# Had hoped to avoid this like the plague.



## macawman

Checked compression in my 56 Johnson 10 horse today. Not good. Compression was 40 in the upper cylinder and 35 in the lower. Sounds like a complete power head overhaul is in store. Amazing it would even start, but explains why it would only run at medium to high speed. Guess I can kiss the beer money goodbye for a bit.


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## Weldorthemagnificent

Usually a motor won’t run under 70. The fact that they are close would make me question my compression tester. Automotive testers sometimes don’t work well with small displacement engines. Before you start ripping it down, might want to confirm those numbers. 


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## Shaugh

I agree compression testing is not very reliable unless you’re using top shelf equipment and technique. When you pull the rope do you feel the chunk chunk chunk of compression?

Did you get the carb sorted out?


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## macawman

I can say with absolute certainly that it sure doesn't feel like low compression when you pull on the starter cord. I'm winded after 5-6 pulls. The is a thump-thump-thump as you pull on the starter cord and a definite difference when pulling the start with plugs in and plugs out. A friend of mine who has a manual start Johnson 20 horse tried it and said the compression felt good to him. Just purchased the compression gauge today, but that doesn't mean it's accurate.

The carb situation is improved, but still a work in progress.


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## Shaugh

Ok so if you feel that resistance you're probably ok.  I think you just need to figure what's going on with the fuel system.

I'm only about an hour north of you on 65. If you want to bring it here I bet we could figure it out.


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## Pappy

Pretty unscientific way to determine compression. :roll: 
How about you take your compression gauge back and get another one and see what the number is. 
Once installed, pull the engine through a few times until the gauge stabilizes at the highest number it will register.
The faster you pull the rope the better then number also. See what you can get out of it and let us know. 
What fuel/oil ratio are you running in that engine by the way?


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## macawman

Fuel oil ratio is 24:1.


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## Pappy

macawman said:


> Fuel oil ratio is 24:1.



Good man! 
Was scared Billy Bob and Bubba, the boat ramp Gurus had gotten to you! :beer:


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## Weldorthemagnificent

Compression is best taken on a warm engine which isn’t always possible. Most compression gauges are automotive and even the cheap ones are pretty accurate on most engines. My personal experience has been that once you get to 100cc or less per hole, they start to read under. Especially on piston port 2 strokes (I fiddle with chainsaws fairly regularly) . A little mix squirted into the cyl will help seal the rings and pull it over like a madman. The number isn’t as important as consistent numbers between the cyls. 


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## Shaugh

56 engines take 16:1. You can use 24:1 but for a motor that’s been sitting you should probably start out using 16. As long as you have minimal compression sufficient to get it started you really don’t need to worry about compression yet. 

Get it going and let it run for a while then check the compression. The running will give the cylinders and rings time to reseat and break up any rust and carbon that might causing sticking rings etc.


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## timsmcm

Have you done a carbon clean? If you have not you won't get a good compression reading. I have had motors go up more than 40 points after a good over nite soak with seafoam. Also you will not get a full reading unless the carb throttle and choke lever are wide open.


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## Pappy

timsmcm said:


> Have you done a carbon clean? If you have not you won't get a good compression reading. I have had motors go up more than 40 points after a good over nite soak with seafoam. Also you will not get a full reading unless the carb throttle and choke lever are wide open.



There is absolutely NO NEED to open the throttle blades when checking compression. Not written anywhere in the books nor is it needed. "Wive's Tale"


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## Bateman

Looks like the others have my thoughts pretty well covered. De carbon to make sure the rings aren't stuck and I would absolutely find another gauge to use and verify. I have used, on more than one occasion, a gauge that did not read correctly.


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## macawman

Which seafoam should I use for that?


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## macawman

That should be "which seafoam product".


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## Bateman

"seafoam motor treatment" red/white can


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## macawman

Put it in through the spark plugs holes? If so, how much in each cylinder?


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## macawman

Got the seafoam today. Instructions on the can said to put it in through the spark plugs holes and to saturate everything so I put about 2 oz in each cylinder. I'm leaving it to soak overnight.


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## Pappy

Sea Foam is fairly weak compared to one specifically made by Johnson/Evinrude (Engine Tuner) or Mercury or even Yamaha. Hopefully you will see some results with this. If not and you trust your compression gauge it would be well worth pulling the cylinder head, inspect the gasket, pistons, and walls. 
If you still suspect that your compression gauge is faulty then replace it and run your numbers with a replacement gauge or borrow a known good one.


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## macawman

Thanks for the info, Pappy. Pulling the head is next if chemicals don't do the job. 

I hooked my compression gauge up to my air compressor and compared gauge readings to compressor cut-off pressures. Assuming the compressor gauges are accurate, the compression tester reads about 10 psi low. However, adding 10 psi to the motor reading still isn't good.


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## macawman

I think we made some progress with the seafoam soak. After blowing as much of the seafoam out as possible, I reinstalled the plugs and...

1. Motor actually started with the throttle in the start position, and on the third pull yet. Only ran for a few seconds. Never done that before.

2. Motor would start on full throttle and continue running, but with a bit of a stumble.

3. After running at high speed until the motor was warmed up, I was able to throttle back to medium speed and continue running. However, the smoke coming from that thing was unbelievable. I had to shut the motor down because I couldn't see anything. Hope that was due to burning off the seafoam. If it's going to smoke that bad all the time, I'll have tree-huggers storming my house.

4. You should see the crap that washed out into a fresh fill of the test drum.m


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## Pappy

Yes, that was from the treatment. 
Now you need to pull fresh compression numbers.


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## macawman

Did that before installing the plugs. Only a slight improvement. Both cylinders up about 5 psi.


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## Weldorthemagnificent

I would borrow a compression tester from a small engine guy before I tore that motor down. Small displacement piston port engine will use half its oomph overcoming the spring on an automotive gauge. I have a chainsaw that reads 120 on an automotive gauge and 155 on the gauge at the saw shop. 
And yeah, those old engines don’t make you feel very good about your environmental footprint! They smoke pretty bad until warm and the garbage can looks like the Exxon Valdez drive through it!


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## macawman

Checked compression again with a second gauge known to be accurate. Unfortunately, it simply confirmed the readings of the first gauge, do there is definitely a compression issue. Not surprising, I guess, for a 62 year old motor.

At any rate, I'm not going to mess with it any longer. I ordered the gasket sets, rings, valve leafs, leaf stops and a new impeller today for a power head rebuild. Will evaluate pistons, rods and associated bushing/bearings once I get the pistons out. I have not located a source for new connecting rod needle bearings so I'm a bit concerned about that.


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## Stumpalump

I drug home another 15 Evinrude yesterday and it came with a free 1970ish 9.5 johnson. The 9.5 was in good shape and it had good spark. No start so I cleaned the carb. No start and no compression. I soaked the cylinders overnight in sea foam and still no start. Pulled the head and the gasket was good so I kept spraying the pistons and thumped them with a soft leather mallet to free the rings. The sea foam is weak but after a day of soaking and thumping it fires on the first pull. I would have thought the carbon on the piston would whipe right off with all the soaking but not even close.


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## macawman

The chemicals did seem to help as the motor actually starts and runs, but nowhere near where I would want to be out on the river with it.


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## macawman

Sometimes these manuals just confuses the issue. The parts catalog breakdown diagrams shows the connecting rod needle bearings being uncaged, but the diagrams in the maintenance manual show the caged in 2 sets. Anyone know which is correct?


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## Pappy

As I said before....Seafoam is pretty weak. 
At this point why not pull the cylinder head first and see what there is to see and report back.
Pretty sure you will be able to re-use the needles unless the engine was submerged.


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## macawman

I've pulled the head, Pappy, and I'm not really seeing anything one would expect to see in a motor this old. There were no apparent problems with the head gasket. There was no measurable warpage in the head and the head was magnifluxed for cracks. There is the usual ring of carbon around the top of each cylinder above TDC, and a accumulation on the pistons tops. Visible portions of the cylinders have some glazing but no signs of scoring or other physical damage.

My concern about the needle bearings is having them go everywhere if they are not caged when I pull the rod end caps off.


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## Pappy

Do me a favor. With the head off the block I want you to turn the crank until a piston is part way on the down stroke. Take a tool or your fingers and, while holding the crank in position, push the piston down and see if there is a lot of movement.


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## macawman

Raining cats and dogs right now, but I'll do that in the morning when the rain let's up.


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## macawman

Pappy, I tried it several times in both cylinders and at varying positions in the down stroke and could not detect any piston movement in either cylinder.


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## Pappy

Okay. That vintage engine had a bit of a history in the wrist pin area. Pilot holes in the pistons would go oblong allowing the wrist pins to loosen. Thought that may have been a contributor to low compression. 
If rebuilding that is good to know that they are apparently in good shape.


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## macawman

Thanks, Pappy. I'll double check for that when I get the pistons out. 

On a side note, these things didn't come out of the factory with helicoil inserts in the spark plug holes, did they?


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## Pappy

No. And Heli-Coil would not be my first choice as a repair. 
Am thinking you may want to go to www.aomci.org and post in the "webvertise" section that you are in need of a good powerhead. May be cheaper in the long run. Rebuild yours down the road. Fun project if nothing else.


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## macawman

No hurry, Pappy. I want to make this one work
Stubborn that way, I guess.


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## macawman

I've read that the carbon oil seals at the top and bottom of the crankshaft are virtually indestructible and do not require changing unless there is obvious damage
Any truth to that?


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## Pappy

Yep....and you cannot get them anymore as far as I know either so take care of them. If I were you I would look up the number for oversize pistons and bore the block for them instead of just honing and re-ring. Source pistons through ebay or ??.


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## macawman

Thanks for the info, Pappy. 

I thought about the oversized piston option, but evidently you can not bore out the 10 horse cylinders. It also appears from the manual that there are not and never have been oversized pistons for this motor. I am finding used standard sized pistons on eBay, but have no reason to believe they are any better condition then the ones I have. The cylinder bores mic out at exactly factory specs, but the current pistons are .002 over maximum piston-to-cylinder clearance so I would seriously consider boring if I could find the oversized parts.


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## nccatfisher

macawman said:


> Thanks for the info, Pappy.
> 
> I thought about the oversized piston option, but evidently you can not bore out the 10 horse cylinders. It also appears from the manual that there are not and never have been oversized pistons for this motor. I am finding used standard sized pistons on eBay, but have no reason to believe they are any better condition then the ones I have. The cylinder bores mic out at exactly factory specs, but the current pistons are .002 over maximum piston-to-cylinder clearance so I would seriously consider boring if I could find the oversized parts.


 Do you have a dial bore indicator so you can check for being out of round? That will give you a fit. I find it hard to believe rings could being so worn out and the bore wind up being ok.


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## macawman

No, I do not have a bore indicator. I used a digital inside micrometer and took multiple readings at 45 degree intervals. I'm thinking the rings were not that bad. They were all free. Additional, the first ring groove had the expected carbon accumulation. The second had relatively little and the 3rd groove had none at all. That leads me to believe the rings were doing a pretty fair job.


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## nccatfisher

macawman said:


> No, I do not have a bore indicator. I used a digital inside micrometer and took multiple readings at 45 degree intervals. I'm thinking the rings were not that bad. They were all free. Additional, the first ring groove had the expected carbon accumulation. The second had relatively little and the 3rd groove had none at all. That leads me to believe the rings were doing a pretty fair job.


What was the end gap on them then? That should tell quite a bit of the story. If they were not stuck, not a great deal of carbon and the cylinders are within spec. you shouldn't have had such poor compression. There has to be an underlying problem somewhere or a combination of problems of components right at the edge of being right at out of spec to cause it to have such poor compression.


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## Pappy

Search should be on for NOS pistons then. 
That was the main reason I asked about any looseness when the piston was on the down stroke. Now that you have the pistons out what does the wrist pin to bore fit look like? Should not be loose at all. Also, take a cylinder bore measurement on the "bridge" between the exhaust ports then above and below the ports. Curious to see if the material around the ports is bowed out a bit.


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## macawman

Nccatfisher, now that I have the motor torn down, I'm finding mostly gasket and seal issues. There are signs of real problems with both the head and crankcase cover gaskets. The lower crankcase seal is also cracked. It does appear now that some of the parts are at the edge of third tolerances, but I'm pretty sure gaskets are the main issue.


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## macawman

You got me on that one, Pappy. What are "NOS" pistons?

I think we are good on the wrist pins. There is no play whatsoever on them. I'll try to get those measurements today.


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## nccatfisher

macawman said:


> You got me on that one, Pappy. What are "NOS" pistons?
> 
> I think we are good on the wrist pins. There is no play whatsoever on them. I'll try to get those measurements today.


NewOldStock


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## macawman

Thanks for the info, Nccatfisher. 

Was hoping someone would tell me I'm full of crap about oversize bore and pistons are not available for this motor.


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## Pappy

macawman said:


> Was hoping someone would tell me I'm full of crap about oversize bore and pistons are not available for this motor.



Okay, if you insist, you are full of guano! :beer: 
There were indeed .020 oversized pistons available for that engine. 
I just happen to know where two are. PM me and I will talk to you and give you details of where to have the block bored and who and where to get the pistons from. 
Am assuming there are rings with the pistons.


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## macawman

Fantastic! Sometimes times I don't mind at all being proven full of it. Will pm you for details.


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## macawman

Thanks, Pappy.


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## Pappy

macawman said:


> Thanks, Pappy.



You are more than welcome! When you make the trip to get the pistons I think you will be glad you did.


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## macawman

The exhaust tube loading assembly tubes are supposed to be a straight through shot, right? No baffles or such?


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## Pappy

Exhaust tube loading assemblies? What is this part of which you speak?? :roll: 
The exhaust tube is normally a straight through style if that is what you are asking. 
I understand the search is still on for pistons?


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## macawman

That should be exhaust loading tubes assembly. Both tubes are completely or near completely plugged up with carbon. It's packed solid and you can't see daylight thru either tube. They will have to be drilled out before I can do any serious cleaning, but want to make sure there is nothing inside the tubes that drilling would mess up.


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## macawman

It appears to be something similar in function to the upper air Silencer and loading tube assembly on the carb. Moog point now since I went ahead and drilled out the tubes last night. Got it cleaned out, but my .45 call bore brush is toast. Guess I will be going by Larry's today.


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## nccatfisher

macawman said:


> It appears to be something similar in function to the upper air Silencer and loading tube assembly on the carb. Moog point now since I went ahead and drilled out the tubes last night. Got it cleaned out, but my .45 call bore brush is toast. Guess I will be going by Larry's today.


 That may have played a big part in it not running well along with the poor compression. It may have even ran a little longer like it was without the exhaust restrictions.


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## macawman

I'm wondering the same thing. Those tubes being plugged up would be the equivalent of the old "tater up the tail pipe" trick.

Question. If a new piston rings is squared up in the cylinder and the end gap is equal to the manufacturer's minimum gap, what does that say about the cylinder?


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## nccatfisher

macawman said:


> I'm wondering the same thing. Those tubes being plugged up would be the equivalent of the old "tater up the tail pipe" trick.
> 
> Question. If a new piston rings is squared up in the cylinder and the end gap is equal to the manufacturer's minimum gap, what does that say about the cylinder?


 Well, if your measurements I remember are all correct I believe you would be good to go. 

I remember asking if you had a dial bore indicator and you said no, but how did you check for out of roundness? 

I do remember that your pistons were out of spec. Also, you will have to deglaze those walls, you need to be measuring after you do that to get a good final number if you are planning on rebuilding back stock bore. 

I am no expert but it the bore is in specs. I see no reason why not. BUT, I am no expert on these old motors. Pappy may know something or some reason they didn't do well without boring.


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## macawman

I measured the cylinders at 45 degree intervals around the cylinder and at 5 or 6 locations up and down the cylinder. Premitive, I know but the best I have at hand. I feel pretty good about the cylinders, but the pistons are another matter. The cylinder could be good, but the piston worn out because one is steel an the other is aluminum.

Given that the rods, bearings, pins and pistons all have to be changed whether the pistons standard or over sized, the single answer to all the questions is to bore it and be done with it.

Maybe I should see if I can find a machine shop that will measure the block and pistons for me.


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## Pappy

That same source I gave you also has the information for an excellent shop that can and will bore small bore outboards. I have had bore work done by him and it has been excellent.


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## macawman

Yes, he mentioned that.


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## nccatfisher

macawman said:


> I measured the cylinders at 45 degree intervals around the cylinder and at 5 or 6 locations up and down the cylinder. Premitive, I know but the best I have at hand. I feel pretty good about the cylinders, but the pistons are another matter. The cylinder could be good, but the piston worn out because one is steel an the other is aluminum.
> 
> Given that the rods, bearings, pins and pistons all have to be changed whether the pistons standard or over sized, the single answer to all the questions is to bore it and be done with it.
> 
> Maybe I should see if I can find a machine shop that will measure the block and pistons for me.


 I believe I would. If it has mismatched pistons that means it already has been into once. 

If there is any doubt I would bore it, then you are good to go from now on barring some unforeseen failure that could happen to a brand new one. It would be bad to have as much time and new parts in it as you do and find out later it did need just a little more attention that could cause a failure. 

As an ending note, all that carboning up and plugging of exhaust is indicative of either tremendous low speed running, cold temp running or most likely it was already pumping a bunch of fuel/oil by the rings/pistons some way. It had issues, that is why I would check every possibility prior to going back with that block in the shape it is in now.


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## macawman

Yep, someone has been into it before. I've had to laugh at some of the shade tree stuff I've come across.

Just waiting on parts price and availability now.


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## macawman

Just curious. I have read the as little as 5 seconds without water can destroy the pump impeller. I've just replaced the impeller in my motor and having seen the composition of the impeller, it seems that it wouled last quite a bit longer then 5 seconds. Is it legit that it would be destroyed that fast?


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## jethro

macawman said:


> Just curious. I have read the as little as 5 seconds without water can destroy the pump impeller. I've just replaced the impeller in my motor and having seen the composition of the impeller, it seems that it wouled last quite a bit longer then 5 seconds. Is it legit that it would be destroyed that fast?



Certainly a possability.


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## macawman

Thanks for the input, Jethro.


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## Pappy

There is a difference between damaged and destroyed. There are a myriad of variables involved here as well. Was the engine just run in the water then cranked again without? Was it run yesterday and cranked for a few seconds today? Has the engine not been run for a week, weeks, or months then cranked? Each makes a difference in how dry that pump cavity and impeller is. Was the impeller a new impeller or several years old? 
With the old iron there is another variable. Those old pumps seem to have a constant supply of unburned fuel/oil running down the driveshaft and into the pump. Not good for the rubber but it is a lubricant and they seem to put up with it for a long long time. 
Will running an engine out of water for 5 seconds destroy a pump? You decide.


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## macawman

Pappy, your posts are not always what I want to hear, but they are always interesting.

Was just curious about the pump. I'll know in the future that it will need to be checked out if I every accidentally run it without water. Just replaced the impeller, so I think i'm ok there. Current headache is a bent blade on the prop.


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## macawman

Solas props. Good, bad or down right ugly?

Opinions, please.


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## nccatfisher

I have heard plenty of bad, I am running a SS one on my 25 Yamaha right now with absolutely no issues at all. Of course you will get the there is no advantages in SS on a small motor and there isn't in performance. But where I run I would buy a new aluminum one every week or two. I just go right on with SS.


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## GYPSY400

Is this 16:1 oil spec with 1956 oil or 2018 oil? The reason I ask is that oil has come along way and running 40-50:1 shouldn't be an issue with a low revving ( <10000rpm) engine.
Just wondering if these old motors still need such a rich mixture.

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## BillPlayfoot

GYPSY400 said:


> Is this 16:1 oil spec with 1956 oil or 2018 oil? The reason I ask is that oil has come along way and running 40-50:1 shouldn't be an issue with a low revving ( <10000rpm) engine.
> Just wondering if these old motors still need such a rich mixture.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk


I was wondering the same thing. I have a 1956 10 horse Evinrude that I run 50:1 in and have never had a problem. It has been running fine for the last three years. When it does quit I won't repair it since they can be bought for $200 or less around here


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## Pappy

This is just the kind of "boat ramp wisdom" we need to be aware of. 
The older engines can be run on the same original oil ratio (16:1) on todays oil but running them on a 50:1 mixture is killing the engine. These are plain bearings in the engine (non-roller) and old school straight soft aluminum pistons with three rings vs one pressure back and one standard ring. Tons of other changes occurred to allow engines to run successfully on a 50:1 ratio as well. Piston metallurgy (High sil pistons, semi-elliptical, etc) and fit, cooling system changes, cylinder head design changes, etc. Millions and millions were spent developing engines to run and last on lean oil mixtures. 
The simplistic answer that oil is better these days never ceases to amaze me. When a guy doing this blows his engine on a lean mixture you never hear from the guy again. A bit more oil? or a blown powerhead and paddle home? Your choice.
Also, if you really knew what you were talking about as far as oils "these days" go you may realize that today's oils, protection wise, are probably not as good as the original TCW and TCWII oils which had better bright stock and additive packages. Those oils were built to protect engines internally back when the oils did not have to put up with the EPA, but EPA mandates came along and they could not meet some of the new standards so some of the "good stuff" had to go and was replaced. Engine industries had to adapt and change engines internally to be able to run successfully with these new mandates and new lubricants.


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## macawman

I've seen 16:1 mentioned before, but my manual says 24:1.


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## Pappy

Okay, well I guess a bit of clarification needs to happen here as well. 
If your original engine manual says to run your engine on 16:1, 20:1, 24:1, 50:1, etc that is the ratio you want to run. OMC and 100:1 engines are the exception to the rule there as that was found to be not so good during off season storage and was brought back to a 50:1 mixture.


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## macawman

If the book says 24:1, would it hurt to try 16:1?


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## GYPSY400

Pappy said:


> This is just the kind of "boat ramp wisdom" we need to be aware of.
> The older engines can be run on the same original oil ratio (16:1) on todays oil but running them on a 50:1 mixture is killing the engine. These are plain bearings in the engine (non-roller) and old school straight soft aluminum pistons with three rings vs one pressure back and one standard ring. Tons of other changes occurred to allow engines to run successfully on a 50:1 ratio as well. Piston metallurgy (High sil pistons, semi-elliptical, etc) and fit, cooling system changes, cylinder head design changes, etc. Millions and millions were spent developing engines to run and last on lean oil mixtures.
> The simplistic answer that oil is better these days never ceases to amaze me. When a guy doing this blows his engine on a lean mixture you never hear from the guy again. A bit more oil? or a blown powerhead and paddle home? Your choice.
> Also, if you really knew what you were talking about as far as oils "these days" go you may realize that today's oils, protection wise, are probably not as good as the original TCW and TCWII oils which had better bright stock and additive packages. Those oils were built to protect engines internally back when the oils did not have to put up with the EPA, but EPA mandates came along and they could not meet some of the new standards so some of the "good stuff" had to go and was replaced. Engine industries had to adapt and change engines internally to be able to run successfully with these new mandates and new lubricants.


Ok. Thanks for clarifying that.. I didn't know about the plain crank bearings as I've never had a motor that old apart. Also I didn't know about the old oils being better than the new stuff.. one would assume that newer is better as oil testing and technology improve, but your EPA reasoning explains that.
Good thing I asked as I would just run everything 50:1.. and I've been a mechanic ( not small engine) for 20 years.

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## Shaugh

56 was a transitional year for using needle bearings. Some of the smaller motors were still using 16:1 and others were changed to 24:1. Many collectors believe that 10hp motor should be run at 16:1 because of the weak wrist pins.

The reality is that either mixture will work perfectly fine. Old outboard motors are very crude devices... They were designed at a time when people were not very good at following instructions....When I was a kid, my father used to judge the mix by color.... he'd just pour it in till it looked right...Gas quality could also be questionable.....nobody worried about Stabil back then.... because of that, they were engineered to perform within a very wide band of conditions. If it was me I'd just run it at 1 quart per 5 gal tank...... it's easier that way.... and the color will be near perfect...


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## Pappy

The old 7.5hp would be the only one I would continue to run a heavy mix in no matter what. Those engines would lose #1 rod if you looked at them wrong.


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## macawman

Think I'll do the break-in on the rebuild at 24:1 then maybe give 16:1 a try.


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## macawman

Speaking of rebuild, what do you use to pre-lube bearings and such during assembly? Back in my hotrod days, I used STP, but that was big bore V8s and I don't know if that is adequate and appropriate for this motor.


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## macawman

Could use some advise on this. The book says the lube needs to be something that will handle the rigors of initial startup but will dissipate and wash out quickly so the oil can take over. That's definitely not STP.

I have found a source for OEM needle bearing grease. However the book makes frequent referenc to "1000" grease which I can't find. At least not by that name anyway. Anyone have any idea what they are talking about or where to get it?


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## nccatfisher

macawman said:


> Could use some advise on this. The book says the lube needs to be something that will handle the rigors of initial startup but will dissipate and wash out quickly so the oil can take over. That's definitely not STP.
> 
> I have found a source for OEM needle bearing grease. However the book makes frequent referenc to "1000" grease which I can't find. At least not by that name anyway. Anyone have any idea what they are talking about or where to get it?


Most of your auto parts places have a can of oil/lubricant that we used to use for regular and roller tappet cams. We used to use them especially for start up on the old solid lifter cams to they got lubed up even when we pre-lubed them and primed the oil pumps. It was slick as two snails getting it on in a bucket. It you aren't comfortable using a good grade of motor oil prelubing the walls and rings/pistons I would get a can of that and use it.

Disclaimer:
You may have to go to a high performance parts store, these box stores like Advance and Auto Zone most likely will look at you like you have lost your mind when you ask for it.


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## Pappy

Proper needle bearing grease can be ordered by any Evinrude dealer. 
It does go away quickly and is best used straight from a refrigerator! 
I would not worry about using a STP as it will go away faster than you think it will and be providing good lubrication while it does. 
A white grease will probably do a decent job as well and stay on longer than STP will. Trick is to find one that will hold the needles while you assemble the rotating pieces, most will not. That is why I mentioned the correct grease and the fridge!


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## macawman

Thanks all.


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## macawman

The book says to use "1000" sealant to glue the crankcase halves back together again. There is no gasket at that location. Anyone know why a hi-temp silicone sealant or form-a-gasket wouldn't work just as well?


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## Sinkingfast

macawman said:


> The book says to use "1000" sealant to glue the crankcase halves back together again. There is no gasket at that location. Anyone know why a hi-temp silicone sealant or form-a-gasket wouldn't work just as well?



Never use silicone...after all that work and love into the motor don't screw it up with silicone. Ya need Loctite 518 or another manufacture equivalent. They are anaerobic sealants.


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## macawman

Thanks for the advise, Sinkingfast.


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## macawman

Well, thanks to Pappy's contacts, the block is in for machine work. Oversized pistons and updated rods pins and bearings have been rounded up and new prop was ordered today. That pretty well wraps up replacement of 95% of the moving parts in the motor. Unless it is in violation of a board rule, I think I will close out this thread and start a new one when reassembly begins.


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