# Choice to Mod?



## the hammer (Sep 19, 2007)

Hey folks, long time lurker with a decision to make:
Do I keep the 1999 Xpress 1546VJF and do some upgrades OR do I move up to a 16/17 boat aluminum?
I would probably remove the outboard and move it to the new boat.
I need a new trolling motor after my Motorguide 54lb 12V burned out.
The 15' is great when I'm fish by myself but it's a bit cramped for tournaments.
A mod would include:
1. Addition of wood decking/w carpeting near trolling motor mount.
2. Extension of decking/w carpeting to livewell.
3. Addition of rod locker (the biggy).
4. Rear decking with/carpeting.
5. New electric.
6. Trailer Maintenance.
7. Considering removing the current steering console w/attached livewell and swapping with stand-alone steering console and center divided livewell.

I figure a budget (high) of 2K including trolling motor to upgrade my current ride vs minimum of 4K of purchase of new hull w/trailer for 16'.


Pics of my current boat:


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## the hammer (Sep 19, 2007)

More:


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## Jim (Sep 19, 2007)

Great looking boat! Will the boat be able to handle the addition of all the decking and stuff? How many and what kind of Tourneys do you fish? I would keep it and upgrade if you can do the work yourself. An additional 2K for 1 additional foot in the end?


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## the hammer (Sep 19, 2007)

Final Set:


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## the hammer (Sep 19, 2007)

Jim said:


> Great looking boat! Will the boat be able to handle the addition of all the decking and stuff? How many and what kind of Tourneys do you fish? I would keep it and upgrade if you can do the work yourself. An additional 2K for 1 additional foot in the end?



Thanks for the compliments! I did a dry run a few years ago with a few pieces of 3/4" and it worked out great for the front deck but the rear deck was a bit rough. My best case would be finding some sheet aluminum in reasonable thickness and use aluminum for reinforcement.
The $/ft does stick in my craw but many of the clubs in this area follow the BASS 16' rule. I currently fish 6 tournaments/yr in a small club and a couple of larger open tournaments with no length restrictions on boat size. It's the BASS thing.

***Sorry About The Dirty Boat***


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## Jim (Sep 19, 2007)

the hammer said:


> Jim said:
> 
> 
> > Great looking boat! Will the boat be able to handle the addition of all the decking and stuff? How many and what kind of Tourneys do you fish? I would keep it and upgrade if you can do the work yourself. An additional 2K for 1 additional foot in the end?
> ...



aaaahhhhh! the 16 foot rule, I forgot about that! Is it exactly 15 feet long or 15 and some change?


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## the hammer (Sep 19, 2007)

I've measured it bow to transom at 15'4" BUT the Xpress website states 15' even although this specific model appears to have been discontinued (1546VJF) 1546VJ is the current model.
I have the console/livewell + floor.


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## Jim (Sep 19, 2007)

I think your good! Tell them it's 16 feet, they will never measure it. :wink:


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## pbw (Sep 19, 2007)

That's a pretty nice boat.


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## the hammer (Sep 19, 2007)

Jim said:


> I think your good! Tell them it's 16 feet, they will never measure it. :wink:



Someone protested me the first tournament of the 2006 season. It caused a major divide in the club, a long story for a long winter night!


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## the hammer (Sep 19, 2007)

pbw said:


> That's a pretty nice boat.



Thanks very much.


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## Jim (Sep 19, 2007)

the hammer said:


> Jim said:
> 
> 
> > I think your good! Tell them it's 16 feet, they will never measure it. :wink:
> ...



Are you serious?....There is always 1 in the crowd.


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## pbw (Sep 19, 2007)

I don't quiet understand the required boat length. I would have thought no limit would give more options, smaller board harder to fish from but goes to smaller places, larger boats easier to fish from but can't go to all places.


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## the hammer (Sep 19, 2007)

pbw said:


> I don't quiet understand the required boat length. I would have thought no limit would give more options, smaller board harder to fish from but goes to smaller places, larger boats easier to fish from but can't go to all places.



Some may consider it to be a safety issue.


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## redbug (Sep 19, 2007)

Any Bass. club that hold tournaments has insurance through bass 
the insurance company has the length requirement and it is a safety issue.
another thing that most clubs don't realize is that the insurance doesn't cover night tournaments


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## the hammer (Sep 19, 2007)

redbug said:


> Any Bass. club that hold tournaments has insurance through bass
> the insurance company has the length requirement and it is a safety issue.
> another thing that most clubs don't realize is that the insurance doesn't cover night tournaments



They should also be aware that it doesn't apply to BASS member to BASS member. It only extends to coverage BASS members liability to non-BASS members.
I find the claim of a 16' boat being much safer than a 15' boat dubious, considering the original boat length requirement for BASS was 14'. Debating the those issues weren't really the basis for this thread, rather getting input on making a decision.


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## Jim (Sep 19, 2007)

If you do more tournaments and are planning to do more with them, then You should go for the bigger boat. That stinks though because your boat is killer!


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## bassboy1 (Sep 19, 2007)

> If you do more tournaments and are planning to do more with them, then You should go for the bigger boat. That stinks though because your boat is killer!


Jim, you forgot about the possibility of MBS. MBS (multiple boat syndrome) is the best disease I have ever gotten. :lol:


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## the hammer (Sep 19, 2007)

Okay, a change in circumstances to report. My wife has made an offer; if I sell my boat and trailer (no motors) and hand her the cash, she will hand back that cash + an additional amount to purchase a new (larger) boat, trailer and new trolling motor. My current outboard would be moved to the new boat.
Now, what is a fair price for the boat and trailer? Xpress 1546VJF. Ideas?


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## redbug (Sep 19, 2007)

What area are you in?
that makes a big difference, also what size motor can you install on the boat?
are there a lot of small limited hp lakes in the area?
i just sold a 1991 alumaweld 15ft with a 15 hp Yamaha stainless steel prop tilt and trim and trailer with 2 new tires it was a bass boat with raised decks and livewell I sold it for $900. I think i could have done a lot better but wanted it gone...


Wayne


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## the hammer (Sep 19, 2007)

redbug said:


> What area are you in?
> that makes a big difference, also what size motor can you install on the boat?
> are there a lot of small limited hp lakes in the area?
> i just sold a 1991 alumaweld 15ft with a 15 hp Yamaha stainless steel prop tilt and trim and trailer with 2 new tires it was a bass boat with raised decks and livewell I sold it for $900. I think i could have done a lot better but wanted it gone...
> ...



Central NJ, right on the Raritan River, pretty close to Raritan Bay. Lake Hopatcong, Deal Lake, Delaware River, Greenwood Lake are at 50 miles or less, which gives open horse power. I'm going to say 100 miles and less for Susquehanna Flats and Hudson River, again open horsepower. I'm within an hour of Spruce Run and Round Valley, those are 9.9 HP. 
The boat is a 1998 or 99.


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## Jim (Sep 19, 2007)

Hopefully this link works, Let us know what you come up with.

https://www.nadaguides.com/default.aspx?LI=1-24-38-5692-0-0-0&l=1&w=24&p=38&f=5694&gc=mr&gtc=MR&m=0052&y=1998&ml=A


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## the hammer (Sep 19, 2007)

Jim said:


> Hopefully this link works, Let us know what you come up with.
> 
> https://www.nadaguides.com/default.aspx?LI=1-24-38-5692-0-0-0&l=1&w=24&p=38&f=5694&gc=mr&gtc=MR&m=0052&y=1998&ml=A




$1340. Low Retail boat/trailer


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## redbug (Sep 20, 2007)

I would hit your boat with a pressure washer and clean it up make it look pretty then start at $1500 and go from there. good luck you may need to hold on to it until spring to get a better price. at the end of the season prices go down


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## Jim (Sep 20, 2007)

I was going to say start at $1500 too!


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## the hammer (Sep 20, 2007)

The more I think about it, the more a $3,000 price tag to move up to 16' really wasn't making it. I discovered the steering console/live well sits on top of the floor, not into it, except for a 6"x12" opening where the livewell pump and drain enter and exit.
That would allow me a layout something similar to this but with a steering wheel, not a tiller.


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## Jim (Sep 20, 2007)

the hammer said:


> The more I think about it, the more a $3,000 price tag to move up to 16' really wasn't making it. I discovered the steering console/live well sits on top of the floor, not into it, except for a 6"x12" opening where the livewell pump and drain enter and exit.
> That would allow me a layout something similar to this but with a steering wheel, not a tiller.



I like the vmax painted motor!

They never did sell those did they?


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## bassboy1 (Sep 20, 2007)

As a rule, in the boating world, NADA guides tend to be LOW. If we are selling a boat, and someone counters, using NADA as their example, we don't even push it with that buyer. Being fall up where you live (you have to winterize, as the lake freezes - we don't have that, so the price of ski boats goes down, but fishing boats is fairly stable) 1500 sounds about right. If you put a motor on, and waited till spring, you would get more than 1500 + cost of motor, more than likely.


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## the hammer (Oct 9, 2007)

Well, I'm about 1/4 of the way into mod, gutted everything, well removed the steering console w/attached livewell. The two parts were attached by weld, so I separated them into two pieces, steering wheel console and livewell.
The livewell is being converted into a dry storage bin. More pics to follow!


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## the hammer (Nov 28, 2007)

I've gone a bit to ground during the design phase so no pics quite yet. I'm having design problems with the layout of the deck. I'll post some pics over the next couple of days.


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## Jim (Nov 28, 2007)

the hammer said:


> I've gone a bit to ground during the design phase so no pics quite yet. I'm having design problems with the layout of the deck. I'll post some pics over the next couple of days.



Cool! I cant wait to see them.


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## the hammer (Dec 15, 2007)

Been a while but, some recent work


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## the hammer (Dec 15, 2007)

Another of set:


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## the hammer (Dec 15, 2007)

Last From Set:


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## the hammer (Dec 15, 2007)

I extended the front deck from about 3' to about 8'. I'll be jointing the 4 pieces together after I seal a couple of the segments. After that comes the carpet.
I've removed the original live well. It was part of the console. I split them apart and I'll be using the old console for steering. I'm looking for a live well liner and I'm thinking about storage configuration.
More to follow.


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## bassboy1 (Dec 15, 2007)

Please don't tell me that is pressure treated 2 x 4s holding up that deck. I don't know if you know this, but certain pressure treatments react with aluminum. You see, pressure treated wood is often impregnated with copper. Copper and aluminum are dissimilar metals. When 2 dissimilar metals combine, is starts galvanic corrosion. That will eat up your boat.

Also, are those brackets galvanized? Are any of them touching the hull? Galvanization is the coating of iron, or steel, with zinc. Zinc, and aluminum are dissimilar metals. If none of the brackets are touching the aluminum, you shouldn't have a problem, but if it is, you might. Here is a little chart.
https://www.galvanizeit.org/showContent,280,324.cfm
You notice, the zinc to aluminum (the top one on the chart) under marine, it is 0 - 1, as far as corrosion - O being no corrosion, and 1 being light corrosion, tolerable under certain circumstances. 

For fasteners, the best things you can get, are stainless steel. These are fairly compatible with aluminum (aluminum will corrode with anything - including air. When you cut a piece of aluminum, and look at it, for a second, it will be shiny, but pretty soon it will get that dull luster a lot of uncoated aluminum has. That layer of corrosion is good, as it forms a layer of protection for the rest of the aluminum. Most aluminum boats, that aren't painted, will have some coating, to keep them shiny) But, Stainless steel, is the best fastener, aside from one made out of the same grade aluminum.

Hope this helps somebody.


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## the hammer (Dec 15, 2007)

None of the galvanized supports are touching the aluminum.
None of the pressure treated is in direct contact with the hull. There is floorboard of some sort and the aluminum you see is an inner wall.
I remember seeing a few people mention the pressure treated issues and I recall from shop class, back in the stone age, about interaction between metals.
Thanks for input though, it's better to learn from someone else's mistakes!


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## Jim (Dec 15, 2007)

Hey hammer! Thats coming out real nice! Cant wait to see the finished product.


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## bassboy1 (Dec 15, 2007)

the hammer said:


> None of the galvanized supports are touching the aluminum.
> None of the pressure treated is in direct contact with the hull. There is floorboard of some sort and the aluminum you see is an inner wall.
> I remember seeing a few people mention the pressure treated issues and I recall from shop class, back in the stone age, about interaction between metals.
> Thanks for input though, it's better to learn from someone else's mistakes!


Its all good. Good luck.


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## Waterwings (Dec 16, 2007)

Looks good!  

If you get concerned about the edge of the decking that is not supported underneath, checkout how pbw is doing his re-decking bracing.


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## the hammer (Dec 19, 2007)

Front deck sections laid out. A few remain to be sealed.


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## the hammer (Dec 19, 2007)

Two More:


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## the hammer (Dec 19, 2007)

Some notes:

The console is placed in general position.

The front navigation light is under the trolling motor section cause a bit of the bow.

The trolling motor deck overhangs the main deck.

Now I have to figure how to bolt the decks into position.

I also need to measure and place aluminum or wood supports between trolling motor deck and main deck.


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## Jim (Dec 19, 2007)

looking good hammer! =D>


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## Captain Ahab (Dec 19, 2007)

That looks awesome - you have a fish catching machine there for sure.

How much weight have you added with all that wood? I decked out the front of my 19" deep v aluminum boat and it actually improved the ride, kept the bow down just a little and the boat rode super smooth.


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## the hammer (Dec 19, 2007)

esquired said:


> That looks awesome - you have a fish catching machine there for sure.
> 
> How much weight have you added with all that wood? I decked out the front of my 19" deep v aluminum boat and it actually improved the ride, kept the bow down just a little and the boat rode super smooth.



Thanks. I'm looking forward to final assembly, carpeting, setting the livewell and configuring storage.

I know what you mean about weight distribution and speed and handling improvements. I did a temporary deck a few years ago and brought the batteries forward. It was quite an improvement.

I guess I have about 1 and 1/2 pieces of 23/32 plywood and pressure treated frames, so maybe 50 lbs or so? I would have preferred using aluminum instead of pressure treated but I can't find what I'm looking for.


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## Captain Ahab (Dec 19, 2007)

Hammer - where are you located?


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## the hammer (Dec 19, 2007)

esquired said:


> Hammer - where are you located?



Central NJ


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## the hammer (Dec 19, 2007)

Fishin NJ said:


> Hammer where abouts? I grew up in central jersey, Somerset area.


South Middlesex County, pretty close to Hightstown.


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## Waterwings (Dec 19, 2007)

Hammer, it's looking good!


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## the hammer (Dec 26, 2007)

Carpeted Deck:

1. New seat will be positioned here. About 10" - 12" back from OEM, better stability, wider beam at this point and additional room for trolling motor cable.

2. Dry storage access. Don't know if I'm going to build something, rig something or get hatches and liners.

3. New live-well position. Definitely a hatch w/ liner.


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## Jim (Dec 26, 2007)

That came out awesome! =D>


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## the hammer (Dec 26, 2007)

Notice the angle of the rise from front of deck to accelerator stick/ignition. I may remove another 1/2" from studs to bring it just below the gunnel guard.
That will be determined when I can get out on the water for a shakedown.
Electric is next along with trolling motor.
The carpet wasn't glued. I attached with stainless steel staples from two positions; edges of decks and from underneath. I also am using screws with finishing washers. Part of my decision was about getting back on the water other part was based upon rod straps, screws for utility hatch and live well lids.
If it turned out to be an issue, I can always do adhesive later.


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## pbw (Dec 26, 2007)

Looks good! :shock:


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## Waterwings (Dec 27, 2007)

Looks great!


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## Popeye (Dec 28, 2007)

I was wondering... Do you want the deck to be level or slightly sloped to the back when it's floating. I think I would so any water would not pool up front. Never done anything like that so I'm just guessing and throwing it out.


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## Waterwings (Dec 28, 2007)

Hard to say without seeing the boat floating, but I'm guessing the deck [slope] will be fine once the boat is in the water and there's weight in the back, but you never know once you're standing in the front. The shakedown cruise will show if anything needs to be adjusted.


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## the hammer (Jan 16, 2008)

Status Report:

Doing a bit of work but nothing really pic worthy. Laid the 6 gauge wire, put in the livewell and waiting on the final length of 1 1/8 hose. Drilled the holes to attach the console. Will take a few shots when all that is completed.

Minor Product Recommendation:

I went with one of those Tempress hatch w/liner for the livewell. I like how it installs. Liked it so much, I ordered another one for dry storage.
I know a lot of guys go for a DYI build and I did give it some thought myself. Despite the cost, I went for the pre-mold. My reason, shed some weight on the total build. I'm using 3/4 or 23/32 plywood and the stuff ain't light. If I can shave a few pounds here or there, I'm going to go for it.

Later


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## Jim (Jan 16, 2008)

thanks for the update hammer, Look forward to seeing the pics.


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## Waterwings (Jan 16, 2008)

Sounds like it's going well  .


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## little anth (Jan 16, 2008)

sounds good. good luck


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## the hammer (Jan 23, 2008)

A few more pics:


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## the hammer (Jan 23, 2008)

And more:


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## Popeye (Jan 23, 2008)

Red and black? You can't use red and black on a small boat for anything other than the battery to fuse block wiring. That's right in the National Electric Code. All other wires have to be chartreuse and mauve. Just Kidding :lol: 

Looks good.


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## the hammer (Jan 23, 2008)

and more:


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## the hammer (Jan 23, 2008)

and finally:


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## Waterwings (Jan 23, 2008)

Great work!


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## Jim (Jan 24, 2008)

Nice work there hammer!! Your boat is coming out real good! 

Those lids on those livewells/containers....Do they support weight (Can you stand on them?).


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## the hammer (Jan 24, 2008)

Jim said:


> Nice work there hammer!! Your boat is coming out real good!
> 
> Those lids on those livewells/containers....Do they support weight (Can you stand on them?).



According to the manufacturer, yes, it can support weight. I haven't stood on it but I have placed a lot of my weight on it while doing some work. I'm unable to take it out to check the exterior livewell intake and drain, the lakes are pretty much frozen around here.
I got the console attached to the deck today. Trolling motor deck and trolling motor go on next. Just a critical mass of work.


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## bassboy1 (Jan 24, 2008)

flounderhead59 said:


> Red and black? You can't use red and black on a small boat for anything other than the battery to fuse block wiring. That's right in the National Electric Code. All other wires have to be chartreuse and mauve. Just Kidding :lol:
> 
> Looks good.


At first I thought you were just yanking our chain, but then I thought about it, and all the leads on the marine components I have bought were the chartruese and off white. Why is this? Now, it won't stop me from using red and black wiring, but I am curious to know. It obviously doesn't have to do with a voltage thing, as many 12 volt vehicle leads are red and black.


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## switchback (Feb 10, 2008)

Looks great.


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## Tyler_W (Apr 2, 2008)

Can somebody tell me where a can get a livewell like that?


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## Jim (Apr 2, 2008)

Tyler_W said:


> Can somebody tell me where a can get a livewell like that?



Here:

Tempress

The liner is on the right hand side!


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## Jim (Apr 4, 2008)

Hammer,

Will these hold 3600 and 3700 size boxes? It seems from the dimensions they can!


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## FishingBuds (Apr 4, 2008)

Yes, Yes, Yes-thats the way it should look. =D> Awsome Hammer


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## the hammer (Feb 13, 2011)

An update to my story:

I kept this modded boat for 3 years, just sold it 11/2010. I was having some problems so I did need another boat, which I just recently ordered, a new G3 1756SC
but without an outboard, for the time being.
I'm getting in the swing of things after my absence and I'm checking everybody's projects. I'm very impressed with the workmanship and ingenuity and maybe a little 
bit jealous of the final products.
It's great to be back and can't wait to learn a bit and share a bit.


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## Flat Bottom (Feb 13, 2011)

bassboy1 said:


> > If you do more tournaments and are planning to do more with them, then You should go for the bigger boat. That stinks though because your boat is killer!
> 
> 
> Jim, you forgot about the possibility of MBS. MBS (multiple boat syndrome) is the best disease I have ever gotten. :lol:




I have mbs... :twisted: I like you boat, never been in a tourney, however if they want your boat a certain length permanently affix something to the bow that sticks out the additional little bit... light post, anchor guide, mermaid etc...


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