# 14' Shallow V - New (to me) Boat



## ober51 (Apr 12, 2009)

Hey Guys,

I am relatively new to the site and have decided to take the plunge with a tin boat. I bought the trailer last year and the boat this year. Got a decent deal for this area (NNJ), boat, 4 leather seats, anchor and cover for $300. I don't know the maker of the boat or the year - as I can't find any info on the transom. So any help is appreciated! Maybe I will find some information once I scrape off some of the paint and that flaky yellow. Also, I haven't yet decided what I want to do to the boat - money, time, fishing season approaching all playing a part- at this point. I have, however, decided to make some cosmetic changes. I am going to Steel Flex the bottom, paint the remaining hull with Brightside, and repaint the inside (I think) depending on what I will do with the modification. I want to make it at least nice looking in the interim - though I have a sneaking suspicion I will be doing it all this month, lol. 

I have a few pictures early in the process, as I only started scraping for like an hour before this pics were taken. I thought it was going to be a bit easier, I couldn't have been more wrong. The previous owner applied either Herculiner or Rhinoliner over blue paint, which was over greeen paint. The owner must have let some ice form, because when I bought the boat it was peeling badly. That part was easy, but the remaining roll-on liner is awful. Won't come off with paint remover/stripper, rather only through scraping for hours. I am sure some of you can relate. I have been at this for probably 10+ hours. Stinks, but it's coming along. 

The black is what I need to get off. Like I mentioned before, this ws earlier in the process, so when I take some pictures tomorrow you'll see the difference (at least I hope). I plan on taking it as far down to the metal as I can to redo the paint. I will at least be doing the upper portions, as I am thinking of adding a low deck to the boat. I don't like to take chances, and will only add a front deck for some storage and likely not even place a chair, we'll see. 

There really only seems to be one thing wrong thus far, thought I'm sure that will change! There is a piece that is a bit loose on the back bottom right of the boat. It's like a long support or something. No hole, just detached, and I want to reattach that. What is the best way? Can I use JB Weld? I would rather not get it welded or have to ask someone else to rivet it (though that is a possibility). It looks a bit distorted and I will have to bend it back to reshape it, as well. 

Anyway, I look forward to some comments and what not, especially as I add more pictures. Suggestions and critiques are welcome. I would like to avoid mistakes and receive tips that cut down on time - as this scraping bit is not my cup of tea, lol. But I am pumped to see some progress this week.


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## Zum (Apr 13, 2009)

Your doing a great job.I mean I don't know what it looked like to begin with but looks great.
Why was there Herculiner put down,does it leak?
Jb weld doesn't take to flexing all that well but not sure how much it would flex that close to the transom anyways,you could always try it.


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## ober51 (Apr 13, 2009)

Zum said:


> Your doing a great job.I mean I don't know what it looked like to begin with but looks great.
> Why was there Herculiner put down,does it leak?
> Jb weld doesn't take to flexing all that well but not sure how much it would flex that close to the transom anyways,you could always try it.



Zum, thanks for the post. I was "told" it doesn't leak. Not quite sure - my dad seems to think it probably leaked and that's why that stuff was applied (not applied well). I went ahead and purchased/ordered Steel Flex late last week - so that should seal the outside, no? I plan on putting some water in it to see if it does before I apply that just to see. I'm not all that worried, there are no gashes or anything, but maybe a rivet or two is suspect and I am just not seeing it. 

I made a lot of progress today - relatively speaking. It was taking forever to scrape the stuff off...until my girlfriend's father said, "Here try this." He handed me a heat gun. Leaving it on for about 30 seconds, the stuff started peeling right off with little effort - this would have save me hours had he mentioned his idea before! Oh well, I basically finished off all that, all that remains is getting around the rivets and the transom - and I think I am going to redo that as well. The plywood seems suspect (Herculiner was also applied on there). Didn't take pictures like promised given that you guys will be like, "He barely did anything," lol.

Oh, and any idea on what type of boat this is? Or do you need to see more to determine? And Steel Flex does seal the bottom, no?


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## Stryker777 (Apr 13, 2009)

Looks like the same kind of boat as mine. If you have a picture of the stern, that would be helpful. The seats and bow look like a Sears boat or whoever made them for sears. 

They say steelflex will seal things up but I have no experience so do not take my work for it.


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## ober51 (Apr 14, 2009)

Stryker777 said:


> Looks like the same kind of boat as mine. If you have a picture of the stern, that would be helpful. The seats and bow look like a Sears boat or whoever made them for sears.
> 
> They say steelflex will seal things up but I have no experience so do not take my work for it.




I will take a few more pictures but I suspect you are right. If that's the case, what is the HP rating, weight limit, etc? 

I spent another 6 hours scraping, removing paint, epoxy, etc. today - what a pain. I am trying to get it as close to the metal as possible - or at least very, very smooth given that I will never want to do this again.


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## Stryker777 (Apr 14, 2009)

Good question about the weight. Mine is 675 lbs limit and 18hp. Yours has the extra support on the seats and the ones I saw with those were 725 lbs. The hp is anywhere from 15-25 depending on how your transom is braced. If it has the aluminum sheet as a brace (at the bottom), it is probably 18. If you have a knee brace (much more rigid), it is probably 25. I am adding a better knee brace and frame supports to the transom to beef it up. I don't need anything over 15hp, but would like to have the ability to use a little bigger of an engine if I do find the need. 

I will be sanding off the bottom the rest of the way tomorrow. Hope it goes well. I am going to bare metal with a cup brush. It is slow, but effective. I am guessing another 6 hours tomorrow and I will be ready to weld, rivet, and start my framing. I am going to do the deck framing first so any rivets I use will be covered when I paint. I would hate to have to touch up later. After that, I will paint, then add the plywood and carpet.
Have a good one!


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## ober51 (Apr 14, 2009)

Stryker777 said:


> Good question about the weight. Mine is 675 lbs limit and 18hp. Yours has the extra support on the seats and the ones I saw with those were 725 lbs. The hp is anywhere from 15-25 depending on how your transom is braced. If it has the aluminum sheet as a brace (at the bottom), it is probably 18. If you have a knee brace (much more rigid), it is probably 25. I am adding a better knee brace and frame supports to the transom to beef it up. I don't need anything over 15hp, but would like to have the ability to use a little bigger of an engine if I do find the need.
> 
> I will be sanding off the bottom the rest of the way tomorrow. Hope it goes well. I am going to bare metal with a cup brush. It is slow, but effective. I am guessing another 6 hours tomorrow and I will be ready to weld, rivet, and start my framing. I am going to do the deck framing first so any rivets I use will be covered when I paint. I would hate to have to touch up later. After that, I will paint, then add the plywood and carpet.
> Have a good one!



Ah, thanks for the insight into the HP rating, weight, etc. I think I have a similar transom as you, I really need to post pics, lol. I am going to redo the transom as well - replace with a better wood like oak, and maybe some aluminum. I saw someone here use an aluminum sign and I may have one around here somewhere to use. Even without it, changing the transom is a good idea on this boat. I am also going to WestMarine tomorrow (after checking out BoatersWorld's fire sale) to buy some of the 3M Marine sealant. 

I am excited that we both have a similar boat so I can just see how things are done from a more experienced boater. I am hesitant at this point to do any decking, so that may wait until next year, we'll see. Anyway, thanks again, good luck tomorrow, and post some pictures!


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## ober51 (Apr 15, 2009)

Crappy day here, so I waited for the rain to come...and it really never did, so I missed out on some prepping time, ugh. But I did flip the boat over, inspect, wash, and degrease. I am going to start sanding the upper portions of the hull tomorrow, so I can start preparing for paint. I took some pictures of a couple holes near the transom that I plan on using the JB Weld Marine on (ordered yesterday, so it will be a few days). The transom is also being replaced, bought some oak and stainless steel bolts. The four 3" bolts and locknuts were only $3 bucks at Boatersworld, so that wasn't bad. But I think 3" is only going to get me through one piece of oak on each side, so I may have to go back and buy 4", we'll see. I was going to beef up the transom, but I have decided to just replace, making it more reliable and sturdy - since I don't have any plans on putting anything other than a 9.9 (lakes around here permit only 10 or less).

A couple questions:

1. Can I use Spar Varnish to seal the oak? Is one piece of oak on each side enough? Not going to be putting bigger engine than 9.9. 
2. Should I use marine sealant once the bolts are through? 
3. How do I remove the rivets in the transom (which is how they are attached)? Drill through them? 

Pictures to follow.


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## ober51 (Apr 16, 2009)

I have about 90% of the prepping done. I have just a bit more sanding on some of the outside hull supports and transom. I will then wipe this puppy down with acetone and a tack cloth, letting it air dry. After which, I will apply the Steel Flex that came today (took a week, perfect timing).

I also ripped off the transom (dad helped) and cut out a new one. This one is made from two pieces of oak, glued together, clamped down overnight. Tomorrow I will Spar Varnish, 3 coats (rubbing very fine steel wool in between coats 2 and three). I will also have to cut out the inside transom portion (inside the boat) and pick up 4 more stainless steel nuts and bolts to properly secure the transom. 

Home Depot had Marine 3M 5200 for 10 bucks...and when I got home, realized it was effective until 10/07! Back there tomorrow to complain a bit. 

I will post some pictures tomorrow - I forgot the camera, and I was working from 7am to 8pm today on this boat (it's become an obsession).


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## Stryker777 (Apr 16, 2009)

Good job  Progress on these addictions is always nice. It's cool you have help. I wish my kids wanted to help lol. Are you going to primer? Hope you have a productive weekend!


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## ober51 (Apr 16, 2009)

Stryker777 said:


> Good job  Progress on these addictions is always nice. It's cool you have help. I wish my kids wanted to help lol. Are you going to primer? Hope you have a productive weekend!



I will be up at 7 doing this again, lol. I will not be priming the Steel Flex - just wiping down the sanded aluminum with acetone, letting that dry naturally, then applying. 

I will be priming the upper portion, however. I have bought self-etching primer in a spray can (bought one of those spray gun handles to help), then putting on the Brightside Interlux. I doubt I will get that far tomorrow, but with about 10 hours planned, I might approach it!


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## ober51 (Apr 17, 2009)

ober51 said:


> I have about 90% of the prepping done. I have just a bit more sanding on some of the outside hull supports and transom. I will then wipe this puppy down with acetone and a tack cloth, letting it air dry. After which, I will apply the Steel Flex that came today (took a week, perfect timing).
> 
> I also ripped off the transom (dad helped) and cut out a new one. This one is made from two pieces of oak, glued together, clamped down overnight. Tomorrow I will Spar Varnish, 3 coats (rubbing very fine steel wool in between coats 2 and three). I will also have to cut out the inside transom portion (inside the boat) and pick up 4 more stainless steel nuts and bolts to properly secure the transom.
> 
> ...



Well, a bit of a detour, but still some solid progress. Didn't do the Steel Flex, as some of the holes were still drying. I was able to apply the self etch primer and a coat of the Brightside. It needs 16 hours to dry, so tomorrow at 7am that's what I'll be doing. Unfortunately, the transom is not yet ready (glue still a bit wet) so I just cut out the other piece and varnished that. I'll do the second coat tonight. 

I am hoping for the second coat tomorrow, plus the Steel Flex, but I don't know how I will swing that one. We'll see. Definitely coming along. Pics later, as I took some today.


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## ober51 (Apr 18, 2009)

Here are the pics from yesterday. Completely sanded, wiped with acetone, then a tack cloth, then self etch primer, then Brightside Interlux. This is only the first coat - I did the second this morning (after a light 320 grit sand, and I mean light). Then a tack cloth, then the second coat. I have been rolling the paint, and I really can't complain. Not crazy about the color, thought it would be darker. I'm an idiot, do all this work only to paint it the same color #-o 

Oh well. It's going to look much different with the black steel flex on the bottom. Might do that later (if I dare with the second coat still drying) or tomorrow very, very early, since rain is rolling in tomorrow night. Trying to squeeze this all in, tough to do.

I also am thinking of adding a red pinstripe - an suggestions? Can I add that next week? Just sand the 320 in a taped off area and apply the red Brightside? Is it that simple? Hope this is at least a bit entertaining, it's fun to do! And exhausting, lol.

I will take some more pictures before I go out today - without the newspaper and such. My dad loves it, but my brother thinks it's lame, lol. I'm in between. I think the end result is what matters (and whether or not I like it).


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## Stryker777 (Apr 18, 2009)

Looking good  Keep up the good work. You are going to have a great boat.


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## Zum (Apr 18, 2009)

You have been working hard,looks good.It will look alot different with that steelflex on the bottom.


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## ober51 (Apr 18, 2009)

Stryker777 said:


> Looking good  Keep up the good work. You are going to have a great boat.



Thanks, waiting for the paint to dry is the worst part. I need for it to dry so I can put the painter's tape on it to mark off the point for the Steel Flex. Given that it won't be fully dry until midnight or so tonight, it will have to wait until early tomorrow again - at which point it's probably not a good temp for the Steel Flex to be applied. I'm just not sure what to do about this - try and get it in, then tarp the boat for a few days, or just wait the weather out until I see another good few days in a row? I

Does anyone know if I can apply the Steel flex to about 90% of the places I want, then save the 10% for another day? Will that compromise its strength, durability, etc? Really hoping someone has some insight into that. Maybe I'll just call.


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## ober51 (Apr 18, 2009)

Well I went ahead and Steel Flex'd it - semi disaster! Freaking messy, thick, gels fast, bugs dying on it, but it's on! I did notice I missed a small spot, can I put another coat on? I am hoping it's a yes, because there are brush strokes galore, and being a perfectionist, this kills me. I'll take pictures (far away), but I don't really like the way it came out. I guess it will seal the boat, but I sure hope it dries better than it looks now. And praying I can put a second coat on!


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## Stryker777 (Apr 18, 2009)

It will be fine. And you can apply a second coat. The can should have the directions on it and say how to do it all.


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## ober51 (Apr 19, 2009)

Stryker777 said:


> It will be fine. And you can apply a second coat. The can should have the directions on it and say how to do it all.



Ah, I didn't see the second coat part, but maybe I just missed it. The stuff is awesome, just user error that's all  

Pics will follow - as I just haven't taken them and was preoccupied with other stuff. Thanks, Stryker.


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## ober51 (Apr 19, 2009)

Here are the pictures - I am posting with a bag over my head, so people can learn from my mistakes - Mix the pigment before anything, I'm an idiot and forgot. Also, in my attempt to cover the boat from the elements last night, the side of the tent laid on the epoxy, sticking! Meaning that when I took it off, it left a nasty pattern.

I am PRAYING I can put another coat on, with the same pigment throughout this time, to cover the brush strokes and the nasty part near the front of the boat (and the 3 different shades of black). If you are cringing looking at these pictures, imagine how I feel after doing two weeks of prepping, and ruining the boat with what was supposed to be the most satisfying part. I am really disappointed in myself - I took all the time in the world for the prep and rushed into something I should have thoroughly researched. The product is great, it's the looks part that's killing me. 

Please, if anyone has any ideas, help me out. I will call FASCO tomorrow, but I guess I won't be able to change anything til the weather clears again on Thursday. Ugh, awfully disappointing.


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## Zum (Apr 19, 2009)

Doesn't seem that bad in the pictures,hard to tell in the sunlight and shade.
I have never used the product but I'm sure a second coat will cover any "flaws" you see.
Most of it is going to be under the water,hitting rocks and stuff later when you use it.I'm sure you will be happy in the end.


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## ober51 (Apr 19, 2009)

Zum said:


> Doesn't seem that bad in the pictures,hard to tell in the sunlight and shade.
> I have never used the product but I'm sure a second coat will cover any "flaws" you see.
> Most of it is going to be under the water,hitting rocks and stuff later when you use it.I'm sure you will be happy in the end.




Thanks for your optimism, I need it at this point. I think *IF *I can get a second coat on, I'll be happier. But I'm just not sure if that's the case. The first coat works so well because it's on bare aluminum, but will the second coat even stick to a super click coat of itself?


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## Stryker777 (Apr 19, 2009)

I don't have the instructions for your paint, but from what I have read (while looking for the answer for you), most 100% solids epoxy based paints should be sanded and repainted with 48 hours. You may want to find out real soon.


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## ober51 (Apr 19, 2009)

Stryker777 said:


> I don't have the instructions for your paint, but from what I have read (while looking for the answer for you), most 100% solids epoxy based paints should be sanded and repainted with 48 hours. You may want to find out real soon.



Unless I am missing something, I don't think it mentions anything about applying a second coat. FASCO is open tomorrow early, but it is going to rain, meaning I am probably in trouble here. I have also researched and found the 48 hour thing, so that gives me until tomorrow at 2-3. I hope FASCO gives me better news.

EDIT: Though I did find this: Recoat window for two-part urethanes is about 6 to 16 hours (Bad). Beyond that, sand lightly (Good). Apply only in good, dry weather, as urethanes are moisture sensitive during application and curing. The coating will become dry overnight, hard in about 3 days, with maximum hardness in 7-10 days.


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## ober51 (Apr 20, 2009)

Stryker777 said:


> I don't have the instructions for your paint, but from what I have read (while looking for the answer for you), most 100% solids epoxy based paints should be sanded and repainted with 48 hours. You may want to find out real soon.



Called FASCO and they told me that I just need to scuff up the hardened epoxy with 60 or 80 grit, wipe with acetone, and apply the second coat. This makes me feel much better, as I was literally in panic mode.


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## Brine (Apr 20, 2009)

Sorry Bud,

I just saw your post or I would have chimed in earlier. I put Steelflex on about a month ago. Definitely not the easiest product to work with. I think if you rough up the first coat good, the second coat wont have a problems sticking, although the second coat really should have been applied while the first coat was tacky. I say that after the fact now for someone else's benefit. 

Don't feel too bad. I had the same anxiety about the appearance, but like someone said before, it's the bottom of the boat and the money spent was really all about function, not cosmetics anyway. Not to mention, the second coat will make it look better.

The boat is looking good!


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## Stryker777 (Apr 20, 2009)

Glad to hear it!


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## ober51 (Apr 20, 2009)

Thanks, guys. I will feel a lot better once that coat is on. I have plenty of the Steel Flex left, so it won't be a problem. Yeah, I hope my trials and tribulations will help someone after me.

Here is what I learned about applying Steel Flex:

1. Have a good workspace with no wind. The wind was fine and only blew twice, but once at the very beginning, putting debris on everything. I will now keep the stuff shielded by something, or put it in a cardboard box.
2. Although this is clearly stated in the directions and by others on here, mix the pigment in first. This will ensure a proper color and will not increase hardening at all.
3. Work fast, but efficiently. The stuff sets quickly, so mixing a small portion at a time will help out. The only draw back is having to mix the 2 parts more often, which for me, was the worst part. 
4. Don't try and pour out the stuff, use something else, like a cup or a ladle (which I will be using for the next coat). 
5. Be as precise as possible - measuring them equally is very important, try not to eyeball. Too much hardener, and it will set even more quickly. 
6. Try not to backtrack. Put enough on your brush to get it on the boat (or other surface), apply it, and move on. By trying to be perfect, especially with the black, you will get brushstrokes. 
7. Don't panic. The more important thing is to seal the boat - and you can always order more or put on another coat. 

I hope this helps someone, given that I was freaking out, lol. Oh well. I just need to scuff up the surface again, and reapply. I set myself back, but at least I know it will be fine.


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## ober51 (Apr 22, 2009)

Sanded down the transom, which was finally dried/cured, and applied the first coat of spar urethane. Will continue to do that, with another coat either tonight or wait until tomorrow.

**I have found a great deal on a 16' Monark Jon, which may take this project in another direction...aka cut it short. I do, however, plan on touching up the Steel flex, finishing the trim on the paint, and giving a coat of paint to the inside floor. At that point, if I am able to get this boat, I will sell this one. Either way, I will be continuing this or another one. 

I'll post some pics once the transom starts to look a bit better.


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## ober51 (Apr 24, 2009)

Here are a few pictures of the outside. I am waiting for the last coat of varnish to dry, then I will attach the transom. 

I must have let the painter's tape sit too long, because when I took it off, off came some Interlux Brightside with it. So there will be some touch up, doh #-o 

But I am fairly happy with how the outside turned out. When the second spot coating of Steel Flex dries, I will flip it over, and sand, prime, and paint the inside.


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## Stryker777 (Apr 24, 2009)

Looks much better  Good job!


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## Zum (Apr 24, 2009)

Looks nice,are you going to keep,try it?


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## ober51 (Apr 24, 2009)

Zum said:


> Looks nice,are you going to keep,try it?



Thanks, Zum. It really depends on Sunday morning. I am going to look at a 16' Monark Jon for very cheap. If it is even halfway decent, I will likely buy it and sell this. I want the extra couple feet and the ability to mod the heck out of the Monark. Obviously, if that jon falls through, I will be keeping this for at least the time being.


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## ober51 (Apr 25, 2009)

Welp, it's done...for now. Haven't decided whether to keep or sell. That decision gets made for tomorrow. A lot of work went into just this, but my does she look a lot better, lol. Amazing what about 100 hours and 100 bucks in paint can do. 

Hope it came out alright!


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## Zum (Apr 25, 2009)

Looks like it came out nice to me.
Whatever you decide,you did good work.


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## RBuffordTJ (Apr 25, 2009)

That is some great work.


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## ober51 (Apr 26, 2009)

RBuffordTJ said:


> That is some great work.



Thanks, I appreciate it.


So I bought the 16' Monark (see other thread in Boat Modifications main forum) and a 15 HP J/E. So this baby is up for sale. I am a bit sad since this was my first boat and came out pretty nice, but hey, it was a great learning experience. Should save some time next go around, which should be soon. Thanks all for the help and suggestions!


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## Zum (Apr 26, 2009)

New show...Flip that boat.
Hope she sells at a good price for you so you can start a modding again.


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## ober51 (Apr 26, 2009)

Zum said:


> New show...Flip that boat.
> Hope she sells at a good price for you so you can start a modding again.



You and me both, Zum. I bought for 300, put 35 in oak, 100 in paint, 50 in etching primer, and 50 for odds and ends. Only asking 600, so I am barely making anything (nevermind labor, lol). I would like for it to go to someone who will treat it well and get good use out of it. Several have called already, but who knows. Just want to sell to get the new one moving, since my house isn't zone for a marina


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## baptistpreach (May 4, 2009)

Great work! And great decision to buy a Monark!! We're a growing bunch! Anyhow, your boat turned out great, and I'd say you should ask higher (personally). You put a LOT of work in this boat, and I can't wait to see how the next one turns out.


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## ober51 (May 4, 2009)

baptistpreach said:


> Great work! And great decision to buy a Monark!! We're a growing bunch! Anyhow, your boat turned out great, and I'd say you should ask higher (personally). You put a LOT of work in this boat, and I can't wait to see how the next one turns out.



Thanks again, Preach, appreciate it. I think I could have asked higher, but people around here are funny, some of the most accumulated wealth in the country, but I've gotten some really lowball offers. I have also seen some boats that are much worse than mine posted for more money on Craigslist, but I thought it was a good, fair price. I understand the time being tight, so I didn't ask for the extra hundred or so. I am actually not really looking to make a profit at all, I just want to break even so I can start on the next one. All told, if I sold it for 600, I bet I would be making less than $75 bucks on the thing.


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## BHAF4163 (Aug 27, 2010)

Awesome job on the boat. I have 1972 Delhi, and a 1982 Eldo-Craft that I'm working on.


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## acedog1234 (Mar 7, 2011)

if your not shure what kind of boat this is i pretty shure it is 60 model sea nymph looking at the pics thats what conclusion ive come to i have a 1968 sea nymph that look just like your boat in all ways    8)


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