# 1860 alumacraft



## chevyrulz (Aug 5, 2016)

sold my 1546 and my flats boat to fund the new Jon Yacht, a 2017 Alumacraft MV1860AW :mrgreen: 






custom order rigged with their smaller 1756 aluminum center console instead of the ridiculously too big polymer console standard on the 18' made for lots of extra floor space =D> 

Here's Day 1 before GPS, transducer, cup holders, & cleats. The wiring was a mess from the factory as well, I had just stuck down the 1st piece of turf:








































Bob's MJ5 jack plate $280 to my door in 2 days, great guys at https://www.bobsmachineshop.com !

be sure to leave ALL the jack plate bolts loose when hanging the motor or the holes won't line up. cherry picker made the motor hanging job nice & easy. another tip, don't use stainless nyloc nuts, use regular stainless nuts & 2 of them on each bolt, the 2nd nut is the locking nut to keep the 1st from backing off. When I first hung the motor I used nylocs & when I went to take them out they wouldn't come, i had to use a breaker bar & snap off the bolts! 










WalMart B size cover for 17-19' boats fits well, & only cost $60:





found a nearly new 2004 Yamaha 60hp 2 stroke, compression test revealed 126psi on each cylinder :lol: 

13x17p stiletto prop on the engine was too much, could only hit 5100 on the tach, but found a 13.25x15p which turns proper WOT RPMS around 5500 \/ 

West Marine had the Simrad Go7 on blowout for $550, this is typically a $1k+ sonar/chartplotter & i was about to spend $500 on a non touch screen 5", but saw the deal & scooped it up, the downscan is unbelievable at mapping structure, it really is photographic. i love the interface too, pinch to zoom just like a smart phone. local boat shop had a scrap piece of starboard laying around, made for a nice transducer mount, used black silicone for the install. amazon stick-on rubber cable holders keep the wire tidy:





just like my last rig, i used the gray Blacktip Jetsports flooring off amazon for $60/sheet, 4 sheets total covered floor & decks





trick i learned on this build is to cut the overall shape out, & then press down on any cutouts, like this anchor light socket, & it will stamp the shape you cutout which you can trace with the razor. i then beveled the edge to look cleaner with a dremel sanding wheel, it also worked well for the seat post mount on the front deck





I used the leftover black tubing from the throttle/shift/fuel lines to clean up the factory wiring job:





i will say the welding quality on this 1860 is night & day from the 1546, the welds are absolutely perfect everywhere. 

however, their electrical team leaves *MUCH* to be desired. they used wal-mart non-heat shrink, *plastic non-waterproof butt connectors for the splice on the bilge! seriously?!* 

same horrible plastic non-waterproof butt connectors, ring connectors, spade connectors, etc. on EVERY electrical connection under the dash too ](*,) so I am going through with liquid electrical tape finishing their half-witted wiring job (knew i should've done it myself! lol)

Here's the Simrad installed before cup holders, notice the wiring mess:





& here's the boat after Simrad, cup holders, turf, & 4 cleats:





















36.7mph as top speed so far

Still to come red LED under gunwale lighting, rod holders, leaning post, & some tunes...


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## timsmcm (Aug 5, 2016)

Very nice indeed. Clean, simple, my kinda boat.


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## chevyrulz (Aug 5, 2016)

preciate it


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## riverrat717 (Aug 5, 2016)

Nice, clean build! Good call on the console.


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## DaleH (Aug 5, 2016)

*Impressive!* Congrats to you, nicely rigged and all.

LOVE the tip on scoring around the perimeter of that foam flooring material - thanks =D> !

Remain stunned ... :roll: at their factory wiring of a bilge pump ...


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## wmk0002 (Aug 5, 2016)

Sweeeet boat!

How fast does that motor/prop push it at 5500 rpms?


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## chevyrulz (Aug 5, 2016)

thanks y'all



wmk0002 said:


> How fast does that motor/prop push it at 5500 rpms?


36-37mph with me, 1 passenger, 18 gallons of fuel, & a single group 24 battery

red LED under-gunwale lighting for $25 on Amazon (two 16' rolls):
HitLights 3528





50' roll of 16/2 marine wire for $23 also on Amazon:





for tunes, I'm looking at 4 Wetsounds 6.5" speakers powered a Kenwood amp:

KAC-M1824BT





SW-65i





will hide amp under the shelf under the console, & mount the control to the dash. This allows Pandora to stream from a phone inside adry box, but still change song & adjust volume without pulling phone out.


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## ADIBOO (Aug 5, 2016)

Nice and simple! That's an impressive speed your putting down.


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## Fordracing2105 (Aug 7, 2016)

Nice boat. It really stinks that a boat rigger would do wiring like that. But it's a nice little job for u to fix and know it's done right. 

I think I have the same led lighting u got. I just got mine the other day and couldn't wait to see what it look like. So I taped it in and wired it to a battery.






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## Fordracing2105 (Aug 7, 2016)

It's very bright. You will be happy with it. 


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## chevyrulz (Aug 8, 2016)

thx for the pic of the lights



ADIBOO said:


> Nice and simple! That's an impressive speed your putting down.


feels slow compared to the 44mph my flats boat was doing tho! i like drafting only 4" or i'd have gone with more HP


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## RiverBottomOutdoors (Aug 8, 2016)

Good install job on the turf. Nice fishing boat....don't ruin it by putting a noise making radio in it. ;-)


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## chevyrulz (Aug 10, 2016)

while i fish & hunt, i also enjoy camping & relaxing in the boat too which is why i definitely will be installing a sound system. it will be geared toward battery life as opposed to rocking the whole sandbar though, as long as i can hear it while i'm running, i'll be happy. i had a small amp on 2 6x9s in my flats boat & it would play all day without killing the battery, going to replicate this setup in the jon yacht except with slightly more amp & 2 extra speakers 

yesterday I got the wire run for the red LED courtesy lights being installed under the gunwale. i just ran it from the console into the bilge, & then removed the trolling motor panel, & ran my fish tape from there into the bilge & pulled the wire up into the bow, I'll show y'all the finished product soon, lights should be here today & I'll get 'em in this week

i made the best $30 investment of my boating career the other day at wal-mart:





literally the most comfortable boat seat ever, can't want to lounge in it with my 12ga during duck season :mrgreen:


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## DaleH (Aug 10, 2016)

chevyrulz said:


> i made the best $30 investment of my boating career the other day at wal-mart:


I hear you there! *AWESOME seats!* I had 2 of them that I'd keep out in my back cockpit when I was tuna fishing, in *bright yellow* color to boot! My buddy had them in fluorescent orange, which was cool too. 

Always ended up pulling back to the dock with at least one of my crew fast asleep in them! Now if only I had a place to store them on my 16 footer, LOL :lol:


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## onthewater102 (Aug 10, 2016)

LOL my kids have those on our back porch for watching TV...most comfortable chair EVER!

The foam pellets in them get crushed down pretty quick - but you can order more from Walmart to refill the chair with as it gets flattened out.


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## chevyrulz (Aug 11, 2016)

hitlights are awesome, can't believe how much less they cost than the same product on superbrightleds.com & other websites. i used the 16/2 tinned marine duplex wire for the install, & it cost more than the lights! lol

i ran the main wire for these LEDs from the center console into the bilge, then from the bilge up into the bow, removed the trolling motor panel for access to the bow to get to the gunwales, & ran the main wire to the starboard side, then a jumper wire to the port side. i then spliced the main wire going to that starboard side into the existing courtesy light circuit so that when the existing courtesy light switch is hit, the red under gunwale lights come on as well:


























it's just enough light to see what your doing in the dark, not trip & fall, figure out what decoy you have in hand, tie on a new hook, etc. without blinding you.

I also had the fabricator come yesterday to render the custom leaning post design. It's going to be sick! powder coated black, removable & stowable backrest, storage under seat, 4-6 rocket launchers, going with 33" width & 13" off the bench height, hopefully he can find the old school or bottomlands fabric, but if not going to use tan...stay tuned!


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## Fire1386 (Aug 11, 2016)

Like the red, doesn't look like it would cause the night blindness that some do...


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## Fordracing2105 (Aug 11, 2016)

Nice I like it. Does your boat have the wider rail so u can tuck your lights under? Yours don't seam to shine up like mine do. 


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## chevyrulz (Aug 12, 2016)

Fordracing2105 said:


> Does your boat have the wider rail so u can tuck your lights under?


yea


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## Fordracing2105 (Aug 12, 2016)

chevyrulz said:


> Fordracing2105 said:
> 
> 
> > Does your boat have the wider rail so u can tuck your lights under?
> ...



I haven't had mine on the water yet but I think mine is going to be to bright. My boat was suppose to be order with a wider heavy rail but somewhere along the line it go screwed up. I might have to look for a dimmer. 

Nice work again


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## chevyrulz (Aug 18, 2016)

yea for a round rail, it may be worth considering courtesy lights firing forward from the rear of the boat, this would promote night vision

i have left mine on while running & i can still see just fine, that is why i went with red...it is nice to have more light than what got tying a knot though, i am considering running another strip of white next to the red on a separate circuit so i can activate the white when night vision isn't a consideration 

well the only way to get old school or bottomlands is in a twill fabric that would hold water, noone sells a marine vinyl in those patterns i can find, so i went with the mossy oak shadowgrass pattern in a marine vinyl, it's the bottomlands pattern but with grass blades on it too:


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## chevyrulz (Sep 19, 2016)

leaning post success!

before:





during:





this is a good view of the "flush mount" foot rest, typically they mount the foot rest tabs to where they stick out, but flush is the trick for not banging your shins:










after:


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## Catch Release Repeat (Sep 19, 2016)

Aannnddddddd I'm drooling 


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## Jrob238 (Sep 19, 2016)

Nice! Makes me want to sell my 12 footer lol

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## chevyrulz (Sep 21, 2016)

haha thanks y'all, only other mods so far are the nav/anchor lights, rod holders, & the cleats (will edit this post with pics soon). 

also, again with Alumacraft's INCOMPETENT WIRING! the anchor light, horn, and baitwell pump already quit. thankfully the dealer fixed these issues at no charge to me, dropped it off at noon, picked it up at 5, can't beat that! what stinks, is i know other systems will fail because they used interior grade electrical fittings on the entire wiring system (idiots) /rant over

NAV/ANCHOR LIGHTS
the factory had these bogus plug in style pole lights both for the 360 white anchor light out back & the red/green nav lights up front. i tossed all that in the garbage, & use the starboard side pole holder mounts that held these light poles to now hold my home-made anchor pin. now i have hardwired lights, flip the switch, lights come on, no more having to deploy/stow the stupid light poles or deal with inevitable failure of the pole/socket style lights, hurray!





for the nav light, i put the Attwood LED nav on the bow (same part i used my 1546), except when i went to pull the chrome cover to paint it tan, i realized the thing looks fine without the cover, under the cover is all black & waterproof so i just tossed the chrome cover in the garbage & called it good. :mrgreen: 





for the anchor light, i went with the MaxItOutLEDs "Extreme Nav Light", it's a little shorter than factory, but it mounts on a Ram ball mount, & it's a solid fiberglass rod with sealed LEDs, rumor has it, it's the most reliable/durable nav light on the market & while it looks "home-made" it seems robust, plus it's made in the USA & recommended by GatorTrax boats.


CLEATS




same plastic 6" cleats as my 1546, but i used the factory T-track to mount them without drilling holes in the boat. at first i had used carriage bolts which i cut with my angle grinder to slide in the T-rail, but those were mounted with wingnuts which stuck out & made cleating more of a chore, so i ordered these stainless "extrusion nuts" & they work like a charm for flush mount bolting to the t-rail for cleats! (after some finessing with bolt cutters for fitment :mrgreen, in retrospect, i think i could have ordered the square ones, & in a slightly larger diameter

ROD HOLDERS




grabbed these Attwood rod holders from Walmart. the package says to mount them 30" apart, but that seems wrong, they work fine the way i have them mounted which is more like 60" apart. i mounted them high so the fly rod would fit over the decks, and so the bottom rod is not touching the floor. used some leftover turf as a pad for the reels. it will hold 6, but it fits 4 way better. i have another pair of these, and I am considering getting some golf tubes & mounting the other 2 holders at the recommended 30" on the same side as these 2 so rods actual stow in rod tubes going into the front & rear decks, but that will be a chore so probably not on the menu any time soon


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## chevyrulz (Oct 13, 2016)

didn't forget the pics, just busy, hurricane & all, also, the boat now has a wetsounds 4 speaker system with a 400 watt amp & bluetooth :mrgreen: stay tuned...


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## RiverBottomOutdoors (Oct 13, 2016)

That is the one fine leaning post.


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## wmk0002 (Oct 14, 2016)

I've been thinking about getting that anchor light myself. Let us know how you like it after you have had the chance to use it a few times.


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## chevyrulz (Oct 14, 2016)

thanks, & yes the guy who made the leaning post is the MAN! as far as the anchor light, i have had it out 10 or so trips, & i love it. i keep it folded down during the day & flip it up @ Night, it's very bright, & pretty much indestructible


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## chevyrulz (Oct 26, 2016)

here's the sound system:






all 4 speakers are Wet Sounds 6.5" :





the switch under the red horn button is the on/off for the amp, as soon as i flip it on, it connects to my phone & the music automatically starts playing:










this is the bluetooth antenna & controller, can change song or volume from this or from the phone, which is nice if it's raining & my phone is locked up in a dry box:










mounted the amp to the underside of the shelf inside the center console, drip loop in the wiring is to help it shed water:





& grab bar i wrapped with paracord:


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## chevyrulz (Nov 2, 2016)

just picked up the pipe, fencing, & fittings to build the duckblind frame...update to come


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## Ohenry (Nov 8, 2016)

Very nice build!


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## Josh_AllRAW (Nov 12, 2016)

Love your build, I'm getting an 18x60 made by a local company late winter early spring!


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## chevyrulz (Nov 28, 2016)

here's the blind:



















the blind is supported on each side by one 2x4. i drilled a 7/8 hole & cut an 8' 2x4 in half across that hole, so that 1 end of each 2x4 support leg has a rounded notch for the blind frame to sit on. I then chopped another little bit off the flat end of each 2x4 til the height was right at the water line with my 4' high landscape fencing. the end result is a notch in the 2x4 for the blind frame to sit on, it's plenty sturdy to run down the river with the blind up. i propped it up temporarily this way to hang the grass, but it was so strong, i opted to use it for the full time support & it has worked great after a week of hunting every morning. super quick to deploy/stow the blind.

the conduit is 3/4" EMT (electrical aisle @ Lowes), and I sleeved the long sections with 1/2" EMT inside for strength, but also because EMT only comes in 10' lengths & i needed longer. i bent my 4 curved sections, then the curve toward the bow to match the contour of the boat. initially, i left the frame as a slip fit, so the 1/2" & 3/4" emt were not attached to each other, making quick disassembly of the blind, but it proved to be less sturdy that way, the joint flexed a lot so i pop riveted them together for strength.

the grass material is "raffia" & it's the Avery Killerweed brand. the Avery description says 1 box covers an 18' boat. YEA RIGHT! i used 5-6 boxes... attaching the raffia is way more tedious than fast grass, but i like the end result & i think it is more durable. it's also way less snaggy than the fast grass when i am driving up narrow creeks with brush sticking out. plus everyone uses fast grass so i like that it looks a little different than the rest of the boats around.

the bow & stern are covered by old camo netting from the army/navy store. i ziptied some raffia to those front/rear flaps as well so it would blend better with the rest of the blind. it's really quick to cover & uncover the boat. i'm pleased

here you can see the support system for this scissor style blind is a highly advanced 2x4 just sitting there :mrgreen: 





i was very surprised with the blind support being just the one 2x4 on each side, but it holds up great even running down the river at 30mph with the blind up over choppy water. obviously in big chop or if a huge wake is coming i'll lay it down, but if i am just going to chase a cripple, or a decoy caught in the current, the blind stays up.

the cross bar in the rear is attached to the t-rail using extrusion nuts just like the cleats & bimini hardware for the fittings, the bimini hardware is 7/8" but the EMT is 7/8 inner diameter, so they have to be enlarged slightly (a millimeter or 2) with a dremel to fit the larger outer diameter of the EMT. 





on my 1546 blind, I used bimini fittings here for the scissor actuation, but they broke really quick, so this time i just drilled & thru-bolted, cost way less & far more durable. 





takes a good 20 minutes to roll it up this well, but this is how i roll it up before i go fishing. between duck hunts though, i just lower the blind & let the frame sandwich the grass, plenty good for highway travel, but that method eats up some interior room & deck space so that is why i roll it up all nice & tight with bungees before fishing:





the rocket launcher rod holders actually hold a shotgun real nice, had a few people snapping pictures the other day when we had 2 guns like that (open chambers, empty mag tubes of course)...curious how the game warden will feel about it, ain't seen him yet! lol


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## derekdiruz (Nov 28, 2016)

As an avid duck hunter, who has built my boats with this as a primary purpose, I always love seeing blind ideas. Thanks for posting, it looks like it will do well to kill birds! Good luck!


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## chevyrulz (Nov 28, 2016)

thanks, only shot a couple wood ducks & a few mergansers during opening week. missed plenty more, including a group of gadwall. season re-opens 12/10 & I am doing a lottery hunt in flooded timber that day so we should get on em there, hopefully there's more birds around for 2nd season! :mrgreen:


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## chevyrulz (Dec 7, 2016)

already growing tired of holding the spotlight & thinking integrated LED driving light like i did on the 1546...on that rig, i had used the 9" Kohree dual stack, but for this 1860, their 15" dual stack would fit:






BUT, i am thinking it would be way better, if the MAN who welded the leaning post would make some brackets to mount the lights below the deck, that way it's not in the way of feet stepping on/off the bow, or fly line on the deck...below deck also promotes night vision as the above deck does hit some of the nose which kills night vision slightly...so maybe 2 of these dual row spot lights firing forward to illuminate the channel:






& 2 of these combo flood/spot lights firing left/right to illuminate the river banks:






thoughts, pictures, suggestions welcomed...i am envisioning something like the war eagle / G3 setup they call a "duck bill" with light bracket welded onto the boat & a cage in front of it to protect the light


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## LeftCoastAngler (Dec 18, 2016)

Awesome boat bro!


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## LeftCoastAngler (Dec 18, 2016)

How's the floor drain in that thing? Dump into the transom area?


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## chevyrulz (Dec 19, 2016)

Thanks!


LeftCoastAngler said:


> How's the floor drain in that thing? Dump into the transom area?


yep, there's 2 semi-circular cutouts in the rear bench on the floor facing the center console under the leaning post that let water from the cockpit flow under the deck into the bilge area by the transom where the bilge pump is mounted:


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## mrdrh99 (Dec 20, 2016)

Dude.... Very very nice.... Love the Bluetooth stereo setup


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## chevyrulz (Dec 21, 2016)

thank you, the XS-65i Wetsounds speakers with Kenwood KAC-M1824BT amp work great. It's pushing 45w RMS per channel @ 4ohms & the speakers are rated for 60w RMS each @ 4ohms. I can hear music well even at 35mph. It has good bass for a system without a subwoofer. I like the controller that comes with the amp, it lets me pause, pair a new device, skip songs, & adjust volume. The last bluetooth stereo I did had no controller like that so the only choice for those tasks was the phone. It's neat having both options with this Kenwood setup.

i broke the transducer mount the other day in my wood duck creek, tons of trees down from the hurricane, not even sure when i snapped it. i emailed Simrad & hope they can help me figure out where to buy one, i think this is what i need, but it's $40 & I'm not 100% sure:

https://www.thegpsstore.com/Lowrance-Transom-Mount-Bracket-for-HDI-and-DSI-Transducers-P4130.aspx


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## LeftCoastAngler (Dec 27, 2016)

VeryKewl. 
BassProShopsTampas like 10min from my house.... I was up there this past weekend checkin out their Tracker1860cc...... It only had a 40 on it tho, Is want at least a 60


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## LeftCoastAngler (Dec 27, 2016)

That leanin post drives me nutz. I gotta have one too...


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## chevyrulz (Dec 28, 2016)

NICE, Steve @ Simrad tech support is sending me a new transducer bracket free of charge! =D> found it on Amazon too for $25 (Lowrance part# 000-10262-001)

yea LeftCoast, 40 is waaay under powered. this hull definitely begs for 90+, but that costs draft & i need to get shallow when it comes to chasing redfish in the grass, or going up the back creeks for redfish/ducks. right now she can float in 6" or less depending on the load, i have dragged the boat down a creek that only had 3-4" of water. i can motor in ~10" of water. that is the only reason i don't have a 115 on her.

may end up hot rodding the 60 here soon, i already got the gasket kit & the torque wrench so i can shave the head to up the compression slightly. if i also open up the exhaust & re-jet, i can get around 75hp out of it without hurting reliability & be able to still run on 87 octane pump gas.


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## chevyrulz (Jan 9, 2017)

simrad repair complete, got the transducer mounted back up. also, took the boat to the welder to figure out the lighting setup, decided to fabricate some expanded metal cages for the lights using the same mesh metal material like is found on War Eagle & G3 light setups, big bbq pits, etc. will then weld some mounts onto the hull around the bow eye for the lights, 2 spotlights firing forward for channel markers, 2 flood/spot lights firing port/starboard for river banks, the cages will allow the lights to be protected from dock collisions yet still flip down for gigging, as well as be easily cleaned/removed when pluff mud inevitably cakes them up. 

will post pictures once completed, i'm debating on wiring in these LED bars to the courtesy light circuit instead of running a new wire/switch for them, what do y'all think about running 2 16' LED strips & 4 18w LED bars off a 16ga wire? i would think it'll be fine, but i am no electrician or arithmetician haha


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## chevyrulz (Apr 20, 2017)

well no gigging/driving lights yet, spring makes it tough to get welding done as it's the boat buying season therefore the boat building season so my boy is all tied up making real money from his OEM leaning post contracts, he'll get to me eventually & it will be well worth the wait, the leaning post was!

i put some Chris Carson reeds in the 60 the other week, took about 1.5hrs taking my time, cleaning as i disassembled, very easy to do, no special tools or anything, the part that sucked were the 18 tiny little phillips screws holding each of the 6 reeds & of course the 18th one stripped out on me, needle nose saved the day, fired right up on reassembly. smoothed out idle & helped low end torque a bit, allegedly improves fuel mileage from better atomization but the thing sips gas already so doubtul i'll notice a meaningful change there


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## Kingbryce (Apr 25, 2017)

Legit


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## chevyrulz (Jun 26, 2017)

still no progress with LED lighting, have been using a generator & clamps with LED & halogen shop lights for flounder gigging. 

picked up a 9' umbrella at Lowe's yesterday for $70 on sale, it shades the console all the way back past the engine, super nice for the dog & for me on these hot summer days:


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## jtf (Jul 14, 2017)

Went to look at a 1756 yesterday, dealer sold it recently and doesn't sell Alumacraft now. So I'll have to drive 200+ miles round trip to find another dealer.

Great job on the upgrades, wanted to ask about the inside paint. Guessing there wasn't a spray in liner? Think I'd like that matting better as long as it stayed cool in summer. Second, would you suggest deleting the wiring and getting it done aftermarket? 

The boat I'm interested is in a tunnel/tiller 1756 bare bones.

Thanks


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## chevyrulz (Aug 1, 2017)

jtf said:


> Guessing there wasn't a spray in liner? Think I'd like that matting better as long as it stayed cool in summer.


no sprayed on liner in mine, it adds weight. The turf flooring is lighter, grips better, more comfortable, & stays cooler in the summer. The 2 downsides compared to sprayed on liner is that the turf is a little harder to clean & a little more delicate. it's also cheaper & not that hard to replace though.



jtf said:


> would you suggest deleting the wiring and getting it done aftermarket?


If you got the money, 100% yes. gonna be about half the cost to let the factory do it though.


well that $70 umbrella is on the bottom of the river, good gust bent the pole, it sheared off & sank before i could whip around & get back to it. will probably buy another & cut the pole shorter & reinforce the inside of it.

got my lights installed finally, might see if the welder can build a cage for it at a later date, but loving the setup. horn quit working so tossed the switch in the garbage since i have a whistle & put the LED driving lights switch where the horn switch used to be

i just joined the red/black for the 3 lights so all are on at once, used 16 gauge tinned marine wire for the run from the lights to the battery & console, these are about 2/3 the wattage of my 1546's LED setup yet work better because of the way they're aimed. the spotlight firing forward is 6.5" wide & 36 watts, the 2 spreader lights firing sideways are 24 watts each & the beams are combo so every other bulb goes flood/spot/flood/spot/etc. & they do a great job lighting up the river banks. it's also less blinding than the 108w setup on my last rig when you're in tight back creeks, but it still throws way out there to light up channel markers in the distance:


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## chevyrulz (Aug 10, 2017)

put a 16p stiletto 4 blade prop on her, $200 off craigslist (better than $400 new!)

no change in top speed or WOT RPMs from the 3 blade 15p stiletto, but now i can shred through narrow creeks at speed with plenty of grip, the 3 blade cavitated way too much to make sharp turns, not the case with the 4 blade she drives like she's on rails






& some pics from a recent lake trip:


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