# matt's alumacraft 14'



## maddog (Mar 8, 2012)

My dad gave me this boat and motor a few years ago. I painted this boat 2 years ago and added a couple of clamp on seats. I have a 9.5 HP Johnson outboard and a 30lb thrust endura trolling motor. The trailer is an old jetski trailer that I added 4' too the tounge and built bunks on a couple of years ago so I didn't have to load this in my truck anymore. I am planning to build a front and rear deck, remove the middle seat and put a floor in it. the transom needs rebuilt. It looks like this: (there is some mud on it because my yard is a bit sloppy right now):








here is after removing the middle seat and cutting the front deck:





I still need to put bracing in under the front deck but it was getting cold out pretty quick tonight so I came in early.


----------



## jimmy fins (Mar 8, 2012)

Looks good. There's a lot of options you can do, have fun at it. I got the same tin can. It's been a good boat so far.

Jim


----------



## maddog (Mar 8, 2012)

I am trying to figure out how I want to do the floor. I was going to rivet aluminum angle to the bottom of the front and rear seats and use that to build the floor off like I saw in Zubes build but the floor would not be level (bottom of rear seat is lower than bottom of front in my boat) or it would be higher than I would like. I am thinking about just securing some 2x2's to the bottom ribs and screwing some plywood down to those. It looks like I could run a 2x2 support 5" to each side of the middle drain spots (10" total between the middle supports) but I am not sure if I will need additional support or if the plywood sitting on the outside floor/ribs will be sturdy enough. The small level is used to show where a sheet of plywood would lay if I do the floor this way. I could add some additional supports but would probably have to cut an angle along the bottom of a 2x2 to keep the top of the board level and the bottom of the board in full contact with the hull. 











What thickness plywood do you guys use for flooring? I am using 5/8 for the front deck. I was going to get another sheet of 5/8 for the floor but if I can use 3/4 and only run a couple of supports down the middle I may do that. What do you guys think would work best? I also thought about just screwing the 1/2 ply to the ribs like jimmy fins did but I would prefer a flat floor. I may want to mount a pin mount seat there and it would be easier with a flat floor that has some bracing underneath to bolt to.


----------



## maddog (Mar 8, 2012)

Jimmy Fins, I really like your boat. I am going to try to do the sides of my boat very similar to what you did. Is your floor flat enough to use a chair on? I was really considering doing my floor like yours. Would I be able to put one of those quad base seat that they sell at cabelas without it being tippy? By the way, I am just a bit west of you. I am in Lenawee county, 20 minutes west of Ann Arbor. I usually fish the Irish Hills. The lakes out there are about 15 miles west of me. I would like to get out your way and do some walleye fishing one of these days too.


----------



## maddog (Mar 8, 2012)

I bought a 2X4 sheet of oak faced 3/4" plywood to redo the transom. It was only a few bucks more than pine and I figured it would look nicer. I am going to make the inside piece larger than the original one that was on there to add some strength. I am planning on tying the transom into the rear seat/deck area also for additional strength. I am most likely just going to put several coats of spar varnish on it and fasten with stainless bolts/screws. The boards that were on there weren't coated and they lasted a long time. This boat sits either in my garage or in my polebarn when not on the water so weather and sun aren't a big issue.






I am thinking about putting a 20 HP 4 stroke on here (yamaha or honda, still need to research that) and I want to make sure the transom is plenty strong to handle the extra weight and power. I would get a 2 stroke but can't find any major manufacturer that makes a 15-20HP 2 stroke other than the evinrude etec 15 H.O. that weighs 177 lbs (it's a detuned 30HP I think).


----------



## Gus Nelson (Mar 9, 2012)

I think you would be ok with your plan. I have a 1982 Alumacraft and my supports are further apart than what you're. planning and I didn't notice any flexing in the wood. My floor wasn't screwed down either, it just rested against the sides and sat on the floor supports.


----------



## jimmy fins (Mar 9, 2012)

No problem on the walleye there's plenty out there to catch, Love to have ya out. My floor probably would not work for a base. The route your going to beef up the floor to support the weight of a person will pay off in the end. My deal was a quick and easy and because I do all my fishing pretty much from the back didn't feel the need for a seat. The sides are easy and as you fasten them to the existing seats it will strengthen the boat up I believe.

Jim


----------



## maddog (Mar 14, 2012)

the transom boards are cut, stained and have several coats of spar varnish on them. I would have mounted them tonight but the old screws weren't quite as long as I wanted. The hardware store was closing in 10 minutes when I called to check their hours so I will have to wait until tomorrow to finish the transom. I plan to put some silicone caulk between the boards and aluminum to help keep water out. Probably seal the screws in with silicone also. 






I cut the top of the transom brace down a bit. it wasn't attached to the transom and was broken anyway. This should give the inner transom board more strength since I will have to make a smaller notch to fit it over this brace. The old inner transom board was 1", the outer was 1/4" or 3/8". The new boards are both 3/4" plywood. It should be stronger than it was. I plan to brace the transom also with the frame for the rear deck.






Front bracing for underneath the front deck is in. I have to cut a 12"x16" opening in the plywood for storage area access. 






It is coming along. slower than I would like but shouldn't be too much longer. This nice weather is making me wish it was done, I should be out fishing!


----------



## kfa4303 (Mar 14, 2012)

HI maddog. Glad you're making progress, but I would recommend 3M 5200 marine sealant to seal your through hull hardware, rather than the silicone you mentioned. You should be able to find it at Lowes/HD and many auto parts stores. Be sure you use stainless steel hardware as well, to avoid any adverse galvanic reactions.


----------



## Jdholmes (Mar 14, 2012)

Looking good...

A coupe questions...do you mean spar urethane? spar varnish is not the same and won't give you quite as long a life from your transom.

Second - by silicone do you mean 5200? If not, I would suggest you pick some up - it will be more effective long run.

Third - I would suggest that you do not put it around the edge of the wood, at least on the inside. If water does make its way somehow behind the wood you will not know it - it will be trapped there and rot from the back.


----------



## JamesM56alum (Mar 15, 2012)

lookin good man welcome to the model F club!


----------



## maddog (Mar 15, 2012)

thanks for the tips on the 5200. I didn't see any at the local lowes but I will check HD and the auto parts store.

I think it is spar varnish, I would have to look at the can to be sure. I got it at lowes, it is rustoleum brand. It is the milky colored stuff that is kind of rubbery. I sealed the edges and both sides of the boards. That area normally doesn't get much if any water on it but I don't want it to hold water in if it does get wet. I can sand the edges though if I need to remove the sealer from the edges. 

I have mostly stainless hardware. The front bracing for under the casting deck has carriage bolts made out of steel. It isn't gavlanized but I think zinc plated? It is bolted through wood and then the aluminum angle I riveted to the seats. the screws to fasten the transom boards are stainless 1.5", I just picked those up today. I didn't get a chance to work on the boat tonight, the weather was pretty bad here. Tomorrow should be a better day to work outside. 

thanks again for all the suggestions and help. This is my first time rebuilding a boat!


----------



## maddog (Mar 16, 2012)

How large of an opening do you guys leave in the rear deck to accomodate the motor mount bracket? I am going to order a 20 HP honda to put on here but don't know if the bracket is the same width as my old johnson 9.5 HP. I can probably call the dealer tomorrow and ask them to measure something similar to let me know. Hoping to get this thing wrapped up this weekend. I hear the fishing is heating up around here!


----------



## maddog (Mar 16, 2012)

should I sand the sealer off the edges of the transom board to let it breathe?


----------



## bigwave (Mar 16, 2012)

I would not sand the edge off the transom, if you do It will allow water to intrude between the wood and cause rotting....the edge is very important to keep sealed....if you look at my mod you will see what will happen if the edge is not sealed.


----------



## Zubes (Mar 16, 2012)

maddog said:


> Front bracing for underneath the front deck is in. I have to cut a 12"x16" opening in the plywood for storage area access.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Looking good! I thought I was actually looking at a picture of my build when I saw yours. Let me know if you need any pointers, it looks like we are working with the same/very similar boat.


----------



## Jdholmes (Mar 16, 2012)

bigwave said:


> I would not sand the edge off the transom, if you do It will allow water to intrude between the wood and cause rotting....the edge is very important to keep sealed....if you look at my mod you will see what will happen if the edge is not sealed.



The same thing will happen if water gets behind it - you won't know it's there and it will be trapped which will accelerate the rotting. 

I totally disagree for that reason.


----------



## maddog (Mar 25, 2012)

Zubes, yes I copied your design for the front deck bracing. 

I didn't sand the sealer off the edges of the transom board. I did see that the stuff I bought was spar varnish. I have some spar urethane now I am going to put down on the plywood before I glue the vinyl down. If the transom gets messed up/waterlogged I will do it again, next time using some type of resin like west system. I have the front deck and rear area pretty much done. I have to cut some access doors for the rear deck area. I worked on the floor today. It is mostly done. I don't have pics now but should be able to get some tomorrow. The nice weather up here has set me back a bit. after the transom was done I went fishing 3 times so far. Hoping to get this mostly wrapped up this weekend. I ordered a 20 HP Honda short shaft manual start today for it. I think this boat will handle that according to the power calculations I found on this webpage. The 9.5 I have won't get the boat up on plane. 

Here is a quick update:

I need to cut another piece of plywood to close in the front bow. I am going to build a small cubby there to stow the front anchor. I think my battery will go in the front storage area but not certain. I am probably not going to put a front trolling motor on for now. I just have to clean the wood, mount my front seat post/base, cut the vinyl and glue it down. 






I have the 1/2 ply cut for the back platform, just need to figure out how I want to do the access hatches. The 6 gallon fuel tank won't fit but it looks like a 3 gallon will. The honda will come with a 3 gallon. If it doesn't fit I know cabelas sells 3 gallon tanks that will fit. The front deck and the floor are 5/8 ply, I think the 1/2 willl be strong enough for the rear deck. It seems to be when I just throw it on the braces and stand on it. 





Hopefully I will get the vinyl glued down this weekend. I will just then need to figure out how I want to brace the sides and mount rod holders.


----------



## maddog (Mar 27, 2012)

from this weekend:

closed in the bow:





the rear deck is cut but I have to figure out where to put the hatches. I am thinking maybe just one 16 X 18 hatch in the middle. I have to wait until I get the new motor to see what will work with the new gas tank and motor position etc. I have to mount part of the depth/sonar unit someplace and maybe my battery charger. Under the rear makes the most sense but have to try to make everything fit. Any suggestions?





Floor. This is strange, the floor is cut straight/square, but the front/rear seats are off by 1" from port to starboard. I will probably trim the floor to be crooked to match my boat. This boat must have been assembled on a Monday after a holiday weekend...





rear deck and floor are just setting on the bracing. you can see how the floor goes under the front seat on the right and not the left. The floor may be a little canted in this pic, but the seats really are off if you put a tape (measure) on it.


----------



## fishingmich (Mar 27, 2012)

Matt, looking good. Where at in Lenawee County are you?


----------



## maddog (Mar 28, 2012)

Clinton. I mostly fish the Irish Hills and Brooklyn area. I would like to get to Detroit or St. Clair rivers to do some walleye fishing one of these days though.


----------



## maddog (Mar 29, 2012)

I wanted to replace some of the foam that I took out with the center seat. I read some posts on here and it seems there are a few different schools of thought on this. Not trying to start a debate, just showing how I built my boat. I figured it wouldn't take too long and won't hurt to put some in. So far I put about a half sheet of 1.5" closed cell polystyrene in under the floor and front deck. I am planning to put the other half sheet in on the sides (whenever I build them) and maybe add some to the rear deck if I have room. A half sheet is close to or maybe a bit more than what was in the now missing center seat. I still want to add more if it will fit. I am not putting any where it will sit in water and am hoping I don't spill gas with the new motor. The old one seemed to always spit some gas out when hooking/unhooking the hose. I may just put a shutoff valve in the line so I don't have to remove the hose on the new motor to run it out of fuel. 

Under the floor. The 2x2's will sit on top of the ribs so the foam won't be sitting in water (unless I get a bad hole in the boat):






Under the front casting deck. I may try to put some more in the very front of the bow, there won't be much I could store up there anyway:





Any suggestions or ideas on storing an anchor in the front? I was thinking of cutting a hole or oval in the front cubby to feed the rope through, and then just flip the mushroom anchor upside down and put it in the hole. The cubby is a little small to put a door in if I leave room for a bow mount trolling motor. Not sure if I will put a front trolling motor on or not. I have an older motorguide that I was thinking about putting on... 

something like this for the anchor, hope the pic makes sense:






I looked at the electric anchors but the units would take up alot of room. They aren't cheap either! I like the anchormate units also, but they are pricey as well and require mounting space too, just not as much. I figure the current method works ok (get up, toss the anchor, tie it off) I just want a place to put the anchor where it is out of the way. The main reason I started reworking this boat is that I can't stand having my fishing gear all over the place. I want it somewhat organized and tidy. Right now when I go it is a mess of wires, rods, buckets, tackleboxes, anchor ropes...


----------



## maddog (Apr 1, 2012)

bought some clearanced stuff for my boat at the local walmart today:

42" collapseable paddle = $4
bow light = $4
15lb. river anchor = $5
20lb. mushroom anchor = $7
6" nylon rope cleats = $1.50
12v accessory plug and outlets = $1
100ft. 3/8 anchor rope = $7
50ft. 3/8 anchor rope = $4
swing up trailer jack w/wheel = $11
boat plug = $1






a few weeks back I picked up a clearanced $9 extendable stern light w/socket and 800GPH bilge pump for $11. Picked up some vinyl boat flooring a while back at a cabelas sale. It was $19 for 21 feet long x 6 ft. wide. Normally $25 per yard but someone ordered it and returned it and it must have sat in the bargain cave for awhile. Cabelas doesn't have the big tent sales anymore. It is a bummer because they had so much stuff in those tents for next to nothing. You just had to dig through big bins and tables full of crap to find the good stuff. It is the tan color flooring. I would have preferred the grey but the price was right.


----------



## maddog (Apr 4, 2012)

got the sidesupports installed. used the old seat mount for the midpoint tie-in and used aluminum angle riveted to the front and rear seats to tie in the ends of the board. It seems pretty stiff, I can lift the boat up off the trailer by these side supports. This is stronger than that stock setup for front/rear rigidity. the floor will add some extra support also. These mods are getting heavy, I am going to guess it's over 100lbs by now.





for the upright part of the side panels I am going to use 1/4 ply and cover with the same vinyl I am going to use on the floor. I will probably just sand/stain/seal the side supports to match the transom wood. Still need to figure out the rear deck area hatch and where to mount some of the electronics. I need to go down to cabelas and pick up a switch/fuse panel to start the wiring.


----------



## Zubes (Apr 7, 2012)

The side supports looks great! I was planning on doing something similar, but I was going to make mine a bit wider so I could place rods on them with rod-saver straps. I was also going to make a few small cubby holes for stuffing a jacket or rain pants in, but I don't want to give up too much floor space.

Keep us updated and keep the pics coming!


----------



## Dockside85 (Apr 7, 2012)

Looks great! I like the job you did in the framework of the decks and the sheet insulation below them. Looks sharp!


----------



## wcbond4 (Apr 8, 2012)

Wow!  you racked up on the clearance aisle!! Good find!


----------



## jimmy fins (Apr 8, 2012)

Lookin sweet Matt. =D> One suggestion though that I found out on my Alumacraft The water that may leak in or get in through wave splash, or rain does NOT drain for crap through those little ribs in the center. They will fill up with dabris and you have water sitting around growing old and stagnant. Your floor looks awesome just consider leaving it loose that you can wedge into between the sides so you can pull it when your done that way air can easily do its thing. I would have to wet vac the bow on mine every time I came in because it didn't move through. Mine boat had a small seal leak somewhere though. Your 20 horse Honda should make the tin can fly. My 15 Merc. would push mine 24 mph, scary fast [-o< 

Jim


----------



## maddog (Apr 9, 2012)

Thanks for the compliments. I ended up going with a Yamaha 20HP electric start. The Honda dealer said the motors were on backorder and he had no idea when they could get one. So I ran down to Cabelas and picked up a motor. It weighs 10lbs. more or so but should be ok. 

The top plate support is only 3.5" wide. I want some rod storage also but have a different idea for that. Going to try to build some kind of containment device that will hold them to the top of the rear platform or something built into the seats just for transport. When fishing I will probably keep a couple rods in rod holders so they will be out of the way. Still kicking around a few different options there. 

JimmyFins, The floor is removable right now but I was going to "lock" it in when I build the vertical portion of the side supports. I will reevaluate that idea and try to figure out a way to make it easily removable. The drains in this boat do get plugged from time to time also so I do know what you mean but hadn't considered that in my planning. This boat doesn't yet have leaks, but sometimes water gets splashed in and the anchor brings some in with it. With the bigger motor leaks may start to develop with the additional stress put on the hull due to planing and accelleration. My dog occasionally spills his water dish too so I know water will be getting in. I didn't even think about the floor not letting the airflow do it's work. Thank you for that bit of advice/experience! By the way, I am looking forward to your new build, I loved the alumacraft build you did and how it was setup.


----------



## Kwatchi (Apr 9, 2012)

Matt,

Excellent work....I have a 16ft alumicraft 1982 deep fisherman and considering doing almost the same build....My biggest hold up right now is the middle bench seat...trying to figure out if it is safe to remove? Any ideas?

Jim


----------



## maddog (Apr 9, 2012)

Time will tell on the middle seat removal. I think my boat is stronger front to rear with the side braces now than it was with the center seat. There are quite a few guys on here that have removed the middle seat (or all seats!) and rebuilt their boats without issues. I took the boat out a few times and didn't notice any additional flex, but there was no chop/waves to speak of on the days I went out. I think the biggest issue with be torsional flex or twist, since the sides are not tied directly together in the middle anymore. I would like to tie the sides into the floor to make this thing very solid but I am still trying to figure out a way to deal with the water drainage issues that JimmyFins brought up. I think if you consider the usage your boat will get (calm lakes, rivers, or lakes that get quite choppy - also the weight and power of motor) and build for that environment you will be ok. I don't usually go out if it is really windy or choppy but I want to make sure the boat is solid enough that I can get off the lake if the wind kicks up unexpectedly. I was a bit leery at first of pulling that middle seat but after seeing all the builds on here and hearing people's feedback on how their boats handled after removing the seat I decided do it. I can put it back in if needed since I didn't remove the support brackets or cut the seat. I just removed the rivets.


----------



## maddog (Apr 10, 2012)

A couple pics of the 20hp Yamaha. These new motors take some funky twist-lock, no drip, impermeable hose/fittings that are a bit hard to find around here. The 3 gallon gas tank was about 2.5 times as much as a standard 3 gallon plastic tank. I couldn't find just a fitting that I could use in a standard tank. I thought about buying a regular 3 gallon tank and then cutting the end off the EPA certified fuel line this motor came with and putting a regular fitting on. I like the idea of a no drip fitting though. I really hated that about my old outboard, gas in the boat and on my hand when plugging or unplugging that old fuel line. Not much but enough to be annoying. Anyone else run into these new EPA regulated fuel system components on outboard motors? Hondas come with a tank so there would be no issues there I guess. Yamaha you have to pay extra for a tank. It seems like in the long run the price is pretty darn close to the same for a Honda or a Yamaha, the only difference is that you can get a Yamaha with electric start and no power tilt, and Honda has 5 vs. Yamaha's 3 year warranty. 











It is too cold here today to put on spar urethane to seal the decks. Not sure if I will have much time to work on this over the next couple of weeks. The end of the semester is coming up quickly and I will be unable to spend time on this next week due to work obligations.


----------



## Hanr3 (Apr 10, 2012)

Matt,
Nice work so far. I have the same boat and did something similar, except I removed all the bench seats, no decks, instead opting for a livewell. Link to my build in my signature.


----------



## 1munford (Apr 10, 2012)

I hear ya' we had a snow, hail, and rain mix in central MI


----------



## jimmy fins (Apr 10, 2012)

I like that 20 Yamaha it looks sweet.


----------



## maddog (Apr 11, 2012)

Hanr3, I read every page of your build before I started mine and it is the one that gave me confidence to pull the center seat. I really like your boat and how you set it up. I am probably going to do something similar on the side supports. Looks like you cut an angle on some aluminum tube and then riveted it in. I may do that for side braces and not put plywood between the floor and the side supports I put in. That way I can pull the floor like JimmyFins suggested.

1munford, down here we had some snow and sleet in the morning and then again in the afternoon. Was in the 70's or maybe up to 80 a few weeks ago. Was hoping that would stay but the cold is good to kill off those early bugs I guess.

I think I am going to like the Yamaha also. Haven't had a chance to take it out yet. May not get to for a few weeks either. going to be pretty busy until after the 30th.


----------



## Hanr3 (Apr 11, 2012)

I used 1 1/4" angle aluminum for the side support and mounted my fish rod holders to the angle aluminum too.
My floor is also removeable, pull the rear foam box, and pull the front storage deck and out comes the floor. I also saved all the original bench seat brackets incase I wanted to return it to stock.


----------



## maddog (Apr 29, 2012)

got a few things done this weekend. put some green carpet on the floor, and put vinyl over the front and rear casting decks. I have seen boats with this cabelas vinyl as flooring but it seemed light duty to me so I went with some tough indoor outdoor carpet I bought a couple of years ago. I decided to leave the middle hatch open rather than put a door on it in the back. I guess having a battery and a gas can in an enclosed area is a no no. I saved the cutout incase I want to build a door to cover it. I picked up a lawn mower battery for starting the outboard, and I may put the sonar on this battery too. The book for the outboard motor says it requires a 245 CCA battery minimum, the battery I picked up is 375 CCA. Going to put that under the rear deck opposite the seat mount. I can fit that and my anchor/rope down on that side and have pretty easy access without a hatch. Decided to cut a hatch behind the rear seat for storing a tackle box. I probably should have put the hatch on the other side since it would be easier to get to. I thought I should move the battery opposite where I sit to counter balance things but it is probably only 15-20lbs so won't make much difference. Oh well, the deck hatch is cut now and it is pretty easy to get the tackle box in/out. Would have just been easier on the other side. Maybe in the winter I will cut another access hatch on the other side if I find the current setup hard to use.

I decided not to do much wiring for now. I am not going to put the front marker/navigation light on, it isn't required on the small inland lakes around here as far as I know. I will wire the anchor light socket hot all the time, it will only run when I plug the light pole in. There is a cover for the plug so nothing can fall in there to short it out. I don't know if I will install the 2 bank battery charging unit or not. Seems unecessary on a small boat like this. Probably no bilge pump for now either. I do need to wire the sonar and structure scan box in, but that shouldn't be too bad. I still have to figure out storage for the front anchor and a rod rack of some kind to keep my rods from tumbling around while trailering. I also need to mount the tranducers for the sonar and the down/side scan unit. My plan is to use a cooler with a boat cushion for a center seat when I need room for a third person. I plan to have the cooler in there anyway to put fish in. It is coming along. Slower than I would like.


----------



## fishingmich (Apr 29, 2012)

Hey Matt, where did you get that vinyl for your decks? Is that the Cabelas vinyl? My buddy used that for his jon boat and its actually holding up pretty well. I thought about using it for my build, but I'm not sure I want to spend that much extra money. It is pretty sweet though and gives it a factory look.


----------



## Dman23 (Apr 30, 2012)

Great looking build! Same boat i have. In my opinon the best smaller boat ever made. 

Have you been out in it yet? Curious on the stability with the high decks. Just finished my mod and did just one main floor. Very stable but not sure i could handle it standing or sitting that high in it, id be in the water i no time. 

One idea for your back middle hatch would be a grill type cover of some sort. A rough open pattern but enough cross bars to still set tackle boxes etc on. Maybe even a screeen of some sort. 

Nice build!


----------



## Dman23 (Apr 30, 2012)

Also, i as well used angle aluminum (1 1/2 inch) same as hanr3. It worked wonders for support. Highly suggested for your build, you wont be dissapointed doing them like that!


----------



## Gators5220 (Apr 30, 2012)

Nice boat, did you put a 4 stroke yahama or 2 stroke? How does she perform? Just curious if you think 4 strokes are as powerful as 2 strokes or your opinion? I have a 2 on mine now and kinda want to put a 40hp (I have a 30hp now) for the 3 cylinders but I've heard if I go 4 stroke they lack hole shot?


----------



## maddog (Apr 30, 2012)

Yes it is the vinyl from Cabelas. I bought a 21' roll of it at a tent sale a couple years ago for around $19. It was a return but there was nothing wrong with it. Been sitting in the attic of the garage for a while now. 

It feels pretty stable standing on the casting decks, but I haven't had it out yet with the seats installed. I have stood on the front and rear decks though and it feels stable to me. I have done alot of fishing and even bowfishing in a canoe over the years though so stable is relative. If the seats feel unstable in the up position they will still be ok in the low position I guess. I bought the bases, pedastals and seat mounts as kits, since it was about the same price as just buying the seat mount and bases separate. 

I love the idea of an open grate over that hole, allows the airflow but still usable deck space. I will pick up a piece of aluminum grate next time I am at the alro metals outlet in town. Thanks for the idea! I may do the side bracing, not sure yet how I am going to proceed on that part. I have some 1.5" square alum. tubing I can use.

The outboard is a 4 stroke. I have never been in a boat this size with a 2 stroke 20hp so I can't give a comparison. Everything I read or hear is that the 2 strokes are quicker off the line for the comparable HP rating (15hp-2 vs. 15hp-4). Two strokes are also lighter, my 4 stroke motor is around 120 lbs. A 2 stroke is most likely going to have more holeshot, just from my experience with 2 and 4 stroke off road bikes. The 4 stroke is very quiet and it has plenty of holeshot for me (up on plane very quick, but haven't timed it) though and it pushes this boat very well (25mph-gps- in under 10 seconds, estimate). I have heard 4 strokes use quite a bit less gas also. I wanted a quiet motor and didn't want to dink with mixing gas any more. Holeshot wasn't a consideration in my decision, noise and fuel consumption were high on the list. As far as powerful goes, the overall output is the same horsepower wise(20HP is 20HP no matter what), it is just the powerband/torque curve and how gearing and prop size&pitch selection are affected by the powerband or output curve, whatever you may call it. I don't know much about prop selection and how that plays in, but I know on motorcycles gearing and torque curve make a big difference and are not the same for 2 stroke vs. 4 stroke. There are alot of guys on here that can tell you all about the differences between the two as far as outboards go. If you want holeshot though, from what I have read I think 2 stroke is the way to go. If you want torque, get one of the 4 strokes with the "big prop" type option! Merc and Yamaha both have them, I am not sure of other brands...


----------



## Gators5220 (May 3, 2012)

I got ya just curious, I've used both 4 and 2 strokes but never with smaller boats, only on larger offshore rigs where holeshot isn't as big of a concern. I'm more curious because for my application especially in the keys I run in a foot of water sometimes and you only have limited space to plane out. Nice build btw super clean!


----------



## maddog (May 3, 2012)

finally finished the front cubby area. Ended up cutting a slot for my girlfriend's tacklebox to sit in. The 15lb. river anchor also fits in there pretty good, behind her tacklebox. not sure if rope, anchor, and tackle box will all fit. Oh well, it is done and I am getting closer to being finished for now. still have to mount the trolling motor battery under the front deck, run wires to the rear for the troller, mount the lawn tractor battery in the back, run wires for the anchor light and an accessory jack, and mount and wire my sonar unit. I need to figure out some rod storage or rack also.


----------



## ChitownBasser (May 4, 2012)

Nice work. Gotta love that quick access to your things.


----------



## J-MO (May 4, 2012)

The Boat looks great ..Love the Vinyl ...Mine is very similar . Have you got it on the water yet ? and if so how stable was the seating at that hieght? ..Again GREAT JOB..


----------



## maddog (May 5, 2012)

Went fishing today. Got the sonar mounted but don't have pics right now. My girlfriend's grandpa and I went out. He sat up front. He really liked the seat setup. I put the post in the front and back seat after we got to where we were going to fish. It worked great. He said it felt really stable and it was very comfortable. He was fishing with a fly rod and a spinning rod. The rear platform worked well and felt stable as well. Overall, it turned out to be a really nice setup for 2 guys to fish from. All I need to do is mount the anchor light and figure out some rod storage.


----------

