# 1982 Johnson 15 HP - replacing pee indicator elbow fitting?



## CMOS (May 24, 2015)

Howdy All,

I need to replace this fitting. The old hose barb broke off from the original.

The problem is there is not enough clearance between the engine female fitting and the lower cowling for me to thread the darn thing in, or turn it even if I could.

What's the trick here?

Thanks,
CMOS


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## Charger25 (May 24, 2015)

Dude,you're screwed. Might have to loosen the bolts on the power head and lift it up some. It's 6 bolts I think.


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## Johnny (May 24, 2015)

a Yankee Engineer would put in a straight barb. Many turns with the open end wrench for sure.
careful not to cross thread the fitting.
drill a hole in the lower cowl for the plastic tube to go out of.


(sounds like a great idea on the drawing board from the peanut gallery)








.


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## SumDumGuy (May 24, 2015)

if possible you could plug the hole and move the fitting location to the top of the cylinder water jacket. easier access and better location.


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## Pappy (May 25, 2015)

Get yourself a base gasket and pull the powerhead. Time to change all the fuel hoses anyway and there is no better time to route them than when the powerhead is off. Oh, and grease the shift linkage under the carb while you are at it. 
See the bright side yet??


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## CMOS (May 27, 2015)

Pappy said:


> Get yourself a base gasket and pull the powerhead. Time to change all the fuel hoses anyway and there is no better time to route them than when the powerhead is off. Oh, and grease the shift linkage under the carb while you are at it.
> See the bright side yet??




This is what I am hearing thus far - pull the Power Head. :? 

Isn't there a way to loosen the bolts for the lower cowling enough to get access to those threads?

If the answer is no, is pulling the Power Head a major job? I would like to replace the T-stat, which just about almost needs a PH pull also . . .

Thoughts?

CMOS


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## cajuncook1 (May 27, 2015)

Here is a link to Leory's Rambling. He has some great articles with diagrams and some step by step instructions for 9.9hp and 15hp Evinrude and Johnson motors from 1974 to 2007.


https://www.leeroysramblings.com/Outboard%20Motor%20Related/OMC%20outboard%20related%20articles.html 


Advice: review the articles and get the tools necessary. Use plastic bag to place your parts in so you don't lose them. Use a digital camera to take pictures as you go, so if something trips you up while reassembling, you have the pictures to help you out.


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## CMOS (May 27, 2015)

cajuncook1 said:


> Here is a link to Leory's Rambling. He has some great articles with diagrams and some step by step instructions for 9.9hp and 15hp Evinrude and Johnson motors from 1974 to 2007.
> 
> 
> https://www.leeroysramblings.com/Outboard%20Motor%20Related/OMC%20outboard%20related%20articles.html
> ...




Cajun,

Thanks - I've read about every article on his site for my 9.5 and my "newer" 15 HP. In an email from him he states I have to remove the entire Powerhead, which I refuse to believe is the only option. There has got to be another way to get this darn $4 part in! I don't know if I'm up to tearing apart this entire thing just to get this one fitting in.

I've even considered using a large drill bit to drill a new hole in the lower cowling, then install a straight hose barb fitting that would port the water directly out the side of the engine as opposed to the very back where it ports to now.

I'm going to try to remove or loosen all the lower cowling bolts and see if I can get the cowling to shift enough to install this fitting.

IT'S A $4 DOLLAR PART!!!!!!

CMOS #-o


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## SumDumGuy (May 27, 2015)

SumDumGuy said:


> if possible you could plug the hole and move the fitting location to the top of the cylinder water jacket. easier access and better location.



:twisted: :twisted: :twisted:


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## Sinkingfast (May 27, 2015)

Probably only need one barb on fitting..might be short enough then to spin the fitting maybe?


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## Pappy (May 27, 2015)

You are beating yourself up over nothing. Pulling the powerhead on that engine is a piece of cake. One thing I missed in the other post is that while there replace the water tube grommets as they are known to create high speed overheat issues. You know you have no warning system so this is yet another good reason to pull it. You dont have to tear it all apart. Very easy to do.


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## CMOS (May 27, 2015)

Pappy said:


> You are beating yourself up over nothing. Pulling the powerhead on that engine is a piece of cake. One thing I missed in the other post is that while there replace the water tube grommets as they are known to create high speed overheat issues. You know you have no warning system so this is yet another good reason to pull it. You dont have to tear it all apart. Very easy to do.



"Water Tube Grommets?"

Where are these located?


CMOS


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## Charger25 (May 28, 2015)

they are where the water tube goes into the power head and in to the water pump on the lower unit. Like what Pap said its really not that big of a deal. I know what your thinking but trust this board there are alot of knowledgeable people on here. I equate it to going off a high diving board for the first time, ya climb the latter, walk out to the end of the board ........then look down and think, OH CRAP what the heck did 'I get myself into ?!?! All I can say is you can do what I did, take pics of each step so as to get familiar with what your doing and how it all goes together. Belive me ya cant take enough pics.  Once ya get it done and get it done right you will be able to step back pop a tab on a cold one and say " yeah I did that " Look at it this way, that lil 8 hp I got, well if yall on the east coast remember hurricane Isabel , that motor was swamped in salt water and buried in Rappahannock river mud. Yeah the block was toast as was the carb. But I got a block off ebay , a 6 hp carb , took the jets out of the old carb and put it in the new 6 hp carb , took the whole thing apart and cleaned out the mud , reassembled it all .. and I had NEVER done that before ! I trust that lil rascal more than any other one I've put together out of spare parts. Thats why I call em Frankenstein rudes :LOL2:


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## Daretofish (May 29, 2015)

I just pulled the powerhead on my Johnson 15 for the 1st time, as they said, not that difficult, I replaced the gasket, grommet, and a seal at the bottom of the exhaust tube and it went back together fine.


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## earl60446 (May 29, 2015)

Cut off the barbed fitting and thread the hole to accept another fitting after you screw it in. Just a thought, not saying I would do that but I might. ACE near me has a lot of fittings, might be one near you too.
Tim


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## CMOS (May 29, 2015)

I should have some time this weekend to play with this motor . . .


CMOS


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## CMOS (Jun 11, 2015)

SUCCESS!

I was able to install the little fitting without removing the PH.

I removed the bolts to all 3 motor mounts, which allowed the lower cowling to move just about a full 1/4" in a direction in my favor. However, at first I still did not have the clearance to rotate the fitting, as the hose barb would still hit the cowling.

I cut off one segment of the hose barb and BINGO! I got it threaded.

Now that I have these bolts loose, and the flywheel, off I think I'm going to pull the head off so I can replace the T-stat. Removing the head is going to be easier than trying to just remove the Head Water Cover.

Thanks for all the help.

CMOS


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## Charger25 (Jun 12, 2015)

Don't try to reuse the power head to base gasket........it will leak, ask me how I know :mrgreen:


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## CMOS (Jun 12, 2015)

Charger25 said:


> Don't try to reuse the power head to base gasket........it will leak, ask me how I know :mrgreen:



Charger - didn't even need to remove the PH however I NEVER reuse gaskets! :wink: 


CMOS


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