# trailer modification



## frydaddy (Apr 1, 2015)

someone added this plywood deck to this trailer. I want to take it off and run bunks. the boat is a 1654. would I be alright to remove plywood and old roller bunks and then just move center bunks further out?

if yes should I run them flat or up on 2in side?

if no I want to remove rollers and run 4 wooden bunks and try to position them where they are not under ribs.

also I will be in saltwater often if that makes a difference on bunks flat side or narrow side up.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Apr 1, 2015)

Sounds like a good plan to me.


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## richg99 (Apr 2, 2015)

Can't tell for sure if what I have is "correct", but my 1648 side console Lowe trailer has the 2x4 bunks upright. 

I just added plastic strips to make them more slippery.


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## TNtroller (Apr 2, 2015)

Either plan should work, one way may work a bit better for you loading/unloading, it would be a trial and error method to determine the best for you.


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## frydaddy (Apr 2, 2015)

thanks guys, im going to coat the boat with gatorglide to help with loading. just wanted to be sure boat was supported properly on the road. I took a huge steel/plywood deck off the front and when I get the 2x8 and plywood off the trailer I will be taking a ton of weight off total package. im surprised the po didn't rip the nose off her winching that moster on that plywood.


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## richg99 (Apr 2, 2015)

Slippery glides or some variation will save your winch and the bow connector, too.


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## nowgrn4 (Apr 2, 2015)

I would run the 3.5" width up. My trailer is wider than yours and I have my 2 by 4 bunks bolted right to the trailer frame without bunk supports. I covered the bunks with an inexpensive PVC fencepost I ripped in half on my table saw.https://www.homedepot.com/p/Veranda...-4-0-in-x-4-0-in-x-72-0-in-73010699/202084744 Sitting low on the trailer really helps launching and retrieval on some of the "Funky" ramps I use.


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## frydaddy (Apr 2, 2015)

he is another pic before I tear all the crap off it. im going to go with 2 bunks and probably remove that rubber stop and mount a 2x4 carpeted stop a couple feet wide. my boat is squared off on front but that I will test how sturdy it is when winched up tight.


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## nowgrn4 (Apr 3, 2015)

I can't tell from the pics. Are your fenders wider than the hull so you can drop everything down some?


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## frydaddy (Apr 3, 2015)

nowgrn4 said:


> I can't tell from the pics. Are your fenders wider than the hull so you can drop everything down some?



yes the first first pic was taken up close to try and show what was under there better. the sides of my boat are at a steep angle compared to newer jon's but I can go down some.


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## nowgrn4 (Apr 3, 2015)

If it fits between the fenders I would junk all that bunk stuff and just mount some 2 by 4 bunks right to the trailer frame cross members. I used 3" long 3/8" stainless carriage bolts to mount the bunks. I countersunk the heads a quarter inch down into the bunk and used ny-lock bolts under the cross members. Remember to extend the bunks back enough to support the transom/engine. After placement on the bunks adjust the center rollers snugly against the bottom center line.

The lower you get it positioned on the trailer the easier it will be to launch and retrieve. Plus fewer trailer components to rust out.


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## frydaddy (Apr 5, 2015)

nowgrn4 said:


> If it fits between the fenders I would junk all that bunk stuff and just mount some 2 by 4 bunks right to the trailer frame cross members. I used 3" long 3/8" stainless carriage bolts to mount the bunks. I countersunk the heads a quarter inch down into the bunk and used ny-lock bolts under the cross members. Remember to extend the bunks back enough to support the transom/engine. After placement on the bunks adjust the center rollers snugly against the bottom center line.
> 
> The lower you get it positioned on the trailer the easier it will be to launch and retrieve. Plus fewer trailer components to rust out.



those old rollers are pretty hard and cracking what if I just took center ones off as well and added a third 2x4 down the center. my boat doesmt have a rib exactly in the center of it so it would sit flat on it.


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## frydaddy (Apr 5, 2015)

nowgrn4 said:


> If it fits between the fenders I would junk all that bunk stuff and just mount some 2 by 4 bunks right to the trailer frame cross members. I used 3" long 3/8" stainless carriage bolts to mount the bunks. I countersunk the heads a quarter inch down into the bunk and used ny-lock bolts under the cross members. Remember to extend the bunks back enough to support the transom/engine. After placement on the bunks adjust the center rollers snugly against the bottom center line.
> 
> The lower you get it positioned on the trailer the easier it will be to launch and retrieve. Plus fewer trailer components to rust out.



those old rollers are pretty hard and cracking what if I just took center ones off as well and added a third 2x4 down the center. my boat doesmt have a rib exactly in the center of it so it would sit flat on it.


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## nowgrn4 (Apr 6, 2015)

I'm stumped. The center roller(rollers?) really helps center the hull and eases cranking until it rests on the bunks when retrieving. Does the front entry have a Vee or is it flat across the front?


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## richg99 (Apr 6, 2015)

IMHO, unless you add plastic sliders, I'd think hauling your loaded hull over three carpeted bunks would be difficult. 

Any roller would help slide the boat on.


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## frydaddy (Apr 10, 2015)

I got all the wood off. it is 62inch between fenders. im pretty sure boat will sit in there but I forgot to measure the boat. brought the trailer home so I can get it finished and put boat back on her.


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## frydaddy (Apr 10, 2015)

nowgrn4 said:


> I'm stumped. The center roller(rollers?) really helps center the hull and eases cranking until it rests on the bunks when retrieving. Does the front entry have a Vee or is it flat across the front?



it is flat across the front. this old trailer and boat were never a match other than they both are very old school and made of hard material. the walk is welded so its either cut it off or raise bunks at least a couple inches.


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## overboard (Apr 10, 2015)

I'm doing the same thing to a trailer right now for a 1654 FB Tracker GRIZZLEY. I also launch at some shallow launches and am rigging a trailer so the boat will sit on it as low as I can possibly get it. 
I also don't use carpet on the bunks.


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## flatboat (Apr 12, 2015)

Spray the carpeted bunks with silicone spray and you will be surprised how easy it slips off , just don't unhook it at steep ramps. I wrap the rope around the winch upright once ,unhook it unwrap it and off it goes . Not too fond of rollers , bunks spread the load better . to get your boat a little lower ,if you have room you can flip the axel to the bottom of the springs . I put snowmobile trailer tires ,like golfcart tires low and wide . made it easier to launch at unimproved ramps


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## frydaddy (Apr 17, 2015)

taking forever. sanded trailer and then 2 days of rain, primed it and then another day of rain, painted and 2more days of rain. bolted on bunks and carpeted 1 and yep started raining. I decided to double up on the bunks and it still might not clear fenders. if not I will have to use bunk brackets and find different roller brackets. the ones I have will be extended as high as they go with it the way it is now.


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## richg99 (Apr 17, 2015)

Have you measured the boat? From your first picture, it looked like the boat fit fine and was slightly below the tops of the fenders.

It is hard to judge without putting the boat on the trailer.

You'll figure it out. Good Luck, rich

p.s. Pouring like the blazes here in North Houston (Willowbrook mall) too.


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## frydaddy (Apr 17, 2015)

yes I measured it and laid out the ribs on the boat so bunks would lay flat between ribs.. trailer frame is 48, bottom of boat is 56 and inside the fenders is 62. but at mid point of sides it is about 66, sides slope out a lot. I figure I will get a couple guys to help me set it back on there and hopefuly it will clear at least a couple inches. if not Im thinking I could cut some 2inch steel tubing for blocks under the bunks and raise it up a couple more inches. previous plywood crap was 8 inches but im sure I don't need to go that high


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## frydaddy (Apr 18, 2015)

DONE. just keeping fingers crossed that the boat clears the fenders. hoping for no rain and 40 to 50% humidty tomorrow so I can get gatorglide on bottom of boat and get moving forward with it.


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## frydaddy (Apr 18, 2015)

im not good at this picture stuff. when I viewd it where it is saved it is upright but when I post it it is rotated. do I have to rotate it where it is saved or on here before I click submit?


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## nowgrn4 (Apr 18, 2015)

Looks great! After you get the hull on the bunks adjust the rollers firmly against the hull to help support the center line. Make sure the bunks protrude behind the transom a little bit to support the transom/engine.

Nice job.


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## richg99 (Apr 18, 2015)

On a couple of trailers that I've had, the fenders actually had a slanted portion on the inside, to allow for wider boats.


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## nowgrn4 (Apr 19, 2015)

richg99 said:


> On a couple of trailers that I've had, the fenders actually had a slanted portion on the inside, to allow for wider boats.




The guy across the street from me has a custom trailer like that. It looks like carpet covered plywood half moon cutouts attached to the insides of the fenders. They nestle right up against the hull.


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## richg99 (Apr 19, 2015)

Yep, half moons with carpet to protect the boat. I imagine most any trailer fender could be modified that way.


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## frydaddy (Apr 19, 2015)

I was actualy thinking that I will probably rub the fenders from time to time loading on windy days with it being a flat bottom boat and no V to catch center of trailer. so if it clears I may put a strip of carpet or weather strip along inside of fender to save paint. or would it be better to just get or make some short wooden guideons.


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## richg99 (Apr 19, 2015)

Pvc guides are easy and worth their weight on a windy day.


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## frydaddy (Apr 19, 2015)

I took advantage of the sunshine and but the gator base on today. and I remeasured the hull and trailer together and still wont know until I flip it over and put it on there. but I will hopefully get gatorglide finished Tuesday!!! ssshhhh don't say it (if no rain). and then by the end of the week I will be winching it up there.


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## frydaddy (Apr 19, 2015)

as long as this trailer mod has taken with all the rain and no enclosed area to work from, I think when I get it back on the trailer im going to slap a base coat of paint over the primer add the tx numbers and motor and go fishing before I start on floor and deck mods. lets just call it a water test instead of no patience.


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## frydaddy (Apr 29, 2015)

okay got boat on there had to raise another 2in but only have half an inch on each side. so now I think im going to add a piece of tubing to extend fender out. and add guide on. next issue is center of boat is too high for roller brackets. so I have another question. in my previous pic yall can see those old roller tracks. they have higher brackets so should I put one of them in the center or I can go with a 2x4 bunk turned 2in side up. gator glide has boat very slippery so im not worried about friction just support especially when loaded.


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## frydaddy (Apr 29, 2015)

forgot pics


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## nowgrn4 (May 11, 2015)

I see absolutely no problem running a roller bunk down the middle. All those rollers would give great support to the center line over bumps and pot holes.

Front roller? I think a carpet covered 2"-4" running laterally across the trailer would give better support to the front of the hull. This is how my trailer is rigged. The ridges on the bottom of my hull have worn through the carpet on said front support so I guess I'll have to notch the wood for each ridge and recarpet.

It's always something.


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