# My first project. 1963 Alumacraft 16' V



## millertime4242 (May 29, 2010)

Well the remodel has begun! I'm planning on doing this project in a couple weeks, so I'll hopefully have some updates soon. I finished gutting the boat this morning, and have since put up the first support for the front casting deck. I'm putting it a bit higher than recommended, but that's where I want it. I plan on installing a rod locker, battery box, storage compartments, switch panel, all the electric, trolling motor mount, and rear deck. We'll see what the budget allows for. The pictures below are of the boat this morning. I have since removed the rear seat and began on the front deck. I'll load pics as I go.


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## koda (May 30, 2010)

looks like a start. what are you using for the frame(wood)? going to be nice!


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## wolfmjc (May 30, 2010)

good luck cant wait to see how it turns out...


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## millertime4242 (May 31, 2010)

Well I'm a few days into it now, and I've made some good progress. I had a drawing on the computer, but once I got to the boat things had to change a little due to some vertical supports being needed. I prob spent a total of an hour each day just visualizing where I should put everything :lol: But one good idea I had today was to have a slide out cooler under the deck. This way if you put ice in it, you can easily pull it out, without having to open a hatch and pull it straight out. I also like the idea of a sliding cooler because you can take it in the house, pack it up and just slide it into its spot in the boat. 

On the right side of the boat I have put a rod locker that will have a decklid, middle right is a Rubbermaid storage container that will have a decklid, Middle left is the sliding cooler, then on the left side I will leave space to slide in the oars, net, and extra poles if need be. I have also made a place for the batteries, I still have to build the box that will hold them, in the pic the plastic battery housings are just sitting on the supports. I also plan to build a recessed tray for the foot control of the trolling motor. I know you can buy these and they just slip right in, but I think I will be cheaper to make one, plus it's more fun  I am also installing a pvc pipe that will run under the floor from the front to back and will house the wires. I need to get a hole saw to cut a few holes. The last pic is a close up of the brackets I made using rivets and AL angle. Check out the pictures below, let me know if you see some problems! or things you like! I have a few more supports to build up front, then it's off to the rear deck!


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## millertime4242 (Jul 8, 2010)

Well it has been awhile since I updated this post, but some progress has been made on my boat. I was able to complete the framing of the front deck. It includes a rod locker, battery hatch with room for 2 batteries, storage hatch housing a large rubbermaid container, one small hatch for smaller objects, a cutout that allows the oars and net to slide under the deck, a recessed area for the foot control of the bow mount trolling motor, and a area to slide a coleman cooler into. I also ran a pvc pipe from front to back allowing power to get to the back of the boat. In the floor you can also see where I installed two seat bases. I have to thank my dad who helped out a bunch. He's retired carpenter and can really make things look good (notice all the bases are recessed into the decking, which does away with the raised area over the base when the carpet is installed) We also installed a access hatch in the recessed area for the foot control that allows me access to the bow of the boat.

All the framing was done with 2x2's. The decking was 3/4" ply and the carpet was from Menards with the marine backing. The hinges I uses were aluminum hinges from McMaster Carr. They were the cheapest I found and the cost of shipping was awesome. I bought one six foot and one three foot hinge. I plan on mounting the trolling motor this weekend, I installed the base for it tonight. I also need to wire my switch panel i bought. Right now the only electric items on the boat are running lights, depth finder, and trolling motor (which I'll connect directly to the battery). The 40hp mercury is pull start (for right now  I have not started on the back deck as of yet. Below are the pictures, as well as one more I found of the boat after I gutted everything. Also, my dad was able to locate some marine rivets, which allowed me to plug some of the holes the boat had accumulated over the years, as well as replace a few of the regular rivets I put in it. 

I do have a couple questions for you guys. Do i need to put an inline fuse or breaker between the battery and trolling motor? If so, what size would I need? I'll be installing a 55lb MoterGuide 12v. Also, when I charge my battery, do I need to disconnect everything from it first? Thanks for any info!


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## bandgeek1263 (Jul 9, 2010)

I would recommend a circuit breaker. A 30 amp inline on the positive lead would be ideal. 

I do believe that you have to disconnect everything before you charge your battery. 

That looks great. I hope you sealed your wood...? Very cool cooler idea. Makes me want a really deep boat.


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## ihavenoideawhattoput (Jul 9, 2010)

WOW!!!!!


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## breachless (Jul 9, 2010)

This may sound like a "duh" question to a lot of you, but when you built your floor, did you just kind of cut the wood to measure and basically just let it rest on the bottom of the boat or is it attached somehow? 

The boat looks fantastic by the way!


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## koulaid (Jul 9, 2010)

Is the recessed foot tray for your trolling motor pedal?


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## millertime4242 (Jul 11, 2010)

breachless said:


> This may sound like a "duh" question to a lot of you, but when you built your floor, did you just kind of cut the wood to measure and basically just let it rest on the bottom of the boat or is it attached somehow?
> 
> The boat looks fantastic by the way!



I wanted to just have a floating floor, that way I could remove it easily if I wanted, but it proved harder than I thought to cut the floor, carpet it, and slide it in. Plus once I got the back deck built I thought it might be a little hard to remove, so I decided to screw it down. The carpet was cut a 1/4" to 1/2" long and tucked in along the sides with a putty knife. 



koulaid said:


> Is the recessed foot tray for your trolling motor pedal?


Yes, I got my trolling motor working yesterday and plan on mounting it tonight. I'll get some pics up when I'm done.

I'm also going to a boat service place today to see if they will sell me a 40-50 amp inline circuit breaker for my trolling motor.

I also plan on painting all the exposed wood under the deck with enamel paint to protect it further. Anyone have any suggestions of paint?


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## millertime4242 (Jul 26, 2010)

Maiden Voyage! Everything went well. I have a lot to learn when it comes to boat control :shock: but I had a good time. Caught a few fish to boot!!!


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## millertime4242 (Jul 26, 2010)

The trolling motor is a 12v 46lb thrust Motorguide Pro Series (even though the outside says its a Brute, we switched some parts because the Brute had a bent shaft, long story). But that 46lb thrust moves that boat around no problem! I ran most of the day on speed 1.


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## breachless (Jul 26, 2010)

It looks fantastic! How is it for stability up front?


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## millertime4242 (Jul 27, 2010)

Actually it is very stable! I have an uncle with a 14' v-bottom where he mounted a push pole stand above his motor (lives on the flats in FL) and the stability is okay in that, so i wasn't real worried. But I was actually surprised at just how stable my boat is. I've been on a lot of bass boats and it just under their stability. The beam is 66" at the widest point, about 3/4 the way back in the front deck.


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## Fish Fighter (Aug 6, 2010)

Thank You for your post, Finally some one has the same boat I have. Except for mine is a 1964. You have given me some good Ideas, and hopefully you could answer some questions I have.
Did you lose any of the structural strength when you cut the seats out? That is what bothers me the most about cutting the supports out from side to side. I was thinking about 2x4's on top of the seats and decking on top of that.


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## millertime4242 (Aug 11, 2010)

I was not afraid of losing any structural support because the deck and deck bracing act as a support just like the seat did. Actually, I think there is more support now, at least up front, than with the seat. Once I get the rear deck done, which will have at least 3 horizontal braces from side to side, it too will give more support than just the seat. Hope that makes sense. Yes, I have a floor in the middle now instead of the middle seat, but I think with the two decks, it will still be plenty of support for the middle of the boat.


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## Fish Fighter (Aug 13, 2010)

Thanks for the reply, hope to see more new pictures soon.

Your supports on the sides, did you rivet them through the outside wall of the boat? And how are Marine grade rivets differant
from regular aluminum rivets?


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## Fish Fighter (Aug 13, 2010)

How long is the shaft on your trolling motor?


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## header (Aug 20, 2010)

WOW, very nice deck indeed. You'll need some kind of gate to keep the cooler in place while traveling. Did I miss it in your posts or did you not paint the decking before you put on the carpet over the wood w/o paint? Even with marine carpet the water will get to the decking.


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## millertime4242 (Aug 20, 2010)

Fish Fighter- Yes, I popped riveted the rivets to the outside of the boat. Marine rivets have a sealed center in them, unlike regular rivets that will leak through the center post. Both can be applied using a regular rivet gun. I also put silicone in the hole before I ran the rivet through, then put a bit on the outside of the rivet also, just trying to make it as waterproof as possible. Will they leak? Maybe....but we'll see. Haven't been out in the elements yet to test them.

I think the shaft on the trolling motor is 42" I'll have to double check that tonight however when I get home. Whatever it is, it is plenty long. I had to raise it up on my first trip out because of the weed choked lake I was fishing.

Header-Actually, we built the compartment around the cooler so tight, that the friction of the cooler against the carpet keeps it in place. Worked out pretty good. And no I did not paint the wood. We did use Thompsons water sealer, so hopefully that works. The boats is in the garage when not in use, which is good. Hopefully I can get at least a handful of good years from it.


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## MassFisherman (Aug 20, 2010)

What kind of seat bases did you use? 

I love how you covered them up with the carpet...nice clean look....Let me know how you did this...

Love it!!


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## Fish Fighter (Aug 22, 2010)

Still waiting on the finished product pic's... :beer: 

How much did the decking dampen sound from what it used to be? My boat, which is just like yours, is a bit loud when out fishing. I was thinking about adding some type of foam on the walls under my decking.

Also, do you like the carpet you chose, if you had it to do over would you choose the same carpet?

I appreciate your responses, I just haven't seen a boat just like mine on here and you are helping me answer alot of questions. Along with giving me another bunch of Ideas.


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## millertime4242 (Sep 3, 2010)

I'm waiting on the finished pictures too! :roll: Now that I have the floor and front deck done I can't help but take it out and fish! I've had it out a handful of times now and I absolutely love it. Except for having to sit on a five gallon bucket to drive #-o But I might take this weekend off from fishing and see if I can make progress on the back deck. 

The seat bases I used were from bass pro, I think the Lock n Pin ones. Since I had to buy four (one for the front deck, two in the floor, and one more going on the back deck) it got a bit pricey. To make the carpet go over the bases, a router was was used on the deck/floor in the shape and depth of the base. Then screwed down and carpeted over to make a clean look. I've seen real bass boats from the manufacturer that don't provide this feature, but I think it makes it look really nice and clean. 

As far as the noise...I can't compare as I never had the boat out before I did the conversion. With all the bracing I do think it helps and haven't noticed it being a problem thus far. 

I do like the carpet I chose. Mainly because of the price :lol: and because it looked good. Got it at Menards. It does get really hot though in the sun, I mean REALLY hot! That is one of the down sides, but it seems to be durable. Right now its covered in dog hair as I had my lab out last time with me :roll: 

Next step is getting the motor to run properly, having a little fuel issue that I need to work on. But it gets me from A to B, so I can't complain!


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## Fish Fighter (Sep 3, 2010)

I know the feeling, I just need to get started on my boat and can't quit fishing long enough to get it going.

I don't think there is a carpet out there that doesn't get hot. Especially down here in Georgia!

My other big hold-up is saving up for the Bow mounted trolling motor. I don't want to build a deck and everything else and not be able to sit up front and troll with it. Now I have a transom mount trolling motor and have to fish and do everything from the back of the boat. ](*,) 

Maybe this Winter I can start on it and have it ready to go by spring time. Down here you can boat fish year round, but during the slow months I think I can get it done.

Good luck with your motor, I have the original 64 Johnson 18hp that came with the boat and it still purrrs like a kitten.

Thanks for the info, looking forward to you getting rid of that bucket! :beer:


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## 5SF-Doc (Sep 4, 2010)

Man that looks great I have a 16 ft I was wanting to do something like tht with, how much did all that run you? An question is your motor a short shaft cause I picked up a short shaft when my boat needs a long shaft an I need to make some adjustments to make it work


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## tdub (Sep 5, 2010)

Carpet turned out great. I like the cooler idea. And also the recessed trolling motor foot control is a great idea. It is turning out to be a great project, keep us posted.


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## millertime4242 (Sep 7, 2010)

Well I made a lot of progress on the rear deck over the weekend. Built all the supports and cut the deck and deck lids. Hopefully I can continue to work on it this week and have it ready soon. Heading up to Wisconsin Friday night for a club tourney, so not sure if I'll get to finish it this week. I took pics and I'll post them tonight. I did run into one problem, and that was how get my fuel tank in and out while keeping the configuration of deck lids that I wanted. Well after about two hours staring at the boat ](*,) I finally came up with the solution. Hard to describe without the pics so I'll wait until tonight. Thanks for all the kind words, it's turning out to be one hell of a FISHING MACHINE!!!!



5SF-Doc said:


> Man that looks great I have a 16 ft I was wanting to do something like tht with, how much did all that run you? An question is your motor a short shaft cause I picked up a short shaft when my boat needs a long shaft an I need to make some adjustments to make it work



Ya know...I'm not sure  I'm not to familiar with outboards, the one on the boat is the one that came with it. The bottom of the prop extends about a foot below the bottom of the boat, so I'm thinking it's a short shaft. I know the difference is the length of the shaft (enter joke here) but I'm not sure as what length qualifies it as short or long. Maybe you can let me know???


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## millertime4242 (Sep 7, 2010)

5SF-Doc said:


> Man that looks great I have a 16 ft I was wanting to do something like tht with, how much did all that run you?



I'm not sure yet, but I have all the receipts. I'm not sure if I want to add it up though, because then I'll have a definite number to tell the wife, and right now I can still throw around some smaller numbers :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## Fish Fighter (Sep 7, 2010)

5SF-Doc said:


> Man that looks great I have a 16 ft I was wanting to do something like tht with, how much did all that run you? An question is your motor a short shaft cause I picked up a short shaft when my boat needs a long shaft an I need to make some adjustments to make it work




I have the same boat, it takes a long shaft motor due to how deep the boat is.


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## 5SF-Doc (Sep 7, 2010)

Yea I figured that out after I bought a nice motor an it's a short shaft so looks like I'm cutting the back done


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## millertime4242 (Sep 7, 2010)

Here's the progress on the rear deck. Need to put Thompsons on the wood and then carpet.


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## Fish Fighter (Sep 8, 2010)

Looks great! 

I was thinking about one full width compartment door across the back with a piano hinge to get my fuel tank in and out easily.


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## millertime4242 (Sep 8, 2010)

Fish Fighter said:


> I was thinking about one full width compartment door across the back with a piano hinge to get my fuel tank in and out easily.



I was also thinking of doing this. But I liked the idea of only opening one half if I was sitting on the other or had something sitting on one side. So I made the front lids wide enough so my fuel tank can slide in and out. The tank can't fit through the back lids, due to their size and the tray/shelf thing on the transom. I also had to space the vertical supports around the fuel tank for the same reason. I'll try and take a pic with the fuel tank in.


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## millertime4242 (Sep 8, 2010)

5SF-Doc said:


> Yea I figured that out after I bought a nice motor an it's a short shaft so looks like I'm cutting the back done



Is the back of your boat like mine with it already lowered 9-10 inches?


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## Fish Fighter (Sep 8, 2010)

I see you have what looks like a pvc pipe coming from under the floor, are you running your electrical through that pipe to the front?


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## millertime4242 (Sep 8, 2010)

Fish Fighter said:


> I see you have what looks like a pvc pipe coming from under the floor, are you running your electrical through that pipe to the front?



Exactly. I also have a thin rope running through it in case I need to run another wire I have something to pull it through with. I bought two bus bars at home depot this weekend that I'll be wiring up in the future.


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## Fish Fighter (Sep 8, 2010)

are you going to have a batttery in the front and back of the boat or just front?


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## millertime4242 (Sep 8, 2010)

Fish Fighter said:


> are you going to have a batttery in the front and back of the boat or just front?



Just in front. My motor is a pull start so no need for one in back. I just ran the electric from the front for the light, bilge, and depth finder.


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## Fish Fighter (Sep 8, 2010)

How are you planning on mounting that rear light on?

Do you have a bilge pump, I see you have a hose in the back corner.


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## millertime4242 (Sep 9, 2010)

Fish Fighter said:


> How are you planning on mounting that rear light on?
> 
> Do you have a bilge pump, I see you have a hose in the back corner.



The light and bilge are already mounted and in working order. They are wired to my switch panel. I'll get a close up pic for you when I get a chance.


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## Decatur (Feb 6, 2011)

Thank you so much for posting this build! I have the exact same boat, although I'm not sure what year it is. I completely redone the Gator trailer that came with the boat about three years ago, including adding roller bunks, new hubs, Bearing Buddies, winch, lights, paint, and tires and gutted the boat, but due to a lack of funds, time and a clear vision as to the best way to go about installing decks, that is all the further I have gotten. I even have the carpet, seats, pedestals, Anchor Mates, anchors, trolling motor and a 20hp motor. Maybe this year? Thanks again! =D>


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## Flat Bottom (Feb 6, 2011)

I have a question i havn't quite gotten answered yet. On your connectors when connecting the wood to the actual aluminum of the boat, are they stainless? or just galvinized? I know that galvinized will cause corrosion over time when placed against aluminum. Just wondering, i guess my question to anyone whom may have an answer is, can you get these connectors in stainless? my other option is to make them out of aluminum.


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## tfizzle172 (Feb 6, 2011)

Millertime,

I saw where you posted that you had fabricated your decking then glued the carpet down and poked the edges in with a putty knife. I am trying to figure out how to make the carpet look clean and was not sure if that is how most people do it? Or do they carpet the wood first, then screw it down to the seats and what not. For example, On your front deck below....the hatch lids I assume were carpeted first then attached....but the main deck was carpteted after you screwed it down to the boat? How did you do that inside area where the trolling motor pedal goes?

Also, on your back deck, will you just push the carpet edges in around the edges? If so, do you use contact cement on it and push it up under? I want that clean look, just too dumb to figure it out i guess!


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## Decatur (Feb 6, 2011)

Good question tfizzle!


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## ohiolunker (Apr 3, 2011)

Flat Bottom said:


> I have a question i havn't quite gotten answered yet. On your connectors when connecting the wood to the actual aluminum of the boat, are they stainless? or just galvinized? I know that galvinized will cause corrosion over time when placed against aluminum. Just wondering, i guess my question to anyone whom may have an answer is, can you get these connectors in stainless? my other option is to make them out of aluminum.



2nd on this question. Does anyone know where to get framing brackets in s/s or is there anything you can paint/coat the galvinized brackets with so they don't react with the aluminum?


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## millertime4242 (Jul 1, 2011)

Flat Bottom said:


> I have a question i havn't quite gotten answered yet. On your connectors when connecting the wood to the actual aluminum of the boat, are they stainless? or just galvinized? I know that galvinized will cause corrosion over time when placed against aluminum. Just wondering, i guess my question to anyone whom may have an answer is, can you get these connectors in stainless? my other option is to make them out of aluminum.



Sorry for not answering. Been out fishing  I used aluminum angle when connecting the wood to the sides of the boat. I cut a 1.5" piece of angle, drilled 2 holes in each side. One side got pop riveted to the side of the boat, the other side got a 2x2 bracket pop riveted to it. I think you can see this in one of the close-up photos. 



tfizzle172 said:


> Millertime,
> 
> I saw where you posted that you had fabricated your decking then glued the carpet down and poked the edges in with a putty knife. I am trying to figure out how to make the carpet look clean and was not sure if that is how most people do it? Or do they carpet the wood first, then screw it down to the seats and what not. For example, On your front deck below....the hatch lids I assume were carpeted first then attached....but the main deck was carpteted after you screwed it down to the boat? How did you do that inside area where the trolling motor pedal goes?
> 
> Also, on your back deck, will you just push the carpet edges in around the edges? If so, do you use contact cement on it and push it up under? I want that clean look, just too dumb to figure it out i guess!



I did not want to look at all the screws on top of the deck, so I screwed it down, then glued the carpet down. I cut the carpet about 1.5" longer than I needed on each side and then stuffed it down around the edges with the putty knife. Where a hatch was, I cut an 'x' in the carpet and folded it down and glued it. I then cut little triangles to fill in the corners so it looked finished. I then carpeted the hatches, wrapping the carpet under each lid. The lid was then attached with the hinge. Hope this answered your question...


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## coreythompson (Aug 4, 2014)

great job, I was wonder my self about stability of my boat glad to hear you have no issues with this..


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## SuDZ (Aug 5, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=362295#p362295 said:


> coreythompson » Yesterday, 18:39[/url]"]great job, I was wonder my self about stability of my boat glad to hear you have no issues with this..



It was actually very comfortable with the setup we had. I had a crate with tackle boxes and about 7 or 8 rods on the floor in the middle and he fished the front while I fished from the rear. We were each able to stand and fish without really minding what the other person was doing, a couple times I did sort of a half roll and catch myself, but nothing where I was going over, just like when I leaned over and a wave pushed up from the other side, regular jon boat stuff.

SuDZ


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## Weber89 (Apr 3, 2016)

How did you come up with all the measurements to frame the front deck?


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## SuDZ (Jul 20, 2016)

Weber89 said:


> How did you come up with all the measurements to frame the front deck?




I recently sold the boat, but most of the measurements and cuts I made were first done with cardboard cut to shape and size, and then traced onto plywood.

SuDZ


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