# 1652 Weldbilt customers boat for [email protected]



## Prowelder (Jan 1, 2017)

Started a new project. A complete remodel of a 1652 Weldbilt!









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## Prowelder (Jan 1, 2017)

Not much accomplished yet, but more to come soon. Stay tuned. 

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## mbweimar (Jan 1, 2017)

Interesting...what are your plans for the boat? I'm especially interested in the work you're doing on the rear deck.


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## Prowelder (Jan 1, 2017)

I'm going to frame it out and make a door in the middle. Similar to my last build.

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## Prowelder (Jan 1, 2017)

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## Prowelder (Jan 1, 2017)

This is the aluminum diamond plate floor i cut and notched this out first. I'm not going to install it permanently until I finished all my framework. I plan on bringing the front deck back an additional 20 inches. Just past the first rib. I'm going to cut holes in the top of the back seat bench and make a storage compartment for the batteries. And I am also going to cut the front deck out and recess some storage bins in there

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## mbweimar (Jan 1, 2017)

Nice! I wanna do the same thing to mine. Post plenty of pics please!


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## Prowelder (Jan 1, 2017)

Almost done framing out the back deck

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## mbweimar (Jan 2, 2017)

Looks awesome! How thick will the deck be?


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## Jim (Jan 2, 2017)

Following! Might post this on the homepage.


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## Prowelder (Jan 2, 2017)

The back deck is framed out. I'm going to skin over it, and fabricate a door to cover the back. Then I'm going to cut out the bench seat and fabricate battery trays for two 12 volt batteries to sit inside of the back bench.

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## Prowelder (Jan 2, 2017)

On a completely different subject I picked up this beauty today for $400 with a trailor, a front bow mount trolling motor and a old 15 horsepower Evinrude. It's a 15ft 1964 Orlando. This is more my style I'm into the old school stuff. Every Joe shmo has same old lowe jon boat or weldbuilt on the lake. I will start a thread on this as soon as I finish the 1652. This is going to be my personal boat so you don't want to miss this.

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## Prowelder (Jan 2, 2017)

mbweimar said:


> Looks awesome! How thick will the deck be?


1/8 inch aluminum

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## Prowelder (Jan 6, 2017)

templates 

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## mbweimar (Jan 6, 2017)

That's gonna look awesome! Can't wait to see what the hatch will look like! Taking my boat to a fabricator tomorrow to have a fuel cell and some other small stuff done.


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## Prowelder (Jan 6, 2017)

mbweimar said:


> That's gonna look awesome! Can't wait to see what the hatch will look like! Taking my boat to a fabricator tomorrow to have a fuel cell and some other small stuff done.


My customer ordered the hatches and they should be here in the next couple of days. Tomorrow I'm going to work on the floor and the back deck. I sheared the pieces before I left work today to skin the back[emoji570] 

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## gatorglenn (Jan 7, 2017)

[emoji106]


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## Prowelder (Jan 7, 2017)

Prepping the back deck for welding. I had to grind all the welds on the framing smooth. I could have notched around the stock back bench seat, but I figured it would look a lot more professional if I cut it out and ran the new deck smooth with the inside edges of the boat. I'm going home to grab some more beer and then I'm going to weld it up.[emoji6] 

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## Prowelder (Jan 8, 2017)

Back deck is welded up! Next up fab and install back deck doors and hatches.

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## Crankbait (Jan 8, 2017)

Looks good

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## Prowelder (Jan 8, 2017)

Crankbait said:


> Looks good
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900R6 using Tapatalk


Thanks man it's going to look really good when it's completed

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## Crankbait (Jan 8, 2017)

Wish you lived near by. I'm working on my tracker and trying to get some floors,deck extensions, and box's made. I done mind to pay but I'm a little worried about letting the local machine and welding shop weld on my boat.

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## Prowelder (Jan 8, 2017)

Crankbait said:


> Wish you lived near by. I'm working on my tracker and trying to get some floors,deck extensions, and box's made. I done mind to pay but I'm a little worried about letting the local machine and welding shop weld on my boat.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900R6 using Tapatalk


I completely understand I definitely take my time and have an niche for it. I've been doing this for 15 years now and the boats was something I always wanted to get into

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## mbweimar (Jan 8, 2017)

That does look really good. I took my boat to my fabricator yesterday. I'm having the same thing done, except instead of a hatch I'm gonna cut holes for pie plates. Keep the pics coming!


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## gatorglenn (Jan 8, 2017)

Great job [emoji106]


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## fool4fish1226 (Jan 9, 2017)

Awesome work


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## Prowelder (Jan 13, 2017)

Made a little progress on my customers boat tonight. These waterproof hatches he got are really sick. I was going to cut and install them tonight, but I did a lot of cutting and Mig welding at work today and felt like doing some TIG welding. He also wanted to reinforce the transom with some of the leftover diamond plate from the floor. I measured it last night and cut and bent it up at my work before I left today. I had to remove his back handles and relocate his HID tag. I'm a little over 12 hours into this build now.

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## Prowelder (Jan 14, 2017)

So this just happened LOL!
I wasn't tired so I figured I would go ahead and cut out the holes for the hatches. I'm not digging all this foam out tonight though. This thing is really starting to come together. If anybody has any information on how to get this foam out easily I would love to hear it. I'm honestly thinking of pouring a little gasoline on it and lighting it on fire

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## dearl (Jan 14, 2017)

A small round nose garden shovel works better than anything I've tried, looks like around 4 maybe 5 - 30 gallon trash bags full, no fun anyway you look at it. Keep your filter on your shop vac when you clean up or those BB's will be everywhere. Keep up the good work.


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## Prowelder (Jan 14, 2017)

dearl said:


> A small round nose garden shovel works better than anything I've tried, looks like around 4 maybe 5 - 30 gallon trash bags full, no fun anyway you look at it. Keep your filter on your shop vac when you clean up or those BB's will be everywhere. Keep up the good work.


Thanks but I heard if you take a poker and heat it over a flame it will melt the stuff instantly. I'm going to try that route first. I'll let you know how it turns out

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## dearl (Jan 14, 2017)

Prowelder said:


> dearl said:
> 
> 
> > A small round nose garden shovel works better than anything I've tried, looks like around 4 maybe 5 - 30 gallon trash bags full, no fun anyway you look at it. Keep your filter on your shop vac when you clean up or those BB's will be everywhere. Keep up the good work.
> ...



Bad Idea...... Burning or melting Polystyrene Releases possible cancer causing carcinogens, Styrene Monomer contains some nasty stuff you don't want in your lungs, Wear a respirator and keep a fan on. Fastest way is not always the safest way.


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## Crankbait (Jan 14, 2017)

I want to know where he got the hatchs at? I've been searching and only found a couple on ebay

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## Prowelder (Jan 14, 2017)

Crankbait said:


> I want to know where he got the hatchs at? I've been searching and only found a couple on ebay
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900R6 using Tapatalk


These have a sticker on them that says R&R design. They are out of Texas

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## Prowelder (Jan 14, 2017)

dearl said:


> Prowelder said:
> 
> 
> > dearl said:
> ...


I appreciate your concern I will wear a respirator I am a welder by trade so I know all about fumes

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## Crankbait (Jan 14, 2017)

I'm going to look online but if you talk to him please ask where he bought them.

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## dearl (Jan 14, 2017)

R&R design - phone: 972.563.1789 Ask for Mindy Longoria


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## Crankbait (Jan 14, 2017)

Awsome! Thanks alot.

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## mbweimar (Jan 14, 2017)

If you have a shop vac, use a drill with a wire brush on it. It's REALLY fast, but REALLY messy. It worked well when I cut my hatch.


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## schinkr1 (Jan 15, 2017)

I'm curious how you plan to cover that large rear hatch area. I posted a question on my Tracker build project, but never got any feedback. Regarding the hatches, they look like the type sold by Cabelas. If you go to their site and search "custom hatch" they will come up. Quality is fantastic. Also, when i had to remove some foam, I just used a long drywall blade to saw out square sections. Removal was pretty easy and clean. Great build. Looking forward to seeing how you finish up that rear deck.


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## Prowelder (Jan 15, 2017)

schinkr1 said:


> I'm curious how you plan to cover that large rear hatch area. I posted a question on my Tracker build project, but never got any feedback. Regarding the hatches, they look like the type sold by Cabelas. If you go to their site and search "custom hatch" they will come up. Quality is fantastic. Also, when i had to remove some foam, I just used a long drywall blade to saw out square sections. Removal was pretty easy and clean. Great build. Looking forward to seeing how you finish up that rear deck.


I'm going to bend up a pan style door and hinge it.

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## gatorglenn (Jan 15, 2017)

What is the best way to bend a pan type hatch, if you don't have a brake 


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## Prowelder (Jan 16, 2017)

gatorglenn said:


> What is the best way to bend a pan type hatch, if you don't have a brake
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Find someone that has a break. LOL you don't really have another option

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## gatorglenn (Jan 16, 2017)

[emoji23][emoji1303]


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## Prowelder (Jan 16, 2017)

Prowelder said:


> gatorglenn said:
> 
> 
> > What is the best way to bend a pan type hatch, if you don't have a brake
> ...


If you give me the measurements I can build it and ship you a door any size you want. We Except all major credit cards and PayPal through my business

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## gatorglenn (Jan 16, 2017)

I will be getting with you probably before spring right now I am so busy with work I'm not even being able to work on my boat not to mention the bad weather up here thanks but I will definitely get back with you


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## Prowelder (Jan 16, 2017)

Took 15 min to get the foam out. I cut it with a drywall saw and a pry bar. There is a lot of room in there!

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## dearl (Jan 17, 2017)

Curious, Is there a reason you chose to weld the seam between the bench top and the bulkhead, I guess I'm wondering why you wouldn't have used your break to put a lip on that seam. That's a long weld to buff down to a clean line.


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## Prowelder (Jan 17, 2017)

dearl said:


> Curious, Is there a reason you chose to weld the seam between the bench top and the bulkhead, I guess I'm wondering why you wouldn't have used your break to put a lip on that seam. That's a long weld to buff down to a clean line.


Yes it was a lot of grinding and Welding if you notice on the metal it says 6062. That is a hardened aluminum sheet it cannot be bent. My customer already had the sheets and wanted to use them. That is why I did it that way

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## dearl (Jan 17, 2017)

10-4 Yea didn't see the 6061 T6 on it till you mentioned it, makes sense now. You cant even anneal T6 and make it bend in a 90 without breaking.


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## Prowelder (Jan 17, 2017)

dearl said:


> 10-4 Yea didn't see the 6061 T6 on it till you mentioned it, makes sense now. You cant even anneal T6 and make it bend in a 90 without breaking.


Yeah meant 6061 

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## mbweimar (Jan 17, 2017)

Very nice, and YES there is a lot of foam in there! My rear bench wasn't completely filled though. Do you plan to replace the foam in other parts of the boat?


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## Mjmj (Jan 17, 2017)

Crankbait said:


> I want to know where he got the hatchs at? I've been searching and only found a couple on ebay
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900R6 using Tapatalk


Check Cabela's. They have 3 different sizes and are cheaper than any place I could find.


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## Prowelder (Jan 17, 2017)

mbweimar said:


> Very nice, and YES there is a lot of foam in there! My rear bench wasn't completely filled though. Do you plan to replace the foam in other parts of the boat?


No this boat will never see enough wake or speed to need that foam. 


mbweimar said:


> Very nice, and YES there is a lot of foam in there! My rear bench wasn't completely filled though. Do you plan to replace the foam in other parts of the boat?




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## Prowelder (Jan 17, 2017)

Mjmj said:


> Crankbait said:
> 
> 
> > I want to know where he got the hatchs at? I've been searching and only found a couple on ebay
> ...


These hatches were pretty cheap and they are well worth the money. They are solid aluminum powder coated with watertight seals

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## Prowelder (Jan 17, 2017)

One of the most important parts. Framing for deck supports. Even with the .125 aluminum tread plate floor it will still sag overtime.



I'm going to do the front also. The Center 3 support are only 10 inches apart so they should be fine. Ive learned to never slack on the floor because that is going to be a critical point for the longevity of the boat. This floor will never need to come up or be replaced.

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## hsiftac (Jan 19, 2017)

Looking good, some good ideas you have.
Im assuming weldbilts have aluminum transoms from the factory?


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## Prowelder (Jan 19, 2017)

hsiftac said:


> Looking good, some good ideas you have.
> Im assuming weldbilts have aluminum transoms from the factory?


Thanks. Yeah they are solid aluminum boats completely welded.

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## Prowelder (Jan 21, 2017)

I made some progress tonight on the back deck and the Dual battery tray. It's nice to have nice tools. Sometimes it takes money to make money. The only thing left for the back deck is to bolt down the back hatches and attach the hinge for the back lid. I think the custom battery tray turned out really good. I'm very happy with it. I am going to cut a piece of quarter inch rubber to size to fit inside of each tray to set the battery on.

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## awcarlisle01 (Jan 21, 2017)

Your post are really helpful for someone like myself who wants to take boat building to the next level. I can really see the benefits of having metal a brake.


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## riverbud55 (Jan 21, 2017)

Prowelder said:


> dearl said:
> 
> 
> > Curious, Is there a reason you chose to weld the seam between the bench top and the bulkhead, I guess I'm wondering why you wouldn't have used your break to put a lip on that seam. That's a long weld to buff down to a clean line.
> ...



Nice work!!! 6061 t-6 can be bent, do it all the time,,,not sure what you have equipment and tooling but just takes a larger bend radius, 2 times mat'l thickness ,,,,,,https://www.americanmachinetools.com/bend_radius.htm

love them hatches!!! are they lockable???

Just curious what the plan is to replace the required flotation that's been removed??? under the floor??? great use for pods


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## Prowelder (Jan 21, 2017)

riverbud55 said:


> Prowelder said:
> 
> 
> > dearl said:
> ...


I guess it's not impossible but a lot of times it will crack at the seam. In this case it made it easier to make in 2 pieces since I had a lot of custom fitting work to do. The hatches come with a stab Lok that is not keyed, but you can upgrade to a keyed version. 

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## Prowelder (Jan 21, 2017)

riverbud55 said:


> Prowelder said:
> 
> 
> > dearl said:
> ...


I do not think we are going to replace the flotation from the backseat. It is really not necessary if you're going to be fishing in calm freshwater. From my understanding pods have their advantage and disadvantage. The advantage is that it lets you run in shallower water but it also can make the nose dive deeper and run at lower speeds. 

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## Prowelder (Jan 22, 2017)

@Riverbud is that the company you work for ? American Machine Tools?

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## Gman4 (Jan 22, 2017)

Does anyone know exactly what kind of non water absorbing close cell foam to buy as inserts to lay under the subfloor? I see guys using foam board you can buy from Lowes or Home Depot, I do want to replace the foam from the back bench just in case Coast Guard does board my vessel and notices no foam in the Bench. That way, I could at least tell them I replaced the foam in the subfloor for flotation and safety purposes. However, since the subfloor is going to be welded and permanent, I want to make sure I put the right type of foam in place so I won't have waterlogged foam in my boat that would weigh it down and be very difficult to take out if need be! I did read in other sites that the foam boards you buy in the hardware stores will over time absorb water, thats why I was a little hesitant on replacing the foam. Any advise would be appreciated! On another note, Matt from Professional Welding is doing an outstanding job on this rebuild for me! This kid has mad metal skills!!


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## dearl (Jan 23, 2017)

Welcome to the site Gman4,

Most if not all the sheet foam from Lowes guys use for flotation is closed cell, and yes over a long period of time it will hold water. It is way better than the stuff they used to use years ago. With that being said, if you really wanted to replace the foam in your bench and under the floor, simple pool noodles cut to length stuffed under the floor and bench will serve that purpose and provide plenty of floatation, plus they are super cheap. I think 1 of those things displace like 250 lbs. 
The floatation In a vessel is to provide protection to the operator in case the vessel became swamped that the foam will support the boat up to the gunwales, meaning it would not completely sink. This was a boat building standard for insurance reasons. Not saying it wouldn't happen but if the coast guard were to inspect your vessel, they would be looking more for personal safety gear, (life jackets, signal flares, fire ext. etc.) Your guy is doing good work, and as long as you are not over powered, and your bilge pump works, I wouldn't sweat the foam.


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## Gman4 (Jan 23, 2017)

Thanks Dearl for your insite! I did a little research and yes there is a Federal and Coast Guard regulation stating that if your vessel is less than 20ft it must have adequate level floatation which means your vessel when filled with water should float level or neutral with the top of the gunnels. Most Boat manufacturers adhere to this regulation and fill boats with the adequate amount of foam required. So technically the CG could give you a ticket if they were asses about it, but I think your right, if you have all your personal safety gear and required documents you should be good. A friend of mine purchased a brand new 1448 Weldbuilt from a dealer in Alabama and he custom ordered it with no foam in the back bench for storage reasons. Along with the yellow and white Coast Guard Placard there was another placard stamped into the boat that was bright red and it stated This vessel is designed for shallow water use only! Im guessing this placard was a catch all insurance waver to protect the CG and the boat manufacturer.


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## dearl (Jan 24, 2017)

Gman4 said:


> Thanks Dearl for your insite! I did a little research and yes there is a Federal and Coast Guard regulation stating that if your vessel is less than 20ft it must have adequate level floatation which means your vessel when filled with water should float level or neutral with the top of the gunnels. Most Boat manufacturers adhere to this regulation and fill boats with the adequate amount of foam required. So technically the CG could give you a ticket if they were asses about it, but I think your right, if you have all your personal safety gear and required documents you should be good. A friend of mine purchased a brand new 1448 Weldbuilt from a dealer in Alabama and he custom ordered it with no foam in the back bench for storage reasons. Along with the yellow and white Coast Guard Placard there was another placard stamped into the boat that was bright red and it stated This vessel is designed for shallow water use only! Im guessing this placard was a catch all insurance waver to protect the CG and the boat manufacturer.



Good info, thanks for the clarification. If you really want to replace the foam, I can provide you with the calculations so you can figure out how many cubic ft. of 2 lb. closed cell foam it would take, but honestly it would be easier just to stuff pool noodles in every nook and cranny you got, lots of people use them, I've even seen milk jugs and 3 liter coke bottles, lids on tight stuffed under the deck. I mean, they float right.


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## Prowelder (Jan 26, 2017)

Attached the hinged lid for the back compartment 

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## Prowelder (Jan 26, 2017)

On a completely different subject. I made this for another customer for trolling.

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## Catch Release Repeat (Jan 26, 2017)

I made something like that for an old Tin of mine. But for my new boat I've been trying to find something to just go up and over the tiller motor not across the entire transom. Something like a radar arch on a inflatable boat. But there all 500 bucks or more and that's ridiculous. Today I stumbled upon this handle today and think it may fit perfectly over the tiller motor with some clamp on stainless rod holders.






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## Prowelder (Jan 28, 2017)

Catch Release Repeat said:


> I made something like that for an old Tin of mine. But for my new boat I've been trying to find something to just go up and over the tiller motor not across the entire transom. Something like a radar arch on a inflatable boat. But there all 500 bucks or more and that's ridiculous. Today I stumbled upon this handle today and think it may fit perfectly over the tiller motor with some clamp on stainless rod holders.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That's not a bad price for that if it will work for you. For my next boat I'm going to make one that covers the entire back transom, but I am going to make it removable with a couple of Lock Pins

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## Catch Release Repeat (Jan 29, 2017)

I'm actually going to use structural pipe fittings, an offset wall flange to be exact, that has a set screw to tighten it down. And then get some stainless clamp in rod holders to put on it. I'm just waiting for them to give me the OD so I can get the right size fittings.






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## Prowelder (Feb 9, 2017)

I was in Disney World for a week but now I'm back and back at it. Framing for the floor joists and the front deck extension. So we decided not to weld the floor in permanently I will be reinforcing it with foam and screwing it down. I guess it's worth it for the little bit of foam that will fit in there lol. 

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## Prowelder (Feb 12, 2017)

Finished framing the front deck. I'm going to add some more supports across the floor braces to screw the deck down. Hopefully by the end of the week I will have the floor installed and this front decks skined.

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## Prowelder (Feb 13, 2017)

Some templating for the front deck and final adjustments on the floor. That's going to be a big front deck!

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## Prowelder (Feb 15, 2017)

This thing is starting to come together. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel!

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## DPI (Feb 15, 2017)

Where did you get the hatches?

The build is looking good.


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## Prowelder (Feb 15, 2017)

It's in the thread. They are made by R&R hatches.

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## Prowelder (Feb 17, 2017)

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## Lockndam25 (Feb 20, 2017)

Very nice build you do good work


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## mbweimar (Feb 20, 2017)

That looks really good so far. That fabrication is worth as much as the hull.


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## Prowelder (Mar 2, 2017)

Well I'm back. Got sidetracked on my own build for a while, but I have to bump this thing out quick. Tonight I finished welding the front deck and installed the recessed trolling motor tray. An the wires and all. I'm going to finish this build and my tracker by the end of this month. We'll see what happens!

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## DDudley (Mar 3, 2017)

Prowelder said:


> Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk



Looks pretty sweet! Nicely done. I wonder if it would be a good idea to spray or roll a truck-bed liner with some grit for traction in case the floor get wet or covered with slime coat?


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## gatorglenn (Mar 3, 2017)

Did you fabricate those hatches. Are buy them. What is the dimensions of the small ones. Thanks


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## Prowelder (Mar 3, 2017)

The hatches came from R&R hatches the small one is about 9 by 13 inches. I'm not sure exactly how the boat is going to be finished I think carpet. I am just doing the Metal Fab work for a friend

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## gatorglenn (Mar 3, 2017)

Thanks super job 


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## Prowelder (Mar 5, 2017)

Recommendations for carpet for this boat is there a big difference in 20 and 24 ounce

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## Prowelder (Mar 5, 2017)

Prowelder said:


> Recommendations for carpet for this boat is there a big difference in 20 and 24 ounce
> 
> Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk


Disregard this post this is supposed to be on my tracker post

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## Prowelder (Mar 5, 2017)

Got some good time in on the boat this morning starting to wrap up this project.

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## Prowelder (Mar 7, 2017)

Almost done. Installed the Jacker plate on the back and the foam under the floor.

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## mbweimar (Mar 7, 2017)

Isn't it nice just having a harness to run for that jackplate, instead of mounting a pump and running hose?


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## Prowelder (Mar 12, 2017)

Custom diamond plate. Why not right? Give it a little Flair

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## Prowelder (Mar 12, 2017)

mbweimar said:


> Isn't it nice just having a harness to run for that jackplate, instead of mounting a pump and running hose?


Yes the jacking plate is really nice

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## Prowelder (Mar 12, 2017)

Installed some side wall covers. I think it really finishes it off. I think it completely changes the look of the boat. For some reason exposed ribs make the boat look cheap in my opinion.

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## Prowelder (Mar 21, 2017)

Completed this build. I guarantee you will not find another one like it. 

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## Lockndam25 (Mar 21, 2017)

nice Fab work, great build


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## mbweimar (Mar 21, 2017)

Great job! Would it be possible to keep us updated on this boat after your completion? I'd like it see how's it's painted and rigged.


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## Prowelder (Mar 21, 2017)

mbweimar said:


> Great job! Would it be possible to keep us updated on this boat after your completion? I'd like it see how's it's painted and rigged.


Yeah I plan on it. 

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## schinkr1 (Apr 6, 2017)

Matt, thanks again for the awesome work you did for me. The rear hatch you built for me was perfect! It's on page 2 of my build if you want to check it out. https://www.forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=41595


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## Prowelder (Apr 6, 2017)

schinkr1 said:


> Matt, thanks again for the awesome work you did for me. The rear hatch you built for me was perfect! It's on page 2 of my build if you want to check it out. https://www.forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=41595


Thanks man glad to help

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## elrodphil (Apr 10, 2017)

Ok guys...I have to know...after the rebuild how has the boat held up? Any cracks in hull or transom? Where did you get your flooring?


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## Prowelder (Apr 16, 2017)

elrodphil said:


> Ok guys...I have to know...after the rebuild how has the boat held up? Any cracks in hull or transom? Where did you get your flooring?


I don't think this girl has seen water yet still getting the electrical and painting done. I purchased the aluminum from A supplier I own a welding shop

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## Prowelder (Apr 16, 2017)

elrodphil said:


> Ok guys...I have to know...after the rebuild how has the boat held up? Any cracks in hull or transom? Where did you get your flooring?


I guarantee you there will be no cracks he's only running a 9.9 with a little bit of extras pushing high Teens in hp. Fishing small lakes and reservoirs

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