# replacing a rtted transom in a v-hull aluminum boat?



## Scotto53 (Mar 23, 2012)

How difficult is it? Anyone have some pictures of it being done? Thanks.


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## Jdholmes (Mar 23, 2012)

Depends on the boat. Pictures help.

Check out the build threads, most of us have done them.


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## sixgun86 (Mar 23, 2012)

It isn't difficult. Use stainless hardware and 3m 5200 to seal hardware holes when re-install. Pics below are simple jobs that have a limited lifetime. A lot of guys suggest oak ply with a spar urethane coating that should last the duration of the hull. 


Awaiting the pretty transom to show it's self. [-o<


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## Jdholmes (Mar 23, 2012)

FYI - this is mine. I used the method discussed above - laminate layers of oak plywood and applied four coats of spar urethane, used stainless steel bolts, locknuts, and washers to attach to hull. Applied 3m 5200 to the threads and the back side of the washers.


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## Ringo Steele (Mar 23, 2012)

I don't have any pictures of mine in progress. The wood in mine was mostly shreds and sawdust! Here's the final product though...exterior grade, 3/4" laminated to get to 1.5" total thickness, glued together with Titebond III waterproof glue, and sealed with West Systems 105 epoxy with a spar urethane top coat for UV protection of the epoxy. All stainless steel bolts washers, and Nylock nuts.


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## jigngrub (Mar 23, 2012)

If your boat is a console (remote) steer with a splashwell it may be more difficult than the transoms shown in the pics.

Some of the Starcrafts with splashwell can be a real PITA with having to cut transom gusset welds to be able to remove the wood.

Post a pic of your transom so we can see what you have.


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## kfa4303 (Mar 23, 2012)

yup. The job is only as hard as getting the old one out. There are only a few rules really. 1.) Never use Pressure Treated lumber. The preservatives in it will cause pitting in your hull. Instead use high quality, exterior grade plywood. 2.) Seal wood with epoxy, resin and fiberglass, or urethane. 3.) Mount with Stainless Steel hardware dipped in 3M 5200 marine caulk, use aluminum replacement rivets when needed. That's really about it. The rest is up to time, money and imagination. Good luck. Keep us posted. We love pics.


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## Clinton78 (Mar 28, 2012)

Let me explain the following pics in the next reply if it works this way. I'm losing my mind trying to get this to work. Everytime I try something, it takes me back to the login page.


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## Clinton78 (Mar 28, 2012)

Okay...this is just not working well. 

What I'd like to add to this thread are a few pics of my transom wood that I removed last night. Everytime I try to attach a file, or click Post-reply, I'm taken back to the login page, and then when I come back, my stuff is gone. Anyone know what's going on here? 

Anyway, I am a 1st time poster (2nd time now I guess). I recently purchased a 1983 Landau 1670 (1648) FP. Anyone know what FP means? 

I want to raise the transom up to 20" so I took it apart last night. I'm glad I did. The inner ply was pretty rotten. It fell apart after removal. I just used a cheap angle grinder to cut off the corner pieces and the rivets, which I then pounded out with a hammer and punch. I even cut off the top cap of the transom, planning to have someone weld on the additional 5 inches at a later date. I think I'm going to need taller knee braces as well...or figure out a way to extend the ones I have. I'd like to have new fabricated though. I think I'm going to give rivet bucking a try as well vs. ss nuts and bolts. I may find out that I have to rivet skill so who knows. 

I've got a couple pics of this that I'll keep trying to post. I even made a Sketchup drawing of the current transom vs. the one I want. 

I'm looking forward to working on this project and utilizing the good members of this site to help along the way. You guys already have actually.


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## Kochy (Mar 28, 2012)

Clinton78 said:


> Okay...this is just not working well.
> 
> What I'd like to add to this thread are a few pics of my transom wood that I removed last night. Everytime I try to attach a file, or click Post-reply, I'm taken back to the login page, and then when I come back, my stuff is gone. Anyone know what's going on here?
> 
> ...




Make a thread on it in the Conversion forum, I'd like to see this when it's done.


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## OuatchitaNick (Aug 18, 2019)

Ringo Steele said:


> I don't have any pictures of mine in progress. The wood in mine was mostly shreds and sawdust! Here's the final product though...exterior grade, 3/4" laminated to get to 1.5" total thickness, glued together with Titebond III waterproof glue, and sealed with West Systems 105 epoxy with a spar urethane top coat for UV protection of the epoxy. All stainless steel bolts washers, and Nylock nuts.


I know this is old picture but I have the same boat and am considering replacing the transom board. When you did yours did you have to remove the "knee brace" to install the new board? If so how did you reattach the brace to the bottom of the hill. I know I'm going to have to trim the aluminum away as you did. Thanks in advance

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk


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## surfman (Aug 19, 2019)

Everyone seems to be talking about replacing the wood but that's not what I got from the title, are you referring to replacing the aluminum transom that is riveted on? If so, I would think that is rather difficult.

Am I missing something in the translation?


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## OuatchitaNick (Aug 19, 2019)

surfman said:


> Everyone seems to be talking about replacing the wood but that's not what I got from the title, are you referring to replacing the aluminum transom that is riveted on? If so, I would think that is rather difficult.
> 
> Am I missing something in the translation?


The aluminum that you see in my picture is just covering the wood that is underneath it, there are bolts going through the aluminum from the outside of the boat through wood then through the aluminum you see on the inside 

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk


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## BigTerp (Aug 19, 2019)

I have a different boat, but found it very difficult to even remove the old transom without removing both of my knee braces. They were reattached with stainless bolts and nyloc nuts through the transom and then solid rivets through the hull (same as factory). I'd imagine most small tins use solid rivets for the knee brace(s) through the bottom of the hull.


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## DaleH (Aug 19, 2019)

Be AWARE all tin should be primed & painted before any application of 3M 5200 or other ‘goop’. Otherwise the goop will attack unprepped tin.

For longest life, add nylon washers under the SS bolt heads & washers where they bear up against the tin, otherwise the tin will corrode due to galvanic corrosion. In a saltwater boat, also coat the bolt threads w/ marine grease well, or put piece of adhesive-lined heatshrink on it.


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## surfman (Aug 19, 2019)

I think I see where I misunderstood, I was reading rtted as riveted but he means rotted. My bad.


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