# Boat missing "edge trim"



## cavmedic (Jun 27, 2017)

Good evening. My neighbor gave me a 14 ft that I plan on cleaning up and doing some fishing out of. 

Someone at some point either replaced the edge trim ( for a lack of the proper term) and replaced it with some wood. Is there an aftermarket solution to replace this? 

I just picked the trailer up from Craig's list and I know I have to make some adjustments , remove some rollers , move the winch front and add longer bunks , but that's low on the list right now as I want to get the boat its self done first.


I know it's full of water, I'm leak checking


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## DaleH (Jun 28, 2017)

We'll, that is the top gunnel and more than just simply 'trim', that is a highly important STRUCTURAL piece of the hull. Look at other tin boats and you wil typically see a round, oval, square or rectangular extrusion. 

This top gunnel piece ties the top sides together and helps keep the V-shape when the bow hits the seas. Tin boats are designed to spread the stress throughout the entire hull and (to a point) flex to absorb the stress and shock.

I would clean it up and paint it or replace with an extrusion bolted in place.


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## ericman (Jun 28, 2017)

That's actually the way some of them were manufactured. Early Larson and Crestliner in particular.


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## Stumpalump (Jun 28, 2017)

That's a cool boat and will look and work great with the right wood on it. Consider yourself lucky and dig into what wood you need to use to make it right. Yours looks like pressure treated lumber was used by mistake.


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## Shaugh (Jun 28, 2017)

a wood gunnel was pretty typical in the early 50's. That one looks like it was replaced at some point and it might even be treated lumber ?.. which will rot the aluminum in contact with it. by the way the strap is bowing it in I'd guess that it's very soft and needs to be replaced. 

Nothing wrong with making it out of wood, and wood will cost a lot less than trying to buy something aluminum. Once you get it replaced you can add a rounded cap to the top. A nice woodworking project that could look really nice with new seats and a coat of paint..







Here's an example :
https://www.timelessboatworks.com/content/boats/larson-crestliner-14-commodore/woodwork


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Jun 28, 2017)

Old Starcraft boats used the corner brackets with the built in handle.
You can use White oak to make the new gunnels.


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## Johnny (Jun 28, 2017)

one of the least favorable options would be to use the white PVC board
or the brown HDPE plastic structural decking lumber.
a piece of 1x2" on each side and a 1x2" top cap rounded over with a router.
all fastened with stainless countersunk screws.

the PVC and HDPE material is very easy to bend into shape and will last longer than the boat.
but, if you want the varnished wood look, you will have to find what is available
in your neck of the woods to make it happen....... just don't use pressure treated
wood on anything that will come into prolonged contact with aluminum.




.


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## cavmedic (Jun 29, 2017)

Thanks for the replies, I now have something to dig into research wise. Sorry I did not get back sooner, I thought I hit the subscribe button but apparently I never got notifications of the replies......


Being there was no HIN, plates, marking , I was not sure, but now I can research older Starcraft and get some ideas on which way to go...


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## DaleH (Jun 30, 2017)

Be aware if you do use one of the newer vinyl or plastics for trim, to drill the through holes well oversize. These plastics have a large coefficient of expansion. I'd drill each 1/16" oversize.


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## cavmedic (Jun 30, 2017)

DaleH said:


> Be aware if you do use one of the newer vinyl or plastics for trim, to drill the through holes well oversize. These plastics have a large coefficient of expansion. I'd drill each 1/16" oversize.



Thanks for the heads up. I'm going to relocate the boat to my parents place next week , where I'll have more room, tools to brain storm with my dad. 


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## cavmedic (Jul 26, 2017)

I wound up grabbing a piece of trex style board. I was able to grab an old mismatch with a few scratched pretty cheap. 

We ripped it, then made a cut on the bottom. 

It's not finished , but ran out of daylight last night. 

I have to pick up some stainless hardware yet and some stair tread to redo the benches as well. 
















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## Lost Pole (Jul 26, 2017)

That looks really nice!


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## cavmedic (Jul 26, 2017)

Lost Pole said:


> That looks really nice!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Thanks. Once the benches, transom and other misc items are replaced, I will paint. I'm thinking an OD green with some black tiger striping. 


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## LDUBS (Jul 26, 2017)

That is a very clean look for your new gunnel. I want to make sure I appreciate what you did. If I understand, after ripping the composite stuff to width, you cut a saw kerf along the bottom side. Looks like you went about half way. Then the hull slides into this kerf. Judging from the rubber mallet I see in one of the photos, I would say you had a pretty tight fit. Is that about right? Did you use any kind of caulk -- just curious. 

Thanks for sharing.


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## cavmedic (Jul 27, 2017)

LDUBS said:


> That is a very clean look for your new gunnel. I want to make sure I appreciate what you did. If I understand, after ripping the composite stuff to width, you cut a saw kerf along the bottom side. Looks like you went about half way. Then the hull slides into this kerf. Judging from the rubber mallet I see in one of the photos, I would say you had a pretty tight fit. Is that about right? Did you use any kind of caulk -- just curious.
> 
> Thanks for sharing.



We went a little less than half way, just to make sure the composite didn't crack. 

We did not use any calk or other adhesive. I ordered some stainless stainless screws in 3/4" to be able to fasten. 3/4" is long enough to go through one side of the trex, the aluminum and bite some trex on the outer side and not go completely through. I plan to stager one screw outside, one inside. Where the bench brackets are, I will be using a bolt straight through. 

It was a tight fit, especially where the aluminum was deformed from then previous screws. If we need to, we can cut the opposite way and make the saw cut a bit wider, but I don't think that will be a problem. 

When all my stainless hardware arrives next week sometime , then it's time to grind off all the bench hardware and add the diamond plate patch to the outside of the transom for some added reinforcement in the event I eventually go with gas powered motor. 


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## cavmedic (Sep 13, 2017)

It's been a while since I've had time to work on the boat. 

I've gotten the new transom wood and plates on, new benches measured and drilled. Once the additional coats of sealer are done with the benches ( pine stair tread from Home Depot) , I plan on stripping the paint on the interior and rolling on some bed liner for traction. 



























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## cavmedic (Sep 13, 2017)

I was also awaiting the Fish and Boat commission to assign a Hull ID number before I spent any time and money. That has also come in, I just need to get some plates made as well. 


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## lkjhG1948TB (May 12, 2019)

Gunwale rebuild: What water-depth can I safely place in a tin boat, with damaged gunwales, to check for leaks?


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## DaleH (May 12, 2019)

lkjhG1948TB said:


> Gunwale rebuild: What water-depth can I safely place in a tin boat, with damaged gunwales, to check for leaks?


Moot point, as water pressure is greater from the outside of the hull when the hull is placed in water -theory of ‘displacement’ - vs the little water pressure generated from water put into the hull. Meaning, you could still find leaks even after filling the boat.

If supported well, I’d likely leave it out on the grass, not on a trailer, and you could probably put 6” or more into the stern ...

Many times you can re-buck suspect looking rivets, before even before checking for potential leaks.


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## lkjhG1948TB (May 13, 2019)

DaleH said:


> lkjhG1948TB said:
> 
> 
> > Gunwale rebuild: What water-depth can I safely place in a tin boat, with damaged gunwales, to check for leaks?
> ...


OK. I'll put boat in the lake and load with sand bags to make her ride low in the water. Thanks. I do not know much about boats so learning about 'moot points ' is helpful!


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