# 1/16" hose on 1986 Evinrude 110hp



## KillerKilgore (Apr 24, 2018)

Have a 1986 Evinrude 110hp there are these hoses that go from the side of the block to the underside of the carbs.
The hoses look to be 1/16" ID 1/4"OD. Looks like I could use the the thin-walled 1/16 weedeater type hose. 
What would/could it hurt?


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## KillerKilgore (Apr 26, 2018)

Started thinking and there has to be a reason that the hose has such a thick wall so prob best to replace with same stuff.

So I was able to locate a repair shop where I'm working this week that had the hose instock. Got 8 feet. 

Shop told me that hose lubed the upper and lower bearings and the excess fuel is taken back to carb. Or something like that.


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## Pappy (Apr 26, 2018)

That is only part of the explanation.
The rest of the hoses are primer lines, coming from the primer solenoid, and recirculation hoses. 
The recirculation hoses you will find will go from the bypass cover of one cylinder to the intake manifold of another thus burning what unburned fuel accumulates in the intake manifold. 
The other hose comes from the lower main bearing area and the crankcase pressure from #4 cylinder forces the unburned fuel from that area up to the upper main bearing. 
That bearing is a huge roller bearing. Reason it is so large is that it does not get a lot of lubrication so the bearing loads are purposely low. The lower bearing, by comparison, is a ball bearing and enjoys a constant supply of lubricaton. 
You are wise to have sourced the correct hose. I have seen engines come in with the hose you mentioned and the hose is usually melted at the bypass cover nipple. Once melted that cylinder usually has a lean sneeze.


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## KillerKilgore (Apr 28, 2018)

Thanks for enlightening me on this.

I have a question. How do i reach the location the hose goes under the lower carb without removing the carb.

I was able to reach the top starboard barb by removing the wiring buss(?). Using a pair of long needle nose pliers, I was able to get to that one. There is also a nipple just a little closer to the carb and a little lower. Both of those connect to a "T" and then connect to a nipple under the bottom carb.

It looks like the air entrance cover can be removed to grant access. I'm going to try that and see what hapens.

I'll get a pic or two and post next time.

This is a new-to-me 1986 110hp Evinrude on a new-to-me 1986 Jason Fish & Ski 1570 boat.


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## KillerKilgore (Apr 28, 2018)

Well as usual I was wrong. LOL.

The hoses I was talking about did NOT go to a T.
There is a T there but those particular hoses do not connect to it the way I said they did. One does one does NOT. See pics. I'll edit post to add new pic as I replace hoses. In real time.

This is the hose after attached to nipple at top starboard side if cylinder behind the wire connections.



This is the connection under bottom carb. NO "T" anywhere just straight hose.



I think the 2 above pics are the ones Pappy way talking about lubeing the bearings.

This is the barb just in front of and below this first pic.
It connects to a "T" that goes to the carbs.



Here is the "T"




Here are the connections at the carbs. the first pic has the new hoses attached. The 2nd only has the top hose attached.





Here is T in its home



Now for the port side.

Look what was behind the solenoid



It attached below the port side of the bottom carb.



That is it until I put carbs back on. Then there is 2 hoses that goes from the carb to the primer solenoid.

There was only 1 hoses out of 5 that wasn't cracked somewhere.

Now time to get fuel line and replace them while I've got carbs off and can get to everything.

Thanks for reading.

And Pappy, I searched youtube for a vid showing how to replace the hoses without taking off carbs. No luck. But did see a vid of a guy that replaces the hoses with the thin wall stuff I talked about. Read the comments and he had them blow off and get soft from the heat of the engine.

Glad I found the correct hose even if it did cost a little more than I wanted to pay.

Later


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## Pappy (Apr 28, 2018)

As I told you, the thin wall stuff will not make it due to heat. He learned his lesson, am happy you did not have to. 
You are going about it in the right way. Replace all fuel hoses while you are at it.


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## KillerKilgore (Apr 28, 2018)

Yes I did replace the fuel lines.

When I got the boat the VRO was disconnected.
The VRO pump leaked a little at first around the larger diameter circle where the 6 screws are. After 2 weeks I checked again and it stopped leaking.( That is when the wife got shot in the face by the recirculation hose. )

Now the pump is leaking at the top back and where the 6 screws are. Going to give it a few to let the gas swell the seals. If that doesn't fix it. I see at least a pump rebuilt kit in my future.


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## Pappy (Apr 29, 2018)

The VRO pump sounds like it will need a kit sooner than later. It is an excellent stand-alone fuel pump. If you continue to use the oil side of the pump then remove the oil tank and drain/clean it. You will be surprised at what will be in the bottom of it. You will also be impressed by the size of the filter!


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## KillerKilgore (Apr 29, 2018)

The VRO pump was disconnected at power, the alarm plug, and hose had been plugged off. So I have already removed the tank and hose. Haven't looked to see what was in there. But now I'm going to have to take a look.

I think I'm going to get fuel pump 438556.
Remove the current pulse pipe ( flame arrestor ) and insert a plug.
Remove the plug that is above the pulse pipe and install the new pump there.

I've looked and the intake manifold, starter, and air silencer are the same on my '86 110hp and a '88 110hp E110TXCCA. So the pump from the '88 model should work. Plus I've been searching other places and I've read that it will. Still haven't ordered any parts.

What do you think, Pappy?


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## Pappy (Apr 30, 2018)

Once again.....you are on the right track.


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## KillerKilgore (May 1, 2018)

Ordered parts. Will find out if everything works as planed.


Pappy, Goose Creek Symphony told me the same thing.


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