# THE SWAMP DONKEY- New Pics Paint/Floor/Electrical



## waterfowler1 (Jul 12, 2010)

Hey guys after lurking and looking at all the sweet mods you guys have done I decided to get in on this. So I bought me a boat the other day and am looking forward to making it mine. It is a 1981 Lowe 1436 flat bottom, both the trailer and boat are in decent shape structurally and not so good cosmetically lol. (I will try to get pics up tomorrow) So as I looked over the boat I dubbed it with the name Swamp Donkey. The boat is however mostly welded, especially around the rotten transom. so I was wondering, should I replace the transom before or after I begin the process of painting the outside of the boat? and If I were to replace it how would you guys go about cutting the welds on the corner braces? cutoff wheel? angle grinder? I know that I need to show you guys pics and Ill be sure to get them up soon! thanks in advance and I look forward to joining this community!


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## Jim (Jul 12, 2010)

:WELCOME:

Thanks for joining! 

Get those pictures up so the guys can at least point you in the right direction.


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## bobberboy (Jul 12, 2010)

Love the name...


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## waterfowler1 (Jul 12, 2010)

Alright so here are the pictures...











Here you can see what shape the transom is in and some of the welds around the corners...















Something kinda cool, look closely at the bolt, when you remove it there is surprise...





It extends the trailer, kinda thinkin I should get that closed up...


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## Sader762 (Jul 12, 2010)

I'd pull it out then do what you need to the bost and then put in a new transom.


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## Froggy (Jul 12, 2010)

You got a nice rig there, good luck with it!!!


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Jul 12, 2010)

I like the extending tongue great for launching at shallow ramps. I would replace the bolt with a lockable pin.


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## huntinfool (Jul 12, 2010)

I would get all of the transom work done before you paint. I'd hate to get the paint done and then realize I had to drill or weld the boat and mess up the paint.


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## Howard (Jul 12, 2010)

Nice find! My trailer is similar. Please look at what I did with my trailer and it might help you. I really did not care for those hubs so it was a cheap easy change. Click on link. https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=14366


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## waterfowler1 (Jul 12, 2010)

Thanks for the encouragement guys! Well I pulled the boat off the trailer to get a better look at the trailer and decided to work on it first. I began stripping her down to bare bones and began taking off the old paint/rust from the trailer itself. Howard- should have read your thread earlier, I was using a wire wheel for hours trying to get that junk off and finally called it quits about halfway through... I will be picking up a sanding wheel tomorrow... Will post pictures tomorrow


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## Gunner (Jul 13, 2010)

the quickest thing i found for rust was a wire brush drill attachment. im sure someone has something that works better but that's how i did it. definately quicker than just a wire brush


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## Howard (Jul 13, 2010)

Those sanding wheels work awesome, down side is you can go through several of them but man they get down to bare metal quick. Also the homecenters have a wheel thats blue and looks like melted plastic but it also works good and will last longer. You can get a angle grinder for 30 - 40 bucks now,


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## JRHOADES20 (Jul 13, 2010)

waterfowler1 said:


> Thanks for the encouragement guys! Well I pulled the boat off the trailer to get a better look at the trailer and decided to work on it first. I began stripping her down to bare bones and began taking off the old paint/rust from the trailer itself. Howard- should have read your thread earlier, I was using a wire wheel for hours trying to get that junk off and finally called it quits about halfway through... I will be picking up a sanding wheel tomorrow... Will post pictures tomorrow




angle grinder with sanding wheel is definately the way to go. I am going to through the same exact process as you. I have my trailer 1/2 sanded and all taken apart. I was afraid to sand without priming immediately so I am doing it in pieces. Self etching primer isnt the cheapest. The grinder made my steel look like it came from the factory. Good luck


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## waterfowler1 (Jul 13, 2010)

So today was great, I decided after leaving the trailer outside last night and seeing the newly formed rust on the places i had just grinded I decided to start doing it in pieces. so I took off the tongue of the trailer and began on it today. I took your advise Howard and used one of those sanding wheels on the angle grinder. If you need to take paint and rust off easily that is the way to go. I had to run to the home depot this afternoon and picked up some more of those sanding wheels, primer/paint, and some rust converter. I got the outside of the tongue looking pretty good then decided to primer it. Next I took the inside piece on the tongue that has the coupler and used rust converter on it (rust reformer). This stuff is amazing, one coat and it looks great, Im so glad nobody before me decided to paint that thing because I would have had to grind it down. One more coat and it will be ready to be painted.

After removing the tounge





After taking off the safety chain thing and grinding for about 20 minutes, Notice what kind of wheel is on the angle grinder.










Ground down to nothing





The two pieces





After primer- the white is the outside the black is the inside of the tongue










the black is the rust reformer made by rustoleum i think, it worked awesome, and the white is rustoleum primer.





Well that be all for today, tomorrow is supposed to be in the 100's so im gonna try to get done working early and maybe get a little more done on the trailer. Thanks for the support!!!


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## waterfowler1 (Jul 14, 2010)

I have been trying to decide how to run the lights to my trailer. As I looked at the old photos I saw how the conduit had been welded to the top of the tongue because of its special telescoping powers. Anyways I thought it looked ugly as sin the first time I saw it so I was trying to figure out a way to work around this tongue issue without something ugly to get in the way. Then it hit me! Could I also tack on a new piece of conduit, but this time run it under the tongue? That way if I thought I needed to make it longer I just unhook the lights and back the boat in that way? I mean Ill probably tow it in the shortest position so why not make that the longest the light wires need to run to the front? Anybody ever done this? Or thought of it? Am I not making sense? Maybe you could shed some light on my ideas and give your perspective. Heck, if you got a better idea Id love to hear it!


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## Howard (Jul 14, 2010)

Mine also telescopes but I will never use it so I wired it as it sits. I only have one boat so no worries unless you have 2 or loan it out. Try those blue wheels, good for paint removel. Are you changing your hubs?


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## Troutman3000 (Jul 14, 2010)

Howard said:


> Mine also telescopes but I will never use it so I wired it as it sits. I only have one boat so no worries unless you have 2 or loan it out. Try those blue wheels, good for paint removel. Are you changing your hubs?




You need to get one of those wire wheel brushes attachments for tha much rust. Takes it off real fast and doesnt ever run out.


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## waterfowler1 (Jul 14, 2010)

Howard- Yes I have thought about doing that same thing but many of our "ramps" around here are just where the dirt meets water around the river. I will probably be using the extension quite a bit and I think if I just get that conduit tacked on underneath it would kinda hide. that way I can just unhook the lights, extend the tongue and drop her in the water. because ill probably tow it the same every time, and sure if somebody really needed to borrow it (but none of my friends own a boat lol Im only 18) that would be okay, we would just have to work something out to extend the lights via a connector or something. oh and the hubs, i really havent thought about it, when I went to look at the boat the guy couldn't get one of the tires to air up, so I took the flat one with me and started to drive home, well on my way home I stopped by the walmart at 11PM and found a tire/wheel combo aired up and ready to go $38 so after the purchase I called the guy and told him I was on my way with a new tire. The way I figured, I would have spend prolly $70 or $80 in gas going home that night and coming back the next day with the tire aired up, so all in all I got a spare tire for cheap. So I towed the thing home and ended up getting back about 1:30 AM. I was on the interstate at one point and towed the thing at 70 for about 30 minutes, plus the rest of the way home on the highway/ county roads. That night they passed the test in my book, only thing I would change up for would be extra clearance but not a huge issue for me. And this blue wheel you speak of is it those sandpaper looking ones or something else?

Trout-I was using a wire wheel at first and spent forever just to make it look kinda good and I might consider myself a perfectionist but if im gonna do a job i wanna do it right and get it done ya know. I dont wanna knock your way of doing things, im just saying it wasn't workin for me.


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## Troutman3000 (Jul 14, 2010)

Whatever floats your boat :mrgreen:


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## BaitCaster (Jul 14, 2010)

waterfowler1 said:


> oh and the hubs, i really havent thought about it, when I went to look at the boat the guy couldn't get one of the tires to air up, so I took the flat one with me and started to drive home, well on my way home I stopped by the walmart at 11PM and found a tire/wheel combo aired up and ready to go $38 so after the purchase I called the guy and told him I was on my way with a new tire. The way I figured, I would have spend prolly $70 or $80 in gas going home that night and coming back the next day with the tire aired up, so all in all I got a spare tire for cheap. So I towed the thing home and ended up getting back about 1:30 AM. I was on the interstate at one point and towed the thing at 70 for about 30 minutes, plus the rest of the way home on the highway/ county roads. That night they passed the test in my book, only thing I would change up for would be extra clearance but not a huge issue for me.



You should at least take the hubs apart and check the bearings. I towed my trailer on the highway with no problems the day I got it, but when I took apart the hubs the bearings and spindles were shot. Better to find out now than ruin a day of fishing in the future!


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## Howard (Jul 14, 2010)

This is the wheel I used. Worked very well with paint and good with rust. If your hubs are like my old ones, they did not have stubs on them for the lug nuts. I had to run a bolt through the wheel into the hub and then the bolt would extend out the other side of the hub. Just didn't like that set up. New hub ( with studs and lug nuts ) came prepacked and new bearings inside for $30 at Northern Tool.


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## waterfowler1 (Jul 14, 2010)

Caster- Im glad you pointed that out! That would have never occurred to me. But yes I will take a look at them, I need to take the frame of the trailer apart soon anyways so I can get it prepped for primer/paint.

Howard-It looks like that would do wonders on paint/rust. Can I ask where you picked that thing up at?


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## waterfowler1 (Jul 14, 2010)

Today was extremely so not alot got done. However I did talk a friend of mine into welding for me. He attached the new safety chains to the inner tongue, tacked on the new conduit under the outer tongue and even began making me a winch post. 

last coat of Rust Reformer





















Conduit got a little hot





Weld is not beautiful, but will definitely hold.


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## Howard (Jul 15, 2010)

Got the wheel at Home Depot. Always good to have a friend that welds and love those boots! Like that you welded the coupler on and links to hold safety chains. Looking good in Ks.


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## waterfowler1 (Jul 16, 2010)

Spent most of the day working, so coming home to the trailer tongue still uncompleted was kind of a downer, but I got out the angle grinder and got started. Began by cutting, grinding and rounding all the sharp edges on the winch post and prepared the bow stop arms for painting. Then stopped by the local hardware store and picked up bolts to hold up the arms and some U bolts to attach it to the trailer. I also picked up some JB weld stick, Im not sure if it was a good idea or not but I did locate a few small holes towards the rear of the boat...  But nothing major really, the largest one couldn't have been more than a 1/16" big so a little JB putty cant hurt too bad. It says that it is sand-able and paint-able so not too worried in that department. All of the tongue is primered and will probably be ready for paint tomorrow or later this weekend. I will attempt to get my bunks fabricated, cut, drilled, and sealed with Thompson's so that they will be ready for carpet and maybe even mounting if I get the trailer frame grinded and painted. Oh and Howard, thanks for the kind words bud!


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## waterfowler1 (Jul 18, 2010)

I can see the light at the end of the tunnel!!! The trailer is taking shape and I have gotten most of the parts ready for the final coats of paint. 

Grinded down the paint and rust on the frame





After application of Rust Reformer





After application of Rust Reformer





First Coat of Primer





First Coat of Primer





Unfortunately I had to order some specialty parts online and they will not be in till later this week. Oh, and Howard I did pick up those hubs, were on sale for $25. I am also going to Oklahoma next weekend so I hope to have all of the parts painted so they have time to cure properly before assembly.


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## Howard (Jul 19, 2010)

Looking really good, replaceing the hubs is money well spent. One of those preventive moves that will pay off and you will not even know it. Great piece of mind. Good luck in OK---- have been to OKC a few times, love that place!


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## SmallieBigs (Jul 19, 2010)

Hey you're doing a great job on that trailer so far. I just picked up a little old 12ft V with an old trailer I will have to do some work on so I'll be watching your progress.

Looking good so far!

SB


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## waterfowler1 (Jul 19, 2010)

Thanks for the encouragement!
So I've decided after work I'm going to go check my trail camera on my food plots, then I'm going to start painting the trailer tonight. Some questions though, have any of you used a sponge brush when applying paint? I do have access to a sprayer but I think ill just use it on the boat. How long does rustoleum need to cure before being exposed to rain/water so that it holds up well? I don't think it will be that much of a problem because i will be gone and will have the parts in the garage but would like to know so I will be able to give it ample time. Thanks for your help and if you have any suggestions please let me know! Thanks!


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## huntinfool (Jul 19, 2010)

I personally would not try and brush it on. I would spray it. As for the cure time I would give it about 24 hours and even more since your going out of town you should be fine.


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## Howard (Jul 19, 2010)

Advantage of brushing is you can apply finish as thick as you want. I have fabricated many items and brushed on oil base enamel. Spraying gives a little better finish. My trailer dried in 24 hours but needed a extra couple days to fully cure because of my thick application and humity this time of year.


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## waterfowler1 (Jul 20, 2010)

So I decided to get on it and hopefully Ill be done tomorrow night. Tonight my buddy finished the welding on the frame and when I got home I drilled/counter sunk the bunks and drilled holes in the frame for the bolts.

Finished painting for the evening...





My custom winch post





Here are the leaf springs, sorry about the Picture its not great...





Tomorrow I hope to finish the painting and maybe begin to wrap the bunks in carpet. Any tips on wrapping the bunks? Oh and I did use a sponge brush today. I spent $1 for 10 of them today and they worked so much better than a brush that had cost me $5 a pop, plus I can just pitch em in the trash and not have to worry about cleaning em for a dime a piece. Ill probably spray the boat but I will be using sponge brushes on the rest of the trailer. When parts come in and Im back next week I will begin assembly and should have the trailer completed.


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## arkansasnative (Jul 20, 2010)

coming along nicely... on your boat, if you dont want to use brushes or deal with spraying, look into those 4" high density foam rollers. i used them on my boat and really like the way it leveled out. i bought the roller and handle combo and 2 extra rollers for like 5-7 bucks at wally world!


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## waterfowler1 (Jul 21, 2010)

Hello!
Tomorrow I am leaving town and had a few questions to have answered while im gone.
-Has Anyone ever heard of or used Neomats on the floor of their boats? See Neo-Mats
-What kind of Navigation lights are you guys using? Id like to go with LEDS but dont exactly wanna pay $100 just for navigation lights. 
-Anybody run a mud motor?
-Recommendation for a good boat cover during storage/travel?

I have finished painting the trailer and am going to let the paint cure while im away!
Have a good weekend!


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## waterfowler1 (Jul 25, 2010)

TTT


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## huntinfool (Jul 25, 2010)

Never used the mats so I can't offer any help. 
As far as navagation lights I just use the regular lights. I mounted the recepticle up front on the deck and on the back I mounted it in the small triangle piece at the transom.


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## waterfowler1 (Jul 27, 2010)

So I have been bustin my butt trying to get everything ready for trailer completion. Tonight I started getting the frame put back together and Its starting to look like an actual trailer! lol Sorry in advance for the pictures they are not the best






Picked up a quick release pin for the tongue





Opposite view





Used PVC pipe to keep pressure off of the wiring conduit and plan to do the same around the winch post, They do flex a little and am thinking about filling them with liquid nails or silicone to firm them up. Any thoughts?















Again sorry for the photos, Ill be updating again withing the next few days!


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## nyjay75 (Jul 28, 2010)

I can't tell from the pics, but if your wiring conduit is not welded to your frame, flip your u-bolt and slide the flat plate between the frame and conduit. you can always wire tie the conduit to your brackets then trim off the excess u-bolt for a cleaner look.


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## Howard (Jul 28, 2010)

really looks good and your dog is ready to go


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Jul 28, 2010)

Replace the pvc with heavy wall pipe nipples or some square tubing.


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## waterfowler1 (Jul 29, 2010)

Haha yea those two are a little too jumpy for the boat, I've got a chocolate lab and he is pretty laid back and will definitely get to see quite a bit of boating action.

Today was pretty hot so I didnt really accomplish much...

But my girlfriend Shyanne got in on the action!











Finished the bunks!















She wanted to sit in it...





Because I Eyeball everything I didn't compensate for the bunk not being tall enough for the boat to clear the fenders #-o #-o #-o So after feeling a bit frustrated I decided id have to have some custom ones made and took the old ones off...





Thanks for lookin! I plan to start the winch post tomorrow and wire the trailer while im at it... If you got a suggestion or comment don't be afraid to post, Id love to hear what you guys have to say!!!! 

Thanks!


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## Howard (Jul 29, 2010)

I was wondering why those bunks were so low, looks like you GF and pups are ready to go boating


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## waterfowler1 (Jul 30, 2010)

Today I got quite a bit accomplished!!!

I started out by wiring the lights and I got it done fairly early so I began to horrible transom replacement!!!  :shock: :shock: lol

Can you say LEDS !?





To make this setup work I had to extend the ground (white to blue)





Grounded down





The tail-lights are sealed and therefore individually grounded so I extended the grounds and bolted them together.















Cutting the corner braces!










Everything just fell apart...










All cleaned up!





*Okay so how do I bend this up and out of the way so I can slide in the new transom???*





What I have so far...





Alright so I need some suggestions on how to bend that top cap up or info on how to work around it? I cant continue until I get some help!!!! Thanks!


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Jul 30, 2010)

I used a pair of vicegrips with 4 or 5 inch wide jaws. They are for gutter work.


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## hyzerbomber (Jul 30, 2010)

Could you cut if off and come back with an Alum C-channel and cap it off? Not sure of the different sizes of that material but have seen people use it for Floor support over the ribs of a semi-V in other mod's. 
Do not know Alum that well but would think even using large hand breaks to bend it back might compromise the structure of the material/cap...?

Nice work on the trailer BTW!


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## KMixson (Jul 30, 2010)

Not sure how feasible it would be, but maybe you could make a two piece transom. Place one board on the lower half and then fit another on the top of that one by sliding it into the top bracket then pushing the bottom of it flush with the top of the lower piece.


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## huntinfool (Jul 30, 2010)

Instead of having some fenders made, why not just change out the 2x4's for some 4x4's. Then you would have the clearance needed to use the fenders you already have made.

As for the transom, the bottom piece of aluminum is more than likely riveted in. Why not just take the rivets out and then install the transom and then reinstall the aluminum piece. If not then making a two piece transom or bending the top aluminum up may be your only option.


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## waterfowler1 (Jul 31, 2010)

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions guys!

Today I made a run to home depot and picked up a hand seamer, plywood, glue, and vise grips to aid in my project!

I used a combo of the hand seamer and vise grips and got the top cap settled for now...

Its not too pretty, but grandad stopped by the house and he mentioned that his good friend who builds fence at his placecan weld aluminum! SCORE!





My transom in two parts, (3/4" plywood was used)















I glued and clamped the two pieces together tonight with titebond III and will probably seal it tomorrow before going to check on food plots/trail cams.

Hyzer- Thanks! I still gotta do some touch ups and finish the winch post but other than that Ill be done with it! and If I do need to replace the cap it may not be that big of a deal, I think I could just cut it flush with the back end and make sure to run bolts all the way through the new cap, wall of boat, transom boards, and out the cap, with the corner braces holding the ends.

Mixson- thought about scootin around the problem but I dont want to ever have to do this again [-o< , that was the original transom that was in it and it lasted almost 30 years. If I ever have to replace it again ill probably sell the thing, lol. so I ended up opting for the hard and dirty way.

Huntinfool-Well the amount of time and money It would take to remake the bunks, wouldnt be able to touch buying new fenders, plus the old ones were pretty much junk, When I picked up the boat the guy had to use a pry bar to bend one up so It wouldnt drag close to the tire. :shock: Im already starting to cook up ideas in my head!!! :roll:


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## BassBlaster (Jul 31, 2010)

Getting that aluminum bent up out of the way is the easy part. Getting it back is a PITA. I beat on mine for an hour getting it back like it was supposed to be and its still not 100% but it was good enough to get the bolts in so I went with it. Yours seems to be in quite a bit better shape than mine is though. Mine looks like it may have had a motor ripped off of it at one time. I stained my new transom a walnut color and put three coats of spar on it. I did that little piece on the back the same way.


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## waterfowler1 (Jul 31, 2010)

yea now Im debating on whether to try and bend it back or just replace it. I found some aluminum channel that would work for $12. So If I just cut off what is there now flush with the back end, could I just bolt it all the way though and still have the craft be structurally sound? or is this a no no?


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## nyjay75 (Jul 31, 2010)

I had about a 1/2 inch between my boat and my fenders, after thinking about 4x4's and modifying my fenders, I just turned my 2x4's on end. This increased the gap and only took abou 20 minutes to change the mounting brackets around. Plus it's a helluva lot cheaper then replacing anything. Great job so far, and good luck bending that cap back.


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## DaveInGA (Jul 31, 2010)

waterfowler1,

Another option on the fender/bunk problem is just to throw another 2X4 under each bunk, screwing them together before remounting. Maybe cheaper than having custom fenders made.

On the transom here's a couple ideas:

1. Before you cut out the original metal, try using some string/rope/wire slipped into the "U" of the folded metal, tie the ends together to form a loop and get a buddy to pull the metal out of the way "just enough" for you to slip the transom in. It may turn out you can get it out of the way enough to slide the transom in without bending the metal. You could try it with screw drivers at end end of the channel as well, but I suspect the rope idea might work better. Remember, you only have to do it once and it's done. So a little patience, sweat and problem solved.

2. If you decide to cut the original channel out and use a new piece of channel, you should be fine also. I would suggest running it all the way across the top of the transom board to "cap" the transom full and to actually gain structural rigidity. You might want to run screws all the way across the new channel and then attach the caps. Don't forget the 5200.

Hope this helps,

Dave


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## hyzerbomber (Jul 31, 2010)

No engineer but would think a bolted C-channel would end up being stronger than the original. Especially if you go all the way across per Dave. Would depend the integrity of the "C" too. If you have a metal shop local, it might be worth a little extra cost for a more industrial C especially if you are going with a strong outboard...? 2¢


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## huntinfool (Jul 31, 2010)

DaveInGA said:


> waterfowler1,
> 
> Another option on the fender/bunk problem is just to throw another 2X4 under each bunk, screwing them together before remounting. Maybe cheaper than having custom fenders made.
> 
> Dave


This is what I did. I just typed a 4x4 and forgot to mention just adding another 2x4.


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## waterfowler1 (Aug 1, 2010)

Hey guys so today was totally dedicated to the winch post and I got the task completed!

This is how it turned out!















Took the advise and found some 3/4" steel rod and replaced the PVC 










After debating I think I will be putting in a new top cap for the transom. I think im past fender issue for now, I think Ill leave things the way they are and just buy some new ones. I am going to complete the winch post by cutting off the extra thats hanging off the back of the arms and maybe start to touch up the paint a little bit. Thanks For all the help guys!


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## KMixson (Aug 1, 2010)

Do you have a cap for the top of the winch post or drain holes in the bottom of it?


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## waterfowler1 (Aug 1, 2010)

right now neither, but ill probably get a cap soon


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## waterfowler1 (Aug 20, 2010)

Hey guys!


have been extremely busy lately as I have begun my college career. I finally had a chance to come home and continue working on the Swamp Donkey. I haven't done a whole lot up until today but I will be ready to have the transom welded up tomorrow. Thanks for the support!

Paint is stripped off










As you can see, I put a coat of bedliner on the bottom of the boat and am currently waiting on another can of the stuff before I can put the final coat on.





The JB putty fix lol... The transom was beginning to pit so I cleaned it up and stuck some putty in to fill the holes and hand sanded them down.





There is however a little bit of paint left, This is an example and I was wondering if i could leave it, i am going to use a self etching primer, so would it be an issue if i left it?





The new top cap!!!





oh that transom looks beautiful!!!





This might be a problem...





Do you guys think this could be bent? or fixed for that matter???





Looks pretty good to me, ill prolly have the top cap welded all the way across the back of the boat or at least until it crosses the transom info plate to keep it intact. 





I will probably put a bolt through here for support on both sides of the transom





I may even drill out these two holes and put bolts in there to beef it up that much more lol





Well thats all I got so far, tomorrow ill talk to a welder in town about what he could do for the price. Im gonna try to keep my posts more up to date and work around my school schedule. Again thank you guys for the support!!! I wouldn't be able to do this if it wasn't for you guys chiming in every once in a while!


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## moberg12 (Aug 21, 2010)

How did you seal the transom? 

I wouldn't weld the cap to the boat, you have to think that you or the next owner might need to replace the wood in the transom again in the future. During my build I'm focusing a lot on doing things right the first time but I'm also trying to make sure things are easy to fix in the future.

Just a thought

Greg


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## waterfowler1 (Aug 21, 2010)

I went the thompsons route, with titebond III holding my pieces together and a fairly thick bead of titebond III around all edges. I could go without welding the entire top cap but i would have to fill a few holes first, which in turn would be good in the long run like you stated.


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## Howard (Aug 21, 2010)

I would not try to bend it. Maybe run a aluminum filler on top of the transom from on side to another and weld the two gusset's at each end to tie the two sides together, Then lag down through the top into the transom.


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## waterfowler1 (Aug 22, 2010)

A buddy of mine is going to do the welding for me, We decided to notch out the corners so it will sit flush with the top caps and Ill just bolt it all together.


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## waterfowler1 (Aug 23, 2010)

So the other day i talked with a buddy of mine and he told me he would go ahead and weld up my transom for cheap. His family runs a hog farm and runs an irrigation company. So When i brought it to their shop i found out they had a TIG welder i was hooked. 

Doin work on the transom











lined up















He did a pretty good job and only charged me $40.


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## Tettle07 (Aug 24, 2010)

waterfowler1 said:


> Hey guys so today was totally dedicated to the winch post and I got the task completed!
> 
> This is how it turned out!
> 
> ...




Hey I was looking at your winch post and I just recently switched my "bump stop" (cant think of real name) from a rubber stop like you have to a flat 2x4 that is carpeted (this was a test fit picture)... it has really helped secure my boat to the trailer better. Its more surface area for the mount and puts less stress on the front end of the boat when traveling....... Just my 2 cents worth.....


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## waterfowler1 (Mar 11, 2011)

Painted the entire boat and decided to keep it a solid color for right now... 





Had to give 'er a name










Used closed cell foam between the support ribs on the floor to make it flat and topped the floor with neo-mats in Max-4




















Finally got around to mounting the fire extinguisher





Also installed two hatches for storage under the seats and three illuminated rocker switches for the head lights, navigation lights, and anchor light.




















Right now I'm away at college but the next improvement will be pods, and eventually a homemade lt, thanks for lookin!


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