# 1967 or '68 MONTGOMERY WARDS~SEA KING~14' V-HULL CONVERSION



## radgumbo (May 31, 2012)

Hi…I’ve been busy gathering information, ideas and how to’s from various forums, the internet etc. and have finally decided (for the most part) what I want from my boat conversion. The big question for me is, “what year and make is my boat?” When I bought it last year I was told by the previous owner (not the original owner) that the boat might be a Montgomery Wards boat but, the title has it listed as a SEARS’s model. I'm going with Montgomery Wards...probably built by StarCraft. All the photo's I've found that look most like my boat are StarCraft boats or Montgomery Wards "Sea King" of the 60's. If you’ve ever needed to search for information on older boats you know how confusing it is to find any information and even the parts dept. people aren’t much help at times. I’ve found out the hard way about this in trying to locate parts for my Mercury Merc110 9.8 hp outboard.

I’m a novice at boat ownership although; I’ve been around them all my life. My Grandparents had a cottage on the Chesapeake Bay (Cedarhurst, Md.) and I spent many weekends and summers there. We would crab off the back of my Grandfathers boat and literally catch bushels of crabs right in the little harbor…it seems now the one’s we kept were all #1’s. He would go out on the Bay with a friend of his and come back in the morning (after fishing all night) with Rockfish 30”+ and my Grandmother would clean them and prepare them for the freezer. Lots of fond memories of that little cottage but, this forum is for tin boat conversions and this thread is mine.

I’ll update regularly and always be open to your suggestions and ideas. I’ll be glad to answer your questions if I’m asked. Primarily, I’ll use my boat in fresh water lakes and rivers but, I’ll be very tempted to hit the brackish salt water of the lower Potomac or the protected coves of the Bay…I love them Crabs! So here I go…bound to do the best job I can on a never before attempted project boat…my first. I expect to do a lot of things extremely well and I’m sure, some not so well. I plan on overkill…that’s just me, ALWAYS. It’s not so much about cost as quality of the work and materials. It’s about learning…and becoming familiar with the products and how to use them. It’s really about experience, so that my next boat will be something (really) special. One thing is certain, when I’m finished with this one, whoever I end up selling it to next year or the year after, will have a great boat for themselves, done right.

At first (& still), I wanted to lose a bench seat (the one in front of the tiller). Having posted on an earlier forum thread, I listened to the overwhelming advice of my peers and decided not to structurally change anything. I still feel that losing that seat could be done safely since 90% of all the boats with my dimensions are almost always 3 seats…where mine is 4. 

WHAT I PLAN ON DOING:

I’ll be adding a front deck with storage and a place for a cooler/livewell. I’ll also put in a floor with carpet. I will bottom paint (Aluthane-gray) the hull as well as adding a top coat (Rust-O-leum primer & white top coat) stripe/band along the top edge at the gunwales. Between the bottom coat and stripe I plan on polishing the aluminum with Sharkhide products. Inside, I’ll Gluvit the rivets & seams then use the leftover Aluthane on the inside hull. If I like the color I’ll leave it alone….otherwise, I will paint it (Rust-O-leum top coat) Light Gray. Under the floor I will use foam garage foam tiles to deaden the sound and I will use ½” marine plywood for the floor and ¾” plywood for the deck. I will use 1 ½” aluminum angle & 1 ½” aluminum square tubing for framing. 

I’ve done a lot of research on the products I plan on using but, I realize there’s tons of others…while money was not a major concern based on the size of my boat…I did limit myself somewhat by saving money by shopping smart. 

Example: 1/8” x 1 ½” x 8’ aluminum angle at LOWES costs $38 each + tax (& gas)…I bought it from Online Metals for $13 each + shipping (and I went online a found a coupon code for 10% off my order). Gluvit (gal.) regularly runs $130 + shipping…I found it for $100 & shipping was half as much as anyone else. So, you see that money is a concern but with a small boat like this it’s easy to use high quality products and still save a lot of green. 

Another big debate for me was the bottom coat. Originally, Steelflex was my choice. Then Gatorglide G2…then another epoxy based product…then…
I found out about Aluthane. Since aluminum contracts a big issue with the epoxies is adhesion…Aluthane expands and contracts with the metal and is made for aluminum in particular. There are those who will prefer their epoxy but, because of cost and the issue of adhesion I went with Aluthane…$32 qt. vs. $165+ for enough epoxy to do the job. Aluthane also can be a barrier coat so painting over it is fine (with any oil based enamel). Additionally, it supposedly goes a long, long way. We’ll see… 

It’s taken about two weeks to get everything ordered (and delivered) and I’m beginning my conversion with optimism and hope. “I hope I don’t f*** it up!” So, here’s the “before” photos and the first of my “during” photos…your comments, suggestions, ideas, questions, constructive criticism and support will be appreciated…except for the constructive criticism which I’ll most likely ignore…lol. 

“BOATER DONE!”

…that was bad.


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## radgumbo (May 31, 2012)

I forgot to add that I will be replacing the transom...(all of it). I think the reinforcing job that was done was poor at best...but, it worked for who ever did it and I might not attempt it this season...maybe something for next year. The 1/4" aluminum plate will run me $135 cut to size and I'll install a (nylon?) drain tube to keep it clean...plus I want to weld (seal) all the bolt holes first before replacing the transom board with oak. I'll seal the wood with Rust-O-leum Spar Varnish. All the fasteners will be 316 Stainless Steel & aluminum rivets used on the framing system.

There's a great tool kit (rivet kit) available from Bullfrog...it goes for $149 plus shipping. You can closely approximate it through Harbor Freight for under $40. I'm not sure of the quality of the Bullfrog gun but the same type of rivet gun from Harbor Freight seems well made enough...I'll let you know how it works. My question concerns the type of pop rivet Bullfrog uses...I'm pretty sure it's 3/16" but. I'll have to double check their video again to see if I can answer that question myself. 

I want to install hatches mainly because they look better than most home made versions and the cost difference between them. By the time you buy your hinges, pulls and aggravate yourself over a clean fit your could buy them ready-made and be done with it for not much more than DIY versions. 

Okay...enough talking. I'd better get busy...see ya.


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## DaveInGA (May 31, 2012)

Thanks for posting. Looking forward to seeing some of your work. I have a bigger boat and went more high end, but the results are the same to me. I like the small boats too, as I wanted a small boat until the wife put the kebosh on it.



radgumbo said:


> There's a great tool kit (rivet kit) available from Bullfrog...it goes for $149 plus shipping. You can closely approximate it through Harbor Freight for under $40. I'm not sure of the quality of the Bullfrog gun but the same type of rivet gun from Harbor Freight seems well made enough...I'll let you know how it works. My question concerns the type of pop rivet Bullfrog uses...I'm pretty sure it's 3/16" but. I'll have to double check their video again to see if I can answer that question myself. I have the HF rivet guns, both the heavy duty and the pneumatic and have been using them on my boat restoration. They work great. If you get the pneumatic, be sure and clean it out before filling it with oil. Other than that, it works like a champ.
> 
> I want to install hatches mainly because they look better than most home made versions and the cost difference between them. By the time you buy your hinges, pulls and aggravate yourself over a clean fit your could buy them ready-made and be done with it for not much more than DIY versions.
> But they look much better than the plastic ready made hatches to me. But in a small boat, it may just not matter, especially if practicality is the objective.


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## DaveInGA (May 31, 2012)

radgumbo said:


> Hi…I’ve been busy gathering information, ideas and how to’s from various forums, the internet etc. and have finally decided (for the most part) what I want from my boat conversion. Always a good idea to research before you start. Learn from the mistakes of others, etc.
> 
> The big question for me is, “what year and make is my boat?” When I bought it last year I was told by the previous owner (not the original owner) that the boat might be a Montgomery Wards boat but, the title has it listed as a SEARS’s model. If you’ve ever needed to search for information on older boats you know how confusing it is to find any information and even the parts dept. people aren’t much help at times. I’ve found out the hard way about this in trying to locate parts for my Mercury Merc110 9.8 hp outboard.Can't help ya here, but someone here will come along and do so.
> 
> ...


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## radgumbo (May 31, 2012)

Hi Dave...I lived in Statesboro & Augusta back in '79-'81...I miss the BBQ I used to get in Statesboro. In response to the foam & bilge water...the foam is really high density stuff and won't absorb water very well. Besides my objective is to be able to remove the flooring after each outing and dry them. 3 coats of Gluvit over the plywood before the carpet goes down. Sure, eventually it will need to be replaced but it will last years before that happens. I'll cover my boat after each use...I don't anticipate much of a problem. 
Originally I thought of doing the hatches myself. After looking at all the mods photos I could find I began to see a problem with the DIY...how to cover it with carpet so that it looks good. It's usually the hinges that cause the problem or not wrapping the carpet properly. BassPro has some decent hatches and they look pretty substantial...I'm gonna go there this weekend and take a look at them. I might still DI myself if I can find a good way to wrap the carpet and figure out how to work around the hinges...

The carpet is a must for me...my wife said so. I bought some really good quality marine carpet from LOWES and it looks great. It's going to work really well with the color scheme and be soft of the feet as well as providing some additional sound deadening. 

Here's the link for the Aluthane. Whats really great is that if you prefer to use high quality epoxies you can get them here as well at half the price...check it out. https://www.epoxyproducts.com/aluthane.html

The site is huge and has a lot of information. I found it difficult to navigate and figure out the layout...but, after you get the hang of it there's ton's of information on there and the guy who I emailed and asked some questions, gave me the answers I needed and let me in on the fact that manufacturers slap "Marine" on the product name and charge twice as much...proof will be in the pudding but, the Aluthane sounds like it's going to work well for me. Maybe I'll do a YouTube video when I apply it...lol. 

Hey, thanks for the comments and keep in touch.


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## BackWoodsTracker (Jun 1, 2012)

For finding parts for that Merc, try
https://store.oldmercs.com/category_s/22.htm


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## radgumbo (Jun 2, 2012)

Hi BackWoods...that's a great site for parts and info. I was able to get a water pump kit from them. They have been the only site I've found with parts for my Merc. Otherwise, you have to go salvage & boneyards. Thanks.
Here's some photos of my Merc. I built the motor stand from some plans I found posted online...when I can find the link, I'll post it. I'd love to find a supplier of Mercury decals that has them with the background embossed. I would prefer exact duplicates of the originals...true OEM.


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## radgumbo (Jun 2, 2012)

So far, it seems I'm doing most of the posting on my own thread...lol. I needed to add that I'm beginning to think I do indeed have a Montgomery Wards boat....probably built by StarCraft. MW's boats & motors were called "Sea Kings". It's most likely a 1967 or 1968 model...I believe the fella I bought it from said 1967. I bought a 1968 Spring/Summer SEARS catalog off of eBay. My boat is not listed. The closest one that resembles my boat is rated for 650 lbs. The photo's I've found online by searching...(the boats that most closely resemble mine) are the Wards & StarCraft boats. So, I'll try for a 1968 Montgomery Wards catalog and we'll go from there. The hunt goes on...reminds me of The History Channels, "The History Detectives"!


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## radgumbo (Jun 2, 2012)

I had written a 4+ paragraph explanation of the work I've done so far today and what & how I plan on doing it...then my laptop froze up...s**t! So here's a few pics instead. I'll catch up with the narrative later. Gotta go to Lowes for some 1/4" plywood...


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## radgumbo (Jun 3, 2012)

Well...I was able to cut my hatches. It clouded up so I put away my tools...of course, the sun came back out. I might get a coat of Gluvit on all the wood later although, I'd prefer to do it outdoors. I'm going to attempt the hatches and not buy prefab...Dave in GA got me thinking...I'm going with carpet covered hatches & stainless steel piano hinges and some kind of pull tab. I might do stainless steel pulls...I haven't gotten that far yet.

The cooler is going to be dual purpose...first as a food/drink cooler. I'll get the Bass Pro Shops, "Catch Saver" aerator kit so I can convert it over to a livewell if need be. To be honest, I eat what I catch so, a livewell might not be needed often enough to rationalize a permanently mounted livewell. Everything I'm doing is given careful consideration to added weight. I estimate I have 650-750 lbs. max. weight limit. Since, I don't know for sure we'll go with 650 lbs. to be safe. 

I posted some links for materials in the material links forum. I'm going to check out some of the posts in there that other's have posted. Here's a few photos from the work I did today. I should be able to finish the floors and deck by next weekend. Once that's finished, I'll do the impeller to my Merc 110...then I'll hit the water. 

I'll save the bottom coat and hull paint until after I get an outing or two under my belt. The prep work & painting will keep her out of the water for a couple of weeks and I'm getting excited to do some fishing.


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## Gators5220 (Jun 3, 2012)

Nice boat man, what kinda fishing do you have planned for it?


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## radgumbo (Jun 3, 2012)

Hi...thanks and as this is my first boat I'll be fishing lakes and some river fishing so, I suppose bass, cat fish, crappie, and anything else that I can get in the boat. In salt water I love Blue fish, flounder and CRABS! I won't get in salt much with this boat...but, my next one will be primarily salt water. I want to enjoy this boat for a couple of seasons and then move on.


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## radgumbo (Jun 7, 2012)

Here's a sketch of the planned boat mods. I had to order more aluminum angle for enclosing the transom and (2) side storage areas. I'm thinking of covering all vertical panels with vinyl and using 1/4" plywood...i.e. front/back bench seat panels & side storage panels. For the tops/hatches I'll use 1/2" marine plywood. I ordered all the 316 stainless steel fasteners and aluminum blind rivets for the project. I also ordered my marine pulls for the hatches and piano hinges. 

By next weekend I should be deep into the mod and I'm excited to get started again. I'll post photos as I go along...this weekend I'll start cleaning up the hull and interior and get ready for bottom coat and paint.


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## fool4fish1226 (Jun 8, 2012)

Coming along nicely =D>


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## radgumbo (Jul 23, 2012)

Well, I'm just about ready to glue on some carpet...the past two months have been hectic and I was unable to work on the boat until the past weekend. My laptop took a dump and so I don't have the photos I want to upload at my disposal. I'll have some to post soon but, until then I will update the progress so far. I put 2-3 coats of Gluviton all marine plywood for the floors and deck, hatches and seats. I used all of the gluvit (1-Gal.) in doing so. The Gluvit cost about $130 online. I also sanded the hull and applied Aluthane on the bottom...made specifically for aluminum and that cost about $50 for a qt. Two coats covered the bottom but, only a little left over...by the next day it had dried up...gotta use it up in a day. Both the Gluvit and Aluthane was easy to use and the results look great. 

I'm giving the Gluvit an extra day to cure out and I'll be adhering the carpet in a couple of days. The only things left to do are the carpet, piano hinges for hatches, electrical, all aluminum framing for the job and the two storage compartments. I've used all of the two sheets of marine plywood 1/2" and 3/4". I'll need another sheet of 1/2" plywood to complete the storage compartments...at $69 p/4' x 8' sheet, it's pretty expensive...the 3/4" was $89 p/sheet. 

I knew that this was really going to be a labor of love and a great learning experience (for the next boat) but, to anyone just starting their own conversion...it's pretty expensive. I found two sharp looking seats at WalMart online for $44 each. The peds I want are another $100 each. To this point I have about 2 grand in the boat but, that includes the purchase price of $700 for boat, motor & trailer. The old 1965 Merc had a bad impeller and after much searching I finally got the parts I needed for the job. They were wrong and I had to Dremel the slot in the impeller to make it fit...but, I'm having some difficulty getting the lower unit to slide back into place...I'll get to that later. Besides, I will probably look to replace it with a 15hp motor which is the max. rating for my boat. With the added weight of the materials used in the conversion I think that's the way to go. I also read that the older Merc's were kinda weird to work on. I don't know about that but, parts have been a problem and finding someone knowledgeable to get the correct parts (even after I give them the serial number) has proven too time consuming to make it practical. I'm looking for a 70's-80's Johnson or Evinrude to power it along.

I'll have those photo's up in a day or two so, until then...see ya.


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