# My winter project...



## DryFlyRy (Nov 27, 2008)

Alright, well I have been one of those evil silent spectators lurking in the shadows of this forum without becoming a member for a few months now (I've actually developed a small addiction  ) and I finally signed up as my boat is officially in the garage for the winter ready for its make-over. I was so happy when I found this site! I wasnt sure anyone else was crazy enough to mod out these old tin boats exactly the way I wanted to, but sure enough! I couldnt believe the wealth of information and ideas that you've all contributed. So I just want to thank everyone in advance for making this project a heck of a lot easier than it would have been without tinboats.net!

Without further adieu...

"The Coulda-Shoulda-Woulda" 
14' Starcraft Aluminum circa 1967-1969 with a 1971 9.5 Evinrude Sportwin and min kota tolling motor (hand steering):






























The first official "mod": Bilge pump and discharge.

















And here are my plans:
I photo shopped a bunch of pics together and all the stuff out to make a blank slate...




And then used my graphic design skills to render a rough idea about what I would like to do...




And then the color scheme/decals...





So there you have it! A few initial questions I have are: I would like to use aluminum angle instead of wood for the weight and durability however I have absolutely no experience with it. I am much more comfortable around 2x's and screw guns (and so is my wallet :wink: ). Is it easy to work with this stuff? are rivets a pain in the but? Can I use one of those cheap 20 dollar rivet tools? what size angle should I use? Also, the boat is currently upside waiting for some paint... I would say 90% of the original is still bonded nice with a few small patches of bare metal and some "sprinkles" of like 1/2 inch bare spots. Now should i use the self etching primer on just the bare spots or cover the whole thing? will it eat away the existing coat of paint? or am I going to have to mask off each bare spot... (I would reeeaaallllyyyy rather not have to sand down the entire thing...)

Again thanks in advance! I'm glad to now be a part of the community!


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## DryFlyRy (Nov 27, 2008)

Oh and P.S.

Happy Thanks Giving!!!
:beer:


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## Captain Ahab (Nov 27, 2008)

Welcome Aboard - Nice graphic skills!


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## Waterwings (Nov 27, 2008)

Welcome Aboard, and nice rig! 8)


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## FishingBuds (Nov 27, 2008)

Welcome aboard mate  

First your layout is awsome, evrything seems to be in easy reach which makes for a comfy trip :lol: Look forward to the pics of the project.

Does your chocolate friend go with ya on the fishen trips? 

as for rivets and aluminum-I hear ya loud and clear, I worked thru on this issue of going wood or Aluminum, I picked aluminum for a few reasons, strength, storage space and strength. here is my project and I have a few things on this https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=3586 I even have a comment on the rivet gun too. Look thru it and post some questions for us, as for the wood way-I was close on doing it. Just don't use any pre-treated wood, its bad for the aluminum. Soak your regular wood down with Thompson sealer and its done.

Your paint if still origanle would be well worth scuffing up a bit and lay down a full coat of etching primer on the intire boat, Cutting corners on the paint job shows in my oppinion. If the boat is layed up to do it, I say do it. Now all ya have to do is just scuff it up not sand down to metal.

But its your project which is the cool part, you get to do it your way :wink: 

Have at it =D>


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## Cheeseball (Nov 27, 2008)

Welcome friend. Nice little starter rig. What kind of water do you typically fish?


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## bassboy1 (Nov 27, 2008)

> Is it easy to work with this stuff?


Yes.


> are rivets a pain in the but?


No.


> Can I use one of those cheap 20 dollar rivet tools?


Yes.


> what size angle should I use?


Depends on the span length, and what it is supporting. I would see the correct combination of 1.5 inch angle in some places, and 1 by 1 inch square in others being the cheapest, lightest, easiest method. 

I would also recommend using aluminum sheet as well, if the wallet can take it. Eliminate wood and you eliminate rot, and the need to cover (except to keep the leaves out - carpet will be fine in the rain, but will be a soggy mess until the sun comes out). 

I like your layout, but I would recommend putting the aft seat on one of the aluminum 3/4 inch pin style bases, then putting a second base in the center. I have that on my rig, and trust me, your backseater will like to have a pedestal, and be in the center.


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## delmonte67 (Nov 28, 2008)

Nice layout bro! I have a 12' v hull I finished this past summer, from bare shell to totally modified, totally sanded and painted (trailer was a rusty mess!) totally carpeted with decks, 5 lights wired to a toggle switch box, 12 volt plug in for spotlight, I used 3/8 inch plywood (waterproofed with thompsons) light wood underneath for support. My friend and I are big boys 250 each, we walked on the decks, and sat in the pedestal seats-no problem! Boat floats awesome, 6hp Johnson and gear too! The only thing I"ll add this winter is a front platform, for a seat up front like on your diagram, for more room between two people. Here's my link for photos of my mod. - https://s388.photobucket.com/albums/oo321/delmonte67/ (use the slide show top middle) Have fun! Its well worth it! Got any questions, myself and anyone on this site will definitley help- Its my first boat, and I did'nt know a thing about fixing it up , and all the guys from this site helped me alot. 8) D.


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## DryFlyRy (Nov 28, 2008)

Alright well today I was able to head over to my dads print shop where my boat is being kept and do a little work. I first used a steel wire brush bit on my cordless drill to remove any loose paint and scuff up the bonded paint as suggested, I then went over it again with a sanding bit but my battery ended up dying mid way so I ruffed it up a little more as much as I could by hand, but i think there was plenty of roughness for the primer to bite to. after that I wiped it all down with mineral spirits. Now I went to walmart because grandma was nice enough to give me a 5 dollar happy thanksgiving gift card so I figured hey, sweet, theres one free can of primer! ...however I couldnt find anything that said self-etching on it  Rustoleum had a few primers for metal, one for lots of rust etc, so I ended up getting the clean metal primer as it boasted its excellent adhesion for metals and could go on top of existing paint. Now I hope I didn't royally screw up by not being absolutely sure it was self etching, but i figured (a) i only had a few big bare spots of metal and (b) i was going to rough everything up quite a bit manually and (c) if it says it bonds to metal, and aluminum is metal, this stuff should work right? so 5 cans gave me a good 3+ coats and it _looks_ pretty good, but we'll have to see when it dries I suppose... also, i can now fully understand and appreciate why every time I see a car get a paint job on tv they put it in a room that looks cleaner than a hospital... dirt just SOMEHOW finds a way to leap onto your project right after you lay a fresh coat of paint down! lol, well i dont mind a few perfect imperfection, she'll still look 100 times better than she did when i brought her home... Now just a quick quest before I buy my top coat... what makes marine paint marine? Sometimes I've noticed that simply putting the word marine on something is just an excuse to raise the price of something you can get fairly cheaper. So i guess my question is enamel enamel or is there something _more_ that goes into the stuff labeled marine that makes it more suitable for a small job like this... also I read on one post that a quart was enough to do they're boat, somehow that doesnt sound like enough to me, but I dont want to get a gallon for $70 and be hung with something I'm never again going to use... and now the pictures...

after brushed/sanded/wiped down









And after 3+coats of primer









And also I found this nice little hole in the umm... i dont know the right word, long support thingy that runs from the bow to the stern that likes to take a beating when loading or unloading or beaching on the boat ramp :wink: should i try a repair? or no biggie as its not in a spot that causes a leak...


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## Jim (Nov 28, 2008)

:WELCOME: Thanks for joining! 

Another MASS guy :beer:

Thanks for joining! 

The primer looks great! 

Great computer skills too! Love the way you plan to do the boat! =D>


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## Jim (Nov 28, 2008)

And the Tattoo is hardcore! :beer:


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## jkbirocz (Nov 28, 2008)

Welcome to the site, looking good already. Man thats a lot of paint in the air in that one pic, I hope you wore a mask :lol:


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## ben2go (Nov 29, 2008)

The part that runs the length of the boat is the keel.If it has a hole, I would fix it.It will fill with water and possibly corrode.If nothing else it hold water and add water weight to the boat. :mrgreen:


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## DryFlyRy (Nov 29, 2008)

what would be the best way to fix it? could i just throw a fiberglass patch on it?


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## bassboy1 (Nov 29, 2008)

DryFlyRy said:


> what would be the best way to fix it? could i just throw a fiberglass patch on it?


NOOOOO. I will let others with better experience elaborate on what works best, but I will say from experience fiberglass patches are NOT it.


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## DryFlyRy (Nov 29, 2008)

bassboy1 said:


> DryFlyRy said:
> 
> 
> > what would be the best way to fix it? could i just throw a fiberglass patch on it?
> ...


lol, bondo maybe? i dont know? a wad of big league chew? i definatly dont have any kind of welding/metal skills... #-o


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## ben2go (Nov 29, 2008)

It's hard to tell how big the hole is from the pic.JB Weld has been used and seems to work well.Sand the area well,apply, sand to shape,prime and paint.


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## bassboy1 (Nov 29, 2008)

I thought I posted on this earlier. My ISP has been giving me grief all week. 

Bondo and fiberglass are out. I have pulled both from some past boat projects, and neither did much to fix the leak, and then made the small leak into a big ugly mess. Fiberglass and aluminum don't expand and contract at the same rate, so problems will be had there. Bondo doesn't like the marine environment, and thereby doesn't work. I believe some people have used JB weld, or durafix or something.


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## wo show (Nov 29, 2008)

It looks great so far, keep the pictures coming.


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## ben2go (Nov 29, 2008)

I think Marine Tex makes an epoxy putty that would werk also.


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## FishingBuds (Nov 29, 2008)

Jb works.

before repair drill a 1/16 to 1/8 hole at both ends of the crack so it won't split any further.

Your primer is fine, 3 coats is the way :wink: 

Future referance-I found the ecthing primer in the auto-motive section by the touch up paint section.

Marine paint for the sea-YES SIR!

Fresh water-you can go cheap, but it won't last long so thats alot of work for few years on a paint job.

I'd want one that gives me at least 4 to 5 years before it starts to ware down.

Depending on what you want I know you can get a gallon of Olive marine paint at your local army surplus store for around 25 bucks, this stuff is good and last.

custom colors try https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/search.do?refineType=1&refineName=Brand&refineValue=Interlux&refine=1&page=GRID&history=z0sgg6li%7Ctop_category%7Cpage%7EGRID%5EcategoryName%7EPaints%5EcategoryId%7E532&engine=adwords!6456&keyword=interlux+paint They have a live chat service and I have used it. These guys are great on filling questions and setting you up for a good custom color paint job that won't bite the wallet :wink: 

Keep us posted


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## DryFlyRy (Nov 30, 2008)

https://www.iboats.com/Mega_Gloss_1...8073090--session_id.709765802--view_id.363468 

this is what I was going to end up getting, but i figured if a polyurethane enamel was a polyurethane enamel and i could find it at home depot or somewhere local i could get away with not paying the 20 dollars for shipping... there's a Tractor Supply Company right down the street i wonder if they would have something similar... i'll look for the jb weld while im there too...


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## DryFlyRy (Dec 1, 2008)

Went to TSC yesterday and was happy to find some (what seemed to be) promising paint alternatives... I know I read somewhere on here that people had used tractor paint with good results, and I found this at TSC: https://www.valsparglobal.com/val/resident/valspar_imp.jsp. I also picked up a can of hardener for the extra duribilty and glossiness. :lol: I ended up going with the "Ford Blue" as opposed to the "John Deer Green" because it had more gloss to it. I think it will look pretty sexy. Also picked up a spray can of gloss black for the accents. They didnt have that JB Weld for the crack in the, ahem,_ keel_... But i did find something similar that said it bonded to aluminum. Hopefully I can get over to the shop tonight if the girlfriend lets me and get that crack sealed and a coat of paint on...

After re-reading this thread i realised i may have rudely not responded to some questions or comments, so let me take the time to do so now...

FishingBuds - Yes my little choc friend does come with me on my fishing adventures. She is a good girl and behaves very well on the boat. Her name is Mable. Im sure you'll see more of her.

CheeseBall - I fish everything! Started out spinnerfishing the local river, then bass fishing some ponds from the shore, then fell in love with fly-fishing, then found myself with a big surf rod out at the cape, then got the canoe to get out further in the ponds, then traded the canoe for the kayak (all sorts of decked out and moded for fishing) to get into harder to reach spots, THEN got this boat to fish and troll some of the bigger lakes of the area... so yea, i have a bit of an addiction on my hands :wink: 

BassBoy1 - I like your idea about the seat, but unfortunatly I already told santa to get me the fixed pedistal base and santas UPS team already delivered it :mrgreen: but im not too picky and am already used to fishing from that spot anyways...

Jim - Thanks for the comment on the Tattoo! its when i realised i officially had an addiction on my hands! I actually have a nice big pond lily now on the bicep area that i had done after that pic was taken.


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## spanky543 (Dec 1, 2008)

Hi,

That’s a really nice boat with a lot of potential…Looks a lot like mine just newer! Your ideas with the decking look really cool and well thought out. As for your crack in the aluminum:

To fix your crack you need to weld it...but wait I’m not talking about mig or arch welding. It’s more like braising or soldering. I have a boat similar to yours. It’s a 1948 Arkansas Traveler. It had 3 cracks and holes at the transom corner. I used a product called Alumiweld. These are rods that you use like solder. Here is the website:

https://www.alumiweld.com/

There also is a different product called Durafix here is there website:

https://www.durafix.com/

I used Alumiweld because I was able to buy it at the local hardware store Harbor Freight Tools. You have to use the MAPP gas or hotter when using a torch to heat the aluminum. I tried for almost 2 weekends using just propane and it never worked. When I tried MAPP gas (the yellow bottle) it worked like a charm. JB Weld works well but it can crack sometimes. Let me know if you have any questions.


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## DryFlyRy (Dec 1, 2008)

I ended up using the jb weld type putty, we'll see how it holds up, it might be fine after getting painted over... here are the pics of the paint i did today, i have one more coat of the blue and then the black where all the white is...










and i gave the OB a make over too...
Before:












Primed:












After:













I'll be putting some fresh new evinrude vinyl decals on there too...


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## Jim (Dec 1, 2008)

Looking good! :beer:


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## SnowmanJon (Dec 2, 2008)

Looks like we have the smae boat!


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## DryFlyRy (Dec 2, 2008)

wow! nice! only difference is my transom is straight in the back where yours dips down a bit, must be like a year apart... we should keep in touch with our trials and tribulations!


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## ben2go (Dec 2, 2008)

She's lookin good.


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## fishinchef (Dec 3, 2008)

My dads got the same boat great stability. Looking good I like the paint job on the motor


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## DryFlyRy (Dec 3, 2008)

quick q' before work... i noticed that there were a lot of little bumps in the paint on the boat :? ... looks like dust particles or something... would it be worth sanding these out before i put on a second coat or would i make matters worse and the sanding would show through?


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## russ010 (Dec 3, 2008)

I would do a light wetsand over the boat... get a real fine grit sandpaper and just keep it wet... you won't lose paint, and it will scuff it up just enough (you won't notice it) and the paint will adhere better... just don't over do it. When I say light sanding, I mean no pressure and keep it in a circular motion - wax on only... no wax off!


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## DryFlyRy (Dec 3, 2008)

heading over there now, thank you... mr. miagi!


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## Jim (Dec 3, 2008)

DryFlyRy said:


> heading over there now, thank you... mr. miagi!



:LOL2: :beer:


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## DryFlyRy (Dec 8, 2008)

made some progress... finished up with the second coat of paint, and did the black accents... certainly not perfect, but im going to go back and touch it up towards the end up the project. I got her flipped back over and onto the trailer so its easier to work on. Saturday was my livewell project day. I used an old coleman cooler, 2 pumps from wally world at 25 bucks each (1 mounted through the transom for the fill, and the other though the cooler for occasionally recirculating the water once its in there) , some hose, pvc, and a 2 dollar toilet flusher that will pop out the plug for the drain so you dont have to stick your hand in cold fish poop water  . Sunday I laid out some cardboard templates to get an idea how everything was going to lay out. I'll prob make some new ones when it comes down to the actual cutting, these are just rough ups. I took apart the seats after realizing the aluminum housing for the safety foam would make great storage bins for the hatches. Im going to sand off the rust and prime them with some anti rust primer and eventually carpet them. (I'll be sure to make a way for water to escape after reading another post :wink: ) Then this morning I went and got some lumber (just had to go the wood rout once i saw the price of aluminum!) from home depot and start laying out the frame work for the front deck. I got everything cut and positioned for the front deck (sorry no pics, the camera was acting really funny today :evil: ) now I just need to pick up some thomson WS and seal em up before tying it all together.Heres the pics from sunday of the cardboard templates...






Hatch to the livewell pump.





Rear storage hatch and hatch to the bilge and rear anchor.





Livewell





Front storage hatch and battery/front anchor hatch





View from up front...


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## Big Buck (Dec 8, 2008)

Looks great!!! I do have a question though on the Thompson Water Seal, I was curios as to how long that will last, would you be better off using polurathane instead? I was under the impression that Water seal has to be re-applied after a year or so, just a question and if so hope I helped, if not just ignore me, lol. Good luck and keep those pictures coming.


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## ben2go (Dec 8, 2008)

Good werk DryFlyRy.I like the layout.Check your work first,before you finialize everything to make sure the boat is balance front to back and left to right.





Big Buck said:


> Looks great!!! I do have a question though on the Thompson Water Seal, I was curios as to how long that will last, would you be better off using polurathane instead? I was under the impression that Water seal has to be re-applied after a year or so, just a question and if so hope I helped, if not just ignore me, lol. Good luck and keep those pictures coming.



As long as it isn't exposed to the weather like a porch or deck it should be fine.Just remember to leave the drain plug out when the boat is out of the water.Carpet with rubber backing plus the adhesive will help keep the moister off the wood.I prefer paint or epoxy coating.I redecked pontoons 15 years ago,some are permanently dock and others just sit out on their trailer or blocks,and the wood still looks good.The only thing I've noticed is a little darkening of the wood,very little checking,and no soft spots.


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## Big Buck (Dec 8, 2008)

ben2go said:


> Good werk DryFlyRy.I like the layout.Check your work first,before you finialize everything to make sure the boat is balance front to back and left to right.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Good to know I was not for sure what to do on mine. I think that Thompsons' is quite a bit cheaper too!!! Thanks.


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## ben2go (Dec 9, 2008)

You're welcome.


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## DryFlyRy (Dec 10, 2008)

ben2go said:


> I prefer paint or epoxy coating.



What is a good paint to use? a poly? laytex? I think I would rather have something that was a spray on cus it will prob go on quicker. At least for the frame work, only problem is I would like something that goes on clear as each piece is labeled for when I put it all back together. My ply I could really brush on some good heavy coats of something as i would think thats whats most prone to rot... what did everyone else use?


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## russ010 (Dec 10, 2008)

I used Brightside Interlux which is a Polyurethane... I sprayed it on in 3 thin coats and it worked awesome, but I used zinc chromate as the base primer after etching the boat up a little bit. I've scratched it up pretty good on the bottom because of all the rocks where I fish, but it's holding up well everywhere else. 

On the inside I use spray cans of paint in a metallic black. I was going to spray it too, but I got a head of myself and started installing decking with carpet before I realized what I was doing. It looks good and I only put one coat on... it hasn't started scratching or peeling yet, it's pretty durable.

You can see the process I used *HERE*


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## ben2go (Dec 10, 2008)

Once again I follow russo1o.Poly all the way. :LOL2:


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## CTAngler481 (Dec 12, 2008)

Nice rig!! Cool tattoo too!

I am in Granby, CT not far from westfield!


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## DryFlyRy (Dec 12, 2008)

Nice!! I'm sure I'll be bumping into you at congamond or otis ! :beer: :fishing:


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## DryFlyRy (Dec 15, 2008)

got the frame all done for the front deck and roughed up for the rear. The rear is on hold for the moment until I can convince santa to let me have my gas tank early so I can figure out how everything will sit back there... but here are the pics of the front....

all the pieces of the puzzle after being sealed sitting in my kitchen as the temp was sub freezing last night, and yes, I went to bed with a nice head ache because of it...






All put together...


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## ben2go (Dec 15, 2008)

Lookin good.Nice work. =D>


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## snowboardinmn (Dec 16, 2008)

looking very good


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## Big Buck (Dec 16, 2008)

Looks really good, what did you use for you storage containers?


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## Loggerhead Mike (Dec 16, 2008)

very awsome. ive been pondering on how to cut my seats out and deck the hole thing but still keep the rigity of the boat. im sorry, but i beleave im going to copy you :mrgreen:


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## DryFlyRy (Dec 17, 2008)

The storage containers are the bottom parts of the old bench seats that housed the safety foam. The idea came to me out of nowhere, like the stereo-typical image of the light-bulb going off in my head. I was just happy that i didnt have to build more stuff out of wood. The back storage bin isn't gonna happen now though as the gas tank ended up being bigger than expected. Instead, the tank will be under the back deck off to the left of the driver in front of the livewell and bilge. Then, on top of the deck above the gas tank will be a section angled up to the gunwale where all my switches, gps, and fish finder will be. Behind the driver will be a hatch for the rear anchor and should be enough room for the 2 life jackets and throwable. Then I was thinking maybe putting some kind of drawer style storage under the drivers seat... funny how much a plan changes as the project progresses. I'll get a kick out of the comparison of my original concept drawing next to the final image when its all said and done.



> but i beleave im going to copy you


haha, thats always nice to hear! :mrgreen: . So far the frame seems to be sound. I've gotten up and walked around on it and it feels solid. There are a few spots where some posts dont quite hit the floor (like 1/16th inch) but when you stand on it theres enough flex so it will meet the floor and help distribute some weight. The only thing Im slightly concerned about is the possibility of it vibrating and rattling like an SOB when the OB is running. We'll see [-o< ...

Next step I think is to get the pvc tubing for the rod storage set up under the front deck along with any plumbing/ wiring... I decided to dump the toilet flusher idea b/c it sat too low under the deck, instead, i will run some tubing into the hole thats now there and y connect it down with the drain tubing so it acts as a spill hole incase I forget to shut off the pump  

I'll try and keep the pics coming!!!


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## CTAngler481 (Dec 21, 2008)

> Nice!! I'm sure I'll be bumping into you at congamond or otis !



Heck yeah, 2 favorite places to fish!

Nice work, it's coming along nicely!


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## SnowmanJon (Dec 23, 2008)

Was looking over your pics and thread....I noticed one thing that'll you'll def want to fix if you haven't already thought of it. On your "Livewell/Cooler" the black hose...make sure you can empty it out enough that you don't have freezing problems in the winter. Hate to see you have to tear up your decking to fix a cracked hose.

JON


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## DryFlyRy (Jan 9, 2009)

Well it has been a while since I've updated the thread [-X ... my apologies. My digital camera continues to act funny and I haven't been able to get any pictures of my progress :evil: . I havent done all that much anyways. I have the floor and side panels cut and in place along with the rear deck. I am at sort of a stand still right now as Im not sure where I want to go from here. I need to get the electrical done before anything else, however Im not sure how I want to approach a console with my switches and mounts for the GPS and Fish Finder. I'm leaning toward mounting everything to the side pannel on the right, we'll see what happens. I may have to go to the shop and just sit there and stare at it for an hour until it comes to me.:roll:. In the mean time, I drew up a wiring diagram for everything. Im no electrician so maybe someone could give me a heads up of any mistakes or problems I'll run into if I go this rout (such as can I daisy chain the lights like that? or do i have to wire each one individually?). let me know what you think.






Also, Im considering using a second battery (small lawn mower type) solely for the electronics and leaving the big one just for the TM. Wise move? or would it not really be necessary? The only thing i see running the whole time is the fish finder, well I guess the lights too if Im having a hard time removing myself from the lake on a nice summer evening... would one of those lawn mower batteries be enough to run some electronics? or would I have to get a whole other full size battery? (they're just so damn heavy!)


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## ben2go (Jan 10, 2009)

A smaller battery would be helpful to run electronics and lights.I'm not sure I'd go with a lawn tractor battery,unless it's a larger one with a high amp hour rating.


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## RStewart (Jan 10, 2009)

very, very, nice job. cant wait to see it finished


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## Zum (Jan 10, 2009)

I was thinking of doing the same thing with a small lawnmower battery.
There small and I wouldn't have to worry about any interferance on the screen doing it that way.I'm pretty sure there would be way more then enough power to run a fishfinder,they only draw about a quater amp,tops.
A reason you might want to think of another "big" battery,is because if your other battery gets weak you can use the other battery to run your trolling motor or even start your outboard in a pinch.
Nice job on the electrical diagram,I'm no electrician either.Thats why I have this question,is there a way for just your stern(all around)light,to go on by itself?I probably just don't understand the diagram. 

How come I can't get the words on paper that are in my head.


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## DryFlyRy (Jan 10, 2009)

No the stern light is in circuit with bow/nav lights controlled with one switch. the switches have 3 prongs on them (think except two): positive negative and load. I think because they have little led lights in them. Im gonna use the lights in the other circuit as my general purpose, lookin around for stuff / tying knots lights.


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## Zum (Jan 10, 2009)

Although I've never fished at night,around here at night when anchored there has to be an all around(stern)light on.I'm not sure of the regulations where you are at.So they wire the bow/stern lights like this to do it:


Theres other switches out there as well,maybe where your at it is not needed?
Think of the 2 sidelights as your bow and the all around is the stern.


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## DryFlyRy (Jan 10, 2009)

im pretty sure, in ma at least, youre always supposed to have both running- that way it makes it easier for other boaters to know which direction your boat is facing, thats why I put them both on the same circuit/switch. 

I got some pictures today using the girlfriend's camera. I'll post em tomorrow, its past my bed time tonight. :wink:


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## bassboy1 (Jan 10, 2009)

White one is called anchor light. It is to be on whenever the boat is in the water at night. The bow one is the nav light. It is to be on supposedly only when underway, as nobody needs to know what way you face when anchored. However, it really matters not whether the bow one is on or off while at rest.


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## Henry Hefner (Jan 11, 2009)

DryFlyRy said:


> Im no electrician so maybe someone could give me a heads up of any mistakes or problems I'll run into if I go this rout (such as can I daisy chain the lights like that? or do i have to wire each one individually?). let me know what you think.



My drawing isn't as pretty as yours, but I think my circuits are sound. Lights should be wired parallel, not in series. Also, I didn't see any fuses in that diagram, if your panel doesn't have any I would add them. For example, if your wiring shorts out on a circuit, even if it doesn't cause any other damage it will melt wiring all the way back to your battery and drain the battery in a hurry if not worse. Here's my corrections:


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## DryFlyRy (Jan 14, 2009)

Here's a few quick pics before work that I got off the girlfriends camera a few days ago...


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## bAcKpAiN (Jan 14, 2009)

VERY nice! How much weight would yo estimate that you are adding there? I am curious. Looking at something like that, there is no doubt in my mind that it would not be a problem removing a bench seat if you are going to add structure like that.


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## DryFlyRy (Jan 14, 2009)

haha, weight is something im trying hard not to think about. :-$ from all the forums i read on here, it seems like im not going to have to worry about her sinking the first time out. I may sacrifice an mph or two but im not out there to race... 



> Looking at something like that, there is no doubt in my mind that it would not be a problem removing a bench seat if you are going to add structure like that.


yea, it seems like it would be extremely ridged, the way i saw the whole frame from the first time i saw the boat was through the aluminum bench brackets. the posts just sit on the floor or over the ribs via a notch i cut with a circle saw and just help to take some of the load off. I would assume the brackets are whats taking most of the weight.

Quick electrical question. It was mentioned before about fuses... for what I have set up, what are the appropriate fuses for each of my components? My fish finder's instructional oragami crossword puzzle, err, booklet, :roll: said a 1 amp for that, any idea for the others? where can I get these for inline? not sure if i remember them last time i was at home depot...


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## DryFlyRy (Jan 15, 2009)




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## rcgreat (Jan 15, 2009)

That is coming out very nice. Are those your electrical switches on the blue piece?


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## Waterwings (Jan 15, 2009)

Nice work! 8)


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## Hanr3 (Jan 22, 2009)

To figure the fuse size take the watts and divide by 12 volts= amps, fuse size. 

If your running a 7.5 watt navigation light (red/green light on the bow), divide that by 12 = .625 amps, less than one amp fuse. Since your wiring your anchor light ( the white all around light in the stern) into the same circuit as the nav light add the two wattages together and divide by 12 volts (12volt battery, 24 volts if using 2 batteries in series). 

Typically your fishfinder is 1 amp, most pumps are 3amps (pumps recommend not using more than 5 amp fuses), and you will have to add up the lights. This is where LED lights come in handy. They draw a fraction of the power of regular light bulbs. 

One last thing to consider is the wire, what are your plans on wire size?

PS.
Nice work. I'll be doing something similar to a 14' soon. I will also be using the same Coleman Cooler as my livewell. I've had my cooler for 20 years, time to get a newer model for camping. :mrgreen:


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## DryFlyRy (Jan 24, 2009)

Thanks for the info on the fuses, that'll be a big help... I wired everything but the lights, added my carpet to the back deck, floor and side panels and all the hatch doors... Next steps are to finish the electrical, put in those fuses, mount the transducer to the transom, secure the drain/hose in the livewell, make a template for the front deck, transfer the template to wood, carpet the front deck, install pedestal and seat, and then just adding all the finishing touches: rod holders, decals, touch up the paint... So still a ways to go, but I gotta say I'm lovin how things are coming out so far! :lol:


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## DryFlyRy (Jan 24, 2009)

Forogot to add the most important part!!!! ostpics: 
:mrgreen: 











The way the frame was built under the deck, I ended up drilling my holes to mount the seat a little further back then I would have liked, So if I go to swivel to my right I get stopped by the bilge discharge hose. Not too big of a deal, cant really think of y I would want to turn too much in that direction anyway, and i suppose if i did I could always just pull the hose off and stuff it under the deck and just hope I dont have any split second bilge emergencies :roll: 





Misc storage under the back seat. could throw a life jacket or two in there... or a bottle of black berry brandy. :wink: 





Rod & oar storage hatches on each side of the livewell underneath the front deck.


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## LarryA (Jan 24, 2009)

Looking over this thread, the work looks nice, Thee is one thing that I may be overlooking but it appears that no provisions were made to vent the fuel tank area. Shouldn't there be an air in and out to prevent fumes from building up in the enclosure?


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## DryFlyRy (Jan 24, 2009)

i never even gave that any thought  the last thing i would need is a spark from the livewell pump to ignite a wooden box full of gas fumes... anyone else have issues with this?


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## Macgyver (Jan 24, 2009)

livewell pumps are brushless and are normally ignition protected. this means they will not be making sparks. but . you do need to vent the fumes.


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## DryFlyRy (Jan 24, 2009)

would a simple hole capped with like a mesh grate suffice? or would I actually need to go as far as putting a 12v fan in there to blown the fumes out?


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## DryFlyRy (Jan 27, 2009)

More Progress - More pictures:

Venting solution: Front of the enclosure - air "in"





On top - air "out"





Night lights





Rear hatch(es) lit up





Live well lit up





Front hatch lit up





Nav nights





All together now!


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## russ010 (Jan 27, 2009)

it may be just me, but the images aren't showing up


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## rcgreat (Jan 27, 2009)

Russ, Im getting the images. Dry, That looks fantastic, love the lights and a great idea with the vent.


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## Henry Hefner (Jan 27, 2009)

Looking good! One tip to maybe stay legal. In Texas, a boat like yours is REQUIRED to have a fire extinguisher IF the gas tank is in an enclosed compartment. You may check your state regs if you don't already have an extinguisher on board.


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## bassboy1 (Jan 27, 2009)

Henry Hefner said:


> Looking good! One tip to maybe stay legal. In Texas, a boat like yours is REQUIRED to have a fire extinguisher IF the gas tank is in an enclosed compartment. You may check your state regs if you don't already have an extinguisher on board.


Nope, not a Texas requirement. US Federal requirement. 

I thought about a vent like yours when building my rig. Here is why I didn't go with something like that. Fuel fumes are much heavier than air, so they will find their way to the bottom of the hatch, rather quickly, and not really vent out. Instead, what I did is get a piece of cheap .25 inch tubing, and a nylon fitting with threads on one end, and a barb on the other. Unscrew the vent cap in the tank, and thread this in. Then, put your hose on, with a quick release fitting of your choice somewhere past the tank, for easy removal, for filling. Have it vent somewhere away from your enclosure, and just point the end down, so rain can't collect in it.


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## Hanr3 (Jan 29, 2009)

I could use all the info you have on those lights. 

Nice job so far.


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## DryFlyRy (Feb 1, 2009)

Han: the red and yellow lights are just trailer lights i picked up at walmart for a few bucks, the blue ones are led's i got at walmart in the automotive accessory section for 10 bucks a pop, they arent led threw the whole strip, i think its just two at each end with a bunch of reflectiveness in between, the nav and stern lights i also got at walmart i think 12 bucks a pop, but they didnt have the "female" connection for the stern so i hack sawed the end off and just wired it straight through. You can check out my wiring scheme on a previous page... and i will add it was a pain in the balls to do all the wiring, esp in sub freezing temps in the garage, but well worth it once i flipped each switch and they all worked!


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## FishingBuds (Feb 1, 2009)

the simple things stand out, Nice job on the vent idea


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## RStewart (Feb 1, 2009)

Sweet boat. It is amazing how much these boats with seats removed, strengthen up when the decks are added.


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## Hanr3 (Feb 5, 2009)

Thanks for the info. =D>


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## DryFlyRy (Feb 7, 2009)

Made a lot of progress over the last two days, got the front deck on and carpeted, added some stainless steel cup-holders i salvaged from work, and some rod holders made from 2 inch black 48 degree elbow pvc fittings and mounted the pedestal seat... still to go: four more rod holders (excessive? maybe, but i like being able to stick my rod somewhere in any position im in... that didnt sound right, you know what i mean.) - a knife/tool holder i also salvaged from work - transducer mount - hatch doors for front deck - hose clamps in various spots - touch up paint blems - vinyl decals - go fishing.

and of course, the pics:
front deck cut- 






Holes for cup holders and rod holders-





Glued and ready for carpet - 





Stapled up -


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## Hanr3 (Feb 7, 2009)

Looks great. You did an awesome job on it so far. What's left to be done?


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## RStewart (Feb 7, 2009)

Nice job. Does side of your boat flex when using the trolling motor being mounted where it is? That is close to the same place mine was, and the side of the boat flexes if pressure is put on the tm. I have not used it in water yet, just lowered it and wiggled it.


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## ben2go (Feb 8, 2009)

I agree with Peter Griffin(from Family Guy).Freakin sweet!

Let us know how stable she is in the water.


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## WTL (Feb 8, 2009)

Wow! You are making my boat look bad. I have the same model, I think exactly. Great idea on using the metal bins that went under the bench seats as liners. Make me regret throwing them out! #-o 

I just wonder about the weight. Thats what it will come down to. I am still trying to lighten mine up, I have full decks but a console and I used pretty heavy ply. Its a little low in the back.


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## DryFlyRy (Feb 8, 2009)

> Nice job. Does side of your boat flex when using the trolling motor being mounted where it is? That is close to the same place mine was, and the side of the boat flexes if pressure is put on the tm. I have not used it in water yet, just lowered it and wiggled it.



Not that I've noticed, obviously i *did* climb into it and pretended i was on the water on a nice summer afternoon :wink: but everything seemed solid when i tried it out.



> I agree with Peter Griffin(from Family Guy).Freakin sweet!
> 
> Let us know how stable she is in the water.


 It'll be some time yet as everything is still frozen here... I know she's gonna be a little tippy. I'll prob have to try and keep my center of gravity low when making my way up to the front seat, but once centered over the middle of the boat, i think it'll be fine as long as i dont have too many beers and start leaning to one side... I wasnt really looking to build a casting deck I could do laps around, just something to plop a seat on, and give the boat as a whole a nice polished clean look by hiding everything underneath. I'll prob fish the majority of the time sitting in that nice comfy seat, standing on occasion. When i land a fish, i'll just get on my knees to get her out. Before I started I jumped up on the bench seats to see what it would be like, and while it did rock when i threw my weight around, it wasnt enough to prevent me from starting in on my project.



> I just wonder about the weight. Thats what it will come down to. I am still trying to lighten mine up, I have full decks but a console and I used pretty heavy ply. Its a little low in the back.



Im not *TOO* worried about the weight, I did go for some 1 x 3's instead of 2x 3's in areas to save SOME weight, and also used 5/8 ply instead of 3/4, also saved some weight using the tin hatch compartments instead of having to build them out of wood... Also, I did make sure I was distributing the weight as evenly as I could, so it wouldnt be front or back heavy. BUT there is only one way im gonna find out! :?


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## Waterwings (Feb 8, 2009)

Looks great! Be sure and take some pics when you launch her 8)


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## zachvu (Jun 1, 2015)

I know this is an older thread, but potentially very helpful to me! Does anyone have a way to make the photos work??


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## Abraham (Jun 1, 2015)

Older? The dust from the original posters bones was lost decades ago. The pictures as well :mrgreen:


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## zachvu (Jun 2, 2015)

Abraham said:


> Older? The dust from the original posters bones was lost decades ago. The pictures as well :mrgreen:



Haha I figured as much! I was hoping the OP would come back from the dead to update!!


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