# Basic Wiring Question



## tynimiller (Sep 23, 2016)

So our conversion has just sat....for a LONG time for many reasons but I really wanna hit next spring with atleast a fishable conversion. 

This specific question is for wiring....I am 100% dumb in electrical wiring. We've used fish finders and TM's but always just wired directly to the batteries....

-Am I dumbing it down far too much to believe that if all I desire to power is the trolling motor and fish finder for sure could be done just wiring directly to the battery?

Sure a switch panel would make it easier but I'll be honest I've scoured tons of threads and I must be an idiot because once bus bars and two batteries or anything besides take positive wire from "x" to "Y" then "Z" then....I get lost.

If I decide to add a few lights (small LED ones) could these also be wired directly simply through a single switch be okay being so small or would fuses be needed and bus bar and stuff....


(If there is a 101 of wiring thread I've missed PLEASE post it!)


----------



## DaleH (Sep 23, 2016)

tynimiller said:


> -Am I dumbing it down far too much to believe that if all I desire to power is the trolling motor and fish finder for sure could be done just wiring directly to the battery?


I don't think so, but can't comment if the TM should be fused, as I don't use them.

Fishfinder mostly likely consumes 1-amp, probably fused w/ 3-amp fuse. Small LEDs draw < an amp.

See: https://www.johnnyraysports.com/terminals.htm for battery connections, but for just a FF I'd go direct. This is NOT for the TM!


----------



## tynimiller (Sep 23, 2016)

Let me see if I can explain this in writing as on phone....

If I were to get one of this bus fuse box things like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000THQ0CQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?tag=viglink23188-20&th=1

In essence I would run things like this:

Lights (+/- wires) connect to the fuse box linked above and then out of that to the battery. From the batter than positive to a switch or switch panel....switch or switch panel positive ran out and back to the lights. 

Repeat for things like Fish Finder, stereo...or anything really besides TM...as if I understand TM shouldn't operate on a switch panel or with other things just routed directly to battery...


----------



## tynimiller (Sep 23, 2016)

DaleH said:


> tynimiller said:
> 
> 
> > -Am I dumbing it down far too much to believe that if all I desire to power is the trolling motor and fish finder for sure could be done just wiring directly to the battery?
> ...




Thank you! I definitely think that could be an easy option if I decide to go direct! Thanks!


----------



## tynimiller (Sep 23, 2016)

Told you I'm dumb....that wouldn't be true what I stated.

Would it be

Lights or FF or whatever....Positive out of them to a switch panel and the negative right directly to the fuse box linked above...positive out of the switch panel directly to the fuse box linked above...from that fuse box to a 30a breaker which then connects directly to the battery. (that's if switch panels were used. If not skip)

Correct?


----------



## GTS225 (Sep 24, 2016)

Tynimiller; I suggest you're looking at it wrong. Your descriptions above show that you're mentally working the problem backwards.

You are correct about not running a TM through a switch panel. Most TM's pull more current than a lot of switch panels can handle. Run your TM direct off the primary fuse described below.

From the battery + to a primary, large amp fuse, (determined by your maximum amperage load.) Keep this fuse as close to the battery as possible. The idea is that if your primary power wire gets cut, chaffed or damaged in any way and shorts to ground (or negative), the fuse will blow and save the rest of the wiring, along with your battery.
From the output side of the fuse holder, to your switch/fuse box assembly. Fuses are determined by the individual loads hooked to them.
From the output terminal of a switch, then you attach your positive wire of the load, (usually red). At that point, you attach the ground wire of the load to the negative, either at the battery, or your ground bus (there's that word) if you have one.

Now, if one were to follow all the wiring from the battery positive to the negative, it will lead you around in a "circle" of sorts. Batt+ to fuse, to load fuse, to switch, to load, to 
batt -.

Do not use all one color wire. Reserve black for _only_ negative wires. Use red for positive wires. Personally, I use red for fused and unfused positive wires. I will then use other colors for switched positive wires. It makes it easier to track wires at a later date. You may not need to do that, if your electrical system is going to be very basic, with few loads. 

All that being said, sometimes a trolling motor will produce electrical "noise" that may interfere with your fishfinder. You won't know that until your have invested the time and money into getting it all into your boat and try using it. This suggests that you _*might*_ have to end up using a seperate battery for your trolling motor.

If you have more questions, don't hesitate to ask. It just might keep you from being stranded somewhere, (like above a dam), with no way to get your boat moving.

Roger


----------



## Al U Minium (Sep 24, 2016)

Keeping your wiring sort and connected to clean battery terminals without fuses is just fine. When you start stringing wires all over the boat like Christmas lights then you really need a plan which will include fuse or circuit breaker to protect the WIRING more than the device the wiring serves.


----------



## richg99 (Sep 24, 2016)

All trolling motors have a recommended circuit breaker. A C.B. is recommended because you can usually reset it if you've cleared the jam that caused it to overload in the first place. They can be purchased at auto dealers, but the boat devices may be more waterproof.

Don't undersize, nor oversize the breaker. Get the one your manufacturer recommends.

Put the C.B. on the positive (red) leg. richg99


----------

