# 1981 Monark 1464 jon boat mod by Express



## Express (Apr 21, 2011)

Great site! iv'e only been reading for a few days and i'm already tearin my old jem apart! she's a narrow girl but she came cheap so what the heck- might as well bring her back to life. just so you know i am in no hurry and have other projects goin so be patient please. i purchased it with the 1969 johnson 25hp (cold blooded but runs out nice) i actually had it all rigged out and fished for two years now but i always wanted to restore it. these pics will show what i started with. any and all opinions along the way will be appreciated. 

































i repaired the transom when i first bought it. only the top 3" was soft just where the motor mounts up so i cut the top 5" out of the entire transom and put in aluminum rectangle 1 1/2"x5"x 1/8" wall and then covered it all with 1/2" ply.


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## bAcKpAiN (Apr 21, 2011)

I open my pictures using paint then click on the image tab and choose "stretch/skew". I then put a low number in the horizontal and vertical boxes like say 20. and it normally does the trick. Then I save it as a smaller version.


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## texxfletch (Apr 21, 2011)

I used photo bucket,chose pic, the clicked edit,then resize, then used link


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## ohiobass (Apr 21, 2011)

Express said:


> OK i just spent the time to copy and past all of my pics from photobucket only to find out they are too big. was going to attach a link to my album but now photobucket is down for maintenance. :x
> 
> anyone know how to shrink my pics to 800 pixels?



Photobucket is fine, I use it and like it! Just resize pictures to 320 x 240 8)

Click on the picture you want, and then scrool on upper portion of picture, and window will drop down, place pointer over "resize" and sizes will drop down, click on 320x240.... 8)


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## Express (Apr 21, 2011)

thanks for the help with the pics! i am very interested in the whole photo/vid editing thing but know zilch about it :? 

so last night i removed the mid bench and a few small straps that were riveted to the sides. i think i'll just put some rivets back in the holes. 
















man look at all of this room in front of me now  ok it's not huge compared to some others but it is a great improvement! (9'2" between benches)





in short the plan is to first off, try to keep the COG under control. i will be fishing on the mississippi which can get rough sometimes and if i'm sittin on the crappies on the channel i don't need to be gettin thrown in with em! of course this isn't as much of a concern if i'm in the backwaters slayin the bass. 

i want to extend the front deck back to the first support on the floor, build a rear deck that will cover my gas tank area and come just in front of the bench enough to give me a nice spot to mount a switch panel etc, raise the floor an inch or so covered with plywood, plywood the sides, install three flush pedestal mounts (one on each deck and one just forward from mid point, a couple of hatches for storage are also on my list. i would like to make a cooler livewell to install somewhere but i am already attached to the open floor so we will have to see.

how am i doin so far guys? thanks


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## rusty.hook (Apr 21, 2011)

texxfletch said:


> I used photo bucket,chose pic, the clicked edit,then resize, then used link



I make a folder on my desktop and add pics as I get them. Then I can look at them anytime I want to. I use the slideshow in windows a lot for viewing. Then I take pics all during a rebuild for future reference for my friends to look at also.


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## Express (Apr 23, 2011)

i plan on re bucking the rivets and i am also considering applying steelflex. i have some questions on this product but the Fasco web sit is very generic to say the least. so maybe you guys can answer them.

what colors are available?

can it be painted? (one member here had trouble with his paint staying tacky on the steelflex and wiped the paint off. but i'm thinkin maybe the steelflex was not completely cured? i don't know)

is it applied in thin coats or one thick coat?

i need to find some rivets to fill the holes and the tools to install them. and aluminum angle or channel for decks and floor

i'll look locally today.


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## Express (Apr 23, 2011)

WOW i guess i will be going with wood construction for the framing! at my local menards aluminum is $21 for 1 1/2" x 8' angle and 2"x2"x 8' pine is $1.25. 

i am trying to get as much info on materials as i can before i really tear into this project. it will be easier to stay on budget this way. so more ?'s

where can i get the brackets to join the 2x2 pine framing?

i am assuming these are aluminum with stainless screws?


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## Express (Apr 25, 2011)

started sanding this weekend which didn't go so well. i borrowed my friends DA sander but my compressor just couldn't keep up. so im in the market for an electric sander now.


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## Express (Apr 27, 2011)

i bought an electric sander today. tried it in a few spots and i think it will work to prep for paint. i hope to have more time this weekend to work on it.

tried calling fasco three times today and the phone just rings and rings.......? 

can anyone answer my questions? 

i know i just joined but i have to be honest guys, im feeling kind of in the dark here


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## Express (May 18, 2011)

i know its been a while but i put the project on hold while we morned the deaths of two family members. im sorry to say that we lost my wife's mother and grandmother. 

in these hard times when im sure my wife is "ok for now" my boat project has become my therapy tool. it keeps me busy and to be honest i appreciate this old girl more than ever.

anyhow on to the updates and pics which i know we all like. i got the boat sanded all around and the holes from the mid bench plugged. now i just need to flip it and sand the bottom and then onto the steelflex.


















the holes prepped for rivets









the rivets (3/16"x1/4" aluminum)





after struggling and worrying about how to buck the rivets and researching the "right" tools for the job and being the cheap guy that i am, i came up with this





i payed $11.99 for this air chisel with five bits at northern tool (what a deal!) and if it only gets me through this project it has payed for itself. i ground the pointed chisel down completely then i used a 1/2" metal drill bit to drill a con-caved
area at the end





i used my trusty old 2lb hammer as a set tool













and the result is this (in the pic it looks beat up but it is just shiny from the air chisel)





the inside









i am very happy with the results. now i will order steelflex and sand the bottom while i wait for delivery

i hope to hear you opinions. thanks


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## devilmutt (May 19, 2011)

Express said:


> WOW i guess i will be going with wood construction for the framing! at my local menards aluminum is $21 for 1 1/2" x 8' angle and 2"x2"x 8' pine is $1.25.
> 
> i am trying to get as much info on materials as i can before i really tear into this project. it will be easier to stay on budget this way. so more ?'s
> 
> ...



The best local price I could find on aluminum was ordering it from McNeilus in Dodge Center, I don't remember the price but it was still out of my range.

The brackets that a lot of guys use are Simpson Strong Ties, they can be found at Home Depot. They are galvanized, but they seem to work well in areas that will not come in to contact with the aluminum boat.

Did you get your Steelflex ordered? I think you can order just about any color you want, I don't know if you can paint it or not. When I applied it I put on two coats that were fairly thick, but I rolled it thinner on the steep part of the V to avoid any sagging.

Sorry about your families loss.


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## benjineer (May 19, 2011)

If you want to use aluminum, stay away from hardware places. Look for an industrial metal supplier. I just bought 1/8" thick 1-1/2" angle for $25 for a 25ft piece. It cost me $40 last year, so prices are down some. 1-1/4" angle was $20. A 4x10 sheet of 1/8" was about $140. It probably costs a little more in your area, but should be much more affordable from a bulk supplier. You just may have to show up with a hacksaw to get it in your truck or pay a little more and have them cut it for you if they don't do home delivery.


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## Express (May 19, 2011)

Thanks guys. Im still kickin around the idea of using aluminum. I plan on calling mcneillus to check prices. Fasco only offers 4 or 5 colors so i will check s mn paint supply for pigment options before i order steelflex


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## Express (Jun 8, 2011)

decided on the grey steelflex and waiting for it to arrive. in the mean time i'll be sandin, wire wheelin, sandin, wire wheelin, sand.......well you get the idea and if you've been there then you know what i'm sayin! lol

can't wait to be done! O

also i got a bunch of 1" & 3/4" aluminum square tubing for free from work! i should be able to use this for the flooring braces and maybe the decks too. we'll see


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## Express (Jun 20, 2011)

here she is all sanded, pressure washed and cleaned with acetone. tomorrow is all about STEELFLEX


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## Express (Jun 22, 2011)

sooooooooo that took longer than i thought it would! but here she is all flexed accept for some inside areas that i will do when i flip her over











for the most part i found the steelflex to be fairly easy to work with. well ok after the first little session when i didn't know how long i had to work with it and i wasted about one cup worth. this stuff sets fast!

i do have one question about the cure time printed on the label. i cant remember the exact times right now but it says that thin coats take much longer to cure than thick coats. this is a misprint right?


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## Mojo^ (Jun 23, 2011)

The grey looks fantastic! How much Steelflex was required to cover the outside of the boat? How many coats did you apply?


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## architorture (Jun 23, 2011)

Express said:


> i do have one question about the cure time printed on the label. i cant remember the exact times right now but it says that thin coats take much longer to cure than thick coats. this is a misprint right?



Steelflex looks great! And I know it sounds strange, but the thinner it is, the longer it takes to cure. My Marine Tex says the same thing.


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## Express (Jun 23, 2011)

Mojo^ said:


> The grey looks fantastic! How much Steelflex was required to cover the outside of the boat? How many coats did you apply?





Thanks im pretty happy with th results too. I used 1gallon but to be honest i probably wasted a total of 2-3 cups if i add up all of the product that hardend in cups too much to be appliable. You really have to be fast with this stuff. I also need to steelflex my bilge are behind my back bench and ill be lucky if i have enough flex left to do it.

I applied 2 coats. One thin coat and one thick coat but i really went heavy on the bottom.


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## JFDBasser (Jun 23, 2011)

Looks great. Getting ready to do mine tonight. Few questions if you dont mind. About how many mixing cups did you use? Were you able to pour both parts into one cup over and over again? Also, did you use your paint mixer to mix the two parts?

Hope mine goes well


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## Mojo^ (Jun 23, 2011)

I think you just sold me on the grey but I wish that it was just a little darker, more like a battleship grey. Maybe I can add a little black to darken it just a bit. Anyway, it looks great! Thanks for the update on the quantity. I was thinking I might need to order 2 gallons but that would have been waaaaay too much.


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## Express (Jun 23, 2011)

JFDBasser said:


> Looks great. Getting ready to do mine tonight. Few questions if you dont mind. About how many mixing cups did you use? Were you able to pour both parts into one cup over and over again? Also, did you use your paint mixer to mix the two parts?
> 
> Hope mine goes well



i started with four 1 quart mixing cups. the first time i mixed one cup of each part but half way through that it started gettin so thick that it i couldnt spread it. so there went that cup. then i decided to just mix 1/2 cup of each part which worked out better. at least i didn't have nearly the waste but i still tossed the cups after. realizing that i would be short i sent my wife to get four more and while she was gone i had a genius idea and used a stir stick to scrap the inside of the cup just where the oz. marks are located. this way i would eliminate the wasted steelflex because i just mixed equal parts on top of the old as soon as it started to thicken up on me. i wasn't sure how it was going to work but it worked great. 

and yes my paint mixer worked great for both adding the pigment to the #2 side of the flex and for mixing the two parts in my 1 quart cups even when i mixed 1/2 cup of each. my mixer is about 14" long and the head is about 1 3/4" in diameter.

one last thing: i had 8 mohair rollers and 10 foam rollers (both 4") ready for the job. jerry at fasco suggests the mohair be used but i've done alot of painting in my time and i now the potential of the foam rollers. i started out using the mohair which works fine but the texture is lets say "very course" compaired to the foam. so i ended up using the mohair on the bottom and the foam on the sides for a nicer look. im really glad i took the time to test this out before i did the sides. 

good luck man!


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## Express (Jun 23, 2011)

Mojo^ said:


> I think you just sold me on the grey but I wish that it was just a little darker, more like a battleship grey. Maybe I can add a little black to darken it just a bit. Anyway, it looks great! Thanks for the update on the quantity. I was thinking I might need to order 2 gallons but that would have been waaaaay too much.




it dried a bit darker. its a great lookin grey! also my shop has 160 feet of florescent lighting and semi gloss white walls so there is just a tad bit of glare on the wet steelflex when i took the pics. i think it is battle ship grey with a bit more shine to it.

good luck


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## devilmutt (Jun 23, 2011)

Steelflex looks great.


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## JFDBasser (Jun 23, 2011)

Thanks for the tips Express. If it will stop raining I can get it done. I've got all of my supplies sitting idle for the last two weeks....killing me.


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## Express (Jun 23, 2011)

JFDBasser said:


> Thanks for the tips Express. If it will stop raining I can get it done. I've got all of my supplies sitting idle for the last two weeks....killing me.




alright, i just went out to the shop to kick the heat up a bit (60* here today) so i can flex the inside and the first thing i thought was " man i really like the way she looks" lol. nothin like polishing an old terd!

that stinks dude! damn that mother nature!


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## dtwarrow (Jun 23, 2011)

Looks awesome man!
I'm a little confused. You said you are steelflexing the inside too? Isnt steelflex slippery as snot? and super durable as well? I would think doing the inside would actually make is really splippery and prevent you from decking etc... One thing I can say is that it is very strong stuff. if you are worried about leaks, don't. if you covered the outside, it won't leak at all period. just wondering... maybe you have some reason I'm not aware of, but if it is to stop leaks, you already perminantly stopped them.


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## Express (Jun 24, 2011)

dtwarrow said:


> Looks awesome man!
> I'm a little confused. You said you are steelflexing the inside too? Isnt steelflex slippery as snot? and super durable as well? I would think doing the inside would actually make is really splippery and prevent you from decking etc... One thing I can say is that it is very strong stuff. if you are worried about leaks, don't. if you covered the outside, it won't leak at all period. just wondering... maybe you have some reason I'm not aware of, but if it is to stop leaks, you already perminantly stopped them.




No worries dude! I am flexing the rear bilge area behind the rear bench where my gas tank will sit. This area will be decked over. I am also flexing up front between the deck and gunwale. The rest will be carpeted deck and sides.


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## Express (Jun 24, 2011)

i ran out of steelflex so i couldnt get it all done last night. i ordered another quart today and hopefully i see it early next week. here are some pics for you guys anyhow.



























HELP! my trailer used to be set up for a v-bottom and still needs a bit of work. i made new bunks for it and put new lights, wheels, tires and loaded hubs on it but i am really scratchin my head on what to do with this front mess. i temporarily rigged it to work with my flatty but its time to do it right. ideally i would like it to have a nice carpeted 2x4 that would land between the handle and the eyelet but i am struggling with how to do it. i would also like to get the boat as far forward as i can to get the transom on the bunks. i don't know maybe ive just looked at it too much. any ideas guys? pics are helpful.


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## Mojo^ (Jun 24, 2011)

Did you use a brush on the inside? How hard was it to apply?

I had a similar problem with my 14 footer. I bought a 3 foot section of 11 ga. steel tube and a hinged tongue connector from Amazon. It allowed me to move everything forward another 24 inches allowing the transom to sit firmly on the bunks.


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## Express (Jun 25, 2011)

Mojo^ said:


> Did you use a brush on the inside? How hard was it to apply?
> 
> I had a similar problem with my 14 footer. I bought a 3 foot section of 11 ga. steel tube and a hinged tongue connector from Amazon. It allowed me to move everything forward another 24 inches allowing the transom to sit firmly on the bunks.



i used a brush to get into the tight spots and rolled where i could. its not hard to apply its more of a learning lesson which makes it a bit frustrating. now that its done (almost) the next time will be much more relaxing.

my boat only needs to move up about 1' and i should be able to get that once i reconfigure the wench mount. i do wonder about being too close to my truck and may need to add a hinged tongue. my trailer was made for a 12' boat but i couldn't pass up the deal.


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## Express (Jun 25, 2011)

todays progress:































some of you are probably wondering why i built the front deck seat mount like this.... well i am putting a large hatch in front of the seat for storage so i had to come up with a way to support the seat without loosing the storage space. i was surprised how strong it came out. when my hatch arrives i will be able to take accurate measurements and add two more supports tying the old deck to the new. !!!!!!thank the tool gods for the air rivet gun!!!!!! better yet thank my buddy who lent it to me!


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## z0mbie f1sherman (Jun 25, 2011)

looking good...

what's with the short extension on the back seat?


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## Mojo^ (Jun 25, 2011)

Looking good! Thanks for posting all the great, detailed pics. I'm learning a lot from this project. Where did you buy your aluminum angle and square tube? 

Yeah, I'm curious about the short extension on the rear bench too. What are your plans for this?


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## Express (Jun 26, 2011)

thanks guys! originally i planned on mounting my switch panel, 12v socket and maybe a stereo with 2 small speakers in this space but now i am thinking that i wouldn't like the switches to be below my seat and facing forward. it feels kind of awkward. i may build a little a little something just in front of the bench off of my side panel on the right. maybe something at an angle facing the rear bench so i can see and easily access my switches. a stereo/speakers and 12v plug will still go in the extension. the other reason for the extension is more room on the rear casting deck. which will go all the way back to the transom.

i bought that expensive angle from menards for $20.48 per 1/8'x1"x8' ! not cheap! the 1" square tubing i got for free from work. a 30' foot canopy blew off of the building in a storm :LOL2: so i was happy to bring my saws all to work and claim the aluminum.

i gotta get movin! up a bit late and a couple of much needed adult beverages last night so im kind of slow goin this morning. my deadline is 4th of July weekend :USA1:


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## Express (Jun 27, 2011)

keep in mind i am no carpenter


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## z0mbie f1sherman (Jun 27, 2011)

very nice!

I like the big hatch in the back there!


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## Express (Jun 30, 2011)

got it wired and carpeting now guys! deadline is tomorrow by 4pm and i work until noon so she'll be tight but i got this! 4 day weekend at the river comin up. i just hope i allowed enough room for the carpet and the panels will fit nicely. be patient kids i'll post pics soon!.....................


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## Express (Jul 8, 2011)

yes! i made my deadline and the boat worked great. I still have a bit to do before its finished (steelflex a little inside, figure out my bow mount TM, wire 12v outlet/courtesy lights, reconfigure the wench/bow stop, get some grey seats) but for now i just want to fish. 

thanks to all who helped along the way and thanks TINBOATS! this has been a fun project


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## Express (Jul 8, 2011)




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## Express (Jul 8, 2011)

i pondered for a long time on how to carpet this and i hate the way it turned out! it looks gift wrapped. oh well im no carpet layer either


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## Express (Jul 8, 2011)




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## Express (Jul 8, 2011)

the old girl came a long way! from this.............


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## Express (Jul 8, 2011)

......to this


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## devilmutt (Jul 8, 2011)

Looks great, nice job.


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## Mojo^ (Jul 8, 2011)

Very nice! I really like the grey on grey look and after seeing how yours turned-out, this will be the route I take if and when I ever get a chance to work on the boat again.


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## z0mbie f1sherman (Jul 8, 2011)

Wow, you got done with that really fast!

It looks great!


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## Dragonman (Jul 8, 2011)

Great looking boat Man!!


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## Express (Jul 9, 2011)

thanks guys. yeah i made my deadline date but not the time (4pm) i worked on it until 7:30pm fri night and didn't get to my camper until 9pm. i really pushed myself the past two weeks on this boat. most days i worked on it until 1:30am sometimes 2am and then to work at 6am for 10hrs then all over again! crazy yes but i wasn't missing my deadline.


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## Dragonman (Jul 9, 2011)

Wow man Im impressed, looks great. Great job!!


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## Express (Jul 13, 2011)

some pics i forgot to add:


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## Express (Jul 13, 2011)

i dont know what is wrong with this whole picture thing but its drivin me mad! ive tried several sizes and it still says "your images may only be up to 800 pixels wide" yadda yadda! my pics are much smaller! so small you cant see the detail but when i load them they show up huge.

so i will do several posts do get my pics posted......sorry


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## Express (Jul 13, 2011)




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## Express (Jul 13, 2011)




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## Express (Jul 13, 2011)




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## Express (Jul 13, 2011)




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## Express (Jul 13, 2011)

i left a little bit of a time capsule on the bottom side of my floor


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## Express (Jul 13, 2011)

i had some time this week to finish steelflexing the inside of the boat. it was a stress free job this time around.


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## Express (Jul 13, 2011)




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## Express (Jul 13, 2011)

dont laugh at my wiring! i couldnt find a power block the day i did it.


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## Express (Jul 13, 2011)

and now it looks great :beer:


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## Express (Jul 13, 2011)

sorry for all of the posts! this is the only way it would work


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## dkuster (Jul 15, 2011)

That's an amazing conversion you did with your boat, especially given the short time frame!

A couple of questions:

1) In constructing your aluminum framing, were any of the rivets through the hull, or were they only into the bottom "ribs" and bench seats?

2) Did you use "blind" rivets?

3) What kind of plywood did you use? How thick? Did you waterproof it with polyurethane?

4) Are all the plywood pieces permanently bolted to your framing? I can't tell how those angled side pieces (where your rod holders are attached) are held in place.

Thanks for the help. I'm in the process now of trying to locate a project boat for myself!


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## Express (Jul 17, 2011)

dkuster said:


> That's an amazing conversion you did with your boat, especially given the short time frame!
> 
> A couple of questions:
> 
> ...




thanks for the compliments dkuster. i had a good time with this project

- i didnt rivet through the hull only to the ribs and benches

- i used standard aluminum pop rivets and an air rivet gun (buy one and you will love it!)

- for the the casting decks & floor i used 5/8" sub floor plywood which is sanded on one side and ok to use outdoors. its also affordable

- for the sides i used the same wood in 1/4"

- i sealed the wood with "Pittsburgh Paints" brand Ultra advanced deck,fence & siding stain semi transparent, advanced 2-way waterproofing, ultra uv protection, acrylic oil formula, in a cedar color "716" i believe. (5yr protection on decks & 7yr on fence/siding)
the paint rep said it would be the best for my application and that the colored stain will penetrate much deeper. not sure if i made the right decision but time will tell. and water just beaded up on it and ran off when i tested it.

- the seat bases are enough to hold the decks in place but for good measure i added one screw in the front corners of the back deck and one screw in the rear corners of the front deck. as for the sides, after carpeting them they were tight enough to stay in place but i added one screw on each side towards the front also for good measure. the vertical pieces on either side of the floor are basically sandwiched in place and are not fastened at all.

i can take all of the wood out of the boat in about 5 minutes. 

good luck!


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## dkuster (Jul 17, 2011)

Thanks for the info!

I'm just starting out and I'm learning as much as i can...

Cheers!

-dan


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## z0mbie f1sherman (Jul 18, 2011)

Express said:


> Pittsburgh Paints" brand



 Hey, I do artwork for those guys


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## Express (Jul 18, 2011)

z0mbie f1sherman said:


> Express said:
> 
> 
> > Pittsburgh Paints" brand
> ...



what do you mean? marketing art?


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## z0mbie f1sherman (Jul 20, 2011)

Express said:


> z0mbie f1sherman said:
> 
> 
> > Express said:
> ...




yep


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## c-ramey (Nov 15, 2011)

Where did you get the carpet? How has it held up? I'm getting ready to carpet mine. Thanks.


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## Big_Kahuna (Aug 4, 2013)

Hey Express I got that same boat with a 15hp Johnson. I like the mods that you did. Do you currently still have the boat and how did it perform after the mods. Thinking about going this route.


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## Express (Aug 5, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=324791#p324791 said:


> Big_Kahuna » Yesterday, 18:14[/url]"] Hey Express I got that same boat with a 15hp Johnson. I like the mods that you did. Do you currently still have the boat and how did it perform after the mods. Thinking about going this route.



Thanks. I do still have the boat and am happy with it. I just put a 25 Mariner on it which should push it pretty good. Hope to install a bow mounted trolling motor and upgrade the fish finder at some point.


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## Express (Oct 23, 2013)

.........


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## Express (Nov 12, 2013)

Boat is now for sale. $1250 no motor or gas tank. PM me for info


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## Big_Kahuna (Mar 2, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=334256#p334256 said:


> Express » 12 Nov 2013, 09:45[/url]"]Boat is now for sale. $1250 no motor or gas tank. PM me for info



Did you sell the boat :?:


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## Express (Mar 2, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=343428#p343428 said:


> Big_Kahuna » 35 minutes ago[/url]"]
> 
> 
> [url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=334256#p334256 said:
> ...



No I took it off the market for the winter. It is still available.


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## Express (Mar 16, 2014)

Boat is sold


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## SoFloMatt (Mar 28, 2014)

Great build!! I have a 16' monark that I am looking to frame for a bass fishing. with the middle seat out do you notice any additional twisting in the hull? that is the only thing stoping me from doing it yet. im going to stretch my front deck to the front of the existing middle seat though and do the back exactly how you did. also, where did you pick up your livewell and front storage hatch?


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## Express (Mar 28, 2014)

I would think if you are bringing the front deck back that far you should be fine. No livewells just storage and I don't recall the brand right now. Good luck


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## LetsGoMteers (May 18, 2014)

I am new here, I just got a 1982 Monark 14 ft Jon boat and the wooden transom was totally rotten. My transom looks the same as the with the elbow joints on top and the toe anchor in the bottom. I can't figure out how to get new wood transom to fit it. I don't know how to welding work or anyone who can. I am really at a loss here and any help would be great


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## LetsGoMteers (May 18, 2014)

Here is a pic after I removed the rotten one.


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