# Trailers that use a 2X4 on winch stand instead of rubber



## Andy Taylor (Jul 12, 2012)

My trailer for my flat bottom/flat front jon boat currently uses a rubber block, with a flat front. The problem is it's only about about 4" wide, so there's some wiggling going on there. If I convert it to a 2X4, can that be done without any welding? Is there a special bracket that I can bolt on? If anyone has any pics that would be great. Thanks.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Jul 12, 2012)

This is how I did mine.


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## Andy Taylor (Jul 13, 2012)

Thanks. The white tubing with the wood mounted on it, was that already on the trailer, or did you weld it on? That's what I want to do with mine, but I have to figure out how. I'll see if my daughter can figure out how to post a pic of my trailer front.


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## J.P. (Jul 13, 2012)

are you asking about the winch post? some are welded on, but majority have a "foot" that is U-bolted to the tongue to allow adjustment. if you look again at the first photo, you'd see the bolts sticking up. not sure if i'm right, the snow could be playing tricks on me......

thank you lckstckn2smknbrls, i'll be copying your bow stopper.


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## rusty.hook (Jul 13, 2012)

What is that "WHITE STUFF" on your boat? never see any of that down here on the Gulf Coast, LOL


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## tincansailor (Jul 13, 2012)

I do not have any pics of mine but it is very similar to the pic that is posted. I cut 2 pieces of angle iron and mounted them using bolts. I covered the 2X4 with carpet like is shown in the pic. It helps stabilize the boat while on trailer better than what was on it when I bought it.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Jul 13, 2012)

Andy Taylor said:


> Thanks. The white tubing with the wood mounted on it, was that already on the trailer, or did you weld it on? That's what I want to do with mine, but I have to figure out how. I'll see if my daughter can figure out how to post a pic of my trailer front.


The winch stand is not original to the trailer and yes it's U-bolted on. The part that has the wood bolted to it came with the winch stand when I bought it. It had an old rubber V stop on it. 
The white stuff is snow.


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## sawmill (Jul 13, 2012)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> Andy Taylor said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks. The white tubing with the wood mounted on it, was that already on the trailer, or did you weld it on? That's what I want to do with mine, but I have to figure out how. I'll see if my daughter can figure out how to post a pic of my trailer front.
> ...



Send some of that white stuff up this way, maybe it will cool the temps down :LOL2:


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## Andy Taylor (Jul 13, 2012)

Here is what I have now. How can I replace the rubber flat block with a 2X4? There's one bolt that runs thru the center of rubber piece. Another problem is the winch handle is too close to the bow of boat. The winch stand bolts onto the tongue with U-bolts, so that can easily be moved. Thanks


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## richg99 (Jul 13, 2012)

I'd say that what lck?????? did on his boat looks near perfect. 

Looks like he used a short 4x4 cut to fit the opening (where your rubber stopper fits now). However, his short 4 x 4 might be need to be made longer for you... by a few inches. Or, perhaps, you might use a 4 x 6.

That way, the long, carpeted, cross piece would wind up a couple of inches further back. That would give you more clearance to crank the handle.

However, if you do push the boat backwards with whatever "fix" you do here...better check to be sure the stern is still fully supported by your trailer. A fully supported transom is the right way to do it. 

So...if your "fix" in the front causes issues in the stern, then you may have to extend or move your hull supports towards the rear.

Rich

p.s. Your grabber handles might get in the way. Your cross piece might have to be shorter, due to the position of the grabber handles. R


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## Andy Taylor (Jul 14, 2012)

One problem I see is my winch reel is too close to the front of boat and the rubber block. It's only about 2" from the reel to the front of boat, so there's not enough room for the 4X4 or 3X3 to fit in there. By the way, the space between the bracket where the rubber stop is, is 3". Whatever wood I put in there could only be 3" wide. The other problem is my bow eye is way higher than the pic posted by lckst... 

Does my winch have to stay where it is mounted? Would it work properly if I can mount it on the vertical part of the stand that angles up and forward? That's the only way I can see this working. I want to make it similiar to lckst's setup in his above pic. Thanks.

Rich, I wouldn't have to move the boat back at all. There's plenty of room for the winch stand to move forward if needed.


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## sawmill (Jul 14, 2012)

Lower you winch and bracket down on your post. Then add wood to replace the rubber block to whatever length you want to put your 2 x 4 on for the front of your boat. By taking out the 2 bolts on you post and lowering your winch and rubber block it will give you more room between the boat and the handle and also line your winch up with you eye on the boat.


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## richg99 (Jul 14, 2012)

Sawmill said it all! Rich


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## Andy Taylor (Jul 14, 2012)

Are you guys saying to lower the entire bracket with winch on it, as it is? Or remove the winch and mount it below the brace like lckst's is? If I do that, the winch would be below the bow eye. Does that matter? As it is now, I only have 4" between the top of bow eye and the bottom of rubber stop.


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## sawmill (Jul 14, 2012)

Move the entire thing down. In your picture yo show 2 bolts holding the winch assembly to the post. Take those out and lower enveything down. If there arenot any holes there make some. Leave the winch mounted on top the way it is. This assembly looks to be adjustable and is held on with those 2 bolts.


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## Andy Taylor (Jul 14, 2012)

Thanks sawmill. I won't know if lowering it will leave me enough room for my 2X4 until I try it. Like I said above, there's only 4" between the top of the bow eye and the bottom of the rubber block. I'll check it out, there are holes every 1" on the winch post. I bought two metal Simpson Strong Ties today at HD that should work. I'm thinking I can remove the rubber block and bolt the two L-brackets on, instead of a 3X3 piece of wood. Then attach my 2X4 to the 2 brackets.


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## sawmill (Jul 14, 2012)

That is what I would do to. But you still should lower your winch to get it more in line with your eye on the boat


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## Andy Taylor (Jul 14, 2012)

Well, I really did it now!!! I wish I never started this project. I lowered the winch, put the 2 brackets on, put the carpeted 2X4 on, undid my rear straps to crank the boat up a few inches, and SNAP!!! Something broke. I look and the metal sheared right above where the bow eye is. Not the weld, the metal directly above the weld. Now I have to have this repaired. And of course the wiring for the front light is visible, right under the metal, where it broke. Do I have to take it to a boat repair shop for repair, or any welding shop? I am so [email protected]#$%n disgusted right now. Thanks.


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## TheMaestro (Jul 14, 2012)

First, take a deep breath... Next, take a pic when you can so we can see exactly where its torn.. You will have to have it welded, but also figure out why it hqppened so it doesnt again... And go have yourself a cold one..or two....


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## Andy Taylor (Jul 14, 2012)

TheMaestro said:


> First, take a deep breath... Next, take a pic when you can so we can see exactly where its torn.. You will have to have it welded, but also figure out why it hqppened so it doesnt again... And go have yourself a cold one..or two....



I'll get a pic up tomorrow, if my daughter will do it. [-o<


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## richg99 (Jul 15, 2012)

Sorry that happened to you....but...

It may well be that the prior owner made a habit of cranking the boat up on dry carpet and greatly weakened the area that broke. Unless your hull was really stuck on the carpet, it is hard to believe that the first pressure that you put on that area would tear the metal as you described. 

Probably was going to happen, sooner or later.

Rich


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## sawmill (Jul 15, 2012)

Take it easy, anything can be fixed. Did you lower your winch lowwer that the eye on the boat? It so move it even to the eye or just slightly above the eye. It may be that the rubber bumper has wore the alumunum thinner in that one area . When you tighten your boat down don't overtighten it. I looked at a 2003 Lund the other day and they had a strap across the back holding it down and it had been tightened to much and had bent each side ot this boaat in about 2 inched on a side.


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## rusty.hook (Jul 15, 2012)

Also make sure your strap is below the eye bolt and not above it, see pics below of right and wrong. If it is above the eye bolt in an accident the boat could fly off onto your vehicle. The same principle would apply if a 2" X 4" with carpet is used or the v-block we use on semi-v boats like mine.


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## Andy Taylor (Jul 15, 2012)

Here are pics of the completed project and one of the damage. As you can see, the damage is right above the bow eye. Do you guys think I will have to take it to a boat repair shop, or can I take it to a good welding shop? The problem is I don't know if the boat is aluminum or steel. It's a 1976 landau flat bottom jon boat. Thanks.


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## Rippen Lips (Jul 15, 2012)

Take it to a local welding shop. I had 7 cracks welded up on my boat for $30.


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## Andy Taylor (Jul 15, 2012)

Thanks. So a welding shop will know how to repair a boat properly? Will they be able to tell if it's steel or aluminum? I think it's steel, but I'm not positive.


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## Rippen Lips (Jul 15, 2012)

Yup , they will know what to do. welding is welding, doesn't mater what it is.


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## acabtp (Jul 16, 2012)

that's an aluminum boat. see all those scratches to bare metal on your gunwale? those would be big patches of rust if it were steel.


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## Andy Taylor (Jul 17, 2012)

acabtp said:


> that's an aluminum boat. see all those scratches to bare metal on your gunwale? those would be big patches of rust if it were steel.



Thanks. I was told it was aluminum when I dropped it off at the welding shop. I should have it back today.


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## sawmill (Jul 17, 2012)

Andy, I noticed in you pictures that you have steel cable on your winch. If I was you I would replace it with a strap that is made for winches. The steel cable has a bad habit of getting broken wires in it and is had on your hands. Just a suggestion.


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## Andy Taylor (Jul 17, 2012)

sawmill said:


> Andy, I noticed in you pictures that you have steel cable on your winch. If I was you I would replace it with a strap that is made for winches. The steel cable has a bad habit of getting broken wires in it and is had on your hands. Just a suggestion.



I should replace it. It came with the cable. Can a strap be put on any winch?


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## sawmill (Jul 17, 2012)

Yes


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Jul 17, 2012)

Wal-mart sells replacement straps.


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## Andy Taylor (Jul 17, 2012)

I'll add replacing the strap to my list. I got the boat back today from the welding shop and they did a very nice job. They also made 2 longer brackets for me that the 2X4 screws onto. Now the 2X4 sits further rearward, giving me more clearance for my winch handle(No more hitting my knuckles). It also allowed me to lower my winch more. The cable is now about 1" above the bow eye. I forgot to ask them if the welded area will rust if I don't paint it? It's a silver color now.

What is the ideal height placement of the 2X4 bow stop? On page 1, lckst's is just below the gunwale lip. Mine is a couple inches lower than his. Is that a problem?


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## rusty.hook (Jul 18, 2012)

Andy Taylor said:


> I'll add replacing the strap to my list. I got the boat back today from the welding shop and they did a very nice job. They also made 2 longer brackets for me that the 2X4 screws onto. Now the 2X4 sits further rearward, giving me more clearance for my winch handle(No more hitting my knuckles). It also allowed me to lower my winch more. The cable is now about 1" above the bow eye. *I forgot to ask them if the welded area will rust if I don't paint it? It's a silver color now.
> *
> 
> That silver color is aluminum also, want rust, don't worry about that. They didn't weld it, they used the heliarc process on it. That is where they use aluminum rods in place of the normal welding rods that will rust.


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## Andy Taylor (Jul 18, 2012)

Thanks rusty.hook. What about my question about the ideal height of the 2X4 bow stop? Thanks guys.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Jul 18, 2012)

Mine is at that height b/c of a handle thats just below the stop.


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## Andy Taylor (Jul 18, 2012)

OK. So there's really no ideal height for it? Mine is about 1/2 way between gunrail and bow eye.


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