# my first MOD. '96 16ft alumacraft



## jmcaswell (Oct 9, 2012)

Men-

my dad and I have owned this boat for 15 years, never modified it. The day has come, and I am pumped. Standard 16 ft boat. rear bench, middle bench, front bench, 8 ribs, 10-15HP motor capacity. 

I am toying with all the ways to mod it. Deck up front, remove center bench ( dont think I can without brace) etc. I have viewed a ton of all of these awesome jobs you all have done. Any master suggestions of what to do? If anyone wants to post plans and specs, pics etc that would be great. 

goals are to make it extreamly functional for 2 fisherman, keep weight, $ down. 

Thanks, Jim


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## Brine (Oct 9, 2012)

Welcome aboard Jim.

If you haven't done so yet, check out all of the mods for inspiration. That should give you more pics/plans/specs than you'll need for your project. 

When you get a chance, take some pics of what you're working with.

Good luck on your build.


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## jmcaswell (Oct 9, 2012)

Thanks. I assume I can find all those mods under this forum?

See my attached Plans and Idea: I would LOVE feedback. I will post Pics asap.

Questions: 

If I Deck out the entire front portion and put a Seat on top front deck, will this make the boat too instable as far a rocking around. Alt- put front seat in well of boat. The lake if fish does have decent traffic so I am wondering if this high front chair will creat alot more rocking. 

Can I really remove the center bench? or with this type of boat it will become fragile?


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## IDAHOAUGER (Oct 9, 2012)

Looking forward to seeing your progress!


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## russ010 (Oct 9, 2012)

Post some pictures of your boat - that will give us a better idea of what you can do...

Also, post the following:
- Width of Floor (basically bottom of your benches)
- length of the top of the benches

you can most likely take out the middle bench and the stability shouldn't be a problem if you brace from side to side with storage in between


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## jmcaswell (Oct 9, 2012)

See the attached pics. This is the As-Is setup. 

The floor width at the bottom of the benches is 36 inches. The bench depth is 18 inches long ( for the back and middle bench) including the "lip" the across top bench lenth is 46ish inches i believe. 

Debating if I can really make a full platform deck up front and or remove the middle bench? 

All ideas welcome!

JC


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## jmcaswell (Oct 9, 2012)

This thing might be 14 feet ! I cant remember.


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## russ010 (Oct 9, 2012)

That looks a lot like a 14' boat...

I wouldn't deck any higher than the middle benches. If you look at how I decked my 12' boat (in my signature), that's about all you really want to do to remain stable out on the water. I would cut out the top section of each bench, and take all the foam out of them and use them for storage - but I wouldn't take it out completely. You'll need the extra strength so that the sides don't cave in on you.

For the front, I would start decking level with the top of the bench, and use 19/32" exterior plywood for the lids and decking. Then just run that up to the front of the bow so that it is level with the top of the bench. There should also be enough room for some storage hatches right in front of the bench for things like batteries, but I would use it to store anchors, life jackets and other things like that. I would also put in a pin type pedestal seat and get a pedestal that is curved (I think I have pictures in my mod)... that will maximize the room you have on the front of your deck.

The middle bench, when cut out and the foam removed, can store a lot of plano boxes or tackle bags with all the baits you will need, as well as 1-2 batteries on each end for your front trolling motor. You can run the batteries in parallel and get a lot more run time while out on the water.

On the rear bench, you can cut it out like the middle, but I would only do it if you really needed the storage space. You can extend the rear deck forward towards the bow and get more storage. Then just deck the rear hatch area between the rear bench and the transom so that you have some extra standing room.
*
BUT... before you do any modding *- I would look at getting a bigger (longer) trailer before I did any mods. You don't want to add any additional weight with that much of the boat hanging off the trailer - otherwise you could end up with an inverted V for a boat... You can pick up a trailer pretty cheap off craigslist, or you can check with places like Harbor Freight or Northern Tool. You can take their trailers and extend the tongue on them.


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## Brine (Oct 9, 2012)

X2 with what Russ said. 

The trailer picture jumped out at me. 

Here is the link to the mods on the site: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=3156


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## jmcaswell (Oct 9, 2012)

haha. Yall like my trailer? Just borrowed to bring home. DEF getting something more substantail soon!


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## russ010 (Oct 9, 2012)

Forgot I took my 1236 mod out of my signature... but here it is - kinda shows how I did the front decking, but you have more room on yours to add some storage 

https://tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=4493


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## jmcaswell (Oct 9, 2012)

Russ010-

Thanks- So you are saying run the deck from the middle bench to the front bench on a level plane? below the outter rim of the boat? so its below top deck a couple inches etc. like shown in my plan below. 

You said- I would cut out the top section of each bench, and take all the foam out of them and use them for storage - but I wouldn't take it out completely.

How much "foam" can be taken out to remain stable? like one side? or the middle part ?like 2 square feet ? 

In you guys opinion, when running on open semi rough water will the front passenger be able to sit on the upper deck chair and be stable? or will this simple be used with fishing/trolling etc? 

Also i couldnt find your 12" mod in your signature. please provide link. 

Thank you


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## jmcaswell (Oct 9, 2012)

plan


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## russ010 (Oct 9, 2012)

Here's my old 1236 mod - 
https://tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=4493

Oh for the foam... I meant take all of the foam out, but I wouldn't take the WHOLE BENCH out completely. The foam is only good for you if you flip the boat over, doesn't help you at all with it being stable while upright in the water.

As far as your plan that you posted - I would start the front deck level with the top of the piece of wood that you put over the middle bench used for a lid, then run that parallel with the boat up towards the bow. You won't be level with the front seat on the bow, you'll be a few inches below the top of that bench. You need to keep your center of gravity low so that you can stand around up front while fishing.

As far as someone sitting on that seat when you're going down the lake - I would have them move towards the back... it will be easier for you to get up on plane. If you leave them up there, they will be added weight slowing you down, plus they will probably get a little wet from the flat bottom boat!


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## HOUSE (Oct 9, 2012)

I love that picture of the trailer  Good luck with the mod .
With your benches having such large surface area, you might be able to get by with just 1/4" plywood instead of 1/2inch to save some weight. Keep us posted as you go with pics.


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## jmcaswell (Oct 9, 2012)

Awesome thanks. your 12 footer is awesome. I noticed you kept the front "deck" below the front bench and middle bench, would you recomend this? or bc mine is a 1436 run from the middle bench to the front bench (with the tilted back angle u suggested)

Also framing-- wood or aluminum rods? weight wise whats the diff? price wise wood is cheaper, and I can spar it so well that wood wont rot for years. Thanks!

I noticed your 12 footer was below deck here--

https://tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=4493&start=30


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## russ010 (Oct 9, 2012)

I didn't deck my front any higher because I didn't have any extra room to keep my center of gravity low. 

You've got a lot more room between your middle bench and the bow bench... you should be fine running the deck from the middle bench lid to the front bow. It won't be decked all the way up to the gunwhales, and you' should be back a little further towards the middle than I was in my boat too. 

As far as framing - use whatever you can afford. I used 2x2 on that build, and it's still lasting today. I've used aluminum on the rest, but that's really only because I got to where I could pay a little more with the money I sold other boats for.


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## jmcaswell (Oct 10, 2012)

Thank you all for your comments and interest. I took some pics last night of the boat stripped down. 

I know there are many posts on this forum in regards to Live wells. Right now i am debating how to approach this. The fishing I do requires live bait- blueback herring in North Georgia. Should I-- 

a) go with something simple, like a self contained premade 5-8 gallon well, 
b) build in a well and add the air pump etc. It wont be that big ( due to weight) so it will be removable so I wont need a auto fill or drainange system. 

any adivice would be great (and links!)

Jim


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## Ictalurus (Oct 10, 2012)

jmcaswell said:


> The fishing I do requires live bait- blueback herring in North Georgia. Should I--
> 
> a) go with something simple, like a self contained premade 5-8 gallon well,
> b) build in a well and add the air pump etc. It wont be that big ( due to weight) so it will be removable so I wont need a auto fill or drainange system.
> ...



Use an old cooler for your livewell, it can be easily removed when not in use. I also recommend taking out the foam as Russ has advised, however, get some blue/pink board and put it down under the deck. This will help deaden (sp) sound and also, if you put in what you take out, keep you boat floating should it be swamped. 

I'm not sure if your set on the higher deck yet, but it may get tippy in a 1436. I saw you had been debating removing the middle seat, IMO this boat would be the perfect candidate for a mod similar to Buffords 12' he did awhile back. The middle part of the center seat was removed, creating a walk through area to reach the LOW front deck while at the same time providing structural support for the boat. Good luck.


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## jmcaswell (Oct 10, 2012)

Thanks Ictalurus. Do you have a link to Buffords 12' i cant find him on this forum

SO use an old cooler and install the aerator myself? If I want a 5 gallon tank, does it need to be tall like a 5 gallon bucket or can it be short and wide? I know a live well cant have true corners, and needs rounded circle bucket. Im thinking about modding half the the center seat for the well. 

thanks again!


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## Ictalurus (Oct 10, 2012)

Here's the link to Bufford's build, check it out. 

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=9912

Coolers work great because they are insulated, which helps down here in the south. I also like it because you can still fill it up w/ ice and use it as a cooler if needed. Bottom line, the livewell is up to you. I don't fish tournaments and if I'm keeping fish they go right in the cooler, minnows go in a minnow bucket. The livewell is always a super nice touch, but they do take up much needed room in a 14' boat. I've always subscribed to the keep it simple process and put as little do-dads in my boat as possible, no wiring, leaks, etc to fiddle with.


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## jmcaswell (Oct 10, 2012)

I hear ya. thanks. my well would be to keep blueback herring live, which is a 3-4 inch fish, which need to be live when fishing with. 

thanks,


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## russ010 (Oct 10, 2012)

Where are you fishing at in North Georgia??? I'm in Canton


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## jmcaswell (Oct 11, 2012)

I fish Rabun and Burton a lot and use alot of blueback herring. I need to get a good basic baitwell set up!


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## Ictalurus (Oct 11, 2012)

Check out river bottom outdoors baitwell on his 1448 alumicraft, it is tasty!


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## jmcaswell (Oct 12, 2012)

Mods are coming along great, front deck is getting framed up and looking good. Pics to follow. 

1) Baitwell. Lots of folks have recomended the grayline systems. Any other good recs on an all inclusive system for a 5-10 gallon tank. Or should I buy a smaller cooler, and mod myself? so many options.

https://www.graylinebaittanks.com/?page=12&sku=11WWASS

2) I am not going to get into repainting the entire boat. Its in good shape, kinda rough looking and I like it that way (for now) But I am going to treat the insides particullary the parts that will be covered with a new coat of something. Will rusto-olum do the trick or should I spray with something else? 

Thanks to all.

Jim


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## Brine (Oct 12, 2012)

I don't fish with bluebacks, but if I'm not mistaken..... they require a rounded livewell to prevent them from dying quickly. That may rule out a square cooler/livewell.


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## jmcaswell (Oct 15, 2012)

coming along!

got the decking in. i have located to quality outdoor marine carpet and will be installing it this week. 

Classic Dorsett carpet: https://www.basspro.com/Dorsett-Classic-Marine-Carpet/product/96836/

I didnt like the quality, weight or backing of the Lowes outdoor and I really dont want to redo this in a year.


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## jmcaswell (Oct 18, 2012)

men im coming along. new pics to follow. 

*Debating between carpet lined deck or NON skid paint? for the plywood decks. 

I know carpet will look much better but..

A guy at west marine said that esp when cast netting, the carpet will be a mess to clean. Advice? thoughts?

Im researching carpet now and have located some quality marine carpet, the stuff at lowes will not last I believe.*


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## Doubles (Oct 18, 2012)

I bought carpet from boatcarpetsales off of ebay. Fairly impressed with the quality thus far, much better than the Lowes/Home Depot option. It's still going in so it hasn't yet stood the test of time, but the look and feel has made me a believer.

DD


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## Ictalurus (Oct 18, 2012)

jmcaswell said:


> men im coming along. new pics to follow.
> 
> *Debating between carpet lined deck or NON skid paint? for the plywood decks.
> 
> ...


*

I redid my decks this August, went from carpet to non skid paint. Other than looks, the non skid is hands down a better option. My kid can spill whatever and I don't care, people can track in dirt from the river, catfish slime, everything cleans up so easy.*


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## jmcaswell (Oct 23, 2012)

COMING ALONG! See pics. 

I need to build some kind of casing in the middle bench to case in the cooler I am putting in there. and secure it. protect the stryofoam , etc. any cool ideas?

Battery setup--- SIMPLE. battery to TM and 12v to air/pump and depth finder. to a need a break etc? or can i connect all directly and not worry about it?

Nobody has a trailer for sale in Atlanta/North GA do THEY?!


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## jmcaswell (Oct 23, 2012)

Here is is my "basic" set up. nothing fancy at all. just want it sturdy and work well. any tips etc / ideas yall think of let me know

Jim


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## russ010 (Oct 23, 2012)

setup looks good - but you may want to move some of the larger items to the middle or the other side of the boat... they way you have it set up now, you're more than likely going to be weight heavy on the right side of the boat and have a little "lean" when you are on that side fishing


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## jmcaswell (Oct 24, 2012)

Thanks Russ. Def going to center the fuel/batteries etc to balance. 

OK. I need advice and or tips from the creative minds of this forum.

My front storage comp for my 1436 isnt a large area. i want to store my batteries in there. ones a stradard big boy thats 11'' wide 7" tall etc. The prob is that the storage area bows upward as the front of Jons do, to meet the edge of the front bench, therefor the storage area is deep at first (11.5'' at the rib and shallows up to 7" or so at the front by the front bench walls. I can secure the batteries etc, and they are an "angle" but theres not alot of depth to access the compartment. esp if i built a hatch door in the front ply wall, it would be a pain to reach in there, re wire, charge batts, remove batts etc. SO i am thinking I must building an access hatch/door in the top deck of the the new ply deck to easily access the storage comp, mess with batts, wiring, toggle switches/power box etc. 

the question is , how to do it. so its A) stable B) looks good C) the 3/4" play doesnt warp at the door/hatch area. So i have designed several options. either a) build a hatch "door" 
B) hinge the entire front ply deck in same fashion, like a big hood I can open ( SEE PLANS BELOW)

C) order a nice pre made one like this link below ( can I walk fish on this?)
https://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=434357&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50667&subdeptNum=50680&classNum=50682


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## russ010 (Oct 25, 2012)

sorry this is going to be short, but I didn't have enough time to read the whole thing...

But - be careful putting those types of batteries on an incline... The only type of battery that I would put anyway but vertical would be a sealed AGM or Gel battery.. Wet cells are (in my opinion) made to be set vertical so that all cells are wet and they are vertical 99% of the time. That's why I put my batteries in the first bench closet to the bow - so that they had no way of seeping or spilling acid out.

I'll try to read more tomorrow and give some more ideas.


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## jmcaswell (Oct 25, 2012)

wow did NOT know that.


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## jmcaswell (Oct 30, 2012)

Coming Along


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## russ010 (Nov 7, 2012)

boat's coming along nicely - keep up the good work!


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## jmcaswell (Nov 20, 2012)

Boys--I finished up my project, it was awesome, spent 5xs as much as I thought and my wife hates me, but it was awesome. Caught a nive 5 lb spot and some walleye the first day out! Now I want to trade in my 1436 for a 1648.. great!


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## jmcaswell (Nov 20, 2012)

more pics


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## jmcaswell (Nov 20, 2012)

Hatch


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## Gators5220 (Nov 20, 2012)

Sweet little rig man, love what you've done with it.


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