# Alumacraft 1648 (updated 9/13/11)



## Howard (Jun 20, 2010)

Here is my short story version. I did a mod back in the late 1980's. No internet and little source of info but I converted a 14' to my liking. Kids came, sold all my toys to spend my time with them. So 20 years later both kids are in college and I am back!  Started my research and I find this site with endless amount of info, wish I had this 20years ago. Thanks for the inspiration guys  . So I really toyed with the idea of starting with a new boat but decided if I could get a great deal I would go used. Picked up a 1993 Alumacraft 1648 with trailer for $300. Trailer is in really good shape but boat needs some work. Here it is .


----------



## Howard (Jun 20, 2010)

Sorry, new to site and I see I need to put last pic first. I do have leaks. Some from rivets and there is a smaill hairline crack in bottom center of hull. Two ribs are cracked also but not to worried about them. Boat is rated for a 50 and the previous owner had a 65 HP motor on it. There is a reason they rate these. So, do I do the gel coat that I read about? Does it really last the test of time, really? Or should I look to get some kind of weld on the leaks? Kind of know what I want for the inside but first must stop leaks! Open for advice and experiences......


----------



## Zum (Jun 20, 2010)

Welcome to the site.
I see you already removed the steel supports on the ribs.
I beleive you might be looking for steelflex or coat it.
I am sure someone will chime in with their reveiws,I've heard nothing but good news.
Nice boat.


----------



## Howard (Jun 20, 2010)

Zum, good eye. I did take off the steel supports and this is where I found the cracked ribs. Will be a easy fix and plan on putting a 9.9 HP so not cocerned about further problems. Yes, would like to know mor about steelflex and how it holds up over time. Also does it seal minor cracks or just rivet leaks??


----------



## Brine (Jun 20, 2010)

:WELCOME: to TinBoats

I swapped your pic around for ya. There is a link on here called "Everything Steelflex". Search for those terms using the search bar in the top right, and you'll find a whole bunch of info on it. 

In the meantime, I'd view Steelflex as a preventative measure instead of a fix. If you have leaky rivets, it's best to buck them now, stop the leak, then decide whether you want to use Steelflex. You're better off using something else to fix the crack too. Welding, aluminum epoxy, etc....

Good luck on the rig. It looks like a great boat to work with. If you can take some close ups of the crack, you'll probably get the best advice you can find from our members, and once again, welcome aboard!


----------



## Howard (Jun 20, 2010)

Thanks Brine, that was kind of my thinking on handling the leaks. Are you the webmaster? Looking into this stuff, Dura Fix welding rods. https://durafix.com/index.html?gname&gclid=CJ_mpL2JsKICFQO7sgod7U4FSQ


----------



## Brine (Jun 20, 2010)

Nope, Jim runs the place. I'm just a bouncer :mrgreen: 

I've seen similar "welding" rods. If I'm not mistaken, they are really "brazing" rods. I can't give you any first hand feedback, but I've heard mixed reviews. I think the application has everything to do with it. Alumaweld is a new product I've been hearing good reviews about, but posting a picture of the crack may yield some clarity on the subject. Just hard to give the best advice alot of times without seeing it.


----------



## Howard (Jun 21, 2010)

Thanks Brine, just wondering how you were able to edit my post. I have done some reading on Alumaweld. I will try to post close up's of leaks.


----------



## Brine (Jun 21, 2010)

Howard said:


> Thanks Brine, just wondering how you were able to edit my post. I have done some reading on Alumaweld. I will try to post close up's of leaks.



I'm one of the webiste *Moderators* whose names will appear in green, and the Grand Poobah is *Jim* whose name appears in red. That will let you know who is who in case you need some help with the forum that requires Admin access. As such, that is why I was able to edit your post. :wink:


----------



## Loggerhead Mike (Jun 21, 2010)

> 1993 Alumacraft 1648 with trailer for $300



nice find!!!

welcome aboard

i try'd my hand at the aluminum brazing rods with no luck and after talking to several welders i beleave the rods are junk.

you cant break threw the oxide layer w/ those rods (cant get it hot enough w/out melting the aluminum). Without getting past the oxide layer the rods wont stick for long, if any


----------



## Nevillizer (Jun 21, 2010)

Loggerhead Mike said:


> > 1993 Alumacraft 1648 with trailer for $300
> 
> 
> 
> ...



This is the problem I have had on the 1973 Duracraft. I was successful at welding some new scrap aluminum as well as two cans together but not the boat. Still trying though.


----------



## Howard (Jun 21, 2010)

Thanks, I wont use the rods. Just might find someone with a tig and pay them.


----------



## bassboy1 (Jun 21, 2010)

Howard said:


> Thanks, I wont use the rods. Just might find someone with a tig and pay them.


You should get your own TIG machine. It's FUN!

Welcome aboard by the way. 

Lastly, you got that boat for 300 junior bacon cheeseburgers? Shoot, that's highway robbery.


----------



## Howard (Jun 22, 2010)

Thanks bassboy, didn't look at it like that, LOL. My welding days are over so I will look for someone that has one ( tig) I can get a hold of a mig and will use it on my trailer. Did find someone who will sandblast the bottom (hull) for $150 but I am concerned with him using to much pressure.


----------



## Sader762 (Jun 23, 2010)

I've had good luck with the ones I got from Northern Tool. Just have to get the Aluminum really hot.


----------



## bassboy1 (Jun 23, 2010)

Howard said:


> Thanks bassboy, didn't look at it like that, LOL. My welding days are over so I will look for someone that has one ( tig) I can get a hold of a mig and will use it on my trailer. Did find someone who will sandblast the bottom (hull) for $150 but I am concerned with him using to much pressure.


You'd be much better off soda blasting or blasting with walnut shells than you would with sand. See if you can find someone capable of that. 

But, if the paint ain't coming off on it's own, I see no reason to blast it off. It is clearly bonded well to the aluminum, and a paint to paint bond is much easier to achieve than a paint to aluminum bond.


----------



## Howard (Jun 23, 2010)

BB, very good point, I was thinking along those lines. It is what it is, a used boat so I don't mind painting over the old paint as long as the old paint is stuck on good. Might just use airplane stripper and go with that. More concerned with it not leaking. I took the boat off the trailer tonight to look at the trailer and start working on it. The trailer is a tilt one and adjustable. Yes I can slide the tongue back another foot and a half if needed. Really lucked out with this find. Thought of just welding it solid but I think its a pretty cool option to tilt it. Never needed to but like the idea.


----------



## Howard (Jun 26, 2010)

Well as you can see I decided to work on the trailer first. Really didn't feel good about bearings or tires so I will redo them incase I need to pull her ( my beast ) somewhere.


----------



## Howard (Jun 26, 2010)

second pic


----------



## Howard (Jun 26, 2010)

3


----------



## Howard (Jun 26, 2010)

I have a little grinding, painting and then reassembly, some parts to be replaced also. I will also break down the winch assembly and replace the hitch receiver from 1 7/8 to a 2" receiver. Could not get the bolts out in the brackets from the leaf springs to frame. Nuts came off but bolts would not slide out, ok pound out. Someone told me they lock in??


----------



## Ranchero50 (Jun 27, 2010)

You have my boats big brother. =D> 

I'd get it welded. It's easy enough to flip over for the rid to the welding shop. I just did a sling from the front eyelet to a garage rafter and flipped it over slowly from the stern.

Jamie


----------



## Howard (Jul 3, 2010)

Ok - so I have been taking some paint off and putting on a primer coat. I also decided to cut off the 1 7/8" coupler to weld on a 2" coupler. For $60 I picked up 2 new hubs with prepacked bearings. The tires were dry rotted and rims where not in good shape so off with the old and in with the new.


----------



## Brine (Jul 3, 2010)

Lookin good Man


----------



## alumacraftjoe (Jul 3, 2010)

Nice work! Can't wait to see more progress!


----------



## Waterwings (Jul 3, 2010)

Lookin' real good! 8)


----------



## Howard (Jul 4, 2010)

Making some head way. Slow process removing paint, priming and finish coat. I did change out my hubs which I am so glad. My old ones did not have the post sticking out to receive a lug nut. They were simply drilled and tapped. You had to run a bolt through the wheel into the hub and then the bolt would protrude on the other side of the hub. So if the bolt got damaged or rusted you probably would not find out until you went to change the tire. Decided to weld my coupler on instead of bolting it. Wanted a cleaner look. Will put on safety chains tomorrow and attach tongue, Then fenders, bunkers and lights, phew.


----------



## Howard (Jul 11, 2010)

Finished the trailer today! Not to bad, just took some time and $. Now I can start on my boat next week. Here are some pics.


----------



## waterfowler1 (Jul 12, 2010)

Wow your trailer really looks good! I was wondering what type of paint/primer did you use on your trailers setup, it looks like it turned out really nice! and about those sandpaper wheels you used on your angle grinder, do they tend to wear down fairly fast?


----------



## Howard (Jul 14, 2010)

Used Rustoleum primer (spray can) and Sherman Williams oil base, brushed on. Yes the wheels do wear kind of fast but they also remove rust fast


----------



## waterfowler1 (Jul 16, 2010)

Ah! I see! I decided to go the brush route. I picked up some rustoleum the other night and it looks real nice!


----------



## Howard (Jul 18, 2010)

Started removing some paint. Had a sandblasting Co. lined up but just decided to dive into it myself with aircraft stripper. Found some corrision on transom  Did some repairs and hope they hold up for a couple of years [-o<


----------



## Froggy (Jul 18, 2010)

Nice Job


----------



## Howard (Jul 19, 2010)

Same spot with etching primer- hope it holds up


----------



## cavman138 (Jul 19, 2010)

Looks good man


----------



## dyeguy1212 (Jul 20, 2010)

What did those tires run you? They look beefy as hell 8)


----------



## waterfowler1 (Jul 21, 2010)

It looks like its coming together! You mentioned you used aircraft stripper for the paint, I have seen it tossed around on the forum but was wondering, how does it work? and how do you use it? Is there a brand I need to look for or will I see it in Home Depot labeled aircraft stripper? lol I like how you used that JB to cover holes, Im sure if you give it some good time to cure your JB will hold well. looking forward to seeing your progress!


----------



## Howard (Jul 21, 2010)

Thanks, this is the brand I used but Rust-oleum also makes it. Had to get it from a auto parts store. Home centers and wally world did not have it in my area. I have 3 layers of paint. I put the first coat on heavy--Apply thick coat in one direction and do not go back over with your brush once applied---- wait 10-15 minutes and scrape off with a plastic putty knife. . I then used a plastic bristle brush to get heavy stuff off. Pic shows whats left after first coat with second coat of stripper on, Using course steel wool really does the job at this time to clean what remains. The steel wool will scrap off and absorb all whats left. BUY YOU SOME CHEMICAL RESISTANT GLOVES. This stuff will burn skin on contact. Use in well ventalated area and protect your eyes!


----------



## sum-kina (Jul 21, 2010)

howard i see your from GA...where from?

HERES ANOTHER GA BOY!!! :mrgreen: 

TIN LOOKS LIKE A GOOD PROJECT BAOT FOR SURE!!!
KEEP THE PICS COMIN!


----------



## Howard (Jul 21, 2010)

Dacula,.... hope to take the paint of the inside of boat tomorrow.

dyeguy 1212 -- I am thinking around $35......... can see them on line at northerntool.com


----------



## Howard (Jul 24, 2010)

Just a update, only bottom left to remove paint  Ran into a friend last night, him and his dad or fabricators so I might have my hook up. I have a few structure issues as well as some leaks that need to be addressed.


----------



## waterfowler1 (Jul 25, 2010)

your boat is lookin really good! having somebody to do some fab for you will definitely be a blessing. keep it up lookin forward to seein your progress!


----------



## sum-kina (Jul 28, 2010)

HOWARD,
have you found anybody to tig your boat yet? if not i work for a welding shop in monroe...we would be more than happy to weld it up for you! project looks like its comin along good! let me know if i can help with anything!!!!

SUM-KINA


----------



## SmallieBigs (Aug 4, 2010)

Awe man that was a sweet find on that tin!!! :shock: 

Great job on the trailer too; I'll be watching to see how the rest turns out for sure...


----------



## Howard (Aug 5, 2010)

Thanks SmallieBigs, waiting on new top rail from Alumacraft. Pretty beat up on the bow and didnt have a good way to fix so I will drill out rivets, cut welds in corners and slip it off. Install new top rail, weld it up and then I can paint =D>


----------



## Howard (Aug 13, 2010)

Was not sure how to fix this top rail, hammer it out ,cover it, ect, when the light bulb came on to just replace it. #-o So I drilled out the rivets, cut at miters and ordered a new 6 foot piece.
Cut new pieces and installed, then off to welder.


----------



## Pruitt1222 (Aug 13, 2010)

Looks great man. I am sure it was cheaper that route then a boat repair place aswell.


----------



## sum-kina (Aug 15, 2010)

howard the tin is comin along i see... looks like they did a pretty good job on the front of your boat. i cant wait to see it when you start the rest of your deckin!

let me know if you need any help, be more than happy to give you a hand.


----------



## Howard (Aug 26, 2010)

Steelflex came and on it went. Still tacky even 6 days later. No more leaky rivets.


----------



## Troutman3000 (Aug 26, 2010)

Howard said:


> Steelflex came and on it went. Still tacky even 6 days later. No more leaky rivets.




You may have mixed it wrong, mine pretty much cured in less than 24 hours. Which side did you mix the pigment into? Do you have it in a really cool place? In the heat that stuff should have cured by now.

J


----------



## Howard (Aug 26, 2010)

> Which side did you mix the pigment into?



Mixed in the cloudy can, part two I believe. I did not mix it in the clear part. Then mixed part 1 and part 2 at a 1 to 1 ratio. The tin has been in the garage and as you know it's very humid these days. It cured and hardened in 24 hours but still has a very little sticky to it. About 1/2 of scotch tape. My oil base paint for my trailer also took days to dry 100%, just so dang humid.


----------



## Howard (Aug 29, 2010)

Had time to apply the primer. Still have a few holes to fill above the water line. I know I should fix, prime and finish paint but I am so anxious to put the top coat on! Just trying to decide to JB Weld or try my luck at the brazing rods again. They are small 1/8 inch holes that I dont wish to rivet at this time. Pic's below show primer only on tin.


----------



## Howard (Aug 29, 2010)

I went ahead and put the first finish coat on. I really like the Parker paint. I am finally seeing some fruits to my labor. Now I can start extending the front deck and add TM, fish finder, lights , seats, ect. Better yet I will be able to fish in it shortly for the first time!!


----------



## Zum (Aug 29, 2010)

Had to click back to see what you started with.
It's looking like a new boat,nice job.


----------



## basshunter25 (Aug 29, 2010)

Awesome job! :beer:


----------



## ScottGA (Aug 29, 2010)

Looks better than some new paint jobs! Great job


----------



## Brine (Aug 29, 2010)

Zum said:


> Had to click back to see what you started with.
> It's looking like a new boat,nice job.



Me too...

Looks great.


----------



## Howard (Sep 7, 2010)

Picked up a couple of toys. I guess I am at the next phase of my mod. I wanted to temporary install the TM to see where I will want it. I also decided to take it out fishing, (first time  ) to get a feel for the boat so I know what mods I want to do. I am glad I did. I also did not get skunked!


----------



## huntinfool (Sep 7, 2010)

Congrats! Paint looks great, looks like a new boat. 

Also nothing better than taking a boat out for a first run and not getting skunked!


----------



## Zum (Sep 8, 2010)

Looks plenty fishable just the way she floats.
An outboard maybe,everything else is just gravy.
Nice job.


----------



## Doug (Sep 9, 2010)

Mod looks great. How did she float, any leaks?

Doug


----------



## raven174us (Sep 9, 2010)

That's a big difference from where you started. It looks great!


----------



## Howard (Sep 9, 2010)

> Mod looks great. How did she float, any leaks?



Doug - floats great, 2 small leaks when I went out by myself. One rivet and a seam about a inch long. Both on the bow. Took on about 1/2 gallon in 4 hours. Not much on a 1648. When I went with my friend it took on no water because it lifted the bow up a bit with the added wieght on the back.

I did learn that I will need to lower and widen my trailer bunks. Tin sits to high, had to bring my rear truck tires to the water edge to load boat.


----------



## CrewCabMax (Sep 13, 2010)

Did you have to thin the parkers paint to spay it? If so, what did you use and how much? Thanks!!


----------



## Howard (Sep 14, 2010)

> Did you have to thin the parkers paint to spay it? If so, what did you use and how much? Thanks!!



Yes, about 10 to 15% and I used paint thinner. Been working on lowering the bunks. As you can see in the pic's it sit's too high. Don't know how the previous owner managed like it is now.


----------



## Nevillizer (Sep 14, 2010)

Looking real good.


----------



## Troutman3000 (Sep 14, 2010)

What did you use to patch the holes? That boat looks great btw!


----------



## weezer71 (Sep 15, 2010)

WOW :shock: Looks brand spankin' new! Great job!!!


----------



## Teammuir1 (Sep 19, 2010)

GREAT JOB and nice looking boat...
I have a 1648 alumacraft ....... mine on the other hand is much older...
STILL in great condition.. just older.....

SO I AM CURIOUS on the nose of your boat.. you replaced some aluminum...
would you please tell me what size you bought ? were you bought it? and how 
much was it....
I cant really tell in the picture... as to the size... I am assuming is a piece of Round 
aluminum tubing?
thanks so much...


----------



## Howard (Sep 19, 2010)

Stacy Warner
Parts/Accessories & Warranty
Warner's Dock, Inc

1020 N Knowles Ave
New Richmond WI 54017
888/222-3625

https://www.warnersdock.com

I'm thinking it was $30 for a 6 foot piece and $30 to ship. They bought it from Alumacraft and had it shipped direct to me. For me, it was worth every penny since it changed the look of my tin to a much cleaner look. It was a big concern when I bought the boat but was a easy fix.

Oh yea, measure your top rail and send a pic to Stacy with your HIN so Alumacraft can match it with your tin.


----------



## DuraCraft (Nov 13, 2010)

Howard, I am late to the party, just found this site, but, want to ad my congratulations too! Man, you did a great job!


----------



## Howard (Sep 12, 2011)

It has been a year since my last update, not that anyone cares  but what the heck, here some pics go


----------



## Howard (Sep 13, 2011)

More pics, still have some more mods to do but I am very comfortable right now


----------



## fish2keel (Sep 13, 2011)

Great mods! Quick questions did you rivet in your cap on your transom or weld it? Mine is cut from the previous owner in a rectangle and im wanting it to be more like yours to give my tiller more clearance. 

Thanks and great job!


----------



## Howard (Sep 13, 2011)

> Quick questions did you rivet in your cap on your transom or weld it?



I would have prefered to weld it but I did rivet it and it holds up fine. I have since added a 5/8 board to the inside to accommodate the throat of my 15HP


----------



## WhoDat? (Oct 12, 2011)

You wouldnt' happen to have a link to the exact wheel/tire combo and or the hubs you bought on northern tool would you? 

I've been looking, but i'm not sure if i'm finding the correct ones.


----------



## Howard (Oct 13, 2011)

Funny you ask, on my way to NT today because my outer bearing fell apart as well as the inner ring on hub that holds the end cap on. Not sure wht the heck happened, only about 1000 miles on it. I will try and get some item #s for you.


----------



## Jay415 (Oct 16, 2011)

Did you buy that paddle holder or make it?


----------



## Howard (Oct 18, 2011)

> Did you buy that paddle holder or make it?



Bought it at BPS. I was going to make one but this one I like so much. Comes out really easy, I would recommend it. I thinking it was around $9


----------



## Jay415 (Oct 18, 2011)

Thanks. I like that one. I want to do the same.


----------



## c-ramey (Oct 27, 2011)

What is the frame made out of for your front battery? It looks like part aluminum angle and some other type of "U", but it's brown. I can't tell what it is.


----------



## Howard (Oct 28, 2011)

> What is the frame made out of for your front battery? It looks like part aluminum angle and some other type of "U", but it's brown. I can't tell what it is.



The front storage compartment was made from the aluminum frame off a old sliding glass door. (free aluminum)  I had also taken some extrusion from a couple old storm doors for this mod.


----------

