# 14' JBoat Fixer Upper



## GAHunter (Jul 30, 2019)

Hello Everyone, new around here! Just recently bought a 14'... not sure of the make/model, Jon Boat. Unfortunately I have yet to find a HIN.. it has some registry #'s on the side. DNR told me it looks like it's not current and the numbers assigned were seemingly assigned to another vessel. They mentioned 1973 but that's all they would give me.

They are telling me I will need to find a HIN or run through without and have the boat inspected. I will be figuring all that out before moving much further into it this.

I will go ahead and post some pictures over the next couple days and hopefully I'll be able to get further into this. 

I bought it from a coworker, 55lb minkota trolling motor, boat, trailer, 2 good batteries, couple cheap paddles, and trailer for $200.

Trailer made it the hour ride home, until the last 200 yards. Bearing went out on passenger side. Project #2. Have a bearing puller on the way to help get the rear race off. One is most the way but the other was stuck all the way back. I hammered on it for a while and got it to move about 1/4". Going to try and pull it before I roto it off. 

Figured I'd go ahead and do both sides, it's an old trailer. Other one almost pulled off with the hub. I've cleaned up the spindles and those looks ok so far so hopefully all will go well.

Trailer has a serial/tag. Made in Mississippi by... Dixie Craft Trailers. 

I will throw up some quick pics shortly.

Thanks!


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## GAHunter (Jul 30, 2019)

Transom board is decent. But I think I'm going to pull/replace it. Mainly to see if there might be a hin behind it somewhere... and also to clean up the bolts, there are some holes that I may try and clean out and refill. Once done (filling, replacing rusted screws, transom, strip/sand) I plan to epoxy the bottom and sides to try and dbl seal everything. 

Thanks!


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## GAHunter (Jul 30, 2019)

Closer look at rear and transom board:


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## RaisedByWolves (Jul 31, 2019)

Not bad for the money.

Id say that transom is on its way out for sure.

Id remove that and while its off try and straighten out as much of the dents and boltholes as possible before replacing it.

Good call on the wheel bearings. Might as well go through the whole trailer at this point and save yourself grief later.


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## GAHunter (Jul 31, 2019)

Ty! I will jump on that this weekend hopefully. I replaced the lights on the trailer, may replace some of the bolts too.. why not.

I have an old hand me down 10HP(I think it was) motor somewhere.. Evinrude. It was my grandfather's, it sat on an old john boat for 25+ years out in the weather. Me and a buddy opened her up, cleaned it a bit, dumped out the old gas, replaced some hoses and to my surprise it cranked up and ran pretty good. I just got to remember what I did with it lol. Its stored somewhere, just been 10 years +- since we did that. If not I may have to find me something else. Oh well, that will be down the road.

The paint is coming off, seems like it's just a single coat or 2 on the bottom. Going to see what a pressure washer will take off and then do some more stripping. Its scratched and dinged pretty good on the bottom. May just hit it with a wire brush/drill (something aluminum or something that wont get in there and start rusting).

I'll keep yall updated!


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## GAHunter (Aug 2, 2019)

Races are off.. one chewed in pretty good(probably why it was so hard to move), ended up cutting a groove in the race (with rotozip) and laid a chisel side ways and 1 good wack broke it apart and it pulled right off. The new hubs I ordered dont seem to be right..

I'm afraid I measured the spindle wrong.. the hub slides on a couple inches then wont budge at all.. Thinking about punting on fixing this trailer. It's pretty old. May focus on the boat for now and send these hubs back to amazon.


Spindle measures 3-1/4" around.. I had initially thought it was 3 1/8, which I found a chart for that said 1" bearings.. I have no idea on 3 1/4. 


Not going as well as I had hoped. But tomorrow is another day. Going to try and find a caliper tomorrow so I can get a better measurement just to be sure. Tomorrow is paint strip day, weather permitting.


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## GAHunter (Aug 4, 2019)

Yesterday was semi productive. Got a lot of the paint off. Going to hit it with a pressure washer (especially around rivets etc) and should have her mostly done. I used a combination of paint stripper and a sanding wheel. Tried to not touch the rivets with the sand wheel.

Will then flip it over, pressure wash the inside and pull the transom board. No sign of a HIN still.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Aug 5, 2019)

GAHunter said:


> Races are off.. one chewed in pretty good(probably why it was so hard to move), ended up cutting a groove in the race (with rotozip) and laid a chisel side ways and 1 good wack broke it apart and it pulled right off. The new hubs I ordered dont seem to be right..
> 
> I'm afraid I measured the spindle wrong.. the hub slides on a couple inches then wont budge at all.. Thinking about punting on fixing this trailer. It's pretty old. May focus on the boat for now and send these hubs back to amazon.
> 
> ...


Might be 1-1/16th inch spindles and bearings.


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## GAHunter (Aug 7, 2019)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> GAHunter said:
> 
> 
> > Races are off.. one chewed in pretty good(probably why it was so hard to move), ended up cutting a groove in the race (with rotozip) and laid a chisel side ways and 1 good wack broke it apart and it pulled right off. The new hubs I ordered dont seem to be right..
> ...




Thank you! I'm going to measure them tomorrow to be sure then try and send these back and get thr right ones.(hopefully).

I am moving toward fixing the transoms next. I got all the bolts and screws removed. But I have a feeling I'm going to have to drill/ pull rivets:


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## GAHunter (Aug 7, 2019)

Well the middle 2 arrows isn't a part I can remove. Just noticed it's part of the boat. Soo removing at least 1 (or both) of the brackets is probably my only option.


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## GAHunter (Aug 7, 2019)

Old transom board is out. Going to have a lot of holes to fill. They used drywall screws and the 3 bolts.

6 holes through the back of the boat. I plan on cleaning em up, flatten a bit and braze them closed I may keep 2 and use for 2 more smaller bolts to help hold the board. Unless the 3 + some light sealant (on the board around the bolt holes primarily) would work just fine?

No sign of a HIN anywhere. Looks like in going to have to go the inspection route when it comes time to register.


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## RaisedByWolves (Aug 7, 2019)

GAHunter said:


> Well the middle 2 arrows isn't a part I can remove. Just noticed it's part of the boat. Soo removing at least 1 (or both) of the brackets is probably my only option.



By Brackets do you mean the corner support pieces?


I removed mine and the old wood, used Epoxy to sandwich two pieces of 3/4" ply together than reinstalled the transom with a 1.5" aluminum channel as a cap.


It is rock solid.


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## RaisedByWolves (Aug 7, 2019)

Oops, hang fire.


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## GAHunter (Aug 7, 2019)

RaisedByWolves said:


> GAHunter said:
> 
> 
> > Well the middle 2 arrows isn't a part I can remove. Just noticed it's part of the boat. Soo removing at least 1 (or both) of the brackets is probably my only option.
> ...



Yes thank you, Corner supports. So you removed those completely? (If you added back afterwards what method did you use to reattach?) Sorry I tried looking at your posts to see if you might have a picture, if that's the same boat you are referring to? I appreciate the suggestions! I'm picturing a few things and they are prob all not what you have done lol.


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## RaisedByWolves (Aug 7, 2019)

Here you go.

I added pics and descriptions in this thread.


https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=46694&p=467510#p467510


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## GAHunter (Aug 7, 2019)

Thank you! I appreciate you taking the time to do that, hopefully I can get mine removed fairly eas. I will add some updates soon. I should have my caliper tomorrow. Hopefully you are right on the trailer spindle/bearings. I found the right ones so if it measures out I should be able to have her rolling again. We shall see. Thanks again!


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## RaisedByWolves (Aug 8, 2019)

No problem.

If I were you I would look at making a doubled transom like I did and cover all but maybe 4" of the lower transom with it.

Then again thats thinking about using a 25hp which should be the max for that hull. If you were going with a 9.9 you would be OK with just replacing whats there, but if you're already doing it......


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## GAHunter (Aug 8, 2019)

RaisedByWolves said:


> No problem.
> 
> If I were you I would look at making a doubled transom like I did and cover all but maybe 4" of the lower transom with it.
> 
> Then again thats thinking about using a 25hp which should be the max for that hull. If you were going with a 9.9 you would be OK with just replacing whats there, but if you're already doing it......



I'm not quite sure how big I'll go just yet, but hey why not make it so I can do whichever. I may just do that, I also got my caliper in today. The spindles on the trailer measure .99". So I dont really know what's up with the hubs. Unless I should have to really push it on there with a lot of force.. I expected a little resistance but it wont move at all once it gets to a certain point. The race I cut off measures the same ID.. One side is a little rough(spindle), I sanded it down as best I could, the other side is almost perfect but wont get any further either if I try the hub on that side.. I may try her again tomorrow


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Aug 8, 2019)

Pictures help.


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## GAHunter (Aug 9, 2019)

I got em on. They wouldn't move again so I pulled back off and went in hardcore with sanding. Sprayed some pb blaster and put a little grease and they almost jumped all the way on by themselves. Smh lol. Now to find something I can put around these caps.. they dont want to go on straight at all. Hoping I have a socket I can put over and tap on.


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## GAHunter (Aug 9, 2019)

Test ride went well. One thing after another after another.

Cant get the tail lights to work. Checked power from truck and got nothing. Found where one of the tow fuses was bypassed with a piece of wire... removed that and replaced with an actual fuse.. rest look good.. still nothing from the connection point. I'll test from wires tomorrow.. its too dang hot out lol


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## GAHunter (Aug 9, 2019)

GAHunter said:


> I got em on. They wouldn't move again so I pulled back off and went in hardcore with sanding. Sprayed some pb blaster and put a little grease and they almost jumped all the way on by themselves. Smh lol. Now to find something I can put around these caps.. they dont want to go on straight at all. Hoping I have a socket I can put over and tap on.



Edit: 

Tapped the ridge that runs around the cap with a metal dowel and hammer, tap turn tap turn etc went on first fine.


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## GAHunter (Aug 10, 2019)

Time to clean up the inside..


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## GAHunter (Aug 10, 2019)

Decided to clear a little more of the outside. Waiting to figure out exactly what I wanna do with the inside. So before I start sanding and cleaning that, I'll think that over some more..

How clean is clean if I plan to use epoxy on the bottom? 






We talking every spec of paint has to be gone? I got to go over rivets with a brush, and around the rails and it should be done.

There are a few cracks I am going to address before epoxy. I did leave 2 or 3" of water in it over night and it looks like most if not all stayed in there. Couldnt see any leaks right off.


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## GAHunter (Aug 10, 2019)

Closer look, need something less aggressive to hit the rivets with if needed. The grinder tends to knock the heads down too much for my liking so I steered clear of those. 






Got some obvious spots to hit, but hoping I am getting close lol. Tired of sanding


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## 1960 yellowboat (Aug 13, 2019)

I used an orbital sander on mine, 220 grit. take your time. don't need every speck of old paint off. Make sure that you prime it first, at least two coats.
I used 3 coats of Rustoleum to finish it. You can get a "hardener" aditive that makes the paint rock hard.


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## GAHunter (Aug 14, 2019)

Thanks yellow! Good looking boat you got there. Hopefully my paint will look half as good lol. 

I'll finish up the sanding this week/weekend, then I'm going to be brazing some holes/small cracks. They dont seem to be leaking, but I'm going to do it anyway before I epoxy the bottom.

The back I do have a question on. The 4 posts in the center. Should those be removed? I imagine it was for the motor but wasnt exactly sure.. I'd like to clean it up obviously but if not needed I may remove and close them up. 

I have quite a few holes in the back.. should I be fine with the main transom bolt holes (one left right and center)or do I need to plan on using all the holes? (The 3 running vertically on the left and right side)





Thanks!!


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## 1960 yellowboat (Aug 14, 2019)

If the 4 posts are brackets on the back of the boat, NO! those re-enforce the transom.
The holes in the back center are for the wooden outboard mounting plate. The horizontal ones near the top were probably for handles at some time.
The vertical ones on the sides? could be anybody's guess.
By the way, how to you braze aluminum?
I'd just put stainless steel bolts in the hole along with some caulk and not worry


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## GAHunter (Aug 14, 2019)

Thanks Yellow! I believe they are, as you mentioned, for the mounting plate.. the transom was cut around those so they never passed through the previous transom.

The 3 holes actually line up with the holes in the supports (see below). I guess I could bolt straight through and call it a day. I just want to make it look better than it was lol. I didnt even notice those lined up til I went to get a inside pic .

They had dry wall screws going through the back, into the transom, and had like 3 or 4 washers reducing in size and about an inch of sealant piled on top. It was just messy lol. Here is the holes from the other side:





As far as brazing aluminum, I'd use map gas and some aluminum brazing rods. I feel pretty confident i could do it, I've adhered stainless flanges to a beer keg with propane and silver solder. Cant be much more difficult (outside of it being an even larger heat sink). 

On a side note, something I've been worried about was getting this thing registered with no hin.. I called and was told I'd have to submit the registration, pay and then have it inspected by dnr(the old reg#s on it had been reassigned out to another vessel).. well I put in the registration paperwork and paid and 10 mins later I get an successful registration email with my numbers... I'll take it lol.


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## GAHunter (Aug 14, 2019)

Oh there are more small holes lol. Didnt circle those


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## 1960 yellowboat (Aug 14, 2019)

I didn't know that you could braze aluminum, wish I did!
OK back to those vertical holes.
If the two flanges stick out a bit from the aft metal, then the transom board goes under them and the bolts go straight through from the outside through the wood and flanges.
If the flanges are flush, then the wood goes over them. I had the same set up in my boat.
Those flanges and the outer motor support plate is what holds the transom wood to the boat.
A lot of the builders here prefer plywood for transom wood but I like using Oak or Pine boards well sealed.
You got lucky on that registration thing, down here in Florida, they tell you to go fly a kite and you have to buy the kite!


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## GAHunter (Aug 14, 2019)

Ah ok, yes so the board goes behind the supports, I pulled the old board out. It was screwed in from the back side in all those holes. And then 3 drywall screws through the vertical support into the other side of transom.

The 4 bolts that are close together are straight through the aluminum, just sticking out, the transom was notched so that they didnt touch it, there isnt or wasnt any board on the outside of the boat. Just 4 posts through the aluminum. So most likely can remove those? Or still need to stay? I'm not even sure how they are fastened, gotta dig under the sealant lol. I'll go do that real quick and report back.


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## GAHunter (Aug 14, 2019)

Looks to be Philip's head, of some sort lol


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## 1960 yellowboat (Aug 14, 2019)

Good Lord!
Did you get this boat from Jed Clampett?
All aluminum boats have or should have a support board on the back of the transom under the outboard.

Its the brown part on my boat. Ya gotta have it.
Yes, I'd take those bolts out.
Oh and all the bolts and screws you use should be stainless steel.
Duh, unless ya'll gots a passel of drywall ska-rews LOL


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## RaisedByWolves (Aug 14, 2019)

GAHunter said:


> As far as brazing aluminum, I'd use map gas and some aluminum brazing rods. I feel pretty confident i could do it, I've adhered stainless flanges to a beer keg with propane and silver solder. *Cant be much more difficult:*) (outside of it being an even larger heat sink).



Ah, yeah about that aluminum brazing.

Its going to be a lot harder than you think. The problem is that the brazing rod only melts somewhere around within 100* of the actual aluminum.

Overshoot the temp and you blow a big thin edged hole in the boat that is near impossible to fix.


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## GAHunter (Aug 14, 2019)

RaisedByWolves said:


> GAHunter said:
> 
> 
> > As far as brazing aluminum, I'd use map gas and some aluminum brazing rods. I feel pretty confident i could do it, I've adhered stainless flanges to a beer keg with propane and silver solder. *Cant be much more difficult:*) (outside of it being an even larger heat sink).
> ...



Wellllll shat. I didnt think about that lol. It is thin... best alternative.. Jbweld? (Primarily for the lil crack in the bottom). I can use stainless screws or maybe rivets to fix the holes in the back.


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## GAHunter (Aug 14, 2019)

Ahhhhhh so I sandwich the aluminum between the boards? Was thinking it was just needed on inside. I should make it same size on both sides?


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## 1960 yellowboat (Aug 15, 2019)

GAHunter said:


> Ahhhhhh so I sandwich the aluminum between the boards? Was thinking it was just needed on inside. I should make it same size on both sides?



Yes, the aluminum back end of the boat is a very thin piece of metal and in order to support the weight and thrust of an outboard you need it to be sandwiched between two pieces of wood. For the outer plate, I do prefer plywood. At least 1/2 inch thick. 3/4 is better.Seal the hale out of it too.
West marine sells an epoxy for filling holes and cracks in aluminum. You apply it to one side and then heat the reverse side with a propane torch.The heat causes the material to be dawn into the crack by capillary action.
If you use it to fill holes, cut a beer can apart and use a piece of it to cover the hole from the inside.Then epoxy the outside of the hole. The coating on the inside of the can acts as a release agent so you can easily remove it after the epoxy has set.
Make the outer board in a rough triangular shape. See my picture,make it big enough to support the engine and cover as many holes as you can.
By the way, If you don't have an engine yet, MORE IS NOT BETTER, 10 to 15 HP will be tops in my opinion. 6 to 8 is often better. Whats the rush? Ya wanna fish or ski? Down here in green hell the good ole boys overpower everything. 50 hp on a 14 ft jon boat is not unusual at all.


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## GAHunter (Aug 15, 2019)

Thank you for clearing that up, that helps a lot! Wolves mentioned that's how he did his, I understand what he did now as well. Awesome.

Yeah I'm probably not going to go too big. This is just going to be for taking my kids fishing, and to get me to the harder to reach areas of a wma that surrounds a near by lake. The interior I may do a little something. But don't see me doing carpet etc if I plan on hauling out animals. Could get messy.

Gonna use it to locate/slip up on Turkeys, fish, deer/bear hunt, seemed like a solid reason to buy a jon boat anyway lol. 

I'm an over thinker when it comes to fixing or building stuff, I appreciate all the feedback and help. Primary goal is to make this look decent and last a little while.


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## 1960 yellowboat (Aug 15, 2019)

That old 10 horse you have should be plenty.
As far as the inside goes, pressure wash it to get the crud out and then paint it. I used a good grade of exterior house paint on mine. Latex. It worked fine. Just remember to use a flat paint as anything glossy will bounce the sun right into your eyes. I put an anchor pully $7.00 at wal mart on the bow and another on the stern. A clamp on boat seat is nice too, saves the back. A set of oars and a paddle should just about do it. I painted mine flat white and a gal. is enough for many re paints. Make sure you have life jackets for the kiddies.
I'm much the same as overthinking goes. I plan everything out to the last screw and re do everything over in my mind before I act. As time goes on, you will add little things like attachment points for rod holders, stringers, etc. I made guide ons for the trailer out of PVC for super cheap and am in the process of putting a bimini top on that I got for free.
Wood floors and carpeting add to the cost and weigh down a boat not designed for it.
I lived for years with just the basics like an anchor made out of a coffee can filled with concrete and oars instead of a motor. 
But that was when I was younger and in much better shape. LOL
Whatever you decide to do, a lot of the fun is making the boat uniqutely yours.
Have fun, think outside the box,and do it on the cheap.


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## GAHunter (Aug 15, 2019)

I'm trying to find the motor . It was stored somewhere and no one can remember.. so chances are it's gone. Unfortunately. Would have been nice not to have to spend that lol. Maybe I'll find it sometime.. there have been 3 or 4 different moves between my parents and myself so there is no telling. Last time I saw it was at least 8 or 9 years ago. Maybe more. I've been looking on craigslist and Facebook market.. nothing good as of yet. 

I think I will paint it on the inside, maybe take some pine (1x12), stain, seal up and put on top of the benches. Will definitely go with a clamp on swivel seat, I saw where many strap em down, gonna get a cover too, I dont have any covered storage unfortunately. I like the coffee can idea too.


I'm thinking of Fasco Steelflex on the bottom, either a pigment or just rolling on clear on bottom and sides, then paint over that whatever color I decide. I gotta track down some marine grade plywood too. Lowes/home depot dont have it, maybe one of the lumber yards will. I'm gonna draw out a cardboard form for my motor plate. Think I may paint/epoxy everything then put the transom back in. I may have to drill out the rivets in the support bracket and replace with bolts through the side of boat. Not sure how else I'll get the transom back in there otherwise. I took a jig saw and cut it in half to get it out.


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## 1960 yellowboat (Aug 15, 2019)

The boating supply stores sell bottom paint for aluminum boats but it is expensive. Since you are going to use an epoxy undercoat, perhaps Rust o leum would work.

The wood covers on the seats is exactly what I did. Got 1X12 pine, stained it walnut with oil based stain and covered it with many coats of marine polyurethane spar varnish. I got both the stain and varnish at Home Depot.

As far as the new transom wood goes,If you can get the corner braces off, then you can slide the wood down from the top. Otherwise you'll have to remove the flanges and re attach them after you bolt the transom wood back in. The holes in the back will serve as a guide for replacing the flanges. The wood, being fitted to the transom, will show through the holes and you can drill the bolt hole in from the back.
The bolts, now sticking through the metal and wood will act as pins for the flanges.
I'd use small stainless bolts or pop rivets [ my first choice] to re attach the flanges to the hull.

Tommorrow or Saturday I will show you what I made out of PVC to support a tarp over my boat to keep it dry.


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## 1960 yellowboat (Aug 16, 2019)

I don't have any inside storage for my boat either. but this is how I keep the boat dry.
First, you need to get a tarp, {Harbor Freight?] that is at least 2 or 3 feet longer than the boat.

Next, you'll need at least 4 pieces of PVC from Home Depot. Any size will do as long as it is the thick wall kind.
Get 6 T's, 6 endcaps and 2 45 degree elbows.
Cut 3 pieces of pipe at least 12 inches longer that the maximum depth of the boat.
On each end of these pipes place a T. The top one 90 degrees off from the bottom one. You'll have an exaggerated H
On the bottom T, put two 12 inch pieces of pipe with an end cap.
When you put these in the boat,centered,the ends will be facing the sides of the boat
One each in the rear, one in the front and one in the middle.
Join the 3 uprights with two long pieces of PVC pipe.
At this point you will have a framework to support the tarp.
At the back end of the support and the front end add a 12 inch piece of pipe and then the elbow.
Put a piece of PVC into the elbow long enough to go past the bow and motor.
Drape your tarp over it, centered and using rope and bungee cords and tent pegs, secure the tarp to the ground at an angle going away from the boat.
You've basically made a removable tent to cover your boat.
Mine works fine here in Florida where it rains every dam day!


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## GAHunter (Aug 16, 2019)

Awesome, thank you for the idea! I will have to tackle that soon aswell!

Is this what we are talking about as far as the motor plate? 

Maybe just a touch less wide.. figure I'd use 3/4 on both sides and cap with a new aluminum plate (as Wolves described I believe).







I found some epoxy on amazon that I'm thinking about pulling the trigger on, Goop Coat it I think its called. Then the paint I may go black and red (black on the Lower parts and red around). Then either white on the inside or a light grey.. I'll throw up an example in just a bit.

Thanks Yellow!


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## 1960 yellowboat (Aug 16, 2019)

GAHunter said:


> Awesome, thank you for the idea! I will have to tackle that soon aswell!
> 
> Is this what we are talking about as far as the motor plate?
> 
> ...



Yes, that is perfect. Wide is good.I like that color scheme too.


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## GAHunter (Aug 16, 2019)

Ty Sir! I'm thinkin something like...





Tried to do it with my phone lol. Rough

Maybe black on the back with red transom board..


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## GAHunter (Aug 17, 2019)

Just a quick first coat on the interior, gotta finish the very back but need to clean it up a little more first. Will probably do 2 or 3 coats.

Thought I might luck up on the "oops" paint but they had every other color except white and gray it seemed like. 9 dollars would have been nice. I went with Valspar porch floor and patio exterior paint, was already light grey and is about exactly the color I had in mind.


Before/after:


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## 1960 yellowboat (Aug 18, 2019)

that looks perfect.
you're getting the hang of this restoration business


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## GAHunter (Aug 18, 2019)

Checking around for a motor, saw this: Guy claims it's not locked up and turns over he just dont have time to tinker with it.






Never know I guess, but not bad?


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## 1960 yellowboat (Aug 18, 2019)

Older mercs can be a nightmare to repair, Plus, I dont see a lower end in the pic.
Stick with Evinrude or Johnson, you won't be sorry.
And make sure it runs before you buy it.
Where in Ga. are you?


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## GAHunter (Aug 18, 2019)

Ahh ok, I will see what I can find Johnson/Evinrude, I'm in North Ga. It irks me I cant track down my old motor, I'm hoping I'll have one of those Aha! Moments and remember what I did with it.. But so far, nothin.


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## 1960 yellowboat (Aug 18, 2019)

Mercury's aren't necessarily bad, they just can be expensive to repair.
If you could get the seller to allow you to have it checked out by a shop before you buy it, that would be best.
It will most likely need a new impeller and plugs.
For $100, offer him $75 and take a chance


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## 1960 yellowboat (Aug 18, 2019)

Here's the rub.
Your boat is coming along nicely and you REALLY want to get out in it. I was the same way. I bought a 20 horse Johnson that needed quite a bit of work. i thought I could handle it. I couldn't. I ended up taking a few parts off it and giving it away. The next one I bought was a 1955 Evinrude 15, but this time I made sure that it ran. Still, it cost me $300 to get it top running condition. That is why I stress getting a motor that is running. If the seller won't have it running for you for at least 15 minutes, then walk away. If the motor runs and pumps water, then make your offer. Newer motors "Pee" when the water pump is working. If any outboard is cranked dry, you destroy the rubber impeller in the water pump, and it will have to be replaced.The water actually lubricates it.
OK, you found a nice motor at a good price. It runs and pumps. At least you can use it and restore it as you go. If you are handy working on small engines then you can go on You Tube and learn how to work on it. I'm not. I know that parts are available for rudes and johnsons all the way back to the 50's. I'm not sure about Mercury. You can go to Marineengine.com to research just about any outboard.
Go to Duckworks.com and find the articles about rebuilding old motors by Max W. It will amaze you.


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## GAHunter (Aug 18, 2019)

Thanks Yellow! I will take a look at those links, and yeah I agree, I'd rather shell out the money 1 time, even if a bit more. 

I have a lot of work to do still, cant wait to get her in the water, I removed the back "skarews". I imagine whoever did that just did It to plug the holes.. This is what was below the sealant: 






I am ready for some wood now. I may call up lowes to see if they can order me a 4×8 sheet of marine grade. If I can get the time I'm going to try and run to lowes and get the 1x12s, get em cut, stained and at least a couple coats of poly. That may or may not happen today lol.

I went through and checked the rivets, circled the ones that need attention(dry erase marker). It will take me a sec but I'll put those up in the next post. Someone along the line decided to wrap wire around 2 of the front rivets and use then to pull the boat.. not sure if I can hammer those back down or not, its above the water line but such a terrible way to do it lol. 

More to come. 

Thank you!


Actually: let me try this:





























I dont really know what I can do with the rivet that got JB welded in... unless I drill it out and replace it with a larger head. I bought a riveter but couldnt find any sealed rivets. Amazon probably for those. The loose one (that sticks out a little) is one of the rivets on a bench/seat.

My initial plan was to braze the cracks. One of them for sure leaks, the other probably does, they just filled the channel on inside with jb weld but didnt prep it right (or it's really old) its falling out. I will probably remove all that then go from there with those.


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## GAHunter (Aug 18, 2019)

This was one thing I have been meaning to ask about.. its toward the front and doesnt seem to leak or anything that I noticed, should this be tapped back down? (From inside?) Or maybe push in some sealant or something prior to epoxy/paint?






It's the cap/ridge that runs down the middle of boat (for lack of actual terminology)


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## GAHunter (Aug 18, 2019)

Called Home Depot the next town over. The guy claims they have marine grade 3/4... but he said it was 30 something a sheet which makes me think it's not marine grade.. hopefully im wrong but everything I've seen so far seems twice that much for a sheet.


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## 1960 yellowboat (Aug 18, 2019)

Geeze!
Are you still friends with the guy that sold you the boat?

OK, I had much the same cracks and rivet problems on my 60 year old boat.
There is a product called West Marine G Flex epoxy. If there is no West Marine near you, you can get it off Amazon.It ain't cheap. Around $35 or so but it will seal everything you have.
It's a two part epoxy made specifically for aluminum boats. It's made for rivet and crack repair. You clean the affected area with a wire brush and acetone or rubbing alcohol and put the epoxy on the crack or rivet. Then you carefully heat it with a heatgun or propane torch and the heat and capillary action draws it down into the opening. This stuff works so good, you can use a regular pop rivet and then seal it with the G Flex.
On the big crack, tap it down as flush as you can, clean it and G Flex it.
As far as that goofy J B ed one, do the same thing.
The whole trick of using this stuff is that it is a HOT patch instead of a cold one like JB.
Don't worry about the marine grade plywood. It still has to be sealed. Get exterior grade ply made for ground contact and seal the devil out of it.Regardless of what you use, it will only last 5 years or so.


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## GAHunter (Aug 18, 2019)

Haha I know right. So the thing came from Alabama somewhere along the line, who knows beyond that then it was used as a boat at some camp place. So I imagine that's where it got beat up. (over used/abused Pond boat). The guy I bought it from told me he had about 5 cups of water to dump out after he used it. Probably from the 2 cracks and loose rivets (below the water line). I will clean her up and look into the product you recommend. I think I jumped the gun on the interior paint, luckily I only did 1.5 coats for now. Not sure what the heat will do to the paint, worse case I sand off that spot, epoxy/heat and paint back over it.


I will see what they have tomorrow, I hope to be able to remove the top corners so I can slid the transom in, there are a lot of rivets up there though. But if I can get then out and replace with bolts that will make replacing easier in the future. 

The closest west marine is about 1 hr 22 mins, but I work down that way so closer on days I go to work.
Going to check online in just a moment. Again, Thank you for the input/help!


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## GAHunter (Aug 18, 2019)

Nice, I found a video on how to apply g flex. I was just thinking, if I plan to epoxy the bottom/sides should I still go ahead and pre fix the rivets/cracks? Or would that be over doing it? Just wanted to be sure before I pulled the trigger on the g flex.


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## 1960 yellowboat (Aug 19, 2019)

yes, definately do them first.


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## GAHunter (Aug 20, 2019)

G Flex and Epoxy(Coat it, 8Lbs/80sqft) will be here Friday. Going to fix the obvious areas, dbl check a few more and try and coat as much as I can. Will either do all seams/rivets first and then start in the back and cover as much as I can get covered. Since the very back bottom is the most beat up part.

May pick up my transom wood on way home tonight. But dont want to leave it sitting until the weekend so may wait til I'm done sealing then go grab a sheet (and some varnish). Can I stain the transom to match the seats then seal em up with spar? Or would it be better to seal em up then paint them whatever color I want?


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## 1960 yellowboat (Aug 20, 2019)

By all means, stain first. I used walnut on mine but Home or Lowe's has a variety to choose from. I used Rustoleum Marine polyurethane spar varnish over that. They have 3 sheens. I used gloss.

I would G Flex the rivets and bad areas first, you only need a drop or two on each rivet. The heat will draw it in. On the cracks, I mixed a bit of the filler that comes with the kit. The first coat, heat drawn and then a second coat after the first cures to even it up.


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## GAHunter (Aug 20, 2019)

Awesome, I will do that as well! 

Should I fill the gap in the... Keel? It doesnt seem to leak that I could tell but thought I might put some 5200 or somethin in there if it's a good idea?

This: 






Saw this listed earlier on facebook market: 7HP Johnson, it supposedly runs.. I'd want to see it of course but they're asking 200:






She didnt mention what year or anything. She said shes pretty sure its 7HP anyways


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## 1960 yellowboat (Aug 20, 2019)

That's a good price but it doesn't look like a Johnson to me.
Get the model number to be sure. There should be a plate on the transom clamp.
I can't recall Johnson making a 7 hp.
Look on this site for a guy named "Pappy" and click on his name and you can e-mail him. He's a retired Johnson mechanic and knows them inside and out.
It's just that I can't recall seeing a 7 hp Johnson with a built in gas tank like that one has. I don't mean to rain on your parade, but the pic just doesn't seem right to me.
It actually looks like an air cooled motor.

As far as the keel goes, yes take care of it now instead of later


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## GAHunter (Aug 20, 2019)

Thanks Yellow! I thought the same thing when trying to find it. So I just did a search for 7HP motor and found A Sears Ted William's motor that looks identical to that one. I'm betting that's what it is.

Https://www.Youtube.com/watch?v=EleGw_yCXLk


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## 1960 yellowboat (Aug 20, 2019)

I'm glad you did that.
I did the same thing.
That motor was made by ESKA, and they have been out of business since 1987. Its's nearly impossible to find parts as Eska used a Tecumseh lawn mower engine on them. Yep, It shocked me too. They are air cooled and prone to breakdown.
It could well be that the seller just didn't know any better or she was trying to pull a fast one,
Even if it runs, it isn't worth more than $50 and it is pretty much a throw away motor.
Keep looking, you'll find one.


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## GAHunter (Aug 20, 2019)

I'm gonna have to stamp your name somewhere on this thing for all the help. I would have already messed up a few times lol. I do appreciate it very much. I'm excited, gonna seal up the keel tomorrow, I'll do the part that's raised up a little and whatever is left in the tube I'll just run a small bead down the rest or find somewhere to use it. 

As long as it's not raining this weekend I'll have the rest sealed up (Friday) and then epoxy rolled on saturday. Wood cut and first coats on the transom and benches. I thought about bringing boat inside but wife may have a cow lol. We have a large open room (garage was converted to a room at some point before we bought house) that would be perfect.. but then again..

Was looking at stainless hardware online and looks like it may be cheaper to buy online.. I need to figure out how to get the transom back in on the inside, gonna be looking at removing the corner caps, seems like they may be harder to get off than drilling out the corner braces and replacing with bolts. So may go that route. Gonna need to find me a drill bit for that, unless I can cut em with angle grinder.. We shall see.


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## 1960 yellowboat (Aug 21, 2019)

On my boat, I couldn't get one solid piece of wood under the flanges and across the whole back. i couldn't get the brace off and the sides of the boat were rounded so the wood had to be semi circular. Taking the corner caps off wouldn't have made any difference.
What to do,what to do.Reasoning that the wood was there to build up the transom so a motor would fit better, I decided to make the wood, two pieces. The first half would be installed with the help of a rubber mallet and the second piece was deliberately made oversize so I had to trim it down bit by bit until I got a super tight fit.I coated the backside with good quality caulk and when it was put together, you could barely find the seam. Kinda makes you think the manufacturer built the boat around the transom!
After reading some of these posts, it seems like many guys go way overboard on restoring old boats. Simple is better than complicated in my book.
Oh and about putting your boat in the house? She'll get over it, especially since you'll be sleeping out in the yard!


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## GAHunter (Aug 21, 2019)

I just ran sealant the full length of the keel (both sides) and down the seam on both sides of the side of hull, hopefully that, a layer or 2 of coat it/epoxy, and then paint (plus inside paint) will have everything nice and sealed. Probably over kill, but why not..

I was looking at the caps on mine. I may be able to get them off by removing 4 rivets on the side (that go into gunnel) and a couple from the rear that went through the top of the transom. I need to have a plan of attack as I dont want to epoxy over any rivets I'm going to be removing lol.

I'm going to let this sealant set up for a few hours and then I'll flip it over and get a closer look at the caps/transom area.

I may have jumped the gun a little. Was thinking and it may have been better to let the epoxy get down in the seams first.. hopefully it will form a protective shell over the sealant and seep in any holes or gaps in the sealant. If I was to do this again I might have even coated the inside seams and rivets prior to painting. Ah well


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## GAHunter (Aug 21, 2019)

Well, since I have half a tube left I went ahead and hit most the seams on the inside. I'm going to be painting a few more coats over it anyhow. I also noticed my seats are exactly 12" but they have a little piece that over hangs the front another inch or two. (Shin guards or something?). Debating on leaving em.. otherwise I have about 8 or 9 rivets per seat to get em off. I may be able to live with it as long as the wood sits flush. Planning on 4 bolts to hold them in place. Just small bolts washers and a nut under the seat. I'll mark and drill those prior to sealing up.


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## GAHunter (Aug 23, 2019)

I was able to drill out the rivets holding the corner cap, took a little work but they popped right off with a little prying.





I guess I'll replace those with bolts, or maybe save the money and use the rivets I have. They are not sealed rivets is the only catch.. but I think that high up will be ok? Just some sealant on em for good measure..

I should be able to bend the aluminum upwards to get the transome in, I just don't want it to crack. I'm going 3/4 wood on both sides and cap with aluminum angle (1.5"). 

One step closer! waiting on my gflex and I'll fill that crack, the other one isnt all the way through it seems. I'll fill it and maybe add some on the other side for good measure/reinforcement. If I can get all that done tomorrow will be epoxy & transom building day.


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## GAHunter (Aug 23, 2019)

Wow. That Gflex is like concrete lol.

Not very happy with shipping though. The box was almost falling apart, the coat it is beat all to heck..I'm surprised it didnt leak out. I'm gonna have a time getting the lid off, it looks like someone took it out and played soccer with it. The Gflex packages were opened and dumped into the box.. like bottom ripped off of their packaging.. not what I've experienced from Amazon as of yet.. Hopefully the coat it is fine, the hardener can looks fine... smh lol


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## GAHunter (Aug 24, 2019)

Well today was supposed to be epoxy day. But I held off for the rain, and wouldn't you know it.. no rain. 

It's too hot I feel as well. My work time out in the sun would be terrible. Can barely touch the boat it's so hot lol.

I went ahead and started on the seats. Of course the 1x12s were more 1/11s. So I'm not going to be able to cover up entirely. That's ok tho. 

Did a test fit first: 






Gotta seal em up and then bolt em down tomorrow sometime.

More to come..


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## GAHunter (Aug 24, 2019)

Ok I lied. At this dry rate i may be able to bolt em down next week lol


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## GAHunter (Aug 28, 2019)

Well.. perfect? Nope. Hard to work with? Yes. That was a big pain in the butt..slow runs got me.. I got all the rivets covered and put extra epoxy on the back. Then used the rest to cover as much as I could. Used all 8Lbs..






May have some layering to do with paint to get it even. It's not terrible bad but once it started to thicken I pretty much lost all control with my brushes/roller lol

Seats are in: 






Tomorrow in going to hopefully pick up my transom materials, paint, and some more stainless hardware..

What's my best option for bottom paint? Will exterior latex work there or will that not hold up as well? Would like something semi tough.. that will stick to epoxy.. 

As for the transom, I may get an epoxy resin and seal it for the long run..


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## 1960 yellowboat (Aug 28, 2019)

You can get bottom paint at any good marine supply store but I used Rustoleum over two coats of primer.
DO NOT use latex paint. It's water based and after exposure to water, like in a lake, will at some point, peel right off.
Stick with oil based paint. Let it cure in the sun for a few days between coats.


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## GAHunter (Aug 28, 2019)

Thanks Yellow, I will check out the Rustoleum section tomorrow. From reading the forums it sounds like it might be wise to wait a little while before painting over the epoxy, to be sure it is fully cured. The label says 10 hrs. I'm approaching that in a few hours. I hope to be working on a transom and plate tomorrow at the very least. Thank you!


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## GAHunter (Aug 30, 2019)

First coat black is on. I initially thought about doing the grey areas red.. but that may be too much red.. might come lower with the black and then do red at top, or may try n do the side rib red and then top 3 or 4" red... lol bad time to be changing my mind


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## 1960 yellowboat (Aug 31, 2019)

Hey, That looks good!
As an alternate idea, how about black gunnels and side rib with red sides?
Kind of like putting chrome trim on a car.
It's coming along very nicely.
You're going to have friends wanting you do do their boats


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## GAHunter (Aug 31, 2019)

I like that! I think I'll do that and I may paint the keel red down the middle. Then black reg#'s on top of the red. I wont have much time today unfortunately so hopefully tomorrow I'll get some time to tape off and paint some more (weather permitting).

Be safe with that storm heading your way! Hopefully itll keep shifting.


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## 1960 yellowboat (Aug 31, 2019)

me too
hopefully it won't hit GA


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## GAHunter (Sep 1, 2019)

Side coat #1, had to do some yard work this weekend so didnt get a chance to work on it much til a hour so ago.


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## GAHunter (Sep 1, 2019)

Meant to include gotta take some time taping the side rib.. its gonna be fun lol


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## GAHunter (Sep 3, 2019)

To HD I went to get my Marine Plywood.. The guy on the phone told me wrong, they don't carry it. BUT, they can order it for $90/sheet. #-o. I went with exterior grade, non pressure treated 4x4 sheet. Should give me just enough for what I need. I'm going to either epoxy or use the old timer mix to seal it up. 

If anyone might know, can I substitute paint thinner for mineral spirits in that mix? I have some thinner on hand is why I ask.. save me some $ lol. Is it ok to stain before hand just as I did with the seat planks?

Or should I get some epoxy and then rustoleum over it...


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## GAHunter (Sep 4, 2019)

Quick test fit. Seems just right. The previous board was an inch short. I measured and over cut the form I traced out from the old. It fits just about perfect.






I went a little lower than the previous transom as well. Just an inch or so. There is a 3" gap or so from bottom of transom to the floor of the boat. (Couldnt see from that angle).

My form for my plate was way way off. I ended up taking a home plate from the kids tee ball tee and used it to trace up something square.. I wish I would have made it a little longer tho. I think it will be sufficient though..







Now to figure out how I wanna seal these. Think I may grab some epoxy resin, do a couple light coats and then coat in varnish (for the uv protection). Extra attention to the ends of course.

Will hopefully have some more updates soon.


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## GAHunter (Sep 8, 2019)

First couple coats of epoxy on/dry. Going to do a couple coats of spar on the exposed surfaces and once dry I'll be ready to start putting her back together.


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## 1960 yellowboat (Sep 8, 2019)

I really like that black bottom and red top. Looks sharp!
Boards over the seats give the boat a true custom look.
If you want to. go to E Bay under Vintage Boat Decals .
Look for a seller named Dave Shabestari. He makes and sells reproductions of every boat manufactures name plates.
One in silver would really stand out.
Since you don't know who made your boat, just pick one you like.
After all, it's no longer a this or that brand, it's a your brand. Personally, I'd pick something cool from the past like Orlando Clipper


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## GAHunter (Sep 8, 2019)

Thanks Yellow! That's awesome you mentioned that! I was wishing I knew what it was so I could do something like that. For all I know it may be even older than 72.. I'm headed over to ebay now!. I'm thinking of getting some seats still too I think.. one or 2, amazon has these that would go good with the colors: 

https://www.amazon.com/Leader-Acces...&s=gateway&sprefix=black+and+red+boat&sr=8-4 


I ended up re cutting my transom plate. I regretting drilling the holes. I'm going to end up filling/sealing up the 4 small holes that are close together and making new, uniform/evenly spaced bolts.

I'll get the transom in, use some clamps to hold them right where I want em and then drill my holes. 4200 to seal up the through bolts and maybe do a bead around the inside of the boards. Gotta get some aluminum channel/angle iron for the cap and then more coats of paint.. almost on the down hill side.


Oh I also added a tow hook a few mins ago. Have to seal around that once I get it set where I want it. I'll use some of the 4200 for that as well.


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## GAHunter (Sep 9, 2019)

I dont know for sure... but I've found a couple old Montgomery Ward Sea Kings that look really similar. One was a 1949.. still looking lol


Update: actually after looking again.. dont think its similar lol


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## GAHunter (Sep 9, 2019)

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=44272  looks like mine on the outside. Cant really tell from the pictures.. has the same 4 bolts in the back as well lol. unfortunately it's another unknown. The hunt continues!


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## GAHunter (Sep 9, 2019)

Potential: Dehli V :

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=35847 

Looks similar!


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## GAHunter (Sep 9, 2019)

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=28060 

OK. That's gotta be it. Maybe not exact year.. my seat braces are a bit wider. But looks identical to me, and has same 4 holes.

Looked at almost every model post or 13/14ft post for almost 50 pages.

I think I have a problem lol


Even closer is a Delcraft. Google image shows some that are even painted same inside color lol. The rear supports look the same. That's where the handles were on the backside(where I have 3 holes on each side). Nice . Digging deeper if I can, hopefully find a year

Terry, Delhi, Delcraft, Starcraft... getting tough to follow lol


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## GAHunter (Sep 11, 2019)

2 coats epoxy, 4 coats spar urethane. Hopefully they will have a long happy life.

Not lined up perfect, just wanted to move them outside for the time being lol.

I will be drilling holes soon, but most likely wont be this week/weekend. Bout to head down toward the gulf for a little wife and me mini vacation. Once I get back, I'll be bolting her up, putting the corner caps back on and more painting. May or may not put some spar in the holes after I drill them.. or potentially over drill them and fill with epoxy/redrill... I know that's the best way but we will see.

Gunnels will be black eventually. Thing is getting heavier and heavier to flip over . Progress I suppose.

Once finished I think I'll do a post about what I would have done different.. rounding the seat edges etc etc..

Would it be wise to put a bead of 4200 around the back side of my transom boards? A gasket of sorts?


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## 1960 yellowboat (Sep 11, 2019)

anything you can do to keep moisture off the wood is a good idea.
That and stainless bolts and nylon washers is the way to go.
Now e mail Jim and get a couple of Tin Boats decals and you're good to go.
You did a better job than the guys that built the thing.


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## GAHunter (Sep 17, 2019)

Ordered some stainless hardware (should be here tomorrow). Ordered my Delcraft stickers from ebay seller you recommended (ty for that). 

In the mean time, back looking for a motor. Not a whole lot just yet but I did see this:

 https://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/bpo/d/cleveland-evinrude-horsepower-boat-motor/6980713647.html but its evidently not running, so not sure if worth the gamble?


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## 1960 yellowboat (Sep 18, 2019)

GAHunter said:


> Ordered some stainless hardware (should be here tomorrow). Ordered my Delcraft stickers from ebay seller you recommended (ty for that).
> 
> In the mean time, back looking for a motor. Not a whole lot just yet but I did see this:
> 
> https://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/bpo/d/cleveland-evinrude-horsepower-boat-motor/6980713647.html but its evidently not running, so not sure if worth the gamble?


I would probably offer $150 and then take it to a shop for a tune up.
If no spark, these are the retails costs of what you may need.
Coils,,,,,,,,,,,,,$18 X 2
Condensors,,,,,$5 X 2
Points,,,,,,,,,,,$10
All from Marineengine.com


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## GAHunter (Sep 18, 2019)

Someone beat me to it. Well.. he said they were on their way to look at it. So likely gone. The hunt continues!


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## 1960 yellowboat (Sep 18, 2019)

GAHunter said:


> Someone beat me to it. Well.. he said they were on their way to look at it. So likely gone. The hunt continues!



Is Chattanooga too far away? I found two on CL that bear looking at. A 5 horse sea king, {johnson made them] in really nice shape for $300 in Rossville and an older 5.5 Evinrude for $100 in chat area.
Look on the Chattanooga C L.
Disn't see much on the Atlanta site but not sure where you are.


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## GAHunter (Sep 18, 2019)

I didnt even think about Chattanooga, it's not too far. I have a buddy that lives in rossville. I will look!

Rookie mistake... #-o I drilled my transom holes level.. not accounting for the slight angle of the back.. sooo my washers sit flush but thr nuts dont.

I tested one by running my drill bit back into the hole and put just a touch of downward pressure on the drill. That allowed the washer and nut to sit flush on both sides. I think it will be ok. I have 2 more holes to drill once I get my angle iron/cap.. possibly more but I think I got enough. And I need to find some 3/16 bolts for the 3 bolts that go through into the support brackets on each side.. unless I can get away with using 5/16 on those aswell.. just a little larger hole. 






4200 is messy lol.. it didnt help the bottom of the tube blew out on me when I was putting a bead behind the outside board... I'll be painting a few more coats of rustoleum over it anyway..

I'm thinking 2 more bolts at the top of the motor plate, one on each side, through my aluminum cap.


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## GAHunter (Sep 18, 2019)

Seals seemed to turn out good. Hopefully lol. Did a little in the hole as best I could and then around the washer and under the bolt head. 

Tomorrow I'll try and find some 3/16 hardware for the remaining 6 side holes.. and a cap so I can drill my last holes and wrap that up... then I'll be painting again.


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## GAHunter (Sep 18, 2019)

Lolol forgot the majority of the holes were not as deep as the transom bolts.. ah well. I may cut em down.. or leave them.. thought about making a hatch/storage box in the back... if I do i'll leave em as they are.

Here is before I started sealing up.


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## 1960 yellowboat (Sep 18, 2019)

I had the same thing happen to me with bolts too long. What I did was to make one on each side 5 inches long and mount two extra props for the outboard on them and cut the rest down with a cut off tool from Harbor Freight that I got on sale for $10. When you get a motor, make sure you have enough room for the gas tank.
I got this 3 gal steel tank for free and rebuilt it


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## 1960 yellowboat (Sep 18, 2019)

You can find steel tanks for cheap and fix them up too. Here is a 6 gallon one that cost me $5 for the tank, a $10 set of decals and a $18 hose assembly.


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## GAHunter (Sep 18, 2019)

Those look awesome, I will have to try and find one of those as well. They look brand new!


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## GAHunter (Sep 18, 2019)

15/20 mins away.. 

Saw the black and blue Chattanooga Evinrude as well ($100 one)


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## GAHunter (Sep 19, 2019)

Evidently that's not the right sea king lol, google had me reading about people not caring to much for these Chrysler motors. Gonna post a couple others in just a bit.


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## GAHunter (Sep 19, 2019)

5hp Johnson seahorse runs fine needs a new pinion gear. Part only costs 30 dollars I just don't need the motor. Asking $250 OBO







1954 johnson 10hp. Runs I have the original 6 gallon gas tank to go with it. New propeller


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## 1960 yellowboat (Sep 20, 2019)

I like both of them but kinda lean toward the 10 horse. Although you probably could go on you tube and see how to replace that gear.
The sea king is a chrystler? oh oh , i goofed on that one. nice shape tho.


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## GAHunter (Sep 20, 2019)

I like the johnson as well. I think there may be some other sea king series Johnson's or evinrudes, I just happend to see the Montgomery Ward and looked that up. There is a really good shape 6 HP Johnson but asking 650... does that sound about right? Actually its 750.. ehh

 https://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/bpo/d/gainesville-johnson-6-hp/6969337377.html

Just finished my side bolts. I could not find 3/16 bolts anywhere. So I went with 1/4 instead. :






Gotta get my aluminum cap today or tomorrow, if lowes has it. Plan to cut it to fit the top of my transom board and then drill through it and the transom for my final couple bolts. May get some 1" also to cap the spaces between the corner covers.

Then I'm set to paint a couple more coats of rustoleum, decal, etc!

I may paint over the bolt heads that arent on wood and may spar over the ones that are on wood, can only help seal it more I suppose.

Thanks Yellow!


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## 1960 yellowboat (Sep 20, 2019)

$750 for an older Johnson seems a bit pricey to me. But if it's in excellent water ready shape it may be the way to go. I'd have to hear it run before I'd make an offer. Good motors are hard to find. If you bought one that needed a general tune up, you could easily spend $200 just for that. If it runs well at idle and flat out and pees good you may be money ahead in the long run. After all, a new one is probably close to $2000. My 55 took around $300 to get it back to top running condition.


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## 1960 yellowboat (Sep 20, 2019)

WOW!
I just looked at the C L listing. That's a NICE Johnson


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## GAHunter (Sep 21, 2019)

Caps are on. Bolted through and then a 1" cap riveted down cover the remaining parts. It over laps the 1.5" cap just a little but I think that's ok.


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## 1960 yellowboat (Sep 21, 2019)

Do you have a will?
That boat's gonna last another 100 years!


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## GAHunter (Sep 21, 2019)

:lol: 

If I can get 3-5 out of it I'll consider it worth it. The Wife told me yesterday "Why wouldn't you spend more money to get a boat that's already in good shape" lol. I haven't really done all that much really, but it looks a lot better than it did. I may end up selling the Minkota 55Lb I got with it to go toward the outboard. Gotta go get a tag for the trailer still and figure out what in the heck is going on with my tow wiring. 

Cant promise I wont take it out and putt around a cove with the trolling motor, just to see how sealed up she is, and try to catch a fish or two.


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## 1960 yellowboat (Sep 22, 2019)

Motor Hunting
There's a website called "Offer Up" you join for free and then browse the listings. Down here under Boats and Marine, there are quite a few outboards for sale. You might try it in Atlanta


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## GAHunter (Sep 23, 2019)

Another excellent idea! I used offerup.. or maybe letgo.. which I think may be similar in the past. I will take a look there as well. 

I found a 4 HP Johnson that looks almost same as that CL johnson for 220, add says it ran last year and they haven't tried starting it since(been in storage). Mentioned it may need carb cleaning before it will start.. I have a hard time trusting people lol


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## GAHunter (Sep 23, 2019)

https://nwga.craigslist.org/bpo/d/five-points-perfect-running-99-johnson/6984548507.html 

Not a bad looking 9.9


Here is the 220 one:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2136273420008576/


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## 1960 yellowboat (Sep 23, 2019)

they both look good
the 4 may be the smallest you want to go and you're probably have to put a little work into it.
If the seller can start it up even for a few seconds, DO NOT run the motor out of water. You will destroy the impeller in the water pump.
The 9.9 gets my vote since it comes with a tank [ $60 new] depending of course on your budget
OOPS I misread it, the 4 comes with a tank. either way never run a motor dry.
I checked Marineengine.com and the 4 seems to be a 95 or96 twin cylinder good lil kicker.
A carb rebuilt kit is around $15 so that ain't bad.
If it's going to be mostly just you then the 4 should do nicely.


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## GAHunter (May 15, 2020)

I'm Baaaack! Ended up having to put things on hold. We moved and finally got settled in.

The new house has a garage so that's a plus for these projects. Also have a metal carport(where shes been under since we got here).

Eyeing a 15 HP Evinrude 77 Model for $475 asking price. Looks to be in good condition and supposedly runs great.

Gonna start back up on this project soon! 

Hope all is well everyone!


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