# Rebuilding 1973 14ft Sears Semi-V



## Stryker777 (Apr 10, 2009)

Starting on this boat. I got it for free so I figured it wont be too costly to redo. It looks rough and needs the keep cap fixed, but I think it is still in good enough shape to turn into a nice little bass boat. 

Keel Cap Crack - will be shaping some aluminum to weld on and re-rivet the 4 rivets closest to the crack.


Bow - Cutting off the torn up aluminum and riveting a piece of angled aluminum across for mounting structure. Started stripping the starboard side with a cup brush on a drill.



Stern - Looks good.
View attachment 1


Port Side - Got a lot of stripping to do. Notice the tar on the bottom too. This will be fun lol.



I am not sure about the deck design or how I am going to mount it all yet. The second from rear seat will be taken out but that is all I have decided on. As soon as I have that figured out, I will upload a diagram of my plans. Any input or ideas would be greatly appreciated! This is my first mod. The only other boat I have ever owned was a 14'x32" tipsy john boat. It is my river trapping boat. Oh, and I will be looking for a 5-10hp outboard for the Semi-V and maybe a foot controlled trolling motor. I currently only have a 45lbs thrust rear till troller. It will push it around, but I would love to have an outboard for some of the lakes around here.


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## Stryker777 (Apr 11, 2009)

Made a little progress today. I got the whole top half stripped off with my cup brush on a drill. Sure is time consuming but I am very pleased with the last 6 hours of work.



It is supposed to rain the next few days and I don't have an indoor space big enough, so I can't work on it again till it passes. When I do get a chance, I am going to try to strip the bottom half and weld that cap. I picked up some aluminum for it today and will shape it this week. 

Questions...
1) What kind of primer should I use? I have looked everywhere for a primer suitable for aluminum and have found nothing listed. I am probably using some kind of two part epoxy paint on it or implement paint with hardener added, but they all say not to put directly on aluminum.

2) Before I prime, what steps should I immediately take? Wipe down with acetone? Run a quick wire brush over it?

3) Is it ok to replace bad rivets with aluminum pop rivets?

Thanks for any and all help!


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## Stryker777 (Apr 12, 2009)

Thankfully I ran into a guy at church that has a body shop that handles boats too. He told me to hit Oreilly's for the self-etching primer. They have Duplicolor self-etching primer with a green cap for $5. 

Here are the steps he gave me. Please correct anything that may be wrong:
1) Get old paint off
2) Scuff up lightly and then clean off with acetone
3) Put on self-etching primer in a light coat
4) Primer with another primer
5) Lightly sand and clean
6) Immediately start painting with my choice of implement or marine epoxy paint (add hardener if implement).
7) Wait and wait and wait so the finish is completely cured before exposing to anything.

Flipped the boat over today to start stripping the bottom, but the storms kicked in before I got to do any real work.
Thanks again for any input!


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## Henry Hefner (Apr 14, 2009)

Stryker777 said:


> Is it ok to replace bad rivets with aluminum pop rivets?


 
I used pop rivets for interior work, but not through the hull. I hunted all over until I found the same type rivets that boats come with at a local hardware store. You insert them into the hole, hold something like a sledge hammer head on one side, and hit it with a hammer on the other side. This swells the rivet in place and keeps water out. If you do have a rivet leaking, you can fix the leak most times by using a hammer on it again.


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## ober51 (Apr 14, 2009)

Stryker777 said:


> Thankfully I ran into a guy at church that has a body shop that handles boats too. He told me to hit Oreilly's for the self-etching primer. They have Duplicolor self-etching primer with a green cap for $5.
> 
> Here are the steps he gave me. Please correct anything that may be wrong:
> 1) Get old paint off
> ...



Stryker - I bolded something of interest. I was told that you do not need to apply another primer over the self-etching. I was wondering why you were going to do so? Were you told otherwise? I am curious because if that is better, I would do that but as of now I just plan to put the Brightside paint I bought right over the self-etching primer.


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## Stryker777 (Apr 14, 2009)

Thanks Henry. I will keep looking around to find the right rivets for the job. I may have to make a trip up to Rolla. 

Ober, I have it listed like that because that is how he told me to do it. He said to clean, then immediately put on a thin layer of etching primer. He said to keep it thin because too much is counterproductive. Then as soon as it is dried primer with a regular primer. He said not to sand the etching primer but do sand the next primer and clean. The reason for a regular primer over the etching primer was because the etching primer was rougher on the paint. He said it will last longer this way. I did not ask for a chemistry lesson (though I wish I had) so I do not have all of the whys, just what he told me.


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## ober51 (Apr 14, 2009)

Stryker777 said:


> Thanks Henry. I will keep looking around to find the right rivets for the job. I may have to make a trip up to Rolla.
> 
> Ober, I have it listed like that because that is how he told me to do it. He said to clean, then immediately put on a thin layer of etching primer. He said to keep it thin because too much is counterproductive. Then as soon as it is dried primer with a regular primer. He said not to sand the etching primer but do sand the next primer and clean. The reason for a regular primer over the etching primer was because the etching primer was rougher on the paint. He said it will last longer this way. I did not ask for a chemistry lesson (though I wish I had) so I do not have all of the whys, just what he told me.



Hmm interesting.... I think I may still go from etch to finish coats (light, so at least 2). I just don't have the money to keep going to buy more stuff, lol. I am hoping to wash/degrease asap, but with rain tomorrow, won't be until Thursday earliest.


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## Stryker777 (Apr 14, 2009)

I know what you mean. I am heading to the scrap yard tomorrow to pick up aluminum to use. These things can get expensive and I have kids I would rather spend most of my little bit of money on lol.


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## RBuffordTJ (Apr 15, 2009)

You have a great looking project boat going there, and I can't wait to see what you come up with as a finished product. I'm pretty new to the site and new to owning a boat too, mine is a 12' flat bottom jon boat. I will be posting pics soon.

Rick in Orlando


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## Stryker777 (Apr 15, 2009)

Thank you RBufford 

Well today I made a little progress sanding it down and achieved my goal for the day. In the picture it shows how much I did on one side. I did both sides the same. Another 2 hours of grinding done. I also got my aluminum! Got a great price. Thanks to the frugal wisdom on the Minnow Bucket, I decided to hit the scrap yard and see what I could get. They sold it to me at scrap aluminum prices. The picture shows what I got. I now have $22 in aluminum for framing  The channeled legs from the 2 6ft ladders, plus the rungs for some bracing, 12 ft ladder style cable rack, screen door vertical beams, a piece of 1x1/8x4 angle, a piece of square aluminum, and whatever else is in there. I have plenty and got it cheap. I highly recommend checking it out if needing aluminum for structure.

Good luck everyone!


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## ober51 (Apr 15, 2009)

Stryker777 said:


> Thank you RBufford
> 
> Well today I made a little progress sanding it down and achieved my goal for the day. In the picture it shows how much I did on one side. I did both sides the same. Another 2 hours of grinding done. I also got my aluminum! Got a great price. Thanks to the frugal wisdom on the Minnow Bucket, I decided to hit the scrap yard and see what I could get. They sold it to me at scrap aluminum prices. The picture shows what I got. I now have $22 in aluminum for framing  The channeled legs from the 2 6ft ladders, plus the rungs for some bracing, 12 ft ladder style cable rack, screen door vertical beams, a piece of 1x1/8x4 angle, a piece of square aluminum, and whatever else is in there. I have plenty and got it cheap. I highly recommend checking it out if needing aluminum for structure.
> 
> Good luck everyone!



Awesome stuff. What are you sanding the boat with? Are you using a wire cup brush? A hand sander with a specific grit? Or something else? I am doing that tomorrow but I am afraid I will be taking off too much aluminum with the wire cup brush. I have the option of doing it with a hand sander with 60 grit. Just looking for some advice.

I had the same idea about the ladders today, believe it or not. I think cutting that up makes for great bracing - I just need to find a scrap yard by me in Bergen County, NJ. How are you planning on cutting up the aluminum? Any special tools?


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## Stryker777 (Apr 15, 2009)

I have two cup brushes. One is coarse (for first pass), then the next is fine. The first pass does not get to aluminum easy because the boat was tarred and then painted over. The fine is what I use to clear the aluminum. It doesn't take off much like that. 

To cut up the ladders, I am going to use my miter saw and reciprocating saw. I have a metal cutting blade on my miter saw. I will use it for all straight cuts. Then the reciprocating saw will be use for curved cuts. For anything else, I will probably use a Dremel or angle grinder with a cutting wheel. That way I can do detailed shaped cuts for around ribs and such. 

Good luck on the paint removal! It is not fast, but sure makes you feel good when you get a bunch done.


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## ober51 (Apr 15, 2009)

Stryker777 said:


> I have two cup brushes. One is coarse (for first pass), then the next is fine. The first pass does not get to aluminum easy because the boat was tarred and then painted over. The fine is what I use to clear the aluminum. It doesn't take off much like that.
> 
> To cut up the ladders, I am going to use my miter saw and reciprocating saw. I have a metal cutting blade on my miter saw. I will use it for all straight cuts. Then the reciprocating saw will be use for curved cuts. For anything else, I will probably use a Dremel or angle grinder with a cutting wheel. That way I can do detailed shaped cuts for around ribs and such.
> 
> Good luck on the paint removal! It is not fast, but sure makes you feel good when you get a bunch done.



Hmm. I don't have anything on the outside of my hull - so maybe I should just use a sander, which I think is less abrasive than the cup brush, which for me seems a bit too coarse. I think it just needs to be scuffed given that there is no paint at all. 

How much lighter is aluminum than using 2x2's? I was just thinking of getting some wood and using stainless hardware, if I can't find a nearby scrapyard. Thanks for the blade info - this is literally the first hands on project I have completed (or tried to complete) so any and all info is beneficial. When do you plan on starting the framing - tomorrow?


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## Stryker777 (Apr 16, 2009)

If you dont have anything on the outside to take off, then I would do it like they told you in the other thread. Degrease, sand with 80 grit, etc. 

I wont be ready to start framing till I get all of the paint off, weld the keel guard, and tap out any dents. Once all of the prep work is done, I will do the framing. I am guessing I will start on it next week. I am drawing the plans right now. After they are completed, I'll upload them.


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## ober51 (Apr 16, 2009)

Stryker777 said:


> If you dont have anything on the outside to take off, then I would do it like they told you in the other thread. Degrease, sand with 80 grit, etc.
> 
> I wont be ready to start framing till I get all of the paint off, weld the keel guard, and tap out any dents. Once all of the prep work is done, I will do the framing. I am guessing I will start on it next week. I am drawing the plans right now. After they are completed, I'll upload them.




That is basically what I am doing - sanding with 60 grit though. Not too hard, a lot of progress on that today.


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## Stryker777 (Apr 21, 2009)

Here is an update. Today I finished sanding it all down. That tar was a bear to get off of the very bottom. It was almost 1/8 of an inch thick. I am interested to see how much lighter the boat is now. I did find a couple small pin holes. Will figure out how I want to pursue them after I weld the keel guard. Here are a couple pics...

Pretty and shiny:
View attachment 1


Here is where I need to do the weld:



I will be doing a light sand and clean before I put on my etching primer. First I want to do the aluminum framing though. That way I am painting everything at once. Still have to buy my paint. Hopefully I can get up to Rolla Saturday to get all of the paint. After I finish the weld and replace the 8 closest rivets to the weld, I am going to take out the dents and start framing. Got the rivets from https://www.mcmaster.com/. I ordered them yesterday and they arrived today! I was amazed lol. Prices were pretty good too so I ordered 100 3/16 and 50 1/4. 

Have a safe and productive week everyone!


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## ober51 (Apr 21, 2009)

Stryker777 said:


> Here is an update. Today I finished sanding it all down. That tar was a bear to get off of the very bottom. It was almost 1/8 of an inch thick. I am interested to see how much lighter the boat is now. I did find a couple small pin holes. Will figure out how I want to pursue them after I weld the keel guard. Here are a couple pics...
> 
> Pretty and shiny:
> View attachment 1
> ...



Stryker, looking good, man. I can relate about the sanding, as I have to do it yet again (not as bad though). I think waiting to paint it all at once is good, I just couldnt wait, nor would the weather cooperate. What are the color patterns you have picked out? Not sure if that's been asked, but that always interests me. Good luck with everything.


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## Stryker777 (Apr 21, 2009)

Here are the colors I am using. I am going with grey and yellow so fade and yellowing is not as much of an issue. Plus they are easy colors to touch up if it gets scratched. Not my favorite color set but the best for my project. These two colors are also common mixes so they will be easy to find for years to come.




Good luck on your sanding and second coat! Hope the weather cooperates.


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## ober51 (Apr 22, 2009)

Stryker777 said:


> Here are the colors I am using. I am going with grey and yellow so fade and yellowing is not as much of an issue. Plus they are easy colors to touch up if it gets scratched. Not my favorite color set but the best for my project. These two colors are also common mixes so they will be easy to find for years to come.
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck on your sanding and second coat! Hope the weather cooperates.



I actually like them. I think you could really make them look nice..plus, they are not your standard colors. 

Thanks, I think I am going to just touch it up. I have found another project calling my name - and I may go buy it this weekend. It's a 16' Monark Jon, only $200 bucks. I really want the extra 2 feet and stability, so I may cut this project short, make it look nice and sell. then devote my time and resources to this other, bigger boat. 

The weather in NJ in April is very unpredictable. Rain is on and off - so I will be battling that for a while.


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## Stryker777 (May 1, 2009)

Got delayed a little bit on progress. My funding for the paint and wood got diverted when a friend called up and offered me a 4 wheeler and 8ft trailer for $500! Could not pass up that chance. Now I am saving for my paint again lol.

If nothing else, I have my first 4 wheeler and I can dolly the boat around with it. Should have the paint and wood in a couple weeks.


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## ober51 (May 1, 2009)

Stryker777 said:


> Got delayed a little bit on progress. My funding for the paint and wood got diverted when a friend called up and offered me a 4 wheeler and 8ft trailer for $500! Could not pass up that chance. Now I am saving for my paint again lol.
> 
> If nothing else, I have my first 4 wheeler and I can dolly the boat around with it. Should have the paint and wood in a couple weeks.



Some diversions are good, some are bad. This was a good one.


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## Stryker777 (May 1, 2009)

Thanks. It was fun to play with today! Looking forward to when the rain stops so I can do some framing. Good luck on the flat bottom!


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## RStewart (May 2, 2009)

this is going to be a cool build. i wish i would have thought about going to scrap yard to get aluminum. o well, the wood will work for now and i may redo it later with aluminum.


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## ober51 (May 2, 2009)

Stryker777 said:


> Thanks. It was fun to play with today! Looking forward to when the rain stops so I can do some framing. Good luck on the flat bottom!



Thanks, it's hard to start the second build so quickly - my hands still hurt from the first, though this one has FAR LESS work to do prep wise. 

I am on the look out for aluminum, whether it's Craigslist, my town dump, or a local scrap yard. I think it will just last much longer and be that much more sturdy when I take one of the benches out. We'll see. Keep up the good work, you're going to be rewarded!


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## Stryker777 (May 8, 2009)

Almost have time to start framing. Have a funeral tomorrow... I mean a wedding. Hopefully I can start framing Wednesday. I have been messing around with layouts. This is what I am thinking of for now. I am only removing the second from the back seat. The rest I am leaving for flotation and adding flotation to the front and rear (next to the pumps). My goal is to keep the boat weighted to where it will be useful with or without passengers. The center green seat area is actually going to be a fold out panel that will have two swivel seats mounted on it for my kids. Their feet will be at floor level when it is folded up. Then the livewell and cooler can double as a picnic table. The rear seat location may be moved, depending on the motor I end up with. I have not found one yet. I will probably put 2 mounts in the rear (one on the side, one in the center) so the position is interchangeable. Most of the time it will just be me and one other person on the boat. This is my first draft.


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## Caesar (May 9, 2009)

Stryker, you weren't kidding about when you said your plans were similar to mine... Great minds eh? Looks good I'm looking forward to watching this thing come together since I'm about a week and half behind you when it comes to rounding up materials. Good luck and keep the updates coming.


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## Stryker777 (Apr 15, 2010)

I guess delays happen. This one was almost a year because I had no time to work on it. Today I am taking in the boat to get the keel guard welded. I may have him weld a couple other places too, just for good measure. He is good and it will be cheap this time. Can't wait to get that done. Then I can get this thing in the water for the first time. I'll be using it between projects on it. Painting will be the next project, then the framing.


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## ober51 (Apr 15, 2010)

Stryker777 said:


> I guess delays happen. This one was almost a year because I had no time to work on it. Today I am taking in the boat to get the keel guard welded. I may have him weld a couple other places too, just for good measure. He is good and it will be cheap this time. Can't wait to get that done. Then I can get this thing in the water for the first time. I'll be using it between projects on it. Painting will be the next project, then the framing.



Glad to see you're back on track, looking forward to the reports.


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## Stryker777 (Apr 26, 2010)

Finally got it back from the guy that did the welding. Spring turkey season started so he got delayed lol. Now I have to decide what to do about paint. I really wanted to do steel flex originally but now I am unsure of what to do. Anyone have any advice? I'm going to be doing some reinforcing and then start on framing after the bottom paint is done.


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## ober51 (Apr 27, 2010)

Stryker777 said:


> Finally got it back from the guy that did the welding. Spring turkey season started so he got delayed lol. Now I have to decide what to do about paint. I really wanted to do steel flex originally but now I am unsure of what to do. Anyone have any advice? I'm going to be doing some reinforcing and then start on framing after the bottom paint is done.



Any leaking issues? I like SF even simply to protect.


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## perchin (Apr 27, 2010)

I would just steelflex the very bottom of the boat, and paint the rest.


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## Stryker777 (Apr 29, 2010)

There are a couple of pin hole leaks I found. They had put liquid nail on em and I sanded it all off so they leak again  I figured Steel Flex can seal them up fine. I guess I will go with it. Then I can use some implement paint on the top half.
Thanks for the input!


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## perchin (Apr 29, 2010)

Stryker777 said:


> There are a couple of pin hole leaks I found. They had put liquid nail on em and I sanded it all off so they leak again  I figured Steel Flex can seal them up fine. I guess I will go with it. Then I can use some implement paint on the top half.
> Thanks for the input!



Yeah..... you might want to do the painting first so you get full coverage at the seams. Take a peek at what steps and order I did mine, you'll see what I'm talking about. You can also order the pigment dyes for the steelflex to closely match your color scheme. From a distance you can't even tell the difference in main color of boat to the color of the steelflex. Hope this helps. 8)


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## Stryker777 (Apr 30, 2010)

Thanks Perchin. Your thread will be helpful. I am going to use an old coal bin as a painting booth. We have about 6 of em out here that were abandoned many years ago. Wont have power, but they are made of concrete and have big doors. What kind of paint did you use for your upper parts?


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## perchin (May 3, 2010)

Rust-oleum exteior flat in spray cans. I wet sanded in between coats with 600 grit, just enough to smooth it out, then blow it off with air, clean off remainning dust with lightly soaked rag w/acetone. 8)


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## Stryker777 (May 7, 2010)

Hopefully doing the top painting this weekend after mudding with the kids. That is if the weather holds out. Thanks for the info about the paint and method you used Perchin. I am going to do the back first (since I am mounting my new boards) and then I'll do the rest of the top half.


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## Stryker777 (May 24, 2010)

Painted the back and front sides. Then re-numbered it and put on the transom boards. Turned out pretty good. Then, thankfully, we put it in the water for 4 hours without a drop coming it. Looks pretty good. The wife and I had a great time fishing. Tonight I put on the transducer for my fish finder. I drilled and put in SS bolts. Did not really want to drill but I figured I can use it for many years and if I ever have no more need for the holes, I can cut there for a live well fill tube (with cut-off valve). Rubber o-rings worked good on all of my bolts. I am thinking of using marine sealant at the transducer also, but the o-rings keep the water out pretty well for such a simple thing. I am using EV-3 fuel injector o-rings.


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## Stryker777 (May 14, 2011)

Last week I ordered in some led stop/turn lights to replace my trailer lights. These are flush mounted to the uprights. I drilled the uprights and ran the wires through. Put on two sets to make sure they were bright enough. Cost $24. 
View attachment 2


Got an old 18 horse Johnson today. Compression was 98 on one side and 100 on the other. Had a clear title, gas tank, new gas line, electric start with harness, and a couple mud dauber nests. It does not look real pretty but runs pretty well. I don't know anything about the things but I can learn. Paid $225 so I think I did ok. Have been out without it a couple times this year already. It will be nice having it to scoot across the lakes a little faster. I think I need to clean, oil, and grease stuff right away. I will probably repaint it soon too. Any input or info about it would be great. I have no information about this engine at the time.
View attachment 1




I have not done any decking yet. Maybe this summer. At least I have the materials. Now I just need time.


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