# Renovating a 2004 Tracker Pro175



## DPI (Jan 28, 2017)

I bought this last Sunday as a boat my daughter and I can use to fish out of. It's been about 20 years since I owned a boat and this is the first restoration I have attempted.
I have some years building and upholstering custom furniture so I thought I would attempt this as covering the panels with carpet is similar to upholstering furniture.

I got most everything apart this morning and now I'm trying to get the adhesive off. This is where I can use some help. 
What can I use to remove the adhesive? 
Can I use the same remover on plywood and the metal?
How much residue needs to be removed? Does it have to be down to the paint or can there be a thin layer of residue left on the paint?

I don't have a before picture, but it looked similar to this:




Now it looks like this:


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## Johnny (Jan 28, 2017)

DPI - welcome aboard.

you have a great start !!
one of the biggest differences between furniture and boat decks is that
the boat is exposed to some pretty harsh elements.
the wood must be preserved and waterproofed appropriately prior to covering.
if the existing adhesive is like Weldwood Contact Cement, I would leave
the old adhesive (if it is sound) and just glue over it. It could be outdoor carpet adhesive - who knows.
if you want to try the removers - do the test patches first and proceed from there.
on flat smooth surfaces, some heat from a high power heat gun and scraper may work fine.

how is that foam ? nice and dry and solid? or wet and soggy like an old mater samich.


*Read, Understand and Follow all instructions and safety precautions on any products you use.*




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## DPI (Jan 28, 2017)

Thanks for the welcome and the information. I found no soft foam. It all seems to be fairly firm. 

I'm sorry thing about replacing the plywood decking with 1/4" aluminum. Do you see drawbacks to this? Or should I stick with the correctly prepped plywood?


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Jan 28, 2017)

You can test the foam by making a coring tool from a piece of pvc pipe. Take a length of 1.25" pvc and cut teeth into one end and push/twist it through the foam to the hull. This will let you know the condition of the foam at it's lowest point.
1/4" aluminum will be very heavy .125 should be plenty.


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## DPI (Jan 29, 2017)

Did a few spot checks and found no soft foam. From what you can see, should I add foam anywhere?

I layed out the old carpet. This doesn't include any of the panels or the main deck.



And I started glueing in the new stuff:


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## Johnny (Jan 30, 2017)

when a boat is stored outside under a good tarp
or - in garage or covered shed out of the weather,
there is usually no foam-water issues.

when the boat is stored outside in the weather,
over the years, the foam will degrade with age
and soak up rain or melted snow water like a sponge.

so - if you are confident your foam will last a few more years
if protected properly, there is no need to add to what is there
unless you want to.
drainage is the issue....... the last bass boat I bought was stored outside
under a cheap blue tarp that leaked pretty bad.
then, when water got under the plywood deck, there was no drainage
on top of the foam. so the water had no place to go but "through"
the 20 year old foam. if you see places where a small hole would provide
drainage, I would do it just for insurance. build it and enjoy your boat !

in these two photos, you can see where I would drill drain holes above the floor.
if the foamed compartments are not watertight as in the second photo, I would drill the
drain holes lower. but water will only infiltrate the bottoms of the compartments
if the boat holds a lot of water. Proper drainage is the key. Provide a path of least
resistance for any accumulated water to escape.









how willl you store it 99% of the time?






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## DPI (Jan 30, 2017)

I appreciate you taking the time to help with this. The drilling of drainage holes and the new construction foam wasn't something I thought about. I am adding this to my to-do list. On image #2, if this holds water, you would drill holes there instead of higher on the panel? Or is it better just to drill a few extra to cover the bases?

I'm not sure if the boat has been covered much of its life or not. It was under a carport when I bought it, but you could tell there was some standing water on the floor at one time. The only area that seems musty/damp was under the seats and the PO tried to use contact cement to hold the carpet down, that didn't work.

The boat will be stored in my shop unless it's on the water somewhere.

Another question. Would there be any issues with installing 120 lbs of trolling motor batteries in the bow or should they stay in the original location at the stern?


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## Johnny (Jan 30, 2017)

#1 - personally, i feel that the more drainage you can provide
will save you much grief in the future. IMO, internal vertical 
sheet metal structures have nothing to do with water integrity.
so when a compartment is filled with pourable or spray-in 
polyurethane foam, it is usually "watertight" with no drainage.
thus the accumulation of any water getting under the decking
will seap into, and be retained, by compromised foam when it dies of old age.
so the more drainage you can provide = the better.
holes at the bottom edges can only be an advantage.
(just don't drill into the hull itself).

*Edit:* if there is evidence of standing water at one time, and the foam-filled
compartments are not watertight at the bottom seams, this could provide
an avenue of water penetrating - thus "maybe" saturating the bottom of the foam.
I like the idea that _lckstckn2smknbrls_ mentioned of taking a core sample
with the pipe. If you can get hold of a piece of 1/2" rigid copper pipe, I would
run the pipe down the inside corners and remove that plug of foam. Then drill a hole
from the outside that can connects to the void you just created for drainage.

#2 - as for the batteries, I have very little experience in that area.
This issue has been addressed several times in past threads.
maybe someone else can provide you with that information.

good luck in your build !


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## DPI (Feb 5, 2017)

Can someone tell me where I can find one of these plastic inserts?


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## Johnny (Feb 5, 2017)

that looks very similar to what you see in a restaurant.
if you can provide a size that you need, maybe the gallery can help.
(probably cheaper than a marine supply store).



https://www.webstaurantstore.com/search/steam-table-pans.html
https://www.webstaurantstore.com/14-x-13-x-5-plastic-white-storage-box/407PLMB.html?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=GoogleShopping&gclid=CPKG7pW4-dECFQVZhgodPiEJsw



.


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## gatorglenn (Feb 5, 2017)

Try TrackerBoatParts 518-562-2628 att- Tammy, have your Vin # ready to you hull.


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## DPI (Feb 5, 2017)

Thanks for the replies. I'll probably try to find a factory replacement if available. 

The stern deck is coming together slowly.


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## gatorglenn (Feb 6, 2017)

If you try that number I gave you that is Tracker Boat Parts original from tracker give them your whole Vin number and they can send you the exact band that goes back there


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## DPI (Feb 6, 2017)

I am going that route. I sent them a message on their website with my vin and pictures of what I am looking for. If I don't get a response in the next couple of days, I will call them.
Thanks


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## gatorglenn (Feb 7, 2017)

[emoji106]


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## DPI (Feb 9, 2017)

$51 for the storage bucket and $20 for shipping. I'm going to find something else!

I did finish the stern deck(almost). There is a small cover on the starboard side that covers the rigging. That will complete the deck.


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## DPI (Feb 13, 2017)

Finished installing one upgrade. All the fuse connectors were loose and corroded and made poor connections for the circuits. I took the old fuse block apart and tried to clean and reset the clamps but they still wouldn't hold the fuses securely. So I got the new fuse block and a cheap water resistant box and mounted them were I can access and remove the fuse panel without removing the helm and the carpeted panel. This will make it a lo easier to install new circuits.

I went from this:





To this:


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## DPI (Feb 17, 2017)

Fuseblock installed and wired up.


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## DPI (Feb 24, 2017)

I filled some imperfections in the existing decks and reused them. Both were structurally sound with no rot or soft spots. Then I sealed both sides with 2 coats of polyurethane.







I am getting close and I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.


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## gatorglenn (Feb 24, 2017)

Well this is good. Mine next lol. How soon can you start [emoji23]


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## DPI (Feb 26, 2017)

gatorglenn said:


> Well this is good. Mine next lol. How soon can you start [emoji23]
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I have way too many hours in this carpet and I'm still not done. I still have the 3 front lids to cover and install and install the front compartments and deck.

Can you tell me what switch operates the aerator attached to the live well? The rear aerator comes on but I can't get the tank mounted one to come on. It may be bad.


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## gatorglenn (Feb 26, 2017)

When you turn the recirculating switch on either in auto are on position the center position is off then you have to pull out the nozzle that's either red or white in the top right-hand corner the pumps it's right behind it that will recirculate the water in it or flow the water out but it's all to do with the recirculating switch and not the fill switch


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## DPI (Feb 26, 2017)

This switch turns the bilge on:




The switch on the left turns the aerator on that is mounted on the transom. The right switch operates the lights. I don't know what the middle switch operates.
There is a second aerator mounted on the livewell. Does it run on the middle switch, or the switch on the left?


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## gatorglenn (Feb 26, 2017)

OK the cluster of three that's on the right side of the console. The one in the middle should be your fill pump at the transom to the live well. The one switch to the left should be your aerator and you pull the valve that's inside the area aeration or pump out tank.


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## gatorglenn (Feb 26, 2017)

The switch on the right will also in manual mode just re-circulate the water in the live well. In auto mode it will area aided every three or four minutes for about a minute automatically


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## gatorglenn (Feb 26, 2017)

I mean the switch on the left sorry


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## gatorglenn (Feb 26, 2017)

If that switch does not turn the pump that is on the upper right side of the live well when you pull the valve in or out then your pump is probably bad but the switch our wire could be bad


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## DPI (Feb 26, 2017)

gatorglenn said:


> If that switch does not turn the pump that is on the upper right side of the live well when you pull the valve in or out then your pump is probably bad but the switch our wire could be bad
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


OK, thanks for the help.


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## gatorglenn (Feb 26, 2017)

[emoji106]


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## DPI (Feb 26, 2017)

gatorglenn said:


> [emoji106]
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Found the problem. There was power to and from the switch, but power wasn't getting to the pump. I disconnected the pump wires and ran them directly to the battery and the pump came on, so the pump was good. I traced the failure to the plug under the switches, its the plug that comes from the fuse block. For some reason it wasn't making good contact. I spread the male pin in the plug and that fixed the problem.

Thanks again for the help!


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## gatorglenn (Feb 26, 2017)

Glad it was something that easy which all these little problems with boats could be like that LOL


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## DPI (Feb 28, 2017)

Probably overkill, but that's what I'm all about. 

Installed 2 - 24 series Excide/Durastart batteries in parallel for starting and accessories.

Based on the specs, this gives me 12 volts with 140 ah (20 ah) and 850 cranking amps with 700 cold cranking amps. Not bad for less than $100 on sale.




I hope to pick up 2 - 6 volt golf cart batteries after work. These will give me some good specs for the trolling motor: 230 (20 ah capacity) and about 448 mins discharge @ 25 amps. I plan to mount these in the bow and lose the 20' of 6 gauge trolling motor wire. This should make the TM run like a champ!
I plan to make the mount in this box. There is plenty of room if I wanted to go with 4 - 6 volt batteries later.


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## gatorglenn (Feb 28, 2017)

Now that is a great idea! I may just have to steal this one from you LOL


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## DPI (Mar 6, 2017)

I've been working on the carpet, some minor upgrades and general boat maintenance.

Here's the new control panel I made. It has 2 quick connects. One for the wired trolling motor switch and the other for the trolling motor. It also has a switch for the outboard tilt and trim. I left room for a couple more switchs and connections for fish finder.




I'm in the process of making a dual 6 volt golf cart battery box. I'm visiting s sheet metal shop today to see if they can bend me some parts from stainless steel. More to come on this. 


Here's the front deck with the panel. It's just laying there because I was marking where to cut the hatch for the battery box.


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## gatorglenn (Mar 6, 2017)

Really coming together 


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## DPI (Mar 9, 2017)

gatorglenn said:


> Really coming together



It is going slow, probably because I want to be fishing. 
Here's the start of the front battery box. It took me a week to track down a drop of sheet aluminum to make this. I'm hoping to finish it this evening.


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## DPI (Mar 10, 2017)

Battery box done! Now order a hatch and finish installing the remaining carpeted pieces.


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## gatorglenn (Mar 10, 2017)

Sweet, very professional [emoji106]


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## DPI (Mar 10, 2017)

Thanks, just a couple more things and I will be on the water!


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## DPI (Mar 29, 2017)

Well, I touched almost everything on this boat at least once, except the bunk boards, which will be recovered shortly. As I wait on my R&R hatch lid, I got board so I made this simple tire carrier. It is high and tight, as in high off the road and tight to the frame without interference with the boat.
I fabbed this from some 4" x 1/4" angle iron I already had. Everything is bolt together and it can be placed almost anywhere on the frame.


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## DPI (Mar 31, 2017)

I think I'm done with the interior, if I can live with the painted and not carpeted hatch.


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## gatorglenn (Mar 31, 2017)

Looks awesome dude congratulations


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## DPI (Apr 1, 2017)

Thanks, I appreciate it.

Hopefully, we'll get it out today!


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## edwonbass (Apr 1, 2017)

Nice job, top notch!


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