# Recommissioning 3.5 Johnson after storage?



## SeaFaring (Sep 2, 2017)

Hi Everyone - my inlaws just gave us a 14' Starcraft Seafarer with a 3.5 Johnson 2-stroke. 

It hasn't been run for about 10 years, but was properly prepared for storage. 

The only marine motors I've worked on in the last 20+ years are diesel inboards on sailboats, so my plan was to replace the impeller and lower unit oil prior to attempting to start. 

I got a copy of the service manual, and it looks like the impeller is easy to get to, but reassembly requires special tools, lubricants, and adhesives (!). This is a far cry from replacing the impeller on a 1969 Perkins 4-236, which takes a wrench, a new impeller, and a bit of waterproof grease. 

My question is, are outboard impellers similar to diesel impellers in that not being run for a decade will cause the rubber to deteriorate such that replacement is pretty much a given, or can I start the motor to see if it pumps water and run it if all seems normal?

Thanks!


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## Pappy (Sep 2, 2017)

Right off the bat it would be nice to know the model number of the engine you are talking about or the year. 
Almost none of these engines require any special tools to do a basic water pump service. 
Do all impellers in outboards deteriorate like the inboard/diesel impellers do? You bet they do!! 
Outboard impellers take a "set" after being in the compressed state year after year and the material deteriorates as well. 
Cheap insurance against a powerhead melt-down.


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## CedarRiverScooter (Sep 2, 2017)

On impeller change - Just make sure the water tube mates up with the grommet upon reinstall.

I would squirt some 2S oil in cyls before starting.

Also drain carb bowl if easy to get to. It is probably full of goo.


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## SeaFaring (Sep 2, 2017)

Thanks everyone- it's a 2003 Johnson J3RSTF 03. 

Here are the pages from the service manual. It's the last page of instructions that gave me pause - references to "adhesive M" and the "bearing installer". 

I'll replace the impeller - it would be a pity to lose a motor trying to save a few dollars of neoprene. 























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## Pappy (Sep 2, 2017)

If you will be just installing an impeller no tool is needed. 
If you are changing out the complete pump assy. You still need no tool to install the grommet. Been there done that several times. 
Pull the prop and grease the shaft. Change the gear oil. Nothing is difficult on this engine. 
I agree with squirting some oil in the cyls and down the carb prior to pulling it through and starting. 
Use OEM parts.....they fit!


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## SeaFaring (Sep 2, 2017)

Cool - thanks! I'm a big believer in OEM parts. 


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## SeaFaring (Sep 14, 2017)

For anyone who didn't know what an impeller with "set" looks like, I just pulled this one out. Sheesh, glad I changed it out. Those arms should be straight when they're not compressed into the water pump housing...






On the plus side, gear oil looked great. It was just 14 years old, so I replaced it. 

All that's left is to mix up some fresh gas and check the spark plug!


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## SeaFaring (Sep 14, 2017)

Oh, and the water pump was full of old mud dauber nests. 


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## SeaFaring (Sep 16, 2017)

So, I pulled the spark plug to spray some oil into the cylinder, and I saw some weird texture on the piston. There's a center circle that looks like I'd expect and then a weird almost non-skid looking texture. The color doesn't look like corrosion but it seems odd. The cylinder was oiled, and everything turns over really easily. 






Can anyone provide thoughts on that?

Oh, and I can't start it. I've got spark, fresh gas, and my new impeller is working great. I suppose it's time to get over my fear of carburetors and clean that out. Sigh. I'd hoped to avoid it since it was run dry before storage. 


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## SeaFaring (Sep 16, 2017)

So, it had spark, but won't even start on starting fluid. Now I am confused. 

Any thoughts?

I can see the fluid in the exhaust, so it's not a total blockage in the carb. 


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## SeaFaring (Sep 16, 2017)

Running now - had to re-gap the plug. Sheesh. 


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