# 13.5' Rich Line V-Hull Mod



## cdustinc (Oct 6, 2009)

Here is what I've been handed:










(See profile for more pics.)

The 12' V-Beast. A boat barely alive. Gentlemen, we can rebuild her. We have the technology. We have the capability to build the world's best fly fishing v-hull jon boat. The 12' V-Beast will be that boat. Better than she was before. Better, stronger, faster.

[-o<


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## masterofillusion (Oct 6, 2009)

That is the 6 million dollar boat.


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## countryboy210 (Oct 6, 2009)

At A Cost Of ( Much Less Than ) Six Million Dollars ! :lol:


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## jasper60103 (Oct 6, 2009)

Looks like a nice project. Did you leak test it yet? That looks like a heavy duty trailer.


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## cdustinc (Oct 7, 2009)

I leak tested it before I took a few old bolts out of the transom and the hull. It was fine then, but I'm pretty sure she leaks like a sieve now.

This brings me to my first question:

How does one who cannot weld patch a few old bolt holes in aluminum? I had thought about using stainless steel bolts with some type of gasket on them to plug the old holes. After a breif search, I am now considering some type of epoxy. Any suggestions?


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## recon2g (Oct 7, 2009)

you will have many many days of fishing from your new boat. congrats. keep the photos coming.


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## danmyersmn (Oct 7, 2009)

cdustinc said:


> I leak tested it before I took a few old bolts out of the transom and the hull. It was fine then, but I'm pretty sure she leaks like a sieve now.
> 
> This brings me to my first question:
> 
> How does one who cannot weld patch a few old bolt holes in aluminum? I had thought about using stainless steel bolts with some type of gasket on them to plug the old holes. After a breif search, I am now considering some type of epoxy. Any suggestions?



Using aluminium solid rivets (not pop/blind rivets) is the best option I think. I tried both rivets and alumi-weld (brazing stick that can be applied with mapp gass. The rivets are a piece of cake.

Alumi-weld applied, sanded and skim coated with JB Weld.





45 minutes of work I would guess.

Aluminium rivet installed. 5 minutes work.





I had two holes in the bottom of my boat. I used epoxy to plug them all summer long so that will solve the problem. Last weekend I plugged each of them with rivets. I had to drill one of them out to 1/4" to get a rivet to fit the hole properly. It was oblonged and a mess but now it is sold and sealed. Now the hole is fixed permanently.

If the holes in the transom are for electronics and are in a cluster. Then use a transducer mounting plate and give it a coating of 3M 3500 and install it. This will seal up all the holes and give you a better surface for future electronics. I have 8!!!!!!!! Sheet metal screws epoxied into the stern of my boat. They will all be coming out and I have one of these plates to install. It will cover all of them and then my transducer will mount to it.


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## cdustinc (Oct 7, 2009)

Dan,

Thanks for the info. However, everything I've looked up regarding solid rivets says that I will need special tools to install them. Is there a less costly option? Also, would blind rivets be acceptable if they were coated with 3M 5200?

Thanks, again.


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## danmyersmn (Oct 7, 2009)

cdustinc said:


> Dan,
> 
> Thanks for the info. However, everything I've looked up regarding solid rivets says that I will need special tools to install them. Is there a less costly option? Also, would blind rivets be acceptable if they were coated with 3M 5200?
> 
> Thanks, again.



I installed mine with a 3lb sledge head on the formed side and banged the other side flat with a standard ole framing hammer. All you need is something flat and heavy on one side and someone to hold it then bang it flat with a hammer. If you buy the rounded head solid rivets then you would want the special tool if you want to keep the head rounded.


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## cdustinc (Oct 7, 2009)

Hit it with a hammer? That I can do!!!

Thanks, Dan.


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## cdustinc (Oct 12, 2009)

OK. So, I've stripped off the old paint from the outside (not fun) and will take off the paint on the inside this week, weather permitting.

As I'm getting ready to do this, my thoughts turn to decking options. I'm planning on installing some type of flat surface in the floor of the boat. I've searched the site and still cannot make up my mind. Here are the issues:

1) Weight is an issue. I need this boat to stay as light as possible for navigating the rivers here in East Tennessee.

2) Traction is an issue, as mosy fly fishing is done standing up.

3) DO NOT want carpet. (Ever tried to find a size 20 fly in a patch of carpet? #-o )

4) I need something that can be installed by a trained monkey, as I am generally not considered 'handy' in any way, shape, or form.


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## cdustinc (May 26, 2010)

I know it's been a while. Had to put the boat on the back burner, but now I'm back to the transmogrification at hand.

Got my Steelflex in yesterday. Working on her this weekend. Updates to follow...


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## cdustinc (Jun 23, 2010)

OK. It took a little longer than I expected, but finally started making some headway. Got the boat primed with self-etching primer.

Started applying Steelflex yesterday evening. :evil: Let me just say that it is my personal opinion that it would be easier to apply molasses with a canary feather that it is to apply Steelflex to a boat. Don't get me wrong, I was impressed with the outcome. But, my God.

So, I am now over 3/4 done with the Steelflex. I would have finished last night, but the Steelflex ate all of my foam rollers. I will finish with that part tonight, and hopefully, post some pics tomorrow.

Please, God. Let me finish with the Steelflex tonight. It's not macho to cry. [-o<


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## Troutman3000 (Jun 23, 2010)

Good luck buddy! Lets seee thsoe pics!


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## RBuffordTJ (Jun 23, 2010)

When I did mine I had a helper, one rolling, one mixing and pouring. It went pretty well. Heck we even had a camera woman...the pics are in my link below.

Bufford


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## Nevillizer (Jun 23, 2010)

Keep slugging away at it.


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## Home Grown Basser (Jun 23, 2010)

Looks like an awsome project. Goodluck!


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## cdustinc (Jun 28, 2010)

Sanded:




Primed:




Steelflexed + Paint:




Inside is primed. I'll work on painting it this week. 

Then install new transom board, new wood on tops of the bench seats, install new hardware. I also plan on replacing the gunwales.

Also, I'd like to go fishing...


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## Troutman3000 (Jun 28, 2010)

Steelflex looks great.


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## Sader762 (Jun 28, 2010)

The transducer plate is a great idea. I saved some bucks and bought a white cutting board made from plastic. The cost was $2.99 a pretty good savings compared to the transducer plate.


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## devilmutt (Jun 28, 2010)

Sader762 said:


> The transducer plate is a great idea. I saved some bucks and bought a white cutting board made from plastic. The cost was $2.99 a pretty good savings compared to the transducer plate.


How did the cutting board work out for you? I did the same on my boat, but I haven't had it in the water yet.


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## cdustinc (Jun 29, 2010)

You guys lost me...


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## devilmutt (Jun 29, 2010)

cdustinc said:


> You guys lost me...


I used a cutting board for mounting the transducer and for covering all of the old holes. I did this instead of buying one of the plates you mentioned.


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## Sader762 (Jun 30, 2010)

devilmutt said:


> Sader762 said:
> 
> 
> > The transducer plate is a great idea. I saved some bucks and bought a white cutting board made from plastic. The cost was $2.99 a pretty good savings compared to the transducer plate.
> ...




Worked great, my boat is all torn apart now for a rebuild though. I doubled the thickness up for added support.


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## raven174us (Jul 3, 2010)

Looks great! The cutting board was a great idea.


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