# 1958 Johnson RDS-20 35hp rebuild



## Shaugh

This is the motor off my latest project. Totally locked up and neglected for years.




I got it freed up and even have a good spark restored. Compression was 110 and 100.. Carb is in the process of revival, but the lower unit is a mess. I got it pulled off and this dropped out.. complete with a petrified mouse:




The housings for the lower unit appear to have been frozen... welded and scabbed with JB Weld over and over.

This is my biggest problem:



Does anyone think this is fixable ? Or should I just go for a replacement ? These things are not as easy to find as I was hoping. There is a new housing on Marineengine.com:
https://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=OMC0382918
It's not exactly correct for that year but is supposed to fit.

I'll update my progress here. Anyone have one of these laying around ? I need several trim pieces as well.


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## Johnny

Shaugh - Pappy and I both have a RDS-20.
his is up and running (go figure) and mine turned out to be a salt water motor
and needs a LOT of love before I can trust it.

I saw an RDS-20 lower unit on ebay the other day - might be worth investigating for a spare.
I bought a L/U a few months ago for $75 with free shipping..... total unit with drive shaft and shift rod.

*on the Antique Outboard website, https://www.aomci.org, parts pop up in the Free Classifieds section occasionally*
I think you can also post the items that you need. (be sure to follow the posting rules or you will not be heard).
this member has around 30-40 OMC lower units for sale, all hp sizes. Jim McGehee, Montrose Iowa. ph 319-463-7403 email [email protected]


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## Shaugh

Hey Johnny, that's great news... I'm probably going to need the "dream team" to get this thing going again. It was in total rigor mortis for a decade or more. It took me days of work just to free up the gear shift...

My next problem is a wiring harness that is like extra crispy bacon coming from the side plug. One of the "systems" on this motor that I'm unfamiliar with is the vacuum cut out switch. I understand why it's there... I'm sure a lawyer had a lot to do with it... but it appears to be a mid lake problem just waiting for a chance to occur. I haven't seen it on any motor of this vintage till now.. didn't those motors have exactly the same risk factors ? Would you consider disabling it ? It would painlessly remove about 6 feet of crispy bacon and appears to me to be some really bad engineering with those little mercury switches tacked to the throttle.

From what I've read, the best way to stop a runaway motor is to simply throw the choke.... Do I need it ?


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## Johnny

Legally - I am not qualified to give any kind of advice when it comes to motors !!! LOL
that is why Pappy was put on this earth - to help those that can not help themselves.

he can tell you how to build a new harness for next to nothing compared to a repop @ $275.00.

for me, I am going to drill out the exterior plug and place new wires through it and throw
a black fiberglass loom over it and it will look original. some fool has had this plug for sale on ebay
for over a year at $88.00 plus $8 shipping.


I think I have 3 or 4 of them if you need one. I am always on the hunt for RDS-20 stuff such as cowl
trim and cheap parts . . . if you see something for the RDS-20 for cheap, get it. they don't make them anymore.


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## Shaugh

That's the bacon... I had not thought about drilling out the plug... I may get to that, but my wires seem to be ok for about 2" coming out... I think I'll try butt splicing from there first...

My shroud is in great shape... all the emblems and chrome are in top notch condition. The only part I'm missing is that center chrome piece that says "Electric Starting" ... I don't suppose you've got an extra on that :wink: ?

The other parts cost gone wild is these little plastic trim locks that hold the emblems on... $2-$3 each !.... and you need about 20... 

https://www.crowleymarine.com/parts/33293.cfm?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2qaF867_1AIVThuBCh35NQ3hEAYYASABEgKj8fD_BwE

Any DIY ideas ?


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## Johnny

check with Home Depot, Lowe's or Ace Hardware for the little
plastic emblem clips . . . I saw some the other day that will probably work.
they are cream colored nylon. or back to the internet.
https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Autobody_Clips_And_Fasteners_s/151.htm



the stainless "Electric Starting" emblem I have needs some serious metalsmithing
before it is usable (been trying to find a better one also).
option B would be to find a piece of thin stainless at the junkyard and cut it to fit.
it will look just as snazzy as the original.


those silver wings along the sides are actually stainless steel and will buff up nicely. (or so I was told).

as for the toasted plug, it was designed to be a quick disconnect for removing the motor.
now tell me - how often do you remove a 35hp motor ???
my idea is to have a 10 gang terminal block mounted to the powerhead with quick disconnect clips.
two minutes with a screwdriver and the motor is ready to carry over to your other boat.



the cowl gasket is also available (I will have to look it up if you need one).



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## Shaugh

Those look good.. I had not found any with that small a shaft size... that's more like the right price. I know those chrome trim pieces are like gold... very hard to find because they were made with such soft metal... Those side wings will almost bend over from gravity if you hold one end.... On every motor I've seen they are always rippled and gouged... Not some of OMC's better engineering... Good idea on the wiring.. I'm hoping to avoid having to figure out what each one of those wires does.... but I probably won't be that lucky... I hate wiring...

You might like where this motor is going.... I know you're a Crestliner fan...

I'm taking over a project from a guy that did some work on it and lost interest... A 58 Voyager 15.... will have mahogany floors and seats... Some day...


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## Johnny

WOW and Holy Mackeral !!
that is almost the same furniture theme I am going with now.
I am using Florida Cypress throughout with bench seats.

that bow handle is like gold too !!! on RetroCrestliner, a few of us need the bow handle
but there are none to be found - and nobody wants to loan one out to make copies.
soooooooo I put on my Craftsman's hat and carved one out of wood and sent it to
the foundry - I got the prototype back a few weeks ago and just last night finished the
final buffing to go to "Show and Tell" at the Crestliner forum.
*From This*


*To This*





I also made a "flange" for the vintage nav light from some 1/4" aluminum plate.
it also will have the groove down the middle to sit flush over the deck lid seam.





this is what it looks like if you mount anything to the deck lid without the groove.


you could also use the same wood as your interior to make a base for your light.




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## Shaugh

WOW... that handle is quite a piece of work... very nice... I guess I will have to check in on that forum more... now that I'm a Crestliner guy... 8) ..

I do need the cowl gasket.. please let me know.

I would have loaned you my handle... it's gonna be a while before I need it... I understand the wind wings are also hard to get... I haven't even looked at my nav light yet... It will be a fun project.... It's parked in the backyard... way too punishing hot and rainy outside right now... better to work on motors in the AC garage... Messed around with these a little:




I can see I'm gonna have to figure out how to beat you to EBAY every day... :twisted:


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## Johnny

the original cowl gaskets are available from a company in Canada.
you need to either call them on the phone or send an email
to arrange payment. https://www.nymarine.ca





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## Shaugh

If you're missing some of the other trim items, check this out... and look below it... I believe these are the right parts.. mislabeled as Javelin parts.. ?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-1958-JOHNSON-JAVELIN-305628-STARBOARD-SHROUD-APPLIQUE-CHROME-TRIM/272681532688?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D41375%26meid%3Dda4d7ab341e44066abbc267409420b40%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D282488620994

If you feel like traveling this one looks damn good.... and it comes with a nice batch of firewood...

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ram/boa/6182249635.html

all kidding aside that would be a steal if you could get there... You could sell the boat for $1000 and get the motor for free.. And have $200 left over for gas and beer.... I almost talked myself into it...


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## Shaugh

I guess I've decided to go ahead and get this housing :
https://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=OMC0382918

New and fresh seems like a good idea... the only thing stopping me is these instructions:

https://www.marineengine.com/parts/technical_information/OMC_Gear_Case_Water_Tube.pdf

Where they talk about installing a Water tube and plugging holes:



My original is below.. with no holes... Can somebody explain the difference ? I need to buy this tube and fittings too ?


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## Shaugh

Hey Johnny,
I found this trim on Ebay... seems to work well although it's a little deeper:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/120-Car-Auto-Rubber-Seal-Strip-Window-Door-Edge-Protect-Molding-Trim-U-Shape/282250851074?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Exciting day today... got her running again for the first time. I found a lower unit that was near perfect from a 59 Evinrude. It's one of the best parts of this hobby when you hear that old, dead motor come back to life... Purrs like a kitten and pees like a racehorse again. These larger big twins are such a pleasure to work on...loads of room under the hood... Another life saved with Marvel Mystery Oil....

Now it's on to paint and detailing...


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## Shaugh

Finished the shroud today. I'm pretty happy with the results although that missing trim really needles me now... desperate plea to anybody who might come across one... The middle front plate that says "Electric Starting"...


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## Johnny

wow - as usual - *VERY IMPRESSIVE !!!*
if you can find a piece of stainless, you can cut it to fit
the space you need and buff it up all nice and shiny
nobody will ever notice the "Electric Starting" engraving is missing.
I may go that route if I can not get the dings out mine.



I had to forego the aluminum plate under the bow light as I just could not
get it to fit right . . . so I made a cypress wood block for it to sit on and it
looks much better. it will match the seats when it is all said and done.




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## Shaugh

the wood base wil be a perfect touch for that boat. I love that cypress transom you did... can't wait to see the rest... makes me want to junk that mahogany for mine..... a lighter shade of wood looks best on a Crestliner...

I'm considering making my own plate.. funny thing is I think the motor looks better without it....They really overdid it with chrome bling on that shroud imo.... I might just fill the holes and call it a day...


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## Shaugh

I followed your lead and polished up a plate... I didn't want it sticking over the edges like the other plates.. ( which is why they are all in such bad shape).... 

But I think I might have undershot it a bit... too small ?







coming together bit by bit... should get it all finished by tomorrow..


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## nccatfisher

If that plate bothers you that bad you could make it out of aluminum. You could still polish it almost to the sheen of stainless and take it to a trophy shop and they should be able to handle that engraving for you. And put the "Electric Start" on it if you took a pic with the type of lettering and spacing you wanted.

Personally what you have looks awfully good.


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## Shaugh

Good idea about the engraving... gonna look into that...preliminary assembly.. looking pretty good. A few more details and I can take it out for the first run in a couple decades..


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## Bart

I have a similar motor. It is a 1959 Evinrude 35 Lark. Mine has a tiller handle with a pushbutton start and kill button on the motor. It is on a 16 foot aluminum Starcraft and pushes it along very well.


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## Johnny

Hello Bart, and Welcome to TinBoats !!
we like to see photos of the vintage outfits.


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## Johnny

great job on the repaint, Shaugh !!
did you go with the gloss white or a toned down color?
I will be using the tan tinted white - sort of like the biscuit color.


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## Shaugh

Johnny,
I decided to try this motor on a budget. Instead of mixing up expensive 2 part urethane for the base coats I used spray can Rustoleum enamels... Canvas white which is very cream colored and burnished brass metallic.

Sprayed those on and let them dry for several days till I was sure they were fully cured, steel wooled, then when back and clear coated with a 2 part urethane clear... it seems to have worked very well. Finish is diamond hard now and seems very durable.

I wanted to keep the controls matched to the motor .... the controls I got were a mess with several coats of sky blue and black paint over it. Got it stripped down and painted.... Not sure I'm happy with it... might get rid of the gold and just stay all canvas white ?


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## nccatfisher

Shaugh said:


> Johnny,
> I decided to try this motor on a budget. Instead of mixing up expensive 2 part urethane for the base coats I used spray can Rustoleum enamels... Canvas white which is very cream colored and burnished brass metallic.
> 
> Sprayed those on and let them dry for several days till I was sure they were fully cured, steel wooled, then when back and clear coated with a 2 part urethane clear... it seems to have worked very well. Finish is diamond hard now and seems very durable.
> 
> I wanted to keep the controls matched to the motor .... the controls I got were a mess with several coats of sky blue and black paint over it. Got it stripped down and painted.... Not sure I'm happy with it... might get rid of the gold and just stay all canvas white ?


I think they look great.


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## Pappy

Amazing job so far!! 
These are great looking vintage engines in my opinion. I just worked on one the other day about a thousand miles from here (not kidding). The guy loved the engine and doesn't even have a boat for it!


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## satx78247

Shaugh,

PURTY Big Twin!!!

IF it had been my 35 Johnny, I'd have stripped it for every possible reusable part & scrapped the rest.
(I must have bought at least a dozen of these Big Twins over the last 3-4 years & never paid more than 50.oo for any of them. = My TREASURE is a 1957 Johnson 18HP with factory electric starting (and with less than 50 hours), including all the controls for 40.oo from a Southside garage sale.)

TRUTH is that the 35-40HP Johnnyrudes just are NOT at all rare (in repairable condition) & there are LOTS of them around.
(I've been known to buy & strip 3 "junk" Big Twins to get enough parts for ONE really good motor. = About 18 months ago, I bought FOUR Johnny 35 OBs from a scrap metal yard for 20.oo & made 2 good motors from them & sold what was left of the 3rd on craigslist for about 25.00. - The ONLY part of the 4th OB that was worth saving was the cowl.)

All of my "garage-sale Johnnies" get a carb kit, new coils, points, plugs, condensers & water pump impeller, from the local NAPA auto parts store. - After doing that, if they weren't STUCK, most will fire right up with fresh fuel/a hot battery & run fine for decades. = It is my contention that the Big Twins are the most over-engineered OBs ever.
(Incidentally, if I can successfully "cobble-together" a GREAT-running Big Twin, using a copy of CHEAP OUTBOARDS: The Beginner's Guide to making an Old Motor Run Forever, anyone can as I'm NO mechanic.)

just my OPINION, satx


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## Shaugh

Wow satx78247, that's an impressive resume... I'd love to see some photos of your collection ?


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## satx78247

Shaugh,

I don't own a camera nor do I know how to use one competently but I'll see if I can get my adult daughter to make/post photos of my BT collection, the next time that she comes to visit from Austin.

Btw, "my pride & joy" is my one-owner/seldom used 1957 Eighteen HP Johnson, with factory electric start, which is NOT restored. = All that I did to it is thoroughly clean/polish it, as it was always stored inside the PO's garage, until his untimely passing.
(So far I haven't mounted it on a boat, as I'm looking for a 1957 YELLOW JACKET runabout/Dal-Tex trailer to display it for shows.)

yours, satx


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## Bart

Johnny said:


> Hello Bart, and Welcome to TinBoats !!
> we like to see photos of the vintage outfits.



Here is a pic of the Evinrude Lark 35. It is a tiller with push button start and kill switches. It pushes the 16 ft Starcraft along really well. I bought the boat motor and trailer on an auction this spring for $175.00. It hadn't been used in about 10 years. It started right up even with the old gas in the tank. I put new points, water pump, lower unit seals, and fresh gas and lower unit lube and it runs great. I will get some pictures of the boat when I get a chance. It was dark when I took this.


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## satx78247

Bart,

You really also should change out both coils & the 2 condensers. = The old Big Twins have a couple of weaknesses & the COILS are the MAIN one.

Otherwise, they are "nearly bullet-proof" & last for decades, with even minimal care.
(My loony cousin borrowed my "using tinny" some years ago, after I told him that it needed to be refilled on 2-CYCLE fuel. - When he brought it home that night, he said, "You need to do something about the motor, as it gets 'hotter than H' after it's been run a few miles". = You guessed: He added NO oil added to the gas, when he filled it up. -----> Fyi, after the tank was PROPERLY refilled on oil/gas mixture the next day, it started right back up & has run well for another few years. - I don't know any other OB that would take that horrible abuse!!!)

yours, satx


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## Johnny

also - I believe these '57, '58 and '59 Big Twins take *24:1 gas/oil mix* - not 50:1


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## Bart

I have been running 24:1 Pennzoil Watercraft. I did replace the condensers along with the points. The coils look like they have been updated in the past.


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## Pappy

Here is a video of an RDS-20 in action. Hope you like it. If you want to just see the one engine then look at the beginning then look around the 14 minute mark. If you want to see more of the incredible Suwanee river then check out the video I did around Sept. '16 I think. 
We do at least one 100 mile cruise with the vintage and antique engines up there per year. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=42AXu-ruk4w


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## Shaugh

Great movies Pappy.. Super Quiet it is.... That K boat with a 35 must be a swift runner .. you're making me want a tiller handle to try it on mine... I thought about doing it but it just seemed like too much motor for that boat .... I'm feeling much braver after watching you...


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## Pappy

The model K is a perfect boat for a 35. That boat has had a 60 cu. in. 50hp 4 cyl. opposed engine in it as well and handles it nicely as long as there is weight onboard besides myself. 
Have even run a 57 Johnson 35 on my model R 12'. Also runs well. Runs a bit better with a 1954 25hp on it though as the engine is a bit lighter.


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## Shaugh

I might get there some day... will need to find a tiller handle or rig something up.... 

One other part I'm in need of is the center emblem for this switch plate:








My dashboard is already drilled for it so I need to use the one I have from another boat.. unfortunately that one has an evinrude center emblem. I understand I could also put small ammeter in there too ?... any help or links appreciated.


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## Shaugh

Weather is turning nice... started making progress on the boat. Got the trailer cleaned up and the boat stripped and reassembled... put in 230 pop rivets by hand this weekend.... my hands hurt...
















Test fitting before finishing is half the fun...


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## Pappy

Very nice!!


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## Shaugh

Thanks Pappy. It's thankless work to get to this point.... but now the fun really starts...


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## Pappy

Trust me....I know what you went through to get to that point. Have done two so far.


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## SeaFaring

Wow! That’s pretty- I can’t wait to see it finished. 


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## Shaugh

Thanks.. I've been hacking away at the details.... got the dashboard set up and all my wood parts finished.... It's such a pleasure to work with the good stuff for a change....It's impossible to make mahogany look bad...


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## timsmcm

Can you tell me what model boat that is? I would love to try and find one.


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## Shaugh

That's a 1958 Crestliner Voyager 15 with the split splash rail... haven't figured out why some of them had it and some didn't..


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## SeaFaring

That’s going to be fantastic! Please tell me you are doing a tartan soft top with matching swim trunks. 

Your motor looks better than the one in the marketing materials. 


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## Shaugh

I'm a little bit off of museum quality already with the mahogany and the all metal look.... don't really like red boats.... the tartan would be hard to live with I think... I do bring a jaunty captains hat and a shopworn, Marilyn Monroe inflatable with me though...


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## Pappy

Marilyn was more of an Evinrude gal though since she sported her own set of "Big Twins". :roll:


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## Shaugh

Furniture installed... on to controls and wiring...


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## Pappy

'Scuse the drool.........


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## stinkfoot

Boo hiss for the no tartan! There are some that aren't so bright you know! I second the matching trunks..... Looking very nice, Shaugh.


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## timsmcm

B e a utiful.


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## Shaugh

Windshield, steering and misc details this weekend....


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## SeaFaring

You need to get yourself a bunch of vintage water skis to go with this beauty. 


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## Shaugh

Got the electronics and controls installed. A little fine tuning and she's ready for a shakedown cruise...


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## Pappy

Gorgeous! Where are you located by the way?


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## Shaugh

Thanks Pappy. There's no substitute for good raw materials. That mahogany is fun to work with. I'm in middle TN.


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## Drock

What a cruise, she's a beauty congratulations.


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## Fire1386

Beautiful restoration, well done =D>


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## Pappy

Shaugh - I have a very close friend somewhat near you that you would love to meet. He lives in Smyrna, Tn. He has an aluminum boat that is just being finished up that you would love to see....trust me. Also extremely knowledgeable on Antique/Vintage and present day engines. He has been with me on the Suwanee a couple times and is in at least one of the videos. If you would like I can set it up. Let me know. You won't regret it!


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## Pappy

Check your PM...it is set up.


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## Shaugh

Will do, thanks.


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## Shaugh

I'm still fiddling away on this thing... lots of little projects to do before I can take it out... And some fun stuff....

This is what happens when you hand a perfectly good boat to a "fisherman"... The kicker bracket was part of the original boat... cleaned it up and It works pretty good...







The good news is I didn't make any new holes...


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## SeaFaring

That’s pretty sweet! The kicker bracket is a trip. 


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## Shaugh

Maiden voyage yesterday... unfortunately the drain plug leaked.... Had to come in quicker than I wanted. Looking at the engine when I was trying to adjust the carb it seemed to be bouncing around too much.... but I did make a short video:

https://youtu.be/xDj6ywV5Tug

Closer inspection revealed a broken front motor mount.




I've never done this before. Anyone have a "quick" way to do it ? On first look I have to tear it down to the giblets in order to get it out ?


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## Pappy

Pull your rear exhaust cover as well and inspect all mounts. 
As far as adjustments go. If you bought an OEM carb kit to do your carb it would have come with new packing washers for your adjustment needles. 
Not uncommon for those to need to be re-tightened once or twice to retain good tension on the adjustment needles. 
Packings should be adjusted on the tighter rather than looser side to retain your initial and final adjustments. 
I run mine on the lean side at idle once warmed. This requires that I richen a 1/4 turn for good cold starts. By doing this the engine smoothes out noticeably once I return to the leaner idle mixture setting....just a thought. 
BTW - I talked to the fellow I tried to put you in contact with and he said he hasn't heard from you yet?


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## Shaugh

I figured I'd wait till I had a reasonably functional boat, and then maybe we could meet up somewhere ? So to replace that front mount should my general plan of attack be to detach and inspect all the mounts ? Will that get me enough room to squeeze a new one on the front ?


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## Pappy

Not sure. Statement was made so that you would inspect all mounts. Once you find one mount broken it is a good idea. From the photo it looks like the nut is missing. Is the mount broken as well? 
I may be able to get by the warehouse and take a look at mine and see if I can help in the procedure. 
No sense in waiting until you have a perfect running boat to meet the guy. In our previous lives we never met anyone with perfect running boats anyway! We always entered at a time where an authorized dealer had run out of options, ability and talent and the end result was a PO'd customer. That's when we usually met folks!


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## Shaugh

Yes I took the nut off, it's definitely cracked. Any procedural advice would be much appreciated. It looks like it's possible to detach all the mounts... but I can't get my head around what might happen then .... will I be able to raise the motor within the housing and swap that front mount....?


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## Pappy

Two ways. You can put a flywheel puller with an eyebolt on the flywheel and hold the engine or use the lift eye if there is one...am thinking there is. 
Better check parts availability as well. After this long it will be a miracle. I did get a front lower mount directly through parts before I got mine on the water.


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## Pappy

I did a bit of looking around.
The upper mount is still available and not outrageous in price. 
Would start by removing the lower outer exhaust housing and then start disconnecting other mounts until you have the area needed to change it. Simplistic approach I know but that is how I would approach it. You can always contact the fellow I asked you to .....


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## Shaugh

Yes I have one on the way from Ebay.. about 10 bucks. I agree, that seems to be the right plan. I'm going to try to leave just the low front mount attached. That should give me enough arc to be able to pull the motor back and slip the new one in.... thanks.


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## Shaugh

Got this done over the weekend. It actually did require tearing the motor in half... but it was all pretty simple. I just unbolted all the mounts, disconnected the throttle arm and the gearshift, fuel line and wiring...and lifted it right out.. it's pretty light when it's only half a motor.

OMC wisely designed the front mount to be a hook that allows you to set the motor back in the cradle and have it be securely hooked over the front mount to take all the weight. Connecting it all back up was a breeze.



New mount attached:



One thing I noticed on the water was quite a bit of smoke in the housing.. I knew this exhaust seal donut was shot, but they're $90 on EBAY !..




No way that's in the budget.... I decided to try some high temperature silicone hose.... It took some crafting to get it right, but it seems to work great... and cost about 7 bucks..


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## timsmcm

Shaugh said:


> Got this done over the weekend. It actually did require tearing the motor in half... but it was all pretty simple. I just unbolted all the mounts, disconnected the throttle arm and the gearshift, fuel line and wiring...and lifted it right out.. it's pretty light when it's only half a motor.
> 
> OMC wisely designed the front mount to be a hook that allows you to set the motor back in the cradle and have it be securely hooked over the front mount to take all the weight. Connecting it all back up was a breeze.
> 
> View attachment 3
> 
> New mount attached:
> View attachment 2
> 
> 
> One thing I noticed on the water was quite a bit of smoke in the housing.. I knew this exhaust seal donut was shot, but they're $90 on EBAY !..
> 
> View attachment 1
> 
> 
> No way that's in the budget.... I decided to try some high temperature silicone hose.... It took some crafting to get it right, but it seems to work great... and cost about 7 bucks..


Now that's using your noggin.


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## Pappy

If you watch Ebay you can nab them at a good price occasionally. Interesting fix though with the silicon hose. What are the details on the hose?


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## Shaugh

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-ID-x-3-4-OD-Thick-Wall-Silicone-Flexible-Tubing-High-Temp-Hose-500F/272342493054?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

I think if I was going to do it again I'd try going up to 1" diameter.. there's plenty of room for a little larger... the groove in the motor casting is exactly made to hold something round.. I just spliced it together by slitting a piece and stuffing it into both ends.


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## Shaugh

It's been too cold to think about doing much on the Crestliner. We found a decent 1958 7.5 horse on craigslist a while back that was just waiting for someone to care....




A lot of battle scars but still in remarkable shape for 60 years old..

I got it pretty well freshened up and running great:







But the problem is It's missing the gold seahorse emblem.




Does anyone have a reliable way to find one of these ? ( and not pay $100 for it ?)

I've restored chipped and cracked ones before... but it seems these are completely gone from the world...
https://vintage-boat-parts.net/johnson_outboard_golden_sea_horse_medallion_emblem_1957_1958_vintage_nos_5.php

Any ideas appreciated... It appears this was quite a mistake for the usually infallible OMC engineers... a brittle piece of plastic right where the pull cord handle will bang if you let it go.... I guess it was probably a very profitable part to sell for many years...


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## Pappy

There are decent replacements but not the same as the OEM part. Most are placing a decal replacement there. Some have a raised decal replacement.
Most are crazed by being out in the sun and or embrittlement from being 55-60 years old. I think the material used was about as good as it could be expected to be back in that era.


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## Shaugh

Well the decision has been made. I was hoping this boat would be my ultimate ride off into the sunset... But it didn't do it.... I'm pretty sure I want something a little more fishing oriented... So I've decided to sell it.

Can anyone give me an estimate on what I should ask for it ? I'm sure I could sell it easily on craigslist, but if anyone here wants to make an offer just PM me. I'd rather see it go to somebody that appreciates it.


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## Pappy

Take it to one of the antique outboard meets. You will have a much better chance of selling it there....to someone who will actually take care of it and not hack it up. Dan Anderson may be interested in the engine should you decide to split up the package. He is working on another boat that would be able to use it.


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## FishnFiddle

I just signed up the to this site and hoping for some assistance.

I'm restoring my Dad's 1958 birch plywood hull runabout. I have his original 1958 35 HP RDS-20 which hasn't run in several years. One of the pistons has seized but I can't get it to break loose. I've tried different techniques even soaking the block in diesel fuel for a couple of weeks. I'm planning to do a complete restore on the motor but really need to get by this issue first.


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## Pappy

Do yourself a favor.....actually two.
Start your own thread. Easier to keep track of the comments and a better reference for you.
Put your location in your signature. Lots of us know folks around the country that can help if not too far away. 
Let's start there before we hi-jack this thread. 
Gorgeous boat by the way.....am glad Lesa hasn't seen it. Yet....


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## Shaugh

Fishnfiddle,
Nice boat and motor. Getting them seaworthy is not a difficult task when you have a resource like this forum. Lots of people here that will help you every step of the way. Make your own thread and send more photos... we like photos...


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## RaisedByWolves

Shaugh said:


> Maiden voyage yesterday... unfortunately the drain plug leaked.... Had to come in quicker than I wanted. Looking at the engine when I was trying to adjust the carb it seemed to be bouncing around too much.... but I did make a short video:
> 
> https://youtu.be/xDj6ywV5Tug
> 
> Closer inspection revealed a broken front motor mount.
> 
> Image.jpg
> 
> I've never done this before. Anyone have a "quick" way to do it ? On first look I have to tear it down to the giblets in order to get it out ?



Your video is marked private.


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## Pensapilot

Im late to this discussion but just lost my rds20 superseahorse hood into the lake….hit a submerged object at a relatively low speed and it jarred it loose. Before could get turned around to retrieve it ….it sank.….it had all the chrome parts including the electric starting piece on the front…totally heartbreaking…
Im here after performing an internet search for RDS 20..i found a hood on ebay but haven’t received it yet…of course im starting from scratch again and hoping to find the ever elusive electric starting piece…

Anyone reading this have any leads? Shot in the dark i know..

Thanks,

Tom


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## Pensapilot

Trying to figure out how to post pictures..the icons above don’t seem to work


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## Shaugh

How deep did it sink ? I bet you could find somebody with dive gear to find it for you ? Probably for a lot less money than trying to buy one.... a couple hundred bucks would be getting off cheap....


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## Pappy

Agree with Shaugh. Hire a diver. Talk to anyone who fills scuba tanks and they should be able to refer you to someone who can help. Would hate to lose a classic engine like this when it can certainly be found.


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## Shaugh

In case you can't remember where you dropped it.... St. Marks ?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/374069361472?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D38e379462a5d47f49a45aa6374706c63%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D185440125430%26itm%3D374069361472%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A65f36776-e397-11ec-b3de-cec3795b0f06%7Cparentrq%3A2bf6a4191810aa7214555550ffffda38%7Ciid%3A14


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