# Keel Guard for Sea Ark - Solution & Pics Added



## shootandfish1 (Jul 24, 2013)

Hi folks, I need your help.

I have to 'beach' my boat on concrete ramps when launching/loading. I've tried to be careful and not let the boat 'drag' on the concrete. This evening, I was underneath the boat and got that 'sick' feeling. About 12-14 inches of the keel is showing some decent abrasion. I've only had the boat 4 times and thankfully, Sea Ark uses 3/16 in material for their keel. Don't think that I've done any serious damage, but I want to address this ASAP.

I'm looking for 2 solutions, First, something 'quick and dirty', even if I have to apply each time I go out, and a more permanent solution that can be addressed this winter.

Thoughts? I'm going to call Sea Ark, see if they can offer any ideas, but would like to hear some wisdom from the crew here.

Short term, I thinking some kind of paint, bed liner? Go ahead and chuckle, But I'm seriously considering 'layering' Gorilla Tape over this section of the keel.

Thoughts and comment are truly appreciated - Fred


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## Bailey Boat (Jul 25, 2013)

Break down and get a Keel Guard, that's what they are made for but be sure to order the one for Aluminum boats, not glass and follow the directions to the T......PS: a buddy helping is also priceless when it comes to the final attachment.


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## shootandfish1 (Aug 27, 2013)

OP back- Just wanted to follow up and share what I came up with.

Tech Support from Hamby's and Keel Shield told me that the pre-made keel guards will not work due to the shape of keel extrusion. 

I consulted Line-X and although they was eager apply material, I could not get firm answers on how well the coating would handle abrasion from concrete ramps, and Line-X needed to coat the entire bottom hull, up the sides above the water line. This was going to be a costly.

Ended up having a local welder attach a length of 3/4" square bar aluminum to the keel. I went a little longer than needed, making sure that I had plenty of length for weld strength and tapered the ends so they would not catch or snag. The basic plan is to watch for wear and add material to this piece as needed. Protecting the kilgores is not as critical, but I still need to address them. I'm looking to have my welder attach 1/2" square stock similar to the 3/4" piece.

Before showing abrasion







Welded 'Keel Guard', Look close and one can see where I ended the strip, about 2 ft past the damaged section. (bottom pic)


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## Ranchero50 (Aug 27, 2013)

Looks good. I have to land on a ramp as well. My biggest suggestion is don't hit the ramp. I nose up to it and the kid walks off and lifts the front as he pulls it up the ramp to beach it. The boat doesn't scrape on the concrete so suffers no damage. For your strakes and sides, a foot of 1/8" x 1" angle should work well. That's what I used as a keel when I extended my nose and it's held up fine vs. the local ramp.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Aug 27, 2013)

Look up ice runners on sea arks web site. It basically aluminum angle welded to each strake. There used a lot in water fowling in icy waters


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## shootandfish1 (Aug 27, 2013)

hindsight is always 20/20. for sure, my next Sea Ark will have ice-runners.

To have the factory add them now would be costly, travel, de-rig and re-rig (Factory has to 'flip' the boat), plus labor and material.

Having the 1/2" square bar added locally seems to be the most 'practical' thing to do. I don't believe my local welder would be able to weld an angle shape and follow the contours as well as he can a square bar.

Which brings me to my next 'hurdle'. What is a good way to raise and support the boat (Modified-V, 3 deg. hull) about 6 in. or so straight up from the bunks?


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Aug 28, 2013)

Lower the tongue of the trailer all the way down this will raise the transom higher. Put blocking under the rear of the boat and raise the tongue up high. The boat should now be up off the bunks.


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## wihil (Aug 29, 2013)

maybe the wrong way to look at the problem, but if you're only beaching it a foot or so, why not just carry a chunk of carpet square with a dummy cord so you can tie it off to the bow?

Toss it on the ramp and pull the boat on to it - not the concrete. Then when you're ready to go just hop in, back the boat out, then pull up the square with the dummy line. Stow and go...

Yeah it's messy, but is cheap and easy to replace.


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## shootandfish1 (Aug 31, 2013)

I had considered the 'scrap piece of carpet' idea, but the bow for the Sea Arks is quite long, placeing the actual contact point pretty far back from the front. Keeping the carpet in position would be the problem as this area is still in the water.

It's all moot, anyhow. Today I had strips welded to all the kilgores (ribs), so I have pretty well protected the boat from 'beaching on concrete ramps'.

Welder used the 3/4 in sq bar instead of the 1/2 in and I'm well pleased with how the project turned-out. 

Fred


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Aug 31, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=327962#p327962 said:


> shootandfish1 » Fri Aug 30, 2013 11:03 pm[/url]"]I had considered the 'scrap piece of carpet' idea, but the bow for the Sea Arks is quite long, placeing the actual contact point pretty far back from the front. Keeping the carpet in position would be the problem as this area is still in the water.
> 
> It's all moot, anyhow. Today I had strips welded to all the kilgores (ribs), so I have pretty well protected the boat from 'beaching on concrete ramps'.
> 
> ...


Pictures of the finished job please. How much did it cost? if your willing to share.


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## shootandfish1 (Aug 31, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=327982#p327982 said:


> lckstckn2smknbrls » Today, 11:52[/url]"]
> 
> 
> [url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=327962#p327962 said:
> ...



I will take some more pics soon as I can. (currently too rainly, wife has to 'let' me use her camera, ect.).

Cost??? I spent a chunk of change--$700 for labor and material and I consider the amount a bargain. I wanted a permanent solution that would protect the keel and kilgores and allow for 'wear'. I went 'over-board' (pun intended) in the length of strips welded at this point trying to visualize how different situations will affect 'rubbed' areas, flat to steep ramps, lakes to swifter current. 


Luckily, I was able to find a local welder trained and qualified in aluminum, and was willing to put forth the extra effort in bending the metal in a smooth curve that followed the contours of the hull. About 10 hrs. for the welder, his helper plus 43 linear feet of 3/4 inch square stock. As my intent is for these strips to never come off, I had these pieces full-length welded.

As the keel piece wears, say 1/4 in or so, my plan is to weld thinner strips where abrasion is showing, tapering the ends, thus keeping the overall thickness down. avoiding the 'beer-belly' look. My thoughts are that the kilgores should not ever need any added metal, but it won't be a big deal if necessary.


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## RiverBottomOutdoors (Sep 3, 2013)

I put my boat on concrete all the time and never have an issue. Looks like you are running your boat onto the concrete by the looks of the gouges. 

I get my bow close without touching, step off, lift up on the bow, pull the boat up and gently sit it down on the ramp.


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