# Working on my Boat (Updated)



## Trapper02 (Apr 14, 2012)

Taking off the bearings and inspecting the hubs.

How concerned should i be with all this rust?

My first thought is to replace this rust bolt. But looks like its attach to the trailer itself maybe? all i can see is the nut. any tips on this would be helpful.






And as you can see we have all kinds of good ole rust. Can i just grind that stuff off? Then protect it properly? Replace some of the other rusty nuts and bolts as needed?


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## bcbouy (Apr 14, 2012)

my trailer looks way worse,and i put about 2000 hard miles on it so far.try grinding with a wire wheel or cup brush and see how it looks.


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## PSG-1 (Apr 14, 2012)

If the bolts haven't lost much diameter from the rust, then, I wouldn't worry about replacing them.

As far as cleaning and treating rust....if you don't have a sandblaster.....get a BFH (2 lb hammer), a set of earplugs and some safety glasses, park the trailer out in the driveway, and commence to using the BFH to knock all the rust scale loose.

Once you've done that, get a gallon of Ospho, or phosphoric acid surface etcher (you can find that in the paint section of Home Depot)

Using a small pump sprayer, apply the ospho at full strength. Wear safety glasses and a mask when spraying this stuff, and try to avoid breathing the mist. Let the ospho soak into the rust, and wait until you see the rusty surfaces turning black. When you see this, then, rinse the entire trailer down with fresh water, and let it dry.

At this point, the acid has made a chemical reaction with the iron oxide of the rust, turning it into iron phosphate, which neutralizes the rusting process. 

Now, you can prime and paint the trailer, or better yet, get several cans of Rust-O-Luem cold galvanizing spray paint, and paint all the surfaces, paying particular attention to the suspension hardware, the axle, and the cross members, as these are the most prone to rusting. You want a heavy coat on all those surfaces.


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## nomowork (Apr 14, 2012)

That bolt may be the positioning pin for the axle. 

I purchased a used fiberglass boat and towed it home about a hundred miles. I thought I had a lot of surface rust on the trailer and was just going to sand and paint. Then I saw a small hole so started pounding with a hammer. The trailer was held together by the paint! A new trailer was purchased for that heavier boat.

My tin boat's trailer was only surface rust (it passed the hammer test) so sanded and painted it. I did replace the axle though as I have had bearing failures on a previous trailer and it was not fun. The bad bearing ate up the spindle on the axle. A new axle only cost about $110 so it was the peace of mind for me.


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## Sawdust Farmer (Apr 14, 2012)

The carriage bolt in the spring hanger in the last pic concerns me more than anything else. Most of the rust looks like surface rust.

sf


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## GTS225 (Apr 14, 2012)

The bolt through the spring pack does two things. It holds the leaves together as a pack, and locates it on the pad welded to the axle tube. It is not welded to the axle tube, and the head has no flats to it like a regular bolt. The head indexes into a depression in the middle of the axle pad. The u-bolts hold the spring pak on. That one doesn't look too bad. 
As was mentioned already, get rid of that carriage bolt from the shackle in the last pic. Those are, many times, softer than a regular grade 5 bolt. If you do go about replacing bolts that you're uncomfortable with, use not less than grade 5, preferably grade 8, and get yourself a bottle of anti-seize. Either copper or nickle based will do. That stuff will be a Godsend the next time you need to unbolt things.

Roger


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## txneal (Apr 14, 2012)

I agree with everything PSG-1 says about using ospho on it except I would not rinse with water after applying the ospho. Also, no other primer is needed when using ospho...just paint it. It won't hurt anything to use a primer, but it is unnecessary with ospho. I've been using ospho regularly for at least 30 years and it is really good stuff. I usually let it dry overnight and then wipe off any excess residue before painting. You want to keep it in a dry place after applying the ospho as any moisture getting to it before painting can cause it to rust again. 

I think I would just clean off all that rust with a wire brush or wire wheel on a grinder, apply the ospho with a brush, let it dry overnight, wipe off any excess ospho residue and paint immediately. My dad was an expert in the coatings industry for over 40 years and he turned me on to ospho when I was a teenager. I've worked as a professional painter and have used many gallons of ospho in my life. It does exactly what it is intended to do....stop the rust!


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## PSG-1 (Apr 14, 2012)

nomowork said:


> That bolt may be the positioning pin for the axle.



If you're referring to the picture with the bolt protruding up from the leaf springs, yes, that's exactly what this is, it holds the leaves together, and is used to position the axle tie plate in place, on the center hole of the tie plate.


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## PSG-1 (Apr 14, 2012)

txneal said:


> I agree with everything PSG-1 says about using ospho on it except I would not rinse with water after applying the ospho. Also, no other primer is needed when using ospho...just paint it. It won't hurt anything to use a primer, but it is unnecessary with ospho. I've been using ospho regularly for at least 30 years and it is really good stuff. I usually let it dry overnight and then wipe off any excess residue before painting.




That's why I blast off the excess with the water hose, because the residue can cause problems for painting, even when you wire brush it off, there's still some left. My thought is that if you get the residue off while it's still wet, it's a lot easier. 

I would recommend doing the ospho treatment in the early morning while the metal is cool, then doing the rinse afterwards, and leaving the trailer in the sun, to dry thoroughly, then put it under cover before the evening dew sets. At least, this is how I do it.

If the trailer is wet when the sun goes down, yes, it will probably be rusted by the next morning.


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## Trapper02 (Apr 14, 2012)

Had somethings come up today, never fails when you make plans to work on the boat!

But yea most just seems to be surface rust and is coming off.

I really wanted to replace the hubs with the bolts and nuts. went to tractor supply and thought i found a replacement, i brought my old and described the shape of the axle as just being a straight. Get home and tried it out seems to wobble. So i dont think it was the right one. after putting in the bearing and then putting that axle nut back on there is still space and it wobbles.

Is there something i can measure? or do to get more info on which one to get?

The old hub pretty much has zero info on it. The hub on the other side the nuts are so rusted i can't get them off, gonna grab some wd-40 and see if that helps.


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## PSG-1 (Apr 14, 2012)

It's possible that you have an axle with a 1 1/16" and a 1 3/8" bearing. They're not common on smaller trailers, but, they do exist. 

More than likely, you have a 1 inch straight spindle, and you've got a 1 1/16 bearing set in your replacement hub.

The best way to measure is to pull the hubcap, then remove the cotter pin, castle nut, and washer, then slide the hub off the spindle. You can do this without removing the tire and rim. As for the rusted lug nuts, try some PB Blaster, instead of WD-40.

Use a dial caliper to measure the OD of the spindle, and check to see that it has the same OD on both ends.


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## Trapper02 (Apr 14, 2012)

Yeah the replacement hub is 1 1/16

You know there is no washer after the castle nut when i took mine off... hmmmmmmm

I dont have a dial caliper but i'll see what i come up with what i got.


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## Trapper02 (Apr 14, 2012)

Thats what it is the old bearings are different size than the new, i drop the old bearings in the hub perfect fit! The old bearings seem fin, nothing busted just maybe needs some fresh grease, i may keep them on and pick up a spare for the future.


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## Ringo Steele (Apr 14, 2012)

> You know there is no washer after the castle nut when i took mine off... hmmmmmmm



Mine had no washer either. I found that the castle nuts on mine had a shoulder on the inside which serves the same purpose as the washer. I added a thin washer just for the heck of it for wear protection.


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## Gramps50 (Apr 15, 2012)

The bearings should have a number on them and if you take it to a auto parts store that knows how to read a parts manual they can probably get you a replacement, Take your old one with you. 

Like others mentioned I would take the carriage bolt out of the spring shackle and replace it with a grade #5


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## PSG-1 (Apr 15, 2012)

Trapper02 said:


> Yeah the replacement hub is 1 1/16
> 
> You know there is no washer after the castle nut when i took mine off... hmmmmmmm
> 
> I dont have a dial caliper but i'll see what i come up with what i got.



I've worked on a few trailers that were missing this washer. The washer serves as a surface for the face of the bearing to ride against, so, you should see about getting a replacement.

As for a dial caliper, it's a good thing to have.....you can probably pick up a cheap one at a Home Depot, or auto parts store.


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## Trapper02 (Apr 15, 2012)

WD 40 worked on the rusted lug nuts. After pretty much stomping on the socket wrench. Lol but I got it! And guess what this side had a washer. Haha I measured it and I'll go see if I can find another.

Agreed I'm making a list on my bolts and will be replacing and upgrading.


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## moberg12 (Apr 15, 2012)

The scariest thing I see in the pictures is the lack of a jack stand!! Jacks are made for lifting not supporting a load for an extended period of time.


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## Trapper02 (Apr 15, 2012)

How well do I need get that rust off before protect and repaint? I feel I could be grinding away on that for a long while. I really gotta get that boat off the trailer that would help out.


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## Gramps50 (Apr 15, 2012)

Probably one of the easiest ways to get the rust off would be to use a wire wheel and a cupped wire wheel. The more you get off the better your paint job will come out and the longer it will go before it starts rusting again.


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## PSG-1 (Apr 15, 2012)

If you use ospho, you don't have to do a lot of work with the wire wheel. Again, the ospho turns the rust into a primer.

The biggest thing is to make sure you've removed any thick rust scale, as this can flake off after you've painted. Beating with a 2 lb hammer will pretty much knock most of the scale away. A chipping hammer will work good on smaller parts, or persistent rust scale.


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## Trapper02 (Apr 15, 2012)

I have gotten a angle grinder with a sand paper wheel and the is really doing the trick, the only "scale" part seems to be on the bottom of the trailer where it looks like they didnt paint. Plus I am going over any rough spots and smoothing them out too.

So thanks to some help from my cousins we lifted the boat off the trailer and i can commence working on the trailer this week with out the boat being in the way.


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## Trapper02 (Apr 17, 2012)

I think i will extend the bunks a little past the third cross bar. As you can see in the first pic they only went to the second cross bar. Also I removed those rubber rollers. A rib of the boat was sitting right on top of the rollers and the bunks really were not doing much. I think I'll get one of those V brackets for the front, instead of the roller. Replace that old rusty cable winch and get a new trailer jack. The hitch is also dinged. Plan on getting that cut off and replaced. 

Did some more grinding tonight and smoothing. Tomorrow I will turn the trailer over and work on the bottom side.

Not sure what that wood was for but it will not be on my trailer.






Here is the trailer with most everything removed.





Forgot to take a picture after i did some grinding. But i just hit the rusted spots and smoothed them out.


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## PSG-1 (Apr 17, 2012)

Good idea about extending the bunks to the forward cross member.

As for that wooden plank that goes toward the trailer tongue, that's more than likely a walk board, used to get into the boat without getting wet, or having to precariously balance oneself on the beam of the trailer to get in.


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## bigwave (Apr 17, 2012)

+1 on what PSG said, the first time you slip off the rail of the trailer trying to load or unload and you will soon realize what that plank is for.


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## Trapper02 (Apr 17, 2012)

lol oh man now that makes sense. My cousins and i couldn't for the life figure that thing out. Oh well balancing on the trailer and getting wet is part of the joy of owning boat. lol


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## PSG-1 (Apr 17, 2012)

If you still want a walkboard, though, I'd suggest using some composite boards, as they don't get saturated with water. That will at least prevent crevice corrosion of the steel tongue from being in contact with water-logged wood.


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## PSG-1 (Apr 17, 2012)

bigwave said:


> +1 on what PSG said, the first time you slip off the rail of the trailer trying to load or unload and you will soon realize what that plank is for.




Still, a slip like that doesn't beat the slip I saw a guy do at the boat ramp one day. It was late afternoon, and one of these ocean cowboys came in after a day of drinking and fishing. He hastily put the boat on the trailer, didn't do a bad job at it....a lot better than most of the people at the ramp usually do. 

Can't say the same for when he went to climb out of the bow and into the bed of the truck. He thought he'd have no trouble standing on the top of the winch post while wearing flip-flops, then just stepping into the bed of the truck. WRONG! needless to say, if he doesn't already have kids, I don't think he will have any after that, as groin impacts with winch posts aren't exactly going to help matters! :shock:


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## Trapper02 (Apr 17, 2012)

Lol oh man that's gotta hurt. But to funny!


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## Gramps50 (Apr 17, 2012)

Ouch, that would get your attention!!!


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## PSG-1 (Apr 17, 2012)

Yep, boat ramps are quality entertainment for all! :mrgreen: 

If you don't believe that, just go to one on a weekend afternoon in the summer time, with a thunderstorms coming, and watch the drunken monkeys scramble. LOL


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## turbotodd (Apr 17, 2012)

No doubt. Especially on a holiday summer weekend, right before a storm.

I put some non-skid tape stuff on the tounge of my trailer. Learned the hard way that they are slick when you try to walk on it. Fortunately it wasn't as bad as the other example.


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## bigwave (Apr 18, 2012)

Ouch :shock:


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## Trapper02 (Apr 18, 2012)

Well gotta take a break from working on the boat. Darn fishing trip got in the way. haha Heading out to Table Rock tomorrow morning and Staying till Sunday. Do some fishing with Mike Webb on Friday, and solo the rest of the weekend. Should be fun we got a nice lake house rented and looking forward to relaxing for a few days.

Get my batteries recharged and hit the ole tinboat full steam when i get back!


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## Trapper02 (Apr 23, 2012)

Back from vacay Table Rock was not so kind hit some bad weather so the fish bite was weak. Still had a good time in a nice lake house and just enjoying getting away.

Now back to work on that trailer Monday after work!


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## Trapper02 (Apr 24, 2012)

Need some help/info ran into a snag when tearing down the rest of my trailer. After taking off the angle bar that holds the wench I notice a weak spot in my 2" square pipe. Do they make pipe in a size that can go from a 2" to 3" or something similar? My thought is to just cut off the bad and replace it. But with what? Some kind of collar that would slip over the remaining 2" square pipe that then goes to a different size? Can I just reinforce the weak spot with a few strips of metal welded to make it stronger? I took pics but net was down so I'm typing from my phone. Wanted to get question posted tonight and I can post pics tomorrow.


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## JasonLester (Apr 24, 2012)

Angle on the corners in that spot (and extended out from it) should be fine. A good welder could fix it in no time. The other option if the wider metal is in the way of your winch post is to cut it off and weld a new piece on the end...I have thought of extending my trailer a few feet this way.


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## Trapper02 (Apr 24, 2012)

Here are the pics of the troubled spot, I think i would prefer to have it just cut off and be done. But i have no clue what you would do to connect a new piece of 2" square pipe.


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## PSG-1 (Apr 24, 2012)

Trapper02 said:


> Here are the pics of the troubled spot, I think i would prefer to have it just cut off and be done. But i have no clue what you would do to connect a new piece of 2" square pipe.




Simple. You take your sawzall or torch, and make a nice, square cut. Then, you use a piece of smaller tube, such as 1 & 1/2" x 3/16" or 1/4" wall, about 10-12 inches long, fit it inside one half of the tube, then slide the other half over it. At that point, you can either weld the seam, and also use a couple of plug welds a few inches on either side of the seam, to keep the internal sleeve from sliding around, or, you can put bolts through it. Welding is preferable, of course.

Or, you can use a piece of larger tube, such as 2 1/2" x 3/16" wall, and slide over the 2 pieces. Similar to the internal sleeve method, but the internal sleeve method is less visible.

And finally, there's the good old method of fish-plating, using some 2" x 1/4" flat plate on the 2 vertical sides of the square tube, and either bolt or weld these plates in place.


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## Trapper02 (Apr 24, 2012)

Ok i think i got it. Just made a quick and dirty drawing, but if i understand you correctly it will be something like this?


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## PSG-1 (Apr 24, 2012)

Exactly. You got it. 

That internal sleeve should fit reasonably tight, as Draw tite trailer hitches use 2 inch tube, with a sleeve that fits inside. I think the wall thickness of the draw tite is about 1/4"...most likely, your trailer tongue is either 1/8 or 3/16"

And when you cut the tube, cut off any part that looks questionable, so you're butting 2 good pieces of material back together.

One other thing, take a coat hanger, a fish tape, or a long section of cable or rod, and secure your trailer wires to this with some tape, then shove the wires back in the tube beyond where you will be cutting. This keeps you from cutting or melting a wire. Once you get it all put back together, simply pull the wires back out the front of the tongue.

If you're bolting it together, and you REALLY want to make sure it's strong, use the internal, as well as the external sleeve, and bolt through all of it. The rest of the trailer will come apart before this connection ever does.


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## Trapper02 (Apr 24, 2012)

Perfect, my cousin can weld from working on his racecars and stuff. He stays pretty busy so getting together sometimes is tuff. But I am gonna try to get him to do it since he will be most knowledgeable that i know of and will work for a family price and will do it right 

Thank you for the info for helping me.

At least i can continue to work on the rest of the trailer until then.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Apr 24, 2012)

Another way is to cut the tongue at an angle this will increase the weld length. Then weld a gusset over the welds.


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## PSG-1 (Apr 24, 2012)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> Another way is to cut the tongue at an angle this will increase the weld length. Then weld a gusset over the welds.




+1 If you cut both pieces at a 45, then flip the angles so that instead of making a 90 degree angle, you keep it straight. This does allow for a larger weld, and it allows for a weld to support up pressure, down pressure, and side pressure. 

But if you use the internal sleeve, and secure it to the outer tubing with a couple of plug welds (drill 1/2" holes on either side of the outer tubing, then start arc on the inner tubing, form a puddle, and fill up the crater), then weld your seam, whether you go with a straight cut or an angle cut, it will be plenty strong.


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## Trapper02 (Apr 25, 2012)

Need some new Square U bolts. Been looking but my inside measurement is 1 7/8" a 2" inside would work too. This will hold my spring to my axle and there is a square metal plate welded on top of my axle that the u bolt goes through.

Main trouble seems finding one that the smooth part before you hit the threads is about 1" to 1 1/8" The bolt itself is 3/8"

Been looking for stainless steel just so i dont have to deal with rust.

Just seems like i am not having much luck. Anyone got a good trailer bolt site to reccomend? i'll keep the search up.


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## PSG-1 (Apr 25, 2012)

Look up Expediter Trailer Parts. if there's a part made for a trailer, these people have it!

And if they don't have it, then it doesn't exist!


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## Trapper02 (Apr 25, 2012)

here is a pic of the bolt for reference.







and here is how its goes together.


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## Gramps50 (Apr 26, 2012)

Take the bolt to your local spring shop and they should be able to make you new one.


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## Trapper02 (Apr 26, 2012)

This seems to be the closest i can find so far.

3rd one down from the top. 3/8 X 1 9/16 X 2 1/2" STAINLESS U-BOLT
https://www.championtrailers.com/SS_BOLTS_UBOLTS.HTM

Its only 1 9/16" in the middle i need 1 14/16" Might be a snug fit, may not be the best idea.

I hope i dont have to go get some special made. I will continue the search though.


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## nomowork (Apr 26, 2012)

I have found "hard to find" bolts and other hardware at a contractor's supply type business. It's like a candy store to a gear head! I found "J" bolts that no other local hardware store carried that would handle my truck kayak racks. One of my friends was shearing grade 8 bolts on his super charger pulley so I referred him to that store and he actually found grade 9 bolts that cured the problem!


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## Gramps50 (Apr 27, 2012)

I 7/8" seems like a non stock size, I see 1 9/16", 1 3/4" then it goes to 2 1/6" all these in 3/8" diameter. From what I can tell they measure at the bottom of the U


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## Trapper02 (Apr 27, 2012)

After checking the holes on my axle plate it looks like i can go 

1/2 in D with a 1 3/4" on the inside

If i go with what is on the trailer originally its more like

3/8" in D with a 2" on the inside.

What really seems to be hard is finding one with a short shaft and more on the thread length. I guess i could get a couple of those u bolt plate pad washer type things to put a little more space in there.


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## Trapper02 (Apr 27, 2012)

This would get the job done i bet if i am reading it right, and at the low low price of about $15 a bolt! lol

https://www.drillspot.com/products/1019208/approved_vendor_0156438_square_bend_u-bolt


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## Frogman Ladue (Apr 27, 2012)

Err, no. You need a hardened u bolt. Stainless is too soft.

At least a grade 5, highly preferred is a grade 8.


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## Trapper02 (Apr 27, 2012)

Will that be Zinc? or Galvanized? I just really want something that wont rust. My old bolt is zinc it clearly didnt last so i dont want to replace it with that. If stainless isn't the way to go what is recommended?


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## Trapper02 (Apr 27, 2012)

Ok i think i have over thought this and made it harder than it should be on measuring for that bolt. While looking at springs it just hit me the spring width is 1 3/4" so my U Bolt inside measurement needs to be that too. I found these 2 for about $25 bucks. Yeesh stainless steel sure isn't cheap. But then again this boat was stored outside in the elements, i have a barn to keep it in. I probably would be okay to go with Hot Dipped Galvanized and save a few bones and not get the rust problems since boat will be stored out of elements.


Here is the stainless steel option.
1-3/4" wide
2-1/2" tall
2.20" center-to-center
Threads: 7/16"
Thread length: 1 ½"
Overall height: 3"
Inside heights: 2-5/8"
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Stainless-Steel-U-Bolts,6968.html?baseNo=91633014#tabcontent


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## PSG-1 (Apr 27, 2012)

nomowork said:


> I have found "hard to find" bolts and other hardware at a contractor's supply type business. It's like a candy store to a gear head! I found "J" bolts that no other local hardware store carried that would handle my truck kayak racks. One of my friends was shearing grade 8 bolts on his super charger pulley so I referred him to that store and he actually found grade 9 bolts that cured the problem!




I've never even heard of grade 9! That's a new one for me. I'm familiar with grade 8 bolts, and those are some strong bolts....I think shear force for a 1/2" grade 8 bolt is about 150,000 PSI.


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## Trapper02 (Apr 27, 2012)

dang yea even at grade 8 seems like an over kill for my little tin boat.


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## Trapper02 (Apr 27, 2012)

Oh yeah and i Did a little test painting last night. I painted my angle piece that holds the winch. I was a little nervous about going with the ole rattle can, but shoot it looks nice! Granted i have only primed it right now, but i got one of those trigger sprays for the can worked like a charm. I'll probably hit it with a 2nd coat then paint it gloss black.

I thought Tractor Supply had rust-o-leum, they had valspar version of rust-o-leum so i am giving it a try. But it should do the job.
https://www.tractorsupply.com/valspar-anti-rust-armor-spray-paint-primer-red-oxide-12-oz--3401166


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## KRS62 (Apr 27, 2012)

moberg12 said:


> The scariest thing I see in the pictures is the lack of a jack stand!! Jacks are made for lifting not supporting a load for an extended period of time.



This is the first thing I noticed as well!! I highly recommend a new jack and jack stands. If you are working on that trailer just on that jack, it's almost guaranteed to come down.

KRS


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## Trapper02 (Apr 27, 2012)

I guess thats why it was $15 bucks. lol i just used it to take off the tires. If i am working the underside of the trailer i just flip the trailer over its not that heavy.


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## PSG-1 (Apr 27, 2012)

Yeah, I second the cautionary advice about using jack stands. A load can shift, and a jack can tip, and if that's all that's supporting the work, then things come crashing down. 

A hand or other extremity between a hub and the concrete can be crushed, or even amputated if the trailer falls, depending on how heavy the trailer is.


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## nomowork (Apr 27, 2012)

KRS62 said:


> moberg12 said:
> 
> 
> > The scariest thing I see in the pictures is the lack of a jack stand!! Jacks are made for lifting not supporting a load for an extended period of time.
> ...



I think these small trailers are about a hundred pounds or so. I sat mine on cement blocks while working on it. The blocks have more surface area to rest the trailer on than a regular jack stand.


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## Trapper02 (Apr 28, 2012)

Finished most of the grinding tonight on some small tedious spots. Just about ready to start priming.

How long should i let it sit before i apply a 2nd coat of primer?

Using Valspar's version of Rust-o-luem "Anti-Rust Armor Spray Paint,"
https://www.tractorsupply.com/valspar-anti-rust-armor-spray-paint-primer-red-oxide-12-oz--3401166


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## Trapper02 (Apr 28, 2012)

Here is my trailer thats just about ready for some priming action.







Here is the Wench post that i tested the primer out on first.


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## Gramps50 (Apr 28, 2012)

The can should have recommendation between coats. I think once it tacks over it's okay to spray another coat.

Looking good BTW


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## Trapper02 (Apr 29, 2012)

Finished grinding off some old parts of the trailer and taking off old welds. Looks like I'll be doing some priming tomorrow.


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## Frogman Ladue (Apr 29, 2012)

Trapper02 said:


> Will that be Zinc? or Galvanized? I just really want something that wont rust. My old bolt is zinc it clearly didnt last so i dont want to replace it with that. If stainless isn't the way to go what is recommended?



Here's your choice, 

1.)Grade 8 with paint
2.)an axel assembly shearing off the trailer, and bouncing through a school bus window on the opposite side of the road.


You absolutly, 100%, must have to have hardend steel bolts. Anything else is not strong enough! Stainless is way too soft. Get atleast grade 5, preferably 8. You have everything on the trailer riding on a couple of 3/8 bolts...the least you could do is make sure they are strong 3/8 bolts.



PSG-1 said:


> I've never even heard of grade 9! That's a new one for me. I'm familiar with grade 8 bolts, and those are some strong bolts....I think shear force for a 1/2" grade 8 bolt is about 150,000 PSI.



SAE nomenclature will call it grade 8+
On metric thread, grade 9.


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## Trapper02 (Apr 29, 2012)

Does the school bus then ignite into flames and crash into a orphanage? lol jk

Ok i will stay away from SS for these bolts and get a grade 5 to grade 8 bolt. I think just the fact that i wont be storing it outside will help with my future rust problem.


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## Trapper02 (Apr 29, 2012)

Getting a list for my trailer parts i need, One thing i cant find is a trailer jack that will fit my tongue. My pipe is only 2" x 2" seems all the trailer jacks i find are made for 3" to 5" Anyone know where to look?


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## Trapper02 (Apr 30, 2012)

Well trailer is primed and ready for the next step. Just shooting that fresh coat of red primer on my trailer it looks 100 times better. I was so tired last night i forget to get a pic i'll grab some tonight.

I ordered my new u bolts, spring bolts, new winch and winch seat and some bunk mounts. Now just gotta wait on the UPS man. 

In the mean time this week i will be gathering materials to replace/repair my trailer tongue. Metal place near by should have what i need in 2x2 square tubing and then get a collar piece to fit inside and connect the old with the new tubing. Talked it over with my cousin and he said just get the parts and he will knock it out for me!

Can't wait until the trailer is done cause then comes the fun part, actually working on the boat!


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## Trapper02 (Apr 30, 2012)

If you were going to paint your trailer and you had to choose from these 3 paints which would you choose? Looking for Best chances to keep from scratching off to badly, best durability. Prefer the option to use a rattle can on the trailer just cause if i need to touch it up one day it would be no big deal to go snag a can. I used 2 coats of the red oxide anti rust primer for my base coat.


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## Frogman Ladue (May 2, 2012)

I'd go with Rustoleum. If you ever have to touch it up, the color and formula will still be available for decades to come.


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## nomowork (May 2, 2012)

When I "restored" my tin's trailer, I just got most of the surface rust off, primed with marine primer using a micro foam roller. I also used a micro foam roller to apply the Rustoleum paint. I prefer using a roller and brush as it get more paint on the surface. Yes, spraying does give a cleaner finish, but the micro foam roller comes really close to a spray finish. In fact, some gearheads use micro foam rollers to paint cars! Some of their finishes are really nice after sanding between applications.


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## Trapper02 (May 2, 2012)

Picture update!

Here is the new U bolts i pulled my hair out trying to locate they fit perfect! Thanks to Speedwaymotors.com






And here is the trailer primed and ready to go with two coats of primer on everything.













Next will be getting my trailer tongue repaired then ready for the finish coat and add my trailer accessories back to the boat.


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## Trapper02 (May 5, 2012)

Here is my picture update after painting with Valspar Tractor & Implement Spray Paint. As you can see some of the paint has rubbed off with the tightening of bolts. Some of it maybe due to i was just excited and put it on to early and it hasn't had real time to set and really harden and some of it may be due to only having one coat on it at the moment. I have to wait 36 hours now before applying 2nd coat. But boy do those new shiny bolts look good with that glossy black.

The reason I decided on Tractor & Implement Spray Paint simply cause i thought, hmmmmm tractors are heavy duty equipment. They are out there in the elements and probably gonna have a paint that doesn't scratch off lightly and holds up to the elemnts. So this should be killer for my trailer. My not be the best reasoning but thats what i thought of when looking at my paint options.

If you have used "Tractor & Implement Paint" feel free to share your results and any tips.


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## Gramps50 (May 6, 2012)

I think your reasoning was good from what I have heard from painter friends implement paint is pretty tough, it's basiclly old time Enamel and it takes a long time to really dry but when it does it tough. I would guess the Vlaspar brand would be the same.

Glad to see another rattle can sprayer around. I have a truck I sprayed with rattle cans.


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## Trapper02 (May 6, 2012)

Thank you! I was really impressed by the spray cans worked better than i ever thought they would, and i got the handle / nose gun attachment makes so much easier.

From what i am reading it seems like the "Tractor & Implement Spray Paint" can really take a long time to sit and harden so l think I just jumped the gun on putting my stuff back on the trailer to quick.

After applying the 2nd coat i will give it extra time to sit and harden... Much More than just about 12-16 hrs hehe


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## JamesM56alum (May 6, 2012)

Looks great man, it's coming along nicely, did you get the tongue fixed yet?


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## Trapper02 (May 7, 2012)

Thanks!

Not yet, should be this week. I Called my cousin to tell him i had the parts and he said we would get together Early this week. Hopefully he doesn't get busy.


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## foxmulder (May 8, 2012)

You could also go with a fold away trailer tongue to fix your trailer. Bolt one of these bad boys on, make your trailer tongue nice and long, but still garage friendly. 

https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trailer_Coupler-sf-Fold~Away_Couplers.aspx


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## Trapper02 (May 11, 2012)

Just got the call from my cuz, his hay bailing has been canceled cause of the rain we are getting so that means trailer time tonight!


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (May 11, 2012)

Pictures please.


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## Trapper02 (May 11, 2012)

Will do he should be able to handle everything and then leave me to grind it down and smooth out the welds so it blends pretty good. I am not expecting perfect but the way he makes it sound it will at least look clean, and be solid. Its just gotta get me to the lakes! haha


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## PSG-1 (May 11, 2012)

Trapper02 said:


> Thank you! I was really impressed by the spray cans worked better than i ever thought they would, and i got the handle / nose gun attachment makes so much easier.




You ain't lying!! This is one of the best inventions ever made, especially when you have to do a lot of painting. It reduces finger fatigue, and also prevents the tip of your finger from being the color of your paint project.


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## PSG-1 (May 11, 2012)

foxmulder said:


> You could also go with a fold away trailer tongue to fix your trailer. Bolt one of these bad boys on, make your trailer tongue nice and long, but still garage friendly.
> 
> https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Trailer_Coupler-sf-Fold~Away_Couplers.aspx



Yet _another_ good invention, the fold-away tongue.

Of course, if you are a fabricator and have access to welding equipment, you can design your own fold-away tongue. Where you make the cut, you'll need to weld a piece of 1/4" plate, cut to the size of the tubing, and cut where it can be inset about 1/4" into the tubing, for a nice weld all the way around, and it's flush with the end of the tube. Do this to both halves. This plate will prevent the mouth of the tubing from bending and stress cracking under load.

Next, you'll need to fabricate a barrel hinge assembly for the pivot. This can be accomplished with some pipe, and solid cold rolled round stock. Cut the pipe into 2 equal length pieces, then cut a piece of round stock equal to the length of the 2 pieces put together. 

Slide the round stock into the 2 pieces to keep them aligned, and place the entire unit vertically on the seam where the 2 halves of the tongue join together. One piece of pipe will weld to one half of the tongue, and the other piece welds to the other half.

Now, on either the top, OR bottom side where the round stock comes flush with the end of the pipe, crank up the heat, and put a good plug weld there, bringing the puddle onto the edge of the pipe. 

NOTE: ONLY WELD ONE END! Do not weld both ends, or it will not pivot and work as a hinge.

OK, now for the closure on the other side of the tube. You'll need two more short pieces of pipe, basically the same thing you used for the hinge side. Except, on this side, the pin will be removable. Use the pin inside the two halves of the tube to keep them aligned, and weld one piece of tube to one half of the tongue, and the other piece of pipe to the other half, positioning them so that when the tongue is folded out, the top pipe overlaps the bottom pipe, and you can drop the pin through them.

For the pin, either use a straight pin with a big washer welded to the top side, or, heat a piece of rod, and put a bend in it. Make the piece long enough so that an inch or so extends out the bottom. Drill a small hole through the part that extends through, this will be for a cotter pin.


Lastly, use a good quality cotter pin as a retainer, and use a split ring, or tack weld a short piece of chain to both the retaining pin, and the cotter pin so they don't get lost.


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## PSG-1 (May 11, 2012)

BTW, the trailer looks great! =D> Nice work.


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## Trapper02 (May 14, 2012)

Thank you!

Here is a few pics from friday night. I meant to take more later but we got to talking and just having a good time. Then come saturday i forgot to take a finished one cause i ended up going fishing all day! So i'll have to take some more of the finished product and post soon.

He got it welded up and smoothed over it looks great. Even went and filled in some misc. holes on the trailer for me. He was worried it wasn't perfect enough but it looked good to me. I told him my main concern was it holds up. He said of it will. He also welded a small piece of extra 2" tube on my tongue so the trailer jack would have a 4" spot to bolt to instead of only 2" spot.

So now i am ready to continue on with painting the trailer and then can finally move on to the boat!


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## Trapper02 (Dec 21, 2012)

Well took a break on the boat trailer but now im back!

Last time I left off I had gotten my tongue repaired then I went and painted the now "Black Beauty"

Got the wench post up, new wench, rubber V stop. Built my Bunk boards last weekend, just need to mount them then sit that boat back on the trailer!

Here's where im at right now.


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## theyyounggun (Dec 21, 2012)

Are you not going to do side bunks?


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## Trapper02 (Dec 21, 2012)

theyyounggun said:


> Are you not going to do side bunks?



Oh yes, i got a little ahead of myself, I plan on doing side bunks as well.

I saw someone post on there boat instead of doing the side bunks horizontal the turned them verticle, i kind of like that idea. I'm not to crazy about putting the PVC on my trailer since I went with an all Black theme and I dont want to paint PVC. Plus i Have plenty of carpet left over to do it. Then if I want to mount my trailers light to it i can.


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## theyyounggun (Dec 21, 2012)

Trapper02 said:


> theyyounggun said:
> 
> 
> > Are you not going to do side bunks?
> ...


If you did want to do the PVC they have black in the plumbing section at lowes. It's not painted but solid black. That way if it scratches it will still be black.


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## Trapper02 (Dec 21, 2012)

Cool did not know that, just figured white and gray was all there was.

I'll still probably carpet since i have plenty of it, and I can get free 2x4 Yellow Pine from the Family business.


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## theyyounggun (Dec 21, 2012)

Trapper02 said:


> Cool did not know that, just figured white and gray was all there was.
> 
> I'll still probably carpet since i have plenty of it, and I can get free 2x4 Yellow Pine from the Family business.


Free is the best word ever invented! I love how my gray carpet looks on my black trailer to. And when you step back from it and can see the green/grey boat with the black/grey trailer it looks sharp!


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## Trapper02 (Dec 22, 2012)

Nice job on ur build as well just checked it out. Coming along nicely sir!

Going to pick up my motor in the morning! Gotta get some sleep.


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## theyyounggun (Dec 22, 2012)

Trapper02 said:


> Nice job on ur build as well just checked it out. Coming along nicely sir!
> 
> Going to pick up my motor in the morning! Gotta get some sleep.


Did you get it?


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## Trapper02 (Dec 22, 2012)

Heck yea I did!

Left out about 8:45 two hour drive in the jeep back home by 1:00pm with my new motor!

She needs some love but I think she will be a good fit for my boat. I'll have some pics to post up in a bit.

I need to construct one of those outboard motor holder things so it will be easier to work on instead of leaving it on the ground.


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## cva34 (Dec 25, 2012)

Not trying to be funny but I wish mine looked that good..Mine get salt water every week or 2 and they look Ruff have to replace ever 2/3 years..If you want to clean up sand blast or wire brush.Spray with Galvanized Spray paint...Then after there Really dry spray with LPS 3 ..The other option is skip the Galv. paint and just Use LPS 3.. If your not Familiar with LPS they make 3 types :LPS 1 is kinda like WD40:LPS 2 is kinda like oil; And LPS 3 is kinda like a waxy grease made to stay a year or so,once it kinda dries it feels waxey...Corrosion X makes a long term spray too...cva34


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## Trapper02 (Dec 26, 2012)

This post is over due, but here she is in all her glory!

A 2 hr drive both ways but this vintage beauty is ready propell my tinboat to the best of bass spots. 

Just been busy with the holidays, baby girl, and fighting a cold, but I'm ready to dive in a get this girl up and running, so I can get her a new paint job.

First thing I need to do build a stand for the outboard and get her off the ground. Any tips or plans to one would be appreciated.

He said its a 57 but all the pics I seen on 57 have the white top on the cowl. As you can see this one is red I need to get the numbers off the motor I guess.


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## Trapper02 (Dec 26, 2012)

Found a YouTube video on how to make an outboard motor stand looks simple enough.

https://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=4ro1nRa5U1o&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D4ro1nRa5U1o


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## JMichael (Dec 26, 2012)

Yep, there's not much to one. Of course some are better than others because of wheels vs no wheels or some other reason but basically they are all similar providing the same function. Your link wasn't working for me but I found the vid anyways I think.


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## Trapper02 (Dec 28, 2012)

Ok new update on my motor, turns out it IS a 1956 and only 30 HP. Found the model number RD-18.

Havnt had any luck finding some decals on it anyone else know where to look? I hit eBay and a few other quick google searches, plus I need to track down or I'd like to find the "30" HP emblem that goes on the cowl it's gone but I can see the two holes on where it used to be. 

Also here is what I made tonight! The motor stand for my new motor!


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## JMichael (Dec 28, 2012)

Stand looks good. I was given this link a while back but don't know a lot about the site. Everyone seems to refer to this site for locating vintage motor parts. https://www.aomci.org/


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## Trapper02 (Dec 28, 2012)

Found the decal set at north York marine

https://nymarine.ca/56JO30WEBPIC.gif

Seems like the hardest thing will be locating the 30 HP emblem.


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## russ010 (Dec 28, 2012)

get in touch with Bulldog from vinyl images on here... he can probably make those stickers for you and is most likely cheaper than getting the one's you found in Canada


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## Trapper02 (Dec 28, 2012)

This place seems pretty handy

https://www.marineengine.com

first place i have come across that has had the "30 HP" Medallion that goes on the cowl.

Also they have the Part Catalog online so you can see what you need then just type in the part number and see if they have it. I dunno if this is old news or what but its the first I have heard of it and seems pretty handy.


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## Trapper02 (Dec 28, 2012)

Found all the suggested parts that i would need at marineengine.com for just over a $100, i was told the parts were going to cost me about $200, so looks like i saved a few bones!

1 - Tune Up Kit $18.91
https://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=OMC0172522&ptype=&Engine=&Model=

2 - Coil and Lamination with Grommet $20.79 ea
https://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=OMC0584477&ptype=&Engine=&Model=

1 - Impeller Pump $10.35	
https://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=OMC0378891&ptype=&Engine=&Model=

1 - Carb Kit $17.97	
https://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=SIE18-7024&ptype=&Engine=&Model=

The last one found the best price at amazon! Prime Member, free ship no tax.

1 - Seal Kit $18.71
https://www.amazon.com/Sierra-International-18-2683-Evinrude-Outboard/dp/B002IVECOE


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## nomowork (Dec 28, 2012)

Trapper02 said:


> This place seems pretty handy
> 
> https://www.marineengine.com
> 
> ...



I've ordered parts from them before. The service is great and only had one issue with a wrong impeller part.


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## Trapper02 (Dec 29, 2012)

What's a good starting point on this motor while I wait for my parts to arrive. 

I want to use modern gas tank so I will need to do a conversion. Been reading about that.

What size is recommend for a gas tank gallon wise? I have a 16' boat 30 HP Johnson 56


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## JMichael (Dec 30, 2012)

6 gal. is probably the most common size used with 15-30hp motor on a jon boat.


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## Trapper02 (Dec 30, 2012)

Is there any positives to converting it?

Maybe I should just get an old school tank. What's the pros and cons?

6 gallons man that just doesn't seem like much gas.

Side note reading about the old pressured tanks sounds like its mostly a safety reasons to convert to the new single line tanks


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## ecirb_88 (Dec 30, 2012)

6 gal has always been enough fuel for me, but i reckon it depends on how you fish, i boat to a spot i like,, and i sit there and fish until im out of beer, then i leave. my motor actually only runs probably 30 minutes total on a day of fishing.


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## Trapper02 (Dec 30, 2012)

I found this article suggested ove at iboats on doing the conversion

https://www.duckworksmagazine.com/05/columns/max/5/index.cfm


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## Trapper02 (Dec 31, 2012)

Been learning and reading on the fuel pump conversion over at iboats, found a nice forum member F_R who is very knowledgeable on the subject and has and easier way of doing this than the duckworks method.

Also before i go any further my buddy has a compression tester and said he would come by this week and help me test it.


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## RAMROD (Dec 31, 2012)

Let me know how the conversion goes looking to do this also.


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## Trapper02 (Dec 31, 2012)

Will do i'll keep the thread updated on the process. Im going in this blind learning by the seat of my pants, i have never taken on a project like this before working on engines was something i missed out on when i was young.

But there are some pretty helpful and knowledgeable people out there willing to guide the way. iboats forum on engines has been great for this.


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## Trapper02 (Dec 31, 2012)

Dang marineengine.com that was fast!

Already got parts in today, speedy delivery via USPS.

Also the two "30" medallions I was sure I would never find. Well they had them! Only 5 in stock so I swiped them up.


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## Trapper02 (Dec 31, 2012)

Tightening bolts on my trailer makes me sad.

If I had it to do over I'd paint my trailer differently considering how much time I put into It i should have just gotten it sand blasted and either galv. Or powder coated, my faith in tractor paint is not strong enough after seeing these results. 

Also looking at trailers out in the real world made by the boat companies is probably why they don't use gloss black either lol

Yes I was able to do this myself but with time invested and not being 100% satisfied I'd recommend a different route on painting your trailer to last, future trailer painters out there.


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## Trapper02 (Jan 1, 2013)

Got the bunks mounted, just need a boat now!

Happy new year!


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## JMichael (Jan 1, 2013)

How high off the ground is that going to put the bottom of your boat now?


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## russ010 (Jan 1, 2013)

if you have any of that tractor paint left over, just go back over the places where the UBolts marred it... it's a trailer so don't sweat it, just wait til the first time you let a curb at the ramp take a few bites out of the wheels!


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## nomowork (Jan 1, 2013)

It's like a new car, after the first few dings, you'll appreciate it for what it does and less on how it looks. Even my galvanized trailer has rust spots.


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## Trapper02 (Jan 1, 2013)

Haha good point! 

These projects become like your baby hate see them hurt! Lol

Yup I do I have some touch up paint left over


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## Trapper02 (Jan 1, 2013)

JMichael said:


> How high off the ground is that going to put the bottom of your boat now?



Ok it's not just me then it does look a little high off the ground. But based on my old bunks its pretty close, the new might just be a tad taller.


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## ecirb_88 (Jan 1, 2013)

i know how you feel! my boat already has scratches and stuff and it hasn't even left the garage since i painted it! but i think she will still get me where i'm going and hopefully lead me to some good fishin holes!


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## bigwave (Jan 2, 2013)

Trapper02 said:


> Tightening bolts on my trailer makes me sad.
> 
> If I had it to do over I'd paint my trailer differently considering how much time I put into It i should have just gotten it sand blasted and either galv. Or powder coated, my faith in tractor paint is not strong enough after seeing these results.
> 
> ...


Hey don't feel too bad trapper, here in Florida I look at trailers as sacrificial. Saltwater and steel just don't mix well, I don't care how you paint it. If I had the money I would probably invest in an aluminum trailer, but even then you have electrolysis issues to deal with.


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## Trapper02 (Jan 4, 2013)

Ok I did my compression test tonight on my 1956 Johnson 30 HP pull start.

Top was 65-70psi
Bottom 70-75psi

I have no idea if this is good or bad.

All we did was pull the spark plugs, plug in the compression tester and pulled away At the motor.


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## JMichael (Jan 4, 2013)

Did you have it set to full throttle?


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## Trapper02 (Jan 4, 2013)

you know i didnt even look, based off a post i found in iboats, they acted like that wasn't a big deal, open or close throttle, but that doesn't mean thats right either. I'll have to look when i get home.


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## JMichael (Jan 4, 2013)

Think about it, if an engine can't draw air in on the intake stroke, what does it have to compress? Think about it like a syringe where the plunger is the piston and the syringe is the cylinder. Place your finger over the tip where the needle would normally go, now draw the plunger back. If you can draw it back any, all you're doing is creating a vacuum inside the syringe. That's the same as a piston on the intake stroke. Now shove the plunger back in (compression stroke) and see if you created any pressure that tries to blow your finger away from the tip. You have to have air in the cylinder in order to create compression. If you restrict the air flow in, you restrict the amount of compression that can be created.


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## Trapper02 (Jan 4, 2013)

About time to head home, so I will check what the throttle was set to, and if it wasn't open/full I'll re-test it tonight and post results.


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## Trapper02 (Jan 4, 2013)

Getting same results


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## nomowork (Jan 5, 2013)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eSmNMWTDtZE

I've done compression tests on an older 15hp Johnson and was getting 100+ pound readings also. 

Working on cars in the past, compression tests were done by just removing the spark plugs and cranking for a few seconds with the gas line disconnected and ignition disabled. You really don't want too much gas washing down the cylinder walls and ending up in the crankcase. 

On the other hand, some say 75 pounds is a good reading too. Try squirting some oil down the cylinder walls and see if that improves the readings. If it does improve it dramatically, the rings may be in question.

Good luck.


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## ecirb_88 (Jan 5, 2013)

i just went through all 9 pages, couldnt find a picture of the boat going on your new trailer and motor, am i missing it? or is it not on here yet? just curios to see the main event!


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## Trapper02 (Jan 5, 2013)

Lol you know you might be right here's a couple of pics of the future bass catcher!

16' MonArk 1989

I'm finally nearing to actually begin working on the boat! After practically rebuilding the trailer.


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## Trapper02 (Jan 5, 2013)

nomowork said:


> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eSmNMWTDtZE
> 
> I've done compression tests on an older 15hp Johnson and was getting 100+ pound readings also.
> 
> ...



I had someone in iboats have me try pushing on the rings of the pistons to see if they move just the littlest bit, and yes all rings do move just a tiny bit. I was told this was a good sign.

When you say oil? Is WD40 ok? And I squirt it down the hole where the spark plugs were? Or can I shoot it in the holes where I took off the bypass cover?

As you can tell I'm taking on a new field I'm not to experienced with. But i am having fun learning! Hehe


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## JMichael (Jan 5, 2013)

Just use regular motor oil like 10w 30 or whatever you have and remove the plugs and dump about a teaspoon full down in each cylinder. I usually try to get the cylinders in a vertical position when I do this so that the oil will run all the way around the piston. Then do your compression test again.


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## ecirb_88 (Jan 5, 2013)

thats a nice looking boat! cant wait to see everything youre gonna do to it! hope you get your motor up and running too!


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