# Trailer Bearing Replacement/Service Instructional Vid



## Bubba

Thought I would post this in another thread, May even be "Sticky Worthy". Its about 15 minutes long, but very detailed and really helpful. This is for a trailer with Drum Brakes, but should be the same for basically any hub assembly I would assume. Anyways, here it is...

https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-grease-seals-repacking-bearings-rg06-050.aspx


----------



## Brine

And here's one specific to a boat trailer.

[youtube]HsCH1d6R7J0[/youtube]


----------



## ben2go

Great vids.I have stickyed this thread.


----------



## pbw

That guy doesn't care to wack anything with a real hammer... I try to use a dead blow hammer or rubber one first...


----------



## Quackrstackr

Brine said:


> And here's one specific to a boat trailer.



That's Tim Farmer and Kentucky Afield. It airs weekly on KY PBS stations.

Good to see that someone took it upon themselves to remove the credit on Youtube.


----------



## ben2go

pbw said:


> That guy doesn't care to wack anything with a real hammer... I try to use a dead blow hammer or rubber one first...




I agree.I use a 3 pound shop hammer and a brass drift.


----------



## Hanr3

I watched the 2nd vid posted. They did a great job walking you through the steps and explaining everything. Should be a termendous help to first timers.


----------



## Rubin56

Don't forget too check your leaf springs, before you go out this year. #-o


----------



## Nozzlejocky

Great videos. I need to do this to my trailer, but having never done it myself, I was a bit leery. Seems simple enough as long as I take my time and pay attention to the instructions.


----------



## dougdad

Trailers with brakes are a bit tougher but the stright axel like the vido showed are gravy, if you can do a tune up on your motor you can do this. all you need is a pair of pliers, a cresent wrench big enough to fit the nut, a hammer, I use a 16 oz. ball peen, and a brass punch or drift. If you have a couple of trailers like I do, boat, camper, utility, snowmobile, the special tool set for installing racers is nice but not necessary if you are carefull. The biggest mistake one can make is to not get the torque right on the nut. I been doing my own for years, and my military job had me doing bearings almost every day, I was in for 17 years, so I have had a bunch of practice, If anyone needs any help I would be more then happy to talk em through it by email, just PM me.


----------



## Marc 1959

Thanks for the links !!!


----------



## brandon__

I watched this the other day and it got me thinking, so i went out did mine and im glad i did. one of my inside races was cracked and missing a chunk, im surprised it didnt do more damage considering i haven't the slightest idea how long it has been like that.


----------



## tortugel

I have never done this b4. I also did not watch the video b4 i did my hubs and had no problems. Put it back just like it came out.


----------



## JMichael

I think this thread needs to be updated or the sticky removed. It only has one vid linked in it now and that vid is only 3 minutes long and all it covers is removal of the hub. The text says the vid is 15 minutes long so they must have switched out the vid or it got damaged some how.


----------



## bluegillfisher

What do you do to your leaf springs? Mine aren't cracked or broken, is that all?


----------



## Robster

The guy in the vid sprays the bearing with some sort of solvent.....solvent melts grease.... so be careful to dry off any solvent based cleaner before applying new grease.


----------



## motfua

lots of good info here,,, thanks guys


----------



## PSG-1

bluegillfisher said:


> What do you do to your leaf springs? Mine aren't cracked or broken, is that all?




Having worked on hundreds of trailers, and seeing the typical failure points, my suggestion is that when you check your springs, you should also check the axle tube in the area of the springs and tie plates. 

Metal-to-metal contact and corrosion does some awful things to axle tubes, an axle will typically fail right where the U-bolts connect the springs to the tie plates. And especially so if it's a factory-built axle, and they followed some design drawn up by a college-boy engineer, that calls for drilling a hole in the axle tube for the spring centering hole. NEVER DO THIS!! It causes a stress riser, as well as a perfect infiltration point for water, which leads to corrosion, and then failure. Weld a spring centering pad to the axle tube.


----------



## cva34

Couple points Missed or I Missed 1 When checking bearing and race if there Blue they been hot and need to be changed..2 Do it in a reasonably clean area with no dust blowing /clean hands and tools when going back together...Cleanlyness is a must for long bearing life and keep you off roadside...3 Use Recomended Quality Grease /not something thats been sitting around without a lid/and or contanimated...cva34


----------



## jomcdani

Any tricks on putting new races in without a race driver?


----------



## lckstckn2smknbrls

jomcdani said:


> Any tricks on putting new races in without a race driver?


I have not tried this but if you cut a slot through the old race you can use it to drive the new race in and will pop right out.


----------



## Clifford_Akov

You can rent a "race driver" very inexpensively at Auto Zone, they sell them too. Makes changing the races much easier. jmho


----------



## jomcdani

Thanks, I've read about using the old race and large sockets. I forgot that Autozone lets you rent parts. I will probably do that. 

Thanks again,


----------



## jomcdani

After the new race was flush with the hub, I used the old race to get it seated. Then to get it closer, I put the old bearing in the old race (now in the hub as well) and hammered it in with a ball peen hammer. Then flipped the hub over and tapped the old race out. 

Thanks for the replies.


----------



## driz

FWIW I have a few trailers and lots of toys to do bearings on. I always used the punch and big hammer for oh so many years. Then one day I had to do something that I just couldn't get around with a socket. Since I was desperate I went and got a set at Autozone under that tool loan program of theirs. Buy it and take it back after for a refund. I used those that one time and said these babies are mine. Best $40 or so I have spent in a long time. I'm not one for buying exotic tools unless I have to but when you own trailers it's just so nice to grab what you need and knock it out. That goes double for those seals that are a tad oversize and issues like that.


----------



## Scott85

jomcdani said:


> Any tricks on putting new races in without a race driver?


It's a lot easier to do it with one. I got a set from harbor freight for 20 bucks.


----------



## perchjerker

jomcdani said:


> Any tricks on putting new races in without a race driver?



brass drift and a little patience. Just tap it gently and walk it in

I was a mechanic for 20+ years, its easy for me

but I do have and recommend a race installer for novices.


----------



## WaterWaif

When I did lots of changes in a service department ,I ground an old race down to a slightly smaller diameter than stock size for common ones. A wood block on top of it.. and whack away.
Used a hammer handle/hardwood dowel driven with a hammer to knock them out with.


----------



## driz

perchjerker said:


> jomcdani said:
> 
> 
> 
> Any tricks on putting new races in without a race driver?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> brass drift and a little patience. Just tap it gently and walk it in
> 
> I was a mechanic for 20+ years, its easy for me
> 
> but I do have and recommend a race installer for novices.
Click to expand...




[-X [-X So true , it's the best $20 you will ever spend. Most times you don't really need one but with old castings , especially ones that have caught a couple hits on the edge with that 2 lb hammer here and there they make things go so easily. Same goes for a cheap seal puller. Now you really don't need one of those at all for trailer bearings but once again if its hanging on your wall you will appreciate it and it will last a lifetime. Best part is you won't be getting all pissed off digging for some tool that will help you get by. 
How about a bearing packer? I truly hate swimming in grease and even with all the right weapons on hand still get slathered in the crap. At least with a bearing packer you get it over with in 30 seconds rather than pushing that goo around with your palm. A packer won't do it any better but at least you are done fast and mine goes back in it's plastic bag coated in greasy slime. All these tools are the sort that the HF models will work just as well as the grossly overpriced (but sexy) snap ons.


----------



## Tinny Fleet

I spray my springs with CorrosionX. Works on your garage door spring too!

The one issue is that the oil attracts dirt. To me though, its worth the tradeoff. Besides I power spray the springs from time to time as well to keep the crud at bay. After a dip in salt water, though, I use warm soapy water at mild pressure to get the salt out of the crevices, before going in with any kind of high pressure wash.


----------



## LDUBS

I watched #2 video. Wow, this is a fantastic "how-to" for guys like me. Certainly removed the mystery. 

What really caught my attention was the water draining out of the hub when he removed the grease cap.


----------

