# Installing New Bunks...NEED HELP AND ADVICE



## plt3145 (Feb 18, 2012)

Never worked with metal to this degree before and am taking my time to think this through! 

Facts: 12 foot v-hull on older homemade trailer. Bunk set-up is 2x4's on edge attached by single point at back cross frame of trailer. Has flat 2x4 attached to middle crossbar, stern keel roller and keel rooler towards front.









Plan: Install 2 or 3 point attachment of 4 or 6 foot bunk.














Challenges and questions, need input: Trailer frame starts to vee after only 3 feet and there is no cross beam. The only place to attach front bunk brackett is crossing over trailer frame and attaching to angle iron of leaf springs. Is this safe? Will it undermine integrity of angle iron and therby the spring. The thought is to drill holes for bolts and screws. Rear brackett will have u-bolts. Should they be snug on the cross beam or does it matter...1 5/8 bar, 2 inch or 4 inch u-bolt! 

Thanks for the leasing of your brain matter!


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## nomowork (Feb 19, 2012)

Those are some nasty rust spots. One of my trailers looked similar to that when I bought it. I took a hammer to it and the hammer went right through the frame rails in several places! I think the paint was holding it together.

Are you using 2 x 6 for the bunks? I never thought of using wider lumber for more stability. I may try that next time.

As far as ideas, search the forum for pictures of trailers. I got some interesting ideas by visiting a local boat shop and eye balling some trailers in their yard. One was a "V" shaped catch near the winch to capture the bow.

Good luck.


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## JMichael (Feb 19, 2012)

If it were me, I don't think I'd be drilling the vertical wall of that angle iron if the springs are supported by it. I'd rather weld a short piece (2"-3") of angle iron to the top of the existing angle and then drill in the piece you added. I'm not sure if that's a clear description, but if you took a cross section view of that area after modifying, it would look like an L on top of and upside down L. I'd also want to add some new support forward and remove that cross piece you currently have, so the boat isn't being supported by the keel.


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## plt3145 (Feb 19, 2012)

Thanks Nomowork and JMicheal! Figured 2 x 6's would lighten the wear on the rivets. And JM I understand on the 2 -3 inch iron welded on top of the leaf bearing angle iron. Yeah I do plan on taking out that cross 2 x4 that the keel is resting on. That was a shot of the mid section of the trailer, I do have another roller under the bow curve and bow stop! 

Thanks for the input guys! Hey Nomo, I hope trailer is held together by more than just the rust and the peeling paint!


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## nomowork (Feb 20, 2012)

plt3145 said:


> Hey Nomo, I hope trailer is held together by more than just the rust and the peeling paint!



Having had a trailer failure before (this trailer holds my heavier fiberglass boat), I bought a brand new one custom fitted for that boat. The old trailer was cut up and is now contributing to the iron content in the landfill.

Happy wrenching!


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## plt3145 (Mar 5, 2012)

#-o Okay, morning to all! Got trailer stipped of hardware and rust. Have first coat of primer on. Next question...do I scruff up primer, prime again and then paint or am I ready for first coat of paint? :?:


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## Jdholmes (Mar 5, 2012)

What do the instructions on the can say? I think it's usually just one with primer...but I could be wrong.


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## plt3145 (Mar 6, 2012)

Thanks JD, but got inpatient and scruffed up any way and applied second coat of primer. Believe it or not the can had no answers. Next it is on to waiting for it to dry and first caot of paint. I am like a kid at Christmas. Got most if not all of new hadware. Come paint ...dry! =D>


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## JMichael (Mar 6, 2012)

Waiting for paint to dry is about as much fun as watching the grass grow.


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