# Landau 1456 Jon Build



## Timtactical (Jul 10, 2014)

Hey guys, I've been doing some reading on this site and I think I have a plan for my jon build. I got alot of good info here:https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=9074

The landau 1456 is a 14' semi v, when planning my casting deck I wanted to place my battery in front of the middle seat under the deck. I drew up a cad drawing for the decking running flush with the middle seat. After reading the above link, I may drop the casting deck down a few inches, but I want enough for some storage. The jon has a Evinrude 9.9, that has been converted to 15hp, more on that later. Lets say I got lucky.

I found a used Minn Kota Power Drive trolling motor on craigslist, and it ended up not working correctly. Turns out it had a bad main board, so hopefully it ends up working out. Picking it up tomorrow.

So far I have been fixing items that obviously the last non competent owner couldn't figure out. Which works out well when negotiating and buying a used boat.

1. These are hard to back up while sitting behind a full size truck. I purchased the boat and the trailer had a serious bent tongue.
I ordered a piece of box tubing 12" long that fit inside the trailer, pulled back the wiring and started cutting.





2.The camo paint was horrible, im sure it would for for duck camo, but I about vomited every time I looked at it. Its easier to feel good about it after some basic paint.





I picked the paint up at homedepot, its flat green color, it ran just a couple of dollars a can.

The winch had a rope on it, so I picked up a replacement strap and hook. On the front of the boat I drilled and bolted up a connection point. I think this is imperative for securing to trailer, attaching an anchor, and getting a tow in case of break down.

Also for the trailer the vertical piece of steel that the winch bolts to was floppy so I welded to tongue and cut off extra material off the top, I hit the edges with a flap disk and smoothed out the welds. Since I welded I hit the trailer with some epoxy spray paint to keep front rusty welds, and areas where I knocked off the galvanizing.

The side bunk boards are not covered and were spit and broken, I had a few pieces of pressure treaded 2x4 left over from another project. I cut them to the correct length, and wrapped with bunk board carpeting.

I do have a few leaky rivets. I ordered a rivet tool for my air hammer and will buck the rivets as soon as my buddy gets back in town. I will remove the motor, stand the boat up against the shop, I will run the hammer on the inside of the boat, and my buddy will be on the outside with a 2lb sledge.

I ordered some of this: https://www.pbsboatstore.com/gluvit-epoxy-water-sealer.htm to seal all of the rivets so I dont have to worry about them leaking in the future. I only found 1 that dripped, but I want to seal them all before I build the deck.


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## onthewater102 (Jul 10, 2014)

1456 - that's a really wide 14', it'll make a nice fishing platform.


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## Timtactical (Jul 10, 2014)

In this case, 56" is the beam width, the actual floor width in the rear is 32".


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## onthewater102 (Jul 10, 2014)

Ah - that makes more sense. That was damn near pancake dimensions for a 14' if it had a 56" wide floor...odd that they brake with the seemingly standard convention of naming jon boat models. It would be a 1432 by any other manufacturer I'm familiar with.

Good luck with the re-bucking, many have tried, few have succeeded. Those who fail but want a permanent fix drill out the old & replace with a closed end blind rivet doctored with some epoxy.


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## bthompson92 (Jul 10, 2014)

Nice boat, goodluck with the build!


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## Timtactical (Jul 11, 2014)

https://newboatbuilders.com/pages/flot2.html

I found this link, its a good read about building a boat and testing to make sure it will float if swamped. This would be useful for us guys removing seats, foam, etc.


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## Timtactical (Jul 14, 2014)

On with the motor, when I got the boat home I looked up the model information and found out it is an Evinrude 10hp made in 1983, which is listed as a 9.9 hp. 

I then went to and did a lot of reading here: https://www.leeroysramblings.com/Outboard%20Motor%20Related/OMC%20outboard%20related%20articles.html

This guy has great info, pictures etc on these motors. So with the information I had, I wanted to bump up the hp up to 15 hp. It basically gets you a bit more rpm and a couple mph vs the 9.9. So I pop the cover and the motor looks like brand new inside. The plugs are clean, but I do the normal maintenance. So new plugs, lower unit oil, new fuel lines and clean the fuel filter. I unbolt the carb, checked the numbers and to my amazement this motor has already had the 15 hp conversion done. This is great if your on a hp restricted lake and is better than just swapping engine covers.


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## onthewater102 (Jul 14, 2014)

Unfortunately the bureaucrats in the great liberal hive of CT see fit to double dip on their water restrictions - anywhere with a HP limit has a correspondingly pointless speed restriction so even if you snuck the extra ponies onto the water you're still limited to 8mph (no wake for the damn retired yuppies)

But, I'm not bitter about it...


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## Timtactical (Jul 17, 2014)

That is too bad about your state. Gotta get out in the mid-west.

So I picked up two sheets of marine grade ply today over lunch, one 5/8" and the other 1/2". Ran me $135.00, stuff is expensive but hopefully it will last. I am going to use two pieces of the 5/8" to build up the bow for my trolling motor, and the 1/2" for the deck. This will all be covered with 24oz gunmetal grey carpet from bassboatseats.com. Their prices look great, and are a sponsor on this site. I am helping by buddy bring an old bass boat to life so he ordered extra carpet for myself.

https://www.bassboatseats.com/collections/bass-boat-carpet/products/deckmate-24oz-bass-boat-carpet

Last night, (while the site was down). I ordered a live well insert, and a slam lid for it. I am going to install it into the middle seat, the deck will sit flush with the top of the middle seat and forward so it will be below the rail. Both for stability and to keep stuff from falling off the boat.

https://tempress.com/#!/~/product/category=442147&id=1527539
https://tempress.com/#!/~/product/category=610306&id=1527383


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## onthewater102 (Jul 17, 2014)

I used the tempress cam hatches on my boat - they're very well made. You should be very happy with them.


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## Timtactical (Jul 17, 2014)

I found cabelas sells an aluminum hatch, I think I will pick one of those up for the storage under the casting deck, and battery access (the battery will go under the deck in front of the middle seat.)

https://www.cabelas.com/product/Custom-Hatch/699966.uts


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## onthewater102 (Jul 17, 2014)

Sweet - they're on sale too - I'm thinking about relocating the batteries to inside the middle bench seat - and that hatch would make my life so much easier. Hmm - tempress hatches are just as easy and match the other 3 on my boat already...


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## Timtactical (Jul 17, 2014)

Here are some pics:




Tools of the trade:




It bounces around a lot, but if you can keep it on the rivet it peens it down nice.

Filling the boat and marking the leaky rivets.








For the front plate I cut two pieces of 1/2" marine ply and screwed them together to make up the 1" lip at the front. I then drilled the holes for the trolling motor through the wood and the aluminum below. I will back it up with a piece of aluminum angle on the bottom to keep everything tight once everything is wrapped in carpet and bolted together, with stainless fasteners of course.


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## Timtactical (Jul 18, 2014)

I just ordered this little guy:
https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/on-the-water/fishfindergpscombos/echomap-50dv/prod119860.html

Garmin echoMAP 50dv, I also build a transducer pad on the transom that will hold two transducers. This finder will go up front so I can use it while fishing. I have another older garmin fishfinder 80 that I am debating on mounting in the rear of the boat or getting rid of.


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## Timtactical (Jul 20, 2014)

With the leaking rivets set, I prepped the hull for gluvit. It is an epoxy that is designed to seal boat hulls. Rivets, cracks, etc., it is designed to flex with he boat unlike jb weld or other epoxy's. I started by pressure washing the whole boat, sanding all the rivets and the area around the rivets, then wiping down with lacquer thinner. I dabbed the gluvit on the rivets to fill the area around the rivets then spread it out over the rivets.

I found this while sanding:












I was going to seal the inside but after thinking about it, it would be impossible to seal the area between the bow and the hull, so that is why I went this route.


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## Timtactical (Jul 22, 2014)

As far as the front deck I want to keep it as low as possible but I want to have a battery mounted in front of the middle seat and centered. So I figured out how I will do this. I will mount an optima yellow top battery on its side with the top facing the front of the boat. I will have my front seat built over the top of that. the batter will be built into an aluminum battery tray and the battery will slide in from the front. I will have a access panel in casting deck and will be able to access all the wiring from inside the deck.


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## Timtactical (Jul 22, 2014)

see if this sheds some light on the subject.


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## Timtactical (Jul 22, 2014)

Guess what came today? That is right, carpet. I just happen to be getting ready to help my buddy restore a bass boat so he ordered 30'x8' of this beautiful carpet. Its the gunmetal grey from bassboatseats.com

https://www.boatcarpetbuys.com/collections/bass-boat-carpet/products/deckmate-24oz-bass-boat-carpet

Very high quality carpet, thick and folds very nice, and ships really fast.

Once the glue dries on the top, I will pull the staples and glue the edges.


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## onthewater102 (Jul 22, 2014)

Did you test the leak repairs with a boat-full of water yet?


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## Timtactical (Jul 22, 2014)

Not yet, right now the boat is still upside down on the trailer, the gluvit is still a litte tacky to the touch. I figured it would be hard by now. I want to paint the bottom so once I flip it over it will stay top side up. My wife finds it as a great inconvenience to help me move the boat around. She usually ends up stubbing her toe or something. I laugh, she cusses. ah, the good things in life.


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## onthewater102 (Jul 23, 2014)

Yeah, thanx to the Mrs. I have to sell "Toys" (ie my other hobby stuff) that I'm no longer using in order to come up with the $$$ to play around with this boat as I haven't sold the Tracker Tournament 1800TF bass boat that I was supposed to in order to get the $$$ to do this.


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## Timtactical (Jul 23, 2014)

Well, after 2 days of sitting outside belly up in the heat of the sun, the gluvit is finally dry. 





Here is the live well hatch with the carpet.


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## Timtactical (Jul 23, 2014)

Good progress tonight, running out of rivets makes a great stopping point.





The aluminum is 6160-t6 1.25x1.25x.125. It might be just a bit thick but I didnt want it to flex too much.


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## onthewater102 (Jul 24, 2014)

https://www.rivetsonline.com/

I used aluminum rivets with a steel mandrel and they pulled nice and tight. Much cheaper here than through a hardware store.


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## Timtactical (Jul 24, 2014)

I was looking into rivets specifically to calculate my sheer load. The areas that would sheer are the rivets that are holding the vertical supports to the horizontal pieces. Fastenal lists the sheer strengh for the following 1/8" rivets:

Stainless steel 520lb sheer strength
Aluminum 155lb sheer strength
Steel 305lb sheer strength

I will use the aluminum rivets to hold it together then use stronger rivets for the areas of caution.


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## onthewater102 (Jul 24, 2014)

Stainless is OK to have against aluminum but mild steel will corrode especially when it gets damp from the moisture in the air at night condensing on it.


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## Timtactical (Jul 24, 2014)

Yea, but I figured I would go ahead and post the ratings. I am going to run stainless where it needs it.


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## Timtactical (Jul 24, 2014)

https://www.marksmarineinc.com/parts/prop_calc.aspx

Prop Calculator

Evinrude 9.9 5000 rpm
Evinrude 15 5500 rpm

2.42 gear ratio
Prop slip of .01

According to this my modified 9.9 will give me 21 mph, a stock 9.9 will run 19 mph on a 11 pitch prop.

https://shop.evinrude.com/products/503456/Aluminum_Propellers_-_9.9-15_HP,_2-Stroke?p=778773


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## Timtactical (Jul 24, 2014)

Here are my plans for wiring. I know I am a little ways away but it doesnt hurt to think about it.


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## inlovewithsurfin (Jul 25, 2014)

builds looking great!!! gonna be a great boat when your finished... i checked out that prop calculator... how did you figure out your gear ratio? also... when i enter my info it tells me i have around .20-.25 perfect prop slip! how do you reduce prop slip? my current prop needs to be replaced cause it is pretty banged up... i am assuming that can cause prop slip?


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## sworrior (Jul 25, 2014)

Thanks for the gluvit tip. Probably a better long-term solution. I think Im also going to order the carpet you used.


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## Timtactical (Jul 25, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=360981#p360981 said:


> inlovewithsurfin » 25 Jul 2014, 18:24[/url]"]builds looking great!!! gonna be a great boat when your finished... i checked out that prop calculator... how did you figure out your gear ratio? also... when i enter my info it tells me i have around .20-.25 perfect prop slip! how do you reduce prop slip? my current prop needs to be replaced cause it is pretty banged up... i am assuming that can cause prop slip?



What kind of motor are you running? My evinrude 9.9-15 is a 12:29, so 29/12=2.41 gear ratio. I estimated that I had a .1 prop slip. Prop slip is the amount of loss. determined at a fraction.

Your pitch equals the amount of inches the propeller will move in 1 rotation without any loss. A 9 pitch prop will travel 9" in one revolution with zero slip.

A damaged propeller can cause a loss of performance, if anything you can remove it from the motor and clean up the edges where it is damaged. That will get you by until the prop is replaced.

I would fill out the calculator to the best of your knowledge.

A simple rule-of-thumb to follow when experimenting with prop pitch: At wide-open RPM, increasing the prop pitch reduces RPM by roughly 200 rpm's per one inch of pitch. So switching from a 21- to a 23-pitch prop will drop maximum RPM level approximately 400 rpm's. Going down in pitch size will have the opposite effect and increase maximum achievable RPM.


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## Timtactical (Jul 25, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=360992#p360992 said:


> sworrior » 25 Jul 2014, 19:49[/url]"]Thanks for the gluvit tip. Probably a better long-term solution. I think Im also going to order the carpet you used.



No problem, I am really happy with the carpet. I was concerned with the glue from them as it was really thin but I painted it on. The next day it was stuck solid, I pulled hard and the glue held strong. I am happy so far with it. If you do get some glue on the top your carpet, a damp rag will wipe if off.


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## inlovewithsurfin (Jul 26, 2014)

engine is a 96 johnson 9.9 converted to 15... was only getting 14mph the other day... cleaned up the prop with a file last night and got 18mph today all day! much better until i check my rpm's with a tach that just came in the mail today and then get a new prop accordingly...


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## Timtactical (Jul 26, 2014)

Man, that has got to be the best performance refresh ever. I think my boat runs about that, its fast enough for me, exp. when the water is rough.


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## Timtactical (Jul 27, 2014)

You can see how I measured the panel with minimum fitting. I drew a line down the center of my plywood. then measured the complete length that I needed and cut that off.

I then marked off 1' increments on my railing and measured the width and transfered those dimensions onto my plywood I then cut it to shape.


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## Timtactical (Jul 27, 2014)

I then cut my carpet to shape, to minimize waste I laid the piece of the carpet and cut 2" around the pannel. I then laid the carpet on the panel and use a clip to keep it from twisting on me. I folded the carpet back halfway, I applied glue on one quarter of the panel and worked my way around, then stapled the ends to hold it in place until the glue dried.


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## Timtactical (Jul 27, 2014)

I set the panel in the sun to dry and it was ready to go in less than 2 hours. I trimmed out the hole in the panel and glued the inside edge, I then used staples to secure it into place until the glue dried. I pulled the wires for the Garmin GPS fish finders, and attached the transducer to the trolling motor. Nothing is wired up yet but it is looking like progress.


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## Timtactical (Jul 27, 2014)

Well removing the foam from the seat sucks. While only using a drywall saw, you can seriously make a mess. I kinda felt like a DEA agent searching for 4 kilos of cocaine being smuggled from Columbia through Cuba. Either way, a shop vac is your best friend.


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## Timtactical (Jul 27, 2014)

This is the new insulated live well and slam latch, temporarily installed in the center seat. Just needs some more carpet.


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## Timtactical (Jul 28, 2014)

So I fired up my fish finder, coolest fish finder ever. It popped up my location on a map, so I scrolled to the nearest lake zoomed in and it showed every boat ramp on the lake, along with the contours of the lake. Now this isnt much use to those old guys that remember swimming in the creek before they flooded ol' bills farm. But this thing is sweet. 

https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/on-the-water/fishfindergpscombos/echomap-50dv/prod119860.html


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## sworrior (Jul 28, 2014)

Semper fi. Do you remember the brand of paint you used on the outside? I like the look. Did you brush it or roll it on? Thanks again for the help.


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## Timtactical (Jul 29, 2014)




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## Timtactical (Jul 29, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=361320#p361320 said:


> sworrior » 28 Jul 2014, 16:53[/url]"]Semper fi. Do you remember the brand of paint you used on the outside? I like the look. Did you brush it or roll it on? Thanks again for the help.



Neither, spray. It covers really well, I think 1 can was used for the whole bottom. I like this color green as well. Its not a gloss, its tough and easy to touch up if I do get a scratch. I am really not a good painter but you wouldn't know it with this stuff. I think so far I have used 5 cans on the whole boat.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Painter-s-Touch-2X-12-oz-Satin-Moss-Green-General-Purpose-Spray-Paint-6-Pack-249071/202058662


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## Timtactical (Aug 5, 2014)

I had the boat out yesterday, It ran great. No leaks, trolling motor ran all day with plenty of battery to spare.


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## sworrior (Aug 5, 2014)

Great news. What kind of adhesive did you use for your carpet? Any issues with the install? Looks fantastic.


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## Timtactical (Aug 5, 2014)

I used the glue that bassboatseats.com sells, and their carpet. I was worried the glue wouldn't hold, but its rock solid.

With two guys on the boat, tackle, live well full of ice and drinks we got up to 16.5 mph. Not too shabby


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## Timtactical (Aug 5, 2014)

Fishing by the bridge.


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## Timtactical (Aug 5, 2014)

The trolling motor is a bit tall, I will cut down the 50" shaft this week, ready to the weekend.


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## onthewater102 (Aug 5, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=362369#p362369 said:


> Timtactical » 05 Aug 2014, 10:56[/url]"]I used the glue that bassboatseats.com sells, and their carpet. I was worried the glue wouldn't hold, but its rock solid. With two guys on the boat, tackle, live well full of ice and drinks we got up to 16.5 mph. Not too shabby



After recently finding CT's law restricting engine size to the USCG sticker limits I'm wishing I had an up-powered smaller size motor...16.5mph in a 1432 with all that weight certainly confirms your motor is a very special breed of 9.9


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## Timtactical (Aug 5, 2014)

I am not limited on any of my lakes, I wouldn't mind trading it to someone for an electric start 20hp :wink:


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## onthewater102 (Aug 5, 2014)

Alas that is not me, I've got a pull start - and it would be stupid from an economic point of view to convert it, though I've certainly toyed with the idea. Even a remote steering setup would not clear me of the damning 15hp sticker in my boat. Oh well.


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## Timtactical (Aug 6, 2014)

I too was looking at converting to electric start. But for what those suckers want for just a fly wheel I will pass.


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## richg99 (Aug 13, 2014)

You may want to re-think the treated lumber bunk boards. Do a search here for treated lumber. Even though they are covered with carpet, wet carpet will let the chemicals leech through. Constant contact every time you haul the boat would not be a good thing.


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## Ail (Aug 14, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=363266#p363266 said:


> richg99 » 13 Aug 2014, 23:38[/url]"]You may want to re-think the treated lumber bunk boards. Do a search here for treated lumber. Even though they are covered with carpet, wet carpet will let the chemicals leech through. Constant contact every time you haul the boat would not be a good thing.



Oh my god dude. You just in advertantly solved my mysterty corrosion issue I had over the off-season. Man, the last guys who owned this boat and trailer were a couple of knuckleheads. Pressure treated everything! Even the bunk boards I am now sure of it.

So, to anyone using pressure treated bunks, take it from me, they will mark a boat even through bunk carpet. My boat is bare aluminum currently so it will be worse than a painted boat, but still.

Thanks, richg99 for the tip. I feel dumb for not thinking of that as the probable cause.


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## Timtactical (Aug 14, 2014)

I never even thought about that. I will keep an eye on it. I guess one benefit is the bottom of my hull is painted.


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