# New guy here with question about a 1964 Evinrude Lark VI 40



## LeeinOH (Apr 24, 2016)

Got this boat, motor and trailer for $500. Not sure yet if I can get rid of the cable and pulley steering and go to a console or not???? This is my first boat and my first project will be to get the trailer ship-shape. Thanks in advance for any advice.







Here are a few pics. She's a 1961 Starcraft Runabout 16'. 100% original. A barn find that hasnt seen water in some time. The motor starts and runs, but I need to install a new impeller.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Apr 24, 2016)

Yes you can use a modern helm with that motor, rack and pinion or rotary. Your going to need a few more parts over a motor that has a tilt tube.


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## billyjoebigdaddy (Apr 25, 2016)

With some money and hard work you could make this into a beautiful water craft. I wouldn't start dropping money in that old engine though. Just because it fired up does not mean its a good engine. I've seen people drop as much money in an old engine as it would have cost to buy a much newer engine in top working condition.


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## LeeinOH (Apr 26, 2016)

Thanks for the replies. My plan for this year is just to get it out to the lake and enjoy it as-is for the most part. Any deconstruction or major changes wont happen until the fall.


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## Al U Minium (Apr 26, 2016)

I would go for a clean up and long term restoration. This boat has all the looks and is in really good condition. There are people on here that run older motors that you should get involved with. Don't fear the pulley steering, I installed it on a boat to save cost and it worked just fine.


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## Pappy (Apr 26, 2016)

Cable steering is just fine. I use it in my vintage boats and we used it and still use it in several race boat classes. Inspect the cable and replace if the outer casing is shot. Very cost effective steering. 
Engine is just about bulletproof. Anyone who disagrees does not know these engines. Ignition should be looked at and adjusted with new condensors as a bit of added insurance. If the coils have any cracks replace them as well. Water pump. Replace. Replace the entire pump if the housing is grooved. Save the old housing as a spare. Gear oil should be checked for water. Most common cause of water is the shift rod O-ring. 
Would run additional oil always. This is the first year of production that allowed 50:1 ratio however piston technology was ancient by todays standards and wear will be accelerated with that ratio. Oil is cheaper than powerheads and powerheads are not plentiful....oil is.


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## LeeinOH (Apr 27, 2016)

Thanks so much for the information Pappy. What is a good source for the parts???


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## Pappy (Apr 27, 2016)

Any authorized Evinrude dealer worth his salt can get them. 
Marine Engine should also have the parts needed. 
Try and stay with OEM parts. The carb kits are complete, the water pump impellers fit, the coil shoes actually fit the radius of the flywheel, and the points line up.
I have yet to see a set of Sierra points that actually line up. You probably will not need points anyway.


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## LeeinOH (Apr 27, 2016)

It seemed to run well when I fired it up (Pull rope too... still don't have a battery for it). I sprayed a little WD-40 in the cylinders and put in new plugs, fresh fuel and it started on the second pull :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: 

Found a great youtube video on replacing the water pump for this exact motor...

https://youtu.be/VnTx_WtUpig

Looking forward to getting her in the water.

I'll stick with OEM. Sounds like aftermarket savings aren't worth the headaches.


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## Pappy (Apr 27, 2016)

Before you question it...........this engine will not indicate that it is pumping right off the bat. You will have two water lines from the pump housing. One to the powerhead and the second is a return line to the pump. Secondly the thermostat has to open before water sprays from the exhaust outlet. 
Just an FYi


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## SumDumGuy (Apr 28, 2016)

An intact windshield.... score.


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## LeeinOH (May 1, 2016)

I've just got to find a way to make it clear again.


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## Al U Minium (May 1, 2016)

On the windshield, I have tried to clean clear plastic items and discovered alcohol will cause fractures and in some cases disintegration. Any time you are new the windshield with any chemicals beware. I am really pleased it will keep its engine too. A really nice project.


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## LeeinOH (May 1, 2016)

I think I'll drain the lower today and see if there's and water or metal in the oil.


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## LeeinOH (May 1, 2016)

When I drained the 50/50 oil/water mix, I decided to investigate further....





Upon removing the bearing/seal assembly, the seal appeared good, but the o-ring on the OD of the assy looks flat... it's getting replaced as well as the seal














I finally figured out how to dismantle the rest of the lower (Note... Evinrude electric shift= pain in the butt to take down) to gain access to the water pump. The oval o-ring will get replaced as there was evidence of it leaking and it appears to be flat. Impeller OK, not great... getting replaced. Pump housing good, but pump seal is shot.














Thank goodness for Ziplock bags!!!





Will update as parts come in... thanks for all the help and suggestions.


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## perchjerker (May 1, 2016)

Use Novus plastic posihes and cleaning products for your windshield

On you water in the oil, its not just "a seal"

could be a few. Vent and drain plug gaskets, prop shaft seal, shift rod seal, driveshaft and spaghetti seals come to mind.


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## LeeinOH (May 1, 2016)

Thanks perchjerker... after further examination, there are NO seals on the oil plugs whatsoever. More o-rings to buy. Did not think of this.

Prop shaft seal looks good. This model doesn't have a shift shaft, and what the heck is a spaghetti seal.... I'm guessing it's similar to a labyrinth seal???

Also there are o-rings on the drive shaft gallery seal that don't look so good. One is definitely crushed.






Great job on the Myers build BTW


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## Pappy (May 1, 2016)

No o-ring on the fill and drain screws. Should be a white plastic seal. Cheap. Don't substitute an o-ring here.


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## LeeinOH (May 1, 2016)

Thank you Pappy... will do. Planning on going to the local shop this week.. I figured for a factory dealership, I'd get hosed on parts. Surprisingly, their prices were not out of line with what I saw on the interweb. And the dealer was more than helpful. I think the water pump was $35. Correct parts and my hard earned money stays here and supports local business.


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## Steve A W (May 1, 2016)

That electric shift lower unit takes a special oil.
I don't know what, just that it does.
Pappy can advise you on that.
Good Luck with your boat and motor.

Steve A W


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## LeeinOH (May 2, 2016)

Thanks Steve... I'll check with the dealer as well. You guys are savin' my butt left and right :beer:


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## LeeinOH (May 2, 2016)

I found this while searching on the Google...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/OMC-Evinrude-Johnson-Premium-Blend-Gear-Lube-775608-16-Oz-Electric-Shift-ONLY-/172115351020


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## perchjerker (May 2, 2016)

the spaghetti seal is like a length of o ring and it goes in a groove where the gear case is split in half

If your gear case is one piece then you don't have one

they don't usually leak, but its worth mentioning.


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## Pappy (May 2, 2016)

No spaghetti seal on an electric shift gearcase. No shift rod seal either. 
If you are checking with a dealer just get all the seals for that unit. 
Check in the gearcase housing itself for the fill and drain plug seals. They will normally stick in the housing. 
If they truly are not there then that was probably your leak.


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## LeeinOH (May 2, 2016)

Ordered a complete lower seal kit. I did scratch on the housing thinking the oil drain/level seals had stuck, but there were none. Ordered those as well. Could not get a complete water pump, so I ordered the impeller and I'll head to the local bearing supply house for the new upper seal on the housing. Then it's just a matter of getting it back together.

Any tricks for holding be rollers for the lower bearing in place while re-assembling. I'm thinking heavy grease or a rubber band. Slide the bearing portions together then cut and remove the rubber band. I recovered all the rollers.


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## LeeinOH (May 2, 2016)

Got a new water pump seal and o-rings for the driveshaft gallery... total...$ 7.41. The rest of the parts should be in tomorrow.


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## perchjerker (May 2, 2016)

I have used grease to hold roller bearings in a 2 stroke crankshaft job. Worked fine


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## LeeinOH (May 2, 2016)

Thank you perchjerker. If the rest of the parts come in tomorrow I can get the lower back together and reinstalled. I'll definitely try the grease on the roller bearings first.

Isn't there supposed to be a gasket under the lower wear plate on the water pump???? There was't one when I disassembled.


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## Pappy (May 2, 2016)

On some engines gaskets were present and others not. Not really needed. If you are worried at all use some Adhesive M on the bottom of the housing. All you are doing is sealing out air. Once the pump primes on that style gearcase the prop thrust suppies plenty of water. 
When you tank test however make sure your static water level is several inches above the gearcase to exhaust housing split line. This will insure the pump is under water and primes easily.


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## LeeinOH (May 3, 2016)

Found explosion drawings on marineengine.com. The 40 HP does NOT use a lower or center gasket while the 75 HP DOES. 

Seems odd, but OK :mrgreen: 

Put the extension and extension adapter (with new o-rings) back on. Thinking I should replace the two lower water pump seals even though they do not appear bad. Don't want to have to take the motor apart again for a while.

Also, ordered upper and lower water pump seals from Marineengine.com. The seals from the bearing shop looked kinda whimpy. Again, I don't want to have to do this again if I can help it.


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## LeeinOH (May 5, 2016)

Got the motor back together with no problem. All the parts fit correctly. Thanks for all the help, couldn't have done it without you all.

:beer:


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## Pappy (May 6, 2016)

Thats great! You've been the perfect person for us to work with. Willing to get what is necessary and do the job correctly. Kudos to you! 
Now we need to hear about it running and maybe a pic or ten.


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## LeeinOH (May 7, 2016)

I'm planning on getting her in the water in a few weeks. Got the boat off of the trailer so I could go weigh it yesterday. Made new bunks and will carpet them today. After that comes the trailer plate, state watercraft sticker and a battery, then test the motor in a can. After that, she gets put in the lake :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:


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