# What to check before buying a trailer?



## BlakeRauch (Apr 5, 2014)

I have a 10' jon boat that I have trouble unloading from the back of the truck by myself. My neighbor has an old jet ski trailer that would be perfect for my boat. It has been sitting for around 5 years. Before making an offer I guess I should make sure it rolls... What else should I check before I buy?


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## JMichael (Apr 5, 2014)

Does he have title for the trailer, if not, have you checked to make sure you can license a home built in your state or if there's other methods of getting a replacement title. Make sure the frame isn't bent or rusted out badly. Be sure you have the abilities or are willing to pay to modify it to suit your plans/needs.


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## Yannie (Apr 5, 2014)

Plan on a new set of tires and possibly wheel bearings also.


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## TNtroller (Apr 5, 2014)

Tires, wheels, hubs, bearings, springs if any, wiring & lights, coupler, might as well plan on replacing all or the majority of 'em or a lot of work to rebuild. In most cases, it's easier and faster to replace and move on.


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## HANGEYE (Apr 5, 2014)

As mentioned , Check the frame for rust. Look at the spring mounts and axle connections. Grab the top of the tire (both sides) and "rock" the trailer side to side, you're checking for any play or clunking coming from the bearings. If so, the bearings are probably shot. Remove the hub cap and castle nut to remove the bearings. Take a good look at the spindles to see if they are scored or discolored. This will tell you if prior or existing bearings have failed. If the spindles are scored or discolored, they may need to be replaced. In most cases, if the spindles need to be replaced you will need to replace the entire axel assembly. If this is the case, consider the cost and availability of replacement before making an offer. If all looks good and you make the purchase, remove both bearings, clean everything up and repack the bearings. Take a good look at the tires for uneven wear and weather checking. Replace if needed. Clean up the frame, give it fresh coat of paint, make necessary adjustment to the carriage to suit your needs, rewire the lights if necessary, post LOTS of pictures of the rebuild and enjoy your new trailer.

Good luck and if I missed something, I'm sure someone here will fill in the blanks and/or make corrections to what I have posted. 

Hope this helps
Doug


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## HANGEYE (Apr 5, 2014)

wingsnhammers 
Post subject: Things I have learned about boat trailers

PostPosted: 25 Jun 2013, 18:30 


Joined: 21 Aug 2012, 21:33
Posts: 201
Location: Guntersville, Al 










Here are a few things that I have learned about boat trailers over the years.

1. Never trust what the previous owner tells you!
2. Pull the hubs and check the bearings, races, and seals. Chances are, something will need to be replaced even if it is only the grease.
3. If the wheels and tires are old, so are the valve stems. I weak valve stem WILL fling off and leave you with a flat.
4. Submersible lights aren't always truly submersible.
5. If you decide to take an old trailer apart to rebuild it, plan on buying new hardware. Chances are that most of the original hardware is rusted beyond use.
6. If you are completely rewiring a trailer, take the time and do it right the first time. It will help save headaches later on.
7. Never trust what the previous owner tells you!
8. Make sure your coupler latch has a pin or lock in it. It isn't a good feeling getting to the ramp and seeing that the latch is up. 
9. Carry a GOOD spare tire and wheel. If at all possible, have an extra hub with bearings handy, too.
10. A good spare tire/wheel or hub is no good if you don't have the tools to change it. 
11. Don't use rope as a winch strap. That junk just kinks up and rolls into itself and can be quite embarrassing having to spend 10 minutes fidgeting with that dang rope.
12. Make sure your boat is secured to the trailer properly before towing. The guy I saw last weekend with his 2012 19' Ebbtide in the weeds beside the road reminded me how important it is to make sure the thing is on there good!
13. Can't end on 13. I'm superstitious.
14. Never trust what the previous owner tells you!

Sorry for the small rant, guys. I'm on my second boat trailer now, and I learned a few (but not all) of these the hard way. I completely rebuilt the first trailer and was lucky enough to be able to buy new hubs to fix most of my issues with it. The new trailer was completely rebuilt and gone through before I even started on the boat. I ended up getting a flat because a valve stem rotted apart and noticed that I had water in my hubs. The inner seal was the only part that I didn't inspect or replace when I first went though it. :roll: I also have a problem with my tires scrubbing the fenders when there is any weight in the boat. I can't buy new leaf springs because all I can find is 1 3/4" leaf packs and mine has 1 1/2". I also can't buy a new hub kit because the spindle is tapered. The inner bearing is 1" and the outer is 1/2". This thing is starting to be a pain. I will eventually work through it though. It just sucks that I had to spend all of my mod money on my trailer and not the boat. I still need to get some steel bar stock and bolts so that I can make longer shackles for my leaf springs to give me the extra clearance I need. I still haven't even started trying to fix the bunks to make the boat sit better on the trailer either. #-o 

Anyway, I hope you all have a wonderful day. Maybe someone here will read something here that will help them out in the future. 

AND THIS ^^^^^^^^^^


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## HANGEYE (Apr 5, 2014)

Boat2fast 
Post subject: is this normal?

PostPosted: 12 Mar 2014, 04:22 


Joined: 27 Jan 2014, 06:47
Posts: 133
Location: Southwick MA 










BOAT TRAILER bearings have the unique privilege of being dunked in the water in their normal course of duty. A warm hub from traveling to the launch, suddenly gets backed in the water and the hub cools. Any air inside contracts and tends to suck water in past the seal or around the dust cap. Perfect seals and perfect dust caps won't allow this...so water always gets in. Water intrusion breaks down grease and rusts bearings, races, and axles. Salt water does it many times worse.

Bearings in good condition, fully greased, and properly adjusted, don't make any sound. If you hear anything from spinning your trailer wheel, you need to pay attention to your bearings.

First thing is getting them apart. Second thing is thoroughly cleaning the hub and bearings. Inspect the bearings. Rusted, pitted, ugly bearings are done for. Check the races inside the hub. If the races are perfectly smooth with no evidence of pitting, spalling, or corrosion, they can stay. If not, then they need to go. Bearing races(cups) and bearing rollers(cones) should be replaced together. If you find cheap crappy cheap junky bearings...replace everything. Inspect the axle. If there are worn spots where the bearings sit OR where the seal rides, then you have to decide whether the axle is a problem. Record the numbers on the bearings, seals, and races. Measure the axle diameter at the bearings and at the seal surface. 

Now you have inspected all components on both sides of the trailer, go to a bearing distributor. Buy a new set of Timken bearings, Bearing Buddys, and a set of 'double-lipped' seals. Double lip seals don't let water in or grease out. This is important if running bearing buddies. Bearing buddies hold pressure on the hub cavity. If you use single lip seals the buddys will just work the grease out the back...make a mess. If you have a regular plain dust cap, or a dust cap with a grease fitting, instead of Bearing Buddys, then a single lip seal is OK. Then you can use your grease gun to pump a little grease 'through' the hub every so often, or, stuff grease into the cap and tap it on forcing grease through the hub and out the back...again messy. Bearing Buddys and double-lip seals are so much cleaner and better and everything. Either way, bearings want to be greased.

There are lots of ways to replace the races in the hub. I carefully tap them out with a tapered punch. They need to have an 'interference fit' or 'press fit'. If the races push right out, or drop right in, or if they spin in the hub, your hub is done for. Emergency repair can be accomplished by 'center punching' around the ID of the hub where the races go. This knurls or raises metal and 'grips' the race as you drive or press it in. It's a temporary fix if you gotta get the trailer on the road tomorrow morning. I've seen it last forever, but don't trust it. Races get driven in till you hear them seat. I sometimes use the old races, ground down a little, as a tool to press in the new ones. Usually a big socket will work. The best thing is to have a set of bearing drivers and/or a shop press. Don't drive in new races with a punch, that only works to get ugly ones out. Use lube in the hub and on the race to ease the installation.

Assembling bearings needs to be done with cleanliness. I use solvent first, followed with air, then carb cleaner, followed by air, then brake cleaner, followed by air. You do not want to pollute your assembly with any dirt. With everything sparkly clean, pack the bearings. Force grease by hand, or with a packer, completely into the bearings. If you have to set the bearing down, put it on a clean paper towel to keep dirt out, and cover it. Fill the sparkly-clean hub with grease leaving enough room to get the axle through. Install the rear bearing and tap the seal into place. Install the hub onto the sparkly-clean and freshly greased axle. Insert the outer bearing, wiggle the hub until the outer bearing, inner bearing, and seal are in place. Thread the nut into place. Tighten by hand.

Now the bearings need the proper adjustment. Tighten the axle nut with a wrench to seat all the components. Don't crank on it...just enough torque to 'feel' everything is seated good. Take the cotter pin, back the nut off enough to insert the cotter pin. This opens up the bearings 'just enough' to give them operating clearance. Do not back off more than 1/6 turn, or one flat of the nut. Put grease in the cap. Install the cap or Bearing Buddy and tap into place. Use a hammer that won't damage the cap. Tap it in straight. Read and follow all the instructions with the Bearing Buddys. 

After all this work is done, take the trailer out for a run. Stop after the first mile or two and check the hubs for temperature. Slightly warm is OK, shouldn't be much heat there at all. Take the trailer home and check the play in the bearings. If the hub is loose on the axle with noticeable play, you need to readjust the bearings. If the hub is tight with no play, you need to readjust the bearings. There should be a nice, smooth rolling, silent, controlled action with only a hint of play, no tightness or tight spots. 

Keeping the hubs in this condition is easy with the Bearing Buddys. Have a grease gun loaded with the same grease you used to assemble the bearings. Don't mix greases. Use the gun to pre-load the hubs until the spring is compressed in the bearing buddy. Don't add any more or you will push the seal out the back of the hub. The spring will keep the hubs pressurized even when you back into the water. No water can get in if there is pressure inside. If you forget to add grease and the spring pressure gradually decreases, the Buddys will have no advantage over regular dust caps. Keeping them filled and the spring compressed means your expensive bearing job could last as long as you own your trailer. Make this part of your pre-trip inspection...every time.

If you are traveling to buy a boat, or anytime you have to tow an unknown trailer, take basic tools for servicing bearings. More than once I have picked up trailers with ratty old rusty bearings. Disassembling, cleaning, and packing rusty/shot bearings in a Walmart parking lot can make the difference between getting home and sitting on the side of the highway with the hub welded to the axle, or bearing fragments all over the road. If you're towing a boat home that you just bought...likely you haven't performed all the legal paperwork just yet. What a target you are sitting on the side of the road with a smoking hub. Ticket(s) and towing...etc.

OK so, that's about all I've learned about trailer bearings, most of it the hard way. 

More info


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