# HELP! Correct LED Light Kit?



## kilogulf59 (Jul 26, 2016)

Howdy,

New member here and I am also new to boats and trailers. Just picked a 1979 MonArc 16-footer w/Evinrude 35HP and trailer. Yeah, that's old (so am I) but well kept (I am not). The problem is the trailer lights are shot and instead of screwing around with the old junk I figured it would be best to just do all new lights and wiring.

Been researching kits for hours now and I find many boat trailer kits still short out when submerged (so how are these even sold as boat trailer lighting?) and LED is better than incandescent and so forth and so on. Therefore, I figured I'd come here and consult all you fellas who have real-world experience at this stuff.

Just so you are aware, I'd rather spend a few bucks extra up front and do it right than go through all this work and still have ongoing problems.

This is the kit I have tentatively decided upon *SEACHOICE LED TRAILER LIGHT KIT SCP 51901*

This is my boat & trailer...


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## perchjerker (Jul 26, 2016)

Im sure they are fine

I have a similar LED set from Tractor Supply, I love them


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Jul 26, 2016)

That looks like a really good set. 
Tinned wire, Stainless steel hardware but I would buy a metal license plate bracket.
Then when your doing the wiring buy a roll of white wire and run a ground to each light.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Jul 26, 2016)

Also your trailer looks too short for your boat. The bunks should go all the way to the transom and a little past other wise you could put a hook into the hull due to the weight of the motor hanging unsupported.


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## perchjerker (Jul 27, 2016)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> Also your trailer looks too short for your boat. The bunks should go all the way to the transom and a little past other wise you could put a hook into the hull due to the weight of the motor hanging unsupported.



good observation Ick


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## jethro (Jul 27, 2016)

I had trouble with lights on my last boat trailer, I would go through about a dozen sets of 1152 bulbs a season. Then I discovered that they make high vibration 1152 bulbs made specifically for trailers. That put me down to like 4 or 5 sets of bulbs a season. 

Then I bought a new to me boat that had trailer lights mounted on roller load guides. The load guides are awesome in themselves, but I think the key is the lights are up high and do not get submerged. It boggles my mind but the bulbs in the lights are the ones that came in it and I've had the boat for 3 years. The only disadvantage is how they are mounted they are sticking way out and could get damaged. So far so good as long as I am careful. 






Not exactly cheap but these roller load guides are great. They don't look as tall as mine though. https://www.etrailer.com/Boat-Trailer-Parts/CE-Smith/CE27610.html


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## BigTerp (Jul 27, 2016)

LEDs are definitely the way to go. I went through numerous bulbs and a set or two of the incandescent sets before I made the switch. Using my boat in the winter during waterfowl season, even after unplugging the lights, the bulbs would sometimes bust due to being hot and dunked into the cold river water. I bought a set of off eBay for I think around $40-$50 2 years ago. No more unplugging at the ramp and my trailer lights are now brighter then my truck lights, which is a nice added safety measure. I agree with lckstckn about running dedicated grounds to each light. I did this and zero issues with my trailer lights since. Where before it seemed like there were issues every 2nd or 3rd trip.


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## kilogulf59 (Jul 27, 2016)

Thanks for the advice on the lights...especially the part about individually grounding each light.

*More questions:*

- Do any of you use anything like Anti-Seize on the mounting hardware and ground screws when you install?

- What type of wire connectors do you use/prefer?

- Do you use dielectric grease on the connections and/or plug?

- Do you unplug the trailer prior to submersion (like BigTerp mentioned and my buddy does)?

Any other installation/maintenance/usage tips would be GREATLY appreciated.

As far as the trailer is concerned, I see your point but it's not as bad as it looks. The boat is actually sitting back a few inches on the trailer. I'll look and see if I can move the bunks back a tad as well. I'm not overly concerned, that boat and trailer have been together since 1979. I do, however, thank you as I now know what to look for should I ever buy another boat/trailer.


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## BigTerp (Jul 27, 2016)

I did not use anything on the mounting hardware. Mine came with lock washers, which are plenty sufficient.

For all connections on my boat I use tinned marine wire with heat shrink connectors. Best bet for use on something like a boat where things will be getting wet. I get all of my wiring/connectors from here. https://tinnedmarinewire.com/wire/

I use dielectric grease on all of my connections on my boat, including the trailer wiring.

I haven't unplugged my lights at the ramp since I made the switch to LED. Not a single issue with my trailer lights since the switch. This is the exact kit I got for my trailer 2 years ago. https://www.ebay.com/itm/LED-Submersible-Square-Light-Kit-Trailer-Under-80-Tail-Stop-Brake-Boat-Marine-/191270901665?hash=item2c88a257a1:m:mv2GfwZelraqz-cQoIgYJgA&vxp=mtr

I also got these for side markers. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Amber-LED-Trailer-Truck-Clearance-Side-Marker-Submersible-Light-2-5-x-1-25-/222144236020?hash=item33b8d409f4:m:mQPVe-WNMJgaGDyCA8iFnwA&vxp=mtr

Definitely ground each light. IIRC, I used 14AWG size wire that I had left over from my build. You can get a 50' roll of that from the link above for $10. They used to sell it by the foot, but looks like they don't anymore. So it might be cheaper to get it somewhere else by the foot.

Other than that, it's pretty simple to wire up the trailer lights. Just make sure you leave yourself enough slack at the coupler end to plug the lights into your truck with room for sharp turns.


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## kilogulf59 (Jul 28, 2016)

A big thanks to all...you've been very helpful. 

The project itself isn't complex but it's the little things that count and that's why I asked so many questions.


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## Steve A W (Jul 28, 2016)

kilogulf59
I've got the same set on my trailer for 6 years now.
They came from Wallmart at the same price!
Anyway I haven't had any problems with them.
In fact the year after I put them on I hit one with the 
mower and broke the housing  
I was so mad I figured i would replace it when it quit
working. Five years and it's still working.
I used never seize on all mounting bolts and elect. connections.
I n/s the wire and then used crimp connectors and heat shrink
tubing. Haven't had any problems since I installed them.

Steve A W


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## kilogulf59 (Jul 29, 2016)

Good to know Steve, thanks.

I'm goin' with heat-shrink crimp connectors, possibly liquid electric tape as well just to be safe, anti-seize on the mounting hardware, and a little dielectric grease for the plug.


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## driz (Jul 29, 2016)

kilogulf59 said:


> Good to know Steve, thanks.
> 
> I'm goin' with heat-shrink crimp connectors, possibly liquid electric tape as well just to be safe, anti-seize on the mounting hardware, and a little dielectric grease for the plug.



Heat shrink and liquid electric tape is just the kind of overkill you want for something that gets dunked and left out in the weather. I like using a heat gun on mine. It gets it more uniform for me tha n using a lighter and you don't overheat and burn anything else while doing it. That heat shrink that Harbor Freight carries works fine for me and always has. I dab some of the liquid tape on the ends of each section of tube. Stay away from those plastic clamp over plastic taps. I have only removed a few that weren't full of corrosion and they are all but impossible to seal. They might have their uses but not under a vehicle.


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## kilogulf59 (Jul 30, 2016)

Well I figure if you're going to do it, do it right the first time...plus, every trailer I've had experience with, via friends, has always had some darn problem with the lighting. I'm lazy, I only like to do things one time


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## driz (Jul 30, 2016)

It's always better to just put on new lignt sets, wire and all than try to repair old stuff. Then you can save most of the old wire for other uses as usually it's only the ends that get corroded. I quit running wire inside the frame too. Keep it on the inner side of the outside of the frame and tie it on with Nylon ties securely. It's a trailer not a show car and it's oh so easy to do anything needing doing with the wire exposed. The only place I put it inside is the tongue for protection. Like the old Sarge used to say, "Keep it simple , stupid". 
My personal peve is mounting the license plate. I got slashed enough times walking around mine in the garage ect that I said never again. I mount mine either down below or some way that awful edge isn't sticking out . If you have to do that then do yourself a favor . Take some plastic tubing slit it and glue it along at least the outside edge. Your shins and knees will thank you.
On the one I just did I drilled it and tapped 2 mounting holes in the thick vee of the rear cross frame. It clears the ground good enough for me. I mounted the light on the bottom of the bunk support in front of it and above. No more slashes! [-X


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## kilogulf59 (Jul 30, 2016)

10-4 and way ahead of you driz on the zip-ties, once everything is set, I planned on using two per securing point  Like I said, I'm lazy, I only like to do things one time. That and every time I take a short cut I get screwed so I just do it right (and then some) the first time.

In Wisconsin we don't need a plate for trailers. Boat trailers weighing over 3,000 pounds must be registered and titled with the DMV but that's it.


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