# Trailer light mounting



## lgpjr49 (Oct 1, 2014)

This may just be my problem but it seems every time I put my trailer in the water I blow a light on my trailer and have to replace it. Does anyone mount there lights on there guidepost or other places so they don't get submerged? Oh and my trailer goes in mostly freshwater and very rarely salt water. Anyone have any hints on where to mount them or ways to get longer life out of my lights.


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## ggoldy (Oct 1, 2014)

Do you unplug before you back in?


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## lgpjr49 (Oct 1, 2014)

At first no but then after destroying my first set of lights I started unplugging them when I put a new set on, but I still have the problem with them unplugged. Needless to say I'm pretty lost.


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## bobberboy (Oct 2, 2014)

Some lights are designed to be submerged and some not. I always drive with my lights on so when I get to the lake the bulbs are hot. If water gets to them they crack. You can raise them on the guideposts but make sure if you have to splice the wire you make that splice waterproof. 
I've never looked carefully at LEDs but I think the way they're made they may not be subject to the kinds of problems that traditional bulbs are.


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## BigTerp (Oct 2, 2014)

I had the same issues and even kept blowing fuses in my truck. I have my boat out year round. Fishing spring/summer and duck hunting fall/winter. Hot incandescent bulbs + really cold water usually equals a blown bulb. Forgetting to unplug usually led to a blown fuse. After replacing several bulbs, fuses and light housings due to corrosion I finally bit the bullet and got a complete set of LEDs (tail and marker lights). I also completely rewired my trailer and ran my ground wire from the harness back to both taillights. Did this about 3 months ago and haven't had any problems since. I no longer unplug before backing down the ramp and the LEDs are MUCH brighter, which makes me feel better when running to the ramp in the dark. Wish I would have made the LED conversion a long time ago!!


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## TNtroller (Oct 3, 2014)

Try unplugging the trailer lights when you 1st pull into the ramp lot to give them time to cool off from the drive there before backing into the water. Are the new ones the submersible type or not? I have the submersible type on my tracker rig, and do get submersed, and have not had to change the bulbs out yet. there should be a gasket around the red lens to seal up against water getting in. If they are not the submersible type, then installing some uprights may be the solution for you.


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## great white (Oct 3, 2014)

Mine:


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## Attwanl (Nov 6, 2014)

I moved mine up on the guide post because mine were doing the same thing. I have to move the license plate though, it flops around and has raked the plastic mount under the light. It gets to much wind up high.
Not a very good picture, but they stay high and dry


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Nov 6, 2014)

Attwanl said:


> I moved mine up on the guide post because mine were doing the same thing. I have to move the license plate though, it flops around and has raked the plastic mount under the light. It gets to much wind up high.
> Not a very good picture, but they stay high and dry


I've replaced the plastic plate mount with a metal one and on some trailers I mount the plate to a piece of rubber belting and bolt the belting to the plate mount. This allows the plate to move in the wind or if I back into something the plate can move.


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## CMOS (Nov 12, 2014)

BigTerp said:


> I had the same issues and even kept blowing fuses in my truck. I have my boat out year round. Fishing spring/summer and duck hunting fall/winter. Hot incandescent bulbs + really cold water usually equals a blown bulb. Forgetting to unplug usually led to a blown fuse. After replacing several bulbs, fuses and light housings due to corrosion I finally bit the bullet and got a complete set of LEDs (tail and marker lights). I also completely rewired my trailer and ran my ground wire from the harness back to both taillights. Did this about 3 months ago and haven't had any problems since. I no longer unplug before backing down the ramp and the LEDs are MUCH brighter, which makes me feel better when running to the ramp in the dark. Wish I would have made the LED conversion a long time ago!!




IMO, this is the way to go. Most of the LED assemblies (the small circuit board inside the light housing) are conformal coated with a clear resin-like material so that it's completely waterproof. Worth every penny to spend a little more on the LED lights.

CMOS


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## Captain Ahab (Nov 12, 2014)

Get LED lights and no more problems


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## WPS (Nov 16, 2014)

Make sure you have submersible lights and you won't have any problems... I have submersible lights on my pontoon trailer and I've never unplugged before backing my trailer in the water... I'll have the same on my Lund boat trailer.

LED's is the best way to go!..IMO

Here's a "pair" of LED tail lights from Amazon for a great price!.. $27.89 & free shipping.

On these you need the box to put them in.

https://www.amazon.com/Diode-grommet-Trailer-Sealed-Shipping/dp/B00D8FR34K/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1416097378&sr=8-17&keywords=boat+trailer+led+lights

On these you don't need a box, just need a flat surface to bolt them on... $24.99 & free shipping.

https://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Light-Surface-Mount-Optronics/dp/B00HB8SVO6/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1416097084&sr=8-15&keywords=boat+trailer+led+lights

I've bought a lot of these LED clearance lights and they're submersible too... Great price at $5.49 & free shipping

https://www.amazon.com/Light-Surface-Clearance-Marker-Trailer/dp/B00CB167WQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1414883383&sr=1-4

And if you need a rear submersible light bar for $10.69... I have that on order for my Lund boat trailer... Also ordered the other LED's for my Lund boat trailer.

https://www.amazon.com/Optronics-Waterproof-LED-Red-Light/dp/B003HFPZZ0/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1415575716&sr=8-16&keywords=boat+trailer+led+lights

That should take care of you! :mrgreen:


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## CapdYa (Feb 26, 2015)

^ Great post. Tagged for when I need new lights!


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## PSG-1 (Feb 26, 2015)

I just put mine up on the guide posts and don't worry about it anymore.




Not only does it keep the lights out of the water, but it puts them higher so they are more visible.


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## CapdYa (Feb 27, 2015)

PSG-1 said:


> I just put mine up on the guide posts and don't worry about it anymore. Not only does it keep the lights out of the water, but it puts them higher so they are more visible.



I'd like to do this as well, but I would need to splice and extend my current wiring setup. Any tips on doing this and keeping it water proof? I don't want to run new wiring throughout the trailer.


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## Captain Ahab (Feb 27, 2015)

CapdYa said:


> PSG-1 said:
> 
> 
> > I just put mine up on the guide posts and don't worry about it anymore. Not only does it keep the lights out of the water, but it puts them higher so they are more visible.
> ...




Solder wires with heat shrink tubing - and the add silicone then wrap with electrical tape (after silicone layer dries.

Nothing is 100% water proof but this will last a long long time


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## SumDumGuy (Feb 27, 2015)

CapdYa said:


> PSG-1 said:
> 
> 
> > I just put mine up on the guide posts and don't worry about it anymore. Not only does it keep the lights out of the water, but it puts them higher so they are more visible.
> ...



I'm pretty cheap so I would either pig tail the connection or use butt connectors. Then coat with silicon or liquid tape.


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## huntinfool (Feb 27, 2015)

I wire up customers trailers with lights on the guide poles all the time. But get a good submersible light with a good ground and you shouldn't have any problems.
Also I have LED lights. That makes a big difference.


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## slick (Feb 28, 2015)

Silicone corrodes copper. It only took me until the third time before I read the label.


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## PSG-1 (Feb 28, 2015)

CapdYa said:


> PSG-1 said:
> 
> 
> > I just put mine up on the guide posts and don't worry about it anymore. Not only does it keep the lights out of the water, but it puts them higher so they are more visible.
> ...




Yes, most wiring harnesses are just a few feet short of being able to reach the light when mounted on the guide. So, you'll need to splice. The BEST method is to use self-adhesive lined heat shrink butt connectors, and also wrap those connections with 3M splicing tape.


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## Captain Ahab (Mar 1, 2015)

PSG-1 said:


> CapdYa said:
> 
> 
> > PSG-1 said:
> ...




I agree - completely forgot about mentioning the self-adhesive lined heat shrink butt connectors


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## Johnny (Mar 1, 2015)

Anyone that is still running the filament bulbs (me too) should put a good coating
of " Dielectric Grease " inside the bulb socket as well as on the bulb brass itself.
Helps prevent the corrosion factor which leads to a bad connection.
I have just started squirting the dielectric grease into the butt connectors 
and terminal lugs prior to inserting the wires and crimping them. Just an extra layer of protection.
Eventually, I will join the 21st Century and get the LED lights.
My current lights are high up on the 2" PVC guide posts.


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## PSG-1 (Mar 1, 2015)

Captain Ahab said:


> CapdYa said:
> 
> 
> > PSG-1 said:
> ...



Soldering is an invitation to corrosion. ABYC does not suggest soldering, but instead, using heat shrink butt connectors.


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## nowgrn4 (Mar 29, 2015)

I use an inexpensive 50' orange 3/14 extension cord and cut it in half. On my Pro-Line bay rig I run each lights circuit uninterrupted along each frame rail from the tow vehicles pig tail terminating up through the PVC guide on post to each light. On my fresh water Weld-Craft rig I do the same but terminate at the lights mounted on top of the guide on bunks. All connections are soldered then coated with RTV. Then I slide the shrink tubing over the mess and heat until I get a blob of RTV out of each end.

Absolutely bulletproof. No connections or lights are ever submerged. Do it right once and forgetaboutit.


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