# Bunk/Roller Trailer Question



## jrhals (Jun 6, 2016)

I bought this 1959 Bunk/Roller boat trailer from a friend of mine, and I plan to do a lot a work on it before I start to use it again. My first concern is the rollers. They appear to be an odd length because I haven't seen rollers this long in today's stores/websites. I think the rollers were black rubber rollers that were painted white but are now dry rotted and I would like to replace them but I don't know where I can find them? I'm also interested in any other upgrade suggestions anyone may have. Other upgrades I'm considering:
Paint Job
Fulton F2 Jack
Fulton F2 Winch
Fulton bearing protectors
Wheel bearing protector covers
Boat Buckles
CE Smith Smith Boat Guides
LED Trailer Guide-On Kit
LED Running Lights and Clearing Lights
Attached are pictures of the trailer


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## BigTerp (Jun 7, 2016)

Not sure exactly what type of rollers those are, but this looks like it would work for your 12" one if the shaft size matches. 

https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Boat_Trailer_Parts-sf-Roller_and_Bunk_Parts-pt-Rollers-tw-12_Inch_Long-pc-Side_Guide_Roller.aspx

Not sure what the size of your other rollers are, but eTrailer has different sizes of the side guide rollers I linked above.

The center roller on the back of your trailer is a keel roller, I believe. You can find those here. https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Boat_Trailer_Parts-sf-Roller_and_Bunk_Parts-pt-Rollers-pc-Keel_Roller.aspx

You'd probably need new shafts and pal nuts along with the new rollers. I haven't found a way to reuse pal nuts, and not really sure there is a way. If the shafts aren't all rusted up you could probably reuse the ones already on there though.

https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Boat_Trailer_Parts-sz-Roller_Shaft.aspx

I've ordered stuff from Etrailer off and on for my trailer and have been very happy with them. They always seem to have what I need.

One of the best upgrades I made to my trailer was LED lights. I no longer worry with unhooking the lights when putting the trailer in the water. With my old set I went through many bulbs due to either forgetting to unhook the lights, water in the housings or hot lights into cold water. No issues since installing LEDs. Plus, they are WAY brighter than incandescents. I also ran all new wiring and a dedicated ground to each light. I'd recommend doing that while you are at it. I ordered mine off of eBay.

I haven't had to mess with any other of the items on your list with my trailer. But I'm sure someone else will answer those questions for you.


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## ProduceMan (Jun 8, 2016)

Seems like a helluva lot of rollers unless your boat weighs a lot. I'd simplify it by only keeping the aft outboard rollers and bunking it as far forward as needed to support the hull. The keel roller in the back could be kept along with the middle narrow one. Maybe add another up towards the bow. Might cost the same as replacing what you have now, but less maintenance down the line.


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## richg99 (Jun 8, 2016)

Other than keel rollers, I would not want rollers on an aluminum hull. Replace them with non-treated wood bunks. You can cap the wood with a 3x4 plastic gutter, cut in half. She'll slide off like you had greased the boards. Here is a LINK to that process. richg99

https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=40137


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## DaleH (Jun 8, 2016)

richg99 said:


> Other than keel rollers, I would not want rollers on an aluminum hull. Replace them with non-treated wood bunks. *You can cap the wood with a 3x4 plastic gutter, cut in half. * She'll slide off like you had greased the boards.


Awesome idea =D> Rich! I need to upgrade my trailer bunks this season and that will do it!


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## BigTerp (Jun 8, 2016)

DaleH said:


> richg99 said:
> 
> 
> > Other than keel rollers, I would not want rollers on an aluminum hull. Replace them with non-treated wood bunks. *You can cap the wood with a 3x4 plastic gutter, cut in half. * She'll slide off like you had greased the boards.
> ...



I'm in need of redoing my bunks as well. Any need to carpet the 2x4's if I cap them with the vinyl gutter?


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## richg99 (Jun 8, 2016)

Since the bunks that I capped already had brand new carpet, I did not remove it. Other than providing some cushioning under the gutters, I don't see that carpeting is necessary. 

I've now launched and recovered something like 30 or more times and all is well. 

I did think about reinforcing the gutters where the screws go through, but haven't done so yet. Rich


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## BigTerp (Jun 9, 2016)

richg99 said:


> Since the bunks that I capped already had brand new carpet, I did not remove it. Other than providing some cushioning under the gutters, I don't see that carpeting is necessary.
> 
> I've now launched and recovered something like 30 or more times and all is well.
> 
> I did think about reinforcing the gutters where the screws go through, but haven't done so yet. Rich



Makes sense.

How were you planning on reinforcing the gutters? I'm thinking something like construction adhesive between the gutter and board and then stainless screws on the sides with appropriate washers. Or maybe just the screws and washers would be enough? My boat is fairly light.

How slick do these make your bunks? If I'm fishing/hunting with someone else, I have them back me in the water at a moderate pace and then hit the breaks. Dumps the boat right off the trailer. But when I'm alone is when I have issues getting the boat off. Not terrible, but enough I need to stand on the boat rocking my body weight back and forth or using an oar to finally get the boat to release from the trailer.


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## richg99 (Jun 9, 2016)

Reinforcement? My thought was to double up on the area where the screws penetrate with some folded aluminum scrap. Really, the reinforcement could be doubled-over plastic sheeting or just about anything to add some bulk and stiffness to the fastening point. 

The gutters are made out of very thin material. They work great, and I haven't seen any cracking or problems, but.....when I get some time...( I say that often!!)..I am going to pull out the present stainless screws and washers, slip the scraps of aluminum or plastic under, and refasten the screws.

How slick are they?... Well, I back down to the ramp so that the boat is hanging over the water a bit; THEN unfasten the strap; back down another few feet; hit the brake...and she just slides right off. I doubt that you will have to get out and jump or jiggle the boat ever again. Since I launch by myself 99% of the time, I use a verrrry long painter/rope. I tie it onto my trailer and the boat just floats out easily. I get out of the vehicle; grab the painter, and haul her to the dock. 

Just don't loosen the strap too soon. You might be hauling your hull off of the ramp's concrete.

Where these slicks ( or any slicks) stand out is in recovering the boat. Previously, I had to lower the trailer in further than I wanted to; drive the boat hard up...and, most of the time, still strain the heck out of my 76-year-old back cranking her up the last few inches. No more. With the slicks, I usually hit the mark with half power. If I am not all of the way up, cranking the last few inches is no longer a back-breaking endeavor. 

I like them!

Ha Ha richg99


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## BigTerp (Jun 10, 2016)

Thanks Rich!! I'm definitely going this route. Seems like a win/win. Will end up being cheaper than carpeting new bunks, plus it will be slicker. If for whatever reason things don't work out I can always pull them and install carpet and only be out $12 for the downspout.


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## jrhals (Jun 25, 2016)

Thank You for your suggestions! I'm anxious to get started. Of course then theirs the honey do's I have to do first. Ha!


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## jrhals (Jun 25, 2016)

Another question I have is most bunks I have seen are mounted with the 4" face up. Mine are mounted with the short edge 2" up which seems a bit odd. Would it be better to change mine to the standard 4" face up? I'm thinking the wider surface can provide better support.


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## richg99 (Jun 25, 2016)

I previously owned a 16 ft Lowe. It had the same "vertical" supports. I never changed it since it had been that way for over 20 years prior to my purchasing the boat. I agree that a wider surface looks like it would be preferable. However, the vertical bunks are stiffer that horizontal bunks would be. No good answer from me, I'm afraid. richg99


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## jrhals (Jul 23, 2016)

Thank You for your advice.


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