# 1988 BOAT TRAILER (RE-FURB)



## onecoolcad (Feb 28, 2013)

Questions abound when I dig into this old trailer I bought (part of a $300 package deal).

The picture depicts what the trailer used to loook like before I dismantled it.

So far I stripped off the old wiring harness and lights, the hull supports and washed all the spider webs away.

What is left is a slightly rusty, appears strong and looks like what's going to be a trusty trailer.

I want to re-paint it, so the important thing (I think) is de-rusting. Am I right?

What do you guys think about a coat of Navel Jelly before re-primer?

or is just good ol' elbow grease and a good wire brush all I need?


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## Henricogolfer (Mar 1, 2013)

When I did mine a few years back I sanded, primed and painted and it and it has held up fine. I used a metal paint and primer, not sure if the Navel Jelly will help, but certainly would not hurt.

Good Luck, would love to see finished pictures.


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## hoosier78 (Mar 1, 2013)

I just did the exact same thing to my trailer. I am not smart enough to be able to post a link on this post but if you look at "hoosier78 1648 monark" you can see the results. I used a wire wheel on a grinder, rust-oleum rusty metal primer and gloss black rust-oleum top coat. It looks amazing. Good luck.


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## BassBlaster (Mar 1, 2013)

My vote is to wire wheel it. If your gonna do it, may as well do it right. Get all that old paint and rust off there and start over. Click the link in my sig for my trailer build to see how I did mine.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Mar 2, 2013)

I used a 3M made abrasive wheel in my drill. Your trailer looks like a Harbor freight, Menards stamped sheet metal trailer. If it's not welded together you can unbolt it and really give it a good de-rusting. By putting wood inside the beams you can add a lot of strength to the trailer.


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## onecoolcad (Mar 3, 2013)

Burnt through a Black and Decker drill with a wire wheel on it! (guess it got too hot). Gonna pick up a hand grinder today, see if that helps

Found the name plate, so I have a general direction to go in searching details (if any) on the trailer.


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## onecoolcad (Mar 6, 2013)

Here we go! Next Question:

the tounge on my trailer is only 2 1/2" tube steel. Every thing I find for Winch Post's are designed for 2" and 3" Tube Steel.

What are my options?

FYI the existing post is still attached but I had to demo the Bow Roller Mount and makeshift Winch Mount.

I guess I still have the option to connect to that point, but easier to remove it and replace with Bolt-On model.

Right? any insights?


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## JMichael (Mar 6, 2013)

You could use some 2" and shim the attaching straps out 1/4" on each side so they clear the sides of the tongue.


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## sawmill (Mar 7, 2013)

JMichael said:


> You could use some 2" and shim the attaching straps out 1/4" on each side so they clear the sides of the tongue.


I had the same idea but I would use 2 1/2 inch wide material because it would clamp in tighter to the trailer


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## JMichael (Mar 7, 2013)

sawmill said:


> JMichael said:
> 
> 
> > You could use some 2" and shim the attaching straps out 1/4" on each side so they clear the sides of the tongue.
> ...


 :lol: But he already said he can't find 2 1/2". All he can find is 2" or 3". :mrgreen:


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## onecoolcad (Mar 11, 2013)

Pulled the hubs and reconditioning the moving parts on trailer this last weekend.

Spindles in good condition, axel straight, tires, seals and bearing need replacing

Seems that the bearing for this trailer are not readily available, so I had to order them.

Any feedback on upgrades or suggestions before I put the wheels back on?


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Mar 11, 2013)

What size bearings does your trailer need?


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