# Project: Shoebox - 1764 Fisher FINISHED!!



## Shoedawg (Feb 14, 2014)

Hi,

This is my first post, and I found this site after doing some research about Jon Boat mods. So far I am liking what I am seeing! :-D I am a ROOKIE, brand new boat owner, so please go easy on me.

I have just purchased a Modified V Jon boat with a 50HP Mercury. Here are the specs:

Make/Model: A 2000 Fisher Dominator Modified-V 
Length: 17ft
Motor: 2000 Mercury 50ECPTO (50 HP)
Trailer: 2000 Trailerstar
I do not know the weight limit (and could not find the sticker on the boat that tells you)

I purchased the boat, trailer & motor for $900. The guy selling it used it for duck hunting and fishing. It was last used in Jan 2014, after duck season was over. His wife hates the boat and she wanted him to upgrade. Seller said he can get it into 4" on water.

Here are some pictures of it:







As you can see, she needs some work. I would like to add a deck to the front, redo the back and replace the flooring. It does have a live-well. The boat is already painted with a wetlands camo (a plus), and the prop is a year old. The bilge pump was installed in 2010. Also the throttle (though working but has some issues) will need to be replaced. 

Any suggestions or what you guys would do with this. I would like it to be a combo hunting/fishing boat.
I don't know all the terminology yet, but its widest point (measure from the top rail to rail) is about 66".

Shoe


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## hawghunters (Feb 14, 2014)

Looks like you really got a deal. I would say the biggest issue is the floor, but it sounds like you already planned on addressing that. Take a look at what others have done to similar boats and see what sparks your interest. And of course show us how it goes


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## Shoedawg (Feb 14, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=341855#p341855 said:


> hawghunters » 14 Feb 2014, 19:23[/url]"]Looks like you really got a deal. I would say the biggest issue is the floor, but it sounds like you already planned on addressing that. Take a look at what others have done to similar boats and see what sparks your interest. And of course show us how it goes



Thanks. Do you know how I can get the dimensions for the boat. Such as the floor width, and width of the rails (sorry still trying to get the terminology down). I read on one sticky thread, that one needs to be careful about how high they put their decking, but this depends on the width of the boat.

Shoe


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## 1957Crestliner12 (Feb 14, 2014)

Inspect/repair/replace the engine control, discard the wood floor and your done.

If the engine runs and the boat doesn't leak like a sieve you did good.

Congrat's rookie...

Rod
Oriental, NC


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## Shoedawg (Feb 14, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=341859#p341859 said:


> 1957Crestliner12 » 14 Feb 2014, 19:48[/url]"]Inspect/repair/replace the engine control, discard the wood floor and your done.
> 
> Rod
> Oriental, NC




Hey Rod,

Funny you bring up the throttle control. According to the manual I got with the boat, its a Commander 3000 Classic. The seller said it works but is "funky". He had it installed several years ago, and the installer hooked the controls backwards! So up is reverse, and back is forward. Plus the trim switch is not working (seller thinks it may be a short).

The seller also mentioned that to get it into neutral, you have to stick a screw driver into the bottom (where the circle is on the throttle) and play with it.

I am just going to replace it, if the price is right.



Here is the throttle


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## 1957Crestliner12 (Feb 14, 2014)

Get a used Merc control off of eBay and you're set...

Rod
Oriental, NC


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## kfa4303 (Feb 15, 2014)

welcome to tinboats. Nice score on the boat. If the motor runs, $900 is a great deal. These old tinboats are basically a blank slate. Just a few rules to remember: NEVER use pressure treated lumber as it will lead to galvanic corrosion of the hull. Instead, use high quality, exterior grade plywood and seal it with either 2-part epoxy, Spar Urethane or Exterior paint. You'll then want to mount it to the hull using either aluminum rivets and/or stainless steel hardware dipped in a bit of 3M 5200 marine caulk. Any bracing you may need for the decks can be made from 2"x2" lumber and/or aluminum angle. I would also suggest adding as much safety foam below decks as possible. The pink/blue closed-cell insulation boards work quite well. The best thing is that you can get everything you need, except epoxy, at any Lowes/HD. Good luck. Holler if you get stuck.


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## Shoedawg (Feb 15, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=341895#p341895 said:


> kfa4303 » 15 Feb 2014, 08:49[/url]"]welcome to tinboats. Nice score on the boat. If the motor runs, $900 is a great deal. These old tinboats are basically a blank slate. Just a few rules to remember: NEVER use pressure treated lumber as it will lead to galvanic corrosion of the hull. Instead, use high quality, exterior grade plywood and seal it with either 2-part epoxy, Spar Urethane or Exterior paint. You'll then want to mount it to the hull using either aluminum rivets and/or stainless steel hardware dipped in a bit of 3M 5200 marine caulk. Any bracing you may need for the decks can be made from 2"x2" lumber and/or aluminum angle. I would also suggest adding as much safety foam below decks as possible. The pink/blue closed-cell insulation boards work quite well. The best thing is that you can get everything you need, except epoxy, at any Lowes/HD. Good luck. Holler if you get stuck.




Kfa4303,
Thanks. The motor runs good. We started it up for a few seconds in the lot. To a look inside and it was clean and well maintained. Seller just used the boat this January. I have seen the boat go out a few times (I live on a small Air Force base) to the lake.

I have been running through the threads for info, and what you point out is what I have seen. I did see a few guys use aluminum ladders for their decking support. Been looking at Craigslist and found a few ladders for cheap. I have a lot to learn about rivets and aluminum angle and the like. Lots of great ideas on this forum. I am writing down some stuff I like and what I need to research.

I plan on getting this project started soon, and will open up a thread, detailing the adventure.

I do plan on getting a Trolling Motor, replacing the throttle controller, and figure out how to repair the console.

Shoe


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## Captain Ahab (Feb 15, 2014)

*You started the motor up with any water ??????*


Time to replace the impeller at very least 

That is about the worst thing you could do

It would really scare me if a seller agreed to do that or suggested it - makes me think he has likely done it a few time previously


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## doc1976 (Feb 15, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=341933#p341933 said:


> Captain Ahab » 15 Feb 2014, 13:40[/url]"]*You started the motor up with any water ??????*
> 
> 
> Time to replace the impeller at very least
> ...



Yes, never start it out of water. At the very least use the ears that you attach to the garden hose. Besides that, good job on the buy. Half the fun with older boats is fixing them up the way you want them. My suggestion is don't rush it, do a lot of research before you start. Consider materials, construction methods and very important, layout. You have a good chunk of space to work with, so plan out storage and fishing decks well. Go to the local boat shop and look at the new boats to get some ideas for the layout. Don't cut corners on materials, you don't want to do it again in a couple years. If there is a bass pro shops in your area go check out the trackers, they are similar in shape to yours


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## Shoedawg (Feb 15, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=341933#p341933 said:


> Captain Ahab » 15 Feb 2014, 14:40[/url]"]*You started the motor up with any water ??????*
> 
> 
> Time to replace the impeller at very least
> ...




No, no, no! We used the suction cups that you attached a water hose to and run water. We towed the boat to the lots spigot and used it. I am new to this, but I knew better than to start it up without water to cool the engine. I should have clarified this. Sorry about that.

Good advice on visiting a boat store. There are ton of them in Boise.


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## thill (Feb 24, 2014)

Starting up "for a few seconds" isn't going to hurt the impeller... But it's ALWAYS a good idea to replace the impeller on any boat where you don't know when the last one was replaced. 

Generally, if you boat in clean water, replace them every 3 years. If in mud a lot, make sure to flush the engine thoroughly, and change the impeller every year. At least inspect it every year.

A little trick I learned from our master mechanic is to put your thumbnail in the pee stream about 6" away from the motor when at idle. If the water spatters and flies everywhere, the impeller is fine. If the water "sticks" to your finger, replace it! I've tested this theory several times, and it's correct every time.

Nice snag for $900! At least where I live, it would be. Best wishes for a quick, clean restoration.

-TH


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## Captain Ahab (Feb 24, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=342699#p342699 said:


> thill » Mon Feb 24, 2014 5:53 am[/url]"]
> A little trick I learned from our master mechanic is to put your thumbnail in the pee stream about 6" away from the motor when at idle. If the water spatters and flies everywhere, the impeller is fine. If the water "sticks" to your finger, replace it! I've tested this theory several times, and it's correct every time.
> 
> .
> ...



Neat trick - thanks gonna try it


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## surfman (Feb 24, 2014)

Nice snag for $900, looks like it has floatation foam in the sides of the boat, I know they call that a modified V but it is really just a flat bottom jon boat with a pointed bow. A modified V has a V hull and is only flat at the stern. They usually have a more rounded bottom but that is a fine boat. Lot’s of good suggestions on here so far.


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## Shoedawg (Feb 25, 2014)

Thanks for the inputs. I have done a lot of research and taking notes from the forum. There is a lot of great information to comb through here. 

Lately I have been concentrating on aluminum framing. I am pretty handy when it comes to woodwork, but really do not want to use wood for my framing, due to the excessive weight. Using aluminum would lessen the weight, but I am still learning about how to use it.

There are many types of grades like 6061, 6063, etc and I am trying to figure out what it all means when it all comes together. 

I am thinking of going with a combination of Square tubing, Angle, Sheet and maybe Round pipe aluminum. Not sure what I am going to use to help fasten it all together. 

I know to use rivets, but what type (i.e. hallowed, solid) and the size? And I am not going to use a hand rivet gun, but getting a pneumatic one. I see Hardware Freight has a decently priced one.

Link here https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/riveters/1-4-quarter-inch-air-hydraulic-riveter-98898.html

I do know not to mix different metals together (like copper and aluminum). I am going into Boise tomorrow 
morning to see what the scrap yards have on hand. So far I have seen new aluminum for about $1.50-$2.00 a foot.

Shoe


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## Loggerhead Mike (Feb 25, 2014)

Sweet deal


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## thill (Feb 26, 2014)

3/16 Arrow rivets from HDepot work well and are stong, especially if you can get the washers on from the back before crimping.

My hand riveter works well for this size. Have never tried the pneumatic gun, seems like a bit of overkill, but that might be a fun toy to play with!

-TH


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## Shoedawg (May 2, 2014)

**TO MODS: Please move this tread to the Projects thread if this is not the right place for it, as I will be updating it frequently. I do not know how to move it. Thank you.**

Well it’s been a long time waiting and I finally got started on my tin boat mod. I have been busy with other projects and getting a garden ready for the wife, but now its focus time on the boat.

Day 1 (April 30, 2014)

First things first. Does she FLOAT???

A friend and I took the boat out to see how well it floated on the water, and how well the motor ran. She floats great and is very stable. I do not have the measurements of how far she is from gunwale to gunwale but I believe she is about 43" on the bottom and 63” from rail to rail wide.

We started the motor, and it kicked over and ran for a few seconds but then would die. After several attempts of this, we took off the cowling to see what the issue maybe was.

Spark-plugs were in great shape. No leaks or ripped/torn rubber hoses. Everything was working mechanically smooth. After several more tries, the battery died. Bummer. What to do now? We need a Jump Pack and I don’t have. Hey, maybe that old timer pulling that skiff over there has one. So using my friendly charm God has gifted me and not good looks, I go ask the old timer if he has one.

“I sure do!” he says. He even came over and took a look to see what the problem was. He knew what he was doing. He began right away checking everything, pulling plugs and checking for spark, grabbing this and that. He then ask for a cup, which I had an empty Mickey D’s plastic pop cup I just got done drinking. Cow crap is just falling into place!

He pulls out the primer tube and starts to pump gas into the cup. “Well I think we found your problem. Looks like you got a ton of water in your gas.” He showed me the cup and there indeed was a lot of water (sediment on the bottom) in the fuel. It was best just to siphon it all out, and clean out the tank. Looks like I am not going to be able to see how she moves on the water.
I thank the old timer, as we load up and head home. Now the endeavor begins. I've got to get that fuel tank clean.

As soon as I get home I start the siphon process. It takes two and a half 5 gallon tanks to get get rid of all the bad fuel. The fuel tank is HUGE for a boat like this.



The fuel cap is filthy and may need replaced. I plan on cleaning it. Lots of dirt going into the tank.



Here is the fuel tank indicator arm gauge (or whatever you call it). The rubber gasket is worn and dry rotted. I take it off and....



get this!!! It needs replaced. No wonder there was crude and water in the tank.



Here is the arm after removal. The fuel gauge works and reads just fine on the console. Should I clean it or leave as is?



Next, I remove the fuel lines to get the fuel tank out.



This clip is holding the fuel tank in place. There were two beat up plastic battery boxes in the way that had to go as well. I am using a Cats Claw to remove the rusty rivets.



Lots of dirt and grim built up on the tank. I didn't realize how BIG the tank actually was. I am guessing its a 20 Gallon tank.



A quick job of the pressure washer handles the grim and blasts it to oblivion. The left side of the tank is clean while the right is untouched.



After washing, I flush the tank out a few times. There was crude and dirt coming out during the flush. But she is all clean now of dirty fuel. She is ready to hold clean fuel. The tank will sit dry and out of the boat to give me room to clean the fuel tank compartment and give me access to clean the rest of the compartment. She's going to be sitting alone for awhile.




The fuel tank compartment. Lots of dirt, crude and grim built up over the years. Its gotta go.



Done for now. Next is to start tearing up the deck and cleaning. Stay tuned!

Shoe


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## Kismet (May 2, 2014)

For your future use, you can buy an inexpensive funnel which separates any water from gasoline via a screen in the funnel. They come in different sizes for varying flow rates. Handy for those of use who don't dump fuel when the next season starts.

Looks like you purchased a great deal! Nice work.
=D>


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## Shoedawg (May 3, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=350974#p350974 said:


> Kismet » 02 May 2014, 11:22[/url]"]For your future use, you can buy an inexpensive funnel which separates any water from gasoline via a screen in the funnel. They come in different sizes for varying flow rates. Handy for those of use who don't dump fuel when the next season starts.
> 
> Looks like you purchased a great deal! Nice work.
> =D>




I'll look into those funnels you spoke about. I have a pretty large tank. The guy I bought the boat from said he only filled it up at the beginning of the season and didn't have to refuel it at all during the season. I am going to have to take a look at the fuel lines and fuel filter to make sure all that crappy fuel is not in the motor.


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## Shoedawg (May 5, 2014)

Day 2 (May 4th 2014)

Goal: Remove the rotted deck and clean.

Got started around 10 this morning to start tearing out the deck. It took me and the wife about 8hrs to remove the deck, console, carpet, and drivers seat compartment. The deck was all rotted out and the screws were all rusted, stripped and nasty. Had to remove the panels on the side as well.

First we started with the drivers compartment. The steering console is to be removed as well along with those panels on the side.



There was carpet in the compartment that was in under the drivers bench seat. I had to completely remove it all to get access to the screws that hold the compartment unit down to the deck.



After removal of the bench compartment, the left and right side panels were next.




Both panels along the side of the boat were dead space. There was no foam between them. I am thinking I could do three things here:

1. Use the dead space for storage
2. Put foam boards between the dead space (and use some it for storage)
3. Remove the panels completely (not what I want to do, but an option)

Any suggestions or ideas??? 



Next was removing the rotted decking. I used a Stanley Wonder Bar (flat/thin pry bar) that is 21" long, a hammer, cats-claw and a body saw to remove the deck. I used the saw to make a thin cut line on the deck and snapped the deck with my hands, pulling up on it. Some of the wood just disintegrated in my hands. That body saw made it a lot easier to remove the deck.





I now needed to remove the console. This was a PITA!!! I had to remove the steering column, rip up carpet, and remove wiring, while documenting and taking pictures of everything I removed. It took some time to do, but I would have forgotten how it went back in place. I place the parts in zip-lock bags, label them and take a picture from where they got removed and need to return. It will save me time in the long run.



Underneath the console. The electrical wiring looks to be in good shape and the gauges work, but I am on the fence about replacing all the wiring with new marine grade type wiring.



The fuse box is definitively going to get replace.



This is the arm for the steering unit.



Here is the console removed. Now I can get rid of the rest of the deck.



The front deck was next in line to go.



Front deck is coming out, slow and steady.



Here is the front after removal and before clean up.



A lot of dirt was on the bottom of the boat. I am thinking I removed 5 lbs of it.



All that crappy wood is out!! Time to ShopVac the rest of the crap out of it and give it a good pressure wash.



All cleaned out and washed. This was of the biggest hurdle (so far, knock on wood) to get over and to move on to the re-mod/restore.



It was a long day and hot, but worth the effort and time. Next is the back of the boat. Need to remove some old top decking and get in the back storage areas, live well and battery compartments to clean those up. One step at a time.


Shoe


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## Kismet (May 5, 2014)

Wow, you put in a lot of work...or took out a lot of debris!

Hope the rest goes smoothly.


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## thill (May 7, 2014)

Nice demo job and documentation.

Whatever is working well, leave, IF it will be easy to replace later. If something that will be difficult, then replace it now, while it's easy to do, especially if you think it will fail soon.

Keep the momentum going, and the project should go quickly. If you let it sit, and become distracted, it can be hard to get motivated again.

Keep up the good work!

-TH


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## Shoedawg (May 21, 2014)

Day 3 (May 12, 2014)

A little late updating (Been busy with other stuff, like life). I also posted a Glue Removal Guide which can been seen here: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=34344


Here is what I got done so far.

Goal: Remove the crappy rhino liner paint job and carpet glue on all removed panels. Pre-wash/Post-Wash panels.

SO, after getting the deck tore up and the panels removed, it was time to strip the crappy paint and 14 year old clue off the panels.

Here are the long side panels with the crappy paint and some carpet glue on them. The stuff needs to GO!




I start with a pre-wash (using my pressure washer) to clean as much of the grime, paint and glue off the panels.




A pressure washer helps somewhat to knock loose the old carpet glue. My washer only does 1750psi @ 1.5GPMs. If I had a higher psi and a PW that could put out hot water, I think it would of knocked most, if not all, of that crap off.




Here is a panel where the paint needs to be stripped. Jascos Expoxy/Paint Remover is what I will be using to do the job.





Using Jascos Epoxy/Paint Remover makes quick work of removing the paint. (It also works great on glue! See my Glue Removal Guide. Link is posted above.) Here I am letting it "set up" before removing it with a putty knife.




It makes quick work and does a fine job stripping the paint.





Removing more paint.




I got the wife involved to help out. Its nice to have an extra hand to speed things up and a "good excuse" to spend some quality time together.  





Here is the results of what the Jascos can do. Just need to finish the rest of it and the back side.




After some time stripping, here are two panels done. Just need to clean the far right panel up a bit. There was still a little bit of glue left on it.



Here is the Drivers Seat Compartment. I had to remove the piano hinge to get some old carpet out from underneath it.




Here is the backside/bottom of the Drivers Seat Compartment. Jascos did a great job of removing it all. It was a PIA though, to get in between the sides of the compartments inside to remove the old glue.




Another view.




More glue!!! :roll: :roll: :roll: 





This panel is what holds the throttle controller.




Cleaning up the panels with Acetone.




Well after a Loooong day of work, we finally got all the panels done! =D> =D> =D> 





Next up is the back of the boat. I have to tear up three small rotted out plywood decks, remove three lids (and remove the paint), remove the bow deck and strip the paint off that's left on the inside of the boat. 

Be sometime around the first week of June before I get another post update. Got family coming into town and picking out a German Short-haired Pointer to be my 2nd mate!!


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## Shoedawg (Aug 3, 2014)

It’s been awhile since I posted an update. I haven’t touched my boat in about 2 months due to being gone, having a new puppy to train and stay out of trouble and the 100+ degree days here in southwestern high desert Idaho!!

But I did get a sample of Hydroturf in the mail, and did some testing on it to see if I would use it on my tin. Below is what I did to see how this stuff may hold up.

*HydroTurf Sample Test Review*

I contacted Hydro-turf (https://hydroturf.com/) to request a sample of their product. It came in about 10 days. Deciding if I wanted to install Hydro-turf into my Jon, I ran some small tests on the sample, seeing how it may hold up. Here’s what I threw at it.

Here is the sample as is, untouched, not muddied. I put it on the floor and stepped on it with my heel and ball of my feet. It was quite comfortable. I did measure the thickness with my digital calipers and it measured out 5.30mm. They are sold in 6.0mm. They do sell underpads that are in ranges of 9mm, 18mm, and 26mm. If you got the matt (6.0mm) and the underpad (9mm) to make your feet more comfortable, you would have thickness of 14mm. That is a little over ½ and inch. *(Note: Disregard the fishing hooks for now)*


Next I threw some dirt on it.



Here I just brushed it off using my hand. It came clean pretty nicely. If you were to use a fox tail (another name for a dust pan brush) it would clean it off the dirt on the mat fairly easy I think. A shop vac would do just as good of a job as well.



After brushing of the dirt I ran some water over it, using the water sprayer in my kitchen sink to mimic the water hose I would use to hose down and clean the mat. As you can see, the water gets trap in the tunnels, but hardly absorbs into the matt.



With the mat wet, I smashed some dirt into it, pounding my hand into the mat and dirt to mimic the pressure of a foot, trampling it all down. I then washed it off again using my kitchen sink sprayer. It did a fine job of cleaning up the dirt. I again wetted it and really smashed some dirt into, but let it dry with the dirt on it. After drying, I brushed it off on one side to see how clean it would get, then rinsed again. Here is what the results were.



I next cleaned it and threw it outside while wet. I wanted to time it of how long it took to dry when wet. It was overcast skies and the temperature was about 88 degrees. It took about 12 minutes for the mat to be completely dry.

Now what about fish hooks getting caught in the mat? Here I taped up the sample to a board and used three different size hooks to test it out.

The first test was the big hook. I tied it to some fishing line and drug it across the mat. It didn’t hook.



Next I deliberately pushed the hook into the mat to see if I could pull it out. It came out just fine, unlike carpet. In fact the hook caught on the tape more, while not hooking the hydroturf.

I then decided to put the hook into the mat and pull on the line (as some of us have done a cast to find our hook stuck in the carpet). Giving it a good tug (like a cast) the mat did rip a little bit as seen here. I did play with the tear a little bit to see if it would tear more and easily, and surprisingly it did not.



Next pushed a treble hook in the turf. It was very easy to remove.



It did leave a very small hole/tear in the material, but you can barely even see it. The hole sits just below the hook. I added an arrow to help locate it.



Next I took the smaller treble and ran it deep into the turf. It did gouge it. But remember I did it initially to see how it would rip and hold up. It was a small gouge and would hold up.



So far I like this product. It seems to hold up well to hooks (I deliberately wanted to see how it would hold up to fish hook) but do not think it will catch as bad as my aggressive hooking test. It cleans VERY well, dries fast and seems like it would be comfortable on the feet, barefoot or not. I am going to get a underpad to increase comfort as well as reduce the noise level in my boat. Overall, for the small sample I had, I think HyrdoTurf is going into my boat.

Hope to be working on my boat again very soon. Still have the aft side to tear apart.

Shoe


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## Kismet (Aug 3, 2014)

Shoedawg:

Some listings on water separators on Amazon. For smaller outboards, I just got a funnel with limited flow rate, but there are entire in line systems.

Best of luck.

https://www.google.com/search?q=amazon+outboard+motor+fuel+water+filter&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&client=firefox-a&channel=sb


Have fun, be safe.


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## Shoedawg (Aug 3, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=362157#p362157 said:


> Kismet » 03 Aug 2014, 18:15[/url]"]Shoedawg:
> 
> Some listings on water separators on Amazon. For smaller outboards, I just got a funnel with limited flow rate, but there are entire in line systems.
> 
> ...



Thanks for the Info!! :wink:


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## Shoedawg (Apr 29, 2015)

Man its been a long time since I posted. Been busy with work, school and life. But I finally got the boat project started again. It laid untouched all fall and winter long, but I am determined to get this thing finished by Pheasant season this year [-o< 

Here we go!!!!
Finally got the boat into the garage. I was building a workbench and some cabinets to make some room for the boat to fit. Now I can keep it there without having to haul it back to the RV/Boat lot. (I live on a Air Force base, and leaving a boat, RV, etc out on the street or your drive way is a big NO NO, and makes it a PIA to move it back and forth to the lot and the house to work on, hence the garage the set up).



First thing to go was the front deck. I am going to use Aluminum in the entire boat. The crappy plywood I had removed, has convinced me to do so.



After removal.



The back area was next. It consist of the live-well, two storage area's and the battery and fuel tank area.



I was surprised to find foam under the plywood and what held the plastic storage area. I am on the fence of either keeping the foam to use as support for the plastic bins as well as to support the decking I plan to put there. Any thoughts on this?



After removing the bin, I discovered water underneath. If I keep the foam, I need to come up with a way to seal the storage bins. I used a wet-vac to get the water out.



This is the inside of the fuel and battery compartment. I pulled the aluminum floor out and cleaned it up, but its so beat up and flimsy, I may just replace the darn thing. I did clean it up a little with a pressure washer, but it still looks bad and some pitting too, I think.



Next up was removing the crappy, thin aluminum bracing that ran across the floor with some foam in the way. I tested to see if the foam was allowing some drainage and it was not.



One side removed and the other side was next.



After cleaning up the floor and removing the foam, I flushed and washed as much dirt out of the boat as I could. It took me a few hours to get the back on the boat fairy flushed out. Years of dirt and crap had built up and collected over the years. Here she is all clean.



Next up is removing some old glue and paint around the boat. Stay tuned.


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## fool4fish1226 (Apr 29, 2015)

Nice looking project you got going there thanks for sharing


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## Tallpine (Apr 29, 2015)

Nice work Shoedawg. That is going to be a cool boat when finished.


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## Shoedawg (Apr 30, 2015)

Didn't get much done as I wanted to yesterday. Had to run into town to get Acetone and some Jasco for the boat. I did get a start removing some of the paint though. Plan today is to tackle the gunwale and the inside.

The gunwale with the crappy Rhino Liner. The guy who did this didn't do it properly.





Old paint and glue.



Just starting it up. Jasco's kicks arse for removing this crap easily.



More to follow.


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## Shoedawg (Apr 30, 2015)

Got a lot done today  Finished up the gunwales, the braces on the hull wall, the front of the live-well and the space just below the gunwale.

I applied a thin layer of Jasco's Paint and Epoxy Stripper first and let it sit for about 10 minuets, then scrapped it off with a putty knife. This stuff takes off layers very well, and I highly recommend it for anyone who wants a effective stripper. After I remove the paint, I give it a quick Acetone wash, then use a brass-cup to get the rest of the small, tough stuff.

Getting started with a brass-cup to clean up the rest of the Rhino paint. It makes fast work, but cramps my hands after some use.



Gunwales cleaned. Now to attack the back.



Here's what Jascos can do. This is just a very thin layer applied to the side. The stripper is thick, which helps it clings to vertical surfaces, making it easier to remove paint.



All stripped, now time to clean it up.



Here is some free advertising for 3M. To buff the rest of the paint off the side, I used 3M's Scotch-Brite Paint and Rust Stripper pad. These pads are AWESOME!!! They preform well, and so far I have only used one pad. They do leave little swirls, but you can control the amount of pressure on the pad to get what you want.



Here the results of the pad's handy work. It was a PIA :x to hold the drill and find a comfortable position to get the work done.



Next I concentrated on the sides between the gunwale and those brackets.



Here's what she looks like after today's work. I have about 90% of the paint removed. Still got some hatches to do and a bit of the back, but its coming along. Got to work a 48hr shift tomorrow, so I wont be able to get any more work done on it till Sunday.  That makes me a Sad Panda!!


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## CMOS (May 1, 2015)

Thank you for all the great detail in that post. I have been wanting to know specifically what people use to strip off old paint from a Tinner. Unfortunately I worked A LOT harder to get the old paint off my 63 Lone Star. Wish I would have known this before!

I'm compiling info like this for my next project, yet to be determined. I'll keep my eyes open for a super deal on a 16 or 18' fixer-upper.  

Your boat is looking good! =D> 

CMOS


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## Shoedawg (May 2, 2015)

Thanks CMOS. Jascos has been the great and saves a ton of time. If you are interested in other ways to remove nasty glue and maybe paint, I wrote up a post about different chemicals I tested and used. Follow the link below:

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=34344


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## Shoedawg (May 4, 2015)

Well I kinda hit a situation with the foam that is in the back of the boat. You can read my thread about it HERE

I needed to remove the motor to help me get to it, plus the motor needed to come off anyways. As I was feeling around the inside aft, I felt the transom. It seemed very wet and maybe rotted, so the motor NOW has to come off. The transom is covered up with a aluminum sheet like this:




So now I needed to build an OB Stand for the motor and find some great plans to build one. You can download the OB Stand plans here: Out Board Motor Stand Plans

The plans are pretty detailed, but you do need to pay attention :-k to the plans and have a miter saw and a table saw that can do miters. A jigsaw will work as well, but the cuts will be difficult to do.

Here is what the OB looks like on paper. I carefully labeled the boards per the parts chart on the plans. This really helps to see how everything goes together.



I needed about 24 feet of 2x4's, 4 feet of 2x6, some lag screws with washers and four heavy duty casters. I bought two locking casters and had two spare ones laying around.



Next was measuring and cutting the boards to length per the parts description. A miter saw is a perfect tool for this, making it easy.



Heres all the boards cut to proper length.



After cutting the boards I marked the boards with their measurement, gave it a part number per the plans, and labeled the degree of cut and what side it would be on. This saves time and confusion for later on.



Now on to the miter cuts. All the boards, with the exception of one board, are cut at a variety of angle's, using the crosscut method. Notice the blade at a 8* angle.



One board had to be ripped at a 8 degree angle. Using a table saw that can do this, along with a fence helps. This is part 2B on the plans in my picture, along the bottom of the stand.



Here is all my boards, properly cut, mitered and stacked with their matching counter parts.



Next I dry fitted my parts. See the angles that were cut? I drew a small circle around the corner area of the plans to ensure I was putting it together correctly. The plans do not really detail the long ripped angle (Part 2B), so you really have to study the plans.


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## Shoedawg (May 4, 2015)

Con't:

Here is a better shot of those angles. The bottom left board is the ripped angle one, again part 2B.



After everything looked good, I grabbed some clamps (you can never have enough clamps) and pre-drilled all my holes.



This is the frame completed.



Next was adding the 2x6's. They butt up to the frame and will act as the support for the motor. The empty space to the left of the 2x6 is where the second 2x6 will go.



Like this.



Up next, and the hardest part, was centering the support boards.




Attaching the support board to the frame.



And here are the results! It took me about 3 hours to do all this. The total cost was about $40. The casters are going to make the motor easy to move around the shop.



And here is the motor on the stand. It is holding well and easy to move around. I will post what I did today tonight.


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## CMOS (May 5, 2015)

You don't mess around, do you? =D> 


CMOS


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## JMichael (May 5, 2015)

I could be wrong but I believe you have your motor on the stand backwards. If you look at it from the side it should be tilted the same basic angle that a transom tilts. I only mention this as it looks like it might be possible to tip. Those hard casters like that will lock up if they hit a tiny rock on concrete.

Great job building that stand though and the boat is looking good.


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## Shoedawg (May 5, 2015)

JMichael said:


> I could be wrong but I believe you have your motor on the stand backwards. If you look at it from the side it should be tilted the same basic angle that a transom tilts. I only mention this as it looks like it might be possible to tip. Those hard casters like that will lock up if they hit a tiny rock on concrete.
> 
> Great job building that stand though and the boat is looking good.



Yea it is backwards. When I was getting the motor on with a buddy of mine, we weren't paying attention to how the stand was set. So far its holding up, but I do plan on correcting it. Good call.


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## Shoedawg (May 5, 2015)

As you saw above, the motor is off. Here she is before removal. Now that it is off, I am leaning towards repainting the cowling, and the rest of it.



Had to get the steering column, throttle control box, and a mess of wires through the hole on the left before I could remove the motor. The cables are still attached to the motor. Did not want to start removing stuff until I knew where it went and what it was.



With the cables out of the way, I was now able to remove the motor. Here is the aft. I am now thinking of repainting the whole dang thing since I have to motor off.



Here is my reasoning to repaint. Its pretty scuffed up on the bottom and the paint job was not done either well, properly or *BOTH*! Not a fan of it.



The starboard side.



The camo stencil is OK, but I think I can do better. If I am going to spend the time and effort on this tin, I might as well do it right the first time and get the paint job I want.



With the motor now gone, it was time to remove the foam. You can read about my foam issue *HERE* Thanks a bunch to onthewater102 for helping me out on this one.



If you have this type of closed-celled fill foam in your boat, a body saw and a couple different sized wonder bars (pry bars) do the trick. Just use the saw and cut through the foam, making cubes. After your cuts, pry them out. The bigger the cube cuts, the less of a mess you make.



Progression.



There was a bunch of dirt, leaves, and misc crap that was sitting on the bottom underneath the foam. It was *NOT* allowing for any kind of drainage. This is going to be corrected.


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## Shoedawg (May 5, 2015)

Here is the port side with all the foam removed. Now to do the other side.



Using a PW really helped clean up the remaining foam that was sticking to the hull. It saved me some time getting it cleaned up.



The foam is OUT!!! =D> =D> =D>



Here is what the bottom of the foam looked like. It was in pretty rough shape and a bit waterlogged on the bottom. I am glad I made the decision to pull it out. Now I don't have to worry about drainage issues.



Not sure what my next objective is. I think I am going to remove the rest of the old paint inside the boat and then maybe get this flipped over and start removing the exterior paint. Stay tuned!


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## CMOS (May 8, 2015)

Can't wait to see this project progress! =D> 


CMOS


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## Shoedawg (May 20, 2015)

Been about two weeks since I last posted. The weather has been very uncooperative these past few weeks, leaving me to get some work done on the boat for a few hours at a time before the rains show. My shop is pretty small, and makes working on the boat inside it very cramped. But here is the update.

Started off with my leak test. Filled the boat up a little past the water line and found a few leaks. For the most part, the leaks were very minor, but I am going to replace them anyway.

Here is the *BIGGEST * leak I discovered. Going to replace it with a new rivet.



Here is some very small leaks on the bottom. Very minor, but going to replace those rivets anyways.



As I waited for the boat to drain after the leak test I started working on the lids and a few other parts that I took off, to get rid of that crappy Rhino Liner green paint.






After cleaning up the lids and removing the paint, I started to tackle the back of the boat. Here she is before the stripper went on.



I love this stuff. It started to work within minutes. I am using Jasco's Stripper.



Scraps off easily with a putty knife. I do have to go over it one more time to clean up the remainder of the stuff.



Here's the original manufacturers sticker that I found under the paint.



And look what else I found!! :shock: The serial number for the boat. I looked ALL over the boat for this thing. The tag was covered with so much paint, it covered the numbers. I saw the tag on the back before, but was not sure what the heck it was. Low and behold it was the serial number.



That was it for the day and the rain cames. Had to wait a few days before I could do work on it again.


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## Shoedawg (May 31, 2015)

So far the project is going well, and at a good pace. Here is what I have accomplished over the last few days.

The objective now is to get the paint off the sides and the bottom. The plan is to strip the entire boat with Aircraft Remover, scrape, rinse, then get the tough leftovers off using 3M's Rust/Paint Stripper Pad.
Here is the port side before removal. The paint job has to go.



After applying the Aircraft Remover and scraping the paint off, I found the *ORGINAL* decal plastic wrap that was used by the manufacturer. The previous owner just painted right over on top of it. Not a proper way to paint a boat and keeping the finish looking good. I was glad I made the right choice to repaint this thing.



Here is the plastic decal crap. It peeled off nicely, and in big size section, saving me time.



Just a reference of what Aircraft Remover can do. It bleeds and bubbles paint really well. I highly recommend using it. Just be careful and wear long sleeved chemical resitant rubber gloves and goggles. It will burn your skin if your not to careful.



Here is the boat's original model decal, found underneath all that paint.



Progress. Slow and steady progress :? :? :? :? 



After spending a few hours, I finally got most of the paint off both sides of the boat. Just in time before the rains came.






YHAAA RAIN!!


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## Shoedawg (May 31, 2015)

The boat *FINALLY *is off the trailer. =D> =D> =D> 

The trailer itself needs some work as well. The cross support bars are rusted and rotted and the joints and will need to be either replaced or cleaned up very well and spot welded. Also, I need to replace all the wiring and route it through a some proper protection. Don't have pictures of it, but will post some soon.

Here she is, finally flipped. I bought some movers dolly's from Harbor Freight on sell. I jacked some free pallets and put the dolly's underneath so I could easily move it in and out of my shop. Notice all the black tar/rhino liner crap on the bottom??? They are covering rivets, leading me to suspect that these may be leaky rivets. After I get the bottom clean, I am going to flip her over again and run another water leak test, just to confirm if there are more leaks. :?



Here is the aft end and a clearer picture of that tar crap.



Using the PW to blast some of the paint off. I wish I had one of those gas powered PW with 3100 PSI. Mine is a electric and only does 1280psi. It does help save some time but does not get most off the stuff.



Here is the front right side done. I was able to remove most of the top layer of the paint and some of the tar crap. The rest of the stuff is really hanging onto the bottom of the boat. The Aircraft Remover was just not getting through it. I plan on sanding it off and going down to bare aluminum.



See on the left all that brown, baked on paint? That's the stuff that cant be removed using the stripper and a putty knife. Same with that black stuff. Not sure what the black stuff is, but it does not feel like that tar crap and doesn't look like paint.



Another view. This stuff would be my burden for the next few days. :x 



Found a little crack running along the center, towards the back. As far as I know, it does not leak. Any suggestions on how to patch it up?


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## Shoedawg (May 31, 2015)

Here is the next day. Started with the Aircraft Stripper attacking the right side.



The following pictures show the progression of the job. I spent *A LOT OF TIME* using a 3M stripper pad, mounted on my drill, to remove that baked on paint. I was beat by the end of the day from holding the drill for so long and leaning over the dang boat. But it is coming along.


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## Shoedawg (May 31, 2015)

After spending 3 days of stripping, sanding, blasting and hurting I got the whole boat stripped and ready for primer and paint. But before I do that, I need to fix those leaks and replace some rivets. The plan is to use solid rivets (just like the one's on it now) and coat them with some 5200. Here she is, all done!!


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## Shoedawg (May 31, 2015)

This is what I got done and started today. I flipped the boat back over to run another leak test. As I suspected, there were more leaks, which that tar crap was concealing and holding in. Good news is that I only had about 25 rivets all together that need to be replaced.

I filled the entire thing up, past the water line. Maybe a little over board, but just wanted to make sure I had all the rivets that were leaking marked and ready for replacement.



After the water leak test, and waiting for the water to drain out of the boat, I decided to tackle the drivers console. Its got green Rhino Liner paint on it and has some cracks and a piece or two of missing plastic. Doing some research on how to properly fix this.












Removed the steering column, windshield, panel switches, and instrument panel and getting ready to strip the paint off.



The sander wasn't working as well as I thought, using 40 grit and a light touch. Again I went back to using the 3M Stripper Pad. I love these things. They are a bit spendy, but well worth it for your time and ease of use. Here is the what I got done so far before I called it for the day. It was 94 degrees out today, plus doing yard work before starting on the boat just wiped my butt. Plan I stripping the rest and getting it ready for prep and repair.


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## JMichael (Jun 1, 2015)

Boats looking good but holy crap!!!,,,, are you sure you're in Idaho?? LoL I'm in the south and it was only 74° here yesterday. That's quite the role reversal if you ask me. :lol: 

BTW I wouldn't worry too much about any rivets above the water line unless they're just completely missing or flopping around. Even if they leak, the odds of them ever being under water is slim and even if they do go below the water line it should only be briefly.


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## Shoedawg (Jun 1, 2015)

JMichael said:


> are you sure you're in Idaho?? LoL I'm in the south and it was only 74° here yesterday. That's quite the role reversal if you ask me. :lol:
> .



LOL. Yes I am. I am stationed in southern Idaho and it was *HOT* yesterday. Thank the Lord, the rest of the week is going to be cooler. It can get in the 100's here over the summer months. I miss the 70 degree summers of Alaska


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## Shoedawg (Jun 12, 2015)

Continued some work on the console. Started to attack the ugly paint with some brush cleaner to help loosen it up and used a paint stripper pad to knock it off.



After getting the paint off the console, I needed to glue the loose sections that is attached to fiberglass shell and the plastic console that runs along the bottom.



I used a two part Epoxy with a 5 minute setup to give me time to work with the piece.



To keep the pressure equal along the glue setup, I clamped some 1x4's along the bottom and let it cure overnight. The epoxy worked very well, and adhered to the fiberglass and plastic with no issues. I needed to glue the bottom first before I went forward with patching up the rips and tears. Doing it this way, I believe, will make the patch up job a little easier and have a nicer finish.



Here is one the tears that need to be addressed. Also note the arrows pointing to the small holes. I have several hairline cracks all over the console, which will be filled with a glaze and spot putty. The holes were drilled by me to stop the stress of the crack from running and creating a longer crack. A buddy of mine gave me this tip. I guess the purpose of the holes stops the stress and equalizes the pressure. I used small drill bits to match somewhat the size of the cracks.



Here is the Glaze and Spot Putty from Bondo I am going to use. It is designed for small pin holes and hairline cracks. You are able to sand it and paint over it. A little goes a long ways. If you use this stuff, I recommend very thin coats, with sanding in between. It sands real easy. I used 320-400 grit sand paper and tack cloth between coats.



Just an example of what it looks like.



To fix the missing tears, I used Bondo's Bumper Repair Kit. Like the putty, this stuff can be painted and sanded.



The kit comes with some type of rubber mesh. I added about an inch all round the tear to help reinforce the repair.



After several layers of mesh and filler, this is what the results were. Also note the spot putty above.


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## Shoedawg (Jun 13, 2015)

Next was the corner.



Mesh and filler.



I left the repairs to cure for several days and then smoothed it out by sanding. Below are the results.






Still have to patch up the other bigger cracks and fill in the hairlines. But I am really happy with the results so far. I also dropped my boat off to get some minor cracks welded up along the bottom. Hopefully I will get it back in the middle of next week and start to get this thing painted.


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## Shoedawg (Jun 23, 2015)

Well its been about two weeks since I last posted, but progress is being made. I got the console just about done, and decided to tackle the boat trailer. I made a bone head move though. I don't have any before pictures of the trailer before I started to work on it. I thought my SD card was in the camera, while I was taking pictures of the disassemble, and that was not the case! #-o 

Hope I can remember where things went [-o< 

Anyways, on the the restore...

Here is some of the details that needed to be addressed on the console. I had a few cracks running though some areas. I drilled some holes to relieve some pressure from the cracks and to prevent them from spreading even more. Below are some pics of the cracks.


















Here I am using the two-part epoxy to seal some the cracks. Mix it well, and let it cure for a few days.



Some of the cracks I used the rubber screen matting to help reinforce the cracks. I hope this stuff works in the long term. The key to using this stuff is being patient with it. Let it cure for a few days before sanding it and applying another coat if necessary.


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## Shoedawg (Jun 23, 2015)

Next up was the instrument panel. The instruments themselves look to be in good shape, but that paint around the housing has to go.



The back side of the panel. Some dirt was built up along the gauges and the wires seem to be in good shape, but I am just going to replace the wires with new ones and some delectric grease on the contacts.



Some of the brass prongs were a little corroded on the back of the gauges. I used a brass brush to clean them. I also need to replace these plastic plugs. The inside was just to dirty and corroded to chance a good contact.



The gauges are out. The plan is now to clean up some of the paint that got around the front edges and clean up the brackets that were holding them in place. Also the paint on the panel is going to be removed.



All cleaned up and the paint gone. I am sick of this rhino liner green paint. Its been a PIA to deal with.



The target now was the switch bank. There are two "2 way" switches and one "3 way" switch. The hole on the left is for an A/C adapter, which was missing when I bought the boat. The switches control the Bilge, Live Well and Lights.



The back of the bank.



I labeled the back of the wires so I knew what, went where, when I reassemble the switches. I am thinking of just replacing them with new ones. Maybe get some new switches that have light indicators on them, to tell me whats on???



All switches are out and properly labeled. Now to remove that green paint. *SIGH* 



Finally all gone!!


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## Shoedawg (Jun 23, 2015)

As I mentioned in the previous above post, I dont have any before pics of the trailer before I took it apart. But below is the trailer all disassembled. I did have to cut off two cross bars on the trailer. They were rotting through with rust on the the welds and the beam. A huge pile of rust came out of both bars as I poured the crap that was inside them.

One cross bar was being held together on the trailer with a "L" bracket with some rotted out self-tapping screws. It was barely doing anything to support it. I was not going to take a chance on the bars and loosing my boat while towing and possibly hurting someone, if the bars failed. [-X So I will need to purchase two new bars and weld them.



Here is one of the bars I cut. Notice the rust on the corner? They had to go.



It was time to strip the paint, remove the trailer lights/wiring and remove the hitch, wheel jack and winch housing. I do plan I replacing the bunks with new wood, treating them with some type of water protection, and new carpet.



Back side of the tail lights. I made sure I took pictures of the setup. Looks to be a ground wire. The other side is the same. I had a issue with another trailer I own with the lights not working, and it ended up being a grounding problem. 



After removal of the tail lights.....LUCKY ME!!! :LOL2: I didn't notice this before, but the trailer tail lights are LEDs. I though they were the old bulb type, but NOPE!! The entire electric wiring set up to run the trailer lights were *ALL* taped on the *OUTSIDE *of the trailer.... [-X [-X [-X I am going to run new wiring through the trailer itself or find a way to protect them from the elements.



Looks like I can run the new wiring though here, that hole on the upper right corner, where the tail lights sit.



The side amber lights were next. They were not LEDs, but the bulb type and in crappy condition. Again they will be replaced with new ones. LEDS!!



After I got all the lights off the trailer, I focused on removing the wheel jack, wench housing and the hitch. The gears for the winch and the webbing need to be replaced. The gears slip and the webbing is old and frayed. The wheel housing on the jack is loose and flimsy. I hope I can fix it to save some money. It works, but does not seem stable. And look at that wire mess. Just added more to the check off sheet.


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## Shoedawg (Jun 23, 2015)

Here is the tongue, with the receiver removed. Notice the cut in the front. A buddy of mine thinks how this happened, and how it got there, is that the original owner bought a receiver that was the wrong size for the tongue. So he cut the top of the tongue, and hammered the front in, to tapper it down, to fit the receiver. Notice how the tongue tappers in, towards the front? I dont know if I should leave it be or patch it up. Any suggestions? My buddy says to patch it.



Now notice the receiver and how it tappers a bit. Also note the evidence of hammer marks on top of the receiver where my finger is.



Now at the stage of stripping the paint. I am using some left over Aircraft remover to get it off.



After some help from the wife, got the left, right and back side done.



Tongue cleaned up, and the bunk brackets ready in wait to be stripped.



That was it for the day. The plan is to flip over the trailer and get the bottom paint off, do the wheel wells and then go over the entire trailer with a steel cup to clean up the rust and the rest of the paint. Hope everyone is enjoying the progress so far.


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## Shoedawg (Jun 25, 2015)

Okay, so yesterday was removing the rest of the paint and doing some prep work for the paint and the weld job. Went into town and purchased two 52.5"L x 3"x4.1 Channel Standard bars for to replace the rotted out ones and some flat steel pieces to do some patch up work.

Started with the wheel wells first. Need to remove the aluminum wheel wells to get a better advantage point to clean them and the steps.



The underside of the wheel well. The paint is going to be stripped and then repainted.



With the wheel wells off, I can now attack the rust and paint. I plan on keeping everything dissembled, so I can paint the parts individually. I do have a HVLP. It is a Wagner Flexio 690 HVLP Paint Sprayer. I hope it does a good job. I have seen mixed reviews on this site, and others, about Wagner's, but I couldn't pass up the deal Lowes had on them.



First steps striped. I still have to go over the area with a steel cup to remove the rest of the rust and some paint I couldn't quite get to.



The wheel wells were up next. Used Aircraft remover to help remove the paint.



All Done with stripping paint! :LOL2: Took a pressure washer to clean the parts up and remove some loose rust. Still have to go over them with a steel cup to clean em' up a bit more.



Here is the trailer flipped over. Had to flip it to remove the underside paint. Did a quick wash with the PW and let it dry, which took no time at all in this heat. Next step was to tackle the rust and the nasty old welds where the cross support bars were attached.



Here's those nasty welds. :x









After doing a little prep work called it a day. It was a long hot day, and I was worn out.


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## Shoedawg (Jun 25, 2015)

*BIG DAY TODAY!!!*!!! Got the cross support bars replaced and welded, along with the bunk brackets. But first I had to tackle the rust that was built up *INSIDE* the back of the trailer. Had to drill some holes on the bottom back side to help facilitate drainage (there were *NO *drain holes on the trailer #-o). 

From there my buddy and I took the PW and a wire hanger and started working on getting that rust out. There are bolt holes near the back of the trailer, where the steps attach to. We stuck the jet of the PW in the holes to flush out the rust, while banging with a hammer and using that wire to scrap out as much as we could. We put the tongue of the trailer on the corner of my house to let gravity lend a hand.

Here are the results!!



I couldn't believe the amount of rust that was in there.



The other side.



There was probably about 35lbs of rust compacted in the back. When we lifted the trailer back to the ground, you could feel the difference in weight. We did our best to get most of it out. We also think and hope, that the rust issue was towards the back. The rest of the trailer near the middle and front did not seem to have the same issue.

Now it was on to get this puppy welded.  

I am lucky to live on a Air Force base that has an Auto Hobby shop just down the street. They had a wire feed welder that can be rented out for $10 an hour. It took us a total of four hours to get everything done, to include prep work, cutting and welding. The shop-keep only charged me $35!! Saved like a Boss!! This probably would have cost me about $200 bucks else where.

Here she is, ready to get fixed. Thank the Lord the shop had Air Conditioning.



Started with grinding down to bare metal and getting it clean for the weld job. Did all 4 areas. Here was a piece of scrap that went over the worse part to help strengthen that crappy hole.



The bar was placed over the area, in the above picture. The hole you see on top would be addressed and patched as well.



We used another piece of scrap to cover up that hole and started the weld to hold it down.



Welding it in place.



Here is the patch all done. I will still need to clean it up just a bit with a grinder, but the agenda was to get these bars on.


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## Shoedawg (Jun 25, 2015)

Welding the other bars in place.






*WOOHOO!!!* :LOL2: :LOL2: :LOL2: Finally all the bars are in place, welded and the trailer can now safely and properly haul the boat. But we weren't out of the woods yet.



Next up was the front of the tongue with that nasty cut. It needed to be patched. We cut a 12"" piece of scrap and put it *in and underneath* the cut. From there it was tacked to hold in place. Then the scarp sticking out was cutoff and grind to be flush with the tongue.



After that, we welded the rest of the piece and filled it in, then grind it flush so the receiver would fit properly over the tongue.



Here is what the results turned out to be. Soooooo much better than before.



Here is the before picture of the front of the tongue. What a difference.



Had a few holes weak spots that needed to be patched.



Here we started to clean the cross bars, preparing them for the bunk brackets that needed to be welded. This was the hardest part of the job. We used the brackets off the old crappy bars, but had to first cut them off and get them clean and flush. We did the best we could. A lot of that old crappy rusted bar made it difficult and took up most of our time.



Here are the bunk brackets, all done and ready to go. *FINALLY!!* =D>


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## Shoedawg (Jun 25, 2015)

Another view of the trailer with the new bars installed.



I am very excited that this part is *DONE*!!! :LOL2: :LOL2: :LOL2: It was a major hurdle that needed to be accomplished. Without it being checked off the list this fast, I would have ran into problems when I got the boat's outside painted and ready to be loaded back onto the trailer.

Thanks to my buddy for doing an *OUTSTANDING JOB* and using those skills. Its nice to have pals who have welding skills....



The plan next is to clean up the welds, and the rest of the trailer parts and then paint. Still deciding on a color or colors. I am thinking of either painting it one whole color or painting the wheel wells, the wheels and the guide on brackets a different color and the rest another color. Thing is I have no IDEA what color I want the boat to be....aaaahhh the difficulties of life :roll:


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## derekdiruz (Jun 26, 2015)

absolutely loving this resto. For 900 you freakin stole that thing, as a 12ft boat in my area is fetching around that price. I'd kill to have found that deal! Keep up the great work, looks like you have the handy man gene that makes life oh so much simpler. If I were you I'd throw a fancy pants mud motor on that B and go kill me some ducks with it!!!!


I hope you repaint it camo. FYI


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## Shoedawg (Jun 30, 2015)

derekdiruz said:


> absolutely loving this resto. For 900 you freakin stole that thing, as a 12ft boat in my area is fetching around that price. I'd kill to have found that deal! Keep up the great work, looks like you have the handy man gene that makes life oh so much simpler. If I were you I'd throw a fancy pants mud motor on that B and go kill me some ducks with it!!!!
> 
> 
> I hope you repaint it camo. FYI




Thanks man. I am still on the fence about painting it camo or not. If I do paint it camo, I want it to be a Grade A job, not unlike what was on the boat the first time, a craptastic job. Would love to get a mud motor on this thing, but maybe down the road. Thanks for responding and watching the progress. 8)


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## Shoedawg (Jun 30, 2015)

Update on the build. So far I am concentrating on the trailer and getting it all cleaned up and ready to paint. I think I am going with a black and white color scheme, and will explain below how I would paint the trailer. If any one has any other ideas for color, shoot. I still don't know if I want to camo it or not. I could shoot a decent color on it and just use a home made blind during the hunting season....any thoughts/ideas on this?? :idea: :idea: :?: :?: 

On to the build....

I started to wrap up sanding on the console. I let the black epoxy stuff cure for quite a few days. I wanted to add an extra coat just to ensure the console wouldn't crack anymore and to help strengthen the weak spots. I hand sanded the console using a light touch with 220 grit.












After sanding the epoxy and Bondo red putty, I added one last coat of the red putty to fill in the some of the valleys, hairline cracks and gaps. It will cure until Thursday, and will be sanded. That will be it for the console, and will be ready for paint (color pending).






So far I am pleased with the results, and have no more major tears, torn or missing pieces. I just hope it holds, while out in the elements and on the water. The repairs seem to be very strong and holding well.


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## Shoedawg (Jun 30, 2015)

Next up was the trailer parts. This hasen't been to bad of a job, but the heat wave we are having here in Southwestern Idaho is keeping me from working on it during long periods. I start out in the morning and stop around 2pm. I could do this in my garage and get some shade, but it makes a mess to clean up. These 100+ degree days need to go.... :evil:

I started with the bunk brackets and one of the wheel steps. The plan was first to use Loctite's Naval Jelly Rust Dissolver and let them soak. Afterwards I PW'ed the parts to remove the gunk jelly, then used a steel cup on my angle grinder and 3M's stripper pads on my elec. drill to remove the rest of the rust areas.

The wheel step I was focused on today.



These are the 4 bunk brackets (I think they are really called guide on brackets). Notice the rust built up on them.



This is the Rust Dissolver by Loctite I used. I let it sit for about an hour before I used a wire brush to knock the rust loose, then power washed.



Here are the brackets after using the Rust Dissolver, brushing and washing.



And here they are after I used a steel cup on them. Sorry if its a little bright, but that's the Idaho sun for you.



Next was the step. This is after the rust dissolver jelly.



Making progress in the heat. Notice my angle grinder and drill in the upper right corner. I was switching back and forth between tools to get in some of the smaller and awkward places. I also had a standing fan next to me to keep the heat down. It helped, just a little....



Finally all cleaned up. Just have one more to go.



The plan from here is to clean up the wheel wells, the wheels, the axel and springs, strip the winch housing and wheel jack (or replace it) and the trailer itself.


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## Shoedawg (Jun 30, 2015)

As I mentioned above, here is the color scheme I think I am shooting for. If you guys have any other ideas, let me know. I am open to suggestions and rad ideas. I really don't want to go with just one color. I think having two would be kind of cool and unique, and make the trailer stand out.

Here is my idea using a black and white color scheme (or sumtin' different)

The four brackets sitting on top would be painted white, with the steps being painted black.



The winch housing would be painted white, along with the wheel jack.



The wheel wells would be painted white...



...along with the wheels.



The rest of the trailer would be painted black. Looking for some feedback on this.

P.S.
I will not have an update for about two weeks. I will be in Montana doing some fishing and relaxing with family and hopefully getting away from this heat. I hope to have my boat back from the welder as well, when I return. Its gonna suck not being able to work on this project, but I have a good excuse. :mrgreen:

After I return, I plan on finishing the trailer and getting it painted and put back together. After that, the boat will get its paint job. :LOL2: Once the boat is painted, I can finally get it upright and on the trailer and start the fun stuff, getting the inside done! Thanks for watching the build. Holler at ya'll in two weeks!


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## jethro (Jul 1, 2015)

$900? $900?!?!?! You gotta be kidding me. Here in the Northeast, the motor is worth $600, the trailer $600 and the boat $1000. Lucky to get it as a package for less than $2000. I am flabbergasted.


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## laxtond (Jul 4, 2015)

Making great progress on this on thing. Doing things right with great attention to detail. I'm impressed. Hope to get started on my boat soon and seeing your work helps get motivated to not cut corners and do things right the first time.


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## Shoedawg (Jul 18, 2015)

laxtond said:


> Making great progress on this on thing. Doing things right with great attention to detail. I'm impressed. Hope to get started on my boat soon and seeing your work helps get motivated to not cut corners and do things right the first time.




Thanks. Take your time and don't be lackadaisical with it. One day at a time, and you'll be surprised how much progress you make. Cutting corners just makes for problems in the long run.


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## Shoedawg (Jul 18, 2015)

Well I am back from leave and enjoyed my time away. Got to see *A LOT* of boats in western Montana waters and *A LOT* of older boats for sale as well. Some would make for a great project. Also did some fishing out of my father-in-laws bayliner. Caught some Pike trolling, but his boat isn't really ideal for fishing. But I am back to business as usual on *Project Shoebox*.

Got quite a bit done with my trailer, and FINALLY got my boat back from the mechanic! :LOL2: :LOL2: 

Let us continue....

Started with the console first. Wanted to finish this bad boy up. All I had left to do was sand the Bondo putty and wipe it down with a tack cloth.

Here she is before the sanding.






Hand sanding away. I used a 120 grit first, then wiped the console down with my tack cloth. Then I followed it up with a 220 grit. Lightly sanded. It took some time to remove the excessive putty, but turned out great. Note the respirator I am wearing. This crap turns into a very fine dust. Use one if you have it.



Here are the results...












This section of the console came out just as I wanted. It is reinforced and patched, and hopefully wont crack any more.



FINALLY DONE WITH THE CONSOLE!!! =D> =D> =D> This puppy is now ready to be painted. For now its going to sit out of the way until its ready for paint. I am happy with the results and glad the tears and missing corners are now fixed. Console.....CHECK!


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## Shoedawg (Jul 18, 2015)

Went and got the boat back from the welder. I was anxious to see how it would turn out. I couldn't have been any happier with the results. Was glad to finally have it back, but its going to have to stay on my flat bed for a bit until I can get the trailer finished.

Her she is on my flat bed, ready for pick up.



Here is the bottom of the bow that was corrected. I was glad to get it welded and keep the stress crack from going further and also allowing water to get it.



Here is what it looked like before the repairs.



This was also welded. It was a crack, starting to develope in bottom, near the stern.



Before the repairs.




The welder did a great job, and only charged me $85 for the repairs. He originally quoted me $120. I'll take that any day. Not a bad price when welder's in my area charge about $90 an hour in labor to do welding work.


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## Shoedawg (Jul 18, 2015)

Next was to finishing stripping the rest of the parts of the trailer. I have the axle, the wheel wells, the wheels, the springs and the last step frame to do. I also took the tires off the axle and made a trip to Les Schwab to get them removed off the wheels, so I could strip the wheels.

I started with the wheel wells first. These were pretty clean, but needed some tidying up. I used a 3M Stripper Pad attached to my drill to clean er' up, and a brass wire wheel to get into the edges and curved area of the wells.



All cleaned and ready for paint. The top side of em'.



and the insides...



Next up was the step. I purchased a Flap Disk that attaches to my grinder. I never used one before and decided to give it a shot. *MAN!!* These things work fast and do a swell job of stripping paint and rust. :LOL2: It took me about 10 minutes of work to get the step clean. I am going to purchase more for the rest of the trailer. I did use a steel cup in some areas, especially on the diamond tread.



The step before cleaning...



and after using the Flap Disk and steel cup.



The axle was next on the list.



First I needed to remove the springs from the axle. I wanted to check for rust and worn down hardware (like washers and nuts).



I am glad I did. I noticed the washers were severed in half from rust and wear. They will be replace with new ones. I am pretty sure these aren't locking washers, hope I am not wrong.



The springs are off the axle and everything is ready to be stripped.


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## Shoedawg (Jul 18, 2015)

I used Aircraft Remover on the springs and wrapped some Saran Wrap around them. I got this tip from a poster in the forums. I cant remember his name, but the idea behind the wrap, is that it holds in the Aircraft Remover's fumes, and prevents it from drier out faster. I let them sit for about 30 minuets and did the same to the axle.

The springs.



The axle....



As I waited for the springs and axle and went to work on the wheels. Here they are before, without any stripper.



Here's what Aircraft Remover can do. Notice the bubbling. This stuff is nasty. Make sure you wear eye protection and chemical resistant gloves when applying it. It will also burn your skin. You will know right away if you get any on you. Even a little drop burns.



Instead of using Saran Wrap for the wheels, I decided to use heavy duty garbage bags that I had, doubling them up.



As I let those sit, I decided to tackle the winch housing. I wanted to remove the old winch and the rubber bumper to prep it for painting. The old winch is going into the trash. It is warped and does not lock well and really isn't worth my time or effort to fix it. I purchased a new one at Walmart for $33. 



The winch is gone, and now to remove the bumper housing.



Here is the housing, all separated and getting ready to be stripped and wrapped.


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## Shoedawg (Jul 18, 2015)

After everything was sitting for awhile, I grabbed the springs and started to strip the paint off of em'. The wrap technique worked quite well, and removed almost all the paint off the springs.



I was curious if the rest of the parts would come off with a pressure washer, and to be honest with you I was quite tired of stripping by hand, using a putty knife. So, I decided to load the rest of the parts up in my pick up and visit the local car wash. I would of done this at home, but my PW is kinda out of whack right now (electrical problem). The high pressure did the job, and removed most of the old paint. Here are the results.









Man, I am so close to getting this trailer painted. It is about 90% done. Just have some rust removal to do in some areas, and some spot cleaning of left over paint. I still have to go over the trailer frame for some touch up work, but that shouldn't take long. Hopefully I can start painting some of the smaller parts tomorrow, and finish the rest of it up on Tuesday, next week. I'll keep ya posted and thanks for looking!! :wink:


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## HeavyHook (Jul 21, 2015)

Looking good - keep the pictures coming! 

Also side note - those washers arent severed. They are lock washers.


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## Ictalurus (Jul 21, 2015)

=D> =D> 

Very nice!!! Excellent attention to every detail!! Loking forward to seeing this one come together.


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## Shoedawg (Jul 21, 2015)

HeavyHook said:


> Looking good - keep the pictures coming!
> 
> Also side note - those washers arent severed. They are lock washers.




You are right. They are lock washers. As I was taking the rest of them off, I noticed all of them were like that. Still gonna get new ones for it and thanks.


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## Shoedawg (Jul 21, 2015)

Ictalurus said:


> =D> =D>
> 
> Very nice!!! Excellent attention to every detail!! Loking forward to seeing this one come together.



Thanks man. It is coming along. Just got done with the trailer frame, sanding and stripping, today. I will be posting pics this evening. Should be painting soon!!


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## Shoedawg (Jul 22, 2015)

Well I didn't get to painting today, like I had planned, but finally finished stripping and cleaning up the trailer frame and the rest of the parts. I tell ya, I am really sick of stripping  Its all I have really been doing :roll: :roll: :roll: since I started this whole project. *BUT* it's almost done, and I can finally move on to the fun stuff. And I am sure my neighbors are tired of hearing sanders, grinders and drills playing in their ears all afternoon :mrgreen: Anyway's here's the update.

The last few days was spent detailing the trailer parts and hitting the frame. The wheels and the frame itself took the longest to do. I got the trailer frame finished up today. Here are the wheels all cleaned up. These will be painted white.



Next up were the springs. They appear to be in good shape and will be painted black.



Here is the winch and bumper housing. It will be painted white.



The axle. Just have some minor cleaning to do near the hub heads and its done. It will be painted black.



All the trailer parts together and cleaned, with the exception of the frame itself.



All the above was done the last few days, today was the trailer frame itself. It took my whole day away to finish up, but it is *DONE!!!* =D> =D> =D> Here it is before being attacked with my grinder. I lifted the frame higher off the ground, to make it easier on me and my back.



After I finished, I hit the frame with some warm soapy water, using Dawn dish soap, and a bristle brush. The metal felt pretty rough, due to all the fine metal particles and dust that was created during the stripping process. A quick wash corrected that, and got rid of the dust. With a clean work piece, the primer should adhere well. I didn't let it sit and air dry. I used a towel to dry everything up. It's feels really smooth now. The plan is to do the same thing with the rest of the parts. Right before I apply my primer, all pieces will get hit with some Acetone to nab any oils, dirt and grim.



I forgot to take a pic after I washed the frame, but heres what she looks like. The spots you see in the front angles, (the triangles) are gone.



I should have primer on tomorrow, and hopefully the first coat of paint. I plan I doing some light coats, sanding, coat, sand, etc, until I think it's done. The goal is to have the entire trailer painted by or on Friday. Got some rain in the forecast for the week, so we will see how it goes. Until then, cheers! :beer:


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## Shoedawg (Jul 22, 2015)

Well I am finally done stripping the trailer and parts and started to get some primer on. Only got a few light coats on before the rain came and forced me to stop early, but hey its a start.

First I finished up cleaning the hub heads. Had some light rust, so I used some rust dissolver to eat it away.



I then washed all parts down with mild soap and water, and dried everything with a towel. There was some remainder residue left over from stripping, and I wanted a clean surface for the primer to apply to. Before I gave the first coat of primer, I sprayed a part down with some Acetone and used a microfiber cloth to wipe it. Acetone is a good choice, IMHO, due to that it leaves no residue and dries fast, and cleans very well.



Here is the primer and paint I am using. It is a Rustoleum product, called Professional High Performance and is a Enamel. According to the label, its suppose to protect metal real well, and prevent chipping, fading, etc. I guess I will see how it holds up in the near future. The colors are white and black gloss.



And here it is folks!!! The first coat of primer! Didn't think I get to this stage. It's just a very light fog for the first coat. Same light fog technique will be used for a second coat and so on, until the work piece is covered. By the way, invest into one of these spray can handles. They make the painting process smooth and easier to handle than the traditional hand holding way.



The brackets with their second coat.



Here below is what I ALMOST got done. Saw some storm clouds moving in, and had to stop and pick up. Glad I did, because it poured 30 minutes later. These are not done yet, and need about one more coat. Hopefully tomorrow the weather wont shut me out and let me make a huge dent in priming everything.


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## Shoedawg (Jul 28, 2015)

Well, I am all done with painting the trailer and its parts. I was expecting it to be done last Friday, but that didn't happen. The process was longer than I though it would be. I took my time with the process, applying multiple light coats, allowing some time between them to dry.

Here is the frame, all cleaned and wiped with Acetone, before being primed.



A second coat of primer.



All finished with the primer and waiting to be painted.






Here she is, all painted up.






The springs. I originally was going to paint these black, but changed my mind, and put some white to em'. I thought it would look different to have white springs attached to a black painted axle.



The guide on brackets.



These last two pics are of the winch housing.


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## Shoedawg (Jul 28, 2015)

The wheel wells. I had a difficult time painting these, and ran into a few problems trying to get the paint to stick evenly.



A close up of one of the wheel wells.



The steps with primer.



And the steps painted black. The white wheel wells go between them. Hope the trailer turns out like I pictured in my mind with the play on color contrasts. And yes, I did mask up the diamond plates with painters tape.






The wheels all done. I painted both sides to protect them and masked the area where the tires go. Didn't see a reason to paint the rim area, since the tires should protect it. Didn't see any corrosion when I had the tires removed, so it should be good to go. Plus it saved me painting time.



And finally the axle. She turned out really good.

With primer.



All painted and DONE!!


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## Shoedawg (Jul 28, 2015)

If your curious, I used 14 cans of black, 10 cans white, and 9 cans of Primer. Don't think I would use spray cans again, but it does make the process a little easier and less clean up, but a little expensive. Be cheaper to buy it in the regular cans and apply with your chosen method. I plan on using my HVLP for the boat.

The paint I used was an Enamel. I didn't know before hand, but it can take 2 weeks to a month before the paint is fully cured. Instead of putting the trailer together, and risk marring up the paint, I am going to try and "bake" it in the back of my pickup that has a topper. The trailer frame is going to sit on my flat bed. We have 100 degree days coming up, so hopefully this will speed up the curing process. 




* Note:* Yes the orange letters on the back window of the pickup say, "IF I AM DRIVING FAST, IT'S CUSS I HAVE TO POOP" * I SWEAR TO YOU THIS WAS NOT MY IDEA!!!* It was my *WIFES*!!!!

OK, now that's settled, here is my up coming to-do list. So I got the boat off the flat bed, and back in the garage. I need to replace and/or rebuck the rivets on the hull, and flip her over to finish cleaning up the inside in some areas. Got to order some paint, (thinking going with Parker's), some fill foam for the back of the cavities, and rivets. All that time will be good for the trailer and its part to cure, before I put it back together. Stay tuned and thanks for watching!! :wink:


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## firstresponder01 (Jul 28, 2015)

Love this resto man. Keep it up. I wish ibhad taken so many detailed pictures of mine. I'm doing a similar thing with my baot right now. I'm "baking" it in the garage. My digital thermostat has been reading 101 out there. Still a little soft. Was going to give it a week but might give it much longer. I out on really thick costs of that rustoleum pro grade enamal. I rolled mine on.


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## Shoedawg (Aug 4, 2015)

Progress Report. 

Got a little work done over the past week, but not much. Got two of the bunks for the trailer coated with a water sealant (will report on this later), and ordered some stuff. Have some Parkers Duck Boat Paint in Hunters Green coming in, and some 2-part Foam being shipped by US Composites. Started on removing some of the bad rivets on the boat. Here we go!!

Started out with outside of the boat (port side). These were pretty easy to remove, being aluminum rivets. They were leaking pretty bad when I ran my leak test.



I then moved on to the inside and concentrated on the rivets holding the back decking frame/live well. Thinking how the rivets came out easily on the first set I removed on the outside, little did I know I was about to have a battle with the rest of the interior rivets. 



* THOSE RIVETS WERE STAINLESS STEEL!!!* :shock: :shock: :shock: It was a PIA to remove them. :evil: :evil: :evil: 
I had to use various tools and methods to remove them. I used a Dremel with cutting disks, chisels, punches, grinder, drill bits (GOOD bits not cheap ones), pry bar, you name it.

The only thing that worked out the best for removing them was using the Dremel's cutting disk on top of the rivet head, making multiple cuts, thus weakening it. After that, I used my chisel and hammer to remove the weak rivet head. Once I saw the rivet's shaft, I then was able to punch it through. It was a slow process......but was the best method that worked.

After the front rivets were gone, I decided to remove the live well. That was easy enough. Now I had access to the rest of the back.



The live well gone, but the battle was about to continue with the rest of the SS rivets.



Very little room to move around in. Was uncomfortable and a pain to find a good angle to use my tools. Thank goodness I only had about 8 SS Rivets to deal with.



If you look closely, you can see where the rivets were attached to the bottom of the boat. A partition wall runs down the middle, separating the livewell cavity, from rest of the back.



Still have some rivets to remove, but not SS (as far as I know and see). After that, I can remove the deck frame and get access to the transom. The only way to get access to it was removing the frame itself. I also was thinking maybe I can add some of my left over foam (I should have some) around the outside of the livewell, and make it into a built in cooler. Not sure if the foam will help keep stuff cold, so need to look into that, and figuring out how to keep the foam around the well. Bad Idea??? :mrgreen:


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## Shoedawg (Aug 8, 2015)

Today's goal was to remove the rest of the rivets and get the back deck frame out of the boat. Would have been done sooner, but the brand new Husky Air Hammer I purchased from Lowes, wasn't working properly, so I had to drive into town a get another one. Got me a Powermate Air Hammer for $17 at D&B (farm store) and it was WAY better in quality than the Husky, and cheaper too. Hope Lowes will take the broken one back. Dont have receipt and bought it like 2 months ago. I used the hammer to help me remove the rest of those SS rivets that I had left to do. It made for short work.
Anyways on to the restore:

Started with the outside rivets. No more SS one's to deal with. \/



I used an Automatic Punch first, centered in the rivet head, to help my drill bit out. This keeps the bit dancing away from the center. If you use one, punch it a few times to get a nice little center dent.



After punching, I took my drill bit (I started with a smaller size first) and made a pilot hole. I took the bit into the rivet just a little bit, just enough to make a nice pilot hole.



I then moved up to a slightly bigger drill bit. This time I went all the way through, cutting through the rivet's shaft.



From here, I use a punch to pop out the rivet head, then use the punch again to push the rivet shaft out. I used this method for the remaining rivets, and it worked very well for me.



I then concentrated on the back. These four rivets are attacked to some support brackets. 



I used the same method above for removing them. The only thing I did different was use a chisel to pop off the head first, then a punch to remove the shaft.



Next were some screws holding the rest of the deck from and that black drain, center and above.



After removing the screws and drain I FINALLY for the back deck off and out of the boat.



Here is the deck frame out of the boat. Gonna be a heck of a lot easier to clean it now.


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## Shoedawg (Aug 8, 2015)

Finally have access to the transom.



It looks to be in OK shape from the top. Opinions on this??



So I am in a dilemma right now. I don't think I can access the entire transom without having to remove rivets on the outside corner's of the boat. If I do that, it seems I need to remove rivets that hold the rail together, and they are in good shape. All in all, it looks like its going to be a pain to do.



I will look at it further in the next few days, and see if its worth the effort and work. From the pictures, do you think the transom is OK??? Let me know. I really don't want to add more work, just to find that its in decent shape.


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## amk (Aug 9, 2015)

That board looks to be in decent shape I don't think you need to pull it.


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## sonny.barile (Aug 9, 2015)

It looks like you have some holes in the inside face of the transom that you can probe with a little screw driver or pick. See if the material is dry and intact.....


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## Johnny (Aug 9, 2015)

Dang Dawg, that right there is some Gosh Awful amount of *WORK *!!!
well, not work, but a labor of LOVE !!!

AWESOME tutorial !!! AWESOME workmanship !!!

I am making a note of your thread - so when somebody asks,
" how can I fix up my boat " - - - LOL then they will see how much WORK it is.

Thanks for taking the time out of your busy schedule to document the project.


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## Shoedawg (Aug 11, 2015)

Thanks for all the reply's guys. I took another look at the transom, and it appears to be in really good shape. I see, nor could I feel/find, no signs of rot. That is GOOD NEWS for me!! :LOL2: I can scratch my plans of removing the back to gain access to it. One less thing to worry about. I am going to seal the areas that I can reach though, using maybe the left over Thompson's Water Seal I have on hand.

So I got my paint in the mail yesterday. I purchased 2 gallons through Parker's website. They charge $35.99 per gallon, plus shipping and handling. Cabela's sells it for $60.00 a gallon!!! No thank you. Save your self some cash and get it through Parkers.

Parkers Duck Boat Paint (Hunters Green)



Today, I decided to remove the foam that was in front of the boat. I was back and forth on this, and just went to it. I was thinking it was in the way for good water drainage, and catching all the crap I could run into, down the road.



I used my Keyhole Saw to cut through the foam, making full length cuts, then cut across the opposite direction. Essentially I was making cubes in the foam. Cutting cubes lessens the mess, and makes it easier to pull out the crap.



Use a flat pry bar to help you pop the foam out. You can see how the cuts help make it easier.



Making progress.



Glad I made the right decision to get rid of this crap. All this sand/dirt was *UNDER *the foam. I also found a rusty screw and some random junk.



Here I am using a large putty knife to remove the foam that is sticking to the tin. I had various putty knife sizes on hand to help me out.



Almost there.....



Here are the results. I shop'd vac'd the dirt and crude out, then pressure washed the area, and flushed out as much dirt and crude as I could. Turned out pretty good, I think.






Plan is to get rid of some more of the dirt inside the boat, then get her cleaned up inside and start removing the leaky rivets. It's getting closer and closer to painting this thing.


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## Shoedawg (Aug 16, 2015)

Got a few things done over the last few days. Started cleaning up the back deck that I removed and got the trailer put back together. Here we go!

Here is the back deck. It needed some minor cleaning and had some old carpet still attached to it.



The sides had some left over foam in the lips and on the cavity walls. I used a 3M stripper pad to remove the film from the foam on the sides. A putty knife was used to remove the foam from the lips.



The other side.



The top ready to be cleaned.



All cleaned up and ready. Just have some very minor areas to clean up and this puppy will be ready for paint.



I also received my fill in foam from US Composites. It is a 2 part liquid, Expanding Urethane Foam. I choose the 2lb Density (16lb kit) with a total of 16 Cubic Feet, to fill in my cavities. Total cost was $134. Shipping was *$$EXPENSIVE$$*. I think it ran me about $50+.



While I was at it, I removed the drain plug and live-well intake. They were in Okay shape, but needed to come off anyways before I painted.

The drain needs to be resealed and replaced. The live-well intake was alright.



Both gone. Was a PITA to remove the intake.


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## Shoedawg (Aug 16, 2015)

Now on to the trailer!! :mrgreen: 

First I had to prime and paint all the brackets (I forgot about them :roll: ). Had to soak them in some rust eater and it cleaned them up very nicely. I was going to paint some white and others black but ran out of black. So I just used up the rest of my white I had left. To make it easy to prime/paint I took a 2x6 and drilled some holes to hold the brackets. It also protected the threads from getting paint on them. Had to wait a day for them dry.



This was today's work. Getting this trailer put together. Got all my parts gathered and ready to rock this out.



Steps, axel and springs mounted.







Wheel wells added.



The winch housing with a new winch.



Now add the new jack wheel and put the back bunk guides on, plus the tires and DONE!!!



The following pics are some trailer porn....


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## Shoedawg (Aug 16, 2015)

Some more.....









Its not completely finished yet. Still need to add the bunks and hook up some lights, but at least its together. Glad I left the paint to bake and dry in the back of my topper for about 3 weeks. Might do the bunks this week, the lighting will come later. I am pretty happy with the results and the way it turned out. It was A LOT of work, but well worth it. Hope everyone is enjoying my build. I know I am. :LOL2:


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## Shoedawg (Sep 27, 2015)

WOW its been almost a month and a half since my last post....but I assure ya' I have *NOT *been lackadaisical :LOL2: Been tooo busy to make any updates on the thread, but I found sometime this evening to post. I have a major update to announce as well. Just keep reading the thread and you will found out. Here's what I have been up too.

I needed to clean the inside of the boat and prep it for paint. There was some left over paint from the original owner and some light rust build up.



You can see the light build up. I also plan on removing those aluminum brackets that are on the sides.



I spent most of the day cleaning the inside. It was a PIA to get between those drain channels with a green 3M pad and some elbow grease. I used some paint stripper to remove the old paint and some rust dissolver to remove the light rust. After that I did a rinse, and this was the results.



Next up was removing the brackets on the sides.



Here is what I found after removing all the sides. Some crude and dirt.



FINALLY ALL CLEAN!!!! :roll:



After the inside was cleaned up, I flipped the boat over and began to work on removing the leaky rivets on the bottom. I marked them with a sharpie during my water leak test.



Using the method I have shared before (its in the thread somewhere :wink: ), I removed about 20 rivets.



I purchased an assortment of different sizes and lengths of rivets from Jay-Cee Sales & Rivet, Inc. I went with all *aluminum closed end blind rivets (pop rivets)* and *solid rivets with a brazier head*. I wanted to have different sizes on hand, just in case a hole was too small or big. The solid rivets are going on the bottom to replace the leaky rivets and be used in some structural support for later on. The pop rivets will be used as well, down the road during the build. I would highly recommend Jay-Cee's. I got 700 rivets for about $60. Much cheaper than buying them at a Big Box store. Shipping was fast and ran me about $16. I know I wont use them all, but I have them now for future repairs or mistakes I make.


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## Shoedawg (Sep 27, 2015)

I know solid rivets do a great job and keep leaks out, if done properly, but I just wanted some peace of mind, and coated the shafts with some 3M 5200 before I set the rivet in.



From there, I grabbed my bucking bar and some ear protection and had the wife hammer the rivet head with a engineers hammer. It was LOUD. Wear ear-pro. Here is the bucking bar I had. You can get a kit with different sizes and angles from Northern Tool. Well worth it.



Here are some of the brand new rivets installed. After we installed all the new rivets, I let the 5200 cure for a few days and then ran a water leak test. NO LEAKS!!!!! :LOL2:



I had some small leaks on the backside of the boat that needed to be addressed. They were just pin size holes, but I wanted them patched. I purchased some JB-Weld Water Weld and YES it works with aluminum. Just take a snip out of the tube, rub the putty between your fingers until you get a uniform color and apply to your patch work. It cures in about an hour and can be sanded and painted.



If you look closely, you can see some small white patches. I had about 7 holes that I patched.



Here is an example of what the stuff looks like after its been cured and sanded.



I spent some time cleaning up the rest of my brackets, back deck, panels and lids.



After cleaning them up, I needed a way to mark the brackets and couldn't use a sharpie since they were going to get painted. To solve that problem, I used my electric engraver and gave each bracket a part name. That way I know where they go back to. If you look close towards the bottom of the pic you can see the engraving. The brackets are only going to get a light coat of paint, so I know that I will have to pay attention not to cover up the engraving with too much paint.



Now it was time to paint the inside of the boat. This was the *BIG announcement* I spoke of earlier. I cant believe I am at this stage already. Didn't think I was going to get here, but I'm here!!! :LOL2: :LOL2: :LOL2: 

The inside was first given a nice wash down with simple green, then dawn dish soap and a good rinse, then air dried. I then applied my first coat of primer.


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## Shoedawg (Sep 27, 2015)

Here is the primer I used. Rustoleum's Self Etching Primer. I think I went through about 9 cans of this stuff. I had a *LOT *of surface area to cover, since my boat is a 17 footer. I think I did too many light coats. All you really need is a light fog, but its ok. I choose not to sand the primer as well, since most of the bottom wont be seen anyways.






After drying, it was on to painting the inside of this thing. I choose to do the inside first for a few reasons.

1. It was the logical first choice. The boat was going to be flipped anyway for the outside paint job, and I don't have my bunks for my trailer quite done yet.

2. I bought a Wagner HPLV paint sprayer. The model is a Flexio 690. I have never used one before and thought practicing with it first on the inside would help me understand how to properly use it and fine tune the gun for the Parkers paint I am using. If I made a mistake, had runs, etc, no BIG deal. The paint job for the inside is just to protect the aluminum.

Here are some pics of the Wagner in action!!






I had to have a bandana on to keep my forehead sweat from dripping into the boat... :roll: See how high the paint gun is from the surface of the boat??? I was trying to find the right distance for a good application. The best distance I found was about 8". Also keeping a steady speed of moving the paint gun is key. If you go to slow you get to much build up and runs. To fast, and you don't get a even application. The inside was a beast to paint. It was difficult to get into the channels and paint the inside sides. Thing is, spraying is a lot faster and smoother than brushing. And easier IMHO. :mrgreen: I did make some mistakes, hence why I wanted to do the inside first.



Here she is after a couple of very light coats. The paint is still wet, and does look like I missed some spots, but I assure you I didn't.



Another view



Close up of the front of the bow.



I let the paint cure for a few days and flipped the boat over. It was now time to tackle the outside. :twisted:


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## Shoedawg (Sep 28, 2015)

First things first. Since the boat had been flipped over a few times and collected all kinds of dirt, dust and other crap, I wanted to do a quick sanding. Plus I had some minor clean ups to do. Back to the trusty Dewalt drill and 3M's Stripper pads.



After sanding, I rinsed the boat down then gave it a good scrubbing with some warm water and Dawn dish soap and another rinse. After drying, I also gave it a wipe down using Acetone and a cloth. Acetone does a great job of picking up any fine dust that may be left and also removes any oil/grease residue. Good prep work makes for a great paint job, its the KEY.








From there I moved on to using Klean Strips's Prep & Etch. Basically this stuff chemically etches the aluminum so the primer/paint can adhere to it. It also removes rust, if there is any. I put one part of etch and 3 parts water into a clean Simple Green spray bottle and sprayed the stuff all over outside of the boat. From there, you let it sit for about 15 minutes then rinse well with water, then dry. If you use this stuff it may leave a fine white powder. Just wipe it off with a clean rag and you are good to go. Another note. According to the directions of Klean Strip, you need to prime/paint within 48 hours of etching. Keep this in mind if you use this stuff.



Next was the primer. Here is just the start. Again I am using Rustoleums Self Etching Primer. NOW. You may be thinking why did I etch chemically then use the self etching primer.....well, because I had bought the stuff a few months ago back and didn't think about the Self Etching Primer. Plus I figured it would hurt.



After a few light coats of primer, here is the boat all done up. I think I used about 9 cans.


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## Shoedawg (Sep 28, 2015)

After the primer had sat and dried for a few hours I went over the outside and *LIGHTLY *sanded off some of the nubs that the spray can produced. I used 1000 grit paper and a block to help out.



See the nubs from the primer. I wanted to knock that down a bit so it wouldn't show up in the paint job. I learned this when I was doing the inside of my boat (see why I did the inside first?), because the nubs where showing through the paint from the inside paint job.



After sanding the primer down, I used my air blower to remove the sanding dust. This thing is awesome and I use it all the time for cleaning out my computer to cleaning out my table saw. Don't use an oiled air compressor that doesn't have a air filter on it to blow your off your sanding/paint jobs. If you do, you run the risk of shooting the compressors oil all over your project.



See the amount of sanding dust?? If you don't clean your piece, that crap will interfere into your paint job and make it look like crap. Remember PREP, PREP, PREP!!!!



After blowing the dust, I used my shop vac with a brush attachment. Using an attachment with a brush helps pick up the fine partials. Since I am a wood worker, I have a Dusty Deputy that goes with my shop vac, with a HEPA filter. Essentially I have a two-stage vacuum system. Basically the Dust Deputy creates a vortex, and dropping the fine dust particles into a sealed bucket. This method prevents these fine particles from clogging up your main vacuum's filter and keeping the sucking power at its max. If you do a lot of woodworking and sanding, like me, it is defiantly worth the investment.



After that, I used a tack cloth to pick up any remainder dust. As you can see there is some dust still left. A lot of it came from the gouges I have on the bottom of the boat. I wiped until very little was picked up from my cloth. I know, I am getting anal about this PREP work, but sue me!!! :roll: :mrgreen:



Here she is all sanded and cleaned up of dust. Now time to shoot the first coat of paint on it.


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## Shoedawg (Sep 28, 2015)

So the following are the steps that I took to do my paint job.

First thing to do is stir that paint good. I am using Parkers Duck Boat Paint. It is an oil base paint and is very thin. You can add some paint thinner or turpentine to thin it out some, but this stuff is thin enough as it is. Parkers recommends 15% to thin, but you can get away with doing 5% to thin.

*Note on my Wagner sprayer:* 
It comes with a little test funnel and a counting chart to help you determine if you need to thin or not. You dip the funnel into your paint and count how long it takes for the paint to empty out. After you got your count number, there is a reference sheet that tells you if you need to thin or not, depending on how many seconds it takes for the funnel to empty. It only took about 20 seconds for the paint to flow out for me, thus keeping me in the parameters to shoot the paint without having to thin it. Read the directions and practice and there should be no issues. 

I know some people have had a terrible experience with Wagner sprayers, but if you follow the directions and read the thinning guidelines carefully, then there should be no issue. Also once you have finished laying out a coat, *CLEAN THAT SPRAYER RIGHT AWAY!!!* and use the recommended clean up guidelines for the paint you are using on your sprayer. If you don't clean right away, you risk the chance of gunking it up and it not working correctly. Plus its easier to clean while the paint is still fresh. I have done this many times and the sprayer is working like it should. End rant.

Okay back to it. Stir that paint and *WELL*!



After stirring, I use a ladle (like for gravy and soups) and pour my paint into a cup with a paint strainer. Plus it makes it easier and cleaner to pour the paint. All paints come with some impurities and a strainer will catch the crap, thus preventing clogging in your spray gun and going into your paint job.



After that, I dump my strained paint into the spray cup and apply the first coat. Here is the first coat.



After letting it dry for the day and baking in the sun, I light hand sanded the coat down with 220 grit and did all the steps I used for cleaning up the primer dust. Here she is after being sanded and cleaned.



Next I applied the second coat. Again after drying over night, and sanding/cleaning.



The next two pics are my third coat. The paint is still wet.






And that's where I am at for now. Plan on doing maybe two more light coats and then I am done. I will let the boat cure for about a week before I put it back on the trailer. Don't wont the bunks to mare the paint job in any way. Still have to paint the rest of the parts, but that's the easy lane. Sorry for the time lapse in the posts. Have a goodie!!


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## Shoedawg (Sep 28, 2015)

Just a quick update. I pulled the boat out of the garage during my lunch break to see how it looks after drying over night. I am liking the results so far. Here she is all dried.






Close up of the bottom and rivets.



Gonna do one more light sanding job and another coat if I have time this evening.


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## amk (Sep 28, 2015)

paint looks good. I've got some parkers in that color I was curious how it would look on a boat now I got my answer.


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## Shoedawg (Sep 28, 2015)

amk said:


> paint looks good. I've got some parkers in that color I was curious how it would look on a boat now I got my answer.



Shoots real good too. It doesn't look like it from the picture, due to the harsh sun, but this stuff is dead flat and looks even better in person. The paint seems to be real durable. If you want a long lasting finish, I would do multiple light coats. Its more work, and requires more time, but you wont have to paint your boat again for a loooong while.


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## Shoedawg (Jan 15, 2016)

Wow its been 3 months since I've posted an update. Not much to report, but I did get my back deck and console base painted early in October, but kind of stopped due to hunting season and the cold.

See I have a good excuse. Goose hunting last week.



Since I am in the process of painting, and the paint requires at least 40 degrees to be able to adhere to the surface, I was just going to wait until spring until it warmed up to start again.

Then I was getting antsy and didn't want to wait that long. So i purchased a heater to warm up the shop.



This thing is awesome and can warm up my shop from 30 degress to 65 degrees in 15 minutes. Now I can get to painting again and get this boat moving. Its a Mr. Heater, model MH125FAV, that can put out 125,000 BTUs with forced air. I was using another propane heater, that I used for ice fishing, early in the winter in the shop, but it was not helping much and taking hours to heat up the area. I should have bought this thing awhile ago. I got $50 off from it on Northern Tool's website. If you have a small shop/garage and don't have a heater, I would highly recommend this unit.

Here is the back deck and console painted back in October.






I also took a trip out to my storage lot where the boat is. I had covered it with a tarp and tied it down awhile ago, but failed to check on it during the winter. This is what I discovered when I got there.



Great :roll: :roll: :roll: I needed to get under the tarp to store the console and back deck in the boat (shown above) to make room in the shop. I spent about an hour chipping out the ice in 35 degree weather, using a crow bar and crappy gloves that I had on hand. Had to stop a couple of times to warm up my hands with the heater in the truck. Here is the massive pile I pulled out of the boat.



Here was the typical size I was dealing with.



So, I learned my lesson. Check on the boat more often. I used about 4 ratchet straps that went around the boat to help reinforce the tarp from sagging due to snow/ice and re-tarped the damn thing, and propped it up as best as I could.



Now that I got my heater, I will be posting my progress. I just want to get painting done, so I can move on to the interior of the boat. I hope to have it done by June. Crossing my fingers.


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## edwonbass (Jan 16, 2016)

I just read through this thread and I got to say what a nice job! Great work. I would have half a**ed a lot of that! :LOL2: 
I have a Spectrum 16 Dominator and the hulls look roughly like the same design. I'm going to start re-doing the carpet this month and hope I don't run into too many things. So far the boat doesn't have leaks but I worry about what my foam is going to be like.
I am keeping tabs on your progress and can't wait to see her in the water!


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## Bigwrench (Jan 16, 2016)

Really enjoying your build ! Great job and can't wait to see the foam pouring process.


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## Shoedawg (Jan 18, 2016)

Bigwrench said:


> Really enjoying your build ! Great job and can't wait to see the foam pouring process.



Hey Bigwrench,

I'll will be defiantly posting the foam process and showcasing the process that I will be using. I am hoping to get to it soon, but still have some painting left to do. Just keep checking in from time to time and it will be posted. Thanks for keepin' a eye on my project.


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## Shoedawg (Jan 18, 2016)

edwonbass said:


> I just read through this thread and I got to say what a nice job! Great work. I would have half a**ed a lot of that! :LOL2:
> I have a Spectrum 16 Dominator and the hulls look roughly like the same design. I'm going to start re-doing the carpet this month and hope I don't run into too many things. So far the boat doesn't have leaks but I worry about what my foam is going to be like.
> I am keeping tabs on your progress and can't wait to see her in the water!




Thanks for keeping tabs on the project. Look into Hydoturf for an alternative for your planned carpet project. A lot of guys use it on here and really like it.


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## Shoedawg (Jan 18, 2016)

So I am going to back up little bit and show how I did my bunks and re-carpeted it. I did this back in October of 2015, but didn't post the process I used. So here it goes:

So purchased some 2X4's to replace the old bunks off the trailer. I could of used the old 2X4s off the trailer, but decided against it. I did't really want to spend the time removing the old carpet and having to remove the old glue and rusty staples.

I started with the guide-on's first. Shown here are two 2X4's and two 1x4's cut to lenght about 2 feet. I needed to add about 3" of thickness to the guide-on's, and that's what the original ones had. I applied one coat of Thompson's Water Seal to them and set them aside to dry. I chose Thompson's Water Sealer to give the bunks some protection, and it was a cheap method.

From there I concentrated on coating another set of 2X4's that measured 12ft long, using the water seal. Those bunks were the bad boys that would support the boat.



After the sealant was dried, I starting the carpeting process. I choose a UV-resistant, water resistant, outdoor carpet I found at a local carpet store for a reasonable price. No need to spend a lot on the carpet when it may get replaced in a few years after use.



First set of carpet cut and measured.



This is one of the guide-on's that I glued together. The glue I used was Titebond's III. It is rated for marine use and holds very well. Carpet has been cut and measured.



From there, I applied a layer of DAP Weldwood Contact Cement on the sides of the bunks and top where the carpet would sit.



With the cement on, the wrapping begins. I took my time with this. Slowly making creases and getting a nice tight fit, with little play coming from the carpet. It took awhile but was worth the effort spend. Having a helper (my wife) makes the next step a whole less stressful, while trying to wrap the carpet onto the bunks. Also using clamps to help facilitate the progress is a good idea. You can have *NEVER *enough clamps!!! :LOL2:



With clamps on, I started with a side and trimmed the excess carpet. The tool you see here is *NOT *a pizza cutter, but a sharp as hell quilting rotary cutter. That rotary is a sharp razor blade, designed to cut fabrics of different thicknesses. It was an after thought and should of used it to cut the carpet for the whole process. I plan on using it to cut my HydroTurf and cardboard templates (when I get there??? :| )



Next up was stapling. I used T50 Stainless Steel staples to prevent rusting and to help keep the carpet down.



And here are the new bunks. It took some time to do, but do it right, and take your time, you will have a nice finished product.


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## Shoedawg (Jan 18, 2016)

Here is the bunks on the trailer.



And here is the boat sitting on the trailer!!! Bought friggin time!!!


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## Texas Prowler (Jan 18, 2016)

Very nice work!

Sent from the dust in front of you!


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## Shoedawg (Jan 18, 2016)

Back to the past again......sometime in November of 2015.

So here is my console base and back deck. Both have been cleaned up and ready to go to prime and paint. I made a make shift painting both in my shop, using tarps to protect from over spray. I place the deck and console on these furniture dollies, so i could spin and easily move them around while I painted. Got em' at Harbor Freight on the CHEAP!!




]

Here they are primed. You have seen them finished on the last page, towards the bottom of the thread.





Sorry for the time travel, just got one more trip to do......below


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## Shoedawg (Jan 18, 2016)

OK last trip, and from here on it will be new progression. I promise you that.

I just wanted to share some painting tips that I learned during my paint job. These tips apply to using a paint sprayer.

To get a good start painting, *FIRST *pull the trigger on the sprayer *BEFORE *you move it to over your work piece. I was starting my first run, (shown here, below) and pulled the trigger about 4" from the edge of the boat, then moved the spray gun to the target area. Doing it this way will prevent any build-up on the edge and make it look professionally smooth when you first start.



Watch your height and angle!! Keep the distance of the tip of the gun the same throughout your paint run. It will help the paint stay consistent. DON'T move your wrist, like you would if you were painting with a paint brush (like Tom Sawyer painting a fence). Keep it still. Moving it about will cause high build up if you do. Keep a good pace. Don't go to *FAST *or to *SLOW*. Find a good *rythem *that is working. I also was side stepping to keep the momentum going.



Have a roller handy and on stand-by. Mistakes are going to be made, and build up and other issues is going happen from time to time. In the picture below, I have circled and pointed out some build up that I encountered. From my experience, 90% of the time, it was me causing the problem. I was either to close, to far, to slow or fast or something else. Having a roller on hand can easily fix the issue, and you can continue on.



Make sure to have the fan spray (or spray cone, the way the paint shoots out of the tip of the gun) goes over about 50% of the last run you did. This ensures that the paint covers the area and evening it out. Plus it looks a heck of a lot nicer when your done, with no uneven lines or gaps.



The following pictures below are the *LAST *coat of my paint job. I let it cure and dry for a about a week before I threw it back onto the trailer.







Finals thoughts and tips:
1. Know the *type *of paint your using and understand how to properly use it.

2. PRIMER!!! Know and understand how to use it. If your painting bare aluminum, your going to have to use a primer so the paint can adhere to it. Different materials just require it. Its science.

3. *PRACTICE!!!!* Practice first and understand how your equipment works. Use a piece of cardboard or scrap wood to practice with and get an understanding how the equipment functions. I used water first in my sprayer to see how the different spray fans worked and what they looked like. Then move onto paint if you like.

4. Clean that sprayer as soon as you are done with your coat. Don't go have a beer while the paint sits in the sprayer. You'll have one hell of a time trying to clean it out if you do. Use the right cleaners (water or chemical, like thinner) that the paint manufacturer says to use. Then you can have your beer.

5. *Be patient.* Don't rush through the job. Also check the weather forecast. Weather plays an important role when painting. Is it too cold to paint? Too Humid? Is it going to rain on me today during my paint job. Is it to windy to spray? Look on the paint can for guidelines. They are there for a reason. And let that paint *DRY *before you move on!!!

6. *PREP WORK!!* If you want a nice looking finish, you have to put in the prep work. When painting, prep work is about* 99.9%* of the job. :roll: :roll: :roll: For paint to adhere, the surface to needs to be clean and ready. I am pretty anal about my prep work and probably go over board, but it makes for a nice finish and one I know that is going to stay and last a long time.

7. Multiple light coats are better than two heavy ones. The paint will dry faster and look better, as opposed to heavy coats. It takes more time (and patience) to do multiple coats, but well worth it IMHO. It also provides layers of protection and adheres better. You can sand between coats (I did, it's posted a few pages back), using a light grit sandpaper and wiping up the paint dust before you apply your next coat. I did about 6 light coats with my boat and was very satisfied with the outcome.

8. Pass the knowledge. Share your experience, mistakes, tips with others. After all this is a forum that is about working on boats. :wink: 

These are just tips that I have picked up and practiced along the way and are just my two cents. Thanks for reading.


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## Texas Prowler (Jan 19, 2016)

Thanks!

Sent from the dust in front of you!


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## Shoedawg (Jan 23, 2016)

Okay.....so I am back on track and progressing forward on the boat. Here it goes:

First off, I had to purchase a 60lb propane tank for the new heater. I was using a 20lb tank temporarily, but needed a bigger one to keep up with the BTUs the heater can produce. The heater requires, at a minimum, a 40lb tank. Plus the 20lb tank kept on freezing. The new tank ran me $125, kinda spendy, but well worth it. Funny thing though, is that a 100lb cylinder propane tank costs only $10 more ($135), but would have been too heavy and bulky for me to move around the shop and get refilled. I am happy with the choice I made and the new tank was a huge improvement. My shop went from 30 degrees to 80 degrees in about 25 minuets. I am loving this heater!



So here was the plan today. To clean and prime the *BIG* pieces I have left to paint. The two on the left go along the sides, inside the boat. The one in the middle is my bench seat base (for the driver and passenger) and is also a storage compartment. The piece to the right of that is my partition wall for the back deck, and the tray to the far right is for my battery and a toolbox.



To prep the pieces for primer, I gave them a quick wipe down with some Acetone, using a microfiber cloth and some chemical resistant rubber gloves. These gloves protect your hands better than nitrile gloves. Acetone and other chemicals will degrade nitrile gloves in a short time, limiting protection. Plus Acetone makes your hands cold (don't know why, but it does for me), so use those thick rubber gloves to protect your hands. Also, using a microfiber cloth with the Acetone picks up dust and other foreign debris better than paper towels or shops rags. Those also tend to leave small particles of lint on the work piece. Microfiber cloths are cheap and can be washed and reused, so buy a bag and throw them in the shop.



Here are the pieces primed and ready for paint. I used about 4 cans of Rustoleum's Self-Etching Primer. I applied a few light coats to each piece. They will be set aside until sometime next week, until I can shoot some paint on them.



Make *SURE* your *WEAR* proper *PPE* (Personal Protective Equipment)!!! Even with the garage door open, and plenty of ventilation, you still are breathing in crap. This was my 3M N95 mask I wore during my priming job. The mask is designed to catch about 95% of airborne particulates. You don't want that crap in your lungs. I should of worn one during my paint job with the boat, and WILL from now on.



Here is my last bit of stuff I still need to prime and paint. Got a few lids and some miscellaneous stuff in here, but after that, I am done painting, with the exception of my steering wheel console. Plan on getting these done on Tuesday, after I pick up some more primer.



After all the paint is dry for the pieces, I want to dry fit every thing together in the boat and start making a template with a design I have in mind with some cardboard I have been saving. Can't wait to get there. She is coming together slowly but surely.


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## fool4fish1226 (Jan 25, 2016)

Moved thanks for sharing :beer:


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## Shoedawg (Jan 27, 2016)

Moving along with priming and getting to prep the rest of the pieces for painting. 

Below is my various size brackets and lids, before priming. The orange posted notes on the small pieces are to denote what pieces are what, and where they go on the boat. I *DID *etch (using a electric etcher) a made up part # into each piece, but wasn't sure if the primer and paint would fill in the etching, thus making it difficult to determine what each piece was. Hence the posted notes and drawing a diagram of the painting area.



Pieces primed and ready for paint.






I also decided to prime the steering console as well. I choose some Rustoleum Bonding Primer that is universal for all types of surfaces. I choose this, due to the Bondo putty and 2-part epoxies I used to repair the cracks and tears on the console. The blacks spots and hazy red areas indicate where I did my repairs.



The console after several light coats of the primer. Its a white primer, not a gray. Crappy lighting in the garage.









After priming, I noticed some small hair line cracks, that I didn't see before. The white primer really popped them out. I plan on letting the primer dry for a few days, and will fill in the little cracks with some Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty. It can be used over primers and sanded. Just have a handful of cracks to take care, then I will prime over the repaired areas. I think I am being a little anal about this, but I might as well take care of it before I paint and to help strengthen the console. The cracks could continue to grow over time. You can see one of the cracks I'll have to deal with to the right of the putty tube.



The plan this weekend is to shoot paint on the pieces, shown above, and correct the cracks. I had to order another gallon of Parkers Duck Boat paint. Thought I had enough to do all the parts, but that wasn't the case. It'll be a week before the paint gets here. She is coming along though, and painting is almost done.


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## xFORBESx (Jan 27, 2016)

Absolutely awesome build! Wish I had that kind of determination, motivation, and attention to detail. Can't wait to see finished product!

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


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## Shoedawg (Jan 30, 2016)

So today was sanding and painting day. I finished up priming the console and shot the first coat of paint on my little parts and lids. I decided to fix those hairline cracks I had a few days ago, to let them cure. Here's how I did it:

The following pictures below show some of the hairline cracks I ran into while priming the console. I couldn't see them before, put the primer did and showed me what I missed.









To prevent the cracks from growing and getting worse, I used a method a buddy of mine told me about and which I shared earlier (a few pages back).



After I had drilled all my relief holes, I used the Bondo Putty to fill in the cracks and the holes I drilled.



After letting the putty cure for a few days, today I hand sanded the corrected areas. I started out with 100 grit sand paper (using a very light touch) and progressed up the grit rank, using 400 grit last. I blew the putty dust off and used a tact clothe to wipe up any remaining dust. Below are the results.













The fix turned out pretty good, and I was happy with the results and glad I choose to repair the cracks. I wasn't sure if they would have grown worse over time due to rough water, temperature changes or whatever the case. If I can try to reduce the damage or slow it down, I'll do what I can. Only time will tell.


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## Shoedawg (Jan 30, 2016)

Moving on from there I applied the primer (adding a few light coats) and was curious to see if my repair job worked. I was pretty happy with the results. I couldn't see any more cracks.











Here is the first coat of Parker's on my lids and brackets. There going to sit overnight to dry, then I am going to shoot another coat tomorrow morning (hopefully) and let that coat dry for a good portion of the day. After that coat is dried, then I can flip them over and do the other side. This week will be dedicated to painting the rest of the parts and the console.









I am still on the fence about painting my motor cowling. I have the make shift paint booth set up already and the motor off the boat, so it would be easier to paint it now, rather than later. Its probably going to be painted :shock:


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## Shesabugger (Jan 30, 2016)

Great job ! Attention to detail is awesome.


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## Shoedawg (Jan 30, 2016)

Thanks. It all those years of military training that's been beaten into my head. Details, details, details.


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## Androsyn (Jan 31, 2016)

Man,
That is one sweet boat you got there and it's up on a kick-ass trailer too. Keep up the good work. You're inspiring me to go out and buy a bigger boat for my next project. I've never played with fiberglass so all those uploads are very cool and informative. I can't wait to see this thing in the water!


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## Shoedawg (Jan 31, 2016)

Androsyn said:


> Man,
> That is one sweet boat you got there and it's up on a kick-ass trailer too. Keep up the good work. You're inspiring me to go out and buy a bigger boat for my next project. I've never played with fiberglass so all those uploads are very cool and informative. I can't wait to see this thing in the water!



Thanks man. I never worked with fiberglass either, until this project. its actually not very difficult to work with and learn on. I cant wait to see this thing in the water :mrgreen: too!!!!


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## Shoedawg (Feb 11, 2016)

SO...I finished painting all my parts!! =D> =D> =D> No more extensive painting. Still have some touch ups to do, but I am 99% done. Never thought I be over with it, but I am.

Here are the last panels.



My seat bench base and tray (on the left).



I also painted the console (3 light coats, no sanding). Here are some pictures of what it looked like before and after I made the repairs.












It took about a week for the paint to dry between coats (due to the cold weather at night) but its all done. I spent most of today cleaning up the shop, getting ready to bring the boat back into it.

The plan now is to start cutting up cardboard to make templates of the casting deck, floor, rod/gun locker and figuring out the design I want. I will be implementing them into the boat to see how its all going to fit and look like.

Still on the fence about painting the cowling. Its off the boat and on its motor stand, so it would make it easier to strip and paint, but still unsure.



And if you have a power washer and want a faster way to clean your driveway, garage floor, etc, get one of these babies!!



They are called "water brooms" and do a wonderful job of pushing dirt and other crap. They don't do super deep cleaning (that's not what it is design to do). I just got it in the mail (from Amazon) the other day, and used it to clean the shop and driveway. Ran me about $30, but worth it.


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## Shoedawg (Mar 20, 2016)

Wow it’s been a month since I posted an update on the boat, but I assure you, I have been working on it. Had to stop working on it for about two weeks. Had family come into town, needed to study for rank and made a plaque for a fire chief that is about to retire. I also bought a pop-up camper. Decided it was time to sale the tent and move on up to comfortable camping. So let’s get started.

Went into Boise to pick up some aluminum sheeting and structure support. Picked up two sheets of *5052 5x10 @.090* for $257, *6063 Aluminum Square Tube 1x1x1/8 wall T52* (total 41ft) for $53 and *6061 Aluminum Angle 1.5x1.5x1/8 wall T6* (total 50ft) for $45.

Now, it may seem a bit excessive on how much I got, but I wanted to have some left over for mistakes I may make, spacers for my floor (more on that later) and didn't want to be short on the material in case of a design change. I also needed a lot of sheet surface for my casting decks, rod locker and a few lids. Anything left over, I’ll make something useful out of.

Square Tubing and Aluminum Angle:





I got both types to use them for specific purpose in my design. I don’t know what kind of issues I may run into, so having an option for square tubing or angular, hopefully, will help correct any challenges, while building the support framing and any other mods that come into play.

So I have been collecting large cardboard sheets/boxes over the last 6 months, and the wife kept calling me a hoarder and getting annoyed with it sitting up in the rafters. Kept telling her I needed it for a reason, and the reason finally came. I needed to make a floor template.

The length and width of the floor I need is about 7.5Lx5.0W feet. The aluminum sheeting will be cut to size, and be one piece. I went through several different cardboard thicknesses and sizes and found that the thinner ones were easier to work with.

Template floor in.




Next up was cutting the sheeting to match my floor template. I used clamps to hold the template down and in place onto the work piece.




I purchased a sawblade for my Skilsaw that is designed to cut aluminum and some cutting wax. The wax is applied to the blade to prolong its life, reduces cutting friction and helps for a cleaner/smoother cut. The wax is also easier to apply than other cutting oils/butters. The blade wasn’t cheap (I bought mine retail at a mom and pop hardware shop) for about $40. But I rather have a saw that is designed to cut aluminum than use my really nice woodcutting saws. Stop every foot or so to reapply the wax to the blade. (Note: Sorry about the pic being upside down, I tried to save it upright, but couldn't get it to stay :roll: )




Here I am about to start my cut. *WEAR PROPER PPE* (Personal Protective Equipment)!!! As you see in the picture below, I have a face shield, ear pro, gloves and a long sleeve shirt on. Protect your arms from flying debris and hot shards of metal.




Almost there. To help keep my cut straight, I used one of the square tubing bars as a fence.




Here is the floor in, but there were a few issues that popped up that I knew that I had to deal with, but it’s in. Those orange handles towards the back of the floor are suction cups. They made it easy to handle the floor and put it in place and to move around. They can be had for about $3 a piece at Harbor Freight.




So the “issues” I was running into. The red circle in the pic shows that the corner of the floor is sitting on a lip, preventing the floor from being flush with those beams that run parallel with the boat. The arrows show the gap.




To remedy that, all I needed to do was trim the corners, until they were no longer sitting on the lip, and the floor sitting flush with the beams. You can see the corners trimmed with the floor in here.




The floor is done for now. Next up was cutting up some foam board and fitting some aluminum flashing for my drain channels.


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## Shoedawg (Mar 20, 2016)

So here is some foam board I got SUPER cheap at Lowes. I got them for 30% off per sheet due to the damage done by the cargo straps while in shipping. Just ask someone who works in the lumber area and ask them if they have any damaged foam board they need to get rid of. I talked the guy up to 30% and he agreed. They weren’t very damaged anyways, and I really didn’t care. They’re going to be out of sight anyways.




The purpose of the foam boards for my build are to help quite the floor, stiffen it up a bit between the spans between my beams, and to help displace water and keep the boat afloat (if I swamp it). The rest will go into voids throughout the boat, such as between my panels on the side and some up front where the cast deck is.

I measured the spans between my beams and took a board to my table saw. Foam is pretty easy to cut, and doing it on my table saw made short work of it.




After making my cuts, I focused on making some “channeling” that would support the foam that was going between the beams and to facilitate water drainage under my floor. I got me a roll of aluminum flashing of 14”x50ft to be used for the channeling.




Here’s an example of what I am trying to achieve. The foam is supported by the channeling, and the channeling keeps the foam elevated, thus allowing proper drainage. The wings (the folded sides that sit on top of the beams) will be riveted down after the floor goes in.




Here is the flashing with the lines indicating where I need to bend.




So to get my bends fairly straight with such long pieces, I came up with an idea of using two 2x4’s to help bend the flashing in place. I just clamped the flashing down to my workbench and put the 2x4 on top of the flashing, clamping it, then put the other 2x4 underneath the flashing that needed to be bent. From there, I just applied pressure to the board, getting my bend. They came out pretty well, and I was pleased with the results.




All done. Got all the foam boards cut and ready to roll.




I also got a nice little surprise from my father in law. A brand new TM. It’s a Prowler T55/40D. I am not sure how I am going to mount this thing. I planned on buying a MinnaKota for the front, but now I have this stern mounted one. I may just put it in the back and purchase a front mounted one later down the road.




Don’t know what I am going to do next. I may just start on working on the front casting deck and rod locker. I guess you’ll know next time I post.


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## Slough Runner (Mar 20, 2016)

This one of the better builds I've read so far. Detail, proper tools, proper supplies and equipment, and more detail. I've been trying to do right on my build also. It's still in the early stages. Anyway...enjoy your ride!


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## Shoedawg (Apr 8, 2016)

Been a few weeks, but I am making some progress on the build. Had the mother-in-law in town for a week and had to burn up two days to take a trip to Wyoming, so I didn't get a whole lot done. Here's what has been going on though.

Started tackling the bow deck and casting deck. I started off making a template for the bow deck. Used some cardboard and traced the outline of the bow, underneath, using a Sharpie.



Heres the template. Used a straight edge to fix the outline up a bit.



After that I cut the template out and transcribed it to my aluminum sheet.



Here she is all cut out. It's an OK fit. I used my Jig-Saw to cut it out. Have a little bit of a gap up front, but I plan on fixing that with some scrap sheet I have left. Plus it's going to be covered with Hydroturf, so not really concerned about it.






Next up was cutting the casting deck. This was a PIA to get right and fit. I ran some thin cardboard over the area I wanted the casting deck to be and did my best to trace the area. The boat tapers toward the front, so trying to get a close template was challenging. I used some clamps and did the best I could to stretch out the cardboard.



Here's the template on the sheet and ready to be cut. Little did I know, I would be pulling the casting deck in and out of the boat and returning to the cutting station about a *BILLION *times. :roll: :roll: :roll:



The problem I was running into with the casting deck was that it keep catching on the inside hull, right below the rail. It was rubbing against the hull and not fully flush with the support brackets underneath the deck. I finally got it to fit after using my angle grinder with a Flap Disk on it. Took some time going back and forth, but it finally went in nicely. It did scratch the piss out of my paint, but I knew it would. Got to retouch up with paint anyway. Have some areas around the top of the boat and rails that need it.


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## Big_ug_chevy (Apr 8, 2016)

Shoedawg said:


> Been a few weeks, but I am making some progress on the build. Had the mother-in-law in town for a week and had to burn up two days to take a trip to Wyoming, so I didn't get a whole lot done. Here's what has been going on though.
> 
> Started tackling the bow deck and casting deck. I started off making a template for the bow deck. Used some cardboard and traced the outline of the bow, underneath, using a Sharpie.
> View attachment 8
> ...




Clean build bro, that aluminum plate was a hug pain in the ass for me too, but it was well worth the back and forth to get it right. Are you sticking with the side consol or going center console?


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## Shoedawg (Apr 8, 2016)

From there I moved on to riveting the bow deck to the support beam. I am using close-end blind rivets. I was happy with the results.



After riveting the bow deck, I pulled out the cast deck and started the measurements for the support brackets for the cast deck.



Here are the brackets that are going to help support the deck. I have them spaced out about 24", so I can later cut two hatch holes and install a pedestal base (7x7). The two red rectangles represent where the hatches will go, with the red square for my seat base. Sorry its *NOT *to scale!!



I used my miter-saw with my Aluminum blade to cut the aluminum angle. Wear ear-pro. It was louder than my wife screaming at me!! The saw keeps the cuts straight and makes some pretty decent cuts.



After cutting I took the brackets over to my drill press and spaced them out evenly. I drilled nine holes for each bracket, then placed them on the deck and used my portable drill to make the holes in the deck, lining them up.



The deck all riveted up. Was pretty easy to do with a pneumatic riveter from Harbor Freight.



I still need to add a lot more support to the deck, but have to wait until I get my hatch lids in and pedestal base. I plan on getting two medium 12.5"x22.5" custom aluminum hatches from R&R Design. They are the guys that make the custom hatches for Cabela's, but for almost *HALF *the price! Here is they're website if interested: https://www.rnrd.com/mpa.main.html

Here is the Cabela's link for the hatches that R&R make: https://www.cabelas.com/product/Custom-Hatch/699966.uts

Price differences:
Cableas: *Small $89.99
Medium $104.99
Large $124.99*

R&R: *Small $57.00
Medium $67.00
Large $78.00*

Pretty big price savings.

Its going to be an EXPEN*$*IVE month for me. I plan on ordering some sheets of Hydro-Turf from GatorTrax, the hatches, and a new throttle control. Also need to order the seats mounts from Springfield Marine. They have a scratch and dent store and the savings are very attractive. If you don't mind a few dents and scratches, give them a look at their website here: https://www.springfieldmarinescratchanddent.com/


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## Shoedawg (Apr 8, 2016)

Big_ug_chevy said:


> Clean build bro, that aluminum plate was a hug pain in the ass for me too, but it was well worth the back and forth to get it right. Are you sticking with the side consol or going center console?



Thanks man. Sticking with the side console. The holes are already there to place the throttle control, and my console base is designed for a side set up. Hopefully I can have it done by the end of May if not sooner.

Yah, the plate was a HUGE pain, but like you said, well worth the effort. I must of done it like 20 times LOL!!


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## Shoedawg (Apr 10, 2016)

Pulled the handled on the seating hardware today. Purchased it all from Springfield Marine's scratch and dent site. Saved $221. Brand new would have ran me $385. Here is what I ordered.

2 Kingpin Power Rise Adjustable Threaded Pedestal (adjust to 16.5-22")

2 7" X 7" Seat Mount Base (for my two seats for the driver/passenger)

1 Kingpin 4" X 8" Threaded Floor Base (for the back deck)

1 Kingpin 7" X 7" Threaded Floor Base (for the front deck)

2 Kingpin Swivel w/Spring (sits on top of the pedestal and mounts the chairs)

3 Rod Holder Stainless Steel (two for the back, one for up front)

Heard some good things about the Kingpin series, so I went with that to keep everything compatible.


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## Shoedawg (Apr 15, 2016)

Got my seating hardware and some samples of Gator Trax Hydroturf in the mail today. I'll start with the Gator Trax samples first.

Wasn't really sure what color or pattern I wanted to put on the boat, so Sue at Gator Trax sent me some samples in the mail. Here are the 4 colors they offer (plus a new, updated tougher version of their Duk Grass Camo).




Now I am not sure why they call the Gator Boat Brown sample, well brown....when it looks like John Boat Green to me. There is a slight tinge of brown in it, but barely noticeable. The color matches my boat pretty good, but the wife thinks the Nat Gear Camo looks better. She think's going with the Gator Brown would be to green.

The lighting isn't the best (sun was on its way down) but here are two pics of the Nat Gear Camo and Gator Brown side by side on one of my painted hatches.

In the shade.



In the sun.



In person, both these colors look great (the pictures don't really do them justice). I am leaning heavily towards the Nat Gear Camo. I have seen pics of other boats with it and the same color boat as mine, on-line, and it looks pretty good. Plus the wife likes it.



Here is their NEW Duk Grass Camo with a tougher tread pattern that is pretty anti-slippage. Its suppose to be more weather resistant and to stand up against abuse. I kind of like it, but right now they don't offer the tougher version in their other colors.



Now on to the seating hardware from Springfield Marines Scratch and Dent store. Below is the 4x7 base plate. I was really surprised how well made and heavy this base plate was (even though it was made in China [-( )



The only damage I could fine was a little bit of chipping on the brass ring (where my finger is pointing). Cost to purchase $20. Brand new it runs $49. The damage is only cosmetic, so not really noticeable. 



Here is the 7x7 plate that is going up front on the casting deck. Very minor scratches on it (seen just below the middle hole from the top). Cost to purchase $19. Brand new, $34.



7X7 Seat Mounts Swivel with Spring. These fit into the top of the adjustable pedestal's I bought as well. Bought them for about $6 a piece, brand new run $13 a piece. Some minor scratches on the bottom, who really cares!!



These two are my 7x7 seat mounts, which are going to be installed on the driver/passenger bench. Just a little bit of paint ding on the lower right corner of the left seat mount in the picture. I couldn't find anything wrong with the one on the right. They ran $5 a piece. Brand new $12.


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## Shoedawg (Apr 15, 2016)

Here is the adjustable pedestal. Its a Kingpin Power Rise. I couldn't find any damage on it at all. They adjust from 16.5" to 22". Wanted to have a little variety for seating and to accommodate different passengers. This way, one can either kinda lean or sit, while fishing. These babies run brand new $74 each. I bought two for $42 each.



All the seating hardware is the Kingpin series and threaded. I read about the pros and cons about threaded vs non-threaded, and went with threaded. All the hardware is 3/4" and I think will be more than strong enough to support a passenger. I do plan on adding some anti-seize to the threads to help make them come off easier for removal.

I also purchases three fishing rod holders. I was really surprised to see these had quality built into them. The caps on them fit very snug and are very durable (not built cheap). The holders themselves are a little heavy and will do well holding heavy rods. *They ran me $6 a piece!!! BRAND NEW $35 for one!!*



Here is a view from the top. The diameter of the hole runs about 2" and I like the fact it has a stopping bar at the bottom to prevent a rod from slipping and adding a way for drainage.



The bottom of the holder showing the stopper rod.



Here is what the rod holders will look like when they are mounted to the decks. I like the flush look. The angle on it runs about 45 degrees and the shaft is about 9" long. I plan on adding one to the front casting deck and the other two to the back deck (one on each side of the boat). If you got the room and if it fits your build, I would highly recommend getting some of these. You cant beat the price for what you get for these babies.



So not a bad score. I did order a new control throttle and some cables (should have those in on Monday) and still waiting for my hatches to be made and shipped from R&R Design. Hope to have those in another week. Just got to order the Nat Gear Camo Hydroturf from Gator Trax (I need four sheets, yikes) and I am all set to really start putting this boat together. Told ya it was gonna be an EXPEN$IVE month for me :shock: :shock: :shock:


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## Shoedawg (Apr 20, 2016)

Got some work done today. Focused on cutting up the foam board and getting them sized up for the install. Used my table saw and a body-saw to do all the work. Makes a dusty mess, but its pretty easy stuff to work with.

Started with the side panels. I just put the board along the panels and traced the outside edges, since all my panels taper from the back to front.



The other panel where the throttle control is mounted (the square hole) and where the steering cable runs through (the rounded hole).



The board matching the panel with the holes cut out.



These panels have dead space between them, when installed in their proper place in the boat. I wanted to fill the space up for a few reasons.

1. To displace any water if I swamp the damn thing and keep me afloat.

2. To help stiffen the panels up a little bit.

3. To help keep things a bit quite (like banging around the sides or a fishing weight from a line hitting the sides).

Using a table saw with a fence makes quick, clean and straight work.



Next I concentrated on making cuts of the foam board to be used around my live well. The idea here is to make the live well into a built in cooler, when its not being used as a live well. There was dead space all around the well, and I figured this foam is used to insulated homes, so I am hoping it helps to keep ice from melting to fast.

Here is what I am trying to achieve. I used a piece of cardboard and made a template for this piece of foam, since the well is slope at the bottom, to help with drainage.



Here's a better shot of the dead space I was talking about (the side of the well). I marked the foam because I would of forgotten which one went where and how :roll:



Here I measured and cut for the bottom of the well and made a notch for the drain.



I finished up with the front, using two boards. I couldn't use one piece because the board was too thick. So I used my table saw to rip the boards down to the width I needed to make it flush with the mounting brackets on the sides of the deck well. Keep in mind, the well is upside down with the drain hole up. It was easier to work on the live well this way.



All the boards fit pretty tight, with the exception of the bottom (or in this case in the picture, the top) and I needed a way to secure it. So I grabbed some aluminum flashing I was using for my drain channels and came up with this.



To secure the flashing, I plan on cutting some aluminium angle, the width of the flashing, and install it along the sides (think of an upside down "L") then rivet the sides of the angle to the deck well and into the top of the flashing. I am hoping its going to work. This way the board will sit flush with the bottom of the well and hold the in place.


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## Shoedawg (Apr 20, 2016)

After cutting up foam board I changed out my blade on the table saw and installed my aluminum cutting blade. I have a tray that I was hoping would fit into the back on the boat where my battery's are going, but it was 4" to long. So I needed to shorten it down.

Here is the tray before the cut.



And here it is after. Surprisingly, the tray was very easy and smooth to cut. Its a pretty thick aluminum tray, and I thought it was going to take some time cutting it. Use cutting wax to maximum the use of your saws, it helps out a lot. Not sure what I am going to do with the other left over piece, but I am sure I will use it some where on the boat.



This is where the tray will be located, but inside the back deck housing.



That was pretty much it for the day. Had a HUGE mess to clean up afterwards. But I did get my new Merc controller in and cables.

Here is the remote control. Its a Quicksilver 4000. Ran me $255. It was the cheapest deal I could find online.



And the two cables for shifting and throttle. They are Quicksilver Gen 2 cables and are 11 feet long. Got a decent price for them , paying $38 a piece for each one.



I really needed to order a new controller and cables. The original control (which was a Quicksilver Commander 3000) was in really bad shape and the old cables aren't compatible with the new controller. I did take a look at the old controller and it was FUBAR!!! I decided the time and effort in trying to fix it, and hoping it held, wasn't worth the time, headache or risk.

Still waiting on my hatches to come in (sometime next week) and I put in a order for some Hydroturf from Gator Trax (should have it next week as well). I think I am going to start tackling the floor and back deck, and getting ready to rivet it all down while I wait for the hatches to come in.


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## Shoedawg (Apr 28, 2016)

Been busy the last few days, with building a shed for the wife and fixing the yard, but I got to tackled the back deck today. I finally got it installed along with the live-well, front panel and made some elevated channels to support my foam. I also got my hatches and Hydro-Turf in a few days ago. Still didn't get the floor in. Hoping to have that done on Sunday after I get back from work. So here we go!

I've been wanting to get the beck deck frame installed for some time now, and that was the first major piece to be riveted down.



I used 1/4" - 3/8" Blind Pop Rivets. All my rivets have an aluminum mandrel in them. These rivets have a larger head on them and are flat-headed. I wanted to have a larger head on them to help keep the deck support in place.



Had to drill new holes (and round out some preexisting ones) to accommodate the rivets. Was pretty easy to do with a good drill bit. *I AM NOT DRILLING THROUGH THE HULL'S BOTTOM*. Even though it looks like it. That is just a enclosed drain channel that the deck sits upon.



After the holes were drilled, it was simply just riveting the deck down in place. I love this pneumatic riveter from Harbor Freight. Was a good price, easy to operate, saves time and saves my arms. Also does a great job getting into tight spaces that need riveted. Should help make the floor a breeze to do.



I used a total of 16 rivets (8 on each side) and then tested to see if the deck would shift. This baby isn't going anywhere.



With the deck in, I slid in my battery tray/plate, along with the fuel tank to see how it looked. Its a really nice fit and will support the batteries very well. I don't plan on mounting it yet until I run the live well plumbing and drain hoses first. It be a PIA to try and fiddle with hose with that tray riveted down.



Next, I moved on to mounting the live-well and getting the foam board installed around it. I also added a small bead of 5200 along the lips to help keep water out before I place the live well down.



Here she is riveted in from the top. I had a little bit of gap on the ends, so I filled it in with some more 5200 and smoothed it out. I'll address the front and back gaps later down the road. I was using a cheap crappy chalk gun that have me one hell of a time to use. My wife saw the pain and suffering I was going through (HA!!) and even said it was a shitty gun. So she is going to buy me a better one this week.



With the live-well done, I threw the front panel in place along with adding the foam board to the front of the well. I do need to support the bottom foam just a bit (to prevent it from slipping a little). I hope the foam does its job and protects the well from heat and keeping the ice cold. I now have me a built-in cooler.


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## Shoedawg (Apr 29, 2016)

Now I needed to rivet down the front panel, and had to use the old school method of "bucking" the rivets to it. I had my wife help me with this. Here are the tools I used. A hammer, a bucking bar (that weird shaped piece of metal) and a flat air-hammer rivet setter (or what ever you call it). The flat-head wouldn't attach to my air hammer (it was just a bit to long) properly, so I had to use a small sledge hammer to do the job.



To "Buck" a rivet, first place your rivet where you want it. Then have a helper hold the bucking bar and press it against the shaft end of the rivet to be bucked. From there, take a hammer and strike the head of the rivet until the shaft of the rivet is "bucked" or smashed. I used the flat rivet setter and placed it on top of the rivet head, then pounded the setter with my hammer. I used this method for a couple of reason:

1. The setter can be used to keep the rivet flush with the hull while putting pressure on it.

2. The setter keeps my fingers out of the way of the hammer and makes it easier to keep the rivet in place (that is, not falling out).

3. I didn't want to risk marring up the paint on the side of the boat with the hammer if I missed the rivet. If I didn't use the setter, I would have screwed the paint job up.

4. You can really hammer harder with a setter and making the rivets buck very well.

Here is what I am talking about.



Here is what a set rivet looks like with the method I described above.



Here are the rivets I used. Aluminum Brazier Head Solid Rivets, 1/4" x 1/2". They run pretty cheap. A bag for 100 rivets ran me about $10.



Before I riveted the front panel in place I put a small dab of *5200 in the holes first*, then I inserted the rivet. I use to coat the shaft of the rivet first with 5200, but found it made a mess on my hands, the tools and got smeared all over the area I was working in, leaving me to clean it up. I found by adding the 5200 into the hole first, made for a cleaner job, and coated the shaft just fine.

Here is the port side we did. Also did the starboard side as well. About 15 rivets all together. Doesn't take much time to do, and pretty easy with the right tools.



From there I moved onto making the elevated channel for the back cavities in the boat. The purpose here is to keep the 2-part foam from touching the bottom and allowing water to drain underneath it. This is what I came up with.



All I did was take some aluminium flashing that measured 14" wide and cut it at about 44" long. From there I cut two pieces of aluminum angle (about 9" long) and drilled 6 holes into it. Three on the top, and three on the bottom. The three on the bottom is where I riveted the flashing to, and the three on the top are for when i go to mount the channel to the transom and the front panel.

Here is what I am trying to achieve to make it clearer. The channel will be riveted and the foam will be pour right on top of the flashing. I may had another small piece of angle in the middle to help support the weight of the foam (which really isn't nothing at all). But the flashing should be pretty tight when it get riveted in.



Just a shot of the drain channel with the elevated flashing in place. Looks good enough to support proper water drainage. I'll be riveting the flashing in some time later on in the build.



Here is the sheets of Gator-Trax I got in. I was impressed by the quality of the material and the color scheme. This is their "Nat Gear Camo". It came with the 3M adhesive on it as well (making my job, hopefully easier). I have lot of boat to cover.



Here is a close up shot.


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## Shoedawg (Apr 29, 2016)

Wanted to also share the hatches I received from R&R Design. These are quality hatches and well built. Very sturdy, heavy and thick. I had three come in (two for the front deck and one for the rod locker). They take about 7-10 days to build, then ship.




They come with a rubber seal already installed and have a pretty deep lip.



Each hatch also comes with its own set of locking hardware and latch. No extra charge for the hardware.



Close up of the welded and painted hatch. The paint job was free. You can get them non-painted, powdered coated and one other method, but I can't remember what it was. I got mine powder coated. Why not? Didn't cost me any more.



I liked them so much I ordered 3 more hatches for the back deck. One for the battery/gas well and two for the small drop in storage tubs. The one hatch will be 32.5"L X 15.75" W and ran me about $150 with the free hardware and paint job. The two smaller hatches will be 14.75"L X 6.75"W and ran me $45 per hatch. Good luck finding a better deal than that.

Here is what the hatches look like (try to imagine a bigger hatch covering the hole) when mounted.



This is where the smaller two hatches will be (one on each side of the boat).



The reason why I ordered three new hatches, was because I didn't like the original hatch lids that came with the boat. There were no lips for them to make install easy and give that nice flush look. Plus the original lids were a little banged up, bent, didn't have a drain lip.....well they were just crap. Here is what I am talking about.

The original lids.



The only lid I am keeping on the boat will be the lid for the live-well, but I'll see how that goes when I get these hatches in and the back deck finished.

I also ordered some other stuff as well. A new vented gas cap, a gas tank gauge, and some hoses for the gas tank (*THOSE WERE NOT CHEAP!!! :evil: *) and some flush mounted cup holders. Holding off on ordering some electric stuff, like a fuse box, switch bank, lights, horn and radio. Still need to research some of those things. Hope to have the floor mounted on Sunday and then move towards attacking the front deck and installing the new hatches. Thanks for reading and keeping tabs on the build.


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## Fire1386 (Apr 29, 2016)

Those hatches look very good, please keep the pics coming after they are installed.....


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## drn1617 (Apr 29, 2016)

Man is it a small world...

I am also in the middle of rebuilding a fisher dominator 17. mine is a 1997 with a 40hp merc but is almost exactly like yours. ill start by saying you got one hell of a deal on it for 900... I'm amazed with your project so far it has given me motivation to keep driving on mine. keep up the good work man. I plan on starting a tread on mine here this weekend its cool to see someone with the same boat!

-Dan


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## Shoedawg (Apr 29, 2016)

drn1617 said:


> Man is it a small world...
> 
> I am also in the middle of rebuilding a fisher dominator 17. mine is a 1997 with a 40hp merc but is almost exactly like yours. ill start by saying you got one hell of a deal on it for 900... I'm amazed with your project so far it has given me motivation to keep driving on mine. keep up the good work man. I plan on starting a tread on mine here this weekend its cool to see someone with the same boat!
> 
> -Dan



Wow. It does look similar to mine. Your boat has a front deck already to go (have to build mine). Is the outside hull painted? If it isn't, its going to save you some time from stripping the old paint. Didn't see a console either. Post some pics in your new thread. Looking forward to seeing it done. If you have any questions about the boat, let me know.


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## Shoedawg (Apr 29, 2016)

Fire1386 said:


> Those hatches look very good, please keep the pics coming after they are installed.....




Will do man. Looking forward to have them installed. Hope to have them in sometime next week. I'll post then.


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## Shoedawg (May 6, 2016)

Well I got quite a bit done over this last week, but still didn’t get the floor in yet, but for good reason (which I will explain later). I did however did cut my hatch holes, pedestal seat and fishing rod holder to the front deck. Here is how I did it.

I first started measuring out the front deck and the hatches to get a center line to make the hatches centered in the deck. I measured from the back of the deck and did some simple math to get lined up and centered.



I used a straight edge and drew my line across the decks middle. The hatches have a mounting hole that are centered on them as seen in the picture below. I’ll be using the line to center the middle holes on the hatches.



From there I placed my hatches and pedestal on top of the deck, centered them, and traced the cut out. Here is what I got.



I started with front hatch first. I drilled four holes in each corner of my cut-out to help start the cut with my jigsaw and to help me round the corners.



First hatch hole done.



Here are the hatches installed. I really like the flush mounted look on these guys.









Here is what the hatches look like underneath. I did have to do some shaving of the hole edges to get the hatches to fit. Once they are installed, I’ll address the gaps on the bottom (you can see them clearly in the pic) with some 5200 around the hatch to prevent water from leaking in.


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## Shoedawg (May 6, 2016)

Next up was cutting a hole for the pedestal base. I used a 2" Bi-Metal Hole Saw and punched right through the deck.



Here is the 7x7 base in place.



Side view of the pedestal base installed. This is a screw-in pin type.



Wanted to see how it all looked together, so I threw the deck onto the boat. Note: The deck is sagging just a bit due to me not having installed the structural support yet for the deck, which I am hoping to have done soon.






I also installed a fishing rod holder.



Here is one of the old seats that I just placed on top of the pedestal. Wanted to see how high the pedestal would raise and how the deck would look like with a seat on it. It rides pretty high (about 22" inches) but its an adjustable pedestal. Kind of nice to be able to lean/stand once in awhile, while fishing. I still need to install a cup holder (which came in yesterday).


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## Shoedawg (May 6, 2016)

Next on the list was trying to come up with a way to protect all my wiring and cables, running from the front to the back of the boat. I decided I wanted some type of PVC to use as a conduit. After doing some measuring and figuring out what I needed I went with some 2" and 1" Electric PVC Outdoor Piping and a few couplings.

Here is the 2" pipe running along the side. This conduit is where my cable throttle controls will run, along with misc. electrical wiring for accessories, lighting, etc.



Now, I couldn't use all the 2" piping to the front, due to my side panels tapering from the top to about 1.5", thus making the 2" pipe not fitting and keeping the panel from being mounted flush with the brackets. So I cut the 2" and used some 1" pipe with a reducing coupling. The smaller pipe is only going to have wires for lights and maybe some speaker wire in it, so I really didn't need much room. I do plan on adding a bow mounted TM, but the battery for that will be going into the front of the boat (where the front hatch is located), so I am not concerned about trying to fish larger wires through the smaller pipe.



Here is the end of the smaller pipe with a swoop attached and right underneath the bow deck. I used my fishing tape to test the set up and see how well I could pull wires through. There were no problems getting the steel tape through the piping.



This pic here is before I installed the piping. The two red circles indicated where the pipe needed to go, with the line kind of showing how I wanted it to flow. This area is the starboard cavity-well, which is going to be filled with pour-in expansion foam.



To get the 2" pipe to bend somewhat to the shape I needed, I used my torch to heat it up and bend it to the desired shape, so it could attach to the coupling and the swoop on the bottom. It doesn't take to much heat to do this method, but you need to be careful heating it up to much. Trying to bend it without heating it up was not going to work. I did try using my heat gun first, but it was just not producing enough heat and would have taken a long time to do. You can see some scorching (where the bend is) but that was just from the film that was on the pipe. The integrity of the pipe remained in tact with no issues and is quite rigid. Just make sure to keep the pipe in the desire shaped as it cools down. I just used my hands to hold it together. Also wear some pretty thick gloves. The heat from the pipe is to hot to handle with bare hands while it cools.



I also did the same thing with the swoop. The hole on the bottom of the cavity is an oval shape, and was not letting the swoop pass through. I just heated up the end and shaped it, then passed it through.



So if you need to bend some pipe, use a torch. It be even easier to have a pipe bender on hand and shape it that way, but I didn't have one. I did all my torching of the pipe outside the boat. I also used piping glue on the couplings to keep everything together, to ensure it wouldn't come undone. I'll secure the piping with stainless steel hose clamps later on down the road.

After that was done, I started to concentrate on the panel where my remote controller was going to be installed. This is the reason why I didn't get the floor installed yet. I wanted to make sure I could mount the controller and run the throttle cables and the steering cable, without any issues before I installed the floor.

The red circle shows where my cables would be ran through (to the conduit) and the red square highlights the bottom of the panel where the floor would sit on top of. That was my issue. See, if I would of installed the floor and riveted it down, and then try to install the cabling and remote controller I was going to have unforeseeable problems. I am glad I didn't install it FIRST! Because I did run into problems trying to install the cables and controller. If I had put the floor in first, I would had to remove it and fix the issues I discovered. I was not about to let that happen!



So here is the first issue I had with the controller. The bolts where to long and preventing the bezel (which holds the control handle) from being flush with my controller panel. So I shortened the bolts by placing them in my vice and hack-sawing them down to the length I needed.



After I got the bolts short and mounted to the bezel I took it over to the panel to see if it would fit. BARELY. First, the controller wouldn't go in from the outside. I had to move the panel outward and place the controller from the inside (this is WHY I didn't install the floor FIRST). The square hole was just a bit to small for the controller to go in from the outside. After I did that, the controller panel still wasn't flush due to the 2" pipe preventing it from being flush. You can kinda see the pipe in the pic, which was causing the problem.



SOOO to fix that issue, all I did was grab my handy dandy torch and heat up the pipe and flatten the area a bit where it was preventing the controller from being flush. I also cut a hole for the throttle cables. I made a mistake though, by making the hole to BIG. I thought I could run my steering cable through it, but didn't realize the steering cable had a big metal shaft on the end (making it impossible to run it through the entire piping. I'll probably just close it up a bit with some duct tape.


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## Shoedawg (May 6, 2016)

Next I needed to address the square cut out in the panel. I wanted to be able to install the controller from the outside after I got the floor installed. So I needed to make the square cut out just a bit bigger to able to do that. It was just a to small to accommodate the controller.



The black lines show how much I needed to cut out.



*FINALLY*. Now I can install this thing from the outside with no worrying about having to rip off the floor.



After fettle farting around, I finally got the controller to be flush.






Here she is with the console, making sure I have clearance for the handle.



With the issues out of the way, I can finally get the floor installed sometime this week. After I was done messing around with the controller I concentrated on the foam boards that are going between the two long panels. To keep them from falling off, all I did was cut some aluminum angle and riveted them to the inside of the panel. From there all I did was push the foam down onto the angle, which went through easy.



Its holding the foam board up pretty good.


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## Shoedawg (May 6, 2016)

I cleaned out the boat with the shop vac and getting ready to seal all the seams along the bottom of the boat with some 5200. The boat (from all the water tests I have done) doesn't leak, but I figure I might as well just seal up those seams for prevention measures. Plus I noticed the seams caught a lot of dirt and debris.




And here she is all 5200 up'ed! This was a messy job and I must of went through about 10 rubber gloves to get it done. The new chalk gun the wife got me worked great. She's been curing for two days now, so hopefully I can get some work done on her tomorrow.



Did get some stuff in the mail. Got me a new plug, gas cap, flush mounted hatch handle for my bench seat, gas reader, and 4 flush mounted stainless steel cup holders.



Also got a new fuel line and gas vent line. Don't need all that hose (just about a foot of hose is all I need) but I guess I doesn't hurt to have extra.



Still waiting on my hatches to come in for the back casting deck. I called R&R this morning to check the status and they should be here sometime in the middle of next week. The plan now is to get this floor installed and cut the framing for the front deck and hopefully start building the rod locker. I am getting closer and closer to getting this thing done [-o< [-o< [-o< [-o< [-o< [-o< [-o< [-o<


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## Fire1386 (May 7, 2016)

The hatches look very nice, build is looking very clean, good job....


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## wmk0002 (May 10, 2016)

Outstanding mod! I just read through the entire thread Saturday and, honestly, catching up was kind of depressing as it was so good but now I have to wait for more posts. I equate it to binge watching multiple seasons of a show on Netflix but then having to watch the current season week by week like normal lol.

I can't wait until you get to the hydroturf install. Lots of guys on here have used it but not many go into too much detail on the install. I have a feeling you will cover all of your bases and give us some great advice on putting it down.


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## Shoedawg (May 10, 2016)

wmk0002 said:


> Outstanding mod! I just read through the entire thread Saturday and, honestly, catching up was kind of depressing as it was so good but now I have to wait for more posts. I equate it to binge watching multiple seasons of a show on Netflix but then having to watch the current season week by week like normal lol.
> 
> I can't wait until you get to the hydroturf install. Lots of guys on here have used it but not many go into too much detail on the install. I have a feeling you will cover all of your bases and give us some great advice on putting it down.



Thanks man. I appreciate it. I'll have some pics up sometime this week. Hopefully by the weekend. I should be doing some hydroturf this week (on the floor that is) and will give some feedback on how I did it. Right now I am in the phase of installing the floor. I have been playing with the side panels and cutting some bracing brackets, making sure the floor will go in smooth and preventing any problems I may come across. Got a lot of work done today, and the plan is for me to rivet that SOB floor DOWN tomorrow!!


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## crazydrake (May 11, 2016)

How sturdy are those hatches? Particularly the biggest one. I am about to order one that is similar, don't know if I'm gonna go for the stock 12x30ish one or get one a little larger like you. Mine will be the only hatch on my front deck, so I will be standing on It some while fishing and wanted to make sure it will hold. 

The shop told me they have a 300lb weight limit so I don't think that will be a problem, but u wanted to know from someone who has one in already.


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## Shoedawg (May 11, 2016)

crazydrake said:


> How sturdy are those hatches? Particularly the biggest one. I am about to order one that is similar, don't know if I'm gonna go for the stock 12x30ish one or get one a little larger like you. Mine will be the only hatch on my front deck, so I will be standing on It some while fishing and wanted to make sure it will hold.
> 
> The shop told me they have a 300lb weight limit so I don't think that will be a problem, but u wanted to know from someone who has one in already.



The larger one I have now is very sturdy to stand on while on the ground. The lid doesn't flex. I have yet to receive the larger one if the mail yet. Still waiting. Hopefully it ships out sometime this week. I still haven't built the framing support for the front deck yet, but do plan on reinforcing the lips around the hatch on the bottom of the deck. I'll share the process with yea when I get to it, which I am hoping is sometime this weekend.

I think you'll be OK, standing on it. I'll be standing on my from time to time, and have no concerns about standing on them or worrying that they will fail on me.


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## Shoedawg (May 13, 2016)

Been busy with the tin for the last few days. I finally got the floor installed =D> and did some work on the front deck. Lets get started.

Here is the floor about to be roughed up with some 40 grit sandpaper. Thought it be easier to rough it up out of the boat, instead of trying to do it in the boat. I used my orbital sander, which did a fine job.



And here she is after...



Here is a close up of the floor. The reason why I roughed it up, is so that the 3M adhesive backing on my Hydroturf had some "teeth" to grab on to when I applied it to the floor. I tried 80 grit, but it seemed it wasn't creating enough teeth. So I went down to 40 grit, which did a fine job of roughing up the surface of the floor.



Did the same to the bow deck.



After that, I decided to run a little test on some methods to applying Hyrdoturf.

Below are three samples of Hydroturf that Gator-Trax sent me. They all come with 3M backing. I wanted to see how well the 3M would hold utilizing three different methods. They are as followed:

1. Hyrdoturf with a *NON-SANDED* surface

2. Hyrdoturf with a *SANDED *surface (using 40 Grit Sandpaper)

3. Hydroturf with a *SANDED* surface and using *CONTACT CEMENT* (DAP Weldwood Contact Cement, Original)

Here is the sample:



I allowed the samples to dry and applied weight (I used several paint cans) to the turf and let them sit about 8 hours. After letting them sit, I went over to see how well the 3M was holding up.

Here is the *NON-SANDED* sample. The turf stuck OK, but was pretty easy to remove. The slick surface just didn't give the 3M to grab onto anything. I wouldn't recommend applying the turf without *FIRST *roughing up the surface.



Next up was the sanded surface. It was pretty tough to remove and stuck very well to the roughed up surface. A lot better than then NON-SANDED sample. I would recommend doing this for your application. (Note: That is my thumb and my thumbnail is a little roughed up. I have had it like that for the past twenty years, thanks to a combine door that slammed onto my thumb. In case you wanted to ask :roll: )



The last sample did very well as well. This sample was roughed up, then I applied a very thin film of DAP Weldwood Contact Cement to it. It did however pull up very easy, after I got a good grab on it. In its defense, the cement only cure for about 8 hours, which isn't really ideal. After 24 hours though, it be pretty tough to remove. I would also recommend using this method. Make sure the cement is water and heat resistant. DAP Weldwood is, and is a fine choice for application purposes.


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## Shoedawg (May 14, 2016)

Moving on, I started to lay down my foam board and elevated channeling, getting it ready for the floor. The foam board sits pretty snug between the channeling and will do a few things for me:

1. Help stiffen up and support the floor.

2. Allow proper drainage underneath the floor.

3. Give the tin some buoyancy and help displace water.




Here is the view from the bottom of the middle drain channel, showing that I will have enough clearance for proper drainage. I did address the little gap between the foam board (shown in the pic). To fix it, I just added some contact cement to the foam and flashing, and that fixed it right up.



I also added some bendable hose clamps to my conduit for my wiring, just to give it some added support and to keep it from bumping around while being trailered or out on the water.



So here is the floor in the boat. Before I started to riveted it down, I drew some lines, to outline where the support beams ran the length of the boat. The reason why I outlined the floor like that, is because I didn't want to start drilling and riveting the floor down, trying to figure out where the support beams were. This way, I took out the guess work and knowing where I needed to drill my holes.



I space out my rivets using my combo square. I had only so many to use, and wanted to be sure I had enough to get the floor in.



Didn't take too much time, but here is the floor, *FINALLY *installed!!! No more moving it in and out of the boat, or placing it out of the way in the shop. The floor is pretty stiff, and there is very, very minimal flex in it. In fact, I hardly can't tell at all. This puppy isn't going anywhere.



With the floor in, I wanted to see what the Hydroturf would look like in it. So I threw it in. I have some trimming to do, but very little. Should be an easy install, but I am going to wait until I address a few other things first. That's one whole sheet of turf. Still have 3 more sheets to use up. I really like the look so far. I did stand on it barefoot, and it was pretty comfortable on the feet.



From there, I needed to fix a worry that was coming from the back. My worry was about the PVC pipe running through the side wall of my back deck. In the picture below, the pipe is just sticking out, and has gaps all around it. This posses a problem, because on the other side of that wall, is where I am filling the cavity with expansion foam. With the gap, the foam is going to spill through, thus leaking into my motor well, and causing a freaking mess. I don't want that happening.



So I purchase a rubber piping reducer and fit it between the hole and ran the pipe through it. It worked like a charm. The rubber flexed and sealed the hole. I may run a bead of 5200 around it for added measure, but think it will do a great job from keeping foam leaking out.



Here is the other side (where the cavity sits, and the foam is going).


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## Shoedawg (May 14, 2016)

After that was taken care of, I focused on the front of the floor, where I had a pretty significant gap between the two outer support beams and the floor. There was just too much flex going on up front.



I needed a way to fill in the gap and to help support the floor from the front. So I came up with an idea of using some of my aluminium scrap from my sheeting, and make some shims for it. I just measured out the beams width and gave myself some length, and cut the scrap down. From there I just sprayed some contact cement to the shims and let the glue set up before putting them all together.



After the glue set up, I put the shims together and clamped them down between some scrap wood and let them dry for a few hours.



The shims worked out pretty good, and gave the support I was looking for. I finished up by riveting them in.



Since I had the table-saw out (when I cut up the shims) I went ahead and cut the floors for the back deck that are going to go over the cavities. Still have to trim them up a bit and cut some hatch holes, but I have to wait until my hatches come in.



Now it was on to attacking and creating the floor for the very front of the boat. I needed to extend the main floor just a little bit to accommodate the far front hatch for a future battery for a front mounted trolling motor and random gear.



Since the area I was working with was not flush and working against the hull, I used some cardboard and shaped it to the angle of the hull, trying to figure out what worked best. This is what I came up with.



With the template made, I traced it out onto some sheeting, cut it out and cut some aluminum angle and added it to the edge of the new floor to add some support. From there I riveted it down to the beams. Its pretty damn solid and will also help support the vertical support bars for the casting deck.



That's all for now. I did get some other work done. I started working on some more framing for the front deck and worked on the bracing for the side panels, but I am too tired to post any thing else tonight :| . I will though, share it later. I'm off to bed. The heat just kicked my butt today.


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## Shoedawg (May 18, 2016)

Got some work done over the last few days, but progress has slowed down a bit, due to running low on pop rivets and still waiting for my hatches to come in. The hatches should be here Friday. I ordered some more rivets and they'll be in on Wednesday. The plan is to get the holes cut for the back hatches on Saturday and hopefully start working on the vertical support for the front deck. I won't be able to work on the boat for about a week after that. Have family coming into town.

Here what I got done so far.

I replaced the original brackets that held the two smaller front side panels. The old ones were pretty crappy, and were chewed up by the prior owner. Plus they weren't holding in the panels very well.



I decided to trim the panels up as well, using my table saw. They too, were uneven and a mess.



Here is the star board side of the front panel with the new bracket installed. I also added a sheet of aluminum scrap to the bottom of the panel and riveted to the panel.



The original owner had cut them short (for some unknown reason) which resulted from the panel not coming all the way down to the floor, showing a pretty large gap. I didn't like it, so that is why i added a sheet to the bottom of it. It kind of looks like crap, but won't be seen, because it'll be covered by the front deck.

I also stiffened up the front deck as well. I added a 1x1 square tube, to help support the back hatch. The bar will also be used to hold the wall I plan on placing in to start creating the storage compartment.



I then added 4 more angle brackets. Two that ran along the hatch, and the other two (which I forgot to take a picture of) runs up in the middle, to help support the middle of the deck and the seat base that is going in.



After the support bars were installed, I grabbed the seat base, and lined it up to drill the holes for the bolts that will hold the base down. I will be using stainless steel hardware to hold it down. You can see the rivets from the support bars that I was talking about, that run down the middle. The bolt holes for the seat base run through the angle brackets, offering more than enough support for the base.



This is just me playing around with some ideas, to help support the floor. I am just trying to come up with different ways to build the support beams with the material I have on hand. I just have to make sure I build it right, for I want to attach some compartment walls, and have enough support to stand on safely.



Here is a pic of one of the walls (this one will go towards the back of the front deck, facing towards the back of the boat). As I mentioned before, you can see the square bar (that is going to help support the lip of the back hatch) that the wall is going to be attached to.



I also got my rub rail in this week. I wont install it until I am about done with the boat. It fit pretty snug and looks good. I plan on soaking it in hot water in a cooler to help to stretch the rubber out for the install. Its suppose to make it easier by doing that, so we will see.


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## Shoedawg (May 18, 2016)

Next up on the list was the Hydroturf. Since the bow and front decks were still not installed, I took the opportunity to cut he turf to size while the decks were free.

First was trying to figure out how to save as much Hydroturf that I could, without having to do some crazy cuts. The floor won't be a issue, and will require just minimal trimming near the sides. The front deck I had to spin (opposite of the grooves that are in the turf that run parallel with the floors turf) to save on material. The grooves run from side to side of the boat, but it was the best way to cut the turf. It still looks good and covered the deck. Plus there was no crazy fill in cuts to make.



This is what I am talking about. If I ran the turf and cut it this way, I would had to cut additional turf out to fill in those sides showing aluminum towards the back of the deck. It was just to an awkward of a cut to deal with and try to get right. SOOO I saved myself a headache and went the other direction.



I clamped the turf and deck down and used the deck itself as the template for my cuts. I also allowed about an inch on each side of the deck of turf to adjust and trim, when I put it the turf down for good.



I used an Xacto knife for all my cuts. It did a fine job and made the cuts super easy to do. Cutting into the turf was easy and the Xacto blade made some really clean cuts. Here I am cutting the hole that is for my seat base.



After all my cuts were made, I got a little excited and wanted to see how how the hatches, seat base and rod holder looked liked, with the turf in place. So I threw it all together on the boat and really liked the results. Have a little trimming to do, and need to had some scrap turf to the back of the deck, but I think it will turn out good.



Did the same for the bow. Like I mentioned before, gave myself some room to play with the trim.



Heres an overall shot with everything in place with the turf.



I also made some new channeling brackets for the back cavities. My original idea was a PIA to work with, so I came up with this, to replace the old idea.



The idea I have here is that its going to be installed (and elevated) in the back cavities, then either a piece of flashing or foam board (haven't decided yet) will be placed in the middle and on top of the new bracket channeling. From there I'll pour my foam in, right on top of the elevated bracket. This one here has been riveted into the front and back of the cavity.



Here is the other side I did. This one needed a sheet to run underneath my electrical conduit to help prevent the foam from flowing to the bottom. Plus it will make it easier for me to attach the foam board or flashing when I get around to installing it.


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## Shoedawg (May 19, 2016)

I also did some painting. I had a bunch of scratches on the side panels, the rail and the back, that occurred from when I was moving the floor and casting deck in and out of the boat. I wanted to paint BEFORE I installed the Hydroturf, so I got busy.

I sanded all the bad areas first, then wiped them down with some Acetone and put some primer down.






I also painted my rivets that were replaced after I painted the boat.



Here she is all painted up and done. Even painted the new panel brackets and panel sheet. She look's a hell a lot better than before. Those scratches were just driving me crazy, but I knew I was going to get to them.









Also got the drain plug, the U-bolts (that are on the back of the boat for the trailer tie downs), gas cap, bilge drain orifice, and motor well drain installed as well.












It's coming along, and I hope to have this bad boy done by the middle of June, so I can take it up to Montana and slay some fish with it. I have to be honest with ya, its cutting it close :shock: :shock: :shock: but I am staying positive that its close enough to start fishing in.


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## drn1617 (May 24, 2016)

your build is coming along great.. it should be an awesome boat that lasts forever! are you going with a 12 or 24 volt trolling motor?


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## Shoedawg (Jun 2, 2016)

drn1617 said:


> your build is coming along great.. it should be an awesome boat that lasts forever! are you going with a 12 or 24 volt trolling motor?



Starting with a 12 volt first, then maybe move up to a 24. I have the room up front for two batteries. I hope it does last a looooong time. :mrgreen:


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## Shoedawg (Jun 3, 2016)

I have been working at the tin pretty hardcore for the last 5 days, putting in long hours to get this puppy done. Had family in town for a week, so no work got done, but it was a good break from the boat for awhile. So here is what I have got done.

These are the hatches that came in. The BIG one is going over the battery/gas tank well, while the two little ones will be used for drop-in storage. Plus the hatches will make up part of the back deck.



Here I cut up two sheets of aluminum that will be part of the back deck, going over the port side and star board side of the cavity wells.



About to start cutting out the hole for the little hatches. I used a large drill bit to help me start my cuts and to round the corners. Using the jig-saw made it pretty simple work.



And here are the hatches in place and exactly where I wanted them.



Just a pic of one of the hatches open.



I placed the big hatch over the well, seen here, to see how it all looked. 



The big hatch is going to give me a little challenge, though. There are welds along the corners of the big hole that the hatch is going into, but is preventing the damn thing from going in smoothly. I had to sand down the welds just a bit to get the hatch to fit. It took *A LOT* of time to do. I didn't want to sand to much of the weld down and thus risk loosing it. Eventually I got the hatch to fit, but its *TIGHT!!!* I finally had to cheat and used some of my cutting wax to reduce the friction of the corners and tap the hatches corners down with a rubber mallet. I got it flush, but it was a *PIA* :evil: After getting it down, I stood on it to test it for strength and it was very stable.

Next up was cutting the holes for the rod and cup holder. I have several large hole saws laying around and they did a great job of cutting through the sheet. Use em' if you have them. Larger ones can get kinda pricey, so look at Harbor Freight for cheaper ones if you need them just for making cuts in your deck.



Here is the rod and cup holders dry fitted. I really like the flush mounted cup holders I purchased. I put the cup holder towards the back to keep it out of the way while fishing and to give me space for standing and walking over the deck.



This is the star board side with another rod holder towards the back. I now have three rod holders for the boat installed. Two in the back and one up front. I was going to add a 4th one, but decided against it. Didn't really think I needed that many in the boat. I put two in the back, in case I wanted to troll for a bit.



And finally I drilled and installed the cup holder for the front deck. I really didn't know where to put it at first on the deck until my wife suggested I put it right under where the seat is going. Not a bad idea. Its out of the way and you cant step on it. Plus it'll be shaded from time to time from being under the seat. I did a little test before I drilled the hole to see if it would be easy to reach for a drink and it was.


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## Shoedawg (Jun 3, 2016)

Now it was on to cutting the Hydroturf and fitting to size for the back deck and all my hatches. Like before, I fitted my pieces right onto of the turf and cut the holes using my exacto knife and razor roller (looks like a pizza cutter). I gave self about half and inch on the sides (length ways) for play when I finally put it down.



This is how I did the hatches. I clamped them facing down, then open the lip outwards, and cut the turf using the edge of the hatch lid and cutting out the latch hole. I didn't give myself any extra turf on the lids because there was no need to.



And here are all the hatches with their turf cut and ready to go. I wont install the turf on the hatches until about the end of the build.



And here is the back deck sheets with the turf cut out.



Next up was the front casting deck and reinforcing it and adding some structural legs for support.



I used three beams for the front which will also support a wall that is going to be attached to them (to help start creating the front storage area). The wall will cover about 3/4 of the back with a hole on the left of the deck. This "hole" will be part of my rod locker. When I get to it :|



This beam here is going to be attached to the bottom of that angle bar and to the floor.



Heres all the support beams. Its pretty stable and the edge of the deck will be sitting on brackets and riveted down but the deck need more support along the left and right sides. There was some flex along those sides I wanted to address.



So I measured and labeled a bunch of angle and drilled/riveted them down onto the deck. I had to make sure that I didn't go all the way out to the edge of the deck with the angle, due to having the support brackets (that are already installed on the inside of the deck area) being in the way and to help support the rest of the deck.



Riveting in the angle. I tell you what. That pneumatic riveter from Harbor Freight has been a *CHAMP!!!* With the amount of riveting I have done, it has really saves my arms and time. After I got the support in and stood on the deck to test it out, and it was solid and very stable to stand and move about on. Shouldn't be a problem.


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## Shoedawg (Jun 3, 2016)

I do plan on helping support the angle legs some, by adding cutting out two angles and adding them to the inside of the support beam like this.



Now the reason why that angle isn't flush with the angle beam, is because that angle beam doesn't have a true 90 degree corner. What I mean by this is that the angle beam does sit at 90 degrees but the corner of it is kinda filled in and rounded. That is because it is 6061 aluminum angle (I think that is the number) and is used for structure support. The gap seen between the two angles though, will be filled with another piece of angle, going the other way of the one shown here. This way, I have peace of mind about support. Both the top and bottom are getting this done.

If you look to the very far left towards the back of the picture (or in this case towards the front left of the deck) you can see the how I have two angles attached to the bottom of the beam.



Does anybody's work bench look like this while working??? No wonder I spend 20 minutes looking for something that I just set down 5 minutes ago :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll:



After messing around with the deck, I took a break from it and went to the back of my cavity wells to seal the gaps I had from my elevated channels. I plan on pouring foam into these channels and didn't want any of it leaking into the bottom. So I used some good ole' fashion duct tape to seal the gaps up to prevent that problem from happening. I also added some aluminum shims to the side brackets in the wells to help support the back decks that are going over the wells. Keep your scrap. It comes in handy.



Also added some support across the span of the back decks. These are 1x1 squares. Again very stable.



Did the same for the front bow deck. I had just one support bar, but there was still a little to much flex for my taste of comfort. So I added another bar to it.



I also added some support for the live-well/cooler lid. I painted the bars black to keep the aluminum shine down. Here is just some of what it looks like so far. Still have to add some more support. I will share the rest of it later.






And this is where I am now. I put the turf down for the floor and put the deck in and called it a day. The plan is to get the turf installed in the floor and to stick the rest of the cut out turf to the bow deck, front deck, back deck, hatches, and install all the seat hardware, rod/cup holders and hopefully rivet the front decks down for good. If I get all that done at a decent time, then I will start putting in my console and bench seat. I really want to get this baby on the water soon.


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## Shoedawg (Jun 5, 2016)

Well I finally got the HydroTurf installed, permanently, on the floor and bow deck. I also spent sometime drilling holes for the back decks to prep them for riveting. Also got the front casting deck installed and riveted down as well. Here we go....

Before I could rivet down the front deck, I needed to address a pretty significant gap that was keeping the very front edges of the deck from making contact with the support brackets. There was a good amount of flex on the sides, so I went to my scrap pile of aluminum sheets and made some shims. I tact'd the shims together with some super glue (to prevent them from slipping, somewhat, when I drilled into them) and riveted them down.






The shims did the trick and really made a difference for support. Like I said before, hang onto that scrap. Never know when it may come in handy.

After that was done, I riveted in the bow deck and then focused on applying all my cut outs that I made with the turf and attached them to all my hatches. The turf already had 3M backing on it, so all I had to do was remove the wax paper on the back and apply. To help even out the turf and make sure the turf was making contact with the hatch lids, my wife used a cheap rolling pin, using pressure, and rolled it about the turf, causing it to adhere well.



When we got all the turf on the hatches completed, it was time to put in the floor. Before I laid the turf down for good, I did a quick sweep and shop-vac'ed any debris, dirt, metal shavings, and gave it a good scrub with some dish soap and a rinse then allowed it to dry. I wanted to make sure I had a clean surface before I applied the 3M adhesive backing to the deck to ensure a good stick.



Now, it wasn't to difficult laying down such a large piece of turf, but I would recommend a helper. Before we even applied it, we played with the turf to find where we exactly wanted it to be, and what was the best way to apply it (length ways, width ways). We decided length ways would be the best method.

To get it started we tore about a 1/4 of the paper backing, length wise, and kept the rest of the paper on the turf. Keeping the remaining 3/4 of the paper on the turf allowed us to step on the it, while we applied the exposed backing to the first area to go down. Like this.



After getting the first part down, we then did the same technique until it the whole thing was down and applied to the floor. From there it was a matter of just trimming up the excess turf. Using a Xacto knife works well. Be careful though. Using the Xacto can and will but a fine scratch line into your paint job. It did with mine, but I am not concerned, because I plan on putting some turf on the wall.



With the floor in, and having some scrap turf left over from the lids, I wanted to cover the rest on the front. It was patch work, but will do the trick. Plus its going to be covered by the deck and be out of site anyways.



I threw on the deck to get it ready to be riveted down for good. Before I could officially do it, I had to cut around the feet of the deck stands, to get them flush with the deck, then pop'd some rivets into the floor.



A shot from underneath the deck, *FINALLY* mounted!!!



I wanted to see how the front deck would look like with with the hatches, rod/cup holders and seat base. So I threw it all together and this is what it looks like so far. The bow deck is mounted and carpeted already as well. The deck itself is *TIGHT*, and very stable. I can't feel any flex. It feels very strong and supports me just fine. I am so glad I am done with it. Just have to add the wall to the back of it, turf it over and then its done.



I was running out of time for the day, so I didn't get a chance to turf the casting deck, but that is the plan for tomorrow. Got to trim it up some and it should be good to go.


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## Shoedawg (Jun 5, 2016)

I also dry fitted the back of the boat. Here is what it all looks like together.









The saga continues on Project Shoebox. I hope to get a lot done over the next two days. The goal is to get foam poured in on Tuesday, or sooner and finish the rest of the back. Stay tuned...


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## beagler1 (Jun 6, 2016)

Is that aluminum stock that you used to frame out the deck really expensive? Like compared to wood?


Sent from Mossy Oak Swamp Bottom


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## Shoedawg (Jun 7, 2016)

beagler1 said:


> Is that aluminum stock that you used to frame out the deck really expensive? Like compared to wood?
> 
> 
> Sent from Mossy Oak Swamp Bottom




Not at all. Here is what the stock is and how much I paid for it:

6063 Aluminum Square Tube 1x1x1/8 wall T52 *(21ft) **$26.82*

6061 Aluminum Angle 1.5x1.5x1/8 wall T6 *(25ft)** $22.58*


Find a local aluminum dealer to buy such sizes. The BIG BOX stores will charge a high mark up price on aluminum, if you buy through them.

I wouldn't use wood to help save a few bucks. With the cost and time to seal it properly, the weight it adds to the boat, and then having to rebuild a deck, floor, etc. again in a few years due to rot, paying the extra cost for aluminum is worth it.


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## beagler1 (Jun 9, 2016)

Im all about less wood better. I def want to frame mine with aluminum square stock!! Thx


Sent from Mossy Oak Swamp Bottom


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## Shoedawg (Jun 9, 2016)

Well I got the foam poured in the back and also finished up the front deck. I'll start with the front first, then will share my experience with the 2-part foam. Lets get started.

I needed to start closing up the front deck and needed to build a wall. The right side of the deck, where the edge of the wall was going was at a angle, and I wanted the wall to be one piece. So I used a electronic angle finder to help me find the degree that I needed.



After measuring a doing some cuts, I riveted the wall to the deck and roughed it up with some 40 grit sandpaper on a orbital sander, to help the Hydroturf stick.



Next was putting the turf down onto the deck itself, then the wall. I used the same technique I used for mounting the turf to the floor. Again I peeled, about half the wax paper off, then applied it to the floor loosely, shown below.



After that side was done, I did the remaining half, applied it, then smoothed it out with my rolling pin and trimmed the excess turf.



Here is the wall being rolled out. I though this was going to be difficult to apply, but it was pretty easy to do. The turf also forms well over the edge of the deck, giving a nice clean look.



After the turf work was done, I riveted down the hatches and installed all the locking hardware, bolted the seat place in place and installed the cup and rod holder. ALL DONE!!!



Ok so I know what you are thinking. What is going on with the left side of the deck and that gaping hole??? That is part of my rod locker set up and that is the area where it will be extended to. I have yet to build or even started the locker, and may not get to it by my deadline date. If I have time before I leave, then I will build it. If not, I am not to worried about it, because it's something I don't really need to have before I take it to Montana. But it will get done at the appointed time.

Just a better view of the wall.



Here I am standing on the casting deck. I am very happy with the results and glad the hard work paid off. This baby is stable and strong, and should even withstand some of my heavier passengers that come along.



Another view of the completed front.



Also got a brand new fuel reader installed into my gas tank. The original one was in bad shape.


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## Shoedawg (Jun 9, 2016)

Okay, now onto the foam process. Here is what I did.

Before I started, I first wrapped my drop-in storage in plastic. The reason why I did this, was to prevent the foam from adhering to the storage while I set it in the cavity to be filled. The foam doesn't stick to plastic, making it easy to remove the storage and help create a cavity within the foam. I'll show you what I mean in a little bit.



To make sure my storage containers where going to be properly under the hatches and inline, I duct taped the storage underneath my back decks. That way they wouldn't slip or move when I added the foam solution. I was not sure (at this point in the progress) how the foam was going to react.



Alright, so this is what I am working with. I have my 2-part foam, some cheap plastic cups, a couple stir sticks, a Sharpie. I also added a two plastic mixing cups and lots of rubber gloves.



I started out small first, and conducted a test to see how the foam would play out. I labeled two cups, *A & B*, each cup for the different chemical. I also drew a line around the cup to mark where to stop while pouring. There is no complex measuring here. It is a simple 1:1 ratio per the instructions on the foam containers. Also notice the different colors in the cups due to the different solutions.



From there, I grabbed a dedicated plastic mixing cup (large enough to hold both solutions) and poured them together into the cup.



After pouring, just simply stir the foam components together for about *25 seconds* keeping an eye on it and starting to get thicker and expanding.



After the foam starts to expand, you have to move quickly and start pouring. I used a cardboard to see how the foam would expand and react. It kinda looks like pancake batter.



After pouring I let it sit and watched how far it would expand.



Getting bigger.



This stuff doesn't take to long to set up and expand. It will set up and harden in a few minuets. It also gets pretty warm and will stay that way until it cools. Don't touch it for a few minuets. After that it will feel spongy, then start to harden. I was able to stand on it after about 15 minuets and it was rock hard.

*NOTE: * The instructions recommend to pour foam in temperatures of 80 degrees or higher. Doing so, greatly expands the foam, thus saving you material. If you were to pour foam in 50 degree weather, the expansion ratio will be reduced quite a bit (I think about 30%). It was 95 degrees in my garage, while I did my foam job.


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## Shoedawg (Jun 9, 2016)

So, now that I got an idea how this stuff works, it was time to pour the foam into the back cavities of the boat. I would *HIGHLY *recommend that you do your stirring over the area you intend to pour in. This stuff mixes fast and expands quickly in the cup. Stirring over the area to be poured will ensure you get it over the area quickly, and not making a mess all over your working area, floor, etc. while you are trying to run to your pouring area. See the below picture of what I mean.



You can pour the two parts together and not worry about it expanding until you start to mixing the solution together. Once you start mixing (again about 25 seconds) it will start to set up. You will also feel the mixture start to thicken up. You'll see when its ready to pour.



Here is what the first pour looks like after about two minuets setting up. Now, I did, however double my solution, unlike what I used for my test pour, to help fill in the cavity areas faster. I used two measuring methods. A small measure (which I called *SINGLE*) and a large one (called *Double*). That way I could fill in smaller areas, without having to use double amount of foam, and risk it going over the cavity. This way, I had some control over how much I wanted and needed.



Continuing the process...



Here is one of my storage boxes sitting in the foam, while the foam conforms and shapes around it. I had to work quickly here. First I poured into the area where the storage was going, then threw the back deck (with the storage box attached) right on top of the cavity while the foam was expanding. I let it sit for about 10 minuets before removing the deck.



As you can see, the foam formed around the storage box and created a built in area that the box can sit in and be supported. With the box wrapped in plastic it was able to be pulled out. It did take a bit of wiggling and lifting, but it came out. The box fits pretty snug.



Pouring some more foam into the cavity and filling up the sides to support the storage boxes.



Here is what one of the storage cavities look like.



You can also reuse your mixing cups, if you want, to save some money. Just let it set and dry, then chip it out with a putty knife or pull it out with your fingers. Most of the time it pull out in one piece and the cup will be clean. This worked with the plastic cups I used.



It took me about two hours to fill in both cavities and I was happy with the results. Make sure you wear rubber gloves and not get that crap on your hands. Its a PIA to wash and get off. The whole process was pretty easy to do and I think anybody can do it. I was done for the day after this. It was just way to damn hot working in the garage to go on, plus it was getting late. The rest of the deck should be on tomorrow and hopefully I can get the motor on Saturday. Good luck with your foam if you plan to use it.


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## beagler1 (Jun 10, 2016)

You think "self tapping screws would work as good or better for building the deck? Obviously rivers through anything that goes through the hull..

What rivets did you use?


Sent from Mossy Oak Swamp Bottom


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## Shoedawg (Jun 11, 2016)

beagler1 said:


> You think "self tapping screws would work as good or better for building the deck? Obviously rivers through anything that goes through the hull..
> 
> What rivets did you use?
> 
> ...



I used an assortment of different sized rivets and types. I used solid rivets for below wine (those you have to buck) and pop rivets. I am not sure about self tapping screws for your deck work. I had some I pulled out on the old wooden deck, and they were in bad shape and rusted up. They were a PIA to get out too, but thank is what the prior owner used. Try posting your question of the Boat House threads. You should get some feedback there.


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## Shoedawg (Jun 11, 2016)

Well I got the motor on the boat today. Sorry no pictures on it yet. The motor starts up but isn't getting enough fuel. Since the motor has been sitting so long, I assume the carburetor needs to be cleaned, so that is what I plan on doing tomorrow morning. I did get the back deck mounted and riveted down, but spent most the day playing with the motor. I'll post the carb cleaning job sometime this week. Crossing my fingers they are just gummed up and dirty.


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## beagler1 (Jun 11, 2016)

"Buck" rivets?


Sent from Mossy Oak Swamp Bottom


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## Shoedawg (Jun 11, 2016)

I explain the the process of "bucking" on page 10 of my thread. Its about half way down the page. Look for the picture of the hammer. It starts there.

Here is the link to it: https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=33272&start=135


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## Shoedawg (Sep 24, 2016)

WOW!!! Its been 3 months since I posted!! Sorry for the delay everyone, but I was busy the last three months. I was on vacation, busy at work and home, and broke my wrist. But I do have great news:




*I FINISHED PROJECT SHOEBOX!!!!*

I actually finished it up on the 20th of June. I had plans to go to Montana for a week on the lake at the end of June and really wanted to take the boat with me. I put in about 18 hour days for about a week (on my off days) to make sure I was taking her with me. It was A LOT of work, but I did it and was able to finally put her on the water for the first time since I bought the boat almost 2 years ago.

Now, she isn't 100% finished. I would say she is about 95% done. Just have to redo some wiring and little stuff here and there, but she is functional and I'll explain how she did on the water later on in this thread.

But lets start back to where I left off the carb cleaning.

After I got the motor back on, and ran her up and she was having some trouble. I figured the carbs were dirty and gunky from the old fuel that had been sitting in the fuel bowls for 2 years.



I was not really sure how to clean carbs on a OB and never had before. I had downloaded a Merc manual for my motor and watched a few YouTube videos on how to do it. The process was pretty easy and straight forward. Here is one of the carbs. I am about to screw out the fuel plug for the fuel bowl to drain it of left over fuel.



*NOTE*: Make sure you mark your carbs in the order that you found them. I marked my Top, Middle, Bottom, so I knew which carb was what and where it went when I put the back on the motor. Also keep the parts of that carb together and not scattered all over your work bench. That way those parts go with their intended carb.

Here is the bottom inside of one of the fuel bowls in the carb. Notice all that gunk? It needed to be cleaned out.



To clean up all the carbs I soaked the down and let them sit for about half a day with some Mercury Power Tune.



After a nice soak, I used a brass brush to clean the rest of the carbs up. They look a hell of a lot better than before and really needed to be cleaned.



I also had to purchase a new gasket kit for the carbs. The original ones were worn and torn. Here is one of the carbs with all it's part and new gaskets.



Putting on the final touches of the last carb. Now I could add them back onto the motor.



After getting them back on, I fired up the motor and tuned the carbs a bit and she was running up just fine and idling good, but not great, but better than before.


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## Shoedawg (Sep 24, 2016)

Here is the back of the boat. I needed to get the back deck mounted and riveted down. The foam did it's job and the drop-in storage fit in the foam real well.



I also installed the gas tank and added a new fuel hose and vent line to the tank.



Here is the back of the deck all completed, with everything riveted down and Hydroturf applied. This deck is SOLID and will support a lot of weight. The hatches, cup holder and fishing rods are easy to get to as well. I am really happy with the results.



Here is the console installed. Just needed to had the steering assembly to it and windshield and gauges.



With the console installed, I still needed to finish up the seating for the driver and passenger bench, build the rod locker and add the throttle controller to the side. I still had a loooong ways to go.



Here is the controller, the steering wheel and seats installed.



The next PIA job was installing the rubbing rail. This took FOREVER to do. I think I spent like 4 hours getting it on. I read somewhere to help make the install easier was to put the rubber strip into a bucket of hot water and some soap and let it sit. I guess its suppose to make the process easier, but I couldn't tell you if it did or not. Here the stripping sitting in hot water and soap (hoping to make it more flexible).



I used a plastic putty knife and a rubber mallet to help me tap it in. This was such a ooooh so fun project (sarc off)!!



I worked late into the night getting this done. My hands were cramped and sore afterwards. Not easy to do. But here are the finished results, taken in the morning. I am glad I bought some rub rail. It looks great on the boat.


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## Shoedawg (Sep 24, 2016)

It was time to tackle the rod locker. I don't have a lot of pictures for it, because I was short on time and trying to finish this up before I left. I only had one day to get it done, because I was leaving the next morning to go to Montana.

Here is the inside framing I did.



The wall about to be attached.



The back end of the locker. This was a pretty challenging fit, but I was pretty happy with the results.



I got the locker finished just in time, but didn't get to put the Hydroturf on until I got to Montana. Here is the locker all finished up. I still need to address the bare aluminium surrounding the top of the locker, but I was fine with it as it is for now.






I also bought some new seats. I had the old one's on there, but they were in pretty bad shape. Plus the new ones really look good on the boat.



A couple of views of the boat completed.


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## Shoedawg (Sep 24, 2016)

*AND HERE SHE IS ON THE WATER!!!*









She ran great while out on the water! I had her in the water for a total of seven days, which got me a lot of time to work out some kinks and little issues. Other than that, she is an awesome fishing boat. She is very stable with passengers on the front and back decks, can easily go into shallow water, isn't heavy and travels pretty fast. I don't have any gauges hooked up to her yet, so I cant tell you how fast she really is. 

Also, there were *NO LEAKS* what so ever. She was dry as a bone on the bottom. And she sat in the water for 7 days, tied to the dock. 

I was also the very *FIRST* one to catch a fish on her. I went solo fishing and wanted to see if I could handle the boat by myself and caught some decent sized pike.



It's been a great adventure on this build and I learned A LOT!! I can't believe what she use to be when I bought her and what she looks like now. It was a lot of hard work and time, but well worth the effort. I didn't think I could get this done, but I did. It took about a year and a half to complete, with the bulk of the work starting in January of this year, and working almost non-stop on her. I have also taken her out on the Snake River here in Idaho and she does great on the river.

I do however have some work to finish up on her. I still need to redo the wiring, add the console gauges, and fix a few minor issues. I am also on the fence about building an aluminum console for the top, since the plastic one started to crack due to travel and being out on the water, but other than that, she is pretty much done. I'll post when I get to those and show the complete work, but I am going to take it easy for awhile, and enjoy the boat for the upcoming duck season and fall fishing.

Thanks to all of those that were keeping tabs on my build and the great advice and help on this forum. Sorry I am so late posting the update. Tight Lines Everyone!!!

Shoe


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## The10Man (Sep 24, 2016)

Looks awesome! I bet it feels great to know that all the hard work has paid off and you can finally begin to enjoy it. I've enjoyed following the build. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## chevyrulz (Sep 26, 2016)

the R&R hatches look well made, how waterproof are they?


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