# tracker grizzly



## Arrowhand (Oct 10, 2010)

hello all. just picked up my first tin boat, but its #14 in a long line of boats


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## jcb (Oct 10, 2010)

You not tell what model you have.


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## bobberboy (Oct 10, 2010)

It looks like a 1448 Grizzly with alum floor and sides. I have one w/o the floor and sides and love it. I threw in a wooden floor last spring but like the boat so much I may put in the alum after all. Mine has a 25hp and goes 30+ mph. Hope you like yours as much as I do.


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## jcb (Oct 10, 2010)

I has 1448 and i likes alot,my boat has tiller steer and 20hp jet on her.I see that picture has console on it.I just wondering if its 1448 or 16 footer =D>


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## Arrowhand (Oct 10, 2010)

sorry about that--its the 1448 sc with a 25hp merc. Spent a couple hours doing laps around the lake getting it broken in this morning and then spent some time with installs.


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## Arrowhand (Oct 10, 2010)

a couple more work in process shots.

one thing that is really bugging me--I can not get those fishing seat risers back out-when I sat down they "clicked" down and now are in there--anyone have a idea?. I dont have any access to the underneath of the rear bench as its foam filled.


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## SaltyBuckster (Oct 10, 2010)

Looks like your on your way to some real fun times with that one.


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## KRS62 (Oct 11, 2010)

Those seats are classic!

I have a similar issue trying to get my posts out (mine are rusty and I should replace them) and I end up using channel locks. Yes, it does scratch them.

Nice job on the wire. Is that for your main motor and trolling motor I assume?

KRS


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## benjineer (Oct 11, 2010)

On the pedestal seat bases: I have one on my glass boat that is supposed to be stainless. It is not completely, and the rust seems to be causing the hole in the plastic bushing to shrink. You may have to unbolt the base and put in a press to remove. Then take a 3/4 drill or preferably a reamer and run it down in the hole. My bushing is solid plastic. I notice that the new base I just bought, it is not solid, and instead is sliced so it has fingers. I don't think I'd recommend drilling that type.


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## Arrowhand (Oct 11, 2010)

They both will move up about a 1/32 and then stop--its like a pin is engaged and holding them in. Theres no rust and I could swear theres a plastic insert that the riser slid into, but now I cant see it


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## benjineer (Oct 11, 2010)

The old "kingpin" style was a smooth pin and smooth hole. Now, some of the posts have a smaller diameter on a section near the end. I think it's supposed to work with the base to require a little force to get it out to keep the pin from coming out unintentionally. Different manufacturers may make them a little different though. Of course they recommend you match both components of the same brand. Maybe your plastic bushing (the type that locks) and pin have a square mating edges when one of them should be tapered a little. You'd have to be able to get them apart and examine them closer to see what the deal is. ](*,)


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## Arrowhand (Oct 14, 2010)

Ups man dropped of the braket for the troling motor a couple days ago then got the troling motor today, spent some time tonight and got those installed. Tomorow should be getting the outboard trailering braket and side guides. Its so fun to come home and have a package waiting. 

Hopefully this weekend i can get my head under the front deck and see what i can see in regards to the dang seat risers.


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## captdan (Oct 15, 2010)

I would add an access cap to the bench so that you can get in there in the future.....


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## benjineer (Oct 15, 2010)

If you can't figure it out, just take the seat base off. That's what you'll have to do to press it out anyway. Small arbor press is on my list of tools to have one day. The list is long!


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## Ranchero50 (Oct 15, 2010)

Yep, those pin bases can be a PITA. once you get it out take a file and rounds off the edge on the steel part where it's thinner in the middle and it'll come off easier. One of mine is that way too, cathes on the nylon insert.

Jamie


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## Arrowhand (Oct 15, 2010)

captdan--the rear bench is foam filled so there would be no reason to add a access port.


jamie--any idea on how the rear seat base is held down? I'm worried about getting the screws out and then having nothing for the screw or bolts to go back into-im sure there put together before the bench seat was installed in the hull


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## jcb (Oct 15, 2010)

I cut squair hole in both sides of me 1448 and added Trempress hatch there.I like haveing storage under there.Was foam under there like sated above but i just remove some to create place for items storage. =D>


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## Arrowhand (Oct 17, 2010)

ok, got the seat riser's out. the front one was easy-just got under there and was able to see what was holding it in place, little plastic insert with finders going into a grove on the riser. quick work with a pair of pliers and it now will come out. The rear seat base was just screwed into the benchseat-turned out to be no big deal at all.

Heres a couple more photos


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## jasond37 (Oct 19, 2010)

It's looking really nice!


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## BaitCaster (Oct 19, 2010)

Nice boat. Good work on the mods. Where did you get that mounting bracket for your trolling motor?


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## Arrowhand (Oct 20, 2010)

link for the mount
https://www.birdsallmarine.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=TROLLING+MOTOR+MOUNT&osCsid=c867822a030b69799cbb3a32be6476e5


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## fishshtick (Jan 20, 2011)

I got the same boat. You're gonna love it! Just so you know, I put my front cleats just about straddling the angles where the side gunwalls meet up with the straight section that make the bow point. Also, if you are up for a bit of grinding, it is possible to open up the undersides of the gunwales in strategic places and run your wiring inside them. I even ran my trolling motor harness from the back of the boat that way and put my fuse panel up under the console. Gives it a very clean look. I enclosed the wires in that black flexible split conduit before running it in the gunwalls to further reduce risks of abrassion. Keep in mind, there a couple of sheetmetal screws holding one of the two boat ID plates under the port gunwall. You should remove those if you plan to run the wiring inside them.

Have fun!


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## jj97blazer (Jan 21, 2011)

Great looking boat man. If you don't mind me asking, where did you find that seat caddy and cup holder? I need a few of those.


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## Brine (Jan 21, 2011)

I used a similar mount for my front trolling motor for several years. I found that I needed to through bolt my motor (55# thrust) to prevent the motor from loosening/coming off the mounting block. I also secured the upper part of the shaft of the TM to the boat (via a bungee) to prevent all of the torque (bouncing) applied to the TM mount when driving down the road.

Not sure if you'll have the same problem or not, but the bungee and through-bolting did the trick. 

Nice rig.


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## smittles1179 (Jan 21, 2011)

Nice. I also have a 1448 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JuFpP-M9YO4
or search for smittles1179 on youtube to find all my vids.


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## nathanielrthomas (Jan 21, 2011)

jj97blazer said:


> Great looking boat man. If you don't mind me asking, where did you find that seat caddy and cup holder? I need a few of those.



Bass Pro Shops. Theyre about $20...


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## jj97blazer (Jan 22, 2011)

Thanks bud. I appreciate it.


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