# 1976 Lund S-14 Mod



## jdsgrog (Jan 14, 2011)

This is actually a second modification since I bought my boat a few years back. When I first bought the boat, it was just a boat with three bench seats (four if you include the most forward bow seat). I added a casting deck, carpeted the seats, put my batteries in the center bench and added a few accessories here and there. After using the boat for a few years and seeing this site, I wanted to make my boat more "open" with a flat floor (sort of getting tired of getting my feet wet), rod storage, and other changes in the layout. So this winter, I decided to take the plunge and start "cutting away"...literally. So here are some pics of my work so far.


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## earl60446 (Jan 17, 2011)

Almost exactly the same boat I have, mine may be a couple years older, only difference I see is you have a splashwell and mine does not. So I am anxiously awaiting more photos of how it turns out. Good luck with the improvements. I think I will definitely make storage out of my center bench for sure. Love to have a livewell too but that probably wont happen.
Tim


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## basstender10.6 (Jan 17, 2011)

nice boat you got there


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## jdsgrog (Jan 17, 2011)

Thanks, bass. It's a great boat and has served me well.

Earl,
I'll be working on the boat slowly, hoping to get all the work done by April. I live quite a distance from where the boat is stored, so I could only get out there every couple of weeks and get a few hours of work done at most. 

The splash well is really not very functional. If water gets over the transom, it will get into the boat because it's only a few inches wide. But the splashwell seems to be more structural. Not sure if your boat was supposed to have one or not.

I had the storage in the middle bench seat (actually that's where I kept my two batteries). I created a platform in there to make it flat so the battery trays could be secured. I did this to balance the trim on my boat. But after fishing with this layout for a couple of years, I just felt I wanted the boat to be more open without me having to climb over the middle bench to get to the front deck. 

As for my current project, I'm still trying to figure a couple of things out, but at the present time I will be building side storage a small rear casting deck and side rod locker(s). I've been going back and forth about a livewell, but I think I will opt out of having one. I just don't see a real need for it. Rather I will have a couple of spots for coolers, one dedicated to put fish on ice and one dedicated for drinks. But I will get a better idea of the layout once I get the floor in.

I've been trying to "engineer" this thing properly so I don't lose any support. I have a '67 33hp johnson that I converted to a tiller steer for this boat. It pushes the boat well, but with that much power in the back for this small of a boat, I wanted to make sure that the boat remains sturdy and well supported.


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## CarlF (Jan 20, 2011)

I've been thinking about getting a Lund S-14 or WC-14 and doing a similar project. Mainly, making it walk-thru at the center bench.
My idea was to notch the center bench, like the Lund SSV layout (which seem to be tough to find used, while used S- & WC's can be found pretty easily). I would then make the sides storage. Possibly put in a floor.
QUestion: 
Are you going to put the center bench back in? If not, are you concerned about the hull flexing in the center a/o not having adequate structural stability?


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## Ictalurus (Jan 20, 2011)

Love the boat and the open layout you are going for. I'd also be a bit concerned with the structural integrity. Also, make sure you add some flotation foam to that bad boy.


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## jdsgrog (Jan 20, 2011)

Carl,
Not sure how much power you plan to use, but the WC's are rated for less and have a little less freeboard. The s-14 is a great boat and very stable.

As for the bench seats, no, I'm not putting the middle bench back into the boat. But I will be supporting the structure of the boat with side rod boxes and storage that will span from the front bench seat to the transom of the boat. After I put the floor in, the side storage boxes will be secured to floor and to the side. This should maintain the lateral structural integrity of the boat and help prevent twist. When I get to that point, you'll see what I am talking about.

One thing, if you plan to notch the middle bench seats, I wouldn't cut all the way down to the floor. The bench seats also act as ribs in the s-14 unlike some boats where they just provide lateral support. If you see the SSV's, you'll see that they leave a few inches from the floor in the walk through benches. On my boat, the aluminum angle I used as crossbars reinforce the bench supports to provide for the lateral support.

Not sure if you saw this thread, but he has an s-16 which he made into a walk through (https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=15212&start=0).

Ictalurus,
For flotation, I will need to figure that out as well. The volume under the floor will not provide as much as I'd like.


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## CarlF (Jan 20, 2011)

SOunds like you have it covered.
I'll only be running an 18 or 25 hp, so within the WC hp rating.
I plan to do it just like the SSV, leaving a few inches at the bottom. I would also put in a single solid peice of plywood all the way across the bottom to form the floor in the notch and for bottom of the storage boxes.
WIll check out that thread, thanks!


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## benjineer (Jan 21, 2011)

I like your boat and the project. It does look very similar to mine. From what I can tell, the S and SSV have more strakes than the WC. My S-16 is rated for a 40hp just like the SSV. Mine has plenty of strength now as I didn't really remove any support. I am thinking about removing the rest of the middle bench though. I'll have to unhook the support bars and see what the sides do. I can't remember what that felt like. I've thought about the rear bench and leaving the back panel for support and putting a seat on a post in its place. Then I'd just deck behind the bench. Or maybe I just want to split it and floor all the way back. My feet still get wet if I put them behind the bench, since I don't have a floor back there. I look forward to seeing what you come up with.


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## jdsgrog (Jan 21, 2011)

Yeah, our boats are similar. You might have a slightly wider beam. I was considering just putting in a walk through, but for some reason walk through's just didn't appeal to me. Hopefully I could get out in a week or two to work on the boat. I need to put a couple of more braces, but from there I will plan to cut out the floor and seal it. 

The old S's and the current SSV's are similar. The SSV's just have more beam. I haven't seen an SSV, but my s-14 is built like a tank. Compared to the WC, the S and SSV has a higher freeboard and I believe a slightly wider transom, though I'm not sure about that.


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## iamthepd (Feb 10, 2011)

hi im trying to add a mount for my trolling motor on my 86 14 ft lund and really like how yours is set up...do you have any pictures or insight on how to do it...thanks for any help


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## jdsgrog (Feb 11, 2011)

iamthepd, originally, I built a couple of wood brackets that I screwed to the hull. I had to drill some holes for this. But what I found as I took it apart was the one of the brackets started to crack. I think when I reinstall it, I will use the scrap aluminum I have left over and make brackets out of them and rivet them to the hull. Sorry, I don't have pics, but later I could try to draw what did or am going to do.

I did inquire about a trolling motor plate/deck on another forum on a similar boat. He had his on top of the aluminum rub rail and screwed it in with self tapping screws. I didn't like the aesthetics of it and decided to try to make it flush to the top.


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## benjineer (Feb 11, 2011)

I used thin aluminum angle brackets made from the bench seat I removed. You can't make them very long or they won't follow the curve of the bow. I think mine were about 4" long. I put my trolling motor deck just below the rub rail because I didn't want things to slide off into the water if set up there and I didn't want the edges of the diamond plate exposed. It's actually wedged tightly between the rail and the brackets to keep it quiet - hammered in from the rear and then riveted down. The carpet looks nicer, but I didn't want any.


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## jdsgrog (Feb 11, 2011)

That's what I was planning to do with the extra aluminum from my seats. I'll just cut and bend it to make new brackets. 

bengineer, how long were your brackets?


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## iamthepd (Feb 11, 2011)

thanks for the replys...my original plan was to just cut a peice of 3/16 aluminum and cut it to fit the top of the hull and bend the top and bottom about an inch in for added rigidity and mount it directly on top of the gunwale using rivets but i couldnt get a clear answer as to if stainless or aluminum rivets would be better or if they would be strong enough for a 55 lb terrova...and then to get rid of the rough edges i was gonna put some black rubber molding around the outer edge or just throw some carpet on there...ill figure the cosmetics out when i get there haha...

thanks again


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## jdsgrog (Feb 11, 2011)

It sounds like a plan. What kind of boat do you have? I have an older 30lb minkota and my deck was fine with the motor pulling the rig plus two guys and gear (about 1000 lbs total). I used 3/4 inch plywood. But one thing to note, apart from the deck being attached to the hull, I also attached the trolling motor deck to the casting deck with two small vertical pieces. Though I didn't do it for structural reasons, it did add rigidity to the whole structure.


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## jdsgrog (Apr 6, 2011)

So I was finally able to resume my modifications. What was intended as a winter project is ending up as a spring project due to lack of time and weather during winter months. Here are some pics of some more work I've done. I've gotten the main framing in and will soon be working on the decking. I decided to change some of the design. Will not have rod lockers after talking with some people who had previous experience with them. Also, the rear deck will likely be just a rear bench. Just easier and no real need for a rear deck. But that is still up for consideration.


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## jdsgrog (Apr 20, 2011)

Got more work done the past week. I'm on the "home stretch. Hopefully I will get everything done by next week. Here are some pics:


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## nadornati (Apr 20, 2011)

awesome build


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## jdsgrog (Apr 27, 2011)

I got more work done this week. Some things took longer than expected so it looks like two more days work and I'll be done...I hope.

All the top decks are only dry fitted and not attached (except the casting deck). They'll be attached as the last step after I get all the wiring done. But thought I'd give a decent idea what I'm planning.


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## benjineer (Apr 28, 2011)

Nice job! Love the tackle locker! I was thinking of something similar also. Makes me want to get to work on mine again!


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## jdsgrog (Apr 28, 2011)

Thanks, benjineer. At this point, I'm just wanting to get this project done and then take a break for a while. Then we'll see what mid summer will be like...maybe I'll get the itch to do more with the boat.

As for the tackle locker, I've thought of a lot of different ideas and finally settled on the tackle locker. I'm not crazy about tackle boxes/bags. They take up a lot of valuable floor space. I was thinking about putting in market tackle lockers, but with market tackle lockers, they are expensive, limited in how much you can carry, and the one's I looked at wouldn't have fit. I'm also planning to fabricate a "tool band" to hold necessary tools at arm's reach. Again, not crazy about market tool holders. I'll see how that goes. There's a few other little details I'm thinking of that you just don't find in most production boats that will help make this boat much more functional both when used on water and when trailering equipment.


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## jdsgrog (May 9, 2011)

Well, I finally finished the modification - at least for now. There are probably a few minor details I'll probably take care of as well as a new paint job. But for now I'm done for a few months...maybe until fall.

Here are some pics and comments of the finished product.


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## jdsgrog (May 9, 2011)

Well, I finally finished the modification - at least for now. There are probably a few minor details I'll probably take care of as well as a new paint job. But for now I'm done for a few months...maybe until fall.

Here are some pics and comments of the finished product.


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## benjineer (May 10, 2011)

Wow! Nice job! Is the port side box accessible? I'm working on mine again. Hopefully will post some new pics soon.


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## Ictalurus (May 10, 2011)

Very nice, well done sir! =D>


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## jdsgrog (May 10, 2011)

Thanks, all. It feels good that I got things done before my fishing trip next week. Just need to do a couple things with the motor and on the water she goes.

Benjineer, no, the port side is not accessible. I closed that off because that is where all my wiring is located and I didn't want all the shifting of things potentially pulling off connections. I was thinking about making it accessible from the middle seat, but personally, I just didn't feel the need for it. Though there may be a chance that I may make a small "glove compartment" that comes out from the side for lake maps and stuff.


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## Froggy (May 10, 2011)

Great job man! you trust these rod holder extentions...


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## jdsgrog (May 10, 2011)

yes, the rod holder extensions are solid. Wasn't exactly sure what to expect, but they got good reviews on cabelas (4.8 out of 5.0 from 35 reviewers). When I received them, they were thicker and stronger than I expected. I don't know if you have used the cabelas rod holders, but they are very good quality. The extensions are great quality as well.


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## jdsgrog (May 21, 2011)

This is just a report after taking the boat on water to my annual trip up north. Sorry, no pics-forgot to bring a camera.

The boat performed well, though I lost about 1.5mph on the top end. It's likely due to the extra weight of the aluminum and wood, but no big deal as I usually only go wide open when I am getting on plane. But it really sat well in the water, and even in choppier waves, it seems to ride better than before the modification. Had a lot more confidence during a 15-17mph wind.

The "fishability" of the boat due to the layout change was significant. Everything was easily accessible without fumbling for tools, tackle, etc. The "side boxes" I made were a blessing in disguise as they not only functioned well for storage, but also as a step to get into the boat, temporary seating, and also as a table to lay my boxes down while rigging my rods. Access to the front deck was also great. The Kwikdrop pedestal was really convenient as well. I'm also glad I put the side braces back in (btw if you didn't notice, I actually shortened and straightened them). They ended up holding my net without it getting in the way while fishing and also good to have the dock lines tied to them. As for the tackle locker and tool holder, those were the best ideas yet. Really cleared up the space that a tackle bag/box would use, and made finding tackle so much easier as "everything had its place." 

So what did I catch? I caught a handful of crappies, kept four ranging from 10-12 inches for a meal. Also caught a handful of gills and a couple of dink bass while fishing for crappie. One of the bass was the smallest I ever caught--couldn't be more than 6 inches. Wasn't in the mood for "hunting" for pike nor going out in the middle of the night for walleye, so I was happy with what I got.

I've got to make a few minor tweaks to the boat and I'm thinking about fabricating splash guards for the transom so I could back troll without getting gallons of water into the boat. Also, I'm planning on repainting the boat. So, I'll keep everyone posted in the upcoming months.


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## plt3145 (Jan 12, 2012)

*WOW! THAT WAS TRULY INSPIRING AND A BIG CONFIDENCE BOOSTER*

i only have a 12 ftr, but I am getting some great ideas!


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## fool4fish1226 (Jan 13, 2012)

Great build =D> well thought out


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## LonLB (Jan 14, 2012)

Just noticed this was last updated by the O.P. in may of last year.

Hopefully he will drop in again. Curious how the splashguards on the transom went.


This was a nice build. I like the tackle storage.


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## jdsgrog (Mar 21, 2012)

Hey, all.

Just thought I'd chime in since people have taken a look at my project. Unfortunately, I never had the time to get around to making those splash guards.

But someone pm'd me asking me how I did the framing for the casting deck. Since I didn't have any pictures, I sent him a couple of diagrams I made. My deck is sort of a "floating deck" in which the main supports are the two original front bench seats. The front of the deck is kept in place by the trolling motor deck and the rear of the deck is secured to the original bench #2 from the bow.

Anyway, if any of you are interested, below are the diagrams in pdf format.


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## tripwirenh (May 1, 2012)

Speechless...I believe I may try and duplicate this once I purchase my buddies S-14 for $1000. Old trailer and 80's 20hp Johnson. Only mod is a carpeted front deck. Seems to be a good deal.

Couple quick questions.

What size aluminum angle was used for framing? (1-1/2 x 1/8)? Also, where did you get the aluminum? Looking to save $$
What fasteners were used (aluminum rivets)?
I looked at your diagram of the front deck...how was the hatch lip created? Meaning, if you step in the middle of the hatch, what is keeping you from falling into your deck? Based on the diagram, it seems like a 1x2 glued? 

I'd appreciate the help. This looks like an economical way to have a great boat. My buddy will be jealous when I finish. Currently I have a 14' sears with mods similar to your first mod. It is just too small compared to the Lund. The Lund will be deeper and have a wider beam.


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## Gators5220 (May 1, 2012)

Nice build brother =D> , what size is that johnson pushin it? Looks like a 25 or larger? Well thought out build super clean nice job!


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## jdsgrog (May 1, 2012)

tripwirenh,

These old lunds are great and they handle really well in the water. I don't think you will be disappointed. To answer your questions:

1. I used 1 1/2 by 1/8 aluminum angle. I initially used the 6061 for the sole because it is better for structural support, but to butt the joints together well, i had to grind/file the ends to match the curvature. For the framing on the seats/boxes, I used 6063. Much easier to work with since all angles are 90 degrees. I bought my stuff from https://www.speedymetals.com and https://www.onlinemetals.com. Not sure if they are the best prices now, but they were when I researched during my build. One thing to note, buying online has good costs, but you have to factor in shipping especially for pieces that are larger than 3 or 4 feet long. But the nice thing about these sites is that they do occasionally have 20-30 percent off sales. Also, if you live near a metal wholesaler, then picking up at will call will save on shipping.

2. I used both aluminum pop rivets and stainless steel screws and construction screws. I riveted the 1/2 inch plywood sole and the side panels to the frames, and to join angle pieces together (that is anywhere aluminum joined aluminum). I used stainless steel screws with lock washers (for extra security) to anchor the aluminum angle that was attached to the sole for the boxes and the rear seat. I also used stainless steel screws for attaching the box tops and the rear bench top to the aluminum angle because I couldn't find pop rivets with the proper shaft length. For the front deck which is joined onto the wood bench seat top, I used #10 or #12 construction screws.

3. You have it right on the hatch lip. I simply glued either a 1x2 or a 1x3. Can't remember the size. Definitely a wider board will give more surface area for the glue to stick. 

4. One last thing, for the tackle locker, I used 1x1x1/8 6063 aluminum angle. I think i used a 3/4x1/8 bar as a rear "stop" to keep the tackle utility boxes flush with each other and to keep them from moving around.

I will say, I'm not sure how economical it really was. Definitely cheaper than getting a new boat or even a used boat with the same features. In the end, it's really not about economics because once you get started, you are always thinking of something new you can add. The nice thing about doing your own mod, you can customize it the way you want. Also, you have to account for accessories. Just the new seats and their hardware must have run about $400 and I got the seats for 30 percent off.

One last thing, I'm sure the boat will run fine with the 20hp, but when you add all the stuff onto the boat, you will likely add at least 100-150 lbs to the boat. While the boat is a lot more stable in rougher waters with the mod because of weight, I definitely lost some top end on speed. With my '67 Johnson 33hp (equivalent to a modern 25-28hp), I was getting a top speed about 26-27mph with the first mod, but it went down to about 23-24mph on the top end with this mod (25mph if I am going with the current/wind).


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## jdsgrog (May 1, 2012)

@Gator

The motor is a '67 Johnson 33hp. It's "bulletproof".


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## jdsgrog (May 2, 2012)

@tripwirenh

I needed to correct something from my last post the more I thought about it. When it came to the lip for the hatch, I actually remembered that I actually used a single rectangular 3/4 inch plywood piece that was a couple of inches per side larger than the hatch opening. In the plywood, I would then cut a rectangular "hole" that was smaller than the hatch opening so it would create a 3/4 inch lip when glued and centered under the hatch opening. I did this because I figure that the lip would be more stable and secure than using four individual pieces of wood.


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## Gators5220 (May 2, 2012)

Nice 33hp 2 or 3 cylinder? It should fly for sure....


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## tripwirenh (May 2, 2012)

jdsgrog

Thanks for all the info. I will probably upgrade the outboard to max hp, which I believe is 40, once I complete major mods. I think I'm just going to enjoy fishing this year just the way it is, as I plan to make a home purchase by the end of summer. Once in my house, I should have a garage that I will be able to work in over the winter. Thanks again, and great job.


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## jdsgrog (May 2, 2012)

Gators5220 said:


> Nice 33hp 2 or 3 cylinder? It should fly for sure....



It's a 2 cylinder. I don't know if I'm getting the full potential out of the motor. I am planning on checking the rpm when I get a chance. But with my rig, it's hitting about 24-25mph max. As mentioned, with my old layout, I maxed at 27mph.


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## 2stix (Jun 13, 2012)

Thanks for all the info. I will probably upgrade the outboard to max hp, which I believe is 40

Really? Mine says 30 max. Great job btw!


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## jdsgrog (Jun 13, 2012)

My s-14 has a max of 35. Not sure what year yours is, but I've seen posts on other forums that show the s-14 to have a max of 35. They may have changed it over the years.


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