# Replacing Motorguide Shaft



## warefishin (Jun 11, 2014)

I am going to try to document the process of replacing the shaft in my motorguide. I hit mine pretty hard on a log and bent it up, but I am also going to go to a 36inch shaft too.


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## warefishin (Jun 11, 2014)

Here is the motor before I started. I left it down and was trying to jump a log That was slightly submerged. 

Its a 12 volt motorguide.


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## warefishin (Jun 11, 2014)

Its bent up pretty bad I went ahead and ordered a 36 inch shaft and 13 inch outer to replace the 46 inch shaft and 20 inch outer. I think this is going to be perfect.


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## warefishin (Jun 11, 2014)

The first thing I did was use an allen wrench to loosen up the collar that connects the shaft to the outer sleeve.


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## warefishin (Jun 11, 2014)

Then I loosened up the three screws under the head of the trolling motor that makes the top of the head come off.


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## warefishin (Jun 11, 2014)

Then I removed the 6 screws that are under the hood to relese the steering cable. I cut the wires because I knew I would have 10 inches of extra wire because of the shorter shaft. if I had it to do over again I would have just squeezed the factory connections with pliers so I wouldnt have to worry about coming up short with a couple of inches of wire from the harness.


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## warefishin (Jun 11, 2014)

[attachment=-1]20140611_135547.jpg[/attachment]


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## warefishin (Jun 11, 2014)

This allows you to free the foot pedal cables from the motor.


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## warefishin (Jun 11, 2014)

At this point you should be able to slide the outer sleeve up and down since the bottom plastic piece of the head is only connected to the sleeve. I bent the outer sleeve on mine so it would only come down a couple of inches before it hit the bend.


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## warefishin (Jun 11, 2014)

The gear that is attached to the top of the shaft will have to be removed next to replace the shaft. I read online that it was attached using loctite so I used a heat gun to heat it up and then used a pair of vice grips to remove it. Its on pretty tight but if u heat it enough it shouldnt take a ton of force to get it off.


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## warefishin (Jun 11, 2014)

At this point if you arent replacing the outer sleeve you should be able to slide it off and lay it aside. If you are like me and have to replace the shaft too then you have to drill out the rivets that attach the bottom of the head to the outer shaft.

This was the hardest part for me because the rivets are stainless steel and much harder to drill out than regular aluminum.the drill bit kept wandering and was going to damage the plastic so I drilled the tops off the rivets and then used some needle nose vicegrips to pull them out from the back inside the tube.

[attachment=-1]20140611_161650.jpg[/attachment][attachment=-1]20140611_161218.jpg[/attachment]


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## warefishin (Jun 11, 2014)

[attachment=-1]20140611_135852.jpg[/attachment]


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## warefishin (Jun 11, 2014)

The plastic piece should slide down and off the bottom of the outer sleeve. But since the bottom of the outer sleeve was kinked I had to use a sawsall to cut off the top lip and then slide the piece off.

[attachment=-1]20140611_162745.jpg[/attachment]


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## warefishin (Jun 11, 2014)

To remove the shaft from the lower it is attached with loctite for sure so you definitely have to heat it up. I laid the lower on a flat surface and after heating up the connection used a pipe wrench to unscrew the shaft from the lower. Again use a good bit of heat and then try it. I have read a lot about people stripping the threads forcing it.

[attachment=-1]20140611_164236.jpg[/attachment][attachment=-1]20140611_164242.jpg[/attachment]


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## warefishin (Jun 11, 2014)

I will post the rest when the parts come in saturday or so. I ordered the shaft the outer sleeve and the rivets to replace the ones I drilled out. I bought a thing of loctite at the fastenall store today. 

The one thing I am worried about right now is attaching the stainless steel rivets I have read that a regular rivet gun will not work on stainless steel rivets. I am going to look around for one the next couple of days. They have the heavy duty rivet guns at lowes for about 50 online they were over 100 at fastenall.


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## Bugpac (Jun 11, 2014)

Were do the rivets go? Its been a while since I repaired one. Actually I shortened it.


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## warefishin (Jun 11, 2014)

They attach the plastic head the the outer sleeve


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## Bugpac (Jun 11, 2014)

Nevermind. I see the pics now. Mine had screws in it.


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## kofkorn (Jun 12, 2014)

Nice writeup! I don't have one of these, but I can see this being really helpful for someone who does. Keep up the good work.

Good luck!


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## warefishin (Jun 12, 2014)

Thats what I was hoping for I didnt see it done anywhere and I wanted to try to contribute since I have gotten so much from everybody.


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## ccm (Jun 12, 2014)

Are you going to replace the bent shaft with a factory aluminum ( If I remember right on the Pro Series the lower shaft was aluminum ) or are you going to upgrade to a stainless steel one? Also what type of mount do you have; I've found that the original Gator Mount or the Gator II Mount ( AKA double spring mount ) work wonders for saving your shaft when the break away knobs are set right. If your wanting to upgrade your mount you can generally pick one up for $50 -$150 according to what is in your area. I use on old Gator II mount and it has saved my shaft from being bent multiple times from hitting submerged stumps.


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## warefishin (Jun 14, 2014)

Going fishing in the morning so I attached this old transom minnkota to the bow bracket to get me by. I had to reverse the head it was really easy. Take out one screw. The one I have in the picture flip it around put the screw back in. 

Its funny I never fished with a trolling motor growing up but now i cant imagine going without one.


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## warefishin (Jun 17, 2014)

One thing I noticed. If you are replacind the outer sleeve it has a small flared out puece attached to the top. I thought the top was flared but its a separate piece.you may want to order this piece too if you replace the outer. I had to heat it and be very careful to get it off without damaging it.


[attachment=-1]20140616_165521.jpg[/attachment][attachment=-1]20140616_165606.jpg[/attachment]


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## warefishin (Jun 22, 2014)

There was actually a flared out ring piece on top and bottom the one on bottom just came off easier


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## warefishin (Jun 22, 2014)

1st step was put one of the flaref rings in the outer sleeve it shouldnt matter top or bottom. I had to convince mine with a rubber mallett

Very important make sure you put the bottom of the head on before you put the other flared ring on the other end of the outer sleeve.

[attachment=-1]20140621_072347.jpg[/attachment]


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## warefishin (Jun 22, 2014)

Once you have done this slide the botttom of the head back up to the top of the outer sleeve and mark the three holes for drilling. These are were the rivets go.

I slid the head back down out of the way while drilling so I wouldnt have to worry about the bit wandering and chewing into the plastic.[attachment=-1]20140621_073115.jpg[/attachment][attachment=-1]20140621_073123.jpg[/attachment]


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## warefishin (Jun 22, 2014)

[attachment=-1]20140622_041854.jpg[/attachment][attachment=-1]20140621_074617.jpg[/attachment]I used my regular arrow rivet gun to attach the rivets. Some people inline said it would take the heavy duty 100$ type for stainless steel rivets this was not true mine worked great. It isnt the cheapes one they sell at lowes but I think it was 25 dollars.


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## warefishin (Jun 22, 2014)

Ok then run the wires through the new shaft from the lower. Time to screw the new shaft into the lower. [attachment=-1]20140621_093231.jpg[/attachment]I got the thread started and then used some of the red thread locker (mind went blank).I used my hands to get it pretty tiggt then put the pipe wrench on it too snug it up


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## warefishin (Jun 22, 2014)

Make sure you put the 2 collars that go on the shaft under the outer sleeve next.[attachment=-1]20140621_093649.jpg[/attachment]


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## warefishin (Jun 22, 2014)

Now put the outer over the sleeve and make sure you put the washer with the ball bearings on before you screw the gear back on top of the shaft. [attachment=-1]20140621_093703.jpg[/attachment]

Then run your wires through the gear and screw it to the top of the shaft. Thread locker again [attachment=-1]1403425831072.jpg[/attachment]

This is what I used its comparable to loctite.


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## warefishin (Jun 22, 2014)

Once you get that done slide the sleeve up snug and tighten the allan wrench on the top of the gear and the allen wrench on the collar below the outer to keep it in place.


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## warefishin (Jun 22, 2014)

Before you rewire the controlls etc make sure you put the gear case over the gear or u will have to re do the wire connections. Dont ask me how I know.[attachment=-1]20140621_102304.jpg[/attachment][attachment=-1]20140621_102307.jpg[/attachment]


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## warefishin (Jun 22, 2014)

After that its pretty easy you have six screws that mount the gearcase and three that put top cover back on. Reconnect the wires and screw it back together.[attachment=-1]20140611_135111.jpg[/attachment]


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