# Derek's Tracker TX-17 rebuild



## Derek (Feb 16, 2011)

So this is GOING to be my ride next year. I picked it up a few weeks ago, It is defiantly a project. 
Its a 1988 Bass Tracker TX-17 Tournament. I think what makes this the tournament boat is the large livewell, longer front deck and tons of storage. The motor is a 70's Mercury 40hp, non-tilt and trim. The boat is rated for 80 hp. 40 LB thrust Minn Kota motor. Lawrence fish finder. On the original trailer.

The Good:
The trolling motor is 1 year old and the newer style foot pedal.
The front deck and carpet were replaced last year with marine grade plywood
The controls and steering for the motor were replaced last year.
Bilge, livewell, fish finder and trolling motor all work.
New trailer tires last year.
Its mine  and I got a good deal.

The Bad:
The bracket for the starter on the motor is cracked, but I can weld that or have it welded. It also looks like the whole part maybe replaceable. Or upgrade?? :twisted: 
The trailer is rotted, so I likely will be replacing it rather then fixing it. Craigslist here I come, again.
Some of the wood and carpet are in rough shape, but can be replaced fairly easily
The driving seats need to be replaced. They are hard plastic. The original fishing seats may be used there since I stand while fishing anyway.

The Pics: (clickable thumbnails)
























It needs some love, and I have plenty of time before the ice melts. Progress maybe slow, I have it stored over an hour away. I cant wait for soft water.


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## Derek (Feb 16, 2011)

Tear into the boat is right, haha :beer:
Well we did a major deconstruction of the boat 2 weeks ago. Removed the console, seats, hatches, 90% of the carpet, all the wood and wiring. Everything under the decks and floor is all aluminum and the whole rear deck is also aluminum. 
The bottom floor of the boat was rotted so bad, I think if it had not been frozen it would have been mush. The foam under the floor was water logged so that will also be replaced.
I was told the front deck was replaced with marine grade ply and new carpet. It wasnt, I found 1/2" regular ply with only 2 screws holding it down. 
All the wood will be replaced with 3/4" ply. I am going to remove and seal all the wood after final fitment. Then new carpet throughout. I think the carpeting is going to be the hardest part. Im also going to run all new wire in the boat. Hopefully with a friend that does it professionally. 
I need to pick up or borrow a rivet tool. Also need to buy 3 sheets of ply, varnish, carpet and glue, wire, and Im sure other little stuff.

pictures are thumbnails click for larger view


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## Derek (Feb 16, 2011)

Unfortunately I forgot to take pictures, but the deconstruction is 98% complete. Yesterday we tore into the rear deck/storage areas. Basstracker fills the rear with foam. When they did it in 88 they would build the whole rear deck and pour in a 2 part expanding foam. I ripped it all out for 2 reasons, first the whole rear deck was bulged from the foam and more importantly mine was water logged. 

The biggest problem with Basstracker's methods is they do not control the foam from expanding. So it expands and fills the channels along the bottom of the boat. This blocks the water from being able to flow back to the bilge area. Seems extremely stupid to me. The bottom 4" of my foam was water logged and frozen solid. It was a b**ch, thankfully I had help. I plan on replacing the foam. I have not decided on a method yet. The foam will be closed cell and I will make sure it is off the bottom of the boat. I may use pool noodles. :+1

All the aluminum panels are out of the boat. To put everything back I have ALOT of riveting to do.

Gentlemen... we can rebuild... we have the technology. :beer:


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## Derek (Feb 16, 2011)

I also got in the first part for the boat trolling motor tray. Thanks Bassboy


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## Derek (Feb 16, 2011)

The deconstruction is 100% complete. All the foam that is coming out has been removed. Drilled out all the rivets to be replaced. Cleaned out all the channels along the boat for the water to be able to flow back to the bilge again. I also mocked up my front deck with the crappy piece of ply that was there, so I have a template for the new piece.



 





Im going to scrub down the inside of the hull to remove any mold/mildew left. Then from here on out Ill be rebuilding and it will start to look like a boat again. I got foam from my friend Todd, its going to work perfect and free.


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## jsharp (Feb 16, 2011)

nice looking boat going to be good when you get all done look forward to seeing the progress i have one just like it i tore all the carpet out of it and just painted the inside with a good rubberized paint instead of carpeting well good luck with the build


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## Decatur (Feb 16, 2011)

Looks like you got a good project going there!


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## Derek (Feb 20, 2011)

Thanks guys. Going to work on it tomorrow. I plan on adding some extra framing under the front deck. I'm going to frame in a hatch in the front portion of the front deck. There is a ton of room up there but originally there was no way to utilize it. I have 1.5"x1/8" aluminum angle to frame it out with.

Looking to pick up carpet. Anyone have an idea how much I need. I will be carpeting the decks, floor, all the lids and I have side panels in the boat as well. Was thinking the 6' wide but how long? 20', 25' or 30'? They also make 8' wide.


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## Brine (Feb 20, 2011)

Nice looking rig. Measure up all the areas you want to carpet, and you should have a good idea of how much to get. 

I have family in Sterling. Small world.


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## Derek (Feb 24, 2011)

If you ever fished out here, I live right around the corner from East Waushacum. Its the only pond with a boat ramp in town.

I forgot to take any pictures. I added extra framing to the front deck. With the vertical kicker I added the framing is solid, even without the wood on it. I also framed out a 24"x17" hatch for the front portion of the front deck. I plan to use this area to store dirty gear (anchor, paddle, beach chair, etc) as the other compartments will be carpeted inside.

Then I moved on to the rear, laid the floor for the rear fuel/battery hatch. Also the baffle between the livewell and fuel area was installed. Started cutting up foam for under the rear deck. I have one side mostly complete but I couldn't finish installing it and that side of the deck until I plumb the livewell.


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## Derek (Feb 28, 2011)

Yesterday I didn’t get as much work on the boat done as I had planned. Instead I drove over 350 miles around the great state (ha) of Massachusetts. It was worth it though since I picked up a FREE 18’ glass boat on a galvanized trailer. :mrgreen: for craigslist. It’s a 18’ Renken bowrider set-up for an outboard motor. Boat is junk only thing I saved from it was the glove box, which I may or may not use. But the trailer is going to work out perfect. It is defiantly more trailer then I need but will still work great and towed awesome. It needs lights and I’ll be moving the tires, winch, and jack from the rotted trailer to the galvanized one. Need to figure out disposal of the junk glass boat, hopefully for free at the town dump.

After my travels I only had a little time to work on my tracker. I the cut foam and re-installed one side of the rear deck. The other side is ready as soon as I get the right tubing to plumb my livewell drain line. Its 1-3/8” which is a weird size. Again I forgot to snap any pictures. ](*,)


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## Derek (Mar 4, 2011)

Good news. I am going to be able to bring the glass boat to the dump for free. Just got to make sure it doesn't have fuel in it, but I am going to have to take a weekday off from work as they will only accept it on weekdays. Heading out to Granby to work on the boat tomorrow, Ill make sure I take some pictures.


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## Skidz (Mar 4, 2011)

Looking good! 

Do you think you might be able to use any floatation foam from the glass boat in the Tracker? Maybe if you could cut out large squares and re-use them in some way?

Skidz


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## Derek (Mar 4, 2011)

Id be willing to bet the glass boat is as bad or worse inside then the tracker was. I have sheet insulation that I have been cutting into pieces and stacking in the rear deck area. I will also put it under the floor.


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## Derek (Mar 5, 2011)

Going back together. Pictures of the boat I picked up for the trailer. Taking the boat to the dump this coming week. Then I will overhaul the trailer, adjust it to fit the tracker and swap my boat onto it.


 

 

This guy showed up shortly after I arrived. I was able to close the distance to about 40 yards when he heard me and took off. Its getting towards the end of mating season here.


 

Got the tubing to plumb the livewell and hooked that up. Then I got the rear deck going back together. There is a piece of wood that belongs under the pedestal mount. Once the wood is sealed I can put the rear together for good. Hatches are just resting in place. Livewell is between the seats running parallel to the boat.


 

Old piece of wood cut up for my trolling motor tray and hatch. Just going to be used as a template for the new plywood I have going in. The rear piece of the front deck is not show. You can see the areas where the hatches will be in the deck. Makes the front deck about 6 feet long.


 

With the wood removed you can see the extra bracing I added under the front deck. Stiffened it up and framed out the extra hatch.


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## Derek (Mar 14, 2011)

Quick update from yesterday. I got all the wood for the boat cut out. Used 3/4 ply. Put the first coat of Spar Urethane on. Going to get a few more coats over the next few days. I didn't go to Granby so no other work on the boat or trailer.


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## Derek (Mar 19, 2011)

Took the day off and went out to Granby yesterday. I wanted to get rid of the glass boat. When I showed up there was so much water in the glass boat that the tires on the trailer looked like they were going to pop and the jack had sunk 4" into the gravel. I quickly drilled a bunch of holes in the transom to get the water to drain out. After an hour of draining the water was still coming.
Hooked up and headed for the dump. When I chained the boat to a dozer I ripped the tie down rings out of the boat on the first try. Then I chained it up through 2 holes in the splash well and pulled the trailer right out from under it. Apparently the guys at the dump love crushing boats, but I didn't have time to stay and watch.
When I got home I started working on the trailer. I have decided to just adjust it for the tracker and get it road worthy. I will go through it completely at another time, water is starting to open up. I noticed that the axle didn't look straight and after measuring I confirmed that. The trailer is fully adjustable so I only needed to unbolt some u-bolts and adjust it. I broke a couple so I had to pick some up at Tractor Supply. Got the axle square and the bunks adjusted. The bunks that were there are in good shape so I just turned them around and reattached. I also wired the trailer with new lighting kit. Walmart submersible trailer lighting kit comes with wire nuts??? :wtf: for connections so I used weatherproof butt connectors instead. I also swapped on the nearly new jack from the tracker trailer.
I finished sealing the wood last week and test fit it yesterday. Time for carpet. The trailer still needs a winch post, which will likely come from the tracker trailer. I have newer tires to put on it as well. The fenders will be salvaged off the tracker trailer, so I have some welding to do.


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## TNtroller (Mar 21, 2011)

lots of work to be done, but will be a NICE one when done. GL.


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## Derek (Mar 27, 2011)

Long but productive day yesterday. I got the winch post together and mounted up on the new trailer. Also got the new tires swapped over. Im going to just get new fenders for the trailer. Found them for 20 bucks apiece. I also cut about a foot off the tongue of the trailer and it will get a new coupler. Then we hoisted the boat off the old trailer and hung it from the garage. Easily swapped trailers and got the boat to its new home. Holy crap was the tracker trailer rotted, Without the boat on it I was able to bend it in half. Thank god I made it home. A bunch of cutting and the rotted trailer ended up on a pallet.


 

 

 



Got the rear deck all put back together. Just needs carpet.




Test fit all the wood and aluminum pieces. Everything fits well. Nothing is attached, thats why the console looks crooked. Trolling motor tray is nice. Thanks Bassboy 


 

 

 

Next is carpet. I also am going to refinish the console as it is old and cracking and repair the cracked windshield.


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## Derek (Mar 28, 2011)

I am def getting anxious. I even brought "homework" back from Granby this week. Here is the windshield in partial repair. The lower half (its upside down) will get sanded and painted on the outside. That way the crack will not show, once sanded smooth, and the top portion will still be see through.


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## hsiftac (Mar 28, 2011)

great work so far its going to be real nice when its all carpeted, are you keeping the 40 on there?


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## Derek (Mar 28, 2011)

For now I am. At some point I want to find an 80 for it.


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## huntingbronco (Mar 28, 2011)

Boat looks great - I am going through the same project on a 79 Tracker. The foam was exactly as you described - expaned into the channels - blocking water from draining to the bilge. I reinstalled the foam using wax paper dams to prevent it from flowing back into the channels and repeating the screw up originally committed by Tracker.

I have the same engine (or nearly) you can see my progress on rebuilding that too. If you need to repair your starter mount, let me know, as mine was repaired using a strap of steel - pretty creative solution actually. I can take some pics if you want to see how it works.


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## reedjj (Mar 28, 2011)

Great work on the decks!


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## Derek (Mar 29, 2011)

thanks guys

bronco, I sent you a pm but I would like to see that picture if possible.


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## gouran01 (Apr 3, 2011)

doin great, I have nearly the exact same project goin on (87 lowe commander) almost exact same, just finally got warm enough to get back to work with the paint n such. I'm doin away with the carpet and using the gray truck bed liner instead.


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## dyeguy1212 (Apr 3, 2011)

Looks good. I have the same boat, but a '95. I really wanted to put in a recessed TM tray, but there is a storage compartment wall that will be in the way. I'm still trying to decide if I want to give it the 'ol tin snip treatment :roll:


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## Derek (Apr 4, 2011)

I watched your build, it came out nice. On the trolling motor tray, I haven't fished it yet obviously but just standing up there in the garage it is a huge improvement.


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## Derek (Apr 11, 2011)

Well yesterday kinda sucked. I finished scraping ](*,) and prepping everything for new carpet. 
Then I measured, cut and loomed the main wiring. Snaked that all through the boat. It will all be hidden by the sidewalls of the boat and my breaker panels will be hidden under the console. Im also going to build a new switch panel to clean up the console. It has a ton of holes in it from the previous owners putting in a bunch of switches. 
I installed, plumbed, and wired the aerator and bilge pumps. I just need to get another aerator spray head for the livewell and a drain plug. 
I also added a new coupler to the tongue of the trailer.
Sorry no pictures, but it doesn't look any different.


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## dyeguy1212 (Apr 14, 2011)

Derek said:


> I watched your build, it came out nice. On the trolling motor tray, I haven't fished it yet obviously but just standing up there in the garage it is a huge improvement.



Yeah its been an uphill battle getting used to doing the captain morgan pose after fishing all of last year with a recessed pedal...


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## Derek (Apr 14, 2011)

I need a lean seat to use it Captain Morgan style. I however never sit down while fishing so I am hoping with the pedal recessed I wont need any kinda of seat. Which will make the deck more open.

Got my carpet and glue in the mail. Going to be laying it down this weekend, hopefully all of it.


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## Derek (Apr 17, 2011)

Well yesterday was a long day but a very productive day. Dan and I banged out as much carpet as possible. We finished nearly everything except for the rear deck. I misplaced my pedestal mount for the rear, so we couldn't do that section until it is found/replaced. We used the carpet glue from the same manufacturer as the carpet and a glue trowel. Then we used contact cement on the edges and underside, stretched the edges and stuck it. The roll of carpet I bought was 8'6"x25' and I will not have a ton left. I would say any smaller roll would have run out. 


 



Making sure the grain is running the right way is very important if you don't want a checkerboard. These hatches were set in place 180* out. The grain is still running front to back but opposite way and it changed the look completely.


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## dyeguy1212 (Apr 17, 2011)

Nice.. I like black carpet a lot


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## Derek (Apr 18, 2011)

I'm sure its not going to be the easiest to keep clean, but its a boat some I'm not really worried. I just didn't want to be like every other tracker with gray carpet.


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## huntingbronco (Apr 19, 2011)

Derek - its looking great. Question for you. On the hatches you are making in your wood deck, how will you seal them so that water won't enter the storage area under the hatch? Or do you just accept a small amount of leakage? Do you provide for drains in the storage below the hatches? Couple holes in the floor?


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## Derek (Apr 19, 2011)

The standard hatches have the lip around them to kinda keep water out. I know they will likely have some leakage and will be ok with it. Also they are open on the outer edge to the boat so water can run out there and down. If you mean the extra hatch I put in the front deck that hatch is open to the bottom of the boat and I plan to just put wet/dirty storage items in there, like the anchor, camping chairs, etc.


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## Derek (Apr 23, 2011)

I didn't get as much work done yesterday as I had hoped. The pictures don't look much different then last week, but everything you see is mounted and final. I had to pull everything out to add the foam under the floor. Everything got screwed down with stainless screws, and metal-metal connections were riveted. Hatches installed with new lid pulls. Trolling motor mounted, pedal mounted to tray, drain installed and wiring run. I also put a 50amp circuit breaker in the battery compartment.


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## Derek (May 2, 2011)

I put another day of work into the boat yesterday. Its getting so close, maybe next week it might float for the first time. The rear deck/livewell/seating area of the boat was a pain in the bum to do. Took about 4 hrs to complete that section. Im glad 99% of the carpeting is done. Only a few brackets left. You can see the rear most hatch has the carpet laid down 180* off, which is why it almost looks a different color. If I have enough carpet left I will probably re-do it.
Got the console painted, carpeted, and mounted. Also you can see the windshield which I epoxied back together, sanded and painted. It was in 2 pieces when I got the boat.I mounted it with a poly washer between the windshield and console and a rubber washer on the outside. I am hoping this will give it enough wiggle room to not break apart again.
Next weekend will be wiring and a bunch of other little things. Get the motor running and it will be water ready.


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## huntingbronco (May 2, 2011)

That is looking great. I was thinking I should throw down a challenge to see which one of us might get our boats in the water first, but I think you are a solid week or two ahead of me.


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## Derek (May 3, 2011)

Thanks, I only wish it was closer to me so I could work on it during the week, it would be done already. Next weekend I am spending the whole weekend on it. So if I can get the motor running it should be done on Sunday.


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## Turbo7 (May 3, 2011)

Derek Great job on your boat =D> I have the same boat except the motor, mine is a 60 hp. Thank You for posting your boat on here, I have learned a lot from you, The compartments and TM foot pedel comp. Black carpet looks good I think I might do that to, I hope mine turns out like yours, Maybe, I think I am going to put in a cooler compartment in the front of mine, My wife and I got hit by a barge on the Ohio River Aug-2010, It has 34 rivets leaking and 3 tears in the bottom of it, Tears are fixed, the windshield is half gone and the motor cover has holes in it from scraping the bottom of the barge, It rolled twice under the barge and ended upside down and coast guard towed it to a dock close by, ODNR kept it for a week to do a investigation on it, and got fined for $ 120 bucks for not giving the barge right of way, Got the motor looked at its ok, Its all gutted out except for the rear livewell area, looked like a lot of trouble to tear out, mine drains out the back slow, so I am not tearing it out. It was my dads boat. Derek Your boat looks real good. Thank you for posting.


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## Derek (May 4, 2011)

Glad you guys are ok. Put up a thread when you start fixing it


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## gatorglockman (May 4, 2011)

Derek,

I have been lurking this site for a little while as I ponder what I want to buy on my budget to fix up. Your post/thread made me formally join so I could comment. Well done man! I am in my 40's and remember vividly when this boat was introduced.....I wanted it as a kid sooooo bad  

Thanks for the inspiration and more importantly for the preservation of something that brings back great childhood memories for me. Nice restoration and pics. 

Every time I see an old tracker on the road being towed, etc...I stop and really get my eyes on it and give it a look. May have to take the plunge and buy an old beater tracker on the cheap and give it a mend this winter man....thx!

Gator


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## Derek (May 5, 2011)

Thanks. This boat brings back alot of memories for me as well. My father had a 1990 tracker that he bought brand new. His even had a 40 on it too. I really learned to fish on that boat. One of the other nice things with doing a rebuild is you learn everything about the boat. If you ever have a problem on the water you generally have the knowledge to fix it.


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## Derek (May 9, 2011)

Well I kicked ass on the boat this weekend. Got to spend both Saturday and Sunday on it. It is ready to fish with the exception of the 402 not running. 

I re-carpeted the rear most hatch to get the carpet grain going the right way, so it would match the rest of the boat. Took me almost an hour to re-scrape the hatch because of the contact cement. Definitely a good way to put it down.

I picked up 2 new Diehard batteries. Group 31 (largest marine deep cycle) for the trolling motor. This battery is mounted in the front left side compartment. Also a group 27 to fire the Merc and everything else in the boat. This battery is mounted in the rear hatch with the gas tank. Added aluminum angle mounts for the batteries so they can not slide anywhere.

I wired the whole boat. I added 4 switches to the console, mounted them up-top so they are protected by the windshield. Switches are for nav lights, bilge pump, livewell pump, and eventually interior lighting. I added (2) 6-circuit breaker panels and a ground bar under the console. I dont need 12 circuits yet but it leaves me room to upgrade. I used (2) 50 amp resettable breakers to protect the main wiring to the circuit panels. These are mounted, with another ground bar, in the rear compartment adjacent to the battery. I also used another to protect the trolling motor.

With the boat I got a Lowrance X96, which I wired up at the console. I also mounted that to the dash behind the windshield. I have wiring run for a front fish finder too when I get one.

Im still looking for a straight 3-pin light base for my front nav light. Livewell is fully plumbed. Seats mounted. Everything cleaned out and vacuumed.

I also added fenders, rear tie-downs and safety chains to the trailer.
Took the motor to a local welding shop to have the starter mounts welded up. The guys did a nice job and were pulling out their boat to hit the river that afternoon. I didnt get much time to look at the motor. I hooked up the battery cables and the key does nothing. Thats as far as I got. I have the factory service manual and Im going to dig into it. :banghead 

I was busy all weekend working on the boat and didn't stop to take pictures, but I will take a bunch today when we go put it in the water. Taking off around lunch to register the boat and put it in the water.


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## gatorglockman (May 9, 2011)

We need a pic of the maiden voyage post re-build bro!


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## Derek (May 9, 2011)

Took a half day off this afternoon. Steve and I took the boat out for the first trip today. Great trip we each caught a 4lber. 


 



 

Boat pics


 

 

 

 


Group 27 and group 31 batteries



Trolling motor battery set-up



Rear battery, large cables are for the merc, but not hooked up



Breaker panels and ground bar under the console



Dash for now, will get trim pieces and eventually gauges



This was my brother Dan's Fish finder, I think it just needs a new connector to work.




Great first trip, if only on the trolling motor. Gotta dig into the motor and get that running. Then still a bunch of little things to finish it.


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## gatorglockman (May 9, 2011)

=D> 

Nice pics bro...congrats. I am actively hunting for a deal on an old tracker. I love to hunt deer...so I will be exercising patience in the same manner until I find the right deal on a TX or BS III.


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## Derek (May 10, 2011)

Patience is key to finding a good deal. I searched craigslist everyday for 6-9 months. If you have a smart phone get the craigslist app. I found mine while waiting to be sat at a restaurant. Paid off to because I was the first of 12 people to email the guy that night.


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## Derek (May 12, 2011)

Got my cover in yesterday





Its a Carver Industries semi-custom fit cover. It comes with a 5 year warranty. I ordered it from discountboatcover. They were having a 20% off sale and I also got a set of 12 trailerable tie-down straps for free. (2 of which you can see in the photo)
Semi-custom fit means it is designed to fit a specific make, model, and year of boat, but not MY specific boat. It is designed to fit this boat with the pedestal fishing chairs on the decks. I put in the rear seat for storage, but I always fish standing up, therefore don't have a seat for upfront. I used fiberglass bows that I had from an old tonneau cover to hold up the front. The paper work suggest padding the windshield and trolling motor areas before installing the cover. I'm going to get some foam pipe insulation for the top of the windshield and probably throw a towel on the prop of the trolling motor.


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## Derek (May 20, 2011)

Did a few little things last night. I added a 12v outlet to the dash, can charge my phone, gps or use a spot light. Couple days ago I spliced a new connection onto the original front transducer that I had. Didn't work correctly so I pitched it. I picked up a new transducer yesterday for the front humminbird and installed it. I had to pick up a few SS screws for the front nav light mount, which I did this morning so that is ready to go on. I also picked up some brackets for mounting the fiberglass bows to hold up my cover. I mounted them last night but I'll be moving one set because I had a puddle on the cover this morning. Going fishing after work. From my office.


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## Turbo7 (May 22, 2011)

Derek, I got 2 LED lights 8 inches long light blue lights off of iboats.com 13 bucks ea. they are bright, I am going to put them under the console and under the plywood floor where your feet go that hangs over by the console. Just FYI thanks Dave


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## Derek (May 23, 2011)

I plan to do something like that with lighting for my boat. I haven't sourced lights yet. I was thinking maybe bluewater leds


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## huntingbronco (Jun 22, 2011)

If you want, I can grab some night shots of my lighting and put them up... 

What is the story with your old merc...are we having similar situations?


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## Derek (Jun 22, 2011)

I haven't got mine running yet, the wiring in mine is junk. It has great compression, but I think I'm going to need some ignition parts. I'm still on the fence to fix it or re-power. Starting to lean to re-power.


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## huntingbronco (Jun 22, 2011)

For next to nothing, I pushed back in my harness and soldered in new wires, just to see if I could make it work. That aspect of my motor does work. Don't know for how long, but I am not expecting a 1979 engine to last forever, just long enough to restore my fun money reserves. Actually, repowering looks to be a pretty substantial drop of coin.


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## Derek (Jun 22, 2011)

Replacing the wiring doesnt look hard at all, I just dont want to spend the time and even a little money if its junk anyway


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## huntingbronco (Jun 22, 2011)

FYI - I put the dual TM batteries in the front - with my two boys and myself on the water, it was a pretty wet ride. We never really got her spinning due to the motor problems, but FYI. Don't know if a heavier motor would counter that...


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## Derek (Jun 23, 2011)

On Sunday I worked on the boat all day. Looked into the motor. First I disconnected the starter and jumped it to get a compression check. 140psi top cylinder and 134psi lower cylinder. The FSM says anything within 15psi is good to go. Hooked up all the wiring again but the key does nothing. The wiring is shot, but it doesn’t look to bad to replace. Judging by the FSM I need an ignition switch and possibly the ignition control box. I’m not sure the motor is worth dumping money into. Probably going to have it looked at to determine. Otherwise I’ll be repowering.

Rigged out my tackle storage in the front compartment. Used coated wire with clamps and eye bolts. I used the eyebolts to tension the cable once installed. Holds up my tackle well. I plan to replace the cardboard boxes of plastic with rubbermade type boxes. Especially after fishing in the downpour yesterday afternoon. I did some other little things on the boat aswell.


 

 



Then I went fishing with two of my friends on Sunday evening. I boated this 2lb smallie and 3lb largie.


 



Going back to fishing in the downpour yesterday. I need to figure out how I can seal the compartments from water. Especially the front ones as I use one for tackle storage. Not that its really going to hurt my tackle but all the stuff got soaked. Anyone have an idea for a seal?


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## huntingbronco (Jun 23, 2011)

I generally don't think it is possible to have "dry" storage on a boat, especially if the bottom of the storage space is open to the bottom of the boat. However, my war eagle has a bench seat, the lid of which completely wraps over the top of the sides. It is not possible to get a boat wetter than we do, short of sinking it and the contents of that box are DRY. It is a full aluminum box, bottom, sides with hinged top that extends over the sides on at least three sides, I'd have to look at how it is hinged. It is a piano of some sort.


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## Derek (Jul 18, 2011)

I did a little work on the boat saturday. I wanted to re-mount the rear battery to make it easier to access. Just slide it back so I can pick straight up through the rear hatch.
The edge of the front deck where you step down onto the floor had already begin bowing. Originally there was space under the front deck on the floor of the boat. So the Plywood was spanning about 1/2 width of the boat unsupported. See picture. Not good for my heavy ass.



To remedy this I could have braced it with aluminum angle, but then I would have had to look at it. So I moved the wall of the hatch out just shy of the end of the deck. I also added a brace under the deck running parallel with the gunnel. It is rock solid now, and I have more interior compartment space.


 



I also have something else up my sleeve, or should I say, in my garage. :mrgreen: Working on the boat again later today.


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## Derek (Jul 19, 2011)

1977 Johnson 70hp :mrgreen: 
Picked it up over the weekend. Plugs looked brand new. Lower unit oil looked new. Good compression. Supposedly it had been winterized before being stored. I ran it on a stand before I bought it. It ran mint. The water coming out was as cold as the hose going in.

Finally got it mounted up yesterday. Ran all the cables, wires and fuel lines. We finally got finished and brought it to the lake. It would start but not stay running unless the high idle/start lever was pulled up. I am guessing in transportation home I dislodged a bunch of crud in the carbs. So I am going to start by cleaning them. Most likely Ill get a rebuild kit for the carbs since I will have it apart. I am also going to get an inline fuel filter. What else would you suggest looking at?


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## Flatbotm (Jul 19, 2011)

Sounds like a carb issue to me. I had one doing the same thing I ran it in the bucket 3 or 4 times for about 5 to 10 minutes. It must have been some small deposits or varnish because it cleaned itself and started idling down. How long did you run it for? Does yours have the mixture adjustment? Your boat should haul with a 70!


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## fish2keel (Jul 20, 2011)

Is that 70 at the head of the prop? Not saying it wont haul but im just curious! If it really is 70 at the prop its going to be boogy but i got a feeling its that at the head so its going to loose some power at the prop


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## Derek (Jul 21, 2011)

This motor would be rated at the powerhead.

Before I bought it the motor ran for a solid 20 minutes on muffs. It sat at idle for atleast 10 of those minutes. I plan to pull the carbs out and clean them today. I am not sure on the mixture adjustment on this motor. Still getting to know the old girl. Been looking for a FSM for it.


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## Derek (Aug 2, 2011)

A little update on the motor and boat. I did pull all the carbs and cleaned them out. I replaced the fuel lines as well. After that the motor fired right up. The motor runs awesome, starts right up every time. It will run 34 by myself and 33 with 2 people. The prop is not in great shape from the previous owner, so that is significantly hurting the performance. I suspect to be in the mid 40's once I re-prop the boat.

Last weekend I made a 618 mile round trip to Maine for some fishing. The "pond" was 7.5 miles long and we did a lot of running around. I ran 17 gallons of fuel through it this weekend. No problems. I am very pleased with the motor.


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## Flatbotm (Aug 2, 2011)

That's great Derek. I was hoping it was carb related. Your boat looks like it sits real nice in the water. 40 plus mph your boat should be just barely touching the water.


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## Derek (Aug 2, 2011)

right now, even with 2 guys, only from the seats back touches the water


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## Derek (Aug 11, 2011)

Found a used Raker prop for the motor to replace the banged up aluminum one. Its a high performance stainless prop. Slightly larger with an inch more pitch and cupped blades. Should plane quicker and get more topend speed. Hopefully ill have it in next week.


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## clarego (Aug 16, 2011)

same boat maybe a little restore as im going to only own a couple of years. so the aluminum capartment left of the steering column was original made for a battery >? or is it the smart thing to do im a hefty guy myself and this would solve alot of issues with the tanks and motor in the rear. mine looks avg pics to come as soon as this monsoon leaves Central PA


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## Derek (Aug 16, 2011)

Originally both batteries were mounted in the rear, but they were also smaller batteries then I run in my boat. I moved one battery up front, thinking it would help it get on plane faster. 
Currently I have mine set-up with a 12-gal tank (pass side) and a group 27 battery (drivers side) in the rear compartment. Then the group 31 battery in the pass side compartment up front. With a full tank of fuel and just me the boat sits fairly level side to side. 
With another guy my size the boat will list to the pass side, but doesn't seem to make much difference at speed (-1 mph), just a larger wake. 
I also have a 6 gallon fuel tank I can add into the rear compartment for when I need more fuel capacity.


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## Derek (Aug 18, 2011)

Got the prop in yesterday. 13.5x18 Raker. Obviously I had to run to the garage and put it on so I could test it. The results are the boat is quicker but not much faster. It jumps right on plane almost instantly, but I only got 35mph out of it. I also played around with the trim a bit. I don't have power trim but I can adjust the pin on the motor. I have been running it with the motor all the way down. I tried moving it up and on the next hole the boat porpoises bad. Any ideas? I want to set it up with power trim and possibly a jack plate at some point. That will come later.


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## Cubman (Aug 18, 2011)

Do you have a tach on your motor? I am inclined to say your motor doesn't have enough power to pull 18" of pitch, but there is no way to tell without knowing what RPM you are running wide open.


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## Derek (Aug 19, 2011)

I do not have a tach yet. Gauges are one of the next few things to be added to the boat. This motor came originally with a 13.25x17 aluminum prop. Stepping up to 13.5x18 does seem like a big stretch. I chose it based upon a prop shops recommendation.


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## clarego (Aug 19, 2011)

hey bud 
got some pics up 
got any tips let me know 
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=21590&p=220322#p220322


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## clarego (Aug 30, 2011)

got tachs none of them work expect for the battery and rpms :shock:


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## Derek (Aug 30, 2011)

huh? :| 


Took the boat out yesterday to a fairly large lake, which gave me lots of room for running. The boat porpoises sometimes, not violently but enough to be a pain. It usually only happens when I am alone, some times with another person. I wanted to move around my trolling motor battery to see what affect it had on the porpoising. Right now it is mounted in the front left compartment, forward of the console. I put it mid boat where the passengers feet would be and then in the rear compartment with the other battery and the gas tank. The further back I moved it the worse the porpoising got.


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## clarego (Aug 30, 2011)

Gauges i meant sorry


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## clarego (Aug 30, 2011)

Derek said:


> huh? :|
> 
> 
> Took the boat out yesterday to a fairly large lake, which gave me lots of room for running. The boat porpoises sometimes, not violently but enough to be a pain. It usually only happens when I am alone, some times with another person. I wanted to move around my trolling motor battery to see what affect it had on the porpoising. Right now it is mounted in the front left compartment, forward of the console. I put it mid boat where the passengers feet would be and then in the rear compartment with the other battery and the gas tank. The further back I moved it the worse the porpoising got.



i know what you mean lol 3 battery's (+12 gallons of gas) in the rear is not fun i got her planned and felt like the boat was going to tip i dont know if it was because i was new to it but sure scared the dickens out of me. the steering wheel seems to not be as tight as soon as i get a plane either you ever seen anyone tip a boat backwards ? i know i got more weight on the rear then you do im in the center console close to 285 and a skinny dude right next to me about 180 at the most. i would like to get a new trolling motor 12v only. mine is 24v


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## Flatbotm (Aug 30, 2011)

Hey Derek you have anything heavy you can move to the front? Or what about a hydrofoil whale tale for the motor? You might have to take a sandbag with you next time just to see where she likes the weight.


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## Derek (Aug 30, 2011)

I have 2 batteries and 12 gallon tank. One battery (group 27 ~57lbs) for the gas motor and the 12 gallons of fuel (~72lbs when full) are in the rear most compartment. One battery (group 31 ~64lbs) for the trolling motor is in the front left compartment. I also have my tackle up front too. Which is the next heaviest thing in the boat, well other then myself :roll: . Nothing else is really "heavy".
Biggest problem with moving the other battery forward is it would require me to re-wire alot of my boat. I would also have to pull my boat apart to get the gas tank up front.
Would a hydrofoil help with porpoising? I have no problem getting on plane, which is what I though the purpose of a hydrofoil was. It porpoises after I'm on plane.


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## Flatbotm (Aug 30, 2011)

They claim to help with porposing but I don't know from experience. One came on my 35 hp rude so I'm going to try it with and without to see what the effects are.


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## mmf (Aug 30, 2011)

Darek, they will help with porposing but everyone of them I have put on, I lost some top end speed......


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## Smokey496 (Aug 31, 2011)

Lpp


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## clarego (Sep 2, 2011)

still considering moving the batterys up front. i know i have to play with all the wiring if i want them gauges to work. i think this will be a winter project for sure :wink:


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## Derek (Sep 9, 2011)

The porpoising goes away with a person sitting on the front deck, so I'm thinking I need to move more weight forward. I'm wondering if moving the trolling motor battery to under the front deck will help enough. Biggest problem with that is I currently need to remove the battery to charge it. So easy access is a must.

Also installed a radio in the boat. A friend gave me an old car CD player he had laying around in his garage. I made 2 simple angle brackets and mounted the unit under my console out of the weather. Picked up a set of 6.5" marine speakers by Boss. I mounted them under the seats facing into the floor area of the boat, they sound great. Also picked up a universal antenna from the parts store. I didn't want anything sticking up to get my lures caught on. But I found that the radio came in almost as clearly with the antenna laying on the deck. I currently have it just tucked in along the outside of the console and extending under my motor controls. Receives signal with no problems.


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## Jonboat Jerry (Sep 9, 2011)

Nice ride Derek, sleek lines, very good work. =D> 
The salvage work on the windshield was creative too.
If you have space under the console, an antenna can be mounted upside down as well.


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## Derek (Sep 9, 2011)

Thanks Jerry. Good to know I could mount it upside down. I would have to cut it shorter tho as my console is not very tall.


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## clarego (Oct 20, 2011)

starting to run into issues first i need to get my tracker in to get winterize it will be stored in a unheated garage, second im loosing pressure my outboard slowly creeps down when using just the trolling motor. my rpm's show on the dash(thats it). anyone know where to start looking for wiring problems ? should i winterize it myself or take it to the garage for almost 100 bucks ? it gets cold here in pa so im not sure if i need to antifreeze it 
any help would be well appreciated 
thanks


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## Derek (Oct 20, 2011)

Its getting close to time to winterize mine as well. I also store mine in an unheated/uninsulated garage. I plan to run the motor out of fuel and fog the carbs and the cylinders. Make sure to drain all the water out of it. You shouldn't need antifreeze if you make sure to drain the water. Replace the lower unit oil. Stabilize the fuel. I will also be pulling mine off the boat this winter so I have a motor stand. You don't want to lay the motor down in the winter.


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## mmf (Oct 22, 2011)

About winterization, when I worked for a marine dealer and our training on Mercury outboards, we did this when storing an outboard, add stabil to the gas tank and ran motor till warm, then unplugged the fuel line to empty the carb bowls, when the motor started to speed up (running lean) right before the gas runs out, we fogged the crap out of the carbs. When the motor stops, the motor was tilted up and when cooled, removed the spark plugs and added 1 tablespoon outboard motor oil per cylinder and rotated the flywheel by hand to distribute the oil. After this gearcase was drained and refilled and NEW gaskets put on the vent and fill screws (most owners DO NOT do this). Then we greased the entire outboard especially the tilt tube, pivot, and linkages, then the motor was tilted back down to a verticle position. Small pockets of water can be trapped in the powerhead etc if the motor is not verticle. DO NOT, especially on a boat left OUTSIDE, tilt the motor up during the winter!


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## Derek (Jan 18, 2012)

Well its that time of year again. Going to be going through the boat this winter to do some things I wish I had done last year, and some new things that have come up. First order of business is to get the hull solid and leak free. I have a couple areas on the boat where small stress cracks have started forming from the rivet holes. I plan to have these cracks welded up.

2 weeks ago I pulled most of the boat apart. Disconnected all the wiring, everything was plugs/connectors. Pulled the console out, then portions of the front deck and compartments. Lastly the floor and foam underneath. Disconnected the motor and removed the trolling motor.

Last weekend we pulled the motor off, put it on the stand for some maintenance this winter. We then flipped the boat so I could inspect for cracks. My father and I then re-bucked every rivet we could get to.







Plans for the winter:
- Get the hull welded (still have to find who I am going to have do it)
- Steelflex the bottom of the hull to seal it all up. I'm thinking black steelflex
- Remove decals and paint the upper half of the boat. Still undecided on color.
- Maintenance on Johnson 70hp
- tach and other gauges for the motor
- New seating
- rerun some wiring, add interior lighting
- New springs/mounts and new bunks for the trailer
- on the wish list is power tilt/trim


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## mmf (Jan 18, 2012)

Good luck on your updates and repairs brother!


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## got2fish (Jan 19, 2012)

Wow, good looking build. I was just wondering, with everything included, how much did it cost you to rebuild this? I am planning on purchasing this type of boat and restoring it like you did. Let me know. Thanks.


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## clarego (Feb 22, 2012)

i did follow your suggestions mmf and sorry about the delays its getting close to get her out and fire her up again maybe start looking into some modification. for one move some weight up front 2 i like the idea of getting it alumnium weld all over i may have a place just going to be a problem with the cash now


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## Derek (Mar 5, 2012)

Sanding and decal removal is going slow, making it slower is the boat is stored about 1:20 away from me during the winter. Took me 2.5 hrs to remove the tracker decal down one side. ](*,) More sanding was done also. Steelflex and hopefully paint within 2 weeks is my goal.


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## Derek (Mar 19, 2012)

Well I did not get as much as I wanted done this weekend, for multiple reasons. Anyway my cousin sprayed the sides of the boat Friday night. Etching primer, sealer, paint and 2 coats of clear. Painted to match my Dodge. I have the boat taped off and the bottom prepared for the steel flex. Hopefully I can do it this coming week.


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## fool4fish1226 (Mar 19, 2012)

Thats a nice paint job =D>


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## dyeguy1212 (Mar 19, 2012)

Nice! Lets see some more pictures of the paint job!


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## Derek (Mar 19, 2012)

That is the only one I took. I will take more when i do the steel flex


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## Derek (Mar 26, 2012)

Steelflex is complete, well for now. I did the whole bottom and the lower section of the transom. I pulled the tape when I was done and it ran on the transom bad. I will touch that up at some point when the boat is flipped back over. Aside from the transom it went fairly well and covered well. I couldn't get good picture, so this will have to do till I can get it out of the garage.


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## Loggerhead Mike (Mar 26, 2012)

Looks good bud.

Is the empty hull light enough for 2 people to move/flip?

Wanting to paint mine this comming winter


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## Derek (Mar 26, 2012)

No way. Mine still has 4' of front deck still in it and the whole rear deck in it, so its heavier but still. Now if it was bare 2 can flip it over in the grass, but going to need 4 guys to carry/flip it without putting it down (like when just painted). I used large straps to make slings and hang it from the garage, rolled it over in the slings then set it back on the trailer.


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## Derek (Mar 29, 2012)

My plan is to be back on the water at some point this weekend. I was able to make up brandy new bunks for my trailer last night. They will go on the trailer before I put the boat back on. I also picked up a new impeller for the motor. I'll give it a face lift at some point, right now I just want to fish.


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## Derek (Apr 3, 2012)

Well I busted my ass to get the boat back together this weekend. New impeller installed in the motor and everything is working as it did last year when I took it apart. I was even able to get out fishing Sunday and picked up 6 slim darts. Going out today and Ill snap a few pictures.


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## Derek (Apr 9, 2012)

Well Ive had it out a couple times and everytime I'm on the water I forget to take a picture. Its pretty easy to see why I picked the color.











Boated this 4+pounder friday afternoon.


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## userspam (Jun 7, 2012)

Derek, 
I have the same exact boat and am planning a similar rebuild next season. What did you replace the foam with under the front walking area?


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## Derek (Jun 8, 2012)

I left the majority of the original foam up front. I only took out the last 1.5' before the wall.


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## userspam (Jun 8, 2012)

Why did you remove just the last 1.5' ? Also what did you replace the back with? 


Also i would just like to thank you on this post as it will be a HUGE help this upcoming winter. My trailer as well is rotting out!


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## Derek (Jun 8, 2012)

that portion was waterlogged. the front section was still dry so I left it.
The rear sections I used closed cell foam board that I cut and fit into the space.


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## userspam (Jun 10, 2012)

Derek maybe you can help me or someone else. 

I currently have a powerdrive v2 40lb and a 6 gallon tank. I am upgrading to a 12 gallon tank. as for the trolling motor i wanted to add a terrova 80 (which as i'm sure you know is 24volt)..but i'm worried about carrying 4 batteries in the back with 12 gallon tank, i feel as if that is to much with the 40hp Force motor back there. I was thinking about adding compartments in the front to carry the 4 new batteries as there is plenty of room to work with as i do not use the rod holders. They are Interstate 29's and weigh in at roughly 62lbs PER battery so this would be an additional 248lbs in the front. Is this a major problem? I'm not sure if weight in the front matters or what. I also considered the terrova 55lb which would reduce me down to 2 batteries in the front. Or if i went with the 12volt 55lb I could keep the 2 batteries in the rear compartment. What would you do? If anyone has any idea's/suggestions that would be excellent!

Thank you in advance

John


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## Derek (Jun 11, 2012)

I actually just went through this. I have had a 12gal tank in the back, fits great but uses 1/2 the space in that compartment. I used to run a 12v motor with the battery upfront in the pass side compartment. I now have a MG pro 75lb thrust 24v motor. I was able to fit 3 batteries (2-G31s and 1-G27) plus the 12 gallon tank in the back. There is not a ton of room left but I would think you could fit a 4th back there. Why do you need 4 batteries? 
Due to my boat storage area I need to be able to pull my batteries out to charge them. So I had to use the rear compartment for ease of access. This caused porpoising issues even with my 70hp due to weight not being evenly distributed. There is just too much weight in the rear. I would love to install my 2-G31 batteries under the front deck. When I am able to plug the boat in I will likely install an on-board charger and move those batteries forward to more evenly weight the boat. Until then the hydro-foil I installed on the motor solves the porpoising issue.


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## Derek (Jun 11, 2012)

Here is a little update on my boat, work has picked up and now I don't have as much free time online. But I am still fishing and working on the boat.

As I spoke about above, I picked up a Motor Guide Pro Series 75lb thrust 24v trolling motor. This thing has some serous power. My old 40lb motor seems like a toy in comparison. Since I need to be able to pull the batteries to charge them I utilized the rear compartment. I now have (2) group 31 batteries and (1) group 27 for cranking the motor. All new wiring was run for the 24v system. Works awesome.

All this weight in the rear of the boat caused porpoising issues. The boat is just too heavy in the rear. I solved that issue for now with a hydro-foil. It has completely got rid of it, boat planes out nicely. I lost 2 mph top speed, but I can live with that. When I have a place to plug the boat in during storage I will install a on-board charger and move the batteries under the front deck. I should be able to remove the hydro-foil and regain the speed back.

I installed red interior LED lighting. I put a 12" bar under the dash and one under the lip below the seats. I also built a little angle bracket for a 6" one on the rear deck. Also put a 6" strip under my trolling motor pedal. All the LEDs point down and do not shine in you eyes while fishing. They give minimal light on the decking and tons of light in the bottom of the boat, which is just what I wanted.

2 weeks ago I was taking my father fishing on the Conn river. Going through some road construction I hit a bump and heard something on the trailer break. Ended up being the D-side spring. It snapped from the center pin rearward. I was pissed but determined to go fishing. I ended up temporarily "fixing" it with a chunk of 2x4 and a couple ratchet straps. Drove to the ramp, launched the boat and then the 30 min drive home afterwards and the axle didn't budge. Time for some trailer work.

So I spent this last weekend repairing/rebuilding my trailer. The trailer had the adjustable brackets for axle position, just held on by 2 U-bolts per side. Also the springs were not a standard length slipper trailer spring. Kinda stupid IMO so I ditched it all together. I bought all new mounts and springs. Also went to a double eye spring instead of a slipper style. Moved the axle 10" more rearward. Welded on the new mounts and bolted everything up. Tows great and straight as an arrow. I built all new fender mounts and made them nice and stout. The front mount has a triangular portion where I will put a carpeted step. I also built a spare tire carrier up front, so I can get the trailer spare out of the back of my truck. Now I have to decide how I want to refinish the trailer, new parts just have primer for now.


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## userspam (Jun 11, 2012)

My problem around here is a lot of lakes you can only use a trolling motor so having just two batteries for a 24 volt just is not enough. Need backups..

My batteries are plently for starting the little 40hp to so i do not need a starting battery. Would 4 29's be to much for the front? Any ideas?!?


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## userspam (Jun 11, 2012)

Also..I wanted to keep them semi close for an onboard charger..


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## Derek (Jun 11, 2012)

Have you actually worn out (2) batteries on a 24v system? I fished 6hrs with trolling motor only and my batteries were still at 80% so said my charger. I would think 4 up front would work, but never tried that much weight up there.


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## userspam (Jun 11, 2012)

I think what you are saying is what I should do..stick to two onboard trolling batteries..i can always keep an extra set in the car if i'm camping out for a full weekend.

I think im gonna add alot of storage out front as the rod holders are useless for 7' poles. Probably gonna run my starting battery out of the drivers side front as my trolling batteries are in the back left. 

What was under the foam in the front?

Thanks, 

John


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## Derek (Jun 12, 2012)

I would think the boat would get on plane alot easier without the extra 100+ lbs. 
Under the foam up front is just the boat hull, has ribs that run diagonally forward with the shape of the bow. Ya the rod holders were useless to me as well. Boat has more storage now without them.

If you go back to the 2nd post in this thread there is a picture


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## userspam (Jul 18, 2012)

hey derek, could you give me a rough estimate on how much carpet i will be needing to recarpet the entire boat?


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## Derek (Jul 18, 2012)

8'-6" x 25'-0" was the size of the roll I got and I used ALL of it aside from the scraps


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## Gators5220 (Nov 12, 2012)

Man that sucker must fly!


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## userspam (Feb 6, 2013)

Derek are the speakers for 5.25 or 6.5?


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## Derek (Feb 6, 2013)

userspam said:


> Derek are the speakers for 5.25 or 6.5?



The speakers are 6.5" however with the 3/4" floor I had to mount the speaker from the inside of the underseat compartment and the grills are a little off from center


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## userspam (Feb 6, 2013)

thanks for the input. I finally got mine gutted and this weekends plan is to find the leak. I didnt get the rear ripped apart as you did but got the front. Any recommendations on type of brush and chemicals to use to clean up the mold inside the boat? and any recommendations one what to clean under the boat with before applying epoxy?


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## Derek (Feb 6, 2013)

I just used purple power cleaner with a bit of bleach mixed in to clean out the inside.
The prep for the epoxy sucked. We sanded the entire boat and it took forever. Then I just cleaned it with acetone.


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## userspam (Feb 27, 2013)

Any suggestions on flipping the the boat to repair cracks? I see you managed to pull it off.


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## Derek (Feb 28, 2013)

I made lifting points that span multiple rafters in the garage. I lifted it off the trailer with straps (not the dinky ones) and hung it from the rafters in the garage. The straps were like slings so I was able flip the boat within them. First time I did it with 2 other guys. Second time I managed to do it myself with creative rigging and a chain hoist. 
I do have this picture from the process.


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## userspam (Feb 28, 2013)

Yeah I dont have the resources for this. How many guys would you estimate it would take me to lift off the trailer, flip onto a tarp and after repair flip and return to trailer?

Help is always appreciated!


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## Derek (Feb 28, 2013)

userspam said:


> Yeah I dont have the resources for this. How many guys would you estimate it would take me to lift off the trailer, flip onto a tarp and after repair flip and return to trailer?
> 
> Help is always appreciated!



Is it gutted? If gutted I would say 4 strong guys.


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## userspam (Feb 28, 2013)

It's gutted but the frame is still in on the front and the console+seats are also still intact in the rear.


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## Derek (Mar 25, 2013)

I'm ready to break out of hibernation, I can't wait to get the boat on the water. I went and did a couple things I had wanted to do last year and never got around to.

I moved my (2) group 31 batteries for the trolling motor up front. One got put back into the port side compartment in the rear of the front deck. The other I put in the starboard compartment in the front of the front deck. Rewired everything and installed the 50A breaker in port compartment. I moved the batteries forward to try to get better weight distribution. When I added the 24v trolling motor and went to 3 batteries in the back I had to add a hydrofoil to the motor. I hoping with this new distribution I can ditch the hydrofoil and get some of the lost speed back.

I also installed an auto float switch for the bilge pump. I wired it into the existing wiring so either the float or my dash switch will turn it on.

I can't believe how dirty I stored the boat. I vacuumed it out. The scum line is horrible, hopefully the Connecticut River will clean it off next weekend. haha I need only battery hold down straps and a new fuel tank fitting for next Saturday.


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## userspam (Mar 25, 2013)

Any recommendations on the float switch? I am interested also.


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## Derek (Mar 25, 2013)

I used a Rule brand switch that I picked up at BassPro. I didn't take any pictures, but I mounted it on the starboard side adjacent to the live well pump. Mount it with the hinge forward and float facing back. I used epoxy to mount the base to the bottom of the boat. I tapped power off my 50A breaker in the rear of the boat and installed a 10A inline fuse. Then I soldered it into the existing wiring for the bilge pump. If your still putting the boat together and do not already have a bilge I'd just get a bilge pump with the float built in.


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## userspam (Mar 25, 2013)

Mines already in with a pump installed


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## userspam (Apr 4, 2013)

My cabelas cover recently ripped. How is that cover from discountboatcover.com holding up?

Any recommendations?


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## Derek (Apr 4, 2013)

My boat is stored inside during the winter so I do not have to worry about snow/ice. It does sit outside from April-November.
Cover has been great. It is a trailerable cover but I have only towed with it a couple times. 
I park the boat in a dirt lot that creates a lot of dust. The cover is filthy and could use a wash. But it keeps the inside of the boat mostly dust free.
I don't keep a front fishing seat in the boat so I use fiberglass bows for pontoon boat covers. I think it is better for the cover, less edges to wear on. I still use a rear seat to hold the cover up but may replace that this year as it rarely gets used while fishing.


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## Derek (Apr 18, 2013)

So I took the boat out yesterday to do some testing with/without the hydrofoil. 
For reference 77 Johnson 70hp with 13.5x18 stainless Raker prop. It should have 5500 rpm @ WOT

- with hydrofoil: 32mph at 4700 rpm
- without hydrofoil: 35mph at 5100 rpm

Problem is the boat is still porpoises somewhat while I am by myself without the hydrofoil. That is with the (2) group 31 batteries moved forward. I can move my rear cranking battery (group 29) about a foot forward, but I'm not sure that will help much.


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## Duckmagnet (Jun 9, 2013)

I have the same boat with the same stress cracks around the rivets. I was wondering if you ended up getting them welded? or if you just used the steel flex. And if so how is the steel flex holding up?
Thanks


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## Derek (Jun 10, 2013)

I had them all welded up. I had a welding shop do it as I have no experience welding aluminum. They just tig'd around and over the rivets and along the cracks. The welding was nicely done. The steel flex is holding up well on the bottom of the boat. I do still get some leaking, but not enough to worry about. I think it is coming from the keel riveted down the middle


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## Duckmagnet (Jun 16, 2013)

Thanks, I have been trying to figure out what I was gonna do with the cracks. I have been told several different things so I wanted to know what someone with the same issue did.


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## userspam (Feb 25, 2015)

What did you do with your bilge? I am unable to find anything that will fit in the stock casing.


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## Derek (Feb 26, 2015)

Replaced it completely. Mine now has a 1000 gph The Rule pump. I have it wired on an automatic float switch and also an override switch on the dash.


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## userspam (Feb 26, 2015)

Did you just weld a new one? Or did you make your own thing?


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## Derek (Feb 26, 2015)

Do you mean the outlet on the back? If so mine was 2 piece plastic so I just replaced it with one that fit my bilge hose


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## userspam (Feb 26, 2015)

I meant did you completely remove the stock bilge and put the new one on that old base or did you put it on the side and make your own base for it?


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## Derek (Feb 26, 2015)

Mine had no mount when I got it.
New one came with a new mount that I epoxied to the bottom


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## userspam (Feb 26, 2015)

That was my question. Thanks man!!


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## JMill (Feb 26, 2015)

Derek, bud do you have any close up pictures of how you carpeted your deck lids? I'm wondering what to do with the piano hinges. The carpet I'm tearing out is completely deteriorated and I can't make out how they had it in there. Did you wrap the hinge and lid with one piece so that it bunches up when you open it or is there a better way? Thanks


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## Derek (Feb 26, 2015)

I took all my lids off and carpeted them separately. Drill out the boat side rivets on the hinge, so the hinge is still attached to the lid .
Cover the lid with a little flap covering the hinge. When you rivet it back on that flap is now held down with the rivet, between the hinge and deck.

Important tip, make sure the grain of your carpet is all going the same way. On the deck and lids. Otherwise the color/grain will look off, see below.

Lids backwards





Correct with the grain


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## JMill (Feb 26, 2015)

That's kind of how I thought it was on there. My carpet had been worn so much on top of the hinges that it was separated into two pieces, so I really couldn't tell. What kind of carpet did you use? I just got mine in from basscat and it's the 24oz, I believe I'm going to fight it being that thick. But it'll sure be nice on the bare feet! Haha!


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## Derek (Feb 27, 2015)

I don't remember the brand of carpet I got but it was thicker then standard. It makes the hatches hard to open at times but not to bad. 
If I were to do it over again I would add the anti-fatigue padding under the carpet on the front deck, like the newer boats have. Similar to https://www.protechmats.com/


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## reward77 (Mar 14, 2015)

Derek,

Great info, so appreciate all the posts! Quick question: I have an '89 Tracker and I'm staring at the riveted maze that is the rear deck and wondering how much trouble it is to get out. I'm concerned I have drainage issues under the rear deck due to foam blocking channels as others have suggested. Any words of wisdom on how to efficiently get access to the floor under the rear deck by taking as little apart as possible? I notice some of the pieces are riveted to the side of the boat also.

Thanks,
Rob


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## Derek (Mar 15, 2015)

Rob unfortunately there isn't really a short cut. To get to the foam underneath you really have to take it all apart. Seating area and livewell can stay but otherwise its all holding down the floor of the battery/gas compartment


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## Dishconnect06 (Mar 23, 2015)

Derek I'm starting on mine today so I may have questions for you shortly if you don't mind


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