# 1956 Evinrude Lark 30 HP Tear down



## Piomarine (Jun 8, 2020)

I have started a thread for my current project, a 1956 Arkansas Traveler Utility I am turning into a runabout. To push this tin can I have acquired a matching 1956 Evinrude Lark 30 HP, but this motor has seen better days! Until I dig into it I really will not know what I am dealing with. Now I am aware that there are most certainly better candidates for restoration, but this is the motor I have and I will not be allowed to purchase another one...I already got in trouble for buying this one (even more trouble for driving 6 hours round trip to get it!)

So here is what I know:

-The motor is locked and I have no clue why (no oil, overheated, sat too long...who knows)
-The transom clamps are seized (but that is a small issue)
-The gear select does move freely, but I have a sneaking suspicion it may not be connected (I have not checked to see if the prop spins while it is "in gear")
-It does have the starter, but it will also need to be overhauled (I believe it is locked up too)
-All of the wiring needs to be replaced, which tells me this motor has sat unused for a VERY long time
-Finally, I know that I will be in over my head on quite a bit of this...which is where I will rely on all of you.

I have the Gilmer guide, I am aware of the proper fuelil mix at 24:1 (or 16 oz/3 gal of gas) it is what I use on my '57 Sportwin, and I have already mixed up some ATF and acetone because I KNOW I am going to need it!

My question for the group is simply this...where should I start? (after I get the transom clamps loose)

I look forward to your input!


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## Weldorthemagnificent (Jun 8, 2020)

I would start with pouring seafoam in the plug holes and through the carb. Pit the plugs back in and let it sit, turn the motor on one side then the other letting the seafoam work for a couple days. Then put a wrench on the flywheel and see if you can break it loose. A siezed motor can still be broke loose and run if there isn't any damage. If it breaks loose, dribble a little oil in the cylinders to lube everything up. Once it's free a compression test will tell if it needs to be torn down or not. If it frees up and compression checks out ok, then move on to the carb and clean/rebuild that. Then spark and wiring. I'd save water pump and lower end for after I had the motor sorted out.

Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk


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## Shaugh (Jun 8, 2020)

the first step with any motor is to clean it... hard. I park it over a 5 gallon bucket and attack it with a coffee can full of straight gasoline (which seems to be the very best solvent for this work.. and cheap) and a big paintbrush. Take the hood off and clean it inside and out... sluice down the entire motor top to bottom with that gasoline and cut all that greasy crud off first before you do anything. Making all those parts clean and easy to work on without having black fingers and hands is worth the trouble... then clean hard with a soap product... 409... fantastik... laundry soap and hot water... etc... that will remove the rest that the gas didn't get... and the remnants of the gas. Even a pressure washer can be used... a motor drains... so don't worry about where any of it goes... it will drain out...

Next step before you do anything is remove the lower unit.. if it's locked up 90% sure it's the shaft and lower unit... get that off and then start to examine the motor... seafoam in the plug holes is a good idea... but don't be worrying about anything very hard until the lower unit is off... do that and let us know what you find.


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## Pappy (Jun 8, 2020)

Great choice in engines!! That will look great on an Arkansas Traveller!
Just to give you an idea here is one a buddy of mine did in Tennessee. 






Not much wiring on these engines so that will be easy however if the electric start powerhead wiring harness is shot it will not be cheap. There is a manufacturer of these that I have used twice so far and his work is amazing. 
Shaugh has gone through many of these engines as I have but he takes them the rest of the way as far as painting restoration. I like to find good originals and do the mechanical and enjoy the patina! 
The engine above is an original 1957 Evinrude. Never touched up or painted. A true basement find, out of the weather for decades.


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## Shaugh (Jun 8, 2020)

Yep that's a beautiful motor Pappy. Larks are special, so you should be happy you got one Piomarine. I'm gonna find one some day. They just don't make stuff like that anymore.... 4 different colors of paint on one motor ! Finding them in that good of a condition it's a decision you need to make with painting. Most of my patients are already zombies missing arms and legs..... so they pretty much need the full Dr. Frankenstein treatment... My latest project below was sun blasted down to bare aluminum... Happy to assist you through the whole process Piomarine.


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## Piomarine (Jun 9, 2020)

This makes me feel good! Thank you Pappy and Shaug! I had posted about this motor on another forum and the first response I got was basically "throw it away and get a real motor." That was really disheartening to hear as I was just certain I had purchased a 100 lb paperweight.

Now that said, I did get some good advice. First thing was that I was told in no uncertain terms was to not even attempt to run this motor without first checking the crankshaft bearing. They told me that 1956 Evinrudes had a critical flaw allowing water to enter the crankcase, corroding and fouling the bearings. I opened up the access panel on the side of the cylinder as well as the exhaust cover on the opposite side and both pistons appeared to be free of rust, but that was several months ago. I put the removed pieces back together because we moved to a new house. I have not messed with the motor since then. I have a couple projects around the house before I can devote real time to it and not get in trouble lol. But it's time is coming!

What level of inspection can I attempt without devoting time to a full tear down?


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## CedarRiverScooter (Jun 9, 2020)

Listen to Shaugh - take the lower unit off. Shouldn't take longer than 1/2 hour. Then get some penetrating oil into the crankcase.


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## Shaugh (Jun 9, 2020)

Pio,
An outboard motor is 2 distinct mechanisms that are held together by about 6 screws. Each mechanism will need to be evaluated separately.

I wouldn't worry about what internet experts have claimed to be a fatal flaw in that motor. Judging from the photos I would bet you dollars that the upper unit will be in decent shape. We won't know for sure until you do a compression test after separation. The lower unit is probably dry and seized. One quick test is to open the lower unit drain and see what comes out... anything wet and oily is good news... dry as a bone is not.... Either way you'll need to get in there. Replacement legs and arms are easy to get in the zombie market..."ebay"...


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## Pappy (Jun 9, 2020)

There is no fatal flaw in a 1956 30hp!! They were good engines. I have a 1956 30hp Johnson on the back of one of Lesa's boats. 
When I was a kid I ran one for hundreds of hours along with my neighbor on his boat. Have never heard of any kind of internal flaw with this engine and I consider myself to be pretty well informed and involved with the antique/vintage engine world. 

Lesa's Lyman.


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## Shaugh (Jun 9, 2020)

Those cherry red 56's were perfect on a wood boat... nice. I agree any motor built by OMC from 55-59 was built at a quality level unheard of since. Products that were designed to last 2 lifetimes. But each motor has a long 65 year life story to tell... some are almost new... used only few times in their life... others have been beat to shavings... either way nobody can make a blanket judgement about any motor until you get in there......

A few photos with the shroud off would help us get a better idea...


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## Piomarine (Jun 9, 2020)

Shroud off...

Here is the four corners view of the motor:







I remembered correctly and it looks like the pistons are relatively rust free but discolored. 





I also pulled the drain plug on the lower unit, and while nothing poured out it was wet with oil.




Also, the motor seems to have been painted at some point in the past and the red paint made me think that maybe it was a true blue "JohnnyRude" but I noticed the badge on the power head and low and behold it matches the model and serial number on the data plate on the carrying handle.





Someone was even nice enough to throw in a new impeller which is soft and supple! I look forward to your thoughts!


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## Weldorthemagnificent (Jun 9, 2020)

It might have got hot at one time judging by the peeling paint on the cylinders

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## Shaugh (Jun 9, 2020)

Ok the flaking paint on the head is actually pretty normal. All these motors got hot from time to time when people didn't pay attention to whether it was pumping or not. What does trouble me is the bolts on the head that are only partially screwed in.. did you do that ? If not then it might be a motor that someone has been messing with and only partially reassembled... that can be a problem... you will need to double check everything because who knows what has been done to it. The rat chews on the pull cord tell the tale on this motor... it's been sitting a long time...

The red paint is pretty normal.. I've seen it on other evinrudes.. maybe they exchanged parts in manufacturing or used the same primer on both... ?

The screw you took out in the lower unit is the upper screw... I do see oil.... you could tell more by removing the bottom screw... down by the fin...

I still suggest you seperate the motor and lower unit... then send us photos and tell us what you find...


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## Piomarine (Jun 9, 2020)

Fear not Shaugh...the head screws were all me. Several months ago I pulled the head to see the condition of the cylinders, they were a little dirty but not rusted. And I am aware that was the top screw, but I don’t have the motor on a stand yet and didn’t have clear access to the bottom screw. Seeing oil on the top screw was at least a little encouraging.


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## Shaugh (Jun 9, 2020)

All right.. so you had the head off... did you notice anything like pitting or a silvery aluminum color on the top piston or head cavity ? That's the usual sign of an overheated cylinder... they should both be the same blackish or brown color.... If not then you probably don't have anything to worry about regarding overheating.

That's a big heavy motor. You will need it mounted on a stand to work on it effectively... that's your first task.


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## Piomarine (Jun 10, 2020)

Roger WILCO!

I do not recall what the tops of the cylinders looked like but AFTER I have it up on a stand I will pull it again and get back to you.


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## Shaugh (Jun 10, 2020)

This is an example of what an overheated motor will look like. That's a 59 Evinrude... see the red paint ? The lower piston aluminum is actually melted...


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## RaisedByWolves (Jun 10, 2020)

Shaugh said:


> This is an example of what an overheated motor will look like. That's a 59 Evinrude... see the red paint ? The lower piston aluminum is actually melted...
> 
> IMG_2721.JPG



Wow that’s ugly!

Looks like it was run lean?


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## Pappy (Jun 10, 2020)

Although they certainly can.....It's pretty tough to run one of these engines lean since they have an adjustable high speed needle. Couple that with the fact that they have a 24:1 ratio and the engine usually will get through a lean run a bit better than more modern engines. 
A few years ago I installed a brand new OEM impeller into a very nice running 1957 Johnson 35hp. Put the engine on my 12' Model R and took off. I was running WOT. In less than 500yds the engine seized. Impeller hub had spun in the impeller and fried the powerhead. Identical failure as what Shaugh shows. Let it cool and restarted and got it back to the ramp okay. Had to re-bore both cylinders and go oversize. Even better running engine now! 
BTW - The red is not paint. It is a product that was originally made by General Electric called "Glyptol" That stuff was amazing.


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## Shaugh (Jun 10, 2020)

Pappy,
It's interesting on my 59 Lark motor that it's just the lower cylinder.. was your motor both or just one ?

It's almost impossible to find a motor that's 60 years old that didn't get run once or twice with a bad impeller... Given the flaking paint, it will be a good check on Piomarine's motor just to be sure he doesn't have a dead volcano....


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## Piomarine (Jun 22, 2020)

Largely unimportant motor news update...I used my fathers day privilege to work out in the garage and FINALLY get a couple of motor stands built (one for the Lark, and one for my '57 Evinrude Sportwin 10HP).  I built them a little taller than the plans called for to give me easier access to work on them without bending over at funny angles; it also gave me enough vertical clearance that I should (knock on wood) be able to drop the lower unit without too much of a fight (but that's a project for another day).  After I finished cleaning up my mess in the garage, in order to get the wife's car back in the garage, I grabbed a screwdriver and pulled the oil plug on the lower unit...unfortunately, just oil residue. Otherwise it was dry as a bone.  So once I have decent access to my work bench I will start tearing into this thing for real!


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## RaisedByWolves (Jun 22, 2020)

Most likely the oil just leaked out over time.

I just rebuilt a friends 68 9.5 and was unimpressed with the way the lower units on these motors seal.

It was also completely empty.


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## Shaugh (Jun 22, 2020)

Looking good. Lock the motor down on the stand then tilt it all the way forward to make working on the lower end easier.... you might need to weigh down the stand so it won't tip forward.


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## Piomarine (Jun 22, 2020)

Well Shaugh, clamping it down is a bit of an issue right now as both clamps are seized, but I'm working on that. I did take the time this afternoon to pull the cylinder head again and take a look...it's not pretty...nearly 100% certain this was an over heating situation.


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## Shaugh (Jun 22, 2020)

I don’t see anything terminal. Looks fairly normal actually. 

You’ve had penetrating oil on those clamps and they’re still frozen? That thing must have sat for years. Soak the pistons, clamps and pivots down with liquid wrench and get it loosened up.

The bathing procedure I described will also help.


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## Piomarine (Jun 22, 2020)

That is encouraging to hear! I have sprayed some WD-40 Penetrating Oil on it a couple of times but haven't made a real concerted effort to get them loosened up yet. When I do get them loosened and the motor secured what is the process I need to do to drop the lower unit and gear case? I am having trouble locating my Clymer guide and even with it, I find it hard to read beacuse it's trying to explain the process of 10 slightly different motor's simultaneously.

Edit:...I found my Clymer guide


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## Shaugh (Jun 23, 2020)

Youtube is by far your best resource... multiple videos on almost everything you're going to do.

This guy's 18 part video from start to finish is a good one.. It's a later 18hp but your motor is completely similar.

Gearcase removal:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gcjx_qd2TuM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YwiWDhW_nPY


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## Piomarine (Jun 27, 2020)

Thanks for the video links Shaugh...I will be reviewing them frequently!

So I was able to get in a little wrench time on the Lark this afternoon and I am starting the process of stripping the powerhead for disassembly (not ready for the lower unit yet...nowhere it put it).  I still don't have a great work space but I have a little room to work.  I pulled the starter (had to drop the cam on the flywheel to get to the bolt), and put a flywheel puller on the flywheel.  Does anyone have any tips for getting this 65 year old flywheel off this motor??  I have the puller on, and it is tightened down and under pressure but it will not budge!  it's bending the washers on the bolts before any movement on the flywheel.  I have tapped on the center bolt of the puller with a hammer, I have pried up with a flat-head, I have done both simultaneously, I have put loads of penetrating oil on the shaft...nothing!  I have it under load for the night, we'll see if anything changes by tomorrow. I think I may need to get shorter bolts for the puller and extra washers to keep them from bending so badly.

I also pulled the access panels on the cylinders again and actually got a look down in the crank case...it is surprisingly and pleasantly clean and rust free!  Any help on the stubborn flywheel is appreciated!


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## Weldorthemagnificent (Jun 28, 2020)

I use a propane torch to heat the flywheel around the shaft. Don't heat the shaft. Apply the heat in a circle around the shaft about 1 1/2 inches out from center. This will allow the flywheel to expand a bit and break loose, especially with tension on the puller.

Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk


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## Shaugh (Jun 28, 2020)

Sometimes it can be difficult... If you have a compressor and impact gun it usually surrenders easily... double up your washers and keep on turning... it will pop eventually... does the flywheel want to spin ? Heat can help, but you will need to turn the ratchet .... harder than you want to...


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## RaisedByWolves (Jun 28, 2020)

Be ready for the "POP"! :LOL2:


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## Pappy (Jun 28, 2020)

Okay to use some heat around the crank area of the flywheel just use common sense.......
Before you pull the threads out of the flywheel I would suggest you place a good amount of tension on the center puller bolt and smack that bolt straight down with a hammer. Shield your eyes when you do this. It should pop off. If not...add a bit more tension and smack it again.


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## Piomarine (Jun 28, 2020)

Pappy, I wish i would’ve read this before...I went back and tried it again with the new shorter bolts and sure enough...one of the bolts popped and pulled the threads with it. I lucked out however, I didn’t have them screwed in all that far so it only pulled out the top 1/3 or so. I put the original bolt back in to check the threads and it still closes just fine...I got lucky! I will be taking it to an outboard shop to get it off at some point.


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## Shaugh (Jun 29, 2020)

Piomarine,
This should be something you can do at home. It's just a little difficult on some motors that have sat a long time. The puller needs to have grade 8 bolts. Check that first. Then put double washers under the head and don't worry about a little bending... all pullers look like that.

When you screw the bolts in make sure they go all the way to the bottom of the flywheel threading... about 3/4" screwed in. Make sure all the bolts are threaded in the same amount. Then tighten the puller to the point where it seems like you're at the limit and smack the top like Pappy suggested. If it didn't work try it again... tighten... smack.... You shouldn't worry that something is going to explode or create a dangerous situation... it will just pop... and stay right where it is...

Like I said if you have an air or electric impact gun... (like they use for tire lug nuts) the whole process is painless and quick... it's just that the socket wrench / hammer method is right at the max capability of those hand tools.


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## Piomarine (Jul 3, 2020)

Shaugh, I did what you suggested and put heat and the impact gun on the puller. I did not get any movement in the flywheel and unfortunately it pulled the remaining threads out of the damaged hole. So now I am left with a flywheel that is still stuck but only 2 good mounting holes for the puller...I don’t know what to do now. I really don’t want to drill and tap a new hole but I don’t really see another option...


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## Sinkingfast (Jul 3, 2020)

Tap the wheel the next size up...its okay. Just do not let the tap drill grab and feed into the coil below. When shocking the end of the puller have one hold up the wheel so there is some play on the crank thrust area below.


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## Piomarine (Jul 3, 2020)

I guess I will be tapping a bigger hole...joy...

I have determined that it is the powerhead. The lower unit is off but it is still locked up. Kinda what I figured so no real surprise there. I also pulled the whole carb assembly and the front half of the engine housing base. Once I can get this God forsaken flywheel off I can pull the rest of the electrical system and finally get the powerhead off of the exhaust housing and really start getting things cleaned up.


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## RaisedByWolves (Jul 4, 2020)

Any chance you can rent/borrow a large 3 jaw puller?

Thats what I use and that flywheel looks substantial enough.


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## Shaugh (Jul 5, 2020)

Several problems in those photos.


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## Piomarine (Jul 5, 2020)

What do I need to do to correct these problems? Outside of buying an OMC puller (which probably won’t work now anyways with the stripped out threads) and which I can’t really afford right now anyways. I did everything you suggested, heat, steady pressure, let it rest, impact gun, etc. I’m at a loss and don’t want to do any more damage than I already have.


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## Shaugh (Jul 5, 2020)

Ok.. let's try again. 

First problem is that your bolts are too short. Notice the photos I just posted.. they are only screwed in a few threads. You need to go back to the long gold bolts that you started with. The bolts need to screw into the flywheel the width of your index finger.

Your puller is upside down. Probably as a way to try to use the short bolts? Flip the gold part over. You're not getting a strong pull because the bolts are bending on the curved surface.. you need the bolts to pull perfectly straight up. Re rig the puller as I described and send us a photo.

The puller was rigged correctly in this photo. bolts screwed in well... straight surface up...


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## Piomarine (Jul 5, 2020)

Do I still need to tap new threads in that stripped out hole? There are still a few undamaged threads at the bottom of the hole but I don’t know if it’s enough to hold the pressure. Right now the holes are 1/4”x20 but I have a 5/16”x18 tap and matching bolt if I need it.


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## Pappy (Jul 5, 2020)

Absolutely you need to repair the threads in the hole!


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## Shaugh (Jul 5, 2020)

Piomarine,
Pappy is right.. let's do this one time and get er done. Tapping a new hole should take you about 15 minutes.

Ok so tapping a hole... read something or watch a youtube video on it.. there's a right way and about a thousand wrong ways.

You'll need a 17/64" drill bit to drill out the hole and get it ready to tap. NO Substititutes for that...

mark your drill and your tap about 3/4" up from the tip... that's all the deeper you want to go.

Have a shop vac there and vacuum up all the chips so you don't dump them all on the mag plate.

Once the hole is tapped find a high quality grade 6 or 8 5/16" bolt that is exactly the same length as your gold bolts.. 

The bolts must all be screwed in exactly the same amount. about 3/4". So the puller is nice and square to the flywheel.

Once you have all that done and the puller is mounted nice and square, take that impact gun and gently give it short bursts...brrrp...brrrp...brrrp... and just keep doing that until she pops....


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## RaisedByWolves (Jul 6, 2020)

Shaugh said:


> Piomarine,
> Pappy is right.. let's do this one time and get er done. Tapping a new hole should take you about 15 minutes.
> 
> Ok so tapping a hole... read something or watch a youtube video on it.. there's a right way and about a thousand wrong ways.
> ...



As to the part in bold, for the drill, yes.

For the tap, it depends on the type of tap used. A *start* tap will only just start cutting a full thread about 1/2" up the tool so going in only 3/4" isn't going to give a full depth thread.

He would need a *start* and arguably a *plug* and or a *bottom* tap. The bottom can be used in place of the plug, thereby skipping the plug step as a cheat if the cost of taps or availability is an issue. using these steps with the taps marked at 3/4" should give a good result.


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## Pappy (Jul 6, 2020)

Once again....I would urge you to use a bit of heat around the crankshaft area and put good concentric tension on the bolts as has been outlined then use the hammer to shock the taper until it gives. Get some MAPP gas and use it instead of the normal stuff for heat. 
As far as damaging the coils while doing this? Unless they are new (highly doubtful) I wouldn't worry about them. Same with drill shavings. It all has to come apart, get cleaned, and be changed out. 
A word to wise at this point. Save your points! What we are seeing for replacement points is pretty dismal at this time.


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## Sinkingfast (Jul 6, 2020)

My point was about the drill bit grabbing at the end and feeding into the plate and maybe those points or coils. New coils will not stand a drill bit any better than old coils. If ya can stop short and use a bottom tap to finish all the better. I use a drill stop if using a hand drill or set the drill press at the right depth. If the wheel has blind holes all the better.

...have one hold the wheel up so the crankshaft is not resting on the thrust surface below before shocking the assembly.


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## jgdunham (Jul 6, 2020)

Hello again piomarine.

It was suggested that you try a 3 jaw puller.
While this May work on smaller flywheels, using a 3 jaw or other edge puller is likely to distort or outright ruin this flywheel. Especially if it already has any fatigue cracking around those holes. The flywheel is actually fairly thin near the hub and will give with that type of puller.
Do not risk it.
Drilling and tapping the bad threads to 5/16 is the way to go and others have already posted good procedures.

I second the heat suggestion. 
Get the puller good and tight before you put the heat to it.
Maybe start light, so you can still touch it but not for long and then leave it overnight.

When you do finally get it off, flip it over check it for crackS around the 3 small threaded holes and the little points adjustment window. If you find any you should replace it.


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## RaisedByWolves (Jul 7, 2020)

Sinkingfast said:


> *My point was about the drill bit grabbing at the end and feeding into the plate and maybe those points or coils.* New coils will not stand a drill bit any better than old coils. If ya can stop short and use a bottom tap to finish all the better. I use a drill stop if using a hand drill or set the drill press at the right depth. If the wheel has blind holes all the better.
> 
> ...have one hold the wheel up so the crankshaft is not resting on the thrust surface below before shocking the assembly.



You are absolutely correct about the drill grabbing upon breakout/through.

I was having a drink last night thinking about this and realized I should have mentioned a drill collar/stop rather than tape.

Tape is only an indicator, a stop is a stop.

The flywheel looks to me to be substantial enough to use a large 3 jaw, but then again Im only looking at a picture and have never had one in my hand.

A picture in this case is not worth a thousand words, but I have never damaged a flywheel using my 3 jaw.

.02c :wink:


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## Sinkingfast (Jul 7, 2020)

I have used a 3 jaw in the past on wheels with no puller holes myself. My concern is that ring gear attached to the wheel. 

For my standup ski with little room to work I made a plate with 3 holes matching the wheels puller holes. Screw the wheels nut on the crank. Install the plate with the 3 bolts so the plate is resting on the crank stub/nut. Start backing off the nut against the plate. Works every time..

When the wheel is finally off I usually tap the remaining holes so they all match. I then take the puller bolts that fit that motor..tape them together and mark them as to what they are for. 

My neighbor tore off the wheel from the hub on a briggs using a 3 jaw. He was very old school and made a repair plate and used screws through the repair plate, hub and wheel for a fix....back about 1971 or so. Used his mower for many years before his death at 96....no the mower's flywheel did not kill him!


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## jgdunham (Jul 7, 2020)

This is what is left of the flywheel from a 1956 johnson 30 that a previous owner tried to remove with a 3 jaw puller. You can see how thin the metal is where the ratchet screws go. This flywheel may have already had fatigue cracks but there is no way to know.
I removed this from the powerhead without further damage but it was difficult and then a new flywheel was needed.


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## Piomarine (Jul 17, 2020)

It’s been a minute but I was back at it this afternoon. I got the 17/64 hole drilled and tapped for a 5/16 bolt. I got 4” grade 8 bolts and re-ran the puller. It out it under load and let it sit for a few hours. I came back and put a little more pressure on it and let it sit. Came back a few hours later and, with help, put a heat gun to it while hitting it with the electric impact gun. Still no movement. I put some more penetrating oil on it and more heat to work it down. I am now letting it sit for the night still under tension. I don’t really know what else to do other than just give it time. I don’t really want to put the bolts under any more pressure, I’m afraid of stripping out another hole.


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## RaisedByWolves (Jul 18, 2020)

Leaving it sit under tension I don’t buying you anything.

It is a mechanical locking taper and will require an amount of force to move just like a press fit would.


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## Shaugh (Jul 18, 2020)

Your puller looks perfect. you're there... just got to make it happen. Get it really tight and try smacking the top of the big threaded rod with a hammer... With a properly installed tool and correct method it can't fail... Trust the OMC engineers that made it so.


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## CedarRiverScooter (Jul 18, 2020)

You might want to put a torque wrench on it & let us know how tight you are getting it. Mine took quite a bit of torque. You will need a torque wrench to tighten it back up anyway.


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## Piomarine (Jul 18, 2020)

SUCCESS!!! It took putting a breaker bar on the bolt and bracing my leg on the upright of the motor stand and then BANG!!! It’s sounded like a dang gunshot when it popped...scared the crap out of me! 

In other news...now that the flywheel is off I have gotten a look at the ignition system...not good! It will need a full replacement (as I expected).


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## CedarRiverScooter (Jul 19, 2020)

As long as you are that deep, you might consider replacing the top crankshaft seal.


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## RaisedByWolves (Jul 19, 2020)

CedarRiverScooter said:


> As long as you are that deep, you might consider replacing the top crankshaft seal.



If I were doing a resto I would just go through the whole motor.

No sense doing a bunch of work just to be disappointed in the near future.


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## Piomarine (Jul 19, 2020)

A resto is what I am looking at...it will need it to run well in the future. Priority number one is getting it freed up though so I am pulling the powerhead.


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## Shaugh (Jul 19, 2020)

Nice work. Don't forget the cleaning. As you take things off clean them with gasoline. Get a big 5 gallon can with a gallon of gas in it... dump parts in like that magneto plate and use a paint brush to wash off all that grime... then lay out in the sun for an hour... you won't even smell the gas in an hour and it will strip all that black crap off everything.

Did you seperate the lower unit yet ? What is most likely frozen and locking the head from turning is a frozen lower unit.

Hard to believe that powerhead is so stuck that you could put that kind of torque on the flywheel nut. If it is you probably want to leave it mounted till you break it loose.. once it's off you will have a hard time hanging on to it.

To break it loose there are several tried and true methods. *But not until the lower unit is seperated*. One is to just take the head off and bang the piston tops with a 2x2 and a hammer... you need to free them up and get them moving.. once you do that they will likely be perfectly usable. After an hour of running they will have re honed themselves almost back to new.... you just need to get there.... tearing apart the head is probably not needed.


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## Piomarine (Jul 19, 2020)

The flywheel nut came off without any fuss...the flywheel itself complained the whole time! It jumped nearly 2” off the spindle when it finally popped. 

The lower unit is off. I got the garage cleaned up and a usable workspace opened up right next to my work bench so no issues there. I have not opened up the lower unit yet to look at the gear box or the clutch dog. Based on everything I’ve seen up to now I’m not too worried about them but I’d still like to check. And I’m almost certain I’m going to need a new water pump. New impeller to be sure. Pretty sure that’s what caused my lock up in the first place!

Having gotten a look at the points and condensers it looks like the points are fine, it bright, shiny metal and they look to be in good shape. The condensers are shot. I’m sure I can find a part number on them but I seen to recall Pappy saying something about current stock being not very good, but clarification on that and where to find some decent ones would be appreciated. 

There has also been a fair amount of discussion regarding top and bottom crankshaft bearings and seals. If I want to inspect/replace those won’t I still need to pull and split the crank case?

Final question for now...how do I pull off the ignition system? I see the plate with the points and condensers but for the life of me cannot see where they separate from the powerhead.


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## Shaugh (Jul 19, 2020)

Based on the condition of everything I've seen you will want to replace almost everything. But the lower seal is probably ok. The upper seal can be changed with the powerhead intact.

While you were turning the puller nut so hard you should have needed to hold the flywheel from turning? If you didn't and the lower unit and shaft are off, then the powerhead is comprehensively locked up. That is always caused by the piston rings sticking to the cylinder walls. Pull the cylinder head off, spray penetrating oil and tap the pistons downward with a soft piece of wood and a hammer to loosen them until they move. Put the nut back on the crankshaft and use a rachet to help turn and loosen up the head. (always clockwise).

The magneto comes off with 4 screws. 2 are on the coils (the one in the middle) and 2 are screws down on the plate (next to the points screws). remove those 4 screws and the magneto will lift off... you will also need to unhook the curved arm.


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## CedarRiverScooter (Jul 19, 2020)

Shaugh said:


> As you take things off clean them with gasoline. Get a big 5 gallon can with a gallon of gas in it... dump parts in like t



This is quite dangerous. Use something that won't burn your hair off.


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## Piomarine (Jul 19, 2020)

So I did a little bit more tear down tonight. Pulled the magneto plate, the rest of the lower shroud, and the exhaust port cover (not sure if that was totally necessary but I did notice the gasket is shot so I guess it was coming of anyways). I then took the motor off the stand and laid it down and flooded the cylinders with penetrating oil (ATF and acetone).


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## Pappy (Jul 20, 2020)

The condition of the ignition system is exactly what i LOVE to find in a vintage project engine. That tells me that the previous owner never went Billy Bob or Bubba and ran the engine on 50:1 mixture! Those coils have been shot for decades! 
Yes.....save the points. Purchase new OEM condensers and coils if you can find them. No hurry on these as you have plenty of cleaning and inspecting to do. 
Follow Shaugh's advice on freeing up the rotating assembly.


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## Piomarine (Jul 20, 2020)

I did what you suggested Shaugh, with the motor laid down I took a 2x2 and gave the cylinders a few good thwaps and to my pleasant surprise, they moved! I was able to to give the cylinders a full rotation with the hammer. I gave them a look when it was at the bottom of the stroke and I didn’t really see any significant scoring to speak of so I am feeling even more encouraged!

Now that said...I did have a small piece snap while I was pounding on the cylinders...no idea how that happened, but it will certainly require replacement.


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## Shaugh (Jul 20, 2020)

Once you get it loosened up I like to put a big drill with a 3/4" socket on the flywheel nut and just spin it clockwise for a while. Keep it juiced up with the beverage of your choice and just let it spin. You'd be surprised how that can heal up even bad scoring.

I cannot place the broken piece.. show me where it came off...


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## Shaugh (Jul 20, 2020)

You should probably also keep your eyes open for a good deal on a parts motor... you'll alway be switching out little bits from one... An 18 horse..but you get the idea... Sometimes wish I still lived in MN....

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/264590474866796/


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## Piomarine (Jul 21, 2020)

Thanks, I will keep my eye out for a parts motor (I’ve been thinking I will need one anyways). 

Here is where that part broke from.


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## satx78247 (Jul 21, 2020)

Piomarine,

FYI, I've been "massing about with" the JOHNNYRUDE Big Twins for nearly 60 years (I got my first Big Twin on a 1955 Lone Star "tinny" that my dad gave me for my "best report card in years", in 1962.) & I can tell you without doubt that you have procured the BEST Outboard Motor EVER made.
(As long as you avoid the 1960-61 Big Twins & ANY of the Electro-Shift models.)

ALL of the other Big Twins are so OVER-ENGINEERED that it's ridiculous.= My loony 1st cousin ran one of my 35HP Johnnys W/O adding oil to the 6-gallon tank for a whole day.
(He told me later that he put nearly 6 gallons of regular in the tank & then remarked, "You need to work on that [email protected]#$%^& motor, as it "gets hotter than H after running it a few minutes". =====> GEE, I wonder WHY it got HOT?? - CHUCKLE.)
I still fish with that same OB, btw. - AFTER COOLING OFF OVERNIGHT & WITH A TANK OF PROPER FUEL, IT FIRED RIGHT UP & still runs fine.
(a MERCURY would have been "so much scrap metal" after 5-10 MINUTES, much less a whole day of running W/O oil in the fuel.)
FYI, I run a "little more oil than required" in my Big Twins, as I don't want to replace any of the dozen or so that I have/use. = I expect my 1955-70 Big Twins to outlast ME w/o major repairs.
(In over 50 years, I've NOT ever seen a Big Twin that is WORN-OUT in service, though a lot 
of them are ABUSED TO DEATH.)

SUGGESTION: IF you have NOT already bought one, buy a copy of CHEAP OUTBOARDS: The Beginner's Guide to Making an Old Motor Run Forever, by Max E. Wawrzyniak III
(That book is PRICELESS to a "shady tree OB tinkerer" like me. - I've literally worn-out my first copy & bought a 2nd one.)

After you get the lower unit off & fix it, I suspect that the Big twin will need a COMPLETE replacement of the ignition system, including point, plugs, condensers, both coils & the wiring, a carb rebuild & a water-pump impellor. After dong that, it likely will crank up & run just FINE.
(I do that to EVERY "garage sale Johnny" that I buy.)
ADDENDA: The place to get parts CHEAP is your local NAPA Auto parts store - Ask to see their SIERRA PARTS CO. catalog.

NOTE: I'm "addicted to" OMC-made SEA KING outboards & buy every one that I find at garage sales for 50-100 BUCKS..

Then ENJOY your PRIZE for DECADES, as it's a GOODIE.

BEST WISHES, tex


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## jgdunham (Jul 21, 2020)

The part that broke is the linkage for the recoil lockout.
The system prevents pulling the cord when the throttle is set too high.
For now, simply remove the rest of the system (the little rocker on the recoil starter)
Replacing it is probably a good idea but you dont need to to get things running.


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## Piomarine (Jul 21, 2020)

Thanks Tex. I actually have a digital copy of said book and had already planned on replacing everything you mentioned (attempting to save what I could in the ignition system. 

Jgdunham- that’s good information! Glad to know it’s not critical to make it run (especially since I will likely be running the electronic start).


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## Shaugh (Jul 21, 2020)

That's why I didn't recognize it. I generally pull the recoil start system off of big twins and leave it off. That motor is simply too big to pull start. Even with that goofy valve system... The engineer that came up with that whole contraption should have immediately been sent to Scott Atwater.... If you need that I probably got several laying around...


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## jgdunham (Jul 21, 2020)

I like to keep them on.
That one time that you forget to check and it gets bumped into forward could be your last. If you are standing to give it a yank and it starts first pull it would take off and dump you over the transom.


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## Shaugh (Jul 21, 2020)

It was already broken and missing on the 2 recoils sets I have in a bin... but this is how it looks:


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## Piomarine (Jul 21, 2020)

Got it free!!! It feels like the bearings are worn, it still takes a fair amount of force to get it moving initially but once going it moves with out trouble. It vibrates pretty hard but my 57 Sportwin vibrates quite a bit too so I’m not too worried about that...(unless someone tells me I should be lol).

After turning it over with the drill I am almost certain now that it will need new bearings and a serious scrubbing.

How do I pull the upper crankshaft bearing?


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## CedarRiverScooter (Jul 21, 2020)

You might be ahead just to find another motor with good powerhead. There some motors with bad lower units for sale cheap.


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## Shaugh (Jul 21, 2020)

You seem determined to take the E ticket ride here... Which might be fun I guess... I'm not really qualified to get you any further down that road though, having only done it a couple times in my life. (having only run across a couple smaller motors that ever actually needed it). Maybe someone here can walk you through that disassembly better than me? My advice would be that a compression test, once you loosened it up a little more, would tell us whether that was necessary, but like I said I think you appear destined to do it all.

Once you resurface from that journey I'll help you where I can....


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## satx78247 (Jul 22, 2020)

Piomarine,

Partner, you NEED a PARTS MOTOR. - I wouldn't even bother with fixing that powerhead.
(NOT RARE or HARD TO FIND with a BAD foot, so usually CHEAP.)

I paid 15 bucks for the last parts motor that I bought for the powerhead AND ended up with a GREAT RUNNING JohnnyRude & lots of "spares" to put away for another fix & to share with other OMC addicts.

BTW, your coils look like the ones on the last Johnny that I got from a garage sale - Straight to NAPA for new coils & the old ones went into the "round file".

Just my OPINION, tex


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## Shaugh (Jul 22, 2020)

What others are saying is that a total evisceration is rarely done unless it’s a special motor. 

You can easily replace major parts so why rebuild?

I’d be willing to bet money that power head is good. The way to know is to gauge it’s mileage with a compression test. Spend some time loosening it up with the drill and atf. Then put the head back on and test.


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## CedarRiverScooter (Jul 22, 2020)

A way to test bearings is to put pressure on the piston at bottom of stroke (like with a stick & clamp). Then turn crank to see how much play there is.


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## Pappy (Jul 22, 2020)

Since that engine was apparently run on a 24:1 mixture I would doubt the bearings are worn. The way you are "testing" it is not a valid way. 
As Shaugh mentioned. Keep oiling it down and turning it. Put the head back on and check compression. Those old engines are pretty bullet proof. 
Let's go this route first before assuming you have failing parts internally.
Perhaps a better way to check a rod bearing or piston pin would be to turn the rotating assembly so that a piston is on the down stroke. Stop and lock the assembly in place. Place the wooden handle of a hammer against the piston and push straight down. There should be next to no movement. Compare the two assemblies.


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## Shaugh (Jul 22, 2020)

I agree with Pappy. This motor has been sitting since Laugh In was the best show on TV. It shows none of the signs of a motor that was worn out or beaten to death. It appears to be all the same parts that came from the factory. Those are all good signs for a motor that can be easily revived.


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## Piomarine (Jul 22, 2020)

All of this is good information and if y'all aren't concerned about it's condition then neither am I. I will check out the bearings as described. Before I put the head back on should I do anything to make sure it is true or to clean it up to make sure it seals well? Also, where do I find new gaskets? Final question for this round...how do I get any debris out of the crank case? I have noticed a lot of crud built up on the cylinders and just a lot of dirt and general gunk mixing with the oil. I want to keep it out of the bearings. Do I need to split the crank case to do this or can it be done with compressed air?


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## Shaugh (Jul 22, 2020)

Motors are made to drain out. So stand the motor back up over a bucket and spray your ATF fluid anywhere you want... just soak it down and let it wash away the dirt. thinned ATF with acetone will work to clean the outside too... use a paintbrush and rub it in to liquify the black stuff.... While you're doing that spin the crankshaft with the drill.... once you've got it all liquified use hot soapy water .... 

For the compression test just use the original gasket..


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## Piomarine (Jul 22, 2020)

This is an admittedly stupid question and I’m almost embarrassed to ask...should I use some of the soapy water in the crank case as well or would that cause a nasty rusty mess? I know what it does in a car but I wasn’t sure if this was different.


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## Shaugh (Jul 22, 2020)

Won't hurt a thing...


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## Piomarine (Jul 22, 2020)

Good to know! 

I am noticing as I work it with the drill that the motor is getting hung up in roughly the same position it got stuck in. 

What is going to be my best resource for new gaskets and linkage boots?


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## Shaugh (Jul 22, 2020)

You need a parts diagram.. then search the part number on ebay. Will see if I can find one.

Make a short movie on your phone while you're spinning the motor so we can see and hear it.

This is cool:
http://www.fiberglassics.com/library/index.php?title=1956_Evinrude_Lark

Here's some inspiration photos:
https://www.smalloutboards.com/e3556lark.htm

manual:
http://www.fiberglassics.com/library/images/a/a7/Evinrudeservice002.pdf


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## Piomarine (Jul 22, 2020)

https://youtu.be/IrYT6UBIPvE

Here is the link to a short video I took yesterday. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Shaugh (Jul 22, 2020)

Looks fine... get it set back upright and keep it juicy with ATF..


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## Piomarine (Jul 22, 2020)

It went back on the stand last night. I ran it a few more minutes tonight with a cordless drill (until both batteries died) spraying liberally with ATF and Acetone inside and out. My plan is to just keep running it at least a few minutes every night until it gets good and loose. 

I actually have a parts diagram that another user sent me a few weeks ago.


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## Shaugh (Jul 23, 2020)

I did some research trying to find parts diagrams last night and couldn't find anything. Good that you have one. Please give me a link to it.

While doing that I got an appreciation for how rare and complete that motor you have is. There are very few actual photographs on the web.

The paint scheme is a mystery... It appears original... but it's supposed to look like this:










That is one of the nicest looking motors ever made imo. Also that front cover piece might be the holy grail of outboard parts... very rare.


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## Pappy (Jul 23, 2020)

I will private message you on a good source for parts. Let me know prior to when you want to make contact and I will make the initial contact for you. 


Edit - You have a message you need to reply to.


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## Piomarine (Jul 23, 2020)

Thanks Pappy! I used to have a guy not too far from me but he closed his store. That guy had every part for every old Johnnyrude you could think of! When I would walk in looking for parts for my ‘57 he would pull up his parts manuals on a microfiche! He was THAT old school!!!


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## satx78247 (Jul 25, 2020)

Piomarine,

SIERRA PARTS from your local NAPA AUTO PARTS store are about HALF the price & GOOD QUALITY. - Sierra sells every BIG TWIN part from circa 1955-75 other than the bare block & outer metal/plastic parts.

ImVho, avoid the overpriced "genuine" NOS parts unless you cannot find Sierra parts locally/by mail.

yours, tex


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## nccatfisher (Jul 25, 2020)

Their ignition part are great if you like to make them custom fit. Or let the flywheel grind them down. Their carb kits are good also, if you don't need a complete kit.


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## Weldorthemagnificent (Jul 25, 2020)

I have mixed feelings about Sierra parts as well. I have had good luck with their coils but I have seen bad points. I mean how can you screw up points? Saw a whole batch of them that wouldn't test closed with a multimeter. I try to get factory when I can and when budget allows. I did order a Sierra impeller last week but I change them often enough anyway

Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk


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## nccatfisher (Jul 25, 2020)

I have been guilty of using their water pumps really with no issues. Coils is what I hate especially on old smaller engines. I don’t know if it just my luck or what but their fit usually has been terrible and I spent more time fitting them than the actual job should have taken. Never that issue with OEM.


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## Piomarine (Jul 26, 2020)

This is not the first complaint I have heard about Sierra coils. I will probably end up using OEM coils for the simple fact that they are easy to get and only cost about $1.50 more than the Sierras. 

I’ve also found that marineengine.com is about 20% cheaper than Napa.


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## Pappy (Jul 27, 2020)

satx78247 said:


> Piomarine,
> 
> SIERRA PARTS from your local NAPA AUTO PARTS store are about HALF the price & GOOD QUALITY. - Sierra sells every BIG TWIN part from circa 1955-75 other than the bare block & outer metal/plastic parts.
> 
> ...



Sierra coils are notorious for not lining up on the mount bosses, The center laminates are also too far away from the flywheel magnets to produce spark at a low (cranking) RPM. After numerous complaints to them they still have not addressed the issue. 
Sierra carb kits are incomplete. They lack several important parts including needle and seat plus floats in a lot of their kits. 
Sierra water pump kits are also widely known for impellers that are too thick and also too thin, height wise. Also known for incorrect water tube grommet size which can be total destruction when they supply the ones with an inner diameter that is too large. 
So far OEM parts do not have these issues for the most part.


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## Piomarine (Jul 27, 2020)

OEM Johnson/Evinrude/OMC part’s is what I used when I did the ignition system on my ‘57 Sportwin. No issues whatsoever. The parts were “plug and play” right out of the bag!


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## Piomarine (Jul 29, 2020)

Ok, so I am back at it this morning and decided to take a look at the lower unit and gear case. I got the prop off (which took way more work than I believe it should have). There was a small amount of fishing line on the prop shaft but not much, came right off. The inside of the prop hub is VERY dirty and sticky with old oil and dirt which I assume is what contributed to the difficulty of its removal. 

So I pull the screws out of the lower gear case and remove the philips head retaining pin. At this point I expected the skeg to just lift right off...not the case. Just for kicks and giggles I took the oil drain plug out and too my surprise it looks like there might actually be oil in there. I had attempted to drain it and nothing came out so I just assumed it was empty. But I stuck the tip of my philips head in there and it came out covered in thick, black, oily sludge. 

So as of now it remains inverted with the screws out trying to figure out how to get the lower lifted off without breaking anything.


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## RaisedByWolves (Jul 29, 2020)

For something like this I’ll use a 1” scraper that I sharpen on the belt sander. Stick it in the seam and tap it with a small hammer.

Chances are someone used plenty of sealant on the rope seal and ya now glued in place.


Of course I’d probably hit it with a rubber mallet first, but that’s me.


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## Shaugh (Jul 29, 2020)

All normal. What you likely have in the gear case is marine grease... that's what they used to use... another good sign that this motor has been sitting for decades. Prop is normal... grease leaking past the seal and drying there over the years..

When a skeg is stuck on I usually just tap it around the tip with a soft hammer... that will break the seal... it will come.. you just have to break it loose. Inside you are likely to find a couple handfuls of butterscotch .... clean that all out of there with a bunch of rags...


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## Piomarine (Jul 29, 2020)

All good suggestions! That went very smoothly...and was disgusting!!! 

The gears look GREAT there is a small amount of rounding wear on the clutch dog and a little bit of rounding on the forward and reverse gears where the clutch dog engages. The teeth on the gears themselves are are crisp and sharp

You were right about the grease! There was a ton of it and it was filthy but not butterscotch colored like I expected. It was just black. I cleaned most of it out. 

Now when I go to put it back together would it be advisable to repack the bearings with new grease? Or will the lower unit oil be sufficient lubrication?


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## Shaugh (Jul 29, 2020)

Just clean everything good. Soak in gas. Spray with wd40. You’ll use oil when you rebuild. Reassemble and put aside until final assy. Grease probably saved that unit. Oil would have been gone for decades.

Clutch does show some wear.... probably a hard shiftin Elvis looking fella in it's past..... but those parts are easy to replace if needed... won't know till you try it.


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## Piomarine (Jul 29, 2020)

Will do. So from your perspective is the amount of wear of any concern of the clutch dog or the gears? If not I’ll get it cleaned up and put back together tomorrow.


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## Pappy (Jul 29, 2020)

Turn the clutch dog around to the side with the least amount of wear to face forward gear. You may be okay. 
When the time comes there are adjustments that are critical to making or allowing the gearcase to live a normal service life. 
We will cover those when the time comes. 
When you go through the case the biggest offender as far as leaks go is the shift rod o-ring. Make sure you change it!!


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## Shaugh (Jul 29, 2020)

My guess is that it will work fine. But as I said it will be an easy fix if it gives you trouble. You'll want to get the shift rod seal and the prop seal, but let's wait till we see how the rest makes it through this evaluation process before buying stuff..... a compression test should tell us a lot.


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## Piomarine (Aug 1, 2020)

I have a compression tester. Can I check the compression in the cylinders with the motor in it’s current state or will I need to bolt everything back up? I know I need to put the cylinder head back on but will I also need to reinstall the carburetor? Also can I perform the test with a drill on the flywheel nut or do I need to have it back on the pull string?


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## Piomarine (Aug 1, 2020)

I decided to put the tester on it and just see where it’s at with everything off. With the original head gasket, and blown gasket on the exhaust port, and no gaskets on the access ports, plus no carb and no lower unit...both cylinders read at or very near 85lbs. I used the drill to spin the crankshaft and it bucked like an angry bronc. It still wants to get hung up in the position it which it froze (which is starting to make me want to hone the cylinders). I can hear the carb port sucking in huge amounts of air.


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## Shaugh (Aug 1, 2020)

What you did is correct. 85 is good for right now. After the motor runs a while it will be even better. That's enough evidence to know that the rest of the motor is most likely in similar condition and has lots of life left in it. Can you feel a rough spot or a ridge on a cylinder wall ? Feel them with the piston all the way down. If you feel something it's perfectly ok to take some 400 grit paper to it...

Now would be the time to start cleaning everything meticulously.  Tear the magneto apart and clean the plate. Buy coils and condensers and points unless you're sure the ones you have are good. Buy an impeller... buy 5 feet of 7mm copper core spark plug wire. Buy spark plug ends and boots. Buy lower prop seal, drive shaft seal, and shift rod o ring.

other things to research. That motor is a 6 volt starter. The bracket is smaller. You either need to find a 12volt bracket or consider using a 6 volt starter with a resistor. You will need a 12 volt choke and 12 volt solenoid... learn about that and we'll talk later... Pappy probably knows more about this...


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## Piomarine (Aug 2, 2020)

When looking at replacement parts and seals, my source (marineengine.com) does not have a parts list for a ‘56 Evinrude, but they do have one for the ‘57s. Of the parts you listed, how many of those would be interchangeable between years?

I have an original parts manual for the ‘56 Lark, but the numbers don’t always line up with modern parts (especially parts only made by Sierra or other companies with unique part numbers).


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## Shaugh (Aug 2, 2020)

Take the part number from the diagrams and put it in the box on Marine Engine.com. You can do the same on EBAY... the part numbers on the 1956 listing are the only way to be sure. I usually just search on ebay : Johnson 0123456....

example : seals

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=johnson+302564

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=johnson+301877

https://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_search.php?part_num=302564


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## Pappy (Aug 2, 2020)

I see that Sierra word again........


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## Piomarine (Aug 2, 2020)

Pappy I plan on using only OEM parts whenever available if that makes you feel any better

Also...what is the most painless procedure for removing/replacing the shift rod o-ring? Do I need to pull the whole shift rod linkage out or can it be done just pulling it out slightly? Also I’ve heard there’s a special tool needed to remove the ring. Is this true?


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## nccatfisher (Aug 2, 2020)

Pappy said:


> I see that Sierra word again........


You can lead them to water, but you can't make 'em drink. But they will always be stubborn.


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## Pappy (Aug 2, 2020)

The gearcase has to be split and everything removed. 
There is a special tool that does the job quickly but you can also use a tap and do it. I use the tool. Tool can be made easily on a lathe. 

https://www.crowleymarine.com/parts/16392.cfm?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkKrd45L96gIViZ6zCh3XIwr7EAQYASABEgLmMvD_BwE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gYSdZiP0xj8


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## Shaugh (Aug 2, 2020)

another video showing the tool.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BRgcg4haPuo

I've seen some people just use a piece of 1/4" threaded rod with a nut and small washer to drive it out from the bottom or use the same rod to pull it up with a bar like in pappys video.


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## Piomarine (Aug 2, 2020)

Shaugh, I was literally on my way to Ace to pick up a 1/4-20 all-thread when I read this. I am going to try mushrooming the end like the guy in the video and pull up on it from the top. 

While I’m in there should I pull the drive shaft out as well? By that I mean is there any real reason to do so other than cleaning?


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## Shaugh (Aug 2, 2020)

just put a nut on and grind it down to fit the smaller hole. no don't take the pinion out.... needle bearings... The drive shaft will pull right out though. you'll need to replace the seal in the top of the water pump cover too. The screw method he shows works for prop, pump and upper seals. I usually grind the tip down on the screw a little so it scratches less...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H52J-XPTx24


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## jgdunham (Aug 4, 2020)

Regarding the 6v vs 12v
The 6v starters will take 12v just fine. The only way to kill it is excessive cranking which can happen at 6v anyway.
The part that wont survive at 12v is the choke solenoid.
You have 3 choices for that. Never choke it electrically, replace with a 12v solenoid from a 57 or newer motor, or measure the resistance of the solenoid and buy a resistor to match. Put them in series and it will halve the voltage.
You will need to calculate current: i=v/r and then power=iv to make sure you buy a resistor that can take it.
Combined, that will be p=144/r where r is the resistance


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## Piomarine (Aug 4, 2020)

That’s way too much math for 6:30 in the morning...I will revisit this later lol


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## Shaugh (Aug 4, 2020)

Spend some time searching around the web. Lots of little conversations but nothing that outlines a complete solution:

https://aomci.org/forums/topic/converting-from-6v-to-12v-starter/

The 6v starter you have might work. We need to test it. The only other components that need to be replaced then is the choke solenoid and the starter solenoid to 12 volts. If the 6 volt motor works you could consider putting a resistor on it to make sure it doesn't burn out.

The alternative would be to go to a 12 volt starter, but to do that you'll need to find a 1957 bracket.

Not sure this would fit.. need to research:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1958-Johnson-Super-Seahorse-RDS-20-Starter-Bracket-Evinrude-OMC-35hp/124282267509?hash=item1cefcce775:g:jvYAAOSwAqxfJhCl

57 bracket... but it might need to be modified / drilled ?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-EVINRUDE-JOHNSON-OMC-BRP-BRACKET-PN-0203944-203944/123524583141


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## jgdunham (Aug 4, 2020)

Dont worry about the starter. It will be fine. Dont bother with a resistor for it either, it would need to be outrageously high wattage to handle the current.
Bring your start solenoid to the auto parts store and tell them you want a 12v version. Same connections and same mounting configuration.

If the starter is dead i would bring it to a motor shop for rebuild rather than seek replacement.


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## Pappy (Aug 4, 2020)

I am running a 1956 30hp Johnson on the back of Lesa's 1959 Lyman. Original starter (6V) running on 12V with a 12V (old Ford style) solenoid. It is one fast starter! 
Lots of us do it.....join in.

JGDunham - Nice post! Sounds like you understand those electron thingies pretty well.


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## Shaugh (Aug 4, 2020)

I do the same on my 1942 Ford tractor. The 6 volt starter works furiously with 12 volts and has worked for years.. I guess that's the call then just don't over do it if the motor doesn't start right away.... put 12 volts to that thing and see how it spins and raises the bendix.

I think on that motor I would also convert to an electronic box outside the hood. Get that starter solenoid out from under the shroud.


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## nccatfisher (Aug 4, 2020)

Those 12v to 6V ballast resistors he is speaking of for your choke are easy to come by, most auto parts places will have them. The downfall to them is they don't do moisture will. You will need to locate it where it doesn't get wet.


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## Piomarine (Aug 4, 2020)

This whole electric start thing has my brain tied up in knots...and I’m an electrician (part time)! Right now I’m not aware that I even have a solenoid (I could be wrong, someone point it out if I am). 

Where are the ballast resistors located?

Also, is a junction box required for running electric start? I looked at them today and they run like $100+ on eBay. 

Outside of the starter I really just don’t know what I’m looking at with the electric start system. 

Edit: I found the solenoid under the carburetor. Still unsure about the resistors.


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## Shaugh (Aug 4, 2020)

I'm probably wrong.. I thought I saw the solenoid under the shroud in one of those photos.. but it looks like they did have a seperate box on Larks:



Sorting out the electricals is part of the endgame.... focus on the magneto, head gasket, and carb rebuild for now...


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## Piomarine (Aug 4, 2020)

I’m actually confused by the parts manual. It has the starter solenoid in the junction box, but also lists a solenoid assembly on the carburetor. 

I know it’s not critical for right now but I like to think a few moves ahead so I’m not overwhelmed when they time comes.


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## Shaugh (Aug 4, 2020)

The solenoid on the carb is the 6v choke solenoid.. we'll change that out for a 12 volt... they're cheap and we won't have to worry about hot ballast resistors..

I looked at outboard junction boxes... crazy expensive... 

It really is just a weatherproof box..... I'd consider getting something like this...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/electrical-enclosure-plastic-junction-box-IP66-dust-splash-proof-125-86-62mm/253389129349?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item3aff2b4685:g:3LAAAOSwIM9eFF-B&enc=AQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkrDx%2B2NLp21dg6hHbHAkGMVwdlTsKYibJ72lIZ78l1Jv93%2BVkuqs8GVrcNFWNU9LSXOCotzx6wLPcjZnxPuRmUH26%2FBiAEoIF6vcVP%2FjrT5J6v2OIdZagCO3SKDA7QBQF%2FzvcxRkSbnZklRijV9ZO5ABvqys4gZBY4EVBNV29zUecULqtb8QldVI2F5EZ525YEWQ%2FvWJUy5eEIEXV1lHEyWGXRHaORoGVdmbms4zKmYb8BX7Q97QPmJn%2BTjqvRX%2B2r2Es5tB6q173MIa54orOry6gW3L5dRQDiTlEv9QPgaikCJSsbO28izjuq8QgrIv6gp1%2B59XEeHkKXmk74VXdC%2Bxhzv99sk7hRjG0%2F9XnZeLUPPML%2FyYhA6Ml3uwgT7M18wBX8kj07f4cDrhxBQalioYT%2BVD%2BpYIw73rcb62MGwvQfRysedWA49vCewoMIOYdX%2BwSbBZ58Kmcv%2BqYrzWwBZhpl90wjomnhyVAwh08DynObzuCuNQagJUUtRIF4WKT1asTKCQ2i6xQAUaj%2FtucYY%2BFX2pLp%2FszyxRtHNFWPkfOsliS7RN4Igm88QuwYiJPyMr1ZRJ9NnvqS%2FGgLPnchPcjAbxI%2FDreNRMYR37SZN8MnxELOhgD4RgYjlFfvmEuN9iVKq4VRYjc7gFr%2BYofRiLvYXSyh%2FaW%2Ffvimq9%2FC0QUdx%2FI0WupGCQ4e2opz5ft92xYtLxgvKqQFbiaxCGKZMOXVLawTMz9gpZgeYfzw5jDKhvQ0x%2FlBTWF3o%2Bc2xPgjfh4o6aI9P%2FOPDjH6YEDxA%3D%3D&checksum=25338912934916a3e33262d64c55a01c5b5c25b86568

This was the lark where I saw the solenoid under the shroud. If you didn't have it there then it must have been in a box:


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## Piomarine (Aug 5, 2020)

I’ve been doing some reading and it looks like an appropriate OEM solenoid will not fit under the shroud but it looks like some guys have used a Mercury solenoid under the hood because it’s smaller and there is room for it.


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## nccatfisher (Aug 5, 2020)

Look up a "Max Power" starter solenoid. They are used on just about all garden tractors. They are small and compact. I am betting you can fit it under the cowl. I have put them on several mercurys.


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## Piomarine (Aug 7, 2020)

Do you have a part number to reference? I looked them up and found a couple different ones. Also would a 2 pole solenoid work? I was under the impression that it needed a 3 pole.


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## Pappy (Aug 7, 2020)

You can make your own "Solenoid Box" if you want to. I have one I made years ago that has a key switch on it. It also houses the battery. Inside the box is the solenoid and wiring from the key switch. I will see if I can get you a pic if you are interested. The nice thing about it is that I can move it from boat to boat. Since most of the boxes you are looking at have wiring from 1956 you can almost be assured the harness will be iffy at best however you can buy a cheap box and wire it up yourself. There are reproduction wire harnesses available as well as decals if you choose that route.
On the choke solenoid issue, you should also have a manual choke lever. That can be used in place of an electrically operated solenoid/choke if you want. Practical if you plan on sitting back where the engine is. Not so much if you are sitting forward and using remote controls.


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## Piomarine (Aug 7, 2020)

I would like to see it thank you!


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## jgdunham (Aug 8, 2020)

In 1956 they werent wired for a real kill switch. You can replace the armature plate with a newer one or drill the extra hole to add a second wire to the other set of points if you want one. Yours has only 1 wire to the vacuum switch to prevent over rev.
To shut off that motor you are supposed to choke it so as was mentioned by Pappy you really want that electric choke working if you are bow drive.


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## Piomarine (Aug 9, 2020)

I will be running a bow drive so yes I will definitely want that electric choke.

Pappy, in response to your idea of making a J-box I did some searching to see what others may have done and stumbled upon this recent thread on the AOMCI forum. It has some interesting ideas on there...

https://aomci.org/forums/topic/homemade-omc-starter-junction-box-ideas/

Now for tonight's work...I made an attempt to remove the drive shaft seal under the water pump plate...it did not go well. After some serious mangling of the brass original seal (which I was led to believe was not an issue because it is getting replaced), the rubber ring and the core spring came out. All that is left is the inner and outer brass rings and the outer ring feels as though it has been glued in place. Any suggestions for getting this out and not damaging the housing is appreciated. Same request for the prop shaft seal. I have seen where some people drill a hole in a 2x4 and use that to secure it while they pry it out but I don't really have much guidance on that.







After I failed to fully remove the drive shaft seal, I decided to finally disassemble and clean the magneto. That procedure went very smoothly and the plate is now cleaned and ready for reassembly...whenever that may be lol


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## CedarRiverScooter (Aug 9, 2020)

I would take a hammer & punch & cave that brass seal can inwards until you can grab it with needle nose pliers.


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## Pappy (Aug 9, 2020)

Good advice Cedar
That is one bugger of an original seal to remove! 
On the box? I would find an original box, with or without components and build your own. Usually a box will come with the terminal board in it at least. 
Try and find a complete one with trashed wiring. 
That thread you found has some good advice and a good wiring schematic.


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## Piomarine (Aug 9, 2020)

I tried using needle nose last night and ended up bending the tip on my pliers! Is there any reason why I couldn’t apply some heat to try and weaken the glue?


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## Shaugh (Aug 9, 2020)

Was that using the screw method I linked ? That usually works easily. As suggested take a small straight blade screwdriver and tap the outer edge of the seal toward the center to break it's grip on the outer edge. Once that corrosion is broken it should come out easily. You don't want to be doing that on the other seals so lets discuss further if you have doubts about how to do it with the screw...


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## Piomarine (Aug 9, 2020)

No Shaugh I had actually missed the video link you shared...just flat out overlooked it! I went back and found it and now wish I had seen it much earlier. There’s enough metal left that it could still work so I will try it this afternoon.


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## Shaugh (Aug 9, 2020)

Starts about 3:30 here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H52J-XPTx24

The fine thread sheet rock screw or sheet metal screw works best. Drill the tinyest hole you can... the screw will easily expand that brass to fit tight. Drill it right at the outside edge just in a fuzz....Grind the tip of the screw down a little to mimimize scratching underneath, but you don't have to worry much about that... the screw can't damage anything significantly. hold the screw straight up and down while you tighten. Don't let it angle off..

You need to learn this way because other seals are sometimes deep inside the housings...


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## jgdunham (Aug 9, 2020)

Regarding the solenoid box.
I would be very tempted to pick up a box and the lower front cowl for a 57 or 58 johnson or evinrude 35.
They are more common and you can use the plug connection instead of hard wiring.

I think a box from 59 is ok, maybe even later is fine too but the lower cowl changed after 1958 and anything newer wont bolt up.


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## Piomarine (Aug 14, 2020)

Ok I’m at a loss with this drive shaft seal...I attempted the screw method 3 times. What resulted was 2 broken drill bits and 2 screws broken off inside the seal itself. I’m really getting afraid that the amount of damages caused by attempting to remove this seal has been FAR worse than it would’ve been if I had left the seal alone on the first place. 2 of the attempts at strumming the screw resulted in the screw punching right through the bottom of the seal right into the drive shaft housing. One of those punched through the wall of the drive shaft housing and this is after I cut the pointed ends off of the screws. I really don’t know where to go from here and can not afford to buy a new lower unit. How screwed am I?


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## Pappy (Aug 14, 2020)

Not sure how screwed you are until the seal comes out. 
I still want you to take a small flat blade screwdriver and tap the sides of the seal inward...all the way around. Then try and grab the pieces with a pair of side cutters or similar and try and pry it up and out. Use another screwdriver or something to lay the side cutters against while prying to protect the housing. 
Try this first then we will get a bit more drastic if need be.


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## Piomarine (Aug 14, 2020)

Could I start applying some direct heat to the seal to hopefully soften whatever adhesive they used? Also what should I do about the 2 broken screws that are stuck inside and basically mechanically fastening the seal to the lower unit?


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## Shaugh (Aug 14, 2020)

When things first start looking like that you should probably just stop immediately.. In retrospect the screw method on that seal might have been a bad idea after it was that chewed up... it doesn't have the structural integrity it needs for the screw to push against...

Do what Pappy suggests..... take a small flat screwdriver and drive the edge of the seal inward... it's just a thin piece of sheet metal and should fold fairly easily. Drive it inward till you can grab it with a sidecutter or a needle nose and just twist it out of there... whatever damage was done should not be serious... It can be fixed...


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## Pappy (Aug 16, 2020)

I am glad Shaugh went there first. Keeps me from being seen as the hardass...  
This style of seal does not lend itself to the screw method well at all. The material and design are vastly different than more modern seals. That is 20/20 hindsight at this point however.


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## Piomarine (Aug 16, 2020)

Thank you for not being to hard on me for making such a stupid rookie mistake like that. The knowledge and support I get from the community here is awesome and why I have left other online communities. 

The seal did finally come out. I have been talking to Shaugh about the damage from attempting the screw method. The screws ran behind the driveshaft bushing and destroyed it so now I need to find a way to either remove that bushing or force it back into round and file down any burs and edges. One screw is still lodged behind it and broken off.


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## CedarRiverScooter (Aug 16, 2020)

You should replace that bushing. If you can't find an OEM one, any machine shop can replicate it easily. Check a bearing supply store, they may have one that is close & you can just ream it to size.


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## Piomarine (Aug 16, 2020)

The bushing is easy to get, it’s the getting it out part I am scratching my head over. I have been advised that the path of least resistance would be to pull the pinion gear and associated bearings and tap it out from the top. I have also been advised that pulling those bearings...sucks...advice on the subject would be greatly appreciated.


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## Shaugh (Aug 16, 2020)

Several mistakes were made. I'll take the blame if needed...

Number one is that the shaft is usually left in place.. the screw usually lodges between the shaft and bushing and creates minimal damage... should have thought of that...

Number 2 was recommending sharp hard brittle drywall screws..... but that's what the guy in the movie used.... should have thought that through better...

Number 3 was not putting emphasis on doing this gradually... side to side as the seal slowly comes straight out... you can't do it all in one quick move.


The idea was to learn how to do the screw method because as far as I know there is no other way to do the upper seal... He's getting ready to try that one so if anyone else has an idea let's hear it...

I think with the correct steel screw and a very rounded nose the screw method is the right way to do it...


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## Shaugh (Aug 16, 2020)

Regarding the bushing problem... 

If the screw wasn't broke off in there you could just pound it all back flat with a tapered 5/8" shaft and grind it down a little. That's a big bushing and that little damage on an end would be no problem.

But the screw is a big problem.. with it there you likely won't be able to drive out the bushing either... my suggestion would be to machine out the entire top of that bushing with something like this:

https://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-titanium-nitride-coated-high-speed-steel-step-drills-96275.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiNjAzODM2OTYiLCJza3UiOiI5NjI3NSIsImlzIjoiMTIuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk%0D%0AIjoiMzQ0NiJ9%0D%0A&cid=paid_google|*PLA+-+All+Products|All+Products|96275&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=*PLA+-+All+Products&utm_content=All+Products&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4sfn-Oqg6wIVrgOzAB37RQGeEAYYBiABEgIb4fD_BwE

I bet you could drill that down in there and remove all that damage... and when you're done the housing will still be perfectly usuable.... the one on the right.. shaft is 5/8". aluminum housing is 3/4"... drill it down carefully and remove the screw piece as soon as you can.. anyone with other ideas ?


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## Shaugh (Aug 16, 2020)

this one is better... it's maximum diameter is 3/4"... it will cleanly remove the bushing all the way down if needed... but I suspect you'll be able to stop as soon as the screw is gone... and not even replace the bushing...

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/titan-1-4-in.-to-3-4-in.-step-drill-bit-16504/12059989-p?product_channel=local&store=3150&adtype=pla&product_channel=local&store_code=3150&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7YHK4O-g6wIVCYiGCh3HOwsYEAQYAiABEgJ1_vD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds


or this might work even better:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SGS-3-4-Carbide-Rotary-Burr-File-Single-Cut-Tree-American-Made-1-2-7/321901407847?hash=item4af2d1ae67:g:QfsAAOxy3hJSTzDq

Grind out as much of the old one as you need to get past the screw and the damage... then cut a piece of this and drive it in :

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/bronze-sleeve-bearing-5-8-in-inner-dia-x-3-4-in-outer-dia-x-1-1-8-in-length


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## RaisedByWolves (Aug 17, 2020)

I use a slap hammer and a two jaw internal puller.

Then again I have that on hand.

It will do the seal and bushing if you can find one.

Maybe it can be rented?


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## Piomarine (Aug 17, 2020)

Well I used a hybrid of ideas here a unibit to deburr and bring back into round and low and behold it popped right back into shape. I took it down 1 step on the top and cut into the screw a little bit. I then took a sanding tip on the dremel and ground everything down to level. I also used it to clean up some of the tool marks. I then reemed it out, deburred again and cleaned out all shavings and dust. The drive shaft now sits true and spins without resistance (though it could use a little grease).


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## Pappy (Aug 17, 2020)

Wow....well done, Sir!


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## Shaugh (Aug 17, 2020)

Good for another 2 lifetimes..... Now on to the next one....


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## RaisedByWolves (Aug 23, 2020)

Bump.

Any progress?


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## Piomarine (Aug 23, 2020)

There has not been any progress as of late. I’m a high school teacher and school has started for us so that has been my main focus. 

My next project is going to be a thorough scrubbing of everything and pulling the top crankshaft seal. Once I can get all of the seals, ignition parts, and new rubber and gaskets in hand I will start reassembly. 

I still need to figure out how to get the motor clamp screws unfrozen. Also I am still getting a slight hitch in the cylinders where the motor was frozen. The walls feel smooth and there is no corrosion but even still it just want to slightly hang up when I spin it with a socket wrench. It is so much more loose than it was though, and getting better the more I spin it.


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## jgdunham (Aug 24, 2020)

You may want to make or buy a seal puller for the top seal. Cracking the ring that extends up from the block is very bad.


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## Piomarine (Aug 30, 2020)

JGDunham do you have some suggestions for making a puller for the top seal?


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## Shaugh (Aug 30, 2020)

There's no bronze under the upper seal, just a hardened steel bearing.

the other way to do it is with a slide puller:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kKBx0hemaWY

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BUI5X6Q?pf_rd_r=XNEKP7SAC85DSXYPEJWE&pf_rd_p=edaba0ee-c2fe-4124-9f5d-b31d6b1bfbee


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## Piomarine (Sep 5, 2020)

So I was back at it tonight. I attempted the screw method on the crankshaft seal and I must be cursed with this method! I attempted it twice and when it didn’t work I stopped and here I am. 

I used a stainless steel, fine threaded sheet metal screw. Drilled a small hole at the transition and ran the screw by hand. It hit hard bottom and began to turn and wouldn’t track straight and didn’t lift the seal at all. Ultimately it stripped out the holes and stripped the threads off of the screw. 

Again...I’m at a loss

Also, I discovered a crack in the magneto cam. I assume this will need replacing.


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## CedarRiverScooter (Sep 6, 2020)

Hey there Pio - When pulling a seal with screw, you don't want to bottom it out. Just get the threads to bite then pull on the head with a lever.


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## Piomarine (Sep 6, 2020)

Thank you! That’s exactly what I needed. It came right out!!!

Any opinions about the crack in the magneto cam?

Also, is it possible/advisable to hone the cylinders with the block still intact? That little hiccup when in the position where it froze is concerning me. I have felt around the cylinders and they feel fine, I have rubbed some sand paper in there but there’s no change. Could it be pointing to a problem somewhere else??


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## CedarRiverScooter (Sep 6, 2020)

I think you can get a new points cam for small money. It pulls off. You might need a new key for it too.

So what is your goal? 

If you want a motor that will not fail, you will need to do a full teardown/inspection/machining/rebuild.

If you just want to boat where someone else will be around to tow you in, just get it running, have some fun with it, & keep your fingers crossed.


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## Shaugh (Sep 6, 2020)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Johnson-Evinrude-Outboard-Motor-Cam-0510169-510169/174052502273?epid=1837540851&hash=item2886566b01:g:KkkAAOSwxYpdllbT

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Johnson-Evinrude-OMC-302602-Key-Cobra/283340534707?epid=1151297432&hash=item41f86973b3:g:b7EAAOSwWtFcPnaz


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## Piomarine (Sep 6, 2020)

The woodruff key I have for it is in good shape so no worries there but I will plan to replace the mag cam. 

CRS to your question I guess if pressed I would lean more towards the latter. The only reasons for that are simply time, money, and skill! I don’t posses the money for a $1200 professional inspection, overhaul, and rebuild, and I don’t have the time or the skill to do one myself. My goal with this motor is to have something that I can be reasonably assured will work when I need it to. I do not play on unpopulated lakes. 

From what I have seen thus far it does not look like this motor was “rode hard and put up wet!” It looks like whoever had it before me too care of it while they were using it and abandoned it when it overheated and seized. 

I hope that gives a little perspective about where I’m at and what I’m looking to get out of it.


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## Shaugh (Sep 6, 2020)

You're getting there one step at a time. I personally wouldn't worry about the tight spot. the best hone job in the world is a motor running at 3000 RPM for a while.... Get there and see if you still need to worry about it. That super seahorse in the other thread had the same.

I'd enjoy restoring your hood if you would send it to me. Just pay for the shipping back to you ? Would be an nice winter project.


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## Piomarine (Sep 6, 2020)

The project is yours!!! Just text me.


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## Piomarine (Sep 7, 2020)

I have asked this question a few times but always in conjunction with more pressing matters. My mounting screws are still frozen and I have tried everything I know to do heat, penetrating oil,both, padded channel locks...I’m at a loss!

The tilt assembly is also frozen but as far as I can tell it’s just really dirty. Any tips for disassembling and cleaning this assembly is needed, especially with 2 large springs involved.


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## Weldorthemagnificent (Sep 7, 2020)

Using heat to loosen a stuck fastener, you have to heat the area around the bolt quickly. Once the heat soaks into the bolt, it will expand at the same rate as the surrounding material. Propane torch is sometimes enough but sometimes it takes to long allowing the heat to soak through. I prefer to use an acetylene torch, however extreme care must be taken not to overheat and melt the aluminum! Keep at it. Using your propane torch, heat around one clamp bolt about an inch away from the bolt. Move the heat quickly around the bolt area and try cranking the bolt back and forth. Sometimes only a little heat is needed and sometimes a lot, so keep trying the bolt as you heat. Penetrating oil between rounds. Good luck!

Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk


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## Shaugh (Sep 7, 2020)

They've been soaking forever already so they're not going to magically start working.... The bigger hammer is your only choice imo. Put a 2 ft piece of 1" conduit over the handle and see if that works to break them loose. Worse case is you break the handle, but new ones are easy to get. 

If you want to try to preserve the handle you could drill it out and try a big crescent wrench on the flats... Odds are the conduit will work... Heat could also help but I think they are likely welded together with corrosion and the only real solution is more force... applied gradually...


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## Piomarine (Sep 7, 2020)

I will try the pipe. Any ideas for the tilt and motor angle system? The lock/release tab doesn’t move and I can’t move the pin to change the motor angle.


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## Shaugh (Sep 7, 2020)

Get the clamps working so you can tighten the motor down to the mount. Then try moving it by grabbing down by the skeg.


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## jgdunham (Sep 13, 2020)

Are the clamps stuck in or out? Evidence of any white al oxide in them? How do the exposed threads look?


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## Piomarine (Sep 13, 2020)

The clamps are just gummed up with debris. There is no white oxide on them that have seen. Using Shaugh’s 1” pipe I was able to free up one side no problem. I can now spin it with a finger. The other side broke the handle without even thinking about it...I still haven’t found the other half of it. Using patients as well as some heat and a fair amount of WD-40 I have gotten that side to move a little bit. I just bought a #10x2” bolt that I will run through the eyelet and make a temp handle out of a piece of oak. 

Once it is freed up I figure I have a choice. The various tools used to free it up also did a fair number on the aluminum (even through attempts to protect it. Being that it is a non critical part, I figure I can sand the aluminum smooth again, throw a new handle on it and go about my day. Or back it all the way out and replace the whole screw clamp...but that seems excessive. 

I will need a new pair of handles anyways. One broke trying to free it, the other one already had the tip broken off.


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## Shaugh (Sep 13, 2020)

You did what you had to do. Clamps need to be 100% to hold that beast on a boat... so if the other one looks even questionable replace both of them... these newer ones have the bolted on foot... easy peasy...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Evinrude-and-Johnson-OEM-Transom-Clamp-Kit-Part-433675/313006453192?epid=1445111462&hash=item48e0a371c8:g:zNwAAOSwTz1eUKPY


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## LDUBS (Sep 13, 2020)

There is a sticky in this forum about the best penetrating fluid being equal parts acetone & automatic transmission fluid.


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## Piomarine (Sep 13, 2020)

I’ve been soaking it in that exact mix for months


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## RaisedByWolves (Sep 13, 2020)

LDUBS said:


> There is a sticky in this forum about the best penetrating fluid being equal parts acetone & automatic transmission fluid.



This.

WD40 is crap for a penetrant.


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## Piomarine (Sep 13, 2020)

I am aware of this. I have already been using the ATF and acetone through this whole process...I use it for everything. For this particular piece of the project, I grabbed WD-40 because: 
A. It was close at hand and my spray bottle of ATF mix was empty 
B. I wasn’t looking for a penetrating oil, I just wanted something that would lubricate the threads as it started to move, which it did beautifully on the side that freed up. 

ATF and acetone was critical in getting my pistons unfrozen!


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## jgdunham (Sep 14, 2020)

There is a little retaining ring on the inside of the foot you can pry off and then back the screw all the way out. If you dont take the clip off First it will strip the groove off the end of the threaded part.
Once out you can chase the threads in the transom mount and assess the old clamps and either clean the threads or replace them.
The handle with the broken loop will work fine unless you need to lock them for security.
In reality, you can leave the other without a handle and tighten it with an adjustable wrench for the time being.

Even with the clamps properly tightened down, you should run a rope or chain to the eyelet on the transom mount and down to something solid in the boat. If it ever loosens and jumps off it will get wet but it wont go to the bottom.


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## CedarRiverScooter (Sep 14, 2020)

Additional idea would be to run some safety wire thru the clamp handles, or in your case the handle hole.


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## Piomarine (Sep 15, 2020)

When life gives you adversity attack it...with a nice Harry piece of American white oak! Made a temp handle out of a piece of oak I had laying around...it worked beautifully!!! I got the clamp screw freed up and it spins nice and easy now! If fact I was able to get the clamp tight enough in the stand that when I went to loosen it the bolt I was using for a pin sheered off in 2 places. Turns out the oak was more rigid than the steel. In any event, the motor is now securely fastened to the stand.

Now that that is taken care of, I would like to focus on getting the tilt freed up. To do that I need to know the procedure for releasing/adjusting the tilt pin. I can get the lock/release lever to move...sort of...but once in the release position how do I adjust the pin to tilt the motor? It is totally different than my Sportwin and I am confused.


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## Shaugh (Sep 15, 2020)

First thing to do is make sure your stand is strong... If doubtful add a few boards to it... I recall a photo and it looked pretty minimal.

Once you're sure it's not going fall apart, grab the bottom of the housing and try to raise / pivot the motor forward. That's a long lever and should be enough to break loose any corrosion... Once it's up you can deal with the other parts. Is the side clamp screw loose ?


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## Piomarine (Sep 16, 2020)

I tried that and I can’t get it to move. I can’t tell if it’s just corrosion in the pivot pin or if there is something that needs to be released to move it. The release tab does move but not well and I’m not 100% certain it’s actually releasing it to pivot.


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## CedarRiverScooter (Sep 16, 2020)

Maybe your model is different, but every OMC I have ever seen has the same lock pawl that grabs the trim pin.

Can you take a picture of this area? (adjustable trim cross pin). You might be able to get a screwdriver to pry up the lock pawl. As long as that is engaged, it won't go anywhere.


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## jgdunham (Sep 16, 2020)

You can also loosen the nut on the end of the tilt pivot bolt until you have things moving. It just squeezes down a spring to adjust the tilt friction.
The release mentioned is right below the id tag on the transom mount. You can also do it manually down on the leg by lifting the latch off the pin.


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## Piomarine (Sep 17, 2020)

CRS ask and you shall receive! I noticed the release tab is bent a little as well.


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## CedarRiverScooter (Sep 17, 2020)

I would take the whole thing apart & clean up all the joints inside & out. Soaking isn't going to get you there. Get new hardware where needed too.

You are probably going to have to pound the pivot bolt out with hammer & drift.


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## Shaugh (Sep 18, 2020)

As others have suggested, I think the best course would be to loosen the pivot bolt and get it moving by drifting it with a punch. Once it's loose (but not out) I'd cut a 2x4 that I would stick up into the exhaust housing to give me a longer lever..... Put your foot on the back of the stand and lift.... there's not much that could stop that.. if the pivot is moving but the hooks are attached you'll be able to feel that... and see it.... but first you have to break the welds... Once it's up you can easily evaluate what else is going on in there.

I also have no idea what this metal rod is for...maybe a tilt lock ? Not standard... Not on any motor I've ever seen before... anyone else know ?


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## Piomarine (Sep 18, 2020)

I was curious about that myself...I’ve never seen one of those on a motor like this. Comments from the peanut gallery are welcomed!


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## CedarRiverScooter (Sep 18, 2020)

I had one of those years ago, it's for trailering.


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## Piomarine (Sep 18, 2020)

What does it do? What’s the purpose? How does it work?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## CedarRiverScooter (Sep 18, 2020)

It holds the motor up in tilt position. Once you get it to tilt, it should be obvious how it works.


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## Shaugh (Jan 4, 2021)

I'll keep Piomarine's thread from sinking completely out of sight... I know he's busy as a teacher.


He sent me his hood to be repainted.






At first glance it looked pretty rough. But once I got it taken apart and sanded down it's actually in really good shape... no filler or body work needed:







A couple guide coats with etching primer and some more sanding and it's looking factory fresh:


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## Shaugh (Jan 4, 2021)

Plan is to try to duplicate this as close as we can:



Other examples on line have all been repainted or the gold has faded away...






Can anyone confirm that the gold on the front door actually did come that way from the factory ?... I know gold paint from that era faded quickly like a Scott Atwater gold pennant motor...


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## Piomarine (Jan 4, 2021)

I’m so glad you asked me to take this on! I just get more excited to see it with every picture you send!!!


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## Shaugh (Jan 4, 2021)

Badges:


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## Piomarine (Jan 4, 2021)

Sweet!!! Is that the same gold you used on the Golden Javelin?


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## Pappy (Jan 4, 2021)

I was just thinking about this project and wondering if you were still working on it.


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## Shaugh (Jan 4, 2021)

This is a good match .... not too shiny...

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7275830-Stops-Metallic-Burnished/dp/B000MRS1YI/ref=pd_lpo_60_t_2/144-3072521-7227121?


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## Piomarine (Jan 4, 2021)

I just put together my needed parts list, now I’m just trying to figure out how to pay for it lol. I’m looking at about $250 in replacement parts just to get it running with manual start. The electric start set up will add to that. I am going to work from the bottom up. Rebuild the gear case with all new seals and get the lower unit put back together. I will then work on the crank case, get it cleaned up real good and replace all of the gaskets and rubber. Then I’m thinking the magneto, and finishing it off with the carb rebuild. 

I managed to find OEM parts for most of it, but there are some that just don’t exist as OEM parts anymore and for those I will probably go with the Sierra parts. For others I managed to find NOS but the price was so outrageously high that Sierra became the more cost effective option. I can give a more detailed list tomorrow. It’s on my work computer.


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## Shaugh (Jan 6, 2021)

Detail work done. Absolutely brutal painting 4 colors with raw edges on stainless steel. I can't imagine how this got done in production...
Once these are clear coated they'll look like jewels...


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## Weldorthemagnificent (Jan 6, 2021)

Beautiful

Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk


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## Piomarine (Jan 6, 2021)

Holy crap, that looks great!!! I am becoming happier every day that I sent this to you!!!


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## Shaugh (Jan 16, 2021)

A few days for the paint to completely cure and it will be ready to send back.


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## Weldorthemagnificent (Jan 16, 2021)

All I can say is that boat better be spit polished or that motor is going to make it look like a turd!

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## CedarRiverScooter (Jan 16, 2021)

3X better gloss than when it was new!


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## Shaugh (Jan 17, 2021)

I think most things were pretty glossy back in those days. If you look at good quality films of new cars they have mirror shines. I don't think it lasted long though. Unlike outboards, most cars were made to last only a few years before they rusted out, so the paint technology didn't need to be like paints are today.

A restored motor will never be exactly like it was 65 years ago no matter what you do. But what it can do is recreate some of that beauty and pride of ownership that you must have felt when you put down a months wages for one of these things.

When I make a boat or a motor I want to build a "time machine".... that's what this game is all about for me.


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## RaisedByWolves (Jan 17, 2021)

Damn, thats pretty!


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## Piomarine (Aug 23, 2021)

Ok so it’s been months since I’ve even logged on here but I wanted to give some updates. Work on the Lark ground to a screeching halt back in February when we found out that we are expecting baby number 2! The motor’s priority fell even further in March when we found that baby number 3 was also hiding in there with number 2!!!!! 3 weeks after we found out about the twins I officially enlisted in the Texas Army National Guard after 10 years of civilian life post Marine Corps. Worked all summer to help bolster the savings for the babies arrival and then school started up again (I’m a high school teacher). We finally closed on our house and now own the house we’ve been living in for the last 2 years. We are now officially on baby watch! The boys should be here within the next 6-8 weeks at most. 

All of that to say life has had other plans for me and the Lark had to shift to the bottom of the priorities list. I have still kept it lubricated and give it a spin from time to time, but the new parts budget had to be reallocated elsewhere! I wish I had more motor related news to share but I don’t and such is life sometimes!

P.S.: We are both excited and terrified about the arrival of the twins…seriously!!!


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## Weldorthemagnificent (Aug 23, 2021)

Congrats and that motor has waited a long time, a little longer won't hurt

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## Shaugh (Aug 24, 2021)

Congrats ! Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans....


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