# 6 Gallon fuel tank



## 03sp500 (Jul 18, 2013)

Hello everyone. Im a newbie. I love this site and have learned an awful lot already, I hope to be able to contribute to it as well as I go. 

I just got a Sea Nymph 14R with a 15 hp Johnson last weekend. very happy with what I got. The gentleman was very nice to deal with, he gave me a metal fuel tank that I think is original with the motor. I would like to switch to a plastic 6 gallon tank. I went to westmarine and they have a deal on a Attwood "low permeation" tank. doing a little check I found that some people say its not the tank to get. I would have to buy a new style hose with a pressure regulator built in and special tank connectors which puts the price at about 125.00 (tank is 44.69). I can surf the net and find regular tanks for about 50.00. 

So my question is (yes there is a question) has anyone else ran into this issue and what does everyone think about this new type tank?.


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## MOE (Jul 18, 2013)

Never heard of that style before. I went to Academy and bought a 6 gal (probably Attwood) a few years ago. Check with them.


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## MOE (Jul 18, 2013)

https://www.academy.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_10051_586253_-1__?N=574973169

This tank does not come with a fitting for the fuel line because different motors (johnson versus yamaha etc.) take different fittings but I think the are 5 or 10 bucks. If your fuel line is really old, you may want to replace it too. Now those cost almost as much as a tank.


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## FerrisBueller (Jul 18, 2013)

I too have the tank that Moe linked and I haven't had or heard any issues with it. It's nice because it fits under my rear deck. 

Can you explain the reason people are saying it's not the one to get?


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## 03sp500 (Jul 18, 2013)

From what I have read people are saying that the cap only vents after 5psi build up. one gguy said sitting in the sun light fuel started sprayiong into the engine from the pressure (that seemed odd) they said a special hose is needed that has some sort of pressure regulaor in it. I understand the different fittings the hose assembly I havce is still very good. the fitting on my metal tank is fine and should transfer nicely. this whole buying a 65.00 hose and a "special" universal connector for the tank to hose connection is what is gettin g me.

I read this review 

Danger, Will Robinson! 
These are non-venting tanks. You will have to use special aviation sealant, a special in-line pressure regulator and have lots of luck to get these temperamental tanks to simply operate.
I purchased two of these tanks last month. They have caused me NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS! These crazy tanks OVERPRESSURE the engines fuel system and spill gas all over the place. I know these are EPA compliant, BUT SO WHAT, I REALLY DON'T CARE! As a boater I want/demand a fuel system that is reliable. A simple and well designed gas tank is an essential component to achieving a reliable fuel system. This Rube Goldberg version of a gas tank has so many specialized components that there's a lot that can and DOES go wrong. These tanks have spilled more gas in the past month, than I've spilled in forty years of boating. 
One of my tanks completely over pressurized and spewed its entire contents into my boat. Pools of fuel stream from the engine into the lake during every start because the tanks over pressurize the carb.(My motors are both two stroke, Yamahas; 5hp and 25HP).
If you want reliability, stay away from this piece of JUNK. Obviously the folks at the EPA aren't Boater's. And too bad that the mariners at West Marine didn't do a better job of vetting these ventless tanks. If you're on your way to buy one, allow me to save you a trip, as West Marine only carries this one brand of tank.

there is also a video from west marine I will try to find and post next


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## FerrisBueller (Jul 18, 2013)

While in operation I dont see how there would be a large build up of pressure, and I have noticed that pressure does build up inside the tank. The way I fix this is by loosening the cap and relieving the pressure before operation. I haven't noticed any problems with how I do it. If you are worried about pressure build up while not in use could one not simply leave the cap a little loose? Maybe it's not the ideal solution but I havent noticed any huge issues.


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## JGibson (Jul 18, 2013)

How many gallons is the metal one? Why not just use it? I have a 6 gallon metal tank in my boat, no probs with it yet...


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## 03sp500 (Jul 18, 2013)

The metal tank is 6 gallons I just dont know how rusty it is inside it looks very old. I was gonna actually get the plastic one and see if an older cap might fit. If not then loosing the cap may be the way to go.


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## lowe1648 (Jul 18, 2013)

Keep a eye on craigslist. I picked up a plastic 9 gal tank for $25 a few weeks ago.


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## hotshotinn (Jul 18, 2013)

When i traded offf my junk 40hp Johnson for a new Yamaha I kept the metal gas tank.i changed the moter end to a Yamaha end and went from there.Just keep you metal tank till you need a new one.Those metal tanks are better than the plastic ones in my opinion.if i need a newone someday I will then buy a plastic


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## Rich27028 (Jul 19, 2013)

sitting in the sun they do puff up. i drilled a 1/8 hole in the top - seemes to be enough to relive the pressure - and it vents when the motor is running - 5o horse Honda--


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Jul 19, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=322912#p322912 said:


> Rich27028 » Fri Jul 19, 2013 7:33 am[/url]"]sitting in the sun they do puff up. i drilled a 1/8 hole in the top - seemes to be enough to relive the pressure - and it vents when the motor is running - 5o horse Honda--


By "TOP" do you mean the cap?


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## MOE (Jul 19, 2013)

I just looked again at the one I linked. It is different than the one I bought a few years ago. The one I have, has a vented cap.


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## JMichael (Jul 19, 2013)

A couple of months ago someone posted this link and I put it in my favorites with the intent of buying one this year. I think I'll have to pass on it now though as when I saved this link, the price on this metal tank was $50 but I guess someone decided they weren't charging enough or that the consumers were desperate enough to pay more. 
https://greatlakesskipper.com/en_us/custom-6-gallon-steel-vented-marine-boat-gas-tank-w-fuel-gauge


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## FerrisBueller (Jul 19, 2013)

Yeah that sure seems pricey for a metal tank. I think with a little searching around on CL one would be able to find one much cheaper.


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## Kismet (Jul 19, 2013)

Welcome, and congratulations.

Stop right there. 

You just got the rig. Your current tank is fine. While I understand and appreciate, AND share :? , the compulsion to buy stuff for it, don't fix it if it ain't broke.

Use the boat/ motor/ tank...and meander through craig's list over the rest of the summer...then, if you really really need to, buy another tank.

I'm pretty sure after a few weeks or months of using it, you'll have a list of stuff you want to do/buy/modify.

Have fun, be safe.


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## 03sp500 (Jul 19, 2013)

Kismet I totally agree with you on that. I looked in the metal tank last night due to everyone saying use the metal tank. Half way up the tank on the top is a lot os rust looks like it sat with only 1/2 tank. 

But on with the good news, I went back to West Marine to look at the tank again and while I was there another guy looked at me looking at the tank and said "you need a tank but dont want to buy a new one like that right" I chuckled and said how'd ya know. he said that 44.99 for the tank was a good dealthen reached up and took off a hook a replacement gas cap and handed it to me. he said I did this. looking at the cap it says for use with pre 2010 tanks. its got a vent and it fits great. 9.49 for the cap. done deal.


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## MOE (Jul 19, 2013)

There you go. Didn't think about buying a cap separately.


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## marshman (Jul 19, 2013)

i just went through all this myself...

i remember being able to buy a plastic 6 gallon tank for like 20 bucks!! 

i looked 3 different places... a boat dealership, academy and walmart...ended up getting it at walmart for $45..... i HATE the fact that they are not vented... i will be looking for a vented cap...screw the EPA... i dont want my tank swelling up...i did notice however that the tank says that pressure building is designed in to the tank...

i will add....if you need a fuel line, get one now...based on experience i never skimp on fuel lines and fittings..at the dealership service department the guy gave me 2 options for a fuel line...35 bucks for the lat one that he had on the shelf... he said after that all hes got is the new federally mandated super duper special something or another bright blue hose for 65 bucks!!! i asked him if i should have any concerns with the 35 dollar one...he said absolutely not, its what he would use...

sidenote...not sure what it is but the fuel lines, primer bulbs, and fittings cost me a tourney one time... my motor would not run for crap...just had the motor serviced, ran fine... long story short, swapped out to a mercury brand fuel line and fittings, it ran fine........ ever since then i am a firm believer in you get what you pay for...so i choose to pay a little more for the fuel line...now, the tank on the other hand i havent used it yet and i hate it!!! i will be searching for a better tank but i needed a tank now...


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## marshman (Jul 19, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=322959#p322959 said:


> MOE » 19 Jul 2013, 13:18[/url]"]There you go. Didn't think about buying a cap separately.



=D> =D>


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## 03sp500 (Jul 20, 2013)

Marshman rom what I understand walmart gas tanks are made by Attwood and so is West Marines tanks, If you have a west marine or any boat stuff store look for older replacement caps. I filled it last nice and no worries. My hose says OMC on it and looks pretty good shape but I agree with you get what you pay for.


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## Kismet (Jul 20, 2013)

OK:

Rust in the tank. This is from a motorcycle forum, RIDING OUT LOUD, by a buy nic'd Motoman. I stole for you. 
I've done similar things to old motorcycle gas tanks.

Enjoy:

_Removing Rust From A Motorcycle Gas TankOne of the most common problems with buying used motorcycles and certainly ones that have been sitting for a while is rust in the gas tank.

If this rust is not removed or sealed it will continually clog your fuel filter and carbs. This will cause you to be unhappy and on foot.

Now, you can buy a sealer that coats the inside of the tank isolating the rust from the fuel. When done properly these work just dandy. The problem is that many times the coatings flake or peal and become as big a problem as the rust itself.

I prefer to remove the rust. It is a bit of a project but not that difficult to do. This is how I did it on my 1986 Kawasaki project.

First remove the tank from the bike. Then I removed the petcock and fuel sender. I sealed the resulting mounting holes by cutting out a gasket from an old inner tube and sandwiching it between the tank and a small piece plywood held in place by using the mounting bolts or sealing with duct tape. My seal was not perfect so I did the following steps involving liquid over a plastic muck bucket to contain any leakage.

Using acid is the most common method to clean a tank but I found a product called Vapo-rust that contains no acid or solvent so it is less hazardous and disposal is not an issue. This stuff is so effective that the Army uses it to remove rust from battle tanks.

Now with my fuel tank I had both rust and pealing sealer to deal with so I needed some way to clean off the loose sealer and rust. I did this by pouring 4000 BBs into the tank and shaking it for several minutes. This beat off all of the loose sealer and rust without damaging the tank. I have also heard of people using a few hundred small hex nuts to do the same thing but the BBs cost a lot less.

Most of the BBs will just pour out of the tank when you are finished however a magnet on a teliscoping handle is helpful for get the last stuborn few out.

At this point I rinsed the tank out with water, this removes the rust and sealer that you just knocked off with the BBs.

After draining the water pour in a 1/2 gallon of vapo-rust. Leave this in the tank for a couple of hours, turning the tank every 15 to 20 minutes so as to expose the entire interior of the tank to the chemical.

Next drain the tank and reassemble the parts that you removed and remount the tank. This would be a good time to put on a new fuel filter.

It is possible on a tank that was severly rusted that cleaning that out may open up small pin hole leaks. so put a small amount of fuel in and keep a sharp eye out for any signs of leaks. If all appears dry filler up.

I add a half of a can of Sea Foam to my first tank of gas (if you haven't heard of Sea Foam it's been around for about 60 years and is the best in my opinion for cleaning your fuel system including removing varnish and contaminates from carburetors ). That's really all there is to it.

Please be mindful you are working with a fuel tank here so don't do this around any open flames.

That's it_.


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## sawmill (Jul 21, 2013)

A steel boat gas tank should be very easy to clean. I have several old tractors and have cleaned the tanks on them with a piece of chain and paint thinner. Just add in the tank and roll the chain around. The first one I did I was told to use rocks and that was a big mistake as it still has some rocks in it behind the baffle. I have heard of some using bolts and nuts and shake the tank with them in it and they said you can use a magnet, have you ever tried to take a magnet and pick up something off a piece of steel. As for the hose and fitting. I had a problem with the fitting that was sold by Walmart and couple of other place. These I think were made by AttWood. They did not fit. Everything hooked up fine but they did not fit tight and would starve the motor for gas. Switched to a factory fitting and problem solved


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## 03sp500 (Jul 21, 2013)

I have 49 cub and had to use a lenght of chain to clean that. Its a big tank. I did the best I could but the sediment bowl still has some junk to this day that keeps coming out of the tank. I'll clean this tank and use it as a backup.


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## marshman (Jul 21, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=323091#p323091 said:


> sawmill » 21 Jul 2013, 06:19[/url]"]As for the hose and fitting. I had a problem with the fitting that was sold by Walmart and couple of other place. These I think were made by AttWood. They did not fit. Everything hooked up fine but they did not fit tight and would starve the motor for gas. Switched to a factory fitting and problem solved



i had the same results...


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## jethro (Jul 26, 2013)

For a metal tank, I know this from restoring motorcycles, go to Home depot and buy Behr Concrete Etcher. It's phosphoric acid and will probably cost you $20 for a gallon. like the post above, an old chain or a pile of nuts and bolts will do the trick. Put them in the tank, and fill with a gallon of the phosphoric acid, then add a gallon of cold water. Seal the filler and the fuel output. Shake around for a few minutes, then let it sit for a half hour. Then shake for a few minutes, leave it sitting on it's side for another half hour. Repeat for all four sides and the top, then drain and rinse the tank. You'll find the phosphoric acid reacts with the rust and neutralizes it. To dry it out I leave a shop vac on blower setting with the hose in the tank for a few hours.


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## lovedr79 (Jul 26, 2013)

There is a 3 step kit you can get at most bike shops called crem tank restore. It's awesome I have used it many times on older bikes I have fixed that had a rusted tank. Pour the acid in, etch the rust out, rinse and dry, pour in the rubber. Make sure the inside gets coated. I think the last kit I bought was $25.


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