# Transom Help



## Captmike (Mar 7, 2016)

I know, I Know, just search for it everyone says.....I did, and I got hundreds of results. I'm just looking for a straight forward transom replacement tutorial. 

how to remove the old transom
choosing replacement wood
how to seal it
what type of bolts to use.

this is what I'm starting with. The old transom is already removed. thanks in advance.


----------



## DaleH (Mar 8, 2016)

Here's one I did years ago ... 

https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465

... but what I did NOT detail in the pictures included is that whenever you use a SS bolt on aluminum hulls, you MUST totally isolate the SS from the aluminum. I put thick nylon washers under the heads and Ss washers on each end of the bolt and covered the bolt body with adhesive-lined heatshrink. 

SS against aluminum will cause galvanic corrosion, where the aluminum will pit and be 'sacrificed' due to the dis-similar metals.


----------



## wlfman40 (Mar 8, 2016)

Captmike:Good call, I see a lot of threads and a lot of pics which are great but never with the specifics I seem to be hunting for.


----------



## wlfman40 (Mar 8, 2016)

Well thanks for the tip about SS fasteners. I have been through so many threads and also see "only use SS" but not sure I remember seeing specifically to add washers to isolate. Question, if the tin is painted, does it still matter?


----------



## DaleH (Mar 8, 2016)

wlfman40 said:


> Question, if the tin is painted, does it still matter?


To me it would, IF used in saltwater - see picture .... 

FYI, many years ago there were black painted Penn spinning reels, which had aluminum housings, where the side plates were held on by SS screws. After a few seasons use in salt waters and the SW environment, the paint around the screws would start to bubble and blister. If a blister popped, one would see a white corrosion built up on the aluminum. 

I didn't know what it was then - as I was just a kid - but I have learned since that this was actually proof of galvanic corrosion caused by the dissimilar metals, where the SS is the more noble metal. And due to SW being an ideal electrolyte, an electric charge forms between the SS and the aluminum - think like a weak battery - and the ions from the aluminum erode or flow in favor of the SS, to the SS. In time, I have seen holes in aluminum boats that looked like someone unloaded a few rounds of #4 to #9 birdshot against the hull.

* See attached picture* for an example of a Starcraft hull where the factory put SS fasteners on painted aluminum, without any insulating material between them ...


----------



## Captmike (Mar 8, 2016)

wlfman40 said:


> Captmike:Good call, I see a lot of threads and a lot of pics which are great but never with the specifics I seem to be hunting for.



Glad I'm not the only person that was having trouble filtering through all the posts about transoms. There needs to be a section in the forum that specifically covers certain things in depth, example: how to rebuild a transom, cleaning and painting a hull, polishing aluminum or how about the basics of boat wiring. Instead I have to filter through hundreds of thread to piece together all of the information I need. Don't get me wrong, I love reading all the threads but usually I get off topic and end up looking at something completely opposite of what I was searching for. Anyway, I appreciate you responding to my post.


----------



## Captmike (Mar 8, 2016)

DaleH said:


> Here's one I did years ago ...
> 
> https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
> 
> ...



Thanks for the link, Ill be checking it out now. Thanks for the tip on using nylon washers, you might have saved my boat build!!


----------



## Captmike (Mar 8, 2016)

DaleH said:


> Here's one I did years ago ...
> 
> https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=36465
> 
> ...



OK, I have only looked at the first part of the thread and its exactly what I'm looking for.....Thanks again.


----------



## uncndl1 (Mar 9, 2016)

Thanks for the nylon washer advice. I'm in the middle of my transom replacement and appreciate that. I figure people use stainless hardware as it is rust resistant. Are aluminum bolts too soft to hold the wood transom back on?
I'll be drilling the new holes into my wood this weekend or next. I've read many threads that say to oversize the drilled holes, and then re-fill them with epoxy. Then drill them out the proper size. This must seal the surround wood with epoxy. Other's seal their holes with a mixture of linseed oil, spar varnish, and mineral spirits. Keep us posted of your progress and pictures, please.


----------



## surfman (Mar 9, 2016)

Never ever use steel fasteners, plated, hot dipped, or otherwise, they will attack the aluminum even if you use a nylon washer it will be a problem. Only use SS. I have used it and use my boat almost exclusively in salt water. I have not used any nylon washers but did consider it, I am not saying don't use them it certainly can't hurt but, so far after several years of use I have had no issues but, the fasteners are all well above the waterline and get rinsed off easily. very little exposure to salt water. If I was to use a fastener below the waterline I would go with aluminum rivets or welding.


----------



## Captmike (Mar 9, 2016)

Thanks for the Input. I also have a question about the wood that I should use. I have read a lot about 3/4" marine ply that is laminated together but I have a connection with a small lumber mill that could mill me 1 piece of hard wood, oak or something similar. then I could seal it like normal. Has anyone seen or tried that method yet? thanks


----------



## Johnny (Mar 9, 2016)

my one and only experience with oak used outside in the elements
was not good. I made my boat seats out of red oak and varnished them.
They looked awesome - for a year -
then, with the expansion and contraction of the wood, bacteria got
into the woodgrain - - - so I bleached it good, got rid of the mold.
air dried for a few days, then, sanded, primed with oil primer and painted
with Valspar 30 year gloss white house paint . . . 
and again, the same results as the varnish. Oak will be a continuing
maintenance problem if left out in the weather 24/7.
Inside a garage will last much longer.
as most every one agrees on - stay clear of pressure treated wood on aluminum.

many many MANY good threads on transom replacement wood on this site.
read and pick something that you can do with your wood source and skill level.


----------



## uncndl1 (Mar 9, 2016)

Here is the best link I have found that answers several questions, if you read through there are links to also click in the guy who answers the questions in his signature: 
https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-repair-and-restoration/boat-restoration-building-and-hull-repair/503104-replacing-a-transom-on-an-aluminum-boat
I'm sure many of the old boats used a solid piece of wood. I do know that one type of oak is better than the other, but can not remember if it's white or red that is better to use. Plywood has advantages in that the multiple layers make it much stronger, also from my reading. 
Here's a video I watched before I cut out and glued my Transom Boards together:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P3bFc2UjNao 
You do not need to fiberglass your transom as in the video, but at least this gives you an idea how to pattern, cut, and glue your boards together if you go the plywood route. I would search on youtube and watch as many videos as you can to see how many ways people glue and clamp the boards together. You can also search Google images and see many different transom projects, with boards held together with clamps, screws, bolts, etc.


----------



## surfman (Mar 11, 2016)

Plywood is actually better than solid wood because it will not split, crack or warp. Plus it is made of pine which is more naturally rot resistant than oak, especially red oak. You don’t need to use expensive marine grade plywood either, just use a good quality exterior grad say BC. C grade will have knots and sometimes knot holes just laminate the two C sides together. Be sure to seal it good with many coats of varnish or better yet epoxy, then a coat of varnish or paint.


----------



## screamensemen (Mar 11, 2016)

My old boat I re-did it so there wouldn't be any wood to rot. Look at the duracraft link in profile to see the final product.


----------



## Captmike (Mar 11, 2016)

uncndl1 said:


> Here is the best link I have found that answers several questions, if you read through there are links to also click in the guy who answers the questions in his signature:
> https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-repair-and-restoration/boat-restoration-building-and-hull-repair/503104-replacing-a-transom-on-an-aluminum-boat
> I'm sure many of the old boats used a solid piece of wood. I do know that one type of oak is better than the other, but can not remember if it's white or red that is better to use. Plywood has advantages in that the multiple layers make it much stronger, also from my reading.
> Here's a video I watched before I cut out and glued my Transom Boards together:
> ...


perfect! great links....I really appreciate it


----------



## Captmike (Mar 11, 2016)

surfman said:


> Plywood is actually better than solid wood because it will not split, crack or warp. Plus it is made of pine which is more naturally rot resistant than oak, especially red oak. You don’t need to use expensive marine grade plywood either, just use a good quality exterior grad say BC. C grade will have knots and sometimes knot holes just laminate the two C sides together. Be sure to seal it good with many coats of varnish or better yet epoxy, then a coat of varnish or paint.



After reading all the posts I have decided to go with the plywood route. thanks for your insight. I'm hoping to get started on it this week. Ill post some pics soon.


----------

