# everything steelflex



## TTSam

I just got off the phone with Fasco. Spoke with a nice lady but could not really understand her nor could she really help me. She gave me an email to send my order request but what I need to know is how much should I get. I was told 3 quarts is $47.00(this is the non teflon) and 1 gallon $107.00. My boat is 15 long and 5 wide. I just want to do the bottom and up the side say 8-10 inches. I have read that many have had plenty left over after multi coats. How much they bought, I have no idea. Any help would be appreciated.


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## Bugpac

I think 2 qts is 47.00, may be wrong, wouldn't make sense to pay 2x as much for 25% more... anyhow i bough 1 gallon, 2 qts of each part, I painted my entire boat, 3" down on the inside, and my trailer, the trailer could have used more, I wasted maybe 1-1.5 pints, and i have about 1oz left for a touchup, Likely will not last tho... 16' mod v boat.. I put about 3 coats on the entire boat if I recall... Maybe it was only 2.. It did not make sense to me, to try and paint the top half with something different for the cost reasons... I do have several chips in the rub rail tho, from different things..


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## TTSam

Thanks for the info.


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## Bugpac

I should add, I bought the recommended Solvent resistant roller, It still has hairs in the finish, It looks textured, The steelflex is some very very sticky stuff... I was told by the fasco tech, you could no way spray the non teflon, but the teflon stuff could be sprayed..


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## TTSam

ok thanks


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## Nussy

Just a couple weeks ago I paid 
$42/gal
$7/pigment
$16.37 shipping
for the regular stuff

The $105 has to be for the 2000 version with the Teflon. Having worked with both the regular and Teflon you might want to change to the regular stuff. It's cheaper and you can put multiple coats on. It also can be painted. 

I put it on a 16.5 footer, probably have about half left. See link in signature for both my builds. The Mirrocraft has the 2000 version, and the Sea Nymph has the regular stuff. I actually like the way the regular stuff looks better too, it has a glossier finish. 

I used foam rollers from a local him improvement store. They worked fine but you need a lot of them(like 10). This stuff is hard to work with and you really need to push it around a lot.


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## Bugpac

You know what, I think i got 2 gallons come to think of it...


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## Nussy

Bugpac said:


> You know what, I think i got 2 gallons come to think of it...


1 gallon comes in 2, 1/2 gallon containers. That's probably what you have. A gallon goes a long way. For some reason the bottom seams to take a lot more product than that sides.....at least it did for me.


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## Bugpac

Nussy said:


> Bugpac said:
> 
> 
> 
> You know what, I think i got 2 gallons come to think of it...
> 
> 
> 
> 1 gallon comes in 2, 1/2 gallon containers. That's probably what you have. A gallon goes a long way. For some reason the bottom seams to take a lot more product than that sides.....at least it did for me.
Click to expand...


I got 4 cans. and 2 pigment, was like 109.00 I was thinking when he posted the cans were qts... I remember now, especially after seeing the price.. and truthfully, it may be 3 qts come to think of it, the cans were down a ways from the brim, I am guessing if measured there is not 1 gallon of material when mixed..


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## TTSam

I was asking for the non teflon version. I know she said 3 quarts $47.00.


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## rusmir

do i primer the whole boat and the then put steelflex on or just steelflex or bare aluminum i didnt had time to find out.. im getting closer to start out my project ..


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## Brine

No need to use primer. If the paint that's on the boat now sticks good, just rough up the surface so the Steelflex has something to grab. It the paint is flaking off, remove as much paint/primer to get down to the first solid layer and make sure it is roughed up. Just take into consideration that the most outer layer of paint/epoxy (in your case would be Steeflex) is dependend upon the layers between it and the hull. Most people like to remove everything down to the bare aluminum (myself included) but it isn't neccessary.


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## rusmir

Tx


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## caten in wv

hey guys i see yall talking about steelflex and when i do find a new boat i would like to use it on it where do ya find steelflex i have done searches but havent found anything yet well i might have and not reliazed it


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## dyeguy1212

https://www.fascoepoxies.com/


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## caten in wv

thanks i dident see the price list do you just call to find out


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## Bugpac

caten in wv said:


> thanks i dident see the price list do you just call to find out



Yes, they are prehistoric still...  Dont expect to pay with your cc either. Cod or mail prepayment, Like I said, prehistoric...


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## caten in wv

ok thanks i will give them a call


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## is300n8

I was just wondering if any of you have tried applying steelflex on a boat thats not flipped over.. My boat is a 15ft sea nymph side console and i dont feel like stripping it down again to flip it over.. any help would be appreciated thank you..


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## Nussy

It would be really hard to apply upside down. It take a lot of work to push the product around. Nothing like rolling paint on. My recommendation for you would be to tip it on it's side and do half. Then tip it on it's other side and finish it.


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## Troutman3000

Which kind should I order for my jon boat????


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## Troutman3000

If you remove it to the alluminum should you use an etching primer?


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## Brine

Troutman3000 said:


> If you remove it to the alluminum should you use an etching primer?



No, not with steelflex. The product has no problems with adhesion.


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## Brine

Troutman3000 said:


> Which kind should I order for my jon boat????



The less expensive version without the teflon.


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## Troutman3000

So you need just a gallon to do a normal sized Jon boat? 

Non-Teflon is the reccomendation?

What exactly should I call and order from these folks??????



Thanks,

Jason


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## Troutman3000

Thanks.

1 gallon? What is the pigment?


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## Troutman3000

Brine said:


> Troutman3000 said:
> 
> 
> 
> If you remove it to the alluminum should you use an etching primer?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No, not with steelflex. The product has no problems with adhesion.
Click to expand...


Thanks


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## Brine

Troutman3000 said:


> Thanks.
> 
> 1 gallon? What is the pigment?



1 gallon should be enough. The pigment is the coloring added.


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## Brine

We have Steelflex overload on the board. Any way to combine these?


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## Bugpac

Ok, gonna merge up some stuff here. should be everything you need to know about steelflex when its over...


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## Troutman3000

Bugpac said:


> Ok, gonna merge up some stuff here. she be everything you need to know about steelflex when its over...


 =D>


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## Troutman3000

Which One is the normal one????

FASCO STOCK ITEMS

Call or fax us for our complete detailed catalog and for instruction sheets. If you don't see what you are looking for below, ask us.

Many of our products are not stock items. 

FAST-SETTING WHITE 
EPOXY PASTE #88 Sets in 6 minutes any thickness. Feather edges in 45 minutes. High impact strength. Strong adhesive to Urethane, fiberglass, metal, foam, glass, wood 
EPOXY LIQUID OR
PASTE CLEAR #88 Fast setting epoxy liquid that is two part equal mix. Set in 6 minutes no matter the thickness. Epoxo 88 Clear also comes in a clear paste.. 
SUPERFLEX GREY #88 A more flexible version of Epoxo 88 for greater elasticity and impact resistance. Recommended for flexible plastic parts, urethane auto bumpers and repair of air bags. 
SUPER STEELFLEX #9XS 100% solids. Superior chemical resistance. Excellent for Skydrol, Xylol, sulfuric acid, sea water, gasoline, diesel fuel etc. Good for gas and oil tank containment areas. 
STEELFLEX CLEAR,
NUETRAL, WHITE #9X Good over teak deck for recoating, leaks, improve bonding where teak is no longer desired. Good for pontoons, foam ice box, photo development sink, aluminum and fiberglass.Used since 1961 for airboat bottoms. 
STEELFLEX HI-GLOSS TABLE
TOP COATING 9X-CL-WC Clear epoxy coating for wood, hatch covers, slabs, bar tops, furniture. This is a 2 to 1 mixture. 
CLOCK-EPOX #55 Clear epoxy coating for thick protective coatings on exotic wood, clocks, plaques, decoupage etc. 
FLEXO # 12 Flexible epoxy where great flexibility and toughness is required. Will not shrink or crack. Excellent adhesion, outstanding chemical resistance, tight sealant against moisture, etc. Superior caulking & sealing compound. 
LOW VISCOSITY EPOXY RESIN #103 LVX Very low viscosity laminating resin. Enables the laminator to produce high tensile strength lay ups with maximum wetting out. Best for penetration. 
MARINE PRIMER 
SURFACE #36 White primer surfacer for fiberglass where most any paint can be used as a top coat. This is a chlorinated rubber base synthetic primer. Surfacer has excellent adhesion, good sanding qualities, can be tinted and can be used as an exterior flat finish. 
CLEAR STEEL #60 Urethane varnish containing UV inhibitor for maximum sun protection. Excellent for marine use and exterior woodwork. 
IRONCOTE EPOXY PAINT #51 High Gloss. Excellent marine paint, warehouse floors, fiberglass. Good toughness, abrasion and chemical resistance.. 
FAS-STICK #110 Strongest bonding material yet developed. Metal to wood, glass to wood, metal to fiberglass, aluminum to glass, plexiglass to wood, foam to metal, concrete to wood, glass to concrete, wood to metal, marble to concrete. 
LOW VISCOSITY 103-LVX For For concrete repairs. Can be mixed with sand to fill in large holes and cracks in concrete. Can lag bolts into concrete. Good for heavy forklift traffic. Can bring it from 2" down to zeo with no breaking away. 
FAS-FOAM #65 Expands to 30 times its original liquid state volume. Extremely buoyant, chemically inert. Used around fuel tanks in boats. Bond silk plants in pots. 
FAS-STONE #7 Epoxy putty for repairing concrete metal, wood, fiberglass etc. Bonds new concrete to old. Thick white putty used on dry to damp surfaces and underwater. 
WATER BASED EPOXY COATING #50WR Excellent adhesion and abrasion resistance. Good for painting sinks and bathtubs. Clean up with water. Non flammable. 
STEELFLEX SUPER SLICK EPOXY COATING #9X-2000 For airboats. Super slick surface is produced in one operation. Not necessary to spray an additional topcoat. Contains Teflon plus additional friction red additives. 
CLEAR EPOXY CASTING 
RESIN #34 Water clear. Low viscosity, thin like water. Practically no fumes Virtually no shrinkage. Non toxic when cured. Slow set to allow bubble release. 
23 ULTRA CLEAR PLUS High build coating for decorative panels, bars, table tops. 
FAS-STEEL #6000 Metallized epoxy compound. Fast, dependable repair of all metallic surfaces. 
CLEAR GLOSS #39 Low cost, high build clear coating for tables and bar tops. Protective coating over styrofoam. Strengthens styrofoam without attacking it. 
ZINC RICH EPOXY 
PRIMER #53 A highly durable corrosion preventive primer for use on steel, galvanized steel or previously painted surfaces. Excellent on boat lifts, used on forks or forklift taking boats out of water to protect the metal.

SUPERSHINE #72 Chatahoochee sealer. One part, no mixing. 
EPOXY SEALER #92 For re-gluing loose rocks and restoring shine on chatahoochee. 
RODAFLEX #70 Urethane varnish with high percentage UV absorber for maximum exterior protection. 
STOP ROT #99 Penetrates into pores of wood and stops rot. Rotted areas are impregnated with the resin and hardener into a flexible solid mass which no longer rots. 
FISHING ROD FINISH #39PF Yellow resistant epoxy for fishing rod threads. 
FASCO-LITE #75 Clear Urethane floor coating. One part, no mixing 
MARBLE EPOXY COMPOUND #26MEC Gluing and repairing marble surfaces. 
FAS FAIR #26 Epoxy light weight faring compound. Faring boat hull, sculptures, statues, etc. 
FAS-REZ #101 Polyester bonding resin for repairing boat floors, transom, bait wells and rusted out car or truck bodies. 
COAL TAR EPOXY #54 Polymid cured epoxy containing coal tar. Great toughness, adhesion and ultra violet resistance combined with extremely high moisture resistance. Protects against substrates exposed to corrosive atmosphere 
FAS-STONE #7UW Especially for underwater repairs. Very thick to fill in voids in submerged concrete, wood, steel or fiberglass. 
FEP #77 Fast setting epoxy putty. Sets in 4 minutes. Very thick yet light weight. Good for vertical, overhead gluing and filling. Does not sag


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## Brine

Troutman3000 said:


> Which One is the normal one????
> *STEELFLEX CLEAR, NUETRAL, WHITE #9X *Good over teak deck for recoating, leaks, improve bonding where teak is no longer desired. Good for pontoons, foam ice box, photo development sink, aluminum and fiberglass.Used since 1961 for airboat bottoms. .


Not pictured is the small container of the colorant of your choice.


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## dyeguy1212

Anybody know all the colors available?


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## caten in wv

i just talked to them they said we have alot of selections


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## Bugpac

You have to use neutral to color it.. They have i believe red/blue/black/white and olive drab..


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## dyeguy1212

Bugpac said:


> You have to use neutral to color it.. They have i believe red/blue/*black*/white and olive drab..




Thats what I needed to know, thanks.


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## Brine

For those looking for a color outside of standard....If I'm not mistaken, it could be matched to anything if you had someone at a paintstore add colorant. Jerry at Fasco could confirm that.


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## dyeguy1212

I've heard the same^


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## rusmir

wow great info .. great topic i also had almost the same questions.. 

for my 14ft jon boat that has the bottom 4ft and top 6ft long how much steel flex would i need . i would like to to also my entire boat  =D> :mrgreen:


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## Bugpac

I did a 16' mod v and my trailer with 2 gallons.. I think.. Its 49.00 gallon right?


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## dyeguy1212

I wonder what clear ends up looking like... Might be kind of cool to strip the entire boat and give it a clear coat 8)


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## Bugpac

Neutral isn't clear, it was like creme colored..


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## rusmir

Thats not bad so i need aprox 2. Gallons. And what is it called again i would preffer like greenish color


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## Bugpac

Olive drab, I am pretty sure i had 2 gallons, I was thinking it was sold 49 per gallon, If it was 2 qts then i used a gallon, It was 110.00 shipped whatever it was..


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## rusmir

So when i call what do i ask for and order .product name


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## Troutman3000

rusmir said:


> So when i call what do i ask for and order .product name





STEELFLEX CLEAR,
NUETRAL, WHITE #9X Good over teak deck for recoating, leaks, improve bonding where teak is no longer desired. Good for pontoons, foam ice box, photo development sink, aluminum and fiberglass.Used since 1961 for airboat bottoms. 



Also it has been determined that you can panit over the non teflon type, correct?


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## rusmir

Ok tx . Also another question can u paint over steelflex


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## Troutman3000

rusmir said:


> Ok tx . Also another question can u paint over steelflex




I have seen that a few guys have had no problem painting over it.


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## rusmir

Great


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## Brine

Troutman3000 said:


> rusmir said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ok tx . Also another question can u paint over steelflex
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have seen that a few guys have had no problem painting over it.
Click to expand...


Really??? Could you post the links?

I have not seen that. I have seen someone who tried, and it didn't stick.


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## Troutman3000

Brine said:


> Troutman3000 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> rusmir said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ok tx . Also another question can u paint over steelflex
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have seen that a few guys have had no problem painting over it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Really??? Could you post the links?
> 
> I have not seen that. I have seen someone who tried, and it didn't stick.
Click to expand...



"Nussy" has said a couple of times that you can paint on it....I just took his word for it.


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## damifinowfish

Does this help seal up those tiny leaks around rivets?

Do they make a flat non shinny type?

Damifinow Fish


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## rusmir

try this .. thats how i will do it but with a high low pressure sprayer gun.. ill keep it posted 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yg3_UvZeeOs

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=camo+painting+boat&search_type=&aq=f


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## Bugpac

I was told by the guy at fasco, you can not spray the non teflon steelflex...


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## rusmir

The steelflex i will roll on but the paint i will spray. Give it a nice camo pattern of natural look


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## Brine

Troutman3000 said:


> "Nussy" has said a couple of times that you can paint on it....I just took his word for it.



Well, I would like to see the results of someone who has. 

All I've seen on here is either paint that won't stick or camo clad peeling off in sheets. I Can't verify that Steelflex was the reason for either, but seeing how I've used it myself, I would think that you won't get paint to stick to it (for any extended amount of time anyway) without sanding the surface, which (for me) defeats the reason of why I used it.


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## Troutman3000

Brine said:


> Troutman3000 said:
> 
> 
> 
> "Nussy" has said a couple of times that you can paint on it....I just took his word for it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I would like to see the results of someone who has.
> 
> All I've seen on here is either paint that won't stick or camo clad peeling off in sheets. I Can't verify that Steelflex was the reason for either, but seeing how I've used it myself, I would think that you won't get paint to stick to it (for any extended amount of time anyway) without sanding the surface, which (for me) defeats the reason of why I used it.
Click to expand...



I intend to ask about this when I order mine this week. How long does it take to get it?


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## Nick Jones

I am painting the steelflex that is on the sides of my boat. I just got through self etching the entire boat this weekend. I roughed up the sides with 150 sandpaper and self etched it again. I left the bottom of the boat alone. I plan to Camo it this upcoming weekend if my stencils come in. I guess just check my post out in the next few weeks to see if it bonded correctly.


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## Nussy

Fasco told me you can only paint the standard Steelflex. The 2000 version has teflon and paint won't stick to it. You also can't apply the 2000 in multiple coats. I recommend the regular stuff. 

P.S. I believe Dearl painted over Steelflex in his build. I chose to just use colored Steelflex instead.


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## rusmir

Ok


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## Nussy

I see a few posts in this thread about quantity. In both my builds I bought a gallon and it was more than enough to do the entire boat. I didn't go all the way up the sides but I had more than enought left over to complete the job. 

I also see some questions about spraying it on. I believe you can only spray the teflon version......Although being as thick as it is I don't see how you could spray it without gumming everything up. I used a 4" foam roller(like 10 or 12 of them since you really have to push it around hard).


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## rusmir

COOL I LOVE THIS SITE AND THE FORUM .. GREAT INFO FROM EVRYBODY


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## Troutman3000

Nussy said:


> I see a few posts in this thread about quantity. In both my builds I bought a gallon and it was more than enough to do the entire boat. I didn't go all the way up the sides but I had more than enought left over to complete the job.
> 
> I also see some questions about spraying it on. I believe you can only spray the teflon version......Although being as thick as it is I don't see how you could spray it without gumming everything up. I used a 4" foam roller(like 10 or 12 of them since you really have to push it around hard).



How much was this? 47 plus shipping plus pigment?


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## Nussy

$42 for the Steelflex Neutral, $7 for pigment $16,37 for shipping =$65.37


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## Bugpac

Nussy said:


> $42 for the Steelflex Neutral, $7 for pigment $16,37 for shipping =$65.37


 that was a gallon right, it came in 2 parts in 2qt cans?


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## Nussy

Bugpac said:


> Nussy said:
> 
> 
> 
> $42 for the Steelflex Neutral, $7 for pigment $16,37 for shipping =$65.37
> 
> 
> 
> that was a gallon right, it came in 2 parts in 2qt cans?
Click to expand...


Yes.


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## AcuDoc

Has anyone used this stuff?

I am thinking of taking out my floor boards and coating the inside of the boat to seal any pinhole leaks and to strengthen the hull.

https://www.glazecoat.com/Coat%20it.htm


How about spraying on rhino liner etc. Is it or the above flexible enough for an aluminum boat?

What about Gluvit?

https://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/Fiberglass_Epoxy_Resin-TRAVECO_GLUV_IT_EPOXY_SEALER.html

thanks in advance.


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## dyeguy1212

Search function should give you some results.


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## dyeguy1212

btw that glaze coat looks like a cheap way to seal the crap out of wood decks... now youve got me thinking..... :idea:


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## ober51

Really surprised Tinboats hasn't partnered with Steel Flex in some cpacity. An official sponsor and maybe a discount of some sort. Seems like a lot of us have used this stuff with great success.


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## dyeguy1212

ober51 said:


> Really surprised Tinboats hasn't partnered with Steel Flex in some cpacity. An official sponsor and maybe a discount of some sort. Seems like a lot of us have used this stuff with great success.



I think the problem is that they are still living in the stoneage, so forum sponsorships probably aren't a top priority. I mean they don;t even offer online ordering, or ordering with a credit card.

Plus, they don;t have to offer a deal when they know you'll pay full price :?


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## Troutman3000

Anybody got some intructions sheets on how to order this stuff? I want to prepay but what types of payment do they take?

Jason


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## beetlespin

ober51 said:


> Really surprised Tinboats hasn't partnered with Steel Flex in some cpacity. An official sponsor and maybe a discount of some sort. Seems like a lot of us have used this stuff with great success.



Reality is we are probably .0000001% of their business.


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## RStewart

Troutman3000 said:


> Anybody got some intructions sheets on how to order this stuff? I want to prepay but what types of payment do they take?
> 
> Jason


 just call and place your order and send a check. they will ship product when they receive your payment.


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## Troutman3000

stew6371 said:


> Troutman3000 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody got some intructions sheets on how to order this stuff? I want to prepay but what types of payment do they take?
> 
> Jason
> 
> 
> 
> just call and place your order and send a check. they will ship product when they receive your payment.
Click to expand...


Olive Drab or Black? Which will hide the dents better?


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## Brine

Didn't read if you're doing the whole boat, or just the bottom. If it's the whole boat, I would not use black. Bugpac did his whole boat out of the Olive, and it turned out good. If you have a color in mind, you can have a paint store shoot you whatever colorant you want. 

IMO, black shows more dents than any other color.


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## Troutman3000

Brine said:


> Didn't read if you're doing the whole boat, or just the bottom. If it's the whole boat, I would not use black. Bugpac did his whole boat out of the Olive, and it turned out good. If you have a color in mind, you can have a paint store shoot you whatever colorant you want.
> 
> IMO, black shows more dents than any other color.



Thats what i thought. I changed and went with the drab. I figured I could probably do the entire outside of the boat and skip painting it. That seems more feasible for my time and money given that I wont need additonal painting supplies and most have a lot left over once they do the bottom.

J


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## Bugpac

Troutman, how much are you ordering? I did mine cod, It cost 9.00 more or something, but was much easier for me than sending the check etc.. I need about 1/2 pint to fix a few spots on my boat..


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## Troutman3000

Bugpac said:


> Troutman, how much are you ordering? I did mine cod, It cost 9.00 more or something, but was much easier for me than sending the check etc.. I need about 1/2 pint to fix a few spots on my boat..




I was getting a gallon and plan on doing the entire outside of the boat. I plan on sending in the check because I have some time to wait while it gets welded. I can work on a lot of things until it comes in. Im not sure if I will have any left over or not. You can use some for your touch up if you take me to some of your fishing holes/


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## Bugpac

Troutman3000 said:


> Bugpac said:
> 
> 
> 
> Troutman, how much are you ordering? I did mine cod, It cost 9.00 more or something, but was much easier for me than sending the check etc.. I need about 1/2 pint to fix a few spots on my boat..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was getting a gallon and plan on doing the entire outside of the boat. I plan on sending in the check because I have some time to wait while it gets welded. I can work on a lot of things until it comes in. Im not sure if I will have any left over or not. You can use some for your touch up if you take me to some of your fishing holes/
Click to expand...


Ill take you anytime, Cant guarantee you'll catch anything, but i will take ya...  My anticipation is that Yargo will be on fire bad weekend after next.. It is down 8' and the water is warming.. The ramp is not passible, But ill fix that next week when i get back...


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## cali27

can i put this stuff on a new boat?is there a point? what would the steps be?


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## dyeguy1212

Only point would be preventative maintenance, and a little bit slicker of a bottom. All it would take is a quick roughing up of the stock paint, and slapping the steelflex on.


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## cali27

Thanks dyeguy.
i placed my order, i got the stuff without teflon and the olive colour. How long do i have to wait between coats?


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## Nussy

cali27 said:


> Thanks dyeguy.
> i placed my order, i got the stuff without teflon and the olive colour. How long do i have to wait between coats?



I'd recommend waiting overnight at least.


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## Brine

cali27 said:


> Thanks dyeguy.
> i placed my order, i got the stuff without teflon and the olive colour. How long do i have to wait between coats?





Nussy said:


> I'd recommend waiting overnight at least.



Jerry at Fasco said the best time to put the second coat on is while the first coat has the same tack as masking tape. On my boat, I believe it was about 2 hrs after I applied the first coat. If you wait overnight, the first coat dries and becomes very slick, so you'll have to scuff all of it up again to get a good bond with the second coat. 

If you question what is right...call FASCO.


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## cali27

someone who runs this site must have a piece in fasco........im joking......anyways thanks guys i will call our boy jerry when i start my mod.


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## Troutman3000

I am working on mine next weekend and want to make sure that I dont waste any at all.

How much did everyone use for each batch? 

What did you mix it in?

What is the best applicator for a nice finish?


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## RStewart

Brine said:


> cali27 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks dyeguy.
> i placed my order, i got the stuff without teflon and the olive colour. How long do i have to wait between coats?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nussy said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'd recommend waiting overnight at least.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Jerry at Fasco said the best time to put the second coat on is while the first coat has the same tack as masking tape. On my boat, I believe it was about 2 hrs after I applied the first coat. If you wait overnight, the first coat dries and becomes very slick, so you'll have to scuff all of it up again to get a good bond with the second coat.
> 
> If you question what is right...call FASCO.
Click to expand...

brine is correct. thats the same thing jerry told me. and it worked.


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## MrShanks2U

I bought an old 14 ft. flat bottom last night for $100. It has a crack in the bottom that the previous owner said leaked very slightly. Not a big deal because i have a friend who can weld aluminum. I do have a few questions however:

1. there is some stuff (looks like a filler of some sort) on all the rivets on the bottom of the boat. Will steelflex stick to things like that if i sand them down? or do i need to remove that stuff?

2. the transom wood needs to be replaced. I'll probably use pan head screws (or something else based on recommendation) to attach the new wood. should i put the wood in first and then apply the steelflex? or steelflex first, then attach the transom wood and use another type of sealer?


----------



## Bugpac

I would remove any foreign material before applying the steel flex... Id want bar alum to steelflex myself..


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## WhiteMoose

I have seen some pictures that people posted of the process they used for applying steelflex, but I can't find them now. Would anyone happen to have those threads handy? Maybe we could add them to this thread?
I seem to remember someone found a certain pattern of pouring/rolling that they thought worked best.


----------



## perchin

WhiteMoose said:


> I have seen some pictures that people posted of the process they used for applying steelflex, but I can't find them now. Would anyone happen to have those threads handy? Maybe we could add them to this thread?
> I seem to remember someone found a certain pattern of pouring/rolling that they thought worked best.



I WOULD LIKE TO SECOND THAT AS I'M WAITING FOR MY STEELFLEX TO COME IN.


----------



## Troutman3000

Buffords Build -

Nussy's Build - 

And I'll share what I got from Nussy and Bugpac from them in pm's

Previous PM in history | Next PM in history | Previous PM | Next PM Print view 



Message subject: Re: everything steelflex 
From: Nussy 
Sent: Yesterday, 22:48 
To: Troutman3000 




Write comments 

Message 
Delete postReport this postReply with quote 
Here's the steelflex rundown. 

Mix the pigment with the hardener. It's the cloudy part. The other part is crystal clear. Get a paint mixer for a drill and mix it REALLY well. If you don't have one they have at Harbor Freight for like $5. It will be the best investment you make!!!! When you think you mixed it enough. Mix for another 2 minutes. 

I picked ups some cheap measuring cups at the $1 store, and just threw them out when I was done. We mixed like 4 cups at a time. From what I've read it pretty important have accurate measurements so that it hardens appropriately. Also make sure to mix really well. 

Try to work with a partner and have him drizzle the steelflex on the boat and then push it around with a 4" foam roller. You will need lots of rollers(I think I went through 10) because pushing around the steelflex wears the rollers quickly. He can mix and drizzle while you roll it on. The bottom is pretty easy but when you get to the sides put it on really thin so it doesn't sag. You can then go back over it with a second coat. 

I did 2 coats. 

***NOTE the Super Slick Steelflex 2000 has teflon and can only be put on in a single coat***

Don't rush, you have time to work with the stuff. You may need to go back over some areas which seams to work OK. Once it starts to harden. Don't try to touch it up. You can end up with a goey mess. I know the last couple sentences sound contradictory but you'll understand once you start working with it. 

Let me know if you have any other questions and good luck. 

Make sure to do it when the temperature is over 70 degrees. Otherwise it doesn't harden fast enough.

_________________
Here's the link to my builds.

Nussy
1992 15' Mirrocraft
viewtopic.php?f=21&t=10751
1980 17; Sea Nymph Traveler
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=11365 


Bug Pac

You should have a can that says neutral on it, I mixed all the pigment in that can, stir with a piant stick, When mixing, id mix about 1 pint at a time, I used some paint cups i got here.. Stir with paint sticks or something similar. I put on 2 coats, the first seemed too transparent..


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## WhiteMoose

Bugpac said:


> You have to use neutral to color it.. They have i believe red/blue/black/white and olive drab..



Just called this morning. They also have a forrest green color. I debated about getting it, but I haven't seen any pictures of the forrest green, so I took the safe route and went with Olive.


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## WhiteMoose

Thanks troutman! That will help a ton.
One sentence hit me in the gut though. Here in Iowa, it will be awhile before we hit 70 degrees :x
Maybe I can warm the stuff up in the oven first.


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## perchin

Thanks for sharing this.... I talked with jerry at fasco yesterday, and ordered the grey color. And I'm also considering dragging the darn boat into my basement to apply the steelflex cuz I live in Michigan....70 degree weather.... :LOL2: yeah like in july!!!!!!! I can't wait that long...just got to do it without the wifey finding out [-X


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## Troutman3000

good luck, it's pretty stinky...


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## MrShanks2U

One more thing...the hull on my boat is textured. It's not smooth like newer jon boats. It has a texture that is dimpled all over like a golf ball. Would I be able to use steelflex on this boat?


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## perchin

Troutman3000 said:


> good luck, it's pretty stinky...



:mrgreen: I'll be putting two fans out of windows down there.


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## Troutman3000

MrShanks2U said:


> One more thing...the hull on my boat is textured. It's not smooth like newer jon boats. It has a texture that is dimpled all over like a golf ball. Would I be able to use steelflex on this boat?




The texture shouldnt pose a problem. It may help the adhesion.


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## MrShanks2U

kind of what I was thinking. Thanks for the reply.


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## Nussy

Troutman3000 said:


> good luck, it's pretty stinky...



Actually Steelflex doesn't smell bad at all. I didn't even where a mask, let alone a respirator or open window, and I did both my boats in a closed garage. 

This stuff is really pretty easy to use......it's just the fear of the unknown for the rookies that haven't used it before.


Main thing are are
1. Measure accurately
2. Mix Thoroughly
3. Work at 70 degrees or above
4. Don't attack too big of an area. 3-4 cups at a time max. Less if working alone
5. Take your time


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## Troutman3000

I stand corrected......Maybe I'll stay in the garage too with the heater running.


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## WhiteMoose

For those that used steelflex on the inside of their boat, are you able to paint it on with a brush when it comes to getting around the ribs :?: Or do you have to use a roller?


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## Nussy

I didn't paint the inside but you could use a brush with it as well. I used foam brushes on the out side as well to get in all the corners and push the Steelflex around. It's not like paint where you'll use a roller tray and fill the roller with paint and apply. The best way I can describe it is like painting with glue or Syrup. The best way I found to apply it is drizzle a line down the boat then push it around with a foam roller or a foam brush. You could probably use a regular brush, but I would be concerned with getting bristles from the brush stuck in the steelflex.


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## perchin

How long did your orders take to arrive from them??? Just curious. They got my check on the 24th. and cashed it, but they have not called or anything to confirm. [-o<


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## Troutman3000

perchin said:


> How long did your orders take to arrive from them??? Just curious. They got my check on the 24th. and cashed it, but they have not called or anything to confirm. [-o<




Its coming from Florida so it should be there soon.


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## perchin

I hope so, they are only calling for this weekend to be nice out. [-o< [-o< [-o<


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## Troutman3000

perchin said:


> I hope so, they are only calling for this weekend to be nice out. [-o< [-o< [-o<




Sunny and 80 degrees Friday here. Going to steel flex like a mad man and hopefully hit the water real quick easter morning.


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## perchin

Troutman3000 said:


> perchin said:
> 
> 
> 
> I hope so, they are only calling for this weekend to be nice out. [-o< [-o< [-o<
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sunny and 80 degrees Friday here. Going to steel flex like a mad man and hopefully hit the water real quick easter morning.
Click to expand...


well we won't get into the 80's, but I have hopes for the 60's. And I have about the same plan


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## Troutman3000

Is it safe to steel flex over 5200? If I had some problem areas should I apply the 5200 first and then apply the steel flex?

j


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## deerslayer

Now that steelflex has been used by so many here and for so long, how well has everyones boat holding up with it? Has anyone noticed any cracking ect. from the flex of an aluminum boat? I have a 1990 "1754" polarkraft that I am thinking about putting the steelflex on but I have heard on other sites that the steelflex can crack with the flex of an aluminum boat?


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## Troutman3000

I saw where one loose rivet caused a depression in one guys steel flex. I am going rebuck the ones I can and then apply 5200 on the inside where appropriate. Then I will steel flex.


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## WhiteMoose

I am so damn anxious for my steelflex to arrive, I can barely sit still. The check just cleared yesterday though, so it looks like I won't have it in time for this 3-day weekend. Maybe that is a good thing, because temperatures aren't going to be quite warm enough anyway. My plan was to borrow every space heater I could find in order to get my garage up to 75. :?


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## WhiteMoose

Heres a question I don't think has been asked yet. Can you apply steelflex over wood? Since I'm going over the inside of my boat with it, I'm trying to figure out what to do at the transom. My transom wood is old, but I sanded on it and it is still solid so I'm not going to touch it other than some sanding and Thompsons.


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## perchin

WhiteMoose said:


> Heres a question I don't think has been asked yet. Can you apply steelflex over wood? Since I'm going over the inside of my boat with it, I'm trying to figure out what to do at the transom. My transom wood is old, but I sanded on it and it is still solid so I'm not going to touch it other than some sanding and Thompsons.



YES


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## wyodeputy

deerslayer said:


> Now that steelflex has been used by so many here and for so long, how well has everyones boat holding up with it? Has anyone noticed any cracking ect. from the flex of an aluminum boat? I have a 1990 "1754" polarkraft that I am thinking about putting the steelflex on but I have heard on other sites that the steelflex can crack with the flex of an aluminum boat?



I applied the Steelflex with teflon (I think they call it super slick) on my duck boat with mud motor and later found several areas had cracked and flaked off on the bottom. I also applied it to the sides, but no flaking there. I assume the bottom cracked due to running over some obstacles ... not logs or rocks but shallows ... grass, mud flats etc. The fact that it stayed put on the sides, tells me the cracking was not due to flex of the hull.

I was pretty upset with this result as they advertise the use of this stuff on airboat hulls and figured I wouldn't be nearly as rough on mine as an airboat operator would. I would also mention that simply "roughing up" the exterior prepatory to application was a little understated. Again for my puroposes, I believe really scratching up the hull would have made it adhere much better ... maybe with a VERY heavy grit sand paper or even better, a braided wire brush (disk) on an angle grinder. 

I'm curious to hear everyone else's results after some heavy use.


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## ober51

Thus far mine had held up really well. I do notice some scratching from beaching the boat, but it's not too much and I can touch up the spots every year if need be. I haven't seen any cracks, so I hope I am not jinxing myself. SF has completely sealed my boat, and I haven't had a problem yet after a season. I will keep an eye on it, but I expect it to continue to be fine moving forward.


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## FishinJoe

I am about to order this stuff really soon and after reading this post I am a bit worried. I tend to beach my boat quite a bit and dont want to spend all this money on paint if it is just going to flake off. Can somemore people that have done this please chime in? Thanks

Joe


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## WhiteMoose

I've had my steelflex on for exactly 2 weeks, but I've trailered and beached it on gravel twice and have seen no flaking  The only thing I've noticed was that the gloss look of the steelflex is now more dull in those areas.


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## Troutman3000

WhiteMoose said:


> I've had my steelflex on for exactly 2 weeks, but I've trailered and beached it on gravel twice and have seen no flaking  The only thing I've noticed was that the gloss look of the steelflex is now more dull in those areas.



Ihave strached mine in a few areas from rough use, but I will just touch that up at some point. No flaking or anything....


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## WhiteMoose

scratched down to the aluminum?


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## Troutman3000

WhiteMoose said:


> scratched down to the aluminum?




nope just the first layer of steel flex. This stuf isnt indestructable just provides a water tight coating.


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## ober51

FishinJoe said:


> I am about to order this stuff really soon and after reading this post I am a bit worried. I tend to beach my boat quite a bit and dont want to spend all this money on paint if it is just going to flake off. Can somemore people that have done this please chime in? Thanks
> 
> Joe



It's only natural that this is going to scratch a bit when you beach it. It still will protect big time against the bottom of your boat. If you beach all the time without it, I would imagine you're still going to have some issues. I'd rather have the protective barrier myself. The big thing to remember is that it's not paint, it's a 2 part epoxy. It's hard to explain until you see the results. The stuff is for real.


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## FishinJoe

I was worried that then it gets scratched down to the aluminum that it would let water between the metal and paint. Is this not a issue if you prep it right then?

Joe


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## Troutman3000

FishinJoe said:


> I was worried that then it gets scratched down to the aluminum that it would let water between the metal and paint. Is this not a issue if you prep it right then?
> 
> Joe




It wont effect any other area if it gets scratched. It is adhered to the metal at every point it makes onctact, which creates a water tight seal. 

Do wire wheel it for the best results, thats what worked well with mine.


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## perchin

Some things to consider when getting ready for application---------------->#1. DON'T DO IT BY YOURSELF!!! This crap sets up fast and is a nightmare to roll on. #2. Mix it thouroughly, when you think its mixed, mix it for about another 2 full minutes. #3. Don't expect it to turn out glass smooth....it won't.


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## Troutman3000

perchin said:


> Some things to consider when getting ready for application---------------->#1. DON'T DO IT BY YOURSELF!!! This crap sets up fast and is a nightmare to roll on. #2. Mix it thouroughly, when you think its mixed, mix it for about another 2 full minutes. #3. Don't expect it to turn out glass smooth....it won't.



Its only as good as the prep work you put into it. You can do it by yourself just do smaller sections at a time. Also do multiple thin coats for the best results.


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## perchin

Troutman3000 said:


> perchin said:
> 
> 
> 
> Some things to consider when getting ready for application---------------->#1. DON'T DO IT BY YOURSELF!!! This crap sets up fast and is a nightmare to roll on. #2. Mix it thouroughly, when you think its mixed, mix it for about another 2 full minutes. #3. Don't expect it to turn out glass smooth....it won't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its only as good as the prep work you put into it. You can do it by yourself just do smaller sections at a time. Also do multiple thin coats for the best results.
Click to expand...


Which was 3 months of researching it, 6 hours of preheating my shop, 12 4" high density foam rollers, 8 naturaul bristle brushes, took down to bare aluminum, acetone bath, good tape job,many small batches were mixed, and was done in small sections, see my thread....... I did mine by myself and would not advise it as being an easy process, rather easy with two people, one mixing, one applying. Did I miss the memo on the secret prepping instructions?


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## Troutman3000

perchin said:


> Troutman3000 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> perchin said:
> 
> 
> 
> Some things to consider when getting ready for application---------------->#1. DON'T DO IT BY YOURSELF!!! This crap sets up fast and is a nightmare to roll on. #2. Mix it thouroughly, when you think its mixed, mix it for about another 2 full minutes. #3. Don't expect it to turn out glass smooth....it won't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its only as good as the prep work you put into it. You can do it by yourself just do smaller sections at a time. Also do multiple thin coats for the best results.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Which was 3 months of researching it, 6 hours of preheating my shop, 12 4" high density foam rollers, 8 naturaul bristle brushes, took down to bare aluminum, acetone bath, good tape job,many small batches were mixed, and was done in small sections, see my thread....... I did mine by myself and would not advise it as being an easy process, rather easy with two people, one mixing, one applying. Did I miss the memo on the secret prepping instructions?
Click to expand...


Wasn't aiming that post at you. Dont get so defensive. I was just stating my expirience which was that it was not that difficult. I wire wheeled it, didnt use acetone, then mixed in small amounts (probaly 2-3 cups total) then rolled it on. Did the whole boat one time and then started again giving about 2 hours between applications and it worked well. No visible sags or runs on the horizontal or vertical surfaces. Just got a little debris micxed in but I kinda like the textured look.

Maybe you had it to hot in there so it ran a little more or maybe you tried to apply it too thich and thats what produced your runs. It was close ro 70 degrees in the shade when I did.

I didnt really need any help and it worked out pretty good.


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## perchin

lol.... I wasn't being defensive, I was actually joking around............... man its sensitive around here lately. And I also used a Angle Grinder with the most aggressive cup wire brush I could find......Acetone was to merely clean the surface after blowing off all the aluminum dust with the air compressor.


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## Troutman3000

Sorry man. No harm no foul.


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## TC1OZ

The people @ steelflex love this site. hahaha.

The lady on the phone was saying they get at least 4 or 5 new orders from people hearing about it "chatting on the net" as she put it.

Also, she made me say "eh?" for her a couple of times, she was having a hoot! :LOL2: 

She talked me down (believe it or not) to order 2 quarts of the steelflex for going around the outside of my 12 foot Springbok Aluminum... do you guys think that's enough to do the entire outside?


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## WhiteMoose

I think that would be enough. Since your boat doesn't have a flat bottom, you have much less surface area to cover.


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## TC1OZ

WhiteMoose said:


> I think that would be enough. Since your boat doesn't have a flat bottom, you have much less surface area to cover.



Well if you look at my post that shows the boat, you can see why I want to do the entire outside. I'm going to do some actual measuring when I get home from work today before I send the check off. Just need to stop by somewhere and get a drain plug before I can take it anywhere hahaha.


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## Troutman3000

TC1OZ said:


> WhiteMoose said:
> 
> 
> 
> I think that would be enough. Since your boat doesn't have a flat bottom, you have much less surface area to cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well if you look at my post that shows the boat, you can see why I want to do the entire outside. I'm going to do some actual measuring when I get home from work today before I send the check off. Just need to stop by somewhere and get a drain plug before I can take it anywhere hahaha.
Click to expand...



I would get a gallon incase you waste some or need some touch up. Its worth the extra 25 bux trust me.


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## ober51

TC1OZ said:


> The people @ steelflex love this site. hahaha.
> 
> The lady on the phone was saying they get at least 4 or 5 new orders from people hearing about it "chatting on the net" as she put it.
> 
> Also, she made me say "eh?" for her a couple of times, she was having a hoot! :LOL2:
> 
> She talked me down (believe it or not) to order 2 quarts of the steelflex for going around the outside of my 12 foot Springbok Aluminum... do you guys think that's enough to do the entire outside?



Which proves that there should be some partnership, like I said. We are giving that place serious business.


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## SmallieJonze

I just gave them some more business...
I spoke w/ Jerry who was happy to give me clear cut directions on how to apply the stuff to the boat.
He even said I could call with any questions.
I didn't believe C.O.D. still existed :LOL2: 
Nice people!


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## TTSam

Just ordered mine and sent the check $52.75 for 2 quarts and 4oz pigment.


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## TC1OZ

I will be sending my check first thing next week. I wont be able to apply it for a while... Weather isn't that nice up here!


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## cali27

TC1OZ said:


> I will be sending my check first thing next week. I wont be able to apply it for a while... Weather isn't that nice up here!



Just a heads up, but I had to pay the UPS guy like 35 bucks when he dropped it off. They ding us north of the border guys when importing something like that.


----------



## TC1OZ

cali27 said:


> TC1OZ said:
> 
> 
> 
> I will be sending my check first thing next week. I wont be able to apply it for a while... Weather isn't that nice up here!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a heads up, but I had to pay the UPS guy like 35 bucks when he dropped it off. They ding us north of the border guys when importing something like that.
Click to expand...


Did you get it express? She said she was going to ship mine ground which is USPS. I don't think they charge the ridiculous brokerage fees.


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## BottomDweller

I placed an order for steelflex also. It should be here soon. I spoke to Jerry and he told me to sand my boat alittle since it already has a strong coat of paint. Do I need to have a belt sander to do this or is a manual hand held sanding block enough?


----------



## perchin

BottomDweller said:


> I placed an order for steelflex also. It should be here soon. I spoke to Jerry and he told me to sand my boat alittle since it already has a strong coat of paint. Do I need to have a belt sander to do this or is a manual hand held sanding block enough?



Manual.........60 or 80 grit and you'll be good. 8)


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## sixgun

I'll be placing my order in the next week too.Any one want to chime in with some color suggestions,how gray is the gray i am looking for a battleship gray on bottom and sides up to the spray rails and red to the gunwale. I'm pretty stuck on the red(already got the paint),what else do yall think will look good?


----------



## perchin

sixgun said:


> I'll be placing my order in the next week too.Any one want to chime in with some color suggestions,how gray is the gray i am looking for a battleship gray on bottom and sides up to the spray rails and red to the gunwale. I'm pretty stuck on the red(already got the paint),what else do yall think will look good?



Depends on how much dye you put in to the mix, for the final color.


----------



## ober51

Check my mod, the gray looks good IMO.


----------



## blazinmoto

I steelflexed my jon over the weekend and was impressed with the result. One key is to apply THIN layers. Great product.


----------



## TTSam

I also did mine this weekend. I am impressed with the stuff. I only ordered 2 quarts and after receiveing I said noway is this enough to do what I want. I put two coats on and still have a plenty left over. I found a couple spots that look thin and will add some more but it doesn't take much. My only problem is I dont have a garage to do this in and had to use my carport. I was able to apply the steelflex but had a lot of bugs get stuck in the stuff. Also one of my foam rollers started to fall apart so I have a bunch of bumps but it still looks great! Oh yea, make sure you wear gloves!


----------



## DarkstarCrashes

Got my gallon of steelflex today.

Has anyone filled dents and applied steelflex over it? I would think it would work well since steelflex is an epoxy. I have the hull ground down to bare aluminum but a few spots really need attention.


----------



## Troutman3000

DarkstarCrashes said:


> Got my gallon of steelflex today.
> 
> Has anyone filled dents and applied steelflex over it? I would think it would work well since steelflex is an epoxy. I have the hull ground down to bare aluminum but a few spots really need attention.




Steelflex will stick to anything, i dont care what anybody says. Its some of the tackiest stuff I have ever dealt with.


----------



## Brine

DarkstarCrashes said:


> Got my gallon of steelflex today.
> 
> Has anyone filled dents and applied steelflex over it? I would think it would work well since steelflex is an epoxy. I have the hull ground down to bare aluminum but a few spots really need attention.



I agree with Troutman, seems like it would stick to anything. Especially if you're overlapping the area. Just don't try to fill a dent with it. The more you apply, the quicker it cures. I put some on heavy on the bottom of mine where there were some dents, and before I could level it out, it was as thick as cold tar.


----------



## DarkstarCrashes

Cool, thanks guys. That's what I figured. I'm in the process of filling with epoxy putty and then I'll steelflex it. I can't wait to be done with these leaky rivets and seams!


----------



## BottomDweller

Not sure if anyone has used a wire brush to prep a boat before steelflex but I decided to give it a shot since I had limited time to rough up the paint with straight sandpaper. Spent about 30 minutes with a wire brush that fits on a cordless drill. I think it did a pretty good job. It scratched it up pretty good. Just planning on going over what I did with some 60 grit sandpaper, acetone, and then I think I am good to go. I hope there wasn't any issues with me using that wire brush...


----------



## devilmutt

BottomDweller said:


> Not sure if anyone has used a wire brush to prep a boat before steelflex but I decided to give it a shot since I had limited time to rough up the paint with straight sandpaper. Spent about 30 minutes with a wire brush that fits on a cordless drill. I think it did a pretty good job. It scratched it up pretty good. Just planning on going over what I did with some 60 grit sandpaper, acetone, and then I think I am good to go. I hope there wasn't any issues with me using that wire brush...


That would be the same process I just used. I spoke with Jerry at Fasco when I ordered the Steelflex, he said this would be fine.

After reading your post again I see you roughed up the paint with the wire brush, the bottom of my boat was not painted. I did take a cup brush to the bottom, and then roughed it up a bit more by hand before applying the Steelflex.


----------



## BottomDweller

Just wanted to make sure I had the right idea on application before I started. Can someone confirm I am going down the right road?

Prep:
1. I have a good paint base so I am just going to rough it up a little with a wire brush and 60 grit sandpaper.
2. Then an acetone wipe

Application:
1. Add all of color to # 2 component (quart) and mix well. I have gray.
2. Mix 1 cup of component 1 to 1 cup of component 2 (containing color) in another conatiner. I am getting a drill mixer to blend.
3. Drizzle the 2 cups of mixed steelflex over hull and push around with foam roller until there is a thin coat.
4. Mix up another 2 cups and so on.
5. Wait 2 hours until coat is sticky and then start on second coat.

Budget for 8 hours and it would be good to have 2 people..right?
Temperature should be over 75 degrees and I should do this in a covered area with good ventilation..?


----------



## Troutman3000

That just about sums it up, but its hard to mix just two cups with the drill mixer. Maybe make something like Perchin did for that amount of liquid. And when you mix the color in mix until you think its mixed and then five minutes more.


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## Troutman3000

I actually poured the mix into a paint tray and used the roller to roll on the steel flex, this kept it from being lumpy in some places.


----------



## VBTravisD

Took my boat out this past weekend... took on some water after painting it with some rustoleum from HD. So needless to say I will be ordering some steelflex soon. Has anyone applied SF over 5200?


----------



## BottomDweller

I put some 5200 on some pieces of my transom (where bolts attached the wood). I plan on steelflexing over this.


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## TTSam

I applied mine by myself and it was very easy. I mixed one cup at a time using some mixing containers from HD. Mixed 4 oz of each with a drill and drizzled and rolled with a 4inch foam roller. Stuff goes very far I ended up applying 3 coats and still have 2oz of each left out of starting with 2 quarts.


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## TC1OZ

Wooo hoooo!!

I was a little late sending my check [-X but it finally got here!


For all you Canadians out there! Make sure you get TWICE as much as you want to order because the 38$ duties are a kick in the pants!  

Really glad I went with the full gallon! Lets hope I'm as happy with the product as everyone else! [-o< 

Plan on mixing in small cups and using a foam roller like everyone suggests!


----------



## Sader762

Got a question.

When applying tape to the boat and then rolling on Steel Flex can I leave the tape on the boat and pull it off after 2 coats or should I remove the tape between each coat? When pulling the tape off does it come off easily like paint does or is it a pain to remove the tape?

Thanks!


----------



## devilmutt

I taped off mine with Frog Tape that I purchased at Walmart, I left it on for both coats and removed it 24 hours later. The taped came off without a problem and left a good clean edge.


----------



## Sader762

Thanks Devilmutt, that's what I wanted to hear. I'm using the automotive green tape that should do the trick.


----------



## Sader762

Woohoo - first coat is on. This stuff is actually pretty easy to work with by yourself. I mixed 6-8 oz. of each part at a time and drizzled it out in the sections I wanted to work on. then I used a roller to spread it out really good. 

I put it on really thick on the bottom and tried to go thin on the sides but it still sagged on the sides. If you want a really clean look on the sides I'd suggest you do the bottom first then tilt each side and do the sides separately. The bottom where the boat is flat looks really good and smooth. If you want to do it all at one time put it on the vertical surfaces really thin and do like 4 coats building the layers up slightly more each time.

[strike]2 hours and back to it![/strike]

Done!!!

Whew, that's a late night.

Second coat was harder to get on and get smoothed out. I had to really push it around with the roller. I only went thru 2 rollers and 2 mixing pots so I guess that was good.

Post Steel Flex comments:

If I do it again I'll put it on really thick on the layer that is horizontal and not worry about 2 layers. Then I'd rotate the boat and do each side independent to get it on thick and smooth. When this stuff settles out all the brush/roller marks smooth out. I'd also do the entire outside of the boat in Steel Flex next time instead of trying to re-tape and paint the boat a different color. Another member did his in olive inside and out and I think that is the way to go.

I took some pics that I'll have to post in my mod thread.


----------



## MadCatX

Hey Guys, 

I got a 1232, looks like for just the bottom maybe 2/3 inches up the side I am looking at 3 qts.


The bottom of this boat has been mistreated so i am taking it down to the bar aluminum in most places...I saw a couple of posts ask about sealing little leaks (Like leaking rivets).

How does it do as an overall sealer?


----------



## Brine

MadCatX said:


> Hey Guys,
> 
> I got a 1232, looks like for just the bottom maybe 2/3 inches up the side I am looking at 3 qts.
> 
> 
> The bottom of this boat has been mistreated so i am taking it down to the bar aluminum in most places...I saw a couple of posts ask about sealing little leaks (Like leaking rivets).
> 
> How does it do as an overall sealer?



Fix the leaky rivet first.


----------



## Troutman3000

Brine said:


> MadCatX said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Guys,
> 
> I got a 1232, looks like for just the bottom maybe 2/3 inches up the side I am looking at 3 qts.
> 
> 
> The bottom of this boat has been mistreated so i am taking it down to the bar aluminum in most places...I saw a couple of posts ask about sealing little leaks (Like leaking rivets).
> 
> How does it do as an overall sealer?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fix the leaky rivet first.
Click to expand...



This - my rivets busted through the steel flex after some pretty rough waves. Rebuck the rivets then apply the steelflex for the ultimate seal.


----------



## MadCatX

Thank you gentlemen


----------



## island fever

Everyone keeps talking about painting over the steelflex but has anyone thought about painting first then using the steelflex clear as a top coat like a cars clear coat?

I would like to do that and put truck bed liner on the inside eventualy. Any thoughts?


----------



## MadCatX

That's a pretty good point.


----------



## Troutman3000

island fever said:


> Everyone keeps talking about painting over the steelflex but has anyone thought about painting first then using the steelflex clear as a top coat like a cars clear coat?
> 
> I would like to do that and put truck bed liner on the inside eventualy. Any thoughts?




No - it would probably stick better to the aluminum in my opinion.


----------



## juggernoob

Is 1 gal enough to do 2 coats on a 14' Vhull?


----------



## MadCatX

I think on page 4 or 5 they talk about it - I think 1 gal may be enough but it depends on how far up the side you go


----------



## Troutman3000

juggernoob said:


> Is 1 gal enough to do 2 coats on a 14' Vhull?




Yes - more than enough. I used less than a gallon and did my entire boat 2 times plus a lot of touch up.


----------



## juggernoob

Troutman3000 said:


> juggernoob said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is 1 gal enough to do 2 coats on a 14' Vhull?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes - more than enough. I used less than a gallon and did my entire boat 2 times plus a lot of touch up.
Click to expand...


Perfect, thanks! Now the color, hmmmm.


----------



## Howard

Has anyone used steelflex over 5200? Has anyone had steelflex passs the "test of time" Let's say 3 years?


----------



## geozigla

can anybody post pictures of the steelflex on their boat


----------



## Howard

steelflex arrived today =D>


----------



## Flatsdaddy

I am about to paint my riveted alumacraft 1648. It is a 1972 model but has no leaks at all. The bottom paint is actually pretty good.

Should I bother with steelflex or even painting the bottom? I'm thinking about taking the guides off my trailer and just painting it on the trailer. I could paint as much of the bottom as you would ever see.

Also, is it OK to paint the bottom with regular paint? I'm going to use regular duck boat paint. My local HW store has Jack Tar Ducking skiff olive.

Any thoughts?


----------



## juggernoob

Question about temperature, tomorrow will be in the 80s and 77 on Sat with night time temps around 55+. Am I good to put on the Steelflex mid morning when the temps rise above 70, or are the night time temps too cold for drying?


----------



## Steve_In

juggernoob, I just did Steelflex under similar conditions. All set-up in about 12 hours no problem. It "dries" by chemical reaction and it generates it's own heat.


----------



## allen m

Hey guy,s i see everyone sanding there boats before paint and putting on steelflex. I do sandblasting. Here in east tx, I blast a lot of boats for guys. Find a guys that does blasting and it will save you alot of work.As long as you use a med- fine grit, the finish comes out nice. If you have any ?, just let me know.


----------



## Henry Hefner

I got tired of re-bucking weeping rivets on the Minnow Bucket, so I just replaced the leakers and did the entire outside of the hull in Steelflex. I don't really have anything new to offer about application, cause I just followed the advice of everyone else on this thread. I did have some runs (sagging?) on vertical surfaces where I put it on too thick. You can't put it on and then tell yourself that you will spread it out if it starts to sag, because it can start to sag after it is starting to set up! One thing about color, I ordered the olive drab. Now most paints that come in rattle cans today that are labeled olive drab are a lighter green, near the color of the new john boats you see at the store. NO, Steelflex olive drab is OLD SCHOOL olive drab, what most people today call army green, much darker than new john boats. Had I known this ahead of time, I would have only used about half of the pigment they sent, but I found out too late. I'm not saying it looks bad, it doesn't, only that I would have preferred it to be a little lighter.


----------



## damifinowfish

So I 'm getting back to my boat project. I have to do this job by myself so I know I need to mix up small amounts. My question is Are the 2 different parts too thick to use a turkey basters as a measuring cup? 

Damifinow Fish


----------



## Henry Hefner

damifinowfish said:


> So I 'm getting back to my boat project. I have to do this job by myself so I know I need to mix up small amounts. My question is Are the 2 different parts too thick to use a turkey basters as a measuring cup?
> 
> Damifinow Fish



Dang, that's not a yes or no answer. 
Will it go into and out of a turkey baster? YES 
Will it work WELL? I don't think so. MAYBE.... If you used two turkey basters, and kept them separate so that the two products never mixed. It would be hard to clean up between jobs, but if you just stood them in cups or something and you weren't worried about cleaning up between coats, it might do pretty well. I did mine by myself. I bought marked quart containers at walmart for 85 cents each, and poured from the cans into the cup. I made 24 ounces at a time, and still had enough room in the cup to stir with the Harbor Freight paint mixer that goes on your drill. I even re-used one cup, it had set up into the cup and it came out in several pieces when I warped the cup.
I punched holes in the trough of the cans, so after I poured from them I could get the slop-over back into the can.


----------



## damifinowfish

yes
I was planing to using 2 turkey basters and do it the way you said. I want to use 16oz at a time to see how it goes.

How long should I plan to just do the bottom of a 13 foot boat?

Thanks
damifinow fish


----------



## Henry Hefner

damifinowfish said:


> How long should I plan to just do the bottom of a 13 foot boat?



It depends on how many coats you put on. Once you mix it, you don't have a lot of time before it starts to set up, I am guessing you are taking about doing just the bottom of a FLAT bottom boat, meaning that you won't be painting any vertical surfaces. This stuff sets up faster the larger the batch that is together, so to have the longest time to play with it, immediately after mixing it, drizzle it out over the boat, then you can take more time spreading it out with the roller. The cheap small foam rollers (I think 4") worked great for me. You should be able to mix and spread a coat in less than 30 minutes. Others have said that Fasco advises succeeding coats be applied when the product has set up some, but is still tacky. That time will differ depending on temperature, for me it was about 3 hours between coats.


----------



## Brine

The turkey basters sound like more trouble than they're worth. 

I used a metal soup ladle and just wiped it out with a paper towel after each use. I think if I did it again, I'd use dixie cups and toss them after each use.


----------



## moberg12

Three quick application questions!!

1. Do I mix the pigment in with the clear part and then mix with the neutral? 

2. Should I mix the entire pigment container into the clear part or do I mix it as I go?

3. It's starting to get cold here in the mountains, at what point is it too cold to apply??

I'd call Fasco but I'm hoping to get this applied tomorrow.


----------



## Henry Hefner

moberg12 said:


> Three quick application questions!!
> 
> 1. Do I mix the pigment in with the clear part and then mix with the neutral?
> 
> 2. Should I mix the entire pigment container into the clear part or do I mix it as I go?
> 
> 3. It's starting to get cold here in the mountains, at what point is it too cold to apply??
> 
> I'd call Fasco but I'm hoping to get this applied tomorrow.



If I recall correctly, the instructions that came with it said not to apply below 60ºF, and the pigment is mixed with the neutral, not the clear. I mixed the pigment all at once, if you try to measure it out, chances are you won't get the mixture exact and different batches will be different shades.


----------



## damifinowfish

The turkey baster did not work. This stuff was really thick today but the temp was around 55 degrees. Made a nice mess but the bottom is painted. Used 3/4 of a gallon on the bottom should have enough to do one side in the spring.

Thanks for all your help

Damifinow Fish


----------



## tripleup05

As I read through this thread, I noticed that nobody really talked about putting the stuff inside their boat. I was thinking about doing just that, but it doesn't seem very popular. How come? Is paint a better, cheaper alternative?


----------



## Henry Hefner

tripleup05 said:


> As I read through this thread, I noticed that nobody really talked about putting the stuff inside their boat. I was thinking about doing just that, but it doesn't seem very popular. How come? Is paint a better, cheaper alternative?



In my case, the answer is yes. The only reason I used it was to seal weeping rivets, however, all my mods are already in place. If I were starting from scratch on another boat, I would consider using it inside and out because it is so durable.


----------



## Troutman3000

The only downfall to using steelflex on a boat in rough waters is that if the hull flexes it will crack the steelflex. I think Gluv it is more appropriate for the inside as it weeps into the seams and rivets fromt he inside but is flexible so it wont crack like steel flex will.


----------



## tripleup05

Thanks for the info Troutman and Henry. I definately plan to steelflex the outside of the hull after going over the reivets and seams to make sure there aren't any issues. Just about every bit of the interior will be covered by either flooring, decking, or some sort of storage compartments. In my situation, would I benefit from steelflexxing the inside? I'm thinking not, but would love some other input.


----------



## Henry Hefner

tripleup05 said:


> Thanks for the info Troutman and Henry. I definately plan to steelflex the outside of the hull after going over the reivets and seams to make sure there aren't any issues. Just about every bit of the interior will be covered by either flooring, decking, or some sort of storage compartments. In my situation, would I benefit from steelflexxing the inside? I'm thinking not, but would love some other input.



The only advantage I can see is double insurance by having both sides of your rivets covered. Shouldn't be needed, but if I had some leftover anyway, and conditions were convenient (time available, weather permitting, easy access to the inside) I might do it for grins. The only disadvantages I can see are effort spent and a few pounds added to the hull.


----------



## tripleup05

Henry Hefner said:


> tripleup05 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info Troutman and Henry. I definately plan to steelflex the outside of the hull after going over the reivets and seams to make sure there aren't any issues. Just about every bit of the interior will be covered by either flooring, decking, or some sort of storage compartments. In my situation, would I benefit from steelflexxing the inside? I'm thinking not, but would love some other input.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only advantage I can see is double insurance by having both sides of your rivets covered. Shouldn't be needed, but if I had some leftover anyway, and conditions were convenient (time available, weather permitting, easy access to the inside) I might do it for grins. The only disadvantages I can see are effort spent and a few pounds added to the hull.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the info! If I have enough, I will give it a go. 

So are there any tricks to applying it around the ribs, top rail, etc?


----------



## Henry Hefner

tripleup05 said:


> So are there any tricks to applying it around the ribs, top rail, etc?



It's like spreading honey. For the tight spots, I used cheap paintbrushes. You want stiff, short bristles. I kept tweezers handy for the occasional hair that comes out of the brush and sticks in the steelflex. Apply it too thick, and it WILL run, after it is too set up for you too fix, so remember to use thin coats on any surface that is not horizontal.


----------



## Troutman3000

Use the 4inch foam rollers - it applies much better and no streaks.


----------



## SaltyBuckster

Can one of you Steel Flex proffesionals take a look at mt project pics on the last page and see if I need to do anything else to be ready for my Steel Flex when it gets here this coming week?Thanks in advance.
azslabber


----------



## SaltyBuckster

I really want to do this right the first time.I went over the bare aluminum today with 80 grit and got it all.Just would like to know if anyone knows the best grit sandpaper to use the for best results.Thanks.


----------



## Brine

azslabber said:


> I really want to do this right the first time.I went over the bare aluminum today with 80 grit and got it all.Just would like to know if anyone knows the best grit sandpaper to use the for best results.Thanks.



The 80 grit will work just fine. The steelflex will have no problems grabbing hold. Once you've exposed bare aluminum, it will start to oxidize, so make sure to apply the steelflex sooner rather than later. Ideally, I would apply the steelflex immediately after sanding/wiping down.


----------



## SaltyBuckster

Thanks ! I'll sand it again really quick when it gets here.Once the paint is off it sands pretty easy,lol.


----------



## FishyItch

Boy, you guys are crazy about your steelflex around here, but it seems like this whole thread is just application. What about the _purpose_? By reading it seems like it's just a super-sealant. Are there any other advantages besides sealing up those leaky rivets 'til doomsday?

I have a 1448 v-hull, and yeah there are a few leaky rivets, but this steelflex thing seems like a lot of work. What about just some JB weld or silicone touch-ups on the inside? Of course, I guess if you deck the boat permanently how do you do touch-ups on the inside?

When I deck my boat in the spring I'm going to try to make the flat floor pieces removable partly for maintenance and partly to keep track of leaky rivets. I think what I'm going to do in the spring is deck and paint the boat like I had planned and just seal up the few leaky rivets from the inside. If the need becomes apparent maybe I'll apply the steelflex a season from now. (Of course, then I'd probably have to pull off the transom again. Hmm.)

Thoughts? Are having even a few small leaks a problem after you deck a boat? Even if I make the floor pieces removable and seal up all of the wood? Is this steelflex stuff completely necessary? I only had the boat out twice last year and that was the first season in about 6, so I feel like I want to wait a season before I deal with this stuff. Or if I'm doing the mod this spring should I just go for it now?


----------



## SaltyBuckster

They put the Steel Flex on the bottoms of Air Boats,makes them really slick.That and the sealing qualities sold me.I don't have any leaky rivits on my tin,but then again it is pretty new to me.Don't want any after I finally get to do some fishing.I did a lot of reading before I finally gave in.


----------



## FishyItch

Yeah, right now I'm pretty skeptical as to the need. I'm also going to be on a budget once I start my mod.


----------



## Brine

I fish 99% electric only and don't get to power load the boat. Having the steelflex on the bottom should also help with loading and unloading. 

I don't want my boat leaking a drop. Just me. 

Also, and once again...... Steelflex shouldn't be used to stop leaks that already exist in my opinion. The leak should be fixed by other means first. I like the idea of it being a preventative measure though and providing a slick bottom.


----------



## FishyItch

So it's a slick bottom. Does it reduce any drag? Any noticeable speed increase?


----------



## Brine

FishyItch said:


> So it's a slick bottom. Does it reduce any drag? Any noticeable speed increase?



Yes, slick is an understatement. I'm sure it reduces some drag; however, as far as a speed increase.... I would think it would be minimal for most rigs, especially for me whose top speed is going to be around 4.5 - 5 mph. The ones that notice are probably the airboat guys as they run across vegetation.


----------



## thad.

I'm still on the fence about it, myself.


----------



## Nussy

I've done 2 boats now with it. It's pretty nice stuff and really not that expensive. About $65/gallon, but you don't need primer, etc. I've used the super slick and the regular stuff. I actually like the regular stuff better. I used it because I wanted to make sure my boats were water tight and ensure no future problems. It doesn't look as good as paint but the purpose is to seal the boat up better. I also think it gives a little better protection to the hull.


----------



## tripleup05

Whew! What a nasty, sticky, terrible ordeal applying that stuff was. I didn't expect it to be easy, but dang!

I have a few more runs on the vertical sufaces than I can live with. Can I simply sand the runs down even with the surrounding area and apply another thin coat to blend it?


----------



## levron41

I received a "Free" 14ft Meyer from a buddy that was supposed to have no leaks. I think every rivet on the bottom of the boat leaks. I have been re-bucking the rivets, covering them with a small amount of JB weld on outside and planning on putting some 3m 5200 on the inside. My plan is to sand the JB down a little and apply steelflex. I sent the check in today for a gallon!!!

Here is my delima. I talked to Jerry at Fasco about applying steelflex when the temperature was below 70. He basically said, "it never gets that cold here so I dont know if it will work." Its pretty cold here in Indiana. The temp is around 40 on good days. We are going to have some 60 degree days here soon. I want to apply the steelflex.

Should I? Does it just take longer to cure and set up really fast in cold weather? Should I just apply a little at a time? Or should I just wait? This is my last step before my mod begins so I'm very impatient at this point.

Thanks ahead of time for any suggestions!!


----------



## Brine

You need a garage with a heater if you want to do it that soon. If I had my way, I'd want it 75+ degrees if I ever do it again.


----------



## Henry Hefner

Brine said:


> You need a garage with a heater if you want to do it that soon. If I had my way, I'd want it 75+ degrees if I ever do it again.



+1


----------



## Troutman3000

The stuff is like sludge if you do not get it up to at least 70 degrees. It becomes almost impossible to work with and the curing process will take forever.


----------



## devilmutt

Wait for 70*


----------



## fireshadow

just got the phone with fasco and I have to say that they have some of the best customer service i have dealt with in a long time. Totaly makes up for not being able to pay buy credit card.


----------



## sixshootertexan

Ok it seems that everyone mixes small amounts at a time while applying steelflex. I got 5oz dixie cups to measure from. 5oz from each container for a total of 10oz. 2 questions.

1. Does this stuff set up that fast or is it that hard to mix? (viscosity) 
2.What's the most recommended amount to mix? I'm a one man operation around here.

PS I'm getting all the tools that are recommended in all post I've read.


----------



## Henry Hefner

sixshootertexan said:


> Ok it seems that everyone mixes small amounts at a time while applying steelflex. I got 5oz dixie cups to measure from. 5oz from each container for a total of 10oz. 2 questions.
> 
> 1. Does this stuff set up that fast or is it that hard to mix? (viscosity)
> 2.What's the most recommended amount to mix? I'm a one man operation around here.
> 
> PS I'm getting all the tools that are recommended in all post I've read.



It is like trying to stir honey. I wouldn't want to try it by hand. I used the Harbor Freight stirrer that goes in your drill. It worked well.

10 to 14 oz. is all I mixed at a time. (I worked by myself) I may have been able to use more before it set up, but I was comfortable with this amount.


----------



## fireshadow

I just did mine by myself. Mixed 8oz at a time. Worked out good. It was a total mess to pour out of the cans into the mixing cups. Spread really well with the bondo spreaders and had a lot more working time than expected. I don't want to do it again for a while though. Definitely watch if you use foam rollers, took a bit to pick all the foam out from the first one. And acetone will clean work for cleaning up if you get to it before it drys on your tools and hands. Overall not as hard as I expected doing it alone.


----------



## levron41

I turned the heaters on in the garage this weekend and finally applied the steelflex to my boat!!! From what I've read on here everyone mixes the pigment with the hardner and not the liquid. Wellllllll, I did the opposite and mixed it with the entire can of liquid. Everything seemed to be fine. It all gets mixed together anyways right?????? I applied it way to thick but in retrospect it only needed one coat when i was done with it :mrgreen: The only bad thing about it is now it will probably take a week to cure. 

All in all steelflex was not to bad to work with. My dad mixed and I pushed it around. Definitely recommed a partner!!


----------



## tfizzle172

Guys,

I have seen scattered posts about wether or not you can use SteelFlex over top of 3M 5200, but no real info from replies. We have a small crack we need to fix and want to seal up some seeping rivets. Will the Steelflex adhere to the 5200?

Also, I have seen scattered posts on concerns about steelflex chipping....anyone have actual experience with this before we put the money into it?

Thanks,
Fizz


----------



## levron41

If i was you, I would steelflex from the outside and hit it with some 5200 on the inside. It seems to me that steelflex would stick to anything! Let the experts chime in but I really think steelflex would stick to ice :roll:


----------



## Troutman3000

If the rivets are loose and continue to move when the hull flexes it will chip or break. I would use gluv it on the inside of the boats to help with or eliminate leaking rivets only after rebucking them. I had first hand experience with the steel flex cracking and chipping around loose rivets. If sealing them is your main concern you should use gluv it. Steel Flex will add protection to rivets that arent under a lot of stress.


----------



## Troutman3000

levron41 said:


> If i was you, I would steelflex from the outside and hit it with some 5200 on the inside. It seems to me that steelflex would stick to anything! Let the experts chime in but I really think steelflex would stick to ice :roll:




You wont have any problems with it sticking. I steel flexed over 5200 with no problem.


----------



## Goldfish

So you guys say if you beach it alot, it might not hold up. What about ice? My boat is, and for the most part will remain, a duck hunting boat. Up here in MN, late in the season ice is just expected. If I'll be pushing through that every year, is it really worth while to try and put anything on the bottom? I thought about hitting the couple leaky rivets and then steelflexing it, but now I'm not so sure. Maybe sealing it and then doing some sort of sealant on the inside would be better? The aluminum flexs..flexes..(how do you spell that one?).. bends (we'll use that) I know because if I step up to the bow, you can feel it bend under your feet. Add to that, the boat is pretty rickety and wobbly since the middle bench is out (and I don't plan on putting one in).


----------



## Troutman3000

If you are looking for a sealer you need to look at GLUV IT. Treat the inside and not the outside if you are going to be beaching it all the time. The steelflex will chip and break trust me. If its just a few leaky rivets use 5200 in the inside and call it done. If its more than that try some gluv it.


----------



## bnseymour

ok..so you are say'n the steel flex WILL chip and crack if it is beached..my buddy says the steel flex is the only way to go but now I dont know if its worth the $$ if it will chip and crack. As far as a sealer im thinking if you only seal the inside only you wont be able to get that small area between the rivet and the floor brace??? What about just putting 5200 or jb weld on the leakers (on the bottom) then cover the bottom of the boat w/ a few thick coats of a good oil base paint or even an epoxy style paint like the stuff they put on the garage floors?? I think a few GOOD coats of an oil base paint on top of the 5200 or jb weld will do just as good as steel flex and the cost will be lower...We are at the point of painting and just dont know what to do..We need everyone to chime in on this one..check out our mod..16' ouchita mod 3 guys with some beers


----------



## Troutman3000

Gluv it is an epoxy that seaps (sp) into the seams and rivet areas from the inside. It is also slightly flexible after it dries so that it wont crack or break, however it isnt uv protected so you have to paint over it. Read on iboats what everyone thinks about it. Steelflex will chip and crack if its hit hard enough or if the hull flexes too much.


----------



## sixshootertexan

One more question.
Is it necessary to apply 2 coats?


----------



## tfizzle172

Okay, so, besides using steelflex on the outside cause we don't want it to chip.....what would be next best/cheap thing that will last for awhile on the bottom? Troutman I know you said it will chip, but how easily? and has anyone else been rough on their steelflexed bottom and had it stand test of time? If not steelflex then what should we use?

Thanks in advance,
Fizz


----------



## Brine

sixshootertexan said:


> One more question.
> Is it necessary to apply 2 coats?



In my opinion.... Absolutely



tfizzle172 said:


> Okay, so, besides using steelflex on the outside cause we don't want it to chip.....what would be next best/cheap thing that will last for awhile on the bottom? Troutman I know you said it will chip, but how easily? and has anyone else been rough on their steelflexed bottom and had it stand test of time? If not steelflex then what should we use?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Fizz



I don't think you're going to find a product less likely to chip if it's applied correctly. 

Going off your previous post, it sounds like you need to fix some rivets and have a crack welded. Steelflex doesn't repair either. Rebucking the rivets doesn't cost anything and you could use some 5200 as insurance. If getting the crack welded isn't an option, you can use the underwater epoxy putty on the crack, 5200, and whatever additional concoction you think may work. Keep in mind, if and when the "patch" fails, how fast water will fill the boat and whether or not the potential consequences of that are worth investing in fixing the problem at the source. 

If you fix the leaky rivets and weld the crack, you'll fix the problem for the same price or less of a hiding the problem with a gallon of steelflex.


----------



## tfizzle172

Brine,

I think you are exactly right, I got a buddy coming tonight to weld the boat. Is re-bucking just holding a board on one end and smacking the head with a hammer on the other?


----------



## Brine

You want something heavy (like a sledge hammer) to hold against the inside of the rivet, while someone taps the head of the rivet with a hammer (not a sledge hammer). A ball peen hammer would probably preserve the shape of your rivet head.


----------



## Howard

My 2 cents: My tin had leaky rivets and a couple of serious splits in the hull and gussets.. I had the splits and leaky rivets welded. I then applied steelflex to the hull. I now have zero leaks. I personally would not rely on any epoxy when it came to leaks unless it was absolutely the last choice. I am sure my steelflex will chip somewhat but I am fine with that. So will paint. I especially would not put epoxy on the inside of my boat.


----------



## Troutman3000

Howard said:


> My 2 cents: My tin had leaky rivets and a couple of serious splits in the hull and gussets.. I had the splits and leaky rivets welded. I then applied steelflex to the hull. I now have zero leaks. I personally would not rely on any epoxy when it came to leaks unless it was absolutely the last choice. I am sure my steelflex will chip somewhat but I am fine with that. So will paint. I especially would not put epoxy on the inside of my boat.




Gluv it is designed to seal boats from the inside. Do some research on it and you will find that most alluminum boat restorers on iboats love and swear by the stuff. But I think it is designed to seal leaky rivets and seams not heavily damaged areas.

If your hull is subject to flexing or being beached a lot the steel flex will fail. I applied it correctly and I had these issues within 2-3 times on the lake. The rivets leave a raised surface that is vunerable to knicks and cracks.

Steel flex is fine if you are in calmer water and wont be banging waves and what nots. 

Brine and Howard are correct the only real way to fix the leaks are welds and rebucking, however even after rebucking some of my rivets they would loosen again. Then you have to install new rivets and I dont really have the skill for that on my tracker.


----------



## Troutman3000

sixshootertexan said:


> One more question.
> Is it necessary to apply 2 coats?




Two coats are better than one.


----------



## Troutman3000

Also hate to admit this but on my current boat I had some leaky rivets that I rebucked several times that would eventually loosed over time. I did a little research and bought some stuff called Alcoa Gutter Sealent. It useds primarily on aluminum gutters. I applied it to all my leaky rivets on the outside of the boat beaucse I have decided the boat is in such bad shape that its not worth refinishing. Well I was impressed after taking the boat out because all the leaks had stopped around the rivets. The stuff actually dries a metallic color so it doesnt look bad either.

One I put it back on the trailor all the seals were still in place even after hitting some rough waters. It seems like it should last a while a took about 25% of a tube that costs 13 dollars.


----------



## Howard

I have done the research and have a can of Gluv-it in the garage. I plan to use it but for a different application. No doubt this is a good product and will seal leaks. For me, when it comes to water penetration I will look for the best permanent solution. I guess after my battles with water penetration, industrial, commercially and residential, my experience tells me to attack the problem from the outside in and not the inside out. At times my thinking is not economical or practical but it normally is a one time fix.


----------



## cactusjack

Adding tint? I have read this entire thread and noticed a few people mention you can add whatever tint color you may want from Home deport or the like. Does anybody know how much would need to be added and are the tints used at the big box retailors compatible with the steelflex? Do they use different tints for different paints or are they all the same. Thanks in advance for any info


----------



## Troutman3000

Howard said:


> I have done the research and have a can of Gluv-it in the garage. I plan to use it but for a different application. No doubt this is a good product and will seal leaks. For me, when it comes to water penetration I will look for the best permanent solution. I guess after my battles with water penetration, industrial, commercially and residential, my experience tells me to attack the problem from the outside in and not the inside out. At times my thinking is not economical or practical but it normally is a one time fix.




Agreed.


----------



## cactusjack

cactusjack said:


> Adding tint? I have read this entire thread and noticed a few people mention you can add whatever tint color you may want from Home deport or the like. Does anybody know how much would need to be added and are the tints used at the big box retailors compatible with the steelflex? Do they use different tints for different paints or are they all the same. Thanks in advance for any info



To answer my own question and for others I went by HD and Lowes yesterday and asked about adding their tint to the steelflex, both places advised it was a no-go and advised me I would have to go to a marine shop that dealt with paints. Has anypne ever had tint added at HD or Lowes? I may try Ace Hardware since they seem to be a bit more personable.


----------



## Brine

cactusjack said:


> cactusjack said:
> 
> 
> 
> Adding tint? I have read this entire thread and noticed a few people mention you can add whatever tint color you may want from Home deport or the like. Does anybody know how much would need to be added and are the tints used at the big box retailors compatible with the steelflex? Do they use different tints for different paints or are they all the same. Thanks in advance for any info
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To answer my own question and for others I went by HD and Lowes yesterday and asked about adding their tint to the steelflex, both places advised it was a no-go and advised me I would have to go to a marine shop that dealt with paints. Has anypne ever had tint added at HD or Lowes? I may try Ace Hardware since they seem to be a bit more personable.
Click to expand...


Fasco (the maker's off) advised me that any paint store could add colorant. I'm wondering if HD was simply playing it safe. I wouldn't think that colorant would be rated for marine use or not, but.... I don't know.


----------



## Pops14

Fasco has there own pigments. I chose white and am just waiting till I have enough time to apply it.


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## cactusjack

Brine, 

Hd was probably playing it safe, or maybe I need to try it another day when a different person is there. You would think it wouldnt matter. Ijust wanted more of choice then the 5 or so colors fasco offers


----------



## sixshootertexan

I did my boat today. Taking the info that I have read here on Tinboats I think it went fairly well. The only thing I have to complain about is how much I wasted on the first coat. Using Dixie cups to dip out each component and placing in a mixing container I lost some of the Steelfex. The stuff being so thick it's hard to get it off the cup. When I started the second coat I had room to put the cup inside the can until I needed to mix the next batch saving the wasted amount that was left to run off the cup onto the newspapers I had under everything. 
I put on a thin first coat and used four of the foam rollers. I applied a thicker second coat and used only 1 roller. I also found that mixing a larger amount was better for me. First coat I mixed 10oz and the second coat I mixed 16oz. One other thing was I put the neutral in the mixing container first on the first coat and it covered up the measuring line on the container making it hard to see how much of the clear I was pouring in. 

Thanks for all the good info everyone has contributed to this forum.


----------



## jbakerinc

DO they make a clear steelflex for polished boats???


----------



## dave shady

Is it safe to use "PLASTIC" bun glide sliks with a steel flexed hull not to mention a rivited hull?

I got them from Bass Pro called EZ-Slide Trailer pads, I had them on my old boat but
it was an all welded boat and not coating on the bottom.

Appreciate info as im ready to put them on the trailer but not sure if its a good idea or not.







This is the type but the ends of the bunks have ENDERS - like a cap to protect


----------



## Bugpac

Steelflex comes in natural, I don't think it is clear. And i would think the steel flex would slide on the plastic ok.


----------



## Brine

dave shady said:


> Is it safe to use "PLASTIC" bun glide sliks with a steel flexed hull not to mention a rivited hull?



I wouldn't. At least not yet. Not because of the steelflex, but because of the riveted hull. Just asking for problems IMO. Most of the slicks I've seen have a warning on them about not using them with a riveted hull and given the layout of those you pictured, I can see why. If you have a set of rivets that will be bumping the edge of each slick, I would think it could eventually damage/loosen the rivet. 

The steelflex should make the boat trailer just fine without needing the slicks. If I'm wrong, just take the slicks with you one day while you're at the lake and put them on. I would wait till you realize you need them though.


----------



## ohiolunker

Just spoke with Jerry and Janet at Fasco to put in a order today. Class act customer service. Went out of their way to make sure they answered any questions I might have and told me to call any time if I needed help. I told them I heard about their product online and they immediately asked if I was on tinboats. Apparently they get a decent amount of business from this site. I have to say, based on my experience so far I would gladly recommend this company to anyone.


----------



## Mojo^

I just spent a good hour reading through 11 pages of posts and I want to make sure I'm reading this correctly. 
I have a 1442 jon boat so I will probably need 2 gallons of steelflex to cover the entire boat inside and out. Correct? Can steelflex by used like a final paint top coat over Gluvit?


----------



## ohiolunker

Mojo^ said:


> I just spent a good hour reading through 11 pages of posts and I want to make sure I'm reading this correctly.
> I have a 1442 jon boat so I will probably need 2 gallons of steelflex to cover the entire boat inside and out. Correct? Can steelflex by used like a final paint top coat over Gluvit?


Not sure about Gluvit question, but I just ordered 2 gallons to do my entire 12 footer inside and out. I'm figuring on having extra when I'm done. I would definitely recommend calling and talking with Jerry @ Fasco. He seems like a good guy and will point you in the right direction.


----------



## Express

fasco unlimiteds phone just rings and rings when i call. i tried 5 times last week. anyone know what is going on here? i have ?'s about the steelflex before i can purchase it


----------



## Express

Bttt


----------



## Brine

305.821.9441

This is the number I dialed when I ordered mine.


----------



## Fish N Phil

do i have to use steel flex? or can i just use rust o lume primer? and then rust o lume paint


----------



## TTSam

I ordered a gallon yesterday 5/4/11. The phone rang once and I made my order, $65.00.


----------



## Brine

Fish N Phil said:


> do i have to use steel flex? or can i just use rust o lume primer? and then rust o lume paint



You don't have to use anything. It's all preference usually dictated by objective and budget.

steelflex is not just paint like Rustoleum.... (assuming that is what you are spelling)

Welcome to the site!


----------



## Fish N Phil

Thanks Brine for the welcome.
And yes that is what i was trying to spell sorry for that.
But here on this site i thought as long as i was close to spelling as i can that would do.
I'm not well educated but I do love to fish as all you do here.
And again thanks for your responce.


----------



## Brine

Fish N Phil said:


> Thanks Brine for the welcome.
> And yes that is what i was trying to spell sorry for that.
> But here on this site i thought as long as i was close to spelling as i can that would do.
> I'm not well educated but I do love to fish as all you do here.
> And again thanks for your responce.



FnP,

We welcome everyone here as long as they live by the rules, and good spelling isn't one of them! So we're good  

Hope you didn't think I was picking at ya. Just wanted to make sure I understood your question. 

Glad you found us!


----------



## Express

Hey all! please post pics of your olive drab STEELFLEX boats. I want to order mine soon but im not sure if i will like fascos od color. Thanks


----------



## Henry Hefner

Express said:


> Hey all! please post pics of your olive drab STEELFLEX boats. I want to order mine soon but im not sure if i will like fascos od color. Thanks



What many call Olive Drab today is a pastel green. What Steelflex calls Olive Drab is what the Army called it years ago, what most today call Army Green.

In the first pic, it looks a little darker that actual, because of the sun's angle. Even though you can't see the outside hull well in the second pic, I included it because what you can see at the rear is more the actual color in sunlight. Had I seen pics before I mixed the pigment, I probably would still have ordered O.D., but just put in about half of the pigment to lighten it up. What you can see on the inside of the hull is Rustoleum.


----------



## Express

henry, thanks for the pics and info! i was afraid it would be that shade. your boat looks great but my personal preference is the more "modern day" od like the color that on most new flat bottoms. jerry at fasco did say that i could change the color by adding less pigment but its hard to say what shade i will end up with. this stuff is so permanent and does not hold paint very well so i want to make sure i will like the color before i apply it.

any members ever used half of the od pigment???? if so please post pics. thanks


----------



## Henry Hefner

Express, 
I know you probably want to see the color before you *BUY* it, but if you just want to check before you *APPLY* it, you can do that. You mix in the color with one part BEFORE you mix in the clear hardener, so you don't have to be in a hurry while adding tint. You could just add a little tint at a time and decide when you have it green enough, and then just wait to add in the hardener until just before you paint. This method would keep it from being too dark, but it wouldn't allow you to actually change the color if a dab of another color was needed to get what you wanted. 
This made sense to me when I typed it, I hope it still makes sense when you read it! If not, ask for more detail...


----------



## haolehawaiian

I looked at the website but there isn't much on there. I don't want to sound like a total idiot when I call to order so...

What should I order? 
How do I see samples of the pigments?


----------



## Express

thanks henry!

haolehawaiian, i hear ya man. as popular as their products are you would think they would improve their website with pics and more detailed info. you will get all kinds of info on this site but you best bet is to call fasco and talk to Jerry. he will sett you up with everything you need. keep in mind that they do not accept credit/debit cards and you will have to mail a cashiers check before they will send product.

i will be steelflexing the entire exterior of my boat so i need to make sure i like the color.

guys, post up pics of steelflex please..............


----------



## haolehawaiian

Express said:


> thanks henry!
> 
> haolehawaiian, i hear ya man. as popular as their products are you would think they would improve their website with pics and more detailed info. you will get all kinds of info on this site but you best bet is to call fasco and talk to Jerry. he will sett you up with everything you need. keep in mind that they do not accept credit/debit cards and you will have to mail a cashiers check before they will send product.
> 
> i will be steelflexing the entire exterior of my boat so i need to make sure i like the color.
> 
> guys, post up pics of steelflex please..............



From what everyone says, the customer service is great and they are very helpful...but someone needs to get them to join the 21st century and AT LEAST accept CCs...geez! I need to see colors as well...trying to match stuff on my boat.


----------



## Express

haolehawaiian said:


> Express said:
> 
> 
> 
> thanks henry!
> 
> haolehawaiian, i hear ya man. as popular as their products are you would think they would improve their website with pics and more detailed info. you will get all kinds of info on this site but you best bet is to call fasco and talk to Jerry. he will sett you up with everything you need. keep in mind that they do not accept credit/debit cards and you will have to mail a cashiers check before they will send product.
> 
> i will be steelflexing the entire exterior of my boat so i need to make sure i like the color.
> 
> guys, post up pics of steelflex please..............
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From what everyone says, the customer service is great and they are very helpful...but someone needs to get them to join the 21st century and AT LEAST accept CCs...geez! I need to see colors as well...trying to match stuff on my boat.
Click to expand...


i hear you man. i spoke with jerry again today and mentioned the website and pictures as well as offering more colors. and basically he is just a small shop and does not have a web or pc person due to cost and he doesnt offer many colors for the same reason. he said the color pigments are very expensive and he has to buy big pals of each color. i can respect that and gotta give it up to the small business owners these days. its tuff out there. he did say that we can use any other color pigments designed for polyester or resin based epoxies (4oz per gallon) so i am going to check out my local auto body paint supplier and see what they have to offer.


----------



## haolehawaiian

Express said:


> haolehawaiian said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Express said:
> 
> 
> 
> thanks henry!
> 
> haolehawaiian, i hear ya man. as popular as their products are you would think they would improve their website with pics and more detailed info. you will get all kinds of info on this site but you best bet is to call fasco and talk to Jerry. he will sett you up with everything you need. keep in mind that they do not accept credit/debit cards and you will have to mail a cashiers check before they will send product.
> 
> i will be steelflexing the entire exterior of my boat so i need to make sure i like the color.
> 
> guys, post up pics of steelflex please..............
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From what everyone says, the customer service is great and they are very helpful...but someone needs to get them to join the 21st century and AT LEAST accept CCs...geez! I need to see colors as well...trying to match stuff on my boat.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> i hear you man. i spoke with jerry again today and mentioned the website and pictures as well as offering more colors. and basically he is just a small shop and does not have a web or pc person due to cost and he doesnt offer many colors for the same reason. he said the color pigments are very expensive and he has to buy big pals of each color. i can respect that and gotta give it up to the small business owners these days. its tuff out there. he did say that we can use any other color pigments designed for polyester or resin based epoxies (4oz per gallon) so i am going to check out my local auto body paint supplier and see what they have to offer.
Click to expand...


I'm not knocking the small biz issue. Yeah it is super hard to do these days. Just a thought...if anyone on here is web-design savvy, perhaps they could help him build something really basic and get him a paypal account or something...in exchange for some product. again, just a thought. I would do it, but I'm not sure I could deliver something acceptable enough. Anyway, is there a way to see colors? I don't even care that there aren't that many to choose from, I would just prefer to see what I am getting!


----------



## Express

Jim "site admin", would it be possible for you to set up a new thread to help us all with this? A thread for pics of Steelflexed boats only IMO would be a great addition to the site. It would be a nice way to thank Fasco Unlimited for their service as well.


----------



## Brine

Jerry at Fasco was helpful in my project, but the reality is.....

He has to be because the website doesn't get the job done. Hence why there are so many questions about the product. TinBoats has been as good, or better, in service to Fasco than the other way around. I'm assured that we are the best unpaid organized advertising the company has. Google will confirm it.

If any members want to provide a service to Jerry, it would be to encourage him to be a site sponsor. Jerry has already been made aware of the details. Again, I am a satisfied customer myself and think it's a great product.


----------



## Express

i am still trying to find a pigment that looks more like the new jon boats. the paint supply store rep suggested i contact PPG which i did and i also sent them the msds sheet for the steelflex 9x. so we'll see what they have to offer.

if any members have tinted the steelflex with something other than fasco pigments please let me know.


----------



## Mojo^

Fasco told me that any polyester resign pigment will work with Steelflex. What they do is basically mix various pigments to get the desired color. For them, I don't think the tinting process is an exact science and you will pretty much have to make do with what they "think" it is that you want unless you have a way of sending them a color sample and even then they can probably only come close. Take a look at https://www.uscomposites.com/pigments.html to see a sample of the base colors. You can get pretty much anything you want by mixing various pigments but unless you have a automated process like what they have in the paint department of Lowe's or Home Depot I doubt it will be consistent from batch to batch. It's going to get a little iffy if they have to start adding more than one pigment to get a custom color. When I send them my check, I'm going to include a color sample courtesy of Lowe's and hopefully they will be able to come close to matching it.


----------



## Express

thats funny because i just discovered us composites today. i called them and they do not mix custom colors. 

so am i hearing you correctly? you are sending a color sample to Fasco? i didn't think they mixed custom colors either. or at least they didn't mention it to me during the three conversations i have had with them on the whole "lack of color options" thing. 

double check with them and if they will do this then my problems are solved! i can come up with a sample in no time.

i just can't believe that i am the only one who wants his jon boat to look like the "new" lowe or tracker jons. it just seems that fasco would want to offer this as a stock color.

like this





or this


----------



## Mojo^

What I'm trying to say, albeit poorly, is that they probably can't do exactly what you want. They add a couple of spoonfuls of this and a couple of that to get what they consider to be basic colors, olive drab being one of them but I don't think they can get an exact match. What they may think is dark blue may be something entirely different than what I am imagining so I just thought that sending them a sample might help clarify the color that I want and they can try to come close. At least get in the neighborhood. The new Lowe and Tracker boats are more what I would consider to be a various shades of sage green than anything else and unless Fasco has a tinter to accurately meter the pigments to match the color exactly (which they don't) you're probably going to be stuck with what they consider to be basic colors unless you want to try and tint it yourself.


----------



## Express

Fasco buys the pigment colors ready to go they do not mix any. I could just steelflex the bottom and up the side half way and then paint the rest the jon boat color but imo no fasco color will look good with it and painting over the flex has not worked well for others. On top of that my jon is not ver deep so it would be nice to seal the entire outside with flex.


----------



## Brine

It's a two part epoxy. Take part 1 to your local paint store and have them shoot whatever color you want. Just remember that no matter what, it is going to have an extremely slick (GLOSSY) appearance unlike that of any off the shelf jon boat. Even if you were to have Dr. Paint shoot an exact color match to an existing typical jon boat color, it will look like 2 seperate products on the boat.

Expect to pay the paint store for their colorant, and if you know you want a shade of green, go ahead and bring the green that comes from steelflex and see if the Paint store thinks they can use it. 

Anyone with color matching experience can do this for you. It's usually a 3, 4, or 5 time effort, gradaully working your way to the desired color. If you grab a color sample off the shelf that is close to what you want, it will give the store insight on the colors needed to achieve it and serve as the comparison.


----------



## Bugpac

I work on a team that the owner is a ppg distributor, get a color code via ppg and let me know what it is, i will see if i can get some pigment.


----------



## Bugpac

Im guessing this is it.


----------



## Express

hit a dead end at the paint store so i'm going with my 2nd choice which is grey. i think the steelflex 9x grey will look pretty good. 

thanks for the help guys!


----------



## Mojo^

Express said:


> hit a dead end at the paint store so i'm going with my 2nd choice which is grey. i think the steelflex 9x grey will look pretty good.
> 
> thanks for the help guys!



Please post some pics after you get the Steelflex applied. I have been considering using the grey myself and would like to see how it looks.


----------



## devilmutt

Mojo^ said:


> Express said:
> 
> 
> 
> hit a dead end at the paint store so i'm going with my 2nd choice which is grey. i think the steelflex 9x grey will look pretty good.
> 
> thanks for the help guys!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please post some pics after you get the Steelflex applied. I have been considering using the grey myself and would like to see how it looks.
Click to expand...


I used the grey Steelflex, this is with the full jar of pigment added. It looks a bit darker than the picture, the picture was taken with a flash.


----------



## Mojo^

Nice devilmutt. That's much lighter than I thought it'd be. Is the blue also Steelflex?


----------



## devilmutt

The blue is Rustoleum Topside paint.


----------



## Mojo^

It looks great. I really like the grey on dark blue look.


----------



## Express

i'll try to take several pics of the grey steelflex being applied and some finished pics as well. im still waiting for it to arrive which is ok because i'm still sanding away!


----------



## Mojo^

Are there any advantages with Steelflex over the Frog Spit product? I contacted the folks at Bullfrog Marine that sells Frog Spit and it seems that it requires a LOT of product to obtain adequate coverage. The email from them said that a 14'x7' area would require 2 gal. to obtain a coating 1/8" thick and I can only assume this was after several coats. 1/8" thickness seems a bit excessive. Steelflex doesn't require such a thickness to be effective, does it? I'm just looking for good coverage and the added bonus of sealing rivets.


----------



## juggernoob

devilmutt said:


> The blue is Rustoleum Topside paint.



How much of the Rustoleum did it take to cover the top?


----------



## devilmutt

I ordered two 1 quart cans from Home Depot and used most of it. I sprayed on a few coats and rolled on a few more, and have some left over for touch ups.


----------



## Express

Ok i am going to apply the steelflex this week. Any last tips before i start? 

The supplies:

Gloves, solvent resistant short nap rollers, brushes, measuring cups, paint mixer for drill, acetone, tack cloth, masking tape, paper, plastic putty knife

The plan:

Keep shop at 78*, Lay plastic down on shop floor, acetone hull, tack cloth hull, mix equal parts flex maybe 1 cup at a time, apply a thin coat to entire hull and wait 30 min or so until it gets "maskin tape tacky" (per jerry @ fasco) and then apply thicker coat to entire hull working from stern to bow. Allow four days to cure. 

Please let me know if i am missing anything


----------



## Henry Hefner

Express, If you are just going to mix one cup at a time, your drill mounted paint mixer will be overkill. I used some cheap paint measuring cups, I think a quart size from Walmart, and mixed 20-24 ounces at a time.


----------



## Express

Henry Hefner said:


> Express, If you are just going to mix one cup at a time, your drill mounted paint mixer will be overkill. I used some cheap paint measuring cups, I think a quart size from Walmart, and mixed 20-24 ounces at a time.



lol! yeah i will be mixing one cup of each part so two cups at a time and i am using the same measuring cups as you. the drill mixer is more for mixing the pigment into part 2 of the flex but i think it will work fine to mix the two parts together


----------



## Express

Well i got the steelflex on last night (click link below to my build)

Question: Are the dry times on the label correct? It reads- thin coats 12-24 hrs / thick coats 4-6 hrs. Seems "Bass" ackwards to me lol

Can someone clarify on this?


----------



## austin619

could you paint over steelflex, or do you have to add pigments, because i was wanting to camo my boat? thanks


----------



## Brine

Express said:


> Well i got the steelflex on last night (click link below to my build)
> 
> Question: Are the dry times on the label correct? It reads- thin coats 12-24 hrs / thick coats 4-6 hrs. Seems "Bass" ackwards to me lol
> 
> Can someone clarify on this?



That's correct. The thicker the epoxy is when you apply it, the faster it will cure. Think in terms of chemical reaction. Not sure if you noticed, but the product heats up after you mix it.


----------



## mightymite45

So which is better thick or thin?


----------



## Express

mightymite45 said:


> So which is better thick or thin?



Not sure if you are refering to several thin coats vs. One thick coat but imo for strength and durability one thick coat curing all at once would be better. But you still need to apply a very thin coat first which will bond to the aluminum per Jerry at Fasco. I put my 2nd and final coat on real thick on the bottom and thinner on the sides of my hull.


----------



## jonmac3569

Here is a pic of my boat I just applied steelflex too. I used 1/2 the olive drab pigment for a gallon and it is still pretty dark.


----------



## Troy M

Hello
I have just joined this site. I have been looking at the projects on here for a few weeks and may I say I am impressed.

Has anyone used Steelfex on the inside of the boat as well as the outside?


----------



## Mojo^

Troy M said:


> Hello
> I have just joined this site. I have been looking at the projects on here for a few weeks and may I say I am impressed.
> 
> Has anyone used Steelfex on the inside of the boat as well as the outside?



I've seen it done but it's not advisable because it's so slick. I originally planned to go that route but have since seen the error of my ways and used Gluvit on the inside and am about to apply Steelflex on the outside. Only one or the other is really needed but I'm one of those belt AND suspenders kind of guys.


----------



## lukelona

how much does th steelflex cost?
what do you need for tools and supplies.
how is it applied?
where can i buy it in person


----------



## BassBlaster

lukelona said:


> how much does th steelflex cost?
> what do you need for tools and supplies.
> how is it applied?
> where can i buy it in person


1. Depends how much you need. Its sold in a couple differnt sizes. 1 gallon shipped to OH was right about $65
2. All those items are mentioned in this thread. If you plan to use Steelflex, this thread is a must read.
3. Same answer as #2
4. You can't unless you live near thier location in FL. You have to order over the phone.


----------



## Mojo^

lukelona said:


> how much does th steelflex cost?
> what do you need for tools and supplies.
> how is it applied?
> where can i buy it in person



Yeah, it's a lot to sort through but there is definitely need-to-know information embedded within the 21+ pages of SteelFlex posts. Don't be afraid to call the folks at Fasco either. They are very knowledgeable, helpful and patient. I highly recommend at least one conversation with them before proceeding. Super-nice people.

Interesting note though. Fasco is now recommending prepping the surface by sanding with 30-60 grit sandpaper rather than the 100 grit I see referenced so often.


----------



## mechanicworkman

I just got done applying steel flex to entire outside of boat! This stuff was a Pain in the arse! but it works good I went with the olive drab color now that i am done applying steel flew i dont like the color as much as i did on my flat bottom can anyone tell me if they have had any success painting over steel flex i think i want to go with a grey color now!


----------



## Mojo^

Has anyone ever had to drill through the hull for any reason after Steelflex has been applied? If you had to drill later to install something like a bilge pump outlet, could it possibly cause the Steelflex to crack and chip?


----------



## mechanicworkman

Mojo^ said:


> Has anyone ever had to drill through the hull for any reason after Steelflex has been applied? If you had to drill later to install something like a bilge pump outlet, could it possibly cause the Steelflex to crack and chip?




Steelflex is sandable, drillable, and the resistance to many things is awsome its pretty good stuff and yes I have drilled it without any problems! 

On thing I will note is that I HATE STEELFLEX it is a fantastic product when finished but the ablility to repaint over the top of it with another kind a paint sucks per jerry at fasco you can only cover steel flex with more steel flex to me this seems like total BS I have not attempted covering with other kind of paint but thats what he said. IT IS A TOTAL PAIN IN ASS TO APPLY

I thought the customer service lady was nice on the phone but totally lacking knowledge on the product evidently the only one there that seems to know there head from there butt is Jerry and each time i talked to him he seemed to be in a rush and dont feel that he took the time to answer my questions.


----------



## Mojo^

Finally, after a very long and hot summer rebuilding a 1542 Grumman Scrambler I applied Steelflex today. I used an ounce of grey pigment and added an additional 1/2 ounce of black to bump it a little darker. It's very close to what I consider a battleship grey now. I'll post pics in a day or two. The 1542 took an entire gallon of Steelflex and 6 hours working non-stop to coat the exterior surface up to the gunwale. Even at 80 degrees and only 25% humidity that stuff is very difficult to work with. I only mixed 1/2 cup of base and catalyst at a time for the first light coat and then doubled the amount for an extra thick second coat. Those who compare it to trying to paint with cake batter or honey are correct, that's exactly what it is like. I used a little different method than most people here have used. I don't know how you guys manage applying this stuff with a foam roller. I highly recommend using the phenolic core rollers made for epoxies that are sold buy U.S. Composites. I only used four rollers to do the entire boat and didn't have to worry about them falling apart.

Has anyone ever considered using a hot plate to heat-up the cans of base and catalyst to about 110 degrees or so?


----------



## duckwhisperer

How much steel flex do I need to do the bottom of a 14 ft v- hull?


----------



## Mojo^

duckwhisperer said:


> How much steel flex do I need to do the bottom of a 14 ft v- hull?



Can you calculate the square footage? Jerry at Steelflex told me that 1 gal. will cover 400 sq. feet. (one light coat followd by one heavy coat) and he was pretty much spot-on with that estimate.


----------



## Firescooby

Mojo^ said:


> Troy M said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello
> I have just joined this site. I have been looking at the projects on here for a few weeks and may I say I am impressed.
> 
> Has anyone used Steelfex on the inside of the boat as well as the outside?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen it done but it's not advisable because it's so slick. I originally planned to go that route but have since seen the error of my ways and used Gluvit on the inside and am about to apply Steelflex on the outside. Only one or the other is really needed but I'm one of those belt AND suspenders kind of guys.
Click to expand...


So being slick is the only reason not to do the inside?

My Steelflex is on the way and was thinking about doing the floor area of the inside as well as the outside. My floor will be decked, so it won't be seen or stepped on. Main reason I was wanting to was to add double insurance to any leaks.

Thanks


----------



## Mojo^

When you dip your first scoop, you'll understand why. Gluvit flows more easily (much thinner) and has a longer pot life. It will seep into seams, welds, rivets or what have you. SteelFlex just kind of lays there waiting for you to push it around.


----------



## Firescooby

Mojo^ said:


> When you dip your first scoop, you'll understand why. Gluvit flows more easily (much thinner) and has a longer pot life. It will seep into seams, welds, rivets or what have you. SteelFlex just kind of lays there waiting for you to push it around.



Well, I have a gallon of Steelflex coming and don't think I'll use it all on the bottom of my boat. Was just trying to think of something to use it on and add double insurance to leaks.


----------



## Brine

You'll end up mixing small batches together to work from. Anything you have left over, I'd hold on to. The shelf life should be okay to use again in the future if needed.


----------



## Firescooby

Brine said:


> You'll end up mixing small batches together to work from. Anything you have left over, I'd hold on to. The shelf life should be okay to use again in the future if needed.



Yeah, from reading on here, I was gonna mix 1 quart at a time. I'm gonna give it a shot on the inside bottom and see how it works out. Definitely gonna save what I have left over.


----------



## hallzyballzy

Does anybody know the shelf life on steelflex? I ordered a gallon of black for my 14' jon boat. But it looks like I'm going to hold off on decking it out. Might be buying a house in the next month or so if everything goes good. Any ideas?


----------



## bdbarrie

Anybody in Ontario Canada Order this stuff? I want to order but wondering if they will ship it over the border, i know gluvit is unavailable up here now.if so how much will it cost me? and does it come in Grey?

Thanks
Bill


----------



## Firescooby

bdbarrie said:


> Anybody in Ontario Canada Order this stuff? I want to order but wondering if they will ship it over the border, i know gluvit is unavailable up here now.if so how much will it cost me? and does it come in Grey?
> 
> Thanks
> Bill



It does come in gray, that is what I ordered (they include the pigment to add).

Seems like I've read on here that some canadians have ordered it. Search this thread or the site and see if you can find it.


----------



## Mojo^

hallzyballzy said:


> Does anybody know the shelf life on steelflex? I ordered a gallon of black for my 14' jon boat. But it looks like I'm going to hold off on decking it out. Might be buying a house in the next month or so if everything goes good. Any ideas?



The folks at Fasco told me about one year.


----------



## hallzyballzy

Thanks for the reply. Appreciate the help on this forum.


----------



## downtofish

I was wondering the cure time on steel flex, Could I get away with painting in a heated garage ? or does it take a few days to cure? I wouldn't want to run heaters more then 2 days straight but 24 hours at a time between coats would work... if I have to wait till spring I will but I'd like to have this thing in the water by april and counting on weather in NJ is like playing russian roulette. I havn't called fasco yet, figured somebody on here could help me out. Thanx in advance!


----------



## thatkidhugo

downtofish said:


> I was wondering the cure time on steel flex, Could I get away with painting in a heated garage ? or does it take a few days to cure? I wouldn't want to run heaters more then 2 days straight but 24 hours at a time between coats would work... if I have to wait till spring I will but I'd like to have this thing in the water by april and counting on weather in NJ is like playing russian roulette. I havn't called fasco yet, figured somebody on here could help me out. Thanx in advance!



I was wondering the same thing 8)


----------



## MRichardson

Regarding the "regular" Steelflex:

I've read this thread through and through multiple times, yet cannot see any specific example wherein this stuff was actually noted to be difficult to paint over. I do see where someone a few pages in says "they heard" paint did not stick, but no specific example. Thereafter a small portion of the posts seem to agree, but not sure why.

Jerry at Fasco told me it could be painted over, no problem. Someone toward the end stated that he said it could not, that only Steelflex could go over Steelflex. 

Very confusing. Anyone here have *direct personal experience *painting over the regular Steelflex? If so, how did it work out? Any flaking, separating, peeling?


----------



## 125temple

I'm doing a 14' Jon boat project, and the person before be let barnicals eat away at the bottom of the hull, Can I spray steelflex on the bottom to strengthen it? If you take a screw driver and stab the bottom you can puncher it, but not the sides. 

I was thinking bedliner might work...


----------



## Galveston340

125temple said:


> I'm doing a 14' Jon boat project, and the person before be let barnicals eat away at the bottom of the hull, Can I spray steelflex on the bottom to strengthen it? If you take a screw driver and stab the bottom you can puncher it, but not the sides.
> 
> I was thinking bedliner might work...



*....SAY WHAT? Personally if the hull is in that shape I wouldn't consider it sea worthy under any circumstances no matter what you coated the bottom with!!*


----------



## 125temple

Galveston340 said:


> 125temple said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm doing a 14' Jon boat project, and the person before be let barnicals eat away at the bottom of the hull, Can I spray steelflex on the bottom to strengthen it? If you take a screw driver and stab the bottom you can puncher it, but not the sides.
> 
> I was thinking bedliner might work...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *....SAY WHAT? Personally if the hull is in that shape I wouldn't consider it sea worthy under any circumstances no matter what you coated the bottom with!!*
Click to expand...


Yeah, I know where you are coming from. It's a project. I'l fix it.


----------



## mdue151

I have a 12 foot riveted v hull...what steel flex would I need and how much?


----------



## Tigerhunter

I just did my steelflex yesterday and I feel it turned out well. I plan on doing a some sort of write up/ walkthrough because I took pics as I was doing it bbut we will see if I get to it.

My biggest piece of advice.....use squeegees to spread it around on your boat, it works 1000 times better then pushing it with a foam roller. Get different sizes (widths) so you can get in the tight spots, I used my ice scraper that had a squeegee on one side. 

Once it was spread around I used a large ~10" foam roller (high quality) mainly to get an even texture and redistribute if it began to sag at all.

Also I ended up with a neat color....I think (the boat is still inside so we will see when it hits real light). I ordered the olive drab and the gray because I was undecided, neither of them were the shade I was looking for so I mixed them. Roughly 5/8 of the olive drab and about 3/8 of the grey turned out pretty good.

Pics to come sooner or later...


----------



## MRichardson

mdue151 said:


> I have a 12 foot riveted v hull...what steel flex would I need and how much?



1 gallon is more than enough for the exterior. 1 gallon come in 2 ½-gallon containers (1 for each part).

The regular stuff is by far the most preferred (on here, anyway).


----------



## groundshock

How does this stuff hold up to scratches/scrapes/running aground? I launch out of a couple rivers that have no docks, and you have to beach it to land. 

Was thinking that paint may not be the best idea in this situation.


----------



## Brine

groundshock said:


> How does this stuff hold up to scratches/scrapes/running aground? I launch out of a couple rivers that have no docks, and you have to beach it to land.
> 
> Was thinking that paint may not be the best idea in this situation.



Not good.


----------



## zeedogg

Does steelflex go over the top of resins, epoxys, etc? if i buy a boat covered with a jb weld material on -EVERY- freakin rivet, can I put my steelflex over this and be fine?

should i sand it strip it off, then steelflex?

any ideas and opinions welcome. Thanks. PS - could a guy epoxy the inside of a boat *(rivets)* for added 'just in case' protection, or is this a redundant step


----------



## Nismoron

groundshock said:


> How does this stuff hold up to scratches/scrapes/running aground? I launch out of a couple rivers that have no docks, and you have to beach it to land.
> 
> Was thinking that paint may not be the best idea in this situation.



Same problem that I have. I beach at launch all the time. So, what say you guys? how does this stuff hold up to sand an rock abrasions? I ad originally guys planned to touch up the hull often... Until I saw this thread today. I had never heard of this stuff.


----------



## Dockside85

One more Steelflex question for any one that knows. I ordered it and I have 1 gallon in the two half gallon containers and the pigment. To save a step in the mixing process, can you simply add all the pigment into the neutral base beforehand so you only have to mix the neutral base and the clear hardener? Or would that throw off the 1:1 mixing ratio?


----------



## Bugpac

Read the directions, I think your suppose to mix the pigment into the base if i recall. Plus this keeps color uniform, you dont wanna mix pigment every batch, you,ll never get it the exact same. To answer the question tho, You still only have 1 part base, and 1 part hardner. The pigment doesn't factor in to the equation, as it doesn't do anything to affect the chemical reaction cure.


----------



## zeedogg

Dockside85 said:


> One more Steelflex question for any one that knows. I ordered it and I have 1 gallon in the two half gallon containers and the pigment. To save a step in the mixing process, can you simply *add all the pigment into the neutral* base beforehand so you only have to mix the neutral base and the clear hardener? Or would that throw off the 1:1 mixing ratio?


----------



## medicman619

After waiting weeks for the temp to get above 75, it looks like I will be applying my Steel Flex this Weds.  I have read all 23 pages of this post and have only one question. Is there any special gloves that I need to apply this stuff? I work in a hospital and can get regular medical exam gloves. Will those work?


----------



## Dockside85

zeedogg said:


> Dockside85 said:
> 
> 
> 
> One more Steelflex question for any one that knows. I ordered it and I have 1 gallon in the two half gallon containers and the pigment. To save a step in the mixing process, can you simply *add all the pigment into the neutral* base beforehand so you only have to mix the neutral base and the clear hardener? Or would that throw off the 1:1 mixing ratio?
Click to expand...



Got it! I called Fascoe today and talked to Jerry. I guess what was throwing me off was that if I mixed all of the 4 oz of pigment into the half gallon of the neutral base that when I mixed 1 cup of the base and pigment with 1 cup of the clear hardener that it's actually a bit less than 1 cup of the true base because the pigment is mixed in it. I tend to overthink things and confused myself!

Thanks everyone! You all are a wealth of information!


----------



## Brine

medicman619 said:


> After waiting weeks for the temp to get above 75, it looks like I will be applying my Steel Flex this Weds.  I have read all 23 pages of this post and have only one question. Is there any special gloves that I need to apply this stuff? I work in a hospital and can get regular medical exam gloves. Will those work?



Yes


----------



## medicman619

Here are some pictures of my Steel Flex application. Had one serious sag near the bow after the second coat went on. I did the two person application. I found if you want a thinner coat, it is best not to pour the steel flex and try to push it around. We had problems controlling the thickness when poured. It's best if you can dip your brushes and then apply it. Also, we felt that the foam brushes did not work as well as inexpensive paint brushes. It was much easier to move the epoxy around than the foam brushes and rollers. Only draw back was the occasional loose bristle in the paint. The temp was 82+ degrees and seemed to be a good working temperature. We only had one batch that seemed to set up too quick. The paint on the boat is Krylon Camo Flat Olive Drab, and the Steel Flex is Olive Drab as well, using all of the pigment. The color match is better than it looks in the pics. It won't be perfect because one is gloss and the other is flat. Hope this helps someone!


----------



## Firescooby

medicman619 said:


> Here are some pictures of my Steel Flex application. Had one serious sag near the bow after the second coat went on. I did the two person application. I found if you want a thinner coat, it is best not to pour the steel flex and try to push it around. We had problems controlling the thickness when poured. It's best if you can dip your brushes and then apply it. Also, we felt that the foam brushes did not work as well as inexpensive paint brushes. It was much easier to move the epoxy around than the foam brushes and rollers. Only draw back was the occasional loose bristle in the paint. The temp was 82+ degrees and seemed to be a good working temperature. We only had one batch that seemed to set up too quick. The paint on the boat is Krylon Camo Flat Olive Drab, and the Steel Flex is Olive Drab as well, using all of the pigment. The color match is better than it looks in the pics. It won't be perfect because one is gloss and the other is flat. Hope this helps someone!



That looks REALLY nice!!!

Question: How many coats, how much did you have, and did you have any left?

Trying to figure out if I'm gonna have enough to go up on the sides some.


----------



## medicman619

Thanks! I bought one gallon. (1/2 gal of neutral, and 1/2 gal of hardener) I did two coats, but in hindsight the first coat was too thick. I have less than a pint left over. Depending on your boat, I would definitely buy more than a gallon if you wanted to continue up the side. I would also advise to do each side separetely after the bottom had cured (4 days). I would not try to apply this stuff on a vertical surface. Tilt the boat. So ideally, you would have about 12 days total with dry time. 4 days for the bottom and 4 days for each side.


----------



## Mojo^

One gallon covered the bottom and sides up to the gunwal and the exterior surface of the transom on my 1542. Two coats, one thin and one thick. For best results, use a phenolic core roller available from U.S. Composites. These are specially designed for use with epoxies. I think I only used three for the whole application.


----------



## Firescooby

Well, my 2 coats is DONE!!!

I can't remember who recommended it, but using bondo rubber paddles was the EASIEST thing I found. I used a foam roller after to even it out and get a consistent texture.


----------



## HILLDADDY88

Anyone know any tips on removing steelflex? iv found its not as durable as i thought it would be running my boat in rivers and beaching it in the lake here. And i didnt prep the sides good enough so its flaking off. any advice would be greatful!


----------



## Brine

HILLDADDY88 said:


> Anyone know any tips on removing steelflex? iv found its not as durable as i thought it would be running my boat in rivers and beaching it in the lake here. And i didnt prep the sides good enough so its flaking off. any advice would be greatful!



I'd say just keep running the rivers and beaching it. :mrgreen: 

I wish I knew an easy way, but I don't. The thought of using a flapper disc brings back too many bad memories. This stuff is meant for airboats going over matted vegetation. It does very little for protecting the hull from beaching the boat and hitting rocks. I'm still happy with it because I am electric only and I think it helps a bit getting the boat on the trailer bunks and winched to the bow stop. Other than that...... I don't see the value in it being any kind of sealer/protective barrier. I've had it on the boat for a couple years now.


----------



## juggernoob

Finally had time today to apply Steelflex to my 14' V-hull. I ordered it in Aug of 2010 where it then sat in my basement never opened. I know there was a question asking how long it could sit before being applied, fingers crossed. I only did the bottom and about maybe 3" up the sides. Hi Temp today was 90-92 degrees, super windy, and then thundershowers. I applied both coats outside in direct sunlight used 2- 6" foam rollers. First coat went on thin and took less than an hour, it took about ~1:20 for the first coat to be tacky, and the second coat went on thick in less than an hour, had sagging on the front of the V. So the forecast today was for possible thunder showers in the late evening. Possible turned into definite and late evening turned to an hour and a half after I applied the first coat. The second coat was already tacky when it started to rain, so I decided to leave it uncovered, it rained for ~2hrs. I went out after the rain stopped and wiped off the water, the final coat was tacky free at this point. If I could have done it differently I would have picked a less windy day, and the rain may have been a problem if it had started earlier. Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread.

Here are some pictures.


----------



## Victor Coar

I did a 14' v hull ryancraft,and a 12' v hull with 1 gallon total. 2 coats.


----------



## Jdmcconnell

I was just curious if anyone has tried spraying on steel flex with a shutz gun. I am rebuilding my trailer and am going to paint it with bed liner and they use a shutz gun to spray the bed liner on. Didn't know if something like that has been tried or if its more hassle than its worth.


----------



## Mojo^

Jdmcconnell said:


> I was just curious if anyone has tried spraying on steel flex with a shutz gun. I am rebuilding my trailer and am going to paint it with bed liner and they use a shutz gun to spray the bed liner on. Didn't know if something like that has been tried or if its more hassle than its worth.



When mixed, Steelflex is thicker than bed liner. Well, it's much thicker than Hurculiner anyway. It's kind of like honey.


----------



## Jdmcconnell

Ok. Makes sense. Thanks for the answer. I'm looking forward to using some of this stuff in the near future


----------



## smackdaddy53

you guys should check out GatorGlide bottom coating...its much better and whats going on the bottom of my boat. they make two kinds, G2 is slicker and G4 is tougher. about the same price as steelflex and much better reviews. you can also touch it up without prepping it much in spots if it gets worn down on the ribs etc.


----------



## Mojo^

I looked at GatorGlide but decided to go with SteelFlex for the sealing properties of a thick epoxy rather than the slickness. I won't be stump-jumping or slipping over marshes


----------



## kendogg619

Im a little late to this thread but i was wondering about the durability of the steelflex. will it hold up to being draged onto sand bars and on shore?? I cant make up my mind between a bedliner or steelflex. ](*,) I am after more of the durabilty aspect than the "water proofing" or leaky rivets.


----------



## Country Dave

kendogg619 said:


> Im a little late to this thread but i was wondering about the durability of the steelflex. will it hold up to being draged onto sand bars and on shore?? I cant make up my mind between a bedliner or steelflex. ](*,) I am after more of the durabilty aspect than the "water proofing" or leaky rivets.




_Steelflex is a durable as it gets, you won’t have any problems as long as you prep correctly and ably it correctly. _


----------



## fiberglass

Anyone looking for Fasco steelflex we carry this product. A gallon does about 120 sq feet.


----------



## Levi10

Just called Fasco and asked about a gallon of the regular steelflex(gray). They told me that it costs $142. Is this normal? I have seen prior posts mentioning around $70.


----------



## tcampbell011

I don't know much about painting and such, but I have an idea. If its possible to paint over steelflex, which we are unsure about, could the durability issue be solved by adding clear coats over the steelflex? That sounds like overkill but hey whynot?


----------



## fiberglass

If anybody needs any steelflex check out my website we have been selling fasco products for about 25 years. Also if anybody has any questions about any of their products let me know and I'll help you out. Thanks Jesse


----------



## apsauce

Just curious if anyone knows of a comparable product thatmight be a little cheaper?? Also, I read used to help with leaky rivits...how about cracks lol should I call a welder?


----------



## NLaudy

Anyone have these steelflex on for a few years now? How is holding up with rocks, stumps, etc?


----------



## goose_716

I go my hands on a old boat that someone put fiberglass across the bottom. there was numerous stress cracks that they had patched but sometime they put fiberglass across the bottom. Im pretty sure if they bought the resin from the local area i know it is a poly resin (epoxy not easily avail i tried when i built a boat) Should i remove the fiberglass from the bottom of the boat and then apply the flexsteel or maybe remove current fiberglass and replace with fiberglass and epoxy resin then put flexsteel over


----------



## tcampbell011

So I just got my steelflex in the mail. It was $88.66 for a gallon shipped to Montana. 

I opened the package and the cans had been really dinged up. The can that says "part num: 2 neutral" was cracked open and a little had gotten out.

Its too late today to call Fasco, I was just wondering if this is a big deal or not? I hammered the top of the can down to seal it back up. I don't know if the stuff is still good or not. 

Anyone know?


----------



## tcampbell011

Just talked to Jerry. He said I can just use masking tape or something to keep it in the jar if I need to. I guess its not a big deal if its sealed or not. 

The procedure he told me was to sand with 60 grit sandpaper and then wipe with acetone before applying.


----------



## huntinfool

Got mine last week and got the green tint. 

A couple years ago I did the bottom of a customers pontoon boat. He has some serious corrosion and some pitting. I sand blasted the bottom of the pontoons and wiped clean with acetone. I rolled on two layers and let it cure. The customer took the boat out and it has worked great for 2 years now. 

I have my 18' hanging now and I plan on getting the sand blaster cranked up and get it all cleaned up. Then I have some small holes to repair with epoxy. Once that is done, I'll apply the steel flex and then I should be good to go!


----------



## huntinfool

making progress.


----------



## huntinfool

Bottom is completely sand blasted. Its iced up down here so I have not been able to put the steel flex on. I epoxied some of the holes and will have to sand those, but I should be able to get it covered in the next 2 weeks. 

I did this on the bottom of a pontoon boat and it worked like a champ.


----------



## Brine

Well that's a nifty setup. Definitely wait for it to warm up before using the steelfex.


----------



## Silverad04

I ordered my steelflex from fiberglass supply, and have yet to apply. I see a whole lot of people saying that they had success with this product, but not a lot of people posting pictures of their finished product!!! I was planning on applying it in white. PLEASE someone post post up some pictures of white applied!!!!..... PLEASE [-o< [-o< [-o<


----------



## huntinfool

Well, my dad ordered the steel flex since I'm too busy at work. He thought he was doing a good thing and ordered their newest product with teflon in it. 
I'll say this, it does not apply like the original. I had a pretty hard time applying it while the boat was hanging. This new stuff would be best applied while the boat was turned upside down. I did get it on and I believe it will work, but not the prettiest. Also, I thought I had enough color in it......
I ended up with a see through sea foam green color. I hope it grows on me.


----------



## Silverad04

ostpics:


----------



## huntinfool

By the time I get home it is dark. I'll take some Sat.


----------



## huntinfool

[attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1393701678333.jpg[/attachment]


----------



## huntinfool

[attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1393701698930.jpg[/attachment]


----------



## huntinfool

[attachment=-1]uploadfromtaptalk1393701718716.jpg[/attachment]


----------



## huntinfool

As you can see the color did not come out as planned. Also it did not go on very smooth. My dad was brushing it on in the corners of the chines and I was rolling it over everything. I tried to go back over his brush marks, but I didn't get them all. I'm more concerned with the boat not leaking, which I believe I have accomplished.


----------



## Loony

Just ordered my SteelFlex from Fiberglass Supply Depot this morning. Great people to work with. Called him to correct my address and no problems. He called back later and was able to help me with getting the correct rollers to use. I feel like he didn't take advantage of someone who wouldn't know that he ordered the wrong type of roller. Instead he recommended the right roller to substitute.


----------



## -coaltrain-

What rollers did he recommend? Im about to lay some black steel flex on the bottom of mine. Thanks


----------



## Bugpac

I recently bought some epoxy and steel flex from fiberglass supply. They were very helpfull. Recomended roller is short nap solvent resistant btw.


----------



## Bugpac

Oh a pic. Something a bit different from the norm. Its built from plywood. Sealed with 5 coats epoxy. 2 coats of steel flex. Front panel bolts on to make it water tight.


----------



## Cbausch

Hey anyone know how steel flex is long term? Also I'm tiring to find it with no luck anyone know where i can buy it?


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## BlakeRauch

Does anyone know what steelflex looks like with no color added. I didn't order pigment. I've read that it's cream colored and I've read its clear/cloudy. I plan on doing the bottom and sides of a 1542 flat bottom. Should I paint first then rough it up? Or is it a solid enough color that you won't even see what's underneath?


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## JustinS

I love steelflex, installed it on a buddies boat last summer. You can push the boat around on the trailer with one finger! 

Steelflex 9x-2000 on 14 foot jon boat: https://youtu.be/-RHWvmf1f8U


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## fiberglass

All the Fasco products that you can buy online. Fasco does not do online sales.

We are the main distributor for Fasco online.

https://fiberglasssupplydepot.com/Fasco-Epoxies.html


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## fiberglass

TTSam said:


> I just got off the phone with Fasco. Spoke with a nice lady but could not really understand her nor could she really help me. She gave me an email to send my order request but what I need to know is how much should I get. I was told 3 quarts is $47.00(this is the non teflon) and 1 gallon $107.00. My boat is 15 long and 5 wide. I just want to do the bottom and up the side say 8-10 inches. I have read that many have had plenty left over after multi coats. How much they bought, I have no idea. Any help would be appreciated.



A gallon will do about 100 to 120 sq feet.


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## cat tracker

Hello everyone, first post on the forums though I have been reading and using them a lot lately. Last week I started my own restoration project on a 1988 bass tracker 17 tx, I will start a thread soon with all my progress and pics. 

So here is my question. I am about to order steel flex to coat the bottom with, I do a lot of fishing on the Missouri River. Should I order the basic 9000 or the slick stuff. If I order the basic will I need to paint it to get a black bottom or is there an additive to get a black. Or do I paint over it?

Also my plain as of now is to put some g flex over some of the rivets prior to applying the steel flex, will I have any issues withe the performance and adhesion of the steel flex if I do this?


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## sdm111

There's tints you can buy to color it. Painting would be pointless and its thick enough imo that you would not have to put anything on the rivets prior


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## cat tracker

ok so I received my steelflex ( I went with the slick stuff). I have the boat sand blasted, what is the consenses on the best way to apply the stuff???


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## sdm111

If I were to do it again in hindsight I would use a trowel to spread it out and a stiff paint brush for the edges. And a second person for oh crap moments


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## cat tracker

sdm111 said:


> If I were to do it again in hindsight I would use a trowel to spread it out and a stiff paint brush for the edges. And a second person for oh crap moments



ic ic what about the initial coat, should I just roll on a thin coat? and how long should I let first coat dry before putting on the heavy coat?


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## Glades

Well after reviewing all these pages and posts here and in a lot of other forums I put the steelflex superslick on the bottom on my 14x36 jon boat w pods.
Prepped everything per all the posts.
I got my 4" foam rollers and per one post I read (don't remember who but thanks a LOT) I got a 10" squeegee from Home depot and pulled the rubber piece out and cut it in half and slid it back in to the frame so it would fit between the ribs. 
I decided to do a test of the stuff so this morning I took about a tablespoon of each part, mixed it up and pored it on the one pod. I used the squeegee to spread it and then lightly brushed it (I didn't want to hit that small area w a dry roller).
It spread pretty nice and it was good to see the consistency of the mixed product.

So earlier this afternoon I got my wife to help me. I mixed 1 quart (1 pint of each) and set at it. I poured small ribbons of the mixed product on the hull on the space between the ribs one at a time. 
Then I used the squeegee to spread it. THAT works AMAZING!!!! I read of others using a trowel but the flex in this was perfect.

So I spread it on the length of each section and my wife followed up with the roller making it even and also doing the raised ribs.
I went up the sides about 2" and only about half way up the front slope.
It took us 25 min and I only used that one quart and presto, we were done!
Having 2 people I think made this a pretty easy job.
Thanks to everyone's suggestions. Hopefully this may help others.
LT


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## Bigtuna19

Will steel flex plug small cracks and seal small weeping rivets ?? And is just one coat enough protection I'm curious ?? I use the boat in the salt water mainly bays and coves


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## Johnny

Welcome Aboard, Tuna !

this is a photo of the bottom of my aluminum boat with solid rivets.
the SteelFlex was applied over the existing rivets before I bought it.
I have no idea if they leaked before the SteelFlex or after.
so - it really depends on how much flex you have in your hull and
how rough any previous owners pounded it in rough waters.
IMHO - all leakers should be fixed (rebuck the rivets) prior to application of any bottom coating.
Dale recommends the G/Flex-650 epoxy made by West System and
our local Motor Guru (Pappy) recommends Super Glue to slow leakers prior to any coating.
and others have recommended Gluvit for the interior sealing process.
jus my Dos Centavos





.


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## DaleH

Bigtuna19 said:


> Will steel flex plug small cracks and seal small weeping rivets ?? And is just one coat enough protection I'm curious ?? I use the boat in the salt water mainly bays and coves


I'd use the G-Flex 650, only $20 for a 2-part 4-ounce (each bottle) kit around here (Nor'East US). You will only be mixing a capfull of each to do a ton of rivets. Use a little heat, as shown in link below, to allow it to weep in. 

Not only is this a more co$t effective way to do what YOU need, you can get it locally and it stays adhered even when flexed. 

See: https://www.forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=40954

I have a few embedded links in there, so look at all of them, as one specifically addresses patching holes. 

*Be aware* all epoxies (less special mixes) are prone to degradation to UV exposure, so topcoat it if you can. On the bottom, I just clean off the anti-fouling paint well (if used) make the seal and top-coat with new paint. But I moor my boats 24/7, so they need the AF paint.


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## Big-D

*Ok, everyone. I have a 21 foot bayrunner that needs help. It has a lot of saltwater corrosion and pin holes. I am retired and on a fixed income so I thought I would patch the holes then coat the bottom of the boat to the water line with Flex Coat. What are your thoughts? I have been told to weld it but I looked into it and it was way to expensive. so I am looking for other options, and ideas? *


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## BAY BEAGLE

Read the Thread all the way threw. Tons of quality information, and helpful tips. Still going with my plan, less the "super slick" on the bottom - Changing up, & going with the steel flex for both interior and exterior. The squeegee idea, and two people to take on the task, along with 10 oz. increments measuring was very helpful. Working on the pigment color is still being evasive to me, but will nail it down shortly. Looking for the "Dessert Storm" background color for my pigment. 
Now doing the homework on GLUV IT for the interior. 
Thanks a bunch!!!!!


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## BAY BEAGLE

I have not pulled the trigger; regarding applying "steel flex". Still preparing the boat and temperatures went south on me.
A question that has been asked multiple times in this thread, but never answered......
"CAN YOU PAINT OVER STEEL FLEX" ....... example: adding camouflage, using stencils over STEEL FLEX -

Thanks .....


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## BAY BEAGLE

Here is the scoop, in regards to adding a stencil paint job over steel flex.
You will need to lightly scruf the steel coat with 200 grit, to knock the sheen off, wipe down ........ and add your stencil paint.
Per Jose at Steel Flex .......


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