# 1972 "Heinz 57" 13 foot Semi V Project -



## ChrisP (Jan 12, 2012)

Well it was sold to me as a 1972 Sears Lake Model but I cannot find anything on the web about it. It has characteristics from a variety of manufactures around the early 70's time frame so I am calling it the Heinz 57 boat! I had some pics on a previous thread where I was asking if anyone could help me identify the boat but I thought I would move the pics and start a thread here, sorry if this is a repeat for some of you. The boat pink slip says Sears but it does not have a plate on it, the trailer has a Sears plate on it. The first set of pics is the boat as purchased.

The hull is painted above the full length splash rail, bare aluminum below. The transom was painted also and had an assortment of holes that were used to mount launch wheels, secure the transom wood and knee and who knows what else since some were merely caulked over with silicon. The boat does not have a bow plate. The trailer was in decent condition, has some rust but nothing serious, it tilts, the bunk carpet on top has worn away so the boat is sitting on wood, the rollers are old, one does not even touch the bottom and the bow stop is cracked, no winch strap either. The interior has three benches with riveted aluminum tops. The floor was painted but it it is flaking pretty badly in some areas and totally gone in others. The previous owner had carpeted the side walls and used some sort of mastic, that is that yellow and black stuff you see on the insides along with pieces of green patio carpet. It has some non standard wooden oar holders the guy built, just more holes as far as I am concerned. Maybe I should call it the Swiss cheese boat!

The plan as it stands is to strip the outside, not sure yet if I will paint or not but if I do, it will be pretty much like the previous paint, above the splash rail. Need to rebuild the transom, strip the interior of that mastic and see what else I discover in the process. The trailer will get a winch strap, new bow stop, new rollers and new carpeted bunks, will add some eyes for straps, remove old side lights that are cracked and not even wired and add some bearing buddies. I want to add some storage under two benches and eventually some seats but not sure about any decking at this stage. Will post my progress as I go!


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## ChrisP (Jan 12, 2012)

Well since Christmas day, here is the progress. - Stripped the paint on the exterior, used Jasco epoxy and paint remover and a scrapper, then followed it up with some Jasco and Brillo pads for tough areas, it was not that hard, probably could have benefited from a power washer. Somehow Jasco got on the two Sears plastic name plates on the sides and melted them, more holes!

Spent a lot of time in the transom, the plywood that was there was in two separate pieces and the hardware used was galvanized instead of stainless so I had some pitting that I had to deal with. I used poplar planks and screwed two together, totally misjudged the thickness so I ended up having to make a lip to get the top under the aluminum transom top. I used JB weld in the holes that I was not going to reuse, not sure if that was the right method based on some of the threads I have read here but I guess I will find out! I bought some aluminum tread plate, drilled the holes for the bolts that were existing and used 3M 5200 Marine adhesive on the back perimeter and the drill holes. I then mounted it to the transom, using stainless steel bolts, washers and rubber washers to complete attaching the wood and tread plate. I finished it off by using some rivets on the corners of the tread plate. You can see the unused holes in the pictures. I still need to do some sanding and finishing and i think i will probably have to paint the inside.

Getting that mastic off the interior walls was hard, used two complete coats of Jasco, a wire brush on some areas and then Jasco and Brillo pads for the final. Pretty pleased with the boat so far. I am working on getting a bow plate made, it is a 90 degree angle, most I have seen on line are sharper at 70 or 80 degrees. 

I used pressure treated 2x4's on the bunks and then read that is a no no, so I redid with redwood and carpet. Bought new rollers and a bow stop, trailer has one five inch roller and two four inch ones toward the rear, the bow stop is a two inch. Aligned the rollers so the bottom actually has support now. Bought a winch strap but could not mount it per the instructions so I ended up doubling it and making a loop by riveting the ends together. I also added non skid tape the the fenders to stop from slipping off. 

I bought a 1985 Honda 100 four stroke 10 HP, engine was really clean but when I ran it, the oil pressure light was bright on idle and would blank out when I hit high RPM's. I changed the oil and restarted it and the light would not even turn on. I also changed the lower unit oil and when I removed the plug, out came water followed by gray/white sludge so off to the repair shop it went for who knows what problems and there went the budget for now! When the engine was running, it ran well so I have some hope. More to follow on this saga!


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## Jdholmes (Jan 12, 2012)

Congrats on your progress and sorry to hear about your motor.

I have two things I would be concerned with.

1: The JB weld...it will likely crack. But you know this...hopefully it isn't holes below the water line?

2 (and this is the bigger concern): your transom...you used poplar planks. Planks will be weaker than plywood layers to begin with but then on top of that you have used poplar. Though poplar is technically a hardwood, it is the softest of hardwoods...about as soft as pine. I would be concerned with the strength of this long term...

I know it's a little late but thought I should let you know in case you weren't aware of the transom issue so you an at the very least keep a close eye...


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## ChrisP (Jan 13, 2012)

Thanks JD, I appreciate the advice, I am planning on having to take the transom off at some point, my initial trial was with two plywood sheets held together with gorilla glue, unfortunately, I used was too much glue and that led to the board not being the same size due to the glue expansion. I will try again with a lot less glue!

Some of the JB weld filled holes are behind the transom and below it which would make them below the water line. I have read that I should have just used 5200 instead of JB weld but that just looks fugly so I am looking for another way. I have heard of aluminum brazing rods but not sure I have the talent to make it look decent! Looks like I might have to "fill" the holes with short stainless bolts, nuts washers and 5200. 

I am not in any "trade" As you can see from all my mistakes, except pencil pushing so everything is a learning lesson and anything I do is an upgrade! Thanks again for the advice, truly appreciate the input.


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## Jdholmes (Jan 13, 2012)

Mistakes are a part of every project...I am no expert either. I have to redo things all the time cause i get it done and then think, "Why did I do that?" 

The bolts are one way you could fix it...are you painting the outside? If you are, you could do the 5200 without even knowing its there. 

You may be fine for a little while anyway, if you have a bilge pump it should be able to handle a little water seeping through a crack that forms...


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Jan 13, 2012)

Try Tite Bond III Water Proof glue. It doesn't expand like gorilla glue.


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## Ringo Steele (Jan 13, 2012)

+1 on the Titebond III glue. No expansion, and you would literally pull the wood itself apart to get the sheets to separate after it dries. Good stuff! Make sure you get the Titebond III and not II, as the II is not waterproof. Any home depot-type store or hardware store will carry it.


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## ChrisP (Apr 17, 2012)

Hey fellow Tinboaters, after working, reading and waffling, I decided on a direction and wanted to show the updates I have made after a couple of months. 

After getting my motor issues resolved I took the boat for a test run, everything went fine but the boat had a few more leak issues than I originally thought. I had wanted to leave the boat bare without paint inside or out but since I was going to Buck Rivets and then seal with 5200, I decided to paint both. But first I need a bow plate since I did not have one. A member of the site, "aeviaanah", agreed to fabricate one for me, he did a great job, the pic is of the plate unmounted. I highly recommend his work, he is a talented fabricator which I clearly am not!

I tackled the inside first and decided not fully paint (which I now think was a mistake) but held to a line which was slightly above the majority of the rivets. I prepped the inside, primed with Rustoleum self etch and then used Rustoleum Leak Seal to spray the rivets and seams. I do not know if this will help in the long run but I figured a flexible rubber sealant on the inside that was paint-able could not hurt and it has a nice non slip texture also. I then topped with an exterior latex based floor paint in grey and had them add some silica grit to give it a non-skid surface. How long it holds, we will see. If you look at the pictures, you can see the line I followed.

I had removed the foam from underneath the seats so I went the noodle route and tried two different ways of packing the noodles, in the front seat, I cut and wedged pieces trapping air pockets in the middle, the shape of the floor in the front was more conducive to this method. The back bench was flatter in the bottom so I went sideways in length. I left the middle alone for now because I am trying to carve out some storage there. I also took the time to mount the Pin bases for the seat. Since I had aluminum bench tops, I reinforced the bottoms with High Density Polyethylene cutting board material. I had thought about carpeting the tops but I remembered a lot of hooks snagging on the carpet so I left it alone for now. I have three seats planned but only mounted two bases until I deal with the middle seat storage issue.

Then on to the outside, I first acid etched, then I sealed each rivet head with a dollop of 5200. Used Rustoleum self etching primer and then followed it with a two tone paint job using Rustoleum oil based enamel in Gloss Smoke Gray for the bottom and Gloss Hunter Green for the sides to match my seats.

After all was dry, I re-attached the transom, mounted the Diamond plate on the rear and a steel bracket plate on the inside. I wanted to not loose the plug so I used some coated fishing wire and attached the plug to the transom. I also took some heavier cable and attached it to the transom knee, the other end will tie/clip to the motor so I never accidentally loose it overboard. I also wanted to mount the bilge drain, on my boat, I was able to mount it high on the left side end cap using an angle fitting without having to make a hole in the side.

Overall the project is progressing nicely, went fishing and got the first fish last week, it was a small mouth, followed by a nice crappie, and then a trout, my son caught a larger trout after that and then finally a nice two pound plus trout after that! Still need to do the electrical, add lights for interior and navigation, work the trailer, etc, etc, etc. Thanks to all for the ideas and guidance - Chris


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## novaman (Apr 17, 2012)

Beautiful =D> =D> =D> You've done a very nice job both in ingenuity, and execution, especially for a supposed "non-craftsman". I think You can lose that nametag, as what I see shows a lot of craftsmanship. Neat idea for the bilge outlet, and the retainer wire for the drain plug. 


"Aveviaanah", did an absolutely beautiful job on fabricating the bow plate. =P~ =P~ 

Keep up the good work on anything You continue to do, whether it's the boat or anything else . =D>


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## ChrisP (Apr 17, 2012)

Novaman, thanks for the compliments, I see from your thread that your doing some innovative customization yourself! Good luck and keep at it - Chris.


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## fool4fish1226 (Apr 28, 2012)

That looks great got any other updates???


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## ChrisP (Apr 30, 2012)

fool 4 fish - I am hoping to post some more progress pics in a couple of days. Finished up the middle seat, made a storage compartment, started the lighting and wiring.

Thanks - Chris


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## ChrisP (May 1, 2012)

So I got a few more items completed. 

1. I got a stern light that was a regular 12 volt bulb and attached it as shown, this was a cheapo from Walmart, I took out the bulb, added metal tape to the bottom of the holder to increase reflectivity and wired in a small 15 LED light strip. I used one that I got on line in a pack of four for about $8 dollars shipped. I coiled the strip in the socket and upward facing out and screwed the cover back on. The output is pretty good in my test, not sure though if it has two mile visibility but it will do.
2. Mounted the LED bow light, another one I got on clearance at Walmart for $15.
3. Mounted the base of the Bilge Pump using 5200.
4. I had already mounted my pedestal bases to the rear and front benches so the next step was to mount the one for the middle bench. My benches are aluminum, not very thick and have some curvature to them from use so I was concerned about mounting the pin bases directly to them fearing that they may tear out. I was originally going to back the benches with wood but one day I was at Orchard Supply and then had polyethylene cutting boards over a half inch thick for about $8 each. I bought three and used them as backing. My benches rivet on so I figured this is about maintenance free as you can get!
5. I also cut the hole for my Tempress Cam lock hatch into the bench as I installed the seat pedestal base. I also wanted to create a compartment for the hatch to contain whatever i decided to put in there and not have it rolling around the floor under the seat. I went and got some 1/4 inch PVC and created a box that is basically 9 x 9 x 18 inches long. One end is 9 x 9 while the other is 9 x 12 allowing for level under the curve of the boat. I then used Noodles to fill the rest of the compartment and finally used some reflective insulation sheets to fill the space around my compartment.
6. Mounted the bench and riveted everything in place, then installed the hatch using stainless steel screws and silicon per the manufacturer. 

Now I am ready to start wiring next so I am building a switch/fuse box and will post an update when that is done but am including my wiring diagram for anyone who is interested. I really enjoy doing this, it is nice to see something come together! Could not have done it without the site, ideas and help of the fantastic members here! Thanks for looking, appreciate any and all comments - Chris


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## ChrisP (May 1, 2012)

Wanted to add the electrical diagram to the thread.


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## Gators5220 (May 3, 2012)

What are you gonna power this fine looking jon boat with?


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## ChrisP (May 3, 2012)

Gators5220 - I am "under" powering it just a little with a 1985 Honda 100 four stroke 10 HP. I got the motor for $600, had a few minor problems orginally like water and oil in the gear case but resolved everything and the engine runs great now. I was originally going for a two stroke but I troll mostly so I went with the four. I need to clock the boat using a GPS, it scooted well enough with me and three teenagers!


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## DaveInGA (May 8, 2012)

Chris,

Your project looks good and is coming along nicely. How about a pic or two with the outboard mounted?


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## Kismet (May 8, 2012)

You did a great Job ! 

Damn, man, come do my boat. I'll leave food and coffee in the fridge. Call me when it is done, ok?


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## ChrisP (May 8, 2012)

DaveInGA, Kismet, Thanks for the compliments! I will post a pic of the engine mounted this weekend, I was just testing the charging circuit output, changed the fuel filter and a few small maintanence items before I start wiring this weekend. Rebuilding/customizing has turned out to be really fun and rewarding so Kismet, be glad to help you but I need to finish mine before I can work yours, trout season just opened last weekend here! :LOL2:


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## fool4fish1226 (May 8, 2012)

Coming along nicely, when is the maiden voyage


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## Dman23 (May 8, 2012)

I much enjoyed reading your mod so far. I really like the hull and you really made it look nice. With the top few inches flairing out i bet it keeps any spash while driving down. Absolutely love your bow plate. I dont think i have seen a factory one that nice!!! You have really made an old boat look and work wonderfully!


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## ChrisP (May 10, 2012)

Dman23, Fool4Fish1226. thanks for the feedback! Maiden Voyage was completed already, caught a mix of fish, 1 small mouth, 1 Crappie, 3 trout and most importantly, No Leaks! The credit for the bow plate goes to another board member Aveviaanah, he did a great job and yes, the full length splash rail and flarings do keep the spray outside. I have still not been able to find any info on who made the boat for Sears, if you look at pictures of the Sea Nymph below, it definately has some of their hull features along with Valco interior and benches, whomever built it, they did it right! This weekend brings the wiring and then next weekend fishing! Thanks again - Chris


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## nlittle (Mar 15, 2013)

How many pool noodles did you use and do you know the boyancy per compared to the sheets from HD?


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## coreythompson (Aug 4, 2014)

fantastic work man cant wait to see the updates...


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