# advise on a switch box/control panal.



## KillerJ (May 6, 2015)

I'm in the process of restoring my 1984 14' Mirrocraft Deep Fisherman II. It is still completely functional, I just want it to look nice as well. Concerning the electrical system: I use one 12 volt marine battery to power my trolling motor. I intend on using the same battery to run lights, a fish finder, a 12 volt car type outlet, and a bilge pump if necessary. I plan on building and installing a under deck wiring harness. I would like to build or buy a fused switch box for the various electrical components and mount it near the drivers seat. Does anybody have advice on the construction of such a switch box, or where to purchase a pre-built unit? Or, am I making things more complicated than necessary? My main reason for wanting the switch box is to only have two wires running to my battery in order to facilitate easy removal for charging. I want to keep the boats wiring as simple and uncluttered as possible.


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## Skiffing (May 7, 2015)

You can get used switch / fused panels on ebay.

There's a used Sea Choice 6 gang on now for $10.


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## BigTerp (May 8, 2015)

I used this one on my boat.

https://www.amazon.com/SeaSense-Marine-Way-Switch-Panel/dp/B003E24MKA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1431087592&sr=8-1&keywords=marine+switch+panel

Thought that would be plenty. It controls my nav lights, anchor lights, interior lights, stereo and main bilge pump. But I've also added 2 more switches independently because I ran out of room on my panel. One for my driving lights and another for a backup/emergency bilge pump. I'd suggest you get one with at least one or two more switches than you think you'll need.


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## KillerJ (May 8, 2015)

thanks!


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## bamabill (May 26, 2015)

Big T,
I noticed in the reviews for that panel that each switch didn't have a dedicated fuse. They said one 15A per two switches. I assume it was engineered correctly and its ok?


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## BigTerp (May 26, 2015)

bamabill said:


> Big T,
> I noticed in the reviews for that panel that each switch didn't have a dedicated fuse. They said one 15A per two switches. I assume it was engineered correctly and its ok?



Yes, that is correct. I matched my fuses for what was on each two switches that were fused together. Most of the fuses I swapped out to match what accessories were being fused. For instance, I have my nav lights and stern light on the same fuse. They are both LED and draw less than 1 amp each. So I replaced the 15 amp fuse with a 3 amp fuse. I'd also suggest using the same AGC type fuses, when possible, for other things on your boat. That way you don't have to carry so many different types and amp ratings of fuses on the boat with you.


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## ProduceMan (Jun 28, 2015)

This panel is pricey, but an all in one.https://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue-sea-systems--weatherdeck-waterproof-panel-four-position--6841092 . I'm putting it in one of these https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-8-in-x-4-in-Junction-Box-E989N-CAR/100404099?MERCH=REC-_-NavPLPHorizontal1_rr-_-NA-_-100404099-_-N. Plenty of room for the panel plus 2 12v plugs on the face, this bus bar inside. https://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue-sea-systems--dualbus-plus-150a--P009_273_005_501


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Jun 29, 2015)

I made a switch box out of a plastic exterior electrical box and cover.


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