# Starcraft 15ft V-Hull (adding side console)



## tcampbell011 (Mar 12, 2013)

Hi there everyone. I've been lurking around here for awhile now, but its finally time to get my own thread going. I started this build last year and have been slowly stripping off the old paint over the winter. Now that spring is here, its time to get back to work.

The boat was originally a "runabout" I think. The person that had it before me installed a wooden deck and must've converted her to a tiller style boat. Well I want to change her back, but not into a runabout more of a Lund style boat. I have already purchased a 40hp mercury that will be perfect for this boat. I'm pretty committed to doing this the right way, and I realize it won't be the most economical (I've been saving up for this). I am going to take my time. Here is what I have done already:

1. Removed old decking
2. Removed old paint
3. Painted inside hull with white Rustoleum topside paint
4. Turned boat over and stripped the outside

I am learning a lot doing this boat, I don't come from much experience when it come to building stuff. I'm just a college kid, so any help I can get will be GREATLY appreciated. Here are some pics.


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## tcampbell011 (Mar 12, 2013)

Here are some pics of the trailer. I want to re-furb the trailer, but with my limited mechanical knowledge I don't really know where to start. Feel free to make any suggestions, I am including some pictures. Also if you see anything that's wrong/could break let me know. I got a nasty flat tire last year going 75 on the highway and I think it might have bent the axle, does it really matter if its bent a-little as long as she still rides??

From my research here is what I think I will do to the trailer:

Replace bearings (by a pro)
remove rust (maybe strip paint too)
Use some sort of rust remover / preventive (suggestions? POR15? Rustoleum?) 
Paint (black tractor/implement paint probably)
Replace Rollers with bumpers (possibly bumper boards)
Replace winch and strap
Replace trailer coupler with a 2" one

I think those repairs are in my skill set. Although I haven't used an angle grinder before...I'd appreciate any tips you could offer. I am probably going to watch some YouTube videos about it before I start. I might not know how to use an angle grinder, but I did stay at a holiday inn express last night.


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## nick4203 (Mar 12, 2013)

nice boat setup sounds like your on the right track use caution with the angle grinder and with a wire wheel wear safty glasses they shoot out them lil wires and stick in your clothing eye what ever it hits pretty much lol but its easy watch out for it kicking to and you will be good wire wheels are a lot cheaper at harbor freight 5-6 bucks than home depot 15 and they burned up the same for me


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## tcampbell011 (Mar 12, 2013)

Do you think I should use paint stripper on the trailer? or just wire wheel then paint?

Are there such things as rust removers, that work similar to paint stripper for rust?


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## Ringo Steele (Mar 12, 2013)

rust remover...Naval Jelly works well.


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## nick4203 (Mar 12, 2013)

i have seen stuff for rust but seemed it needed to be soaked in it and a trailer would be difficult to soak haha

just start taking it all apart and take your time prepping thats 90% of the work for decent paint job keep up the good work


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## tcampbell011 (Mar 12, 2013)

Yeah I've been reading about something called Ospho that turns the rust into some other substance. I might just wirewheel it as good as I can, apply Oshpo then prime/paint. 

I think taking it apart would be best too, but I'm not sure how far I should go. I've taken all the easy stuff off. Should I mess with whats underneath? The axle and springs? Its sure going to be hard to paint in there without taking them off.


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## FerrisBueller (Mar 16, 2013)

It's looking really good so far! It will definitely be worth it in the end!


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## stone4140 (Mar 17, 2013)

I did a very similar project a few years back. Check out the link below. You will probably find many similar discusions. As for the trailer I wire wheeled the bad parts and then used rustoleom rust metal primer before painting. I can't tell ya how well that worked out for me. It turned what could have been a summer project into a weekend project. It looks great especially with a rustoleum flat black finish and its held up. I spent more money and resouces on getting new rims,tires,bearings,hubs,hitch,winch,lights ect... Looks are important but having the thing safe is #1. I did the trailer the following summer so I could actual use the dang boat. So for 1 season I had a nice boat and a very very ghetto trailer Good look and enjoy. Starcrafts are great boats. How is the transom on yours?

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=16944&start=60


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## tcampbell011 (Mar 17, 2013)

stone4140 said:


> As for the trailer I wire wheeled the bad parts and then used rustoleom rust metal primer before painting. I can't tell ya how well that worked out for me. It turned what could have been a summer project into a weekend project. It looks great especially with a rustoleum flat black finish and its held up. https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=16944&start=60



Now that you say it, I think that's exactly what I'm going to do. The rust isn't even THAT bad. I already ordered a new winch and coupler. I am still looking for a rolling jack for it, the one I had before was pretty bad. How should I scuff up the painted areas on the trailer? I was thinking maybe a wirewheel on a drill, that way I'll get all the loser stuff.



stone4140 said:


> How is the transom on yours?
> 
> https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=16944&start=60



It seems really sturdy to me, I'm not an expert though. Is there any way to test without damaging it? It's been painted over on the inside and there's aluminum covering the outside. I AM planing on replacing the wood on the backside of the transom, I'm not sure if there's a name for that piece. 

Stone- I REALLY like your build and I might copy a lot of it. 

That aluminum ladder idea is ingenious, did it work well for you? That would save me a ton of money. 
Do you like the uflex steering system?? 
Do you know which seat base your using? Would you recommend it?

I was thinking along the lines of what you have, with a livewell/bench in the back, and box storage under the two front seats. Looking at yours makes me think I want to have the passenger seat removable.


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## stone4140 (Mar 18, 2013)

Glad you like it. I was going to take out the splashwell and put a casting deck and live well in but actually fishing became more important than a casting deck for my brotherWinter and spring were passing quickly. Hopefully this project your are on is for next year. If not you are gonna be hitting water late unless your unemployed. If time is not an issue get that transom out. Its a reletively cheap and easy project and you got it stripped down already. If its not something you want to do, take a knife and just lightly stab a few spots and see how it feels. Mine was crumbling apart at the top so I had no choice. I'm glad now I had no choice or I would have skipped it. I mean in good weather and with the materials ready to go your only adding a weekend of extra work. Thats a decision you will have to make. I am looking at it in hindsight. It seems basic now but I cursed at a few steps. As for the trailer and scuffing up the paint I love using an orbital sander on decent paint and a wire wheel on an angle grinder for bad spots. Both tools are cheap and pretty darn decent at Harbor freight. Some of their tools are beat but I own both of those and am pleased with them especially the orbital sander. The ladder was great! I got way more than I needed for mostly free I put an add on craigslist and 1 guy gave me a broken one free and the other was huge and 20 bucks. It made for extra work but it worked great and its light. Its aluminum! I would also suggest using gluvit on the interior seems and rivets below the water line. My boat is from the early 60's and there is not a drop of water in that boat after 8 hours of fishing. I credit that to the gluvit. 1 quart will do the whole boat. The uflex steering is awesome! Went in like nothing and I think I found the whole kit with a wheel for 120. I had to buy the extra parts for holding the cable at the motor though because the boat was pulley and cable steering before. That was like 60 for that piece. For the seat base I used Springfield 9" Round Pedestal Bases. They work great and were on clearance at gander mt when I bought them. Don't forget to add flotation before putting in the floor. And if depending on what thickness decking you put in you will want to reinforce behind where you put your pedistal bases in. I used 3/4'" decking with no reinforcement and its been fine. If you go with 1/2" put a plate of metal or extra wood behind it. I am no pro at this but I had fun doing it and I find the boat to be pleasant to ride,fish and look at. Enjoy the project, think outside of the box on materials and you can save some cash. Feel free to ask me anything as you go ahead. Once the weather breaks I can take any pics of stuff you want to see e.g. steering install, bracing,transom....


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## tcampbell011 (Mar 19, 2013)

I have already used gluvit on the inside. It didn't leak much when I was using it before, I imagine it'll hardly leak at all now. 

I'm really not on any schedule, I have a 14ft jon that I am using when I go fishing. Its not the best on choppy lakes though. I want to take my time because I plan on having this boat for a long time. 

I think what I am going to do with the trailer is, take care of all the stuff I can remove and bring inside to paint. (its too cold to paint outside now). I am starting with the part that holds the winch and stops the bow on the trailer. This is the worst rust I can see. I'll attach the before pics. 

Is this motor similar to how yours hooked up? I don't know anything about it, I didn't even see it hooked up before. Would I have to get an adapter for uFlex? and is it "no feedback" where the wheel stays in one spot?

Thanks! I will probably be asking you a ton a questions, I wouldn't even know where to start by myself. I really appreciate it!!!


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## stone4140 (Mar 19, 2013)

Not sure what "no feedback" means. I'm guessing I'm glad its a feature. As for how it works and attaching it I am not familiar with Mercury which it looks like you have. But the principal is the same with all of them. The end of the steering cable needs to be held stationary. There are a few different styles some clamp on to the hole in the splashwell, some use a clamp block wich attaches to the transom and some go into a tube in the outboard. Then the inner steering cable attaches and pivotes on the arm coming off your motor. Mercury people may be more familiar with what you have specifically. The pictures below are just off the internet but show how its work. The clamp block I attached is from Uflex it bolts on to the transom the steering cable slides into the tube and then attaches in different ways to the motor.

Clamp Block and tube are almost as much as the hole kit. See if your splashwell,motor or transom have a place already there. Uflex is compatibale with most other rotary steering setups


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## tcampbell011 (Mar 25, 2013)

Could I just leave the bottom of the boat bare, and only paint the sides?

I've heard the saying, "once you paint it, you always paint it". Does that hold true here?


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## Driftingrz (Mar 25, 2013)

painting exterior? depends on the paint and prep work you do.. and how hard you are on the boat, Me personally i dont baby my boat. i beach it on sand/mud.. anything. you could always use something like steelflex. i believe it holds up better than most paints.. but i havent used it so i dont know.. alot of guys here have used it on their rigs

You got a nice solid tin to work with, looking forward to seeing this project. im hoping to upgrade in size and to a console steer in the next year or so


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## jvanhees (Mar 25, 2013)

keep up the good work, and dont have too many coldsmokes or it will never get done! I have the same trailer for my 18' Landau.


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## tcampbell011 (Mar 26, 2013)

jvanhees said:


> dont have too many coldsmokes or it will never get done!



Oh yeah them babies are strong. Veryyy smooth too. Mmmmmm

As far as painting, I think I am going to do battleship grey steelflex on the bottom, with the curved line painted white with rustoleum and the sides painted with black rustoleum paint. 

Do you think it would look weird having two different types of paint on the hull? (steelflex on the bottom, rustoleum on the sides) I think I remember reading someones build where they did it...

I'll have photos up soon of the trailer parts being wire wheeled, the ospho is ordered and in the mail.


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## stone4140 (Mar 29, 2013)

You will be surpised when its back on the trailer how little of the bottom you will see It would not look weird. Just pick a low line for the steelflex to stop.


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## tcampbell011 (Apr 12, 2013)

here are some pics, I'm not doing anything particularly exciting. Right now I am wire wheeling any part that I can take off the trailer to remove the paint/rust. I cut out all the rollers and left one that will help the boat slide onto the bunk board (hopefully). I have also applied Ospho to some of the pieces. In the last picture you can see where the rust turned black.


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## jvanhees (Apr 12, 2013)

That wire wheeling is fun!!!

My trailer which is the same, is the exact same color blue too....wth

Keep up the good work...I was thinking the same thing for my paint job for mine, but have now chosen black steel flex. Get some pics up when its done! I wouldnt think the rustoleom and the steelflex is a bad idea


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## tcampbell011 (Apr 22, 2013)

here is the color scheme I'm thinking.


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## tcampbell011 (Apr 25, 2013)

Grrr so I just got my steelflex in the mail and it was really banged up. One of the parts (Part: 2) was cracked on the top and alittle had gotten out. Im too late to call Fasco, but I hammered the lid back down to seal it. I wonder if its still good? I would definitely rather just keep it than going though the hassle of returning it.


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## tcampbell011 (Apr 26, 2013)

Just talked to Jerry. He said I can just use masking tape or something to keep it in the jar if I need to. I guess its not a big deal if its sealed or not.

The procedure he told me was to sand with 60 grit sandpaper and then wipe with acetone before applying.


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