I did some "backyard tinsmithing" and made some 90° angles and riveting tabs as well. Nothing is attached yet and I will need more sheet metal to finish it up.

Got started on the front of the boat as well. The original plan was to have a front deck with the fuel tank and battery underneath. My concern was that this would make the front deck too high, because it needed to be 2-3" higher than the front bench. After much thought and using cardboard mockups of the battery and tank, I decided to put the battery and fuel tank way up front on a larger platform where the bow seat was originally. This requires some structure to build a platform large enough to hold the battery and tank, and will use the front 2' of the boat, but puts it in an area that gets little use anyway. When fishing last summer we put the anchor on the bow seat, or else under it. The front passenger fished from the front bench and would put a tackle box on the bow seat. I could get an Anchor Mate or other anchor management system and keep the anchor outside of the hull and free up the entire bow. This would also keep the boat cleaner! With a flat floor in front of the front fishing position a tacklebox can be kept right on the floor. Problem solved!

Putting the fuel tank and battery in the bow allows the front deck to be made much lower than the front bench. I measured it out and looked at it many times and decided the front deck will be about 3" higher than the main floor, about 7" lower than the original front bench height. That should really keep the CG low! So, after some cutting of the front bench and adding in some aluminum angle the front deck is starting to take shape. Still need to add some feet to the front corner so it will be supported on the hull, but so far i have not had to drill a hole through the hull. The opening in the front deck i think could be used to store life vests and other small things and the area under the battery and fuel tank can be filled with flotation foam.

I did a little experimenting with solid rivets on the back angle support inside the original bench. I bought a small bucking bar and started driving in rivets with a small hammer. I did it in this location since it will be visible from inside the boat and i was trying to keep all the rivets looking the same. Purely for aesthetic reasons, but it wasn't too difficult and they seem stronger than pop rivets. The rest of the rivets are the pop rivet kind since i could not easily get to both sides of the rivets.


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## rscottp (Jan 28, 2014)

Looks good! I like watching the progress you are making on a hull similar to mine. Keep the pictures coming!


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## Centrarchidae (Feb 2, 2014)

Thanks rscottp! I have been following your build as well. I am really liking the flat floor ribs in these Lund's. It is making building structure to the hull quite easy compared to other designs without the flat ribs.

I have been able to work on the boat at night a few nights this week so I have made some good progress. I got the starboard side box completely built, which extends from the front bench back to about 4' from the stern - about 4' feet in length. I removed the middle seat bracket from the hull and cut it up to make supports for the new side box. Filled in the holes through the hull from the bracket with some 3/16" solid rivets. Also removed some SST screws and nuts that were used to fill in rivet holes of the 2nd bench when it was removed.

I also started making the port side box in the back as well as a square storage or foam box in the back corner on the starboard side. Originally I was thinking of reusing some of the bench sheet metal to make the boxes but I decided instead to use the aluminum angle to make a frame and then use some thin wood for the sides and some thicker wood (probably 1/2 or 5/8") for the tops. I got the bottom profile of these boxes done so the next step is to build the vertical supports and top frame.


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## Centrarchidae (Mar 16, 2014)

Well, I haven't posted an update on the boat rebuild in over a month, but I have been able to make some progress. I have all the major aluminum work done for the floor, side boxes, and seat supports. I made the seat supports out of aluminum angle and also 3/8" plate, attaching the frame with rivets and screws to the floor frame.


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## Centrarchidae (Mar 16, 2014)

All the framework is done and I was able to start adding the floor. I am using 1/2" ACX plywood for the floor, attaching it to the frame with #8-32UNC machine screws. I also got the frame done on the bow that will support the fuel tank and the battery. I ordered 2 more seat posts and have them installed, at least temporarily for trying them out. The two seats came with the boat. I will need to get one more for the third post, but I might get all three new ones as the seats I have are a bit weak for back support. Next up is finishing the rest of the wood for the boxes and the front deck. I am planning on using Nautolex vinyl flooring, which I have already ordered and received, for the main floor surfaces and am planning on staining and coating the box sides and tops. I like the original wood look and am hoping I can get a good finish. If not they might get the vinyl as well.


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## rscottp (Mar 16, 2014)

Looks awesome! Are the seat pedestals removable?


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## Centrarchidae (Mar 16, 2014)

Thanks rscottp,
Seats are actually driver position rated, so are not quickly removed. I wanted to make the boat safe for all operating conditions without having multiple seating configurations. If needed they can be removed with a 3/8th Allen screw.


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## rscottp (Mar 16, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=345080#p345080 said:


> Centrarchidae » 16 Mar 2014, 13:33[/url]"]Thanks rscottp,
> Seats are actually driver position rated, so are not quickly removed. I wanted to make the boat safe for all operating conditions without having multiple seating configurations. If needed they can be removed with a 3/8th Allen screw.



They didn't look like they popped in and out, just wondered in the event I decide to put in a drivers seat on mine.


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## Centrarchidae (Apr 6, 2014)

Well, not much new to show since the last pics, but I finished cutting all the wood decking and am now in the process of staining. I am planning to make the starboard side into a storage compartment and still need to cut the hatch. (My daughter's idea, as well as making one of the back ones into a cooler). Got foam to put everywhere and vinyl flooring ready to go. A few pieces still need to be finished staining and then 3 coats of spar urethane. Probably 2 weeks before the assembly process can begin!

Has anyone ever riveted wood to aluminum? I am thinking of riveting the wood to the boxes for a more smooth looking finish. I have some flat head solid rivets that I think will work quite well


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## rscottp (Apr 6, 2014)

My original floor was riveted to the aluminum ribs.


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## Centrarchidae (Apr 9, 2014)

Making a little more progress today. Removed all the aluminum shavings and rivet nails and took the boat to the local quarter car wash to get it cleaned up. Cleaned out about 200+ rivet nails, a pile of shavings and a bunch of other debris. Planning to put some self-etching primer on it on Saturday - supposed to be 60°F or more. It was almost that tonight!

Took off the caps on the stern and the bow of the boat as well as the oar locks and lifting handles on the stern. Sanded a bit of the inside prior to the washing and I think I am ready to put some primer on it.
Remaining major steps as I see it are:
1. Prime inside
2. Run electrical and fuel lines
3. coat all the wood components with spar urethane
4. Figure out how to make the cooler in the stern port-side box - planning on a rubermaid container with Styrofoam insulation around it.
5. Cut the hatches on the storage box and the cooler box.
6. Install the foam and then all the wood. Probably aught to paint the inside as well.
7. Finish assembly


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## ccm (Apr 9, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=335646#p335646 said:


> Centrarchidae » 01 Dec 2013, 15:54[/url]"]Before I flipped the boat over and put it back on the trailer, I discovered something about the trailer. It is a folding design! I don’t think I ever saw a folding boat trailer. What is the benefit? Does it make loading in shallower water easier?



Yep it's a tilt trailer! Really great for unimproved ramps or places where ramps don't exist. My buddy had one for his old Lone Star. Could actually back it up to the creek bank and dump the boat right in with no problems. Also I like your layout and framing. Keep up the good work cant wait to see it finished!


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## rscottp (Apr 10, 2014)

Its looking really good! I like how you designed the back so its easy to move around the tiller area. I also removed the transom corner caps and when I went to put them back on I had to put a big bar clamp across the back to pull it back into alignment. Amazing how important they are to the integrity of the hull. I must have pulled it in about 2" inches.


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## Centrarchidae (Apr 13, 2014)

Made some progress this weekend, but not as much as planned. Got the first coat of Spar Urethane on all but 7 pieces by 10 AM Saturday. Masked the gunnel trim and shot some self-etching primer on most of the inside of the hull. Should have been able to get at least 2 coats on the wood, but it ended up raining with falling temps into the 50's so it took too long for the urethane to dry. End of day it was still too tacky for the 2nd coat. Too cold and too much moisture. 2nd coat on today, just above 55 °F, but still cold and rainy. Won't have time for 3rd coat until Tuesday. Then, flip the wood and do the other side. Maybe on Saturday I can finish the wood and primer - supposed to be warm again by then.

I decided to use the sheet insulation for foam - closed cell from Menards. Started cutting it to get started, but I think this will need to wait until all the wood is ready to go in as I would need to remove the foam to install the wood and electrical. It seems quite easy and fast to cut anyway.


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## rscottp (Apr 13, 2014)

Looks good, should move along pretty good once you get the floors in.


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## Centrarchidae (May 11, 2014)

Well, it feels like I am making really slow progress, with not much time to work on the boat. Over the last month I did manage to get three coats of spar on both sides of the wood pieces. I got the inside of the hull primed and painted with rattle-can Rustoleum multicolored textured paint

I got the rough-in wiring done and am mostly done with the floatation foam. I used 1" closed-cell sheets and have most of 4 sheets installed so I am figuring about 9 ft³


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## Centrarchidae (Jun 15, 2015)

Apparently I stopped updating this blog more than a year go now, but I did keep working on the boat. I finished it enough last year and did get some fishing out of it before the lakes iced over. I have had it out quite a few times this year already also, and have really been liking the results.

Overall view. Just put two new seats in that matched the one from last year. Swivel seats on pedistals make all the difference.

View showing the electrical panel and the radio.

Fuel tank is in front compartment. I did this to get some weight up front.

I started out putting the battery in the 2nd compartment up front. It put too much weight up front so I moved it into the compartment in the back by the radio. I put the anchor in here when going down the road.

I am calling it "finished", but I don't think it really will be. I'm already thinking of adding a rod holder on top of the starboard side storage compartment, some inboard courtesy lights, and painting the outside....




I really enjoyed working on this boat. I hope fishing from it will prove to be just as much fun, which so far is proving to be true


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## Jake11 (Jun 16, 2015)

What size was the angle you used?


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## Centrarchidae (Jun 16, 2015)

I used all 1.5" aluminum angle, 1/8" thick. There were some spots I think I could have used 1", like around the boxes, but the extra 1/2" width makes it much easier to attach panels to anyway.


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## Jake11 (Jun 17, 2015)

Great. That's what I just ordered. Thanks for the reply.


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## 25yamaha (Jun 27, 2015)

I like the wood look, it makes it look very authentic =D> 8)


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