# Should I bend the tongue straight? PIC ADDED 4-30



## ober51 (Apr 17, 2010)

I bought the trailer, seems to ride fine, I am leaning on just leaving it. I realize the tires will wear a bit differently, but I think this will get me by for a couple years?

Any advice on taking off rusty bolts? I am thinking of going to Harbor Freight tomorrow and getting a die grinder and a cutter to take them off. I could heat them, but I figure this is easier.

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I have a line on a nice big Cox trailer. Almost everything is good (owner is replacing the seals, repacking bearings, etc.) including lights and whatnot, except I noticed that the tongue - about 2' from the coupler - is bent. It isn't that bad, it has a slight bubble and indentation, and the owner didn't even realize it. I do believe him, he's well into his 70s, a really nice guy who was forthright about everything else. He said the trailer was fine when he used it, and didn't feel anything different than any other trailer. This may be true, but I won't chance this. 

My question is, can this be bent back with some heat and without problem? Will it compromise the integrity/strength of the tongue? I imagine I can heat it, bend it back and then reinforce the sides with two pieces of steel and then bolt it through the frame (maybe even weld it to the frame). My issue would then be whether the winch post position would be where the bend is (the guy had a 17' boat and the bend is right before the post). 

If I can't bend it back with heat, can I cut it, and weld another piece? How about a swing away tongue? It wouldn't help with tongue length (and would potentially cut down on my trailer length), would it?

He is asking $500, it's a 1988, good tires, really good frame aside from this slight bend, lights, registration, etc. He said price is negotiable, I am thinking if this is a relatively easy fix, I may ask for $350 and maybe go as high as $450? 

Any/all advice appreciated.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Apr 18, 2010)

If you can cut 2" off the tongue and still use the trailer great. If you would have to cut the tongue and add some steel it's not bad if the price is right. 5' of 3x3x.125 runs $30.00 by me then add in the cost welding.


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## Pruitt1222 (Apr 18, 2010)

As for price I cant really help you there, I wouldn't worry about the dent to much. If you dont want it seen unbolt the tongue and spin it around so the bent/weaker area is under the frame, I wouldn't mess with trying to get it stright. You never said if it was 2x3 or 3x3 or 4x4, Swing tongue kits are 100-130 bucks but only come in 3x3 or 4x4 i think. The swing kits at gander are 20" long and come with chains, coupler, and hardware. I dont know about your area but here you have a minimal amount when buying steel of 50 bucks and unless they have what you need on hand you have to order a full 20 foot stick. I just bought a 2"x3"x.120"x20' and it was 78 bucks. Personally if it was me I would chop the 2 foot off of it and get a 18" hitch extension or chop it off and put a swing tongue on it but I also store my boat in a garage and thous would make my life easier.


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## ober51 (Apr 18, 2010)

My gf's uncle is in the welding union (he was on the new Giants Stadium job the last few years), so I don't think I would have to pay for welding at all, maybe just the materials (and maybe not even that if he has access to some left overs). 

I am pretty sure it is 3x3 or 4x4, it's much more heavy duty than my previous trailers. I looked at the swing away tongues, but I am worried that I would have to chop too much off the existing tongue and thus shorten the trailer too much. I think I may buy this thing and worry about it later, it seems like if I can get it for 350-400, it might be worth it.


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## ober51 (Apr 18, 2010)

No one else?


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## ober51 (Apr 30, 2010)

pic added, assistance needed for tomorrow. Ive gone long enough without my boat, I want the trailer functional tomorrow.


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## basshunter25 (Apr 30, 2010)

I don't see the new pic? I think I would try to bend it back. If its not that bad you probably wouldn't do much to the integrity bending it a little. Just my thought.


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## huntinfool (Apr 30, 2010)

Is the tounge welded to the frame or bolted? You could just buy a new tounge of your that concerned. I personally would either bend it back or cut before the bend and then make a saddle and bolt it in. Your uncle could weld 2 pieces of angle iron to fit the inside of the tounge about 16-18" long. Grind the welds and make it fit inside the tounge tight. Then drill a couple holes and bolt it in. Then get a new tounge piece and bolt it on the saddle. You could even use pins and make it a removable tounge and then fit it in the garage...if you wnated to.


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## Johnny5 (Apr 30, 2010)

Looks like my wife backed your trailer in the water for you!


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## dixie_boysles (Apr 30, 2010)

mine was like that when i bought it. Take all the stuff off where your left with nothing but the tongue. Then take a portaband saw and slice all the way through three sides AT THE BEND POINT. Leave one side in tact. Then bend back and stick weld the gap. thats what we did with mine!


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## ober51 (Apr 30, 2010)

Lots of good info here, guys, thanks.

I just took off the rusted on bunks and hardware. Sawzall with a metal blade got the job done. Really would like to use this boat sometime this year.


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## ober51 (Apr 30, 2010)

A quick glimpse at my day.

Turns out (I am a moron and didn't measure) as you see in the close up of the bolts shot, I can lower the bunks all the way to the frame, seeing as the boat fits between the fenders. So sometime this week I will adjust them and I will have the boat even lower on the trailer meaning I do not have to back as far down the ramp (high five). This will be a PITA seeing as the boat is on the trailer already, but whatever, it's worth the aggravation in order to have the boat sit lower. 

Productive day for sure. This trailer fits my boat really well, handles better, is safer, and will be easier to launch.


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## huntinfool (Apr 30, 2010)

With the bunks like they are I would have run them further forward. It looks like you have a good start. Can you take pics of the tounge where it meets the trailer frame?


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## ober51 (Apr 30, 2010)

huntinfool said:


> With the bunks like they are I would have run them further forward. It looks like you have a good start. Can you take pics of the tounge where it meets the trailer frame?



I thought about this - but the boat sits perfectly on the front roller (which gives me pause as to whether I want to lower the bunks).

I will take a pic and post it later. I need new hardware for the tilt portion - do you, or anyone, know where I can get that part?


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## rcgreat (Apr 30, 2010)

Sawzalls are the best tool ever invented. I lo ve using mine when I have a bad day at work ar the kids are rubbing me the wrong way. Of course I like my chainsaw too....lol


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## ober51 (Apr 30, 2010)

rcgreat said:


> Sawzalls are the best tool ever invented. I lo ve using mine when I have a bad day at work ar the kids are rubbing me the wrong way. Of course I like my chainsaw too....lol



Yep, threw on a metal blade and it took about 20-30 seconds to cut through each one :LOL2:


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## huntinfool (May 1, 2010)

Heck if your boat will sit down between the fenders (like mine did) I just bolted my bunks directly to the frame and I have no adjustment parts. (lighter and less headache) and then ran my bunks all the way forward and do not have the front roller at all. My bunks ar 8' and the boat sits on it perfectly.

Whenever you have time to post that pic Imight be able to help you more. Also what are the measurements of the tounge?


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