# Punch for removing jet grates?



## Seth (Aug 20, 2014)

I've never removed my grates before, but need to remove them and straighten them after a weekend of gravel grinding due to really low water conditions. Do I need a punch that's as wide as the jet foot to be able to remove the pins holding in the jet grates or does it give away after going in so far? I don't have a set of punches handy so I need to buy some and just want to make sure I buy the right tool for the job.

Also, does anybody have a picture of Lil BlueRude's sharpening method? I found the old posts where he was talking to me about it, but the pics seem to be missing now.


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## dhoganjr (Aug 20, 2014)

I usually use a cheap long shank screwdriver that fits in the hole and tap it out. When you get to the end grab the other side with pliers and pull it out, if it doesn't move twist it back and forth.

On the impeller just sharpen the top side of the blades. If you look through the grates the side of the blades you see is what I call the bottom. I file the bottom just enough to get the big nicks out.


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## dhoganjr (Aug 20, 2014)

You will probably have burrs and nicks toward the top of the impeller, file them smooth also, it doesn't take much for them usually 1 or 2 passes. 

Also file the edges of the grates, some file them to a chisel tip. I just beveled mine a bit. I tried the chisel point before and it seemed to jam a lot more rocks and wood in them. It does help give a cleaner flow of water but I think if you hit bottom a lot beveling them works better.


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## Lil' Blue Rude (Aug 20, 2014)

Yeah I sharpen mine like dhoganjr says.


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## smackdaddy53 (Aug 21, 2014)

I wish my grate pins were that easy to get out. I beat the crap out of mine with a good 1/4" punch and they will not budge. I hit the punch so hard I was scared I'd crack my jet foot. I even drilled the holes a little because someone mentioned the holes are flared from the factory and that did nothing. Heated them up and nothing. Soaked in penetrating oil and still nothing works. I'm about to cut the grates in the middle and move them back and forth to help break some of the corrosion free and see if that does the trick.


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## RiverBottomOutdoors (Aug 21, 2014)

I punch mine out with a pin punch (flat on end to keep from flaring the pin). The pin itself is sprung, so once you get it to a point you can pull it out....just wrap a rag around it and pull out with vise grips. Sometimes a little harder to get out depending on how much tension is on it from the bent grate bars. I sharpened my bars once but noticed no difference in performance on my stock motor. Might make a difference with a supped up motor.

I take a rope and thread it around severely bent bars....then use like a whipping snatching motion to pop them out. 

I've read horror stories in forums of guys that use their OBJ in saltwater and don't disassemble the pump like they are supposed to. Stainless pins bond to the cast alum foot and they can't get them out. If I remember right, if you use in salt, supposed to disassemble the entire pump twice a year.


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## Seth (Aug 21, 2014)

That was easy enough. I just used an allen wrench and rubber mallet to get them started and twisted them out with pliers.


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## dhoganjr (Aug 21, 2014)

It works best to keep at them. Take them out at least once a year so they don't build up as much corrosion, sand, and dirt. More in a saltwater environment which is doubtful that mine will ever see.


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## smackdaddy53 (Aug 21, 2014)

I guess I'm cutting mine out then.


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## SaltyGhost (Aug 22, 2014)

A threaded rod works good for pounding them out all the way. When replacing the rods coat them with marine wheel bearing grease so they don't seize up in there. They should probably be taken out and put back in once a year as a preventative measure.


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## Seth (Aug 23, 2014)

I took it out and ran the boat after getting the grates straightened and the impeller sharpened from the top side. It jumped up on plane instantly and ran just like the day I brought it home.

The only issue is the motor gave me fits trying to start when I went to leave! It would crank, but never tried to fire. After trying for 10 minutes, it finally fired up and ran for a few minutes before it started slowly losing RPM's and power. It has done the RPM loss while running thing a few times before in the past five trips out. Looks like it will be going to Cowtown so they can figure out what the deal is.

I stopped and started it several times back at the boat ramp and it was fine again.


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## smackdaddy53 (Aug 23, 2014)

Seth said:


> I took it out and ran the boat after getting the grates straightened and the impeller sharpened from the top side. It jumped up on plane instantly and ran just like the day I brought it home.
> 
> The only issue is the motor gave me fits trying to start when I went to leave! It would crank, but never tried to fire. After trying for 10 minutes, it finally fired up and ran for a few minutes before it started slowly losing RPM's and power. It has done the RPM loss while running thing a few times before in the past five trips out. Looks like it will be going to Cowtown so they can figure out what the deal is.
> 
> I stopped and started it several times back at the boat ramp and it was fine again.


Sounds like a fuel problem. It is starving for fuel and every time you stop and start it the fuel catches up then is used up and dies.


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## Seth (Aug 23, 2014)

With all the emissions crap on this new fuel tank setup they started putting in the 2014 models, I wouldn't be surprised if it has something to do with it.


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## Jetboater-TB (Aug 24, 2014)

Sorry for the long post, but this is one way to do it if you want the right tools for the job. Should cost about $10, and you'll do the maintenance more often if its easy.

The right punch for getting them started is this one, or the equivalent. Even made in the USA!

7/32" hardened steel pin punch - Starrett Model #990-0184
Price: $5.40 ea
From Enco online: https://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=3009579&PMAKA=990-0184
A 3/16" punch is OK, but 7/32" is ideal.

Take a 1/4" drill or reamer and run it lightly into the ends of the holes, just to remove the indents that keep the rod from backing out on its own (never saw that happen). Squirt it down good with penetrating oil for a few days beforehand, if you can. Kroil is the best, but WD40 will probably work. By the way, a can of Kroil is a very good thing for jet outboard owners to have around. (https://www.kanolabs.com/)

Tap the punch just enough to get the rod moving a little, then tap it the other direction to distribute the P-oil. Use a metal hammer, not a soft one. You need the shock factor of a real manly hammer. Keep tapping the rod back and forth until it moves easily. Keep adding P-oil to all the slots as you go. You shouldn't have to hit it very hard, if you use a hardened punch and a metal hammer. If you use a soft piece of steel or screwdriver, etc., you'll just bend or mushroom the tip of the tool. If that happens, you might get the punch stuck too.

Once its loose enough to move, tap it as far as you can with the pin punch. Then take a piece of 3/16" drill rod an inch or so longer than the housing, and tap the rod the rest of the way out. You can get a piece of drill rod at any metals supply house for a few bucks. Pins are made to drive in and out. If you grab them with vise-grips, you'll probably nick or gouge them up, then they won't go in or out nice. 

If the rod is bent or buggered up, I'd replace it. They're supposed to be straight, not sprung. Grease it up good before you re-install it. After you re-install the rod, use a center punch or chisel to put new LIGHT indentations around the holes on both ends, to replace the ones you drilled out.


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## smackdaddy53 (Aug 25, 2014)

Jetboater-TB said:


> Sorry for the long post, but this is one way to do it if you want the right tools for the job. Should cost about $10, and you'll do the maintenance more often if its easy.
> 
> The right punch for getting them started is this one, or the equivalent. Even made in the USA!
> 
> ...


Damn, it is about time some one gave some insight on how to remove them. I ordered the punches and will see how it works. I already have several cans of Kroil. That stuff is magic, I have used it in the oilfield for years. 
Thanks man!


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## dhoganjr (Aug 25, 2014)

Guess I should have said my screw driver is a cheap phillips I picked up for about $2.00 with the head ground off a bit just for the pin. It drives them through except for about 4 ". Never had to drill one but I usually have them out within a couple months of being new.

Whatever works.


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## Darkside (Aug 28, 2014)

Take a new welding rod and know the white resin off it. Very strong and plenty long enough. I did locus repairs on OBJ's and this worked very well. I think I used a standard 6011 rod. Start with a 3-4" punch and when you are 1" or so started switch to the welding rod.


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## AllOutdoors (Aug 28, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=364769#p364769 said:


> Darkside » 12 minutes ago[/url]"]Take a new welding rod and know the white resin off it. Very strong and plenty long enough. I did locus repairs on OBJ's and this worked very well. I think I used a standard 6011 rod. Start with a 3-4" punch and when you are 1" or so started switch to the welding rod.



Better watch it Darkside! The spelling b team might show up to correct you! LOL. Thanks for the info! Even a redneck like me can figure it out. Your knowledge is greatly appreciated.....


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## Darkside (Aug 29, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=364771#p364771 said:


> AllOutdoors » Yesterday, 22:12[/url]"]
> 
> 
> [url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=364769#p364769 said:
> ...



locus=lots of

Thanks for catching my typo.

-Chris G


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## buckeyeBEN (Sep 11, 2014)

I'm trying to order new pins and grates for my 2004 merc 65jet. I haven't been able to get what I need because they are part of the foot assembly. 
Any suggestions?


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## RiverBottomOutdoors (Sep 11, 2014)

[url=https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?p=365983#p365983 said:


> buckeyeBEN » Today, 11:20 am[/url]"]I'm trying to order new pins and grates for my 2004 merc 65jet. I haven't been able to get what I need because they are part of the foot assembly.
> Any suggestions?



Dealer should be able to order them for you. I think I prided the grate bars a year ago for mine and they were $10 a piece.


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## dhoganjr (Sep 11, 2014)

[url=https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?p=365983&sid=b1d202b21f20b1015b9e28708eb084c2#p365983 said:


> buckeyeBEN » 11 Sep 2014, 10:20[/url]"]I'm trying to order new pins and grates for my 2004 merc 65jet. I haven't been able to get what I need because they are part of the foot assembly.
> Any suggestions?



Go to https://www.outboardjets.com website and look up your pump. Get the part numbers you need and either take them to your dealer or call Outboard Jets and order from them directly.


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## buckeyeBEN (Sep 11, 2014)

Thanks guys. 
I called and ordered 9 grates and the pins for about $55 delivered.


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## dhoganjr (Sep 11, 2014)

[url=https://forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?p=365993#p365993 said:


> buckeyeBEN » 11 Sep 2014, 15:19[/url]"]Thanks guys.
> I called and ordered 9 grates and the pins for about $55 delivered.



Good deal, was that from Outboard Jets or dealer?


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## buckeyeBEN (Sep 11, 2014)

Outboard jets.com


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## RiverBottomOutdoors (Sep 11, 2014)

Cheaper than my dealer quoted me. Good to know.


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