# JetJon Conversion - SeaDoo SP into 1236 Fisher



## painlesstom (Dec 5, 2012)

New member here, so hello to everyone.

Long story short, I've spent the past year coming up with solutions to problems with the Mokai jet boat and now that I've accomplished that and have nothing left to do but use mine, I got pretty good at fishing for Catfish. Now I want a little bit bigger boat so I can catch more, go faster and farther, while having the option to take a friend along once in a while. I prefer jets since my river has shallow parts, and lots of fallen trees etc.. 

So I started planning my FrankenJon boat.... And the adventure has begun.

These are some of the pictures up to my current progress, I look forward to everyone's comments. :mrgreen:


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## JMichael (Dec 5, 2012)

Subscribed. I love to watch the progression of unique projects like this.


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## painlesstom (Dec 7, 2012)

Made some more progress. Finished laying down the fiberglass and got the motor and pump installed. 

Since I planned on using the stock Seadoo steering helm, I took an old set of drag bars from my Harley days and cut them in half to make my steering stick. Perfect length and a nice slight angle forward. 

Problem came about since I am mounting the steering assembly backwards from it's original orientation made the steering response opposite.. So I had to pull it all apart and re engineer the whole assembly so right is right, and left is left. Made up an aluminum brace to tie the bracket back together. 

Steering stick will use the stock Seadoo throttle and I'll be adding a momentary contact thumb switch on the end which will start and stop the motor. 

Still haven't decided where I want to put the fuel tank, so many different ways to skin a cat.... 

Seat is balanced for the picture, but pretty much where I intend on mounting one.


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## JMichael (Dec 7, 2012)

How many HP is that motor and what sort of speed do you expect out of the boat when finished?


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## PSG-1 (Dec 7, 2012)

Nice work, sir! :mrgreen: Don't know how I missed this when you posted it a couple of days ago, but anyhow, here I am!

I always enjoy reading these jet jon threads and seeing photos. Looks like you're doing it with no welding involved, and that makes this a good informational thread for those who want to build jet jons, but may lack the welding and machining equipment.

As to the question about the engine, it appears to be a 717 cc Rotax engine, like what is used in the speedster jetboats. With that engine in a 12 foot boat, you should see speeds of around 40-45 MPH, maybe even faster, as that boat is pretty lightweight from all appearances.

Keep us posted, and if you need any info as to control cables, or even how to make a weedless grate, check out my aluma-jet build.


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## painlesstom (Dec 8, 2012)

Thanks. Between bolting everything together with 30 stainless 1/4-20 screws using polyurethane, and reinforcing the whole area with fiberglass, I am confident there won't be any leaks or movement to alloy any to develop. 

The motor is the small 587 Rotax, 55 hp. I'm not worried about warp speed, 30-35 mph is what I'm expecting to see, I probably will only cruise at 25 anyhow. Less power usually equates to lower maintenance, longer life, and better fuel mileage. Time will tell, as always.

I will be using aluminum angle to frame out over the engine area for a 1/2" plywood deck, the fuel tank will probably get mounted inside what was the middle bench. That will help keep some weight forward. So far, I would be willing to bet the entire boat is still lighter than the jet ski was, before I chopped it up.

PSG-1, I have looked at your aluma-jet before, nice job. I thought I started with a rough Jon, you brought yours back from the grave! 

I have welding and machining capability, I just don't have the means to weld aluminum. The aluminum angle for the frame work will get bolted together, makes things easier if engine work is later necessary. So what I'm doing can be duplicated by anyone with a sawzall, a drill and a tape measure, with regards to joining the two hulls together anyhow. Measure three times and cut once... 

I'm still contemplating the need for reverse, not sure if it would be worth the effort yet. It comes in handy on my 14' Sea Rayder w/ sport jet 90, it's also a much bigger and heavier boat though. Some feedback on this would be appreciated from those who have built one of these boats.


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## PSG-1 (Dec 8, 2012)

painlesstom said:


> Thanks. Between bolting everything together with 30 stainless 1/4-20 screws using polyurethane, and reinforcing the whole area with fiberglass, I am confident there won't be any leaks or movement to alloy any to develop.




Sounds like a good plan, build it good and strong. As long as it's done this way, the cut-and-splice method works, and saves a LOT of time, when compared to the all-out fabrication method like I used to do my boat. I shudder to think of the total hours I spent on my boat :shock: My girlfriend was starting to get jealous of the boat for a while. That is, until she rode in it, and saw how much fun it was...almost like the 14' Sea Doo speedster we used to have, but better! 






> The motor is the small 587 Rotax, 55 hp. I'm not worried about warp speed, 30-35 mph is what I'm expecting to see, I probably will only cruise at 25 anyhow. Less power usually equates to lower maintenance, longer life, and better fuel mileage. Time will tell, as always.



Heck, I didn't know they made engines smaller than the 717. But based on that, yeah, your estimate of 30-35 MPH is about right. One good thing about the smaller engines is that they are easier, and much less expensive, to rebuild. Not to mention being light enough that 1 man can install or remove it by themselves, without too much trouble.





> I will be using aluminum angle to frame out over the engine area for a 1/2" plywood deck, the fuel tank will probably get mounted inside what was the middle bench. That will help keep some weight forward. So far, I would be willing to bet the entire boat is still lighter than the jet ski was, before I chopped it up.




Probably so, and that's a good thing, too. While I love my jetboat, fact is, that sucker is HEAVY, like 1200 lbs. So, if I screw up and ground it, I'm not going to be able to drag it off by myself, or even with the help of someone else. Which is why I carry a come-along and lots of rope when I go on the narrow inland rivers. That way, if I make a mistake, I can hook to a tree, and winch myself off the shoal. Never had to do this yet, and hopefully never will, but there's always a chance! So, this is where a lightweight jetboat comes in real handy, especially when exploring unknown areas that don't have much traffic. 







> PSG-1, I have looked at your aluma-jet before, nice job. I thought I started with a rough Jon, you brought yours back from the grave!




Well, thank ya! :mrgreen: It was a labor of love, to say the least. But worth every bit of it.





> I have welding and machining capability, I just don't have the means to weld aluminum. The aluminum angle for the frame work will get bolted together, makes things easier if engine work is later necessary. So what I'm doing can be duplicated by anyone with a sawzall, a drill and a tape measure, with regards to joining the two hulls together anyhow. Measure three times and cut once...
> 
> I'm still contemplating the need for reverse, not sure if it would be worth the effort yet. It comes in handy on my 14' Sea Rayder w/ sport jet 90, it's also a much bigger and heavier boat though. Some feedback on this would be appreciated from those who have built one of these boats.



Reverse is nice to have. Not just for reverse, but if you like to fish by trolling, the reverse gate works like a trolling plate on an OBM, only, the range of adjustment is infinite, from full ahead, to full astern. Also, it's nice for when you come in to the dock, or you're trailering the boat, so you can 'crab' the boat into position, instead of having to cut the engine off right before you get to it, then scramble to keep from hitting something.

If your jet pump is not equipped with a reverse gate, don't worry, you can get one that mounts onto the ski/boat, instead of mounting to the jet nozzle, like mine is. You'll want the reverse gate from a Sea Doo Speedster jetboat, or something like what's used on the Yamaha VX110. 

All you have to do is make a set of brackets that come off the hull, for the gate to mount to, then, run a Teleflex CC633 series control cable, and make a shift lever like the simple levers used on my boat.

Hope this helps!


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## painlesstom (Dec 8, 2012)

I'd thought about using the nozzle from a Yamaha SJ650 which has a reverse bucket, adapting it to the Seadoo pump wouldn't require too much work. When I asked about opinions on reverse, I didn't even think about having neutral, something I've taken for granted. I make a clutch for the Mokai jet boat, so when I let off the throttle the pump stops (air cooled motor). Since I won't have that option in the jet jon, a reverse gate is going to be a must as neutral is a necessity for me. I've got the complete Yamaha nozzle, also have a few jet ski's I got to part out. So cables etc.. I have in abundance. 

As far as motors smaller than the 717, Seadoo also made the 657 in addition to the 587 I have. I also have a '95 XP with the 657x with dual carbs and VTS. 

Forgot to post the chop chop video of my donor Seadoo. Enjoy 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EiFQUaetnJw


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## PSG-1 (Dec 8, 2012)

Cool video! Brings back memories of when I started on my jetboat, way back in 2005.

I also checked out a couple of your other videos in the mokai....that is a cool little boat right there! :mrgreen: 

Now ya got me thinking on my next jetboat, maybe I should build something smaller, instead of bigger or equal to what I have. I'd love to have a small lightweight, haul-ass jetboat that's about like a jet ski, small and light enough one man can beach it and drag it off, yet, it has the advantages of a boat, like being able to ride and stay dry.

Something like a jet ski kayak or canoe is what I'm thinking, in fact, we've tossed that idea around. 

But maybe with an aluminum hull, and UHMW plating to make it seaworthy for the fall line and farther inland on SC's rivers, instead of plastic or fiberglass.

I own a Yamaha Superjet (stand up jet ski) but my sciatic is getting so bad, I can't have fun on it like I could when I was 20, if I have fun, I pay for it with pain for a few days. 

[eyeballing SJ from across the yard, looking at recipro saw] "Hmmmmm." :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: 

Nah, I don't think I can bring myself to do it, the ski is in too good of shape, not a stress crack anywhere, and that's EXTREMELY rare for me, I break every jet ski I own.

BUT, I think something like the SJ (engine size-wise anyhow) would be a good candidate for a project like that. Or maybe even an old Kawasaki 550, there's tons of those floating around.

I see another jet project in my near future.................


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## painlesstom (Dec 10, 2012)

Steering helm conversion has been completed and securely mounted. It now operates backwards from it's original position and I'm glad that part is done... 

Deck frame work is almost completed as well. I will be using 1/2" plywood and it will be one piece hinged at the rear so It can function as a hood as well. The center area over the motor will have a separate cover I'll be making from fiberglass which will also be on a hinge with a latch, it will be attached to the deck so it will follow the deck when opened or it could be opened by itself.

Fuel tank is going to be mounted where it's seen in the picture. I will be building a console that will cover it and give me a place to put my filler cap, GPS, cupholder, windshield etc..

PSG-1 - The Mokai is the ultimate for getting to otherwise inaccessible areas. It's light, air cooled, the pump can be removed with no tools for cleanout. It's not going to break any speed records (12-15mph), but it will sip fuel like nothing else you own. I get roughly 25 mpg, and the tank is just shy of 3 gallons. I get many fishing trips out of a tank. 

Let me know when you start your next jetboat.


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## painlesstom (Dec 14, 2012)

Started planning out what I want to do with the deck area. Haven't decided if I want one big cover on a hinge with a smaller engine cover attached with it's own hinge.. or if I'm going to split it up so each side, rear, and engine cover open independently. 

Started work on the console and got it mounted to the seat. Need to get some Lexan to build the windshield next. The floor under the seat is housing the fuel tank, I put 3 layers of fiberglass down to reinforce that area so the fuel tank is better protected and put a thick rubber mat under the tank so there won't be any concern about rub through. Will use the rubber hold down straps to secure it along with the oil tank.

It's getting heavier, but I can still pick it up, so it's staying within expectations so far.


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## PSG-1 (Dec 14, 2012)

It's looking good! Cardboard is a great item for doing mock-up work, as shown in the photo where you're working on the cowling/rear deck.

The access to the engine can be done either way you're talking about. It's really a matter of personal preference. If it were me, I'd make it a one-piece lid. Then it should be strong enough to stand on it.


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## painlesstom (Dec 16, 2012)

Thanks, cardboard is the lazy man's tape measure. lol One piece deck made more sense to me too.

More finished on the console, starting to look like something I can mount a windshield to. The top of it I made from HDPE, as well as the bracket for the oil filler neck. Got the deck cut out and the hinge mounting planned. Little bit closer. Would have gotten more done, but had some fishing to indulge in.


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## JMichael (Dec 17, 2012)

Is that a 2 cycle motor with oil injection or is there some other purpose for the oil tank?


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## PSG-1 (Dec 17, 2012)

Starting to take on some shape, now! Looks good with that rear deck, that'll be a great fishing/casting platform. 8)


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## PSG-1 (Dec 17, 2012)

JMichael said:


> Is that a 2 cycle motor with oil injection or is there some other purpose for the oil tank?




I believe that's an oil injection tank. 

If it were me, I'd do away with that, install an oil pump block-off plate, and run pre-mix. Then you never have to worry about the synchronization/calibration of the oil pump being correctly dialed in, or the potential for an oil pump failure. The only drawback is if you do a lot of idling, it will load up the plugs and foul them quicker than with a VRO system.


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## painlesstom (Dec 17, 2012)

Yup, oil injection is what the tank is for. Done a lot of reading about the Seadoo injection system and have come to the conclusion that any problems have come from lack of maintenance of the injection hoses that run from the pump to the engine. The factory paints the hoses with the motor so nobody pays any attention to them. I put new hoses on mine and made sure it was bled well, going to keep it like it is for now so I don't have to deal with pre-mixing.. I ran it while it was still a ski and it all worked great, 40 mph. 

The deck is going to work out well, I can stand on it no problem. It's very solid. 

Started on the windshield today and finished bending the top of the console.


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## JMichael (Dec 17, 2012)

So I'm guessing the console is short enough that you can see over it while seated, or do you plan to have the steering handle long enough to be able to steer while standing?


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## painlesstom (Dec 17, 2012)

I can see the bow, and part of the front bench, while sitting down and am still able to fully articulate the steering stick. The console isn't as tall as it might appear.


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## painlesstom (Dec 18, 2012)

Today I got the neutral and reverse situation figured out. I had picked up an older JS 650 Yamaha jet ski in the beginning that had a reverse bucket as part of the steering nozzle, so I adapted that to the Seadoo pump. When I decided not to use that ski for this project, I went ahead and tore that nozzle assembly down and restored it, powder coating it all, so I could stick it on Ebay later. Glad I had done that since it looks so perfect on the back of the boat now. Had to make up a longer rod end for the steering cable so it would reach. Used the Yamaha steering cable for the reverse bucket, had to make some adjustments to shorten the end that went to the nozzle. The Yamaha control section got fitted to the console, the lever operates smoothly with strong detents at each end of travel. I plan on marking the area of the control for where I anticipate neutral to be, so I can take it apart and add a dip for the detent ball to hit so I won't have to hold the handle in the neutral position.

I also got much of the fuel line routed and got the water separator mounted. Made a fuel tank vent from a stainless bolt I drilled down the center and then drilled the side of the head till it met in the middle. Getting to the point now that I'm seeing the need to get it registered so I don't have that holding me up for the maiden voyage.


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## PSG-1 (Dec 19, 2012)

It looks cool with the OD green nozzle. Is that zinc chromate primer, or is that paint?

Anyhow, I see you ran into some of the same issues I did with cable travel and set-back. I had to add extension brackets to my pump the first time around. When I re-did the boat with the 4 stroke, I re-did a big part of the pump tunnel, and in the process, I made sure to get the set-back exactly right, now I don't have to use extensions, or modify the cables or brackets. The cable system will work either way, modified or not, as I ran mine like that for about 6 or 7 years, but I like being able to simply replace a part without having to modify it.


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## painlesstom (Dec 19, 2012)

Thanks, I'm set up for powder coating and that is what I did with the nozzle and reverse bucket. Tough stuff that even tolerates salt rather well when done right. 

The issue with cable lengths wasn't really too much of an issue. The Seadoo steering cable didn't have to get modified, I just made a longer rod end section. The reverse cable took a few minutes to cut a couple inches off and re-thread, easier to do that then try to figure out how to shorten the pump... The only thing I did to the Yamaha nozzle was to drill another hole for the steering cable to bolt to, this increased the travel of the steering. The Seadoo pump needed some work for the Yamaha steering nozzle to fit over it though, that isn't a part one would typically have wear out and need to replace. Since I'm using the Seadoo hull and pump, with a Yamaha Waveraider nozzle and Yamaha Waverunner trim cable, there wasn't any way to get around modifying it to work as my reverse cable. I probably could have bought one the right size, but it was too easy for me to tweak the one I had. (The Waveraider reverse cable was shot) I did add detents to the handle assembly so it will hold the nozzle just enough to give me neutral. I dubbed this thing FrankenJon for a reason, I've used 4 different skis for parts so far. lol 

Can't wait to get it in the water and see how well it all works together. Still lots of work left though...


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## PSG-1 (Dec 19, 2012)

Lots of work left, but you've tackled one of the most difficult aspects of it, the installation of the pump. The engine is the second hardest task. Everything beyond that is fairly straight forward, though.


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## painlesstom (Dec 22, 2012)

Personally the Engine and pump have been the easy parts so far. lol It's all the details that eat up the time in figuring out the console and making sure everything is going to work right and last.

I did get some more finished on the console. I reversed the geometry of the reverse control, and added detents where I wanted them, so 
Forward - Neutral - Reverse have their own click. Looks very factory, I'm really happy with how it turned out. 

Finally got my seat and got it mounted on a hinged based I made, so it will fold forward and away from the deck so I can raise it, or the engine cover. 

I got the engine cover started, the basic shape is done that I will build up and level out with some more fiberglass. This is one areas I don't have much experience with so it's been pretty tedious. Luckily it won't be a load bearing item, only a cover, so I'm confident it will work out just fine.

Made up the windshield too, which completed the console. Just need to trim out the back side and it will be finished.


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## JMichael (Dec 22, 2012)

The blue plastic is the shape/mold for the fiberglass engine cover? If it is, isn't the seat going to hit that when you put the seat back in the up position?

Nice looking windshield. I go under too many low limbs to have something like that. LoL


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## painlesstom (Dec 22, 2012)

Thanks, windshield should work nice for where I'll be using it. Plenty of low limbs around here too, but those are the places I take my Mokai.

The seat has 1" clearance to the engine cover, it won't hit it. 

This is the initial shell of the cover, I will have better pics in a couple days.


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## JMichael (Dec 22, 2012)

Looking good. How are you venting heat/gases from the engine compartment?


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## painlesstom (Dec 23, 2012)

Thanks. Both sides of the stern where the deck is cut at the angle, the space between the tubing will allow exit ventilation. I will be putting vents on the front panel that closes in the deck area under the seat. There will be twice the airflow allowed, compared to what the jet ski offered.


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## Mizzie (Dec 23, 2012)

Always wanted to do a jet jon but the fiberglass to aluminum bond always worried me... Seems like you got it done! I can't wait to see how this turns out. Subscribed!


-Mike


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## PSG-1 (Dec 23, 2012)

JMichael said:


> Nice looking windshield. I go under too many low limbs to have something like that. LoL




Sometimes, I don't even have to go under limbs. In fact, yesterday, I was running through the marked channel of the flats. It's marked with 3/4 PVC poles. In the "S-curve" of the flats, there's a PVC pole that leans over, and when I made the sharp turn...SMACK! The pipe hit the windshield with a loud bang, but since the glass is lexan, it didn't even leave a mark. 

I'm glad there's a windshield there, if that pipe had hit me in the head, it would have definitely gotten my attention. :shock:


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## PSG-1 (Dec 23, 2012)

painlesstom said:


> Thanks. Both sides of the stern where the deck is cut at the angle, the space between the tubing will allow exit ventilation. I will be putting vents on the front panel that closes in the deck area under the seat. There will be twice the airflow allowed, compared to what the jet ski offered.




Are you going to put cowling scoops over the top of those vent holes in the transom? If it were me, I'd have one facing forward, and one facing rearward, and build them in a manner that water has to be a couple of inches deep before it will enter those scoops. 

Reason being, if you get out on the water and start doing spins or doughnuts, etc, or if you get in rough conditions, or there's a large boat wake, water can come over the transom, and flood the engine compartment. 

Having one facing forward will feed fresh air in to the engine compartment, and having the one facing toward the rear will allow some of the heat from the engine to vent out, as the cooler you can run an engine, the better. If you do this, then you don't have to cut any ventilation holes in the front of your cowling. Putting a hole in the front means more noise right behind the operator, something you don't really want. Also, if you line the engine compartment with egg crate foam, it will make a HUGE difference in the sound levels.


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## painlesstom (Dec 24, 2012)

Thanks for the good advice. I'm not too worried about water coming in though. The river I run on is calm and the traffic is very little, many times I won't even see another boat while out. I also have a 800 gph bilge pump on an auto switch in addition to the dual pickups the pump has. The only time I've taken on water from my other boats, was from getting in or getting stuck in a storm. 

The egg crate foam is a good idea, and something I will look into when I get it running if feel the noise is going to be an issue. 

Update for today.

Made some more progress and things are starting to take shape so all you guys can see what I have been seeing in my head all this time. Engine cover turned out pretty good I thought, for being the first fiberglass part I've ever made. I will say that if I had known how much I was going to end up spending on the materials... well, I would have done something different I think. Wasn't cheap, but it worked out well in the end. 

I put a peg on the cover that sits in a hole in the deck to prevent side movement, I also put pins on the back legs of the seat that engage the engine cover so, again, no side movement allowed. I used a rubber hold down fuel tank strap from one of the donor ski's to secure the cover to the deck so it is held when I open the deck. I still have to add some stop cables to each, to limit travel. Getting closer.

Some fuel and oil lines to finish up, and then the electrical stuff. I still have to put together a trailer for it... I'm seeing the light at the end of this tunnel, but it's still a ways off yet.


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## PSG-1 (Dec 24, 2012)

VERY nice fiberglass work! Much better than I could do, for sure....LMAO you wouldn't want me doing that. My fiberglass work is mediocre at best.

I can see it coming together now, it's looking good. That's going to be a nice boat when it's done. =D>

As for the egg crate foam, the stuff you really want to use is available from McMaster-Carr. You want the good stuff that's made for this purpose, not the egg crate foam used on bed mattresses.

For enough to line an engine compartment, it will cost you around 80-100 dollars, including shipping. But you do get what you pay for, again, this is an industrial grade foam, the same kind that jet ski manufacturers use to line the engine wells of jet skis. It will last a long time, and not break down like cheaper foam has a tendency to do, especially being embrittled by heat exposure in the engine compartment.


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## painlesstom (Dec 25, 2012)

Thanks, there was an immense amount of commitment and determination involved in that fiberglass. Thought it was never going to be done, finally was, and I can relax for a few now. lol

I've got an account with McMaster too, order from them regularly, so will keep them in mind for the foam. Thanks for the tip.

I hope it runs and handles as well as I'm expecting. Been trying to think everything through as much as possible, I'm sure a few things will need some tweaking. I'm fairly confident it will do what I'm looking for, fuel consumption is one aspect that is a big question mark though. Not sure what to expect. :shock: 

Merry Christmas to everyone! :mrgreen:


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## JMichael (Dec 25, 2012)

I've been wondering what it's gonna do fuel wise also. Like what sort of mpg you could get out of it if you baby it along just fast enough to stay up on plane.


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## PSG-1 (Dec 25, 2012)

The only way to know about fuel consumption, is to take the GPS on about 10 trips. Vary the throttle from idle, to cruising speed to WOT, try it alone, and then with passengers, try it in swift current/tide vs. no current/tidal movement. Run on some stretches of open-straight water, and then some stretches of winding river and hairpin turns.

Start with a full tank, noting exactly how much it takes to completely fill the tank, then, at the end of a trip, re-fill the tank and make a note of how many gallons it took, then average it out with the GPS track and trip log. 

Doing this will give you an AVERAGE fuel consumption rate. For instance, my jetboat gets about 5 MPG, or, burns approx 3 GPH, at average running speeds. With a 22 gallon capacity, theoretically, I could run about 100-110 miles, or run for about 7 hours before refueling. That's the absolute limit, which I'm not going to try.

Because, even with MPG and GPH info, you should always go by the 1/3 rule. 1/3 to go to the destination, 1/3 to return, and 1/3 for reserve. If you operate by this rule, you'll always be on the safe side. 

I rarely exceed 60 miles for the total distance traveled on any of my outings, because, first off, that's a pretty long boat ride, and second off, I've run out of gas on the water, and paddling sucks!


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## painlesstom (Dec 25, 2012)

I've got a 9 gallon tank, and the motor I'm using is rated at 5.5 gph at WOT @ 40 mph in the ski (7.2 mpg). I doubt I'd ever take a trip that totaled more than 40 miles. I'm hoping that I can get 10 mpg at a planing speed of 25 mph. That's my goal anyhow, hope it's close to reality. I have a Humminbird 385ci, so GPS is covered. 

The 1/3rd rule is good common sense, I don't like to paddle either. Also one of the reasons I mounted the fuel tank where I did, so I can see it. I've even thought about finding a small, air cooled, 2-3 hp outboard as a backup motor in case something mechanical got me stranded.


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## PSG-1 (Dec 25, 2012)

You could also plumb in a 3-way fuel valve, and have one of the ports with a QC fitting for a portable fuel tank, for a little extra fuel. 

However, if you do this, DO NOT squeeze the primer bulb when it's switched to the portable tank, you run the risk of busting seals of diaphragms in the pump by doing this, as jet ski carbs are a little different than OBM carbs.

To gain prime, you unsnap the QC, and press the ball on the fitting against the QC just enough to open the flow, then pump the bulb until some fuel flows, and then re-connect it.


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## painlesstom (Dec 29, 2012)

Yeah, I'm not a fan of primer bulbs. A good fuel system doesn't need them anyhow.

Holidays, weather, and a few orders slowed progress a little, but I finally got a change to get some more finished. It's down to the little details really. I got the steering stick finished with a start/stop switch and foam handle grip, looks like I bought it somewhere so I'm really happy with that. The lanyard switch and choke got mounted on the front of the deck too.

Framed up a area between the seat and console that will get covered with plywood that will cover the fuel/oil hoses and wiring. I plan on being able to start it again this weekend.

The deck and engine cover needed travel limiting cables. On the deck I ran the cables through pulleys that hook to springs on the transom, this causes them to draw the cables away from hot, or moving, parts when closed. 

I also finished bracing the seat base assembly and powder coated it, very solid now. 

Getting very close to making a walk around video so everyone can see things in more detail and how it all works together.

Wishing everyone a Happy New Year! :mrgreen:


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## painlesstom (Dec 31, 2012)

Some more finished today. 

Transducer mounted and head unit mount installed, I have fishfinder and GPS now. Couldn't go without a cupholder, I even hooked some tubing to the bottom and ran it down to the floor so it couldn't leak on my shelf. Oh, I finished the fuel system and fired it up today too! I love it when things work..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UQeevuvuBl8


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## PSG-1 (Dec 31, 2012)

Nice work! I checked out the video, as well. There's nothing quite like the sound of a jet john project being fired up for the first time, roaring to life!!

You're going to have a LOT of fun with that boat. =D>


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## painlesstom (Jan 1, 2013)

Thanks! I'm getting pretty excited about getting it out on the water, got it registered today in anticipation. Hoping to have it and the trailer ready within two weeks.

Got some more little details worked out today. I made a latch to hold the back of the seat so it won't hinge forward while I'm leaning forward, or while on the trailer. Also added lifting handles to either side of the deck, and the engine cover.


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## painlesstom (Jan 2, 2013)

Made a front seat mount and finished up some details with the jet pump bilge tubing bracket. A little wiring for the electric bilge pump and getting that mounted will be my next item to tackle. Light at the end of the tunnel is getting brighter and brighter.


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## bigwave (Jan 3, 2013)

That thing is starting to look KILLER =D> =D> =D>


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## painlesstom (Jan 3, 2013)

Thanks man, looking at it and hearing it run is getting me revved up. Got one step closer today too. Started cutting down the double jet ski trailer, to fit the Jon, and now it's 30" narrower. Width now from outside of the wheels, is 64". Still have to put new lights and wiring on, and gets the bunks installed and set. Have thought about painting it camo to match the boat, probably will. Surprisingly it didn't take too long from start to finish, only 4 hours, and in the rain at that! lol


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## JMichael (Jan 3, 2013)

Nice job, don't ya just love a porta band. :mrgreen: And it looks like it's not your first time to use a welder either.


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## painlesstom (Jan 3, 2013)

Thanks. Me and my porta band are good friends, and I have put a few miles of wire through my Miller Mig over the years. :mrgreen: 
Tools are a wonderful thing to have.


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## PSG-1 (Jan 3, 2013)

Yep, I immediately recognized those as MIG welds, definitely done with solid wire and CO2 shielding gas, as they're much too clean to be done with flux core MIG.

Looks like about 140 amps, at around 24 volts for those welds. 

Nice work, both on the welds, and the trailer! =D>


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## painlesstom (Jan 3, 2013)

=D> Yessiree, Miller 135 on 75/25 Co2 Argon with .35 solid wire and 3M Speedglass helmet. Had to spend alot of time grinding the zinc galvanizing off the frame though... Hate that stuff when welding.


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## PSG-1 (Jan 3, 2013)

painlesstom said:


> =D> Yessiree, Miller 135 on 75/25 Co2 Argon with .35 solid wire and 3M Speedglass helmet. Had to spend alot of time grinding the zinc galvanizing off the frame though... Hate that stuff when welding.




Yeah, galvanized is a real PITA to weld, not to mention the fumes are really bad for your health. I try to weld it outdoors when possible, but I have a Speedglass helmet with the battery powered ventilation/respirator pack for when I'm doing a lot of galvanized welding, or other hazardous locations like indoor gun ranges (lead) 

My Miller MIG is a Regency 250, with a Spoolgun, as well as the SP-22-12 'suitcase' wire feeder. Also have a Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC, and my road welder is a Trailblazer 251. 

Aaaah, the power of blue! :mrgreen: :mrgreen:


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## painlesstom (Jan 4, 2013)

Yup, glad I was outside and had the speedglass.. the ventilation pack is a lifesaver sometimes. I've often considered getting a spool gun rig for the ability to do aluminum, just haven't been able to justify the purchase yet. Maybe one day....


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## PSG-1 (Jan 4, 2013)

Spoolguns are almost a requirement to do aluminum, as it's a real PITA with a conventional MIG. The spoolgun itself is about 800 dollars, and then it has to have the power source, either a WC-24, or a WC-115. The WC-24 is about 350 dollars, I think the WC 115 is about 600 or so.

I'm using the WC-24 to run my spoolgun, as that runs off the Regency 250's amphenol plug. It will also run from the amphenol plug on the road welder.

But I often wish I had bought a WC-115 control box instead. With that, you don't have to run the amphenol from the machine, you plug it into any 110 volt power source, and tap off the positive lead from the welder. 

Amphenol extension leads are very expensive, regular extension cords aren't.


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## painlesstom (Jan 4, 2013)

Yup, I've looked into the guns and control boxes before.. Price for those items vs. the frustration they would provide trying to get a nice aluminum weld has been the brick wall I've been wanting to avoid. A friend of mine has a Syncrowave 180 TIG that's worked well for him doing aluminum, that is probably the route I would take if I ever decided to take the plunge into aluminum welding. Too bad it isn't as simple as steel... lol

It's sunny and to be in the 60's today, the river is up 7 feet and there are swamps to explore. Time to break out the Mokai and get some video. :twisted:


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## painlesstom (Jan 6, 2013)

Got the trailer finished up with LED lights, a new 1-7/8 hitch so it uses the same ball as the Mokai trailer. Made up a roller system for the winch strap and bow bumper, added an eyelet to the bow too. Got the anchor system put together as well, twist a knob to release and crank it to retrieve, really nice setup from Attwood. Parts to get the electric bilge system installed will be in this week, pretty much the last thing I have to finish I think.


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## PSG-1 (Jan 6, 2013)

That's a neat looking windlass system! My neighbor has a similar setup on his Dixie fiberglass boat.


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## painlesstom (Jan 7, 2013)

Think I've pretty much completed everything. I got a through the hull flush fitting from a Yamaha Waverunner, so I can easily hookup a hose to run the boat on the trailer without having to open the deck or engine hood. Got the bilge pump installed, auto float switch has constant power while a toggle on the console can turn it on manually. Doubt I'll ever need it, but I'd rather have it and not need it, then need it and not have it. I put together a keel roller support so the bow is supported at two points before the bunks begin. Hooked it up and pulled it down to my shop to show it off and see how the trailer pulled behind the truck, felt great. Saturday is the day I get it inspected by DNR for registration, so this week I'll spend by double checking everything and running it on the hose to make sure I haven't missed anything. Need to get some rod holders and storage compartments figured out too.


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## JMichael (Jan 7, 2013)

I'm guessing that you don't really intend on this being primarily a fishing boat but more of a "go riding" boat since the seats don't appear to swivel.


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## painlesstom (Jan 7, 2013)

I don't need swivel seats to fish, although the front seat does swivel, I don't cast fishing for Cats and with the bottom only 36" wide it wouldn't matter too much for me either way. I did make sure the drivers seat was fixed solid, don't want that swiveling around at WOT. So.. This is my Catfish boat, I'll no doubt do my share of riding the river with it too though. This weekend is going to take forever to get here... Can't wait to get this out for some trials.


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## TxTightLiner (Jan 8, 2013)

Hi,
That is a bada$$ boat for starters.
Very nice, I need one for duck hunting.
I like the anchor system where did you pick it up?
I am a big fan of catfishing, that and crappie is mostly all I fish for!
Cool paint job as well. Can you share with us how you painted it ?
Thanks keep up the good work!


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## painlesstom (Jan 8, 2013)

TxTightLiner said:


> Hi,
> That is a bada$$ boat for starters.
> Very nice, I need one for duck hunting.
> I like the anchor system where did you pick it up?
> ...



Thanks, I hope it runs as good as it's come together!

The anchor system is made by Attwood and I got it from Walmart.. lol It does not come with the intermediate pulley, you will have to acquire one separately. I made a similar setup for my Mokai, it really helps being able to retrieve the anchor quick when your in a current. 

The paint job is really easy. Prep the boat and spray it all olive green, then get a palmetto frond and while holding it up to the boat dust it with khaki paint, follow up with a maple leaf or fern with brown if desired. I stuck with just the palmetto on the Jon this time. This video shows me painting my Mokai, you'll see how easy it is. https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Bc0m48p2aSY#!


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## painlesstom (Jan 8, 2013)

Walk around video =D> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OKnci-xQJBo


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## PSG-1 (Jan 8, 2013)

Very nice work!! =D> 

If you want to cut down on the sound levels a little more, try installing rubber skirting around the pump tunnel, where the exhaust is contained. Like this:










To show it in better detail, click this, and skip to 4:25 on the video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gxxy3S_Fujc


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## painlesstom (Jan 8, 2013)

Thanks. I had read one of your other posts earlier about doing the flaps which I can see how it would create a secondary type of muffler chamber. Between that, and some foam in the engine compartment from McMaster, the sound could be dampened quite a bit I'm sure. I don't think I'll have any problem with the way it is though, remember I've spend the past year and a half in a Mokai, the Jon is almost certainly going to be much quieter. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=emwxTSetMDw


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## sams (Jan 9, 2013)

Nice job on the conversion. I have been wanting to do one of these for a while and its always great to see threads like this.

I would recomend against using the egg crate foam at all. As someone who quiets boats for a living I consider myself somehwat fo an expert on the subject. With a small gas engine you will get decent reduction from an absorption material such as egg crate foam , however even better foam formulation such as polyethers will break down rather rapidly when they live in a hot, moist area such as an engine room. A foam faced with a thin aluminized vapor barrier facing will provide similiar acoustic performance and last much longer. Using a seam tape similiar to the facing to seal the edges before installing will give you teh cleanest and most long lasting installation. 

If you want it really quiet and can tolerate some weight you can use a barrier conmposite. This will be a composite of 2 layers of foam with a barrier (usually mass loaded vinyl) in the middle. This material is manufactured by a number of companies and I belive that McMaster has such a product in their catalog.

The vinyl skirt around the exhaust is certainly a good idea. You could get into different muffler options as well, however, this is probably space and time prohibitive.

sam


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## TxTightLiner (Jan 10, 2013)

Sounds good!
Thanks for the info.
The guy I got my 1436 camoed it simailr to how you did.
I want to paint my outboard to match it, ill give it a shot once the rain clears up.


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## PSG-1 (Jan 10, 2013)

sams said:


> I would recomend against using the egg crate foam at all. As someone who quiets boats for a living I consider myself somehwat fo an expert on the subject. With a small gas engine you will get decent reduction from an absorption material such as egg crate foam , however even better foam formulation such as polyethers will break down rather rapidly when they live in a hot, moist area such as an engine room. A foam faced with a thin aluminized vapor barrier facing will provide similiar acoustic performance and last much longer. Using a seam tape similiar to the facing to seal the edges before installing will give you teh cleanest and most long lasting installation.




I had the aluminized material in the first configuration of my jetboat. In addition to being very heavy when compared to the egg crate foam, it did not have the sound dampening properties of the egg crate foam. I wasn't impressed with it at all, especially the price.

The material I'm currently using boasts a 75% noise reduction rate. Again, this is not the regular egg crate foam like they use on bed mattresses, this material is gray-black in color, and it's made to hold up to some heat. I haven't seen any signs of this material breaking down or crumbling.


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## painlesstom (Jan 11, 2013)

I will post in more detail later, in a rush at the moment. I did get out today finally. Other than some carb issues that kept me from getting as much water time as I'd hoped for, everything worked great. Handled and functioned perfectly, hull didn't mind going 35mph coming down river through my return wake. I'll post more later, here is the video for now. :mrgreen: 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gRMjgltqlqA


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## PSG-1 (Jan 11, 2013)

Awesome work!! =D> I know that was a good feeling, running the maiden voyage. 8)


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## painlesstom (Jan 11, 2013)

Thanks. It was quite a rush running up the river at 31mph, 35 coming back down. Definitely not the speed I will be cruising at, steering is very sensitive. I had drilled another mounting point on the steering nozzle arm to allow for faster reaction and more travel, I'm going to put the cable back on the stock location since I need LESS steering. This thing will turn on a dime just like a jet ski, without the getting wet part. I was very happy to see nothing leaked and that the hull showed no signs of flex, felt very solid. 

When I got home today I pulled the carb off and tore it down. Found lots of trash floating around the jets, and chunks of buildup under the needle seat that were breaking loose. After I got it all cleaned out and put back together, I fired it up and immediately noticed a difference in idle, and throttle response was instant. I've got to take it for registration inspection tomorrow and then work all day, so Sunday will be the next testing session. Will have more to share then. FRANKENJON LIVES!! hahahaha


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## PSG-1 (Jan 12, 2013)

Sounds like there was either trash in the fuel tank, or in the carbs, from sitting up for a while. You want to make sure you've got all that mess cleaned out. It can cause a lean condition. A lean condition at WOT equals a hole blown through a piston. I know, because I had it happen with the old 2-stroke Tigershark engine in my boat not once, not twice, not three or four times, but at least 1/2 a dozen times. That kind of thing gets expensive, not to mention very irritating.


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## painlesstom (Jan 12, 2013)

The carb was the source of the trash, I had cleaned the tank, water separator, new fuel lines and filter. The carb was the only thing I hadn't been through since it had run good in the ski. Then it sat with cut lines while I did the build, I'm sure stuff worked it's way in there. It's all clean now so tomorrow should be fun. I went with a Seadoo donor for the availability of parts that aren't very expensive, both OEM and aftermarket. I also like the pump design of the Seadoo over the Yamaha. I can only imagine what you went through with that Tigershark... I couldn't imagine rebuilding a motor 6 times in a row, something would have gotten shot after the 3rd time if it was me! lol I'm guessing that's why you went to the different "High Output" motor. You built a mean boat for sure. 8)


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## PSG-1 (Jan 12, 2013)

Yeah, when I think about the money I dumped into rebuilding that POS engine at 1500 dollars a pop (about 4 of the rebuilds were covered under a no-fault warranty), VS. spending 2500 dollars for the FXHO engine, it makes me sick to think about it.

Heck, I should have just went with the FXHO from the start, but then again, I did it the first time on a budget, not wanting to spend a lot of money because I wasn't sure if it would even do what I wanted. But after running it for about 6 years, and rebuilding the POS engine about once every 100 hours, I decided it was time to get a more reliable engine. And I definitely have that, I've taken this boat places I would have been afraid to go with the original engine, for fear of breaking down.


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## painlesstom (Jan 13, 2013)

You'd think the company would have helped figure out why they had to honor that warranty 4 times! Sounds like it worked out for the best though.

I had a blast on the water today, was out for a few hours this time. Other than an annoying off idle hesitation, she ran great. Old gas though, so some fresh will probably make a difference. 

Adjusting the steering geometry for a slower ratio helped stabilize things at high speed, 35mph is not a balancing act anymore. Comfortable cruising speed is 25-30. Going to make another steering stick that will let my wrist rest more naturally, right now it gets cramped up during extended runs. Hull still shows no signs of any problems, solid and leak free. Flex during high speed was something I was concerned about from reading others experiences from grafting hulls together, and the simple fact that Jon boats weren't designed to go 35mph. Really glad none of that has been an issue here. Boat is still very stable when going through wakes and choppy water, but it does get out of the water enough to unload the pump as you will hear in the video, luckily it's rare that I'd have to go through stuff like that. River is pretty calm here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dd4eheHMCg8


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## JMichael (Jan 14, 2013)

Looks like that is going to be the source of a lot of fun.


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## PSG-1 (Jan 14, 2013)

painlesstom said:


> You'd think the company would have helped figure out why they had to honor that warranty 4 times! Sounds like it worked out for the best though.





Well, with the "no-fault" warranty from SBT, they don't ask questions, they rebuild it at no cost, regardless of what caused the failure. And that's for a period of 2 years! I paid twice out of pocket to have the TS900 rebuilt. Then, I took a TS1000 engine out of my girlfriend's jet ski that had blown up, and paid to have it rebuilt, and put it in my boat (I bought her a Yamaha VX110 to replace the TS) So, those 3 rebuilds added up to about 4500 dollars. Again, it makes me sick to think about it.  

With the engines in my boat, every time there was a failure, it was a hole through the top of the center piston. And not really knowing much about how to tear down and re-build an engine, I sent it off every time, not realizing I probably could have pulled the head, and just replaced the piston....d-oh! #-o 
Sure, that would have cost me a couple hundred dollars in parts, but at least I could have gotten the engine up and running in 1/2 a day, and not have to pull it, strip down to the block, and pay 100 dollars every time to ship it to SBT.

Anyhow, I did figure out the cause of the failure....letting so-called 'mechanics' work on the carbs! When I got brave enough and decided to tear into the carbs on my own, I found the jetting was ALL screwed up, and the center jet was WAY too lean. Oh, that, and the rear spark plug wire being too tight, causing intermittent contact with the coil, causing it to mis-fire throughout the throttle range. No wonder it ran crappy!






> I had a blast on the water today, was out for a few hours this time. Other than an annoying off idle hesitation, she ran great. Old gas though, so some fresh will probably make a difference.






If you've been having the same weather we've been having here in SC, you had perfect conditions for boat riding! Almost 80 degrees here Saturday, we beat the old 1949 record. And to think two years ago, it was so cold here, I was running my snowgun almost every night, we had it piled up over 8 feet high in the backyard!





> Adjusting the steering geometry for a slower ratio helped stabilize things at high speed, 35mph is not a balancing act anymore.





I'll bet! This is why I went with a 270 degree helm for my steering, instead of a 135 degree. I didn't want it too squirrelly at high speed. But then I didn't have my cable set-back correct where it comes out the transom, and I had it jury-rigged with a bracket welded to the steering bracket, and with that setup, it lacked almost an inch of travel both ways. In other words, it had 1/2 the steering response it should have had. It worked, but not too good in a tight turn. More than one time, I ran into the marshgrass, LOL.
When I redid the boat with the FXHO, I set the cable just right, it only lacks 1/8" on either side. Now she turns fast! 






> Comfortable cruising speed is 25-30.




Yep, same here, it's about 30 for my boat, right at 7K RPM. With the TS engine, it was about 28 MPH at around 5400 RPM.





> Going to make another steering stick that will let my wrist rest more naturally, right now it gets cramped up during extended runs. Hull still shows no signs of any problems, solid and leak free. Flex during high speed was something I was concerned about from reading others experiences from grafting hulls together, and the simple fact that Jon boats weren't designed to go 35mph.
> Really glad none of that has been an issue here.





It's all dependent on how well you build the boat and use bracing. Structural components like inner hulls, front and rear decks, engine compartments, etc, help make it more rigid. Without proper structural bracing, the boat will flex like a beer can.




> Boat is still very stable when going through wakes and choppy water, but it does get out of the water enough to unload the pump as you will hear in the video, luckily it's rare that I'd have to go through stuff like that. River is pretty calm here.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dd4eheHMCg8





I watched that video, looks like a fun river to run on. And again, you had nice weather to do it, even in the middle of January!

ANY jet will cavitate when hitting wakes, whether it's a jet ski, jet boat, or a jet jon. Pump, impeller, and hull design can help minimize it, or in some cases, make it worse. It's best to go through waves/wake slowly, to keep the cavitation to a minimum, as it causes a lot of undue vibration, and a sudden unloading of the engine, letting it rev much higher (there is a rev limiter in the CDI to prevent over-revving) 

You could also insure better hook-up in light chop by using a Wet Wolf Adjust-a-Thrust pump cone, or even a top loader grate. Only problem with the top loader is that it's more suceptible to fouling, because of its design. I can't run one out here in the marsh, too much grass.

Anyhow, keep us posted! I want to see some video of the jet jon blasting over some shoals. :mrgreen:


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## painlesstom (Jan 14, 2013)

Made some carb adjustments, topped the tank off with fresh fuel, and saw how much fun this boat is going to be. Perfect day too, with partly cloudy skies and 80° temps! Love Georgia...  I couldn't be happier with the boat, other than to get it outfitted with rod holders etc.. I plan on doing lots of fishing out of this thing.

I don't have a tach for it yet, but top speed is 36mph so far. I'd like to wire a real tach to the motor, but haven't been able to find much info on how that would be done on the 96' MPEM, would also have to install an ignition switch so there would be a source for 12v switched power. Not sure I want to dig into things that much, might just go with a Tiny Tach later...

The cavitation doesn't bother me since there is a rev limiter, just going to try to keep it to a minimum since it can be hard on the pump. I don't mind going 25mph, doesn't seem to have any issue with it at that speed. On flat water I can fly though!

Also came to the conclusion that my trailer was too high, and the bunks were also too high. Had to back too far down the ramp to load and unload, so I swapped tires with my utility trailer (12" vs 15") which dropped everything 2". Then I took the bunks and laid them flat on their side and bolted them directly to the frame, that dropped the boat roughly 3". So now the boat is a total of 5" closer to the ground than before and shouldn't require backing down the ramp near as much as before. I hate having to put my truck wheels in the water, something wrong with that picture... lol Should pull nicer down the road with the center of gravity lower.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WST3uQHgfB4


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## PSG-1 (Jan 14, 2013)

To run a tach, you'll need to find the tach wire (usually green, but it depends on mfg.) and the 'ignition' wire (purple, as per ABYC codes, but again, it may vary with mfg.), as well as pulling a ground.


ANY tach should work with your engine, as it reads the 'tapping' (on/off of 12V+ signal sent by the crankshaft position sensor) You should be able to find a service manual for that engine, and it should show a wiring diagram or color code. If not, you'll have to do it by trial and error. 

Best way to do this is to use a multi-meter to find your + and - voltage, and if there is any doubt, use some jumpers with alligator clips, and then use small glass fuses that blow at 1 amp. This way, if you DO make a mistake, you pop a fuse, instead of a component in your CDI.

I ran a teleflex outboard motor tach with my Tigershark engine. But since the FXHO runs up to 10K RPM, I needed a tach that read higher than 7K, so, I got the actual factory tach that goes with the FXHO engine in the AR230 jetboat. And that WAS a trial and error kind of thing to figure out the 8 wires that run to the tach (3 of them are for indicator lights) Not only that, but there are no stud connectors on the FXHO tach like on a regular tach, it uses an 8-pin plug, which, BTW, I was not able to get, I had to make a multi-pin plug (that was a real bitch) 

So, if I was able to do it with that tachometer, you should be able to do it with your boat!


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## painlesstom (Jan 15, 2013)

Yeah, that's alot of work just to have a tach. When I was younger and in my muscle car days, a tach was the first thing I put on a car.. it was just necessary! LOL Now it's just a handy tool on occasion, but I can easily live without it. Speedometer is what is necessary now, which I have in my GPS, and that tells me plenty about the motor and pump. I'm just very glad that the past couple months of slaving over this boat has paid off, and everything worked out as planned. Now I've got people thinking I can build one for them too, I am not that energetic! .. lol I will say that if I had to to it all over again, I would. Can't say I would change much either, maybe go 14' instead of 12', but I'm very content with how it all worked out in the end. 

Now, we just need to figure out how to coordinate a JetJon gathering. :twisted: I often wonder how many boats are out there that have been built, and actually get used on a regular basis. I know there a plenty out there that were thrown together, or half finished, would be really cool to get a bunch of JetJon's together in one place to see all the different ideas that went into them.


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## bigwave (Jan 15, 2013)

A fine job, looks like a very fun ride. I can't wait to see some big ole cats on the deck. I watched the video, my favorite part is the very beginning, you have two boot prints on the deck....now your just missing the fishing poles. =D> =D> :beer: :beer:


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## fool4fish1226 (Jan 15, 2013)

That is one cool ride - Great job :beer:


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## PSG-1 (Jan 15, 2013)

painlesstom said:


> Now I've got people thinking I can build one for them too, I am not that energetic! .. lol I will say that if I had to to it all over again, I would.




I know what you mean. But I would actually like to get into building boats like this. One of the biggest hangups was the fact that it's such a one-off custom kind of thing, how the heck do you get it insured? No one will buy a boat that they can't get a warranty or insurance on. 

This past summer, I had a survey done on my boat, to assess its condition and value, for insurance. The value was placed between 8100 and 9300 dollars, and this is a 15 year old hull! Geico insured me for $11K. 

But more importantly, the survey, and the insurance proves that my boat meets or exceeds ABYC and NMMA standards. Which basically means if someone wanted me to build a boat like mine, and they were to ask "does it meet manufacturing standards?" I can show them the certification for my boat, and say "yes, it does." I think that's an important step in the process, for sure.

I envision a day that I can have no less than 2 or 3 of these boats in production at any time. And what would be even more cool would be to get a TV show on it, like American Chopper, except, we'd call it "American Jetboat" After all, I have appeared on the History Channel with Larry The Cable Guy. We actually did a version of American Jetboat, and put it on my youtube channel, but not really a lot of views, considering it's a year and a half old. I was hoping it would have caught on better than that. :? I guess people have a different idea of what constitutes 'entertainment' than we do. If it ain't honey boo-boo or dancing with the stars, it's not really considered entertainment for the masses. But I digress.






> Now, we just need to figure out how to coordinate a JetJon gathering. :twisted:





Hey, now you're talking!! That would be a cool event! Jet jon builders could show off their builds, and could share ideas, designs, improvements and modifications with each other, and we could have some races, blasting over shoals, running winding stretches of rivers, etc. I'd be on board for that event! :mrgreen: 






> I often wonder how many boats are out there that have been built, and actually get used on a regular basis. I know there a plenty out there that were thrown together, or half finished, would be really cool to get a bunch of JetJon's together in one place to see all the different ideas that went into them.



Not sure how many are in existence. I know there's at least 1/2 a dozen people on this board who have built a jet jon. I'm sure there are many more out there that we don't know about. Also, not sure how many 4 stroke configurations there are, so far, my boat is the only one I've seen with a 4 stroke. I'd like to see all the various designs and hull configurations, maybe I could even get a few ideas for future improvements and modifications. My boat has a lot of bells and whistles, but I'll bet someone out there has even more than me!

Anyhow, once again, great job on the build! =D> I know you're going to get a lot of enjoyment out of it. Like I said before, I've had more fun, and gone more places with my boat, than with all the other boats I've ever owned, combined.


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## painlesstom (Jan 15, 2013)

bigwave said:


> A fine job, looks like a very fun ride. I can't wait to see some big ole cats on the deck. I watched the video, my favorite part is the very beginning, you have two boot prints on the deck....now your just missing the fishing poles. =D> =D> :beer: :beer:



Thanks man, I'm looking forward to filling the bow with Catfish too. Nothing quite breaks in a new boat like some good ole' Catfish blood!! 



fool4fish1226 said:


> That is one cool ride - Great job :beer:



Thanks!!



PSG-1 said:


> I know what you mean. But I would actually like to get into building boats like this. One of the biggest hangups was the fact that it's such a one-off custom kind of thing, how the heck do you get it insured? No one will buy a boat that they can't get a warranty or insurance on.



And even if those hangups could be addressed, there is also that liability issue when some genus decides to sue because he didn't know how to operate the boat safely.. Would be fun to be able to build them though. I thoroughly enjoyed myself and am sorry the build part is coming to an end. Who knows, I might have to build another one some day.



> Anyhow, once again, great job on the build! =D> I know you're going to get a lot of enjoyment out of it. Like I said before, I've had more fun, and gone more places with my boat, than with all the other boats I've ever owned, combined.



I appreciate the pat on the back, thanks! There is nothing that can compare with building something, and then using it. I've built a few bikes, muscle cars and hot rods, and now this boat. I can say that the boat will be the most enjoyed, and appreciated, of any of my creations. It will help keep my freezer full of my favorite food!! 

Today I added a cup holder to the front bench so I had a place to put my drink while fishing. Also added a grab bar to the side of the console to make the trip from drivers seat, to bow, easier without worrying about getting hung up on the reverse lever (almost did a couple times, just a matter of time before I went swimming because of that).


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## PSG-1 (Jan 15, 2013)

painlesstom said:


> I appreciate the pat on the back, thanks! There is nothing that can compare with building something, and then using it. I've built a few bikes, muscle cars and hot rods, and now this boat. I can say that the boat will be the most enjoyed, and appreciated, of any of my creations. It will help keep my freezer full of my favorite food!!
> 
> Today I added a cup holder to the front bench so I had a place to put my drink while fishing. Also added a grab bar to the side of the console to make the trip from drivers seat, to bow, easier without worrying about getting hung up on the reverse lever (almost did a couple times, just a matter of time before I went swimming because of that).




Grab bars are nice. I have a couple on my boat, just for something to hang on to when moving about. Also helps with being able to get in the boat when it's on the trailer. 

I think you're already discovering that despite being 'done with the build', like me, you'll always be finding some improvement or modification to make, which means it's always an on-going project! :mrgreen: 

For instance, a couple of weeks ago, I re-did the stomp grate on my boat, made heavier duty tines that don't free-float, when retracted, they bottom out against the leading edge of the ride plate. Reason I did that was because with the free-floating design, a rock or other object hitting the tines could easily swing them up into the duct, allowing the object to go to the impeller, especially considering the only thing holding it was the teleflex cable.

And before that, it was re-locating my water strainer from below deck, to the area right next to the seat, so I can immediately glance down and see the condition of the cooling system, and be able to detect a clog from mud, sand, hydrilla, etc.

Of course, if you're like me, these little mini-projects are simply a means of passing the time until, hopefully, one day, we build another jet boat, using the improvements done to the existing one over the course of its life, as a blueprint for an equally awesome boat at some point down the road.


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## bigwave (Jan 16, 2013)

Of course, if you're like me, these little mini-projects are simply a means of passing the time until, hopefully, one day, we build another jet boat, using the improvements done to the existing one over the course of its life, as a blueprint for an equally awesome boat at some point down the road.[/quote]


Some point is now.......you guys blow me away with your mods.....I still say its time for a twin engine jet. :lol:


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## painlesstom (Jan 16, 2013)

bigwave said:


> Some point is now.......you guys blow me away with your mods.....I still say its time for a twin engine jet. :lol:



I saw a build here online of a twin jet ski engine boat, he got as far as getting the engines in but I never saw any further progress. 



PSG-1 said:


> I think you're already discovering that despite being 'done with the build', like me, you'll always be finding some improvement or modification to make, which means it's always an on-going project! :mrgreen:
> 
> Of course, if you're like me, these little mini-projects are simply a means of passing the time until, hopefully, one day, we build another jet boat, using the improvements done to the existing one over the course of its life, as a blueprint for an equally awesome boat at some point down the road.



Yes, that is how I am looking at it now. The never ending fun of refining and making improvements will keep me going for a while!


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## PSG-1 (Jan 16, 2013)

bigwave said:


> Some point is now.......you guys blow me away with your mods.....I still say its time for a twin engine jet. :lol:




I agree! :mrgreen: I just wish I had the money to start a project like that, today, because I'd already be in the shop, plugging away at it. 

Not sure what configuration, or what engine(s) I may use, but I already know I'm going to design it as a "fall line class jetboat"...meaning, a thicker hull, and UHMW on the hull, so it is capable of running above the fall line, where there are rocks, swift currents, etc. 

What I REALLY need to build is a presentation grade boat, specifically for the purpose of taking it to boat shows, and marketing it. I could probably use my existing boat, but it's harder to use a 15 year old hull for marketing purposes, than it is a brand new hull.


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## PSG-1 (Jan 16, 2013)

painlesstom said:


> PSG-1 said:
> 
> 
> > I think you're already discovering that despite being 'done with the build', like me, you'll always be finding some improvement or modification to make, which means it's always an on-going project! :mrgreen:
> ...




And there are a LOT of different mods that can be made. Here's a few ideas:

On a Yamaha pump, you could run a wash-down hose system from the pressure fitting on the right side of your pump (the one that normally shoots the tell-tale stream of water about 10 feet in the air on jet skis) Then have a QC system with a little coil hose in the boat. Of course, you have to be underway for it to have enough pressure to spray any water, but it works good for a little pre-cleaning of the deck before you go home. If you check out my YouTube video 'trout fishing on the aluma-jet' you'll see me using the wash-down hose at the end of the video, heading back to port.

You could install a set of prow lights. Those are nice for nighttime running, or coming in to the dock or landing.

You could install a water strainer for some added peace of mind, and go ahead and put it in a visible location, like I finally did.

You could also install an OBM water PSI guage at the console, this gives you an instant visual reference as to the condition of your cooling system. Even if you never run over shoals, sand, etc, you'll find that in the fall months, leaves on the river's surface can play hell with your cooling system, especially at idle. Hydrilla is even worse, I really hate that stuff.

Speaking of clogs, they can sometimes be bad enough to foul the impeller. And with no way to reverse prop direction like with an OBM, you can't just 'spin it off' Only option there is a stomp grate. Basically making a set of stainless steel tines for your grate, with a pivot point on the front end, and using a teleflex push-pull cable to swing it up and down on the rear end. Cutting off the engine, and opening this grate will usually clear any clogs to the pump. You may be able to run without the need for a stomp grate, but if you ever decide you need one, I have pics of that on my boat, as well, for reference purposes.

Those are just a few ideas for starters. But you can see what I mean. 

Even when it's "done", it's never really done. It's always a work in progress, like any custom project. :wink:


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## painlesstom (Jan 17, 2013)

PSG-1 said:


> You could install a water strainer for some added peace of mind, and go ahead and put it in a visible location, like I finally did.
> 
> You could also install an OBM water PSI guage at the console, this gives you an instant visual reference as to the condition of your cooling system. Even if you never run over shoals, sand, etc, you'll find that in the fall months, leaves on the river's surface can play hell with your cooling system, especially at idle. Hydrilla is even worse, I really hate that stuff.
> 
> ...



I had thought about putting a PSI gauge on my Sea Ray with the Sport Jet 90, ended up just adding a pee tube instead. Having a gauge on the Jon would be really nice though. On the strainer, I'd like to see pics of that. 

Would also be interested in seeing your stomp grate. I've just got the stock SeaDoo intake grate, which is plastic, and only three tines that wouldn't keep much out. I've been considering making, or just buying, another one that was aluminum and offered more protection from larger debris getting ingested. Incorporating a stomp grate into that would be a huge asset when the leaves are falling. I am very fortunate in that the Altamaha is a very clean river when it comes to rocks or grasses etc.. all of the debris comes from leaves, pine straw, and sticks. I would just like a grate that was closed enough to keep items large enough to damage the pump, from entering.

Start to finish build video -> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y93q2TQm8kA

Did a 10 mile round trip yesterday, and caught some nice Cats. You can see how the trailer and boat sit lower now too.


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## bigwave (Jan 17, 2013)

Now that is what I am talking about.....nice catfish.


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## PSG-1 (Jan 17, 2013)

painlesstom said:


> I had thought about putting a PSI gauge on my Sea Ray with the Sport Jet 90, ended up just adding a pee tube instead. Having a gauge on the Jon would be really nice though. On the strainer, I'd like to see pics of that.



No problem. Here ya go.....


Here you can see I've got it mounted to the starboard side of my seat. 



Initially I had it in the engine compartment, that meant having to pull the cowling every time I needed to clear the strainer. And not only that, but that was before having a PSI guage, which caused the Tigershark engine to run hot a few times (this could have also been an issue leading to its demise all those times)
Then, after installing the FXHO engine, with space so limited, I didn't want to have to dig in the engine compartment to clean the strainer, so, I moved it under the rear deck plate that covers the fuel tank. This still did not allow it to be easily accessed, or visible.






As you can see, now, there's no problem accessing it, or cleaning it, either.









> Would also be interested in seeing your stomp grate. I've just got the stock SeaDoo intake grate, which is plastic, and only three tines that wouldn't keep much out. I've been considering making, or just buying, another one that was aluminum and offered more protection from larger debris getting ingested. Incorporating a stomp grate into that would be a huge asset when the leaves are falling. I am very fortunate in that the Altamaha is a very clean river when it comes to rocks or grasses etc.. all of the debris comes from leaves, pine straw, and sticks. I would just like a grate that was closed enough to keep items large enough to damage the pump, from entering.




Ok, here ya go:







Here, you see the control handle (yes, that is made from bronze) in its downward position. When in this position, it extends the push-pull cable, which swings down the rear end of the grate, like so:








Those tines are made from 1/4 x 3/4" stainless flat bar. Notice how the back ends of the tines have a 'step' ground into them. This is to stop them against the leading edge of the intake duct, as shown in the next photo




Note how the step hits the leading edge of the duct when the grate is retracted. This is in case of a rock, or other object striking the tines, they cannot possibly bend upward and allow the object to pass through the duct and hit the impeller, which could have catastrophic results.

Before this modification, the tines were shorter, they stopped short of the leading edge of the duct. And since there are only 2 1/4" stainless cross-bolts holding the tines together (one is a pivot, the other ties them together) you could see how a rock or other object could bend that bolt, allowing the tines to swing up, or even break loose, and pass through the impeller!






And there's the handle in its upward, retracted position, which means the grate is closed. The control handle, as you can see is a simple lever, with a cross bolt and bracket, and then an attachment point for the control cable.


A couple of photos of the wash-down system:






It's located to the port side of my rear seat







This deck plate uses a QC system, which, when disconnected, shuts off the flow automatically. This fitting is connected to the tell-tale fitting on the right side of the Yamaha XL1200 pump (the one that normally is used to shoot the roostertail on jet skis)






And here's the nozzle and coil hose for the washdown.


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## painlesstom (Jan 17, 2013)

I like the screen filter and the wash down setups. Where did you get the QC and coiled hose? Looks very factory.

The grate looks like it would have some potential, not sure how just the grate moving would clear any debris though. I'm guessing you would shut the motor down, then work the grate handle to shake anything loose? I've seen other stomp grate systems where the articulating part of the grate was only half of the grate as a whole, that way if something became wedged between the tines, opening the grate would dislodge it. 

On your PSI gauge, where did you plumb it in at? And, what is the pressure reading you get? I'm sure there would be a difference between the main exit flow, and what would be "seen" at the tell tale (pee tube), if you have one.


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## PSG-1 (Jan 18, 2013)

painlesstom said:


> I like the screen filter and the wash down setups. Where did you get the QC and coiled hose? Looks very factory.



It's made by "Ocean Equipment" and I bought the deck plate and coil hose as a set, from West Marine. Normally, this would be hooked to a 12VDC pump, and a holding tank. But as I said, it can be hooked to the roostertail fitting on a Yamaha jet pump. You'll have to be on the throttle a little bit to actually have some flow, but that actually works good, as then you're planed out and the water will run off the deck, to the bilge, where it can be pumped overboard....that is, unless you've got a self-bailing deck, then it simply runs overboard. My next jetboat WILL have a self-bailing deck, I don't care if I have to jack it up 8-10 inches to make it happen, but it will be a self-bailer.






> The grate looks like it would have some potential, not sure how just the grate moving would clear any debris though. I'm guessing you would shut the motor down, then work the grate handle to shake anything loose?





Correct. Shut down, swing the lever down, and wait a few seconds before retracting it and starting up. Sometimes it won't clear, and requires a few actuations of the lever to 'sweep' the grass off the tines. And if that fails, you'll actually need to crank the engine with the grate open, and hit the throttle briefly, allowing whatever grass, etc to go through and be chopped up, then retract the grate. That will most definitely clear the obstruction.





> On your PSI gauge, where did you plumb it in at? And, what is the pressure reading you get? I'm sure there would be a difference between the main exit flow, and what would be "seen" at the tell tale (pee tube), if you have one.




It's placed between the pump and the engine. If you use a strainer, you want to make sure you have it on the engine side of the strainer, not the pump side. Reason being, if it's on the pump side, and the strainer gets clogged, the guage will continue to read pressure, even though no water is making it to the engine. If you have it on the engine side, then, the instant the strainer clogs, the PSI guage will indicate a loss of pressure. 

To install, you'll have to cut the water line that goes from the pump the engine, install a T-fitting, with female NPT fittings. Then you'll install the correct size barb fittings for your cooling line. Then, you'll need to install a reducer to step it down from 1/2 NPT down to 1/8 NPT, then install the barb fitting for the pitot tube that runs to the guage.

You won't be able to get any readings on the tell tale side of the engine. Those are total loss pressure readings, and therefore, won't read any pressure at all. And if you try to restrict them, it could affect the engine's performance. So, you need to read on the pressure side of the system, like described above.

As for PSI readings, first let me say that the FXHO engine uses a 1.47:1 reduction gear for the driveline, so, my engine RPM's are higher than the actual pump RPM's. For instance, at 10K RPM, the pump's RPM is about 6800.

At around 7K RPM, (4,761 RPM at the pump) my PSI reads about 8-10. At 9K (6,122 pump RPM) it's around 12 PSI. And as I wind out to full throttle at 10K RPM (6,802 pump RPM) it's about 15 PSI.

It's important to note the readings at different RPM's (another reason for having a tach) This way, if there's ever an obstruction, etc, you'll know what the normal reading would be, and can shut down and inspect to find the trouble.


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## painlesstom (Jan 18, 2013)

bigwave said:


> Now that is what I am talking about.....nice catfish.




Thanks, not the biggest I've caught, or the most, but it was a good way to break it in and add to the "new boat smell"! lol



PSG-1 said:


> It's made by "Ocean Equipment" and I bought the deck plate and coil hose as a set, from West Marine. Normally, this would be hooked to a 12VDC pump, and a holding tank. But as I said, it can be hooked to the roostertail fitting on a Yamaha jet pump. You'll have to be on the throttle a little bit to actually have some flow, but that actually works good, as then you're planed out and the water will run off the deck, to the bilge, where it can be pumped overboard....that is, unless you've got a self-bailing deck, then it simply runs overboard. My next jetboat WILL have a self-bailing deck, I don't care if I have to jack it up 8-10 inches to make it happen, but it will be a self-bailer.



Thanks for the info. I can see how you would be able to use the wash down system on yours since it's big enough to have a passenger to run the hose while you operate the boat. I suppose I could spray and drive at the same time, siphon bilge would be working then too. I would have to add a fitting to the pump to provide a supply source, Seadoo doesn't have the rooster tail fitting. With such a small boat though, I don't think it would be worth the effort in my case. 

I am definitely going to be planning a stomp grate system in the future, for this boat and my Mokai.


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## PSG-1 (Jan 18, 2013)

painlesstom said:


> Thanks for the info. I can see how you would be able to use the wash down system on yours since it's big enough to have a passenger to run the hose while you operate the boat. I suppose I could spray and drive at the same time, siphon bilge would be working then too.



That's how I do it, spray and drive. Obviously, you want to be on an open stretch of water with no obstructions or maneuvering required, so you're on plane, and you can do a little multi-tasking. 

I can hose down most of the deck in my boat without getting out of my seat. What little bit I can't get, I don't worry about it, I take care of it when I get home. It's just nice to be able to hose off the bulk of the mud, etc while you're out on the water. My boat has 4 bilge pumps, including the siphon bilge, with a combined pumping ability of about 2700 GPH. If I had a self-bailing deck, I wouldn't be as overkill about the pumps as I am. But I like to be able to quickly de-water a boat. 





> I would have to add a fitting to the pump to provide a supply source, Seadoo doesn't have the rooster tail fitting. With such a small boat though, I don't think it would be worth the effort in my case.



All it is on the Yamaha pump, is a lug that's cast into the aluminum, with a hole drilled at a forward angle on the right side of the exit nozzle, with a piece of 1/2" stainless tubing press-fitted into the drilled hole. (As opposed to the siphon fitting, which is drilled at a rearward angle, and located on the left side) You could probably make a similar fitting for the sea doo pump. 

Not sure if the exit nozzle is plastic, or aluminum. If it's plastic, you might be able to shape a piece of UHMW or similar plastic to form the lug, and epoxy that to the side of the exit nozzle, then place your tube through the hole, maybe even use a swaging tool on the inside end of the tube, to keep it from blowing out under pressure. 

Because this is a pressure fitting, the tube does not have to protrude into the nozzle. With your suction fitting, in order to form the negative pressure, if you look at the nozzle, you'll see they extend that tube into the path of the flow, to create the venturi effect.





> I am definitely going to be planning a stomp grate system in the future, for this boat and my Mokai.




If you check my aluma-jet thread, I show a picture from a sea doo jetboat service manual, it shows a diagram of the stomp grate system they use. Since you're using a sea-doo pump, a lot of the parts for the jetboat stomp grate may fit your pump with no modifications required. You'll still probably have to make the jam nut and socket system where the cable enters the top side of the pump tunnel, that is also shown on that thread. 

When you get into actually building those grates, let me know if you need any tips or advice.


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## painlesstom (Jan 18, 2013)

PSG-1 said:


> My boat has 4 bilge pumps, including the siphon bilge, with a combined pumping ability of about 2700 GPH. If I had a self-bailing deck, I wouldn't be as overkill about the pumps as I am. But I like to be able to quickly de-water a boat.



Don't blame you there, I have the dual SeaDoo siphon pickups as well as a 800 gph 12v bilge pump. Can't have too much pumping ability!



> All it is on the Yamaha pump, is a lug that's cast into the aluminum, with a hole drilled at a forward angle on the right side of the exit nozzle, with a piece of 1/2" stainless tubing press-fitted into the drilled hole. (As opposed to the siphon fitting, which is drilled at a rearward angle, and located on the left side) You could probably make a similar fitting for the sea doo pump.
> 
> Not sure if the exit nozzle is plastic, or aluminum. If it's plastic, you might be able to shape a piece of UHMW or similar plastic to form the lug, and epoxy that to the side of the exit nozzle, then place your tube through the hole, maybe even use a swaging tool on the inside end of the tube, to keep it from blowing out under pressure.
> 
> Because this is a pressure fitting, the tube does not have to protrude into the nozzle. With your suction fitting, in order to form the negative pressure, if you look at the nozzle, you'll see they extend that tube into the path of the flow, to create the venturi effect.



Would pretty simple to just drill and tap the pump for a brass NPT fitting too. I understand the physics of the venturi bilge. I developed, sell, and install a bilge system for the Mokai jet pump. I also improved on the pump's sealing and lubrication design so it will actually last, even machine replacement shafts for them. https://www.painlessclutch.com https://www.improvingyourmokai.com Those sites are me, if you are interested in seeing some of my work. My youtube channel for all my Mokai stuff -> https://www.youtube.com/user/ImprovingYourMokai?feature=watch



> If you check my aluma-jet thread, I show a picture from a sea doo jetboat service manual, it shows a diagram of the stomp grate system they use. Since you're using a sea-doo pump, a lot of the parts for the jetboat stomp grate may fit your pump with no modifications required.
> 
> When you get into actually building those grates, let me know if you need any tips or advice.



I will go back and check that out later. Thanks again for the info. :mrgreen:


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## PSG-1 (Jan 18, 2013)

painlesstom said:


> Would pretty simple to just drill and tap the pump for a brass NPT fitting too. I understand the physics of the venturi bilge. I developed, sell, and install a bilge system for the Mokai jet pump. I also improved on the pump's sealing and lubrication design so it will actually last, even machine replacement shafts for them. https://www.painlessclutch.com https://www.improvingyourmokai.com Those sites are me, if you are interested in seeing some of my work. My youtube channel for all my Mokai stuff -> https://www.youtube.com/user/ImprovingYourMokai?feature=watch




If you can do all of that, then, making the modification for the pressure fitting shouldn't be an issue at all for you! :mrgreen: I suspect the stomp grate modification will be pretty easy for you, as well, considering your fabrication and machining skills. 

The biggest challenge of the stomp grate is using the correct grommet system to clamp the cable through the pump tunnel, and not leaking with the water pressure force at 35 MPH. Mine works flawlessly, but that's because it's a copy of the system used by sea-doo, and also utilizes a few actual sea doo parts, such as the cable clamps, rubber grommet, and threaded end fitting that the grate attaches to.


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## painlesstom (Jan 20, 2013)

Yeah, I'll tackle the grate project and possibly the wash down system, once I've recharged from the build. Will be spending some time with it on the water to see what I want, or need, before diving into more mods just yet. The stomp grate will probably be a project for next year when I have leaves to worry about, the river here will be clean until then.

Logged 25 miles today and got some fishing in, ran great. I will be relocating the bilge pickup further back, with a different strainer design, so it evacuates more water. Every time I switch back up to the front seat, the bow dips lower than the stern and I end up with water around me feet. It's not much, just the water that comes in from landing fish or me getting in, but I'd like to have more of that sucked out while I'm en route to my next spot. 

I also "rebuilt" the Attwood anchor crank with some beefier internal hardware, and lengthened the handle for more leverage. Works perfectly now. I didn't take the video cam out today, but next time I'll get some video to show how it works.

Love this boat, the looks I get from everyone while I'm out are priceless. 8)


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## JMichael (Jan 21, 2013)

Got any pics of what you did with the anchor winch? I've always suspected they were a little on the light duty side for I wanted.


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## painlesstom (Jan 21, 2013)

Sorry, I didn't get any pics. There was a bolt that held the handle to the spool, it was only a #10 size and couldn't handle the load. So I drilled out the cone washers on each end and put a much larger bolt with a 5/16 body and 1/4-20 thread end, and assembled everything with lots of grease. Then I lengthened the handle by 2". 

My anchor weighs in at 12 lbs, I can crank that up easily now. Hitting a snag doesn't cause a problem now either, I can let some rope back out and work the rope by hand till I free the anchor, then I finish cranking it up. There are no bearings in the design so I don't know how long it will last, only time will tell, but I think it's going to work out ok. 

I'd like to know if there is any difference in design between the Attwood brand, and the Worth. They look similar in appearance, the Worth is more expensive though, maybe the internals are better designed?


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## PSG-1 (Jan 21, 2013)

painlesstom said:


> Yeah, I'll tackle the grate project and possibly the wash down system, once I've recharged from the build. Will be spending some time with it on the water to see what I want, or need, before diving into more mods just yet.




I know exactly what you mean. A build like this can wear you down a little bit, especially if you're putting in a lot of late nights and trying to get it done ASAP. Like you said, run with it for a while, and as you do, through some trial and error, you'll get some ideas for other things that need to be done to fine-tune it, or other mods that are nice to have. My advice with any mods is not to be hasty like I've been known for doing, think carefully about the best layout for something before doing it. Otherwise, if you do like me and just throw it together, you won't be happy with it, and you'll be right back to having to change it.





> The stomp grate will probably be a project for next year when I have leaves to worry about, the river here will be clean until then.





Around September or October, the grate will come in very useful. But you're right, here in the southeast, most of the rivers are clean until the fall.





> Logged 25 miles today and got some fishing in, ran great. I will be relocating the bilge pickup further back, with a different strainer design, so it evacuates more water. Every time I switch back up to the front seat, the bow dips lower than the stern and I end up with water around me feet. It's not much, just the water that comes in from landing fish or me getting in, but I'd like to have more of that sucked out while I'm en route to my next spot.




Which strainer are you using now? Factory, or something else? If you're not using a factory-type strainer, get a Yamaha bilge strainer and mount it in the very back corner of the bilge, where the floor meets the transom. 

The other problem with drainage in jetboats is that because of the jet pump tunnel, when water runs to the stern, the tunnel acts like a divider, some of the water goes to the starboard side of the tunnel, and some runs to the port side. So, unless you have a bilge on BOTH sides, you can never keep all the water pumped out. (I suspect that's why you're getting some water in your boat) This is why I have my 1100 and my 800 GPH pumps on the starboard side of the tunnel in my boat, and then the suction strainer on the port side, for any water that the other pumps don't take out.





> Love this boat, the looks I get from everyone while I'm out are priceless. 8)




Indeed! If it's anything like my experience with my boat, people almost break their necks staring as it whizzes by, with a puzzled look on their face like "where's the motor on that thing?" It's always fun to race them, too. Anytime I go inland, I always see somebody in one of those little fast crafts or bug buster type boats with a souped-up outboard, and I always enjoy running alongside them. 

Not just inland, but here, as well. We've got a guy out here with one of those go-devil surface drives on his boat, he thinks he owns the creek at low tide because of where it can go. Correction, he THOUGHT he owned the creek, until I blasted by him one day, passed him like he was sitting still, then went 100 yards up the creek from him, did a 180 spin at 30 MPH, and blasted back by him. The look on his face, and his passenger's faces was great, wish I'd had my camera for that one! :mrgreen: :mrgreen: 8)


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## JMichael (Jan 21, 2013)

painlesstom said:


> Sorry, I didn't get any pics. There was a bolt that held the handle to the spool, it was only a #10 size and couldn't handle the load. So I drilled out the cone washers on each end and put a much larger bolt with a 5/16 body and 1/4-20 thread end, and assembled everything with lots of grease. Then I lengthened the handle by 2".
> 
> My anchor weighs in at 12 lbs, I can crank that up easily now. Hitting a snag doesn't cause a problem now either, I can let some rope back out and work the rope by hand till I free the anchor, then I finish cranking it up. There are no bearings in the design so I don't know how long it will last, only time will tell, but I think it's going to work out ok.
> 
> I'd like to know if there is any difference in design between the Attwood brand, and the Worth. They look similar in appearance, the Worth is more expensive though, maybe the internals are better designed?


I'm not sure what brand mine is because it came with the boat but it looks exactly like yours. I haven't figured out how to get the spool/hub off to get at the inner workings of it yet. I was planning on using a 15-20 lb anchor on mine so it would hold when I take it to the rivers here.


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## painlesstom (Jan 22, 2013)

JMichael said:


> I'm not sure what brand mine is because it came with the boat but it looks exactly like yours. I haven't figured out how to get the spool/hub off to get at the inner workings of it yet. I was planning on using a 15-20 lb anchor on mine so it would hold when I take it to the rivers here.




Here are a few pics that might help make sense of some things. The bolt is what I replaced, the factory used a small #10 with Phillips head. The nut is on the opposite side of the spool under the mounting pad. I wouldn't recommend anything over 15 lbs. Trac makes a 12v anchor hoist that is rated to 25 lbs that might work well for you. Hope that helps.


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## painlesstom (Jan 22, 2013)

PSG-1 said:


> Which strainer are you using now? Factory, or something else? If you're not using a factory-type strainer, get a Yamaha bilge strainer and mount it in the very back corner of the bilge, where the floor meets the transom.
> 
> The other problem with drainage in jetboats is that because of the jet pump tunnel, when water runs to the stern, the tunnel acts like a divider, some of the water goes to the starboard side of the tunnel, and some runs to the port side. So, unless you have a bilge on BOTH sides, you can never keep all the water pumped out. (I suspect that's why you're getting some water in your boat) This is why I have my 1100 and my 800 GPH pumps on the starboard side of the tunnel in my boat, and then the suction strainer on the port side, for any water that the other pumps don't take out.



I've got the factory Seadoo dual pickups that were mounted right behind the PTO on either side of the tunnel. I moved them further back which will help alot. With the Seadoo hull splitting the hull down the middle, water would take three paths. Port, center, and starboard. The Jon boat drain plug is on the starboard side, so I put my 800 gph 12v on port side leaving the siphon pickups center. So I had water from both sides that never got near the siphon pickups. I simply sealed off both sides so any water taken on in front of the deck would be forced to drain to the center and to the siphons. If I end up taking on enough water to put the 800 to work, then that is when it would be worth it's weight in gold. I hope I never have to use it. I'll get some pics of how it's set up soon, too many things going on and forgot.



> Indeed! If it's anything like my experience with my boat, people almost break their necks staring as it whizzes by, with a puzzled look on their face like "where's the motor on that thing?" It's always fun to race them, too. Anytime I go inland, I always see somebody in one of those little fast crafts or bug buster type boats with a souped-up outboard, and I always enjoy running alongside them.
> 
> Not just inland, but here, as well. We've got a guy out here with one of those go-devil surface drives on his boat, he thinks he owns the creek at low tide because of where it can go. Correction, he THOUGHT he owned the creek, until I blasted by him one day, passed him like he was sitting still, then went 100 yards up the creek from him, did a 180 spin at 30 MPH, and blasted back by him. The look on his face, and his passenger's faces was great, wish I'd had my camera for that one! :mrgreen: :mrgreen: 8)



These boats are certainly unique, I'm really surprised a company hasn't produced something similar. There definitely seems to be a market for something like it. But then again, maybe not, most of the people who I've talked to that wanted one, couldn't afford one anyhow. Doesn't hurt my feelings though, I like being the only one around with a Jet Jon. lol :lol:


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## PSG-1 (Jan 22, 2013)

painlesstom said:


> These boats are certainly unique, I'm really surprised a company hasn't produced something similar. There definitely seems to be a market for something like it. But then again, maybe not, most of the people who I've talked to that wanted one, couldn't afford one anyhow. Doesn't hurt my feelings though, I like being the only one around with a Jet Jon. lol :lol:



The only factory-production jet john I've ever seen is the Tracker with the 175 Mercury Sport Jet. And I don't like the way they have the motor in a vertical configuration with a 2 foot high doghouse in the middle of the rear deck. The horizontal engine configuration like our boats looks much sleeker.

On one hand, it would be cool to get into building these boats. But on the other hand, I like being one of the rare few that has a boat that can travel through areas that you'd ground a kayak trying to cross (like the serpentine channel in my video 'low tide- high output')


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## painlesstom (Jan 22, 2013)

Yup, and the 175 drinks gas quickly. I've got a 14' Sea Rayder w/ Sport Jet 90 that you can watch the fuel gauge drop with every mile. I've also seen some with the Optimax 200, which is supposedly better on fuel, but I'm sure no where as near as efficient as our lighter boats. I've put 50 miles on GPS since I filled my tank, have used roughly half, which gives me around 11 mpg so far. I am very happy with that.

It wouldn't be half as fun if everyone had one. Anyone who sees my boat now, asks if I built it. Look what happened with choppers in the Harley scene... oops. Now nobody cares and building one doesn't matter, selling one is almost impossible anymore.


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## PSG-1 (Jan 22, 2013)

painlesstom said:


> Yup, and the 175 drinks gas quickly. I've got a 14' Sea Rayder w/ Sport Jet 90 that you can watch the fuel gauge drop with every mile. I've also seen some with the Optimax 200, which is supposedly better on fuel, but I'm sure no where as near as efficient as our lighter boats. I've put 50 miles on GPS since I filled my tank, have used roughly half, which gives me around 11 mpg so far. I am very happy with that.





Damn skippy! I'd be happy with that, too! That's outstanding gas mileage for a boat. My FXHO gets about 5 MPG on average cruising speed, and it's a 4 stroke! But then again, I am pushing 1225 pounds (boat fully loaded with fuel) then my weight, plus any passengers on top of that. The good thing is that regardless of number of passengers, or regardless of what purpose I'm using the boat for, including waterskiing, the gas mileage doesn't change much.




> It wouldn't be half as fun if everyone had one. Anyone who sees my boat now, asks if I built it. Look what happened with choppers in the Harley scene... oops. Now nobody cares and building one doesn't matter, selling one is almost impossible anymore.




Absolutely right! But it would be cool to be one of the first people to try and corner the market of jet jons if there ever was such a market. Heck, like I said, maybe even get a TV show and call it American Jetboat. I'm not really a fan of choppers, but I am a fan of boats, guarantee I'd watch the show. 

But then again, like I said before, I like being one of the lucky few with the unfair advantage of being able to go where other boats can't. :twisted:


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## Ranchero50 (Jan 22, 2013)

Good looking little boat. I second the grab rails around the windshield, they make floating while floating a safer proposition.

On mine I also went with the pin type swivel seat posts so I can move my seats around. The swivel isn't an issue at speed and makes 'working' from the drivers seat more comfortable.

You should be able to get a stock Seadoo tach and wire it in.

Good job and enjoy it.


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## painlesstom (Jan 23, 2013)

PSG-1 said:


> Damn skippy! I'd be happy with that, too! That's outstanding gas mileage for a boat. My FXHO gets about 5 MPG on average cruising speed, and it's a 4 stroke! But then again, I am pushing 1225 pounds (boat fully loaded with fuel) then my weight, plus any passengers on top of that. The good thing is that regardless of number of passengers, or regardless of what purpose I'm using the boat for, including waterskiing, the gas mileage doesn't change much.



That was part of my goal for this build, to keep fuel mileage a priority. My Mokai gets 25 mpg, but with a top speed of 15mph it isn't going to win any races. For the Jon boat to get 10+ mpg, well, that makes me very happy.




> Absolutely right! But it would be cool to be one of the first people to try and corner the market of jet jons if there ever was such a market. Heck, like I said, maybe even get a TV show and call it American Jetboat. I'm not really a fan of choppers, but I am a fan of boats, guarantee I'd watch the show.
> 
> But then again, like I said before, I like being one of the lucky few with the unfair advantage of being able to go where other boats can't. :twisted:



That would require an immense amount of startup capital, which would present the biggest challenge. Get that show going and I'll watch every episode, being a part of it could be fun, but the spotlight isn't the seat for me.. lol 

Unfair advantages are only unfair to those without... I will happily wave to anyone as I skim by over top of the shallows. :lol:


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## painlesstom (Jan 23, 2013)

Ranchero50 said:


> Good looking little boat. I second the grab rails around the windshield, they make floating while floating a safer proposition.
> 
> On mine I also went with the pin type swivel seat posts so I can move my seats around. The swivel isn't an issue at speed and makes 'working' from the drivers seat more comfortable.
> 
> ...




Thanks man, I watched your videos many times before, and during, my build. Good job yourself! 8)


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## painlesstom (Jan 28, 2013)

Weather warmed up and I made it out for a nice ride. 21 miles round trip and got some video using the anchor, which has been working much better.

This is the 10.5 mile return trip. -> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T7cB-xGvwuo


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## 64coupe (Apr 30, 2013)

Hi Great build and a lot of information to help me with mine! 

Do you keep the boat indoors heated or climate controlled? What are your winters like? 

I am considering fiberglass but wanted to know how you prepped your surface. It looks as though you put on the glass/resin with out cleaning off the paint. Resin would probably eat through the paint though haha. How is it holding up this season, any leaks or concerns?

I am considering this same idea but I have heard the aluminum oxidizes almost immediately after the paint is cleaned off and aluminum and fiberglass have yet to be something of a permanent use.


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## painlesstom (Apr 30, 2013)

Thanks, it is stored in my garage but not climate controlled. The joint between the fiberglass hull and the aluminum hull is sealed with polyurethane and bolted together with 30 + 1/4-20 stainless bolts. The fiberglass I added was to add rigidity to that union, I sanded down and cleaned all the fiberglass hull so the fiberglass I added would stand a better chance of adhering to it, but wasn't worried about it sticking to the aluminum. It is just making the jet ski hull footprint larger so the weight was evenly distributed over the entire floor of the boat. There is no flex, no leaks, and I do not expect any. This method works well, but I would not recommend it for areas where you might encounter rocks. 

Let me know how your build progresses, I would like to follow your thread if you start one. Good luck!


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## 64coupe (Apr 30, 2013)

painlesstom said:


> Thanks, it is stored in my garage but not climate controlled. The joint between the fiberglass hull and the aluminum hull is sealed with polyurethane and bolted together with 30 + 1/4-20 stainless bolts. The fiberglass I added was to add rigidity to that union, I sanded down and cleaned all the fiberglass hull so the fiberglass I added would stand a better chance of adhering to it, but wasn't worried about it sticking to the aluminum. It is just making the jet ski hull footprint larger so the weight was evenly distributed over the entire floor of the boat. There is no flex, no leaks, and I do not expect any. This method works well, but I would not recommend it for areas where you might encounter rocks.
> 
> Let me know how your build progresses, I would like to follow your thread if you start one. Good luck!




Thanks for your input! I really do enjoy forums the wealth of knowledge is awesome. Who makes the polyurethane that you used? I like the idea of spreading the footprint of the ski's hull I did not think if it like that. Is your engine still the single carburetor? 

I did start a thread. https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=30328 I have been thinking about the use of rubber as a gasket between the aluminum and the fiberglass of the ski. And yes I may encounter a rock so I will try to only expose the ride plate and pump inlet on the bottom of the hull.


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## painlesstom (Apr 30, 2013)

I replied to your thread and subscribed. 

Yes, my engine has a single carb. Plenty of power for what I need, a flat bottom 12' Jon boat has no business going faster than 36 mph anyhow. :LOL2: I wanted the smallest Seadoo motor to keep fuel consumption down, 11 mpg is the result, but it's still a thrill to blast around in.

Getting ready to build a grab bar around the windshield, will make moving around easier from front to rear.


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## painlesstom (Jul 18, 2013)

Finally got the grab bar made and installed, makes such a difference in moving around the boat now. Got some fishing in on the GoPro so I could share the trip with everyone.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AdbgkBgLzDo


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## PSG-1 (Jul 18, 2013)

Good addition/upgrade! 

I put a grab rail above my windshield a couple of years ago, after doing a full-body plant in the boat early one morning at the boat ramp, when the boat was slick with dew. LOL, fortunately, no one saw that.


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## Ranchero50 (Jul 18, 2013)

Good build. You should be able to pick up for the tach off one of the Mpem wires and use a Seadoo tach. I think I just had to add a resister to match what the electrical schematic called for.

One neat thing is once the 587 goes south you can put a 717 in it and really fly.


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## PSG-1 (Jul 18, 2013)

I ran a Teleflex tachometer off my Tigershark engine, and it worked correctly. I had to fiddle with the potentiometer adjustment on the back of the tach to get it dialed in to read correctly, but once I did that it worked fine.

As per ABYC codes, most of the time, tach wire is going to be green. But the sure way to find out is to use a little 12V test light. Hook the negative lead to a negative wire, then, put the positive lead on the wire you believe is the tach wire. Start the engine and see if the light pulses. If so, this is the tach wire. If the light stays on with no pulsing, this would be an ignition wire. 

When testing like this, it's a good idea to use little 1 amp glass fuses rigged inline on the positive wire, in case you cause a short, you won't fry anything except a fuse.


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## Ranchero50 (Jul 18, 2013)

The Seadoo tachs don't pick off the ignition coil as they are running a hybrid magneto setup, they sense off the generator wiring. I had to check the schematic, yellow / black wire thats going to the rectifier gets split off and a 20K ohm resister installed inline turns into a grey wire that goes to the tach sense on the Seadoo tach. The other two wires for the tach are plug and play with the rest of the Seadoo gauges.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SEADOO-97-96-GTX-787-800-OEM-TACHOMETER-RPM-GUAGE-278001051-TACH-GAUGE-/181178318152?pt=Personal_Watercraft_Parts&hash=item2a2f11bd48&vxp=mtr

The tach was one of those WTF moments on my build just trying to figure out what would work and read correctly. eVilbay saved the day.


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## painlesstom (Jul 18, 2013)

I've already added a tach... just a simple tiny tach type version with hour meter. Works fine for what I need.




I'm not sure the 717 and 580 use the same MPEM, I chose the 580 for it's smaller size and lower hp for the sake of better fuel efficiency. If I ever need to replace it, I'll go with another 580.

My next project I will be using a 94' Seadoo XP with the 657 motor that I have, should keep me busy this winter.


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## RiverBottomOutdoors (Jul 18, 2013)

What a great boat! I can't imagine how much fun that thing must be to scoot around on. I'd love to have one just to jet the rivers around here.


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## painlesstom (Jul 18, 2013)

Thanks! It has been so much fun, and perfect for the catfishing I do. Definitely an attention getter!! LOL


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## cardinaljosh88 (Jul 18, 2013)

How many feet of angle aluminum would you say you used? The boat looks great!


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## painlesstom (Jul 18, 2013)

I'm guessing, but probably in the ballpark of 70-80 ft. It nickle and dimed me to death.... lol Great stuff to work with though.


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## Country Dave (Nov 17, 2013)

_Hey man my hats off to you,

Very cool build, very cool looking. I watched the video and it looks like it performs really good as well. Nice job................ =D> _


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## painlesstom (Nov 17, 2013)

Thanks, it's been a super fun boat and perfect for the fishing I do. :mrgreen:


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## PSG-1 (Nov 17, 2013)

Nice catfish! How much did that one weigh? Looks like about 12-15 lbs.


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## painlesstom (Nov 17, 2013)

Haha I wish! It was closer to 10, but it sure looked like a monster!! :lol:


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## Ranchero50 (Nov 17, 2013)

Dang, you guys eat the big ones? Here we let them go, too much bad stuff in them from pollution. 18-20" is about the limit for eating channel cats.

It's good to see the boat is still performing well. That's a sign of a good design and build.


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## painlesstom (Nov 17, 2013)

Thanks, the boat has be running great. Haven't had any problems other than a broken steering cable from drifting backward into a submerged stump, even then it wasn't any problem to "surf" the 13 miles back at 25mph. I average around 20-40 miles a week when weather is good. I've been very pleased with it. As many people ask about it, I'm glad I store in my shop or I'd be worried about it disappearing. lol 

Channels and Blues here typically don't have any consumption restrictions according to GDNR, I eat the big ones all the time without issue. I do spread them out though so it winds up I get a meal from one every week or so. The smaller ones I'll eat every day, love em'.

Any new builds in progress on your end?


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## Ranchero50 (Nov 18, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=334710#p334710 said:


> painlesstom » Yesterday, 21:45[/url]"]Any new builds in progress on your end?



I'm building an aluminum hardtop for my dad's 29' Chris Craft... Maybe I should make a thread about it.


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## painlesstom (May 13, 2014)

Found a new way to film, and thought everyone would enjoy watching some new footage of my jet jon.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6yU2KeZUe9w


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## gillhunter (May 13, 2014)

That is so cool!!!!!!!!! =D> =D> =D> =D> =D>


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## He Reigns (May 13, 2014)

Awesome boat and awesome video.


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## painlesstom (May 23, 2015)

Got some fishing in this week, Frankenjon is still haulin' the catch home without issue. To date, I have not had to fix anything other than replace the battery last year. Love this boat!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=akSazFtaTjM


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## PSG-1 (May 24, 2015)

Man, that is simply awesome video! I want to get another drone....but after my luck with the last one getting away from me, I'm hesitant to buy another one. If I do get another one, it's gotta have an auto-return feature. And it needs to be waterproof, since I intend to use it from the boat, for patrolling back drains on our oyster leases for people illegally trespassing to harvest without permits.

They had one called a mariner 6ch drone that is waterproof and carries a go-pro camera. It was on amazon for a little under 400 dollars, but now out of stock. Should have grabbed it when they had them. #-o


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## painlesstom (Apr 26, 2018)

Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed it. I built another waterproof quad recently, it's a freestyle variation that I can fly acro with. I'll have to take it out with me next time I go fishing. 

I was out a couple weeks ago, first fishing trip of the year. Frankenjon was ready, and so was I. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=crfcDETqIFI


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## painlesstom (Oct 5, 2018)

Six years since I built Frankenjon, motor was an old Seadoo Rotax from a 1993. It's been showing it's age from the beginning with occasional fouled plugs and some sluggish throttle response now and then. I decided it was time to freshen things up. So new motor in, pump serviced, new fuel lines. Fired up the first crank! Everything in tip top shape and ready to catch Catfish for years to come. Rebuilt engine came from SBT. 22 mile break in today, perfect run and engine ran great. Caught lunch to top it off. God is good!!! 


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bXT_YEeNTy8


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## eshaw (Oct 6, 2018)

These look like a lot of fun. The best part would be the building. So would you do it again?


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## painlesstom (Oct 6, 2018)

I wouldn't want to do it for anyone else, but it was well worth the effort to do it for myself. If I had to go back and do it again, I sure would. Has been the perfect fishing boat for me, I've changed very little since the build it's worked out so well. :mrgreen:


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