# Flotation pods? Do they help?



## GSPdog7 (Sep 4, 2017)

Bought a 1754 Tracker with a 60/40 Merc on it and it runs 30 mph just by myself. I came from the bass boat world where my skeeter had literally no hole shot it seemed. Thinking of adding some floatation pods to the back to help it get on plane. I feel like the boat planes pretty good but I think it could be better. Will adding them hurt my MPH? Will they help the holeshot where I could tell a difference between not having them and having them? Are they worth the money? Thanks!


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## richg99 (Sep 4, 2017)

I think of flotation pods for adding shallow water running.

I've used Smart Tabs ( or any tab system) for getting up on plane more quickly, and a softer ride. Planing at lower speeds also is an advantage of tabs, but flotation pods might also add that attribute.

richg99


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## nccatfisher (Sep 5, 2017)

Yes, it will slow your WOT speed.


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## Stumpalump (Sep 5, 2017)

I ran the Colorado River on Saturday and saw all sorts of jet boats. With those small boats and huge heavy engines I think pods may have found a proper place. Personally I want a wide hydrolic or electric trim tab but instead of the tab being a flat plate, make it 6" or 8" thick to add some floatation. Adjustable small pods. Could probably fab one right on top of a Benett trim tab. That would sell.


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## richg99 (Sep 5, 2017)

Stump.... since I have been a proponent of Smart Tabs for many years, (I used them on 3 boats) I, also, wondered about stacking some foam on top. 

However, I don't think that the small size of the tabs (in my case about 9x12) would add enough flotation to be worth it. Don't really know. 

richg99


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## GSPdog7 (Sep 5, 2017)

Kind of seems like adding them really won't hurt anything from what I've been reading. Most people say that if installed properly with a half an inch above the bottom of the boat or however you install them you won't see much top end lost. Plus the boat does feel a little bow high while running so maybe they will level the boat out a little since it's not a tunnel that will help out a little. What company makes good ones or should I make them myself? My dog will like them too getting in and out as well.


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## Stumpalump (Sep 5, 2017)

I can't see one size fitting all but they sell them. I'd call bevertail or one of the vendors that somebody may recomend here. Calculate in the angle of the transom and actual size you need to be able to turn that motor all the way. https://www.cabelas.com/product/Beavertail-Performance-Flotation-Pods/847206.uts


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## Stumpalump (Sep 5, 2017)

richg99 said:


> Stump.... since I have been a proponent of Smart Tabs for many years, (I used them on 3 boats) I, also, wondered about stacking some foam on top.
> 
> However, I don't think that the small size of the tabs (in my case about 9x12) would add enough flotation to be worth it. Don't really know.
> 
> richg99



If you cover that size tab with 4" of foam you would add 47.8 pounds of floatation. I bet you would feel that while walking around or running the flats.


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## GSPdog7 (Sep 6, 2017)

Seems like I might need to wait. I have a 5" CMC manual jack plate and going with the CMC 5" vertical riser next year. Just makes more sense to wait and do everything at the same time. But I will be buying them first thing when the time comes


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## richg99 (Sep 6, 2017)

Waiting sounds like the right plan.

When you raise the engine with the plate, you will be able to also raise the engine height a couple of inches more. That will change everything. 

richg99


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## GSPdog7 (Sep 6, 2017)

Yeah just trying to get this motor closer to the transom. It runs like a top now but I know it will run better with not much setback. I have almost no spray with this jack plate. Just seems like the boat is back heavy.


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## handyandy (Sep 7, 2017)

pods can help with what you want if you mount them correctly so they angle up slightly they shouldn't slow you down. If you mount them flush with the bottom and flat with it they will create a lot of extra drag while on plane slowing you down. If they are angled up from the bottom slightly and mounted slightly above the bottom they won't create that much more drag cause they shouldn't be dragging in the water while on plane if mounted that way. I have some I need to weld on my boat I had uncle j boats make mine. They were pretty reasonably priced. I made a cardboard template of pods on my boat then dropped the templates off to j's shop in Louisiana when I went down for a fishing trip. A friend of mine picked them up for me when he went down that way for a family trip. Uncle j's welded my pods using 3/16" aluminum, so they are much stronger than the beavertail manufactured pods which are made from .100. Mine are 3/16 which works out to be .190. So I now have ones specific to my boat, are stronger, and uncle j was cheaper than beavertail ones. I haven't had a chance to weld mine on to the boat yet. When I finally get to that I will post up a build thread of the process. 

Ultimately though they are a patch to a hull that isn't quiet right for the engine. But I like my hull and don't want to get a new one so I'm putting them on. If I did it over again for engines like mine or yours for that matter an 1852-1854 size hull is a good match they aren't really any slower, they draft shallower, and plane out faster cause they displace enough water to float the engine weight properly. The argument can be made that there are little speed boats 13-15ft in length with engines that weigh as much as ours and are really fast. But when sitting at rest they are back heavy and only run with a light load and one guy and are built just for speed. For reference I have a 1554 excel heavy hull with a 1994 70hp evinrude two stroke jet. It's around 40lbs lighter roughly than your merc 60/40 if it's a four stroke.


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## jtf (Sep 15, 2017)

Do smart tabs do the same thing as pods? Imagine pods have flotation value at rest. The motor that gets mounted on my 1648 mod/vee is 190lb and don't know how it will sit until it's mounted. Pods would be a helpful step back in the boat.


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## richg99 (Sep 15, 2017)

Pods add flotation value, Tabs (any tabs) do not.

If you have the hull, and the old engine ( or even without the old engine) you can simulate how the stern will sit. It won't be exact, but at least you will have some idea.

5-gallon buckets will hold approximately 42 lbs of water each. 8x8x16 concrete blocks weigh 28 lbs. A combination of these two devices, placed as far back as you can, will give you something to check out.

Adding flotation to tabs might help. How much is detailed in a post above.

You will have to account for the added weight of the pods, too.

Have you been able to identify any similar hulls with pods on the internet? Perhaps an owner will help with his opinion.

One of the guys in my local bass club has a heavy fiberglass "Bullet" brand boat. Big engine; big guy. His stern hangs so close to the water that I wouldn't want to go fishing in that craft.

IMHO, if your only issue is getting onto plane, tabs will do the job. If you have an extra-heavy engine that will be added, and experimenting with weights tells you that the stern will be sinking way down, then pods become a better choice.


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## nowgrn4 (Sep 18, 2017)

These would probably be the easiest and least expensive solution for your bow rise getting on plane.

https://www.boatersplus.com/t-and-r...MIpcbatYSv1gIVCR6GCh2qXAlEEAkYAyABEgLL1fD_BwE


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## Ranchero50 (Mar 18, 2018)

Pods trump tabs any day of the week. Pods work great to keep the arse end out of the water while you draft, something any outboard guy should love. Also the hulls longer wetted length allows the boat to come up on plane at a shallower angle as well as not sink so hard coming off plane. It'll keep the rear from digging in. All things a skinny water guy should embrace.

The only downside is it take a little more space due to the shallower launch angle to get on plane.

The only time I think I'd rather have tabs is if I fall out and can't climb the motor to get back in. Might be easier having the tab act as a low step.


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