# Removing Glue/Adhesives - Chemical Experiment to Help U Out



## Shoedawg (May 14, 2014)

These are just my observations from my testing. They are by no means the definitive *“WAY”* to remove glue. Your own environmental conditions should be considered when working with these techniques, such as heat, humidity, shade, shop etc. These experiments were conducted in my garage with the garage door open in 66 degree weather. Your results may vary.

Before I begin.

*Safety:*
Please keep safety in mind when using chemicals and tools.

Safety glasses/goggles should be worn to prevent chemicals and metal chips flying into your eyes.

Wear chemical resistant gloves/disposable nitrate gloves to protect your hands from chemical burns and exposure. This will also keep your hands from drying out using the chemicals.

Use proper ventilation. I had my garage door open and a fan blowing out the fumes away from me while I worked with the different chemicals. A good mask with filter (one that protects against dust and fumes) is a good investment to protect yourself.

Wear protective gloves when operating power tools. Catching your finger on a 3200rpm spinning steel wire cup _*CAN and WILL*_ hurt you, taking away the time you want to use to do your boat project.

*NOTE*: I am not here to argue about the use of steel cups, brass cups, stainless steel cups, (metal vs metal apocalypse) and how the metal chips can get into the microfiber pores of your tinny and then six months later it sinks to the bottom of the lake, because you used a brass cup on it. Stainless Steel is recommended, but you can use other's and I have with *NO *ill effect. Use at your own discretion and do some research about it.

*The Testing*

So I am in the process of removing 14 year old carpet glue on my remod that is a pain to remove without some chemicals and a little elbow grease to help out. I had some time on my hands today and some chemicals laying around the garage and decided to do some experiments and testing to see which methods yielded the best results.

Here are the following items/chemicals I used for the testing:


*Chemicals*

1.	Jasco Paint & Epoxy Remover
2.	Brush Cleaner
3.	Denatured Alcohol
4.	Mineral Spirits
5.	Xylene
6.	Acetone

*Tools*

1.	Steel Wool #4
2.	Brass Wire Wheel
3.	Metal/Plastic Putty Knifes
4.	3M Paint/Rust Stripper Disc
5.	40, 120, & 220 grit sandpaper (Discs)
6.	Spray Bottle
7.	Cheap Paint Brushes
8.	Heat Gun




*Test # 1: The Heat Gun*
My first test was with the heat gun. I set the heat to High and worked on a small area. I blew the heat on the tough glue for about 1-2 minutes, then used a #4 Steel Wool pad to remove the heated goop.



*Results:*
The steel wool did a fine job of removing the old heated glue. The metal surface was fairly smooth and clean, but did not fully remove all the glue. If you look closely, you can see a very thin film of glue still left over.


The process works OK, but would be time consuming on large pieces you may have to work with. It is best used in short patches of work or smaller pieces.


*Test # 2: Jasco Premium Paint & Epoxy Remover*
This test consisted of using Jasco’s Paint/Epoxy Remover. It is fairly thick, which prevents runoff, if you are using it on a vertical surface. 



I applied a glop on a new test area. 



Then using a cheap chip/paint brush, I spread the remover over the glued surface area, spreading it evenly.



This stuff works really fast, and needs no more than 15 minutes to tear down the glue. I waited 3-5 minutes to let it do its work. Using a metal putty knife, I used gentle pressure along the putty knife’s edge and began to scrap off the glue.



*Results:*
The glue came off VERY well and glopped up nicely. The glob stays nicely together, making it easy to remove off the work surface and into the trash or onto a shop towel. It didn’t remove the very thin film at the base of the work area (like the same result for the heat gun), but it did go through the heavy and stacked up areas of the old glue. It also does not dry very fast like Xylene or Acetone does.

I was using Jasco’s on my boat to remove the old painted generic version of rhino liner, and it does a superb job. I have cleaned four panels so far (to include removing glue and paint) with this stuff and it goes a long way. I bought a quart of it, and still have about ½ a quart left. Only downside is, that it runs about $10-12 a quart.

*Tips:* 
I also applied a layer of Jasco’s to the work piece where there was a thin film of glue and used a #4 Steel Wool pad, and it removed it all. After scrubbing the glue off, use a hose or pressure washer very soon after to get a nice and clean surface. If you can, use hot or warm water as oppose to cold. It will help wash away the leftovers. If you let it sit too long, it will dry, and thus not knock off all the glue.

*Test # 3: Brush Cleaner*
Brush Cleaner is great when you have very nice paint brushes that you paid some money for and want to save and use for future use. It does a very effective job of removing just about anything you throw your paint brush at. I had some laying around and decided to see how it would stand up.



I poured a small amount of brush cleaner on a new test area and let it sit for about 2-3 minutes. Then again, using my metal putty knife, I began to scrap off the glue.



*Results:* 
It did fairly well. Almost on par with Jasco’s Paint/Epoxy Remover. It had a consistent goop, easy to discard and again left a fine film of glue. I again poured some more brush cleaner to the area I just got done scraping off and let it sit for a few more minutes. Then I took my #4 Steel Wool pad and began to sand the area. It completely removed the rest of the glue.



*Tips:* 
The Brush cleaner doesn’t evaporate as fast as Xylene/Acetone, but you still must work fairly quickly. It is also A LOT cheaper than Jasco’s remover. One quart of Brush Cleaner can be had for about $5-7 bucks at your local Hardware store, but you may have to purchase several quarts to do a large job.

*Test # 4: Xylene & Acetone Mixture*
I picked up this tip from DaveInGA while reading about his project here: 
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=15343

Essentially I took a spray bottle and added a one for one ratio solution. One part Acetone and one part Xylene. 



I then sprayed the solution to a new test area and let it soak for about 1 minute. 



I then used a metal and a plastic putty knife to scoop the goop.



*Results:*
It scooped the goop fairly well. The goop was a little harder to remove off the work piece than the Jasco’s or Brush Cleaner, but not by much. Still it left that fine film of left over glue again. I applied another spray on the area I just got done cleaning, and let it sit again for 1 minute. Then I went over the area using, again, my #4 Steel Wool pad. It did an OK job of removing the rest of the leftover thin filmy glue, but I had to apply several applications and scrubbing to get it all clean.



*Tips:* 
This stuff dries fast, so you have to work fast. Work in small increments. Take it in steps. Start with the first application to get rid of the major stuff (the first layer of heavy stuff), then move on to the second and a possible third step to remove the rest, using a steel wood pad. Acetone and Xylene are very inexpensive and easy to find. GooBeGone uses these two chemicals in their product and GooBeGone is not cheap.

*Test # 5: Denature Alcohol*
Denatured Alcohol did not fair very well during its test. The glob of glue took some time to scrap up and was very wet to discard. It also dries fast and did very little to eat up the glue. I would not recommend using it.




*Test # 6: Mineral Spirits*
Same results as the Denatured Alcohol and again, I would not recommend using it.



*Test # 7: 40 Grit Sandpaper*
For the test, I choose to use a pretty aggressive grit of sand paper that was mounted to Porter Cable orbital sander. I chose a new test area, and sanded the area (using a dry method, no chemicals were added pre-hand) using a very light touch.



*Results:* 
The 40 grit tore up that glue and blasted it away! It also made some very nice scuff marks. I cleaned up the dust with a shop towel and some Acetone. This is a very effective way of removing that old stubborn glue, while also achieving some scuffing.



*Tips:* 
40 grit may be too aggressive. I should have moved up to a 60 grit type, but had none on hand during the testing. I did have an 80 grit on hand, but did not include it for the test. I will try 80 grit the next time I need to remove some glue and post the results here. The orbit sander provides lots of control, is easy and works fast, but is limited when it comes to tight corners, or small areas.

*Test # 8: 120 Grit Sandpaper*
I bumped up to a 120 grit sandpaper disc and used the same testing methods as above (Test # 7) in a new testing area.



*Results: * 
It worked very well. The 120 grit tears enough of the glue away and does not scuff very much of the work piece. I used light pressure on the sander, ensuring I was removing what I wanted. It took very little time, but not as fast as the 40 grit. The I cleaned it up with some Acetone.
View attachment 4


*Tips:* 
120 grit works very well, and would be a great *“all-around”* sander for getting off that nasty glue. Using a 120g is not as aggressive as the other lower grits (like 40, 60, 80, etc) and does not take as much time as the higher grits do (160, 180, 220, etc), as you will see in the next test.

*Test # 9: 220 Grit (Dry Sand/Wet Sand)*
Again I upped the Ante on the grit and used a 220g this time. 


*Results:*
220g did a very fine job of removing the glue, but took some time to remove it. It added about 5 more minutes of sanding time. It does however leave a very smooth finish.



I then cleaned the area with Acetone.



I also tried a *“wet sand”* using 220 grit sandpaper while the working surface was wet with the Acetone/Xylene solution. It did a very good job and easily cleaned the left over glue. BUT, I only used the wet sand method _*AFTER *_I had removed the very first layer of nasty glue. Don’t use a lot of pressure when sanding. 



Downside to this method is that it does take a little bit of time to sand. You could try a 180 grit or even a 120 grit to speed things up, but I wouldn’t recommend using anything lower than 80 grit. As my testing showed, using 40 grit really scuffs up the working surface.

*Note: * 
I am *not *an expert when it comes to painting a Jon Boat. There are many arguments and debates about scuffing a boat and how to do it or not doing it all. It all depends on what you are trying to achieve and what to do. Right now, I am on the fence about painting or carpet or nothing.

I chose not to scuff up my work pieces until I come to a decision of what I want to do. If you plan on scuffing your boat, then by all means scuff away. Doing it during the cleaning process may save you some time. But this post is not about paint removal. It is about some methods I have tested to see what may work for you to get rid of old glue. That is why I didn’t recommend to use anything lower than 80 grit, but that was for my testing purposes.

Part 2 of this experiment follows below in the next post.


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## Shoedawg (May 14, 2014)

This is *Part Two *of my Glue Removal Experiment


*Test # 10: 3M Paint & Rust Stripper Disc*
It was now time to step it up and switch to the 3M Paint/Rust Stripper Disc. I attached it to my cordless drill and went to work on a different test area.



*Results: *
This stuff is *MEAN!!!* It knocks out the glue with little effort and is somewhat easy to control on a drill. It does, however, leave decent scuff marks (large swirls).



*Tips: * 
Use light pressure and watch your scuffing. You can even use the disc edge to get into little areas. This disc ran me about $6.00 at the hardware store.

*Test # 11: Brass Wire Cup Brush*
I choose to use a brass wire cup brush over a steel one, to see what the results would be. My thinking, it would be less aggressive and not provide electrolysis (I have read brass is better to use as oppose to steel brush types that *MAY* cause electrolysis, again do your own research on this matter, _*see my Note above*_) to my aluminum work piece.

Hooking it up to my cordless drill, I tested another new area with that nasty brown glue.



*Results: *
The Brass cup does a fine job of removing the glue and works quickly. It scuffs the work piece just a little, leaving very fine swirl marks. Only thing is, is that it was very hard to control while on a drill and takes a little more time to remove the glue, due to the size (diameter) of the brass cup.



*Tips:* 
Maybe attach the cup to a smaller drill or other power tool that would accommodate the wire cups shaft, making it easier to control. Light pressure, again, is all that is needed. Let the tool do its work for you. Brass cups run around $7-15. The knotted steel wire wheels/cups I have seen can go from $15 on up to $30.

*Conclusion*
_*So what method was best?*_

I really like two methods that I think yielded the best results for me. The _*Jasco’s Paint/Epoxy Remover *_and the _*Brush Cleaner*_.

Jasco’s does a *VERY *fine job and all that is needed is a putty knife and some sort of scrubbing/sanding pad. You don’t need an electric sander to remove the hard stuff, plus it kills two birds with one stone. I use it for removing the old rhino liner cheap paint that was on my boat. It is *Kind of Expensive*($10-12 a quart) but does go a long way and clings to vertical surfaces.

The Brush Cleaner is another very effective method of removing glue. Like I mentioned earlier, *it is on par with the Jasco’s and is much cheaper*. You have to work a little faster than the Jascos though.

Coming in third would be the Acetone/Xylene Solution. Its very affordable and works almost as good as the Brush Cleaner.

Below are the before after pictures:

Before:



After:



If you have other methods, opinions or advice please post your replies here. Thanks for reading


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (May 14, 2014)

Use a stainless steel wire wheel on a angle grinder.


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## JMichael (May 15, 2014)

A 90° die grinder with some Roloc Scotch Brite pads works well and it's very fast.


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## strander100 (May 16, 2014)

Shoedawg

You did an outstanding job sharing your information. I commend your unselfish efforts.


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## Shoedawg (May 16, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=352499#p352499 said:


> strander100 » 16 May 2014, 08:54[/url]"]Shoedawg
> 
> You did an outstanding job sharing your information. I commend your unselfish efforts.




Thank you. I felt that I needed to post my results to help others out when dealing with old glue. I am a visual learner, and think the pics with the results, will help others decide on what method is best suited for them.

I plan on adding a few more testing methods here. If anyone has tried the methods I used, please share what your results were. Forums like this exist, so we can learn from others and find solutions that work great or that need to be discarded.


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## SumDumGuy (May 16, 2014)

Thanks for the report! =D>


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## borntofish (May 20, 2014)

Great post Shoedawg!!! =D> =D> =D> 
That took alot of thought and work. You are one of the reasons this forum is so enjoyable.
By the way, those are great looking GSP's. We have a one year old male that looks like he's related. He's a great dog. Lots of love. :lol:


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## PSG-1 (May 21, 2014)

Outstanding testing and review!! Very informative. Indeed, a brass wire brush is better to use than steel, and far less expensive than a stainless steel wire wheel (I paid about 60 dollars for a 304 stainless wire wheel for my 4" grinder from McMaster-Carr)


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## Jim (May 21, 2014)

Excellent! Thank you so much for taking the time to do a write up. You would be surprised at how many people you have helped with this information.


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## Shoedawg (May 21, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=352933#p352933 said:


> borntofish » 20 May 2014, 14:58[/url]"]Great post Shoedawg!!! =D> =D> =D>
> That took alot of thought and work. You are one of the reasons this forum is so enjoyable.
> By the way, those are great looking GSP's. We have a one year old male that looks like he's related. He's a great dog. Lots of love. :lol:




Thanks. Those two GSP's aren't mine, just a nice pic I found. I am picking a GSP pup out of a new litter next Tuesday. I'll have the pup home around mid-June. I am excited about getting one. Cant wait to train and hunt with them.


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## Shoedawg (May 21, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=353076#p353076 said:


> Jim » 21 May 2014, 18:07[/url]"]Excellent! Thank you so much for taking the time to do a write up. You would be surprised at how many people you have helped with this information.



I just wanted to give back to the community. I have learned A LOT and seen some great information on here. I am thinking of doing a "Painting Guide" as well, same way I did this Glue Removal Guide. Been researching a ton on how to do it. The paint job will be tailored towards a camo paint job and stencil when I get to that step on my boat.

I am a step by step kind of dude, and need to see pictures, video, demonstration and results. Its been ingrained into me since I've been active duty :shock: :shock: :shock:

Note: I had to update the guide. The Jasco's Epoxy/Paint Remover runs only about $10-12 bucks a quart. It does not run $20 a quart from my earlier statement.


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## borntofish (Jun 13, 2014)

Hey Shoedawg,
Let's see that new GSP puppy! They are great loving dogs. You'll have a ball. Best of luck!


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## Shoedawg (Jun 19, 2014)

borntofish said:


> Hey Shoedawg,
> Let's see that new GSP puppy! They are great loving dogs. You'll have a ball. Best of luck!



I get her on Tuesday. I will post pics then. :LOL2:


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## rusty503 (Jun 19, 2014)

Shoedawg, I want to thank you for your time and research. I learned enough to make my project go easier. I used brush cleaner and a scrubby to get my glue off and it was fairly easy. I would never have thought of that.

Again thanks.


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## Southern Appal (Jun 21, 2014)

Thanks for the detailed testing and good photographs. Very clear and well-done


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## Shoedawg (Jul 3, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=355680#p355680 said:


> borntofish » 13 Jun 2014, 12:14[/url]"]Hey Shoedawg,
> Let's see that new GSP puppy! They are great loving dogs. You'll have a ball. Best of luck!




Well here she is!! Her name is Elly. Sorry it took so long to get pics on here. But here they are as promised. She is about 11 weeks old now and full of energy and good a draining mine. :shock: :shock:


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## borntofish (Jul 8, 2014)

What a fabulous looking dog!! That dog will be pure unconditional love. If you ever consider breeding her, we have a champion line male. Just send me a PM. Best of luck and good hunting!


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## ScouterJames (Jan 23, 2016)

I'm a lurker, with a 12' deep v that realistically won't see much work LOL I don't normally post, but I really wanted to extend a thanks for your time and posting like that. I may never actually use the info personally, but wow, dude - hats off to you!!


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## edwonbass (Jan 23, 2016)

Just read your post. Thank you so much for documenting your experiments. I am about to redo the carpet on my tin. It has carpet on just about every square inch of the interior. It's going to be a lot of work so it's nice to have a starting point when learning how to get rid of the carpet glue. I might just start with the abrasives since its getting covered with carpet again.
BTW beautiful pup!


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## richg99 (Jan 23, 2016)

Thank you. Your hard work should be rewarded with making this post a Sticky!

Loved the way you went through many of the options that we have...now most of us do not have to experiment on our own.

I broke down your methods into two piles ...chemical and abrasive. While the abrasives (sanding/disks etc.) all remove the material, they tend to load up and have to be either cleaned or replaced on a larger job. The chemical processes just get scraped and discarded.

Looks like brush cleaner is an excellent choice and one that I would not have given a chance without your fine research.

Thanks very much..... richg99


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## Shoedawg (Jan 23, 2016)

richg99 said:


> Thank you. Your hard work should be rewarded with making this post a Sticky!
> 
> Loved the way you went through many of the options that we have...now most of us do not have to experiment on our own.
> 
> ...




Thanks Rich,

I really appreciate the feedback and gratitude. Brush cleaner and Jasco's are still my go to's and favorites. You could even try aircraft remover from Rustoleum. That stuff will destroy through anything. I used it A LOT for removing the paint on my boat.


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## Hanr3 (Jan 23, 2016)

I found 180 grit on a belt sander to be the most effective method of removing old glue.


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