# Dad's 12' Springbok reborn - "Dad's Buoy"



## great white (Jun 15, 2011)

Hi all. 

I'm new here.



My Dad has alzhiemers and it's progressed to the point where he'll never see the outside of an institution again.



Mom asked me if I wanted the Springbok we kept at the cottage. Well, of course I said yes! The trailer is trashed, but the boat is in great shape!

Here's some pics of the boat and data plate:





















(that's our neighbor at the cottage)





(dad in the boat)


----------



## great white (Jun 15, 2011)

The engine is a nice little Johnson 8 hp.

It seems by checking around the internet that the colors and decals indicate it's a 1989.

Here's a few pics and a data plate:
















Last time I had it out (3 years ago) it ran like a top! got that little aluminum up on plan right now! Putters around nicely also. 

Anyone offer some insight int o this little popper?

Maybe some tips or this to watch out for?

I'll most likely do a bit of a restore on both the boat and the outboard.

I'm more than capable and it'll be a nice winter project for me.


----------



## bobberboy (Jun 15, 2011)

Found these. Hope they help. Looks like they were sold in Canada and now being built by Princecraft. Nice to get your dad's boat. 

https://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=275732&page=1

https://www.boatingwithdawsons.com/old-boat-brochures.html


----------



## great white (Jun 16, 2011)

Well, talking to my Mom reveals the trailer is a 1989 model by the registration.

The Outboard appears to be a 1989 model Johnson 8.0 HP based on the colors and decals. A bit of internet digging indicates Johnson used that particular engine cover graphic on 1989 models only.

That leads me to believe that the Springbok is also an 89 model and it was all bought as a package somewhere.

The trailer needs a bit of work. It was used primarily in salt water. Dad launched it at the bottom of the road, so it only ever had to travel a couple hundred feet. Dad never rinsed it or keep up on it. Everything below the "water line" is rotted away. The springs are rotted to one thin leaf, the bearing are inner and outer races ( bearings and cages long gone), the axle is wasted down and soft...


----------



## great white (Jun 16, 2011)

I may very well have a "last of the line" boat here if princecraft's web site is correct:



> For more than 55 years, Princecraft has been building upon a foundation of the highest-quality aluminum boats :
> 
> 1954 - The dream is born. Aluminum proves to be a better material to craft boats and Princecraft is founded in Princeville, Quebec, Canada. The original name of the manufacturing company is called Aluminum Boats and Canoes.
> 
> ...



https://www.princecraft.com/aluminum-boat/About-Princecraft/History.aspx


----------



## fender66 (Jun 16, 2011)

Although I can't see the pictures you've posted (because Big Brother has them blocked from where I work)....I'm sending prayers for your father and your family. [-o< [-o< 

Welcome to TinBoats! Happy to have you here. Stick around....someone hear will be able to help you out I'm sure.


----------



## great white (Sep 11, 2011)

I've got hands on the boat and the trailer's not good. Dad only ever had to trailer it down the road 300 feet to launch and recover (all salt water), so he didn't do much maintenance on the trailer. Basically, the spring pack is rotted away to one thin leaf that the weight of the boat flattens right out, the axle is wasted down everywhere, lets not even talk about the bolts and nuts (cause there's nothing to speak of!) and when I took the hubs apart this is what I found:






Not good. No bearing cages. In fact, no bearings! rotted away to nothing! The hub was just riding on the inner and outer races. So that's why the wheels wobbled so bad comming down the dirt road..... :roll: 

I was able to pound out the outer races, but I had to cut the inners with an angle grinder and split them with a cold chisel.

Basically, everything needs to be replaced from the waterline down.....

I was lucky today and picked up a new axle for 75 bucks. It has 4 bolt hubs, but my 5 bolt hubs will slip right on and allow me to use my larger rims and tires from my utility trailer. 

Plus, I have the option of putting the 5 bolt hubs back on the util trailer and using the original 4 bolt rims on the boat.

I also have to move the spring perches. The boat uses 38" on center and he new axle is 36".

Easy enough. I'll just cut the old ones off and weld new ones where I need them.

I'm also thinking of doing a bass boat "light" style conversion. Not much, just some low level deck surfaces (outdoor carpeted) for convienience and add some covered storage areas. A few little things like rod holder and cleats to round it off.

If it still planes well, I'll look at adding a few other niceties like a trolling motor, battery, lights, etc.

It'll only ever have to haul me around and maybe infrequently the wife or a buddy (ie: the dog)...


----------



## great white (Sep 11, 2011)

Just decoded the Johnson serial number;

CJ8RCEC

Drop the first "C" (I'm assuming = Canadian) and the last "C" ( essentialy jibberish from what I've found).

So it's really J8RCE 

J= Johnson

8= 8 HP

R= rope start

C=8 E=9 so 19*89*

The rest of the package;

1988 trailer (from the registration) and I'm guessing a 1988/89 Springbok (bought as a package).

Not too bad for soemthing that is for all intents and purposes "free".....

I got the axle built up yesterday. Cut off the spring perches and swapped on the 5 lug hubs and wheels. 

Now I have a spare set of new bearing in the 4 bolt hubs to put away for later. 

Tried to install bearing buddies, but they just wouldn't go on. They are the right size for my hubs. I'm just going to take the hubs apart once a year, clean and repack them.

I think I'll get the new perches welded on today or tomorrow.

Found a gent's pics of a 12 footer conversion and this is basically what I'm looking to build from dad's:


----------



## Zum (Sep 11, 2011)

Thats does look like a nice mod.
My father has a 14' springbok,un-modded with a 9.9hp.


----------



## basstender10.6 (Sep 11, 2011)

For the bearing budeies make sure that the inside of the hubs are clean, just use some sandpaper. I had that sname problem

I would install a good whinch strp to replace that thin rope. 
Overall looks like a great boat


----------



## great white (Sep 11, 2011)

basstender10.6 said:


> For the bearing budeies make sure that the inside of the hubs are clean, just use some sandpaper. I had that sname problem
> 
> I would install a good whinch strp to replace that thin rope.
> Overall looks like a great boat



Nah, these would have to be Pressed in if I were to make them work. They measure just a bit too big for the inner dia of the hubs. Might have something to do with them being buddy knockoffs.

Winch is already changed to a 2 inch strap.


----------



## BOB350RX (Sep 11, 2011)

sorry to hear about your dad, i know a couple people engaged in the same battle, but that is a fine vessel, never seen one like that but i like it welcome aboard and good luck!


----------



## great white (Sep 13, 2011)

First loose plan:






Please excuse the poor ms paint rendering, I'm at my moms house and don't have access to my Photoshop.

I left all the stock bunks in place and worked around them to not affect the factory floatation or structural integrity. I always was impressed with how solid the little springbok ungava was and didn't want to loose that.

It used to plane very fast and very well. Hopefully, it still will. I've got plans to build everything out of some very light materials I have access to (think composite sandwich core)...


----------



## great white (Sep 14, 2011)

Been on a parts buying "spree" the last couple days.

Bow mount removable led light-$34
Stern 24" removable 18 led light-$45
Insulated Battery clamps-$7
Small 200 gph bilge pump-$8
large 2000 GPH bilge-$25 (emergency use if I hole the hull)
Through Hull bilge connector-$4
Rod holders x2-$20
Cup holders x3-$5
Impeller-$15
Anode-$7
Solar charger-$20
6 switch & cb panel-$25
Axle-$75
Misc bolts-$15
Spare tire holder-$15
Trailer light kit-$29
Truck multiplug (7 blade and 4/5 flat)-$39

The springs, hubs tires rims, etc are being scavenged off a utility trailer we're not going to keep to give the boat trailer life. The utility trailer is only 4 years old so it's all pretty much new parts (no use for a 4x6 utility trailer anymore).

All the rest of the boat stuff, right down to the vests/rods/tackle/hummingbird/coolers/anchor/swivel seats/oars/heaving lines/etc are already with the boat at the cottage.

Some aluminum bracing, marine plywood, carpet, battery and wiring and she'll be ready to go for the next season.

So that's, what? 3-500 bucks out the door for a complete, sturdy, capable little 8 hp tinny that I've known so well for the last 15 years or so and is good for everything from onshore (been there with this old semi-v many times) to a foot or less of water?

I'll take that all day any day!



Pics to come as I build it...


----------



## great white (Sep 14, 2011)

Here's a couple pics of dad enjoying her in his better days.

On plane in the harbour:






Getting a little onshore action:






A bit far out for a 12' tinny maybe? 






Nah, dad and the ol' girl spent their entire life on the Atlantic. 

Yup, Dad, the old Sprinbok and the Johnson are a bunch of "salty dogs"........


----------



## fender66 (Sep 14, 2011)

Nice memories you have there. :wink:


----------



## great white (Sep 14, 2011)

I keep talking about the cottage, so I thought a pic or two was in order.

View from the upper balcony:






Pics of the house;











Random:


----------



## Howard (Sep 15, 2011)

Life time of memories, I'm sure...


----------



## bcbouy (Sep 15, 2011)

my boat has similar seating,so i thought you may get some ideas from these


----------



## great white (Sep 16, 2011)

bcbouy said:


> my boat has similar seating,so i thought you may get some ideas from these



That forward folding rear hatch is a good idea. Whats that under it? It looks like a bilge pump and a battery maybe?


----------



## great white (Sep 16, 2011)

great white said:


> bcbouy said:
> 
> 
> > my boat has similar seating,so i thought you may get some ideas from these
> ...



Ah, nevermind. I was seeing the wiring in the small pic...


----------



## bcbouy (Sep 17, 2011)

its a bilge pump and wiring for my trolling motor


----------



## great white (Sep 20, 2011)

Had a fairly full day today. Got the springs, axle and fenders slung under the trailer frame. Took some measurements and it all is within spec for straight trouble free towing.

Then, wired up the new trailer lights.

Finished off with mounting the spare tire carrier and spare tire.

Now it's ready for the tow from the cottage to my garage where the transformation will begin from utility boat to fishing (well, in all honesty, fishing really means "napping" for me ) boat....


----------



## great white (Feb 4, 2012)

Well, haven't done much to the boat since last post. 

Been busy tried to get unpacked and organized in the new house.

Work has been demanding also. 

I was cleaning and organizing in the garage today and the boat was looking forlorn.

So I at least mounted the lights today.

Bow:







Stern:






Both removable and LED for power savings. 

It's a little something, but it's something.....


----------



## fender66 (Feb 4, 2012)

She'll be waiting patiently when you are ready. I'm sure of it.


----------



## great white (Feb 5, 2012)

well, sitting around, reading build threads and I've decided to name the boat. I've always though naming "punts" was silly, but this one is a bit different. 

My Dad is slipping deeper into Alzheimers. Last time I was home to visit (2 weeks ago, I'm military and am posted away) he was barely talking. He stopped knowing us months ago. I can still make him laugh and smile from time to time, I'm at least grateful for that small mercy for him.

So since it's Dad's old boat, I'm going to name it for the sake of remembrance:

Dad's Bouy

Dad's boat, I'm his boy. 

Feels right.

Nothing big, maybe on the transom in reasonably small letters or on the freeboard at the back. 

I'm also probably going to print a picture of him and seal it on the boat somewhere. Probably one of these:
















I'm planning a little dry storage up under the bow plate, probably just laminate one on the door so it faces back to me when piloting but it will be out of the weather.

It's a close choice between #2 and #3 I think....


----------



## fender66 (Feb 5, 2012)

I'm thinking I like #2 the best. Has the spirit of Dad and the boat at a happy time. But there's nothing saying you can't do both. It's totally up to you.

Prayers are with you, your dad, and your family.


----------



## Wayfaraway (Feb 5, 2012)

Your dad would be so proud of you. Way to use his memories and spirit to motivate you in you build. Very nice. 
I am guessing you are Canadian Military? I am in the US Army. I have served with some really Great Canadians in Iraq. Thank you for what you do! Oh Canada!


----------



## great white (Feb 5, 2012)

Royal Canadian Air Force.

Search and Rescue.






8)


----------



## JasonLester (Feb 6, 2012)

Man what a nice tribute to your dad. I like pic #2 as well but do what ones mean the most to you. My Grandmother had that too...man I hate the thought of it for anyone. It took its toll on my grandfather who is now in a nursing home. My dad and I have got his boat. its an old Star Craft I think. I love the boat its not pretty by most standards but its wonderfull to me. I have started slowly cleaning it up. I hope to get him out on it a few times this year. 

Praying for you and your family...


----------



## Wayfaraway (Feb 6, 2012)

great white said:


> Royal Canadian Air Force.
> 
> Search and Rescue.
> 
> ...



Very nice! I am a helicopter crewchief myself.


----------



## great white (Feb 6, 2012)

Wayfaraway said:


> great white said:
> 
> 
> > Royal Canadian Air Force.
> ...



I'm a Flight Engineer.

Don't fly much anymore though, once a week or so. I'm saddled with the Squadron Warrant Officer (SWO) job.

Right hand man to the CO.

More administrative BS than I ever wanted to do.....


----------



## great white (Feb 10, 2012)

Well, I've got a lot of projects on the burner and life just threw me a curve this morning. My snowblower threw the rod though the block. 

Not having a snowblower around these parts is not an option, Unless you want to work yourself into a heat attack.

$2000 later, I've got a new Toro sitting in the garage. 

But that's made some changes to the boat project.

I had planned to make the decking supports from aluminum channel, but now that's too expensive (no scrap dealers handy).

So, I'm going to have to use wood for the sub structure. Not ideal, but certainly workable.

I'll have to get a bit creative with the wood work to keep it light and strong. I'll start with spruce 2x4's and mill the supports and shapes I need from those. 

The supports will be milled to "friction fit" in the vessel so I don't have dissimilar metals touching. 

If I get a little "fancy" I'll add a few small Aluminum brackets to the boat and use them to tie the support/decking down. 

Think: Nylon strapping and buckles. 

A plus is that it will all be easily removable. 

Since the plan is to rip the 2x4's into 1x1's or less, there has to be some serious rationalization on how they are laid out. 

My plan is to use 3/8 or less marine ply for the deck to save weight. I'd prefer 1/4", but that's probably just going to be too fragile. 

The plan will probably be to have no more of a 12" span without substructure supporting it. 

If I'm good enough with layout of the supports, 3/8 plywood should be plenty strong for walking, standing or....ahem...."sleeping"......which is an important part of my fishing day!

 

A good coat of fiberglass resin will seal and help stiffen the structure, hopefully without adding too much weight. 

Probably going to start working out the layout and cutting support members tomorrow....


----------



## fender66 (Feb 10, 2012)

Sorry to hear of your bad luck.

There's always something....isn't there.


----------



## great white (Feb 16, 2012)

Tripped on down to the building store today.

I'm kinda halfway aluminum, halfway wood.

I picked up some 1/2 al angle and 1/2 al flat. The angle will provide a "ledge" where some of the floor/supports will attach/sit. The flat will form supports for some storage areas I have in mind.

The rest will be ripped/planed to dimension spruce and 3/8 plywood.

All held together with construction adhesive and galvinized screws (no screws into al, only al rivets).

The flooring will have a substructure to give it strength in any long or unsupported runs.

On vacation the rest of this week and the next. Hoping to make a little progress on the little punt and relax a bit while building it.

Kind of like relaxation therapy for men.

Pics to follow.....


----------



## great white (Feb 17, 2012)

Little bit of work today, mostly just adding braces for the floor to rest on and for a compartment on the side.

Please excuse the poor iphone pics:











framing for the compartment:






There will be an open area at the front as my depth/fish finder is an older humminbird portable unit. The rest will just be storage and there'll be a small solar charger mounted on the top.

Planning to get a bit more done tomorrow.


----------



## great white (Feb 18, 2012)

Got the floor cut for the rear:






No templates, just good ol' measuring.

3/8 plywood.

Tomorrow I'll work on the under-structure bracing for it. 

When I'm done, there won't be much more than 4-6 inches that isn't braced. 

It's strong enough that I can stand close to the side bracing as it is. Adding structure to the underside will just firm it all up and still be nice and light.

I'll still undecided on a hatch in it. There's a fair bit of space underneath it. 

I'm not so much thinking about storage as I am being able to use a manual bailer.


----------



## fender66 (Feb 19, 2012)

Looking good!


----------



## great white (Feb 19, 2012)

Made decent progress today.

Reinforced flooring (all screwed and glued) and cut a hatch for access to "the bilge":
















Then started working on the upper rear deck:






Cut a rear hatch for removing fuel tank and access to drain plug/bilge pump:






Just dropped the seat on to get and idea of size. It'll be going on a slider for fishing and running the tiller:






That's about all I got done today. 

The floor is a little weak up by the front hatch. I may have to give in and run one or two braces down to the hull ribs. 

There's only about a few more inches than 1 sheet of 3/8 plywood and 1.5 2x4's in there so far. Nice and light so I can afford a little bit more weight.

I also installed my bilge fitting in the hull today. You can see it sticking out in the last crappy pic.

Apologies for the iphone pics, snow storm out today and I didn't feel like making an extra trip across the yard to get a proper camera...


----------



## fool4fish1226 (Feb 20, 2012)

Looks great - really good wood working


----------



## great white (Feb 20, 2012)

Only half a days work today. Built the "rear wing box". 

I ditched the aluminum framework idea. Just wasn't going to work out properly.

Took a while to figure out how to make it on top of the seat deck and fit it under the rail so the set deck was still removable.

but now I just pull out 3 screws and the box lifts off, then the whole seat deck comes out. 

So far, none of the wood is actually attached to the boat. 

It's all friction fit and laid out to rest under existing structure at it's edges. I didn't want to compromise the hull/ribs in any way. 

The only thing actually attached to the vessel are some aluminum angles attached to the seat boxes to rest the floor on.












The fish finder is a portable, so I just wanted a place to hold it. Hey, it was free and it works...it's also self reliant on it's own batteries and easily removed so it won't get stolen.

The opening in the rear is just a stuff area. It will have a stretchy net over it to hold things in.






Throw in a cup holder and call it done.






The small solar charger will sit where you see it in the pic.






I'm up to about 1.5 sheets of 3/8 plywood and 2 2X4's in the whole thing so far. I'm very sparing with the plywood and I rip the 2x$'s into 1x1.5" stringers. All clamped, waterproof wood glued and screwed.

I should only have about 2.5 sheets of plywood and 3 or 4 2X4's in the whole thing when done. I'm going for "light" construction but still done to my preferences in a small fishing runabout.

The boat used to plane really well and I'd like to keep it that way.

More work tomorrow....the other "wing box" should go much quicker as I now have the pattern and the angles all worked out (everything is written down).

Hopefully finish off the rear decking area completely.


----------



## Jdholmes (Feb 20, 2012)

I love love love the rear wing idea. I would say I am stealing it, but there is nothing new under the sun so...It is only kind of stealing. 

Great idea though. I have the same kind of fish finder setup and have been wondering where to set it safely.

If you have any more pics of the way you framed it to the seat and side of the boat, I'd like to see them. 

Are you permanently mounting the transducer for it or rigging something for that too?


----------



## RBuffordTJ (Feb 20, 2012)

I love the layout on this boat


----------



## great white (Feb 20, 2012)

It's like a semi monocoque layout used in aircraft. There's minimal stringers and the panels themselves are loaded structure.

Kind of ran back to my aircraft training in some ways with a bit of cabinet making thrown in.

It's not attached to the gunwales or original seat at all. Friction fit and held under existing structure of the gunwales.

Thankfully, it will all be covered with lightweight carpeting so my "less than perfect" woodworking will be covered up and it will look seamless.

It probably has to come back out tomorrow to do the storage area under the rear seat deck. I'll try to get some pics of the back side.

I'm back and forth on the fish finder. I'd like to keep it portable, but I've only got the one boat so.....


----------



## fool4fish1226 (Feb 21, 2012)

=D> Really Great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! build can't wait to see the finished product


----------



## bigwave (Feb 21, 2012)

Very nice, I love that design on the back deck......simple but effective. I like the whole space on space idea.....great spot for some raingear or small tackle station....I have to steal this idea. Awesome job so far Great White.


----------



## great white (Feb 21, 2012)

As requested:






Little bit fuzzy, iphone again.

As I mentioned before, it's all "modular" and each panel comes out with just a couple screws but they're all strong enough to support a lot of weight. Just this morning I slipped and brought my weight down on my arm on the wing box. 

Not even a twitch...


----------



## great white (Feb 21, 2012)

bigwave said:


> Very nice, I love that design on the back deck......simple but effective. I like the whole space on space idea.....great spot for some raingear or small tackle station....I have to steal this idea. Awesome job so far Great White.



Oh, I'm not done yet.

I've got a few plans for some bonus storage that will show up in a future posting....... :-$


----------



## jimmy fins (Feb 21, 2012)

Looks great. =D> Very nice looking floor plan.


----------



## KevinWI (Feb 21, 2012)

looking great! lots of storage areas.


----------



## great white (Feb 21, 2012)

Right hand wing box:






Circuit Breaker/Switch panel is installed but not wired.

View from up by the bow:






Still left to do is hinge and brace the rear hatch, as well as add a slot for the fuel line and maybe a bit more venting as it's the fuel tank compartment. Trapped fuel vapors in a closed area is mucho bad! I want gas vapors to escape _*toute suite*_) so more venting is always welcome.

That's probably it for today. Tomorrow I'll work on the panels for the lower deck.

I'm still only up to a about 1 1/4 sheets of 3/8 plywood in the build. I've still got a 4x4 piece, a 2x4 piece and a bunch of pieces that were cut out of the holes and scraps on the rack. I've almost got two full 8 foot 2x4's in there now. 

Unfortunately, I'm up to 8 screws needed to be removed to be able to lift everything out of the hull........ :LOL2: 

Hopefully, it's keeping nice and light for the comfort gained. 

In keeping with the "light" theme, there's going to be minimal hatches and doors on this build. 

Mostly "pass through bulkheads" (bigger version of the holes you see in the wing boxes) to store things like life jackets, coats, etc.

I sure hope she still planes as nice as before all this was installed.....


----------



## great white (Feb 22, 2012)

Another day gone. Only a half days work again. Spent the morning on my french course.

Worked on the storage area under the rear upper deck today. 

I was originally thinking it would just be an "open" storage area for life jackets and the like, But once the partition from the fuel tank/bilge area was done there just wasn't a lot of space available.

So, a change of plans:






I was struggling for ideas on how to incorporate a stereo and tackle boxes until the smaller than expected under seat space issue came up. 

The space lends itself very nicely to all those things and a bit more.

The black looking rectangle is actually a older sony xplod flip face stereo I've had lying around. It has a couple "aux in" so I'll be able to hook up the ipod/iphone also.

The slot below it will be a drawer for a bit of closeable storage. 

The two slots next to the stereo are for tackle boxes. There's a plano 4700 tackle box in the upper slot in the picture and both are sized for that box.

Another shot from the bow:






Functional, but the woodworking is not exactly perfect. 

Carpet covers all our sins.......


----------



## fender66 (Feb 22, 2012)

VERY nice work! =D> =D>


----------



## fool4fish1226 (Feb 23, 2012)

You (Great White) said "Functional, but the woodworking is not exactly perfect"

Sorry but I will have to disagree, Your woodworking skills are great, you have done an amazing job =D>


----------



## great white (Feb 23, 2012)

fool4fish1226 said:


> You (Great White) said "Functional, but the woodworking is not exactly perfect"
> 
> Sorry but I will have to disagree, Your woodworking skills are great, you have done an amazing job =D>



Thank you for the kind words.

I guess it falls under "you are your own worst critic" because all I see are wavy cuts and corners that don't exactly match. Although it is reaching the point of what I have seen in my mind.

Might have some bow shots later this evening. Things are changing as I lay the cooler, lifejacket storage, battery and anchor out in the space I have left. 

On the plus side; the battery and anchor are being pushed even further forward than planned. That should help to balance the boat out front to rear a bit better. Might even get to plane faster. Time will tell...

I'm going to end up with more "hatches" than I had wanted so I'm also rethinking the supports. The supports are probably going to have to be heavier than originally planned as they deck won't tie them together as much as I had wanted.

Instead of 1.5 deep x1 wide, they'll prob have to be at least 2 deep x 1.5 wide (I'm ripping 2x4's for stingers and we all know they're actually 1.5 after kiln drying).


----------



## bigwave (Feb 23, 2012)

Very nice Greatwhite =D> When you get to cutting out the hatches please take lots of pictures, I am struggling with my project on exactly how to frame and cut them out. I am not sure how to do the radius cut like you have done, but I have general idea. I need to get that part figured out since I am not planning on putting carpet in my boat. Everything topside will be glassed and gel-coated so the cuts need to be precise. the look of your project is what I am striving to accomplish....along with a few bells and whistles. I think my mod will be a hybrid of yours and Fish4fools....both of you guys have awesome looking mods. Keep up the good work.

See ya
Kevin


----------



## great white (Feb 23, 2012)

bigwave said:


> Very nice Greatwhite =D> When you get to cutting out the hatches please take lots of pictures, I am struggling with my project on exactly how to frame and cut them out. I am not sure how to do the radius cut like you have done, but I have general idea. I need to get that part figured out since I am not planning on putting carpet in my boat. Everything topside will be glassed and gel-coated so the cuts need to be precise. the look of your project is what I am striving to accomplish....along with a few bells and whistles. I think my mod will be a hybrid of yours and Fish4fools....both of you guys have awesome looking mods. Keep up the good work.
> 
> See ya
> Kevin




My openings are laid out with a ruler and with whatever I have lying around the shop that's round for the corners IE: cupholders, bottle tops, etc.

Then, it's just punch a hole with the drill and simply following lines with the jigsaw...


----------



## bigwave (Feb 23, 2012)

Just curious, what is the blade your using on your Jigsaw? I need to buy some new ones.


----------



## great white (Feb 23, 2012)

bigwave said:


> Just curious, what is the blade your using on your Jigsaw? I need to buy some new ones.



You know, I really don't remember. 

Same one that has been ion there for a long time. 

Never seems to go dull so I haven't bothered with it in years....


----------



## Jdholmes (Feb 23, 2012)

Bosch makes a good blade but mostly just stay away from the cheapest, like Ryobi...I find they typically don't make good blades...or good anything...


----------



## great white (Feb 23, 2012)

Only got another half day to work on the boat today.

Took a fair bit of figuring to get the front supports laid out in the configuration and spacing I needed while still supporting the deck right out to the edges:







Lord my garage is a mess! That drives me freakin' nuts!!!

Still, it's better than working outside in -10c and 3 feet of snow.......heated and insulated, that's the way to go boys!

:LOL2:

The forward deck is a bit more "conventional" construction compared to the way the stern was built.

The two center beams are a full 2x4 for strength since the span is long. I stood on them today and bounced the trailer up and down without deflection. 

That'll do!

I had to make a notch cut in the ends to have them sit on the seats. The front seat is at a different height so the cut is different front to rear. I made the notches nice and tight to the seat ends, so it will keep the platform from moving for and aft. 

The cooler is visible in the picture and will be on a platform hung from the deck in order to make it level at the top. Don't get excited, the cooler isn't for fish. 

It's for my lunch!

8) 

I'm usually catch and release if I fish recreationally. Might go barbless this year as well. Fishing is really just an excuse for me to go for a nice nap anyways...

 

There will be a hatch in front of the cooler and the battery will be under the hatch. The battery will also hang on a platform from the deck. 

I'm following the theme from the rear deck area; everything will lift out and nothing will be attached to the hull or ribs. Everything is supported by the seat boxes, like the OE intended the weight to be supported in the boat.

There will be a small angled hatch on either side for misc storage (ie: life jackets, nets, etc) and that will all just sit on the hull on some foam floor pads.

There will also be a compartment built on the front seat in order to house the anchor and anchor line. 

It's coming together, slowly but surely...


----------



## great white (Feb 24, 2012)

Worked on the front deck today.

Cut the 3/8 plywood to shape and then put 4 screws in to hold it to the frame. Then, removed it all from the boat and flipped it over:






Then I traced the cavities and removed the framing:






Now I had the exact layout of the openings and where the supports were located. 

I could have measured and laid out the lines, but tracing was just much easier.

Then is was a simple matter of adjusting the lines 3/4" this way or that to make sure the cut line was in the middle of the 1 1/2" width of the 2X4 in order to support the non hinged sides of the hatches.

Deck reinstalled (screwed and glued) and hatches/openings cut:






Hatches in place:






Hatches open:






I need to buy some piano style hinges for the hatches. 

I also have to build the hanging structure under the deck for the cooler and batteries as well as the anchor compartment under the bow. 

Little bit closer every day....


----------



## Kochy (Feb 24, 2012)

This is shaping up nicely, Good work.


----------



## great white (Feb 24, 2012)

Last bit of work for a couple days.

Anchor locker:











Probably won't get to work on the boat until Sunday now. 

But then it will be the hanging boxes for the battery and cooler....


----------



## Jdholmes (Feb 24, 2012)

Doing a beautiful job...show us the framing you added for your anchor locker. I like that.


----------



## great white (Feb 24, 2012)

Jdholmes said:


> Doing a beautiful job...show us the framing you added for your anchor locker. I like that.



What you see is what you get for framing.

Nothing is attached to the boat so there's no "frame" _per se_, it's all self supporting.

I built it that way so it will lift out easily.


----------



## Jdholmes (Feb 24, 2012)

So, I take it you attached wood braces to the lower piece of plywood to push it up against or something?


----------



## great white (Feb 26, 2012)

Did some work on the cooler well today.











As I've mentioned before, it hangs from the deck and doesn't touch the hull. It still all lifts right out in one piece.

Unfortunately, I had to accept 1/4" clearance from the hull (would have preferred minimum 3/4-1") at the bottom so now the cooler doesn't sit flush with the deck surface:






I needed 15" depth to sit flush, I only got about 13 3/4" because of the bow taper and rise.

However, the picture actually makes it look like it sits higher than it does. There's about 1 1/4" above the deck. That's just about the height of the red cooler lid protruding. 

I've got a piece of 3/8" plywood on the base right now, but I'll switch that to 1/4" that I'm going to use to panel out the rest of the well and the side boxes. That will lower the cooler another 1/4". Then the carpet will go on which will gain about 1/8". So the net effect will be about 3/8" lower/closer to the deck.

Miniscule measurements, but it all helps.

Next up will be the battery tray in front of the cooler well. 

Hopefully, I don't run into the same hull taper problems that I did with the cooler well. I'll probably do a "stepped tray" in the compartment if it becomes a problem. I'm only going to install one battery anyways....


----------



## novaman (Feb 26, 2012)

Really nice workmanship, and plannig in Your build. =P~ I'm sure You dad is smiling down on what You've accomplished, with a little bit of envy in his grin.


----------



## great white (Feb 26, 2012)

novaman said:


> Really nice workmanship, and plannig in Your build. =P~ I'm sure You dad is smiling down on what You've accomplished, with a little bit of envy in his grin.



Thanks, but my dad hasn't passed. He's institutionalized and doesn't recognize us anymore.

The damnedest thing of it all was he was originally trained as a shipwright and built boats. Probably would have thought this much work on a 12' aluminum doesn't make any sense. He is/was a practical man that way; works fine as is why mess with it? All that wood is just extra weight that takes from the purpose of the boat.

He would have appreciated the work in it though.

Now he barely recognizes a screwdriver. I take in a board with a bunch of Robertson screws, a screwdriver and a coffee when I visit. He might not recognize me, but he still grabs the screwdriver and starts working those screws and knows how to handle that Tim Hortons coffee cup. 

Although, it's a bit heart wrenching to watch him unscrew a screw and then just keep unscrewing it in the hole for 20 minutes.

God help me, I'd put a bullet in my skull if I inherit that disease....


----------



## novaman (Feb 27, 2012)

I totally understand Your last staement, as I went through it with My Mom for 4 yrs. And the really sad part was She didn't want to languish with it either. Hope You ,nor I never get that way! [-o< 


The boat is really loking GRAND! Carry On!


----------



## great white (Feb 27, 2012)

novaman said:


> I totally understand Your last staement, as I went through it with My Mom for 4 yrs. And the really sad part was She didn't want to languish with it either. Hope You ,nor I never get that way! [-o<
> 
> 
> The boat is really looking GRAND! Carry On!



I understand.

My Dad was asking for us to end it for him just before he totally disappeared into himself. 

I'm thinking I'll tow the boat back to the cottage once done and go land a couple fish in the harbor for him. 

We never got to fish from the springbok together, guess this will have to be the next closest thing....


----------



## fool4fish1226 (Feb 28, 2012)

Great work on the boat, it is coming along nicely =D>


----------



## great white (Mar 13, 2012)

Not much progress lately, life has a funny habit of getting in the way....

But after cleaning up the garage some, I found some time to get a couple bits done.






Cased in the front and cooler compartments:






(yeah, you can see where I messed up one measurement, no big, carpet will hide it)

Decided to put a cover over the cooler after all. Had to rework the bottom of the cooler well a bit:






The hull pulls double duty for the walls for the side compartments:






Nothing touches the hull still. It's all suspended off the factory seats, all in the original places and with the floatation foam intact, didn't touch one thing on the original hull. The two side compartments are for things like life jackets/pole nets/heaving lines/etc and there's only about 1/4" clearance for things to slip under so we're good there. Even if something manages to slip under the sides down to the middle of the hull's "V", the cooler well is open on the bottom so extraction is easily done.

All closed up:






Nice and flat for an afternoon nap on the lake!

So, I've got just under 2.5 sheets of 3/8 plywood in the boat so far. My goal was to keep it as light as possible, I don't think I could have gone much lighter without compromising strength unless I had gone all aluminum. I haven't weighed it yet, but I'm going to WAG it at no more than 50 lbs of added weight.

Then, decided to build myself a little station to keep my chargers, drills and accessories with some of the half sheet and scraps I had left over:






Threw in a couple drawers because I'm tired of all my spare bits all over hell and creation or rifling through my stuff just to find a driver:






So, the wood working is essentially done on the boat. I've got a few trim panels to add to just clean things up, a bit of sanding on the doors (for carpet clearance) and some hardware bits to install but it's carpet next and wiring up the accessories.

Well, gotta seal the wood up too. I'm thinking spar varnish will fit the bill.......


----------



## great white (Mar 14, 2012)

A little bit closer every day:











(The blue bag on the rod tip is so you don't put your eye out when walking past!)

I can see the final form of the boat and decks coming together. 

I like it!

8)

Rear seat will be on a slider, the front will be on a removable post with a second socket on the port side of the vessel (counterweight the pilot when two on board).


----------



## UtahBassKicker (Mar 14, 2012)

Looks awesome.


----------



## blink (Mar 14, 2012)

i like how the deck lifts at the very front.
I may need to do something like that to mount my front trolling motor.


----------



## ChitownBasser (Mar 14, 2012)

=D> Damn. Looking nice.


----------



## fool4fish1226 (Mar 14, 2012)

=D> =D> =D> Great wood working skills, the boat turned out awesome.


----------



## great white (Mar 14, 2012)

Thanks guys.

I'm thinking since Dad is never going to see outside the institution again, I'll trailer the boat home this year (Newfoundland to Nova Scotia) and take the boat out on the harbor at the cottage. 

I'll fish the flats my Dad knew so well and maybe have a fish fry on the beach or the porch of the cottage like he would have......kind of a "full circle" thing for the boat.....


----------



## UtahBassKicker (Mar 14, 2012)

Sorry about your dad. It's awesome that you have those great memories to hang on to. My dad is still in good health (after beating cancer a few years ago) but I also have great memories from my younger years with him. I hope that I am allowing the opportunity for my son to create similar memories. That's what's so awesome about, fishing, boating, and the outdoors in general. Keep up the great work on the boat and hang on those memories!


----------



## fool4fish1226 (Mar 14, 2012)

great white said:


> Thanks guys.
> 
> I'm thinking since Dad is never going to see outside the institution again, I'll trailer the boat home this year (Newfoundland to Nova Scotia) and take the boat out on the harbor at the cottage.
> 
> I'll fish the flats my Dad knew so well and maybe have a fish fry on the beach or the porch of the cottage like he would have......kind of a "full circle" thing for the boat.....




That sounds like a great day its always better to remember the good and try to put the bad behind you. A trip like that should bring back some great memories and stories.


----------



## fishingmich (Mar 14, 2012)

Sorry to hear about your dad. My dad passed when I was 23 and we never got a chance to fish together as friend. Just as a dad and his kid. The boat and the woodworking is badass! Keep it up.


----------



## great white (Oct 20, 2012)

Well, like always life gets in the way and havent done much with the boat.

A little of this, a little of that and a couple pics pretty much tells the whole story:












Basically, hinges, doors and carpeting. Im going to cover the lower deck area with the foam like standing mats. They don't absorb water, they're light, they're great to stand on, they're easy to keep clean and they're easy and cheap to replace. 

Doesn't get much better than that....


----------



## great white (Nov 3, 2012)

Cut the standing mats for the lower deck area today. Fills the area in nicely and feels great when standing on it. Its even a good color match for the rest of the gray carpeting. Cleans with a wipe of a damp cloth.

Should make moving about nice and quiet too.

All for ten bucks!

Good deal.


----------



## great white (Feb 2, 2013)

Dad passed away this week. He was wasted down to about 120 lbs and got pneumonia. 

He passed quietly while unconscious when his breath just gave out.

We interned his ashes in the cemetery where several of his good friends are resting and many more of the people he made a difference in thier lives through his work with AA. He was past his 25 year coin himself.

We kept a small portion to be spread at the cottage in Wine Harbour:






which is where he spent as much of his brief retirement years as he could:
















I plan to finish "dad's bouy" and take his ashes out to the middle of the harbor:






where I will spread his final remains off his boat and say my own personal goodbye by tossing a line and spending the rest of the day on the water in his favorite spots...


----------



## jasper60103 (Feb 2, 2013)

Sorry to hear about your Dad.
You've done a great thing here, and he would be proud.


----------



## great white (Mar 24, 2013)

Carpeting and woodworking coming to a close, started working on a frame for the storage/travel cover i'll be stitching up soon:






I need to pick up another piece of aluminum to make one more support bow.

Unfortunately, while cleaning the transom I found a spot where the aluminum skin has corroded through. 

The only good thing is it's right above where I intended to mount the depth sounder sensor. 

So, the plan is to clean corrosion back to good metal and then bond the "cutting board" mount right over the spot and down to the base of the transom.

Kills two birds with one stone....


----------



## great white (Mar 24, 2013)

Got tired of the trailer winch being bunched up and the bow roller/stop being positioned wrongly.

So i redid the bow stop bracket:






You can see how short it was here and how it would have made the strap too short to effectively hold and winch the bow:






I also welded one of the spring pads on the axle and bolted up the proper u bolts instead of the temporary ones i had to use last year. The other side gets done tomorrow.

Soon, i'll pull the boat off the trailer, replace some rusty bolts and paint the whole thing black.

I'd like to build the fender steps i had planned this year, but i don't think I'll get that far before the season starts....


----------



## great white (Mar 26, 2013)

Reworked the bow stop and loading winch position again:











The previous setup pulled the bow down too much when up against the stop. Once it was cranked in against the stop. the keel was loaded against the bottom roller and I was worried about damage to the hull when trailer-ing. 

Now, the boat is a straight pull with very slight down into the bow stop (ignore the welded bracket on the crank, failed experiment and will be cut off)

I've also moved the boat up on the trailer to load the tongue more even though it used to tow fine.


----------



## trueblue1970 (Mar 26, 2013)

Condolences to you and your family. May your dad rest in peace. Keep that boat going, he will be proud.


----------



## sgt tee (Mar 28, 2013)

This is a nice job, very talented, that front bow is the way I need to make mione and I like the idea you did not screw anything down, it all rest on the bench's


----------



## great white (Mar 30, 2013)

I've been struggling with what to do about transom tie downs. 

I normally hook to the rear handles and then down around the bottom of the transom and back to the trailer frame. 

Problem is: It loads the handles down and it buffs the breakover at the bottom of the transom. Even when I slide the winch post all the way forward and have near 12" of bunk sticking out behind the transom, the transom is not level with the trailer frame so the straps have to go forward some. 

So, I'm bonding some cutting boards on either side of the transom and they will protect the aluminum. I'll make a "clip" that will sit over the top of the transom and attach the strap to that which will spread the load out instead of loading up the rear carrying handles.

Finally, I'll look at welding something like this:






to the trailer frame to reduce the angle a bit more.

All this should make for a decent angle on the transom straps to hold the boat to the trailer on rough roads. 

I've also got to make some light standards/trailer guide ons I have planned for the trailer.

Still have to change out a bunch or rusty frame bolts too

Once it's all sorted, I will shoot everything in a nice black epoxy paint.


----------



## great white (Mar 30, 2013)

Start of the transom work:






Rh is just for strap protection, lh for strap and transducer mounting...


----------



## great white (Mar 30, 2013)

Spent a little time looking at the transducer location and decided it was a little bit too close to the outside chine. 

So I pulled it off the transom and cleaned it with spirits before the 920 set too much. 

Spent the next hour building a mount for the transducer that will go close to the transom drain and almost at the lowest point. It's in to the right and in front of the outboard, but it's going to be nice and firmly in clean water under the boat with lots of clearance between the hull strakes.


----------



## great white (Mar 31, 2013)

A bit more research revealed that transducers are mostly recommended to be around 15" from an outboard in order for a better signal (IE: noise interference).

Well, the boat is only 51" at the chine, so that doesn't leave a whole lot of space. 

Back to the outer mount closer to the chine. I made sure the mount was between the bottom strakes for clean water and height is yet to be determined. 

I chose a location where I had it on a suction cup mount before so I know it will at least work. It used to be good right up to the top speed of the boat. 

I wanted it adjustable for at least height and removable for storage so I changed up the transom mount a bit:






The middle piece slides in between the two outside pieces:






This makes it height adjustable. Once I get it dialed in I'll put in a removable pin to lock it in place and still have it removable.


----------



## great white (Apr 1, 2013)

Well, the end has come for a 4X6 utility trailer I had lying around:






I had already pirated the wheels, hubs, axle and springs for the boat trailer last year. 

The utility trailer was only about 4 years old, but I paid nothing for it. As a matter of fact, it made me more money than it cost. My employer has moved me across the country twice and they give half again the standard mileage allowance (IE: fuel costs) if you tow a trailer. The first trip made me several hundred dollars even after buying the little 4x6 new for 500 bucks and the second trip was all profit as we already had the trailer. But it had outlived it's usefulness after I pirated the parts off it so it was now just taking up space. 

first order of business is to get rid of the rusty old coupler:






Much better. The old one was still solid, but it was beginning to waste away inside on the foot and springs. Luckily, the frame member was still solid and the galvanizing had held up just fine.

Then, started using the steel to make some side stays and raised lighting:











Not a bad start. Looks like I's be able to weld the side frames and then clamp them to the rails. That will keep most of the galvanizing on the frame rails intact. 

Some Cutting and welding still ahead of me and some adjustable side bunks (will slide in and out towards the hull to make loading easier and transporting more stable) to be built. A nice rounded bit of steel on the back of the side rails and padding will make loading a less stressful event.

I'll also add some foot steps tied into the side bunks to make getting in and out of the boat on dry land much easier. Maybe even a 4-5 inch wide "catwalk" style platform down the tongue rail to make walking to a from the boat easier when loading and off loading if there's enough grill steel left over...


----------



## great white (Apr 6, 2013)

Getting closer. Bunk frames built and lights mounted:






Side view:






Welded up the brackets for the side markers:






More welding and metal work to clean up yet. Have yet to build the carpets side bunks, kind of thinking of just carpeting the metal pieces. Have to install some rollers on the back of the bunks. Thinking about adding some bunks under the hull further up for just a week bit more support when trailering. Some ubolts and assorted others still need replacing. Still thining about making some side steps and a walkway. Then it into paint and rewire.


----------



## Pweisbrod (Apr 6, 2013)

Those are some great trailer mods and I will definitely be stealing them. I've busted one too many tail light covers to go through that again!


----------



## Eddie Spaghetti (Apr 6, 2013)

Great White, First let me say how sorry I was to read about your father. My wife lost her dad at 66 in the same manner. My condolensces to you and your family. You have a fantastic build going on here. This is the first I ran across the thread, and really admire your work. A little jealous about the cabin as well. What a great view. I'm looking forward to your report about your first trip aboard "Dad's Bouy".


----------



## great white (Apr 6, 2013)

Pweisbrod said:


> Those are some great trailer mods and I will definitely be stealing them. I've busted one too many tail light covers to go through that again!



These lights are inside metal casings. Basically, armored lights!

You would have to back directly into the end of a pole or similar to break them.

The casings can usually be bought at trailer stores and added to trailers without them if desired.


----------



## great white (Apr 9, 2013)

Working on the Boat cover brought up some problems. I needed to store the boat outside and cover it while towing. 

While a flat cover would work fine for towing, it would quickly turn into a swimming pool when used for storage. 

I was planning to use aluminum bows in a slot already in the gunnels to make a "pop up" style cover to shed water while in storage. , but it became obvious I'd need lots of them (IE: $$$$$) to keep the cover from flapping and collapsing if I used it for towing. 

I knew I didn't want some big complex thing with poles and tie down's all over the place. I wanted something light, easily to take up/down and easily stowed. 

Then I hit upon an idea from a web search:







Great idea to keep the cover up. 

So I got out and old ratchet strap, some webbing material and the sewing machine and adapted it a bit for better trailering manners:
















Just what I'm looking for. The ratchet strap pulls taught and loads the bows under compression, making them even stiffer. It will keep the cover up and shedding water when stationary and will support it while trailering down the road. When ready, release the ratchet mechanism and it goes loose, slip the bows out of their slots and it all folds up to a straight flat piece. 

Now to start on the cover. 

Fortunately, we are encouraged at work to use materials to practice our skills on projects when things are slow. I'm using some rip stop material that is water proof. Light and flexible, sheds water like a duck and you can't tear it if you tried, even if it's got a cut in it. 

Mil spec stuff, love it!


----------



## muffin (Apr 9, 2013)

The first thing that came to mind when i saw the very first picture you posted of the boat - "that is Awesome". You have really done an outstanding job making it look like a fine boat. I have no doubt that your father would be extremely proud!


----------



## great white (Apr 9, 2013)

Boat cover is underway:
















I've got the shape right and you can see the first hem is done. 

Next I'll stitch on the rear panel and fit it to the boat and have a special bit to pop up and around/over the outboard. 

When that's done, the hem that you see gets rolled up over a large piece of bungee that will go around the perimeter of the gunnel and stitched into a pocket. I'll add somewhere around 6 tabs loops of webbing to each side to bungee down to the trailer. 

Finally, I'll stitch up a "bra" to cover the front and "wing" out to cover the lower bow from stones. It will also help to keep air sneaking up under the cover from the front.


----------



## Pweisbrod (Apr 10, 2013)

Wow, awesome work on the cover.


----------



## great white (Apr 12, 2013)

Cover is coming along nicely:





















Slow and steady but it's getting there....


----------



## bigwave (Apr 12, 2013)

Your homemade cover looks better than on purchased in the stores. That rip-stop stuff is super strong if I remember right.......we had stuff like that when I was in the Navy.


----------



## great white (Apr 12, 2013)

bigwave said:


> Your homemade cover looks better than on purchased in the stores. That rip-stop stuff is super strong if I remember right.......we had stuff like that when I was in the Navy.



That would be the stuff. 

Super thin and light but still super strong and waterproof.

I can stand on it between a couple benches and it doesn't give in. 

I purposely made a cut in a piece and tried to make it rip further.

Not a chance in heck.



I am going to make a few fleece covers for the deck cleats and such, just so they don't abrade the rip stop material....


----------



## great white (Apr 13, 2013)

Man, that's a lot of bungee cord......


----------



## Pweisbrod (Apr 13, 2013)

Wow that's awesome! I'll drop mine off Friday.


----------



## great white (Apr 14, 2013)

Cover is done for now:































So now it's back to the trailer welding and prep for paint work:
















Couple more days of work, a touch more woodworking and it will be done and ready for the season.


----------



## Pweisbrod (Apr 14, 2013)

Looks really great


----------



## Andyg (Apr 15, 2013)

Awesome boat! hands down your hatches are a million times better than mine. I stink at wood working. (should have paid more attention in shop class) . Shes a first class micro bass boat!


----------



## great white (Apr 15, 2013)

Did a bit more metal burnin' today and added a small walkway:











I added the walkway because some of the sites I launch at is very shallow and you end up walking in waste/thigh high water a lot. 

This way, I can pull on the regular rubber boots and walk out the trailer to launch and recover instead of getting wet or having to wear hip waders. Much better than trying to balance on the rails while trying to manhandle the boat. That never seems to end well.....

Tomorrow should see a final clean up and into primer.

Getting close now!


----------



## great white (Apr 17, 2013)

Primed and into the very first coat of black:






There are some missing u bolts I have on order and still have to flip it over for the first coat on the bottom surfaces, but it's nice to see final assembly beginning...


----------



## sgt tee (Apr 17, 2013)

Nice looking job, may I ask what kind of paint you are working with as I need to do mine


----------



## great white (Apr 17, 2013)

sgt tee said:


> Nice looking job, may I ask what kind of paint you are working with as I need to do mine



Tremclad primer over the galvanized parts and Tremclad gloss black as a top coat.

It's going on with a brush since the galvanized rails aren't smooth anyways. A few brush marks isn't going to make much diff....


----------



## sgt tee (Apr 17, 2013)

Thanks I will goggle that name and see who sells it by me, Thanks.......Pete


----------



## sgt tee (Apr 17, 2013)

I see Home depot carrys it but not Lowes, is this the primer you bought, there are different types, as this one is the most expensive
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/rust-primer-grey-378l/980030
I may be able to get away with just re-painting my trailer as its not rusted, just needs a face lift


----------



## sgt tee (Apr 17, 2013)

You brushing that on, you would never know it from the picture, looks great. I have new LED tail lights for my rig. I did notice that my small 12 is not sitting on the front bunk, just the 2 back ones. I am thinking its account of the strap as it pulls the boat up some. I dont know if I should shim that or leave it


----------



## sgt tee (Apr 17, 2013)

They dont carry that type of paint here in Pa. Home Depot, are you from Canada?? seems thats where you can buy it at H.D.


----------



## great white (Apr 17, 2013)

Primer has to be used on galvanized before the rust/metal paint is applied.

It can go directly on the metal if not galvanized. Its all on the can directions.

Yes, i am in Canada.


----------



## sgt tee (Apr 17, 2013)

Canada sells that type paint. my trailer is painted black already, I just want to touch it up, You guys probably just finished putting your ice fishing gear away


----------



## great white (Apr 17, 2013)

sgt tee said:


> Canada sells that type paint. my trailer is painted black already, I just want to touch it up, You guys probably just finished putting your ice fishing gear away


Tremclad paint is sold in Canada eh?

You don't say.....


----------



## great white (Apr 18, 2013)

Final coat is done. Start putting it all back together this weekend!


----------



## great white (Apr 20, 2013)

All put together and almost ready to roll!












I have a few electrical connections to make yet, a touch more wood working (couple small beauty panels) and a couple u bolts to add to the frame (they're on order).

But it's pretty much ready for this season and a trip back to the cottage to spread my fathers ashes in his favorite harbor.


----------



## sgt tee (Apr 20, 2013)

Beautiful looking boat, and you are good person, Dad is watching over you and very proud also. Stay well and be careful on the water.............Pete


----------



## bigwave (Apr 20, 2013)

Outstanding job Great white, you are a true inspiration. Your build is what makes this site great. Your fathers spirit will always be with you. 

P.S. when you going to make me one of those covers...... :lol:


----------



## sgt tee (Apr 20, 2013)

You have to wait your turn on the cover


----------



## great white (Apr 21, 2013)

Sorry gents, making the cover was many things but fun wasn't one of them.

Never going through that again if i don't have too.....


----------



## great white (Sep 19, 2013)

Been a while since I've done anything to the boat. Money and time has turned it into a "garage ornament".

I've been wanting to get back on it, but as mentioned, money. 

I've always wanted to install a raised seat up front, but when I started adding up parts at the boat store it gets fairly expensive: 80 bucks for a telescoping post, 40 bucks for the deck mount, 30 for the seat mount, etc....

So what's a "frugal" guy to do?

Well, my town is having it's fall cleanup days this week. People have all sorts of stuff at the curbs. I was driving down the road and noticed a beat up office chair. 

Now I'm not one to root through peoples garbage, but that telescoping gas strut mechanism in the chair was a bit too tempting. It looked like something I could work with. I swallowed my pride and went to knock on the guys door. "No problem, take 'er away!" was his answer (I feel the need to ask before I take something, even if it's in a garbage pile). He seemed appreciative that I would ask first.

So I get it home and strip the chair down to the strut. The seat bottom, back and casters goes right out into my own cleanup pile at the curb. 

A quick test shows that the office seat attachments are very close to fitting my fishing seats. Some minor work will get it just right to bolt on. 

Then I look at attaching it to the bottom/boat seat. Hmmm, I'll need to make a custom plate, woodwork, mounting, etc. That sucks and will cost money in more materials.

Then I think why not use the caster bottom of the office chair? It's already sized to fit the post, it's got long legs I can bolt to the OEM seat top and the legs are long enough to spread the load out and make the seat super stable. 

I pull it back off the garbage pile, strip the wheels off and bingo, it will support the seat post just fine. I'll cut the caster "spider legs" off to fit under my decking and since it's nice and wide it will spread the load over the whole deck seat. I will have to make a hole in the OEM aluminum seat for the post to sit down in about 2", but that's no big deal. All that will be visible is a hole in the carpeting that the seat post will go through. 

Here's a quick and dirty pic:






It's about 6-8" off the top deck when retracted and it extends about 4-5". The folded seat back will make a nice support for the boat cover as that's the longest unsupported run of the cover. I'll add a smooth covering ove rhte seat back as added insurance against ripping the cover. It's a milspec rip stop material, but no point in taking chances if I don't have to. 

The seat also swivels on ball bearing down in the post so it's nice and smooth when you rotate. A nice side bonus is that there's a seat "tilt" adjustment also. Not really needed, but it's always nice to be able to "fine tune" for comfort.



I also saved the office seat arm rests. I may or may not use them as retractable/removeable arm rests on the fishing seat (what luxury!) and perhaps a place to fit a drink holder. Maybe a small velcro closing pouch for smaller items like keys, fish pliers, etc. 

Not too bad so far for a "0" dollar investment and few moments of swallowing my pride.


----------



## Mojo (Sep 19, 2013)

Great Idea! You could cut down those caster legs on to around 3-4 inches long each and not take up so much deck space then you could drill right thru the top of them and mount in place.. no need to go under the deck then. If you really wanted to get fancy make a nice box to go around the base with a hole in the top for the post then and carpet that and it would look pretty clean.

Good Luck.


----------



## great white (Sep 19, 2013)

Mojo said:


> Great Idea! You could cut down those caster legs on to around 3-4 inches long each and not take up so much deck space then you could drill right thru the top of them and mount in place.. no need to go under the deck then. If you really wanted to get fancy make a nice box to go around the base with a hole in the top for the post then and carpet that and it would look pretty clean.
> 
> Good Luck.



Thats an idea for sure, but I would like to get the 2-4 inches lower that a below deck mount would give so the seat will fit nicely under the cover and provide support for it while traveling. 

What i might do is compromise between the two options and flip the base to mount it to the underside of the decking.

Your method has it's merits though. When i build the deck supports over the original bench seat I added bracing where the boat store available mounts would attach. Would be easy peasy to just cut the legs to that length and bolt them down. The extra inches in height might make sitting more comfortable too.

Lots to consider now.....which option to choose.....


----------



## great white (Sep 20, 2013)

So I decided to dive right in and just get it done. 

I cut down the spider to fit in the framing for the upper deck. Then I shaved it down on the bench sander as thin as possible. A couple carriage bolts, some carpet glue, a bit of welding/cutting/drilling to make the seat mounting area fit and:











Very solid and comfy for sitting when fully extended. Removes easily and the bench area is still flat and easy to sit on for rowing (if needed, crossed fingers for not ever needed!).

It rotates freely, so I may devise a way to lock it in an orientation for transiting from one "honey hole" to another. Probably just some kind of strap, nothing fancy.

It sits maybe a couple inches too high for my preference once the cover is on:






The seat back also is a little bit too "sharp" for my preferences. It's rounded and smooth, there's just a touch too much tension over it. What I may do is make the seat back removable or maybe shave down the offending seat ribbing a little bit. 

Overall, I'd call it a success for spending absolutely no money on it!


----------



## Mojo (Sep 20, 2013)

That turned out great dude. Good Job!


----------



## kylerprochaska (Sep 20, 2013)

I keep coming back to this build for ideas and motivation, great build and great tribute!


----------



## Kismet (Sep 21, 2013)

> Overall, I'd call it a success for spending absolutely no money on it!



Wonderful job, and GREAT improvisation on the seat.

In the pictures of your Dad in the boat, it sure seems to be more capable a craft than I would have though a 12' would be in somewhat choppy water.

Neat that you are making, and continuing, memories.

=D>


----------



## great white (Sep 21, 2013)

Kismet said:


> > Overall, I'd call it a success for spending absolutely no money on it!
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Its not the typical 12' lake boats most guys are used to. 

It's 54" at the chine on the beam.

It hardly even flinches running 2-3 foot Atlantic chop. That's about as rough as I would go though as it really starts to pound with even minimal speed if you get a bit of air under the bow coming off the back of a wave. 

Loosing power and going abeam the waves wouldn't be fun either. There's always a second boat with me if i venture outside the harbor mouth, it's usually a dead sea state day, the sea anchor is out if not under power and we never go more than a mile or 2 offshore.

Or we may pop out of the harbor mouth, rip up the shoreline to the next harbor and drop a line or tie up and grab a sea side coffee at the local store.

It's a "salty dog" tinny and pretty capable for what it is, but it's still just a 12' tin. No sense pushing yer luck any further than is prudent....


----------



## TinSeahorse (Apr 14, 2014)

Great work! Please add more pic soon.


----------



## great white (Jun 1, 2014)

Well, this one horse town has pee'd me off again. 

Went looking for some oil for the leg on the 8 HP Johnson. 

Nada. Zip. Zilch. Nothing. 

Just another long line of frustrations in this bloody place. 

If you want something even a bit off the "usual" you have to order it in. This place is like living death for a car guy like me. 

Even the two stores that list it on the corporate web sites don't have it (Walmart and Crappy tire).

On another note, the boat goes into the water for the first rip of the season tomorrow. 

I also ordered a set of repo decals for the engine cover. This winter the outboard will get torn down for a repaint and refresh of wearing parts.


----------



## Yannie (Jun 1, 2014)

I feel your pain. I currently live in BFE Arkansas and literally EVERYTHING I need has to be ordered online and delivered.


----------



## great white (Jun 3, 2014)

Well, had the boat out on the lake yesterday. It wasn't quite ready but I needed a search object for a training evolution. I'm search and rescue flying helicopters and a gent was doing an upgrade ride. We needed a scenario where they had to search and recover, so I took the boat out to give them a target. 

First rookie move of the year: left the stern plug out. And I reminded myself several times to put the stern plug in. Still forgot it. No real tragedy, I launched and beached it right away to move the truck off the launch ramp. By the time I got back, there was about 1-2 inches in the stern and the boat was sitting flat on it's bottom. A quick bail fixed that. Shook my head at myself and figured that was my "one" for the first trip of the season. 

Once up and ready, we crossed the lake (21 miles long and about 300 feet deep). The wind was up and there was about a 2 foot chop and just a threat of whitecaps, although none. There was me and another fellow in the boat and it couldn't get up on plane with the 8 HP. It was close, but just too much weight. It chopped though the waves like the champ I remembered it to be. Not pounding rough, just lots of bow splash. 

We had another 14 with us that had a Honda 35 on it and the boys in that one were in absolute misery. It was either spine pounding and staring at sky or plowing slow as a snail. They couldn't get it on plane even with a guy sitting on the bow seat. I suspect it was that heavy 4 stroke hanging off the transom and maybe a bit of a trim issue.

Once I dropped off my passenger (part of the scenario) I headed further up the lake to beach the boat. As soon as I got into deep enough water to open it up the old 8 HP I remember came to life. I could feel it raise the bow out of the hole and after a little nose high plowing it leveled out and got on plane. It split the waves now rather than pushing them aside. The boys in the 14 were still miserable, but I was planing the tops and hardly pounding at all. I can feel the added weight of the decks, but it will still plane. 

It was much smoother with the added weight of the decking, but I'm pretty close to the max for the 8 hp I think. I could feel it working hard. Once on plane I could back it off a little, but not much. 

Couple times on the way back across the lake (much faster trip as the helo picked up my passenger and returned him to base), the Johnson changed pitch (almost like a muffler had blown out) and I dropped off plane just in case. Once off plane, it went back to normal and I could wick it back up again to run for another couple minutes before it would change pitch again.

Rookie move #2 and what could have been my end: Once on plane, I realized i didn't have my vest on. I reached out for the vest and as I stretched, my other hand came off the tiller. The motor instantly snapped to the right and the boat entered a skid spin/turn. I was thrown sideways and almost overboard. The gunwale stopped me but now I was pinned and the boat entering its second 360. The throttle kill wasn't working because I hadn't gone far enough to pull the kill clip, which was tethered to my belt loop. I also didn't want to go over because this water is about 5 degrees C and I likely wasn't going to be getting back in the boat. I manged to reach over and chop the throttle just as we finished the second 360. The boat dropped to below the chine in the water and stopped dead. 

Lesson learned: don't do a damned thing on plane besides pilot. If I need to do anything else, dead in the water first. 

The thing that ticks me off about rookie 1 and 2 is that I'm not inexperienced at this. I just had a couple really stupid moments that I know better of. One was embarrassing, the other could have been deadly. The boat is getting a small boarding ladder for the stern now too....

So I'm kind of at a crossroads with the decking. I'm half thinking of stripping out most of the deck out to just a floor, half leave it all in.

I like the way it handled rough water with the weight, but I miss the way it used to jump up out of the hole and plane right away.

There's also an issue with the tilt. It is very sticky to use and the auto tilt feature (in case it bottoms) doesn't work. I had the misfortune of dragging the skeg a couple times and nothing. It's an important feature where I am because almost every bottom everywhere in this province is rock. The bars that the tilt locks to are very, very VERY rusty from Dad using it almost exclusively in salt, so replacing those might fix it.

So, hopefully this post was entertaining and perhaps a few things were learned by others from my moment of stupidness....


----------



## great white (Jun 17, 2014)

Well, I've gutted the boat down to the single bottom deck. While it would plan fine, I just wasn't happy with it's performance overall. I like it light and peppy, so the next evolution will be lighter. The front deck is gone, the wing boxes are gone. 

Plan is a smaller cover for the gas tank area behind the rear deck that is still in place and perhaps a low, small deck up front just to give something to stand on instead of the hull. 

Bilge pumps will stay, as well as a battery box. The little triangle bow seat will get a small AL cover to make it a storage locker area. 

Probably add a little weight back with a Bimini top as well. 

The rest will just be small holders and nook areas for loose bits. 

I'm thinking AL for all of it, but that gets expensive really fast....


----------



## great white (Jun 17, 2014)

When I took the boat from the cottage, I took dad's old 2 HP Evinrude also. 

It's a 1980 model, although he always though it was a 77 since that's what the old guy up the road told him when he gave it to him (yup, it's been free twice now). 

Dad used it a little bit, but wasn't much for routine maintenance so it ended up tucked in a corner of the cottage crawlspace. Used in the Atlantic and crammed into a damp dirt crawlspace. I'm pretty sure I remember him loosing it over the side once too. 

So you know what it was like when I pulled it out: Locked solid. 

I chucked it in the bottom of the boat, hauled it home and it's sat on the motor rack for couple years now. 

I figure it would make a nice "backup" motor to hang off the transom since it only weights about 15-20lbs with a tank of gas. The bottoms are nearly all rock here and the 2 HP would beat rowing back to the launch any day! So I haul it over to the work bench and give it a look over. 

Yup, hanging on the motor stand hadn't made it any better. Still locked solid. 

I pull the motor cover off and there a tiny bit of movement in the flywheel. As I wiggle it back and forth I can see the prop move. So it's all good right down the leg. 

Piston, gotta be the piston. Likely the rings are rusted.

So I try and pull the spark plug to soak it down with penetrating fluid. 

Nope, spark plug it not coming out. A little heat and cold and I get it to turn, but it immediately drops a couple degrees off axis with the hole threads. 

Not good. 

I finish pulling it out and it's obvious the plug was either jammed back in until it grabbed or the threads has rotted away in the wet. Oh well, nothing new and an easy fix: thread insert will fix it up just fine. 

After a week of soaking I try to turn it. Nope, locked as solid as day one. 

Well, it's probably knackered, so I pull the head off to look. Not too bad in the bore actually. I drop more penetrating in the bore (piston is above the ports) and walk away for another week. 

Try it again: nothing. Still locked as bad as day one. 

I grab a wood block and give it a rap on the piston. Hard as stone. The wood actually splits.

Oh Boy, this is beginning to look like a rip it down only to throw it away job.....

So, time to get aggressive. 

I figure the piston and bore are going to be junk, so I grab a piece of steel bar that's just a smidge less wide at the piston and then start whacking it with the hammer. Surely the rings will break, the piston will crack and the bore will scar I'm thinking. 

After a half hour of this, I get a MM or so of movement. Keep the oil to it, keep pounding. 

I eventually get the piston to bottom, but it's still solid. 

Oh great, not it stuck at the bottom of the bore and no way to pound it back up without beating on the crank weights or the aluminum rod cap. That's not happening.

So I grab a great big rubber strap wrench and reef on the flywheel. 

Creak!

A MM or so of movement. 

And so it went. Creak up, hammer down. 

After another hour of so, the piston finally gives up and turn sort of freely. I whip the con rod bolts out and drive the piston out of the bore. 

Surprisingly, the bore looks great. Just a small stain of a rust ring where the rings had sat. 

The piston tells a different story. 

Aluminum corrosion had gotten a foot hold near the top of the ring lands and that was what was holding it fast in the bore. The piston rings had also been oxided into place an would come out with out breaking them. 

Once apart though, it all cleaned up well and is in good shape. The rings snapped like dry twigs. A set of gaskets, a hone and new rings should fix it right up. 

One depart from stock will be I'm going to paint it white and put the 1989 Johnson 2 HP Colt decals on it. This way, the color scheme will match the repop decals on the 8 HP Johnson. 

Doesn't bother me changing it from Evinrude to Johnson, the 2 HP motors were the same across the board as they're all OMC so no big deal. I think the 2 HP was the same almost forever anyways. I've seen a 71 that looked just like my 80, and the 89's I've seen look the same also. Guess the 2 HP was low end market enough that it wasn't worth changing it until they changed hands Bombardier and different suppliers were sourced...


----------



## great white (Jun 18, 2014)

Called my old boat shop, Whitewater marine, in Sackville today. 

Talked to my counter guy and had him price up a list of bits to get the old 2 HP put back together. He comes back with 60 bucks. I ask for which part and he says all of it and he's got it all in stock. 

I love that shop. 

I tell him I'm in another province and he says no problem, they can drop it in the mail for about 13 bucks. 

Done. 

It's so nice working with a shop that knows what they are doing and goes that little bit extra to make sure you get what you need. I can honestly say I've never had a bad experience with those boys.

Great shop. Well done.


----------



## great white (Jun 23, 2014)

All the goodies showed up today from Whitewater marine. 

Next up is stripping the blue paint (evinrude) and bringing it back up Johnson white. 

Then break the glaze with a light run of the hone and put 'er back together. 

Last up will be the 89 Johnson Colt decals to make it match the style of my 1989 8 HP 

Easiest build I've ever done. 

Kinda nice for a change. Simple, easy, fun.


----------



## great white (Jun 29, 2014)

Popped the new rings in, fresh gaskets and put the 2 hp back together. Also had to helicoil the spark plug hole. Just too far gone to save.

Into the pail of water and sure enough, it wouldn't run. 

Off comes the carb, blow it apart and let the bits sit in the ultrasonic cleaner all afternoon.

Pop it back together and "zero" all the mixture screws.

Back in to the pail. 

Nope, no go. 

After frigging with it and partial runs here and there, I push the lever past start in to the "fast" setting on a blind hunch

Pull and off she goes!

So I have something funky going on with the points or condenser I'm thinking. It won't run on slow, but it does on start or fast. It will only start when past the start position in to fast. 

Well, I'm only in to the little bugger for 60 bucks so I can spend a little more on it. 

I'm thinking of gutting the bits out and going with an electronic module to run the spark. 

I hate points....


----------



## great white (Jul 1, 2014)

Ordered a nova ii ignition module today.

No more points for the little kicker.


----------



## great white (Jul 20, 2014)

Module showed up and I popped it in iaw the instructions.

First pull on a cold engine and it fired right off. No choke at all. Settled into a nice smooth idle, best it ever has actually.

Then, about 45 seconds later......silence.

Troubleshooting revealed a no spark condition. Chased it around a bit and then swapped the points back on. Nice fat spark again and it runs fine.

Just to confirm, I reinstall the nova II. Yep. No spark.

Back on the points go. Runs again.

So, sent an email to the seller for a replacement and we'll see where that goes. No worries if its a bust, I've only got about 15-20 bucks in the module so far. 

I will say this: for the short time it was running, the module made it run very smoothly and started super easy. I would still like to install one, but am only willing to put so much money in to a "back up" outboard.....


----------



## Kismet (Jul 20, 2014)

You present a great narrative. Thank you.

I like them little-bitty motors. Add in to your equation that your skill in being able to pop things in and out on the engine sure makes them more economical.

Nicely done.

_(sadly lacking in pictures, however.)_


----------



## great white (Jul 20, 2014)

Seller agreed to replacing the module, so I bought a second one and he's just going to throw the replacement in the same package. 

I get a spare (planned to anyways) and he saves shipping on the replacement.

Everyone wins.


----------



## jasper60103 (Jul 21, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=360279#p360279 said:


> great white » Yesterday, 9:33 pm[/url]"]Seller agreed to replacing the module, so I bought a second one and he's just going to throw the replacement in the same package.
> 
> I get a spare (planned to anyways) and he saves shipping on the replacement.
> 
> Everyone wins.



Just an FYI. There's a few threads on this ignition conversion using Nova modules.
I thought it may be helpful...


https://www.aomci.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1388819965/0
https://www.aomci.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1384297172/0
https://www.aomci.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1384084400/0


----------



## great white (Jul 21, 2014)

Interesting read. Here's a guy running one on a 2 HP:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Md-6H0rfEeI

He has a couple vids. Never mentions module death.

But that doesn't mean it won't happen to him too... :shock:


----------



## Chance174 (Jul 23, 2014)

For some reason not a single one of your pictures is showing up for me right now.


----------



## great white (Jul 23, 2014)

My photo bucket account was "hacked" and most of it was deleted.


----------



## great white (Jul 26, 2014)

Decided to hedge my bet and ordered a couple NOS atom red modules while they can still be found.

These are reported to be designed to run with the omc outboards and several users relate many years of trouble free use and still going.

I'll try the two new nova II modules and if they die ill just consider it one of the "100 ways to not make a light bulb" lessons.

:LOL2:


----------



## great white (Aug 6, 2014)

Atom modules showed up today. I'll try em out on the 2 HP this weekend.


----------



## great white (Aug 9, 2014)

Atom module is on. Dropped a new coil on the motor too. The old one was working, but it had several cracks and I already had a new one on hand so on it went.

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKqXSsgyMNA[/youtube]

Pretty good. Should make a good trolling motor and/or backup in case the 8 hp poops out on me. Seems to run forever on the smallest of drops of fuel left in the tank. 

Needs to be warmed up though. It's a little fussy until then. It runs cold with the choke off, it's just not smooth. Takes 30 seconds to 1 minute to get nice and stable. Then it will idle right down to where you can count the individual firings.

The lid/rope starter is on the bench and painted white with the proper decals to match my 1989 Johnson. The lowers will also get a fresh coat of white. The 2hp is actually a 1980 Evinrude, but it's all OMC and it's pretty much all the same for the 2hp thorough it's production years so I don't mind changing the looks. 

Besides, matching outboards look nice on the back of the boat.

So, if I think about it, I'm in to the 2 hp for about 200 bucks. The outboard was free but locked solid, had to buy rings (all broken) decals, paint and the atom module (points were fine, just wanted the module).

200 bucks for a solid little kicker is pretty good I think!


----------



## great white (Aug 9, 2014)

Hmmm, video won't link on teh vofum, so here's the plain link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKqXSsgyMNA


----------



## great white (Aug 9, 2014)

Try again:

[youtube]https://youtu.be/QKqXSsgyMNA[/youtube]


----------

