# 1436 SeaNymph



## Cheeseball (Oct 17, 2008)

Hi All, 

Here's my new project it's a 1448 Jon and trailer that I picked up for $75! It had been for sale in a neighbor's yard for some time with a for sale sign $400. A week went by and the sign was changed to $300... then $200, and it sat and sat. For good reason, it's a pretty ugly boat and no wiring works on either boat or trailer. So after about a month passed I went up and took a closer look. The guy came out and we started to talk. I told him I'd haul it away if he paid me. He laughed and said, "$100, and it's yours." I said I'd give him $50, he countered with $75... SOLD!

So anyways here it is. 







It doesn't leak and the trailers hubs are good. Just need repacking. 






The haggard hideous blue carpet is outta here. So is the seat and post. On the middle seat the original owner wrapped a board in carpet and screwed it down to the aluminum seat with drywall screws. The screws are of course rusted and the board is now just a pulpy mass. 






The back seat is junk too and is outta here. The transom board ply is separating and will be replaced. Maybe even do a high back transom if I'm feeling ambitious.






Overall a solid boat at a steal of a price. 





I'll post more pics as work progresses. Which may take awhile as I've been pretty short on "boat" time.


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## Zum (Oct 17, 2008)

Great boat.
Looks like you have a nice project.


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## phased (Oct 17, 2008)

Boat and trailer for $75...great buy. Heck around here you would be lucky to but one tire for $75. Look forward to pics of your mods.


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## Captain Ahab (Oct 17, 2008)

That is a great deal - Sea Nymph is a good boat (it is actually a Lund I believe)


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## RAPALA (Oct 17, 2008)

:shock: What a dealllllllllllllllllllllll.If you run up anymore steals like that i will drive from Tn. and pickit up.LOOKS LIKE A KEEPER.


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## Waterwings (Oct 17, 2008)

Great deal and looking forward to the mods! 8)


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## dedawg1149 (Oct 17, 2008)

great deal =D>


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## bassboy1 (Oct 18, 2008)

Captain Ahab said:


> That is a great deal - Sea Nymph is a good boat (it is actually a Lund I believe)


Lets try Lowe instead of Lund. 

That was a heck of a steal. Around here, that boat alone would have sold for 400, and from Macon on towards the coast, that trailer would have fetched 250 or more.


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## Cheeseball (Oct 18, 2008)

bassboy1 said:


> Captain Ahab said:
> 
> 
> > That is a great deal - Sea Nymph is a good boat (it is actually a Lund I believe)
> ...



Yeah, I figured even if it had holes like swiss cheese, I could still scrap the aluminum and sell the trailer and recoup my cash. Actually, I may have fibed a little. :---) After agreeing on the $75 price he told me he has been out of work for awhile and needed to raise some cash where he could. So I went ahead and gave him $100. But... I just had to brag up my hagglin skills a bit. 8) 

Any idea when SeaNymph became Lowe? There is no indication of a model year on the boat.


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## Jim (Oct 18, 2008)

Nice score cheeseball! =D>


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## ben2go (Oct 18, 2008)

Sweet deal.Hope that included paper werk.


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## Cheeseball (Oct 18, 2008)

ben2go said:


> Sweet deal.Hope that included paper werk.



Yep... but I'm waitin til the new year to switch it over.


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## bassboy1 (Oct 18, 2008)

Not sure of that. I do know that Sea Nymph and Grumman were OMC owned, and had identical boats for the longest of times. Then, either Lowe bought them when OMC went under or something, so the modern Lowe jon and utility boats are called the Sea Nymph series.


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## Cheeseball (Oct 19, 2008)

Ok, had a really busy weekend but managed to get to work on the boat a bit. I got all the carpet pulled up and much to my surprise I'm moding a mod. It appears someone fabricated a deck out of aluminum.





It's solid and well built so I figure I'll keep it and work it in to my design. The only thing I can't figure is why they did such a nice job fabing the deck and then they used steel rivets to install it.





I guess these things are nav lights... look more like Jujubees to me... your guess is as good as mine. At any rate, they are outta here and being replace with a real nav light. I'm not sure of the function of the aluminum plate riveted to the top. It's hard to see in this photo but, there is some front end dent work that will need to be hammered out . Anybody have good tips on that? I figure a 2x4 and a rubber mallet should do it. 





Here's another view of the bow. This was before I pulled up the carpet. You can see the half-ass motor mount that was fabed up here. This is... of course... outta here.





Here's where the previous anchor light was mounted and the switches are useless. I have a 5-switch panel with a 12v outlet that will replace this. 





Here's another look at the transom. Again, the board is being replaced and I'm thinking of doing a high back like Codeman's project. But I don't have a welder so until I can find someone to do the work for me, those plans will be up in the air. 






That's all for now...


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## ben2go (Oct 20, 2008)

You could drill the center out of those steel rivets and install new aluminum rivets.Wouldn't add maybe $10 or $15 to the total cost.It would help keep the aluminum from getting weak and corroding around the steel rivets.


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## dedawg1149 (Oct 20, 2008)

good job cleaning it out like mentioned ealier replace them with aluminum rivets


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## Cheeseball (Oct 20, 2008)

ben2go said:


> You could drill the center out of those steel rivets and install new aluminum rivets.Wouldn't add maybe $10 or $15 to the total cost.It would help keep the aluminum from getting weak and corroding around the steel rivets.



That's the plan, all non aluminum hardware is getting replaced. There are some truck bed tie downs mounted on the port side of the boat. The steel hardware on those are coroding away that will be removed as well. I guess I better get my tetnus shots up dated.


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## bassboy1 (Oct 20, 2008)

Cheeseball said:


> It's hard to see in this photo but, there is some front end dent work that will need to be hammered out . Anybody have good tips on that? I figure a 2x4 and a rubber mallet should do it.


Yes, bang out however you will, but keep in mind, aluminum work hardens. So, right now, the bow is weaker than before then dent, and when you reshape it, it will be weaker. That looks like it happened by powerloading on the trailer, with a real weak bow. Were it me, I would get a piece of 3/16 or so aluminum, and cut it to cover the whole front there. Then attach it with 3/16 dia. 1/2 inch grip length pop rivets sealed with 3M 5200 sealer. This should keep you from getting any more damage to the bow, and probably stiffen it up a bit too.


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## Cheeseball (Oct 21, 2008)

[/quote]
Yes, bang out however you will, but keep in mind, aluminum work hardens. So, right now, the bow is weaker than before then dent, and when you reshape it, it will be weaker. That looks like it happened by powerloading on the trailer, with a real weak bow. Were it me, I would get a piece of 3/16 or so aluminum, and cut it to cover the whole front there. Then attach it with 3/16 dia. 1/2 inch grip length pop rivets sealed with 3M 5200 sealer. This should keep you from getting any more damage to the bow, and probably stiffen it up a bit too.[/quote]

Thanks for the advice I think I will do just that, and maybe add a strip across the top as well. Would you seal the whole plate with 5200 or just the rivet holes?

I haven't figured out exactly how I'm going to do it, but I'm going to fab a TM mount, something like BassNBob's except out of aluminum.


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## bassboy1 (Oct 22, 2008)

Yes, bang out however you will, but keep in mind, aluminum work hardens. So, right now, the bow is weaker than before then dent, and when you reshape it, it will be weaker. That looks like it happened by powerloading on the trailer, with a real weak bow. Were it me, I would get a piece of 3/16 or so aluminum, and cut it to cover the whole front there. Then attach it with 3/16 dia. 1/2 inch grip length pop rivets sealed with 3M 5200 sealer. This should keep you from getting any more damage to the bow, and probably stiffen it up a bit too.[/quote]

Would you seal the whole plate with 5200 or just the rivet holes?

[/quote]
I would just seal the rivet hole, and dab some sealer into the middle of the pop rivet, incase it doesn't completely waterproof itself when you pull it tight.


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## Cheeseball (Nov 13, 2008)

Well... it's been hard finding time for the boat lately. But, between organizing a kids Halloween party at work (125+ kids), and my 5 mo. old son coming down with a 104 temperature for half a week I found some time for progress.

Most of the steel hardware has been removed. Still working on that. Plus, I managed to remove the old transom. 






The bottom edge is pretty rotten. I poked it with a key and could nearly push it all the way through. Here's the stern with the transom board removed.





Here's a hole through the hull where the previous owner had installed a pick up truck bed tie down. (just behind the seat) Since it is in the back of the boat I plan to widen this hole to install the bilge pump discharge. I don't have a drill bit wide enough. Does anybody have a good idea on how I can widen this, or should I just go get the bit?





And now, the part that has me all excited and chomping at the bit to get out on the water! I picked up this 2004 15hp 4stroke with electric start last night. Paid $1,250 for it. The previous owner said it's hardly been used and I believe him. I took the cowl off and the insides are in mint condition. He seemed like a standup guy and his property was kept up immaculately so I figured he's honest and obsessive about keeping things in good condition. I've been looking for a motor like this for quite some time and the new one's range from $2,800 - 2,500. So I figure I got a fair deal.





It also came with a gas tank (full of gas), a prop guard and one of those whale tail thingys. What is the purpose of those? Should I keep it or ditch it?





Well that's all for now...


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## ben2go (Nov 13, 2008)

The boats coming along nice.Good score on the Merc.The bit question.I'm not sure exactly what type you're looking at,but an electric jig saw would work.As soft as aluminum is and as close as the hole is to the top you could use a wood coping saw with a fine blade.I have a rope carbide blade for my hack saw that didn't cost but a couple dollars.Got it a Lowes.These are just some idears to think about next shopping trip.I hate to spend money on a tool I'll only use once.The whale tail question.I can't remember the exact name for that but they act like a hydo plane for the outboard.It helps to get the transom up on plane faster.It isn't nessasary on a light boat that floats on top of the water.It'd be great on a deep V or fiberglass boat.I wouldn't remove it unless it made the boat feel unsafe or unstable.


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## Big Buck (Nov 13, 2008)

Great buy on the Motor :lol: , I agree the newer ones that I have seen are around 2,000 or more also. On the hole, let us know what you end up doing, I need to cut a hole for a bilge pump in mine and I am curious as to how to do that. 

Marc


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## ben2go (Nov 13, 2008)

This is a good deal and it's exactly what I use just a different brand.It will also come in handy if you need to hang a new door in the house,change door knobs,or install dead bolts.
https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38425


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## bassboy1 (Nov 13, 2008)

ben2go said:


> This is a good deal and it's exactly what I use just a different brand.It will also come in handy if you need to hang a new door in the house,change door knobs,or install dead bolts.
> https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38425


I use cheap hole saws for aluminum all the time. If you take the center bit out, you can make nice round disks to patch holes too. Of course, a drill press really helps with this.


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## ben2go (Nov 13, 2008)

BassBoy
I dunno if you do this,but when I use hole saws on aluminum, without the center bit,I start the cut by reversing the drill.Soon as I get a kerf started,I switch over to forward, and finish the hole as normal.It helps keep the metal or hole saw from walking or wiggling around.


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## Cheeseball (Nov 17, 2008)

ben2go said:


> BassBoy
> I dunno if you do this,but when I use hole saws on aluminum, without the center bit,I start the cut by reversing the drill.Soon as I get a kerf started,I switch over to forward, and finish the hole as normal.It helps keep the metal or hole saw from walking or wiggling around.



Great tip! Thanks!


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## ben2go (Nov 17, 2008)

You're welcome.


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## Waterwings (Nov 17, 2008)

How much larger does the hole for the bilge pump overboard discharge have to be? You might be able to get away with just getting a reducer fitting that steps-down in size from the bilge pump discharge hose.


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## Cheeseball (Nov 17, 2008)

My bilge discharge hose is 3/4", so that makes for a 1" hole for the fitting. Is it ok to reduce the hose on the bilge?


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## ben2go (Nov 18, 2008)

Cheeseball said:


> My bilge discharge hose is 3/4", so that makes for a 1" hole for the fitting. Is it ok to reduce the hose on the bilge?



It may cut back on flow and up the pressure.I don't know if the back pressure would hurt the pump.Some will wear out fast.It may spray the water out due to the restriction,kinda like putting your finger of the end of a garden hose.That be a good way to run some one out of your fishing hole.Pull along side of them,hit the bilge pump switch,and spray the boat taken your fishing hole. :LOL2:


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## Cheeseball (Nov 18, 2008)

ben2go said:


> It may cut back on flow and up the pressure.I don't know if the back pressure would hurt the pump.Some will wear out fast.It may spray the water out due to the restriction,kinda like putting your finger of the end of a garden hose.That be a good way to run some one out of your fishing hole.Pull along side of them,hit the bilge pump switch,and spray the boat taken your fishing hole. :LOL2:



lol...I think I might just stick with the 1' fitting and drill the hole. :wink:


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## ben2go (Nov 18, 2008)

I am falling back on what I know about pumps.I've never used a bilge pump in one of my boats.I have only operated them in other boats that I have been on.


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## Cheeseball (Mar 10, 2009)

Well... I've been away from the web for a while. My PC was out of commission for a quite some time. But I'm up and running again. Now don't think that I've been a slouch either. After the weather turned cold I resorted to moving my boat into my very small basement. (my wife loves this) I've been slowly stripping the old paint off my boat using a citrus stripper. It works fairly well. Not as good as the heavy duty stuff, but it can be used indoors without the noxious fumes. It still has a strong smell, so I've been applying only small 2' x 2' patches of the stuff at a time to keep the smell down. I don't have much time to work on it. I come home on my lunch hour from work (I live about 300yards from where I work) to apply the stripper and then scrape each patch in the hour I have after work before my wife gets home with the baby. Then of course dad time begins :wink: Working in the basement is very cramped but I just about have the entire inside of the boat stripped. 






I've also been working on another project to help get my storage shed cleaned out and organized.






I built this motor rack using some scrap lumber I had. 






My storage shed is still quite packed full of crap. But I did manage to get my motors up off their skegs!






So, anyhow... I'm getting all phsyced up for the spring season and I want to get this puppy seaworthy soon, so look for further updates.


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## Cheeseball (Nov 15, 2009)

Well it's been quite awhile since I last updated this thread, but I have made a little progress. Earlier in the summer, with the help of some friends got the stripping done. Nothing new on stripping that isn't covered in other threads... stripping paint sucks. 

Jamie (Ranchero) took time out from his jet project and helped me out with his welding skills and I now have my raised transom. https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=8525&hilit=cheeseball+transom

Recently, I've found the time to prep the outside of the boat, prime and lay down a few coats. I started with sanding the whole outside with 440g sandpaper then a wipe down with acetone. I then used a self-etching primer laying down three thin coats. I let that dry then applied the paint in five thin coats and then two thick coats. Wet sanded with 600g and applied four more coats. Here's the result before the final wet sand.
















After the paint dried on the outside I started doing some framing work for the front and back deck. The back framing is all but finished. The raised transom is pretty solid too. I weigh about 195lb. and I can stand on the top of the transom and it won't budge. 






The front deck framing is still a work in progress.


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## Waterwings (Nov 15, 2009)

Paint and framing looks good! 8)


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## VBTravisD (Nov 16, 2009)

That aluminum work is awesome! 

...what are ya planning on doing with that 5 hp!?


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## Cheeseball (Nov 16, 2009)

VBTravisD said:


> That aluminum work is awesome!
> 
> ...what are ya planning on doing with that 5 hp!?



Thanks! I'm keeping that motor. I have a 1236 that I use that on. It's nice to have when the river gets low low...
Why are you looking for a motor?


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## Cheeseball (Nov 17, 2009)

Maybe some of you guys who have done some metal work could give me some advice. I have a nice piece of aluminum that the previous owner of my boat had used as a deck. I've decided not to use it in my design, but want to cut a piece off. Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but it is very hard to cut. I've been using my sawsall and it seems that it should not be this hard to cut. The metal 3/16". What I'm I doing wrong do I need a different blade? Should I oil the blade while cutting? Or is cutting sheet metal that thick that hard and I just need to keep at it?

It took about 25mins of cutting to get this far.


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## danmyersmn (Nov 18, 2009)

no that's not right at all. You should rip right through that metal. For example, I used my sawzall and cut up a '70 Dart Swinger so that I could toss it piece by piece into my Power Wagon and haul it off for recycling. I went through 3 maybe 4 blades. We use a sawzall to cut the A & B pillars and roof structures of cars when we need to extricate victims and the hydraulic tools can't get deployed fast enough. A sharp blade will take off a dozen roofs before it needs to be swapped out. 

Either your blade is dull or your metal is not resting on the sawhorse enough and its vibrating too much? Dunno, but the amount of cut you made there should be a few minutes not 25. The blade doesn't look like its missing teeth but maybe replace it anyway?

Looks like a Milwaukee saw? You should be able to throw that thing at just about anything and cut it up so the saw shouldn't be a problem.


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## Cheeseball (Nov 18, 2009)

I think you're probably right about the vibrations. While I was cutting the vibrations from cutting were shaking the clamps loose. I had to reattach them every so often. I guess I'm going to have to find something a little more solid to clamp it to.


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## Cheeseball (Nov 24, 2009)

Well I went out to HD to pick up some fresh sawzall blades to have on hand in case the last one I have breaks and I found this circular blade for cutting metal. It was actually cheaper than a pack of SA blades and I believe it will cut a much straighter line. I'll give it a go once the rain clears this weekend. 







Also, I just about have the front deck framing done. I'll post pics when finished...but again work on that will have to wait until the rain stops.


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## Cheeseball (Nov 25, 2009)

Well the rain finally broke for awhile and I got an hour of work in to finish the front deck frame. Next, on to framing the side rod box.


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## azfish (Nov 25, 2009)

Very nice work so far on the boat cheeseball. Question, are u finding it esy to work with the aluminum for your framing and have you gone through hull with any of them? If so what did u use to attach the framing with, alum rivets and then sealed with 3m 5200? 

Thanks


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## Cheeseball (Nov 26, 2009)

azfish said:


> Very nice work so far on the boat cheeseball. Question, are u finding it esy to work with the aluminum for your framing and have you gone through hull with any of them? If so what did u use to attach the framing with, alum rivets and then sealed with 3m 5200?
> 
> Thanks



Thanks for the compliment, I've really started enjoying this project now that the paint stripping is done. 

This is the first time I've worked with aluminum angle and yes, I find it very easy to work with. Pop rivets work great and are easy to use. Just make sure you spend the extra $ for a rivet gun with a swiveling head. I didn't do any bracing across the hull and eliminated the need to drill the hull. I've read in some other threads on this site and have read elsewhere that small aluminum boats like this one are designed to flex and twist a little and that excessive framing can cause strain and fatigue to the hull. I'm putting a 15hp on the back of this boat so I figure I want to keep fatigue to a minimum and let the hull flex. I think Hydrilla has an even better design than mine because his completely "floats" on the braces of his boats. Here's his thread: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=10430&start=100

I also fish the upper Potomac which is shallow and rocky so I wanted to keep the boat light as possible. I've avoided drilling holes in the hull and even patched a few holes with marine epoxy. These are photos of the inside of the boat where the epoxy has not been sanded down the other sanded and painted side you cannot tell where the holes are. 











If you are going to just put a trolling motor on the back of your boat and fish lakes and resevoirs I think you can frame away and not worry about hull flex. But if your going to put a large motor on the back I think it is something to consider. Riveting through the hull and sealing with 3M should be fine as well. I just wouldn't do it below the waterline.


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## Ranchero50 (Nov 26, 2009)

Thought that boat looked familiar...

For the sawzall, get a 10-12" 18 tooth or finer blade, install it upside down and cut at a very flat angle. With the sawzall upside down it can cut at a much flatter angle. Ideally you want 2-3 teeth in the cut or it'll buck and jump and make you miserable. You can use some WD-40 as cutting fluid, it works great for aluminum.

With the circular saw set the blade depth to around 1/4" and clamp a guide board for the correct offset from the blade so you don't have to hover over the blade (cut aluminum is hot). Wear ear plugs, it's really loud. Put the aluminum on a sacrificial board (keeps everything from chattering and is much safer), I use old pallets.

If you want some help with it, let me know.

Jamie


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