# Old Guy Comfort Boat



## gah319 (Dec 17, 2013)

Well I cannot say that this is my first boat rebuild. It is my first time posting what I am doing and giving a running commentary on what I am thinking. The boat I have is 14 feet long by 5 feet 8 inches wide, the floor at the widest point is 49 inches. Made by the Quachita boat company Arkadelphia, AK in 1974. As much as I would like to blame the previous owner on the old build it does not help as I have had this boat for 25+ years. The first build on this was done with 2x3’s and 3/4” green treated plywood. The decks were covered in green AstroTurf. With HS and College football games, camping with the Scouts, excessive work hours, and tending the livestock the boat was just sitting in the back yard for a number of years. The last registration sticker to have made it on the boat was for 2007. Needless to say the decking finally rotted away.

So for the new build: framework done with 1.5” aluminum angle, ¾” BC plywood for top decks, 3/8” ply for the floors under the decking. I am going to call this the Old Guy Comfort Boat. I want the seats to be based at 16 inches. This allows for easier standing after being seated for a while. The bow and stern will both be decked. Stern deck will only be 36” while the bow deck will be about 6 foot. I want to put in rod storage on both sides along with storage under both decks. Seating will be for 2 people, but more often than not it will just be me.

Power for this is provided by a 9.9 Mercury I bought 25 years ago. It has always started on the first or second pull. The TM that I had, was a bow mounted Minn-Kota. I have rebuilt the foot pedal a couple of times and it is now past repair. So the new TM is a Minn-Kota power drive with the i-pilot built in. I did say I was going for “Old Guy Comfort”. 

Current progress is: Boat is in the garage (minor miracle), tires have been replaced on the trailer, everything has been stripped out of the inside of the boat, new transom has been glued and cut. Currently working on dry fitting the aluminum framing. This is going to be a slow build as all of the major tools are in the basement. So measure twice, cut long, fit and recut. Oh and the outside air temp has not been over 30 degrees in about 3 weeks. Going to be a long time before I can paint so not even thinking of sanding. Leak test will not work as it would just turn to ice.

Will post some pictures once I get that figured out.


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## BrazosDon (Dec 17, 2013)

So, welcome aboard mate. Good to have you aboard. Where do you hale from? I'm from Dallas/fort Worth area. Sounds like we have the same boat basic. I have an Alumacraft 14X48 MV with a '57 Evinrude 18hp motor. Have not made any mods on it yet but I have been collecting part and material for it. I see that you are going to use aluminum bracing on your deck extension, same as I. I will be looking forward to you post of your boat. Make it soon. BrazosDon, later.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Dec 18, 2013)

The plywood you want is BCX. The X means it's exterior rated, Just don't use pressure treated wood.


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## Gators5220 (Dec 19, 2013)

Welcome to Tin Boats bud.


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## dieselfixer (Dec 19, 2013)

Welcome to Tin Boats. Everyone is looking forward to pics of your build.


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## gah319 (Dec 19, 2013)

A few pictures of what I have to work with.


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## BrazosDon (Dec 19, 2013)

Question for lckstckn2smknbrls, is that bcx corrosive or not on aluminum?


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## gillhunter (Dec 19, 2013)

Welcome. I'm an old guy also. I understand about that "standing up thing" :LOL2: :LOL2: 

Looking forward to seeing your project. I have a 1648 with a 9.9.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Dec 19, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=336832#p336832 said:


> BrazosDon » Thu Dec 19, 2013 10:49 am[/url]"]Question for lckstckn2smknbrls, is that bcx corrosive or not on aluminum?


It is not. 
Pressure treated wood uses copper in the process. It is the copper in the wood that reacts with the aluminum.


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## Ringo Steele (Dec 20, 2013)

Looking forward to your progress. I too have a Ouachita, a 16DSV semi-vee. Mine was inherited from my uncle when he passed many years ago. If I have my way, it will get passed down to my daughter when I go. I had to do a lot of work to mine too, as it had been in my uncle's back yard for many years before he passed. You can see mine in my signature link if you wish. 8)


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## gah319 (Dec 22, 2013)

So over the last week I have gotten the rear bench frame work built. Making the measurements and then constructing in the basement. First made the front cross member and then the second. Placed both in the boat and measured for the distance between the two. Connected the two end connectors to the front section. Placed both back in the boat and riveted the second section section when I was happy with the fit. Take it all back in and finish. The plywood in the pictures are just for the mockup. The storage area will have a opening of 14x16. I think I will make the lid so that it opens from the seat to the side instead of front to back. The area under the seat I plan on filling with flotation. Full set of the pictures can be seen at the link below.


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## gah319 (Dec 22, 2013)

Working with the aluminum is a learning experiance. First make sure that you have a "good sharp high tooth count blade". The blade I started with has been on the chop saw for years. I make about 6 or 7 cuts with no problems. Then all of a sudden the saw with attached bench jumped up about five inches. The blade lost about 5 carbide teeth and then bent and stopped very suddenly. :? I have hit my thumb with a hammer before, this time it was hit by the angle alum. and the saw base from the bottom instead of from the thumb-nail side. #-o The chop saw now has a funny sound when spinning, think I bent the shaft. So this saw goes out to the barn and will be used to cut the scrap wood out there. The new chop saw has a hold down clamp so I don't have to hold on to anything but the saw handle. [-o< 

I am using 1/8 inch thick alum. The two cross members for the lid to sit on are now 1/4 inch below the height of the framework the top sits on. Should I add another 1/4 flat piece to bring the frames all to the same height? How about the pieces that are 1/8 inch low. Add a spacer for them also? With wood I would have used a mortise to connect them.


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## rscottp (Dec 22, 2013)

Your build is looking good so far, keep the pics coming!


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## gah319 (Feb 11, 2014)

This weather is just killing me. Step out in the garage and there the boat sits. Look at the thermometer and it is never above 20, usually around zero. Bundled up on Saturday and spent about 2 hours sanding. As cold as it is sanding is about all I can do and two hours was all I could handle of the cold. Still hope to have the boat useable by the time the Crappies start biting. Might not be complete, but should be able to float and fish.


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## Captain Ahab (Feb 11, 2014)

What do you plan to use for flotation.

I could never decide so I skipped that part [-X 


Got a big ass pump instead


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## mfbear (Feb 12, 2014)

I picked up a set of five 7" x 1/16 thick masonry cutoff wheels at Harbor Freight for 8 bucks that I used to cut aluminum. They did not fit the arbor on my cutoff saw but did fit and work well on the table saw. As for the hatch opening I would make sure all four sides are the same height for the lid to fit properly.


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## gah319 (Feb 12, 2014)

For flotation I am planning on using the pink foam board between all of the floor struts under the plywood sheeting. This will be about the same square footage as one of the benches I took out. Then under the two new benches I am planning on putting the same material under the seat cavity. This will then give me the same as what I took out. The foam is light weight so where ever I can find dead air space that cannot be used for storage I plan on putting in the foam. If for some reason the boat fills full of water I would rather not have to rely on a pump to keep me afloat.


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## gah319 (Mar 9, 2014)

:lol: About time. Temperature is above freezing. Got in about 5 hours of sanding this weekend. Basic framework is done and have it back in the basement to finish putting spacers on to level the hatch openings. All the materials screws, plywood, carpet, topside paint, electronics... are in the garage or basement. Bottom paint is on order from wetlander. Hope by first of may to be close to done. Since there is about 4 feet of ice I still may be on the water for the crappie spawn.


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## BR1 (Mar 9, 2014)

Welcome! I had that same type boat only mine didn't look that good. The guy I got mine from evidently hit a tree one morning going duck hunting. The front end was bent upward and in. It looked like it had been straightened as best he could with a sledge hammer. It was still a good boat. From your description on what you have planned, sounds like you'll have a great boat when you are finished!


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## gah319 (Apr 19, 2014)

Finally the destruction of the old is finished  and now I get to start building the new  . All of the paint has been stripped from the outside of the boat. Most all of the deck and bench framing has been built in the basement over the winter and now I can get the wood cut to fit the framework. Then varnish, carpet, and install. So about end of May or mid June I should be out on the water. Complete set of pictures are in my album.


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## typed by ben (Apr 20, 2014)

if i havent said it before, that boat looks really well made. gotta love her in bare metal too. excited to see how this one turns out.


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## gah319 (Apr 20, 2014)

Started the dry fitting of the vertical sections. Leaving about 1/4 inch of room for the carpet. My son was home for the holiday weekend so I got him to hold the bucking bar as I riveted the transom supports. Turned out quite well. Put in the 3/16" rivets that are just filling in the holes from taking out the bench seats. Need to order another set of rivets. There are more holes left since I took out everything that was riveted or screwed in other than the struts. Once I get all the pieces cut then I can start the spar varnish.


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## pitts101 (Apr 22, 2014)

looks great so far


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## bigredxlt (Apr 23, 2014)

Are those new rivets closed end pop rivets or did you buck solid rivets in there?


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## gah319 (Apr 23, 2014)

Those are solid rivets. I bucked them in with a hand held sledge hammer for the bucking bar and the pneumatic chisel. I purchased a 3/16 rivet set from Aircraft Spruce for about $9.00. I turned the air pressure to the chisel down to about 40 psi. Worked great. With all of the old screws and things like oar locks that I pulled out of the side walls my order of 100 rivets ran out fast. Have another order for 100 in with Grainger that should be here in a few days. I am going to fill in all the holes with the solid rivets. When pressed in correctly they will be water tight and not leak so no need to add 5200 to them.

For rivets that need to come out the best way I found is to get a good wood chisel and place it behind the head. Tap it once to get set behind the head and then two good blows and the head shears off. The body can then be just pushed out of the hole. I did a few at first by drilling, but there is a possibility of drilling out the aluminum sheet along with the rivet. Since I started to use the wood chisel I have had no problems taking out rivets.


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## bigredxlt (Apr 24, 2014)

Good to know. Trying to figure out how to plug some screw holes above the water line. Initially I was thinking closed end rivets with 5200, but the solid rivets don't seem to be much more work and more likely a better fix.


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## gah319 (Apr 24, 2014)

Last of the rivets are installed in the skin of the boat. :lol: Now to just finish cutting the decking to allow for the thickness of the carpet. Each layer requires 3/16" clearance.


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## gah319 (Apr 25, 2014)

Worked on getting the back bench top cut out. Marked where the holes are for the seat base and the opening for the storage hatch. Got those cut out. Mounted the riser for the motor and put the motor on to make sure all worked as I wanted. Determined the best place for the cup holder and got that cut out. Last to cut out was the handle for the storage lid. The storage lid will have 3/4" of the aluminum bracket under it so should be good and solid to stand on. Lid is only 14 X 16.

The motor riser now needs the plugs put in to cover the screws that attach to the transom and then finish it off with spar varnish. Considering using 5200 to attach the plates, but not sure I want to make it "that" permanent. Once put on with that it ain't a coming off. Still need to cut out a 1/4" spacer for the back of the riser, just a little bit narrow, but I have enough aluminum here to do that without any problems.

It is suppose to rain all next week so I should be able to get the rest of the bench and lids for the back 2/3's of the boat cut completely out. Hope to get the front deck also finalized in the framework and get it decked. The on the next nice day I can start getting it all painted and varnished.


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## gah319 (May 2, 2014)

The last of the decking has been cut out and fitted. :lol: On the front deck I need to cut out the hatches, fit the seat base and TM quick release mount. Only other hole to be cut that I can think of is for the bow light mount. Once these are done, hopefully tonight, I can get all the wood painted or varnished. Now if the weather would just dry out enough to be able to paint. Will strip everything out of the boat tonight so that I can prime the aluminum and be ready to paint that as well when it drys out.


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## Gators5220 (May 3, 2014)

Nice start, on your "Old Guy Comfort Boat" haha.


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## gah319 (May 14, 2014)

Lower portion of the interior is painted. :lol: The visible area of the interior and the exterior above the water line has the first coat of paint. Have enough for at least 2 more coats and possibly a third. So as soon as the weather warms a bit again, and drys out some I can get the remaining coats on. Once that is finished I will flip it over and do the bottom. Going to use Wetlander for the bottom. Hope to have all the painting done in the next two weeks.

The decking has all been painted, with rustoleum oil based paint, for at least one coat. Want one more coat on the areas that will be carpeted. Hope to have the carpet on the decking this weekend.

Tried to start the motor this weekend. Has spark  , but looks like I will need to get the carb cleaned :? and then hopefully it will run. Think I will replace the water pump also since it has been a number of years since the motor last was started. Changed the lower unit oil and there was no water in it so I don't have those problems.


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## TNtroller (May 14, 2014)

Very nice work indeed. One ? for you, why did you mount rear seat as you did? Have not seen it done that way, and just curious.


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## gah319 (May 14, 2014)

In this boats previous life the original bench seats were still installed. On top of them was 3/4" plywood with the Attwood 3/4" pin seat mounts. That worked very well for me so I decided to use the same system this time. Most all of the lakes near by are idle speed only, the rivers are not real deep. So running at WOT is not something I normally do. I decided that I would prefer the storage space that the bench style design would give over the open floor plan with the larger seat mounts. I will have a seat on both bench areas and a base on the deck that will have a 16 or 24 inch threaded post for when I want to sit at the deck. I plan on using a saddle type seat there for when I am using the fly rod. I find that I can no longer stand as long as I used to so the saddle seat will allow me to rest some while semi-standing. It's hard on the body getting old and I want to use this well into my 60's.


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## gah319 (May 19, 2014)

I have the interior and top coats of paint applied. The white will not show once the decking is in place. This should make it easier to see inside of the storage areas. I have painted the decking with white oil based Rustoleum. This will provide the waterproofing for the exterior grade plywood. All of the decking surface that will be exposed will be covered with Cabelas marine carpet. I am putting in the carpet that is about mid-line in the pricing. 

Going to wait about 3 days before I flip the boat over and mask for the bottom paint. I want to make sure that the top coat is good and solid before I tape it for the next coat. Then I will need to sand the bottom one more time in prep for the paint. So hopefully by the end of the holiday weekend all the painting will be done and I can start putting in the decking. 

I have all of the electronics, wire, and hardware to complete the build. Hope to be on the water by the 1st of June. Beneath the floor decking I have 1.5" pink foam. This is about half of the amount of the white Styrofoam that I took out from below the benches. I have another full sheet to stuff in below the seats and at the bow where the decking gets close to the floor.


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## gah319 (May 20, 2014)

Sent the motor off to the shop. I decided it was quicker to have them get it running again then for me to spend the time on doing it. Have enough to do with getting the bottom painted and the carpet laid on the decking. Would like to be on the water by June 1, which did not leave much time to clean the carb and replace the impeller for the water pump. Should have it back next week.

Tonight I need to build some saw horses to flip the boat onto. Hope to have the bottom primer on by Thursday and the bottom coat on Sat. Decking is all ready to be covered with carpet. Will be off work Thursday thru Tuesday so hope to spend a bit of time getting it finished. Once the bottom coat goes on the instructions are to watch it cure and to do this beer works well. :lol: If I get it painted on Sat then on Monday I can flip it back over and install the decking.

Plan on sanding down and painting the trailer once the boat is off. Hate to have a good looking boat and a trailer that looks like.. :roll: .


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## TNtroller (May 20, 2014)

Very nice and neat work on your boat. Gonna be a nice one, hope you enjoy it for years to come.


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## gah319 (May 22, 2014)

Got the primer coat of Wetlander on this morning. Started with a roller and decided I would rather spray it on. Man does it look good!  The application instructions on line says to let dry completely and that beer works good for this phase. :lol: Trailer looks bad so I have it taken apart. Both fenders are bad so I have ordered new ones. Time to sand it down and repaint. Final coat of Wetlander will go on, on Saturday. Three days to dry, then flip it back over. Then put in the deck, which needs to be carpeted yet. Hope to be on the water by the 1st.


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## gah319 (May 28, 2014)

Woo Hoo =D> All of the painting is done. Rustoleum battleship gray marine paint for the top side and Wetlander in graphite for the bottom. Got the boat off of the saw horses and sitting on the garage floor on a carpet and old sleeping bag. Just a light push on it and the boat wants to spin. The Wetlander is slick. Got all of the framing screwed in and started to carpet the woodwork. Applied the manufacturers logo on both sides. Had an new HIN plate made since the original was impossible to read. Took a bit to find all of the data for the plate, but got enough to have the basics. Placed both on the transom. If the DNR does not like the new plate then they can read the old one...

Just got a call from the Merc dealer. My motor is done and ready to pick up. Carb needed overhauled. That is something I could have done, but figured that would add a week or more to the time before I could use it. Sometimes it is just worth it to have a pro do the work.

Trailer is about done. Got it painted over the weekend and need to carpet one more of the bunks. Then I can put the boat back on. Would like to get it up off the floor. Bending over and kneeling on the concrete gets harder to do every year.


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## Abraham (May 28, 2014)

Looks awesome! Really dig the two tone and the setup. Great work


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## Ringo Steele (May 28, 2014)

Very nice work! Who made the Indian head logos for you? I need some for mine.
Maybe I missed it, but is your motor a long shaft (20")?


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## gah319 (May 29, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=353950#p353950 said:


> Ringo Steele » 28 May 2014, 20:48[/url]"]Very nice work! Who made the Indian head logos for you? I need some for mine.
> Maybe I missed it, but is your motor a long shaft (20")?



Got the decals off of ebay. He will make them in any color you desire.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ouachita-Vintage-Boat-Decal-Die-Cut-Black-2-PAK-FREE-SHIP-Free-Fish-Decal-/191192813476?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item2c83facfa4&vxp=mtr

So on my title the boat is shown as Quachita. When I power washed it I found the Indian head logo with the Ouachita name. I am sure that the title is wrong, but I am not going to try and change it, so I had the HIN plate made with the misspelling. Easier to do that then try to explain it to the DNR on the water. So I sliced off the manufacturer name from the logo and just used the Indian head.

Yes the motor is a long shaft. Did not realize that it was too long until I spent some time here and found out that the cavitation plate should be just about even with the bottom of the boat. Most likely the reason I could never get it to plane out very well. So I made the 3 inch lift. It is stuck on with 6 very long screws, 5200 glue, and the 1/4 inch aluminum plates. I don't think it is going anywhere.


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## gah319 (May 29, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=353945#p353945 said:


> Abraham » 28 May 2014, 20:30[/url]"]Looks awesome! Really dig the two tone and the setup. Great work



Talking to Scott at Wetlander he suggested it was better to have a good color line then try to match the color and be just slightly off. The graphite color up close looks like a black metal flake.

Before I started to paint I got a cheap sprayer at Harbor Freight. Has a 1.4 nozzle. Worked great! Sprayed the white for the interior (below decks), then the gray and finally the graphite. I am going to be hard pressed to go back to a brush. My compressor is just a 14-16 gallon one. To get it to work well I connected it to a 6 gallon air pig with a input regulator set to 60 psi. The I went to a 40 psi regulator and water filter to the gun. Worked very well. I never ran out of pressure for spraying and the compressor could catch up and rest.


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## gah319 (Jun 2, 2014)

Got a lot of the carpeting done this weekend. Have 3 hatches and 2 side panels to glue down yet. Next I need to start running the wiring then I can put the final deck in place. Once it is down access to the very front deck will be limited. Stuffed the areas below the seats with flotation. Will put the last of the flotation below the very front deck. That area is too small for anything else. So far real happy with the way it is turning out. Too much boat sitting in front of the tires. Will move the boat back about 16 inches. This will reduce the amount of tongue weight.


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## richg99 (Jun 2, 2014)

Great build thread. You've done a fine job and explained it very well

Oh, don't worry about "making it through your 60's"....worry more about making it through your 70's. Ha Ha. Rich


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## gah319 (Jun 9, 2014)

Got out on the water Sunday. Only had about 2 hours that I could go, but I did get out and float. Still need to put hinges on a couple of the hatches. Little more front heavy that I care for. Used 3/4" ply for the front deck and 1/2" for the rest. Then there are two batteries up there also. Will move the batteries to the back bench storage area. There is enough room there for both of them. This will also help get me on a even keel when I am the only one in the boat, which might be most of the time. Otherwise when running up river the wife will be on the other bench seat. When we start fishing one of us will use the center seat on the front deck. 

All the holes plugged well. No water in the boat at all. Launching was no problem at all. The boat just slid right off the trailer. Getting back on was a bit of a problem.  Electric motor only lake so could not drive onto the trailer. As I would get it on the trailer the boat wanted to keep sliding back off. The Wetlander paint on the bottom is very slick.

Will get the batteries moved tonight and hope to get on the river in the next day or two depending on the weather. Want to see just how fast it will go.


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## richg99 (Jun 9, 2014)

Hmmmm. Sliding off. I can see that might be a problem if the electric won't push the boat far enough up the carpeted bunks.

I wonder if a couple of feet of rubber non-skid material, (Walmart) screwed onto the bunks, would hold her temporarily?

I had a similar issue with my last boat. I waded in next to the trailer and then used my extended boat hook to grab the forward boat eye hook, and pulled the light-weight boat up the ramps. Holding her with the boat hook, I was able walk in the water and affix the hook and strap.

You will figure something out. regards. Richg99


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## gah319 (Jun 9, 2014)

The electric is on the bow so kind of hard to get it to pull the boat up on to the bunks. The non-skid rubber might be a good idea. Will have have to take a look into that. I was able to walk down the trailer and connect the winch hook. _The ramp area was covered in green sludge._ Will have to drop the boat in the yard and pressure wash the stuff off. Will add some non-skid tape to the top of the trailer for traction. So far I am really happy with how everything has turned out.


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## richg99 (Jun 9, 2014)

Might also help, after you launch, to pull the winch strap half way down the bunk and velcro it there. Then, when the bow is aligned, the strap hook will be in place. Richg99


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## New River Rat (Jun 9, 2014)

I am thoroughly enjoying this build. Great explanations, great photos, craftsmanship showing. Nice!


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## gah319 (Jun 11, 2014)

Just about finished. Only thing left to do is install the lights in the storage areas. Last night I got the batteries moved from the front to inside the back bench storage. Ran new wiring, put the decks back on. Then tried the TM. Dang thing did not work. One of the wires pulled out of the connector. #-o Took the decking off again and redid the connector, then tried the TM before putting the decking back on.

Planning on taking it out tonight on the river to see how well it really runs. Wife has been waiting to get out on it. Will use the boat for a while before I decide if I am going to put in rod holders.

Will take some final pictures this evening and post them tomorrow.


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## gah319 (Jun 12, 2014)

So here are the pictures of the finished product. All the positive connections on the batteries and breaker are covered with liquid electrical tape for insulation. The battery boxes would not fit under the angle aluminum. Not going to win any speed records with just a 9.9 pushing this boat, but most all of the lakes are electric only or either less than 10 hp or idle speed only. Only on the river can I open the throttle up.

I had a lot of fun getting this to where it is. The wife is very happy with how it turned out. She did not want to drive it yesterday, but was thrilled to be fishing out of it.

I will say it is best to double check all the bolts and nuts on the trailer once it has been taken apart. When I got home I found that the bolts holding the winch to the trailer did not have tight nuts. Only one was still on. Did not lose the bolts, but two of three nuts are gone. Replacing with nylon locking nuts tonight.


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## gah319 (Jun 24, 2014)

OK I have now been out a couple of times. The two battery system has a slight flaw in it somewhere. The primary battery is used for the TM. Second battery is for the electronics. Both go to one of the 150 amp battery switches so that if the primary battery runs out I can switch over to the other. This means that the negative side of both are tied together. Apparently there is enough electrical noise on the negative side to cause interference with the locator. Every time the motor moves I get noise on the locator. So do I get a "third" battery just for the locator or get a second switch so that I can isolate the ground from the motor also? I think I am leaning towards the second switch. Cost wise there are about the same switch to small battery.

On another note, I am very happy =D> with the Minn Kota i-pilot TM. Being able to record a track and then play it back is wonderful. Speed can be set in 0.1 mph increments. Catch a fish and want to stop just hit the anchor button and the boat stays in place. Now I can fish and not have to spend a lot of my time messing with the motor. If I was going between a bunch of docks and stucture then maybe a foot controlled unit would be better, but for my use it is perfect. Coming back in to get the trailer I just step off the boat on to the dock. Push the boat back out, once it gets about 20 feet away I set the anchor. Get the truck and trailer, bring the boat back into the dock and then load up. I tried the remote at home and got at least 150 feet away and still could control the motor direction. Not sure what the max distance is for the remote.


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