# "Old Gold" - 1958 Alumacraft Deep C



## mgros483 (Jun 11, 2014)

Hey all, 

New guy here, I've been reading this forum for about a year now, but never posted. I love the projects you all have going on here, and if you've built anything on here, I've probably read it. So, I thought it's about time to contribute.

It all started last spring when I was at a boat ramp on the Mississippi River and saw this awesome piece of tin pull up to the dock:



2013-05-25 10.36.12 by Photo 144, on Flickr

I knew right then I needed to find one. So I scoured craigslist for a month or two and found one that looked appealing, it was about 2 hours from home, but I went there immediately. It looked in decent shape. I heard it run, hooked it up and pulled it home for $1200. The PO was a shadetree mechanic type, so everything worked fine, but the looks left something to be desired. As I was pulling out I got the "Oh I think I have the windshield in a brush pile in the back 40"....and he did.

Specs:

1958 Alumacraft Deep C - 15'
1976 Evinrude 40hp long shaft Model 40655A

This is the day I brought it home:



2013-06-10 08.37.34 by Photo 144, on Flickr



2013-06-11 18.39.05 by Photo 144, on Flickr

I started doing some research on it, and that's when I found tinboats. I decided to run it as-is last summer just to decide how I liked it, and what sort of amenities I wanted. I love fishing, but the wife said if I wanted her to come along, she needed a place to sun tan on the boat. So, I'm trying to get a best case scenario for the two. I dug through pretty much every build on here to get the basic newbie questions sorted out (used the 'search' function a lot, and didn't post a "hey I'm new, tell me what I should do" topic....that drives me nuts). 

Here's the original brochure, just for fun:



Alumacraftb58009 by Photo 144, on Flickr

I decided I wanted a carpeted rear deck, wide gunwales to mount rod holders/downriggers/beer holders/speakers, and nice moveable pedestal seats. Also, I live in the middle of BFE so I needed to get most of my basic supplies from a local hardware store, or the occasional trip to Menards in the big city. 

So, this spring rolled around and I dragged Old Gold out of the snowbank and got to work. That was four weeks ago.

First step was cleaning it out, removing the motor and replacing the transom. The transom wood was rotten inside and out, so I replaced it. I used standard exterior plywood (non-treated, of course) I got BC grade (one side sanded with no large knots), it was a little more pricey, but I didn't want a bunch of knot holes to fill, and wanted a halfway decent appearance. 

For the external part of the transom, I used 1/2", cut to size and for the inside part I used 1 piece of 3/4" and one piece of 1/2" wood glued together. Both got stained and 6 coats of spar varnish. Then attached with stainless steel hardware, silicone on all the holes.




2014-05-04 11.59.17 by Photo 144, on Flickr




2014-05-04 14.05.43 by Photo 144, on Flickr




2014-04-13 17.37.45 by Photo 144, on Flickr




2014-05-08 10.39.17 by Photo 144, on Flickr




2014-05-15 17.15.15 by Photo 144, on Flickr




2014-05-15 19.35.42 by Photo 144, on Flickr




2014-05-15 19.35.48 by Photo 144, on Flickr

As you can tell from those pics, I started framing in my deck/gunwales while waiting for the varnish coats to dry (which takes forever in Wisconsin in the spring). I used 2x2 framing for the gunwales, 2x4 supports for the midship deck that were attached with joist hangers to the benches. Also did some fitting to make sure my tanks would fit in the back. Then cut and fit the 3/4" plywood for the deck, and 1/2" plywood for covering the sides and top of the gunwales. I also have a 2x6 across the stern for mounting rod holders. 




2014-05-08 16.01.31 by Photo 144, on Flickr




2014-05-08 16.25.19 by Photo 144, on Flickr




2014-05-08 19.01.02 by Photo 144, on Flickr




2014-05-19 20.02.36 by Photo 144, on Flickr




2014-05-19 20.02.54 by Photo 144, on Flickr




2014-05-25 13.58.53 by Photo 144, on Flickr




2014-05-24 11.33.32 by Photo 144, on Flickr




2014-05-23 16.55.34 by Photo 144, on Flickr




2014-05-23 20.09.54 by Photo 144, on Flickr

Once it was mostly fit up, I pulled it all out to get varnished (4 coats). I did the 2x2 frame first and the 1/2" ply for the gunwales and sides. Haven't finished the floor yet, because I still need to cut and fit for my pedestal bases.




2014-05-25 14.50.52 by Photo 144, on Flickr




2014-05-25 19.38.19 by Photo 144, on Flickr

While that was drying, I pulled the fuel tanks apart and gave them a good cleaning, and a new seal under the pickup mechanism. Also, found a fawn...irrelevant, I know, but the tank was in the picture, so that's my excuse.




2014-05-28 20.57.01 by Photo 144, on Flickr




2014-05-28 20.56.49 by Photo 144, on Flickr




2014-06-03 20.13.02 by Photo 144, on Flickr

Like most tin that's been around 56 years, it has had plenty of PO's that have mounted all kinds of crap and have holes drilled everywhere, so I've been spending a lot of quality time with a DA sander (80 grit pads) and JB Marine-Weld putty to get things straightened out. I'm still not done with this, but it's getting better. The PO had silicone all over around this bracket on the stern also, so I got all of that out of there and JB'ed that on the inside, and also the seam on the outside. It didn't leak all summer, but I thought it couldn't hurt. Also, while sanding on the last two awful paint jobs, I found the original decals, I probably won't replace them, but still was a fun find. 




2014-05-08 12.05.13 by Photo 144, on Flickr




2014-05-08 12.05.19 by Photo 144, on Flickr




2014-06-06 20.05.32 by Photo 144, on Flickr

So, getting up to the present, I started putting the varnished pieces back in, cleaned up the motor, and ordered a ridiculous amount of stuff from Cabelas/Gander Mtn/Bass Pro Shops. I couldn't resist setting my seats in to see what it might look like. Also notice I cut the handles off my tanks to get clearance in the stern. I'm sure someone is cringing about cutting up the old tanks, but you gotta work with what you have, ya know.




2014-06-06 20.05.44 by Photo 144, on Flickr




2014-06-08 11.12.01 by Photo 144, on Flickr




2014-06-08 11.12.14 by Photo 144, on Flickr

So I have to go out of town for work for the rest of the week/weekend, but hope to get crankin on it more next week. 

My goal with this is to have a nice boat for not too much cash, and also to get it done quickly. So, disclaimer, my methods probably aren't 100% the best possible thing to do in every scenario, but I didn't want to learn any new skills (fiberglass), spend too much cash (marine ply), or have to look all over the world for specialty things (marine ply, again). Also, I don't have much access to metalworking equipment, or aluminum scraps for that matter. So, although I really would like this all to be Aluminum, that will have to wait for the next time around. Overall I think it's going to last pretty well, and it's a fun project. So, if I have to do it again in 5 years, I'm ok with that. But, I think it will last longer than that with proper care.

Stay tuned, I'll be installing the seat bases, doing a buttload of electrical work, and painting this rig soon. Hoping to have this baby on the water in another 3 weeks looking decent.

Welp, that was one helluva first post, eh?

If you have any questions or suggestions, I'd love to hear them. This forum will keep me going while I'm working all week away from my project.

Marty


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## Kismet (Jun 11, 2014)

That's a beautiful craft.

Well-done.

Classic and handsome when you bought it. I think you should be very pleased.

=D> =D> =D>


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## bobberboy (Jun 15, 2014)

Any more progress?


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## mgros483 (Jun 15, 2014)

Just returned from the weekend, so no. Hopefully get something accomplished tomorrow.


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## mgros483 (Jun 25, 2014)

Apparently, Wisconsin is a rainforest this year, so I haven't had much progress. Every time I have time to do some work, it's raining and I have to work outside. But, today I got a couple hours to mess around after work. 

Drilled my holes for the pin pedestal bases through the plywood and the aluminum bench. I still have to enlarge the holes some due to the flaring of the base near the anchor plate. I don't have a hole saw large enough, so I'll have to cut an additional 7/8" of radius on the hole in order for the base to sit flush with the deck. 



2014-06-25 19.59.43 by Photo 144, on Flickr

I had no idea what to expect in these benches, I thought maybe there would be foam, but it is just a sealed air compartment. Well, there are two dividers in it as well, so actually there are three sealed air compartments in each bench. Might be useful info for anyone else working on one of these old alumacrafts. Due to the pedestal bases being a straight hole through the bench, I lost my flotation in there and also had to drill some drain holes in the back of the benches in three places so it can drain if any rain gets through the pedestal base. I am going to put blue closed cell foam in the new gunwales to compensate for this loss and the added weight of the deck. 



2014-06-25 19.59.50 by Photo 144, on Flickr

I set the seats in the holes to get a feel for how it will look. The seats in this pic are how they will be for just cruising around. Then, the other two holes will be used with the same seats. I will be able to pull them out, put them on tall pins and have two raised seats for fishing on the deck. Pretty good compromise to keep it versatile for fishing/cruising (aka, keeping the wife happy). 



2014-06-25 20.00.29 by Photo 144, on Flickr

Also started to install some 1 1/2x1 1/2" aluminum angle pieces for additional support around the hatches. Forgot to take pics of that. 

My plywood got a bit wet one night when the tarp blew off, so I'm letting it dry for a few days before I can apply the spar varnish.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Jun 26, 2014)

Looks good. The weight you added is wood and wood floats.


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## mgros483 (Jun 29, 2014)

A little more done on the boat this weekend. Put in some additional support for the deck using 1/8x1 1/2x1 1/2 aluminum angle. Turns out the quality control wasn't the greatest in 1958. My rear bench was not riveted on level. So, the deck wouldn't sit flat on the bench top, hence the angle on the sides. The angle under the center hatch is just for additional support.









Also cut the holes for my rear switch/fuse panel, 12v socket and fuse.





Then installed some foam in the gunwales. Just an FYI for anyone working with the blue foam. I had some PL400 construction adhesive lying around and I thought I'd use it to hold my foam together...didn't work. Smelled like someone was burning plastic and it ate away at the foam until it dried. Needless to say, switched to some silicone after that. 





First coat of spar varnish is drying on the deck right now, so hopefully will get to installing seats and carpet very soon.


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## DrainBamage (Jun 30, 2014)

Thanks for checking out my build, what you're doing with the rear deck and well is just about the same thing I had planned to do. 

Any idea if spar varnish will prevent the ply from checking over time? Do you plant to carpet over anything?


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## mgros483 (Jun 30, 2014)

Based on what I've seen on this site, the spar varnish will do fine. 

The other option is epoxy, which might be better for the long term, but I just went with the spar varnish because it's easy to find. Also, a lot of people have had good luck with it on their builds.

I will be carpeting pretty much the whole inside of the boat, I bought the gray "starboard" carpet from menards.


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## GoneFishin34 (Jul 2, 2014)

Great build!! The fawn find cracked me up.


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## GoneFishin34 (Jul 2, 2014)

One more thing - you don't think you'll ever have to remove those tanks, do you? Just looked like it might be hard to remove them, if you had to. Maybe you wont ever need to though..


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## mgros483 (Jul 2, 2014)

Yeah the tanks aren't coming out. Let's hope they hold up, otherwise I'll be cutting them up.


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## GoneFishin34 (Jul 2, 2014)

I'm sure they will! I have a plastic tank and don't know much about the metal ones. I'd be willing to bet you wont have to.. just an observation!


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## mgros483 (Jul 10, 2014)

Not much progress due to the holidays and fishing in the other operable tin boat, but got my battery cables mostly finished last night. I got a second battery, it's smaller and not in the greatest shape, but it will do for now at least to get the wiring all how I want it and test the weight and balance. 

I used 4 gauge cable all around, was going to go with the 6 gauge originally used in the boat, but the 4 ga. was only a few dollars more. Used copper cable ends, soldered them in with the propane torch and put 1/2" heat shrink over the top. The battery switch has much larger posts than the batteries and the motor, so ended up having to drill out the ends to fit. I couldn't find circuit breakers for the battery cables locally, so I went without them for now. I've never had them on any boat I had, so I'm not sure if they're truly necessary on a small boat. But, if anyone has any opinions on where to get one and what size, I might look into installing them.

Also scored a free trolling motor from my stepdad. I want a foot control, but this thing is about brand new, only used twice on a kayak. I might just sell it and put the money toward a minn kota foot control. So if anyone has eyes out for one of these, I'd be glad to discuss selling it. It's a minn kota endura 30, if my memory serves me right. I can check into details when I get home.

Still putting layers of varnish on the decking, should be ready to install tomorrow when I have the cables all situated how I want them. 

Not very interesting pics, but here you go:




image 




image


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## memyself (Jul 10, 2014)

How did you take out and install the inner transom? Did you have to drill out the rivets on the supports and re rivet? What about the end caps? Did you have to take those out?


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## mgros483 (Jul 10, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=359090#p359090 said:


> memyself » 10 Jul 2014, 15:25[/url]"]How did you take out and install the inner transom? Did you have to drill out the rivets on the supports and re rivet? What about the end caps? Did you have to take those out?



Yes, you have to drill out the rivets in the support, then you have to pound the supports evenly toward the outer sides of the splashwell a few inches, then pound the front end of the support toward the centerline of the boat. It seems like it would be easier to just drill them out then pound the fronts outward, but it doesn't work that way. The supports must not quite be symmetrical or something.

This is really hard to explain in text, I wish you could see my hand movements, haha.

The end caps did not have to come out on mine, at least, just the screw going down into the inner transom board. 

Getting it back in was a little tricky, but some work with a pry bar and a mallet got it in eventually and smashed my fingers numerous times in the process.


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## mgros483 (Jul 13, 2014)

Finally finished varnishing the deck so I could start making some headway. Finished up what little I had left on the new battery cables and battery switch.

I installed the four swivl-eze pedestal bases with t-nuts into the 3/4" deck. I used loctite on all the screws, then proceeded to hammer all of the t-nuts from the back side, then flip it over and tighten the screws. Repeated this four times before the screws wouldn't tighten all the way. Might be useful info for anyone doing the same thing, if I just tightened them as tight as they would go the first time, I'm sure they would have worked loose in a short time. Since I'm carpeting over the bases, that would be a big problem.

Also (not in the pictures) I put some PL400 construction adhesive on the bottom of the bases before installing them. Probably overkill, but I really want these things to be sturdy since I'm not putting them through the aluminum benches. 



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Then I screwed down the deck with sheet metal screws into the benches and wood screws into my 2x4' bracing. I went overkill with these too, most likely. 



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Once everything was in I had to test out the seats and they work perfectly. No flex at all at the bases. Took pics of it in both modes, cruising with the seats down, and fishing up on the pin pedestals. Of course I sat on them and made pretend fishing motions in the yard. Scared the neighbors.



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I used some bondo to patch up a few gaps, so that will be dried out tomorrow and I'll be ready for carpet. Getting closer to getting her in the water, can't wait.


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## mgros483 (Jul 16, 2014)

Just a quick picture update, started carpeting. I used weldwood contact cement. I bought both that and outdoor adhesive, but once I tried the contact cement I was hooked. Very fast and easy to work with. Just lay out your pieces cut roughly where you want them, put weight on one half to hold it down in place, lay down cement on the deck and the carpet, wait a few minutes and slap it on. Still stayed wet enough to do some minor adjustments and trim the ends up to fit. Then when that's stuck, pull your weight off the other side and do the second half. 

I'm very pleased with how quickly the carpet is going, would have finished the whole thing in one afternoon, but had to shoot on my trap league and then it looked like rain after that. Going to finish it up tonight.

I'm having flashbacks to my days of being a commercial floor layer...I wish I still had the skills I used to with carpet, my seams would look much better than they do, but I'm happy with it so far.




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## Robvanbeck (Jul 17, 2014)

LookIng good! Love this boat! Id love one like it for trolling outta Milwaukee. Maybe the next project.


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## mgros483 (Jul 21, 2014)

Got Phase One of the carpet completed this weekend. I ran out of contact cement by the time I got to the final, center hatch lid, so I decided to use some of the indoor/outdoor carpet adhesive I bought but planned on returning. Let me tell you, contact cement is the way to go. I finished it off with the glue, but contact cement would have made the job much easier, especially wrapping the edges of the hatches. I ended up having to use a lot of stainless staples to hold it together right while it dried. The contact cement would have just stuck them in the right spot the first try. 




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Yes, I know she's too old for a pacifier...a constant battle in my house.




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I was originally going to put in recessed handles for the hatches, but decided to save some cash and just cut up an old strap I had to make some loops. They work well and were free to me.




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Also got a lot of odds and ends done. Installed bilge pump, hooked up batteries, and ran the motor in a water tank to make sure everything was clicking. I am having a problem with my control cables being too short now that the deck is on and it has to make a couple of extra turns. If anyone has any tips, I'd like to hear them. I'm trying to figure out another way to route them now, but I really would like all of my cables/hoses to all come out of the center hole in my rod holder section by the splashwell. Anyone ever replace/extend control cables? Is it difficult/expensive?

I got my steering hooked up after a lot of cursing and repetitive work due to stupid mistakes. Finally ended up having to pull the whole cable out and off the drum and re-winding the whole deal....twice, because I wound it backward the first time. Word of advice for anyone dealing with cable and drum steering: Do a lot of thinking and figuring out how it works before you put it all together the wrong way. It seems simple, but for some reason it gave me a real hard time.

I'm currently kicking myself for not figuring out my fuel line situation before installing the deck. I got impatient because I didn't have the supplies to do it at the time and it's a long ride to a decent store out here. It's really a tight space to work and I'm hoping I don't end up having to just ditch my big metal tanks and switch to small plastic ones. We shall see.

Up next will be some more carpeting, installing front seats/swivels, figuring out and mounting the controls, and a lot of wiring.


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## NextTopBassFisherman (Jul 22, 2014)

Looking good! =D>


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## Action (Jul 22, 2014)

Nice!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## BayouSerpent (Jul 24, 2014)

Wow, that came out very nice! Good to see a wood build on here, I have seen a lot of aluminum decking/framing. I like how it really comes down to the preference of the boat owner. Going to really review your post and learn a few tricks for my builds. Thanks for your hard work!


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## mgros483 (Mar 16, 2015)

The awesome Wisconsin weather has allowed me to get the rig out and keep making progress. I've been staring at it all winter just waiting to dig in again. Everything's starting to thaw out here, so I'm itchin' to get out on that soft water.

This weekend I got it uncovered and spent some time just cleaning it up and assessing the situation and got right to it.

I carpeted the front bench seat and installed the swivel bases and seats. It is finally starting to look like I had imagined.



Untitled by Photo 144, on Flickr




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After that I got started on the electrical work, pullled all of the old rat's nest out and started rebuilding. Got the new ignition switch wired up but then found that the fuse in the motor is blown, so I have to pick one of those up. Next up is wiring up the bilge pump, nav lights, TM plug and fish finder. Then getting longer control cables and patching the rest of the million old bolt/screw holes. Might even paint it before I take it out, but probably not. Definitely want to replace my impeller/housing before I start boating and procrastinate it.

I have realized that if I just keep it pulled apart and on dry land until I get all of my dreams accomplished, it will be forever before I use it. So, I decided to just wait on carpeting the sides/floor, interior lighting, etc. until after I use it for a couple months. So I'm on the fast track to getting it done and on the water!

Placed an order today at Cabela's for a 2-bank on board charger. FYI they are having a sale on them and there's a free shipping deal if you spend $99. Not sure how long it lasts but thought I'd give everyone a heads-up. 

Also ordered a windshield "gasket" from iboats. They have it cheaper than ebay if anyone is looking for one of those.


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## jasper60103 (Mar 16, 2015)

Yea, the weather was awesome this weekend and I can't wait to hit the water too.
I just noticed this thread.
That's a great looking project you got there.
Good luck.

-jasper


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## mgros483 (Jun 23, 2015)

Just realized I haven't added to this in a bit. Just did a bunch of wiring, so nothing really worth taking pics of. But if anyone cares, there's a 2 bank onboard charger, switch panel (doesn't control anything yet, it's for future accessories), new nav lights and switches, trolling motor with a plug and a bilge pump. 

Still to come is a fix for the windshield, stereo, interior lighting and of course a paint job. It gets hard to work on these things once it's in good enough shape to use though!

Here's a pic from this weekend in Northern Wisconsin


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## CrappieSlayer36 (Jun 25, 2015)

I purchased a 1960 deep c the other day. Drove about 6 hours round trip to go get it, but once I seen the logo on the side and knew what it was. I left 5 mins later cash in hand and now she is home and mine. The front window and front cover is missing from mine. 

I am going to make her a tiller controlled fishing machine. Just got her back from the welder today fixing 55 years worth of mounted screw holes and what not. Those boats are built like tanks. I can't wait to start my mod.


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## VinTin (Jun 25, 2015)

The Deep C is a very well built ship!

I was lucky to find a 1956 Deep C in original unmolested condition about six months ago.

I've got a 1960 V-4 75hp Evinrude short shaft motor I hope to get on it soon.

It should rip up the water!

I"ve also got a 1956 Cruiseabout, a 1951 Model R and a 1956 FD, all in original condition.

Love these old Alumacraft ships!


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## sonny.barile (Jun 26, 2015)

Wow That is a pretty piece of history. Cant find anything like that where I live. The lines on those old boats are absolutely beautiful.


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## CMOS (Jun 26, 2015)

Darn fine build you have here. Magnificent.


CMOS


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## g0nef1sshn (Jun 26, 2015)

really looking good!


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## mgros483 (Jul 10, 2015)

Just a boring update, I rebuilt the carburetor and the water pump last night so it's fresh and clean for the weekend. 

Just for anyone contemplating changing a water pump, it's super easy. I have never done it before, and in fact have never even pulled the lower unit off of an outboard. I followed the factory service manual process, but honestly other than disconnecting the shift rod, I probably would have just figured it out on the first try without the manual. So, if you have a new water pump kit sitting in your garage and have been procrastinating it because it sounds difficult (exactly what I was doing up until last night), just do it. It took me 30 minutes, I did it out in my yard, and it was dark by the time I finished and I still got it right. 

Rebuilding the carb was uneventful. I've done a lot of carb fixing in the past so I knew I had a shoddy float valve. I replaced it as well as pulled apart everything that wasn't under an orifice plug. The only thing that is still bugging me is that my low speed needle is pretty worn. It doesn't have the greatest idle in the world, but it works. I was going to order a new one, but they're $50 each, which I think is crazy. I'll just stick with the worn one until it gets bad enough that I think it's worth dropping a big-face Grant on.

Planning on taking it out this weekend then if the weather cooperates, It'll be on to painting next week. 

https://www.youtube.com/embed/h62q6ArrINc


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## TexasLoneStar56 (Jul 10, 2015)

I have been following your thread and watching from afar. You have come a long way. Keep up the good work! =D> =D> =D> She's looking purdy! :mrgreen:

I'm with you on the part of playing for awhile and let the work start back up in the fall/winter. It's summer time.....go play! :LOL2: 

M
Tyler, Texas

PS: I love the old windshield. You are very fortunate to have it.


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## mgros483 (Jul 13, 2015)

Proof that photoshop can make anything look good...

Should get around to the painting soon, but until then, proper positioning and photoshop are key to a good pic 



GOPR1416 by Photo 144, on Flickr


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## TexasLoneStar56 (Jul 13, 2015)

=D> =D> =D> Beautiful!


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## Johnny (Jul 14, 2015)

just to amplify the others, I also am in AWE of your craftsmanship !!
Of all the positives, only one negative gnaws at my innards . . . 
and that is the two steel gas tanks.... They appear to be permanently installed.


Here in Florida, boating is as popular as the Disney attractions.
we see a *LOT* of gas station fires where people fill their metal gas containers
while inside the truck bed, landscape trailer or boat. If you fill your cans while in the boat, 
my personal and very strong advice is to make a grounding wire with an alligator clip on each end
and ground the tank to the appropriate ground somewhere outside your vehicle/trailer/boat.

Please use your best judgement and ample caution when refueling.

Jus my Dos Centavos




.


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## mgros483 (Jul 14, 2015)

Barefoot,

Thanks for the tip. I had heard of the phenomenon, but I didn't know if it was a legitimate concern or not. More often than not, I fill my boat with a 5 gal. plastic can, but occasionally I do fill from the pump. Does the potential for this type of fire to happen when filling with a gas can? I think not, but I don't know the underlying cause of the ignition. 

Thanks for the kind words on the boat, it's a fun project. Can't wait to get it painted up, then it'll look good finally.


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## Johnny (Jul 14, 2015)

again - you have done an _AWESOME_ job on your build !!!

Here in Florida, there are stickers on ALL gas pumps containing safety advisories . . . 
NO cell phones, NO smoking, NO filling of containers that are not on the ground,
NO going inside your car and coming back out when the filler hose shuts off.
I have seen similar stickers in the past while traveling. So, all these notices are in place for a reason.
Gasoline vapors are heavier than air when cold, lighter than air when warm. Like in summer.
So theoretically, gasoline vapors are all around you when fueling your car or containers.
One spark is all it takes. And, just about anything can cause that ONE that ruins your day.
Google up Gas Station Fires and see what you find. It's not pretty.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tuZxFL9cGkI
https://www.google.com/search?q=gas+station+fires&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0CDYQ7AlqFQoTCN_874b82sYCFUuZHgodENQLyQ&biw=1297&bih=604

My bass boat has a plastic 12 gallon tank that is too heavy for me to move around when full.
So, I use the plastic 5 gal jugs and set the jug on the motor and siphon the gas into the 
12 gal tank. I never ever fill jugs while in the back of my car. Never.
Err on the side of safety, and you will live to fish another day.

and, if you think it can never happen to you - - - 
check out the recent post of BowHunter1661 - - - and ask him how he feels about the saying,
it only happens to OTHER people - never happen to me.

Oh, one technique that I practice, and try to pass on to others, is - - - 
do not stand between the gas hose and your open car door.
so if there IS a fire ball, you are not trapped between the two. Think about it.
stand on the outside of the hose - just in case you have to run away quickly.

Just put some thought into how to protect you and your beautiful investment.


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## mgros483 (Jul 14, 2015)

Thanks Barefoot, but maybe I worded my question wrong. Do I still need to worry if I'm filling my boat tank by using a plastic jug? I think not, but who knows. I always fill my plastic gas jug on the ground, but I guess it's just coincidence rather than attention to safety. I just think it's easier than reaching up in the truck bed the whole time.

As for the warning stickers, yes, we have them here too. In all honesty I've read them and still do all those things except smoke.... Sometimes you get overwhelmed by all the warnings on every single thing you look at in this litigious world we live in. Never know which ones to heed and which to ignore. 

Thanks for the advice, you may have saved my boat and maybe me from disaster.

PS Bowhunter's story scared me straight yesterday, I think everyone should read that post. In case you haven't seen it: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=38624


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## Johnny (Jul 14, 2015)

in my line of thought, there shouldn't be any chance of "static spark" when using
the plastic jugs and plastic hoses to transfer fuel from one tank to another.

*IMO*, it is your _BODY_ that creates the spark. And looking at several boats on this
forum, the battery is almost always right next to the fuel tank. Including mine.
If you somehow create a spark from the battery to your body - poof = day ruined.
I have a fully open and well ventilated compartment where my gas and battery are kept.
When transferring fuel, ALL the hatches are open. 

Am I paranoid about gas ?
LOL you betcha !! LOL I wish I had a photo of myself at the age of 10 when I poured gas 
all over the grass to burn it off to play baseball. I guess I was thinking (or NOT thinking)
it would burn slow like kerosene . . . WHOOOSH !!! all my hair, eyebrows, eyelashes - gone.
some blisters on my arms and legs. I had on shorts - no shirt or shoes, which probably
saved my life or severe injuries from the burning clothes if I had had on long pants and shirt.

I guess the older we get - the more awful things we see - and the more cautious we become.

Jus my Dos Centavos


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## TexasLoneStar56 (Jul 15, 2015)

> I guess the older we get - the more awful things we see - and the more cautious we become.



AMEN! We didn't get old by being a fool. Just sayin......

Fact: a cigarette will go out if dropped in liquid gasoline.....it's the vapors that ignite.

Very, very good advise on here. Thanks for sharing.

I have often wondered about the battery being so close to the gas containers. I see that in a lot of flat bottoms here, including our daughters'. Plastic cans and open compartments, but never the less.....all it takes is one spark.

Keep up the good work on "Old Gold"! She's a beauty!


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## mgros483 (Jul 20, 2015)

Fun day out with the dogs. It's really hard to get this thing painted when it's on the water every weekend!


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## TexasLoneStar56 (Jul 20, 2015)

Totally awesome pics! =D> 
No worries.....summer is for having fun on the lake; winter is for painting.


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## VinTin (Jul 21, 2015)

I have a 15 gallon fixed in place plastic tank in one of my aluminum boats. A precaution I take before filling is to touch the gasoline pump nozzle to the side of the boat before flowing any fuel. This should discharge any static electricity. On the subject of painting......I've not seen a paint yet that I like more than the beautiful patina bare aluminum develops. Ever seen a painted Airstream camping trailer? Didn't think so.


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## mgros483 (Jul 21, 2015)

@vintin I'd love to have bare aluminum, that's my favorite too! But, there are about a thousand holes in this boat above the water line from the previous owner, so it would look horrible if polished


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## mgros483 (Apr 14, 2016)

I'm reviving my build thread from the dead because I've had a change of heart. After fishing/cruising with it in it's current design, I realize that it's 1) Way too light in the bow 2) very difficult to fish from/anchor without access to the bow 3) short on deck space when I bring the family & dogs.

So, I've decided to remove the bow cap... I know people don't like to see these old runabouts modified, and I'm not sure if I'll like the new setup, but I have good news. The cap on these boats is extremely easy to remove and does no permanent damage to the cap or the boat. I literally had the cap removed by myself in 10 minutes. 





First impression: I can't believe how much room there is that was of no use to me before.

I have a layout in mind that I've been working on while getting paid to do other things in the office. Basically, I'm making it a side console and moving the drivers seat back one bench. I already have a seat there, so it's really just a matter of moving the controls. As a side bonus, my control cables were always too short to hide under the deck, so they have had to ride on top of the gunwale which is extremely annoying to me. With the new setup, I will be able to hide them completely since I'm moving the control box back about 3 feet. 





Here's a pic of my initial mock up of the design. Picture a console in there between the cooler and the wheel. This will give me a nice amount of space out front for a casting deck, my new trolling motor (Minn Kota Powerdrive V2 55# with I-Pilot), and my new RTIC cooler that I ordered. Of course, the cooler in the boat now is just a cheap, broken one I have but it's good enough for laying things out. This is the cooler that will go in that space and be recessed into the deck by 6":





The deck will be 6" higher than the bench which will still leave some of the side walls exposed and keep the deck a bit lower for stability. I don't need or want a deck that's flush to the gunwales. The 2x4's in this pic roughly show where the deck height will be:





In the end I want to be able to have a nice pedestal seat in the front and also move some weight up under that front deck. I think with the new TM, two batteries, and anchors along with the decking should balance out my boat quite nicely. 

I got a bunch of crap removed last night that was in the way and installed the first board across the bench to use as reference to build the rest of the framing. I'll keep you posted. Basically, I'm doing the same style as MassFisherman did on his Starcraft https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=19040

At this point I'm looking at building my console myself out of wood unless someone has a cheap side console laying around. I don't want to pay what they're asking for one of the aluminum drop-in ones, although they look nice. So, if you have one that you think might work, PM me!


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## mgros483 (Jun 21, 2018)

I was talking with my wife while out on 'Old Gold' this weekend and realized that I never brought closure to my build thread on here. It's come a long way and I can finally say that I'm done with this project. There may be a few things here and there that I'll work on, but that is the fun of boat ownership. 

Work was intermittent because we were using the boat as much as possible, but it still needed all the final touches.















I built the front deck from 2x4's which was probably overkill but it's not that much weight despite how it looks in the pictures. I fitted a plastic tote, a milk crate and an RTIC cooler in the deck for storage as well as two seat mounts so you can put a pedestal seat on or a rear facing regular seat. 


















I built a side console out of plywood as well and mounted all my controls and electrical on it. Included in this was a stereo system with bluetooth, a new fuse panel, new switches, and some red LED lights for night time that are mounted under one of the original aluminum benches. 






Then I carpeted it up and got to painting on the hull inside and out. Also I used a plastic cutting board to mount my speakers, a 12v plug and my trolling motor plug. The trolling motor is a Minnkota 12V that I added iPilot to for full GPS and remote functionality. 










Finishing touches were the custom cut decals on the hull and some (near) replacement decals for the motor. 






It's a great boat and I couldn't be happier with how it turned out. It would probably really rock with a 60hp on it, but I get great acceleration as it is and it tops out at about 23 mph when I'm in it by myself. 















And here's the official before/after pics. Without knowing the details, it doesn't look that striking, but it was a lot of work!










If you guys have any questions or want any more details, feel free to ask! Until then, I call this one finished.


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## LDUBS (Jun 21, 2018)

Very nice looking boat. At first glance I thought that eagle was sitting on your bow cap.


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## Bridge4 (Jun 22, 2018)

Looks great! I think everything came out nice from the paint to the new deck. Looks like you will be getting lots of good use out of it too =D>


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## LDUBS (Jun 23, 2018)

In the last picture it looks like the steering console magically moved to the left side of the boat. Has to be a camera angle or optical illusion kind of thing. Or, my eyes are playing tricks on me. Haha.


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## New River Rat (Jun 23, 2018)

LDUBS said:


> Has to be.......optical illusion kind of thing. Or, my eyes are playing tricks on me. Haha.



If you were in Alaska, you could get your eyes checked by an optical Aleutian ....


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## LDUBS (Jun 28, 2018)

New River Rat said:


> LDUBS said:
> 
> 
> > Has to be.......optical illusion kind of thing. Or, my eyes are playing tricks on me. Haha.
> ...




Aiieeeee! Haha.


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## SmilingBob (Aug 31, 2020)

mgros483,

The gold and white color scheme on your 58 Alumacraft Deep C has given me an inspiration for painting my 58 Starcraft 16' Constellation runabout. Reminds me of a late 50s hotrod. 

SmilingBob


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