# new boater needing help with motor



## kriegersa (May 19, 2010)

Hey everyone, well a little while ago i picked up my self a 1971 14' flatbottom, recently i steelflex'd it and i was able to get in on the water yesterday. AWESOME no leaks... however the motor was the next problem.. i've ran the motor before and it ran good but yesterday is was quite embarrassing, i got it to run after 2 pulls then it ran for about a minute then it died, almost like it wasn't getting any fuel. this is the first boat that i've owned and i dont have any idea what it could be. it was running fine in idle but when you would start to go/put it in gear it would run hard then just cut out, almost like it was starving for fuel.

other information: the motor is a 1974 7.0 hp sears ted Williams, water and air cooled. 

if you need any other information just please leave a reply, i just want to get out on the water and do some fishing. so please help me out [-o< 

Thank you in advanced for any and all help.

-Kriegersa


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## wolfmjc (May 19, 2010)

check your line bulb and fittings first, an air leak in one of these could cause fuel to not be pulled into the motor correctly, next water in fuel? or leak {pulling air into carb?} or trash in carb? of course i would check to see if the spark plugs are being fired by the coil, you can buy a tester cheep at any auto parts store.
Duh!....sorry if you motor cranks and idles then its not the coils or plugs, not if it runs strong for a bit anyway....most likely a fuel or carb problem, fi you clean the bowls on the carbs be sure you use a good carb spray....napa brand for example, but if the gaskets tear when you pull the bowls you will have to get new ones...old motor= sticky gaskets...


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## kriegersa (May 19, 2010)

wolfmjc said:


> check your line bulb and fittings first, an air leak in one of these could cause fuel to not be pulled into the motor correctly, next water in fuel? or leak {pulling air into carb?} or trash in carb? of course i would check to see if the spark plugs are being fired by the coil, you can buy a tester cheep at any auto parts store.



if your talking about an external tank i dont have one, the gas in poured in on the top, im thinking/hoping it water in the fuel where i can just drain in it and fill her back up. just wondering but how expensive are carb kits?


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## wolfmjc (May 19, 2010)

depends on where you find them, the hard part can be adjusting them after you build them depending on if any special tools (sears weedeaters for example) are needed. usually you can replace most parts in a carb without changing the setting on the mixture and idle speed. ive seen some carb kits 30. to 60. on cars not sure what i paid for the kits on my dads 115 merc outboard which was a while ago...i rebuilt the carb on my model 19 aristocraft but it is a inboard inline 6 chevy.i recomend the manuel for your motor as it will give specific details on the motor and carbs.

the last small engine carb kit i got was 18.00 for a lawnmower.


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## wolfmjc (May 19, 2010)

just for the record does your motor use an oil mix? 
just courious because that could cause internal damage if not used resulting in low or no compression in cylinder or valve train......


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (May 19, 2010)

Check the vent on the tank make sure it's open.


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## kriegersa (May 19, 2010)

wolfmjc said:


> just for the record does your motor use an oil mix?
> just courious because that could cause internal damage if not used resulting in low or no compression in cylinder or valve train......



yeah, it uses a 24:1 mix ratio, and i've been using the mix. now i use a 2 cycle mix is there a specific type of marine 2cycle mix you suggest?


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## kriegersa (May 19, 2010)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> Check the vent on the tank make sure it's open.



where would that vent be at?


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## cajuncook1 (May 19, 2010)

kriegersa said:


> lckstckn2smknbrls said:
> 
> 
> > Check the vent on the tank make sure it's open.
> ...



He is referring to the screw/vent on the cap of your fixed fuel tank on your motor. Alot of times we all forget about venting our tank. No air gets in and no flow or very poor flow fuel out.

Oh if you have shut off valve make sure it is all the way open. Carefully disconnect the fuel hose (with the shut off valve closed) going from the tank to the carburetor. Slowly open the shut off valve to see if you get a good flow of fuel. Have something to catch the fuel, don't want a big mess. 

If your fuel shut off valve is connected to a filter in the tank, you may want to check it is not occluded with gummed up oil or varnished gas. Make sure your tank is clean.

I agree with the above suggestion, possible a carburetor kit and cleaning. 

https://www.discount-marine-parts.com/ob_ted_williams.html (follow the links)

https://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?t=32788 (another link that may help you)

cajuncook1


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## wolfmjc (May 19, 2010)

kriegersa said:


> wolfmjc said:
> 
> 
> > just for the record does your motor use an oil mix?
> ...



I would prob use a marine type oil mainly one of the name brands for marine use, also new problems with ethanol in older engines you should put in something like sta-bil treatment for marine engine to help counteract ethanol that is in all fuels now.....thank feds!....you would use this with the oil and gas mix......I have had some people claim that the ethanol has caused problems with there carb gaskets ect......


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## wolfmjc (May 19, 2010)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> Check the vent on the tank make sure it's open.


 =D> forgot that one good point!


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## kriegersa (May 20, 2010)

cajuncook1 said:


> kriegersa said:
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> > lckstckn2smknbrls said:
> ...




oh wow... lol i tightened that sucker all the way thinking it would make the cap tighter... so if i did that it would be trying to get air in the tank but couldn't?

hahah i really hope thats all it is... lol.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (May 20, 2010)

The alcohol in the gas may have damaged the older fuel lines causing a blockage.


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## wolfmjc (May 20, 2010)

has happened to me before....btw- don't forget that drain plug either....i plead the 5th...lol


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## kriegersa (May 20, 2010)

wolfmjc said:


> kriegersa said:
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> > wolfmjc said:
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yeah, i use to sell riding mowers and i always told people not to use E85 cause of that same reason... lol i didn't think about mine but im really hoping its just the vent.

also i know this doesn't refer to the motor but if my plug hole thing is leaking. like A LOT is there something i else i can do to seal it up better. like could i get a bigger plug or what?

thanks again for everyone's help.


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## kriegersa (May 20, 2010)

wolfmjc said:


> has happened to me before....btw- don't forget that drain plug either....i plead the 5th...lol




im sorry but what is the drain plug?

lol as you can tell i dont know all the technical terms of boating just yet  BUT that's why i love this site


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## cajuncook1 (May 20, 2010)

cajuncook1 said:


> kriegersa said:
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> > lckstckn2smknbrls said:
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 I did some editing on a slightly earlier write... please see up dates

cajuncook1


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## wolfmjc (May 20, 2010)

kriegersa said:


> wolfmjc said:
> 
> 
> > has happened to me before....btw- don't forget that drain plug either....i plead the 5th...lol
> ...



in the back of the boat is a round hole used to drain water out of the boat when its out of the water, you put a rubber plug with a t-screw handle or a flip handle plug to keep water from coming in.....these will dryrot over time but are easily replaced...and trust me you will notice real quick if you dont put it in! some livewells that are built in will have a similar plug to fiil when you put the boat in the water, then put in the plug to keep the water in while moving down the lake or the water will drain out while under way,,,,


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## kriegersa (May 20, 2010)

wolfmjc said:


> kriegersa said:
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> > wolfmjc said:
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AHHH i know what your talking about. yeah its leaking from there, and the plug is brand new. but a lot of water is still coming in. what do you suggest? should i get a new plug or what? and i dont have a live well so no need to worry about that lol.


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## wolfmjc (May 20, 2010)

well is the plug big enough? I would also take the plug out and look to see if the hole or little tube is deformed(out of roung) or cracked, this would need to be welded....or maybe a defective plug? really look at the hole.....


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## kriegersa (May 20, 2010)

it does seem a little bent (around the edges) but cracked i dont know how you would tell other than looking in the hole.

and with it being bent around the edge could i hammer it back to shape? if so how would you go about doing that?

and you can get a larger size plug? i didn't know that haha.


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## wolfmjc (May 20, 2010)

you can gently tap! the tube to reshape it but very carefully.....You can get differet types of plugs depending on the maker....like bass pro vrs. walmart selections....and most are adjustable to a degree, i would try a new plug first...


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## cajuncook1 (May 20, 2010)

Get a new drain plug at Academy, with the t-tighter on the end. You plug it in and twist the t piece on the end and it causes the plug to expand in the hole and seal it off. If you keep your old plug, your boat will be the live well. LOL :LOL2: 

https://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=35500F picture of the boat plug

cajuncook1


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## kriegersa (May 20, 2010)

wolfmjc said:


> you can gently tap! the tube to reshape it but very carefully.....You can get differet types of plugs depending on the maker....like bass pro vrs. walmart selections....and most are adjustable to a degree, i would try a new plug first...



okay ill try a new plug first to be safe  and i like the t-plug thing, lol


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## kriegersa (May 20, 2010)

cajuncook1 said:


> Get a new drain plug at Academy, with the t-tighter on the end. You plug it in and twist the t piece on the end and it causes the plug to expand in the hole and seal it off. If you keep your old plug, your boat will be the live well. LOL :LOL2:
> 
> https://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=35500F picture of the boat plug
> 
> cajuncook1




something like this? lol. hahahahaha!!
and yes this is my boat, but its before the steelflex.


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## kriegersa (May 20, 2010)

okay so i found a leak... well kind of, i took this thing off (see picture 3) and 2 parts fell out the oring and that little pin (see picture 2), i figured out where and how they work =D> :mrgreen: but i dont know what i took off is called. lol! so im off to lowes to get a new oring. but the first picture is what it looks like now, that metal circle thing from what i can tell floats when the basin is filled with gas and the pin shuts off/blocks the hole from letting any more gas in.

now could this be the problem? cause of my lawn mower when this thing would flood it wouldn't start. could it be possible?


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## Loggerhead Mike (May 20, 2010)

> other information: the motor is a 1974 7.0 hp sears ted Williams, water and air cooled



I had one a year or two new'r than yours. it had the dumbest, screwyest designed fuel system id ever seen. i hope yours is not the same

anyhoo check the fuel pump diaphram. it sat straight in the carb and looks like a ballon that runs off crank vacuum

hopefully you just got a gum'd up jet


thats your float bowl, needle jet, and drain bolt. when you get everything cleaned up flip the carb upside down, install everything and adjust the float to were it sits level. blow threw the gas line and no air should come out. flip it back over and blow, air should blow threw the carb. that will tell you that your needle jet is not sticking and seating correctly

btw: nice rig!


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## wolfmjc (May 20, 2010)

Loggerhead Mike said:


> > other information: the motor is a 1974 7.0 hp sears ted Williams, water and air cooled
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 =D> nice post cant add to this!


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## perchin (May 21, 2010)

By just a glance at the float,, you need to invest in a can of carb cleaner. An old toothbrush works good when used with the cleaner. If you find that the jet is clogged up, spray it good with the cleaner and hit it with compressed air.


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## kriegersa (May 21, 2010)

Loggerhead Mike said:


> > other information: the motor is a 1974 7.0 hp sears ted Williams, water and air cooled
> 
> 
> 
> ...




wow! thanks for all the information!! i just wish i knew what you were talking about   well i tried running it again today and it did the same thing, at least now i know my trolling motor does quite well lol. and im almost thinking about selling it and getting something bigger. if i do plan to sell it what do you think is a good price point for this motor? any help would be awesome!


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## Loggerhead Mike (May 21, 2010)

lol, yeah it is hard to explain things on the net w/out being able to show you first hand

i'd take the carb to a lawn mower shop. the powerhead should be an eska or tuckumsie (spelling??). i'd guess they would rebuild it for 50 bucks


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## kriegersa (May 21, 2010)

well i have a boat/marine shop near by what do you suggest? the boater place or a lawnmower place?


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## Loggerhead Mike (May 21, 2010)

since ya got once close the marina would be the best bet. If they're prices are too high a lawnmower shop should be able to do it, its the same powerhead on the old mowers.


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## perchin (May 21, 2010)

$50 bucks for a 10 min. job.... or spend the $10.99 on the rebuild kit and do it yourself. It really is not that hard to perform the carb rebuild.


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## kriegersa (May 21, 2010)

so do you guys think just by the sound of what im describing its the carb?


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## ober51 (May 21, 2010)

kriegersa said:


> AHHH i know what your talking about. yeah its leaking from there, and the plug is brand new. but a lot of water is still coming in. what do you suggest? should i get a new plug or what? and i dont have a live well so no need to worry about that lol.



Dont do what I did and forget to put the plug in and turn the plug until tight. I forgot to do that, but once I did, and then flipped up the plug and it fit snugly.


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## kriegersa (May 22, 2010)

yeah i bought a new plug and that solved it. now im wondering if i was using the wrong fuel to gas mixture/ using the wrong oil to mix the gas... i now know you need twc-12 or whatever it is. but i was putting normal 2 cycle oil in the gas mixture. could that have damaged my motor? or at least bog it down?


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## kriegersa (May 23, 2010)

lol, im almost embarrassed to ask that question haha.


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## kriegersa (May 24, 2010)

this is a shameless bump  :mrgreen:


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## perchin (May 25, 2010)

Even if you can keep it running, I would still want to address the carb leaking fuel. The new gaskets that come with the rebuild kit should solve your leak.


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## kriegersa (Jun 1, 2010)

perchin said:


> Even if you can keep it running, I would still want to address the carb leaking fuel. The new gaskets that come with the rebuild kit should solve your leak.




thanks for the advice, i also wanted to ask this: about roughly how much could i get for that motor? as is? because I really want something bigger.

Im sorry for reviving a dead thread but i figured i already had one. lol.


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## perchin (Jun 1, 2010)

kriegersa said:


> perchin said:
> 
> 
> > Even if you can keep it running, I would still want to address the carb leaking fuel. The new gaskets that come with the rebuild kit should solve your leak.
> ...



It really depends on your location.... If your area has a lot of hp restricted lakes then smaller outboards are in high demand, which means even a smaller repairable 7hp. probably would pull in a good $300 or so. But the best thing to do is probably research motors similar to yours on craigslist in your area. Get a general price range for a good running one and a junk one, then figure out what a fair price would be for yours.


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