# Greasing your trailer



## FerrisBueller (Jul 16, 2013)

I am wondering how often you guys grease your trailers, I have bearing buddies on mine and it seems like they need grease far too often and I am thinking the bearings are bad on them. Now I have no clue on how to figure out what size of bearings I need and that whole thing scares me a little. 

I just replaced the tires on both sides and when i spun the tire freely it didnt sound too smooth. I have no clue what it should sound like but I am guessing it shouldnt really make any noise with good bearings.


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## chevyrulz (Jul 16, 2013)

every 6 months or so

Ideally you would grease it every time you put it in the water though because where ever there is not grease there can be water, which is bad

noise may or may not be a problem. to check the bearings, jack up the trailer tires off the ground, and then check for side to side play in the bearings. there should be none, if there's any, you need to replace them immediately

if you need to replace them, it's a lot easier to do that before they disintegrate on the highway. take out the old ones, bring them to an auto parts store, & have them get you some new ones that match. or you can order the entire hub assembly with bearings already in it, that costs a lot more than just bearings though, but it sure does make the labor part easy

so you could put new bearings in it for like $25 & some elbow grease or you could just swap the hubs for like $80 & a lot less elbow grease


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## fish devil (Jul 16, 2013)

:twisted: I grease about every 5th trip. One to two pumps of the synthetic stuff, thats it. My trailer has the original bearings from 2000, the year I bought my Tracker. They have never been disassembled. Still going strong, closing in on 500 trips. :mrgreen:


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## FerrisBueller (Jul 17, 2013)

That's amazing fish devil, especially for coming up on 500 trips.


> to check the bearings, jack up the trailer tires off the ground, and then check for side to side play in the bearings. there should be none, if there's any, you need to replace them immediately



When you say side to side play, do you mean from the front of the boat to the back or parallel to the axel (from physical side to side of the boat). When I do a push and pull on the wheel there should be no movement?


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## chevyrulz (Jul 17, 2013)

FerrisBueller said:


> When you say side to side play, do you mean from the front of the boat to the back or parallel to the axel (from physical side to side of the boat).



the wheel shouldn't wobble front/back, or side/side, but it's ok to slide on the spindle side to side a millimeter or 2 because you don't want to over tighten the axle nut. 



FerrisBueller said:


> When I do a push and pull on the wheel there should be no movement?


wobble? no

a millimeter or 2 slide from front to back of spindle? that's normal


so when the tire is off the ground, if you push the top of the tire toward the frame of the trailer, then the top & bottom of the tire should move together (or not at all). if you can tip the top of the tire inwards toward the frame, that's bad


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## FerrisBueller (Jul 17, 2013)

they don't really seem to have any side to side or wobble play, I think the seals are bad though, as I can see grease on the inner side of the hub around the spindle/axle, and it seems to take more grease than it should. Maybe that's ok as long as i grease it enough, but soon I think I should replace bearings if not the whole bearings and hub assembly.


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## FerrisBueller (Jul 17, 2013)

also on that note, if I decide to get one of those whole hub/bearing kits do I just need to make sure i get the right size hub for the spindle I have? Or do I need to worry about the bearing sizes as well. I would assume that as long as the hub fits to the right size its good to go, as the bearings are really sized to the hub.


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## chevyrulz (Jul 17, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=322656#p322656 said:


> FerrisBueller » 17 minutes ago[/url]"]also on that note, if I decide to get one of those whole hub/bearing kits do I just need to make sure i get the right size hub for the spindle I have? Or do I need to worry about the bearing sizes as well. I would assume that as long as the hub fits to the right size its good to go, as the bearings are really sized to the hub.


the bearings must fit the spindle & the hubs must fit the wheel, so check your spindle/bearing size and your hub/wheel bolt pattern

to check the bolt pattern, measure the furthest distance between 2 studs (measure from center of stud to center of stud). if you have 5 studs, and that measurement is 4.5 inches, then your bolt pattern is 5 on 4.5


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## chevyrulz (Jul 17, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=322654#p322654 said:


> FerrisBueller » 26 minutes ago[/url]"]I think the seals are bad though, as I can see grease on the inner side of the hub around the spindle/axle


the seals may be worn out, but it's normal for some grease to escape there when you pump the hub completely full. 




[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=322654#p322654 said:


> FerrisBueller » 26 minutes ago[/url]"]Maybe that's ok as long as i grease it enough


Correct. that seal keeps dirt & water out & grease in, so without it, it's easier to get water & dirt in, and have grease escape, all of which is bad for the bearings


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## PSG-1 (Jul 17, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=322656#p322656 said:


> FerrisBueller » 45 minutes ago[/url]"]also on that note, if I decide to get one of those whole hub/bearing kits do I just need to make sure i get the right size hub for the spindle I have? Or do I need to worry about the bearing sizes as well. I would assume that as long as the hub fits to the right size its good to go, as the bearings are really sized to the hub.




Bearing and spindle assemblies typically come in 3 sizes, 1 inch, 1 & 1/16", and then there's a tapered spindle that uses 1 & 1/16 on the outer side, and 1 & 3/8" on the inner side. 

Don't ask me why it's like this...it's kinda like the 1 & 7/8" and 2" trailer ball issue. Does that extra 1/8" really make it that much stronger? :?: :? And which came first? The 2" or the 1 & 7/8" 

My biggest question, as someone who works on trailers, always dealing with the dilemma of 10,000 different parts: Why don't they phase out some of this crap, and start going with universal sizes? :idea:


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## chevyrulz (Jul 17, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=322662#p322662 said:


> PSG-1 » 3 minutes ago[/url]"]
> 
> My biggest question, as someone who works on trailers, always dealing with the dilemma of 10,000 different parts: Why don't they phase out some of this crap, and start going with universal sizes? :idea:


man that'd sure be nice


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## Ranchero50 (Jul 17, 2013)

Bearing buddies, green is good, red needs a squirt or two. Kick the tires to check the pressure before a trip. I did tear the bearings apart when I made my axle wider a couple ears ago. No noticeable wear on the bearings or spindle so I just bolted it back together.

Fresh water use, 5 miles from the water.


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## FerrisBueller (Jul 18, 2013)

I'd think the only reason for the different ball sizes is that it would be too easy and convenient, and nobody wants that haha.

I took my boat out last night, and after the trip I did notice there was quite a bit of grease on the inner side of the tires that gets flung around. I'm thinkin sooner rather than later I'm going to replace the entire hub/bearing assembly, as they are lookin worn and it just eats too much grease and I'd rather have the peace of mind knowing they are fresh.


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## FerrisBueller (Jul 18, 2013)

I wish i was only 5 miles from fishable waters Ranchero!


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## Colbyt (Jul 18, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=322797#p322797 said:


> FerrisBueller » Today, 08:50[/url]"]I'd think the only reason for the different ball sizes is that it would be too easy and convenient, and nobody wants that haha.
> 
> I took my boat out last night, and after the trip I did notice there was quite a bit of grease on the inner side of the tires that gets flung around. I'm thinkin sooner rather than later I'm going to replace the entire hub/bearing assembly, as they are lookin worn and it just eats too much grease and I'd rather have the peace of mind knowing they are fresh.




You don't think new seals might do the job?


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## FerrisBueller (Jul 18, 2013)

I guess I've never thought about just replacing those. Do you think that would even be worth just replacing the seals? Or since I'm in there should I just replace the whole assembly?

Will the seals be easy to identify what size they are when removed? 

(I've never done any bearing work before)


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## PSG-1 (Jul 18, 2013)

Typically, seal size will be the same for most of your average 4 and 5 lug trailer hubs, regardless of bearing size. But it's best to take it with you when you go to buy a new one, so you can compare to be sure.


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## Colbyt (Jul 19, 2013)

The seals should have a brand and model number stamped on them. Like everything else it is cross referenced and other makers may use a different part number.

I would strip it down, clean and inspect the bearings and races. If in good shape I would repack the bearings, install new seals after cleaning the spindle and check it in another year or 2 if you don't tow very far. You may need a seal puller https://www.harborfreight.com/seal-puller-35556.html to get the old one out without damaging the bearing or race. 

Here is a how to video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HsCH1d6R7J0 Don't use gasoline to clean the parts. Use K1 or diesel.


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## FerrisBueller (Jul 23, 2013)

Ended up replacing the entire assembly. When I spun the wheels they made too much noise and there was far too much play for my comfort. I ended up getting the pre-packed hub/bearing kits at Northern Tool. Now they spin smooth and quiet with no play to them.


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## chevyrulz (Jul 23, 2013)

that's the right way to do it, $ well spent in my opinion


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## dahut (Jul 25, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=323326#p323326 said:


> FerrisBueller » Yesterday, 05:48[/url]"]Ended up replacing the entire assembly. When I spun the wheels they made too much noise and there was far too much play for my comfort. I ended up getting the pre-packed hub/bearing kits at Northern Tool. Now they spin smooth and quiet with no play to them.


Now you know what is going on with your bearings. I was hoping you would take this route. There is no peace of mind like understanding how your equipment works. Honestly, you should have taken them down to parade rest at the outset. But youre golden now.

And there is no more important piece on a trailer than the the bearings. Other pieces are important, but the bearings make it all happen.


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## FerrisBueller (Jul 25, 2013)

dahut said:


> Now you know what is going on with your bearings. I was hoping you would take this route. There is no peace of mind like understanding how your equipment works.



That's kind of what I was thinking as well. I'd rather know exactly what was going on with the bearings and know that everything is in good condition. The last think you want is to have an issue with your trailer. 

I'm not too familiar with the bearing part of it which is why I went with the pre-greased kit. I'm assuming you would need some sort of bearing pull to get the bearings out of the hub when they get replaced? Seemed like they are in the pretty good, along with the seal.


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## chevyrulz (Jul 25, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=323552#p323552 said:


> FerrisBueller » Today, 09:26[/url]"]I'm assuming you would need some sort of bearing pull to get the bearings out of the hub when they get replaced?


yea it's called a hammer lol

use a correct sized socket to punch it out, & if the outer race get's stuck then a chisel or flathead screwdriver


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## dahut (Jul 25, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=323587#p323587 said:


> chevyrulz » Today, 09:03[/url]"]
> 
> 
> [url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=323552#p323552 said:
> ...


You CAN get special tools for the job, pullers and such. 
But as mentioned, you don't absolutely needed them. 
I prefer to have such tools, myself. For jobs I don't do often, like pulling wheel bearings, I'll buy a moderate priced set.
If something I do alot or which is critical, I'll spend more.


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## PSG-1 (Jul 26, 2013)

When I need to knock out old bearing races, I use a length of round stock, and knock it out with a hammer. For re-seating new races, I have a length of some sch. 80 aluminum pipe, it's about the same diameter as the bearing race, and works perfectly.

It's important that you have the bearing races seated correctly, making sure they bottom out. Otherwise, when you install the wheel, everything will feel tight at first, but as soon as you go down the road, it will begin to wobble. Been there, done it.


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## FerrisBueller (Jul 26, 2013)

I appreciate the info guys! I'll keep this in mind when I need to do any bearing work in the future!


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