# 14' deep V sylvan mod



## fathead406 (Jan 12, 2010)

Well just joined here a couple days ago and seem to not be able to get enough of this! Started on my boat mod pretty new to the tinnie thing so bear with me. When you talk measurements I know its 14' long, do you get the width from the bottom floor or across the top? Would like to put on a deck possible ice chest livewell some storage and redo the wiring, so might be asking some questions. I will post some pics of my progress so far. Thanks, and look forward to chattin with everybody.


----------



## Brine (Jan 12, 2010)

Welcome.

Typically, the models are called out by there width at the floor. Look forward to seeing your boat.


----------



## fathead406 (Jan 12, 2010)

Thanks how do I go about posting pics on here I start to upload them and it kicks me off the page?


----------



## fathead406 (Jan 12, 2010)




----------



## fathead406 (Jan 13, 2010)




----------



## fathead406 (Jan 13, 2010)




----------



## fathead406 (Jan 13, 2010)




----------



## fathead406 (Jan 13, 2010)




----------



## fathead406 (Jan 13, 2010)




----------



## fathead406 (Jan 13, 2010)

well thanks to my better half, figured out how to get some pics on here. Any comments or suggestions would be helpful. Need to figure out some sort of support for my deck in the bow? Do you use 3/4" plywood for deck or 1/2"?


----------



## Rodnocker (Jan 13, 2010)

It may just be me, but I would put that battery in a battery box before mounting. Protects the battery and the boat.


----------



## SirLancelot (Jan 13, 2010)

Depending on how much weight you are willing to add to the boat and how much framing you do will determine how thick your plywood, but if it were me I would definitely go with the 3/4", you'll appreciate its durability and lack of flex in the long run. Boat looks good, post more pics as you go


----------



## danmyersmn (Jan 13, 2010)

before you get your floor on you may wish to replace the lag bolts with toggle bolts that are holding your wood to the aluminum bench seats. My boat started that way "lag bolt to aluminum bench" and the metal is just to thin to hold for long. Walking on the floor will slowly wollow out the thin metal and it will get sloppy. Toggle bolts will solve this issue.


----------



## fathead406 (Jan 13, 2010)

Thanks guys, going to have to get a couple of battery boxes. Do you agree with running 2 batteries one just for trolling and the other will be for lights and my graph. 

I think I will go with the 3/4" plywood trying to keep my budget low, but would rather be more sturdy than trying to cut corners, anybody have suggestions on how to fasten down the deck with the ability to take it off easy if needed?

With the toggle bolts would do you just drill a slightly larger hole to get the wing in? Just wondering how that would work with the foam in the seats? I appreciate the comments and will get more pics up as I go. Headed to Lowes tomorrow for more supplies and have a free day to work on Saturday can't wait!


----------



## russ010 (Jan 13, 2010)

I'm using 19/32" exterior ply for my decks... and it supports me fine (I'm around 185)... 3/4" will be more sturdy, but if you put an extra brace underneath it won't be a problem.. and I can tell ya now that that 3/4" ply is heavy. Whatever you do that, make sure that you use a sealer or deck paint on the wood... it will help out in the long run if it gets wet.

As far as the molly bolts, you are right... just drill a hole big enough for the wings to go down into and tighten it up..... I just re-read your post. I'm not sure how the bolts will work with the foam - I never used them. I just used 3&1/2" self tapping lag bolts (the largest that would fit in the hole of the seat bottom) and used that... I never had a problem with them


----------



## danmyersmn (Jan 13, 2010)

russ010 said:


> I'm using 19/32" exterior ply for my decks... and it supports me fine (I'm around 185)... 3/4" will be more sturdy, but if you put an extra brace underneath it won't be a problem.. and I can tell ya now that that 3/4" ply is heavy. Whatever you do that, make sure that you use a sealer or deck paint on the wood... it will help out in the long run if it gets wet.
> 
> As far as the molly bolts, you are right... just drill a hole big enough for the wings to go down into and tighten it up..... I just re-read your post. I'm not sure how the bolts will work with the foam - I never used them. I just used 3&1/2" self tapping lag bolts (the largest that would fit in the hole of the seat bottom) and used that... I never had a problem with them



The foam will push out of the way. Just shove them in until the wings are past the aluminum and when you try to pull them back out the wings will open up and shove the foam out of the way. You can skip the whole idea if you like. My wood was held in place with lag bolts for long enough for the untreated 2x4 to rot. But if you want to mount it and never come back then toggles will be the way to go.


----------



## bassnbrian (Jan 15, 2010)

looks great!
Alot like my build only much neater/polished in its form.

Nice work!


----------



## fathead406 (Jan 16, 2010)

Thanks Bassnbrian just gettin ready to add some more pics. Had a pretty good day today working on her.


----------



## fathead406 (Jan 16, 2010)




----------



## fathead406 (Jan 17, 2010)




----------



## fathead406 (Jan 17, 2010)




----------



## fathead406 (Jan 17, 2010)

I had bought a tm plug, I thought of putting the female plug in my dash and just plugging and unplugging the tm everytime. Any suggestions thinking I should just get another switch and have it wired that way? Instead of buying a bunch of wire found an old extension cord at my dads farm and used that to wire up lights and fish finder, also found some 10 awg for the tm. 10 should be big enough? Only about a foot and a half run?


----------



## danmyersmn (Jan 17, 2010)

10awg should be enought for a short run like that. Your decking is going to fall apart quickly if your planning to use chip board instead of plywood.


----------



## fathead406 (Jan 17, 2010)

Do you think it will even if I water seal, possible paint and then carpet it?


----------



## Truckmechanic (Jan 17, 2010)

fathead406 said:


> Do you think it will even if I water seal, possible paint and then carpet it?



I done the same thing when I first built mine...Now it has only lasted about 3 or 4 years and is very soft. My 55lb trolling motor moves it ALOT when even on low setting. I have to redo mine the spring before being able to fish with it.



fathead406 said:


> I had bought a tm plug, I thought of putting the female plug in my dash and just plugging and unplugging the tm everytime. Any suggestions thinking I should just get another switch and have it wired that way? Instead of buying a bunch of wire found an old extension cord at my dads farm and used that to wire up lights and fish finder, also found some 10 awg for the tm. 10 should be big enough? Only about a foot and a half run?



I used 10awg to wire my motor into a plug. Besure that you use a circuit break (at your battery) and I would go ahead and use the plugs also. I would go ahead and use the plugs, as it adds a nice touch and I feel like mine adds a "safety" feature to my motor. If I unplug it, it can't come on accidently and hurt someone it lifting anchor or something.


----------



## fathead406 (Jan 17, 2010)

Yeah I should have bought regular plywood, but now that I have this I'm gonna go ahead and use it. I have a cover for my boat and am able to keep it in a barn out of season so hopefully it will last a little while. I agree with the plug I am going to go ahead and use it I think it will add a nice touch. Did happen to pick up a 50 amp circuit breaker also. Thanks for the input.


----------



## bassnbrian (Jan 18, 2010)

what about adding epoxy to the particle board? (im no expert) WIll definately cost ya, but personally I hate redoing something that I thought was finished.


----------



## fathead406 (Feb 2, 2010)

well was finally able to get some more work done on the boat. Thanks to a real good friend thats a carpenter we were able to finish up the decking and get the carpet put down.


----------



## fathead406 (Feb 2, 2010)

some of the decking


----------



## fathead406 (Feb 2, 2010)

back deck


----------



## fathead406 (Feb 2, 2010)

doors cut out for storage locker and cooler


----------



## fathead406 (Feb 2, 2010)

getting ready for carpet


----------



## fathead406 (Feb 2, 2010)

carpeted rear deck with can holder and a door for battery and gas tank


----------



## fathead406 (Feb 2, 2010)

picture of front deck with cubby hole for 3 tackle trays just using up wasted space


----------



## fathead406 (Feb 2, 2010)

pic of bow with switch plate and trolling motor plug, another can holder on top next to the graph


----------



## fathead406 (Feb 2, 2010)

trolling motor not mounted yet but kinda gives me an idea of what it will look like


----------



## BloodStone (Feb 4, 2010)

*Why did you use 'chip board' (I.e. roofing & sub-flooring material)for the flooring instead of plywood? The stuff has a lousy reputation for holding together when exposed to wetness & not weathering well when unprotected. I've seen it painted & "waterproofed" & all that seem to accomplish was prolonging the inevitable disintegration. Not being critical just curious is all. Nice job on your project btw. Mine project is S-L-O-W getting launched-constant delays. :x Currently I am trying to install a propane wall furnace in the ole' workshop so I can actually work in there for prolonged periods of time without freezing my arse off. :lol: *


----------



## dyeguy1212 (Feb 4, 2010)

Looking very good... nice professional looking job 8)


----------



## fathead406 (Feb 5, 2010)

Well to be honest with you I bought the chipboard because it was a little cheaper and I am on a little bit of a budget. I wish I would of went with something defferent but I didnt so this is gonna work. I put on two coats of watersealer and the outdoor carpet glue should help seal it also. I have a cover for the boat witch is on whenever not in use plus indoor storage so really not worried about it getting really weathered. Thanks though bloodstone, I have a little space heater that I run off kerosene that seems to work pretty well. Thanks also dyeguy appreciate it. Shes getting closer to being done.


----------



## Froggy (Feb 10, 2010)

Wonderfull job, real professional looking, on the boards, you will certainely be able to use a couple of years without problems, then either sell or use as templates :wink:


----------



## fathead406 (Feb 10, 2010)

Thanks Froggy appreciate it.


----------



## flipte (Feb 15, 2010)

hey, amazing job on the boat. I have a boat very similar to yours and looking at doing the exact same setup. Have you tested the boat on the water? Do you find the boat top heavy or very stable? I would love to see an over shot of the whole inside if possible. thanks


----------



## fathead406 (Feb 16, 2010)

Thanks flipte, No I havnt had her on the water yet. She is very close to being finished up. Still ice on the pond here. Tell me again what kind of pic your looking for? I'll try and get that for sure. Thanks again.


----------



## flipte (Feb 16, 2010)

I'd like to see a full shot of your front and rear deck. Thanks


----------



## fathead406 (Feb 20, 2010)

Here is a pic of the front deck


----------



## fathead406 (Feb 20, 2010)

rear deck


----------



## fathead406 (Feb 20, 2010)

top of the bow


----------



## fathead406 (Feb 20, 2010)

closer look


----------



## fathead406 (Feb 20, 2010)

from the back


----------



## fathead406 (Feb 20, 2010)

another close up


----------



## fathead406 (Feb 20, 2010)

and my future fishing partner


----------



## fathead406 (Feb 20, 2010)

There are some more pics for ya flipte hopefully that helps you out. If you need more just say so.


----------



## bucktaker (Feb 21, 2010)

I like the mods you have made. I am wondering about stability though. I just picked up a 14r Sea nymph and plan on adding a front deck similar to yours. Please update us as soon as you can float test it.


----------



## Rat (Feb 22, 2010)

Great job on the mods fathead! 

I have two safety concerns I would like to point out for you. Both are easily fixed. 
1) Fuel tank. The red fuel tanks are not listed to be in an enclosed locker, they are designed to be in the open. Having said that, I know many people who run them in enclosed lockers, but at the very least please vent the locker, you will need a minimum of four vents, two high and two low as per USCG regulations. The size is determined by the size of the locker and the size of the fuel tank, but I would say for your boat probably at leas three inch vents are required. 

You have your battery and your fuel tank in the same locker, you DO NOT want an enclosed space explosion on your boat, please vent that locker. 

2) Anchor mate. Is see that you have your anchor mate mounted on the port side parallel to the beam. This will put you in a compromising position if anchored in heavy current or heavy seas. The force of the seas (waves) will be pounding you on the port side at almost 0 degrees, this will either cause you to drag anchor or could possibly swamp/capsize your boat. Basically you want you anchor rope to be in-line with the Longitudinal Centerline of the boat, or off just a few degrees, so that waves will break against the front of the boat where the boat is designed to handle them. 

I know you are on a budget, but your life and the lives of your passengers are worth far more than what it will take to correct these.


----------



## flipte (Feb 22, 2010)

Thanks for the extra shots! man that looks amazing, I hope mine will come out half as good lol.
Please let us know how it handles on the water.

How much weight do you think (aprox.) you added to the boat in wood?


----------



## D-Man (Feb 22, 2010)

Just a few minor corrections, no big deal. Awesome project man.I want to do a few things to my boat also,great job!


----------



## CABINETMAN (Feb 22, 2010)

[i would say he looks like a good partner now

quote="fathead406"]and my future fishing partner[/quote]


----------



## fathead406 (Feb 24, 2010)

Thanks guys for all the feedback, Hey Rat if you look back in the pics I think you can see that I cut out around where the motor is mounted to allow for venting, do you think I should put in another vent possibly on my hatch? And also would it be a better idea to mount my anchormate up in the front maybe close to my bow light then I suppose I could run my rope down through the front deck? Appreciate the comments though. 

Thanks guys for all the good comments she's not at all what I expected to her to be. Was supposed to be just carpeting the original seats, that is until I found this site! As for approx. weight flipte I'm guessing with deck and framing maybe 30-45lbs.? 

I hope he makes a good fishing partner Cabinetman cause his mother dosn't care to fish or eat fish! Too bad if you ask me. lol He was pretty darn excited when I put him in there.


----------



## PK1 (Apr 3, 2010)

have you had your boat in the water yet? just wondering how it handels? I'm thinking about doing the same thing to my boat but am wondering about stability and weight.


----------



## flipte (Apr 4, 2010)

Hey PK1, I had the same fear. If you put "legs" transfering the weight of you stepping on the top deck right to the bottom it will increase the stability.


----------



## PK1 (Apr 4, 2010)

Thanks Flipte, do you have pics on how how mounted your 'legs'? I'm having a hard time figureing out how best go about putting the front deck on....... Since my boat is a V bottom, do you recommend the legs going to the bottom of the boat at an angle? or striaght down to each side of the boat?


----------



## Toney100 (Apr 5, 2010)

nice looking boat I like the layout.


----------



## flipte (Apr 5, 2010)

My boat is a fiberglass deep v but it has a flat bottom. See my thread, i have some pics uploaded of the legs. I attached the legs (2x2) to the bottom of the casting deck with L-brackets then a flat 2x4 across the boat floor. I would try to put the 2x4 on the stronger points of the boat floor. leave the legs 1/4" maybe less longer than the height needed. then you can shim it down if your deck raises too much. play with it so that you have even weight spread over the boat. Any other questions dont hesitate to ask but put it on my thread that way were not hijacking this one.


----------

