# Grandpa's 12ft john boats' rebirth



## gmiller (Feb 4, 2011)

I have been kicking around the idea of restoring and modifying one of my grandpa's jon boats that I am now in posession of for quite some time. I want a boat that I can fish small lakes and rivers out of, and also duck hunt out of. I will be restoring my grandpa's 12 ft. flatbottom boat. As of right now I can't tell you what year or make it is. It has been in the family forever. It has Ohio watercraft stickers on it from 1964 and I wouldn't be surprised if it was on the water before then. My grandpa has been dead for 25 years, I never knew him, he dies a year before I was born, or else some of these questions could have been answered by him. Anyways, I finally got started on it tonight. Tonight I filled it up with water and checked for leaks, removed all hardware, washed the inside, removed silicone from the interior rivets, removed transom boards. I also took measurements of everything that I thought would be necessary for me.


----------



## gmiller (Feb 4, 2011)

I will try to get a diagram posted so you all can see the dimensions of the boat, I will also post my ideas for the boat along with that diagram. In the meantime I would appreciate any information and advice that you have to give, I have already gained an incredible amount of knowledge from the pictures and posts from others on this site, without it, this project might never have gotten off the ground. This boat has a lot of sentimental value for me and I appreciate the fact that this site, and the people that are members have motivated me to begin this project


----------



## natestep (Feb 4, 2011)

That is a sweet ol tin that has probabaly had some good times and storys created in it. A boat like that is priceless. Im glad that you are restoring it. I would hafta leave that '64 sticker on it and clear over it for preservation though. Thats a really cool point of the boat for me. Good luck and cant wait to see what you do.


----------



## benjineer (Feb 4, 2011)

Neat looking old boat.


----------



## gmiller (Feb 4, 2011)

here is my diagram, with some of the mods i have in mind


----------



## gmiller (Feb 4, 2011)

the seat skeletons will be used to help tie in the floor, I also plan on repairing hull damages (pin holes, seepy rivets, dents), steel flex for the hull as well, paint for the boat (probably OD Green), bow and stern lights, possibly a speaker and I-pod hookup, new transom boards, transom mounted trolling motor, silicone on the interior rivets for added protection.

I plan on laying down marine grade plywood for the floor, but I would like to put bed liner coating over that, do you think that is a good idea, or would it be better just to seal good and carpet it?


----------



## trophybass13 (Feb 4, 2011)

i'd go with the bedliner coating. it will last so much longer than carpet would. as well as keep the wood from rotting as fast. on top of that, if the carpet gets dirty, you have to scrub it out. if the bedliner gets dirty, you get out the hose, and spray it off.


----------



## gmiller (Feb 4, 2011)

good point tropy bass 13

also, i was planning on putting in a drain since the boat doesn't have one, i know you can buy the plug itself, but can you buy the actual drain or will i just have to cut that out and fashion one myself, perhaps out of a piece of aluminum tubing.....


----------



## msumoose (Feb 5, 2011)

Don't waste the money on marine grade ply. It is not any more weather resistant than good ol' outdoor ply from the big box stores. It will save you some cash. Get a B/C sanded and the bedliner will go over it nicely. I would get some fiberglass resin and coat it first, both sides and edges (I also would install all hardware before this step, then remove it for the resin...then taping it off is minimized and all holes from screws, etc get coated). Then I would use a light colored bedliner.


----------



## gmiller (Feb 10, 2011)

wire wheeling the boat tomorrow and welding a few pin holes and other holes left over from the hardware that was on the boat, after that the I will begin cutting out the seats and working on the interior of the boat.

I was considering soldering a few of the rivets but have decided to just take a hammer to them to tighten them up and use steel flex. I also plan on caulking them on the inside. I figured that should be sufficient. 

I am considering ditching the idea of a rear pedestal seat and mounting a padded swivel seat on the bench seat at the stern of the boat. I would mount the seat off to one side so that I could have a hatch on the other side to access storage. Any comments?


----------



## nuckinfutzracing (Feb 10, 2011)

I went the rear seat swivel route with mine. It positions me in a good place to be able to work the motor. I stole this idea from another member here, using brackets (they're conduit clamps) to attach the swivel mount to the bench so that it doesn't ride up like they have a tendancy to do. I just live right up the road in Canton, maybe we'll see you on the water when it thaws out up here. Here's a pic of what I'm talkin about:


----------



## gmiller (Feb 11, 2011)

Recent Updates: I have wire wheeled about 90% of the inside of the boat, I only took the wire wheeel to the places that are going to be exposed and/or painted. I tried my hand at tig welding last night because I wanted to patch a few holes. I was practicing on a piece of scrap aluminum and couldn't get it done. I plan on paying someone that I work with to weld it up. He does welding on the side. After my hull is water tight I plan on beginning the fabrications to the inside of the boat.

NFR, I couldn't use a clamp on seat beacuse my rear bench seat is right up against the transom, with no room for a clamp. If I put a swivel seat on the bench it would have to be mounted to the bench, I'm still waffling back and forth betwwen mounting a seat to the bench or putting in a pedestal seat, but right now I think I'm leaning more towards the pedestal.

Here are some recent pics........


----------



## gmiller (Feb 14, 2011)

The boat is at the welders right now. He is going to be fixing a few pin holes in the hull, I am also having him weld on a peice of diamond plate over the transom to help cover up holes and strengthen the transom as well as a piece of diamond plate on the bow to cover up the large number of screw holes that are a result of the hardware that was on the bow. I don't expect the boat for another 2-3 weeks so in the meantime I am making an effort to buy all of the things I need to finish the boat, that way when I get it back I can get right to work. I am also searching for a trailer.

I have purchased a few items for my boat. I decided to go with marine plywood for my flooring. It was expensive, but I want this boat to be done right so I don't mind paying for good stuff. I also bought some seets and mounting hardware as well as bow and stern lights.

I decided to do away with the rear pedestal seat and just go with a bench mounted seat as was suggested by NFR along with my brother and uncle. This will free up some room for me in the boat as well, and it was cheaper.

Here are some pics


----------



## BaitCaster (Feb 15, 2011)

I think yuor Grandpa would be proud that you are doing this.


----------



## gmiller (Feb 16, 2011)

I think you're right baitcaster. My uncle told me the same thing. Getting the old fishing machine going again.

I found a trailer today. $200. I need to wire up lights, but other than that it is usable. I will probably end up wire wheeling it and painting it. It has some rust. I will also probably repack the bearings and fit it for my boat (its currently set up for a 16 footer). 

I"m one step closer!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Decatur (Feb 16, 2011)

You're off to a good start! Good luck with it!


----------



## Froggy (Feb 19, 2011)

Nothing like bringing an old 12 to life!


----------



## gmiller (Feb 25, 2011)

I found the title for the boat, it is a 1961 Aerocraft. It is still at the welders, but I am anticipating getting it back this weekend. I have recently made a trip to cabelas, purchased 2 camo life jackets, 3 stainless cleats, and 2 6 ft sections of marine grade rope lighting to put under my gunwales. So hopefully things will start heating up soon.


----------



## gmiller (Mar 2, 2011)

Here are some pictures of my trailer, $200, all it really needs is lights, but I am repacking the bearings, getting bearing covers, and going to re-paint it, it is a little long, the guy I bought it off of hauled a 16ft boat with it, but it will work for now, I can cut the tongue down if I want. I am 90% done with the grinding, going to try and paint it on Thursday. I plan on getting my boat back from the welders this weekend, I know he is going to have it looking great! I will keep you guys posted.

As always, any advice is greatly appreciated.


----------



## gmiller (Mar 7, 2011)

Got one coat of primer on my trailer, plan on putting another coat on tomorrow and the finishing coat on it on wednesday. I will post pics when it is closer to being finished.


----------



## gmiller (Mar 15, 2011)

The trailer is all painted up, other than a few touch-ups i will do once I get it put back together. I also hooked up the ligghts yesterday and they are functional. I had a problem with the ground because the tongue of the trailer is removable and I was getting good enough connection between the two parts of the trailer. I just ended up running a ground with a piece pf wire to ensure a good ground. The paint on my trailer hasn't set up the best. I had it warm in the garage while painting, but when I would leave for work I had to put the fire out and it didn't allow my paint to dry enought. Today I have the wood burner going and a space heater from work. I willl probably have to put the heat to it again tomorrow to make sure it sets up hard. My boat is still at the welders.........lone story. All I can say is that I know he is going to be cheap and that he is going to do an excellent job, I don't mind waiting for that. I also got the bearings packed and the hubs all put back together and the axle back on the trailer, bought bearing covers as well. I will be putting the trailer back together today and tomorrow. Using stainless fasteners as much as possible.


----------



## jasper60103 (Mar 15, 2011)

gmiller said:


> Here are some pictures of my trailer, $200, all it really needs is lights, but I am repacking the bearings, getting bearing covers, and going to re-paint it, it is a little long, the guy I bought it off of hauled a 16ft boat with it, but it will work for now, I can cut the tongue down if I want. I am 90% done with the grinding, going to try and paint it on Thursday. I plan on getting my boat back from the welders this weekend, I know he is going to have it looking great! I will keep you guys posted.
> 
> As always, any advice is greatly appreciated.



Nice. I wouldn't cut down the tongue unless it becomes a problem. That extra length can help at shallow boat launches.


----------



## gmiller (Mar 22, 2011)

The tongue was a little mangled so I ended up cutting a foot off of it. That was a good point jasper about unloading it at a shallow ramp. I still left myself plenty of trailer for my 12 ft boat. 

I have a steel flex question. Should I apply the steel flex before I begin modifying my boat, or shouuld I wait until I am done with the mod to apply. The only reason I was thinking about waiting was because I wanted to be done banging around in the boat before I applied the steel flex. Is that necessary, or will it be to much of a pain to flip the boat over and steel flex with the added weight? 

Believe it or not my boat is still at the welders. Almost a month. He made it sound like it would be a snap and now it seems as if he is having a little trouble and that he hasn't done much anyways. It's a bit upsetting. I wish he would have been a little more honest and up front about how long it would take before he took the boat.


----------



## TWub78 (Mar 27, 2011)

Looking good so far bud =D>


----------



## mercury jet (Mar 27, 2011)

Keep up the good work ,really nice to see that you are keeping this one alive.


----------

