# New to tinboats



## Grease Slinger

Hello everyone , new here but love this jet boat section. Ive literally looked threw all 30 some pages reading any thread that caught my eye. But anyways I have a 1648 Alweld with a 75 evinrude on it and my main problem is speed ( yes you read that right) . It'll only run 30 . My boat is mostly used for fishing for cold cans . Not a fisherman . Motor seems to run fine , everything is set up good , bottom of boat is decent. Over the winter I planned on doing some hotrod stuff to the motor (has a 6 7/8 impeller in it and wouldnt pull a 7 3/16's i bought , thats my goal) and redoing the boat. It's not quite set up how I want and I think I could shed some weight that way = speed. But before I do that , anyone have a idea what a bare 1648 blazer ss goes for ? Like nothing in it but the ribs . Thanks everyone !


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## Lil' Blue Rude

If you wanna go fast I'm your guy. lol :mrgreen: Last time I checked on a 16' 48" Blazer ss they were around $2500.
Your 75hp isn't going to pull a 7 3/16, sorry just not gonna happen. You've probably got the 49 cube block since it's 75hp, if you have the 56 cube block you can get it built up to pull the 7 3/16 impeller but your better of just getting a 6 7/8 stainless 3 blade. The 49 cube is better for high rpm the 56 is better for low end torque. jets need low end torque. It's hard to get back the low end torque with a 49 cube because of the port lay out on them. You can put a 56 cube powerhead on your current mid section, just have to swap out the exhaust and the drive shaft or put the 49 crank in the 56 cube block.


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## Grease Slinger

Lil blue rude I very much expecteded you to hit this up. Yes your are the guy I'm after , buuuuttt I'm kinda stuck on the 49. I've poured over fast Fred's on brf , read every page twice ( seen ya there and on here in all the right places ) but really I'm stuck on the 49 ( I already own it lol ) the thing with the 56 is isn't there exahuast cast in ? I figure there losing a lot there ( I really don't care bout hole shot more top end cruising) , yes I know your gonna preach the 56 . Spare me lol , I wasn't joking about reading all that. I'm planning new pistons , maybe some finger ports and maybe some laughing gas to prove a point every now and then . It will pull that 7 +by the time I'm done lol . I'm gonna call in a day or two and price some . I almost think over half the batle is my boat . Idk I guess we'll really see come spring


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## Lil' Blue Rude

To each there own. Love to see a fast 49 with a pump but have my doubts. Fast freds a big talker, when it comes to a jet pump he don't know squat. 
Yes the exhaust runners are cast in but the exhaust tuner isn't cast in and can be replaced. If you don't have enough torque to get up top then having all the hp in the world up top won't do you any good. You have to be able to get over that hump. You want torque with a jet, if you don't have that it's gonna be a sluggish motor that takes forever to get going. 
More power to you if you want to build a 49'er. I'm interest in the build and I'd be happy to help with any questions you got and come spring if you got a motor put together you thinks hot and wanna run them I'd be happy to line up and see what it's got. 
How fast are you wanting to go?


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## Grease Slinger

I know it's a challenge but I figure worse comes to worse I end up right where I started , witha slow boat lol. And yea he does a lot of talkin but lots of good info from others on there too. Just curious did you change your port heights much ? I know we got two different animals but didn't know if you had found what works best or what to stay away from ? And the little support in the pump , can it be removed ? Will it help anything ? I'm gonna polish the insides . Did you put a lightened fly wheel on ? Been around truck pulling a long time and know that's not wise there and jets kinda translate over roughly. And we'll see come spring if it's anything worth talkin bout haha . I'm pretty familiar with 4 strokes ( built a few gassers and more diesels than i can count ) messed around with a banshee I had once but a ob 2 stroke is a whole new ball game to me. Got a few buddies who know all kinds of stuff bout 2 stroke 4 wheelers but no ones ever been in a ob. So I'm trying to soak up all the knowledge I can and appreciate any input.


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## Grease Slinger

And if I could run 40 to 45 I'd have the biggest grin on the river. But realistically I'd say upper 30s would be ok


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## Lil' Blue Rude

Stay away from changing port height especially on that motor. Finger ports help. Leave the support in the pump. With outboards the lighter rotating assembly helps make the motor more responsive. Look up Gordon Jennings two stroke tuning hand book. A lot of good info on porting and what changes effects what. He talks about high rpm street bikes from the 70's or so but a lot of it still applies to all two strokes.

Your boat can probably make upper 30's but still don't thing it's gonna pull the 7 3/16 impeller. I've hit 50mph with a 6 7/8 3 blade stainless.


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## Keystone

opcorn: 

All I can do is sit by and read. I know almost next to nothing about the jet stuff.


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## Grease Slinger

I'm not looking for responsive , mine will need all the torque it can find and little factor in truck pullin is the more rotating mass the harder it is to fall off the power band but then again thats bbc v-8's . And on the 7 feller collecting dust in the garage , off sound ( never had a tach in it ) I'd say it was doin 2k ish with it , 21mph gpsd with 3 peep . Roughly guessing with the 6 its runnin mid 6k at 30 mph ( sounds healthy don't labor bad at all) . I think it was right on the line of doin something or laying down and it layed down . All guesses , but half decent idea . On port hieght I don't want to raise it but I was thinking of widening it and maybe bringing down the bottom side with a decent curvature and makin the top match. I've read the two stroke tuners handbook and did plenty of math on the side to find out expansion chambers ain't the ticket on out boards unless you want lotsa attention . And in serious moment how do you feel bout the stainless ? Would ya of bought it was plated in gold if ya know what it does ?


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## Lil' Blue Rude

Boats and pullers are different when it comes to that. The water has some give to it. So having a lighter rotating assembly doesn't really lose that much inertia vs a puller with a light rotating assembly. Just makes it little easier to get going. Plus it's easier on the top main bearing of a outboard to have a light flywheel.

I run a stainless in every motor I've had and see at least 1mph gain in them. Seem to have a better hole shot. Worth the money if you want to go fast. Just make sure to get a 3 blade and not the 4 blade. 4 blades are slower.


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## Grease Slinger

Well 1 mph is worth every cent ! (Never thought I'd say that and be serious lmao) .I guess that does make sense , not a load against a solid surface . So would you suggest having it turned down or search for I think it was the 50hp one ?


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## Lil' Blue Rude

Been told the older model flywheels might come apart if there turned down, something about the way they are cast leaves all the strength in the outer skin. Not worth the chance of getting someone hurt to turn one of them down. the 94 and up cast iron ones can be turned down. Not sure how much though. Normal 50hp fly wheel won't work. The mod50 flywheels will work. There's 2 different ones the red ones and the gold ones. Not easy to find and not cheap.


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## Grease Slinger

Yea defently not worth risking it , had a old man tell me once he had a fly wheel come apart in his race car and cut the header in half. I don't want no ones head comin off cause I'm huntin speed. I looked it up I guess it's the 65hp that will work and it's 3 pounds heavier than a mod 50 so I'll begin the search I guess . Another random thing I've thought about , buddies got a completely ruined intake foot I thought about playing with , making it into a scoop shape . Your thoughts ? It would be positive pressure against it instead of a suction but didnt know if it might bring in a bunch of drag . And then there's those pesky rocks lol


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## Lil' Blue Rude

1972 65hp will work, weights about 7lbs or so. you have to trim on your timer base to make it fit. The radius from the flywheel to the hub isn't enough to clear so you have to trim the timer base at the edge. You can clean up the intake to help water flow but I think making a scoop will create to much drag. You can cut the leading edge of the liner to help water flow.


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## Grease Slinger

The one in the center has to be cut down or the stator ? I replaced the stator when I first got this thing and its a lil fuzzy remember what's goin on under there . Once it all gets back together I might try a little scoop ish kinda thing. I've already worked the shoe over pretty good and beveled the liner. I'm actually in the garge yankin the motor right now. So let the fun begin lol


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## Lil' Blue Rude

The one in the middle. You'll see what I'm talking about if you get one of those flywheels. Are you going with cast or forged pistons? How high are you planning on getting the compression? What kinda reeds you going with? I like my compression around 140-150psi Can be higher but it's harder on the motor.
Personally I use cast pistons because I don't get compression high enough or turn enough rpms to need the forged pistons. A lot of people on scream and fly like to nickname the wisecos "sticko's". Thinks it's due to the locator pins coming out. The forged pistons expand more then a cast piston when hot and over time the locater pins sometime loosen u and eventually fall out. Also a forged piston needs to come up to operating temp before taking off (guess all motors should be) but with the forged pistons there's extra clearance between the cylinder and pistons to allow the pistons expansion when at operating temp. You probably know all about the cast vs forged piston but figured I'd explain for any one else that's wondering.
When you get the head off take a pic of the ports. might be able to help you out with it. Use to have a 49 block laying around but that's been a few years back.


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## Grease Slinger

I planned on using wisecos . Seems like most of the threads I've seen on wisecos going bad where older ones , seen on one someone said they changed they're recipe a little and didn't have as bad of a problem with swelling. I'm assuming your saying they swell some , lose the pin , ring moves to a port , break and everything goes catistrophic. Anyways it seems like with plenty of clearance and a good break in they'll do the trick. I'm planning on keepin a extra 10 pounds on the boat at all times, that's why forged . Got a buddy with a shoal runner I'd like to take down whenever I want hahaha. Comp i was thinkin 155-165 range . Not a lot of info on spray and outboards and I figure that's safe ish . Reeds I was thinking boysen but seen a lot of good things about Carson I think it is. One problem I am having is uploading pictures on here. Guess its a I device problem. And if ya run across that block I might need it sometime , seems like I might be venturing into uncharted water


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## Grease Slinger

Also didn't know if studding the head would be a good idea with nos. And what about head gaskets ? Are they known to let go often ? Are there options ? Like copper or a mls ? And maybe not this go around but what you think about a e-85 setup . I kinda think a high comp e85 setup would be pretty bitchen but didn't know if the carbs could be retrofitted


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## Lil' Blue Rude

What kind of setup are you gonna run with the nitrous? Are you going to fog it in the air box or plumb it behind the reed in the front half? Are you gonna run a enrichment system? I'd start with 140-150psi especially if your gonna run nitrous. Probably want to back of the timing alteast for the first couple test then play with it when you get to tuning it in.You can always shave a little more of the head. Are you gonna run premium? How big of shot are you planning on running? 
A guy around here runs a 50 shot in a 60/40 merc. Think he's set it up for 75 shot and maybe even tried a 100 shot before. Don't think it held together or he was afraid of blowing it with the 100 shot. Can't really remember. I've heard of a couple guys running nitrous around. 2 were 60/40 merc and the other was a 56cube omc. The mercs ran good but a built 56 would still beat them and the 56 had to be detuned enough to keep it from blowing, it didn't gain much so he ditched it.
As far as reeds go I think Chris Carson's are better then Boyseens. From what I've seen and read the boyseens fray at the ends and don't seal well after a little bit of run time. There's a test on scream and fly between Boyseens, Chris Carson's, and TDR's. Carson's and TDR's are about the same the Boyseens made a little more power but they where fraying by the end of testing.
You can have the heads cut for O-rings, studding it probably wouldn't hurt. Don't know of anybody around here doing it. These head gaskes can let go. Always use a new one if you pull the head off. 
Think it was on here where a guy converted a 15 or 25hp to a e 85 motor. Might of been another forum but I think it was tinboats.
You might look into Klotz Nitro or Klotz Cozoc (think that's how it's spelled lol) Gasline additive. Don't think it's as hard on the motor as nitrous. Plus it's a power adder that don't run out until the gas tanks empty. Never used it but seen a few guys that have. Think it's good for a couple hundred rpms and better holeshot. I'm more of a all motor guy myself. Don't want someone using that as an excuse for getting beat. :mrgreen:


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## Grease Slinger

Wet single stage port plumbed in behind the reeds. Unless there's somethin your thinkin might be better ? Figured I'd start at 75 ( why not try doubling out the gate lol ) and like to work up and see what seems safeish from there . And I always run premium ( non eth) True I could always go further , and I've even thought about buying another one or two off flee bay and have em cut different . I see em cheap enough and deffently if I have orings cut. And always a new HG . And Ill have to check that out , I wonder how seals hold up over time. And I never heard of that stuff I'll have to check it out , I'm just thinking of very upper end of the compression range , e85 , and loads of timing . Only down fall would be shorter fuel range and if it ate up seals. Seams like they have the separation issues fixed these days. And the only excuse I'd bring along is I didn't bring my cubic inches with me today :LOL2:


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## Grease Slinger

I was thinkin somethin similar to this :lol: :lol: :lol: 


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kGgDfoIAMWk&feature=youtube_gdata_player


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## Lil' Blue Rude

I think you'll want some kind of enrichment system to keep it from leaning out and melting down pistons. Might fix up a smaller gas tank (maybe double oiled) and plumb it to a primer solenoid. Wire it in with the nitrous button. I think the klotz stuff needs to be flushed after you use it. Just have a small tank of double oiled gas to run it on for a minute or 2 at the end of a day to clean it out and oil it up.


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## Grease Slinger

That's what a wet system consist of. It adds fuel along with no2 . I probably will have a smaller tank with a little richer mix and either some race fuel or av gas for it cause of the compression. Idk if ima spring for a controller , but it might be required tho, it seems like the dry setups do the burn down after they come off the button but idk if any controller will run just fuel for a half a sec after I come off the button. Idk that's along ways from now. Hopefully it's semi respectable off the bottle first.


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## Grease Slinger

And I kinda found out what that stuff you was talking about was , it's basically a nitrometh additive and ya have to retune for it. I don't really think I'd like something I'd have to retune for if I was to run out of it. With the bottle , if it's empty I can still be on e river with no changes. Im shooting for decent power on pump fuel [-o< and lotsa grins on the nose candy


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## Grease Slinger

Do you run a fixed timing or keep it adjustable ?


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## Lil' Blue Rude

Shows how much I know about nitrous. lol Can't blame you for not wanting to have to change jets all the time. Think it's basically nitro meth with a different base so it will mix with gasoline and not become volatile like nitro methane is.
I run adjustable timing.


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## Grease Slinger

Yea a wet setup is way safer than a dry ( just fogging the air box) dry setup is what gives no2 the bad name most of the time , people can't make there system keep up with the charge of air nitrous is bringing in. HP in a bottle !!! Now , I feel like an idiot , but I cannot get the power head and mid separated . It twist around some but it won't separate . Do I just need to get rougher with it ?


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## Lil' Blue Rude

Should be six bolt in the bottom and a nut. The nut is on the back side of the motor right below the head. Actually holds the motor to the adapter plate. Kinda hid away there. Think it's 1/2". Should be all that's holding it on unless the drive shaft splines wore enough to be snagging some.


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## Grease Slinger

Yea the more I've messed around I've figured out that my drive shaft is stuck. I've got everything loose but nothing will come apart so I'm almost positive it's stuck . Any tricks or tips ?


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## Lil' Blue Rude

Might try to have someone twist the impeller back and forth while you try to lift it off. I'd say it's wore enough there's a step on the splines that's catching. Might try to drop the jet, that might be easier to get it off first. Just make sure the motors not tilted up so the powerhead don't fall off. lol


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## Grease Slinger

I've got every bolt out of the mid and the jet . I'll give that a try , I'm just short of heating it at the moment . My nerves are getting short with it lol


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## Lil' Blue Rude

I wouldn't put any heat o it, no real good way to get to it without putting heat on the block to. I'd be afraid of warping the block. Is there any play between the shaft and the crank if you turn the fly wheel back and forth? Pretty sure this is why they went to a fine spline shaft around 89 or so. The 4 splines end up catching like yours. My brothers last motor had the same problem. Just had to work the fly wheel around and try to pull it off. Finally got it after 15min or so. PAIN!!!


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## Grease Slinger

Hell id be happy with 15 min . And no play at all , she's stuck tight . I was thinking maybe put some wood in between the impeller and the pump housing but that makes for a high dollar puller. Idk , I'll post back when I get somethin accomplished


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## Lil' Blue Rude

Here's a old post from Chris Carson on scream and fly. Leave the fuel and electrics connected,break the Powerhead loose from it's gasket and insert a wedge,preferably a wide one beside the center of the back where the exhaust and midsection meet,wedge the Powerhead up 1/4-1/2 in,in the rear only,since the drive-crank spline is close to the front of the motor this will ruin the alignment of the two shaft splines.Now start the motor and the misaligned and spinning shafts will break up the rust and the lower lull magically fall off... In very hard cases you may go through a few heat up cool down sessions or even have to gently pry down on the lower,but it will work,this method has never failed me, many times,chris

Might start one or 2 bolt back in just to have something to hold the powerhead from falling off. wouldn't tighten them down just start a few threads in. Wouldn't run it over a minute out of the water though and probably be a good idea to put in a new water pump impeller afterwards. Also seen where people have wedged something in between the mid and the lower unit. Worst comes to worst cut the drive shaft.


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## Grease Slinger

I had some chisels wedged between the mid adapter and the power head and cranked it over a couple times with a rachet up top with no luck . I think if I give the shaft a little heat and have pressure on it maybe it'll break the rust loose or whatever's holding it


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## Lil' Blue Rude

Don't think turning over by hand will do any good think you'll need to start it. That will jar it more then cranking over by hand will. I think you'll burn up the bottom main seal and the guides in the bottom main bearing by the time you get enough heat in it to turn loose.


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## Grease Slinger

FINALY SOME HEADWAY !!!!! Mine was froze and notched like you said . Thanks a bunch for tellin me that id still be fighting it. It finally unstuck tonight and then I could tell it was notched and it was a job to even get it out after that. Ima try to link a pic


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## Grease Slinger

https://i1363.photobucket.com/albums/r714/VanceRowden/18F5F459-AEED-4C96-AE30-68B3CC8E039B-122-000000055F4AE0A7_zpsd9a0bcc1.jpg


Well I guess I'm not tech savvy enough to figure out how to resize my pic so this link will have to do


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## Lil' Blue Rude

Glad to hear you got it off finally. Looks like it's time for a new shaft. Is your motor a short shaft or long shaft?


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## Grease Slinger

Idk , how long is each one ? And yea that pic makes it look good , she's toast lol


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## Lil' Blue Rude

Transom will be around 22" tall if it's a short shaft and 27" if it's a long shaft. Not sure what the mid length is off the top of my head. I've got a new 4 spline long shaft laying around here. Here's a picture of a 75 stinger short shaft with a pump.


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## Grease Slinger

Well my shaft itself is roughly 24" and my mid with the tuner plate in it is 13 3/4. Looks very similiar to that stinger but that's a pic so ya know how that goes. What's so special bout the stinger and whatever the other one is ? And If your interested in letting it go I might have to take it off your hands


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## Lil' Blue Rude

Sounds like you have a short shaft then if your mid s that short. My shaft's for a long shaft. Think one of the differences between the normal 75hp and the stinger and hustler was a high compression head. Want to say it was about the same as a normal head with .100" shaved off, don't quote me on that. lol But I think that what I'd read some where. Are you planning on putting finger ports in the motor?


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## Lil' Blue Rude

If your motors a short shaft you need to find a tilt and trim and bracket from a Yamaha pro 50. They can be adapted to the short 49 mids. They never made tilt and trim for the short shafts 3 cylinders If it's a long shaft you just need the tilt and trim form a normal 75hp Johnson. Makes a huge difference in performance getting the perfect trim angel.


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## Grease Slinger

Now that ya say that I think I remember something similiar . And yea gonna try lol may end up ruining what was a decent motor lol . And I stumbled apon a guy selling a aftermarket one that you bolted in between the motor and transom . Are those worth a dang ? It seemed priced right at 250 buck and kinda Kickin myself for not goin and getting it junk or not it's better than what I got lol


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## Grease Slinger

Well started tearing down tonight and it's a good thing I did. Found out a couple things , I had a blown head gasket on cyl 2 and 1 could of been leaking, it's got oversized miss matched pitons in it (1) 20 over (2) 20 over but diff from #1 (3) 30 over. Cyl 1 has a gawld piston and what seems like a ring snagging a little. Very depressing seeing the condition of the internals . Try to get it split tomorrow and see what kinda surprises the crank has for me :?


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## Lil' Blue Rude

Only down side to a tilt and trim like that is there's more set back and that can cause problems with cavitation. But having tilt and trim is worth every penny. Sound like it's time for some .040" over pistons. Sucks to hear that.


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## Lil' Blue Rude

Making any head way with it?


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## Grease Slinger

Nah , life's been a little nuts lately. Had tons of customers vehicles come in and all where "need done yesterday" kinda deals. Then me and the gf split the sheets. Hell I ain't even had time to cut wood and I'm runnin dangerously low lol. But it's been burnin up my mind , seein it all broke apart on the bench . I need to order some carbides and and a few other things . Any suggestions on gasket kits ? Where from , best quality ?


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## Lil' Blue Rude

Not real sure about what gaskets to use. Seems like WSM gaskets are cheaper quality though so I'd stay away from them with a high performance build. At least for the head gasket that is. Have you had any time to mess with it anymore?


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## Lil' Blue Rude

Any updates ?


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## Grease Slinger

Been a bit since I got on here , decided to not get to carried away on this motor , I want something with a little more life left in it to play with . So doing pretty mild stuff to it lots of of cleaning up , no finger ports , gonna cut the head down , cast pistons . Waiting on parts at the moment , couple gaskets back ordered . But I can't remember how much to take off the head ? Neighbor is gonna do it for me ( machinist with small setup in his garage ) , what's safe amount to take off and get me around say 150 ish ? That's safe on cast pistons isn't it ? And didn't you say once you had a 49 power head ? Kinda in the market for one


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## Lil' Blue Rude

I'd cut .040"-.050" off the head the first time. You can always cut more off later if need be. Wouldn't cut much more then .080" off all together. 150psi should be fine on cast pistons. I don't have the 49 powerhead any more. You should be able to pick one up cheap on ebay.


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## Grease Slinger

Little update , dropped the head off at the neighbors machine shop tonight . Put the bottom end together yesterday. Hopefully have it mostly assembled in a week or two. And maybe if the good lord graces me get a few nice days to break it in before I start remodeling my boat.


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## Grease Slinger

Randomly now able to load pics ! Here's my beater


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## Grease Slinger

Got my Carson reeds in today , anyone cut there stops and how far ? Gonna clean up the cages some too


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## Lil' Blue Rude

Don't cut them, you can bend them back so the reeds can open up more but only do the top side. I've found the bottom reeds are bad about chipping if you open up the bottom reed stop. Knock off the sharp edges on the inside of the reed cages but make sure not to touch the outside of the reed cage were the reeds lay.


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## Grease Slinger

How much should I bend em ? 1/4" or so ? And yea I was just gonna smooth em up


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## Lil' Blue Rude

Thinking it was about 5/16 or something like that. Can't remember off the top of my head. Just have to see how much room you have and open them up till they almost touch the inside of the crank case.


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## Grease Slinger

Any idea why the bottoms crack and the tops don't ?


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## Lil' Blue Rude

If I had to guess I would say it has something to do with the angle of the cages and the way the incoming air hits the top reeds more then the bottom reeds so the top reeds probably have a little more cushion when closing then the bottom reeds do. Could be wrong just my guess. I've but thicker reeds on the bottom and have had better luck so far knock on wood.


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## Grease Slinger

That does make sense thinking about how there angle in there. I bought a set of the whites , can't remember if they're the thicker or thinner ones


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## Grease Slinger

I seen on another thread you know the gw luterell feller who makes some exhaust , does he make anything for the ole 49' ?


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## Grease Slinger

I've honestly thought about attempting to sand cast my own 'manifold' if you will kinda like the nydhal kind and have the neighbor clean it up with his mill. Just don't know if I can pull it off. Guess it wouldn't hurt to try lol


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## Lil' Blue Rude

Yeah I know GW, he doesn't do anything to the 49ers as far as I know. He'll probably tell you your wasting your time and to buy a 56 cube. Not sure how hard it would be to cast a exhaust manifold. I've read on boat racing facts were a guy modded the stock manifold to perform close to the nydal style exhaust from what he claimed.


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## Grease Slinger

Yea I seen that too but he never really says what he does and by looking at it there really isn't much I see you could do , maybe mill a spacer plate out to give more volume but then you start loosing density and the pop pushing back on the other cylinders idk. He makes it sound like he grinds his but I don't see where. What do you suggest on tuner lengths ? I've seen all sorts of em , longer for torque right ? Slight expansion ?


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## Grease Slinger

And what do you think of dry stacking ? Is it just removing the big can and drilling holes at the bottom of the mid ? I've seen some say it just makes noise and some say it helps mid and top end?


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## Lil' Blue Rude

Dry stacking is when you remove almost all the water from the mid section. Not sure where on 49's but you'll have to drill and tap a hole for a pipe fitting and run a piece of hose down and out of the mid section. You'll also have to make sure that you have a small hole that will spray the out side of the exhaust tuner with water to keep it from getting to hot and busting. Longer tuners usually make more torque and most flare toward the end some. The best that I can remember on the manifold was he cut it down in between the two red lines. He might have even cut the one below it to. Couldn't find the picture but he did some grind like that, not much to grind.


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## Grease Slinger

Well just a little run down for anyone who stumbles across this wondering about doing the same to a old evinrude , I smoothed the exhaust port windows , kept stock port height , milled the head 45 , cut a bigger window in the number 2 exhaust plate and ground down the bridge , put a slight slope on the reed/carb plate , ported reed cages , and Chris Carson reeds. Put it in the pond earlier and did a slight break in , all seems well about to go do a comp test.


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## Lil' Blue Rude

Cool, let us know how it does.


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## Grease Slinger

Well took the rig out today , by myself with bunch junk in with it and a bunch of water in it I could run 31-32 up and down would run 35-36 both on severe chop. Had to take my aftermarket trim off cavatated too much , would even jump on plain with it . Extremely happy  gimme time lil blue I'm comin for ya hahahaha :---)


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## Lil' Blue Rude

Glad to hear you got it going. Sounds like it's clipping along pretty good.


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