# Fritz's 1968 14' StarCraft Falcon



## Master-deBaiter (May 25, 2015)

I picked up this boat, motor, and trailer from Craigslist for $300. Also included was a Big John transom bar for trolling. I quickly sold the transom bar for $200 on Craigslist. So I only have $100 invested into this boat, motor, and trailer...I still find it hard to believe, myself. I'm thinking of selling the motor and controls for $100. 

Anyone know the way to fix dents in the sides of aluminum boats?


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (May 25, 2015)

How bad are the dents? Lets see some pictures of them.
In case you don't know what you have it's a 1968 StarCraft Falcon. I have the same boat.


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## Master-deBaiter (May 25, 2015)

I'm sorry for the images being lopsided. I will figure this photo-posting thing out, I promise


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## Master-deBaiter (May 25, 2015)

Got some work done today


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## Zum (May 26, 2015)

If the motor runs(even if it doesnt), I think your undervalueing it. Do you know what your going to use on this boat?
Good luck with your project, nice start.


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## jethro (May 26, 2015)

I've never encountered dents that big, but if I did I would go about them the same way as I have with the smaller ones... a big rubber mallet.


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## Master-deBaiter (May 26, 2015)

For the past few years I've fished with a tiller motor and grown to like having an open layout. I'm aware the 35hp Johnson is worth more than $100 (I see people selling the controls alone for $85 on CL). I was fishing last night before I started this thread and started to rethink letting go of the 35hp. I plan to duck hunt with the Starcraft on the Bay of Green Bay, WI... So, I'm going to have it loaded with decoys & hunters and will probably need those extra ponies - giddy up! I have no idea how much work the motor needs. To keep me moving in the meantime, I bought a 25hp Evinrude. I don't know how this motor will push once loaded down.

I think if I kept the steering wheel and controls, I'd have to model my layout after SmackDaddy's Pole Dancer. It's hard to believe how his boat is only 14'

I'm going to lay a small block of wood against the dent and take a few swings at it.

This website is too cool. I seriously spend all my free time on it.
Thanks everyone for making it what it is.


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## Master-deBaiter (May 26, 2015)

Didn't have much time to play with the boat before work today; but, I did get her down to a blank canvas..


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## Master-deBaiter (May 26, 2015)

Here are some more pictures of the dent:


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (May 26, 2015)

Take the side channel off and the dent will just about fix its self. Then you just have to straighten the channel.
A lot of the old Starcrafts have cracks in the hull near the ends of the ribs. Check very closely as the they will need to be fixed by riveting a patch on.
My Falcon came from the Green Bay area.


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## GYPSY400 (May 26, 2015)

I would fix the 35 and use it.. You can most likely use the handle and needed controls from that 25 'rude and they might have a spot to bolt up on the 35. Also adding a start and stop buttons ( assuming the 35 is E-start) is not a big deal. 

That boat has a lot of potential if you build it for what you need, and so far not a lot of money invested.


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## kcsphil (May 27, 2015)

Master-deBaiter said:


> Here are some more pictures of the dent:



I'm a little concerned about the middle picture - is the aluminum actually torn inside along the fold? If not then, yeah, you can hammer it out. I would also look at how the gunwale is attached to the top of the hull somewhere else - if its welded, then once you get everything abnge dout you need to clean the joint and get it welded too for strength.

those little forward cockpit boats with windshields are fairly cool from my perspective - and you should probably think about recovering the froward frames for a storage locker if you take off the forward controls for good. I wouldn't use that frame for anything you want to stand on . . . so no casting deck unless you lower it. 

Will you do a back bench for the tiller drive, or install a floor and seat?


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## Master-deBaiter (May 27, 2015)

I don't think it's torn on the inside; I'm not home right now so I can't take a look. I think, from picture deception, that is actually where the old steering controls rubbed along the hull and "burned" the rubber coating off the SS cable.
I'm planning on building a front casting deck, side rod lockers, and seat "pods" in the back...I don't know about a bench in the back. I've seen some previous remodels turn out really, really cool. I'm definitely using the archives as guides.

Here's what happened once I started removing the trim channel:


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## Master-deBaiter (May 27, 2015)

I forgot to answer about the floor.. I'm definitely putting a floor in.
I will be using aluminum to do my framing.. Someone from work wrecked an aluminum shelf so I was told to throw it away. There was one bent corner post on the shelving but all the other parts are in mint condition. I'll try and post a picture of the shelving later today. I also picked up some unique pieces of aluminum from the metal scrap yard - I'll try and post those pics later too.


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## Master-deBaiter (May 27, 2015)

I finished removing the trim channel and pounded on the dent a bit. It's not perfect, but I'm almost satisfied with the result.
I also managed to remove the transom despite getting rained on here and there.


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## CMOS (May 27, 2015)

That's going to be a darn fine rig. I'll be watching this project.


CMOS


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## Kris (May 27, 2015)

Years ago I was given a Starcraft runabout that I converted into a bass boat. Removed that big aluminum nose like you did. I put a completely flat floor in the boat, two bell pedestals, cooler livewell between them and hung a 40 horse tiller Mariner on the back. Also added a small deck at the bow for lights, anchor and trolling motor. Great little boat. Sold it to get my first Ranger.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (May 27, 2015)

The original stringer is 8' long 1.5" tall at the rear and 4.5" tall at the front. I've seen replacements made from 1.5" aluminum angle riveted together.


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## kcsphil (May 28, 2015)

I'd say your dent repair turned out pretty nicely. Will you be able to straighten the gunwale channel without damage too?


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## Master-deBaiter (May 28, 2015)

I still have the original stringer; I just took it out to give her a thorough cleaning.

I haven't tried to straighten the channel yet. I think with some patience and frustration, I should be able to coax it :wink: 

I have to do some vehicle shopping today so I might not have time to do much.


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## Master-deBaiter (May 28, 2015)

I tried to bend the channel today. I tried to insert chunks of wood inside to prevent unnecessary bending:


I messed up though...when trying to straighten it, I creased and tore the aluminum where it was bent.


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## Master-deBaiter (May 28, 2015)

As promised, here is a picture of the material I have for framing and decking:


The big pieces to the left were free from work. Everything else came from a metal scrap yard and only cost $20. The piece that's just to the right of the StarCraft logo, I have a total of four of those. The piece that's resting diagonally by my stern is an 8' long aluminum piano hinge. Also in the mix are some road signs that came from an apartment complex. 

I want this boat to last…lol


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## derekdiruz (May 29, 2015)

keep the motor if it's running, because you've effectively only paid 100 for the package as you mentioned. Its a good sized motor for that boat IMO and if you sold it you'd just pay more for a better motor! Haha, awesome build!


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## Master-deBaiter (Jun 4, 2015)

I want to thank everyone for the kind words and suggestions. I'm now waffling between a tiller set-up or a forward center console… I mentioned before, I'm hoping to make this boat into a fishing/duck hunting boat. I hear duck hunters complain about a center console taking up too much floor space, but then fishing friends say how nice it is to be able to stand while steering to look for weed beds. Any opinions?

I haven't had much time to work on the boat - got a new vehicle, took a camping trip, and have been working overtime like crazy. 

I did get a new transom glued up tonight:






I'd have done this two days ago, but we had overnight lows in the 30's.. Titebond III is not recommended to be used below 50.


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## Master-deBaiter (Jun 16, 2015)

Been pretty busy at work, usually pulling 14 hours of OT each week. I've made a little progress on the trailer; here it is before:

Here's where I'm at today after 1 rattle can of Rustoleum Stops Rust:

I've got a coat on each side of the transom so far. I'm going to drill the holes soon so I can hang it and coat the be-jesus out of the entire thing at one time


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## Master-deBaiter (Jul 27, 2015)

Getting back online after a minor hiatus. I've been camping and fishing a lot lately.
I've got the transom dropped in, now I just need to bolt it on.
I've also re-riveted the first piece of gunwale trim channel back on.
Oh, I also painted the trailer gray with a brush.


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## Master-deBaiter (Jul 30, 2015)

I came across a 35hp tiller for cheap on Craigslist. I'm not excited that it's a Force but it is in great shape. I also got a great deal on the 9.9 Evinrude to use as a kicker on my trolling boat


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## CMOS (Jul 31, 2015)

What did you pay for the 35?


CMOS


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## Master-deBaiter (Aug 1, 2015)

Electric start 35 hp Force tiller = $250
I still have that 35 hp Johnson too.. ..it's being worked on at a Marine shop. I have to call and check on that.


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## CMOS (Aug 1, 2015)

Master-deBaiter said:


> Electric start 35 hp Force tiller = $250
> I still have that 35 hp Johnson too.. ..it's being worked on at a Marine shop. I have to call and check on that.



$250 for a 35HP!? You stole that! =D> Why would they sell it for only $250?



CMOS


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## Master-deBaiter (Aug 2, 2015)

I'm a little concerned about the cheap price; however, it shifts smooth and doesn't have any problem starting (it has a brand new starter)
I'm definitely going to replace the impeller and/or water pump next season as a precautionary measure.


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## CMOS (Aug 2, 2015)

MDB,

I would suggest you replace that impeller now. It's still in unknown condition. Better to be safe and not risk the motor. It's a quick and easy thing to do.


CMOS


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## Master-deBaiter (Aug 3, 2015)

I suppose I could do it as adhesives are drying; I will DEFINITELY be taking your advice on that. Thank you, CMOS.


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## Master-deBaiter (Aug 5, 2015)

Fixed up the dented side with an aluminum "band-aid"


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## jethro (Aug 5, 2015)

Nice fix, looks just fine!


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## Master-deBaiter (Aug 5, 2015)

Thank you Jethro!

I finished getting the port-side trim back on after a little bending & two small cuts where it wouldn't bend:


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## CMOS (Aug 5, 2015)

Nicely done. =D> 


CMOS


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## Master-deBaiter (Aug 12, 2015)

Decided to be cheap and use wood for framing instead of aluminum


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## Master-deBaiter (Aug 13, 2015)

Got the rough cuts done on the front deck, added some aluminum bracing underneath the wide cross-piece, and added more 2x2 braces


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