# Anyone wanting to know about primer. Click Here.



## Waco (May 9, 2008)

Alright yall. I have seen people paint the boats with everything from house paint and brushes to just literally pouring a gallon on it a smearing it around. The question most ask is what kind of primer should I use? Well I'm no rocket scientist but I may be able to help:
If you don't plan on sanding you boat at all and just covering it up with paint: I wouldn't advise this, lol, its very easy and takes no time to do. But, once you spray primer over your already in need of painting boat, the primer will only adhere to the paint that is already coming off. It's kinda pointless to paint over chipping or peeling paint.
If you plan on sanding you boat just enough to make it smooth but not going allthe way to the metal, that's great. You can use pretty much whatever primer you would like. But, I would prefer to use ACRYLIC ENAMEL, oil based. The reason I say this is because acrylic enamel paint is tough and made for getting beat up and scratched on. Also many auto parts stores can mix your primer already pre thinned and with hardener in it to save you a lot of time. Use acrylic enamel paint as well.
If you plan on going bare all metal to metal like me. You are in for a long patient wait. It's gonna take awhile but the end results are priceless. But, you MUST MUST use an ETCH PRIMER. I've seen guys on here use the rattle cans of Etch but they are expensive about $7.00 a can. One quart is $18.00 at O'reilly's Auto Parts. But, you have to purchase the CATALYST to go with it. CATALYST comes already mixed in the rattle cans, the reason for CATALYST in the etch primer is that: *Etch Primer is actually a translucent acid, thats right, it is not paint. The acid is made to bond to bare metal surfaces, the etch primer is what all the aluminum boat manufacturers use. The catalyst is actually an activater for the acid. When etch is combined with the catalyst it creates a chemical reaction, this chemical reaction allows for the etch to actually stick to bare metal and make a smooth surface barrier in which paint can adhere to. Someone ask me to post this about primers so here it is. Maybe this will help them. *


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## WTL (May 9, 2008)

You know that was a great post. Thank you. It almost makes me feel bad for being so lazy as to just wire brushing the loose paint off the boat and hitting it up with a spray can.


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## evattman (May 9, 2008)

Waco said:


> Alright yall. I have seen people paint the boats with everything from house paint and brushes to just literally pouring a gallon on it a smearing it around. The question most ask is what kind of primer should I use? Well I'm no rocket scientist but I may be able to help:
> If you don't plan on sanding you boat at all and just covering it up with paint: I wouldn't advise this, lol, its very easy and takes no time to do. But, once you spray primer over your already in need of painting boat, the primer will only adhere to the paint that is already coming off. It's kinda pointless to paint over chipping or peeling paint.
> If you plan on sanding you boat just enough to make it smooth but not going allthe way to the metal, that's great. You can use pretty much whatever primer you would like. But, I would prefer to use ACRYLIC ENAMEL, oil based. The reason I say this is because acrylic enamel paint is tough and made for getting beat up and scratched on. Also many auto parts stores can mix your primer already pre thinned and with hardener in it to save you a lot of time. Use acrylic enamel paint as well.
> If you plan on going bare all metal to metal like me. You are in for a long patient wait. It's gonna take awhile but the end results are priceless. But, you MUST MUST use an ETCH PRIMER. I've seen guys on here use the rattle cans of Etch but they are expensive about $7.00 a can. One quart is $18.00 at O'reilly's Auto Parts. But, you have to purchase the CATALYST to go with it. CATALYST comes already mixed in the rattle cans, the reason for CATALYST in the etch primer is that: *Etch Primer is actually a translucent acid, thats right, it is not paint. The acid is made to bond to bare metal surfaces, the etch primer is what all the aluminum boat manufacturers use. The catalyst is actually an activater for the acid. When etch is combined with the catalyst it creates a chemical reaction, this chemical reaction allows for the etch to actually stick to bare metal and make a smooth surface barrier in which paint can adhere to. Someone ask me to post this about primers so here it is. Maybe this will help them. *



Nice Post! This is great to know considering Im getting a 14ft v hull to re-paint. So, I have a question. Does this Etch Primer and Catalyst have to be sprayed on? Or can it be rolled on? I don't have a sprayer.


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## Waco (May 9, 2008)

Avattman, I have not seen a post where anyone has tried rolling or bruching on etch primer. I don't see why it wouldn't be possible. However, the primer and catalyst are very very thin. It really isn't like using paint at all. It is all most the consistentcy of sugar water. I really think it could be done, just be very careful cause the thinner a substance is the more its gonna wanna run. Once its on though a darker color primer and paint should cover up any blemishes or runs that might have happened while applying the etch.. Maybe this will help.


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## evattman (May 9, 2008)

Waco said:


> Avattman, I have not seen a post where anyone has tried rolling or bruching on etch primer. I don't see why it wouldn't be possible. However, the primer and catalyst are very very thin. It really isn't like using paint at all. It is all most the consistentcy of sugar water. I really think it could be done, just be very careful cause the thinner a substance is the more its gonna wanna run. Once its on though a darker color primer and paint should cover up any blemishes or runs that might have happened while applying the etch.. Maybe this will help.


Cool. Thanks! Sounds like I would have to be really patient and not let it run. It may be my only option.


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## kemical (May 23, 2008)

EXCELLENT!! post... thanks for the knowledge!! =D>


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## River Rider (Feb 24, 2010)

Ok, with all of this knowledge I am guessing I shouldn't be lazy and just take the long hours to completely sand my boat to bare metal? The paint that is on it already is not peeling, just some is scratched up, but I have done some transom repairs witha welder where it is to the bare metal. So i guess what I am asking is since some is already bare metal should I do the whole boat or can I just sand down enough for a smooth surface and etch what is bare and then paint over the rest of the boat? I don't want to be lazy nor do I want a crappy paint job.


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## Froggy (Feb 26, 2010)

I have the same issue, the runners are bare, the rest is good, I believe I read that you should use the self etch on the bare aluminum, rattlecan, then regular primer over sanded area. that should work.


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## rusmir (Feb 26, 2010)

Can i apply eaycjing primer with out catyl.


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## 270Handiman (Feb 26, 2010)

rusmir said:


> Can i apply eaycjing primer with out catyl.



Do what?


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## rusmir (Feb 26, 2010)

i bought alredy etching primer. can i use it by its self on the bare aluminum or do i need to buy also CATALYST


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## 270Handiman (Feb 26, 2010)

If you bought the self etching primer in spray cans, it is ready to go. Just spray it.


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## rusmir (Feb 26, 2010)

Its not spray can its in quarts cans that u can brush or roll on


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## MeanMouth (Feb 26, 2010)

Froggy said:


> I have the same issue, the runners are bare, the rest is good, I believe I read that you should use the self etch on the bare aluminum, rattlecan, then regular primer over sanded area. that should work.


I've gotten confirmation from a few different marine stores in my area, that you can apply etching primer over a roughed up, sanded surface as well.

So either way (bare metal or not), and etching primer would be a good choice for the entire boat.


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## beamer1 (Feb 3, 2011)

Or you can use a zinc chromatic primer on alum. or metal(bare).It's @ most marine stores & comes in different colors.I'm in the process of bare metal now.I'm going to use expoy on bottom due to osyter shells & rivet age of my 12'er & camo on side(black on bottom).I'm thinking a floating mud bank might be more attractive to fish.I'll kick in post as soon as I can find some pic reducing software for FREE w/o all the junk in it.


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## chavist93 (Feb 3, 2011)

River Rider said:


> Ok, with all of this knowledge I am guessing I shouldn't be lazy and just take the long hours to completely sand my boat to bare metal? The paint that is on it already is not peeling, just some is scratched up, but I have done some transom repairs witha welder where it is to the bare metal. So i guess what I am asking is since some is already bare metal should I do the whole boat or can I just sand down enough for a smooth surface and etch what is bare and then paint over the rest of the boat? I don't want to be lazy nor do I want a crappy paint job.



If the paint is not peeling do not remove it. Prime only the bare areas with etching primer, sand the whole boat enough to give the new paint something to bite to, and paint. There is no need to prime over the existing paint


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## russ010 (Feb 3, 2011)

You can use etching primer over paint that is already there... all you need to do is scratch up the surface so that the primer has something to ETCH to... etching primer is made to react with the aluminum so that it basically eats it way into it. 

I used zinc chromate.. if you can find it, it's pretty cheap and there is nothing you need to add to it. I applied it with a regular paint brush, but you better get 2 brushes for the whole boat. That is some sticky stuff, and the longer you go, the thicker your brush gets to where it's almost like your trying to use a brick to put paint on.

When you get through with the etching primer, do a light wet sand with 800-1200 grit sandpaper to get rid of the runs or any imperfections like brush streaks. If you don't do this, you'll be able to see it on your final coat. 

When you put your final coats on, do as many light coats as possible, and wetsand between each coat after it dries.

I painted my last boat about 3 years ago, and it still looks like it was painted yesterday. The prep work (sanding, primer) is what is going to make your final coats look the best and last that much longer.


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## simbelle (Dec 2, 2012)

Planing on Gluvit my boat I have read that it goes strait on the bare metal, (I know it's more of a epoxy sealer and not a paint), would it add anything to use etching primer before painting or would it be harmful, was just planning to use regular primer then paint.


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## Sjfinest36 (Jan 24, 2017)

This is my first post and first paint job...i wanna paint my 14ft sea nymph...it never had paint on it before...so i should use etching primer right..is it just the regular etching primer the one on the shelves at walmat...or is it a marine kind? I bought a professional rustolem metal primer from lowes...do u think it will be a good idea to use that along with the professional rustolem oil base ssmoke grey paint....please help i need some advice....thanks to anyone who will guide me in the right direction...oh i plan on rolling it also....


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## Johnny (Jan 24, 2017)

Welcome Aboard

well, resurrecting a 8-1/2 year old thread shows that you have
done some research already.
what would help you the most at the moment would be some photos
of your boat and what kind of primer did you buy already.
all of your concerns were addressed in this thread.
just read all the tips carefully and extract what is relevant to your project.
if the hull has like a powdery or rough finish from oxidation, all that must
be mechanically removed with scrubbing, sanding, etc prior to etching, priming and painting.
Just plain etching formula like OSPHO is fine
self etching primer is fine
Rust-Oleum latex based aluminum primer is fine
Rust-Oleum oil based enamel top coats are fine
roll and tip will give you the smoothest finish. (roll the paint on, smooth out with a brush).
there is no need to purchase a "marine" product unless you intend to leave
your boat in the water for extended periods of time.


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## stinkfoot (Jan 24, 2017)

I sanded my boat to bare metal and then cleaned with Naval Jelly(phosphoric acid) before applying Goop Coat-It with a slit foam roller. If I were to do it again I'd use an ordinary roller, the slit foam left lines.


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