# 1952 johnson QD-13 10 HP fuel line diagram



## dirtymike (Jul 5, 2012)

I can only get the bottom cylinder to fire, swapped the coils out and no difference. The points are opening at.20. anybody have an idea what is the problem.


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## Pappy (Jul 5, 2012)

Condensor.........Physical plug wire cracked and grounding somewhere under the plate or corroded, coil primary wire touching crank or flywheel....bad spark plug (doubt it) Do a spark check. Should be able to fire across a 1/4" gap at the plug end of the wire at cranking speeds.


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## dirtymike (Jul 7, 2012)

Thanks pappy, sorry about the double post. This gettin old stuff aint fun. Ill try a new set of condensers.


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## dirtymike (Jul 14, 2012)

Tune up kit fixed the firing for both cylinders, found a burn spot on a condenser. Now it seems to be sucking water into the carb. There is a milky mixture running out of the carb after start up. It will not go to full throttle unless you close off the butterfly valve. Idle mixture screw has to be all the way off in order to get any power. I'm thinking the impeller is weak. Setting idle at 1.5 turns out and fast is set at 1 turn. Is there a carb kit for these 1952 Johnson 10hp QD-13 anywhere out there. Thanks for the help pappy.


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## Pappy (Jul 14, 2012)

Your settings seem a little rich to me. Bring your HS needle in to around 3/4 turn and see if that makes a diff in your idle needle setting. If that works then leave the idle there and reset the HS again. 
Your parts questions woud be better answered in the www.aomci.org forum. Seems like I was able to find a carb kit for mine not too long ago. Someone will likely have a head gasket for you as well. They are nice running engines! I have two. One I made out of three and the other is a gorgeous one that is in a box waiting to be built. I have all new rings, pistons, complete gasket set and ignition components for it. Should be a stellar engne once built and running.


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## dirtymike (Jul 17, 2012)

I'll try that pappy. I think i have an issue with the head gasket. Going to replace it to see if it gets rid of the milky liquid coming out of the carb. Pulled the impeller out and checked it for wear. All i could determine is the alum plate is wore a bit but still seals.


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## Pappy (Jul 17, 2012)

The milky liquid coming from the front of your carb is pretty normal. Will see it more on hot, humid days. The temp and pressure of the air drops so much as it passes the venturi that the moisture molecules are pulled out of the air and are mixed with the fuel and it turns into a milky solution. There is always a little pop back as the reeds are closing so you will get that. I see it every day on a myriad of engines that I work on.
If your aluminum housing is worn to the point that you can hook a fingernail in it...........replace it!


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## dirtymike (Jul 19, 2012)

I don't know what you mean by aluminum housing, are you referring to the magneto plate.where do i place my finger nail. Got the new head gasket today. Have to get it together before i can solve the card issue. Seems simple yet its operation eludes me. I think i just don't all the aspects for the operation of the carburetor.


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## dirtymike (Jul 19, 2012)

Well i got her to run on both cylinders today, buy it seems that when i accelerate the throttle plate does not want to open correctly and the high speed jet adjustment screw does not do anything. I have the idle speed jet set at a little over 1/2 turn. Any less it will spit through carburetor and die. To get it to accelerate when the advance is places in the fast position i have to close the idle jet all the way closed. At least i got the old girl running. Now for the search for a new carb kit or carb if anyone out there has for pointers or some adjustment and rebuild info please do. thanks[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rgmZIynA2lo[/youtube]www.youtube.com/watch?v=rgmZIynA2lo


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## Pappy (Jul 23, 2012)

Sounds like the nozzle well may not be properly sealed? 
High speed needle has a groove worn in it?
Float is fuel logged?
Float level too high?
High speed nozzle cracked?
The aluminum housing I was talking about is the water pump housing.


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## dirtymike (Jul 27, 2012)

Thanks for the clarification on the housing pappy. It is worn, but still works for now. Ordered a new one. I cant see any cracks in the HS nozzle and i have an extra jet. I have been having a little trouble finding the proper gasket material for the smaller ones. I have been cutting them out myself. I cant seem to find anyone who sells them. As for the float i have set it in various positions with no positive results. The float is not the original. It has been replaced. As of now it will idle like a champ. Seems to smoke quite a bit and the water in the running barrel sure fills up with oil on top. Running it at 24:1 ratio. Slow speed jet set at 1 turn High speed jet set at .75 turns. Going to run it again after i inspect the gaskets in the HS jet. Thanks for your pointers Pappy.


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## dirtymike (Jul 27, 2012)

Do you have any pros an con for a 1957 rude fastwin. Is this a motor that parts can be had easily. Is it a good motor or am i wasting my time.


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## Pappy (Jul 30, 2012)

EXCELLENT engine! 
Until recently I had four of these. Am down to one now and the ones I sold went like hotcakes. They have plenty of power and run extremely well.
Things to look for would be wear on the throttle roller. Find one that doesnt have a severe groove in it and you have found an engine with lower hours. 
If you can find one that hasn't had the coils replaced and has the old (cracked in a million places) coils so much the better. That way you know some idiot hasn't run the engine on 50:1. 
Actually I have two........still have a '54 15hp that runs like a watch as well as my '57 18hp.


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## dirtymike (Aug 2, 2012)

well it turns out your advise came in handy. this thing was a junk pile. I am now going with the qd-15 and aqd-16. both run fine and i got them for a song. These seem to be a little easier to work on. I can still find gasket and parts.Got one running like a singer. The other runs but has a air leak where the case splits at the crank. Guess ill be getting a service manual to find out the procedure to replace it.


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