# Transom savers....a middle ground



## richg99 (Oct 16, 2016)

We've all read both sides of this question (Do you need one?).

I POSTED THIS ON ANOTHER SITE. MY CURRENT SOLUTION IS POSTED ON THE SECOND THREAD.

Transom savers, do you need one or not.......

One side says NO..and, with a transom saver, you are transferring the shock from the road bumps directly to your motor. The transom is plenty strong enough and doesn't need help.

The other side says YES. The motor bounces around on the transom and puts undue strain on the stern of the boat.

Not choosing either side....I have a transom saver that came with my former boat. Sometimes I use it (long trips)...sometimes I do not (short easy trips).

My particular transom saver is made in such a way that one square tube slides inside of the other. 

I am considering one of two modifications. One would be to simply slide a heavy spring inside of the outer tube. That way, the inside tube would effectively "bounce" against the spring and NOT transfer all of the road bumps to the lower unit. 

The other possibility is to add one or two gas shocks on the tubes. Their job would be to do the same thing as the spring but would give both give and take as the trailer hit road bumps.

I actually believe that I saw some sort of configuration with an old fashioned shock absorber on it, many, many years ago.

Any thoughts, comments or suggestions appreciated.

richg99


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## richg99 (Oct 16, 2016)

OK Today I added a 3/4 inch (approximate) compression spring to the riser tube. I intend to lower the motor so that it slightly compresses the spring. 

Next time out, I'll try to observe what is happening as I go over some bumps. Guess there isn't any real way for me to know if the spring helps much. richg99


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## Givey1982 (Oct 16, 2016)

richg99 said:


> OK Today I added a 3/4 inch (approximate) compression spring to the riser tube. I intend to lower the motor so that it slightly compresses the spring.
> 
> Next time out, I'll try to observe what is happening as I go over some bumps. Guess there isn't any real way for me to know if the spring helps much. richg99




I like the idea. I have been trying to decide myself if I should use one or not.


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## richg99 (Oct 16, 2016)

Here is one of the "shock absorbing" transom savers that I found when pursuing this thread on the other site. 

It resembles the one that I had, but mine was without the spring. Since I added the spring, I have high hopes that I will have the best of all worlds. richg99

p.s. sorry for the tiny picture. That is all that the site would let me reference.







https://www.marine-products.com/swivl-eze-shock-absorbing-transom-saver-motor-support-roller-bolt-on-27in-36in-sp-421-rb.html?avad=55963_dc79630f


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## mrdrh99 (Oct 16, 2016)

I don't have one, but I don't think my little 9.9 needs one, I'd imagine with a larger 4 cycle I'd probably air on the side of caution and have one.


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## ADIBOO (Oct 16, 2016)

I'd take my chances with having a transom saver, than not using one. Interested to see if shock absorbing makes a difference.


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## lovedr79 (Oct 17, 2016)

the transom saver i bought from basspro had several rubber "shock absorbers" in the tube.


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## richg99 (Oct 17, 2016)

lovedr79 Sounds good!

richg99


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## DaleH (Oct 17, 2016)

FWIW guys I know that trailer large (24 to 32' or more) center consoles with 1 to 3 OBs prefer the M-Y-Wedge to protect their transoms. It is cushioned.

*M-Y-Wedge:*
https://www.m-ywedge.com/

I can't say it works better than those bar types, but for large boats and larger trailers, it certainly looks simpler to connect! I'll just add my 2-cents here ... as your mileage may vary ... but to me ...

*MORE damage is done to a boat's transom whilst trailering that there EVER is done by running in the water* ... unless you hit something or are a complete idiot when running the boat.

The other week I trailered my rig home. I put a piece of hard rubber (is compressible, but I don't know the durometer) in-between the OB and the OB mounting bracket, 60hp OB and tied the hull down well to the trailer. I kept my speeds reasonable, no > 60mph and in the right lane. And I knew my route and went SLOW over any known bumps or if rough surfaces - to avoid if not eliminate any hard jars at speed.

_... and yet people towing larger boats home were passing me like I was sitting still ... _


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## richg99 (Oct 17, 2016)

From what I've read so far, the wedge devices do a great job of protecting the Motor. Obviously they afford little or no protection to the transom. 

richg99


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## JMichael (Oct 17, 2016)

richg99 said:


> I am considering one of two modifications. One would be to simply slide a heavy spring inside of the outer tube. That way, the inside tube would effectively "bounce" against the spring and NOT transfer all of the road bumps to the lower unit.
> 
> Any thoughts, comments or suggestions appreciated.
> 
> richg99


When I got my current boat, it came with a transom saver. The shaft of the saver was round and about 1.5" diameter. It contained a pretty good size spring that absorbed the bounce every time I hit a bump. The one drawback to the design was not having any means of preventing the two halves from sliding apart. It's a long story, but this actually happened one time. The transom saver was designed to fit over the center roller at the back of the trailer. One ear of the Y that fit over the roller broke off one day, so I modified my trailer (did away with all rollers), and ended up getting a different transom saver and getting rid of the spring loaded model. BTW, even though I've used a transom saver on my boat every since I've owned it, I found hairline cracks on both sides of my boat, right where the transom gusset is welded to the the sides but I'm not positive if those cracks were there when I got the boat or not.


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## richg99 (Oct 17, 2016)

I thought about the separation issue.

I intend to affix a line from the top to the bottom. It will be loose, but will prevent the two pieces from pulling apart. Thanks richg99


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## mbweimar (Oct 17, 2016)

Rich, you're so innovative! You should consider starting a YouTube channel and documenting your DIY projects. There's a huge DIY following to be had out there, especially when it comes to aluminum boats.


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## richg99 (Oct 17, 2016)

Thanks for the kind words. I thought about doing something like that, but laziness got in the way. 

I do think that there is an E-book contained the pages of Tinboats. 

If someone had the time and ambition and needed a few extra bucks, I'll bet that our illustrious leader JIM would go along, and, of course, split some of the Mega Profits.

My writing and editing days are quickly slipping by. Too many boats and fish..not enough time. Ha Ha

regards, richg99


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## vwguru714 (Oct 18, 2016)

I pulled my rig down to the Keys, about a 4 hour haul, a few months after I got her with no transom saver. I could see the 50HP motor bouncing around and swinging side to side even while resting on the "lock". When I dropped it in the water it wouldn't start. Diagnosis, no spark, ignition module failure. Now it was probably coincidence that my 20 year old module just gave up but I was convinced all that banging around led to its demise. I have since always used a transom saver if only for my own peace of mind.
And I just have the cheapo square tube gimmick from Walmart.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk


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## richg99 (Oct 18, 2016)

One time I hauled my former 1648 Lowe across some railroad tracks. Looking in the rear-view mirror, I could see the entire hull and motor bouncing a good foot or more high. I Had forgotten to strap the hull down.

A transom saver would probably have jumped off completely.

I now have transom straps that retract into the holders. I have added the spring to the transom saver. I think I will tow with more confidence from now on.

richg99

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P3IAYSC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## Wyatt (Oct 18, 2016)

I think yall are way over thinking this subject lol


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## JMichael (Oct 19, 2016)

Wyatt said:


> I think yall are way over thinking this subject lol


Most people do, right up until something jumps up and bites them. Then they start to think about safety in a different way. But most of us are guilty of thinking it's gonna be the other guy, it's not gonna happen to me. I'm guilty of riding my motorcycle around town with no helmet, all the time thinking I'll be fine, I'm not going to have an accident right here in town. But it's always in the back of my mind that the odds of it being me are just as high as it is for it being someone else. But that's OK, we each have to "live or die" with our choices in this world and everyone's entitled to make their own choices.


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## onthewater102 (Oct 19, 2016)

Except stupidity is indiscriminate


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## Wyatt (Oct 19, 2016)

Riding a motorcycle without a helmet is way different than choosing between rather to run a transom saver or not. 

Rich, i would like to see more detailed pictures of your concoction!


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## JMichael (Oct 20, 2016)

Wyatt said:


> Riding a motorcycle without a helmet is way different than choosing between rather to run a transom saver or not.


Different in some ways but similar in others. They are both designed to prevent damage, so they are similar in that they are both safety equipment.


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## turbotodd (Oct 23, 2016)

A few years back I was in the market for a 16-18 foot bass boat, powered by 90-150 hp. Couldn't afford new so I stuck in the used market. Amazed me how many cracked splash wells, cracking in the transom area (usually indicated by cracking on the gelcoat), cracks even over to the sides. Each and every one of them either used no transom saver, used the motors's built-in service lock (Yamaha has those, a little lever you flip down), or had some sort of wedge or block stuck between teh bracket and the motor. None of them used any sort of "transom saver".

The older 4 stroke stuff-and it's weight-combined with poor road quality are pure torture on a transom. The newer stuff is getting a lot lighter.

The lower unit is a heck of a lot tougher than the transom is. There are savers made with shock absorption already on the market. But what I don't understand is how they work with PT&T. The motor is still going to move a little, which puts pressure against the PT&T, which still puts a load on the transom. Maybe not as much? I'm no engineer obviously. Just thinking out loud here. I guess it woudn't be much of an issue if you have a manually tilted outboard.

I also remember very well many moons ago when dad had a boat repair shop. Most of what we were doing was I/O stuff. Many of the pond hoppers had a hook on the transom that would support the outdrive while being trailered. And I remember many of those hooks being pulled out, cracked, broken, etc. But those were a totally different setup than a transom saver....they were just a hook bolted through the hull, then sometimes a piece of chain or something that ran down to the top of the outdrive, so the weight of the outdrive would just "hang" on that hook once the hydraulic PT&T would leak down.


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## richg99 (Oct 23, 2016)

What little I know about physics says to me that...a body in motion tends to stay in motion, a body at rest tends to stay at rest. Assuming I have that correct...

Any device that can keep a heavy engine from bouncing, swinging and moving around has to be better than letting that same engine tear the transom up.

A device that has some shock absorption should be better than a stiff device, IMHO.

richg99


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## Molokai (Oct 23, 2016)

richg99 said:


> What little I know about physics says to me that...a body in motion tends to stay in motion, a body at rest tends to stay at rest. Assuming I have that correct...
> 
> Any device that can keep a heavy engine from bouncing, swinging and moving around has to be better than letting that same engine tear the transom up.
> 
> ...


 
That has to be the most concise explanation i've heard yet...and i totally agree.


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## LDUBS (Oct 23, 2016)

I wouldn't want it to be "springy" but it makes sense to me to have some kind of dampening on the transom saver. Going back to something Turbotodd alluded to earlier in this thread, does the group think a rigid (no shock absorption) transom saver would be better for a motor with power trim/tilt?


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## ADIBOO (Oct 23, 2016)

I would think that everything should be as solid as possible, maybe a little absorption. I would think if the boat is strapped to the trailer, and the lower unit is also connected to the trailer via a transom saver, everything should be moving as one piece, which is the wanted result.


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## Wyatt (Oct 23, 2016)

Wouldnt the rubber pad(s) on the end of the transom saver provide enough shock absorption when the other end is solidly attached to the trailer?


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## richg99 (Oct 23, 2016)

*" enough shock absorption"*

Guess no one would know the answer to that question accurately. It would depend on the engine; its length; its weight; the construction of the transom; the height and roughness of the bump(s) in the road, and probably many other factors.

I sure don't ....richg99


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## jackieblue (Oct 24, 2016)

I've had a transom saver on this boat since new, a 2005 22' Xpress tunnel hull Center console. The 115 Yamaha has over 1300 hours on it and it has been used in some less than desirable conditions. You have to weld em up, one of the maintenance problems of a tin boat. This may be a few more hours than the average fisherman put on a boat.


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## Rat (Nov 28, 2016)

The idea of a transom saver is that all the mass moves as one unit. The motor puts a strain on the transom because of leverage by the motor. 

The transom saver reduces the leverage by attaching it to the trailer, no leverage, no flex at the transom. This is why wedges don't work; the motor still has leverage on the transom. 

Your design takes that static moment out of the design of the transom saver; by allowing the motor to flex it will add stress to the transom. A static arm is the only option to remove the stress caused by the motor as it moves. 

You design will work IF you also open the bypass valve on the trim/tilt unit. This would allow the motor to freely move independently of the transom, but the spring will act as a dampener to keep the motor in check. Otherwise, I believe it is a step backwards from the current, static, designs.


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## richg99 (Nov 28, 2016)

Interesting observation. And here I thought I was bettering the standard transom saver. Hmmmmmm

richg99


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## Buckethead (Nov 28, 2016)

Seems to me that if the boat is lashed tight to the trailer, the outboard of course, is mounted tight to the transom and the transom saver is mounted from the trailer to the lower unit properly the whole thing should move as one unit. I'd think that a setup that didn't offset the weight of the outboard to where it was pushing down on the transom as opposed to hanging off would be more damaging. If everything is tight the trailer springs should absorb most of the shock.


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## richg99 (Nov 28, 2016)

_*I'd think that a setup that didn't offset the weight of the outboard to where it was pushing down on the transom as opposed to hanging off would be more damaging*_

I believe that the discussion was more about my _*adding a spring inside*_ of the otherwise solid transom support. 

I fully agree with you that a motor just hanging off the end of the transom, and bouncing around on every railroad track, would not be good.

I;ve been using the spring-inside system for a month or so. That is maybe 6 or 8 trips of 50 miles or more one way.

richg99


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## Fishfreek (Nov 29, 2016)

Years ago my Gambler bass boat came with a shock absorer type transom saver and I have been using one type or another ever since.


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## Skunked again (Dec 13, 2016)

Any update to adding a spring? 
I have a g3 boat. Called both g3 and a local dealer. They both said the same thing, the objective is to keep the engine from moving. How you go about it, is up to you.


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## richg99 (Dec 13, 2016)

I am still running mine with the spring compressed very tightly. 

There is almost no movement, yet, somehow, I feel that the slight bounce control is best. I have no way of scientifically verifying anything. Just my gut feel. 

It sure isn't bouncing all over as it did before, with no transom saver.

richg99


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## thill (Dec 13, 2016)

Buckethead said:


> Seems to me that if the boat is lashed tight to the trailer, the outboard of course, is mounted tight to the transom and the transom saver is mounted from the trailer to the lower unit properly the whole thing should move as one unit. I'd think that a setup that didn't offset the weight of the outboard to where it was pushing down on the transom as opposed to hanging off would be more damaging. If everything is tight the trailer springs should absorb most of the shock.



^^^ What he said. If you strap down tightly, the whole thing should become one unit with the trailer, and not allow any stress to the transom, up or down.

Having the spring in there would still allow the motor to bounce up and down some. (probably more up) Perhaps not ideal, but I'm sure its way better than nothing! I personally, don't use anything, and my motor is fine.


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## VinTin (Dec 13, 2016)

Movement of the motor is leveraged force on the transom. Rigid mount is easiest on the transom.


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## Molokai (Dec 14, 2016)

VinTin said:


> Movement of the motor is leveraged force on the transom. Rigid mount is easiest on the transom.


 Not necessarily. When jolts come from the ground up they are mitigated by what is essentially a dampener. It is the best of both worlds. Most all movement from the engine swaying is eliminated and jolts from the ground up dampened.


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## Buckethead (Dec 14, 2016)

I'm thinking thill, vintin and myself are the only ones getting our heads around this.


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## richg99 (Dec 14, 2016)

Since I was the OP....and after three pages of friendly discussion...we probably ought to put this one to bed. The subject has been debated on boating sites ad-infinitum.

I guess it is like Ford or Chevy??? 

richg99


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## Molokai (Dec 14, 2016)

Buckethead said:


> I'm thinking thill, vintin and myself are the only ones getting our heads around this.


 Or not... :lol:


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## Buckethead (Dec 14, 2016)

You're right about putting this to bed. I guess if we all had the exact same boat, motor and trailer setup then we could compare apples to apples, but obviously we do not. Let's just keep doing what we're doing, especially if it's working, and continue to bounce ideas and thoughts off of one another. Frankly I've learned a lot being a part of this forum and will continue to reply and ask like I always have. Thanks for this thread Rich99.


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## PsychoXP18CC (Dec 16, 2016)

Put to bed or not, I tend to agree with the view that a transom saver's job is to take pressure off the transom by supporting some of the weight at the lower unit. And I do agree with the above assessment that having all items bound together in a tight fashion is the best route. 3 boats over the last 20yrs, all used typical transom savers with the boats strapped to the trailer, and I haven't experienced a single crack in fiberglass or aluminum yet. 

As for the shock of bumps and whatnot while driving down the road, that's what we have tires and springs on the trailer for. I insure my rigs are heavy enough to flex the springs the way they should, and my tires are inflated to a point where they'll eat some of the bumps as well. 

To put a spring in the saver means the motor bouncing up and down would then be bumping against the tilt and trim hydraulic cylinder putting undue wear on it/them, assuming the rig is so equipped. 

Since we're quoting physics law here, I will too. "For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction". To me, mitigating the action portion of that should be the primary concern, beyond that, the reaction is inevitable. So in my alleged brain, the more shock that is absorbed in the tires and springs, the less has to be dealt with on down the line. 

Ultimately, I guess it's all a matter of where we want that shock being absorbed. Sure, some will always make it to the hull and outboard. But my experiences haven't made me concerned so much that I seek to improve upon a system that has, to date, given me no problems.


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## Molokai (Dec 16, 2016)

The outboard you describe (power tilt and trim) is a mid sized motor. 50hp+? I think the disconnect here is we're comparing apples to oranges. The spring assisted TS's are pretty small and are for smaller outboards. i've had a Tohatsu 18, Honda 25 and Yami 15 and used them. At that weight the spring doesnt bounce...it dampens. If you put a 180lb motor on that same TS it would probably behave just as you describe. It would bounce. As i recall there arent any longer/bigger TS's on the market with springs. If someone were so inclined they could fabricate a TS for any size/weight motor and dial in the correct spring rate and dampening but i dont think the benefits are significant enough to make it worthwhile. However....if you have a smaller outboard...i think they are worth looking at. Similar price as one without.


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