# My First Boat Restoration



## AnglerC (Apr 30, 2016)

So today I started my first boat restoration. My boat is a 16' 1981 StarCraft Pike Master. I think the previous owner bought it to flip it and realized its not that easy and gave up. Anything electrical was cut 2" from it and all wiring was gone. Carpet was bad, a lot of overspray on rattle canned paint over areas that were not scuffed first. It had its issues. The hull however was tight with zero leaks from what I can tell. This boat was a gift so I'm working with what I have. I like it a lot so I want to fix it up nice like a lot of the projects I see here. So today I started. The transom has tons of holes in it that were filled with silicone and left. There are a few rotten spots and the splash well is all caulked up and a mess. Today I got the motor off and a chunk of plywood that was on the outside of the transom. Spacer maybe? Anyway I got the corner brackets off and removed some other screws and bolts. 

So I have some newbie questions.

First - I plan to fill all the holes with some brazing rods I bought at a boat show. They are called HTS-735-II Fluxless Brazing Rods. Has anyone ever used these? Are the effective? good? bad? 

Second - I need suggestions on how to keep the holes I want to fill separate from the holes I don't want to fill? Nothing would be worse then re-drilling holes I need to put the ob back on with. 

Third - What method should I use to treat and seal the new transom once I have it cut?

Forth - It looks like a lot of JB Weld has been used on the inside of the transom. How hard is that stuff to remove and what would be the best method to use?

So there's my first questions. I'll try to post some pix so you can see what I'm talking about. 

Thanks for your help

KC


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## AnglerC (Apr 30, 2016)

Here's what she looks like.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Apr 30, 2016)

Welcome to Tin Boats.
Don't using the brazing rods and never use pressure treated wood on an aluminum boat.
Have the holes mig or tig welded if they are below the waterline. Above the waterline JB weld works well. 
To seal the plywood for the transom there is a mix called the old timers formula. It's 1 part Spar Varnish or Spar Urethane, 1 part Boiled Linseed oil and 2 parts Mineral Spirts.


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## AnglerC (Apr 30, 2016)

Can I ask why to avoid the brazing rods? I cant afford to pay a welder to fill all of them. There's tons of them.


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## AnglerC (Apr 30, 2016)

One other question. How do you get those two splash well drains out?


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Apr 30, 2016)

The brazing rods are much harder to work with then they look, you could over heat the aluminum causing more damage. Talk to some welders get some quotes.
Lets see some pictures of the holes your working on.
The easiest way to remove the drains is to bend one edge in then twist it in on it's self with needle nose pliers.


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## AnglerC (May 1, 2016)

The transom issues.


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## AnglerC (May 1, 2016)

A few more. Just in the area the plywood was on the outside I counted 35 holes that need to be filled. Then on either side there are a tone of screws where they stuffed the hole with Silicone and screwed the screw back in.


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## AnglerC (May 1, 2016)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> The easiest way to remove the drains is to bend one edge in then twist it in on it's self with needle nose pliers.



Can they be reused?

If not where do I get new ones?


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (May 1, 2016)

That's a lot of holes. Luckily most are above the water line and small they can be filled with JB weld/water weld. As for the drains they can't be reused new ones can be found online get aluminum or plastic not the brass ones.


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## AnglerC (May 1, 2016)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> That's a lot of holes. Luckily most are above the water line and small they can be filled with JB weld/water weld. As for the drains they can't be reused new ones can be found online get aluminum or plastic not the brass ones.



Can JB Weld be sanded? I'd like a smooth finish if I can. And what is the technical name for those drains?


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## Al U Minium (May 1, 2016)

My experience with JB weld is you can sand it down, scrape it, and if you want to remove it - do it with lots of ventilation, heat an old screwdriver blade and stick it into the JB Weld. It will fall apart from the heat, don't heat the aluminum directly.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (May 1, 2016)

Yes JB weld can be sanded. 
What I do is take a counter sink bit and bevel the holes on the inside and outside of the hull. For the small holes I put some masking tape on the inside of the hull then apply the JB weld into the hole from the outside and cover with masking tape. On the bigger holes I make a backer of thin aluminum bigger than the hole. I back butter the backer and tape it over the hole on the inside of the hull. Then fill the hole from the outside and cover with masking tape. I customized a pair of 2 screw wood clamps the apply pressure to the backer.
JB weld putty is easier to use but not as strong.
The Drain tubes are Splash well drain tubes.


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## AnglerC (May 1, 2016)

Today's progress...


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## AnglerC (May 1, 2016)

This is the stuff I pulled out of the transom that wasn't needed or being used. The wood dowels were the best.


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## AnglerC (May 1, 2016)

This has me concerned. There was about a tube of caulk filling this gap between the slash well and the transom. Any thoughts or ideas of how I could repair that rather than fill it?


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (May 1, 2016)

The old transom is probably bowed out it should fit tighter with the new transom in place. It looks like someone reshaped one side of the transom.


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## AnglerC (May 1, 2016)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> The old transom is probably bowed out it should fit tighter with the new transom in place. It looks like someone reshaped one side of the transom.



I would agree. They completely redid the stern from the original. I didn't know that until I found a brochure with a picture of it. So I don't know if it's all going to meet up flush when I it back together.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (May 1, 2016)

I drilled 2 holes down into the transom wood and screwed in 2 long eye bolts then ran a chain to the eye bolts to pull the transom wood up.


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## AnglerC (May 1, 2016)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> I drilled 2 holes down into the transom wood and screwed in 2 long eye bolts then ran a chain to the eye bolts to pull the transom wood up.



That's a great idea!!!


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (May 1, 2016)

Most of the time pulling the old now swollen transom wood is a fight. Be sure you have all the bolts and the drain tubes out.
Good luck.


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## AnglerC (May 1, 2016)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> Most of the time pulling the old now swollen transom wood is a fight. Be sure you have all the bolts and the drain tubes out.
> Good luck.



That's tomorrow nights goal. But it is bone dry and rotted. I hope I can get it out in one piece.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (May 1, 2016)

In one piece it will make a good templet.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (May 1, 2016)

What are you going to make the new transom from?


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## AnglerC (May 2, 2016)

Aaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhh Sweet success!!! The closest it was to being sealed was the black paint used to cover up all the holes in the transom.


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## AnglerC (May 2, 2016)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> What are you going to make the new transom from?



I thought I'd just use 3/4" plywood and try real hard to get it as sealed as possible. I know I'm not suppose to use treated lumber.


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## AnglerC (May 2, 2016)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> In one piece it will make a good templet.



3 pieces... close enough. The wood is just falling apart in splinters.


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## AnglerC (May 2, 2016)

New questions. Rivets. There are several places that need to be riveted back together. Mainly the benches to hull. The guy bolted them to the hull instead. I don't know a thing about rivets or what to use. So any help would be great. 

I'm tearing into the deck next. I got the pedestal bases out and started taking the lids off the benches. He bolted then down too... and they are so rusted I'm having to drill the heads off. It's slow going.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (May 2, 2016)

AnglerC said:


> lckstckn2smknbrls said:
> 
> 
> > What are you going to make the new transom from?
> ...


How thick does the new transom need to be? 
You want exterior grade plywood, ACX is the best then there is BCX which is a great choice for a transom. The X means it's made with water proof glue thus exterior grade.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (May 2, 2016)

AnglerC said:


> lckstckn2smknbrls said:
> 
> 
> > In one piece it will make a good templet.
> ...


Make the new transom one piece.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (May 2, 2016)

AnglerC said:


> New questions. Rivets. There are several places that need to be riveted back together. Mainly the benches to hull. The guy bolted them to the hull instead. I don't know a thing about rivets or what to use. So any help would be great.
> 
> I'm tearing into the deck next. I got the pedestal bases out and started taking the lids off the benches. He bolted then down too... and they are so rusted I'm having to drill the heads off. It's slow going.


Solid aluminum rivets are the best but you have to buck them. All aluminum closed end blind rivets are good too. Above the water line all aluminum pop rivets are ok.


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## Kismet (May 2, 2016)

Angler?

you're doing good work.

It is a great project boat. Congratulations.


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## AnglerC (May 3, 2016)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> AnglerC said:
> 
> 
> > lckstckn2smknbrls said:
> ...



Thickness is 1-1/2".

ACX or BCX got it. 

Then you mentioned an old timers sealer? Can you give me a little more detail on that stuff and how it's applied and so on?


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## AnglerC (May 3, 2016)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> AnglerC said:
> 
> 
> > lckstckn2smknbrls said:
> ...




Yep... Agree with you there.


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## AnglerC (May 3, 2016)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> AnglerC said:
> 
> 
> > New questions. Rivets. There are several places that need to be riveted back together. Mainly the benches to hull. The guy bolted them to the hull instead. I don't know a thing about rivets or what to use. So any help would be great.
> ...




Will probably use the blind rivets. Don't have the money for all the tools that go with solid ones... Will stainless steel blind rivets work too?


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## AnglerC (May 3, 2016)

Kismet said:


> Angler?
> 
> you're doing good work.
> 
> It is a great project boat. Congratulations.



Thanks Kismet but I haven't really done anything yet... Demolition is easy. LOL... Compliment me when I'm painting her name on her. :mrgreen:


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (May 4, 2016)

Stainless steel is the least reactive of the dissimilar metals but generally cost more than the all aluminum rivets. 
2 layers of 3/4" exterior plywood glued with Titebond III or Gorilla glue or Titebonds version of Gorilla glue. I've used both and find TB3 easier to work with.
The transom I treated with the Old Times formula was 1-1/2" thick 60" long and 16" tall. I mixed up a quart of the old timers and had 6oz left over. You keep applying it until it pools up on the wood then wipe off the excess put plenty on the edges. Then let it dry for 72 hours then apply 2 coats of straight Spar. I painted mine to match my boat after the spar.

The Old Timers formula is. 
One part Spar varnish or Spar urethane, One part Boiled Linseed oil and two parts Mineral spirts.


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## AnglerC (May 4, 2016)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> Stainless steel is the least reactive of the dissimilar metals but generally cost more than the all aluminum rivets.
> 2 layers of 3/4" exterior plywood glued with Titebond III or Gorilla glue or Titebonds version of Gorilla glue. I've used both and find TB3 easier to work with.
> The transom I treated with the Old Times formula was 1-1/2" thick 60" long and 16" tall. I mixed up a quart of the old timers and had 6oz left over. You keep applying it until it pools up on the wood then wipe off the excess put plenty on the edges. Then let it dry for 72 hours then apply 2 coats of straight Spar. I painted mine to match my boat after the spar.
> 
> ...



Would I do the decking in the old timer's method too?


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (May 4, 2016)

Yes. 
I'd mix up a gallon of it. One quart each of Spar and Boiled Linseed oil and two quarts of Mineral spirts. 
If you don't have a gallon container you can mix smaller amounts and mix more as needed.


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## AnglerC (May 5, 2016)

Alright. Tonight progress was slow. I had to remove the switches from the control panel. But that is now out. The other benches are anchored with solid rivets. Do I just grind them off to get the benches out? or is there a trick? My goal is go have the deck out by the end of the weekend.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (May 10, 2016)

AnglerC said:


> Alright. Tonight progress was slow. I had to remove the switches from the control panel. But that is now out. The other benches are anchored with solid rivets. Do I just grind them off to get the benches out? or is there a trick? My goal is go have the deck out by the end of the weekend.


I drill a hole into the head of the river then take a sharp chisel and knock the head off the rivet then use a punch to clear the tail end of the rivet out of the hole.


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## AnglerC (May 20, 2016)

Okay... Progress. I got the deck out. The foam was full of water and a mess. I focused on the transom and all the holes it had. I filled them with Marine JB Weld and then sanded.. I'm very happy with the results. The holes in the hull above the waterline I filled with rivets. Next I'm going to fill a ton of holes along the upper rail, sand and then prime. Here's some pix of the progress.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (May 20, 2016)

There sure were a lot of holes.
It's looking much better, is the wood between the stringer pressure treated?


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## AnglerC (May 20, 2016)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> There sure were a lot of holes.
> It's looking much better, is the wood between the stringer pressure treated?



Some is and some isn't. I know its going to have to come out.


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## AnglerC (May 21, 2016)

Well it's primered. Today will be paint. And pick up plywood for decking and transom.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (May 21, 2016)

The transom skin looks so much better now that is primed, the whole boat does. 
Did you use self etching primer on any bare aluminum spots?
What brand primer and paint are you using?
Spray or roll and tip?


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## AnglerC (May 21, 2016)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> The transom skin looks so much better now that is primed, the whole boat does.
> Did you use self etching primer on any bare aluminum spots?
> What brand primer and paint are you using?
> Spray or roll and tip?



Primer - Omni MP17x Series Epoxy Primer. Guy guaranteed me it'll stick.
Paint - Omni MTK Acrylic Urethane Single Stage. Color Metallic Blue.
Applied with a $15.00 Paint Gun from Harbor Freight.

Went on extremely easy. Good stuff...


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## AnglerC (May 21, 2016)

Painted!!!! Off to Menards for wood...


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## AnglerC (May 22, 2016)

Transom is cut.


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## AnglerC (May 22, 2016)

Odd fit. I dry fitted the transom to make sure it fit and when I did it has this odd gap on outside of the transom. See the pics below. But if you are following this thread the old transom had an odd gap on the inside along the splash well. Any thoughts?


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## AnglerC (May 22, 2016)

Now this old timers sealer concoction. Apply it once until it will no longer penetrate and then let it dry for 3 days? Or add a coat, let dry, add another coat, let dry and repeat until it will no longer penetrate and then let it dry for 3 days?


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (May 22, 2016)

Apply it once let it soak in is how I did it. I drilled all the holes first, the bolts were 1/4" I made the holes 5/16" so the old timers could soak in to the holes and when you apply the straight spar some will get into the holes making them a little smaller. 
When you bolt the transom together the skin should pull up the wood.


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## AnglerC (May 23, 2016)

Decking is cut... Time for sealer and carpet...


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## AnglerC (May 31, 2016)

New issue. As I wait for the wood sealer to dry I'm focusing on getting rid of all the treated bracing on the bottom of the boat and replacing it with steel. Couldn't find aluminum. Things were going fine till I reached the bow of the boat. On top there was a chewed up gnarly board that span across the bow and then a small triangular deck was on top where the navigation light went. That span is no longer as wide as it used to be. It's about a half inch narrower. I have no clue what happened or how to fix it. My computer is acting up so bear with me. I'll try to post some pix.


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## AnglerC (May 31, 2016)

Some pix


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (May 31, 2016)

Without any structure the sides of the hull have moved in. You will have to push the sides out. Some types of beam /bar clamps can be set to push things apart.


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## AnglerC (May 31, 2016)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> Without any structure the sides of the hull have moved in. You will have to push the sides out. Some types of beam /bar clamps can be set to push things apart.



Gotcha. It's going to have to wait till tomorrow. Its getting dark. I'll keep you posted.


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## AnglerC (Jun 13, 2016)

Progress over the last couple weeks. After decking removed. Treated lumber removed. Steel trusses put in.


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## AnglerC (Jun 13, 2016)

Pink insulation installed.


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## AnglerC (Jun 13, 2016)

Transom holes for livewell drain and fill pump.


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## AnglerC (Jun 13, 2016)

Livewell tubing run, Decking installed


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## AnglerC (Jun 13, 2016)

Livewell connections made...


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## AnglerC (Jun 13, 2016)

Transom wood going in but not anchored yet.


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## AnglerC (Jun 13, 2016)

Need your vote or opinion. Blue carpet or Grey???


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## Fire1386 (Jun 14, 2016)

Grey for a bit of contrast...


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Jun 14, 2016)

Fire1386 said:


> Grey for a bit of contrast...


+1


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## doug.davidson.86 (Jun 14, 2016)

I like the blue. Everyone has grey.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## RockinD (Jun 14, 2016)

Blue will be hotter.


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## BigDan (Jun 14, 2016)

I'm new to tinboats and just saw this thread, nice job so far. 

Grey gets my vote for carpet.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## AnglerC (Jun 15, 2016)

I'm leaning toward Grey too. I know every other boat has it too but I like the contrast break between the two colors. Thanks for the help guys.


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## Hanr3 (Jun 15, 2016)

Looking much better then when you brought it home. Keep it up.


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## AnglerC (Jun 16, 2016)

Okay. Carpet is in. I think it looks pretty good.


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## AnglerC (Jun 16, 2016)

Transom is in too.


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## AnglerC (Jun 16, 2016)

Transom cap...


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## Hanr3 (Jun 16, 2016)

Looking good!!! =D> 

Thanks for the pics on the thru hull drain tubes. Good to know in case I rebuild another boat. #-o


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Jun 17, 2016)

Way back when you started the rebuild the transom skin was bowing out. Has that issue gone away?


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## AnglerC (Jun 17, 2016)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> Way back when you started the rebuild the transom skin was bowing out. Has that issue gone away?



Yep... Once I started installing all the bolts it all sucked right I'm very pleased with how it turned out.


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## AnglerC (Jun 17, 2016)

Hanr3 said:


> Looking good!!! =D>
> 
> Thanks for the pics on the thru hull drain tubes. Good to know in case I rebuild another boat. #-o



That little flaring tool is spendy but worth every penny. Made putting in those tubes a breeze.


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## AnglerC (Jun 18, 2016)

Today's progress...


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## AnglerC (Jun 18, 2016)

Benches....


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## AnglerC (Jun 18, 2016)

Rod locker...


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## AnglerC (Jun 18, 2016)

Control Panel...


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## AnglerC (Jun 19, 2016)

Benches, Rod Locker and Control Box are in...


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## Hanr3 (Jun 19, 2016)

Great progress.

Lost of holes to patch, wow!


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## Happyrocker02 (Jun 20, 2016)

Looking good! Keep the pics coming!


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## AnglerC (Jun 29, 2016)

Progress on the upper casting deck. Progress has been way slower than I would like but progress none the less.


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## AnglerC (Jun 29, 2016)

Framing


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## AnglerC (Jun 29, 2016)

Decking


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## beagler1 (Jun 29, 2016)

Looking good! Ill be starting my casting deck extension this coming month!!


Sent from Mossy Oak Swamp Bottom


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## stomper (Jun 29, 2016)

WOW you're doing a heck of a job on that boat. Looks great. One would never know it was your first time rebuilding a boat. What kind of live well is that and where did you pick up.


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## BigDan (Jun 30, 2016)

I'd also like to know where you snagged that livewell from. It'd be nice to have one like that in my boat. 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## AnglerC (Jun 30, 2016)

stomper said:


> WOW you're doing a heck of a job on that boat. Looks great. One would never know it was your first time rebuilding a boat. What kind of live well is that and where did you pick up.





BigDan said:


> I'd also like to know where you snagged that livewell from. It'd be nice to have one like that in my boat.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk



Funny you guys should mention that livewell. It was a major pain to deal with but now that it's done I'm glad I did it. I found it here. https://greatlakesskipper.com/lund-...ly-marine-boat-livewell-baitwell-tank-2005571 There's 2 left get them while they're hot. A word of advice... When I ordered it, it is considered an oversize package An oversize package that weighs maybe 20 pounds. If that... anyway they were going to gouge me $148.00 in shipping. I told them that's almost the same price as the tank!!! I told them never mind. That was on a Saturday. I called again on Monday and asked the weekday staff if they could do better on the shipping. They came back with $53.00. I'll take it. 

But when I got it I discovered it didn't fit. I measured the boat twice!!! I just didn't take into account that the boat is a DEEP V... Duuuuuhhhhhh "V"??? I'm an idiot... Anyway after everything Great Lake Skipper had done to help me I wasn't about send it back. Plus I loved it... It just didn't fit. So... I chopped it and welded it back together. I showed that one on this thread - https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=40820 Read up... I learned a ton doing that mod. 

The fittings came from Flow Rite. They have a really cool livewell builder at https://flow-rite.com/marine/livewell-builder The fittings were worth every penny. Went together like a breeze...

Let me know what you guys think.


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## AnglerC (Jun 30, 2016)

Here's my next adventure... I don't even know where to start. LOL....


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Jul 1, 2016)

That's a lot of red wire.
I'd buy rolls of wire in several different colors


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## AnglerC (Jul 2, 2016)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> That's a lot of red wire.
> I'd buy rolls of wire in several different colors




LOL... The grounds are in there they just don't show up very well in the pic.


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## AnglerC (Jul 2, 2016)

Today's progress... Been at it since 5:30am...


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## AnglerC (Jul 3, 2016)

Well... Today was stressful... I learned some very vital life lessons when it comes to 12 volts. I would post pictures but the smoke that came out of the switch panel was gone before I could get my camera out plus I was busy trying to put out the fire. I connected my battery and flipped the master switch. That's when things started smoking and melting and cracking a popping. In the end I burned the insulation off the main lead from the battery to the panel and melted the terminals out of the switch. So I spent the day trouble shooting what wire I got crossed the shorted the whole system. Then it was repair and replace everything I burned up. Long day... I'm going to go have some beers now.


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## Riverman (Jul 3, 2016)

Always put an inline master fuse in the positive side near the battery.


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## Hanr3 (Jul 3, 2016)

Ops, never let the smoke out. Once its out, you can't put it back in...


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## AnglerC (Jul 4, 2016)

Hanr3 said:


> Ops, never let the smoke out. Once its out, you can't put it back in...




OMG... I thought I was the only one that knew about the magic smoke!!! Yeah once it out you can't get it back in that's for sure... And no electric component will would without the magic smoke. I was going to tell it that way but wasn't sure anyone would get it. LOL... And boy did I let out a lot of magic smoke...


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## AnglerC (Jul 4, 2016)

Riverman said:


> Always put an inline master fuse in the positive side near the battery.




Yep... LOL... It does now...


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## stomper (Jul 4, 2016)

AnglerC said:


> stomper said:
> 
> 
> > WOW you're doing a heck of a job on that boat. Looks great. One would never know it was your first time rebuilding a boat. What kind of live well is that and where did you pick up.
> ...




Your $148 shipping is a lot better than my $269 shipping. That's just from their site calculator. I guess I should probably call them.


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## Kismet (Jul 4, 2016)

AnglerC said:


> Kismet said:
> 
> 
> > Angler?
> ...




OK, now...waaaay back on May 2nd, I told you that you were doing great work, and....(drum-roll please)...see how clairvoyant I was?

Look at the progress! Just imagine how good it might have been if you hadn't let the smoke out. 




Nice job. =D>


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## Hanr3 (Jul 5, 2016)

Letting the smoke out is a term we use in the electrical, electronic industry. Pretty universal term. Has some other applications in the testing industry too, like for clutches, brakes, etc.


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## AnglerC (Jul 6, 2016)

stomper said:


> Your $148 shipping is a lot better than my $269 shipping. That's just from their site calculator. I guess I should probably call them.



Ouch stomper... The shipping calculator wouldn't even attempt a fee for me. Went straight to telling me I had to call them. That was on a Saturday. Called them on Monday and spoke with a woman. She made things happen. So call during the week. Not the weekend. 

Good luck.

Oh and if your looking for the bait bucket that will fit that tank let me and I'll post the link to where I found that for $15.00.


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## AnglerC (Jul 6, 2016)

Kismet said:


> OK, now...waaaay back on May 2nd, I told you that you were doing great work, and....(drum-roll please)...see how clairvoyant I was?
> 
> Look at the progress! Just imagine how good it might have been if you hadn't let the smoke out.
> 
> Nice job. =D>



Okay Kismet. Today I will take a bow. =) Thanks for the complement. I am pleased with how it's turning out. It's just been real hard getting there.


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## AnglerC (Jul 6, 2016)

Hanr3 said:


> Letting the smoke out is a term we use in the electrical, electronic industry. Pretty universal term. Has some other applications in the testing industry too, like for clutches, brakes, etc.



My brother is in the car restoration business and says whenever someone comes in with a car component they have fried he tells them that have let out the magic smoke and it is going to cost extra to put it back in.


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## murphy67 (Aug 9, 2017)

Just got through all 8 pages of your build and just gotta say great work! Wondering if you have made any further updates after your wiring troubles? (I do realize this thread is a year old...but with that amount of work, I cant imagine the project was abandon...so i would love to see it finished and such.)

Thanks


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## AnglerC (Dec 28, 2017)

murphy67 said:


> Just got through all 8 pages of your build and just gotta say great work! Wondering if you have made any further updates after your wiring troubles? (I do realize this thread is a year old...but with that amount of work, I cant imagine the project was abandon...so i would love to see it finished and such.)
> 
> Thanks



Murphy... Murphy. Murphy. Murphy. Is a boat ever done? LOL... I always tell the wife a boat is a hole in the water that you throw money in. She hates that saying. 

However yes this last summer I had a great time continuing to tweak my boat. I added a custom made boat cover from Top Gun Boat Covers https://topgunboatcovers.com/. I bought, but have not added custom switches https://rockerswitchpros.com/replacing the ones I burned up in my wiring incident. LOL... I then added a Terrova Trolling Motor to the bow and wired it for 24 volt. I also bout the Connectors to simplify my battery connections each year. I was inspired by Connect Ease https://connect-ease.com/ However I contacted the manufacturer directly and made my own. https://www.andersonpower.com/us/en/products/sb-sb-boots/index.aspx

Spent the rest of the time fishing. LOL... 

I'll tinker some more this spring before the opener.


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