# Broken transom knee brace



## Sho (Mar 20, 2018)

Hey all

I'm looking for some advice on how and weather I should repair the transom brace on my boat. I bought it last year but I only noticed the damage this spring. I was thinking about cutting out the broken part that bolts to the transom and adding a piece of aluminum angle riveted to the brace. 

The boat is a 2012 Lund wc14 with a 20 HP Yamaha 4 stroke. The transom is solid other than the brace. 

Let me know if you think it will work or have a better idea. 

Thanks


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## nccatfisher (Mar 20, 2018)

Yes, it needs to be repaired or replaced, if not you will see stress cracks start showing up in the corners. Two pieces of angle aluminum through bolted with a spacer in your brace with lock nuts should work well then use the existing hole through the transom. That is if you don't want to get someone to weld a repair.


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## Sho (Mar 20, 2018)

nccatfisher said:


> Yes, it needs to be repaired or replaced, if not you will see stress cracks start showing up in the corners. Two pieces of angle aluminum through bolted with a spacer in your brace with lock nuts should work well then use the existing hole through the transom.




Thanks for the response. 

Do you think my plan to rivet in a piece of angle will work?


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## nccatfisher (Mar 20, 2018)

If I went with rivets I would use SS rivets because that bracket has quite a bit of stress on it. I would be afraid it would cut aluminum ones.


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## Weldorthemagnificent (Mar 21, 2018)

Get a transom saver for trailering. 


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## Sho (Mar 21, 2018)

Weldorthemagnificent said:


> Get a transom saver for trailering.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I did pick one up but I'm unsure how to use it correctly since the motor is a manual tilt. I just bought the boat at the end of last year and have only taken it out once.


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## Stumpalump (Mar 21, 2018)

If that crack is as minor as it looks then I'd just throw washers under those nuts to suport the metal. Transom savers with manual tilt are OK until motor bounces off the saver and hits the street. Double up on bungie cords or rope on each end if you use it one. Make sure the motor, transom saver and trailer stay together as one during a hard bounce.


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## Shaugh (Mar 21, 2018)

Seeing that reminds me of my old Mirrocraft transom.....This transom felt pretty solid when I tried flexing it by hand... Are you sure the wood under that aluminum skin isn't rotted out ? Carpenter ants can make short work of wood....



You would not get cracks and deformation like that unless the whole transom is flexing way beyond "normal"... A boat is engineered to withstand a motor bouncing around with an ample safety margin...... IMO you need to take that apart and look at the wood.... What's happened there looks more like the wood is gone underneath the motor clamp area... when the motor clamps get tightened they're pulling the skin away from the bracket.

apparently it's not an uncommon complaint about Lunds

https://www.walleyecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=635426


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## nccatfisher (Mar 21, 2018)

Stumpalump said:


> If that crack is as minor as it looks then I'd just throw washers under those nuts to suport the metal. Transom savers with manual tilt are OK until motor bounces off the saver and hits the street. Double up on bungie cords or rope on each end if you use it one. Make sure the motor, transom saver and trailer stay together as one during a hard bounce.


I use the ratchet straps on the ones that don't have power trim, or they will do exactly what you said.


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## New River Rat (Mar 21, 2018)

Stumpalump said:


> Transom savers with manual tilt are OK until motor bounces off the saver and hits the street.



Just being curious, how could this happen? I've used that exact set up for 20 years and just can't see what you mean.


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## nccatfisher (Mar 21, 2018)

New River Rat said:


> Stumpalump said:
> 
> 
> > Transom savers with manual tilt are OK until motor bounces off the saver and hits the street.
> ...


The transom saver is bungee corded around the LU you hit a pot hole and the motor jumps up and the transom saver comes with the motor when it flies up and it comes off the frame of the trailer and motor slams down all the way to the bottom of the tilt setting as the transom saver is no longer attached at the bottom.


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## muskiemike12 (Mar 21, 2018)

You can get a transom saver that is pinned to the trailer frame and not just resting in the roller. This will eliminate the jumping off issue. 


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## nccatfisher (Mar 21, 2018)

muskiemike12 said:


> You can get a transom saver that is pinned to the trailer frame and not just resting in the roller. This will eliminate the jumping off issue.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 Yep, but they are a PITA if your frame is a pretty good ways under the boat. Just about all of the ones that fit on the roller come with a cable and pin to attach them, just few people use them. I make my transom savers but I don't have anything without PT/T so it is a non issue to me now.


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## Sho (Mar 21, 2018)

Thanks to all that have chimed in. 

This is the transom saver I bought. It screws in to the trailer frame so I would think I'd only have to make sure the other end was secure.


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## Sho (Mar 21, 2018)

Shaugh said:


> Seeing that reminds me of my old Mirrocraft transom.....This transom felt pretty solid when I tried flexing it by hand... Are you sure the wood under that aluminum skin isn't rotted out ? Carpenter ants can make short work of wood....
> 
> 
> You would not get cracks and deformation like that unless the whole transom is flexing way beyond "normal"... A boat is engineered to withstand a motor bouncing around with an ample safety margin...... IMO you need to take that apart and look at the wood.... What's happened there looks more like the wood is gone underneath the motor clamp area... when the motor clamps get tightened they're pulling the skin away from the bracket.
> ...



Wow. I never even considered the transom could be bad. Maybe I didn't get a very good deal after all. 

Is there any way to test if the wood is rotten or not?


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## nccatfisher (Mar 21, 2018)

Yes, if water gets in and especially is trapped in it will rot. Has to be replaced. If you can get to the exposed edges anywhere take a thin piece of metal and poke and prod and check for soft spots.


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## Sho (Mar 21, 2018)

nccatfisher said:


> Yes, if water gets in and especially is trapped in it will rot. Has to be replaced. If you can get to the exposed edges anywhere take a thin piece of metal and poke and prod and check for soft spots.



There is a cap on the top of the transom. If I take it off to check the wood what is the best way to reseal it? 3m 5200? Below is a better look at the full transom.


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## Shaugh (Mar 21, 2018)

It's hard to tell exactly how that's put together.. I've never taken apart a boat that new.... but it does appear like you can just unscrew that top cap ? It's probably just a matter of screws, bolts and drilling out a few rivets if you decide to replace it.

I don't think you need to get too depressed just yet.... we're all just guessing at this point... once you get a better idea what's going on there are several options besides tearing that thing apart.... see if you can find something definite and let us know...


this might give you some ideas what to look for:

https://chitown-angler.com/1fish/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=73802


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## LDUBS (Mar 21, 2018)

Sho said:


> Thanks to all that have chimed in.
> 
> This is the transom saver I bought. It screws in to the trailer frame so I would think I'd only have to make sure the other end was secure.




Same concept as the one I got from Cabelas. This design reduces the concern that it will come loose whilst underway. 

BTW, are we not looking at the transom wood inside, or is that an aluminum we are looking at (where the knee brace flange is bent).


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## Shaugh (Mar 22, 2018)

Sho,
I've looked at several photos of those boats and it does appear to be a very simple replacement if it comes to that. First step is to get that top cap off and see if the wood is the cause. All you need to do is remove those top wood screws...




If the wood is rotten it appears all you'll need to do is remove the corner caps by drilling out the rivets and the bolts holding the seats and handles from inside... once you release everything holding the wood it should just pull straight up and out...


Here's a video with another way to test the transom:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KerFxYSkfWE


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## New River Rat (Mar 22, 2018)

nccatfisher said:


> New River Rat said:
> 
> 
> > Stumpalump said:
> ...





muskiemike12 said:


> You can get a transom saver that is pinned to the trailer frame and not just resting in the roller. This will eliminate the jumping off issue.



I got what muskieMike said. I never thought it was good to do anything but attach the saver to the frame. If my frame was that much off, I'd be looking to find a better fit.


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## Sho (Mar 22, 2018)

Shaugh said:


> Sho,
> I've looked at several photos of those boats and it does appear to be a very simple replacement if it comes to that. First step is to get that top cap off and see if the wood is the cause. All you need to do is remove those top wood screws...
> 
> 
> ...



Thanks for looking into the repair for me shaugh. I spent the better part of last night searching for Lund transom issues and repair. 

My boat is still in storage but I'm going to take a look at it this weekend. The motor is not on the boat so I think I'll remove a couple screws on the transom cap and poke around with a screw driver. 

I wish me luck


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## Sho (Mar 22, 2018)

LDUBS said:


> Sho said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks to all that have chimed in.
> ...



Thanks ldubs. 

I was initially concerned about the broken transom brace but others have mentioned my transom might be the cause.


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## Sho (Mar 25, 2018)

Well I checked out my boat today in storage and I think I dodged a bullet. I read on other forums that if the screws on the top trans cap spin then the transom is rotten. I took a couple screws out and the were very stiff and threaded in just fine. 

I may remove the top transom cap completely to check out the wood just to confirm. 

Phew....

Back to the transom bracket. Below is a close up shot. The top two holes are broken and the angle is straightened a bit. I also noticed a small crack at the top of the brace. 

Let me know what you think is the best was to repair. 

Thanks all


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## Prowelder (Mar 25, 2018)

Sho said:


> Well I checked out my boat today in storage and I think I dodged a bullet. I read on other forums that if the screws on the top trans cap spin then the transom is rotten. I took a couple screws out and the were very stiff and threaded in just fine.
> 
> I may remove the top transom cap completely to check out the wood just to confirm.
> 
> ...


Get it welded

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## nccatfisher (Mar 25, 2018)

Sho said:


> Well I checked out my boat today in storage and I think I dodged a bullet. I read on other forums that if the screws on the top trans cap spin then the transom is rotten. I took a couple screws out and the were very stiff and threaded in just fine.
> 
> I may remove the top transom cap completely to check out the wood just to confirm.
> 
> ...


Yep, it really needs to be welded. Probably the flats removed and new pieces fabricated for them and welded to the knee brace itself. To you straighten them and repair them around where they are broken out they will just break again. The knee brace needs welding. It would be a fairly simple job. Almost as long to clean it well as to do it.


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## Sho (Mar 27, 2018)

I appreciate all the advice guys. I guess I need to find a welder...


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## nccatfisher (Mar 27, 2018)

Sho said:


> I appreciate all the advice guys. I guess I need to find a welder...


Where are you at?


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## Sho (Mar 27, 2018)

nccatfisher said:


> Sho said:
> 
> 
> > I appreciate all the advice guys. I guess I need to find a welder...
> ...



Canada. And hour west of Toronto


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## Weldorthemagnificent (Mar 27, 2018)

Guelph?


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## nccatfisher (Mar 27, 2018)

Sho said:


> nccatfisher said:
> 
> 
> > Sho said:
> ...


Hmmmn, that would equate to about a 20 hour drive. Little too far for me to fix it for you.


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## Sho (Mar 27, 2018)

Weldorthemagnificent said:


> Guelph?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Yes. Fellow Canuck?


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## Weldorthemagnificent (Mar 27, 2018)

Owen Sound area. 


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## Sho (Mar 27, 2018)

Weldorthemagnificent said:


> Owen Sound area.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Nice. How the fishing up there? My in laws moved up to Wasaga last year. Planning on taking a run at georgian bay this summer


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## Weldorthemagnificent (Mar 27, 2018)

Georgian is fun. I have a smaller boat 16’ so I don’t do a lot of the bay but salmon fishing is fun. Couple smaller lakes but they see a lot of pressure and summer city people. Couple decent bass spots around here. I take yearly trips to the French river to get my fix. 


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## Weldorthemagnificent (Mar 27, 2018)

As far as your problem, if you don’t want to weld it. Take the bolts out and get a piece of 1/8 aluminum and bend it to fit over the brace using a vice and hammer. Drill through and rebolt. 
If you can’t get your transom saver to work for you, here’s what I do: When trailering I tilt the motor forward and put a 1” ratchet strap around the motor and pull it forward. I hook the ends to the trailer farther forward. I crank it pretty tight taking the weight of the motor and the bounce out of the equation. Old 1970’s 16’ Naden with a Johnson 35. I regularly tow it 5 hours or more on trips down the damndest roads. Transom is good. 


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## Sho (Mar 27, 2018)

Weldorthemagnificent said:


> Georgian is fun. I have a smaller boat 16’ so I don’t do a lot of the bay but salmon fishing is fun. Couple smaller lakes but they see a lot of pressure and summer city people. Couple decent bass spots around here. I take yearly trips to the French river to get my fix.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




My boat is a 14ft so i plan I choosing my days carefully and staying close to shore. I mostly fish smaller conservation areas around here


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## Sho (Mar 28, 2018)

Weldorthemagnificent said:


> As far as your problem, if you don’t want to weld it. Take the bolts out and get a piece of 1/8 aluminum and bend it to fit over the brace using a vice and hammer. Drill through and rebolt.
> If you can’t get your transom saver to work for you, here’s what I do: When trailering I tilt the motor forward and put a 1” ratchet strap around the motor and pull it forward. I hook the ends to the trailer farther forward. I crank it pretty tight taking the weight of the motor and the bounce out of the equation. Old 1970’s 16’ Naden with a Johnson 35. I regularly tow it 5 hours or more on trips down the damndest roads. Transom is good.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Thanks for the tip. I'm going to see how much it will cost to have it welded. If it's too much that could be a good solution


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## MRichardson (Apr 9, 2018)

I had this happen to my boat.
Got a welder to recreate, with thicker aluminum sheet.
That, along with some caps he threw on the corners and my transom is now bomb-proof. Which is a good thing considering I throw a hella-vibrating mud motor on there for part of the year.


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