# If I Had To Do It Again, DIY Floors



## jtf (Aug 11, 2018)

I wish I would have paid the extra to the shop for aluminum floors. He didn't want to do it because of labor fitting them in the 1648 jet.

So used marine plywood and old-timers finish as primer, cut forms with cardboard to fit, and built in two pieces that will be able to lift out and clean, so forth.

Should be ready when the fly-fishing hull comes home in a week or two from the fabricator who is installing a knee brace in front deck. By the finish of the floor, I'll have as much in the job as aluminum decking. Live and learn.

Will get a double coat of battleship gray Rust-Oleum oil on top of the three coats of old-timers. Using one sheet plywood, had to close a two inch gap in the front section on each side. Will paint and shoot ss brads with Tightbond 3 glue.

Learned the jig saw should have been adjusted 30 degrees top to bottom to compensate the hull/rib angle. Glad I have a bunch of finish sanders. Used Probond filler where wood was split on edges, good product.


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## troymcilravy (Aug 12, 2018)

I'd love to see a finished picture of the knee brace installed. 

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk


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## richg99 (Aug 12, 2018)

I feel your pain, but.... They wanted an extra $600.00 to put a floor/deck on my 1652 G3. Not only did I think the money was high, I wanted to run my own wiring under the deck, so I opted to do it myself.

I had a thin piece of aluminum deck left over from a prior tinny that I junked. It was short in every direction but covered the bulk of the area. I covered that with two pieces (for flexibility) 1/4 inch (maybe 3/8th...I don't remember now) exterior plywood, and then covered that with Defender Industries Marine vinyl. I'm happy.

One thing I did do differently than you was I purposely did not run the decking all of the way to the side panels. I bumped the paneling up against the side supports, but that still left a 5 by 2 inch (est.) opening next to every brace. I stuffed foam down into each crevice to keep things from getting lost forever down there. That still left me a lot of extra storage nooks... which I have utilized.

Too each his own.


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## jtf (Aug 13, 2018)

I am surprised how light the plywood is but it takes 4-5 days of hot weather to dry the linseed. As Rich points out, it was easier to cut some leftover pieces to fill the voids. Guess it was about $600 for metal floor, louder, hotter and still needed a finish. 

I got the idea from one of my first metal boats fitted by a gentleman, retired adjutant general army officer. He had moved from NC coast inland and said he was 80 years old and didn't want to tow anymore. What a great person! I still have some of the gear he included in the trade, 30 years ago. 

As the gentleman pointed me rightly, the small 16ft tin boat could motor all the way to Cape Lookout with the right weather prediction. 

I think the work will be completed this month and only need to add an easy to use electronic depth/fish finder. Will add photos. Tried to make it fly fishing friendly but I'll throw anything. Also put on smooth cleats as Rich suggested. 

I wonder how it will launch in the surf at OBX? If the NPS doesn't arrest me. 

The only thing I'd do differently would be an 1860 haha!


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## jtf (Aug 13, 2018)

The leaning post is an adjustable seat post and the receiver is an in floor round plate, the one with the 2" hole, it snaps in and locks. The welder is manufacturing a knee yoke to put up top instead of a seat. If it works, this is a option some factory should be offering.


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## jtf (Aug 19, 2018)

Two coats of Rustoleum gray on top of old-timers. Looking good, won't need any sand or traction tape. Only draw back is old-timers takes 7-10 days of warm weather to dry. When the hull comes home next weekend, will drop floors in and post pics. Hope the welder gets the knee brace right. 

Then will mock up a cardboard "side tray" and fabricate (brake) an aluminum sheet to keep short and long rods safe. 

Wish I'd gone 1756 or 1860!


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## richg99 (Aug 20, 2018)

"Wish I'd gone". ....Three foot disease. I've had it many times.


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## jethro (Aug 20, 2018)

richg99 said:


> "Wish I'd gone". ....Three foot disease. I've had it many times.



I had it for many years too! The cure has been a 21' deep "V" tin boat with 100" beam! The downfall is it's close to 3800lbs and uses 15 gallons per hour at full throttle so be careful what you wish for!


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## richg99 (Aug 20, 2018)

I've owned many, many boats. Largest was a 27 ft Catalina Sailboat. Smallest was an 11 foot Snark Sailboat. I had more fun in the smaller ones.

Now, One 1652 G3 tinny and one 1756 Lowe tinny.
All I need right now.


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## jtf (Aug 25, 2018)

Three coats old-timers, sand 180 lightly, three coats Rustoleum, both sides. Probably going to need some adhesive sand strips for traction. Will test as soon as the boat comes back from the welding shop with the close-to-finished mods.

The materials cost wasn't bad, $80 for the marine plywood, $40 for the paint, $15 for the thinner. If I find any pinholes will fill them with toilet wax. Use it for lots of stuff around the farm as a waterproof sealer. Last coat Rustoleum was applied cross grain and it really made a difference.

I wouldn't do this again if I din't have lots of free time. Still much lighter than the old plywood and carpet.


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## jethro (Aug 29, 2018)

richg99 said:


> I've owned many, many boats. Largest was a 27 ft Catalina Sailboat. Smallest was an 11 foot Snark Sailboat. I had more fun in the smaller ones.
> 
> Now, One 1652 G3 tinny and one 1756 Lowe tinny.
> All I need right now.



Exactly. I bought my dream big water trolling vessel and thought I'd be cured from my Craigslist addiction. Now guess what... I find myself longing for a freakin' kayak. 

Oh well, sorry for the hyjack. I am getting ready to do the floors over in my Sylvan. Not looking forward to it.


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## handyandy (Aug 29, 2018)

There is never one perfect boat. You either have one that suites your needs for the majority of the time on the water so say 75% of your water time, and just deal with it not being perfect the other 25% of the time, or have multiple boats. I've liked having aluminum floors in my current boat I just wish they weren't welded in no telling whats lurking under the floor. Way more work than it's worth in my hull to remove the floor it would a heck of a project. Good work on yours the floors look good I'm sure being well sealed/painted they will last a long time to come.


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## jtf (Aug 29, 2018)

That old-timers prep coat takes two weeks to cure. The panels are baking in southwest full sun now and that seems to finish off the top 3 coats of paint.

If anyone has a head's-up with this product, please let me know. I ordered two rolls of 5" transparent step tape. Has an adhesive back and is made for traction on high traffic shop floors. 

https://www.slipdoctors.com/nonsliptape-clear-1x60.asp?gclid=EAIaIQobChMImaiS0p6T3QIVks13Ch38_ATjEAQYBSABEgIRKPD_BwE


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## halkstop (Apr 20, 2021)

Would love to see the final product image.


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## Attwanl (Apr 28, 2021)

I just finished my flooring inside my boat, it already had an aluminum floor. I had to clean it and primer it. I got the boat it was in pieces, easier cleaning it up, didn’t have to do it inside the boat. 


This it before I primed


Base coat of non-skid... tuff coat marine.


Then added splatter or sling finish, drizzle what ever you want to call it.


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