# 12' Springbok Ghetto "Repair"



## TC1OZ (Apr 22, 2010)

First I would like to say "Hello Everyone". My names Terrance. I am a fishing addict who was looking for a cheap aluminum banger to get me out on a few ponds and rivers.

From reading other peoples mods and repairs... I have gathered some interesting ideas.

Here are the sale pictures of the boat :
































I will update this thread as the repair process takes place.

First step will be to clean it up and check where the leaks are.

Try to rebuck any rivets that have leaks.

I plan on using Muggy Weld to make sure any of the previous patches are properly sealed (rather than using caulk). Maybe even use along some of the seams that are really dinged up.

Then use the steelflex tinted black to paint the outside of the boat.

Then perhaps later on down the road do some work on the inside. I will update with pictures as the process takes place.

Thanks everyone for your information as I'm sure I'll need more as the process gets underway!


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## Troutman3000 (Apr 22, 2010)

Just get that plate welded up and your good. Maybe just steelflex, but thats a big patch job.


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## wasilvers (Apr 22, 2010)

I wouldn't say it's in terrible shape... it does float (for a while anyway).

Looks like some of the rivets were replaced with 'pop' rivets, which will leak. You can probablly pull off all the old cauking and rebuck any leaks on the sides. The patch looks bad, but if it is welded or riveted on, it should be solid. 

If you aren't leaving the boat in the water all the time, just using it for day trips, it should be great!


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## TC1OZ (Apr 22, 2010)

wasilvers said:


> I wouldn't say it's in terrible shape... it does float (for a while anyway).
> 
> Looks like some of the rivets were replaced with 'pop' rivets, which will leak. You can probablly pull off all the old cauking and rebuck any leaks on the sides. The patch looks bad, but if it is welded or riveted on, it should be solid.
> 
> If you aren't leaving the boat in the water all the time, just using it for day trips, it should be great!




I don't have any tools for riveting / have no idea what I'm doing in that department.

I definitely don't plan on leaving it in the water, only while I'm in it haha. I plan on mostly using it for day trips around the Niagara Region. And when I use it at the cottage I plan on just pulling it up the beach if I'm not puttering around the island.

I'm really hoping I can get away with cleaning up all the useless caulking, getting it all clean and scraped up, and then put some steelflex on it.

I plan on replacing the transom wood with this plastic type material used for cutting boards. (Many people have recommended this as it doesn't rot and serves the purpose.)

I'm hoping the above is enough to keep the water out for a day of fishing!

Thanks for the post!


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## Lunker777 (Apr 22, 2010)

Welcome aboard TC10Z !!!! I see you took my advice and joined the forum ! hahah its a must when fixin up a tinny !!!! 

You posted a few more pics on here then you did on OFN ! Hopefully you can get away with that patch job.... like the others said... if your not leaving it in the water, you should be fine.... just have a good bailing bucket with you ! haha 

Good Luck man ! Keep us posted !


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## TC1OZ (Apr 22, 2010)

Lunker777 said:


> Welcome aboard TC10Z !!!! I see you took my advice and joined the forum ! hahah its a must when fixin up a tinny !!!!
> 
> You posted a few more pics on here then you did on OFN ! Hopefully you can get away with that patch job.... like the others said... if your not leaving it in the water, you should be fine.... just have a good bailing bucket with you ! haha
> 
> Good Luck man ! Keep us posted !



hahaha OFN is full of information. Just not sure how much of it is any good.

After checking out the link you sent me, and seeing all the successful projects along the lines of what I was thinking... I figured this place would be more receptive to what I'm trying to accomplish!

I'm sure I could take it out as is... but for $150 bucks to make it look new... why not?


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Apr 22, 2010)

Bilge Pump


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## BaitCaster (Apr 22, 2010)

Doesn't look that bad. Riveting is easy - just go to Home Depot and buy a cheap rivet gun.


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## TC1OZ (Apr 22, 2010)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> Bilge Pump



My hopes are that cleaning it up and sealing it from the outside would stop me from needing a bilge pump. Lots of people are telling me to just use it as is and deal with the water. I only paid 200$ for it and the steelflex is only going to cost me about $50-60 (depending on the dollar lol). Plus the cost of replacing the transom. I think the extra effort of sealing it will make it that much better of a boat (and the black steel flex will change the look of the boat and hide the HORRIBLE caulking job)



BaitCaster said:


> Doesn't look that bad. Riveting is easy - just go to Home Depot and buy a cheap rivet gun.



For the job I'm trying to accomplish do you think re-riveting is even remotely worth it? I mean the boat is pretty badly dinged up, I think the only way to fix it is to just get something in the cracks that will harden and seal it up? If it wasn't in such a rough shape with that giant square patch, circle patch, and gun shot hole in the bottom I would put more effort into the boat!


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## zackn (Apr 22, 2010)

Hi Terrance, I'm new to the board as well. Looks like you and I have very similar boats, at pretty much the same stage of restoration (I posted a new thread just now with a few lousy pictures). My boat had no markings, but I wonder if I have the same make as you, it sure looks about the same.

I'm interested to keep up with how you fare with your work. I had (have) concerns that I'm wasting my time as well, but it sounds like from the replies here than I might not be.

--Zack


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## TC1OZ (Apr 22, 2010)

zackn said:


> Hi Terrance, I'm new to the board as well. Looks like you and I have very similar boats, at pretty much the same stage of restoration (I posted a new thread just now with a few lousy pictures). My boat had no markings, but I wonder if I have the same make as you, it sure looks about the same.
> 
> I'm interested to keep up with how you fare with your work. I had (have) concerns that I'm wasting my time as well, but it sounds like from the replies here than I might not be.
> 
> --Zack



I was told by many people that for what I paid for the boat its not a waste of money. I'm really hoping they are right hahaha. I wont have too much to update on my build now until I get the steelflex. (Hopefully your boat doesn't have as many ghetto patches/leak proofed with caulking)

Maybe I'll pressure wash it and get the wire grinder out this weekend to take some nicer shots. I was debating painting the inside but I think I'll just leave it as is.


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## zackn (Apr 22, 2010)

For my boat, I'm not going to get into replacing rivets. It doesn't seem worth the time or cost. My plan, after stripping down to bare aluminum, is to rebuck the all rivets with a couple hammers. Sounds like that has pretty good results. Then I might try 3M 5200 Marine Sealant on the rivets and seams, and then going over that with Gluvit on inside and out. Then primer and paint on top of that. I don't know if that's the best way to go, but seems like a viable option from what I've read.

--Zack


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## TC1OZ (Apr 22, 2010)

zackn said:


> For my boat, I'm not going to get into replacing rivets. It doesn't seem worth the time or cost. My plan, after stripping down to bare aluminum, is to rebuck the all rivets with a couple hammers. Sounds like that has pretty good results. Then I might try 3M 5200 Marine Sealant on the rivets and seams, and then going over that with Gluvit on inside and out. Then primer and paint on top of that. I don't know if that's the best way to go, but seems like a viable option from what I've read.
> 
> --Zack



I wish I could get away with that, but I think my boat needs the entire thing coated!


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## zackn (Apr 22, 2010)

Do you know how Gluvit compares to SteelFlex? Do they accomplish different things? I heard the Gluvit will seep into seams and keeps a flexible bond so it won't crack when the hull of the boat flexes, which I liked. Haven't looked into SteelFlex much.


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## TC1OZ (Apr 22, 2010)

zackn said:


> Do you know how Gluvit compares to SteelFlex? Do they accomplish different things? I heard the Gluvit will seep into seams and keeps a flexible bond so it won't crack when the hull of the boat flexes, which I liked. Haven't looked into SteelFlex much.



Hummm. Sounds like its the exact same as Steelflex...but I have no idea!

I smell me starting a new topic... NOW!


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## zackn (Apr 22, 2010)

What size motor are you thinking of putting on your boat? I'd like to get as much power as I can, and I'm pondering a 9.9hp 2-stroke. But I wonder if it might be too much for my transom? I'm going to try to reinforce the transom as much as I can, but the boat over all is pretty lightweight. This is my first boat, so I don't have any point of reference other than research online.


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## TC1OZ (Apr 22, 2010)

zackn said:


> What size motor are you thinking of putting on your boat? I'd like to get as much power as I can, and I'm pondering a 9.9hp 2-stroke. But I wonder if it might be too much for my transom? I'm going to try to reinforce the transom as much as I can, but the boat over all is pretty lightweight. This is my first boat, so I don't have any point of reference other than research online.



I'm only planning on using a trolling motor! I just want to take it on ponds, rivers, and small lakes. But I would like anything under 10 HP so I don't have to license it, but that's a dream/not in my budget.


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## bAcKpAiN (Apr 22, 2010)

Welcome to the forum guys!
The boat doesn't look too bad to me, I would sure it up as well as I could, and make sure I had a good bige pump in there.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Apr 22, 2010)

Don't worry about the bullet hole. Those are for letting water out.


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## TC1OZ (Apr 22, 2010)

is lock stock always so friendly?


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Apr 22, 2010)

TC1OZ said:


> is lock stock always so friendly?


Welcome to the site!


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## bassboy1 (Apr 22, 2010)

The bad news is, yeah, that is pretty ugly. The good news is that it won't be too hard a fix.

You've got two options, "fix" it, or repair it.

To "fix" it, you go grab a tube of real cheap silicone, and blob it on wherever water comes through. 

To repair it, the process is a little more complex, but not hard.
First, remove the old patch completely. Remove all the goop. Chances are, if that much goop was needed, the patch is a poor fit, and you'll likely have to redo it. See what the hole looks like. Then, find you another piece of aluminum, .063 - .080 range, cut it to shape, where it overlaps the hole, round off the corners, then roll it around something (piece of pipe, bucket, whatever you have laying around), to match the radius of the hole. Clamp the piece to the hull. Now, break out the drill, and start drilling your holes (I'd be using 3/16 rivets, in this case). This an excellent use for cleco fasteners, but unless you do a little more metalworking than the average joe, you probably don't have these. Bolts will be a good substitute. Just as you get a hole drilled, put a bolt or something in it, to assure that all will line up. Space your holes about 1 - 1.25" on center. 

Once you've drilled around the perimeter, pop the piece off, and debur all the metal. Here is where you have two options. 1st is to use pop rivets, and the second is to use solid rivets, like the boat has. For pop rivets, all you need is a 20 dollar rivet gun from Lowes or Home Depot. For solid rivets, you can get by with two heavy hammers. Place a bit of 3M 5200 around the perimeter. The goal here is to seal _between_ the hull and the patch, not glob stuff on top like is there currently. Rivet in place. If you use solid rivets, no sealant is needed around the rivet. For pop rivets, put a dab of sealer in the hole before inserting the rivet, then put a tab in the middle of the rivet (where the mandrel was), after you pull the rivet. 

The repair should last forever, the "fix," not so much.


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## TC1OZ (Apr 23, 2010)

Thanks for the information bassboy1!

=D>


I will update this thread as the repair process takes place.

First step will be to clean it up and check where the leaks are.

Try to rebuck any rivets that have leaks.

I plan on using Muggy Weld to make sure any of the previous patches are properly sealed (rather than using caulk). Maybe even use along some of the seams that are really dinged up.

Then use the steelflex tinted black to paint the outside of the boat.

Then perhaps later on down the road do some work on the inside. I will update with pictures as the process takes place.

Thanks everyone for your information as I'm sure I'll need more as the process gets underway!


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## TC1OZ (May 2, 2010)

Here she is on her maiden voyage home... I'm thinking of calling her Black Betty when I'm done! (black pigment steelflex for the outside)

My plan was to stop by the hardware store and pickup a few sawhorse hinges so I could rig up a few to get this thing off the ground while I work on it. And pick up a drain plug so that I wouldn't have a LARGE leak hahaha. Sure enough they closed 20 mins before I was able to load the boat up in my buddies truck and get there.

Its ok.. I can get that this week. I was able to rig up a plug out of gaff tape and it works really well... If I were a huge red neck I'd probably just use that! 

The leak test went really well. Only had one leak. Here is the area of where the water was seeping in.






What do you pros think the cheapest/best option would be to repair this area of the boat?


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## zackn (May 3, 2010)

Wow, only one leak! And not even where the big hole was patched? I'm surprised. You've got to be pretty happy about that. Are you still going to try to work on the old patch job, or leave well enough alone?

--Zack


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## TC1OZ (May 4, 2010)

zackn said:


> Wow, only one leak! And not even where the big hole was patched? I'm surprised. You've got to be pretty happy about that. Are you still going to try to work on the old patch job, or leave well enough alone?
> 
> --Zack



I know crazy!! :shock: 

Due to how ugly the boat is, I don't want to waste too much money/time/effort on it. And I doubt I'm even going to touch the old patch job.

Tomorrow I'm going to pressure wash it, then pick up some "Lab-Metal" and I'm going to put it on the inside and outside of where the leak is.





Then I'm going to take it out for a day of fishing.... if theres no more leaks I think a couple cans of this :





And replace the transom wood with something that won't rot (ie. cutting board material from kitchens). As I only plan to use a trolling motor with it.

Floating boat with no leaks for under $250... Can't complain about that.


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## zackn (May 4, 2010)

Haven't heard of that Lab-Metal stuff, but I'm reading about it now. Let us know how it is to work with, and how effective it is!

--Zack


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## TC1OZ (Jun 9, 2010)

Well... I took longer than I wanted but I ended up getting everything I wanted.

I have the lab metal and I have the steelflex, and I plan on using both.

I doubled my order of the steelflex since I heard all the crazy stories on the duty fees... Let me tell you they are all true. hahaha. Damn government!

So I'm going crazy... After I patch the bigger areas up with the lab metal I plan on doing at least two coats of black steelflex on the outside. And one or two coats of gray on the inside.

I also got a sweet deal on a 50# thrust minn kota and marine battery.... 100$











Well....

Tomorrow after work I'll have to pickup some supplies and get to cleaning off the crappy caulking seal job. I'll keep you guys updated and thanks again for all the information! Not only from this thread but from reading all the other helpful threads!! :LOL2:


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## wolfmjc (Jun 9, 2010)

Welcome! be sure to read about putting on the steel flex.......lots of good tips here...


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## zackn (Jun 10, 2010)

Glad to hear things are progressing. Very interested to hear about your Steelflex application, and the results!


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