# 12' Klamath full makeover



## callelk (Oct 11, 2014)

Hi all, been prowling this site for years and have recently purchased an 89 all welded 12' Klamath. My boating background includes 130+ MPH Alcohol V Drive runner-bottoms, Glass Ski Boats, 20’ River Jets and recently we are doing a lot more RV’ing so a Porta-A-Boat has been my fishing partner. I like the Porta-A-Boat but it is a little wet in even the smallest wind waves and my wife is afraid of it so a 12’ that can double as a car-topper was the only route that made sense.

Below are the as purchased photos. I moved the boat back 6” on the trailer to allow for dropping the tailgate and added a way-too-big winch but it was on closeout for $12.00 so it will work.












I will be removing the seats etc., sanding and repainting....


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## callelk (Oct 11, 2014)

I know I am getting old but I could not believe it was becoming so hard to the lift a boat that is advertised at 150# or so. It’s not. After drilling out the rivets holding the seats I found all of the polystyrene that was wrapped in plastic was waterlogged to the tune of about 20# per block so 5 waterlogged blocks = 100# additional weight. 

As it is fall, pool noodles are out of the question so I am thinking polystyrene wrapped in Tyvek and then tapped. I will be using 10-32 rivnuts to secure the new wood so I can access the floatation at any time to check how it is holding up.


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## jasper60103 (Oct 11, 2014)

Welcome aboard, callelk.
Congrats on the new rig.
Plan to add a motor to it?

jasper


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## callelk (Oct 11, 2014)

Thank you, and yes as I like to troll for trout and salmon on our lakes here in Idaho. Right now I have a 5HP Tohatsu that I used on my Port-A-Bote but I am keeping an eye out for a larger engine. I'm thinking an 8HP or at most a 9.9 2-stroke to keep the weight down and still troll at 2.0-2.5 mph.


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## WPS (Oct 12, 2014)

Nice boat!... Lookin' forward to see what you do to it!


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## rickybobbybend (Oct 13, 2014)

Your Klamath and Tohatsu will make a nice rig; be sure to post pics as you progress. At one time I had a 'rude 6hp on my Gregor and it was perfectly acceptable. A 9.9 will up the performance significantly, retain good trolling speed and let you access most hp-restricted lakes. Mine was good for just under 2 mph at the low end and a bit over 19 mph with me and all the gear. Total package weight and weight distribution make a huge difference on a 12 footer. Have fun.


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## wely (Oct 14, 2014)

Keep us updated on your modifications. I have a 12 footer as well might get some ideas from yours.


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## WPS (Oct 15, 2014)

Hey,

Have you done anything else to the boat ?

Where did you find the boat ?... Sure would like to find one like that!

Thanks!


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## Y_J (Oct 16, 2014)

Nice looking 12 footer with a clean slate to work with... Mine is 12' also but nothing as nice as yours is..


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## callelk (Oct 17, 2014)

WPS said:


> Hey,
> 
> Have you done anything else to the boat ?
> 
> ...



Found it locally on Craigslist. Don’t see many Klamath’s outside of Northern California and after looking for a Gregor H123 here in Idaho I all but gave up and resigned myself to the fact that I would have to travel to Central California to buy a boat. Valco’s, Western’s and other riveted boats are relatively common here but I wanted a welded boat only because my dad had an old, old, Ward’s riveted aluminum that leaked about a gallon per hour when I was growing up. He sold it and bought Klamath and it was a great boat for striper fishing in the Delta and lake fishing in Northern California. Anyway, I guy moved here from Southern California and bought a pontoon boat and the Klamath had to go. He originally wanted an outrageous price but a week later I guess he got desperate with winter coming on and became a lot more reasonable.


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## callelk (Oct 17, 2014)

Sorry guys, I travel for work so I may be gone for 3-4 or 5 days at a time. 

I finished sanding and started to paint but the weather got windy and cold so that is on hold until this weekend when it will be in the upper 70’s. Started installing the Rivnuts which will make it easy to remove and refinish the seats to keep them looking good.


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## callelk (Oct 17, 2014)

Additionally, I drilled holes to mount the cockpit lights (upper center of seat frame). I am using a gel lawn mower battery and want the charge to last at least a week for my Lowrence Elite 7 and LED’s will be the ticket. I will be using an 8 LED strip at the front of the rear seat and 4 LED strips at the front of both center and front seats. In the rear bilge area will be a round 3-LED light. I have not decided on running lights yet and because it is a car topper, I may just use the clamp-on LED type. I will wire and stub-off for permanent lights just because….


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## WPS (Oct 17, 2014)

Glad to see you back at it!

Thanks for the info too!... Sure can't find one of those boats in this area!


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## callelk (Oct 17, 2014)

WPS said:


> Glad to see you back at it!
> 
> Thanks for the info too!... Sure can't find one of those boats in this area!



Mostly jon boats in your area I would guess. Klamath's are built for big, deep rivers, bays, sounds, estuaries, etc. Our local lakes get afternoon wind waves to 3' so a "V" is popular as it is the only way to go if you want to stay relatively dry in those conditions.


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## callelk (Oct 17, 2014)

Started to test fit the new wood last night.






Will sand the edges to allow room for the West Systems epoxy and varnish.


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## callelk (Oct 17, 2014)

Forgot to post a photo of the electrical raceway(s). 1/2" electrical conduit G-Flex'd into place with clamps and I used a heat gun to give it a permanent bend to match the hulls contour.


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## callelk (Oct 18, 2014)

OK, need a little help from you folks. I need to mount my battery box securely but as it is a welded boat I have no idea what I should do. Can I epoxy aluminum angles to the floor with footman loops attached to the outside? It has to be easily removable and light as the boat will do double duty as a car topper.

Also, have some 1 1/16 hinge. what are the best screws to use in ply?


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## Y_J (Oct 18, 2014)

Depends on the thickness of the ply.. What ever it is make sure the screws are Stainless Steel.


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## callelk (Oct 19, 2014)

Y_J said:


> Depends on the thickness of the ply.. What ever it is make sure the screws are Stainless Steel.




Stock was 1/2" and that is what I replaced it with. I found some photos and I think i'm good with the exception of the latch. Any recommendations on brand/model. I would love a $75 flush latch but there has to be something more reasonable out there.


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## callelk (Oct 19, 2014)

Another question for all of you tin boat guys that run transducers on transom saver type mounts. The bottom of my transom is 90 degrees along bottom and then angles to 75 degrees. The 90 degree is tapered as it follows the 6 degree dead rise from +- 2" in the center to 1/2" at each end. What I am trying to do is mount my transducer plate as I have a 2 transducers and a tolling indicator speed paddle wheel that I need to install and adjust. if I install it along the straight edge, it will be 1" to 1/2" above the bottom of the boat and I'm not sure I can lower the transducer or paddle wheel enough. I could be wrong though.


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## callelk (Oct 25, 2014)

Just back from CO last night so I am posting the electrical I did before I left:







Power, lights and paddle wheel cable to the area I will install my switch box:






You can see the rear bilge light as well.


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## callelk (Oct 25, 2014)

I installed strip LED lights, an 8 LED in front of the rear seat and 4 LED for the front of the middle and front seats: 






They will be protected from the world by the seat overhang:






The wood blocks protect the seats from indentation by the temporary screw heads.


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## callelk (Oct 25, 2014)

Installed a transom plate:


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## callelk (Oct 25, 2014)

Finished drilling all of the wood today and used a router on the edges:






Started on the battery compartment as seen above. I am using a small wheelchair battery in a small battery box so the compartment does not have to be too big. This way I will have more room for the all important flotation.

I will be installing a key lock on the box with a slide-in seat base attached to the lid. My seat is on the starboard side and this is on the port to offset some of my weight especially when my wife fishes with me..


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## WPS (Oct 26, 2014)

Nice job so far... Like the lights!

What kind of wood are you using ?

Thanks!

Keep posting pics when you can!


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## callelk (Oct 26, 2014)

Thank you, just run of the mill AC marine glue that I have sanded smooth. I have started to use West Systems 105 + 207 for 2 coats of very clear epoxy with cut shellac as a top coat. Easy to repair and renew yearly.


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## WPS (Oct 26, 2014)

callelk said:


> Thank you, just run of the mill AC marine glue that I have sanded smooth. I have started to use West Systems 105 + 207 for 2 coats of very clear epoxy with cut shellac as a top coat. Easy to repair and renew yearly.


Thanks for the info!


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## callelk (Oct 26, 2014)

Here is my battery setup, the holes are threaded 10-32 which is more to keep everything in place as the West Systems G/flex dries:






Added a couple of pieces of 1/2 thick rubber to keep the box somewhat centered along with the strap. The footman loops are bolted with pan head screws in the inside and acorn nuts on the outside:






With the battery box in place:






The plug is the same as my charger so I can open the lid to charge or remove the battery and store with the solar maintainer attached.


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## WPS (Oct 28, 2014)

Nice job!... Looks great and that should hold the battery down!


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## callelk (Apr 11, 2015)

Well, after a cold winter I am back at it. Tried to finish the seats but business travel did not allow me over the winter. That said I am getting things done now that it is warming up and will post photos shortly.


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## callelk (Apr 13, 2015)

The sun was bright Sundy and I was using an iPhone so please forgive the photos. Saturday it rained off and on so I only worked on the boat for short periods of time and did not take photos.

From the rear:






I will be adding the rod holders to the stiffeners.

From the front:


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## callelk (Apr 13, 2015)

Added an electrical box with a switch for the under seat LED's and a switch with fuse holder for the Elite-7 HDI unit. Additionally there is a two (2) port USB charger in the mix.






The Scotty Downrigger mount was in a temporary position as I will be adding additional rod mounts to the rear for accessories like a Bait Buoy, GoPro Mount, drink holder, fender ring/rope eyes, etc.


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## 1lhorn (Apr 14, 2015)

Wow, the wood on those benches looks like high end Scandanavian furniture not boat seats. Nice work.
Nice to see another Klamath. I'm working on mine right now and will post pics when it's done.


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## callelk (Apr 15, 2015)

Thank you. 

The seats are great because they are actually tougher than hardwood floors. I used 4 coats of West Systems epoxy to seal them and then 2 coats of Spar Urethane just for grins. The Spar Urethane is water based so I was able to do it in the house without the smell. Another advantage is I can stand on the seats without worry of damage and they wipe clean of bait, worms etc.....

I took it out Tuesday to check for issues and not a drop of water. I will try to have more photos when I finish up a few odds and ends.

I am looking forward to photos of your Klamath, they are great boats and I was lucky to find one here in ID.


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## callelk (May 9, 2015)

Charging the battery before a day of Kookanee fishing:






Yeah, went with a 9.9 HP Merc. GPS Speed of 21+ loaded with just me in the boat.


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