# 14' Mirrocraft Deep Fisherman Restoration



## DOBSONFLY (Mar 9, 2013)

New to the site, so will give you the overview:

Picked the boat up last weekend for $200. Boat only no trailer or other parts but figured for this price could afford to put some money into it. 14' Deep fisherman Mirrocraft, had some minor dents and dings. Found a trailer on Craigslist for larger 16-18' boat and planning to modify it as needed. Got new tires and wheels under it and a nice spare. In the "hull" thing for around $500 now (pun intended)

The plan is a simple restoration overall with some "mild" mods or additions in time:
- Repair the necessities (transom board, minor dents knocked back out, weld up small holes left from emblems, prep, paint, repair/rebuild seats, add new padded seats)
- Clean up trailer, install new wiring (had some bugs only right side works) plan to just get new maybe some LED, got new rubber and wheels already. 
- Have a donated 7.5-10 HP motor that runs but have yet to get it from some family. Want a trolling motor in time.
- Possibilities: bow fishing area, bi-mini? recommendations??? likes dislikes???, lights for night? dont know how much I plan to fish at night right now (from the boat anyway, I fish a lot from the bank at night as it is).

Anyway any recommendations suggestions or constructive criticism is appreciated. This is my first decent sized boat, I also have 1960s era 12 foot flat bottom.


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## rickybobbybend (Mar 9, 2013)

Hey Dobsonfly, welcome aboard. You have a nice hull to work with. I would say first you should complete the registration process then check the hull for leaks. There are lots of Mirrocraft owners who are members, so I am sure they will be eager to help with any questions.
If you search "Mirrocraft" you will get LOTS of ideas. We're glad you are here.
Rick


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## Stefan (Mar 9, 2013)

Hey welcome to Tinboats,

You have a great hull to work with and a solid trailer. You can do so much with what you have. Be sure to explore this site lots and to stare at your boat for many hours and you will figure out exactly what you want.

If you're having any trouble with ideas or construction there are many people here who want to help. 

Keep us posted with your progress. Looking forward to seeing pics


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## DOBSONFLY (Mar 9, 2013)

Yup already have been surfing tons before joining up and this site I feel has already proved to be invaluable. As I find some good ideas I save off the img or bookmark the page. I found that someone had posted an old 1974 Mirrocraft brochure and that was too cool, saved it of course.


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## RedfireSVT (Mar 10, 2013)

good luck on the build


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## DOBSONFLY (Mar 10, 2013)

Family donated to the cause with a Mercury Merc 60 - 6 HP motor (ended up being 6HP originally thought it was bigger but just thought Id set the record straight), was running when it was put into storage. Post more on that later. In the next week or two would like to get the transom replaced and the boat painted. When it comes to the transom after reading many threads I am planning on using a marine grade non-pressure treated plywood glued and doubled up, stain and finish it with spar urethane varnish. Will be using all stainless steel hardware for putting it back in. 





Color scheme am keeping it simple with a gray or light tan (which we have both at work...) interior and exterior then exterior with a blue "sash". The aluminum extruded rim and gussets will be brushed back like original.

Seat wood was rotted of course so looking at another project to the list, rebuild seats.


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## bigwave (Mar 11, 2013)

Nice find, Welcome to the site......look forward to your mod.


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## DOBSONFLY (Mar 12, 2013)

Photoshopped until I got something close to what I would like to do for the paint. We paint a lot of our product at work already with a color very similar to what I want for the sandy/light tan color. The navy dark blue I will get from a good friend who runs a body shop probably a left over of some kind.


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## Scott Mac (Mar 12, 2013)

Have to love those older motors, that thing looks like it is going fast just sitting there. You have your work cut out for you but have a great start. Keep sharing and good luck. Fish On!


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## DOBSONFLY (Mar 13, 2013)

My plan is to rework the original seats or rebuild with new materials anyone have any suggestions for semi-original look bolt in style seating? These are aluminum foam and wood currently but was considering a bait area recessed into one of the seats and also putting in a bow fishing platform between the first seat and the current bow mounted platform area to integrate as one and have a storage area for life vests or something. Do not have plans for doing an entire floor plan or anything.


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## bigwave (Mar 14, 2013)

I guess it all depends on how original you want the boat to look. I contacted Mirrorcraft once before and one of their employees sent me a template for the 15" transom. You might try to call them, give them your serial number and they might be able to send you the original configuration, paint scheme, etc. My suggestion would be, take your time....be prepared to spend a few bucks.


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## DOBSONFLY (Mar 17, 2013)

Made some progress, dents pounded out with a 2x4 dolly and a dead blow hammer seemed to work pretty well. Welded up a small crack that was above the water line, stripped some paint, and scotch brited the extruded top rails.


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## DOBSONFLY (Mar 17, 2013)

Also was able to score some left over paint and primer from work. 

https://www.paintdocs.com/webmsds/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=STORECAT&doctype=PDS&lang=E&prodno=B50NZ6
https://ppgamercoatus.ppgpmc.com/products/pdf/450h_PDS_AI.pdf
https://ppgamercoatus.ppgpmc.com/casehist/searchresults.cfm?type=1&system=Amercoat 450H

This primer I am not sure if I will end up using or not that I had picked up, its specifically for steels but may double check with SW to see if it will work on aluminum okay, it appears to be nearly identical on the specs for the aluminum specific primer in the same line of SW product. Will end up calling SW to verify some application questions.

Considering 1st Zinc Chromate Self Etching Prime 2nd the Kem Kromik prime and then the PPG Amercoat topcoat. Any recommendations or paint experts out there before I call???

The topcoat color is tan and is intended for applications for extreme corrosion resistance so should make for a long lasting finish on a simple fresh water boat. The company I work for manufactures vessels and pipeline products that use this. Some of these operate at elevated temperatures in adverse locations, offshore platforms deserts etc.


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## DOBSONFLY (Mar 18, 2013)

After talking with some paint pros today decided I will go with Dupont 615 and 616 Variprime and will probably be about the same price by the time I had it done with rattle cans of Zinc Chromate self etching primer.

However if I run into anything I can use the method I listed above per SW technical folks.


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## fool4fish1226 (Mar 19, 2013)

Lookin good - that boat has endless Possibilities


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## Scott Mac (Mar 19, 2013)

Are you going to paint the motor? if so what are you using. It sounds like you have some great sources for paint and coating advice. Fish On!


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## DOBSONFLY (Mar 19, 2013)

Yeah I need to thank my friends more often... know the owners of three auto body shops local to me that are excellent and have been friends with for years. 

If I do paint the motor (still not sure yet if so maybe a good winter project), I know I found some on the oldmerc site but was pretty pricey https://store.oldmercs.com/product_p/92-28905.htm so am hoping one of the connections can hook me up, they all have a tool that scans and gives you mix details to match it. Or if the Merc cloud white has a code then that might work also. Anyone used automotive paints? And if so for the color and then I presume put a marine grade clear on top? or can you find marine grades in the proper colors and mix?


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## DOBSONFLY (Mar 19, 2013)

Well changing it up again on the primer in interest of saving money. Looking at $140 for the Dupont variprime 615 alone, I called a local aircraft supply and can get 12 oz cans of zinc phosphate for $7.50 each. Got 10 cans.


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## DOBSONFLY (Mar 22, 2013)

Finding some good information from some folks at johnsoldmercsite.com 
https://johnsoldmercurysite.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=5283&p=38927#p38927

We are getting hopefully one of the last winter mixes before spring so kind of on hold until the weather gets decent again.


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## DOBSONFLY (Mar 24, 2013)

Just some typical Kansas weather, no work getting done for a day or two.


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## Pweisbrod (Mar 24, 2013)

I hear that, Minnesota's weather is getting annoying.


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## DOBSONFLY (Apr 1, 2013)

I was able to get the mounting holes for the emblems TIG welded shut and sanded back down.


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## DOBSONFLY (Apr 6, 2013)

Prep work finished and primed the boat today.With the prime done maybe shoot color next weekend.

If I had to do it again, I highly recommend not using the rattle can method. The cost savings of the cans versus going to Variprime is overcome by ease of application with being able to shoot variprime with a gun (just my 2 cents, 2 guys 8 rattle cans and 2 hours later we had it done inside and out). So looking back I would have bought the Dupont 615 and been done in minutes versus hours and had better coverage. Again thats IF you have the resources to shoot it and the proper PPE.

Anyone else have any comments on Variprime vs rattle cans?


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## fool4fish1226 (Apr 6, 2013)

lookin great - keep up the good work


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## DOBSONFLY (Apr 6, 2013)

Thanks Fool4Fish! I hadn't mentioned this early. Before I primed the boat, I did double check the seals since I had never had her on the water. Used my folks' pond and ran around a bit with paddles, no leaks! 8)


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## DOBSONFLY (Apr 6, 2013)

Handles and hardware ready after the new paint.


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## wihoulihan (Apr 7, 2013)

The handles and hardware look great I was debating something like that what kind of paint did you use?


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## bigwave (Apr 7, 2013)

Man I sure wish I had a shop like yours......I would shoot every project with a gun in a shop that big. Having the dust free environment like that with good gun and compressor would make shrot work of anything. It makes all the hours of prep well worth the end result. =D>


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## DOBSONFLY (Apr 7, 2013)

wihoulihan said:


> The handles and hardware look great I was debating something like that what kind of paint did you use?



Thanks! Even though these are bare aluminum, I didn't use the zinc phosphate primer (figured they are easy enough to drill out the rivets again another day if they ever need it). I used a leftover can from paintin some exhaust, it was aluminum color high heat rustoleum automotive. I was impressed with how close they came out to looking like brushed aluminum.


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## DOBSONFLY (Apr 7, 2013)

bigwave said:


> Man I sure wish I had a shop like yours......I would shoot every project with a gun in a shop that big. Having the dust free environment like that with good gun and compressor would make shrot work of anything. It makes all the hours of prep well worth the end result. =D>



Man I wish that shop was mine too!! I owe it to friends in the right places. My friend is the manager of the body shop and his folks are the owners.


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## DOBSONFLY (Apr 7, 2013)

Was able to score some pretty nice vintage/new old stock life vests and a preserver at an auction gave $3 for the bunch. They are Swan Brand Type 1 Buoyant Vests Model AK-1 Adult.


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## DOBSONFLY (Apr 11, 2013)

I have cruised the forums and after seeing other mods have came up with the following for a seat mod. I think it will be simple, functional and retain a stock appearance. May stash a removable radio in one also (still up in the air).


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## Bsmith3244 (Apr 12, 2013)

Looks like your build is moving right along! Great work, keep it going fishing season is upon is!!


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## jvanhees (Apr 12, 2013)

Nice build so far...amazing how that CLR worked so well....I never thought of that. Will be trying that this weekend!


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## DOBSONFLY (Apr 12, 2013)

Appreciate the comments, and can't wait to get it on the water. Paint is going to have to wait another week, body shop friend is busy this weekend.



jvanhees said:


> Nice build so far...amazing how that CLR worked so well....I never thought of that. Will be trying that this weekend!



As far as the CLR goes I sprayed it on and let it sit for a few minutes. Next, used some scotch-brite wetted down. Kind of made a silvery foamy looking substance and I would recommend using some gloves. Smelled pretty rough too so wouldn't want to breathe that stuff in too much.


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## DOBSONFLY (Apr 12, 2013)

Here are the PDFs of the prints for what I am doing. The top view of the seat dimensions are original sizes. The floatation foam part dimensions are undersize slightly from originals so those dimensions are close to the original.


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## DOBSONFLY (Apr 20, 2013)

Paint done and baked, but still going to wait until tomorrow to put it back on the trailer.


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## bigwave (Apr 20, 2013)

Looks great......after the paint is done you get to start all the fun stuff.


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## DOBSONFLY (Apr 21, 2013)

bigwave said:


> Looks great......after the paint is done you get to start all the fun stuff.



Thanks bigwave I will be glad to start on the "funner" parts, the ones like when you bolt in something and just stand back in admiration for a few minutes. :mrgreen:


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## DOBSONFLY (Apr 21, 2013)

More photos. Also, I decided to go with Burgundy instead of a blue for the stripe per my girlfriend's eye. I think it was a better choice!


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## jvanhees (Apr 22, 2013)

Sharp paint job!


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## bigwave (Apr 22, 2013)

Nice paint job, are you going to paint the rail with a contrasting color? Badbagger did his in black and it turned out real nice.


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## DOBSONFLY (Apr 22, 2013)

jvanhees said:


> Sharp paint job!



Thanks!

I plan on leaving the top rails bare.


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## Country Dave (Apr 22, 2013)

_Hey man that thing is coming out great. I wish I had a metal lathe in my shop….. :mrgreen: _


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## DOBSONFLY (Apr 22, 2013)

bigwave said:


> Nice paint job, are you going to paint the rail with a contrasting color? Badbagger did his in black and it turned out real nice.




I really do like the rails on Badbagger's too, Awesome! Just for whatever reason dig mine as aluminum.

Thank you for the compliments Dave! 

Here is a better daytime shot.


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## DOBSONFLY (Apr 22, 2013)

More in process photos.


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## Andyg (Apr 22, 2013)

Boats looking good man, looks huge without the seats.


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## Scott Mac (Apr 23, 2013)

Doin' right! Keep it up it looks amazing. Fish On!


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## TheMaestro (Apr 23, 2013)

Just curious what size rivets are those you used on the bow cap? Thats a Huge boat! Great work thus far =D>


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## DOBSONFLY (Apr 23, 2013)

TheMaestro said:


> Just curious what size rivets are those you used on the bow cap? Thats a Huge boat! Great work thus far =D>



They are aluminum 3/16" dia x 5/8" max grip length https://www.fastenal.com/web/produc...Search&rfqXref=&rfqKeyword=&rfqId=&rfqLineId=


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## TheMaestro (Apr 23, 2013)

Thankyou... Are the strong enough for you to lift the bow by the bow handle?


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## DOBSONFLY (Apr 23, 2013)

So far yes. The rivets I drilled out when disassembling were the same as these. As far as I could tell these were original. I do have some stainless rivets also the same size that I can replace them with if it ever is an issue.


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## jvanhees (Apr 24, 2013)

I think you will be fine with those rivets..

And it is true, it looks huge without the benches, which is gonna turn out nice.


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## TheMaestro (Apr 24, 2013)

DOBSONFLY said:


> So far yes. The rivets I drilled out when disassembling were the same as these. As far as I could tell these were original. I do have some stainless rivets also the same size that I can replace them with if it ever is an issue.



Thanks for the info, I plan on using those rivets for mounting a bow cap extension. They look solid. Cant wait to see your next steps!


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## Makai (Apr 24, 2013)

Seat plans are fantastic. I was planning on doing something like this for my 16' restoration. How do you plan to build the lower portion of those seats?


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## DOBSONFLY (Apr 24, 2013)

Makai said:


> Seat plans are fantastic. I was planning on doing something like this for my 16' restoration. How do you plan to build the lower portion of those seats?



If you download the 2D print it may be more legible versus if you are just viewing the image file. I plan to weld the seams and will attach to the underseat section with stainless steel button head screws. You could just as easily use a rivet for joining the pieces and modify my design to include an extra tab to be broke in a sheat metal break. When I get to building these, I will post pics and details.


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## DOBSONFLY (Apr 25, 2013)

Getting some easy ones checked off of my list. Also got new pieces made for the inner and outer transom plates.


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## DOBSONFLY (Apr 26, 2013)

I know that when I ground the old rivets out they were solid on the outer transom plate. Versus using solid rivets, which are stronger than these, I decided to use aluminum sealing blind rivets and a conventional hand pop rivet gun. I don't have the tools to do solid rivets, and figured that this is a non-structural part that they would be sufficient. I put marine grade sealer in the holes before riveting the plate in place, at least on the bottom 4 rivets nearest the water line.

Sealing Blind Rivet Domed, Alum, 3/16" Dia, .251"-.375" Material Thk
https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/3276/=mht5l2


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## Alex_c (Apr 27, 2013)

The top ones might get in the way when you install the transom. If they do, you could use a button head SS screw, and pre-drill and then apply some 4200 or 5200 to the hole before you screw them into the wood. I like the shiny though.


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## DOBSONFLY (Apr 27, 2013)

Alex_c said:


> The top ones might get in the way when you install the transom. If they do, you could use a button head SS screw, and pre-drill and then apply some 4200 or 5200 to the hole before you screw them into the wood. I like the shiny though.



Yup good insight Alex,Thanks! I figured I may have to do something creative when putting the transom back in. Either what you said or drill a recess in the transom for the top two :? speaking of which, started on it today. Made some home made clamps from some 2 x 4's that were laying around when I ran out of regular clamps.

I used cabinet grade 3/4 plywood instead of marine grade. Marine grade is around $70 a sheet. I picked up 2 sheets of the cabinet grade at nearly the cost of 1 sheet of marine grade. Did do some looking around online and information I read claims that cabinet grade plys aren't quite as good as marine grade but comparable.

Pieces are glued together with Titbebond III - https://www.titebond.com/titebond_wood_glues/Ultimate_Wood_Glue.aspx
I used Cabot Gloss Spar Varnish - https://www.cabotstain.com/products/product/Spar-Varnish.html


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## Alex_c (Apr 27, 2013)

I think as long as the plywood uses waterproof glue you are golden. I'm sure enough coats of spar varnish will make any old wood last a long time.


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## DOBSONFLY (Apr 28, 2013)

Transom stain is "Gunstock".


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## Alex_c (Apr 29, 2013)

Wow, that turned out great. Looks like a piece of furniture :mrgreen:


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## Country Dave (Apr 29, 2013)

_Looks great..... =D> _


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## DOBSONFLY (Apr 29, 2013)

Thanks again CD, you set the bar high so I figured if I get half way even id be okay! 

I used all stainless steel fasteners, with Nylock nuts. Used antiseize when assembling them, stainless on stainless has a tendency to gall.


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## DOBSONFLY (Apr 30, 2013)

Here it is with the seats and a shame they are going to be covered up!


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## bigwave (Apr 30, 2013)

Wow Dobson, she is starting to look to pretty to use......great job on the transom. =D> =D> =D>


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## Country Dave (Apr 30, 2013)

_Looking good, great workmanship. _


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## DOBSONFLY (Apr 30, 2013)

Look out... Twin Mercs! Just kidding... found another one ,relatively local, for sale on Craigslist and picked it up cheap. Got a newer 6 gal fuel tank with it as well as the fuel line with small Merc fittings (rare and or pricey if you need them). I thought this would be much cheaper than buying any replacement hard parts since I would very quickly have $100 here or there wrapped up in parts via ebay or oldmercparts website.


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## Jonboat Jerry (May 2, 2013)

DOBSONFLY said:


> Here it is with the seats and a shame they are going to be covered up!


Killer work Dobonfly, the transom and seats turned out great. If you can stand it, I would not cover the seats.
Bright work shows up beautifully on a restored boat and it's easier to clean too. Great job! =D>


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## DOBSONFLY (May 5, 2013)

Jonboat Jerry said:


> Killer work Dobsonfly, the transom and seats turned out great. If you can stand it, I would not cover the seats.
> Bright work shows up beautifully on a restored boat and it's easier to clean too. Great job! =D>



Despite how good the seats look from a distance in the photo, I didn't really treat the seats with as much care as I did the transom. I said to myself, as I was putting down the varnish "I am covering it up anyway" and so any bug that flew its way in is now preserved by a nice few heavy coat of gloss, not to mention the imperfections I didn't bother sanding out and marks left from measuring and layout. So I covered the seats still. I was still pleased with the results.

Carpet is from Home Depot, it is outdoor for deck porches and pool areas, has a UV protectant. I spent around $40 to do this carpet job (carpet $20, SS Staples $11, glue $10). Used water proof glue and stainless steel staples to secure it with. All hardware bolting the seats in is stainless steel button head cap screws with stainless steel nylock nuts (again use antiseze).

I saved the old transom cut out to use as a template to bend the new transom trim piece. I did cheat a little vs the original design. I cut and welded the other straight pcs on mine, because I started at one side to start bending this piece DON'T DO THAT! I would recommend marking center on your old transom cut out piece as well as the aluminum trim piece. Align the two center marks, clamp like I did in the photo and then bend the piece. Basically I ended up too long on one of the legs, so I cut it and welded each side on instead. Anyway that's just my 2 cents for those ordering the section I did from Mirrocraft for the transom. Also you will need some tin snips to relieve like the original for the sharp bends.


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## simbelle (May 5, 2013)

Looks Good to me!


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## bigwave (May 5, 2013)

Man you would think that is from the factory....very nice job.....you have to be at least 150# lighter than me......Now lets see her on the water. =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer:


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## Country Dave (May 5, 2013)

_Hey bro grab your tools,
You could work with me anytime. Great job. _ =D> =D> =D>


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## DOBSONFLY (May 5, 2013)

Thank you for all of the compliments! I know it isn't an extreme modification to the original, but I had simple and clean in my mind, also wasn't really wanting to spend a fortune either. Maybe another build someday that will be more exciting, I would love to have a live well, full electrical and a few more HP... :mrgreen: 

I still have a few loose ends to tie up with this one yet.

- Loback cushioned seats
- Under seat storage pieces
- Modify trailer bow stop and winch location
- Rewire trailer lights
- Tune up the Merc 60's that I have now. (I think they both will run fine, may restore one and use one, and if needed could scrounge parts off of one)
- Registration (Put name and numbers on the boat also)
- Bow and stern light kit (battery type)
- Anchor
- Bimini
- Cleats
- Trolling motor, battery, battery box

who knows what else may get added to that list \/


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## DOBSONFLY (May 5, 2013)

Country Dave said:


> _Hey bro grab your tools,
> You could work with me anytime. Great job. _ =D> =D> =D>



Thanks CD and back at you!


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## Alex_c (May 6, 2013)

Bravo! Everything looks very clean. That's a hell of a hull. Mirrocraft make some great boats.


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## DOBSONFLY (May 6, 2013)

Alex_c said:


> Bravo! Everything looks very clean. That's a hell of a hull. Mirrocraft make some great boats.



Thanks, can't wait to get it on the water soon. Gotta do some motor work still too.


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## jvanhees (May 7, 2013)

Nice work Dobson!


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## DOBSONFLY (May 11, 2013)

jvanhees said:


> Nice work Dobson!



Thank you.

Waiting on a few motor parts and can get the lower unit back on one of the Mercs. Did some JB weld repair on a crack, cleaned up and painted the LU also.


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## Country Dave (May 11, 2013)

_The cavitation plate repair came out great. =D> 

I once repaired a missing chunk out of a motor cycle engine block with an aluminum can and JB weld. I drove that bike for year after with no leaks. _


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## DOBSONFLY (May 11, 2013)

Thanks Dave, I am hoping to get on the water this coming Friday. Also hope this repair does as well as yours. Mine wasn't leaking and the crack wasn't through the case visually. Just wanting to prevent any further damage or future cracking from the old crack. I just realized that last photo was the wrong side, this one is the repair after paint.


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## Country Dave (May 11, 2013)

DOBSONFLY said:


> Thanks Dave, I am hoping to get on the water this coming Friday. Also hope this repair does as well as yours. Mine wasn't leaking and the crack wasn't through the case visually. Just wanting to prevent any further damage or future cracking from the old crack. I just realized that last photo was the wrong side, this one is the repair after paint.


_
I’m sure it will be fine,

You can always pressure test the unit and make sure there are no leaks. I mean if it was leaking you probably would have seen some seepage. Not sure what to pressure test it at. I know its low, prob around 2 or 3 psi. I’m sure you could find the spec online. Looking good though……………… =D> _


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## Zum (May 11, 2013)

Looks real nice,did you make some sort of form or just free hand it?


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## DOBSONFLY (May 11, 2013)

Zum said:


> Looks real nice,did you make some sort of form or just free hand it?



Thank you Zum. I left a lot of extra JB weld then filed and sanded to shape. Finished up with a scotch brite before painting.


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## bigwave (May 12, 2013)

Great job on the repair.....I will say it again....you restore is top notch.


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## fool4fish1226 (May 12, 2013)

bigwave said:


> Great job on the repair.....I will say it again....you restore is top notch.



+1 looking good !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## Jonboat Jerry (May 12, 2013)

Killer work Dobson.....I wonder if that stuff would work on a prop I was prospecting with last month.......
Nice


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## DOBSONFLY (May 12, 2013)

Continue to appreciate the comments and still envy you guys' riggs and builds! 8) 

I finally got around to working on the trailer a bit, good fill work for the time I am waiting on Merc parts. Moved the bow stop and winch back 3' since the trailer I got off CL was for a larger fiberglass boat. I was able to replace the wheel well back plates and steps that were wood with steel today as well. Check the bearings, paint and new lights if all goes well this week.

In the extra neck space I would like to get sealed box I can lock for miscellaneous storage.


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## DOBSONFLY (May 13, 2013)

I picked up lettering and got home to see both sets of Merc parts in today. Made for a busy evening after work, productive though. Was able to put back together and run the craigslist Merc 60 as well as got the lettering and numbering on.


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## jvanhees (May 14, 2013)

Seriously good work


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## DOBSONFLY (May 14, 2013)

Thanks again jvanhees.

I put the new diaphragm in and she is running like a champ, not to mention I don't recall if the vent was unscrewed on the fuel tank last night. 
Ran continuous for as long as I wanted just took the video of startup really because I am amazed at how easy she fires right up!

[youtube]dAQGtlEylA4[/youtube]


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## DOBSONFLY (May 15, 2013)

Cleaned up the trailer, the paint was okay so I scuffed it all with a scotch brite pad. After that, I wiped it down with acetone and used some decent krylon rattle can to recoat it all. Re-wiring the LED lights tomorrow, just have them bolted in place in the photo.


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## DOBSONFLY (May 18, 2013)

Left for work early and brought along the rig so I could get out early in the evening. Here are some photos and video from the trial run at the lake which was a success, and exceeded my expectations. Only bug was getting some air out of the fuel lines, after that no problems the rest of the evening. Around 8 MPH wide open. 

[youtube]y64Ti01wpwI[/youtube]
[youtube]dbbrlpIOnLs[/youtube]


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## Alex_c (May 20, 2013)

Nice splash!

I'm surprised at how well that little motor gets the boat moving. Must be better on fuel than my 35 .

Again, great clean work on everything.

Are you going to add any luxuries to the interior? (stereo, lights, finder etc)

You're gonna have a big shoulder running that little tiller so far back! Any plans on an extension? I'm going to make one up for mine so I can stand and sit at a comfortable angle for those longer runs up the bay/river.


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## DOBSONFLY (May 20, 2013)

Thanks! I plan on adding cushioned swivel seats, bi-mini maybe later on, some pole holders, and storage under the seats. Not much else at this point. Not planning on an extension as of yet.


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## wihoulihan (May 21, 2013)

Looks awesome dobson nicely done and looks sick on the water hopefully my build will be splashing soon


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## Country Dave (May 22, 2013)

_Hey bro it came out great……………… =D> =D> =D> _


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## DOBSONFLY (May 22, 2013)

Thank you guys, going to be out again this Friday. Try to get some fish in the boat this time around!


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## DOBSONFLY (Jun 13, 2013)

More HP is coming soon... in the form of a classic cloud white Mercury. _Super Hurricane 22HP_


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## bigwave (Jun 13, 2013)

You are going to be very happy with that bigger motor.


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## Country Dave (Jun 13, 2013)

_More HP :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: _


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## riverrat174 (Jun 13, 2013)

Unbelievable workmanship. Very Jealous!!!! Nice work.


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## Alex_c (Jun 13, 2013)

There's no replacement for displacement :mrgreen:


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## DOBSONFLY (Jun 13, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=318717#p318717 said:


> Alex_c » Today, 21:34[/url]"]There's no replacement for displacement :mrgreen:





Country Dave said:


> More HP :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:





bigwave said:


> You are going to be very happy with that bigger motor.



Great minds think alike! :twisted: 



riverrat174 said:


> Unbelievable workmanship. Very Jealous!!!! Nice work.



Thanks a mill!


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## Alex_c (Jun 24, 2013)

Any progress on the new motor?


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## Skully (Jun 30, 2013)

Nothing more rewarding then paying attention to detail taking your time and doing the job right! excellent job


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## DOBSONFLY (Jun 30, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=320086#p320086 said:


> Alex_c » 24 Jun 2013, 21:18[/url]"]Any progress on the new motor?



Compression is good on both cylinders. Got the coils throwing fire now through cleaning the points back up and checking all the connections. Went through the carb and fuel pump, was missing some parts and picked up some old carbs off ebay vs buying new merc parts ($$$$). Started up and ran well but did not pee at all, so I shut it down after my suspicions were confirmed. 

Replacing the water pump impeller on a automatic Mercury of this era isn't exactly easy or fun I have learned through research and now experience. I have it all pulled down now and need a few gaskets I hadn't ordered.


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## DOBSONFLY (Jun 30, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=320689#p320689 said:


> Skully » Today, 18:20[/url]"]Nothing more rewarding then paying attention to detail taking your time and doing the job right! excellent job



Thank you! 8)


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## DOBSONFLY (Jul 5, 2013)

Installed the seats on adjustable clamp style mounts with swivels. Think the seat and boat colors tied in pretty closely. 

Clamps - https://www.rogerssportinggoods.com...s-boat-seat-clamp-swivel-pi-2693.html?image=0
Swivels - standard from Wal-Mart, Bass Pro, Cabela's, etc.
Seats - Bass Pro Tourney Special II Lo-Back https://www.basspro.com/Bass-Pro-Shops-Tourney-Special-II-LoBack-Seat/product/13011205261523/


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## SCARNG2011 (Jul 5, 2013)

very stylish and excellent attention to detail. simple, clean, and polished.

that's about all I have to say dude. congrats!


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## DOBSONFLY (Jul 6, 2013)

Thanks and you have an exceptionally clean rig yourself! Impressive work and craftsmanship on your build as well. 8)


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## DOBSONFLY (Jul 7, 2013)

Few photos from the holiday weekend. Out on the water a bit and also worked on the 22 HP Mark 28.


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## Alex_c (Jul 10, 2013)

Motor is cleaning up nicely. What all does it need?


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## DOBSONFLY (Jul 10, 2013)

Water pump impeller, bearing just above the split in the lower unit, carb parts were missing (float, float bowl top, filter, filter cap), fuel pump work, and plugs were pretty rough. I got it put back together late last night and fired up but have some troubleshooting still yet to do. My place is starting to look like a Mercury museum :lol: 

From left to right in the photo: 1959 Sea King 12 HP (worked on it for a friend), 1958 Mark 28 - 22 HP, 1961 Merc 100 - 10 HP, 1962 Merc 60 - 6 HP, 1963 Merc 60 - 6 HP.


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## Alex_c (Jul 10, 2013)

I think you need to find a way to run all 4 of those on your boat :mrgreen:


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## DOBSONFLY (Jul 27, 2013)

I was able to get the bugs worked out of the 1958 Mercury Mark 28, 22 HP. Running wide open with 2 people and gear I am able to hit 20 MPH. Running solo gets a little crazy not sure how much faster but it was enough to make me grin. :mrgreen: 

(not sure where my digital camera battery charger is so no really high quality shots or video. and for those looking really closely, yes I am running a 1961 Merc 100 9.8 HP recoil hood on it. Recoil messed up on the original one)


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## Gators5220 (Dec 16, 2013)

Nice restore man, looks sweet.


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## thill (Feb 23, 2014)

Thanks for the detailed posts and pictures. I really enjoyed following your work!

I really admire your attention to detail. I'm in the middle of restoring a 1957 Crestliner 710 Viking, and I'm just happy to get it in useable shape! But after seeing yours, it makes me think I need to flip mine, sand off the multiple layers of old paint, and try to make it decent looking.

You used CLR and a Scotchbrite pad? By hand or on a wheel/angle grinder?

Thanks.

-TH


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## DOBSONFLY (Mar 28, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=342572#p342572 said:


> thill » 23 Feb 2014, 12:18[/url]"]Thanks for the detailed posts and pictures. I really enjoyed following your work!
> 
> I really admire your attention to detail. I'm in the middle of restoring a 1957 Crestliner 710 Viking, and I'm just happy to get it in useable shape! But after seeing yours, it makes me think I need to flip mine, sand off the multiple layers of old paint, and try to make it decent looking.
> 
> ...



Thank you for the kind remarks. I used the scotch brite and CLR combination only on the top rails and areas I did not plan on painting, as I feared the CLR may give me problems later on when painting. Additionally, the painted areas really came off very easily with acetone and rags, it literally wiped off the old original paint after it was let soak for a short time. The majority of this was all done by hand, took roughly 2 gallons of acetone to do the entire exterior. I found using an oscillating electric sander from wal-mart with hand cut scotch brite pads worked well (the latched in to the existing hook and loop style pads on the sander) for finishing up the remaining areas. In general, I felt that using the least abrasive technique is the best possibly solution for preservation/restoration.


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## thill (Mar 28, 2014)

Thanks for the details. My boat has many, many layers of paint from the last 56 years of use. The top layers are peeling, and who knows how far down the original coat is?

Removing this much paint is daunting. I actually don't want to remove it all, just the loose, peeling stuff. Don't want to mess up any sealing the paint may be performing.

-TH


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## Rattle can (Mar 30, 2014)

Absolutely beautiful your paint work is amazing


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## Bigwrench (Mar 31, 2014)

That was an amazing read and a ton of information to learn from. That boat looks sweet ! Thanks a bunch , gonna have to use several of your techniques in my rebuilds.


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## DOBSONFLY (Apr 14, 2014)

Thank you again for the kind remarks on my build and best of luck with your own! :mrgreen: 

I was able to pickup a nearly two decades newer motor,that has seen little to no time on the water, at an auction this past weekend.

1975 Mercury 200 - 20 HP 
Under the hood literally looks showroom condition, no gunk, no soot, nothing. Few minor scuffs on the outside.


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## DOBSONFLY (May 11, 2014)

I was able to get the new motor tuned up. Plugs, ignition box, water pump impeller, gaskets and a good cleaning. Made a trip out yesterday but had to leave early due to a storm that blew in.


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## 80mirrocraft (May 22, 2014)

DOBSONFLY said:


> Jonboat Jerry said:
> 
> 
> > Killer work Dobsonfly, the transom and seats turned out great. If you can stand it, I would not cover the seats.
> ...



what did you use to make the transom trim? and where did you get it?!!!! looks awsome!


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## DOBSONFLY (May 30, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=353139#p353139 said:


> 80mirrocraft » 22 May 2014, 06:45[/url]"]
> 
> 
> DOBSONFLY said:
> ...



It is from Mirrocraft directly, again I was a bit dissappointed for the price considering they only will send you a piece that is a channel which will require bending to get the proper shape. In my opinion, if I had to do it again I would go to a local fabrication shop and get a piece of aluminum bent in the needed channel shape then bend it just like I did with the Mirrocraft part (which is all it was anyway) and saved myself a few dollars.


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## thill (May 30, 2014)

A little heat from a torch makes aluminum channel bend a lot easier and much more precisely.

-TH


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