# Extend Tongue Forward or Bunks Back?



## Lost But Happy (Jul 11, 2022)

Hello All

I have a quandry...My boat is 14' long and my trailer is 14' long as well. As it currently sits, the transom hangs off the back about 2'. 

What is best practice in this situation?

1) Extend the tongue 2' (bolt on) and move the bow mount forward
or
2) Leave the tongue and bow mount alone and just extend the bunks rearward?
or
3) Dump the trailer and get a new one :lol: 

I am currently tearing apart the trailer and painting various items and I will be purchasing new tires/wheels, bunks etc and figured I would get this sorted first before I go and procure said wheels and bunks.

Thank you kindly! :mrgreen: 

A couple of pics for reference


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## MrGiggles (Jul 11, 2022)

Extend the tongue, the weight will be distributed better on the axle. Most of the weight on the boat is in the stern, the bow is light. The axle needs to be pretty far back to keep at least 10% of the total weight on the tongue.

It'll also make launching easier for you, won't have to back in as far or dunk your tow vehicle, and longer trailers are easier to back.


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## Lost But Happy (Jul 11, 2022)

MrGiggles said:


> Extend the tongue, the weight will be distributed better on the axle. Most of the weight on the boat is in the stern, the bow is light. The axle needs to be pretty far back to keep at least 10% of the total weight on the tongue.
> 
> It'll also make launching easier for you, won't have to back in as far or dunk your tow vehicle, and longer trailers are easier to back.



Makes sense. Thank you! 

I will shop for a tongue extension and post results here.


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## Lost But Happy (Jul 11, 2022)

This appears like it will work...

https://www.easternmarine.com/galvanized-trailer-tubing-pu3808

Thing is, It looks like it needs to be welded. Unfortunately, I do not have access to a welder or anyone who would I trust to weld it. #-o


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## eeshaw (Jul 11, 2022)

Take it to a local welding shop, they'll fix you up.


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## Lost But Happy (Jul 12, 2022)

eeshaw said:


> Take it to a local welding shop, they'll fix you up.



Ill check around and see if there are any reputable ones. 

No chance of just bolting the 2 pieces together?


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## eeshaw (Jul 12, 2022)

I wouldn't chance trying to bolt one to the other unless it was specifically designed for the application. The last thing you want to do is lose your boat while it's being towed.


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## Lost But Happy (Jul 12, 2022)

eeshaw said:


> I wouldn't chance trying to bolt one to the other unless it was specifically designed for the application. The last thing you want to do is lose your boat while it's being towed.



True. I did find a mobile welder guy near me. Going to give him a jingle and see what he will charge. Butt welds are a no-no, correct? Should have him do a 45* slice on each to weld them together?

One more question...I can get a 2' extension or a 4' extension. The 2' would shift everything forward exactly as much as what the transom is hanging off of the back. Would a 4' extension be too long and ungainly? 

Thanks! :mrgreen:


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## JL8Jeff (Jul 12, 2022)

You could get one of those bolt on swing away tongue hinges, they are designed to handle it. I put one on my old spring boat trailer. Just be prepared to do lots of drilling and having multiple bits and sizes available. You need to drill 16 holes to bolt it together.

https://www.amazon.com/Fulton-HDPB350101-Fold-Away-Bolt-Trailer/dp/B002IVALW6?th=1


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## Lost But Happy (Jul 12, 2022)

JL8Jeff said:


> You could get one of those bolt on swing away tongue hinges, they are designed to handle it. I put one on my old spring boat trailer. Just be prepared to do lots of drilling and having multiple bits and sizes available. You need to drill 16 holes to bolt it together.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Fulton-HDPB350101-Fold-Away-Bolt-Trailer/dp/B002IVALW6?th=1



Interesting. I do have lots of tools and bits and am not afraid to use them. lol 

Im going to ponder it. Thank you!


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## FuzzyGrub (Jul 12, 2022)

JL8Jeff said:


> You could get one of those bolt on swing away tongue hinges, they are designed to handle it. I put one on my old spring boat trailer. Just be prepared to do lots of drilling and having multiple bits and sizes available. You need to drill 16 holes to bolt it together.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Fulton-HDPB350101-Fold-Away-Bolt-Trailer/dp/B002IVALW6?th=1



Not having the welding capability myself, I would seriously consider this option, especilly with such a lite boat. 

I have also seen trailers that have a slide in tube and is pinned like the tow hitch is to the receiver.


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## Lost But Happy (Jul 12, 2022)

FuzzyGrub said:


> JL8Jeff said:
> 
> 
> > You could get one of those bolt on swing away tongue hinges, they are designed to handle it. I put one on my old spring boat trailer. Just be prepared to do lots of drilling and having multiple bits and sizes available. You need to drill 16 holes to bolt it together.
> ...



That is what I figgered. The boat itself can't weigh more than a couple of hundred pounds. Shoot, I pulled it off of the trailer by myself! lol

The slide tube is what I had in my mind to use, though I haven't found one yet. Would you happen to have a link? Thank you!


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## FuzzyGrub (Jul 12, 2022)

Lost But Happy said:


> The slide tube is what I had in my mind to use, though I haven't found one yet. Would you happen to have a link? Thank you!



I've seen them on production trailers and have not seen any retrofit type kits. As long as you can find tubing that will just slide over or in, should be good. If you don't need the flexibility for storage, just use two 1/2" diameter bolts. You probably would need a new coupler to fit the new tube, for this approach, though.


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## Lost But Happy (Jul 12, 2022)

FuzzyGrub said:


> Lost But Happy said:
> 
> 
> > The slide tube is what I had in my mind to use, though I haven't found one yet. Would you happen to have a link? Thank you!
> ...



Ah. No wonder I haven't found one. lol 

The extension I posted previously _would_ work for this as i would just slide it over the end of the trailer and drill holes where the current hitch holes are, but I am not understanding the coupler part. Do you mean the hitch?


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## JL8Jeff (Jul 12, 2022)

What size is your current trailer tongue?


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## Lost But Happy (Jul 12, 2022)

JL8Jeff said:


> What size is your current trailer tongue?



3" x 3"

Edit: 3x3, but it is somewhat tapered (more like somebody else crushed all around) so it actually measures out to be 2.75 x 2.75 and about 2-3" back from the front edge if that makes sense


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## JL8Jeff (Jul 12, 2022)

Lost But Happy said:


> JL8Jeff said:
> 
> 
> > What size is your current trailer tongue?
> ...



Have you looked around for a longer tongue? Maybe check your local craigslist or facebook marketplace.

https://ameratrailparts.com/products/3-x-3-x-3-16-galvanized-steel-trailer-tongue-available-in-60-72


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## Lost But Happy (Jul 12, 2022)

JL8Jeff said:


> Lost But Happy said:
> 
> 
> > JL8Jeff said:
> ...



Thank you. I have poked around for a new tongue, but I would need a 12' long piece to accomplish my goal. I found a 10', but that is the same length as the one I have now.


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## JL8Jeff (Jul 12, 2022)

Where are you located?

This place sells 3x3x1/8" thick tubing in up to 12' length. Shipping might be crazy but I didn't check.

https://www.metalsdepot.com/steel-products/galvanized-steel-products/galvanized-square-tube


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## FuzzyGrub (Jul 12, 2022)

The coupler/hitch is sized to the width of the tongue tubing. Going larger or smaller to slide over or inside of existing would require a different one.


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## Lost But Happy (Jul 12, 2022)

JL8Jeff said:


> Where are you located?
> 
> This place sells 3x3x1/8" thick tubing in up to 12' length. Shipping might be crazy but I didn't check.
> 
> https://www.metalsdepot.com/steel-products/galvanized-steel-products/galvanized-square-tube



Im outside of Chicago. I would imagine a 12' will be truck freight, but I'll check em out and see. Thank you Jeff.


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## Lost But Happy (Jul 12, 2022)

FuzzyGrub said:


> The coupler/hitch is sized to the width of the tongue tubing. Going larger or smaller to slide over or inside of existing would require a different one.



Gotcha. Thank you Fuzzy. 

The hitch I have now fits the current tongue, but it is apparent after looking closer that the previous owner crushed the hitch sides (and consequently the tongue) when he installed the hitch. Which in a way may work to my advantage in pounding the new tongue over the old one and getting a friction fit in addition to the bolts. 

I am considering a 4' extension instead of the 2' extension because with the 2' I probably will not have enough room to mount the swivel jack and spare tire. I need to measure this and see.

Thank you all of you kind Gentlemens for all your help and ideas! Please keep em coming! :mrgreen:


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## Lost But Happy (Jul 12, 2022)

I feel a bit foolish for admitting this...but I just figured out that my trailer is a Shoreliner, not a Shorelandr like i thought. #-o I just looked at the title and sure as s***, it's a Shoreliner. 

Glad i didn't spend a bunch of $$$$ on Shorelandr parts I couldn't use. :shock:


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## MrGiggles (Jul 13, 2022)

Surely you have a metal supply/recycler near you. There's no reason why you couldn't walk out with a chunk of square tubing for less than $20.

Either go slightly over/under size so the new tongue slips in/over the old one, drill and cross bolt. Two 3/8" bolts with big washers and nylocks will hold it just fine. 

You could either reuse the coupler/hitch or just replace it. They aren't that expensive and they do wear out.

Once you do this, if it's wired with the trailer frame as ground, it would be wise to run a new ground wire since the connection between the tongue sections will likely be unreliable.


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## Lost But Happy (Jul 13, 2022)

MrGiggles said:


> Surely you have a metal supply/recycler near you. There's no reason why you couldn't walk out with a chunk of square tubing for less than $20.
> 
> Either go slightly over/under size so the new tongue slips in/over the old one, drill and cross bolt. Two 3/8" bolts with big washers and nylocks will hold it just fine.
> 
> ...



Will do Mr Giggles. Re-wiring the entire trailer was in the cards already. For $20, ill just buy a new hitch. Sucks that the current one has MADE IN THE USA stamped on it and we all know where the new one will be from. :x


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## JL8Jeff (Jul 14, 2022)

You should go to craigslist and facebook marketplace for your location and search on "galvanized square tubing" and you might find something local in a 12' length you can pick up.


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## Lost But Happy (Jul 14, 2022)

Ill check out craigslist and see (I am not on facebook). Thanks Jeff


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## Lost But Happy (Jul 17, 2022)

Well, striking out with the tubing-locally and nationally. Everything commonly available in galvanized is 3" x 3" .125 thickness which puts the ID at 2.875-not guna work.

As far as I have figured, I need a 3.25 x 3.25 x .188 wall thickness tube. This tube would be 3.062 ID. 

The current tongue is 3.055 OD, 1' back from end of tongue (from 0-5" back the PO crushed the tongue to 2.75"). 

With this 3.25 tube, I would have juuuuust enough clearance to pound a 4' piece back a foot and be able to drill and bolt. 

I may be resigned to buying the swing away mechanism and call it a day. $125 for it is a good chunk of cash and that's on top of the $125 for the tube picked up locally. Ugh.


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## Kismet (Jul 17, 2022)

This is going to sound kinda of dumb, but then, I am kinda dumb, so...it figures. 

But would it be feasible to weld straps on top, bottom, and both sides instead of trying to find the correct inside dimensions? Any good welder would find that simple to do, and some could even make it look pretty.

Best wishes. [-o<


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## LDUBS (Jul 18, 2022)

IDK, I think a lot of my ideas are pretty off track. But that never stopped me before. Instead of adding to the existing tongue how about replacing it entirely with the right length of 3x3 stock. Might be cost competitive.


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## Lost But Happy (Jul 18, 2022)

Kismet said:


> This is going to sound kinda of dumb, but then, I am kinda dumb, so...it figures.
> 
> But would it be feasible to weld straps on top, bottom, and both sides instead of trying to find the correct inside dimensions? Any good welder would find that simple to do, and some could even make it look pretty.
> 
> Best wishes. [-o<



Thank you for the best wishes! 

If I were to weld it, I would have him slice each one lengthwise at a 45* angle and weld it that way. Not sure on the cost, but I reckon it wouldn't be cheap.


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## Lost But Happy (Jul 18, 2022)

LDUBS said:


> IDK, I think a lot of my ideas are pretty off track. But that never stopped me before. Instead of adding to the existing tongue how about replacing it entirely with the right length of 3x3 stock. Might be cost competitive.



I did look into that and it was quite cost-prohibitive. IIRC, for a 12' piece it was over a grand without shipping.


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## Lost But Happy (Jul 18, 2022)

I guess I should call the on-site welder and see what he will actually charge. Not to mention if he will bother with galvanized.


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## JL8Jeff (Jul 18, 2022)

Can you see this ad on FB? 3-1/2 x 3-1/2 x 12' long for $100 in Crown Point Ind. If not, see if you can get a friend to search FB marketplace for you. There are some deals out there,

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/674388863861834/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A417c447c-c5f5-4ccf-b3ca-78a8a1a61f82

Here's another ad for 3x3 x 18' that can be cut to length in Lombard Ill for $150.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/373350908200009/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A417c447c-c5f5-4ccf-b3ca-78a8a1a61f82


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## Lost But Happy (Jul 18, 2022)

JL8Jeff said:


> Can you see this ad on FB? 3-1/2 x 3-1/2 x 12' long for $100 in Crown Point Ind. If not, see if you can get a friend to search FB marketplace for you. There are some deals out there,
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/674388863861834/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A417c447c-c5f5-4ccf-b3ca-78a8a1a61f82
> 
> ...



Thank you Jeff! 

I can see the ads. The one in Lombard is nearby. Ill dig around and see where that shop is and give em a call. It doesn't appear to be galvanized though. Could be why it's so cheap.


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## LDUBS (Jul 20, 2022)

Lost But Happy said:


> LDUBS said:
> 
> 
> > IDK, I think a lot of my ideas are pretty off track. But that never stopped me before. Instead of adding to the existing tongue how about replacing it entirely with the right length of 3x3 stock. Might be cost competitive.
> ...




Holy Moley. Forget that.


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## airshot (Jul 25, 2022)

Your tongue extension can either go over or inside your existing tongue, would make no difference. The coupler is the piece that slips over the ball, the hitch is what the ball is attached to on your tow vehicle. Never had anyone complain about the tongue being to long ( other than storing issues) but many folks complain the tongue is to short. Just because you add a 4 ' extension doesnt mean the bow has to be pulled that far forward on the trailer. I actually have a 12" extension for my hitch that extends the ball out and away from my tow vehicle another 12" to make launching at shallow ramps easier.


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## sonny.barile (Jul 26, 2022)

Keep in mind that any extension on the hitch ball side or reduces towing capacity and tongue allowance of the vehicle.Any beam side addition reduces the towing capacity of the trailer. However I do not believe you are dealing with anything that’s topping the scales…….

Have you seen this. It bolts on and you can add a small length for what you need. No welding required…..

https://www.etrailer.com/Folding-Trailer-Tongue/Fulton/FHDPB330301.html


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## Lost But Happy (Jul 26, 2022)

airshot said:


> Your tongue extension can either go over or inside your existing tongue, would make no difference. The coupler is the piece that slips over the ball, the hitch is what the ball is attached to on your tow vehicle. Never had anyone complain about the tongue being to long ( other than storing issues) but many folks complain the tongue is to short. Just because you add a 4 ' extension doesnt mean the bow has to be pulled that far forward on the trailer. I actually have a 12" extension for my hitch that extends the ball out and away from my tow vehicle another 12" to make launching at shallow ramps easier.



The issue I have been having is I cannot find a tongue extension that would slip over or in. Everything I have found is 3 x 3 x .120. Nothing bigger or smaller.


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## Lost But Happy (Jul 26, 2022)

sonny.barile said:


> Keep in mind that any extension on the hitch ball side or reduces towing capacity and tongue allowance of the vehicle.Any beam side addition reduces the towing capacity of the trailer. However I do not believe you are dealing with anything that’s topping the scales…….
> 
> Have you seen this. It bolts on and you can add a small length for what you need. No welding required…..
> 
> https://www.etrailer.com/Folding-Trailer-Tongue/Fulton/FHDPB330301.html



I have seen the folding tongue. This is probably what I will go with. I purchased a 4' piece of 3 x 3 x .120 galvanized square tubing already and I will be calling a mobile welder for a price on welding the two pieces together. Depending on his price, I may just go with the folding tongue piece.


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## airshot (Jul 26, 2022)

sonny.barile said:


> Keep in mind that any extension on the hitch ball side or reduces towing capacity and tongue allowance of the vehicle.Any beam side addition reduces the towing capacity of the trailer. However I do not believe you are dealing with anything that’s topping the scales…….
> 
> Have you seen this. It bolts on and you can add a small length for what you need. No welding required…..
> 
> https://www.etrailer.com/Folding-Trailer-Tongue/Fulton/FHDPB330301.html



You are correct, already took that into consideration...the extender is rated for 5k and my boat trailer combo is less than 2k. My Jeep is rated for 4400 lbs with its tow pkg. We seem to have a lot of shallow ramps in my area so that extra 12" does help. I have also thought about adding an extra 2 ft onto the tongue just because of the shallow ramps..


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## Lost But Happy (Aug 21, 2022)

Well Gents, I took the dive and hired a mobile welder. He welded the tongue extension with 2x 2' long pieces of 1/4" angle iron. This sucka aint goin anywhere. lol






My question to the forum is, are there any problems if the transom of the boat is 6" in from edge of the back of trailer? 

Issue I have now is that the bow mount is not wide enough to go around the angle iron. If I attach the bow mount just forward of the angle, it will put the transom 6" forward of the edge of the trailer. I have new bunks I will be installing of which I can line up wherever I need to. Thank you!


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## LDUBS (Aug 22, 2022)

To me the overriding priority is to have at least 10% - 15% of the total boat/trailer weight on the tongue. Either put the bow mount where it needs to be to do that or move the axle. If you are moving things forward, you may be OK -- fingers crossed.

I can't think of a serious problem with the rear trailer frame extended back beyond the transom so long as the outboard doesn't hit it. Seems it would be deep enough during launch and retrieval to not get in the way. You might forget and bang your shins, but that will only happen a couple of times. Lol.


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## Lost But Happy (Aug 22, 2022)

LDUBS said:


> To me the overriding priority is to have at least 10% - 15% of the total boat/trailer weight on the tongue. Either put the bow mount where it needs to be to do that or move the axle. If you are moving things forward, you may be OK -- fingers crossed.
> 
> I can't think of a serious problem with the rear trailer frame extended back beyond the transom so long as the outboard doesn't hit it. Seems it would be deep enough during launch and retrieval to not get in the way. You might forget and bang your shins, but that will only happen a couple of times. Lol.



LOL oh it'll happen! Even after 25 years of messing with Chrysler products, I always forget about the stupid hood latch and smack my head on it. :lol: 

This monster...




I reckon the 2 pieces of angle iron are plenty heavy enough to have weight on the tongue, not to mention the bow of the boat would be about 2.5' from the hitch. At this point, she's electric only, so not too much worry bout the outboard. Though it may bite me in the butt in the future if I add a gas motor. 

How far rearward of the trailer frame do the bunks have to be for a proper launch/retrieval? I did purchase a set of new 6' Ultimate bunk boards that will be installed once I figure this all out. 

Thank you kindly! :LOL2:


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## JL8Jeff (Aug 22, 2022)

There are different styles of bow mounts and some reach farther back. Here's my trailer for comparison, yours look pretty short compared to the one on my trailer.


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## Lost But Happy (Aug 22, 2022)

Yes. Mine does not have an extension like yours. Basically it is the the winch bolted to the post and then the winch clips to bow.


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## LDUBS (Aug 22, 2022)

Lost But Happy said:


> How far rearward of the trailer frame do the bunks have to be for a proper launch/retrieval? I did purchase a set of new 6' Ultimate bunk boards that will be installed once I figure this all out.
> 
> Thank you kindly! :LOL2:




It is common for the transom to extend beyond the rear trailer frame. In that case the bunks need to be extended so that the transom is fully supported. Because you don't have that issue, I don't think they need to extend back at all. I can't think of an advantage to extending them back.


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## Lost But Happy (Aug 22, 2022)

LDUBS said:


> Lost But Happy said:
> 
> 
> > How far rearward of the trailer frame do the bunks have to be for a proper launch/retrieval? I did purchase a set of new 6' Ultimate bunk boards that will be installed once I figure this all out.
> ...



I was thinking that if the bunks didn't stick out (even a little) it would be troublesome to launch/put back on trailer. Though the trailer would be mostly in the water anyways, so you're probably right.


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## LDUBS (Aug 23, 2022)

Lost But Happy said:


> LDUBS said:
> 
> 
> > Lost But Happy said:
> ...




Yeah, I'm trying to visualize what might work best. Can't really put my finger on it one way or the other. Just like I don't see a problem with them not extended, I can't really see a problem if they extend out a little. You could always mount them sticking out a little like you say. If it works, then there is much happiness! If you do encounter some problem, you can always move them forward.


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## Lost But Happy (Aug 23, 2022)

Much happiness indeed! lol 

I think Im going to mock everything up before I start making holes etc, take a few pics and post em here. Maybe a visual reference will spark some thoughts. 8)


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## JL8Jeff (Aug 23, 2022)

Did you search Facebook marketplace and craigslist in your area for "winch mount" or "winch post" to see if anything pops up? I saw several in my area but I do get a lot of boat related stuff popping up from the jersey shore area.


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## Lost But Happy (Aug 23, 2022)

JL8Jeff said:


> Did you search Facebook marketplace and craigslist in your area for "winch mount" or "winch post" to see if anything pops up? I saw several in my area but I do get a lot of boat related stuff popping up from the jersey shore area.



I have not, honestly. I am not on facebook and craigslist searches for my area suck. lol 

My winch post is solid and I would like to try and reuse it.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Aug 23, 2022)

Lost But Happy said:


> JL8Jeff said:
> 
> 
> > Did you search Facebook marketplace and craigslist in your area for "winch mount" or "winch post" to see if anything pops up? I saw several in my area but I do get a lot of boat related stuff popping up from the jersey shore area.
> ...


You need a longer arm on the winch post. That way the bow stop is moved farther out.


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## Lost But Happy (Aug 24, 2022)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> Lost But Happy said:
> 
> 
> > JL8Jeff said:
> ...


So do you think it would be worth the cost and trouble getting the bow stop and winch extension just to gain 6"?


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## Lost But Happy (Aug 24, 2022)

delete


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## LDUBS (Aug 24, 2022)

OK, this is blue sky seat-of-the-pants stuff on my part. 

If I understand the issue, adding the 1/4" angle prevents you from putting the winch post where you want it. 

Seems it would be a fairly straightforward to modify the base of the post to fit. For example, cut the wings off, weld a flat plate on the bottom, and then use u-bolts to hold it on. If you want to avoid welding, seems a flange or something could be added to either side for u-bolts.


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## Lost But Happy (Aug 24, 2022)

LDUBS said:


> OK, this is blue sky seat-of-the-pants stuff on my part.
> 
> If I understand the issue, adding the 1/4" angle prevents you from putting the winch post where you want it.



Correct. But If I put the post just forward of the angle iron, the transom will be 6" forward from the edge of the rear of the trailer. 

Would the transom being 6" forward of the edge of the trailer be a problem? That was my original question. 

I should be able to mock everything up today and take pictures. I know they are worth 1000 words. lol


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Aug 24, 2022)

At this point you need to weigh your boat and trailer with fuel and gear. 
That will tell you where the boat needs to be on the trailer. You want about 10% of the weight on the tongue.


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## LDUBS (Aug 24, 2022)

If I'm visualizing this correctly, it seems by moving the boat forward along with the tongue extension you would be adding tongue weight. So, for example, if it was originally 10% you would likely be more than that now. Up to 15% seems to be generally recognized as the upper limit. 

Weighing the boat is a great idea. Mount the post forward like you say. Put the boat on the trailer with the motor and normal gear. Take it to the scales. Who knows, you may within the 10% to 15% tongue weight target.


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## JL8Jeff (Aug 25, 2022)

Your winch post looks like it was already cut/customized by somebody and that extra cut in it could compromise the strength. It doesn't look like your boat is all that heavy so it probably isn't an issue but that post does not look like the original for the trailer to begin with. I'm not sure I would want to pull the boat that far forward since it's already a small trailer. With a more angled post you might be able to mount it behind the extension and keep the boat back farther. With your winch post you would probably need to have some extensions welded on each side to be able to fit around your wider tongue extension to keep the boat in the right place on the trailer.

I circled the spot on your post that looks cut and could be starting to crack along it.


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## Lost But Happy (Aug 25, 2022)

JL8Jeff said:


> Your winch post looks like it was already cut/customized by somebody and that extra cut in it could compromise the strength. It doesn't look like your boat is all that heavy so it probably isn't an issue but that post does not look like the original for the trailer to begin with. I'm not sure I would want to pull the boat that far forward since it's already a small trailer. With a more angled post you might be able to mount it behind the extension and keep the boat back farther. With your winch post you would probably need to have some extensions welded on each side to be able to fit around your wider tongue extension to keep the boat in the right place on the trailer.
> 
> I circled the spot on your post that looks cut and could be starting to crack along it.



The spot you circled is an optical illusion. I marked (with a blue sharpie) the spot where I would have had to cut the post for it to stretch around the angle iron. Thought better of cutting it so here we are. lol

The boat doesn't weigh much at all. I didn't have a chance to mock it up yesterday and today isn't looking much better. Hopefully tomorrow Ill be able to do it.


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## Lost But Happy (Sep 2, 2022)

Finally got to work on the boat yesterday. Yeah, not good. Obviously Im going to have to move it back.





So I moved it back to where I think it should be. (please let me know if there is not enough overhang)





I now need to make up the difference on the bow side. About 22" total from winch post to where the bumper lands.





Ive been shopping around for a longer bow bumper + winch mount but the longest I found was 13". Im really trying not to modify or even buy a new winch post. Any ideas? Thank you!


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## LDUBS (Sep 3, 2022)

I have a couple thoughts. Cut the bunks off about 1" past the transom. Add a safety chain from below the winch to the bow eye. That way you aren't relying only on that little spring in the winch lever to keep the bow secured. I can't offer any advice on how to make your existing winch post work wihout doing modifications.


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## JL8Jeff (Sep 3, 2022)

Do you think the boat is still a little too far forward? I think I would want more of the stern back past the wheels/axle. If you push it back a little more, you might be able to mount your winch post on the other side of the extension area. The other option might be to swap the tongue around completely so the extension area is under the bunks. You would need to redrill the holes where it bolts together and for the coupler, but that might be the easiest solution to give you flexibility with the winch post location. I've cut several trailers shorter and redrilled holes for the coupler so it's not hard.


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## sonny.barile (Sep 4, 2022)

Lost But Happy said:


> LDUBS said:
> 
> 
> > OK, this is blue sky seat-of-the-pants stuff on my part.
> ...



If the bunks go out past the transom you will have issues in the future with transom mounted transducers. You mentioned wanting a Helix 7 in my thread……

You mentioned not wanting to replace your winch……you may be able to find a post that fits your winch, although doesn’t allow for u-bolts because of the wider additional material, can be bolted down thru the tongue. Something like this…….


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## Lost But Happy (Sep 4, 2022)

I did find this which appears like it will work...




Though $265 is a bit steep.


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## Lost But Happy (Sep 4, 2022)

sonny.barile said:


> If the bunks go out past the transom you will have issues in the future with transom mounted transducers. You mentioned wanting a Helix 7 in my thread……
> 
> You mentioned not wanting to replace your winch……you may be able to find a post that fits your winch, although doesn’t allow for u-bolts because of the wider additional material, can be bolted down thru the tongue. Something like this…….
> 
> ...



It's the winch post would like to reuse. In lieu of that, I would probably have to get a post like you attached in your response.

I see your point about the transom mounted transducer, but from everything I have read, It is better to have the bunks out past the transom a bit to support said transom.


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## LDUBS (Sep 4, 2022)

JL8Jeff said:


> Do you think the boat is still a little too far forward? I think I would want more of the stern back past the wheels/axle. If you push it back a little more, you might be able to mount your winch post on the other side of the extension area. The other option might be to swap the tongue around completely so the extension area is under the bunks. You would need to redrill the holes where it bolts together and for the coupler, but that might be the easiest solution to give you flexibility with the winch post location. I've cut several trailers shorter and redrilled holes for the coupler so it's not hard.



_"The other option might be to swap the tongue around completely so the extension area is under the bunks."_

If this is practical it really resolves all the issues. Great idea JL8Jeff!.


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## Lost But Happy (Sep 4, 2022)

LDUBS said:


> JL8Jeff said:
> 
> 
> > Do you think the boat is still a little too far forward? I think I would want more of the stern back past the wheels/axle. If you push it back a little more, you might be able to mount your winch post on the other side of the extension area. The other option might be to swap the tongue around completely so the extension area is under the bunks. You would need to redrill the holes where it bolts together and for the coupler, but that might be the easiest solution to give you flexibility with the winch post location. I've cut several trailers shorter and redrilled holes for the coupler so it's not hard.
> ...



To be honest with y'all, Im not envisioning how this would look.


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## JL8Jeff (Sep 5, 2022)

I circled where your tongue bolts to the rest of the trailer frame. If you were to unbolt it, unbolt your coupler from the other end and then pull it out and put the coupler end where the frame is (swing it around 180 degrees), would that new extension (wider area) be far enough away from the frame mounts to not get in the way? You could drill new holes and bolt the extension end to the frame and then new holes for the coupler where the frame end used to be. It looks like your extension area would be really close to the top circle so you would definitely want to measure it first before doing anything. If this would work, you would need to pull your wiring through so tie some string to the wiring so you have string going through when you swap it around and then tie the wiring back to the string and pull it back through.


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## Lost But Happy (Sep 5, 2022)

JL8Jeff said:


> I circled where your tongue bolts to the rest of the trailer frame. If you were to unbolt it, unbolt your coupler from the other end and then pull it out and put the coupler end where the frame is (swing it around 180 degrees), would that new extension (wider area) be far enough away from the frame mounts to not get in the way? You could drill new holes and bolt the extension end to the frame and then new holes for the coupler where the frame end used to be. It looks like your extension area would be really close to the top circle so you would definitely want to measure it first before doing anything. If this would work, you would need to pull your wiring through so tie some string to the wiring so you have string going through when you swap it around and then tie the wiring back to the string and pull it back through.



DUH! lol 

Now I see what you mean!! That could very well work!! I am definitely going measure and noodle on this one! Thank you!!!


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## sonny.barile (Sep 5, 2022)

Brilliant! :idea:


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## Lost But Happy (Sep 12, 2022)

Finally get er flipped around. Looks like it will work!!! A YUGE thank you to JL8Jeff!!!










I lined it up where the center of the tongue is in the center of the hole. I plan on clamping the front of the trailer and tongue and drill all the holes. Anything I should be looking for? I don't want to drill the holes wrong and the trailer not track straight.

Also, the extension added quite a bit of weight to the tongue, so I was thinking of using bigger sized bolts for the 3 places where the tongue is bolted to the trailer. Thoughts? Grade 8 and ny-lock nuts?

Thank you!


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## sonny.barile (Sep 13, 2022)

Good ending to this story…………  

I wouldn’t go with a larger diameter bolt where the center beam terminates at the cross bar. Yes the bolt itself will be stronger, but the web that remains (material around the hole) will be lesser. You leave too narrow a web from the hole to the edge of that channel and it will give……. 

Where the two bent pieces come together on the center beam would be a good candidate for bigger bolts.


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## LDUBS (Sep 13, 2022)

I sense much happiness in the force!


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## Lost But Happy (Sep 13, 2022)

sonny.barile said:


> Good ending to this story…………
> 
> I wouldn’t go with a larger diameter bolt where the center beam terminates at the cross bar. Yes the bolt itself will be stronger, but the web that remains (material around the hole) will be lesser. You leave too narrow a web from the hole to the edge of that channel and it will give…….
> 
> Where the two bent pieces come together on the center beam would be a good candidate for bigger bolts.



Sounds good. Thank you Sonny! 

Grade 8 you think? With nylon lock washers?


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## Lost But Happy (Sep 13, 2022)

LDUBS said:


> I sense much happiness in the force!



Indeed!!! :LOL2:


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Sep 13, 2022)

I would use grade 5 or 8 of the existing size and use nylocks nuts.


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## Lost But Happy (Sep 14, 2022)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> I would use grade 5 or 8 of the existing size and use nylocks nuts.



The existing ones do not have any markings on them. Would that make them grade 5? 

I am a big fan of nylocks and a drop of blue loctite.

Only reason I am thinking of upgrading the bolt size is the extension I had installed added quite a bit of weight to the tongue. I figured changing it to grade 8 would be good practice.


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## LDUBS (Sep 14, 2022)

For your application I would also think either grade 5 or 8 would be fine. Grade 5 should have 3 lines on the bolt head. Grade 8 has 6 lines. Grade 8 is harder. Used in auto suspensions from what I read. Won't hurt anything using them. I also like using nyloks.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Sep 14, 2022)

Lost But Happy said:


> lckstckn2smknbrls said:
> 
> 
> > I would use grade 5 or 8 of the existing size and use nylocks nuts.
> ...



Bolt heads with no markings should be grade 2.


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## Lost But Happy (Sep 14, 2022)

Wound up getting all grade 8's with ny-lock nuts. 

Upped the 2 tongue bolts to 7/16, but kept the rear one at 3/8.


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## JL8Jeff (Sep 16, 2022)

That's good you were able to flip the tongue around. At least that way you can put the winch post wherever you want. I unbolt my coupler to be able to squeeze my boat/trailer in the garage at an angle so my nylock nuts are shot. I only have a 10 minute drive to the ramp but I only tow early in the season and at the end when the dock is taken apart.


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## Lost But Happy (Sep 16, 2022)

JL8Jeff said:


> That's good you were able to flip the tongue around. At least that way you can put the winch post wherever you want. I unbolt my coupler to be able to squeeze my boat/trailer in the garage at an angle so my nylock nuts are shot. I only have a 10 minute drive to the ramp but I only tow early in the season and at the end when the dock is taken apart.



Good thing nylocks are cheap. lol 

Thanks again for the idea of flipping the tongue around, Jeff. It took a helluva weight off my mind!! :LOL2:

-Mario


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## Lost But Happy (Oct 6, 2022)

Took a little break and headed up to the boundary waters for our yearly fishing trip...










The total haul...we figure almost 10 lbs worth of walleyes


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## Lost But Happy (Oct 27, 2022)

A question for the brain trust...now that I have extended the trailer 4' and have added a fair bit of weight to it, should I consider switching the 1-7/8" ball I have now for a 2 or 2.5" ball? I have all 3 in truck, so that is not a consideration and I need to buy a new tongue hitch as the old one is rusty. Or does it really matter?


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## JL8Jeff (Oct 28, 2022)

The 1-7/8" ball is more than strong enough for that small of a combination. My trailer has it and my boat is a 1652 with a 60/45 jet on it.


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## Lost But Happy (Oct 28, 2022)

Thank you Jeff. 
-Mar


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## LDUBS (Oct 28, 2022)

I agree with JL8Jeff that the 1 7/8 is sufficient. Because 2" is probably the most common size in use and because you will be changing the coupler anyway, I would go with 2".


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## eeshaw (Oct 29, 2022)

I agree that 2 inch is probably the most common, that's what most of my stuff uses. The reason I have anything with a 1 7/8" ball is because that's what it came with and the coupler is welded to the trailer.


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## Lost But Happy (Oct 29, 2022)

LDUBS said:


> I agree with JL8Jeff that the 1 7/8 is sufficient. Because 2" is probably the most common size in use and because you will be changing the coupler anyway, I would go with 2".



That was my thought. I am re-habbing this trailer with the most commonly used and available parts so it will work in a variety of situations. Thank you @LDUBS


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## Tinny Fleet (Oct 30, 2022)

Probably not a factor in your case but one factor to consider with the 1 7/8" balls is that on many of the older ones the stem - the part with the screw threads - is a lot thinner and less robust than on the newer ones. The receiver part may (probably WILL) have a larger hole in it to accommodate all sizes of stems. Too small of a stem in a large hole might make it subject to shear in an extreme situation (i.e. slamming of the brakes on a well loaded trailer). There is enough of a difference between the stems that that I would want to inspect and at least know what I am dealing with and make adjustments as needed.


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## Lost But Happy (Oct 30, 2022)

Thank you for the tip, Tinny. The receiver part I have is a newer Reese one that was made for the 1-7/8" ball.


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## Lost But Happy (Nov 6, 2022)

New Dutton-Lainson 2" ball hitch arrived and trailer holes are drilled. Still need to paint the trailer, so not going to bolt it in quite yet. 




Next item to tackle are the bunks. I purchased new bunks and am ready to fit them. I have the transom more or less where I think it should be. I will be going into some sketchy and shallow ramps and want to line it up where I won't have any problems. I will have the customary 1.5" bunk overhang past the transom.

What do you gents think? Should I move it fore or aft any? Will a gas motor in the future be a consideration for placement of the bunks now?

Old bunks in place now to use as template. I know I am going to need to raise them an inch or two to clear the new fenders.







Thank you!!!


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## Lost But Happy (Nov 8, 2022)




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## FuzzyGrub (Nov 8, 2022)

As far as overhang for transom support, 1/4"-1/2" is all that is needed. Long doesn't hurt, unless you are mounting a transducer there. That won't change with motor. What will change, is tongue weight. On these light tinnys, too little is usually the problem, and get sway. Yours looks like that would not be an issue, being close to the trailer axle. You can also just load the front of the boat with the gas tank and gear, to add some. Too much can be a problem, as well, but depends more on your tow vehicle suspension.. Offhand, I don't remember what the "rule of thumb" is for tongue weight. 

It maybe just the picture, but it looks like the strake is runing up the edge of the bunk. If even on both sides, should move them in a little, for you don't create a "point load"..


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## Lost But Happy (Nov 8, 2022)

Thank you Fuzzy.

I wanted to make sure the transom overhang past the trailer right now is enough. Yes, I am mounting a transducer, eventually, hoping I can put out towards the edge. I figure 1"-1.5" of bunks past the transom. My biggest worry is drilling the holes in the brand spanking, new {composite} bunks and me screwing it up and having to drill them again. lol

IIRC, rule of thumb is 10-15% tongue weight. The tongue has plenty of heft to it. Between the 2 steel plates we welded on (2' long, 1/4" thick each) to extend the tongue and then the 4' tongue extension itself, I reckon Im good. I am towing it with a Ram 1500 with air suspension, so I can adjust that if there is any issues.

At the point I took that picture I didn't have the boat quite centered yet on the bunks. Once i shifted it over a titty bit, the bunks sit perfectly equidistant in the middle set of strakes.


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## LDUBS (Nov 15, 2022)

Lost But Happy said:


> IIRC, rule of thumb is 10-15% tongue weight. The tongue has plenty of heft to it. Between the 2 steel plates we welded on (2' long, 1/4" thick each) to extend the tongue and then the 4' tongue extension itself, I reckon Im good. I am towing it with a Ram 1500 with air suspension, so I can adjust that if there is any issues.



10% to 15% is the usual guideline. Too little weight on the tongue is very dangerous because the trailer will be prone to fishtailing. Too much weight on the tongue can cause payload/control issues, though I would not be as worried with your RAM's payload. Keep in mind those air shocks might help the attitude, but they don't increase payload. Though again, with that light boat & trailer, you won't have that issue.


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## ShawnN1776 (Nov 23, 2022)

Lost But Happy said:


> This appears like it will work...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Were you able to extend the tongue? I added about 3'-4' to mine. Just replaced the 1/16" 3x3 to a 1/8" or 3/16" 3x3. I welded mine in. Sold 100% with end caps and wire holes.


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## Lost But Happy (Nov 23, 2022)

ShawnN1776 said:


> Were you able to extend the tongue? I added about 3'-4' to mine. Just replaced the 1/16" 3x3 to a 1/8" or 3/16" 3x3. I welded mine in. Sold 100% with end caps and wire holes.


I did.






Wound up turning the tongue around so the 2 angle irons are back by the wheels


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## MrGiggles (Nov 25, 2022)

I'd say your bunk placement is pretty good. Further apart doesn't hurt as it helps keep the boat from rocking, but you are limited there by the width of the trailer.

Before you paint, make sure you've got some kind of eyelet set up for your rear straps.

I would also suggest adding a couple keel rollers. They don't need to (and shouldn't) support the boat, but when you're loading on a steep ramp they will keep the bow from slamming into the trailer, and keep everything centered. I think one tapered roller about halfway up, and one at the very back would be fine.

Some side bunks wouldn't hurt as well, a lot of guys like the tall guide poles, but I've found a couple of short 2x4 bunks to be sufficient. Just need to be careful and not back in too far so that the boat can float over the top of them. Keeping that boat floating over the trailer in even a slight crosswind or current is not going to be easy.

As long as the bunks are far enough apart to not hit an outboard (and yours look to be fine) you're good.

It's the little things like this that make all difference in how easy it is to load/unload. A poorly setup trailer can be a nightmare. 

Lastly, I think every boat should have a safety chain for the winch. So while you've got the drill bits out...


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## LDUBS (Nov 25, 2022)

MrGiggles said:


> I'd say your bunk placement is pretty good. Further apart doesn't hurt as it helps keep the boat from rocking, but you are limited there by the width of the trailer.
> 
> Before you paint, make sure you've got some kind of eyelet set up for your rear straps.
> 
> ...



I think every point made here is well worth paying attention to. Great advice.


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## Lost But Happy (Nov 29, 2022)

MrGiggles said:


> I'd say your bunk placement is pretty good. Further apart doesn't hurt as it helps keep the boat from rocking, but you are limited there by the width of the trailer.
> 
> Before you paint, make sure you've got some kind of eyelet set up for your rear straps.
> 
> ...


Excellent post!

Your line about the little things making all the difference is exactly why I am doing my due diligence now so I won't have problems in the future!

There are already 2 holes in the rear of the trailer for the eyelets and I do have a safety chain for the winch. I have a "v" keel roller all set up and ready to bolt on once I can paint the trailer. I also have a stern roller as well.

Thank you for all your suggestions!!


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## Lost But Happy (Nov 29, 2022)

LDUBS said:


> I think every point made here is well worth paying attention to. Great advice.


Indeed!


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## LDUBS (Nov 30, 2022)

Lost But Happy said:


> Excellent post!
> 
> Your line about the little things making all the difference is exactly why I am doing my due diligence now so I won't have problems in the future!
> 
> ...



I thought I had my trailer dialed in pretty good until I was trying to load the boat today. We continue with the drought. Lake is now down to that dreaded place where the ramp ends before the trailer can be backed in far enough. Concrete ends and drops off to some kind of large aggregate. Trailer sits lower on one side by so one side bunk is underwater and the other is about where it needs to be. Pretty hard to get the boat loaded. Fortunately I had some help. Not sure what I would have done if I was buy myself. What a mess. We need some rain. 

OK, enough of my whining and back to the main programming.


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## Lost But Happy (Dec 3, 2022)

LDUBS said:


> I thought I had my trailer dialed in pretty good until I was trying to load the boat today. We continue with the drought. Lake is now down to that dreaded place where the ramp ends before the trailer can be backed in far enough. Concrete ends and drops off to some kind of large aggregate. Trailer sits lower on one side by so one side bunk is underwater and the other is about where it needs to be. Pretty hard to get the boat loaded. Fortunately I had some help. Not sure what I would have done if I was buy myself. What a mess. We need some rain.
> 
> OK, enough of my whining and back to the main programming.


Oh man that sucks. Yes, rain is needed everywhere!! We are not that bad here in the Midwest, but I know water levels have dropped a bit as well.


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## airshot (Dec 4, 2022)

Lost But Happy said:


> Oh man that sucks. Yes, rain is needed everywhere!! We are not that bad here in the Midwest, but I know water levels have dropped a bit as well.


A few years back, when everything was flooding it was blamed on "climate change" , now that it is dry, also climate change!! Next thing you know, ED issues will be due to climate change !!


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## MrGiggles (Dec 4, 2022)

airshot said:


> A few years back, when everything was flooding it was blamed on "climate change" , now that it is dry, also climate change!! Next thing you know, ED issues will be due to climate change !!



The whole premise behind climate change is that it makes weather more severe on both ends of the spectrum, not one or the other.

No matter which side of the argument you stand on, I think it's important to understand the counterargument from the other side.

You can't really deny climate change, the causes of which seem to be what spark the debate.


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## LDUBS (Dec 4, 2022)

MrGiggles said:


> The whole premise behind climate change is that it makes weather more severe on both ends of the spectrum, not one or the other.
> 
> No matter which side of the argument you stand on, I think it's important to understand the counterargument from the other side.
> 
> You can't really deny climate change, the causes of which seem to be what spark the debate.



*"No matter which side of the argument you stand on, I think it's important to understand the counterargument from the other side.*"

I agree and also the need to understand what is being done about it. For me, the voters already approved billions for water projects, and yet years pass the billions are spent and we have no new dams. Just a bunch of rich consultants. 

Well, this thread is taking a turn that _LostButHappy_ probably didn't expect. Haha.


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## Tin Man (Dec 5, 2022)

Lost But Happy said:


> Hello All
> 
> I have a quandry...My boat is 14' long and my trailer is 14' long as well. As it currently sits, the transom hangs off the back about 2'.
> 
> ...



I had a similar situation with my trailer. If you search this forum you will find my thread.

What I did:
I purchased a 4' piece of square metal tubing (3"x3"x0.125) and also purchased a Fulton swing away coupler. I ended up making the added tongue 3' and it now swings off to one side. I had the metal powder coated to match the trailer. You could do the same with a galvanized tube to match your trailer.
No welding required....coupler is bolt on and I shortened the tubing with my metal chop saw.

Once the tongue was added, I could then move the bow stop forward so bunks extend 2" beyond rear of transom. I'm going change bunks from 5' to 7' as I want more of the hull supported. The added 2' will extend forward.

As mentioned, be sure to achieve the 10%-15% of TW for best towing and safety. Perhaps a combination of tongue extension, moving bow stop forward, and longer bunks will help to achieve this.


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## Lost But Happy (Dec 5, 2022)

LDUBS said:


> *"No matter which side of the argument you stand on, I think it's important to understand the counterargument from the other side.*"
> 
> I agree and also the need to understand what is being done about it. For me, the voters already approved billions for water projects, and yet years pass the billions are spent and we have no new dams. Just a bunch of rich consultants.
> 
> Well, this thread is taking a turn that _LostButHappy_ probably didn't expect. Haha.


LOL No worries. Ill throw a couple of memes in on this subject...


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## cyclops2 (Dec 19, 2022)

YAWN


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