# Deck of a floor idea in a 1436 jon boat



## scoobeb (Oct 20, 2013)

I really don't want to go plywood if i don't have to so any ideas on a floor that is easy and stable?I like the carpeted floor but i just want a easy put in floor.I just want to make sure i'm stepping on the ribs instead of the bottom of the boat putting pressure on the rivets.If i have to go wood i will.I just don't feel like carpeting it,If i had another option that would be great.

Any help would be awesome.


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## T Man (Oct 20, 2013)

Wood is the cheapest, but you can use aluminum, or I have seen nyloboard used for flooring as well.


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## longshot (Oct 20, 2013)

Mine is all aluminum it will never rot like wood and is lighter.


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## vahunter (Oct 20, 2013)

longshot said:


> Mine is all aluminum it will never rot like wood and is lighter.


x2 you'll only have to do it once.

Put some closed cell foam board the same height as the ribs between the ribs will give you extra support. 

Carpeting wood and aluminum is quite easy actually.


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## PSG-1 (Oct 20, 2013)

+1 to what vahunter said. If you install foam between all the ribs, it will add enough stiffness that you can use .062" aluminum sheet, and it won't warp or buckle. I've used this configuration in 2 johnboats, and it works great.


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## Inkd (Oct 20, 2013)

I used foam board between the ribs and then used interlocking vinyl fencing with foam board inside for stability.


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## Bartledo (Oct 21, 2013)

Hey guys i'm new to the forum and am about to put some flooring in my alumacraft 1442. I was wondering where you guys find the aluminum for flooring and what thickness is recommended. Also where and what kind of foam are you using underneath. 

Also want to thank all on the forum for the wealth of information shared here. I found this place a month ago and have been addicted ever since. I am blown away at the skills of some of you guys!


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## longshot (Oct 21, 2013)

No foam under mine that way the bilge area is still functional


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## jtrip (Oct 22, 2013)

longhsot how thick is the aluminum you used on your floor without foam? It was suggested to use .062" with foam for support.


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## PSG-1 (Oct 22, 2013)

As per ABYC standards, when a manufacturer builds a boat, foam is supposed to be placed in any voids in the boat not filled by fuel tanks, etc. Many people do aftermarket deck mods without installing foam. As for leaving it open for drainage, if the deck is configured the right way, there's no need to do that, all water will run off the inner deck and go back to the bilge area. 

I personally hate the factory deck design of my Triton 1650SC, in fact, everything about the overall boat design sucks. It's like everything they did was an afterthought. Aside from the 'gangsta lean' (boat leans excessively to the right because they've got the console and livewell on the same side) there are plenty of other issues. First, there's a huge hole under the console for dirt and everything else to run into when the deck is washed down, then, in the stern area, they have huge voids all underneath the decking where more crap accumulates. More and more, I miss my little 14' duracraft that I built the inner deck for. That was the easiest boat in the world to keep clean, it took all of about 1 minute to wash down the deck and then clean the tray at the rear bench seat. My Triton takes about 2 hours to get clean, and even then, there's no telling how much crap is still under that inner deck because of their shoddy design.


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## longshot (Oct 22, 2013)

.125


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## RiverBottomOutdoors (Oct 22, 2013)

I didn't put foam under my floor because of of this.....water might drain just fine...but a couple of gallons of carp blood...not so much. I sold this boat, but I believe the floor was .090.


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## Scott1298 (Oct 22, 2013)

I used sealed 1/2" plywood and square aluminum tubing the same height as my ribs, with no foam to collect water, blood etc. And as I said during my build; light, tight, and strong under extreme fat guy tests!


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## nwe319 (Oct 23, 2013)

I had the same size boat and used 1/2" plywood sealed, and then put cheap marien carpet from lowes on it. Looks great and it exceptionally functionals. Of course it did add weight but not so much that it drastically changed the way the boat rode.


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## USKEW (Oct 23, 2013)

I'm trying to make the same decision with what to floor my jon with. I get blood in the boat from deer and hogs. I was leaning towards closed cell foam insulation and the aluminum idea. If it's closed cell insulation, will it really inhibit that much water drainage? There are channels in the bottom of the jon boat running long ways...wouldn't the water drain down those?


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## PSG-1 (Oct 23, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=332769#p332769 said:


> USKEW » Today, 09:55[/url]"]I'm trying to make the same decision with what to floor my jon with. I get blood in the boat from deer and hogs. I was leaning towards closed cell foam insulation and the aluminum idea. If it's closed cell insulation, will it really inhibit that much water drainage? There are channels in the bottom of the jon boat running long ways...wouldn't the water drain down those?




If you build the flooring as a 'tray' like what's in my jetboat, then, you're not going to get very much water in between the deck and the hull. The majority of it will run back to your bilge. But if you leave the gunwales open, it's going to get water, as well as leaves and debris in there. Regardless, closed cell foam will not inhibit your water drainage, the water will drain through the gutters under the foam.


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## longshot (Oct 23, 2013)

My reasoning for no foam is that almost everyone who does a rebuild of an older boat the first thing they post is how they had to tear out all the rotten wood and water logged foam. Then most of the time they build it back the same way. That doesnt make sense to me. 

And there was no foam in my floor before I put a deck over it and since I didnt add hardly any weight to it I see no need to add a potential problem down the road. Its not going to make the boat ride any higher out of the water. I mean I didnt add foam when I put the motor on it and I dont add foam when I fill my livewell. We also didnt take any of the factory foam out when we built it either.


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## PSG-1 (Oct 23, 2013)

You're right, longshot, a lot of the time the factory foam will be waterlogged. And the reason is because the foam is poured in, which means a lot of it gets in the gutters and under the ribs, preventing proper drainage. Then as water sits, the foam begins to absorb it, to a certain extent. In saltwater, it's worse, because of electrolysis and poultice corrosion.

However, if you use sheets of foamboard, this guarantees that the gutters are unobstructed and water can flow through them, under the foam board. Also, having the gutters unobstructed allows for proper ventilation and prevents the foam from being waterlogged.


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## whiskerfrisker (Oct 24, 2013)

Just spit ballin here, but what if one was to wrap the foam is a saran wrap type plastic or painters sheeting to seal the foam, of course sealing the wrap around the foam, and then installed it under the flooring? Water logged foam issue solved perhaps?


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## longshot (Oct 24, 2013)

Why what is the advantage to having foam in your floor?


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## BobbyR (Oct 24, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=332876#p332876 said:


> whiskerfrisker » 24 Oct 2013, 05:14[/url]"]Just spit ballin here, but what if one was to wrap the foam is a saran wrap type plastic or painters sheeting to seal the foam, of course sealing the wrap around the foam, and then installed it under the flooring? Water logged foam issue solved perhaps?



I don't think wrapping the foam would help. Condensation would build up inside the plastic and you would still have the problem. Closed cell foam seems to me to be the best option for those of us who have shallow and want to have a nice deck to fish from.


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## PSG-1 (Oct 24, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=332877#p332877 said:


> longshot » Today, 07:16[/url]"]Why what is the advantage to having foam in your floor?




None, other than dampening noise, vibration, and stiffening up thin floor, such as 1/16". 

And of course, having additional flotation in the event of being swamped, which may not be a concern for those who fish on quiet streams or ponds, but if someone operates on large bodies of water, or where there is boat traffic capable of swamping you, it's a good idea to use foam.


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## scoobeb (Oct 24, 2013)

That is what i use,foamboard from lowes or home depot,never once had an issue or does it ever get water logged.I use it for the same reason,were i fish you make one wrong creek,or move with my boat and the reds,trout and snook go on vacation from you in seconds.They are very spooky and no the foam doesn't take all noise away but i will tell you it helps amazingly.It's just like why they put a piece of wood on the transom of a jon boat,to try and kill off most if not all of the vibration of the outboard,same concept.


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## Country Dave (Oct 24, 2013)

_Aluminum,

One and done, you will never have to do it twice._


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## scoobeb (Oct 25, 2013)

Went to my local rentz place today,they said if they line x my full piece of plywood it would be 100% waterproof and never rot as long as it stays sealed.Right around $200 for 2 pieces of plywood,do they sell it in cans were i can do it myself,maybe not as good but near somewhat close.


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## longshot (Oct 26, 2013)

go to your local auto parts store they sell several different types


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## scoobeb (Oct 26, 2013)

So if i use that stuff from an auto parts store it will work just as good for a water sealant?


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## vahunter (Oct 30, 2013)

It should seal it but the liner seams to chip and therefore no longer be sealed. In my opinion, aluminum, primer and paint would be comparable if not cheaper, lighter and will last longer, basically forever. Basically all the bed liner in the can will do is add a little grip. I've never applied it to wood it may soak in better and prevent chipping. But still heavier than .080-.100 aluminum.


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