# My New 1448 Flat Bottom Project.



## SaltyBuckster (Oct 7, 2010)

I just got a very straight 14 foot flat bottom that I'm going to do.You guys have some really great looking boats.This is the perfect forum for somebody wishing to make something very special.Can't wait to get going.As soon as I can figure out how to attach photos on here,I'll get the first one up.The before,so to speak.How do you get to the browse after hitting the (img) button?


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## dixie_boysles (Oct 7, 2010)

welcome to the forum! instead of attaching photos, try a photo hosting site like https://www.photobucket.com to upload photos and then copy and past the


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## SaltyBuckster (Oct 7, 2010)

Thanks for the welcome.I'll get going on the photobucket deal.


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## SaltyBuckster (Oct 7, 2010)

I don't think that this the correct way to do this.Someone PLEASE help me out,lol.


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## SaltyBuckster (Oct 7, 2010)

Here's the day of purchase.Going to get started on the trailer this weekend.Looks fun to have a place to watch my progress.


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## plugknocker (Oct 7, 2010)

I plan to watch your progress. I'm learning quite a bit reading through these forums. 
Good luck.


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## SaltyBuckster (Oct 7, 2010)

I just went through and looked at a lot of rebuilds on here.I'm going to start with the trailer.Gonna get it greased up good,tear it down and paint it.Then redo the bunks and wiring if needed.I'de hate to have a done boat sitting there,then have to take it off the trailer to redo it.I've made up my mind,finally at something.lol


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## DaveInGA (Oct 8, 2010)

Looks like you got a nice wide boat and a great project there. Have fun with the renovation.


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## SaltyBuckster (Oct 13, 2010)

Got the boat home and am going to start on the trailer tomorrow.


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## DaveInGA (Oct 13, 2010)

azslabber said:


> I just went through and looked at a lot of rebuilds on here.I'm going to start with the trailer.Gonna get it greased up good,tear it down and paint it.Then redo the bunks and wiring if needed.I'de hate to have a done boat sitting there,then have to take it off the trailer to redo it.I've made up my mind,finally at something.lol



This is a very good choice. Once the trailer is done, you'll have the option of transporting your boat anywhere you need to.

Looks like you've got a nice boat for a project. Have fun.


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## Howard (Oct 13, 2010)

Yep, trailer first, good choice. Nice tin and keep us posted..


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## SaltyBuckster (Oct 13, 2010)

I'll be posting pics as I go.Thanks guys.I can't wait to get started.


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## SaltyBuckster (Oct 20, 2010)

I've been gathering all the stuff that I need for the boat.I've gotten some 48" diamond plate aluminum for the deck,some 1 1/2" aluminum angle for the deck supports.I'm trying to find the right paint for it.Made up my mind on Parker Duck Boat paint in green for inside and out.First I wanted to find a livewell to fit inside my center bench,not having to much luck,any ideas would be appreshiated.Should be some pics up Saturday night after teardown,or during teardown.I'll be working on the trailer to get it done before the boat gets worked on.


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## mangelcc (Oct 20, 2010)

Nice boat. Look forward to seeing your mods. I have a 1448 and dont have a livewell and cant decide on what to do. Decisions, decisions.


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## SaltyBuckster (Oct 20, 2010)

Yea,I was going to take my center bench out and put a cooler livewell in.That was too lame,lol.


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## mangelcc (Oct 20, 2010)

I also thought about that. I have about 3Ft by 4 ft to work with.


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## SaltyBuckster (Oct 23, 2010)

I'm all hyped up about working on this boat and have gotten almost all of my materials to do it.The guy that I bought it from is having trouble with getting the trailer title.I almost started today on it,but decided to wait until I have all of the paperwork first.What a hastle.


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## midnight_f150 (Oct 28, 2010)

azslabber said:


> I'm all hyped up about working on this boat and have gotten almost all of my materials to do it.The guy that I bought it from is having trouble with getting the trailer title.I almost started today on it,but decided to wait until I have all of the paperwork first.What a hastle.



azslabber I guess I can watch you on both tinboat.net and crappie.com now.


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## SaltyBuckster (Oct 28, 2010)

Yes you can F-150.It all begins on Saturday.I got all of my paperwork and am ready to get on this thing.Lots of pics starting Saturday.I can't wait.


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## midnight_f150 (Oct 28, 2010)

azslabber said:


> Yes you can F-150.It all begins on Saturday.I got all of my paperwork and am ready to get on this thing.Lots of pics starting Saturday.I can't wait.


am ready to see it.


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## SaltyBuckster (Oct 29, 2010)

I'm going to bed early tonight to get started on the boat tomorrow morning.My brother and a friend are going to tear it totally down and start sanding it,inside and out.I'll be working on the trailer.I'll be sure to get lots of pics.I want to ask a couple of things.Does anyone know of a cheaper place to get 4.80 x 12B wheels and tires for the trailer?It has the 4.80 x 8B on it right now.In Arizona there is a lot of driving to get to a lake.I can't find them anywhere here.Thanks


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## SaltyBuckster (Nov 1, 2010)

Here they are.I finally got to get on the boat this morning.Lots more to do then I thought.I'm kinda lucky I guess.There is an aluminum guy right in the next building and he came in to check it out.I'm going to show some pics of what I found on the bottom of the boat.I got it gutted,cleaned it out with a water hose and scotch brite pad.Got the old wooden deck torn out.Must have lost at least 75 pounds.After getting the deck torn out and seeing what was under it,I have changed my mind about doing things.I'm open for suggestions.As for now,just a good sand and paint for both the trailer and boat,then the mods to follow.I got a case of the lighter green Camo Rustoleum spray cans and some self etching primer in Rustoleum also.I don't think that I'll be using it for a while though,lol.Here's the beginning.Hope you enjoy the show.Ha.


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## SaltyBuckster (Nov 1, 2010)

Here's a pile.lol
















In the front right on the center rib going back it looks like it was run into a rock.Looks to me like someone tried to use a torch to weld it,it's a real mess.Tomorrow morning I am going to dolly inside the rib from the insiide with a dolly on a stick,check for some other places,like the front hook that looks like it was welded by the same guy.I'm going to get it straightened out and cleaned up so the the aluminum welder can do his thing.I was'nt thinking that I had to do anything like this,but,it is what it is.I'll be getting pics of everything that gets done tomorrow.The show will go on,lol.It is a true 1648,lol.


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## DaveInGA (Nov 2, 2010)

Don't get discouraged by the dings/dents/tears. Even though it's a pain, you can get it repaired and have a very nice boat in the end. A 1648 is definitely a boat worth the time to fix it. I'd love to have one of those as an electric lake boat myself. 

I can't tell what all you did on the trailer. Do you have pics?


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## SaltyBuckster (Nov 2, 2010)

I have'nt done anything to anything yet,lol.Just a teardown.The trailer is pretty sound.It had a new set of tail lights and a new wiring harness put into it.The bearings were all good.I'm going to put a new set of bunks and carpet them,paint the trailer and some new rollers in the middle.I put a couple pieces of 1/4 angle at the jack in the front and welded them on to hold it tighter.The trailer was to skinny for the new jack that they had put on.That's fixed.All of the add ons were new.Just 4 little tears on the bottom of the boat that will be aluminum welded tomorrow.Then I'll be at it again.


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## SaltyBuckster (Nov 3, 2010)

Was a kinda slooow day working on the boat today.Welded some angle on the trailer to let the jack swing back and lock while trailering.Put in some new hardware to make it secure.Works out perfectly.




Used some 1/4" angle to make the tongue wider and let the jack swing back and lock while trailering.




The center rib was crushed flat.I metal finished it back to where it looked pretty original again.Right behind that was a place that someone had used a torch to weld a little tear.I ground that down and the aluminum welding guy will be there Friday to help me out with a couple of places.When he gets done welding the tears I'm going to repaint the whole inside.Minus the top gunnel,so that I can flip it on it's top again and work on the outside and bottom this weekend.More pics on Friday night.


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## SaltyBuckster (Nov 5, 2010)

Full day on the boat today.Outside is all prepped,starting working on the inside.Lots and lots of old carpet glue to deal with on the sides and the benches.Used a wire wheel to take it off then sanded everything inside and out with a DA sander with 150 grit.I wire wheeled all the ribs inside to get anything out of the ribs that was stuck in there.Looks pretty sweet now.ONE coat of paint on the whole boat.Pretty easy sanding.Especially for a 1977 boat in Arizona.




Outside sanded down ready for primer




Shows all the carpet glue inside




Front end is DONE












Killer handtied Jig to break up the monotany,lol.
Another full day tomorrow sanding the rest of the inside.Waiting on my Lab Metal to get it ready to primer.Not till next weekend.I wanted to have the inside done by Sunday,but you all know how that goes.


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## SaltyBuckster (Nov 6, 2010)

Worked on the boat for about 3 hours today.I will never put treated plywood in an aluminum boat again after what I saw from this one.That old deck that they had on the front of this thing,when I tore it out and started sanding it was all rusted in front of the rib where they had the wood against it.The whole way across the front of the boat.Even with a wire wheel I could'nt get to clean metal..Of course there are rivets across the same rib coming in from the bottom.I was wondering why they had some kind of putty on all of them rivets,I know now.It's funny how you can see a little story behind all of the things that you find when fixing up an old anything,lol.Got some self etching primer on some of it today.




Cleared the deck of tools and stripped and primed the inside edge around the deck area.I'm thinking of just putting a piece of well sealed and carpetted 1/2" plywood in that area and putting a 3/4" pedestal base in it to the rear of the deck.


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## SaltyBuckster (Nov 6, 2010)

The front half is about there.Time for the center and back tomorrow.I was planning on having the inside painted this weekend,primered is my new goal.Wait until you see that rear bench !!lol.I'm scared just thinking of it.You'll all see.


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## Sgt. Stiglitz (Nov 7, 2010)

I got a nice 6HP Johnson sitting in my garage, I upgraded to a Tahtsu/Nissan 8HP.............I'm just down the road from you. I got the Nissan in Scottsdale yesterday for $550.00......











https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=15880


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## SaltyBuckster (Nov 10, 2010)

Nice motor there Sarge.Would be perfect for the limited horse power lakes up north.


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## SaltyBuckster (Nov 11, 2010)

Got some more done today on Project X , lol.Got the front inside painted to the center bench.Got all the carpet glue out of the entire inside of the boat,Hurray !!What a pain.By Sunday night the whole inside will be done painted.The outside is already sanded.Just waiting on my "Lab Metal" to fix the gouges and tears and then some self etching primer, then to the water to check for any more leaks before painting the outside and starting the mods.Here are some pics of what happened today.




Front inside painted




Center and rear glue removed and sanded




Here's the nastyness on the rear bench.Still figuring the best way to fix this up.Any suggestions ??


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## SaltyBuckster (Nov 11, 2010)

Here's the front deck area.I stripped the edge down to bare metal and primed and painted the edge.I'm going to extend the deck back to the rib further back for support.It will probably extend it back about another foot and a half.It's going to be all made of aluminum.No Wood.




That's why I did'nt paint the deck.
Now,fix the rear bench,paint the rest of the inside and fix the cracks.Then into the water to check for any other leaks.It's almost a boat again.The paint that I used for the inside is Rustoleum Camo Green.It looks better in person.I like it.


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## DaveInGA (Nov 12, 2010)

azslabber said:


> Here's the nastyness on the rear bench.Still figuring the best way to fix this up.Any suggestions ??



Here's a couple:

1. Cut out the beat up torn section as a square and replace it with a fresh piece of aluminum. Weld the new piece in and sand smooth.

2. Work the old metal flat and smooth as much as possible, weld it up, then cover the entire bench with a fresh piece of aluminum.

3. Install a deck with fresh metal over the old section and weld it in.

4. Remove the bench leaving enough on the edges to attach framing to. Build up a rear deck with framing and storage to replace the bench seat. You could build in fuel storage, some switches/fuses/wiring and insure your flotation is up to snuff. Use whatever portion of the original bench metal that's good in the new construction.

Of the four options, I'd probably do number four if I owned the boat.


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## SaltyBuckster (Nov 12, 2010)

Thanks,one of the 4 for sure.I'm taking the day off today from the boat.But,still doing some planning for tomorrow.That is pretty much the only thing that has to be fixed to get it in paint.Then the inside will be painted.After that is done,back on the trailer and finishing it up.Pretty much just painting,redoing the bunks,then putting it all back together with the new wheels and tires.I think that it is going black with the upright guides in the back being yellow.That's my plan anyway,lol.I have to weld a step in the rear in front of the tire so I can get up into it easier.I do have 2 prostetic legs.


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## SaltyBuckster (Nov 13, 2010)

Got some more done today.Repaired the rear bench by repairing the bent up stuff from the inside,drilled 1/8 " hioles at the ends of all the cracks in the aluminum to stop the cracking,ground it all down then rivited on a new piece of thicker aluminum.I etch primed the top of the bench and also the new piece of aluminum that I installed so the primer would be face to face.




I also sanded and painted the front deck because it bothered me.lol.




I really like the way it is coming out.Heck it looks like a new boat.








I painted the guides Fl. Yellow.Getting ready to go to the trailer next.Black trailer with the Fl. yellow guides on the back and black carpeted bunks.Getting better every trip that I do something to it.I like it,ALOT !!


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## RBuffordTJ (Nov 15, 2010)

This is a great project.

Bufford


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## SaltyBuckster (Nov 15, 2010)

Bufford I took a look at the work that you did on your tinny.Very nice.It made me decide to do the bottom of mine in the Steelflex.I have a couple little tears that I will be fixing tomorrow with the Lab Metal that will be here today.Just have to decide on a color.Thinking OD Green for mine.


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## SaltyBuckster (Nov 15, 2010)

I had to change my boat thread title after measuring it.The title on the boat says unknown and after seeing this I went to measuring it up.I thought that it looked like a short 16 foot,lol.Changed all of my outboard hunting.Of course the 15 hp Johnson passed me by while lookimng for a 25,what an idiot I am at times.


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## SaltyBuckster (Nov 16, 2010)

Got a lot done today.Inside is all painted.No more glue or sanding between rivits and ribs.I'm almost ready to start doing some mods to this boat.




This is the Lab Metal that I was talking about.Came UPS yesterday.Did'nt know how it would act.But was very pleased.Very easy to apply and I made a special tool to apply inside the ribs.I took 3 paint sticks and glued them together.Vise gripped them for an hour or two,then I sanded them down with 80 grit to form and bevel to fit perfectly inside the rib.




Inside all done.I love it.


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## SaltyBuckster (Nov 16, 2010)

Here's a couple more.









I have the Lab Metal on the outside with the boat flipped over for about the 50th time.It should be ready for primer tomorrow,then a trip to the lake to put it in the water and make sure there are no more leaks before I paint it.Enjoy,I am.


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## jasper60103 (Nov 16, 2010)

Wow, you raised that tin from the dead. It looks great. Also, I never heard of lab metal. I'm curious to know how the water test goes. Great thread.


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## lbursell (Nov 17, 2010)

A lot of people would have been scared off from that rear bench. Great job on the repair.


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## SaltyBuckster (Nov 17, 2010)

Thanks.I used to repair Lexus and Jaguars in my time.Was'nt going to let an aluminum boat scare me,lol.I like the boat better then any high priced cars that I ever worked on before.It should be water tight right now.I have to try it out.Heck,I've never had a boat this long without snagging up some gills with it.I'm thinking a maiden voyage on Sunday before I paint the outside.Going to see how hard it is to sand the "Lab Metal" today and use the rest of it up.Don't want it drying up on me before I get it on the boat.It just air dries without any hardner.Keep your fingers crossed,lol.It says that it can be tap and dyed and even powder coated.Miracle stuff.I hope.


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## FishingBuds (Nov 17, 2010)

Looken great, its gonna be better than brand new when your done with it


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## jcb (Nov 17, 2010)

I likes what you has done so far.I glad to has joined up here and seen what all the people has done to there boat.The enginutity of the people has reelilly ingoverended me with my boat :mrgreen:


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## RBuffordTJ (Nov 17, 2010)

azslabber said:


> Bufford I took a look at the work that you did on your tinny.Very nice.It made me decide to do the bottom of mine in the Steelflex.I have a couple little tears that I will be fixing tomorrow with the Lab Metal that will be here today.Just have to decide on a color.Thinking OD Green for mine.



Thanks man, glad I could be of assistance in some way. I love the work you have done on this, and when you finish with the Steelflex I think you will be very happy with the result. I am amazed at how slick the bottom is, and how completely water tight it is now!!!


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## dan-k (Nov 21, 2010)

azslabber, I am thinking of using Lab Metal on the exterior of a patch job on my Bass Tracker, sort of like a marine equivalent to Bondo. Having used it yourself, do you think it will work for this application? A link to my post: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=16508


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## SaltyBuckster (Nov 22, 2010)

Dan-K it worrks great and would be perfect for a patch job.I filled my boat full of water and let it sit for three days,Not one leak anywhere.My computer is down right now,hopefully will be able to post pics tomorrow.Trailer is completely done,waiting on my steelflex for the bottom.Put the lab metal on both sides.Works great.


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## dan-k (Nov 22, 2010)

Thanks for the reply. Someone else said it got soft after exposure to water, did you observe that at all? The first link to my post was moved because I posted in the wrong section, so here is an updated link: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=16508


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## SaltyBuckster (Nov 25, 2010)

Ok Everybody,computer is back in action.I have lots of pics to show.I'll start off with the trailer that is done except for the bunks.The only thing that I am going to change is the fenders.I'm going to sand them down again and paint them with the camo to match the boat,then clear coat them.




In the booth.All black inside and out of the frame.




Rollers installed








Put the rear guides on also.Bunks will be carpeted in black,and I have a new wiring harness for the plug and tail lights.


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## SaltyBuckster (Nov 25, 2010)

Ok,back to the boat.I finished with the Lab Metal,inside and out.I put the boat up on a stand and filled her up with water.The whole bottom had about 4 inches of water in it for 4 days.Had 1 pinhole leaking from the rear of the boat on the outside rib.Very easy fix.Had just enough Lab Metal left to fix it.




Leaking Culprit





















All sanded getting the bottom ready for the Steel Flex now.


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## SaltyBuckster (Nov 25, 2010)

I called and ordered my Steel Flex on Tuesday.I got 1 gallon with the OD Green pigment.I stripped the bottom and up to that first body line on the side of the boat.I have it all masked off with paper and am going to paint the top and the gunnel with the same green that I painted the inside with.I'll get some pics of that on Saturday.


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## SaltyBuckster (Nov 27, 2010)

Moving right along.Waiting on my Steel Flex,figured I'de shoot the top of the boat to make some lines to follow.The rest will be rolled with Steel Flex.








Self etching Primer












Can't wait to get done with the outside and get it back on the trailer to finish it up.


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## SaltyBuckster (Nov 27, 2010)

I did'nt want to take the tag and letters off the boat until I got a new tag.I'm going to remove them all and get new ones.That will be in February.That's why I stuck with the Rustoleum Camo Paint.Easy to fix screw ups,lol.


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## DaveInGA (Nov 27, 2010)

Looking good dude! :beer:


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## SaltyBuckster (Nov 27, 2010)

To anyone that has used the Steel Flex,what else should I do to the boat to make it ready to roll on?In the pitures it is machine sanded with 80 grit.I'm going to go over where the little circles of paint are around the rivits.I still have to paint the transom and strip the area where the Steel Flex will go across the back.It is already sanded and etch primed back there.I'm going to put some masking tape across the back inline with what is already painted and strip it down to bare aluminum.Any input on this prep ???


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## Henry Hefner (Nov 28, 2010)

azslabber said:


> To anyone that has used the Steel Flex,what else should I do to the boat to make it ready to roll on?In the pitures it is machine sanded with 80 grit.I'm going to go over where the little circles of paint are around the rivits.I still have to paint the transom and strip the area where the Steel Flex will go across the back.It is already sanded and etch primed back there.I'm going to put some masking tape across the back inline with what is already painted and strip it down to bare aluminum.Any input on this prep ???



Looks good to me! The only thing you haven't mentioned was removal of dust. I washed mine with soap and water and then went over it with acetone on a rag after it dried.


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## SaltyBuckster (Nov 28, 2010)

I take a damp rag and wipe it down and blow it off before doing any masking.I know that it has to be wiped down with Acetone before the Steel Flex,so they told me.Is 80 grit heavy enough for this?Or should I go to 60 or even 40 grit?


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## Henry Hefner (Nov 28, 2010)

Heavier grit cannot hurt, since the steelflex is so thick, but I think 80 grit is plenty rough. Then again, I'm not an expert, just a one-boat user.


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## 89Suburban (Nov 30, 2010)

Awesome job on this boat and trailer dude.


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## franner11 (Nov 30, 2010)

talk about raised from the dead!
GREAT JOB!


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## SaltyBuckster (Nov 30, 2010)

Will get to do a little more tommorrow.I'm going to do the rear of the boat.Transom,not replace,lol.Just paint and make the line for the Steel Flex.It's already been sanded and self etched primered.I've got to make a straight line across the back even with the sides and strip it to bare aluminum like the rest of the Steel Flexed areas.Then paint the upper part with the Rustoleum Camo Green.Then flip it over again and touch up the inside where I put the Lab Metal.I'm thinking about doing the floor in the Steel Flex also.It's OD Green so it should do wonders to stop any leaks.I hope


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## SaltyBuckster (Dec 3, 2010)

I'll post a few pics tomorrow.I'll have the back of the boat painted and the bottom stripped for Steel Flex.It won't be here until Wednesday of next week.So,it looks like the outside will all be done next Saturday and not tomorrow.Darn it anyway.I want to go fishing,lol.Still in the 70's here water temp at 65 degrees,I see a monster bluegill a coming very soon.


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## SaltyBuckster (Dec 5, 2010)

Spent a couple of hours dreaming of being done.Got the outside of the transom painted and stripped.Only Steel Flex left to finish the outside off.That is scheduled for next Saturday.





Ready for paint.








Everything else on the outside gets Steel Flexed in OD Green.




I'm going to metal finish these humps out on the flat side of the rear bottom.Hope that it works out.


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## SaltyBuckster (Dec 5, 2010)

And yes the drain hole is now round and the plug fits,lol.How important is it to get them "Humps" out of the bottom at the rear floor?Seems like whomever had this boat before sure did drop a lot of heavy things in the rear floor.


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## SaltyBuckster (Dec 5, 2010)

I've got an update for $$$$ to anyone on a budget seeing whether they can do this to thier boat.
1. Rustoleum Camo Ultra Flat Spraycans $3.89,8
2. Rustoleum Self Etching Primer $5.48,4
3. Steel Flex shipped $66.37 1 gal. w/od green pigment
4. Lab Metal $29.36 shipped 12 oz.
5. Hardware $9.89

Here's what I have in it so far.It's all paid for.This is 2 months worth of stuff.So,it's way under the price of buying a done boat that I want to change after a week.
$178.45 total so far.Heck,$27.00 was in shipping.


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## Jeff Watts (Dec 6, 2010)

Subscribing. I've got a 14' that I'm about to start on.


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## 89Suburban (Dec 6, 2010)

Good info and lookin out azslabber.  

I never saw a hull with dents like that in the floor, usually they are pushed towards the inside of the boat from beaching! :shock:


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## SaltyBuckster (Dec 6, 2010)

Come on Steel Flex.Get here quickly.I'm ready to go fishing.lol.


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## SaltyBuckster (Dec 6, 2010)

What's missing ?


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## SaltyBuckster (Dec 7, 2010)

Had some free time today waiting on the Steel Flex,so I tied up some 1/16 oz. shad crappie jigs.I'll be in the trees gliding on through with my flat bottom boat yanking out crappie while everyone else just watches,lol.



.
I think that the "Maiden Voyage" coming up will be a great one.


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## BaitCaster (Dec 7, 2010)

Good progress.


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## SaltyBuckster (Dec 10, 2010)

Look what I ran into yesterday.1969 Evinrude 9.5 9922S.Good enough for me for awhile.Started right up but does need a bucnch of little stuff.Been sitting for about 8 years in storage,so I was told.




Almost ready for a fishing trip.A couple of parts and a camo paint job and all will be good.


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## jasper60103 (Dec 10, 2010)

Looks like you got yourself a long shaft, not to common on a 9.5.
Anyway, I would change the impeller and lower unit oil since it's
been stored for a long time. 

Here's one like yours purring like a kitten. Enjoy!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xVi74Kts0pI&feature=related


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## SaltyBuckster (Dec 10, 2010)

They say that the shortshaft on this motor measures to be arouind 18 to 19 inches.The model # says that it is a shortshaft,now Jaspar,I was over the fact that it was too long until you spoke up,lol.I don't know now.The boat is'nt near me right now,so I can't check it out. :roll:


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## jasper60103 (Dec 10, 2010)

azslabber said:


> They say that the shortshaft on this motor measures to be arouind 18 to 19 inches.The model # says that it is a shortshaft,now Jaspar,I was over the fact that it was too long until you spoke up,lol.I don't know now.The boat is'nt near me right now,so I can't check it out. :roll:



It probably started out in life as a short shaft (per the model#), then someone converted it. My 25hp has an extension like that. If it's too long you can make a jack plate for it.


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## SaltyBuckster (Dec 12, 2010)

It's a long shaft,lol.


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## schlifawitz (Dec 12, 2010)

Man, I have to say that boat came a long way. Gonna look brand new by the time you finish the shell. Its amazing what a little love can do to the tin =D>


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## SaltyBuckster (Dec 12, 2010)

Thank you.It will be better.That is just the beginning.I am a disabled guy with two prostetic legs.It will probably be the last boat that I will ever do up.So,from now until the time that I can't hobble up onto it it will be a "Project",lol.


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## SaltyBuckster (Dec 13, 2010)

Yay,Steel Flex is here.Will be applying it on Saturday.I'm in 1969 Evinrude mode right now,lol.Whole new story for me.


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## SaltyBuckster (Dec 14, 2010)

Been turning myself into an Evinrude mechanic thanks to the manual from Jim.I should have done this 35 years ago.I really like doing it.I did'nt know anything at all about this motor that I got.So,I figured that since it did start up that there could'nt be too much wrong with it.I've been in the autobody business for too long.Everything has to look better then it should in my eyes,lol.I was just going to sand it down and paint it to match the boat,but no,I decided to take it all apart and check it out.





Prop removed checking for fishing line.




Impeller was shot.No signs of any overheating issues.Comes apart tomorrow to see how the gears look.Then all back together and an OD Green paint job.The cowl is all prepped just have to do the metal stuff.By then it will be Reelfoot Grasslands stencil time for everything.


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## lbursell (Dec 14, 2010)

azslabber said:


> Thank you.It will be better.That is just the beginning.I am a disabled guy with two prostetic legs.It will probably be the last boat that I will ever do up.So,from now until the time that I can't hobble up onto it it will be a "Project",lol.




From what I've seen here - Who says you're "disabled"? And as far as the motor goes, too bad you're re-painting it. Its a perfect color match for how I'm painting my boat, motor and trailer. Keep up the good work. =D>


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## jasper60103 (Dec 14, 2010)

Good catch on the impeller. I would not open the gear case unless something wasn't working right. They can sometimes be a pain to seal again.


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## Sgt. Stiglitz (Dec 14, 2010)

Nice water pump impeller you got there! =D>


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## SaltyBuckster (Dec 14, 2010)

By accident I pulled the driveshaft out of the pinion gear.I'm trying to get it back in there.I hope that I will get lucky in some way.


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## DuraCraft (Dec 14, 2010)

Looking good, slabber (az is for Arizona, right?)! Are you going to be able to use it as long shaft, or can you make it into a short shaft? Man, you are adventurous! I know a little about motors and things, but have never tore one down like that. I am experienced with those old Evinrudes/Johnsons, and they are tough motors.


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## DuraCraft (Dec 14, 2010)

slab, we're almost chatting here! Posted at the same time! You can get it done!


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## SaltyBuckster (Dec 14, 2010)

Duracraft.I need some help.I took the lower part of the skeg apart so I could get the driveshaft back in.Here's some pics.Any way to get it back lined up without taking everything apart?lol.I will if I have to.Everything looks very nice inside.




Trying to get the driveshaft back in,lol.




I'm waiting for some help here duracraft,lol.


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## SaltyBuckster (Dec 14, 2010)

I'm from Arizona,yes.And the motor will stay a longshaft.Better hole shots,lol.I have a jackplate in the making with a 3" setback.It will be raised 6" as this motor is a little longer then most,even the shortshafts are like 17 inches.Yea,I'm adventurist,sometimes a little too much,Ha.


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## SaltyBuckster (Dec 14, 2010)

All done.Thank God.Got it all lined up again.Driveshaft is in and I am starting to paint now.I'll start with the lower skeg portion of the lower unit and work my way up.That way I can leave the bolts unpainted.Plus I need some sealant,lol.




Put together and it works flawlessly in every gear.




This is what a properly lubed and aligned gearcase looks like.My problem was the shift cradle going over the clutch dog properly.lol.Don't ask me tomorrow what all that means.Thanks for the manual Jim.Maybe,that manual is getting me into trouble,lol.


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## SaltyBuckster (Dec 14, 2010)

Here's a glimpse of what the engine will look like when done.Only a glimpse though,lol.I did the lower unit also,but need to do some cleaning up before I show it to you all.




Here's the base color.It will be Reelfoot Grasslands like the boat.That's all so the bluegills can't see me,lol.And I just fell in love with the looks of it when I was hunting for stencils.I want to keep the bolts unpainted and original looking.


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## SaltyBuckster (Dec 14, 2010)

Went from this:





To this,with it inspected and working flawlessly:





Let's see,what can I do now,lol.


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## DuraCraft (Dec 14, 2010)

Man, slab, you did all that while I was having Christmas guests over for meal!! I have been in similar situations before, and you did good! That paint job is going to look great too. Make sure you get the right kind of sealant; I would check at local boat shop, or online. I know the sealant is very important.


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## SaltyBuckster (Dec 14, 2010)

I'm going down to the boat mechanic that I used to use and get my goodies tomorrow.Impeller,lower unit bottom seal and some OMC sealant.He has all the parts for the early Evinrudes in stock except for a couple that I will order from him.Yay,no shipping involved.I should be pulling the cord while my steel flex is drying this weekend.I just put all the bolts back in so I did'nt lose any of them,lol.That phillips that goes through the housing and through the cradle in the gearbox is a rough one.


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## RBuffordTJ (Dec 15, 2010)

Looks great.

Question: The driveshaft was not connected to the pinion with a nut?

Suggestion: When taking pictures with your camera that are closer than 17" switch to the Macro setting, it will be an icon that looks like a flower, and your pics up close won't blur. You have to hold the camera really steady but you pics will be much clearer.

Can't wait to see more.
Bufford


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## SaltyBuckster (Dec 15, 2010)

The driveshaft on this motor just slides down into the pinion gear.No bolts or anything it has splines on the bottom of it.I'm not a very good photographer,lol.
Here's the lower unit all put back together and done with new seals and gaskets and "O" rings.




All done.
I have a question for anybody that positively knows the answer.First thing is the aluminum extension that is above the lower unit.What kind of paint is used on this?I suppose that it is some kind of high temp stuff,because there was non there after 41 years.I'm going to use self etching primer then ??




Second question.Does anyone have any ideas to get this bolt out of the bottom of it.The head snapped off and the other bolt broke off.It is the exhaust portion of the motor that must get kinda hot during use.There is no water or oil that goes through it.I have two good bolts but they are on the same side.


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## SaltyBuckster (Dec 15, 2010)

I got the bolt out with a pair of vise-grips.So,I guess that there will be three,lol.


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## RBuffordTJ (Dec 16, 2010)

Cool man, looks good.

For bolts you think might be weak from corossion, soak them with PB Blaster overnight, and you can also use a torch to heat them and help burn off the corossion you can't see.


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## SaltyBuckster (Dec 16, 2010)

Do you know how hard it is to find standard bolts in a bodyshop nowadays,lol.


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## RBuffordTJ (Dec 17, 2010)

LOL..yes, and do you realize how sad that is!


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## SaltyBuckster (Dec 18, 2010)

Figures that the day that I want to do the steel flex that it does'nt get over 65 degrees,lol.It will probably be 90 tomorrow because I have so many things that I need to do.We'll see.


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## SaltyBuckster (Dec 20, 2010)

Did'nt work on the boat,but the motor is about done.Used some drill bits and got bothe broken bolts out.Got the extension self etched and the rest of the motor is ready to get camoed out.New impeller and complete tune up,even a new rope and handle.Thanks for the manual Jim.I hope that I don't have to do everything in all them pages,lol.





Here's the extension with some brand new bolts that hold the lower unit on.


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## RBuffordTJ (Dec 21, 2010)

Looks good man.

Hey, on that Steelflex, once you get it coated, if its somewhat warm and clear/sunny carry it out into the sunshine to cure, it speeds it up nicely.


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## cornbread (Dec 21, 2010)

Looking good.

Men and our toys.


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## SaltyBuckster (Dec 21, 2010)

Wait to see the next couple of pics.Everything on the outboard is painted now.I'm doing the motor part right now.Trying to figure out what colors to paint the tiller handle and bracket.I'm thinking camo brown.To break up all the OD Green,lol.Coming in a couple of hours.


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## SaltyBuckster (Dec 22, 2010)

Well,almost done with the outboard.Have a side to paint tomorrow and then throw it all back together and start it up.I still had a broken bolt in the exhaust on the top that I forgot about.Had it about drilled out but ran out of juice in my cordless drill.Early tomorrow morning I will get that one out and start putting it back together.I'm going for the real camo look.I painted with 3 differant ultra flat colors.Will tye them all up with some stenciling when it is all together.




Here's the motor part with the half bolt still stuck in it.lol.




Here's the cowl painted a desert tan.




Here's the extension and the lower unit.See the differance in the colors?


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## SaltyBuckster (Dec 22, 2010)

How do you like the fishing equiptment room ??lol.That's my big Plano Saltwater fishing tackle box.And the Okuma saltwater fishing rod holder full of GIANT 80 lb. test Tuna rods.Still deciding what color to paint my prop.I'm thinking darker green with tan stripes,lol.


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## jasper60103 (Dec 22, 2010)

azslabber,
that's going to be one sharp looking motor (and rig).
I wish you could do mine. Can you describe the process a little more
in detail, e.g. How did you clean/prep the motor and cowl? Also, did you use etching primer
on the motor? What kind of paints did you use? Thanks.


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## RBuffordTJ (Dec 22, 2010)

I see Grandma is still grounded since her walker is occupied. :lol:


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## SaltyBuckster (Dec 22, 2010)

I used all Rustoleum spray cans.That way if it got scraped up $3.48 would fix it.All the parts of this motor are aluminum,except for the cowl,which is fiberglass,I believe.I used 320 grit wet,or Scotch Brite pads in the red color.The motor was'nt all beat up so there was'nt any deep gouges or scrapes to sand out.It just looked crappy,lol.I was a prep guy about 30 years ago.Sanded lots and lots of cars.Doing this was fun,not them.Biggest thing is having a very clean surface with spray cans.And every bare aluminum surface has to be self etched.Especially the rivit heads that keep going bare if you sand then too much.You want primer on everything.No bare aluminum spots.AT ALL.3 coats of paint.Let them dry between coats until it fashes off to a flat looking before putting a second or thiird coat on.I've got 2 cans of spray paint on the motor,so far.Doe'nt take much.Will probably take three.I'm going to use clear coat over the top of everything after the stenciling is done.It's for looks and I like it,not for hiding from ducks,as I don't hunt.I think it is cool,lol.I'll show some before and after shots when it is done.


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## thad. (Dec 22, 2010)

Looks great!
Makes me want to paint my motors.


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## jasper60103 (Dec 22, 2010)

azslabber said:


> I used all Rustoleum spray cans.That way if it got scraped up $3.48 would fix it.All the parts of this motor are aluminum,except for the cowl,which is fiberglass,I believe.I used 320 grit wet,or Scotch Brite pads in the red color.The motor was'nt all beat up so there was'nt any deep gouges or scrapes to sand out.It just looked crappy,lol.I was a prep guy about 30 years ago.Sanded lots and lots of cars.Doing this was fun,not them.Biggest thing is having a very clean surface with spray cans.And every bare aluminum surface has to be self etched.Especially the rivit heads that keep going bare if you sand then too much.You want primer on everything.No bare aluminum spots.AT ALL.3 coats of paint.Let them dry between coats until it fashes off to a flat looking before putting a second or thiird coat on.I've got 2 cans of spray paint on the motor,so far.Doe'nt take much.Will probably take three.I'm going to use clear coat over the top of everything after the stenciling is done.It's for looks and I like it,not for hiding from ducks,as I don't hunt.I think it is cool,lol.I'll show some before and after shots when it is done.



Thanks for the info, azslabber.
Maybe I'll make my rig look pretty one day.
Again, great job.


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## SaltyBuckster (Dec 22, 2010)

It's coming together.Should be ready to start up on Saturday while I am applying the steel Flex on the boat.I think that I'm going to paint the bracket and tiller handle metal BROWN.


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## SaltyBuckster (Dec 24, 2010)

Merry Christmas everyone !!!Still waiting on the grommet on top of my water pump before I can put the lower unit back on.I guess that a Christmas Day steel flex application is in store for me,That will be a first for me,lol.


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## smittles1179 (Jan 21, 2011)

looks great! Everyone is doing cool stuff out there...I remember just 3 years ago...so much less shared info out there. This is great. Nice job.


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## bt4264 (May 5, 2011)

Any updates??


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## RSG (Jul 2, 2011)

Wow, this is so inspiring! I noticed there are no more posts since December 2010! Does that mean it's done and you're too busy fishing to post?


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## gillhunter (Oct 12, 2011)

Any updates?


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## SaltyBuckster (Oct 12, 2011)

I sold the boat to my buddy in Arizona before I moved to Pennsylvania.The boat was cool.But not much more then my last post except for putting the motor together and giving up the ole girl.I'm an ocean fisherman now and am doing my 1989 Sea Nymph project right now.Take a look.


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## weezer71 (Nov 21, 2011)

That's too bad we didn't see the finshed product  Looked lke it was coming along very well. Good job still! =D>


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