# 1997 Tracker Pro Team 17 overhaul



## Prowelder (Feb 12, 2017)

I just purchased this setup for $2000. The motor is in excellent shape. Runs like a top. I had her running about 35 with 2 adults and a 6 year old. Everything works except the speedometer and trailer lights. The carpet and seats need to be replaced, and the boat has some leaky rivets. Nothing I can't handle. I am planning on installing some more storage hatches in the front as well as installing a handrail around the entire boat about 9" tall. Just something to help keep the kids safe. I have a 6 year old a 3 and a 2 year old so to me the rail is a must have. Especially since the decks are almost flush with the edge of the boat. I've already tore some of the floor up and started repairs. I also bought some 2014 triton seats to replace the old one. BTW these seats are more comfortable than my couch or the seats in my Denali!


















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## Crankbait (Feb 12, 2017)

Here we go. This is gonna be exciting! Good deal!

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## jbird68 (Feb 12, 2017)

Is that a big dent on the right side? I can't Make it out in the first photo. 

Sincerely, 

jbird68


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## Prowelder (Feb 12, 2017)

jbird68 said:


> Is that a big dent on the right side? I can't Make it out in the first photo.
> 
> Sincerely,
> 
> jbird68


No its has some flex seal sprayed on the side and bottom. Thankfully there are no bad dents at all.

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## jbird68 (Feb 12, 2017)

Well, that's good. In the photo it looked like it was crushed in that area. 

Sincerely, 

jbird68


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## Prowelder (Feb 18, 2017)

Update. This spray foam is a bitch. Whoever decided it would be a good idea to use this stuff should be hit with the bus driver uppercut! If anybody out there has ever restored one of these boats or knows how to tear the back deck apart and remove everything from the gas tank to the steering console I greatly appreciate the knowledge. I'm honestly thinking of completely gutting this boat and Welding the seam down the middle completely and all the rivets. This will delay process dramatically, but I plan on keeping this one for a long time. The plan was to just fix the leak enough to get me through til next winter but now that I'm tearing this thing apart I can't help but want to do it the right way. I have already removed all of the foam from the front deck and started removing some from the back deck I guarantee you I have removed over a hundred pounds of wet moldy foam. Fishing season is coming quickly and if I have to I will buy 200 feet of extension cord to run my battery maintainers and let the billage run all night while it's in the water at our lake house but I still have a good four weeks and I love a challenge. I'll post some pics of This Disaster

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## Prowelder (Feb 18, 2017)

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## gatorglenn (Feb 18, 2017)

When you pull the carpet off the back. It will be pretty much self-explanatory from that point on. The whole lumen them back part of it is in different sheets that is riveted down to the sub frame. Just drill the rivets out the panels will come up in the foam will be easy to get to from there. You'll know what I'm talking about after you pull the carpet up.


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## Prowelder (Feb 18, 2017)

This stuff is disgusting and yes I plan on replacing it with some closed cell foam. Once I have fix all the leaks and welded everything solid I plan on installing a layer of coat it on the inside of the boat. I like the look of the shiny bare aluminum on the outside and do not plan on painting it. It's easy to spray it with some aluminum stripper and clear coat every winter. I do not plan on using it during the winter. I have another boat for that. This is basically going to be my Lake boat for Bass and catfishing in the summer. 

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## Prowelder (Feb 18, 2017)

gatorglenn said:


> When you pull the carpet off the back. It will be pretty much self-explanatory from that point on. The whole lumen them back part of it is in different sheets that is riveted down to the sub frame. Just drill the rivets out the panels will come up in the foam will be easy to get to from there. You'll know what I'm talking about after you pull the carpet up.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That's what I was thinking I was hoping to leave this carpet in until next winter but at this point to fix the leaks and remove the foam it seems inevitable

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## gatorglenn (Feb 18, 2017)

This is where Iam at now. Starting back up actually tomorrow.


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## Prowelder (Feb 19, 2017)

Removed more floor and foam

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## Prowelder (Feb 23, 2017)

three and a half more hours of ripping this thing apart and I'm almost there! I am honestly considering welding the ribs to the hull. Then drilling out all the rivets and plug welding all the holes up from the bottom of the boat. Anybody ever done that? Any advice

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## Prowelder (Feb 24, 2017)

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## gatorglenn (Feb 24, 2017)

Wow, I'd say this is a full take down. Was the foam soaked 


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## Prowelder (Feb 24, 2017)

Yeah she was extremely and moldy. It smelled terrible underneath there. I'm going to clean it up and start welding on it soon. About 10 hours into this build just for demo. I filled up 3 City trash cans full of dirty foam. I guarantee you I remove at least 200 pounds probably more

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## Prowelder (Feb 27, 2017)

I think I repaired all the leaks. After tearing the floor and console out I noticed that someone had done a terrible repair job. The floor ribs where they meet the corner of the hull uprights under the side console had broken welds and the rivets had cracks between them. So someone decided it would be a good idea to use some steel plates on the inside and outside of the boat to sandwich the rib down with through bolts. Then they covered it with Flex Seal. Obviously the Steel corroded and contaminated the aluminum. I removed all the steel patches, and cleaned the aluminum the best I could. Then I put some new plates underneath the ribs inside of the boat and welded them, and had to weld four of these plates on the bottom of the boat. FYI if you do not know what you're doing do not jerry-rig your boat. All you're really doing is making it worse and harder for someone who actually knows how to fix it later on

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## derekdiruz (Feb 27, 2017)

Prowelder said:


> I think I repaired all the leaks. After tearing the floor and console out I noticed that someone had done a terrible repair job. The floor ribs where they meet the corner of the hull uprights under the side console had broken welds and the rivets had cracks between them. So someone decided it would be a good idea to use some steel plates on the inside and outside of the boat to sandwich the rib down with through bolts. Then they covered it with Flex Seal. Obviously the Steel corroded and contaminated the aluminum. I removed all the steel patches, and cleaned the aluminum the best I could. Then I put some new plates underneath the ribs inside of the boat and welded them, and had to weld four of these plates on the bottom of the boat. FYI if you do not know what you're doing do not jerry-rig your boat. All you're really doing is making it worse and harder for someone who actually knows how to fix it later on
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk


That last little bit I agree with 100%. My current build is a culmination of 10 previous owners who did stupid stuff to just stay on the water. Instead of paying for a welder they bondo'd half the darn boat. Now it's safe to say it's been done correctly but it's taken me weeks instead of days. 

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## onthewater102 (Feb 27, 2017)

Stupid lives matter too (for some reason)


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## dearl (Feb 27, 2017)

What process did you use to kill the corrosion caused by the carbon/aluminum sandwich?


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## harleydoc (Feb 27, 2017)

Best way to get all that foam out is take a high powered power washer to it and go to town took me about an hour to do an older bass tracker 


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## Prowelder (Feb 27, 2017)

I just cleaned it with some aluminum stripper and a Wire Wheel & Grinder

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## dearl (Feb 28, 2017)

Prowelder said:


> I just cleaned it with some aluminum stripper and a Wire Wheel & Grinder
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk



Just for future reference anytime you deal with corrosion on Aluminum, use a chemical treatment. Aluma prep 33 and alodine is the best way to create a chromate conversion. This will kill and keep corrosion from forming again. Its pricey, but phosphoric acid diluted or muriatic acid diluted will do the same thing. Work it in with a stainless wire brush, and flush real good with plenty of water. Using a baking soda neutralizer afterwards is a plus to make sure you don't burn through the aluminum. Dry real good then as soon as its dry don't touch it with your hands or wipe it with anything, but give it a good coat of zinc chromate primer. Then use a patch twice the size of the effected area if you can.

Corrosion once formed is very hard to get rid of and eventually eat your boat. If you plan to keep it any length of time, try to vent some air under the floor to help keep it dry. A hull that stays wet under the deck just intensifies the corrosion process.

I've worked on literally hundreds of aluminum hulls and seen just about every Jerry Rig known to man, but a lot of people don't understand how to properly address some issues or they don't care. The plates bolted through the hull should have been your first red flag of major issues, if not the flex seal painted on the bottom should have been a dead give away.


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## onthewater102 (Feb 28, 2017)

^^^damn...so much for solving all the world's problems with a cocktail of bondo, gluvit & steelflex.


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## dearl (Feb 28, 2017)

onthewater102 said:


> ^^^damn...so much for solving all the world's problems with a cocktail of bondo, gluvit & steelflex.




and none of those will stop corrosion either.


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## Prowelder (Mar 5, 2017)

Did a small job for Jerry Harris from Fish Mavericks and he hooked me up with this hummingbird 998c SI. This thing is huge. I'm excited

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## sonny.barile (Mar 6, 2017)

What flavor are you vaping.......


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## Prowelder (Mar 6, 2017)

sonny.barile said:


> What flavor are you vaping.......


Haha "Day Break" it's basically Captain Crunch

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## sonny.barile (Mar 6, 2017)

I made the switch too. I am also a fan of the cereal flavors. I have been vaping frosted cheerios and whoopee pie.

Thats a nice piece of electronics. Their not going to be able to hide from you.


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## Prowelder (Mar 13, 2017)

Finally had some time to work on my tracker a little bit. I welded on some safety rails to keep the kids safe. I'm going to cut and Mitre (45deg) the front and back of each railing down to the boat rail.

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## Prowelder (Mar 15, 2017)

I finished off the railings tonight. I was going to roll them but this boat is not rounded anywhere. It is square shape with angles all over. I decided to go with the 45 degree angle on the railing hoping to match the Contour of the boat itself. I'm very pleased with the way they turned out and hoping for some better weather soon so I can cover the floors with coat it. Then I'm going to start Carpeting and putting this bad boy back together. I have a question for you guys I have a Lowrance 4 x chirp Fishfinder and the Humminbird 998c SI. Trying to decide which one I should put by my console and which one to put in the front. I'm leaning more towards the Humminbird up front for better Imaging when I'm trolling, but I will also be losing out on the GPS feature because I cannot see it from the side console when I'm driving the boat. Any information would be helpful. Thank you

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## gatorglenn (Mar 15, 2017)

Looks super, great job. I would put the side imaging at the console.


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## onthewater102 (Mar 15, 2017)

Agreed w/ the side imaging @ the console - though if you sell one of the two units & buy a 2nd of the same manufacturer you should be able to network them together and share the waypoints - this way you can mark items @ the console as you drive by & then fish them using the GPS from the front.


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## Prowelder (Mar 15, 2017)

gatorglenn said:


> Looks super, great job. I would put the side imaging at the console.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What would be the benefit of that? 

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## gatorglenn (Mar 15, 2017)

Just like on the water said, I do most of my searching from the console.


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## onthewater102 (Mar 16, 2017)

Prowelder said:


> What would be the benefit of that?



With your transducer mounted off your transom your side imaging only shows you what you've passed by already - I find it's next to useless to you when fishing other than to circle back & fish structure you missed. For me I pass by an area on the gas motor going slowly watching the side imaging & mark the cover/structure I think the fish might be holding to then I come back and fish it with the trolling motor but when I'm fishing I'm using the GPS chart to stay within 75' of my waypoints so my casts are more likely to be close to the mark. You can physically mark them with buoys too if you need to be extra precise with your casts.


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## Prowelder (Mar 23, 2017)

I got all the leaks welded up and I poured a layer of coat it in the bottom of the boat. Working my way up from the back. Insulated the back deck and stole the idea of diamond plate from gator Glen for the back compartment. I have tons of aluminum just laying around the shop so luckily I won't have to buy any material for this project. Still need to run a little bit of electrical wire before I completely finish the back deck, but I'm hoping I will have the back deck carpeted by this weekend.

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## gatorglenn (Mar 24, 2017)

Looking good, what type foam is that your using. Iam in the process of de-foaming my boat now. Don't know what Iam going to use yet.


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## Prowelder (Mar 25, 2017)

gatorglenn said:


> Looking good, what type foam is that your using. Iam in the process of de-foaming my boat now. Don't know what Iam going to use yet.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


1 1/2" closed cell foam from home Depot. I had this left over from the Weldbilt 1652 project. I got some 1" and some 1/2" green foam from Lowe's to do the rest of the boat earlier. This boat only has a wood floor and a wooden front deck. The rest of the boat is aluminum. I am not going to buy marine plywood it is ridiculously priced and a waste of money. I bought some half inch exterior plywood and painted it with two coats of oil based Kilz. Saved about $200. I'm sure some of you will disagree with me but this is more than enough for your boat. My boat will never see weather unless I get caught in it fishing! I keep it in my garage and when I am at our lake house I always cover it at night. I am about to wrap this project up in the next couple of weeks. The kids go on spring break the week before Easter and I plan on taking that week off of work and going to Lake Gaston. I'm about to start running some electrical tonight. I have 14 LED spotlights I am going to install [4 headlights, 5 floodlights on each side], and two16 foot red LED rope lights im putting on the inside of the rails, and a radio with 4 speakers.. My wife may not be happy with me but I'm going to work around the clock to put this thing back together! Although it is supposed to be 75 degrees and sunny tomorrow and Sunday I might have to take a break and hit some fishing holes!

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## edwonbass (Mar 25, 2017)

Prowelder said:


> gatorglenn said:
> 
> 
> > Looking good, what type foam is that your using. Iam in the process of de-foaming my boat now. Don't know what Iam going to use yet.
> ...



As an experiment I left a piece of 1/2 inch exterior grade plywood in the back of my pickup since October. It's been through rain, snow, and ice and still shows no signs of de-lamination or bubbling on the surface. One end of the piece even stayed submerged for days at a time since I park on an incline and my plastic bed liner holds water.
I treated my deck parts with 3 coats of spar urethane and keep my boat covered when not fishing. 
Between the urethane, carpet glue, and rubber backed carpet, I am going to officially stop worrying if I did enough to protect my wood. 
I think you are going to be OK.


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## edwonbass (Mar 25, 2017)

Oh yeah, and your build is coming along nice!


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## gatorglenn (Mar 25, 2017)

I agree, you would be good on the decks.





This is where I at now. Doing a re fresh. How you make your deadline [emoji106]


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## gatorglenn (Mar 25, 2017)

gatorglenn said:


> I agree, you would be good on the decks.
> 
> 
> 
> ...





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## gatorglenn (Mar 25, 2017)

That's supposed to say I hope you make your deadline good luck


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## Prowelder (Mar 26, 2017)

gatorglenn said:


> That's supposed to say I hope you make your deadline good luck
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Thanks. Yeah I'm pushing it now

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## Prowelder (Mar 26, 2017)

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## Prowelder (Mar 27, 2017)

Started some carpeting and electrical today! I'm in love with this 24oz carpet! It's ridiculous how nice it is, and easy to apply. It really sticks to the glue good. I must say I'm impressed. Boatcarpetbuys.com 
I got a 8.5ft x 20ft roll with 2 gallons of glue for less than $300. The countdown is on. I'm trying to finish it in 11 days. We'll see!

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## Prowelder (Mar 28, 2017)

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## DPI (Mar 28, 2017)

Prowelder said:


> I got a 8.5ft x 20ft roll with 2 gallons of glue for less than $300. The countdown is on. I'm trying to finish it in 11 days.



A couple things I learned the hard way:

The glue boatcarpetbuy sells by the gallon is not for aluminum and I used about 240 sq ft of carpet on my pro175 with very little waste.

Bcb recommends a solvent based adhesive for aluminum, ie contact cement.


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## Prowelder (Mar 28, 2017)

DPI said:


> Prowelder said:
> 
> 
> > I got a 8.5ft x 20ft roll with 2 gallons of glue for less than $300. The countdown is on. I'm trying to finish it in 11 days.
> ...


What happened with the glue I have glued a couple of pieces with it and it seems to be very strong on the aluminum

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## DPI (Mar 28, 2017)

I haven't had any issues with the flat panels yet. It's the lids around the hinges that seem to be coming loose. I bought some big syringes and pumped contact cement in. That seems to be holding the loose spots.


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## Prowelder (Mar 28, 2017)

Thank you for the information I still have some of that trowel on outdoor carpet cement I might use for the hatches

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## Prowelder (Mar 31, 2017)

Made a little progress this week. I'm so happy that I decided to take the gauges out of that console and paint it it turned out great. I ran the electrical for five of the LED lights on one side. The picture was taken about 11 o'clock at night there were no other lights on in the garage besides the LEDs. It's really going to make it nice Landing a fish at night time. I really won't be able to use them too much during the summer because I know they will attract tons of bugs

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## gatorglenn (Apr 1, 2017)

Looking great! What paint is that on the console. Did you have to primer the console first. what process did you use


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## Prowelder (Apr 3, 2017)

gatorglenn said:


> Looking great! What paint is that on the console. Did you have to primer the console first. what process did you use
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I just cleaned it and wiped it down with acetone and spray painted it with high heat enamel.

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## Prowelder (Apr 4, 2017)

90 percent of my electrical done.

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## Cody87 (Apr 4, 2017)

Your side rails turned out really nice. Great job man.


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## Prowelder (Apr 4, 2017)

Cody87 said:


> Your side rails turned out really nice. Great job man.


Thanks

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## gatorglenn (Apr 5, 2017)

Prowelder said:


> gatorglenn said:
> 
> 
> > Looking great! What paint is that on the console. Did you have to primer the console first. what process did you use
> ...


Thanks great job


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## Prowelder (Apr 5, 2017)

Putting it back together








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## gatorglenn (Apr 5, 2017)

Prowelder said:


> Putting it back together
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yep, doing good. Me you and Cody87 are on the same weave link.






This is where Iam at now. To clean her up and start the rebirth 


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## bajaoffroad001 (Apr 5, 2017)

This is a neat rebuild. I can't wait to see the finished product. I should also thank you for getting me back on track with the project I started over a year ago. ('88 Pro 17)



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## Prowelder (Apr 6, 2017)

Here's a before and after of the gas tank and Battery area! Big difference. You guys probably think I'm crazy but this boat will be done by Saturday night! I'm going to lake Gaston Sunday morning for a week and this boat is going with me one way or another














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## gatorglenn (Apr 6, 2017)

You must be going to work nonstop [emoji106]
There's a lot left to do. Good luck! Hope your done


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## Cody87 (Apr 6, 2017)

Well maybe when your done you could come to Maryland and help me finish mine lol.


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## Prowelder (Apr 6, 2017)

Old to new





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## oobuck (Apr 6, 2017)

I have the same boat how hard is it to get the front deck off 

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## Prowelder (Apr 6, 2017)

oobuck said:


> I have the same boat how hard is it to get the front deck off
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


The easiest part. All you have to do is take the screws out and it comes right up

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## oobuck (Apr 6, 2017)

Prowelder said:


> oobuck said:
> 
> 
> > I have the same boat how hard is it to get the front deck off
> ...


What about the hinges for the storage and the floor part by the helm

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## sokmace (Apr 6, 2017)

Prowelder said:


>



You've made a ton of progress - great job! I've been following this build all along and may pull some ideas for my PT165 build on another thread. 

What material did you use on the bow panel where the trolling motor is mounted? On my boat, the vinyl that came from the factory was cracked and peeling really badly, so I scraped it all off. I'm going to paint that area to match the rails/gunnels, but I think that some kind of vinyl or thin textured padding up there gives it a real "finished" look.


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## Prowelder (Apr 16, 2017)

They're disappointed to say that I have the boat 90% completed but I had an issue with the power and I could not get it done in time to take to the lake last week. The motor was not starting it was trying to but it would not. So high took the solenoid out and clean the terminals put it back together and cleaned up the couple of wires that look burnt. Once I got it all put back together there is no power at all coming into the motor. The power tilt and trim does not work. I tried jumping the solenoid with a screwdriver and once again it tried to start. I checked all the fuses I can think of there's only one on the motor I know of and several under the console any help?





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## Prowelder (Apr 16, 2017)

sokmace said:


> Prowelder said:
> 
> 
> >
> ...


I just clean it with aluminum stripper and painted it there's really no need for me to have any type of texture up there because it is completely covered. As you can see in the picture there's no room to stand up there now

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## Prowelder (Apr 16, 2017)

oobuck said:


> Prowelder said:
> 
> 
> > oobuck said:
> ...


Everything is screwed and riveted together once you start disassembling it pretty much self-explanatory

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## Prowelder (Apr 17, 2017)

Prowelder said:


> They're disappointed to say that I have the boat 90% completed but I had an issue with the power and I could not get it done in time to take to the lake last week. The motor was not starting it was trying to but it would not. So high took the solenoid out and clean the terminals put it back together and cleaned up the couple of wires that look burnt. Once I got it all put back together there is no power at all coming into the motor. The power tilt and trim does not work. I tried jumping the solenoid with a screwdriver and once again it tried to start. I checked all the fuses I can think of there's only one on the motor I know of and several under the console any help?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Anybody have Any helpful advise?

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## Prowelder (Apr 17, 2017)

Glen are there any inline fuses anywhere? I have check the obvious fuse panel under the console and the 20 amp fuse in the motor itself am I missing anything

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## gatorglenn (Apr 18, 2017)

On the red wire side of your cables you should see this



if not then get one from almost any boat part supplier. Most easiest ones to get our usually Whole salemarine.com or TH marine



this is the one that actually came on my tracker and it's 412 and 24 V system but this one is a 40 amp 


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## Prowelder (Apr 18, 2017)

How close to the battery is that because I do not have one that I can see

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## gatorglenn (Apr 18, 2017)

It's only 8" away. But it can be anywhere along that line that makes it easy to get to


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## gatorglenn (Apr 18, 2017)

this one is your standard flat 2 prone fuse it doesn't really matter what type you use just as long as you have one


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## Prowelder (Apr 18, 2017)

I am going to double check the lines tonight I talked to the guy at Bass Pro Shop he told me there is no inline fuse for my year. He did say that it sounds like I may have a bad spot in one of the lines

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## gatorglenn (Apr 18, 2017)

I would pull new 6ga. Wire hot and ground. With a in line fuse. For a new trolling motor. And your good for a long while [emoji1303]


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## gatorglenn (Apr 18, 2017)

Run it straight down the center of the boat to the batteries not the fuse panel 


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## Prowelder (Apr 18, 2017)

gatorglenn said:


> Run it straight down the center of the boat to the batteries not the fuse panel
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


My trolling motor runs fine just no power to the outboard. All the accessories and pumps are also working fine. It has to be something from the ignition to the outboard

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## gatorglenn (Apr 18, 2017)

OK I just went back and read a little further. I thought we were talking about the in-line fuse for the trolling motor. Sorry I see you are talking about the motor it's self. The only thing that would not allow it to get power at all to anything back there would be your ignition switch from that point go back toward the fuse panel and then back to the battery if everything is good in that order 


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## gatorglenn (Apr 18, 2017)

The problem is not in the motor of course. It is in the wiring from your ignition switch to the battery


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## Prowelder (Apr 18, 2017)

Yes I can start the motor if I jump the solenoid with a screwdriver. So I'm assuming it has to be in the wiring somewhere

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## gatorglenn (Apr 18, 2017)

Go back to post #79 in that pic. Is the inline fuse from my battery to the fuse block. I know someone told you that your model may not have it I find that a little hard to believe. But mines an 06 and you also may have the fuse directly in the block for it instead of being in line.


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## Prowelder (Apr 18, 2017)

gatorglenn said:


> Go back to post #79 in that pic. Is the inline fuse from my battery to the fuse block. I know someone told you that your model may not have it I find that a little hard to believe. But mines an 06 and you also may have the fuse directly in the block for it instead of being in line.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes I have checked the power line from the battery all the way to the fuse box there is a 20 amp fuse it's connected to in the panel that is fine. There is no inline fuse in the line

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## gatorglenn (Apr 18, 2017)

And you do have power coming out of the fuse box going to the motor another words from battery to fuse box is OK fuse box out are you not getting anything out of the fuse box


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## onthewater102 (Apr 19, 2017)

Do you have a continuity tester?


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## oobuck (Apr 20, 2017)

How about your kill switch 

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## DPI (Apr 20, 2017)

Is there a fuse on the motor itself? My 2004 has one on the upper right rear corner of the motor. When it fails, the power tilt won't work, I found that the hard way. 

Also, since you pulled the console, check the wiring harness plug connections in the console. The plugs have split male pins that collapsed on mine. I used a small screwdriver and spread the pins apart very carefully. I also used dielectric grease to help stop corrosion in those plugs.

https://m.oreillyauto.com/h5/r/oap/site/c/detail/PER0/22058/N0941.oap?ck=Search_N0941_-1_-1&pt=N0941&ppt=C0139


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## Prowelder (Apr 20, 2017)

Thank you for all of the help and advice. I regret to inform you all that I am a dumbass. I took the solenoid out to clean the terminals and when I put it back in I hooked the power lines to the wrong side. After hours of tracing wire and trying to figure out the problem I realized what I had done. Even though I was pissed off at myself I was relieved to know I had fixed the problem!

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## Prowelder (May 1, 2017)

Done
























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## derekdiruz (May 1, 2017)

Bro, good looking boat. I've wished lately that I knew how to weld aluminum like this. Awesome work. 

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## JigglyJohnson (May 1, 2017)

I'm curious how much you'd charge to do the exact same build if someone provided the same hull


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## gatorglenn (May 2, 2017)

Turned out super. You do know this is a lifetime boat right. Make memories pass it on to your son. Great job


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## onthewater102 (May 2, 2017)

Prowelder said:


> Thank you for all of the help and advice. I regret to inform you all that I am a dumbass. I took the solenoid out to clean the terminals and when I put it back in I hooked the power lines to the wrong side. After hours of tracing wire and trying to figure out the problem I realized what I had done. Even though I was pissed off at myself I was relieved to know I had fixed the problem!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk




Pride is a lot cheaper than parts! Congrats on the awesome build - hope you and your family get to safely enjoy it for years.


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## Prowelder (May 2, 2017)

JigglyJohnson said:


> I'm curious how much you'd charge to do the exact same build if someone provided the same hull
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


At least a couple grand

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## JigglyJohnson (May 2, 2017)

Prowelder said:


> JigglyJohnson said:
> 
> 
> > I'm curious how much you'd charge to do the exact same build if someone provided the same hull
> ...



What state are you in?


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## Prowelder (May 2, 2017)

JigglyJohnson said:


> Prowelder said:
> 
> 
> > JigglyJohnson said:
> ...


Virginia beach Virginia 

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## Prowelder (May 24, 2017)

Finally got around to installing the red rope lights under my side rails!









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## oobuck (May 24, 2017)

I like them what brand and where did you get them I would like to get them in blue oh and how much

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## Prowelder (May 30, 2017)

oobuck said:


> I like them what brand and where did you get them I would like to get them in blue oh and how much
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk


I got them off of eBay for $8 a piece for a 16 foot run. If you check out my other post you can see the link to them. I think it is called the best 14ft John Boat

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## Prowelder (May 30, 2017)

This was the first time I took the Tracker to Lake Gaston and it turned out to be an amazing trip! The lights are perfect, and we caught some cats too.

















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## Prowelder (Jun 15, 2017)

I finally found a matching chief seat for my tracker! It's a little newer, but the same color and style. I just can't stand and fish in a butt seat all day with my back. Lol. You wouldn't believe how many people ask about this rig. Been sketching and trying to figure out how to make a trolling rack for the back of the boat. I'll be starting that in the next couple of weeks. I'm headed out to Lake Gaston next week. I'm hoping to catch some bass in the morning and some catfish for dinner at night. Wish me luck!








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## Prowelder (Jun 17, 2017)

Fabricated an aluminum drop in bin for the back compartment that fits three of my Plano boxes





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## ckhenshaw4 (Jul 10, 2017)

That is one awesome build Sir. Really gives me some inspiration to do mine this winter. 

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## Prowelder (Jul 13, 2017)

ckhenshaw4 said:


> That is one awesome build Sir. Really gives me some inspiration to do mine this winter.
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk


Thank you very much I'm thinking about starting another project here soon

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## Prowelder (Dec 19, 2017)

Well I got a deal on this boat. I picked it up for 2200 bucks I really have no interest in the boat I just want the 75 horsepower outboard. I plan on fixing it up this Winter and swapping motors with the 40 on my tracker and selling it in the springtime. The boat needs a little help but the trailer is in excellent shape and the motor runs like a top. I've got a few other boats I need to finish up for customers 1st, but if I don't sell this thing as is before I get done I'm going to start overhauling it. If I do, this will be the 1st boat I've bought with intentions of flipping it. I am a bit of a perfectionist so if I get my hands dirty with this project one lucky person will get a heck of a boat! The 40 horsepower motor thats on my boat now has very low hours and no issues. I just figure the boat is rated for a 75 hp and At this stage in my life with 3 little kids Every minute saved getting to my fishing hole is an extra minute I get to fish before daddy duty calls! Wish me luck














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## PBRMINER (Dec 20, 2017)

wish you were close would love to have that new tracker without the motor......


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## Prowelder (Mar 11, 2018)

I fially got time to swap the motor and install a jack plate. Im going to run her on tuesday to see what she can do!


























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## Prowelder (Mar 14, 2018)

Well i ran it yesterday and top speed was 42mph. It had way too much pop and i feel like i could get a little more top end with a different prop. The prop i was running was a 13" 19 pitch aluminum with chips and bent blades. I'm sure it was the original prop that came with the motor. So I went to my local prop shop and after discussing it over with the owner I purchased a stainless steel 13" 21 pitch propeller for $200. The dry wieght of my boat is only 680 pounds with me and my gear, kids or another adult I'm looking around 1100-1200 lb. I am going to test it out on Friday and will post results! I am hoping with this new propeller I will be able to break 50 mph. Maybe it's wishful thinking, but i guess we will see!





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## Prowelder (Mar 14, 2018)

Prowelder said:


> Well i ran it yesterday and top speed was 42mph. It had way too much pop and i feel like i could get a little more top end with a different prop. The prop i was running was a 13" 19 pitch aluminum with chips and bent blades. I'm sure it was the original prop that came with the motor. So I went to my local prop shop and after discussing it over with the owner I purchased a stainless steel 13" 21 pitch propeller for $200. The dry wieght of my boat is only 680 pounds with me and my gear, kids or another adult I'm looking around 1100-1200 lb. I am going to test it out on Friday and will post results! I am hoping with this new propeller I will be able to break 50 mph. Maybe it's wishful thinking, but i guess we will see!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


More pics of prop








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## Jbower (Mar 14, 2018)

Prowelder said:


> Prowelder said:
> 
> 
> > Well i ran it yesterday and top speed was 42mph. It had way too much pop and i feel like i could get a little more top end with a different prop. The prop i was running was a 13" 19 pitch aluminum with chips and bent blades. I'm sure it was the original prop that came with the motor. So I went to my local prop shop and after discussing it over with the owner I purchased a stainless steel 13" 21 pitch propeller for $200. The dry wieght of my boat is only 680 pounds with me and my gear, kids or another adult I'm looking around 1100-1200 lb. I am going to test it out on Friday and will post results! I am hoping with this new propeller I will be able to break 50 mph. Maybe it's wishful thinking, but i guess we will see!
> ...


i know what you mean by to much pop lol. I have a 90 on mine and topped out at 43. 0-30 was insane though. New prop soon


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## Prowelder (Mar 17, 2018)

Well the 21 pitch prop Did not work out. It would only get the RPM's up to about 4800 and top speed was the same 42mph. So I traded it in for a 19 pitch stainless propeller. RPM's went up to 5300 and top speed was the same still, But acceleration was faster. I'm thinking of trying a 17 pitch prop when I get the boat back from my mechanic.





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## Jbower (Mar 24, 2018)

You should of tried raising the jackplate with the 21 pitch prop. Probably would of got the rpms to come up


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## gatorglenn (Mar 24, 2018)

Prowelder said:


> Well the 21 pitch prop Did not work out. It would only get the RPM's up to about 4800 and top speed was the same 42mph. So I traded it in for a 19 pitch stainless propeller. RPM's went up to 5300 and top speed was the same still, But acceleration was faster. I'm thinking of trying a 17 pitch prop when I get the boat back from my mechanic.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 The one in this pic has no rake at all. I would put a 17p SS X7 Spitfire on it. It is a 2.33 gear isn’t it.


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## Prowelder (Mar 24, 2018)

gatorglenn said:


> Prowelder said:
> 
> 
> > Well the 21 pitch prop Did not work out. It would only get the RPM's up to about 4800 and top speed was the same 42mph. So I traded it in for a 19 pitch stainless propeller. RPM's went up to 5300 and top speed was the same still, But acceleration was faster. I'm thinking of trying a 17 pitch prop when I get the boat back from my mechanic.
> ...


I accidentally posted the wrong pick this is of a different motor I just tried a 17 pitch prop And it did not work good. Top speed was only 38 miles per hour and rpm at 6000. I'm pretty sure I need 18 pitch

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## Prowelder (Mar 24, 2018)

Jbower said:


> You should of tried raising the jackplate with the 21 pitch prop. Probably would of got the rpms to come up
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The Jack plate cannot come up any higher or the motor will cavitate

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## Jbower (Mar 24, 2018)

Prowelder said:


> Jbower said:
> 
> 
> > You should of tried raising the jackplate with the 21 pitch prop. Probably would of got the rpms to come up
> ...


That’s odd I have virtually same boat same jackplate different motor but I can literally have my jackplate all the way up with little problem. What prop did you try it with? If it was the chewed up aluminum one I could see and if it was a stainless with vent holes that would also cause it. I have an 18p on my evinrude and they recommend a atleast a 21. Only prop I have access to is a 24 to try so if I can I will either open the vents up to get some slip or raise the motor back up a half inch 


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## Prowelder (Mar 24, 2018)

Jbower said:


> Prowelder said:
> 
> 
> > Jbower said:
> ...


I ran it with the 19 pitch stainless

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## gatorglenn (Mar 24, 2018)

Prowelder said:


> Jbower said:
> 
> 
> > Prowelder said:
> ...


You are able to trim out to a 20* right. Maybe the trim sensor is off. That’s a very low speed for 6000 rpms. So Iam not sure it would even be a bad trim angle. But after running the numbers on the 17p run. It at 8.32 prop slip. So that’s not to bad. Newer 75 motors on this style and length hull is maxing out at 39-41 mph gps.


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## Prowelder (Mar 24, 2018)

gatorglenn said:


> Prowelder said:
> 
> 
> > Jbower said:
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I think I'm going to stick with the 19 and try bringing it up half inch. I'm happy with it I'm running 42 mph top speed with a full load, And it's hitting about 5300 rpm right now. If I bring it up a little I might get a little more out of it. It's crazy how much difference the prop makes. The prop shop that I got this one from said I can do exchanges or refunds up to 60 days. Are even number props harder to come by. I checked a couple places in all they have are 17,19 and 21. The shop I got this Propeller from said they could alter it and make it an 18. I don't know how much that would cost but I am headed to lake Gaston for a week this upcoming Thursday. I am definitely going to put some hours on this motor with the 19 pitch prop and play with the jack plate. I will check back in when I get back and let you know what's going on. The best part about this site is that there are lots of other people out there with a good knowledge to share

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## gatorglenn (Mar 24, 2018)

Prowelder said:


> gatorglenn said:
> 
> 
> > Prowelder said:
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sound good. to repitch a prop is 50-100 dollars at most shops 


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## Prowelder (Mar 25, 2018)

gatorglenn said:


> Prowelder said:
> 
> 
> > gatorglenn said:
> ...


I'm wondering if it is even worth it though what am I really going to gain 2 or 3 miles per hour for a 100 bucks?

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## gatorglenn (Mar 25, 2018)

Prowelder said:


> gatorglenn said:
> 
> 
> > Prowelder said:
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i would just so the rpms will come up. Regardless what you gain on speed. What’s y’all prop to pad measurement. If you can move the motor up and don’t go past 5 1/2 inches. I would do that. Moving the motor just one hole on the transom is good for 100 RPMs on average


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## Jbower (Mar 25, 2018)

gatorglenn said:


> Prowelder said:
> 
> 
> > gatorglenn said:
> ...


That’s the problem we don’t really have a pad 


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## gatorglenn (Mar 25, 2018)

Jbower said:


> gatorglenn said:
> 
> 
> > Prowelder said:
> ...


 Pad is just a figure of speech for the application. In your case the keel.


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## Jbower (Mar 28, 2018)

Prowelder said:


> gatorglenn said:
> 
> 
> > Prowelder said:
> ...


Are you getting porpoising? I gained 2 mph with my 24 prop but need to raise the motor back up to gain some rpm but can hardly trim the motor without it bouncing. I put my trolling motor batteries up front to help and only did so much. It’s been cold and rainy here so I haven’t had much time to actually test and tune. I’m hoping raising the motor back up helps a lot 


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## gatorglenn (Mar 29, 2018)

Jbower said:


> Prowelder said:
> 
> 
> > gatorglenn said:
> ...


 Actually you are causing the porpoising, by putting the batteries up front. There is to much weight up there for the size motor and prop to pickup. These boat are weight sensitive. With there smaller hp combos. Your motor and prop is trying to pickup the bow when you trim out. And doesn’t have the power or bit to pickup the bow and hold it there. It try’s, and can for a few seconds and then looses bit and the bow falls. This is porpoising. Now if you want the weight up front. You have to set the boat up to run flat. No bow raise. This is accomplished by motor height and trimming out only to the point of level cav plate to level hull. Or otherwise known as neutral steering. So first tuck the motor under to come out of the hole. And trim out only till it starts to porpoises. Then trim down till it stops. Try to few the relation between the cav plate and top of the water. You want to move motor up till it’s flush or slightly under. From that point you work on prop size to get rpms in the max range for the motor. The boat will be slower but will driver great. Other then all this put 70% of weight in the boat behind your driver seat. And run the boat with a raised bow. Hope this helps. It is a lot to change The characteristics of a hull from One Direction to the other. But it’s all in how you want the boat to preform best with the way you have it set up.


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## Jbower (Mar 29, 2018)

gatorglenn said:


> Jbower said:
> 
> 
> > Prowelder said:
> ...


Well I understand your philosophy but I have more than enough hp and I tried weight in the rear and it was worse. I’ll play around with it some more and see what helps. Honestly I think the older bass tracker hills weren’t made for running 40+mph. It did the same with the old 45hp on it and raising the motor had helped some. Now I’m running a 6 inch setback with a 90 so there should be plenty of weight in the rear 


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## gatorglenn (Mar 29, 2018)

Jbower said:


> gatorglenn said:
> 
> 
> > Jbower said:
> ...




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## Prowelder (Apr 10, 2018)

Jbower said:


> Prowelder said:
> 
> 
> > gatorglenn said:
> ...


I got a 17pitch i just haven't had a chance to run it. 

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