# jon boat overhaul



## Ouachita (Feb 9, 2008)

Hello everyone, I stumbled on this site when I was doing research for my jon boat overhaul. I have been checking in getting ideas and am finally ready to start the project so I thought I would post as I went to get input and advice. This is my boat.





This is a 16 ft. 1971 model jon. The floor beam is 48" and it is a really solid boat. My father-in-law and I spent last night rebucking every rivet on the hull to get everything tightened up. I also had some welding done to fix a crack in the top of the transom and some cracked ribs. I am in the process of bracing the repaired ribs by pop riveting 1" aluminum strips to either side. The setup on this boat is a little weird as the rear bench seat is 3.5 feet from the transom. I have to sit on a tool box step stool in order to run the motor. That has to change.




I am planning on putting a wood on the floors, raising the forward bench 4 " and extending forward 20" for battery storage. Also, I will raise the rear bench 4" and build on either side of the boat from the rear bench to the transom. This will allow me to add a seat on the side to run the motor. The bow has a factory deck that is about 3.5 feet so I don't think I'll add any more large deck area. It just needs to be reinforced to the ribs to hold a pedestal. 




I'll be posting updates soon so please give all the input you can. Thanks guys. I really enjoy the site.


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## switchback (Feb 10, 2008)

Hi and welcome to the site. I found this site the same way. I'm in the middle of doing mine right now. Make sure to take plenty of pics as you go. I'm about ready to post more pics on my progress soon.


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## Jim (Feb 10, 2008)

Hi Ouachita,
Thanks for joining and showing your boat project to us. I look forward to seeing the progress being made, your boat seems like a sweet candidate for some cool upgrades and mods. It will be cool to see a complete build on the rear where the motor will be!

Jim


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## alumacraftjoe (Feb 10, 2008)

Welcome Aboard!


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## bassboy1 (Feb 10, 2008)

Ouachita said:


> please give all the input you can.


The only concern I have is the idea of riding up on top of a pedestal seat to operate the outboard. It has never felt like the safest thing to do, even though I see it done a lot.


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## Ouachita (Feb 10, 2008)

The seat I will have for operating the motor will not be a pedestal and will be for steering only. The fishing seat will be centered on what is now the rear bench. I run a 30hp tiller steer on this boat. I agree with you on steering from a pedestal. If i took off from a pedestal I would end up in the lake. The rear area I am envisioning will be horseshoe shaped with the floor open for foot space. Years ago I had a bomber-style bass boat that you ran from the front pedestal seat mounted on the floor. It was the stick steering type with the stick on the left and the outboard controls on the right. I always felt like I would be ejected with every turn.


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## Ouachita (Feb 23, 2008)

Well, I've made some progress on my boat. I have the three sections of floor installed and have the framing completed for the front seat section. The front seat area is where my batteries will be stored. 












I will also have 3-1/2" storage areas on top of the bench seats. After adding the height to the bench seats I will still have 5" to the top of the rail. This will make seating more comfortable for us big guys so our knees aren't in our chest.

I left the original carpet on the bench seat. It was in ok shape and will serve as a nice bottom for the storage areas, insulate the aluminum from the galvanized strong-tie braces and most important I didn't have to scrape carpet glue.






I am going to tackle the framing for the rear bench next before I add decking.


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## Waterwings (Feb 23, 2008)

Looks great! Some good solid bracing there. Keep us updated  .


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## kentuckybassman (Feb 23, 2008)

Lookin' good!! =D>


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## Jim (Feb 23, 2008)

nice job man! Is that going to be storage next to the seats?


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## Ouachita (Feb 23, 2008)

yes, the port side will have two separate lids. One for the battery compartment and the other for storage. The starboard side will have one large lid that will access battery and storage for less used items. My motor is electric start so I will locate the starting battery up front and at least one deep cycle for TM, lights and bilge.


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## Ouachita (Feb 23, 2008)

I've gotten most of the rear framing done. I thought I would take a break and snap some pictures.






I am going to leave the area under the side benches open to be able to slide bins or tackle boxes under. I will put a seat base on the starboard side for motor operation. I'm going to have to mess around with seat placement before I put in the cross bracing.


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## ky_madman (Feb 25, 2008)

Looking Good ! Can't wait to see the finished product.


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## pbw (Feb 25, 2008)

Nice you could hold a square dance on that decking with 2x4s!


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## Ouachita (Feb 25, 2008)

I've got my fiddle all tuned up! :-({|=


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## bAcKpAiN (Feb 26, 2008)

Yea, it is looking very nice!


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## Ouachita (Mar 3, 2008)

Well, I've finally got all the decking installed. It all had at least one coat of marine varnish before being screwed in so it was a time consuming process. I am going to try to post some pictures this evening. I bought the carpet from Lowe's last night. We are in the middle of a cold snap in the Dallas area(40's and rainy) so I will have to wait until next weekend to get back to temps suitable for the carpet glue (no garage heater).


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## Ouachita (Mar 3, 2008)




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## Jim (Mar 3, 2008)

Looking good! =D> =D> =D>


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## Ouachita (Mar 3, 2008)

Thanks Jim. I'm a little intimidated by the upcoming carpet installation. I also can't decide whether to carpet the floor or put down an epoxy no-slip paint that I found at BPS.


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## sccamper (Mar 3, 2008)

Man thats comin around great.


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## Ouachita (Mar 16, 2008)

I got a lot accomplished on the build this weekend and the thing is getting close to finished. The carpeting and hatches were time consuming. 

















I had starting making the hatches with 1/2-inch plywood and with the carpet stapled underneath them they were higher than the 1/2-inch plywood decking. I scrapped the ones I had done and used 3/8-inch and they ended up being flush when they were installed. You can see the discarded ones shoved up in the front storage area. Maybe I'll sell them on ebay. :lol: 


























I may end up putting in a removable cross brace under the large double hatch if the 3/8 is not sturdy enough. I went simple with the hatch pulls. It is just nylon strap staple underneath an on the edge so it can't fold under. It works good and was free.






The sidewalls in the center area will be finished out with a carpeted piece of 1/4-inch plywood. I have one side cut but ran out of steam before cutting the 2nd.











The next step will be wiring which is already underway. I will also need to tackle the front aluminum deck. It had carpet on before. It was that shaggy marine carpet and it was nasty. I ripped it off and now have to deal with the liquid nails type glue the former owner used. I would like to rivet a piece of aluminum diamond tread on top but that way outside of the wife imposed budget. I'll probably get is smoothed down and recarpet it.


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## Jim (Mar 16, 2008)

Ouachita said:


> I'm a little intimidated by the upcoming carpet installation.



LOL! You have got to be kidding right? That job you did looks amazing man!
:beer:


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## Waterwings (Mar 16, 2008)

Carpet job looks great!  

If you decide to sand tha liquid nails off the front deck, be sure and wear a paper filter mask or something. Don't want to be inhaling that stuff :shock:


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## Ouachita (Mar 19, 2008)

I just went real slow doing the carpet to try and avoid screw ups. I managed to not cut any pieces with the carpet grain running the wrong way. Changing blades in the razor knife I found was very important. I will probably shed a few tears when I get the first shad guts ground into the carpet.


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## Jim (Mar 19, 2008)

Ouachita said:


> I will probably shed a few tears when I get the first shad guts ground into the carpet.



:LOL2:


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## Tompatt (Mar 20, 2008)

that whole framing is used with 2x4s and some brackets?


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## Ouachita (Mar 20, 2008)

I used 2x4's to get the height I needed off of the benches. I also used 2x2's and 2x3' where I could to save on weight. The brackets were all simpson strong-ties from home depot.


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## asinz (Mar 20, 2008)

Looks very nice!


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## Waterwings (Mar 20, 2008)

> Changing blades in the razor knife I found was very import



Absolutely! I found that out when I carpeted my boat. Sharp blades are a must


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## Captain Ahab (Mar 21, 2008)

Nice professional job!


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## FishingBuds (Mar 22, 2008)

looken good

the sides that your doing with the 1/4 inch board could ya get a snap shot of that over it looking down?? or a finished shot like it??

I'm thanken of doing that as well but, I'm not satisfied of the finished look.

kinda figuring how big of a gap it may be at the top looking down?


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## Ouachita (Mar 23, 2008)

FishingBuds said:


> looken good
> 
> the sides that your doing with the 1/4 inch board could ya get a snap shot of that over it looking down?? or a finished shot like it??
> 
> ...























The sides turned out really good. I fastened them to the ribs using 1" stainless steel panhead screws with stainless finishing washers. There is no gap at all between the top of the board and the side of the boat. It makes the boat look a lot more finished out.


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## Ouachita (Mar 23, 2008)

The boat is now in upside down mode. I put the mass of people that were at our house for Easter lunch to work getting it flipped and on sawhorses. I am stripping the paint and am going to put Steel-Flex Epoxy on the bottom. That is the stuff that is put on airboats in Florida and used on mud-motor boats. It will seal all the rivets and make the bottom indestructible (almost). 











I am using Kleen-Strip Aircraft Remover to get the paint off. The surface needs to be down to bare metal. 






The stuff is working pretty good so far. We'll see how long this takes.


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## Captain Ahab (Mar 24, 2008)

Looking like you are moving along. 


Did you have Aircraft stuck to your boat?
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## Jim (Mar 24, 2008)

Looking good! What color are you planning on painting it?


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## Ouachita (Mar 24, 2008)

The steel-flex will be tinted with olive drab green. I'm not going to paint the rest of the boat. The paint job, by previous owner, is still in good shape. I will also duck hunt out of this boat so there may be some camo pattern added at some point.


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## FishingBuds (Mar 24, 2008)

thanks 8)


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## Nickk (Mar 24, 2008)

Looks great! 





esquired said:


> Did you have Aircraft stuck to your boat?
> :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:




:lol: :lol:


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## Ouachita (Mar 24, 2008)

esquired said:


> Looking like you are moving along.
> 
> 
> Did you have Aircraft stuck to your boat?
> :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:


I thought that name was a little wierd too. Kind of like one of those english-to chinese-back to english translated product names.


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## slabmaster (Mar 27, 2008)

very nice work. i am going to finish off the sides of mine similar to the way you did yours


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## Tompatt (Mar 27, 2008)

wat type of brackets did u use?


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## Ouachita (Mar 27, 2008)

tompatt said:


> wat type of brackets did u use?


I didn't have to use any brackets for the sides. The boards laid flush with the ribs that ran up the sides. They are screwed directly to the ribs.


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## Tompatt (Mar 27, 2008)

Ouachita said:


> tompatt said:
> 
> 
> > wat type of brackets did u use?
> ...



lol. i meant for the front deck. Srry.


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## Ouachita (Mar 28, 2008)

tompatt said:


> Ouachita said:
> 
> 
> > tompatt said:
> ...


I used Simpson Strong-Tie brackets from Lowes or HD. They are galvanized so they aren't in direct contact with the aluminum anywhere on the boat. Here's a link to the item at Lowes. https://tinyurl.com/34kjxh 
I used different types. Just spent alot of time staring at the wall of brackets visualizing what I was trying to accomplish.


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## Tompatt (Mar 28, 2008)

Ouachita said:


> tompatt said:
> 
> 
> > Ouachita said:
> ...



ok kool. i just got my license today. im gonna go drive around.


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## tholdah (Mar 30, 2008)

What did you do to get the glue off of the aluminum before your recarpeted?


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## Ouachita (Apr 1, 2008)

tholdah said:


> What did you do to get the glue off of the aluminum before your recarpeted?


I haven't starting recarpeting the front deck area yet. I am going to try to use a large razor blade (4") scraper and possibly some glue remover if I can't get it smoothed out enough. The simplest thing may be to cut a piece of 1/4" ply to fit the deck, carpet that and bolt it down.


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## Ouachita (Apr 4, 2008)

Well, I got the steel-flex applied to the hull this week. It is a two part epoxy that I tinted olive drab green. This thing is now totally sealed and should not leak a drop. There was about 1/4 inch of the stuff dried in a plastic paint mixing tub and I tried pounding thru it with the end of a screwdriver and it would it only put a few tiny nicks in it. That is before it even totally cured! I took pics but we had a niece born this afternoon and my wife ran off with the camera. Hopefully pics will be posted late this evening or tomorrow.


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## Ouachita (Apr 5, 2008)

Here are pictures of the steel-flex












The boat is stripped to bare aluminum (as close as I could get), sanded with 60 grit sandpaper to rough up the surface and wiped with acetone.






I only mixed up a quart at a time to put on the boat. The stuff will set up in 20-30 minutes in the tub after mixed so I didn't want to have to rush. I would just pour out a line on the boat and spread it with a 4" roller. I was working by myself so I don't have any exciting action shots.





















The color ended up considerably darker than I thought it would. I guess my boat is not quite as olive drab as I thought. The closeups don't do it justice but it is like the bottom of the boat is heat shrinked.


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## Jim (Apr 5, 2008)

Looks good so far!


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## RStewart (Apr 6, 2008)

Looks good. Could you paint over the epoxy if you wanted to? Does the epoxy come in any other colors?


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## Ouachita (Apr 6, 2008)

stew6371 said:


> Could you paint over the epoxy if you wanted to? Does the epoxy come in any other colors?


Not sure if it is paintable. The colors that show to be available on the pigment jar label are olive drab green, flat green, phalo green?, black, white, grey, phalo blue?, hialeah blue?, flat blue, brown, beige, yellow, flat red. I ordered the neutral that can be pigmented. It also comes in clear and white.


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## Ouachita (Apr 15, 2008)

I have made some progress and have most of the wiring completed. I used an electrical junction box from HD as my switch box.






I have a 3-way pull switch for my nav lights and 3 toggles for bilge, red deck lighting and one yet to be used which will either be for docking lights or another deck light in the bow. The bow deck light would probably be better if the switch is up front. 






my deep cycle trolling battery runs all the lights, bilge and the TM if I decide to mount it back. 






the marine starting battery on the port side starts the motor and will run the yet to be purchased fish finder






Here is a view of the beast finally unleashed from the garage


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## Waterwings (Apr 15, 2008)

Great job, and using the junction box was nifty idea! 8)


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## Jim (Apr 15, 2008)

Great job man! Love the box!


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## Popeye (Apr 15, 2008)

Box looks good... 'cept it's crooked :lol:


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## snowboardinmn (Apr 15, 2008)

looks really good


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## Ouachita (Apr 16, 2008)

Thanks everyone.


flounderhead59 said:


> Box looks good... 'cept it's crooked :lol:


That comment actually made me go out into the garage this morning and confirm it is not crooked. I'm a little obsessive. :lol:


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## G3_Guy (Apr 16, 2008)

Good job! Looks good!


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## Popeye (Apr 16, 2008)

Ouachita said:


> Thanks everyone.
> 
> 
> flounderhead59 said:
> ...



Maybe it's just me that's sort of out of whack.

(shut up Dave)


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## Captain Ahab (Apr 16, 2008)

flounderhead59 said:


> Maybe it's just me that's sort of out of whack.
> 
> (shut up Dave)



I am shutting UP!


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## slabmaster (Apr 16, 2008)

very nice work. in about 10 yrs i'm gonna get me some of that steel flex.


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## russo (Apr 16, 2008)

that looks absolutely fantastic!!

how did you keep the strongties from having contact with aluminum? 
did you like them with chunks of old inner tube or something?

im scratching my head trying to figure this one out before i start mine


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## Ouachita (Apr 18, 2008)

russo said:


> how did you keep the strongties from having contact with aluminum?
> did you like them with chunks of old inner tube or something?
> 
> im scratching my head trying to figure this one out before i start mine



My benches had been previously carpeted. I left that on so the rubber backing insulated the aluminum. The only other places I used strongties were to the floor(wood) and two spots on the transom and used nylon washers for those.


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## flipgreer (Apr 18, 2008)

I'm new to this board and was reading up on this mod. Can you please inform me on why you didnt want the brackets in contact with the aluminum? Is this for interference? Thanks for the help.


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## Ouachita (Apr 18, 2008)

flipgreer said:


> I'm new to this board and was reading up on this mod. Can you please inform me on why you didnt want the brackets in contact with the aluminum? Is this for interference? Thanks for the help.


Aluminum does not get along with other types of metal. Having them in direct contact will cause corrosion. Especially galvanized which is what the strongties are contructed with. Stainless steel works the best with aluminum which is why you read other mods and they all talk about using aluminum screws and fasteners.


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## russo (Apr 18, 2008)

so would separating the metals with non-metallic washers be enough, or should i/we use something like a flap of thin rubber/polyurethane or something? (like an old inner tube or something)


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## Ouachita (Apr 18, 2008)

russo said:


> so would separating the metals with non-metallic washers be enough, or should i/we use something like a flap of thin rubber/polyurethane or something? (like an old inner tube or something)


i would think the washers would be sufficient but the flap of rubber might be even better. Just make sure your screws are stainless steel.


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## russo (Apr 18, 2008)

fantastic, thank you VERY much for the insight
(and sorry for the thread hijack!)


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## kemical (May 8, 2008)

Ouachita said:


> Here are pictures of the steel-flex
> 
> 
> The boat is stripped to bare aluminum (as close as I could get), sanded with 60 grit sandpaper to rough up the surface and wiped with acetone.
> ...



WOW!! the white part looks like fiberglass!! does it get hard, or does this stuff get rubbery??


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## Popeye (May 8, 2008)

Ouachita said:


> Thanks everyone.
> 
> 
> flounderhead59 said:
> ...



Okay, how's this... the nuts on the rubber boots aren't even... :lol: :lol: it looks fine


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## FishingBuds (May 8, 2008)

are you done yet? The water's waiting :lol: 


Serious great job =D>


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## Ouachita (May 9, 2008)

FishingBuds said:


> are you done yet? The water's waiting :lol:
> 
> 
> Serious great job =D>


Thanks. I have had it out a few times for test runs but I've run into motor issues that have me in dry dock for the moment. I have installed a new fuel pump kit, replace the impeller, had the prop hub replaced and am about to replace the thermostat when my parts get in. Hopefully I can get it done this weekend or next. The boat itself is almost 100% aside from mounting back anchor cleats and putting in rod holders.


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## LeftCoastAngler (Jun 15, 2008)

Have you had that thing in salt water? I'm thinking that stuff ok in the harsh environments being it's used on airboats... >? I'd like to coat the bottom of mine with something... 
~LCA.


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## Ouachita (Jun 15, 2008)

LeftCoastAngler said:


> Have you had that thing in salt water? I'm thinking that stuff ok in the harsh environments being it's used on airboats... >? I'd like to coat the bottom of mine with something...
> ~LCA.


I only use it in freshwater and so far I am very pleased with the coating. One of the cheapest things I did in the whole redo also.


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## russ010 (Feb 6, 2009)

I just found your post... I have a few ideas now to incorporate into my new boat.. whenever I get it. I don't know what you are doing on the carpeted sides, but from the pics it looks bare. have you thought about putting that bungee cord netting (like you can get in trunks) - it can hold small things.


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## Ouachita (Feb 6, 2009)

russ010 said:


> I just found your post... I have a few ideas now to incorporate into my new boat.. whenever I get it. I don't know what you are doing on the carpeted sides, but from the pics it looks bare. have you thought about putting that bungee cord netting (like you can get in trunks) - it can hold small things.


I need to take some pictures of my completed boat to finish off this thread. I have been doing small stuff to the boat over the winter. I got it to a fish-able point and lived with the unfinished details. The side boards I put in were to finish off the sides, cover exposed wiring and to fill the small gap between the floor boards and the sides to keep stuff from falling under there. The cargo netting is a great idea. I will have to keep my eyes open for something that will fit that space.


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## pescatore (Jul 31, 2009)

It looks great !!

What did you use to screw the seat pedestal to the plywood? did you screwed it down through the plywood into the underneath wood frame ribs?


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## Ouachita (Jul 31, 2009)

pescatore said:


> It looks great !!
> 
> What did you use to screw the seat pedestal to the plywood? did you screwed it down through the plywood into the underneath wood frame ribs?


Thanks. I have really enjoyed the boat since I did the build on it. I used 2-1/2"(I think) stainless screws that went directly into the framing. The framing was setup so that the pedestal bases had all six screws going into them. They are rock solid.


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