# 2006 Tracker Grizzly 1448 Livewell install & Mods



## edrow (Jan 21, 2014)

I thought I would try to get some pictures up here of my latest project. This boat had random holes drilled here & there in the ribs & seats when I got it. I could tell it hadn't been used much and was in really nice shape. It came with an Edge 55lb foot controlled TM, a 24 gal. aluminum portable livewell, 2 seats and 5 seat posts. I got it on the cheap and have had a good time working on it. This is the first dedicated fishing boat I've had so I haven't done a whole lot to it yet. It didn't have a trolling motor mount or a floor in it, so those were the first issues I took care of. I also decked the rear between the transom & rear seat. Added nav, anchor lights & 12v power sockets to run bilge pump if necessary & fill my cooler livewell. I also added an offset bow seat base to give me a couple more inches up front. I put down 1/4" rubber mats cut to fit over floor & both decks. I got it from Rural King, they sell it by the foot. Easy to pull out & hose down, which is important because I spill about 2 jars of crappie nibbles every time out & mash them all over the place. I put a seat base in the middle of the boat for my 5 yr old son who often goes fishing with me. I like him to be down there until he gets the swimming thing down a little better. I had big plans of documenting this thing every step of the way with pics like some of the fantastic jobs I've seen on this site. I found my time being spent working on it every chance I had and forgetting to take pictures along the way.


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## SeTh_PsE (Jan 21, 2014)

Hey man looks good. How did you secure the PVC pipe or conduit up under the lip been wanting to do this thanks


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## edrow (Jan 21, 2014)

Thanks man! First I clamped the conduit down real tight with squeeze clamps. I put a clamp every couple of feet. I think that long run was about 10'. Then I laid in the floor of the boat and drilled a 1/2" hole at about the 5 o'clock position on the conduit, ONLY through the bottom side. That hole provided me with a big enough opening to get a 1/2" long, 1/8" diameter SS screw through the top of the conduit & into the lip. I did drill a 1/8" pilot hole for the SS screws, making sure I didn't go through the versa-trak channel. I used a screw driver to put the screws in through the pilot holes because I didn't tap the holes. SS screws are pretty brittle and you can snap the head of easily if your not careful. After turning the screw in I checked my clamps again, and moved to the next spot. I put 4 of these into that run of conduit and it has held up great. I know my pilot hole & screw were the same diameter, but it will thread nicely without tapping the hole. Just dont over tighten the screws, snug will do. You can always go to a bigger screw if they won't tighten up for you. Good luck I'm sure you can nail it!


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## SeTh_PsE (Jan 21, 2014)

Ha that's a heck of a idea never thought of that lol I got lights and electronics towards the front and don't want wires everywhere have been looking for something like this for a while awesome thanks man!!


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## edrow (Jan 21, 2014)

Hey no problem hope it works out for you. I have some more pics to post here later today of some other mods I've done, this site is the place for ideas & problem solving, for sure


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## SeTh_PsE (Jan 21, 2014)

Ya defiantly be looking for them I will be watching this one for sure


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## edrow (Jan 21, 2014)

All of the previous pics were taken right when I got to work on it, and had never had it on the water. After a year of fishing off of it I'm more certain of what I want. This round of pics is how the boat currently sits. I am getting ready to revise some areas. My rear deck is rock solid, but super heavy. I like the design, so I will be fabbing up a similar deck from aluminum. This will save me approximately 30lbs. I think I've decided to install the aluminum livewell also. Don't know if I will keep it where it is sitting in the picture, or cut out rear seat back to seat base and recess it into the seat. I'd like to do the 2nd option, so we'll see. Any opinions?


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## edrow (Jan 21, 2014)

Sorry for the orientation of some of those pics. I think if you click on them they may right themselves. Does on my phone anyway.


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## SeTh_PsE (Jan 21, 2014)

Another idea for your rod holder I use the ones made for a wall and cut
Them in half and put three rods on each side


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## edrow (Jan 21, 2014)

Hey those look good. Mine get a bit tangled at times, nothing major. I like how those turned out on your boat.


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## SeTh_PsE (Jan 22, 2014)

Ya that's the boat I going to try to copy your conduit idea


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## lovedr79 (Jan 22, 2014)

now that's what I am talking about! I have been trying to figure out how to do that in my boat for awhile and haven't found anything that looks and functions good. I may have to steal that idea for my boat.


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## edrow (Jan 24, 2014)

Here is what I've been able to accomplish on my rear deck. I am using 1"x2"x1/8" rectangular tubing for the support beams, and 1/8" sheet for the top plate. I plan on welding it all together when I get to that point, but this could easily be built with rivets. I just like to play with the welder whenever possible.


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## edrow (Jan 28, 2014)

I got this hatch cover installed & my hinge finally came in so I can finish up the rear deck. Hopefully sometime this week I can get that done & put up some more pics.


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## edrow (Feb 16, 2014)

I have had some time to get a little more accomplished. The rear deck is all welded up and done. I mounted my bilge pump and starting to get the livewell installed.


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## edrow (Mar 17, 2014)

Well I'm just about done, except for making it look a little more finished. I took it out and nothing leaks, everything works like I had planned. I think I'm really going to like this setup. Overflow keeps up with the freshwater fill pump, my modified drain fitting works like I was hoping. I am going to add some screen filters to the aerator suction and fill pump suction fittings. I put an LED light in as well, I need to get a cool pic of that up next.


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## typed by ben (Mar 18, 2014)

i like the bilge area cover. id like to do a complete flip up like that, but i may end up having to segment mine so i can open the hatch area while my outboard is attached. 

for your livewell, are you doing a gravity drain or pumping out? 

youve got a lot going on in the stern, looks like you were able to make it work together in a very tidy package


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## edrow (Mar 20, 2014)

Thanks. For my drain I'm pumping out. That's what the yellow pump is for. I keep the valve closed for recirculation, and pop out the cam hatch on the front cover and open the valve to drain the livewell. It works quite well. I just had to grind on the livewell fitting to get it as close to the bottom of the tank as possible. I'm really happy with it.


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## edrow (Mar 20, 2014)

As far as opening my rear hatch with the outboard on, I have about 3/4" clearance from the hatch touching anything to do with the outboard. I affixed the fuel line to the transom and cut out a spot in the hatch for it to pass through.


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## typed by ben (Mar 20, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=345600#p345600 said:


> edrow » 45 minutes ago[/url]"]Thanks. For my drain I'm pumping out. That's what the yellow pump is for. I keep the valve closed for recirculation, and pop out the cam hatch on the front cover and open the valve to drain the livewell. It works quite well. I just had to grind on the livewell fitting to get it as close to the bottom of the tank as possible. I'm really happy with it.


what would you say your clearance is to the bottom of the livewell? looking to do the same setup. are you able to pump everything out?

i have a really bad factory setup that id like to get rid of. the drain passes through the bottom of the hull (!!) with a bulkhead fitting and a regular lever expandable plug, like you use on 2 liter sodas. hardly adequate IMO, plus the bulkhead leaves an extra half inch of water in the well every time.


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## edrow (Mar 20, 2014)

I will take a good pic of my drain fitting and post it. I would say i left about 1/16" of a lip on the thru hull fitting for the drain. Just enough to bite the edge of the tank to hold it in place. It took some fine filing on the tank hole to get my fitting bottomed out, but it worked well. I would say there may be 1/16" water at the most in it after I drain. Barely enough to cover the bottom of the tank. I am going to get a small squeege to help take care of that. I used JB marine weld and just put a small bead around the fitting before I secured it. It doesnt leak a drop. Keep in mind, if you use the nut for the drain fitting it will be down around 1/2" or so lower than the bottom of the tank.


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## edrow (Mar 22, 2014)

Livewell light & drain fitting


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## typed by ben (Mar 22, 2014)

wow that thing IS low. its an idea though.


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## edrow (Mar 23, 2014)

I just used a grinder to grind down to where there was about 1/16" left on the lip, looking at the fitting from the barb side. Then I drilled the hole in the tank to where I had about 1/8" left from the bottom, and used a file to ream the hole out so the fitting would fit flush against the bottom of the tank.


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