# 1966 evinrude 18hp won't start



## justindan55 (Jun 14, 2015)

Hello all, 
I have been trying to resurrect an old motor that has been sitting for 5 years. I replaced the coils, fuel lines inside and out. Still won't start. Just cause I was worried I didn't do the coils right I sprayed a tiny bit of starter fluid and got one kinda detonation and smoke out the exhaust. I didn't try more because I am scared to run the motor without oil. So my thinking is a carburetor rebuild. Does this sound right? Anything else I'm missing? This motor used to run real strong and i really want it to run again so any advice would be much appreciated. Thank you.


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## Johnny (Jun 14, 2015)

> *scared to run the motor without oil*



do you have a 2 or 4 stroke motor ?

if it is a 4 stroke, put some oil in it, see if it will catch.
a motor that has sat for 5 years definitely needs a carb rebuild !!!!
I have a 9.9 that has been sitting for 7 years (or more) that I will
have the same issues with. 
without even pulling the rope for the first time, I will remove the plugs,
put in a little penetrating oil to lube and loosen the rings.
Then, a complete carb rebuild kit. And probably a new thermostat.
And definitely drop the foot and put in a new water pump impeller.
Then, REPLACE all fuel lines - - - not inspect them, REPLACE them.
clean all wiring and connectors.
Put a little 30w oil in each cylinder, and pull it over a few times.
Put in new plugs and hope for the best.......
That is also what I would suggest for your motor.

and :WELCOME: to Tin Boats


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## justindan55 (Jun 14, 2015)

Thank you. I will be ordering a new carb kit today. YouTube makes it look not too difficult.


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## Johnny (Jun 14, 2015)

also, if you don't have one already, a *Shop Repair Manual* for that motor
is highly recommended to maintain your motor in tip top shape as well as
dependable. Some are available here on this forum - or E-Bay.


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## Charger25 (Jun 16, 2015)

might wanna pull the fly wheel and check the points I believe the gap is 20 ths. should be stamped on the underside of the fly wheel. get a spray bottle and fill it with the proper gas /oil mix and use that instead of starting fliud. While ya got the fly wheel off check all the wires for loose or frayed connections. I'm starting to sound like Pappy. :LOL2: just messing with ya Pap


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## cajuncook1 (Jun 17, 2015)

- There is a process for evaluating the motor. If you are willing to take guidance we can help you out to determine what is going on with your motor. 

* First thing is to check the compression yourself. Most auto places will loan out a compression tester for a deposit and money is refunding when you return it. Napa, Auto Zone, O'Reilys...etc.

*Here is a video to show you how you can test your compression.
*

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PyCw4SiuT2I

Please report back your finds on compression.

*
**Second phase of diagnostics is to evaluate the ignition. *



*
***Third phase of diagnostics is to evaluate the ignition.*




By putting the spark plug against the engine block is not adequate assessment of the health of the ignition system. You need to get a spark checker and gap it to at least 1/4 inch. The spark should be able to consistently jump the gap and be strong blue snapping spark.

*Here is a bunch of information that you can read and do the repairs yourself and know what is going on*.

*Here is some information that will help you evaluate your ignition system with the flywheel popped off.*


*Harmonic balance flywheel puller video*

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nz1st4XnsX4


Your going to need to inspect your point, condenser and coils. They are located under the flywheel. Hopefully all you need to do is clean and regap your points and you might be in business. Still check your coils and condensers and plug wires.






*Here are two link to show you how to test your coils and condensers.*

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KT8rk5QWgS0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6eSXYmENDY




*How to replace your coils, points and condenser.* Please take digital pictures as you go, so it will help you return everything back in the right order. Keep cheap zip lock bags available to put your parts in so you don't lose them. They are small.


Here is a diagram of a generic OMC (Johnson/Evinrudle/Gale) ignition assembly. You will have to remove the coil designated for the top cylinder and put the oil wicker in. It should be already be coated with a very light oil. (not grease). The purpose of the oil wicker is to lightly lubricate the outside riding surface of the cam so the point shoes do not prematurely wear. If you look at the points they have little shoes that ride along the cam. Please make sure the (breaker)points cam is on the correct side or the ignition will be out of timing. It should have the word [highlight]top[/highlight] machine written on the side facing up. 







FYI: You can only set(gap) one set of points at a time. Put the flywheel nut back on(turn with a wrench or ratchet clockwise) to allow you turn the crankshaft. *(Please remove both spark plugs to make it easier to turn the crankshaft and prevent accidental starting) *

You gap the point to 0.020 when the point shoes is at the top(high point of the cam). It should have a mark along with the word top. Then you will turn clockwise to the next set of point 180 degrees and set those points the same way. You will notice that the point of the previous set will be closed and when you come around again they will open up. *** When they are open no current is allow through. This is how you set your timing with the points.*** 

When you go to set the point's gap. Very gently snug the anchor screw, then adjust the gap with adjusting screw and the feeler gauge until the feeler gauge is sliding through with slight resistance only. Then tighten the anchor screw. Repeat procedure with second set of points. Please make sure your hands are clean and the feeler gauge is clean, because oil on the points can foul them up and create resistance....poor or no no spark. ALways use a spark check to evaluate spark. It should jump minimum 1/4 inch. Blue sharp snappy spark.

Here is a picture of a spark check...Cheap $6







Here is a picture of how to tell which wire is going to the correct cylinder. Thanks to Garry for providing the picture on other post.








If your using the existing wires then cut about 1/4 inch of end going the coil, so you have clean un-oxidized copper contacting the spiking in the coil. Twist the end of the spark plug wire onto the coil spike. If you have replaced the wires, make sure they are 7mm copper metal core and not the automobile stuff.

***** Please make sure two things*****

1.) Make sure all the wires are tucked away under the flywheel and not rubbing up against the cam or crank, because with will eventually get damage and create a short, then no spark!! 

2.) Make sure the coil heels (ends) are evenly lined up with the mounting boss.

Here are some pictures. (Compliments of JBJennings..nice fella)











Lining up the coil heel with the mounting boss prevent damage of the coils and the flywheel magnet, prevent rubbing as the flywheel turns.

[highlight]*** Make sure the throttle is advanced to that start position***[/highlight]


Here is another picture that Garry (thanks Garry!!) supplied on another post with some modification.







Both diagrams, should answer your questions.




Here is some you tube videos that can help you diagnosis and properly setting your ignition and clean set your carburetor


Here a bunch of videos that can help you along. They are long and detail, but I purposely made them that way, so someone new to motors would feel comfortable. So, I apologize if they are boring. I originally made those videos to help a guy who had little mechanic knowledge.

*Here is a link on how to remove a flywheel.*

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nz1st4XnsX4


*Here is a bunch of links to evaluate and repair your ignition*

If your looking for a help cleaning your points and testing your ignition, then here are some YouTube videos that can help.

Not professional videos, but they can help guide you through ignition diagnostics and repair. The motor in the video is a 1968 Johnson 6hp.

Hopefully will give you a visual and help you some.

Evinrude Gale and Johnson ignition video 1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTN8Ag_aj-8

Evinrude Gale and Johnson ignition video 2

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7A6d8me0Gw

Evinrude Gale and Johnson ignition video 3

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAlT32NnTJ0

Evinrude Gale and Johnson ignition video 4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=re6FgcB_Yok

Evinrude Gale and Johnson ignition video 5

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ClGt6xHnb94

Evinrude Gale and Johnson ignition video 6

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=taaSzp1Ev-0

Evinrude Gale and Johnson ignition video 7

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p7w0xW48YCU

*
Here is a bunch of links to help you with your carburetor.*

Here are some videos on how to clean and apply a carburetor kit for an OMC high speed fix jet carburetor. Displayed motors are 1968 Johnson 6hp and 1964 Evinrude 18hp outboards. The videos are very long and over detailed, but I want to help those who are new/novices to motor repair. Again, I am no expert or certified marine mechanic, but I am offering video to help.


OMC fix jet carburetors part 1 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7MmDOaOQyQg

OMC fix jet carburetors part 2 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PuByx8J-EfY

OMC fix jet carburetors part 3 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FpivbGEv0wM

OMC fix jet carburetors part 4 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-aWICvsQZQ8

OMC fix jet carburetors part 5 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JqB6PLqeTI4

OMC fix jet carburetors part 6 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HS5J_AxJrAY

OMC fix jet carburetors part 7 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iq_2RfWjQ28

OMC fix jet carburetors part 8 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-lXIVBX_UF4

OMC fix jet carburetors part 9 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-nA_4YmNgt8

OMC fix jet carburetors part 10 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=94lcU7y2P9Y


*Almost forgot to post an accessory video regarding a timing fixture. You can certain set the points with a feeler gauge as shown in the previous videos, but I just wanted to add this to the list*.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eNK2TEeQQv0



*Carburetor Adjustment for idle/low speed needle. * Your carburetor has a high speed fix jet, so no adjustment. It just needs to stay clean.

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently(turn in clockwise), then open 1-1/2 turns(turn out counter clockwise). Do not tighten or force the slow idle needle shut or it may damage the needle.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in (clockwise). Wait a few seconds (10 to 15 sec) for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in(clockwise), the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again (turn your throttle slightly slower) to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out(turn out counter clockwise) the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.


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## Johnny (Jun 18, 2015)

CajunCook - - - NICE writeup !!! =D>


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## justindan55 (Jun 19, 2015)

Rebuilt the carb and it was bad. No wonder it wouldn't start. Got her running and smoothed out after some adjustment. My local boat shop didn't have my plugs in stock so I just tried on old ones. Very smokey and when I pulled the plugs after running for a few minutes the lower cylinder plug was oily. since I'm mostly going to be running slow I was thinking about getting a hotter plug that they had. My buddy is coming over in a couple of days so I'm trying to get her running better before then so I can say I did it all by myself. I think my gas was mixed strong due to sitting on the side of the house with the vent loose. Going to get new gas. All new coils so I hope I'm cool there because that flywheel sucked to get off. Thanks for all the info y'all gave me. You all rock. Between y'all and YouTube  I should have this baby running smooth by the time Winter gets here and i have to park it. lol


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