# Voyager 16ft jon boat mod, here we go right now! *New Pics



## MNHunter505 (Mar 9, 2013)

I have been on this website for the last year and figured it was time to start my jon boat modification. From what I can tell, my boat is a 1996 70 series Voyager Jon boat. Bottom width is 48" and beam is 70". Picked it up on Craigslist with a Evinrude 35HP and trailer for a good price. Just added a couple pedistal seats and it got me through last season. I just started yesterday so I will be posting pics and updates as I try and complete this in the next couple weeks.
My plan:
-enlarge front casting deck (raised)
-add aft casting deck (raised)
-middle deck (on ribs)
-storage
-possible sidewalls.

Would like to add a livewell but can't find a cheap way to do it. I don't really want to do the cooler route. Would like to find a pre-made alum box I can use or something used -maybe something that was taken out of a boat restore.


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## MNHunter505 (Mar 9, 2013)

Here is a pic after I removed most of the items from the boat; fishfinder, seats, trolling motor, etc.


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## MNHunter505 (Mar 9, 2013)

So I got the rotted wood and decking removed. This carpet was as hard as concrete! ha
The front factory alum casting deck is very weak. I am going to have to re-enforce it when I build onto it.


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## MNHunter505 (Mar 9, 2013)

Wood tops for the side benches removed...


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## MNHunter505 (Mar 9, 2013)

Next on the schedule was to remove every screw. What I mean is that there were random SS screws/bolts going throught the boat, some above the water line, some below. I will have to remember to do a complete walk around of this boat to ensure all holes are filled before putting it back in the water!

So I guess it brings up the question of what are my options of filling the holes? I have read about "5200" and JB weld putty. The putty sounds like a good idea because you can mold it and press it together to fill the hole neatly. What do you think? (they are only the size of 1/4"-ish size holes)

You can see the holes at the bottom of the transom. Some are used for the fishfinder transducer but the other ones aren't used for anything.


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## MNHunter505 (Mar 9, 2013)

Sorry for the string of back back-to-back posts!....I am uploading and updating my progress from yesterday.


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## MNHunter505 (Mar 9, 2013)

Alright, so I have prepped the boat, to some degree, for painting. I have used the steel-wire cup and those sand-paper 4 1/2" grinder plates to smooth any rough edges around holes/corners/imperfections. Then I removed all flakey paint, continuing to grind away from center of the flakey paint area until I hit hardened paint (paint attached to metal). Then I went over the whole boat with 120grit sand paper, very fast and lightly. A very light dusting of the fouled and faded paint was removed. This was a very long and tedious job.

I understand I have to use self-etching primer on any bare metal. Question: do I just walk around the whole boat, using rattle cans, and hit every spot? There are so many spots that it's going to look like a Dalmatian dog! Also, they will be so close together, I wonder if I should just buy a quart or two, load up my gun and spray the entire boat. Can you use the self-etching primer on painted areas as well? Which is the cheaper, quicker, and better route? 

I am sure I am not the first person to have a boat in this shape...what did you guys do before painting?
A little stuck at this point....


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## MNHunter505 (Mar 9, 2013)

So, in summary, the questions I have pending before proceeding forward are:
-how to fill screw size holes
-primer question

Thanks in advance!


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## MNHunter505 (Mar 10, 2013)

MNHunter505 said:


> So, in summary, the questions I have pending before proceeding forward are:
> -how to fill screw size holes
> -primer question
> 
> Thanks in advance!



Had time to do some research on here and found some different ideas for patching my small holes. It was 50/50 on the different options but I am going to use JB MarineWeld. As far as sanding, I will prolly just buy a couple rattle cans and prime all the bare alum. I will post some pics after I prime in a couple days.


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## DuckChaser (Mar 11, 2013)

MNHunter505 said:


> MNHunter505 said:
> 
> 
> > So, in summary, the questions I have pending before proceeding forward are:
> ...



I personally used JB Weld to patch holes in my boat. I sanded it down and painted them. They were mainly rivet holes through the ribs and in the console. I have heard the best thing to do below the water line is put 5200 on a SS bolt. If you don't want to see the bolt heads then the JB Weld would be your best bet. Like you said there are different opinions on the matter. As far as the primer goes, I spot primed mine as well. I feathered it out, but it still doesn't look perfect. I am not the best painter so maybe you will have better luck. Hopefully this helps. Keep up the good work!


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## MNHunter505 (Mar 11, 2013)

DuckChaser said:


> MNHunter505 said:
> 
> 
> > MNHunter505 said:
> ...



Ok, thanks. Also, when you say "feathered", do you mean sand the primed spots, going in an outward direction from center to make a gradual change in the different thickness of paint coats? To try and make it even as possible?


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## DuckChaser (Mar 12, 2013)

MNHunter505 said:


> Ok, thanks. Also, when you say "feathered", do you mean sand the primed spots, going in an outward direction from center to make a gradual change in the different thickness of paint coats? To try and make it even as possible?



That is pretty much what I am talking about. You don't want the transition from paint to bare metal to be seen. So if you make the transition gradual, it makes it hardered to see.


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## MNHunter505 (Mar 13, 2013)

Got it all prepped for painting; sanded, powerwashed, and then wiped down with a micro fiber rag. First coat of primer, wait two hours, then second and last coat of primer.


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## MNHunter505 (Mar 13, 2013)

I put the last coat of primer on and got her put back in the garage. Staying above 60 degrees in there, should be good to go. Next up is to flip it over and put two coats on the belly.


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## coreyltexas (Mar 13, 2013)

Looks like your on your way. Keep it up and keep posting pics I wanna see how you paint it. O.D. green(boring) or 
some cool camo, or some tricked out colors. My vote is camo. LOL


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## MNHunter505 (Mar 14, 2013)

coreyltexas said:


> Looks like your on your way. Keep it up and keep posting pics I wanna see how you paint it. O.D. green(boring) or
> some cool camo, or some tricked out colors. My vote is camo. LOL



Yea, I would love a complex camo design! But, trying to get on the water sooner rather than later so I bought a gallon of Parker's Duck Boat paint in Sand Tan. Defintely didn't want to go with the jonboat green color.


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## MNHunter505 (Mar 14, 2013)

Got it upside down and prepped today, will put the two coats of primer on tomorrow.


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## MNHunter505 (Mar 16, 2013)

Priming complete! Had my buddy Kyle help me finish priming the bottom. Spraying it looks so much better. I rolled on the first coat of primer on the bottom and wasn't happy with the result. So I went back to my Graco sprayer and used it to apply the final coat of primer. Got it back in the garage for the night, suppose to rain.
Tomorrow I will put the first coat of Parkers Sand Tan. Can't wait to see what it looks like.


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## coreyltexas (Mar 16, 2013)

Looking good you have any other plans or just gonna keep it simple to get out there first? I was looking more at the pics and saw the notch on the transom you think that was manufactured like that? Or the PO cut that for a short shaft motor? Keep it up you'll be happy when you take it out for the first time! One more question does your outboard run, tested it out yet? https://www.tinboats.net/forum/posting.php?mode=reply&f=21&t=29553#


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## MNHunter505 (Mar 17, 2013)

coreyltexas said:


> Looking good you have any other plans or just gonna keep it simple to get out there first? I was looking more at the pics and saw the notch on the transom you think that was manufactured like that? Or the PO cut that for a short shaft motor? Keep it up you'll be happy when you take it out for the first time! One more question does your outboard run, tested it out yet? https://www.tinboats.net/forum/posting.php?mode=reply&f=21&t=29553#



Thanks Texas. My plans are to build and carpet a front casting deck, middle floor deck, and rear casting deck. I have a new fishfinder, switch panel, stereo, and seats to install. I am using alum angle for framing and 1/2" plywood for the deck. Definitely trying to get more storgage by installing hatches.
You are correct, the PO cut the transom to take a short shaft. Wish he wouldn't have done that, it's not even a centered cut! But it will be replaced for my winter project next year.
My outboard does run. It's a 1979 but a strong evinrude 35.


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## MNHunter505 (Mar 17, 2013)

First coat of parkers Sand Tan. Topnotch, glad I went with it! Spraying makes all l the difference; faster and better end product.


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## DuckChaser (Mar 18, 2013)

Your boat is looking good. I too went with Parkers paint. To me it is a very good product. I am looking forward to seeing some pictures.


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## MNHunter505 (Mar 18, 2013)

first coat of Parkers Sand Tan.


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## assaultcraft8993 (Mar 18, 2013)

boat looks great MNhunter505. Where did you pick up the parkers paint? I'm here in Richmond,VA. I was going to go with Rust-o-leum top and bottom coat. I also found that the Lowes that I go to sells the 3m 5200 caulk for $9.68/10oz tube...


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## MNHunter505 (Mar 18, 2013)

assaultcraft8993 said:


> boat looks great MNhunter505. Where did you pick up the parkers paint? I'm here in Richmond,VA. I was going to go with Rust-o-leum top and bottom coat. I also found that the Lowes that I go to sells the 3m 5200 caulk for $9.68/10oz tube...



I bought the paint from Cabelas.com. I think you can get it cheaper if you just buy from the Parker's website though. I got the 5200 adhesive from lowes too. Although, I have been reading some other threads about how 5200 isn't meant for alum, but so many members have used it and had good luck with it, that I will prolly use it too. I wish they had it in black thought.

Paint is going on good, thanks.


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## coreyltexas (Mar 18, 2013)

Looking good! I like that color! I bet it won't get too hot in the summer sun too..Won't burn your buns! LOL


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## SaltyDog (Mar 18, 2013)

Boats looking good bro! Looking forward to helping ya with the framing. Hopefully the rain will hold off so we can get the second coat of paint on.


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## MNHunter505 (Mar 18, 2013)

coreyltexas said:


> Looking good! I like that color! I bet it won't get too hot in the summer sun too..Won't burn your buns! LOL


Yea, it should be a good all around color..bass fishing and ducking hunting down the road!


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## MNHunter505 (Mar 18, 2013)

SaltyDog said:


> Boats looking good bro! Looking forward to helping ya with the framing. Hopefully the rain will hold off so we can get the second coat of paint on.



Yea bro, for sure. I was talking to "dixie_boysles", who used Parkers paint as well, and he put all his coats on in a day, (re-appling the next coat when it is dry to the touch, 4 coats in all) and then let it cure for several days to fully harden. Might be the way to go...


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## MNHunter505 (Mar 19, 2013)

Got the last 2 coats of paint on the inside and out. Paint and sprayer does the trick!


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## MNHunter505 (Mar 23, 2013)

The day after I put the final coats of the topcoat on, my neighor "Saltydog" came down to help me build some new bunks for my trailer...since the boat paint is still hardening. Put three coats of spar urethane and used waterproof carpet adhesive, Anchor 986 (same as Henry 663), to attach the carpet, then put a couple staples along the bottom.


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## MNHunter505 (Mar 23, 2013)

I will be putting the boat back on the trailer so I can start the framing.

Do you frame it first or get your deck wood cut and frame to that?


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## assaultcraft8993 (Mar 23, 2013)

You need to frame it first then cut your wood. would be easier..


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## MNHunter505 (Mar 24, 2013)

Started on the framing today. A little more time consuming than I thought. But it's going good.


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## MNHunter505 (Mar 26, 2013)

Finished up framing the forward and aft casting decks. Then I started to cut the 5/8" plywood to size. Leaving roughly 1/8" on the edges for the carpet to be wrapped around.


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## SaltyDog (Mar 26, 2013)

Live Action!


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## MNHunter505 (Mar 26, 2013)

hahaaha...that's right! 
Hey man, just got done with a little Live Action!


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## SaltyDog (Mar 26, 2013)

I'm ready to get some carpeting done on that rig! Get them decks cut out neighbor...ready for some live action! ](*,)


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## MNHunter505 (Mar 29, 2013)

Got a couple new toys for the boat. Found them used but both in good condition. Shaft is going to be too long on the Powerdrive V2 but I can shorten it.


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## MNHunter505 (Mar 30, 2013)

Got all the plywood cut for the decks.


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## MNHunter505 (Mar 30, 2013)

Got three coats of spar varnish on the plywood.


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## MNHunter505 (Apr 2, 2013)

Got the first two pieces carpeted. Went pretty smooth.


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## MNHunter505 (Apr 2, 2013)

update: got a Carver boat cover -Performance Polyguard and onboard charger on it's way. I really wanted 10 amps per bank on a dual bank charger, but I couldn't pass up this deal on Ebay. Got a Guest 5/5 for $75. Do any members use 5amp chargers? Will my batteries be ready by the next morning after charging from sunset to sunrise?


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## MNHunter505 (Apr 3, 2013)

Got two more pieces carpeted tonight...wow, that is some strong smelling adhesive! I am slowly getting over a cold so I am not working as fast as I could. I hate being sick....


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## Pweisbrod (Apr 3, 2013)

Looks great! I am looking forward to doing my flooring and lids now as well, I will be varnishing like you did.


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## MNHunter505 (Apr 7, 2013)

Got some more carpeting done...Saltydog came over and cut the time in half by helping. Thanks bro.


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## MNHunter505 (Apr 8, 2013)

I was able to get the decks fastened down amidships. I forgot to take a picture but I put 2in closed cell foam boards underneath the decks. I used 1.25 inch SS self tapping screws. It went pretty smooth. You can also see the deck drain I installed, plus there is a slight gap between the two front pieces. (the seam that goes length-wise with the boat)


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## MNHunter505 (Apr 11, 2013)

Got the front hatch installed. Lookin good.


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## Pweisbrod (Apr 11, 2013)

Looks great


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## MNHunter505 (Apr 11, 2013)

Thanks, I was pretty happy with the way the carpet hid the hinge.


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## kjames (Apr 11, 2013)

looks great dude keep up the great work, sanding looked good from here maybe I save some cash and bust my aaa sanding instead of taking it to the sand blaster


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## DOBSONFLY (Apr 11, 2013)

Carpet looks awesome keep up the good work! Where did you get it from and what kind? Have some seats I will be doing soon.


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## MNHunter505 (Apr 12, 2013)

DOBSONFLY said:


> Carpet looks awesome keep up the good work! Where did you get it from and what kind? Have some seats I will be doing soon.



I got the carpet from Cabelas, called Cabela's Premium Carpet. Very happy with it, great quality.


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## DOBSONFLY (Apr 14, 2013)

Appreciate the information. Have any tips for putting the carpet down?


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## MNHunter505 (Apr 14, 2013)

DOBSONFLY said:


> Appreciate the information. Have any tips for putting the carpet down?



Make sure you carpet the pieces of wood in the same direction or else from different angles, the carpet will look different. I used contact cement to wrap the carpet around the edge and corners. Make sure you use 100% waterproof adhesive. It should be solvent based. I put three coats of spar varnish on wood. Also, keep the carpet tight when you lay it on the wood or else you will have air pockets and ripples.


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## MNHunter505 (Apr 14, 2013)

Oh yea, if you get the good carpet, compensate for the thickness of the carpet on the edges when you cut your wood to size.


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## MNHunter505 (Apr 14, 2013)

Got a lot of work done today, here are some pics. Just have a few little things to do. Pretty happy with the outcome.


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## MNHunter505 (Apr 15, 2013)

I put my forward battery over on the starboard side...wondering if that was a bad move because of the weight? To help offset it, i am putting my anchor on the port side, only 15 lbs but better than nothing.
What do you guys think? Worse case scenerio, I can always move it, which wouldn't be that bad...


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## assaultcraft8993 (Apr 16, 2013)

I think that will alright due to the fact you will be sitting on the starboard side of the boat to drive..Looks great.


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## SaltyDog (Apr 17, 2013)

Solid build! Top Shelf my friend!


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## MNHunter505 (Apr 20, 2013)

Thanks Saltydog!
Time to get this boat out for a little Live Action!


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## MNHunter505 (Apr 30, 2013)

Haven't been on here in a while, thought I would post a couple progress pics. Took a pic of the back of my switch panel because I know some guys like to see it and visualize how they would do theirs. Also added a fish rod holders and a net for storage.


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## Stevecris (May 6, 2013)

I want to add some fishing rod holders to my boat and was thinking of using the same ones you have used. However, the reviews on that item at Bass Pro site were not good and mentioned that the rod fall out of the holding slots while traveling. What has been your experience with them and do your recommend them?


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## bradleyfisherman (May 6, 2013)

how long did this project take you and i am looking to do this to my 14 foot by 4 foot wide jon boat and was wondering if you had any tips or tricks. Was this off any plans or did you just wing it the whole time. Also do you think this is even a good idea to do this on a 14 foot jon boat.


Thanks,


Bradley


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## MNHunter505 (May 7, 2013)

Stevecris said:


> I want to add some fishing rod holders to my boat and was thinking of using the same ones you have used. However, the reviews on that item at Bass Pro site were not good and mentioned that the rod fall out of the holding slots while traveling. What has been your experience with them and do your recommend them?



I can see how some people experienced that. However, I don't have to trailer my boat very far to the lake and the boat ride isn't too far to my fishing spots so I haven't experienced that. Also, the water isn't very rough either.

They work for me but I can see that they are not super tight or sturdy for rough riding, either while being trailered or on the water. I might add some more screws to keep the rubber more secure. Hope this helps.


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## MNHunter505 (May 7, 2013)

bradleyfisherman said:


> how long did this project take you and i am looking to do this to my 14 foot by 4 foot wide jon boat and was wondering if you had any tips or tricks. Was this off any plans or did you just wing it the whole time. Also do you think this is even a good idea to do this on a 14 foot jon boat.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bradley



I think it is worth it. I have had it out for fishing and with the family on it. Night and day experience. I used pretty high quality materials on my build. Took me about a month and a half. Taking my time along and way and working around weather. Didn't go off a plan, just winged it along the way. 
-use alum for framing
-I would probably use a different primer next time, don't think this adhered properly. I would just use the Parker Duck boat paint primer. 

It's easier to answer specific questions if you have them...hope this helps.


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