# picked up a jet jon project



## semojetman (Nov 24, 2013)

Its a 1436 GM boat with a 640 cc suzuki motor.

I will just say it was cheap. 

Not sure if it will end up a donor rig for another project my buddy has or if it will be a fix up and sell or become just a toy.

He never GPSd it but he thinks it would get close to 40.


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## Ranchero50 (Nov 24, 2013)

You'll be ruined now. Enjoy it and post up some more pics.


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## semojetman (Nov 25, 2013)

I absolutely love the way these pumps bolt in.
Does anyone know how large of a motor you could put in front of this pump before your outrunning it.


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## PSG-1 (Nov 25, 2013)

I'm not sure what size that pump is, but I'm running a 155mm pump with a 160 HP Yamaha FXHO engine. I don't think you can over-power one of these pumps, their only limit is the RPM, above 8000 RPM, the pump will begin to cavitate excessively.


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## semojetman (Nov 25, 2013)

I dont know what size my pump is either.
What all was the 155mm pump available in?


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## PSG-1 (Nov 25, 2013)

Yamaha used 144 and 155mm pumps with most of their bolt-in units. 

If you engine is a Suzuki 640, it's most likely a 1995 Tigershark Montego. This model was one of the few that did use a bolt-in aluminum duct. And since that pump doesn't look like a Yamaha pump, I'm going to say this is likely what pump it is.

In that case, here's a link just to show the parts:


https://www.alpha-sports.com/arctic_cat_tigershark_parts.htm

I wouldn't try to order anything from here, though, because, since they are unused parts which are near obsolete, they are VERY expensive. That intake duct, for instance, is over 900 dollars!! :shock: 

Compare that to the price for a brand new duct of a yamaha xl1200 at about 200 dollars, and you can see why the yamaha is the more economical pump choice for any jet john build, or if you decide to replace that existing pump at some point.

You're better off to look around on the net to find any replacement part you may need for the TS pump. A wear ring and prop, for instance. Maybe the thru-hull bering, if the existing one is leaking. Or possibly the stator if the vanes are eat up from sand or corrosion. Most everything else in a pump doesn't wear out.

Hope this helps.


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## PSG-1 (Nov 25, 2013)

BTW, yours is a 142mm pump, according to this:

https://sites.google.com/a/i7.kkthtd.com/buyprice591/cheap-1995-1997-tigershark-montego-deluxe-pwc-impeller-super-camber-i-j-k-series


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## semojetman (Nov 26, 2013)

Yes, it is the 640. Came out of a Tigershark Montego.
I think we're gonna use the tigershark pump behind a sea doo xp 657 motor in a an all welded 14 footer.

I am trying to learn as much as possible because in time I want to build somwhere around a 16 or 17 footer with a 4 stroke and a yamaha pump.


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## PSG-1 (Nov 26, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=335335#p335335 said:


> semojetman » 41 minutes ago[/url]"]Yes, it is the 640. Came out of a Tigershark Montego.
> I think we're gonna use the tigershark pump behind a sea doo xp 657 motor in a an all welded 14 footer.
> 
> I am trying to learn as much as possible because in time I want to build somwhere around a 16 or 17 footer with a 4 stroke and a yamaha pump.




In that case, my jetboat would be a good prototype to work from, because that's exactly what I have, the XL1200 pump with a FXHO 4 stroke.


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## semojetman (Nov 28, 2013)

Well, the jetjon may get to stay intact.
We found a different donor for the other boat.
135 hp 1100R TS motor and pump.

The ski runs 65 mph, so we're interested to see what it will do in a 1440 alumaweld.


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## semojetman (Nov 28, 2013)




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## Captain Ahab (Nov 29, 2013)

Damn - that looks sick!


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## tigfisher (Nov 29, 2013)

adjustable trim?


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## semojetman (Nov 29, 2013)

Yes, it has adjustable trim.


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## tigfisher (Nov 29, 2013)

thats sweet semojet, mine has 4 positions....its a instant shallow water take off , you can also adjust the cable to aim the nozzle sky high and throw some nice roost.
cool project


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## PSG-1 (Nov 29, 2013)

I wish my XL1200 had a trim system, but it only has reverse. I could modify it by using a GP1200 nozzle and the reverse system of the SUV1200 pump, then it would have reverse AND trim. May end up doing that, I'm sure being able to trim the nozzle up would gain me a few MPH on top end.


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## semojetman (Dec 1, 2013)

Yeah. Im gonna find out today.
Maiden voyage.
It is nice that it has trim but it doesnt have reverse.

We picked up a tigershark 1100R ski yesterday for the powerplant in the welded 14 footer


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## semojetman (Dec 2, 2013)

Does anyone know on my tigershark 640, what would happen if I put dual carbs on it.
The daytona was the 640 but it was dual carb 70 hp.
Mine came out of a montego and they were single carb 62 hp.


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## PSG-1 (Dec 2, 2013)

I think Scubapro is the expert on Arctic Cat/Tigershark engines. I only know about the 900 and 1000 engines, don;t have any experience with the 640.


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## semojetman (Dec 3, 2013)

Cool. Hopefully he'll chime in.
I looked but couldnt find him


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## PSG-1 (Dec 3, 2013)

Yeah, I haven't seen him on here in a while. Here's the thread to his build, maybe you can click his profile and send him a PM

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=27891


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## gotmuddy (Dec 4, 2013)

that thing was on craigslist forever it seems like. looks like a cool rig though


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## semojetman (Dec 4, 2013)

The one that has been on there forever is alot like it.
This one he had just decided to sell.

im working out a few small bugs, building a motor cover, and a few cosmetic upgrades and then ill either keep it for an extra toy or sell it in the spring.


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## PSG-1 (Dec 4, 2013)

If you line your engine cowling with egg crate type foam, you will be amazed at how much it reduces the noise. Check out McMaster-Carr, they have some fire resistant acoustic foam that reduces noise by up to 80%

I see a lot of videos of jet johns with no cowling, with the operator wearing earmuffs. Just doesn't make sense. First off, the danger of doing a fast turn, etc, and having the engine be swamped. Not to mention the engine's constant exposure to UV and the elements, which will take its toll over time. Not only that, but why have a boat that's so loud, you have to scream at the person riding with you to be heard? Build a cowling! #-o


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## tigfisher (Dec 4, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=335744#p335744 said:


> semojetman » 02 Dec 2013, 21:49[/url]"]Does anyone know on my tigershark 640, what would happen if I put dual carbs on it.
> The daytona was the 640 but it was dual carb 70 hp.
> Mine came out of a montego and they were single carb 62 hp.




i dont know anything about tigersharks, mines a kawi 650, but i dont recommend dual carbs. a mikuni 44mm or 45mm sbn carb will be plenty. you can go to pwctoday forum and get more info on tigersharks.
as for insulating engine covers and exhaust pipes/waterbox, it makes day and night difference in noise, well worth it.


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## fishbum (Dec 6, 2013)

There is a 2001 gp1200r for sale near me
Says had water intrusion ? Now just clicks when you try to start
Does this model have the right kind of pump and other stuff to make a project?
He is asking $800 how would it get water in it? Thanks


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## PSG-1 (Dec 6, 2013)

Water could have intruded one of 2 ways. Either the boat was swamped, or someone ran it on the water hose, and turned the water on before starting the engine, and it backed up through the exhaust. Just clicking when you hit the starter sounds like a case of 'hydro-lock', in other words, a cylinder is full of water. Hopefully not salt water, and hopefully it hasn't been like this for too long, or the engine is FUBAR. To clear it, you have to pull the plugs, turn the engine upside down and hit the starter to blow the water out. If you can get it started, next thing to check would be compression, which should be around 150 PSI on each cylinder (for an undamaged engine)

As for the pump, I think the GP1200 was one of the models that used the bolt-in aluminum duct, much like mine. You should be able to tell by looking under the ski and seeing if the intake duct is fiberglass or aluminum.


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## Ranchero50 (Dec 7, 2013)

Click sounds like water in the electrical box or the starter got wet. A thunk sound would be a better description of a locked crank which could be pump, hull seal or engine related.

I get the click out of the starter on occasion after the hull has sat for a week or two. Might have to rapid fire the start button a dozen times but it'll eventually go thunk after which I'll hold the button and pull the choke until it fires off.


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## fishbum (Dec 7, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=336041#p336041 said:


> Ranchero50 » Today, 14:48[/url]"]Click sounds like water in the electrical box or the starter got wet. A thunk sound would be a better description of a locked crank which could be pump, hull seal or engine related.
> 
> I get the click out of the starter on occasion after the hull has sat for a week or two. Might have to rapid fire the start button a dozen times but it'll eventually go thunk after which I'll hold the button and pull the choke until it fires off.



I am sure he means it is locked up! 
He also has a couple complete pumps with aluminum intakes
He will sell for $150 Wonder how much it can cost to rebuild that 1200


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## PSG-1 (Dec 7, 2013)

Yeah, there's a big difference between a 'click' and a 'clunk' A clunk means hydro-lock, or a seized piston.

A simple clicking, and no starter engaging would be indicative of an issue with the starter solenoid, or even a loose connection. To determine if the solenoid is faulty, try using a jumper across the 2 terminals and see if this engages the starter.


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## semojetman (Dec 8, 2013)

The weather has been unfavorable (as in thd snow is deeper than the boat)
So no test runs or anything.


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## tigfisher (Dec 8, 2013)

that sucks man, you guys in missouri got it pretty bad from this winter storm and its not even winter yet. i remember in '08 or '09 winter here in tn. was pretty bad, i decided to take my jet out in middle of january to catch some fish...well my pee hose from the engine was not putting out any water(i got it mounted mid section of boat so i can see water peeing out the motor) after i ran it about half mile, the motor was steaming hot. luckily the high temp for that day was above freezing and thawed out around noonish. 
i swear nothing works right when its freezing cold, either it breaks when you touch it or its frozen!!


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## PSG-1 (Dec 8, 2013)

Tigfisher, I had that exact same thing happen with my Tigershark 1000, back around 2007 or 2008. Went out early one morning, the low was about 20 degrees (yep, here in coastal SC, it does get that cold) I didn't realize my lines were frozen from the boat sitting on the trailer in the yard, and I ended up running hot.

One thing you can do to make sure this doesn't happen is to make a blowout tool. Get a brass ball valve, a male air hose QC fitting, and a male garden hose fitting, and the fittings to connect the 2 ends to the ball valve.

To use it, thread the male GH end to your flush fitting. Close the ball valve, and connect the QC to an air hose. *SLOWLY* open the ball valve. The air pressure will purge any remaining water in the lines, and it only takes a few PSI to do it. You don't want to open the valve WAO at 125 PSI to start with. Once you see/hear the water blasting out the jet pump, you can open the ball valve a little more until you only hear air blowing out of the jet unit.

At this point, the water cooling/discharge lines are purged, and will be much less prone to freezing.

BTW, the blowout tool works great for quickly draining the hoses around the yard, to prevent them from freezing, as well.


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## tigfisher (Dec 8, 2013)

that is a very good idea psg-1, my motor does have a flush kit on it where i use to ride the ski in the ocean. but i think its a good idea to blow the water out every use to minumize calcium deposits in the water jacket. i remember people reving the hell outta their motors at the boat ramp thinking all the salt water is coming out the motor, but only water coming out is in the pipe and water box. not the engine block. the water jacket on my motor was built up with barnicles when i rebuilt it 10 years ago. i dont flush it no more since i only use it in fresh water....and i forgot all about the flush attachment!!!!


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## PSG-1 (Dec 9, 2013)

I've been running PWC's in saltwater since 1986, so, I'm quite familiar with the effects of saltwater on these engines. It's not a pretty sight.

Even if you're blowing it out by running it at the ramp, if you're using it in salt water, only an engine flush with a garden hose can flush out salt water deposits. Failing to rinse it out after use in saltwater will lead to sugar/slime (electrolysis) building up in the cooling passages to the point that it can restrict flow and run the engine hot. If nothing else, the machined edges and/or passages of cooling jackets can erode, then you start getting water in the cylinders.

If using in fresh water, you don't need to flush, but it is a good idea to run it and rev it enough to blow the majority of the water from the waterbox and exhaust system. But revving doesn't get the water out of the feed lines that run from the pump and flush fitting to the engine. This is where the blowout tool comes in handy.


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## Ranchero50 (Dec 9, 2013)

Mine self drains... Had the exhaust manifold crack two years ago and rerouted the lines so it'll run out now.


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## semojetman (Dec 28, 2013)

If anybody is interested, I would sell the jetjon.
I dont really want to sell it but ive found another boat and I need the money ive got wrapped up in this one for the next.

It is a 1448 GM aluminum jon
640 c.c. 62 hp Suzuki jet
Has manual trim (will shoot rooster tail)
Has stick steer with throttle on stick. Push button start on stick. Safety kill.

I just bought a new 2013 trailer for it.

I am about to paint the boat.

$1400 obo


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## semojetman (Dec 28, 2013)

Im planning on either grey or olive drab green but if someone is interested I can paint whatever color they would like it.


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## gotmuddy (Dec 30, 2013)

the pic looks like a 1436 not a 1448


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## semojetman (Dec 30, 2013)

Ooopps. Typo.
You are right. Its a 1436.

Thanks for catching that.


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## semojetman (Jan 1, 2014)

got er painted today. Looks alot better.

Gonna install a new coolant water line exit tomorrow
Gonna reroute the exhaust out the transom.


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## semojetman (Jan 1, 2014)




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## PSG-1 (Jan 1, 2014)

It's amazing how much better things look with a fresh paintjob! 

Still can't figure out why the previous owner, or for that matter, so many jet john builders, fail to build a cowling. I can't tell you how many videos I've seen where the operator and/or passenger are wearing flight deck earmuffs to ride in the boat. A cowling just seems like a good idea, not only to protect the operator's hearing, but to protect the engine from the elements, as well.


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## semojetman (Jan 1, 2014)

If I end up keeping it a little while I will build an aluminum cowling but im thinking about building a vinyl button on cover for now.


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## semojetman (Jan 4, 2014)

Some pictures before I sell it.
Its a cool little rig, im gonna miss it.


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