# LED Trailer Lights and Bunk Question.



## FishinChips87 (Oct 6, 2012)

I'm starting off my tin boat project with the trailer first. I need to know which LED trailer lights would be the best to go with. I'd like to mount them on PVC guide ons long enough to stick up out of the water. I found a couple I like from the Low Cost Boating Store but I'm not sure which ones to go with. I'd hate to buy the wrong ones. 
https://www.lowcostboatingstore.com/Tail-Lights--LED_c_512.html

I'm pretty sure I'll buy The Ultimate Bunk Boards. My trailer is currently set up with the bunk boards going vertically. Is this something I should try to avoid or doesn't it really matter? I have a 14' Larson and plan on modding it simularly to Crappie_slayer's project https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=10228&start=60 

I'll be priming and painting the trailer this week and would like to order tail lights and the bunks as soon as possible. I'm pretty hard up on cash and would like to stay cheap but efficient. I'm willing to spend a little more where I need to. This is my first boat and I don't know anything about trailers or boats. I live in a small town so I really don't have anyone else to ask. You guys have all been a big help. 

Thanks,
FishinChips87


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## spotco2 (Oct 6, 2012)

Lights are quiet simple items. 

I like submersible lights even if they are going to be mounted high enough to stay out of the water. It keeps them dry inside if it rains.

Make sure that you have lights that are wired for the following options, tail, turn and stop. 

Back up options come in handy as well as license plate illumination depending on where your tag is located. A lot of places require that you have tag lights on your trailer.

Reflectors built in are also a good option to consider depending on if you have any other reflectors on your trailer.

Make sure you use butt connectors that are the proper size when splicing the wire and be sure to either use heat shrink tubing over the butt connectors or buy the ones that already have heat shrink on them. This will keep moisture out of the connection and keep the chances of corrosion down at the splice point.

Bunks are a little more thought. Do you need them standing on edge or laying down to get the boat lower on the trailer? Composites are slick and very easy to load and unload on. Carpeted bunks hold the boat in place better. A lot depends on where you load and unload, your procedures (1 person or 2 people available when launching) and how steep and deep your local ramps are.

If launching and loading alone on very steep or deep ramps, I like carpeted because it give you a lot more control over the boat. Nothing worse than getting ready at he prep area, unstrapping your boat and having it slide off the trailer half way down the ramp because of slick bunks. Also if loading alone, it's hard to keep the boat on the trailer once you have it in position as you run from the back to the front to hook up the winch.

If you always have a helper, none of these things would be an issue.


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## FishinChips87 (Oct 6, 2012)

I guess I'm not sure how close I should have my boat to the trailer. It has 4 rollers that I'd like to keep. How high should the rollers be off of the trailer?

For trailer lights I was thinking: 

https://www.lowcostboatingstore.com/OPTRONICS-STL12RS-FLEET-COUNT-LED-6-OVAL-LT_p_17964.html

or

https://www.lowcostboatingstore.com/Seachoice-Oval-Led-Trailer-Light-51961_p_17.html

I'll try to take a pic of the boat and trailer to get an idea of what I should do for bunks.


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## FishinChips87 (Oct 6, 2012)

Here's my trailer. https://i.imgur.com/jHy1w.jpg

Here's my boat on the trailer. https://imgur.com/qFDzy

I already have a bar for guide ons so I figure I might as well use them. It looks like the rollers could be moved down a little bit. 

Pics of the bunks.
https://i.imgur.com/xCIeA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/kg48w.jpg


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## spotco2 (Oct 6, 2012)

Either of those lights would work well.

Bunks look like they are set up well on your trailer with the rollers.

If you are happy with your bunk setup, then keep it the way it is. If you are having to back to far into the water to launch laying your bunks on their side and lowering the rollers could help with that by lowering the boat on the trailer.

You need to make sure that your new bunks are longer than what you have. They need to come out an inch or so past the bottom of the transom of the boat.


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## FishinChips87 (Oct 6, 2012)

I haven't even been able to put my boat in the water since I bought it. The boat is from the 70's and I'm assuming the trailer is too. The trailer wasn't in good enough shape for me to trust it on the road. After I bought it and got home I noticed one of the winch posts U-bolts was broken and the winch itself didn't lock in place. The owner had welded on some metal guide ons with a place to attach the tail lights. His little concoction rubbed the boat pretty bad on one side and may have made a weak spot. I didn't feel comfortable using the trailer in the condition it was in so I decided to fix it up. I've removed everything and plan on redoing it the right way. I plan on making the bunks as long as they can go forward and an inch past the transom like you said. I don't think I can move the boat forward very much on the trailer without it adding too much tongue weight. 

If I make the bunks an inch past the transom should I add extra supports on the rear end of the bunks?


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## spotco2 (Oct 7, 2012)

How long will the span be from the last bracket to the end of the extended bunk?


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## FishinChips87 (Oct 7, 2012)

Close to 2'6"


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## spotco2 (Oct 7, 2012)

I would contact Ultimate Bunk Boards and ask their advice if they think it will hold up.

I don't see why not but also dont know what motor youre going to hang off the back yet.


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## FishinChips87 (Oct 7, 2012)

I'll be mounting a 25hp tiller motor off the back. I'll buy the bunk boards long enough to trim them if I need to. I'll add an extra support for both bunks. I'll keep the rollers for hull support because the trailer wont be long enough for me to feel comfortable using bunks only. Tomorrow I'll order the lights, bunks, and hardware. 

Which winch should I buy?

Would either of these work? Which one would be better?
https://www.amazon.com/Seasense-Brake-Winch-800-Pound-Ratchet/dp/B004XAJ8RY/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1343051864&sr=1-2&keywords=seasense+brake+winch
or
https://www.amazon.com/Seasense-Trailer-Winch-1400-Pound-Strap/dp/B003XY7GZ2/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top


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## JMichael (Oct 7, 2012)

Pretty much the same price so take the one that's rated for 1400lb vs the 800lb. Never hurts to have the capability for extra load and the 1400 comes with a hook that the 800 doesn't appear to have.


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## FishinChips87 (Oct 7, 2012)

JMichael said:


> Pretty much the same price so take the one that's rated for 1400lb vs the 800lb. Never hurts to have the capability for extra load and the 1400 comes with a hook that the 800 doesn't appear to have.



Yeah that's what I was thinking but I figured I'd ask before I ordered anything. I just got don't checking the bearing on the trailer, everything seems to be good. Now I just have to remove all the rust and paint and it'll be ready to be painted within the next couple of days. I'm waiting for the nicer days coming this week before I prime it. Can't wait to get this thing on the water.


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## turbotodd (Nov 6, 2012)

I hate those slick bunk things. Carpeted is the only way to go. The slick ones just let the boat slide right off. It takes two people to launch/load with those. It's a one-man deal with carpeted bunks, especially if they're long enough. Mine are too long actually and it's tough to get the boat off by myself unless I back WAY down. Figured it out recently, have to pick up the bow by hand and push it back before I jump in. Easier that way than fighting with trying to use the motor to back it off.

LED's are awesome and I think they ought to be standard on all trailers. Main reason is because they usually don't get muddy inside the lenses, which makes typical incandescent light lenses almost impossible to see when the lights are on or off. Most guys around here never have trailer lights at all and if there's a light on the trailer it usually doesn't work. Cops don't care. But other parts of the world are total opposite. I know in Missouri you had better have lights.


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## bumpyroad (Nov 8, 2012)

I wouldn't waste the money on LEDs myself, especially since you are planning on mounting them up on posts out of the water. Its not like an RV where you boondock and want to conserve on battery power.


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