# Jon Boat Electrical Layout NEED HELP! (Diagram attached)



## northface_14 (Apr 16, 2012)

I am a true novice at electrical projects but after reading many forums and listening to the dos and don'ts of running wire. This is what I have done so far...

1. Made my layout to include all of the electrical components on the boat.
2. Identified what I would like to have on/off switches for the circuit panel.
3. Identified what electrical items will NOT be included in the circuit panel and wired directly to a designated battery.
4. Add circuit breakers to electrical items being directly wired to a designated battery.
5. Added a NEGATIVE buss bar for ALL electrical components besides the trolling motor.
6. Calculated the amperage for each electrical component to make sure I record what the necessary fuse size should be.

I have not completed the following:
1. Decide if the LED lights need to have a POSITIVE buss bar OR can I string the lighting together as indicated on the diagram?
2. Do I need to have two differently located 60 Amp breakers for the two locations I would have 1 trolling motor on the boat OR can I wire the breaker closer to the battery and have the 2 positive feeds go into a buss bar then into the breaker, then the battery? I want to have 2 plug-in locations in case I want the trolling motor on the bow, this would make for a quick process, BUT I don't want to buy two 60 Amp breakers if necessary.
3. I have to measure the length of EACH run to make sure I have the right size wire and circuit breaker. Many of you have included charts which are very helpful.
4. Is there ANY case in which I would not need 2 batteries or is it better to have 2 and be safe?
5. What would be the benefit of having an onboard battery charger? How many anglers out there have used them and could recommend a few brands, if its necessary.


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## Gramps50 (Apr 17, 2012)

You want your circuit breakers to be close to the battery, so because you will only have one trolling motor and just be using it from 2 different locations I would just hook both TM pos wires from the plug to the lug on the CB and the Batt lug to the battery.

I only have one battery and it runs everything, I don't go out at night is nav lights for me aren't an issue, I do have them just never had to use them. So other than starting the motor the only other thing that runs on the battery is the fish finder and the trolling motor. So far this have never been an issue for me. My motor has a pull starter too and normally will start on one or 2 pulls so to me it isn't a big deal if I do run down the battery.

I don't have an on board charger, I use a small float charger and it has been working fine for me.


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## RivRunR (Apr 17, 2012)

Looks pretty good! Just a couple of comments...

I'd recommend the 2-battery setup if it's in your budget. If nothing else it gives you a backup to get home if your TM battery should die.

Since you are running one trolling motor you only need one circuit breaker, which needs to be within 7" of the battery. Just run from the breaker to your 2 TM plugs with 6AWG, you don't really need a positive buss, etc. So, it's battery #1 to the breaker, then 2 leads off the breaker for plug 1 and plug 2. Run each plug's neg directly to the battery #1 neg.

I didn't see a fuse panel on your diagram. Typically you'd want to run the positive side of your switched devices as battery #2 pos > breaker (7") > fuse panel > switch panel > device, and on the negative side it would be battery #2 neg > neg buss bar > device. For your un-switched devices it's the same thing only eliminating the switch panel. In other words run everything thru the fuse panel, and then either thru the switch, or directly to the device. This is easier/neater if you mount your fuse panel and neg buss bar close to your battery #2.

I've never run LEDs like you show, but I don't see any reason you can't run a jumper from one to the next. Someone with more expertise will have to chime in on that.

The benefit of an onboard charger is the convenience of not having to remove your batteries after every trip. Most models will charge and then maintain your batteries. I use Dual Pro's Sportsman models, but there are a lot of good brand out there.


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## gillhunter (Apr 17, 2012)

How are you planning to use your boat? I see you show a 9.9 motor and a transom mount trolling motor. I don't see any electric to the motor so I assume it is a pull start. Are you going to be adding a bow mount trolling motor soon? If you are going to fish total electric lakes I would recommend a 2 battery setup and an on board charger as RivRunR recommended. If you don't fish total electric you could probably just have one battery and get home on the motor, if it dies. If you have a 2 battery setup I would recommend trying to mount them close to each other and then you could just run 1 circuit breaker. 

I run with a 9.9 part of the year and total electric rest of the time. I run 2 deep cycle batteries with a switch. One to fish with and the other to get back to the landing with. :LOL2:


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## RivRunR (Apr 17, 2012)

gillhunter said:


> ... I see you show a 9.9 motor and a transom mount trolling motor. ...you could probably just have one battery and get home on the motor


How did I miss that 9.9 on the back???  

I'd still go with a 2 battery setup tho. I just like having the TM on it's own battery so it doesn't kill the lights, interfere with the FF, etc...(or maybe I'm just saving face!)


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## northface_14 (Apr 17, 2012)

Thanks for the feedback from everyone! 

Based on everyone's feedback I think I will go with the one CB for the 2 trolling motor locations for 1 trolling motor. The LEDs cumulatively generate less than a quarter of 1 Amp so I was not worried about overheating the navigation lights and interior red LED lights. 

1. Is it typical to purchase a switched panel with fuses or purchase a switched panel without fuses and add individually to each electrical component entering into the panel?
2. IF I decide (through online recommendations) to use a switch panel with built in fuses/breakers what do anglers recommend:
A) Front mounted fuses or hidden circuit breakers?
B) Based on how each electrical interrupter works does anyone prefer one over the other?
3. Can I run a smaller battery for the switched panel accessories or should the battery be the same as the trolling motor?
4. Do I need to have the breaker after the switch panel IF the switch panel has built in fuses/circuit breakers for the accessories?
5. Has anyone ever used plastic conduit to run wires or are there other alternatives?
6. For the amount of items running off of the batteries does anyone have an onboard battery charger they would recommend for a mid-range price?
7. NOT AN ELECTRICAL QUESTION - Has anyone had good success and found it useful to install a handle extension for the TM?


Thanks again for everyone's great ideas!

Thanks for everyone's feedback!


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## gillhunter (Apr 17, 2012)

I run 3 batteries, 2 deep cycle for the trolling motor and 1 starter battery for my FF, bilge pump and my electric start 9.9 when I have it mounted. Since you have a pull start engine your 3rd battery could probably be a small "motor cycle" sized one. Lowes and Home Depot sell a flexible wire cover in several sizes, that's what I have mine run in.


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## RivRunR (Apr 17, 2012)

1. Is it typical to purchase a switched panel with fuses or purchase a switched panel without fuses and add individually to each electrical component entering into the panel?
Well, there is no "typical"...it just depends on what you want. Switch panels with fuses are tidy, the fuses are easily accessible, the switches are pre-wired, etc. BUT, some devices have their own on/off switch and don't need to be run thru the switch panel, such as fish finders, radios, etc. You will need an additional, stand alone fuse panel for those. IMHO it seems simpler to have a single fuse panel for everything, and then either individual switches or an un-fused switch panel.

2. IF I decide (through online recommendations) to use a switch panel with built in fuses/breakers what do anglers recommend:
A) Front mounted fuses or hidden circuit breakers?
B) Based on how each electrical interrupter works does anyone prefer one over the other?
Don't have either, but I'd think front mounted if the switch panel's dimensions fit your console... not sure what a switch panel with hidden fuses gets you.

3. Can I run a smaller battery for the switched panel accessories or should the battery be the same as the trolling motor?
The accessory battery doesn't have to be the same size unless you plan to run batteries in series or parallel down the road sometime, in which case they need to be identical in size and age.

4. Do I need to have the breaker after the switch panel IF the switch panel has built in fuses/circuit breakers for the accessories?
Not sure what you mean by "after." Generally speaking, the breaker is there to protect the wire, and the fuses to protect the device...so the positive side should be battery positive > breaker > switched fuse panel > device. 

5. Has anyone ever used plastic conduit to run wires or are there other alternatives?
Lots of alternatives...use "search" to see tons of them.

6. For the amount of items running off of the batteries does anyone have an onboard battery charger they would recommend for a mid-range price?
 I use Dual Pro's, but there's lots of good on-board chargers out there.


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