# Float Pod Install



## surfman (Jan 9, 2017)

First let me start off by saying Photobucket sucks, slow as heck and kept freezing up on me, oh well.
Started off with new pods, sanding them down and priming I decided I would paint before installing to make painting easier and then all I would need to do is touch up paint;
Pod is sanded washed and etched with Phos-Acid.



Primed;



After painting I cut the access holes;



Use rivets to help keep holes aligned while drilling;



Use straps to temporarily hold Pod in place;



Check and double check inside and out where interferences lie, like the builtup transom and such, fortunately the built up transom was about ¾” above the top of the Pod, the 2 philips screws (bolts) were used for a bottom bracket of the buildup;



I had pre-drilled the backing plates in pairs to make sure the holes would line up without any problems and numbered them to keep them together. Mark them well, inside outside and face to face. I also marked the pods to make sure I didn’t get them all mixed up. I used ¼” bolts even though the instructions called for 3/8” (way overkill) I drilled the pilot holes at 5/16” to give me a little leeway and then I went with a larger drill bit when I drilled through the transom, just in case I needed some wiggle room, good thing I did too. Used bolts to help hold plate on bottom in place since my clamp would not reach that low.






Fitted pod back onto the transom and marked holes for drilling, then drilled holes and reinstalled pods dry to verify all lines up with no issues;



Inside good;



Dry fit, yes I screwed up when drilling the backing plates and that is an extra hole I won’t use, oops;



Did not have time to take pictures of mixing up G-Flex epoxy and applying it and then installing pods and bolting them up. You need to make sure all your nuts and bolts and backing plates are all lined up and ready to go. I used 5200 on the backing plates and the epoxy to attach the pods to the boat. I also forgot to take a picture of the transom after I sanded all the paint off where the pods will mount. I only lightly sanded the inside of the transom where the inside bracket mounted though.
Pods attached;



Inside;






It was cold and glue was oozing so I used aluminum duct tape to keep it in place temporarily;



I am kind of glad I went with the epoxy instead of the 5200, the epoxy set up slow, probably due to the temperature but the 5200 started setting up while I was bolting it together, not a problem since I was only using it for the backing plates but if I had tried to use it on the large surface I think it would have been a little bit more trouble, get the slow setting stuff if you can and tape it, would be my recommendation.
Everything all set up, time to button it up;



Still need to finish up the painting and touch up I used epoxy to fill in the pop rivet holes too.


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## mbweimar (Jan 9, 2017)

That looks awesome! How come you didn't weld them on? Also what size boat are they installed on?


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## Molokai (Jan 9, 2017)

Solid work SM 8) What would you reckon is the safe working time of the 5200?


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## surfman (Jan 10, 2017)

I'm not sure about 5200 but I have noticed that it starts getting kind of lumpy pretty quickly however, it stays gooey and tacky for a pretty long time. I would experiment with a glob. Squeeze it out on a piece of card board and then spread it around. Try to see how much time you have to work with it, also I would try some different solvents for cleaning up, not sure what they recommend but, I thought mineral spirits worked but, found it not working as well as I thought it would on the 5200. That might be because of the type of MS I used, don't ever buy the water based stuff, it's worthless and the stuff I got came in a plastic jug and is milky colored. That might have been my problem. Not sure at this point.

I got the ones recommended for a 14' boat, I think they are called small, you can look them up on cabelas or beavertail web sites. they list the dimensions.

I did not want to take them somewhere and get them welded on. Honestly welding is great but, that can and does crack too. And if you get a crack in a weld you may not even know it for a long time until one day the thing falls off and the corrosion between the two surfaces could be catastrophic. Not to say that this method is bullet proof though.


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## surfman (Jan 10, 2017)

Molokai, since you are going to use the 5200 like is recommended by the pod manufacturer, would use it only as an adhesive, in other words I would try to wipe off any excess that oozes out from between the pod and the boat. From my experience 5200 has a tendency to sag and run and is not a good seam filler. I would get a different kind of caulk like BoatLife Caulk that is specifically used for seam filling and sealing. I would apply that after all the work is done and the pods are attached. I would try to remove or clean up any 5200 that comes out of the gaps. only use enough 5200 to cover the two surfaces and create the bond, You might want to get a plastic spreader, a lot will ooze out though I am sure. I hope that makes since, then I would be sure to paint over it all after it is good and cured. it probably took me a good 10 minutes to get the pod all bolted on after I applied the glue.


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## richg99 (Jan 10, 2017)

Great job. Looks (and no doubt works) very professional. I've given some light thought to doing the same thing on my 1652 G3.

As far as you comment *"First let me start off by saying Photobucket sucks"*
Instead of an outside location for your pictures like Photobucket...you can load the pics directly from your own computer by using the "add a file" option right below your original posting. 

Way faster, and no nonsense about loading someplace else, and then copying the IMG files' URLs etc. My only complaint about how it is done on this site, compared to some other sites that I am on, is that here we have to locate; and then upload ONE at a time. Another fishing site that I am on (https://www.2coolfishing.com) allows the same process, but with a half dozen slots for pix to be added. Much faster. 

I gave up on outside URLs a year or so ago and have been very happy with the new process. 

richg99


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## surfman (Jan 10, 2017)

Thanks Richg99.


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## kmfw160 (Jan 10, 2017)

That turned very well.


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## Molokai (Jan 10, 2017)

Surfman, thanks for the advice. Much appreciated.


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## Jim (Jan 12, 2017)

Freaking fantastic work! :beer:


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## buckmaster27012 (Jan 12, 2017)

got a question for people that have installed these on a boat and didnt see any need for a new topic. my boat has the drain plugs in both corners of the boat where you would put the float pods, so i d/k if i would be able to put these on. i dont have a drain plug in the middle, just two on the sides, they pull out from the inside but putting the pods on would cover over half the hole on the outside. how do yall think that would work? thanks


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## richg99 (Jan 12, 2017)

Well, you could add a center drain hole and then seal up the two side holes permanently.

Richg99


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## surfman (Jan 12, 2017)

I would take some measurements and check the clearance and then just install the pods inside the drain holes, they don't have to be flush with the sides, I don't think that would look too bad either. But you will want to make sure that they won't interfere with the motor. look at the pictures of mine, there is plenty of room on my boat to move them in 1.5".

Although my boat is a 1448 so I have a fairly wide transom. You could route the drain trough the pod but if you are going to do something like that you will need to be real careful to ensure that you get a good seal that close to the bottom of the boat and pod, maybe install a tube? This might work better if welded on.


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## surfman (Jan 16, 2017)

Okay, some final pictures, unfortunately the paint that they sell at the store doesn’t match my boat at all but it is just a fishing boat after all and the fish and ducks don’t care. I need to try a different source because there was a lighter green available at one time, some of the grass I painted is closer to the color of the boat.


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## richg99 (Jan 16, 2017)

Lookin' good!

You are right, the fish don't care. richg99


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## buckmaster27012 (Jan 16, 2017)

surfman said:


> I would take some measurements and check the clearance and then just install the pods inside the drain holes, they don't have to be flush with the sides, I don't think that would look too bad either. But you will want to make sure that they won't interfere with the motor. look at the pictures of mine, there is plenty of room on my boat to move them in 1.5".
> 
> Although my boat is a 1448 so I have a fairly wide transom. You could route the drain trough the pod but if you are going to do something like that you will need to be real careful to ensure that you get a good seal that close to the bottom of the boat and pod, maybe install a tube? This might work better if welded on.




where did you get your pods from? may be overlooking it. 
i have talked with beavertail about install in this situation and they said it was ok to raise them up about an inch off the bottom of the boat and this would clear the drain plugs. my only other issue is finding somewhere to install my depth finder. i've got to do some measuring before i decide on best route to go.


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## surfman (Jan 16, 2017)

Well that is another option but, would seem to defeat the purpose of the float pod if you raised them up. The idea is to add buoyancy and you only are going to add the amount of buoyancy equal to the water you displace. Raising them up would reduce that I would think. Maybe not by much but still would reduce it. Another option for your depth sounder is to shoot through the bottom of the boat, many people do that and there should be treads on here how it is done but basically you just glue the sounder to the bottom of the boat, you can use 4200 for that.

Mine are beavertail ordered though Cabalas.


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## richg99 (Jan 16, 2017)

Not so sure that the "shoot through" transducer is going to work well with aluminum. 

I've done it successfully with a number of fiberglass boats, and presently one of my kayaks (polyurethane) has a "shoot through" that works well. 

You do lose any water temperature accuracy with "shoot through" installations.

Move the drain to the center. 100% of all the boats I've ever owned had a single center-positioned drain.

richg99


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## surfman (Jan 16, 2017)

Might be a tunnel?
Not sure why aluminum would matter, I have heard that you can make a cup of water and set the transducer in that to try it out if not sure. use a piece of PVC and glue that to the hull temporarily fill with water set transducer in water inside PVC and run. I have never tried it but have heard it done that way. as long as there are no bubbles between the transducer and the bottom of the boat.


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## richg99 (Jan 16, 2017)

*"Might be a tunnel?"*

Well, that would certainly obviate my "center hole" suggestion. ha Ha..

richg99


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## NCGRIZ (Jan 18, 2017)

I am always impressed with someone welding their own needs. These look great and I too am thinking about them on a small refurbish I am working on.


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## marshman (Jan 19, 2017)

Where did you get those pods? I've been thinking about putting some on my boat now that I'm going to a bigger/heavier motor, and I'll be carrying more gas, and an extra battery..


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## surfman (Jan 20, 2017)

surfman said:


> Mine are beavertail ordered though Cabalas.



Molokai ordered his through Fish on Fabrications, they do custom aluminum welding.


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## buckmaster27012 (Jan 20, 2017)

yea got a tunnel so center drain is out of picture. beavertail should not hurt performance but I d/k, if i were selling I'd say the same thing. i understand lower the better for performance. i'll be doing some more reasearch the 115 hp motor weight boat down right much, i've got gas, bait tank, and 2 batteries up front but still drags on take off.


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