# ** SeaArk 1652 Bass Boat Conversion - "The Dirty Oar" **



## ATW (Apr 26, 2016)

Hello all,

Longtime lurker and fan of the site. My project has taken me over 3 years to get where I am now (90% done) but I probably could've done it in a year had I busted my rear on it--but life happens and things get unfairly tossed on the back burner...like boats.

Me: 28 year old marketing manager and hot rod/muscle car & outdoors fanatic in SE Wisconsin, bought my first house in December with 3 car workshop, live-in girlfriend and a 6 year old son.

I purchased a 2001 Bass Tracker 'Pro Crappie' in the summer of 2012 with my previous girlfriend--my first real boat (aside from various puddle jumper jons I owned as a teen). It was ready to fish--but I never even launched it because we ended up breaking up shortly after and we sold it to avoid the argument over who gets what. But this isn't a tale about a Tracker...

I began my boat search again the following summer since I was single and ready to mingle. I've always been a fan of aluminum boats/bass boats because of the areas I fish and the risk of gouging glass fishing rigs. My father owned a 96 Skeeter ZX200 with a 200hp OMC that I fished in during my youth (sweet). Great boat for anything really, but semi-risky in the rivers I preferred to fish.

Browsing Craigslist in the summer of 2013, I found a local ad for a 'Sea Ark 1652 (all-welded hull), 40hp motor'. Very basic ad and no pictures. Had an asking price of $1600 for it. I could tell the person wasn't too e-mail/Craigslist savvy so I made an appt to check it out.

To make this long story short, this gentleman inherited this boat from his father-- the boat is a 1997 Sea Ark MV 1652, steering console, CMC Power Trim, 1974ish 40hp Evinrude, tilt trailer. I ended up getting the whole deal for $1200. 8) 
It was carpeted from top to bottom with wood floors and some wood deck work and the trailer needed work. But the boat was last registered in 1999 so it was used only two summers its entire life--and it was in perfect cosmetic shape--not a dent. Here are some pics of when I first saw it. Don't get me wrong-- it was a hodge podge of wiring and rats nest but a diamond in the rough, none the less. Especially with a fully working power trim unit.

My plans are a fully functional, bass type boat with ZERO WOOD. All aluminum everything and everywhere.


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## ATW (Apr 26, 2016)

First thing I did was get the trailer up to snuff since it was a hairy first drive home-- flat tires and rotten hubs. The trailer needed paint, wiring, wheels, --pretty much everything.

I lost a TON of build pictures when I switched phones so bear with me. 

I took the boat off the trailer and sanded the trailer down to bare metal. I primed it, and coated in a black bedliner. Sand blasted and painted all the roller brackets. The tongue on the trailer is extra wide for walking down. It had a 1 7/8 ball so I replaced with a new 2" coupler and redid the wiring. Added LED tail lights and side lights. Bought new 5 bolt hubs and a found some new rims and tires on Craigslist for cheap. Redid the bow stop, added a new winch and safety chain and a spare tire holder. Only need to add the home-made guide on using a ladder stabilizer and PVC pipe (thanks, TinBoats!)

Trailer is a now a million bucks!


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## ATW (Apr 26, 2016)

Also that summer, I decided to see if I could power the boat with a newer motor-- the 70s Evinrude wasn't jiving with me. I ended up finding a 1992 Johnson 25 HP with another aluminum jon boat steering console for $500. I sold the 40 HP Evinrude that was on my boat originally for $500. I then sold the extra steering console for $100 so I made $100 said and done-- and I had a nicer motor that should sufficiently pull this boat.


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## ATW (Apr 26, 2016)

The only other thing I did that summer was gut the boat of the wood and carpeting. The wood on some spots was spongy and gnarly and I wanted a clean slate.

Here it is empty and full of carpet glue residue:


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## ATW (Apr 26, 2016)

I actually didn't even work on the boat again until the summer of 2015. I spent the summer of 2014 collecting parts and things I needed to really hammer it out.

I was fortunate enough to live near a metal recycling center that WAS open to the public at the time-- and it was like man's playground. I stopped a few times a week and gathered some nice 1/8" aluminum signs/panels/angle/tube/whatever to make the decks and floors for this boat. It cost me less than $100 for all. The big sheet in the photo is 13 feet long!

Sadly, they changed owners and it is now closed to the public.

I also ordered an aluminum trolling motor bracket and aluminum jon boat throttle control bracket on eBay ($20)


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## ATW (Apr 26, 2016)

I really wanted a livewell for this boat and I was trying to utilize one that I could put length-wise in front of the back bench so it acted as a seat support and also sat lower than the back bench. Craigslist score once again-- found a guy who bought a smashed up Lund for the motor and was selling hatches and a plastic livewell with hoses and plumbing and pumps-- all for $80. It was about 48" long, 13" inches deep and 10" tall--perfect for my needs!


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## ATW (Apr 26, 2016)

My ex's brother-in-law was parting out a boat so I bought a fuel tank, fuel hose, Minn Kota 30lb bow mount trolling motor, transom saver, battery, and Humminbird fish finder for $100. 
I sold the trolling motor shortly after for $150 so I was up $50 on this splurge.


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## ATW (Apr 26, 2016)

Since I was planning on adding that livewell as my seating area, this forced me to move the console more toward the front of the boat so the steering cable and throttle controls were now too short-- had to buy replacements of the correct length.


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## ATW (Apr 26, 2016)

I spent ALOT of time researching seats and what not. Temptress Navistyle would've been nice.. but.. EXPENSIVE. I found a set of 3 Springfield Mossy Oak Duck Blind camo seats on eBay for $115 and free shipping. I'm sure they'll fade like they all do.. whatever--cheap enough.
I bought the matching casting seat from Sportsman's Guide for $20. 
My Dad had a box of boat stuff which included the bases and poles = Freebie.


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## ATW (Apr 26, 2016)

I also started acquiring a ton of electrical crap:

-Six gang switch panel
-Marine fuse block
-Livewell timer
-Auto/Manual Bilge Switch
-new Power Trim Switch
-Volt meter panel & Cig lighter port
-Tinned wiring and terminals
-Heat tubing
-Marine radio and speakers with aux port and USB
-Front and rear nav light sockets
-Trolling motor male and female connector


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## ATW (Apr 26, 2016)

First order of business was to assemble the rear deck. The areas next to the open space sat about 3/4" lower than the bench with the carpet glue on it. The plan was to even it out for even walking. The bench also had a bow in it so it held water so it needed to be leveled a bit too before I completely covered it in new aluminum. You can also the location of my new livewell where the seat will sit on top of.






I cut and measured braces and bracket to level the area out before applying the aluminum sheets. I also stripped the carpet and cut down one the aluminum hatches I bought with the livewell to cover the fuel tank and battery area in the back. Mocked up one of the pedastal mounts too.


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## ATW (Apr 26, 2016)

Started to mount the floor supports for the flat floor-- riveted 2" angle brackets from corner to corner. Also mocked up the mounting for the livewell. The white fitting on the side of the livewell is my overflow (1.5") The fill is on the opposite side (3/4). The seats will bolt directly to the hatches and fold up with the hatches to access the livewell. I also cut the aluminum sheets for the back decking so it is seamless.






I used a jig saw and a circular saw with a metal cutting blade for 99% of my cuts. I bought a cheap SkilSaw from a swap meet for $5 since I didn't want to cut metal with my nice Milwaukee!


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## ATW (Apr 26, 2016)

Started to mock up the front deck-- I extended the deck out to the 3rd set of ribs on the boat which made the deck exactly 7 feet long. I planned on putting two pedestal mounts on the front so I could fish up there with my 6 year old--he approves!











I used 2" angle in 1/8 and 1/4" for the front deck. I recovered the original front deck because it was dented and bowed and held water like a bird bath.
I spaced out my bracing so I could add hatches to the tops for storage. The trolling motor battery and a dual bank charger will also be housed underneath the boat here too.






Before and after of the front deck.


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## ATW (Apr 26, 2016)

Ordered a custom decal for the Dirty Oar!






You can also see my livewell intake screen in the rear.

Finished the plumbing of the livewell. Always fun drilling large holes in the side of your boat! Also put foam in the floor and covered it in sheet metal. The livewell has a plug in the bottom and drains in the bilge when you pull the plug. It intakes from the right hand side via 3/4" hose and overflows/maintains level via the white 1.5" fitting on the left. In all likelihood, I don't know how often I'll use it so hopefully it all works as designed.


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## ATW (Apr 26, 2016)

Scored a Minn Kota All Terrain 55 for $225 in spring 2015. I think I am going to sell it since it is a 52" shaft and might be too long for this unit.


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## ATW (Apr 26, 2016)

In July of 2015, I was finishing up the sheet metal when my back gave out. I was sidelined for months and ended up having to have back surgery in September 2015. I believe I agitated from jumping in and out of the boat to get parts/tools all the time. This really put a damper on the build until this spring again.  

I'm happy to report that I'm now about 90% back to normal. So, when I thought I would have this boat done for less <$2000, I was wrong-- tack on around $80,000 in medical bills. I now own an olive drab yacht.


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## ATW (Apr 26, 2016)

Scored a pair of blemish Tempress hatches for $29 each on eBay. Good help is also hard to find these days...


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## ATW (Apr 26, 2016)

Finished up the sheet metal work this spring-- fully contained the livewell and boxed it all up. Added a drain hole in the floor to help keep the carpet dry. You can see the black livewell fill hose on the left side of the photo.

Started running some wires from the front lights and speakers, too.


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## ATW (Apr 26, 2016)

Did some final touches the front-- cut holes for the hatches, cut holes for speakers, ran wires for the trolling motor and front navigation lights.

And now...

CARPET!

I ordered 20 feet of taupe carpet from Sportsmans Guide-- it was about $80. Will be applying it with WeldWood Contact Cement.






My sig other carefully cutting the pieces. A chalk line works well for straight lines on this.


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## ATW (Apr 26, 2016)

Applying carpet directly to existing aluminum sheet is an interesting job-- Its a lot less forgiving than wrapping wood and then bolting it into place.

Front deck is done aside from trimming the edges. Turned out nice all things considered. Mounted the hatches and pedastals and speakers. I also bought a manual adjustable pole for the casting seat.






Now onto the rest.. (the aluminum hatches on the livewell and battery/fuel tank area are just sitting loose. Doing those seperate.


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## ATW (Apr 26, 2016)

Next came the floor...


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## ATW (Apr 26, 2016)

Then the rear deck area. 






Also painted my throttle control bracket and installed that.


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## ATW (Apr 26, 2016)

Then the hatches-- which we could wrap around and make for a nicer install. I had to patch the hole in the hatch that is under the driver seat.


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## ATW (Apr 26, 2016)

Here's how we're sitting as of last night:


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## ATW (Apr 26, 2016)

I picked up some rubber half round trim pieces on eBay for $15 for 20 foot. Should make the cut carpet edge look nice and clean when I put it on.






That's all for now.. I'll update as I go. Feel free to ask any questions!


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## ATW (May 4, 2016)

Been busting my rump on this lately
Plan on launching the boat tomorrow if all goes as planned. I'll post my updated progress tomorrow.

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## perchjerker (May 4, 2016)

looking really good bud!


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## bamalivin (May 4, 2016)

If you didn't already know, your engine can be somewhat easily modified to a 35 hp. If you, like myself find yourself in need of the extra ponies, that is something to keep in mind. Boat looks great btw! Happy boating!


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## ATW (May 4, 2016)

bamalivin said:


> If you didn't already know, your engine can be somewhat easily modified to a 35 hp. If you, like myself find yourself in need of the extra ponies, that is something to keep in mind. Boat looks great btw! Happy boating!



Thanks all.

I have looked into this-- might consider it down the road. We'll see what kind of performance I get from this boat-- I'm expecting decent results with the power trim!


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## ATW (May 4, 2016)

Bilge pump drain routed underneath the rear corner cap on the port side.


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## ATW (May 4, 2016)

Steering console getting cutouts for switches, radio, etc.. before painting.


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## ATW (May 4, 2016)

The rear seat mount worked out pretty slick-- Before carpeting, I added a 1" square aluminum tube that runs the length of the open hatch in the rear-- this is so I can rivet the rear hatch cover onto it as well as provide some much needed support for the pedestal mount since riveting the hatch and bolting the seats to thin aluminum jon boat sheet metal wasnt happening.

Since I added 1/8" aluminum sheet on top of of the rear seat, I figured toggle bolts would suffice for the front 3 bolts holes of the seat mount and provide enough coverage to support weight. The rear 3 bolts would be through that piece of aluminum square stock I aforementioned and provide the brunt of the stability. I cut 3 3/4" holes for the toggle setup in the middle of the bench.. the toggle nuts are a 5/16-18 thread that I ordered online.






It worked out well. There is some flex in the bench but it's not coming out-- I gave it the ol' earthquake test with my 220lb frame-- best of all, still no wood used.


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## ATW (May 4, 2016)

Painted the upper portion of the console and installed my switches, radio, & fuse panel.






On the right hand side of the console is my six gang switch panel and my power trim switch.

I removed two of the stock switches to install my livewell timer switch and the momentary push button switch for the horn. Wiring was a breeze. I left one switch blank for future additions (probably interior lighting)











On the left side, I have my manual/auto bilge switch and my DC outlet and volt meter. The volt meter is connected to the DC outlet switch on switch panel. Good for checking voltage on occasion to the cranking battery. I might add this to the front deep cycle trolling motor battery since it is quite handy.






On the side, I have a marine stereo. Won this on Ebay for $70 which included the marine antenna and additional AUX jack. Also takes a USB stick. The marine antenna is the black vertical piece sticking out the other side of the console. It works well but the speaker wires that came with the speakers I have are trash-- I ordered new replacement wire this week.






The four bolts on the above picture sticking out of the front of the console is where I mounted my fuse box. I had a tough time finding a decent place that was hidden out of sight. Here is an under shot (disregard the rats nest of wires-- not a final install yet)


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## ATW (May 4, 2016)

I built a riser out of aluminum angle for the fuel tank to sit on in the rear to get off the floor. Everything is a snug fit. Battery, fuel tank, bilge pump, livewell pump, wiring to back, motor controls, and motor wiring. (again, apologize for the cable management!)


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## ATW (May 4, 2016)

As stated in an earlier post, I had Minn Kota All Terrain 55 in a 52" shaft that I bought last year for $225. I've never had this boat in the water but based on research, a 52" shaft is overkill for a foot control in a jon. I ended up selling it to my neighbor for $300 and found a 2015 Minn Kota Edge 45 in a 42" shaft on Craigslist for $275-- I got it for $225. 

I riveted my jon boat trolling motor bracket to the front bow, but not before sanding the edges and contact points down to bare metal as I want to have this welded on eventually. I had a Minn Kota plug and socket for this too.


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## ATW (May 4, 2016)

I have front and rear zamak sockets for the nav and stern lights. Bought a new angled front light and a rear stern light from Academy Sports for $28.


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## ATW (May 4, 2016)

Been doing a lot of research on my motor height. The Sea Ark's transom is 20" but at a reverse angle so from the transom top to the bottom of the boat at a 90-degree angle is shorter. My motor was dead even with the bottom of the boat even with the CMC PT-130 trim unit with the clamp adapter. I realized that the CMC unit was mounted on the boat in the lowest position so I brought it up to the other mounting hole which raised the entire unit about an inch. The AV plate on the motor is about 1" higher than the bottom of the boat-- hopefully this will work. I find it hard to believe that you could put a long shaft Evinrude/Johnson right on the 20" transom and have it perform. My motor is a good 3.5-4" higher now and sits about 1" above the hull. Hopefully thats the sweet spot with setback. Can't wait to experiment with it.

And yes, I did bolt this motor to the CMC unit also-- Don't trust your clamps by themselves, people!


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## fl.graderman (May 5, 2016)

I'll be interested to see if this height works out for you... I read about the "rules" for elevating the motor with setback when I was dialing mine in. I also have a jackplate with 4" of setback and I started out at about 3/4" above the keel with the AV plate. Long story short, I'm getting the highest speeds and best performance now and my AV plate is about 1/2" below the keel. 
Any higher and it blows out in turns. It may be different in your case...I'll be following...

2015 Tracker Grizzly 1448 MVX 
1996 Evinrude 25hp 3 cylinder looper


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## ATW (May 5, 2016)

fl.graderman said:


> I'll be interested to see if this height works out for you... I read about the "rules" for elevating the motor with setback when I was dialing mine in. I also have a jackplate with 4" of setback and I started out at about 3/4" above the keel with the AV plate. Long story short, I'm getting the highest speeds and best performance now and my AV plate is about 1/2" below the keel.
> Any higher and it blows out in turns. It may be different in your case...I'll be following...
> 
> 2015 Tracker Grizzly 1448 MVX
> 1996 Evinrude 25hp 3 cylinder looper



I believe each boat is its own beast so the "rules" for the height really don't apply. The physics and process make sense, but there's a lot to take into consideration--hull shape, boat weight, weight distribution, trim, prop, etc.. Hard to come up with a solid equation for the correct setting. I hope I don't have to go 'up' on my motor because I don't want to drill new holes for the outboard mounting on the CMC unit-- The clamp adapter works ok for small motors on CMC PT-130 but the hole locations on a 20-35 HP OMC suck with it-- I had to drill through 1.5" of solid aluminum for the mounts. :shock:


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## ATW (May 7, 2016)

Launched the boat on Thursday after work. It ran like crap. Died under load and wouldn't get on plane. I picked up a new connector for the fuel line since it leaked when you squeezed the bulb. Also noticed a water leak in the back of the motor by the spark plug--water jacket gasket is torn. It also leaks a little fuel at the primer solenoid valve. Ordered a carb rebuild kit and gaskets to repair everything. Hope to retry it by next weekend with new parts and a clean carb.

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## ATW (May 14, 2016)

Been travelling around the US the past week for work so the boat was being neglected. 

As stated earlier, there were some things that needed to be done to the motor since its maiden voyage was a bust.

1.) Had a good leak at the back of the block by the top spark plug hole.
2.) Had a fuel leak at the primer solenoid valve
2.) Motor wouldn't go under load.

Motor seemed to run okay on the muffs but wasn't great. I bought a new compression tester and spark plug tester.

Cold compression test yielded 125# and 121# = I'll call that a pass.
Had nice blue spark jumping 7/16" gap with the tester on both cylinders = pass.

All evidence pointed toward a carb rebuid/cleaning.

Bought a complete carb gasket kit. Tore the carb apart and let it soak in Pine-Sol overnight. Yes.. Pine-sol. (Google it!)

While the carb was soaking, I took apart the water jacket. Can you see where my water leak was? :lol: 







Put in a new thermostat while it was apart-- old gasket and new!






My fuel primer solenoid was leaking gas when activated. You can see the crack in the red plastic valve. Replaced it with a new kit.







P.S. If you don't own a OEM Service Manual, get one. I found one on ebay for my year for $20 and it's been amazing.


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## ATW (May 14, 2016)

Let the carb soak in Pine-sol all night and cleaned it out this morning. I installed it and did some minor throttle linkage adjusting per the OMC manual.
Reinstalled everything and put the muffs on it and the boat ran considerably better on the muffs. One bump of the primer switch when cold and you can barely bump the key when warm and she fires. 
I was also able to throttle up a bit on the muffs (it would die before this.) Fuel leak was fixed and no more water leak in the back of the motor.

Today's forecast in southern Wis.






I was too anxious to NOT launch the boat today!

The boat ran BEAUTIFULLY. Topped out at 27mph with a 10x11 aluminum prop. I think it will do better with less wind and me playing a bit more with the trim/tilt heights. But it ran great, idled great, felt great. Here is a video of the cruise. It was BRISK out!

[youtube]v8MV8TEU4UE[/youtube]


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## ATW (May 28, 2016)

Have't done a hell of a lot to the boat. Been enjoying it mostly with my boy and G/F.











I did get the rear fish finder rigged up. Made a transducer bracket so I didn't have to put holes in the transom below the water line-- haven't used it yet but should work in theory.











Added another decal to match the back of the boat.


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## ATW (May 29, 2016)

First game fish in the tinny!






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## ATW (Jul 6, 2016)

Haven't done a heck of a lot to the rig-- just been enjoying it. However, I did have a lousy of time getting it to start when cold. My JohnnyRude has primer solenoid that I could audibly hear clicking when I engaged it with the key so I figured all was well. Did some investigating last night as I was sick of launching the boat and struggling to get it fired for 5 minutes while trying to keep the boat from crashing into the docks/shore, etc. I ended up having a pinched line under the starter from the solenoid to the top of the carb. I replaced the line entirely as the old fuel line had hardened. I had it on muffs on last night after the repair and it fired up on the first crank so that's promising.. Looking forward to the real world test this week!


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## Bowhunter1661 (Jul 8, 2016)

Love the boat man. Nearly identical to mine aside for make and the fact I don't have a console. That will all change come next year though. I hate tiller steer. I nearly cut my legs off last year when my motor ripped out of my hand and I went over board. Lesson learned, always wear your kill switch and life jacket.


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## ATW (Aug 19, 2016)

Thanks for the comments-- I 2nd about the kill switch and disliking tiller steer. I grew up with my Dad owning bass boats or console steered boats so I like them better. I try and make it a habit to wear the killswitch.

Update: The boat has been running really well since the fuel line ordeal. Starts on the 1st or 2nd crank when cold now. I ordered a set of guide posts for the trailer just to keep it centered on one lousy boat launch I often use. Haven't done much to the boat aside from buy a 2nd pedestal seat. Just been fishing and boating with the fam!


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## hercload (Aug 19, 2016)

Awesome build!


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## nowgrn4 (Aug 22, 2016)

Nice Rig!

Take this old timers advice. Have a 8"-10" print made of this picture.





In 25 years when your bouncing your grand kids off your knee it will be one of your most prized possessions.


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## RStewart (Sep 28, 2016)

Nice build. Glad you're getting to enjoy it with the family. Thanks for sharing it with us.


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## bobberboy (Sep 29, 2016)

ATW said:


> Thanks for the comments-- I 2nd about the kill switch and disliking tiller steer. I grew up with my Dad owning bass boats or console steered boats so I like them better. I try and make it a habit to wear the killswitch.



The killswitch thing is hard. It's so easy to develop bad habits and so hard to break them. I've been trying hard to wear the killswitch and life jacket while under way. Accidents are by definition unplanned so thinking you'll slip on the life jacket or killswitch if necessary isn't gonna work.


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## ATW (Feb 19, 2017)

Well, pretty major update to the Dirty Oar today-- a repower.

I removed the 1991 25 HP Johnson and CMC Power Trim unit.. and traded it plus $250 for a 2003 Mercury 25 4 Stroke. I think I did okay on the deal! Need to get the right length shift and throttle cables and she's ready to rip for the year!








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## ATW (Mar 6, 2017)

Update: ordered new throttle/shift cables for the new motor. The ones on the control box that came with it were 14 foot... I need 10 or 11 foot. I found a deal on ebay for a used set of 10 footers for $27.. According to teleflex, I should be using 11 or 12ft but I used their standard equation on my last motor and found it to be too long. 10ft leaves a smaller loop at the motor which I like and does not bind. 

I ordered a new steering arm for the motor and steering cable.. Another ebay find for $15. I believe the one from my Johnson would have worked but the buyer of my motor needed one so I opted to include it.






I ordered a new Hummingbird 698CI fish finder this evening. It has side imaging, down imaging, and gps. Cant wait to install it and super pumped about the price I paid. I have a Hummingbird 525 on the boat now that I got for next-to-nothing. Gander has the 698 on clearance for $349.. With a 15% off code and gift card, I paid $278 plus I get $150 in Gander rebates. I would have liked to rock the Helix series on the boat but for a net price of less than $130 on the 698CI for GPS, DI, and SI, I will sacrifice the screen size and a few other doodads on the savings for this tinny. I might move the 525 to the bow or sell it and do something better up front.







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## ATW (Mar 20, 2017)

Dismounted the old 'bird Friday night and put the new 698CI on with a RAM mount. Pretty simple set-up and nice little unit.
Old: 





New: 





Took the boat out to test the 25HP 4 stroke Merc and the Humminbird--both ran very well. Hit a MAX of 25MPH with me, an 8 year old boy, and a 40lb dog. I expect about 27MPH by myself and my gear-- same as my old Johnson 25. Love the quietness and easy starting of this Merc.

Short video:
https://gdurl.com/Z0_2


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## RStewart (Mar 26, 2017)

Always nice to play with new toys. Have you noticed any difference in the motors, performance or mileage?


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## ATW (Mar 26, 2017)

RStewart said:


> Always nice to play with new toys. Have you noticed any difference in the motors, performance or mileage?


I haven't had it out enough to fully tell. Speed seems to be very comparable but it does have less holeshot than the 2 stroke did. I do love the whisper-quiet idle and 1mph trolling speed of this 4 stroke, though. 

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## ATW (Apr 9, 2017)

Did some work today since temps were in the 70s in Wisconsin. Finally got all the edge trim on the carpet. Looks a ton better than the bare carpet edge. 

I also put on the ladder stabilizer guide posts.. which work quite well for windy days at the launch











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## ATW (Aug 25, 2017)

My bow mount Minn Kota fried a wire from the pedal to the motor last week. Only would work on high speed so I figured the resistor was shot as well. Found the culprit to be a loose terminal connection. A shame..

However, I picked up a preowned Minn Kota All Terrain 55 to replace it for $125. 10lb more thrust than the Edge was.


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