# Smart Tabs on a small boat



## jellio5 (Apr 25, 2011)

Looking for some advise. Does anyone run smart tabs on there small (14 foot aluminum) boat. I have a 15HP and am wondering if there would be an advantage to putting them on....or has anyone made a set of these home made..there pretty spendy to test them and find out they don't do anything. I was thinking they could be made pretty cheap with stuff I already have minus the actuator which I would have to do some hunting to find. I'm thinking a 20lb actuator would work with my set up. Some heavy duty aluminum and some metal brackets. Just wondering if anyone has messed with this on a smaller boat. Originally I was going to go with hydrofoils on my engine but drilling into the cavitation plate isn't something I want to do.


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## huntinfool (Apr 25, 2011)

There are a couple different companies out there that make a hydrofoil that just clamps on the cavitation plate. (NO HOLES TO DRILL)

As for the tabs, I have never seen them on a smaller boat.


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## Comstocker (Apr 25, 2011)

If price is a concern, the bolt on hydrofoils are the least expensive. Drilling the cavitation plate isn't that big a deal, four small holes and your done. If you want to remove it later, just fill the holes with JB Weld, sand flush, and use a little touch up paint to cover.


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## richg99 (Apr 25, 2011)

I installed Smart Tabs on three boats. Still have them on my Caro Skiff 16 footer. Great devices if you need to get up in shallow water; or have a problem with too much bow lift that you cannot correct with tilt/trim adjustments on the motor. 

I did NOT install them on my present tinny (160W Lowe) as it doesn't have any problems that require tabs. 

ALL tabs are good if you need tabs. Smart Tabs are best used on the smaller boats IMHO. Lenco and Bennett Tabs are used on tons of really big boats.

I'd think a handy guy could duplicate the Smart Tab arrangement using gas pressure actuators, similar to the ones holding up my van's rear cargo door. If I were to do that, I'd probably buy the actuators at a Junk Car lot to keep the costs down, just in case the pressure I chose was the wrong pressure. 

Setting the system up requires that just the right amount of pressure be utilized. Too much is not good, nor is too little. On my first install... I had too strong of actuators. The Smart Tab people swapped them out free of charge after I called them.

regards,Rich


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## jellio5 (Apr 27, 2011)

I probably shouldn't post anything on this until the project is completed but I'm fabricating my own smart tabs. The only hold up is the cylinders which I had to order and they will take about a week to arrive. When all is said and done I will have $44.00 into them which is the cost of the cylinders,ball studs and the boots which I'll have to order from Nauticus. I had all the other stuff here and both bases/brackets took about 60 minutes a piece to make. I'll post pics of the bases and other brackets tonight. The only downer is I'm going to have to go with the ball/stud type connector on the cylinder which Nauticus has gone away from becuase I can see they will be a weak point. I won't be able to tell anything until I get the cylinders there is a possibility I may be able to tap/thread the cylinder and put an end on it to accept a nut/bolt I'll just have to wait to see when it comes. The ball/stud might be okay with my little 14 foot with 15HP....the boat is plenty stable just looking to get it up on plane and keep the bow down when I'm by myself. I think I'm going to make a quick disconnect for them so when someone is with me I can unhook and fold them up because the bow will stay down.


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## richg99 (Apr 27, 2011)

Jellio.... possible source for ball studs would be a hobby store that handles large gas powered r/c cars....or...,maybe someone who works on midget race cars etc.

re setting up to not use the lifts when you have a passenger....the later models of SmartTabs had a simple string/cord/wire setup attached to the the to edge of the stainless steel "flapper-pad". The wire ran up to the transom and could be drawn up and locked down with a simple cleat. It was added due to the need to back up in extreme shallow water. I never put it on mine, but...that's how they worked as I recall. 
regards, Rich


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## jellio5 (Apr 27, 2011)

I might be in luck I found an RV dealer who has the cylinders in stock 10" fully extended they are 23lbs but I think I'm going to give them a try he also said he has the little ball deals which will be nice should have them finished up late tonight. I think I have enough adjustablity in both the top bracket and bottom bracket if 23lbs is to much. I'll install them to the stiffest setting so I can adjust out from there. The pads on mine are kind of bulky because I don't have a break to make the bends on the stainless steal so I had to bolt some thin angle aluminum for the edges. They will deffinetly be sturdy enough.


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## richg99 (Apr 27, 2011)

Two ways that Smart Tabs provided for adjustment of the pressure was three or four holes on both the "pads" and ......again on the mounting bracket that held the gas struts to the transom. 

Picture a screen door closer. On the door side, it has a number of adjustment holes or notches. Same kind of adjustment allowance will help you balance the pressure for your needs. 

Too much pressure will keep the bow of the boat plowing...too little, and you won't have enough pressure to allow you to jump up on plane. 

My CS boat is 1200 miles away, or I would be shooting some pix for you. 
regards, Rich


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## jellio5 (Apr 28, 2011)

I've almost got them completed. One is totally done and ready to be installed the other just needs to have the bolts cut off and some holes drilled in the upper bracket then paint and it's ready...trying to figure out the how much travel I'm going to need was kind of tricky but I figured it out I need 2" of travel when set to 25 degrees....I've got a half inch either way if I need to go more or less and still have enough travel in the cylinder to come to level. Here's some pics. I do need to order the boots for the cylinders from the smart tab company before I put them in the water.


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## hkmp5s (Apr 28, 2011)

I was thinking of the same thing today. I got on here to ask if anyone uses them. All I want to do is keep my backend from squatting so bad when I take off. It rides great on plane but the 50 on the back makes my 15' squat a little.


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## richg99 (Apr 28, 2011)

Jell...Nice work. Pictures are deceiving, but, they look massive in size compared to the ones on my CS. I'd suggest starting with a very slight downward angle and adjust from there. A little TABing goes a long way. Keep us posted! Rich


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## Jim (Apr 28, 2011)

Great topic! I am going to be watching this one....


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## rgpemt (Apr 28, 2011)

LLLLOOOOOOVVVVVVEEEEE this! I have been tossing around the idea myself and this, as with all the other posts I have read here, are AMAZING!


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## jellio5 (Apr 28, 2011)

The actual dimensions on the plates are 7"x8". The pics do make them look much bigger. I still have to order the rubber boots to cover the cylinders or come up with another plan to cover them up....any ideas. I'm hoping to install them next week and hope for good weather on May 7th for a test drive. I am going to make something as well to compress the cylinders and hold them up if I have someone else with me because they may not be needed.


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## jellio5 (Apr 28, 2011)

Does anyone now where I can get some 3M 5200 Marine Sealant....wondering if I have to order it or does a box store like Gander Mountain carry it. Went and took a look at the boat and stuck the tabs on to see if they would fit....it's raining out so I can't do anything now but I'm going to have to move my transducer in order to get the tabs out as far as possible. The transducer is going to have to be moved over toward the motor a few inches and I need to the plug the old holes up. Any ideas on plugging these holes.


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## rgpemt (Apr 28, 2011)

Just bought my 5200 at Napa. 22 bucks a tube.


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## richg99 (Apr 28, 2011)

You can buy small squeeze tubes of 3M5200 at West Marine and many boat stores carry it. Buying a big tube is probably the most cost effective IF YOU NEED that much. 

The darn stuff, like any Polyurethane glue, will dry up and get as hard as a rock.

Great stuff...but expensive. regards, Rich

p.s. 3M5200 comes in black, also.


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## jellio5 (Apr 28, 2011)

Well took my transducer off and there was only three small screws holding it on. I ended up plugging them up with JB Weld puddy probaly put to much on but I'll let it sit for the night and then sand it down and touch up the paint. I put some really good silicone on the inside of the boat over the holes as well. Tomorrow I'm going to install the tabs. Had a little trouble today went to put on a clear coat over the painted one and it fish scaled the whole thing so I had to use some laquer thinner and get all the paint off and start over. I also had a little concern with my trolling motor since it's a transom mount and I was worried I wouldn't have enough room but as long as I keep the trim out one notch I'll have about an inch of space between the tab and the trolling motor shaft. I weighed them today and each tab fully assembled weighs two pounds. I was also a little worried about the length of the shaft and it being to short (get your minds out of the gutter) but I have at least a half inch of travel past level so it should be okay. Only other thing to do is figure something out to cover the cylinder with (minds out of the gutter again) it may not even be an issue because the shaft and cylinder are painted. Maybe a small piece of the clear rubber tubing or something.


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## rgpemt (Apr 28, 2011)

how about some shrink wrap for wiring. You only have to heat the ends that contact the body and the connection point...it may work. I'm looking forward to the sea trial!


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## jellio5 (Apr 28, 2011)

Well here is the finished product ready to install tomorrow. I'm going to start at 22 degrees pitch on them and if I need to I can stiffen them up or loosen them up once I try them out. The heat shrink might be a possibilty. If this works I'll be impressed with myself. Fortunatly the local RV dealer has some more cylinders of different weights so if I need to completly change them I have that option as well but I'm hoping I don't have to. I'm also going to put a little chain on them to pull and hold them up if I don't need them with two people in the boat.


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## richg99 (Apr 28, 2011)

If you are running the tabs in freshwater...I wouldn't worry much about covering the cylinders. Nothing that you can put on them would allow for sufficient freedom of movement..AND...stop water from contacting the surfaces. Perhaps just grease them up well.

I don't remember any covers on my cylinders on the SmartTabs...though they may have been made of different materials than yours. Rich


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## richg99 (Apr 28, 2011)

Just saw the pix. Very professional looking. Your brackets with the adjustments look very much like my SmartTabs.... We are all waiting the results of your trial runs. regards, Rich


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## jellio5 (Apr 29, 2011)

Quick question when installing the bolts on the hinges and attaching to the boat I was thinking of putting some silicon on the bolt and around the hole before tightening them....is there a better more leak proof way I was also thinking of putting some rubber washers on the bolts not sure where I would find them though. I'm going to put some grease on the shafts and make sure when I'm done fishing I wipe them down once I get home and per the Nauticus website I'll move them up and down if the boat has to sit for extended period of time. 

I may have to sneak out early one day next week and give it a try otherwise it will be next weekend not sure what the weather is supposed to be around here we had snow yesterday and 60 degrees today.


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## richg99 (Apr 29, 2011)

The original installation instructions for my first pair of STs had rubber washers included for a metal boat. All 3 of my installs were on fiberglass and I used 3M5200. 

Yes, when I noticed where you are..I wondered if you'd get a chance to check the ST's out on the water soon. Keep us posted. Great thread! 
regards, Rich


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## jjake (Apr 29, 2011)

An interesting concept for a jon boat. I had hydraulic tabs on my flats boat but never thought about tabs for my 1652 Lowe.

Going forward and running on plane makes sense. But if they are always down when you are going slow or stationary; does it make it difficult time when you reverse to get out of the weeds, tight timber or pulled off the occassional sand bar?


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## jellio5 (Apr 29, 2011)

I don't fish in shallow spots with weeds very up where backing up migh be a problem. IMO going in reverse while out in the lake or back out of the dock I think will be a none issue cause you can only go 2-3 mph in reverse anyway.


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## jellio5 (Apr 29, 2011)

The tabs are done and installed ready for sea trials. I also put some small chains on if the tabs are not needed when two people are in the boat. This should be interesting.....worst case they don't work and I have to take them off and plug 4 holes. Are we taking bets on if these will work or not. About the only thing I'm worried about is the life span of the cylinders. These are set at 23 degrees I can go up to 28 or down to 18 with the adjustments I have I figure since there 3lbs heavier than the Nauticus cylinders a little less angle will help that and be a good starting point. 

I almost hate to even write this but here goes.....I put some good grease on the balls and shafts of the cylinders to prevent corrosion I guess if I have to reapply once a month I will that wouldn't be bad. Also had to do some adjusting of my fuel tank to make sure it wasn't rubbing on anything. 

Here's some pics of the finished product. 







Here's a picture with them retracted with the chains











Retracted with the trolling motor on I can still trim my trolling motor in one more notch while fishing.


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## richg99 (Apr 29, 2011)

I've had them on three boats and still have them on my 16 Caro Skiff. I rarely if ever fish timber ...so I cannot answer there. 

I have kissed way too many oyster reefs and the tabs have never been in the way there. I have backed out of many places and never had them hang up. 

Very heavy weeds might be a problem, but I now fish Southern Wisconsin lakes that are full of lily pads and many other kinds of weeds. Never had any issues. I am, of course, normally working my way forward with my trolling motor when I am in the weeds. I have not noticed any issues and I've had them on various boats for about ten years. 

If you run extreme flats..and felt that you had to raise them up to back out of channel.....ST provides a manual cable/cord method of raising the tabs and cleating them off. Not as quick and fancy as Lencos or Bennetts...but they are functional. 

I think most guys keep them angled down too far. It doesn't take much tabbing to stop bow rising and the pneumatic lifters smooth out a ride.... big time. Too much angle and you are keeping the bow down with a loss of speed. I picked up speed after I replaced my hydrofoil with tabs. The physics of that feature is interesting and may still be on the ST site.

I love them.However, I do not seem to have a need for them on my present 160W Lowe.

regards, Rich


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## flatboat (May 1, 2011)

thats a good idea i like the size . if you flip the diamond part up , smoooth side down , be less drag .


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## jellio5 (May 2, 2011)

If I was going to make another set I would do a few things different. I flip the metal plate and I would either find a big sheet metal break to bend 1/2" edges on the aluminum if that wasn't a possiblity I would use 3/16" large head rivets with backing washers to hold the angle aluminum on.......I'd paint them a different color as well...that may still happen.


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## richg99 (May 2, 2011)

Function over form.......let's see how they work. The color and the grid-work will soon be forgotten..... if they work like the real thing. I think they are going to be great.!

regards, rich


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