# 1957 Lone Star V hull



## BeerMe (Sep 16, 2015)

Hi everyone! I have been poking around this forum for a while now and I have decided to make my project a thread. I have a boat that was given to me by my wife's family and have been working to get it "ship shape". I want to use this boat for fishing and getting me to duck hunting holes mainly (dont plan on hunting out of it). Maybe running some trot lines or jugs in the future. I have started this because I have some specific questions concerning what to do with my boat. I will upload pics and hopefully we can work through this together.

#1. I don't know exactly what boat this is and I would like to know to see what kind of weight rating it has. Like I mentioned before.. it is a ~1957 Lonestar. I measured 14' 3" from front to back and I believe the beam is 58". There are several models that it could be going off of dimensions from fiberglassics.

#2. Should I replace the drain plug? If so, what should I use?

#3. What should I use to fill the gap in the seam between the side and the bottom? It leaks on both sides and along the bottom in the back.

#4. I want to mount a TM to the front but it has a radius. Should I cut that off and fab something new or will it be ok?

#5. I want to rest the front deck I plan to make on the front seat but it sits at an angle. How should I shim this? 

That's all for now guys. Feel free to leave your opinions as they will be much appreciated. I can take pics and upload them from any angle you need to get a better idea of what I'm dealing with so just ask. 

Thanks!

EDIT: Please see pics below.. they didn't post the first time.


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## BeerMe (Sep 16, 2015)

Here are some pics in no specific order


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## TexasLoneStar56 (Sep 16, 2015)

=D> =D> =D> Gotta love those old Lone Stars!


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## Johnny (Sep 16, 2015)

welcome !!

is that a sink drain modified to fit your bilge plug hole ?
I guess as long as it is not rusted and works, might as well keep it
until you work your way down the "to do" list.
why you think the transom board was sandblasted ?


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## BeerMe (Sep 16, 2015)

Johnny said:


> welcome !!
> 
> is that a sink drain modified to fit your bilge plug hole ?
> I guess as long as it is not rusted and works, might as well keep it
> ...




It's a 1" pipe cap for the plug. I want to replace it but I don't know how to go about it. This boat has sat for as long as my wife has been alive and she says it hasn't been in the water in that time. It was in pretty good shape for sitting for over 20 years outside.

I took it out and tested my 9.9 johnson after I got it running and there were some minor leaks. Did a water test to locate them and now I'm about to the point to where I need to fix them. 

I don't think anything was done to the transom other than me pulling it out and doing a light sanding to get the dirt and stuff off of it. I am going to epoxy it and paint it and re install it.


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## BeerMe (Sep 25, 2015)

Well since I didn't get much help as far as my questions being answered I've made some progress on my own. I hope it's not trial and error. I guess we'll see. I'll post some pictures tomorrow.


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## Johnny (Sep 25, 2015)

Please don't get frustrated if you don't receive 100% feedback right away.
Did you ever put some water in the boat to check for leaks ?
The most common fixit for leaks and open seams is the old 3M5200.
Regular is a slow set and more fluid which will seep down into open areas such as seams.
Fast Cure is quicker to set so will not flow as well but can be forced into
crack and crevices with a finger, spatula or stick.
If the drain pipe works, why not just leave it.
Lessons learned through the Trial and Error process builds confidence.

you are off to a good start


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## g0nef1sshn (Sep 26, 2015)

I love the looks of them old ones too!

#3. What should I use to fill the gap in the seam between the side and the bottom? It leaks on both sides and along the bottom in the back.

You can try to rebuck those rivets as much as you can, then what I used was called gluvit to seal all my rivets and seams below the water line on the inside of the hull only. Ive used quite a bit of 3m 5200 too. I can see that working also. But rebucking them rivets or replacing them is what I would start with myself.

A lot of what I did to my boat was a first for me, kinda used the advice I got on some things, and just went at it with others. Im redoing some things now because of it, but nothing major.


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## g0nef1sshn (Sep 26, 2015)

#4. I want to mount a TM to the front but it has a radius. Should I cut that off and fab something new or will it be ok?

Id leave that bow piece alone for looks. and use a tm on the back, But if you want one up there build a platform to offset the angle up there.

#5. I want to rest the front deck I plan to make on the front seat but it sits at an angle. How should I shim this? 

Not quite sure what you asking here?


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## BeerMe (Oct 8, 2015)

Hey guys. Quick update. I wasn't frustrated that I didn't get any feedback. I was just hoping for some kind of feedback so I don't screw anything up and have to do it twice. I removed the transom, cleaned up the board, placed it back in place with some 5200 and stainless steel bolts, washers, and nuts. Sprayed some self etching primer on quite a bit of the outside and finally got the epoxy done on the seams last night. These pics are from my last post but my cord wouldn't work so I didn't get them uploaded.


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## BeerMe (Oct 8, 2015)

I learned a little trick that I think worked pretty good for bucking rivets, as I don't have anything to do that and this is the first time I've ever riveted anything. I dipped the rivets in 5200 and put a washer on the back side ( both aluminum ) and popped em off. They felt loose to me so I grapped the top of a jack stand and held it with my leg and then beat the back side with a hammer. I think it worked pretty good.


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## BeerMe (Oct 8, 2015)

I am wanting to get this thing done on the outside at least so I can take it out before it gets too cold but I acquired another project as well. Having to juggle a lot of my time. Need more hours in the day.


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## bobberboy (Oct 8, 2015)

BeerMe said:


> I am wanting to get this thing done on the outside at least so I can take it out before it gets too cold but I acquired another project as well. Having to juggle a lot of my time. Need more hours in the day.




Speaking of tin boats...that's a pretty sweet one. Looks like a lot of work ahead. I like to work on boats but not cars so I have to admire your courage to take that Willys on.


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## Johnny (Oct 8, 2015)

yep - good job indeed. and the Jeep will look just as good, I'm sure.

Just wondering, what did you do to the metal that is behind the transom board??


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## BeerMe (Oct 8, 2015)

Johnny said:


> Just wondering, what did you do to the metal that is behind the transom board??



I sprayed with the same self etching primer.


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## Johnny (Oct 8, 2015)

ok, for bare aluminum, that is the right thing to do . . . 

what did you topcoat the primer with ??
Before putting the wood transom board back on.


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## BeerMe (Oct 8, 2015)

Johnny said:


> ok, for bare aluminum, that is the right thing to do . . .
> 
> what did you topcoat the primer with ??
> Before putting the wood transom board back on.



The primer on the board or the back of the boat?


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## Johnny (Oct 8, 2015)

I am only talking about the aluminum hull . . . 
you put etching primer on the bare metal . . . then what ?


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## BeerMe (Oct 8, 2015)

Johnny said:


> I am only talking about the aluminum hull . . .
> you put etching primer on the bare metal . . . then what ?



I didnt put a top coat on that. Didnt think it needed it since no one is ever going to see it. I used thompsons on the wood the primer and old rattle can paint on the wood.


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## Johnny (Oct 8, 2015)

have you ever seen cars that have been sprayed with primer only
and the brown rust is coming right through the primer like a cancer ?

primer is not a paint or protection agent . . . it is to prime the metal
surface to provide compatible adhesion for the top coat. 
The top coat itself is what protects the metal - not the primer.
Primer alone will only slow the inevitable corrosion that WILL form behind the wood.
It may take months or years, depending on the exposure to the elements.
Salt water will only compound the problem.

Maybe I am wrong, but, I honestly think you should remove the transom board
and apply a good quality top coat. Just because nobody will see it is a short cut
that "may" (or may not) come back to bite you.
Totally your call.

https://www.tinboats.net/primer-and-paint-basics/


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## BeerMe (Oct 8, 2015)

Johnny said:


> have you ever seen cars that have been sprayed with primer only
> and the brown rust is coming right through the primer like a cancer ?
> 
> primer is not a paint or protection agent . . . it is to prime the metal
> ...



Thank you for the input. It is appreciated. This is aluminum however and not sheet metal. The aluminum was well cleaned and not a bit of corrosion was present when primed. There is also a ring of 5200 around the perimeter sealing off most (i hope) moisture from getting behind the board. This board is old (but solid) anyway so if 10 years from now i have to pull it again i will replace it in the process. Anyone else have any thoughts on this? Hindsight is always 20/20 but im not ready to pull it back apart just yet.


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## TexasLoneStar56 (Oct 8, 2015)

Ole Johnny is telling you right about the primer, painting and clear coat. He knows! He was a professional for years, and years, and years. We all know that old LS is aluminum, but you still have to prep it with etching and put a sealer top coat on it. Otherwise, it will do just like he said; look just like sheet metal on an old car that had only been primed. And it won't take long to do it, depending on the elements. You can rattle can it with clear. That's what I did behind the transom wood.

There is a link on here that would probably behoove you to read. It is very informative on paint products, what they do, and how to use them, correctly, and why. I will send it to you. It sure helped me!

You've got a good thing going! Keep up the good work! =D> =D> =D> I know it is a slow process, believe me, I know, but just hang in there. :wink:


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## TexasLoneStar56 (Oct 8, 2015)

Here is the link to the article. It is very well written and easy to understand. I did not know that using two different brand products could make a difference. :shock: Glad I read this, before I applied the clear coat.  

https://www.tinboats.net/primer-and-paint-basics/

Hope it helps.


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## BeerMe (Oct 8, 2015)

Ya.. i read that a while back. Good info. Think im just going to run with what i have going. Anyway.... if you guys feel like telling something before i do it id appreciate it. I epoxied the seam with gflex 650 toughened epoxy and its setting up nicely. Pretty smooth surface but a test run of primer appears to hold nicely. Gonna finish the prep work and hopefully paint it next week. Again im not going for a show boat. It will be used and abused fishing and duck hunting. I do appreciate your input, but im not worried about the transom. If it fails ill post lots of photos and you can all say told ya so.


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## bobberboy (Oct 9, 2015)

BeerMe,
Once you've been on the forum for a while you'll see that patterns develop on posts/responses to posts. In the summer most are busy fishing or doing other things and are less likely to be reading or posting. Also, lots of people are probably posting from their work computers during the week so activity on the site slows down on over the weekend to pick up again on Monday.

It's hard to reign in your enthusiasm when you are excited to work on a project. If you want/need answers to the questions you have you may just have to be patient if you don't want to risk making mistakes. While making mistakes is a good way to learn it sucks to have to do things over. Maybe while you're waiting for responses you could spend some time reading some of the in-depth projects. There is a lot of info to be found here and it's worth the time to dig it out. 

Also, sometimes questions have been asked so many times that members just don't respond anymore. Case in point is that about every other week someone asks about removing seats from their boat and what the structural implications of that are. I used to get on my soap box and give reasons why it's a bad idea but after a while I just gave it up. There are probably about a hundred threads on this question and the answers/opinions are usually divided but the same. The search function is your friend and you should make use of it.

Hang in there. This is a good group and their criticisms are intended to be constructive, not like a spinster aunt who's always on your case about something.


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## BeerMe (Oct 9, 2015)

bobberboy said:


> BeerMe,
> Once you've been on the forum for a while you'll see that patterns develop on posts/responses to posts. In the summer most are busy fishing or doing other things and are less likely to be reading or posting. Also, lots of people are probably posting from their work computers during the week so activity on the site slows down on over the weekend to pick up again on Monday.
> 
> It's hard to reign in your enthusiasm when you are excited to work on a project. If you want/need answers to the questions you have you may just have to be patient if you don't want to risk making mistakes. While making mistakes is a good way to learn it sucks to have to do things over. Maybe while you're waiting for responses you could spend some time reading some of the in-depth projects. There is a lot of info to be found here and it's worth the time to dig it out.
> ...



Thanks for the advice and reply bobber. Yea I know I got a little impatient. I honestly didn't think what I have done so far was big deal. All I have done is strip the paint and dirt and add some new nuts and bolts. I really just want to get the outside done, so I can put stickers on it and take it out before it gets cold. I want to get legal. Worry about the inside later, in which I will have to take my time and am going to need some help. Also, gotta get to work on the Willys.


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## BeerMe (Oct 9, 2015)

I got the handles put back on the boat last night. Did some more priming. And got all the junk that had accumulated in it out for the most part. Going to flip it over hopefully tonight and finish prep work for primer.


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## Johnny (Oct 9, 2015)

a larger area photograph may help more with some suggestions.
back up, on a ladder, with a photo of how much you are going to adjust.
There are a couple of different way to approach this issue.
#1 is to remove the sheet metal and reconfigure with a flat deck with the
proper supports. It will look the same, only it will be flat all over.
#2 is to shim as you describe, just to temporarily get the job done.

we do realize that you want to get it in the water ASAP before it gets cold.
so it does not make one hill of beans as to what material you use (for now)
just to get some action on the water.

When you are snowed in and decide to address some of your issues,
come back with "specific questions" _one by one_ . . . . take small bites.
You can't do it all at once, so don't ask all the questions - all at once. Things
change as you progress through your project. What is an issue today may not
be an issue tomorrow.
Then, you will have more positive results from the gallery.
good luck in all your adventures


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## Johnny (Oct 9, 2015)

where are your transom braces ????
did you ever have a couple of knee braces on that transom ?


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## BeerMe (Oct 9, 2015)

Johnny said:


> where are your transom braces ????
> did you ever have a couple of knee braces on that transom ?



Negative. That's how it was when I got it.


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## Johnny (Oct 9, 2015)

I must have missed it somewhere, but, what size is your boat ?

so far, you have only mentioned a trolling motor.
will this be the only propulsion ? or, is there an outboard in the future ?
Those little pieces of sheet metal are not structural. (IMO).

I am NOT a marine engineer. Several members here are (or close to it).
They will give you some guidance on the knee supports if they are required or not.


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## BeerMe (Oct 9, 2015)

It is 14 ft. I have a 9.9 johnson outboard.


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## Johnny (Oct 9, 2015)

That is a good combination.

Here is my 14' V-hull with a flat aluminum bow.
It is my run-about fun boat - not for fishing.
Just to give you an idea how you can get the flat bow
for a trolling motor. You could use just aluminum bracing
instead of the wood dash like I have for remote steering.
If you purchase a half sheet of 1/8" aluminum, you could
have a pretty good size bow deck for trolling motor and chair
and hatch for storage compartment.
_OR_ - you could use 1/2" plywood as most members here do. (much cheaper).
Just an idea of how to get your bow flat.


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## BeerMe (Oct 9, 2015)

Does anyone else have problems with this forum acting funky on an android phone? Mine does all kinds of weird crap and its annoying as hell. Johnny i think im going to make something out of plywood bc i want to remove it for duck season. Should it be near the top of the gunwale? (I dont even know if thats the right word) the bow of my boat has an upward curve.


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## Johnny (Oct 9, 2015)

there are tons and tons of builds on this forum of doing what you want to do. 

basically, if your bow was flat and straight as mine is, just 
apply a top of your choice, plywood or aluminum.
Rivets make it sort of semi-permanent. Self tapping screws make
it removable whenever you want.
The boat that I have is my family boat - my father bought it new in 1959.
I have two younger brothers. We take turns sharing it. One brother is a ducker.
when it is turn with it, he strips it all down to bare hull and does the duck thing to it.
The other brother is a speed demon - he slaps a 55 Johnson on it and pulls
skis and tubes like crazy. 
When it is my turn, I put on a 25 Johnson, full metal bow, seats, new paint job and I'm good.

if your bow curves up in front, the only choice you have is to rivet the
supports to the inside of the hull below the gunnels to the angle of your choice, and it will be flat.


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## BeerMe (Oct 9, 2015)

Do you think i need some transom braces? I can take more photos if you need a better look. Im going to look for boats like mine on the interwebs and see if they have them as well


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## CrappieSlayer36 (Oct 10, 2015)

I don't think you should need transom braces. If your just going to run a 9.9 the factory transom should be fine. Those old boats are built well. Should handle a 9.9 just fine.


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## BeerMe (Oct 12, 2015)

My first ever YouTube video as photobucket was giving me fits. Still have a few very slight leaks but I'm not too worried about them. Wasn't even enough for the water to pool up. Just damp aluminum. The outboard fired up pretty easily and after we had just got to WOT it died. I pulled it a few times and it would start and idle pretty good but trying to accelerate it would die again. After doing that about 5 times it started running fine. I think there was just some air in the gas line or something. I need a new one. I'm pretty sure the PO ran ethanol gas through this one and the inside lining is very brittle. I guess since that is the case some of it could have came loose and clogged the line or junked up the carb a little. We ran it for about an hour with no more issues though. Check out the vid if you want to see it run.

https://youtu.be/G7HZ-xs0m4s


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## Johnny (Oct 12, 2015)

good job !!
I have the same 1965 9.9 in the Evinrude gender.
It has been sitting for over 10 years. I hope it will run as good as yours !

you are off to a great start.





.


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## BeerMe (Oct 12, 2015)

Johnny said:


> good job !!
> I have the same 1965 9.9 in the Evinrude gender.
> It has been sitting for over 10 years. I hope it will run as good as yours !
> 
> you are off to a great start.



Thanks! Sure was fun. Took a little bit of work to get that Johnson running but it runs real nice and pushes the boat pretty good. I would estimate about 18mph. Fast enough for my needs.


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## BeerMe (Oct 14, 2015)

Update on the boat. I got most of the prep done and light coat of primer on most of the outside. Still a little bit to do. Paint is ordered and should be here tomorrow. I went with Duralux Duck Boat Drab. I plan on spraying it Friday or Saturday after work. Will keep you updated.

This is what happens when you put too much epoxy on.


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## BeerMe (Oct 14, 2015)

Here is the work done on the bottom to date.


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## Johnny (Oct 14, 2015)

BeerMe said: *I plan on spraying it Friday or Saturday after work.*

what time will you be getting off work ?
how long will it be before night falls ?
what will the temperatures be at night there ?
will you be painting outside or inside a garage ?
are you going with oil base or latex ?

temperatures and humidity will grossly affect the adhesion of your paint.


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## BeerMe (Oct 14, 2015)

Johnny said:


> BeerMe said: *I plan on spraying it Friday or Saturday after work.*





Johnny said:


> what time will you be getting off work ?



3:30ish




Johnny said:


> how long will it be before night falls ?



little after 7




Johnny said:


> what will the temperatures be at night there?



see pic




Johnny said:


> will you be painting outside or inside a garage ?



most likely sprayed outside but rolled in the garage when done




Johnny said:


> are you going with oil base or latex ?



Duralux marine paint, I just checked about 4 different sources and none of them mention either of your choices... The only thing I saw was Durable, water resistant alkyd enamel.

https://www.bottompaintstore.com/duralux-camouflage-paint-gallon-p-10803.html

Does it seem like a good plan or bad plan? I should get the paint tomorrow. The high will be 88, low of 51, and 51% humidity. Would it be better to try and start tomorrow is that too high of humidity?


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## Johnny (Oct 14, 2015)

in my world, with my past experience, you will get very good results
if you have about 4 to 6 hours of temps ABOVE 70 degrees.
alkyd enamel is oil base...... thin and clean up with mineral spirits.
a few manufacturers make a latex water base paint and call it alkyd enamel,
but it isn't the true form of oil base paints.

good job so far !!!

*Read, Understand and Follow the directions on the label of all coatings you use.*






.


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## BeerMe (Oct 14, 2015)

Johnny said:


> in my world, with my past experience, you will get very good results
> if you have about 4 to 6 hours of temps ABOVE 70 degrees.
> alkyd enamel is oil base...... thin and clean up with mineral spirits.
> a few manufacturers make a latex water base paint and call it alkyd enamel,
> ...



Thanks for the information! I will check the paint label tomorrow when it gets here. I may pick your brain about spraying as I have never done it. I will check what kind of gun my dad has and get the specs of my compressor so I can provide more info with my questions.


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## TexasLoneStar56 (Oct 15, 2015)

=D> =D> =D> 
Thanks for sharing the video! :mrgreen: 
Keep up the good work!


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## CrappieSlayer36 (Oct 15, 2015)

I sprayed my boat with a Ingersoll sprayer from tractor supply. It did a pretty decent job, although I had to fiddle with it a little bit. I only wish it had a fan tip on it that sprayed a larger coverage area.

I used rustoleum, thinned it down with 8 oz of thinner, to 16 oz of paint. Added some hardner to it and sprayed it on when it was about 80 degrees outside. I am happy with the paint. It came out smooth as glass, and I am happy with it.


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## BeerMe (Oct 16, 2015)

CrappieSlayer36 said:


> I sprayed my boat with a Ingersoll sprayer from tractor supply. It did a pretty decent job, although I had to fiddle with it a little bit. I only wish it had a fan tip on it that sprayed a larger coverage area.
> 
> I used rustoleum, thinned it down with 8 oz of thinner, to 16 oz of paint. Added some hardner to it and sprayed it on when it was about 80 degrees outside. I am happy with the paint. It came out smooth as glass, and I am happy with it.



How big of a compressor were you using? My spraying plans didn't work out so I ended up having to paint the whole thing with a 4" roller and a brush. It sucked.


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## BeerMe (Oct 18, 2015)

This is the first coat. I think I might do some very light sanding before the second coat. Since I had to use a roller I didn't get real even coverage. Not real happy with it but I do like the color. I think the 2nd coat should look better. I suppose it's just gonna get scratched up anyway so why worry too much. Here are some pics.


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## Bigwrench (Oct 19, 2015)

Really enjoying your build ! Can't wait to start painting mine up ! Hope it looks as good as yours.


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## BeerMe (Oct 21, 2015)

Finally im legal! I went the cheap route thinking if it turned out crappy i could just paint over it but im happy with it. Kind of reminds me of an old ww2 jeep. Its finally my weekend so im gonna go to the lake tomorrow. Ready for duck season now!


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## TexasLoneStar56 (Oct 21, 2015)

=D> 
Let us know how she does on the water. Congrats!


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## BeerMe (Oct 21, 2015)

TexasLoneStar56 said:


> =D>
> Let us know how she does on the water. Congrats!



May be another youtube video to watch!


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## BeerMe (Oct 21, 2015)

One more quick pic with the old 1965 Johnson 9.5 hp (excuse me for thinking it was a 9.9 before). It wont be staying white although i kind of like it.


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## Johnny (Oct 22, 2015)

Beer, I find it ironic that you want to paint your good looking motor camo
and I want to paint my ugly camo motor back to original Rude Blue !! LOL
I am about done getting my '69 9-1/2 cleaned up. I hope it runs as good as yours !!
On your motor, have you had any serious issues since you have had it ?
I personally have never had a motor smaller than a 25 Johnson so the 9.5 is a new critter for me.

You have done a great job so far !!!! good luck with the ducks


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## BeerMe (Oct 27, 2015)

Johnny said:


> Beer, I find it ironic that you want to paint your good looking motor camo
> and I want to paint my ugly camo motor back to original Rude Blue !! LOL



LOL yea I have been thinking if I ever want to get something bigger or get a different boat someone may not want it green. Been thinking about just getting a cover for it.



Johnny said:


> On your motor, have you had any serious issues since you have had it ?
> I personally have never had a motor smaller than a 25 Johnson so the 9.5 is a new critter for me.



I have only had it out 3 or 4 times since I got it cleaned up and running. And it had been pretty well taken care of and used often by the PO. But no I have not had any issues except for it dying and not wanting to do anything but idle the time before last I had it out. It was back to running like a top after about 5 minutes of starting it and it dying when throttling up. I have found that at a certain RPM which is pretty low it vibrates a lot. Not sure what that is from but when its throttled down or WOT it runs really smooth and nice.


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## [email protected] (Sep 6, 2022)

Can someone tell me what was the model of the 1957 Lone Star V hull that BeerMe posted on Sept. 16, 2015?


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