# 1980 16' Sea Nymph Traveler-Rebirth of Tin 2



## Nussy (Dec 7, 2009)

Well, this site gave me the sickness :LOL2: . Considering I finished my winter project boat in early November, I decided I had so much fun doing it I'd take on another project to keep me occupied for the cold Wisconsin Winter, and try to sell it in the spring. This one will be a bit more intense than the last. Hopefully, I'm not getting in over my head. I decided to call this post "Re-birth of Tin 2" since the boat is the same model as one CrappieReaper re-did about a year ago. 


Here she is a 1980 17' Traveler by Sea Nymph. Picked this beauty up off Craigslist for $550. It has 25HP Chrysler(haven't run it yet, but was assured it ran. I'll have a mechanic friend take look at it), Garmin Fishfinder, electric anchor mate, and a 36 lb Minn Kota Transom Mount Trolling Motor. I thought I couldn't go wrong for that price. What do you think? 















The previous owner has started to rebuild it but never came close to finishing it. He had pretty much everything already purchase that came with it. New seats and extra pedistals. Also threw in some odds and ends pictured below and a bunch of extra carpet and treated plywood. 



At this point, I'm on the fence about what to do. The previous owner had replaced the front deck and the mid deck with treated plywood and the ugly green carpeting. I'm considering replacing this for a few reasons. 1. The fact that he used treated wood 2. The carpet is cheap and ugly.....but I have enough extra carpet to finish the boat currently. 3. If I replace the deck I could take out some of the foam and put in some bow storage compartments. 

The rear under deck(below raised deck) should probably be replaced but that means pulling out all the aluminum in the rear of the boat. The transom seams OK but, but most of it is covered with aluminum so I can't verify the whole thing is structurally sound. 

I'm told the boat does leak a little. I'll probaly steelflex the bottom to try to solve this problem after going through and checking the rivets(another reason why I might remove the decks). I was also thinking about Brazing the seams with Alumiweld, Durafix, or HTS-2000. I've never done it before but I thought it might be a good idea since there appears to be a lot of seams in this boat. What do you think of this idea?

The trailer really need some work. Wiring and lights work but it's really rusted and has old wiring just hanging off of it on the ground(I thought this was weird). I figured I'd just grind off the rust and hit it with some rustoleum. Also redo to bunks. 



Feel free to provide your suggestions!!!!


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## Nussy (Dec 7, 2009)

Guys, looking for your thoughts on the livewell as well. The livewell is under the driver's seat. I believe nothing is connected and is doesn't work. I'm not sure that I like the placement of it since it's hard to access because the seat will hit the steering wheel. Also I'm trying to figure out what the whole in the side of the boat it for. Was it for an overflow, a pumped out drain, or an intake? I haven't had it in the water so I"m not sure where the waterline is on the boat. It looks like the previous owner had simply plugged it up.







Any suggestions?


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## Anonymous (Dec 7, 2009)

That is an absolutely wonderful platform.

I can't wait to see how the boat turns out ! 

I only wish to find such a deal when i'm searching.


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## danmyersmn (Dec 7, 2009)

That Robbie Guy said:


> That is an absolutely wonderful platform.
> 
> I can't wait to see how the boat turns out !
> 
> I only wish to find such a deal when i'm searching.



That hole is an overflow. It's interesting that it is on the same side as the spraybar. I would take a look at how easy it would be to move the spraybar. If it could be done easy enough I would move it to the otherside to allow freshwater to flow across the livewell before going out the overflow.

Ditch the wood and green carpet. Replace it with something you prefer or you will always wish you did.

Do not braze the seams with alumiweld/HTS-2000. First the seams are going to have a sealant material pressed into them from manufacture. You will burn that out and cause more problems then your hoping to fix. Second, after doing this task for thirty minutes or so your going to wonder what you where thinking and why you started doing it. :mrgreen: If your concerned about the seams and you don't think that Steel-flex is going to be enough of a sealant then use gluv-it on the inside. It will be cheaper and easier in the end and give you a better seal then trying to flow HTS2000 into the seam.


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## Nussy (Dec 7, 2009)

danmyersmn said:


> That Robbie Guy said:
> 
> 
> > That is an absolutely wonderful platform.
> ...



Thaks Dan, I looked at Gluvit online yesterday, It's not cheap stuff. What do you think about bedliner on the inside. Most of it will be covered by the wood decks and the aluminum boxes, but i thought it might seal it up well, just in case the Steelflex didn't seal everything.


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## jasper60103 (Dec 7, 2009)

Looks like a nice project. I like the mod-v hull.

I know what you mean about long winters. Originally from Chicago
I know crappy weather, but Minnesota gets
about 6 months of winter and winter like weather.
Its really hard if you're not into winter sports/activities.
I watch craigslist a lot and been tempted to pickup a 2nd motor to tinker with, but
keep talking myself out of it.

Good luck with your project. I'm sure it will be fun.


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## Nussy (Dec 7, 2009)

jasper60103 said:


> Looks like a nice project. I like the mod-v hull.
> 
> I know what you mean about long winters. Originally from Chicago
> I know crappy weather, but Minnesota gets
> ...



I know what you mean about talking yourself out of it. The guy posted this boat over a month ago without any pics and a bad add. I had him send me pics and after seeing it, I thought it was a good deal for the $700 he listed it fo. I went to look at it twice. I scared myself out of it last weekend and told the guy I just had a bad feeling about it and left. After thinking about it all week I was able to get him down to $550 yesterday and pulled the trigger. Figured I could part it out for that and get my money back. It helped seeing CrappieReaper's build on this Forum. It gave me the confidence that I could turn this into a nice rig.


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## danmyersmn (Dec 7, 2009)

I have read a few different builds that people have tried bedliner and it didn't stop the leaks. I wouldn't use it myself. In fact, I used some of the plasti-kote rattle can bedliner in a hatch I was making in my build. The longer I looked at it the more I realized it wasn't a good idea. I just didn't like the stuff. I sanded it all off after looking at it for too long. 

I didn't have any leaks in my rig to worry about but I wanted to try and do a preventative sealer. I spent a bunch of time researching penetrating epoxies (this is what gluv-it is). In the research I came up with my own plan. I contacted 3M and they stated that I could thin 5200 with Xylene. So I did. I thinned it out and used the 5200 as a brush on sealer. It worked pretty well. In the end I spent a bit more then I would of just going with gluv-it in the first place. I had to buy a gallon of Xylene and that was expensive!

I think that everything has been tested enough to say that you should use steel flex on the outside, gluv-it on the inside and everything else is just sub-par to the two. I am the first person to give another option a try and see how it turns out; however, if you want to use something that works instead of pioneering something then we know what those are. 

If it was mine I would gluv-it the inside and skip the steel-flex. I change my mind too many times on paint color to order the steel-flex before I am ready to put it on. #-o


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## Nussy (Dec 7, 2009)

danmyersmn said:


> I have read a few different builds that people have tried bedliner and it didn't stop the leaks. I wouldn't use it myself. In fact, I used some of the plasti-kote rattle can bedliner in a hatch I was making in my build. The longer I looked at it the more I realized it wasn't a good idea. I just didn't like the stuff. I sanded it all off after looking at it for too long.
> 
> I didn't have any leaks in my rig to worry about but I wanted to try and do a preventative sealer. I spent a bunch of time researching penetrating epoxies (this is what gluv-it is). In the research I came up with my own plan. I contacted 3M and they stated that I could thin 5200 with Xylene. So I did. I thinned it out and used the 5200 as a brush on sealer. It worked pretty well. In the end I spent a bit more then I would of just going with gluv-it in the first place. I had to buy a gallon of Xylene and that was expensive!
> 
> ...



Thanks for the insight. Your paint job definitely looks awesome. Something you won't get with Steelflex. I might have to look a bit more at the Gluv-it.


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## Loggerhead Mike (Dec 7, 2009)

where is it leaking from? may be cheaper to have somebody weld the leak


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## Nussy (Dec 7, 2009)

Loggerhead Mike said:


> where is it leaking from? may be cheaper to have somebody weld the leak



Not sure yet, have to tear a few things apart and leak test it to find out where the leaks are. Just picked it up last night.


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## danmyersmn (Dec 7, 2009)

Nussy said:


> Loggerhead Mike said:
> 
> 
> > where is it leaking from? may be cheaper to have somebody weld the leak
> ...




Well while your waiting on deciding what all to do with it you could put it back on craig's list for $1000.00


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## Nussy (Dec 8, 2009)

danmyersmn said:


> Nussy said:
> 
> 
> > Loggerhead Mike said:
> ...



That's not a bad idea...... but then what am I going to do with myself all winter...icefish?


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## dyeguy1212 (Dec 8, 2009)

cool boat

whats the bottom width?


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## Nussy (Dec 8, 2009)

dyeguy1212 said:


> cool boat
> 
> whats the bottom width?



It's about 50" at the stern.


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## Nussy (Dec 10, 2009)

Wow, the guy told me it was a 25 HP motor. He said it really went for a 25. It didn't have any stickers, so I didn't question him. Doing some research I found out it's actually a 45 HP motor. No wonder it was so quick... :LOL2: 

By chance does anyone out there have a manual for a Chrysler 457H9K? 

Tried to hook up the gas line and it leaked like crazy. There's no way this motor has been ran in the last year or two. 

Ordered a new line should be here today. Hit the key and it turns over. Hopefully, I'll be able to get it started. Probably should ditch the old gas and put some new stuff in. he told me the mixture was 25:1 can anyone out there verify this? I'm not a motor guy so any suggestions to get it running is appreciated. I don't want to start my rebuild until I know the motor runs. If it doesn't I might convert it to a Tiller.


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## Nussy (Dec 12, 2009)

Was able to gain some ground today. Got it pretty well stripped down. Spent about 3 hours removing the floatation foam. Had to rip it out in order to remove to rotten floor in the back of the boat. Also was finally able to get at the transom. Hit with a putty knife and it disintegrated....almost as bad as the floor. I guess I'll be replacing that too. 



Also was able to remove pretty much all of the wiring the livewell pump and bilge pump. Pulled off most of the side panels and compartments. removed the fish finder, tranducer and all the batteries. Here's some pics.











I've been avoiding looking at the engine but I better make sure it runs. Got the fuel line yesterday, just need to get some new fuel and some oil and give it go.


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## Nussy (Dec 14, 2009)

Anybody have any recommendations on what type of wood I should use to re-build the transom?


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## Brine (Dec 14, 2009)

Nussy said:


> Anybody have any recommendations on what type of wood I should use to re-build the transom?



Exterior grade ply with epoxy/sealer applied. Won't have to worry about it for another 20+ years probably.


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## Ram (Dec 14, 2009)

I used an epoxy resin sealer from https://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html on all the plywood for the decking in my boat and that stuff is awesome. It gets rock hard and seems like it will last for 100 years! Definately the way to go when waterproofing wood!


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## Nussy (Dec 14, 2009)

Brine said:


> Nussy said:
> 
> 
> > Anybody have any recommendations on what type of wood I should use to re-build the transom?
> ...



By exterior grade, do you mean "treated"? If so I thought treated was bad for use on boat? Do you think you could just screw a couple sheets together to get to the necessary thickness? Then cover with the epoxy?


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## Brine (Dec 14, 2009)

Nussy said:


> By exterior grade, do you mean "treated"? If so I thought treated was bad for use on boat? Do you think you could just screw a couple sheets together to get to the necessary thickness? Then cover with the epoxy?



No, not treated. Exterior grade plywood uses waterproof glue. Yes, I think you could screw the sheets together and then epoxy them together. The edges, and anywhere you drill a hole seem to be the post prone to water absorption.


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## Nussy (Dec 14, 2009)

Brine said:


> Nussy said:
> 
> 
> > By exterior grade, do you mean "treated"? If so I thought treated was bad for use on boat? Do you think you could just screw a couple sheets together to get to the necessary thickness? Then cover with the epoxy?
> ...



OK thanks for the clarification.


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## Rat (Dec 14, 2009)

When laminating your transom pieces use epoxy glue for the laminations, IOW glue the pieces together with epoxy glue (epoxy thickened with wood flour). You can use screws to hold it together temporarily, or you can just use weights; I use car/boat batteries. Once the epoxy sets you don't need the screws, just take them out and fill the holes and seal all edges as noted above.


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## Nussy (Dec 14, 2009)

One question. Would the exterior plywood be better than a solid 2x12?


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## Nussy (Dec 18, 2009)

I bought this boat without running the motor which I knew I should not have done, but I thought it was a great deal even if the motor didn't work, so it didn't matter at the time. I'm now at a point where I need to know if the motor works so I spent some time trying to get the motor to work last night. Ugh! The gas line leaked so I ordered a new one last week. The gas line I ordered came and the bulb was installed backwards so it wouldn't pump gas up to the engine. Didn't have the hose clamps to fix it so I tried to use the old line to get it running. Took a look at the plugs and they seamed to be clean. Used new gas. Motor turns over but just won't fire up. I can't really tell if it's getting gas. Should I try spraying some starter fluid in the carb? 

I'm not sure what to try next. I don't know engines very well, so I might have to take to a repair shop. 

Any ideas on where to start?


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## Rodnocker (Dec 18, 2009)

I don't know a lot about outboard motors, but I've worked on quite a few small engines. First thing I would do is make sure you have spark. Pull the spark plug wire and put it close, but not quite touching, the motor block (exposed metal area of the motor). Try to crank the motor and see if you have a spark jump from the plug wire to the motor. If you have spark, then put that back on the spark plug. 

I'm guessing this is a 2 stroke motor?
I would not use starter fluid on a 2 stroke as there is no lubrication. Use some of your mixed fuel in a spray bottle and just spray a couple of mists into the carb and try cranking.


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## Rat (Dec 18, 2009)

Nussy said:


> One question. Would the exterior plywood be better than a solid 2x12?



Yes, laminations are stronger than a solid piece of wood.


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## Brine (Dec 18, 2009)

and there are quite a few people here with outboard experience....I'm not one of them tho.

Im guessing you will get you some sound advice on what to do next prior to you having to take it to someone.


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## Rat (Dec 18, 2009)

Nussy said:


> I bought this boat without running the motor which I knew I should not have done, but I thought it was a great deal even if the motor didn't work, so it didn't matter at the time. I'm now at a point where I need to know if the motor works so I spent some time trying to get the motor to work last night. Ugh! The gas line leaked so I ordered a new one last week. The gas line I ordered came and the bulb was installed backwards so it wouldn't pump gas up to the engine. Didn't have the hose clamps to fix it so I tried to use the old line to get it running. Took a look at the plugs and they seamed to be clean. Used new gas. Motor turns over but just won't fire up. I can't really tell if it's getting gas. Should I try spraying some starter fluid in the carb?
> 
> I'm not sure what to try next. I don't know engines very well, so I might have to take to a repair shop.
> 
> Any ideas on where to start?



Get a repair manual for your motor.

The first thing I would do is a compression test, you want them to be within 10% of each other and around 90 PSI; although I have an older model 5 HP that only has about 70 PSI and she runs fine. The compression test will tell you if it is even worth putting money into.

if it passes the compression test then check for spark with a spark tester. If it fails you will need to rebuild the ignition system, proly take about 3 hours, if it passes move to the fuel system.

At the minimum I would rebuild the carb, and replace the fuel lines, and then do a link and sync. 

Replace the water pump impeller.

Put new lower unit lube. 

You can borrow the compression tester and spark tester from your local autoparts store and, if you need to change the ignition system, you will need a strap wrench to remove the flywheel, which you can also borrow from the same place. 

If you need to replace the ignition system, rebuild the carb, install a new impeller and add new lower unit oil; you can proly do all this for less than $200 and a full day of your time. 

I did all this to my engine for the first time and it only required about 6 hours and a minimum of parts, all available online; and I had never even changed a sparkplug in a boat motor before. So, if I can do it, you can do it!


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## cubanredneck (Dec 18, 2009)

Rodnocker said:


> I don't know a lot about outboard motors, but I've worked on quite a few small engines. First thing I would do is make sure you have spark. Pull the spark plug wire and put it close, but not quite touching, the motor block (exposed metal area of the motor). Try to crank the motor and see if you have a spark jump from the plug wire to the motor. If you have spark, then put that back on the spark plug.
> 
> I'm guessing this is a 2 stroke motor?
> I would not use starter fluid on a 2 stroke as there is no lubrication. Use some of your mixed fuel in a spray bottle and just spray a couple of mists into the carb and try cranking.




you can use starting fluid with top end lubrication in it go to NAPA they have it. I would check for spark, compression, and fuel if all check out it should crank


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## Nussy (Dec 19, 2009)

Well today was a great day. After everything went wrong the other night trying to get it started, today was all progress. I was able to fix the gas line and get it hooked up so it pushed the gas the correct direction. After talking to a co-worker he suggested to make sure the battery was fully charged, otherwise there may not be enough power to generate a spark. When I pulled the battery I notice the guy had a deep cycle battery hooked up. I switched it out with a regular battery, changed the plugs and it started up. Ran a little rough but came around. Got it winterized and changed the lower unit fluid. It came out black like oil. Is that normal? The stuff I changed it with was more of a yellow color. Does it come in different colors, from different manufacturers? 

I had a clamshell on the motor with a hose running and there was no water stream spitting out anywhere and I couldn't find a spot where it should come out of. Does anyone know if that's just the way a 1979 Chrysler 45 HP works? It had me a little concerned. Thought maybe the impeller was shot. 

I removed the motor, Throttle and Ignition Switch. Then I moved on to tearing out the transom. Pulled all the screws and removed a metal cover. It was totally dust!!! Glad I decided to take that apart. Here's what's left of it.



Then I moved on to removing the console and and one other compartment. I pretty much have everything stripped down at this point. Here's a couple pics.





Hopefully tomorrow, I'll get it power washed, and leak tested, and start work on the new transom. Got the Steeflex ordered. Decided to go with the regular version in Gray this time around. Thinking Green for the upper half since the guy I bought it from had 2 brand new green seats, and to camo seats on the pedistals. 

My wife is being induced Monday.... So a new baby might put the boat on the back burner for a little while.....for good reason. Better get a lot done tomorrow.


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## Nussy (Dec 19, 2009)

Couple Questions. 

1. I was thinking about using Fiberglass resin for the transom since I can't find any decent epoxy locally. Any thoughts? 
2. I have a few hole in the console and some of the top aluminum pieces. I plan to paint everything and thought about filling them. I'm looking for suggestions on what to use to fill them. The biggest hole is about the size of a nickel, but most are screw holes. I thought about using Bondo(the autobody stuff) but I've never worked with it. Anybody have any suggestions?


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## Rat (Dec 19, 2009)

Nussy said:


> Couple Questions.
> 
> 1. I was thinking about using Fiberglass resin for the transom since I can't find any decent epoxy locally. Any thoughts?
> 2. I have a few hole in the console and some of the top aluminum pieces. I plan to paint everything and thought about filling them. I'm looking for suggestions on what to use to fill them. The biggest hole is about the size of a nickel, but most are screw holes. I thought about using Bondo(the autobody stuff) but I've never worked with it. Anybody have any suggestions?



Use good Epoxy, if you can't find it locally buy it Here: (3 Quart Kit). This is the link for the 3 quart kit for < $50, proly all you need. I am not sure what you mean by "fiberglass epoxy" since fiberglass if the matt and epoxy (or Polyester {Bondo}, or vinylester) is the resin. 

For filling the holes I would use a filler rod like HTS 2000 or similar, especially if you want them to be flush; otherwise you could use pop rivets. I wouldn't use any type of Resin filler unless you can get a backing under the hole, by the time you sand it flush it will be weak. You may be able to flute the holes and use filler, I have always wanted to try this but never have, and I don't know anyone who has either.


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## Nussy (Dec 27, 2009)

Well, got a little done this weekend. Cut and glued the transom, then gave it a coat of poly. Probably throw a second coat on later today.



Removed the transom supports from the boat, so I could fit the new transom it. Removed the stickers, glue, etc on a butch of the boat. Wire brushed the transom. There was some pitting in it that I attribute to the transom having been treated plywood. Went over that with some JB Weld, just to fill in the hole and try tp prevent it from getting worse. 



There was a panel on the bow that had a piece of carpet in it. Not sure why but I hated the way it looked. Decided to remove it and fill in all the holes with Bondo. Will sand it all smoot and paint it. Hopefully it turns out OK. If not, I can always put the carpet piece back in. 




Once I get the transom back in. I'll get the boat off the trailer and flipped so I can sand, steelflex, and paint it. Trying to decide whether to sand, repaint, and reboard the trailer before painting the boat or after completed. Leaning toward doing that next so that I don't have to take the boat of the trailer again.


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## JBoze (Dec 30, 2009)

Looking forward to seeing this one completed.


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## Waterwings (Dec 30, 2009)

JBoze said:


> Looking forward to seeing this one completed.




Ditto on that! Gonna be a nice rig!


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## Doug (Dec 30, 2009)

Looks like this one is coming along well. Keep charging.


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## Nussy (Dec 31, 2009)

Well the heater went out in the garage and won't be fixed until tomorrow so I decided to start working on the trailer. Spent about 5-6 hours with a grinder and a wire wheel trying to remove all the paint and rust. For those of you looking to take on this project my only advice is to get an aggressive wound strand cup brush and wound strand wheel. It will save you a lot of time from the single strand brushes. The wheel seemed to work better but you need to cup brush to get into some tight areas. 



The plan for today is to get everything sanded. Hopefully including the boat. That way I can get all the dust out and focus on painting once I get heat back tomorrow. It's only supposed to be 15 degrees today so hopefully the garage will stay tolerable. The goal is to get the trailer primed and painted by the end of the weekend. Using Rustoleum Clean Metal Primer and Rustoleum Paint. 

If things go well I might even get the etching primer and a coat a regular primer on the boat.


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## Nussy (Jan 3, 2010)

Been busy the last couple days. Yesterday I got the transom installed then hit the inside and outside of the boat with a wire wheel. Done grinding.....thank god. I think I have about 10-12 hours grinding the boat and trailer with a wire wheel. I forgot pics of the transom, but I'll get some once I get the boat flipped back over. I decided to go with Stainless Bolts over the Rivets. Seemes to work well. Just it them with 5200 when I installed them. 




Today I was able to get a spray coat of etching primer on the upper half of the boat where I plan to paint. 



Then I primed the trailer. Used Rustoleum Clean Metal.....and I hate it. If I had to do it over it would be all spray cans.. Hopefully the paint goes on better than the primer did. 



After that I decided to get the Steelflex on the bottom half of the boat. I definitely learned some things this time around with the steelflex. This time I used the regular version and put it on a lot thinner. That was definitely the way to go. I will probably put a second coat on some of the light spots. It took 10 foam rollers to apply it, because the stuff is so thick. But I didn't get the sagging on the sides that I had on my last build. That's one benefit of the regular Steelflex over the 2000....you can put on multiple coats. Thanks Nick Jones for your posts on using multiple thin coats!!! I also cranked up the heater in the garage to 80 so this stuff should cure a bit faster. I have plenty leftover for a complete second coat if needed.


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## dyeguy1212 (Jan 3, 2010)

Man that steelflex sure looks good...


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## danmyersmn (Jan 4, 2010)

what did you decide to paint the rest of the boat with?


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## Nussy (Jan 4, 2010)

danmyersmn said:


> what did you decide to paint the rest of the boat with?



Following you lead buddy. Hunter green Rustoleum(because the new seats that came with the boat are green). I plan to try rolling it on this time with a foam roller. If I remember correctly that's what you did...right? Do you think the thinning was necessary? 


Also did you put it right over the Etching Primer? I thought about putting the Rustoleum Clean Metal Primer over the etching primer, but it went on my trailer horribly. Now since the etching primer is green I'm thinking the smart thing to do is put the pain right over the etching primer so if it scratches it will be green underneath instead of gray. The other thought is to go with their regular primer instead of the clean metal stuff. 

The other thing I'm questioning in my mind is what to paint on the inside. The interior has all been sanded clean, but not all the aluminum compartments, that I've pulled out. 

Do I: 

1. Leave the inside of the compartments alone with the brushed aluminum look from sanding? This might be brighter in the closed compartments. 
2. Paint everthing hunter green? 
3. Paint everthing gray? This might now show the scratches as bad as the green. 

Any thoughts?


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## danmyersmn (Jan 4, 2010)

I rolled mine on with the foam rollers. I would use the same technique again too. I also did thin mine 10%. I don't know that it is needed. The one compartment that I painted gray I didn't thin and it worked out fine. I think you will be fine either way.

I went right over the primer. The primer bites into the metal and the paint bites into the primer. No build up is needed. If you scratch it then your going straight through to the aluminum anyway so skip the extra step.

If you use the Rustoleum Pro. spray bomb to paint inside the compartments it will be easy enough to touch up if you ever want too. With my build I used the spray bomb for the floor and all the areas inside the hatches that you could see but would not have much abuse. I didn't take mine down to bear metal inside the areas either, I gave it a good cleaning and a light scuff and called it good enough. 

I made a HUGE mistake though!! While I have been packing for my move I threw away all 3 cans of paint. I had more then 1/2 gallon of the Tan and Green and white from the trailer and 3/4 gallon of brush on primer . OOOPS!!  I may not of tossed it but I haven't been able to find it and my house has been torn up and down and I don't recall seeing it anywhere.


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## Nussy (Jan 4, 2010)

danmyersmn said:


> I rolled mine on with the foam rollers. I would use the same technique again too. I also did thin mine 10%. I don't know that it is needed. The one compartment that I painted gray I didn't thin and it worked out fine. I think you will be fine either way.
> 
> I went right over the primer. The primer bites into the metal and the paint bites into the primer. No build up is needed. If you scratch it then your going straight through to the aluminum anyway so skip the extra step.
> 
> ...


Look on the bright side. At least it wasn't expensive stuff like Interlux  .....and you're moving to a place where the new boat of yours can be used year round. :LOL2:


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## Nick Jones (Jan 5, 2010)

"Thanks Nick Jones for your posts on using multiple thin coats!!!" 

no problem man! now if i could just finish mine. Bought a house during the holidays so i have had no time. the boat looks great cant wait to see it. After reading a few other post, it appears you can paint over the steelflex as well.


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## Nussy (Jan 7, 2010)

When I flipped to boat before painting I noticed there i was a crack in it that was covered in some kind of silicone. Looks like they ran into something. I decided to try to braze it with some Alumiweld. Seemed to work pretty well. Then made sure to put the Steelflex on Extra thick in that area.


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## Nussy (Jan 7, 2010)

Also got the trailer painted. I'll probably have give it another quote....at least in certain areas. Just used Rustoleum Enamel and a foam brush. If I had to do it again, I'd probably spray can it since there is a lot of hard to reach areas, and I think it would look a little better. As it is, it looks 100% better than the rusted green. I'll have to take the wheels off and repaint those as well.





Hoping to get another coat of paint on the trailer and another coat of Steeflex on the sides of the boat. Then get it back on the trailer before the Packers beat the Cardinals on Sunday [-o<


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## Nussy (Jan 16, 2010)

Well I got the trailer painted and new carpeted bunks on. Put the boat back on the trailer. I decided not to paint the upper half of the boat yet since I have a lot of other work and figured I'd scratch it up so saving the outside painting for a while.


Also here's a picture of the replaced transom. That was a lot more work than expected. Still have to wire wheel a few pieces in the back to clean it up.


Then I got the floors cut out and dry fit a few pieces back in. Tried using a templated but decided to just over cut it a hair oversized and then trim where needed. That seamed to work OK. I'll probably cut the bow hatches in tomorrow.


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## danmyersmn (Jan 17, 2010)

You are going to have this one done in time to start a third before spring. :lol:


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## Nussy (Jan 17, 2010)

danmyersmn said:


> You are going to have this one done in time to start a third before spring. :lol:



Not sure about that one....don't have room in garage and can't afford a divorce lawyer :LOL2: 

I'm guessing, I'm about half done. With all the aluminum compartments there's lots left to strip and paint. Can't decides what to paint and what not too. Then rewire, some floatation foam, carpet, more wood, console, livewell,and lots of odds and ends. I'm just hoping to have it done by spring walleye fishing. It would make a great river rig.


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## Nussy (Jan 18, 2010)

So I'm wonder what to protect the wood with. On my last build I used Thompson's water seal to seal the wood before carpeting. I have one piece in the rear of the boat that won't be carpeted and I was thinking about painting the wood or using bedliner or non-slip paint. There will be storage in part as well as gas tanks and batteries. Any suggestions?


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## Nussy (Jan 23, 2010)

Grinding, Grinding, Grinding. If I never see another grinder with a wire wheel........ it will be too soon. Spent 5 hours wheeling all the inside aluminum. Hopefully I'll get that finished tomorrow and with any luck start priming. Also got the the console fixed up and removed the old rotten wood. Secured the wheel right to the aluminum so there's nothing to rot anymore.


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## dyeguy1212 (Jan 23, 2010)

Ahhh the fun part...



pics or it didn't happen! 8)


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## Nussy (Jan 29, 2010)

Well finally starting to make some visual progress. I finished grinding everything down. Got the drain tubes installed, thanks to a nice local boat dealer that let me borrow their tool. Boy does that make difference. It took about 20 minutes to do both of them and they look fantastic. 

Also got the whole boat primed with self etching primer. Here's some pics.

Pink foam between the ribs



Here's my high tech hanging system and spray booth



Etch close up.


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## Brine (Jan 29, 2010)

nice work.

I'm envisioning someone accidentally opening the gargage door. [-X


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## dyeguy1212 (Jan 29, 2010)

looking goooood


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## Nussy (Jan 30, 2010)

Brine said:


> nice work.
> 
> I'm envisioning someone accidentally opening the gargage door. [-X




I worried about the same thing.....but I was smart enough to unplug it...


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## Nussy (Jan 30, 2010)

Well got ther first coat of paint on it. Decided to try to roll and tip method....but as it turned out, no tipping was necessary. Just used Rustoleum Enamel and a 4" foam roller. Worked out better than expected. You would never know if was rolled vs sprayed. I'll get a second coat on tomorrow. It's not as bright of a green as this picture shows. It's actually more of a Hunter Green


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## Nick Jones (Jan 30, 2010)

guess i am going to have to hurry if i want to finish my second one before you. lol! looks good man.


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## 270Handiman (Jan 30, 2010)

Looking great!

What brand of self-etching primer did you use?

270


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## Nussy (Jan 31, 2010)

I used Rustoleum Self Etching primer. You can get it at Wal-Mart in the automotive section. I needed 5-6 cans to to the whole boat


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## Nussy (Jan 31, 2010)

Well got a second coat of paint on. Also decided to paint the outside today instead of down the road. Here's a few pics. The console pic best represents what the color actually looks like as the flash on a few pics made things look brighter than they are. Really glad I decided to roll it on rather than spray can it.


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## wasilvers (Feb 3, 2010)

Read your build info a few times, then today I look and see you are just up the highway from me - kind of funny. I hope to find time to do my Sea Nypmh boat this year too. Maybe not as much as you with paiting the bottom, I like the look of raw aluminum, but redoing the decking/wiring and some mods on the layout. 

Good luck and I'll keep an eye on your build!

Will (from Milwaukee area)


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## Nussy (Feb 3, 2010)

wasilvers said:


> Read your build info a few times, then today I look and see you are just up the highway from me - kind of funny. I hope to find time to do my Sea Nypmh boat this year too. Maybe not as much as you with paiting the bottom, I like the look of raw aluminum, but redoing the decking/wiring and some mods on the layout.
> 
> Good luck and I'll keep an eye on your build!
> 
> Will (from Milwaukee area)



Welcome fellow Cheesehead!(well it look like you're a transplant). You're the first other guy I've seen from WI. Kind of funny as I write this I'm actually sitting in my hotel in Dallas, TX, and one of my engineers lives in Sussex. Small world. 

I'm with you on the Aluminum look but this boat is 30 years old and was showing it's age. Once I sanded it down I thought about leaving the inside raw aluminum with the brushed look but I wanted the Steelflex on the outside to make sure it was sealed up tight. Surprisingly enough the painting didn't take long at all and didn't cost but maybe $10 extra to paint everything. Can't wait to get back home and start putting everything back together. 

P.S. Groundhog saw his shadow so 6 more weeks of winter. Plenty of time to get your Sea Nymph done before the spring walleye run!!!!!


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## wasilvers (Feb 4, 2010)

Nussy said:


> Plenty of time to get your Sea Nymph done before the spring walleye run!!!!!



Yeah - I know once i get started I will not stop, but it's tax season - tonight I worked till 9. Everyone at home was already asleep when I got here.  

So to paint, you brush it with a wire brush, hit it with a rough sanding(?), rustoleum etching primer, then rustoleum enamel? That's it? Seems ok. 

How did you flip your boat over? I think i could do most of the work, but painting is a bit intmidating, but I have to paint the console (mine is the same design as yours) Funny, I have no problems tearing into an engine, but don't want to paint HA!


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## Nussy (Feb 4, 2010)

Actually I just wire wheeled it, primed it with the etching primer(spray can) and rolled on the paint. I was really surprised how well it turned out. They call it the roll and tip method, but I didn't even have to tip it. Tipping you just use a dry brush to take out the air bubbles of rolling it on. With that paint the air bubbles just popped and it looks as good if not better than the boat I had previously sprayed.....and much less mess. For me I pulled the console but you could do it in the boat before you put the floor in or carpet. Stay tuned. I'm hoping to have the center floor in and console by the end of the weekend.


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## Nussy (Feb 8, 2010)

This thing is finally starting to look like a boat. This weekend I was able to get the rear floor in and all the compartments and framing for the rear deck. I ran into a little problem in that I think the original floor was less than the 3/4" wood I'm using.....so thing didn't match up quite right. I think I've solved that for now. All wood has been treated with 2 coats of water sealer. 




I also carpeted and installed the center floor section and put the console back in. 



In the front I was able to get my aluminum bracing in which will be support for my hatches. All of the framing is 2"x2"x1/8" Angle. That size is probably overkill. I think I could have gotten away with thinner stuff(but I'm not sure they make it). I went with 2" so that I have my hatches supported by at least an inch



What I plan to so is screw from the underside to attach the deck. You'll see the holes I predrilled so that I'm able to do this. 



And the front deck. I thought long and hard about how to layout my hatches. In the end this is what I ended up with. I'm not too crazy about the supporting running through the center of the hatch but I wanted to avoid a situation where two hatched hit each other. I also wanted be able to stand on the floor rather than a hatch in a seated position. Last and most importantly I wanted to give as much structural support for the seat base. I'm a big guy and I like to lean on my seat rather than sit on it. I plan to put a piece of sheet aluminum under the deck to screw the base through as well. There will be another small section to fill in the front V. I had to build it seperately because the bottom of the boat comes up past the deck so it will have a slight tilt. It will be enclosed for storage anyway.


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## 270Handiman (Feb 8, 2010)

Man that's starting to look good! That green paint has some POP to it!

270


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## Nussy (Feb 8, 2010)

270Handiman said:


> Man that's starting to look good! That green paint has some POP to it!
> 
> 270



Yeah, it's not as bright as some of the pictures make it look. I'm working in my garage with a crappy camera and I've had to adjust the brightness on many of the pic so you could see them. It's actually hunter green. Once I get it finished, I'll get some outside pics in better light.


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## dyeguy1212 (Feb 8, 2010)

In the mean time, snap a few more... you know what a sucker I am for pics.. :wink:


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## MeanMouth (Feb 9, 2010)

Lookin' good! I'm certainly keeping an eye on your project, keep up the great work!


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## Nussy (Feb 14, 2010)

I can see light at the end of the tunnel.....I was able to get a bit more done this weekend. Yesterday I put some foam in the front under the deck(forgot pictures). Ended up using great stuff for big gaps. 4 cans and ran out. I'll have to get 8-10 more cans for floatation in the rear. It seamed to work OK. I thought it would expand more than it did...but my garage was only at 50 degrees which may have something to do with it. 

I installed the side compartments in the bow area mounted the seat base, and screwed down the floor. I also carpeted the front hatches. I made the mistake of not carpeting them in the same direction/grain as I did the bow so one hatch look ligher than the rest of the bow area. I have a feeling that if I have carpet remaining I'll be redoing that hatch. I also installed the live well pump and ran the hose to the livewell and installed the fish finder. 

Today I was able to get the motor back on, install the throttle control, steering wheel, and the rear sheet metal. I decided to reroute the battery cable for the motor so that I could better weight distribute my batteries on each side of the boat. I will not have one in each rear side compartment. It will also allow me to keep my batteries away from the gas tanks. 

I'm a little concerned with the throttle cable. It is way too long. I looped it around like it was orginally but I really don't like the way it response when you put it in forward and reverse. Unfortuanately, I don't remember how it worked before I removed it.

Heres some pics. 







Items remaining: 
Wiring
Trolling Motor
Switch Panel
Lights
Rear Deck
Bow Side Compartments
Seats
Finish Livewell
Trailer Wiring
Trailer bearings
Wheels painted
Some sheet metal work to close in the reach storage area and between the seats....OK maybe there isn't light at the end of the tunnel


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## dyeguy1212 (Feb 14, 2010)

looking good!


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## jasper60103 (Feb 14, 2010)

I've been following your threads and you have done some very nice work.
So now the hard part, have you decided which rig you're gonna sell yet?
You appear to have a large garage so maybe you can keep them both?


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## dyeguy1212 (Feb 14, 2010)

Can you post some pics to give me a general idea of the size area the foam filled? I ended up buying some of the big gap stuff, and I'm going to put it in my flotation boxes near the transom.


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## Nussy (Feb 15, 2010)

dyeguy1212 said:


> Can you post some pics to give me a general idea of the size area the foam filled? I ended up buying some of the big gap stuff, and I'm going to put it in my flotation boxes near the transom.



The foam is under the bow deck so I can't get at it. I used 4 cans and I would say it was probably 3 cubic feet. I'm guessing it didn't expand as much because my garage and the foam was pretty cold. It's about 20 degrees here in WI(granted my garage was probably 40-50degrees) and I didn't really let things warm up before spraying the foam. For the rear I"m going to keep the foam inside and get my garage warmer before spraying it in.


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## Nussy (Feb 15, 2010)

jasper60103 said:


> I've been following your threads and you have done some very nice work.
> So now the hard part, have you decided which rig you're gonna sell yet?
> You appear to have a large garage so maybe you can keep them both?



Thanks Jasper!
While I have a pretty large garage, I have 3 boats and the wife isn't going to stand for keeping them all. The pontoon is a given to stay. I live on a small electric only lake so the the red Mirro is probably a better bet for now since I can remove the tiller motor pretty easily and it's smaller and lighter than the Sea Nymph. The only problem is it wouldn't be as good for bigger water like Lake Michigan which is only 1/2 mile away. I can borrow my dad's Tracker Tundra for big water so I think this build is going to be the one that goes.


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## nbaffaro (Feb 15, 2010)

You've done a good job on this boat. I hope you can sell it for more than you have in it!


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## Nussy (Feb 15, 2010)

nbaffaro said:


> You've done a good job on this boat. I hope you can sell it for more than you have in it!



ME TOO!!! [-o< 

It's amazing how fast the dollars add up.


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## eezerz (Feb 15, 2010)

Looks great! You do good work man.... =D>


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## RBuffordTJ (Feb 15, 2010)

Man your boat looks awesome!

Bufford in Orlando


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## Nussy (Feb 17, 2010)

Well I went to Metal Supermarket and got some aluminum today. It may not be the cheapest place to get stuff, but they cut it to my exact dimensions and price it by the sq ft, so you don't have any waste. It was all cut to size in a couple hours. The aluminum sheet is .063 and was $5/sq ft. I'm not sure if that's good or bad, but it was convenient. 

Here's what I'm doing with it. 

I don't have a bow mount trolling motor for this boat, but it did come with a transom mount motor. I figured i could simply get a piece of of aluminum angle to mount it to the bow. It's 3"x4"x 1/4". Seams like it will work really well.... and it only cost $5. 



With the sheet aluminum I want to fill in the open space behind the seats as well as level out between the seat. I'll get lips bent on it on Thursday and paint it up so I can install it next week. 



I also got a couple pieces for around the splash well that I believe had wood previously. I went with aluminum for theses little 1'x1' areas because it will then be flush with the deck instead of raised up 3/4".


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## Nick Jones (Feb 17, 2010)

Heck of a job! You keep me inspired to finish mine. Wonder who will get their third boat first. lol


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## Nussy (Feb 17, 2010)

Nick Jones said:


> Heck of a job! You keep me inspired to finish mine. Wonder who will get their third boat first. lol



Hell, I just want to get the 2nd one finished at this point!!! :LOL2:


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## jasper60103 (Feb 17, 2010)

Hey, Nussy.
That's a pretty good idea on the TM bow bracket. I have a transom
mount TM as well and would like to have the option to bow mount it.
I was thinking of doing the same, but my bow cover seems
a little flimsy, but I do see screw holes where a previous owner
mounted a TM. 
Maybe I worry too much, but its just a thin sheet of
aluminum riveted to the boat, and my TM weighs about 40 lbs.
Does your bow cover feel pretty solid? 
jasper

edit: Hopefully, this pic of my rig will give you a better idea what I'm talking about. The bow is meant to be stepped on, so should I be concerned?


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## Nussy (Feb 17, 2010)

My bow has a wood backing under it. Maybe 1/2-3/4" plywood. My plan is to put 4 bolts through it with big washers to give it some extra support. If I were you, I'd just do the same, Cut a piece of wood 2-3 times bigger than the bolt pattern to spread out the load.


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## jasper60103 (Feb 17, 2010)

Nussy said:


> My bow has a wood backing under it. Maybe 1/2-3/4" plywood. My plan is to put 4 bolts through it with big washers to give it some extra support. If I were you, I'd just do the same, Cut a piece of wood 2-3 times bigger than the bolt pattern to spread out the load.



The extra support sounds like a good idea. My problem though is my bow cover is kinda bowed shaped (i.e. not a flat surface). So maybe replacing aluminum bow cover with plywood is be a better solution. I don't want to get in over my head though. I will think on it some. Sorry, I didn't mean to high-jack your thread. Thanks. jasper


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## Nussy (Feb 17, 2010)

jasper60103 said:


> Nussy said:
> 
> 
> > My bow has a wood backing under it. Maybe 1/2-3/4" plywood. My plan is to put 4 bolts through it with big washers to give it some extra support. If I were you, I'd just do the same, Cut a piece of wood 2-3 times bigger than the bolt pattern to spread out the load.
> ...



I still think you'd be ok doing it. Just don't use as big of a backing or use aluminum to back that might be a little more flexible. Hell, you could probably just get by with washers. I wouldn't hesitate looking at your boat to do it.


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## jasper60103 (Feb 17, 2010)

Nussy said:


> jasper60103 said:
> 
> 
> > Nussy said:
> ...



Oh, I understand what you're saying now. You are suggesting a piece of plywood backing underneath the TM mount, just slightly larger. That makes sense. Yea, that may work and a whole lot easier to do. Thanks for clarifying. -jasper


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## Froggy (Feb 17, 2010)

Damn, nice find!!


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## Nussy (Feb 21, 2010)

Got the Trolling Motor Mount and Motor Installed and Wired. The bracket seams really stable. I guess we'll see how it works. 







The original boat had a regular 3 prong plug on it. I decided to rewire it with 8 gauge and use it for a TM plug. Seams to work pretty well and didn't cost me a dime. 




I also got all my wiring done, and wired into the panel. Forgot pics of the panel but I'll get some for next post. I decided to heat shrink each wire and the put another head shrink over the combined cable. Seamed to work good.....and I got to test out my new $10 heat gun(boy Harbor Freight gets addicting) :LOL2: 






I also wired the trailer lights in. Thanks to those that had the ideas of running the wires through the tongue of the trailer. I was able to fish everyting through. It sure beats the tire wraps they previous owner had on it. 

I also was able to bend up the new sheet metal to close in some areas that were open previously behind the seat, next the motor and raise up the area between the seats.






Should be getting pretty closed to finished in the next couple weeks. Perfect timing as that should be when the ice goes out!!!!


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## Nussy (Feb 28, 2010)

Was able to get the tin all installed and finish up the switch panel. All I really have left is the rear deck, seats, and front storage hatches. Should hopefully get it finished in the next week. 

Here's a few pics.
Before



After









Switch Panel--From Cabelas


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## eezerz (Feb 28, 2010)

Really nice work... She's comin along nicely... I like your TM mount, looks clean(better than wood)...

If I were u, I would take a file to those sharp corners on the TM mount, I'd hate to see you or the kid cut opent there arm or something like that...
I would also mark that plug for the TM motor(12V only) or 24V, whatever power your running through it. You wouldn't want one of your guests plugging in a cell phone or laptop or coffe maker and causing a fire from shorting it out.... I know u know what it is, but, others may not. Especially since you said you were gonna sell it when complete.....

Just my opinion, but it REALLY does look great. GREAT JOB so far....
=D> =D> =D>


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## Nussy (Feb 28, 2010)

eezerz said:


> Really nice work... She's comin along nicely... I like your TM mount, looks clean(better than wood)...
> 
> If I were u, I would take a file to those sharp corners on the TM mount, I'd hate to see you or the kid cut opent there arm or something like that...
> I would also mark that plug for the TM motor(12V only) or 24V, whatever power your running through it. You wouldn't want one of your guests plugging in a cell phone or laptop or coffe maker and causing a fire from shorting it out.... I know u know what it is, but, others may not. Especially since you said you were gonna sell it when complete.....
> ...



Thanks for both good ideas. I will definitely do both.


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## switchback (Mar 1, 2010)

Looks great man. Your doing a great job.

The one thing I would worry about is the TM slipping off the mount. Being that thin and slick. TRUST ME.

When I starting fishing with my buddy back home, He had a small flat bottom with a 15 hp motor. I made a bracket like that and we mounted the new TM. One day while fishing, we came out of a cove protected from the wind, wide open and hit some rough chop. I saw a black and red flash go past my face. Asked my buddy what the heck was that. He pointed up front and the new TM was gone. Yep, now it rests on the bottom of Sardis Lake. We're lucky it didn't hit us in the head. After that, he screwed a piece of 2x4 on the bracket with 2 countersunk holes where the TM screws down into them.


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## russ010 (Mar 1, 2010)

switchback said:


> he screwed a piece of 2x4 on the bracket with 2 countersunk holes where the TM screws down into them.



that's a good idea :idea:


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## Nussy (Mar 3, 2010)

That's a good idea. I was actually thinking about using a piece of rubber and glueing it on each side of the bracket, that way it would have some more bite to it.


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## Nussy (Mar 15, 2010)

Well finally back at it. Was able to get some work done over the last couple days. I was able to get all the wood cut and and carpeted. Some pieces twice . One recommendation for everyone out there, make sure all of your carpet is facing the same direction as it will be on the boat. I have a few panels that are next to each other and I put the carpet on 180 Degrees, and you can see the grain is darker in one direction than it is in the other. Also I used Henry Outdoor Carpet Adhesive and that stuff sticks like crazy. I've seen a lot of questions about glue lately so I recommend going that route over contact cement or spray glue, which I used on my last build. 

I should have the boat finished tomorrow and I'll post some pics. Just have a couple hinges to install and a seat base to mount, then wash it down and touch up the paint job.


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## Nussy (Mar 18, 2010)

Well here she is!!! It's pretty much done, just a couple minor things like screwing some straps to the hatches so they can be opened and repainting the wheels. Have a little bit of touch up work on the boat and trailer. 

She's going up for sale this weekend so let me know what you think I should ask. Motor is a 1979 Chrysler 45HP. Everything on this boat is in working condition.


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## dyeguy1212 (Mar 18, 2010)

So the final pictures come up and you're already selling it? :shock: What about on the water pics?!


Just kidding... looks really good nussy. Looks really spacious and fishing-friendly. I especially like that rod locker design.


Bravo =D> =D> =D> =D>


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## Nussy (Mar 19, 2010)

Here what it took to do it. Just over 100 hours total. 

6-Dec	Bought Boat	
10-Dec	Tear apart 4
11-Dec	Tear Apart 4
17-Dec	Motor work 2
18-Dec	Motor work  2
27-Dec	Transom Cut varnish	2
27-Dec	Bondo 2
31-Dec	Trailer Sanding 8
1-Jan	Trailer Sanding 5
2-Jan	Transom Install 8
3-Jan	Trailer Priming 2
4-Jan	Trailer Painting 2
3-Jan	Trailer Re-Assembly	1
3-Jan	Steelflex 6
11-Jan	Floatation 1
17-Jan	Wood 3
29-Jan	Grinding/Steering Wheel	5
30-Jan	Grinding& Floor braces	5
6-Feb	Rear Floor & compartments	4
7-Feb	Front Deck, Carpet, console	5
13-Feb	Side Panels, Steering Wheel, front hatches	4
14-Feb	Motor	2
14-Mar	Wood, Carpet, Install	16
15-Mar	Hatches, wood and carpet	6
17-Mar	Hinges, cleaning, misc, etc	4
Total Hours 103


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## Nussy (Mar 19, 2010)

Also, please let me know what you think the boat is worth?


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## ober51 (Mar 19, 2010)

Great job - clean lines are a huge plus when buying and selling a boat. I don't know how much it's worth but I think around here it might be about 2k-2,500. Just a guesstimate, and actually now that I think about the motor size, maybe 3k. The market is tough right now. But rest assured someone is going to get one awesome boat.


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## 270Handiman (Mar 19, 2010)

That's a good job on the record keeping!

According to my wife, the amount of time I spend working on my boat is - "ALL"!


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## Rat (Mar 19, 2010)

Around here you could get $3000 easy. I would list it for $5000 and settle for $4500. I would also slap some decals on that Green trim to break it up a little also. 

If you paid yourself $20 hour you have about $3495 in this rig. Put a scrap book of the build together in a 3 ring binder to show the prospects and I bet you can get $4500 out of her. Emphasize it's "custom Built". :mrgreen:


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## Nussy (Mar 19, 2010)

Handiman, I think my wife is in the same boat as yours!!!

I was thinking about some decals too...maybe caller the "_Bass Assassin"_

Thanks guys, for all your help and input!!!! I couldn't have done it without this site. 

First $2500 cash takes it. Then on to the next build.


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## dyeguy1212 (Mar 19, 2010)

Nussy said:


> Handiman, I think my wife is in the same boat as yours!!!
> 
> I was thinking about some decals too...maybe caller the "_Bass Assassin"_
> 
> ...




I don't think you'll have any problem selling it in a hurry for that price. Well worth it IMO.. tis the season


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## devilmutt (Mar 20, 2010)

Saw your boat listed on CL, can you tell me what the towing weight would be of the package?


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## Nussy (Mar 20, 2010)

devilmutt said:


> Saw your boat listed on CL, can you tell me what the towing weight would be of the package?



Honestly I don't know. It's pretty light however. I can easily pick up the tongue of the trailer and move it around. If I had to guess(and that's all it would be), I would say around 900-1100.


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## devilmutt (Mar 21, 2010)

Thank you.


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## electrocow (Apr 5, 2010)

hey buddy, did you ever sell your boat?


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## Nussy (Apr 6, 2010)

electrocow said:


> hey buddy, did you ever sell your boat?



Yep, sold it last week for $2250 and sold the anchormate that came with it for $55. Guess that equals about $8/hr


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## Troutman3000 (Apr 6, 2010)

Nussy said:


> electrocow said:
> 
> 
> > hey buddy, did you ever sell your boat?
> ...




Not bad if you enjoy what you are doing.


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## Nussy (Apr 6, 2010)

You've got that right Troutman. Getting paid for a hobby you love doing... is a bonus!!! 

The funny thing is I posted it on Craiglist and had a guy email me to see I was willing to remodel his boat for him. Hmmm, maybe a little side business.


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## Troutman3000 (Apr 6, 2010)

Nussy said:


> You've got that right Troutman. Getting paid for a hobby you love doing... is a bonus!!!
> 
> The funny thing is I posted it on Craiglist and had a guy email me to see I was willing to remodel his boat for him. Hmmm, maybe a little side business.




That would be great. Then you can charge him for materials and labor. Take a deposit and you have the boat for collateral as well. 

I think now you have a pretty good understanding of what each project is going to cost and you could levy a fee that you believe is fair. I would love to be able to do this as a side hobby/business. I learned so much on the first one that I could become way more efficient the next time.


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## Bone Collectorz (Jul 26, 2010)

Where did you get those hinges?


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## Nussy (Jul 27, 2010)

The hinges for the front compartments came with the boat. The hinges for rear deck I got a local store called Fleet Farm. They also have them at Menards.


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## jasper60103 (Jul 27, 2010)

Hey, Nussy.

How's the fishing?
Did you ever find a new boat?


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## Nussy (Jul 27, 2010)

jasper60103 said:


> Hey, Nussy.
> 
> How's the fishing?
> Did you ever find a new boat?



Nope, Sold both project I did last winter and I've been watching craigslist for the next deal I can work on. In regards to the fishing, I haven't been out much but the walleyes on the the bay of GB have been good. Perch has been horrible, hopefully that turns around.


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## brownrandy18 (Mar 9, 2012)

do you remember what hp the boat was rated for????? thanks


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## Nussy (Mar 9, 2012)

I think a 60 hp, but not 100% sure


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## brownrandy18 (Mar 10, 2012)

ok thankyou


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