# IM6 and IM8 rod blanks



## Hanr3

I am currently using IM6 rods from Berkley, however have seen some advertisement about the IM8 rods. Looking for any feedback.


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## CodyPomeroy

My understanding is this: IM6 is more durable, but less sensitive than an IM8. My better rods are IM7, and I have quite a few IM6 also. I don't notice a huge difference. Although, you will probably get a lighter rod and more choices of actions if you go with a higher IM. I also use Power Pro Braided line, which makes them all a lot more sensitive. If you are concerned with durability, I wouldn't go with an IM8. For what it's worth...


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## Hanr3

Thanks for the information. 

Maybe we need a thread on pole design, and construction materials?


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## New River Rat

_"I can build a rod you can't break,
but you wouldn't want to fish with it."_
- Gary Loomis

Modulus is a term that describes the stiffness to weight ratio of the graphite that’s used to create the rod blank. Increasing the modulus of the graphite, you increase the ability of the graphite to store and release energy, the sensitivity, reaction speed and power of the rod blank

I'm convinced it's more for marketing lower end rods than anything else. A rod built using IM6 does not mean it's a better rod than a competitors IM6 , as there is no industry standard for IM(6,7,8,etc). Depending how the material is wrapped on the mandrel, whether they use any other material (graphite composites, fiberglass, aramid etc) the taper, length, all go towards making a good blank.

I found a G Loomis chart to show theirrange. Gary Loomis is no longer with G Loomis, BTW.

GLX - 65 million modulus
IMX - 55 million modulus
GL3 - 47 million modulus (IM8)
GL2 - 42 million modulus (IM7)
IM6 - 38 million modulus


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## Butthead

I agree with NRR, marketing, marketing, marketing.
Traditionally, a high modulus rod would be stiffer, faster, lighter and more sensitive, but will also be more brittle compared to a lower modulus rod. But what you have to take into account is what the manufacturer is using for its resins and scrim fibers, which keep the tube structure from collapsing under load stress.

If you buy a quality rod, I wouldn't worry about durability. I pretty much exclusively bass fish with rods marketed as IM8 or better and I've never had a rod break from normal use.
Now that doesn't mean I've never snapped off a tip from improper use...or something like that. :wink:


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## Hanr3

I have two Berkley IM6 Rods that I have been using the past 3 years. So far they have been great compared to Ugly Sticks and the like. These rods are about $40 each, if memory serves me still.

So last year I wanted to try a higher quality rod and bought a St. Croix Primier. My only basis for a higher quality is cost, and realize more expensive aren't always better. 

All this got me to thinking, so what is the difference between rod materials? Im the type that likes to understand the inner workings of things so I can make educated decisions, and spend my money wisely for my needs. I dont mind paying more for a rod that meets my needs and will last.


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## gillhunter

Hanr3 said:


> I have two Berkley IM6 Rods that I have been using the past 3 years. So far they have been great compared to Ugly Sticks and the like. These rods are about $40 each, if memory serves me still.
> 
> So last year I wanted to try a higher quality rod and bought a St. Croix Primier. My only basis for a higher quality is cost, and realize more expensive aren't always better.
> 
> All this got me to thinking, so what is the difference between rod materials? Im the type that likes to understand the inner workings of things so I can make educated decisions, and spend my money wisely for my needs. I dont mind paying more for a rod that meets my needs and will last.


I also have a Berkly IM6 rod, as well as a BPS IM8 rod. I like both rods and both are 7 or 8 years old.


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## RStewart

Like others have said, IM is irrelevant. For the weekend warrior most rods will be fine. The higher end rods usually are lighter & more sensitive. I have a Kistler ($130) that I won at a tourney & I can tell a huge difference compared to the BPS rod I used to use for the same technique. The higher end rods tend to have better quality guides & reel seat. Ironically, the tourney I won the kistler at, I broke my bps rod. I set the hook & the reel popped off the rod. 

One of the biggest reasons a rod will break is poor care. You drop your rod on a sharp edge, like the edge of your deck in your boat, you weaken the blank. Do it enough & the rod will eventually fail.


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## 304boy

The higher the modulus the more sensitive the rod is but it also makes it more brittle


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## Hanr3

304boy said:


> The higher the modulus the more sensitive the rod is but it also makes it more brittle



What is modulus of a quality rod?


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## johnnybassboat

There are many things that go into a rod that determine the sensitivity of that rod. Modulus is only one of them, construction method and layup also have a bearing as does the material used for scrim. Everyone has a different way of using it in differing methods, by itself modulus isnt the best way to determine sensitivity. Wired2fish just had a st croix rod engineer on there that can explain it better than me :LOL2: Check it out.


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## Hanr3

Awesome interview. Thanks for the information. 

Some notes I took.
Modulas is the carbon fibers, not graphite. 
Modulas is only part of the equation, 100% carbon rod is not durable.
Parabolic bend is related to fiberglass rods.
Taper affects rod action and power.
Main characteristics of rod construction; taper mandrels, diameter of patterns, number of patterns, materials used, wall thickness.
Taper is similar to action. Fast taper, fast action.
Cork is rated by the number of defects and porosity. 
Guides play a role in rod cost and quality.

More questions. :mrgreen: 
What does taper mandrels mean?
What does diameter of patterns mean?
They talked about 3 main components in a rod blank, carbon/graphite, glue, and scrim. Is there a secret formula?
They also mentioned that St. Croix top of the line rods use graphite for the scrim, while lower line rods use fiberglass. Indicated the industry standard is fiberglass scrim. What other materials are used for scrim?
How do you spell scrim? #-o 

Lots to talk about. Please educate me.


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## johnnybassboat

Hanr3 said:


> Awesome interview. Thanks for the information.
> 
> Some notes I took.
> Modulas is the carbon fibers, not graphite.
> Modulas is only part of the equation, 100% carbon rod is not durable.
> Parabolic bend is related to fiberglass rods.
> Taper affects rod action and power.
> Main characteristics of rod construction; taper mandrels, diameter of patterns, number of patterns, materials used, wall thickness.
> Taper is similar to action. Fast taper, fast action.
> Cork is rated by the number of defects and porosity.
> Guides play a role in rod cost and quality.
> 
> More questions. :mrgreen:
> What does taper mandrels mean?
> What does diameter of patterns mean?
> They talked about 3 main components in a rod blank, carbon/graphite, glue, and scrim. Is there a secret formula?
> They also mentioned that St. Croix top of the line rods use graphite for the scrim, while lower line rods use fiberglass. Indicated the industry standard is fiberglass scrim. What other materials are used for scrim?
> How do you spell scrim? #-o
> 
> Lots to talk about. Please educate me.


Ok here we go A tapered mandrel is the object the material is wrapped around to form the rod shape. diameter of patterns I have no idea. If there is a secret formula they aint telling, every manufacturer has their own methods. I believe most rods are built using fiberglass for scrim, more expensive rods are built using graphite. I think some manufacturers have used baron or kevlar in the mix somehow. As far as scrim I think its scrim lol. Hope this helps, anyone else have any ideas or help, please interject.


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## Lil'Skeeter

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=307257#p307257 said:


> Hanr3 » 26 Mar 2013, 17:33[/url]"]Awesome interview. Thanks for the information.
> 
> Some notes I took.
> Modulas is the carbon fibers, not graphite.
> Modulas is only part of the equation, 100% carbon rod is not durable.
> Parabolic bend is related to fiberglass rods.
> Taper affects rod action and power.
> Main characteristics of rod construction; taper mandrels, diameter of patterns, number of patterns, materials used, wall thickness.
> Taper is similar to action. Fast taper, fast action.
> Cork is rated by the number of defects and porosity.
> Guides play a role in rod cost and quality.
> 
> More questions. :mrgreen:
> What does taper mandrels mean?
> What does diameter of patterns mean?
> They talked about 3 main components in a rod blank, carbon/graphite, glue, and scrim. Is there a secret formula?
> They also mentioned that St. Croix top of the line rods use graphite for the scrim, while lower line rods use fiberglass. Indicated the industry standard is fiberglass scrim. What other materials are used for scrim?
> How do you spell scrim? #-o
> 
> Lots to talk about. Please educate me.



Hanr3, take what you will from this forum and any other forum with a grain of salt . Everybody has their own opinion and every forum I've been on proves it. 
Two things I will say,the term "parabolic" is used in relation to G Loomis NRX rods, believe me, there's no fiberglass in that rod. Also guides have NO bearing on rod quality.
You can easily spend more on guides than on the blank itself, especially on a spinning rod. 
Research, research and research. Rod Builders magazine is probably your best source for information.


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## Lil'Skeeter

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=307257#p307257 said:


> Hanr3 » 26 Mar 2013, 17:33[/url]"]Awesome interview. Thanks for the information.
> 
> Some notes I took.
> Modulas is the carbon fibers, not graphite.
> Modulas is only part of the equation, 100% carbon rod is not durable.
> Parabolic bend is related to fiberglass rods.
> Taper affects rod action and power.
> Main characteristics of rod construction; taper mandrels, diameter of patterns, number of patterns, materials used, wall thickness.
> Taper is similar to action. Fast taper, fast action.
> Cork is rated by the number of defects and porosity.
> Guides play a role in rod cost and quality.
> 
> More questions. :mrgreen:
> What does taper mandrels mean?
> What does diameter of patterns mean?
> They talked about 3 main components in a rod blank, carbon/graphite, glue, and scrim. Is there a secret formula?
> They also mentioned that St. Croix top of the line rods use graphite for the scrim, while lower line rods use fiberglass. Indicated the industry standard is fiberglass scrim. What other materials are used for scrim?
> How do you spell scrim? #-o
> 
> Lots to talk about. Please educate me.



Hanr3, take what you will from this forum, and any other forum, with a grain of salt . Everybody has their own opinion and every forum I've been on exemplifies it. 
Two things I will say,the term "parabolic" is used in relation to G Loomis NRX rods, believe me, there's no fiberglass in that rod. Also guides have NO bearing on rod quality.
You can easily spend more on guides than on the blank itself, especially on a spinning rod. Titanium guides w/Silicon Carbide inserts will set you back $100-$125 for a 6' - 7' rod, and that's "not" using the concept system.
Research, research and research. Rod Builders magazine is probably your best source for information.


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## airsickness

After fishing with a 6ft Ugly stik lite for years and having them work flawlessly. I am convinced that most rods made today are good enough to fish with. I have probably caught hundreds of fish on that ugly stik. Now that I have a little more cash than I did back then I have started buying "better" rods and reels. Now I buy rods that are most pleasing to my eye. There I said it. I buy rods that I think look good. I know they will fish well because they are made with better stuff than my ugly stik. So when I buy a Falcon Bucoo or a StCroix Eyecon, I have bought it solely on account of its looks... Its just science :mrgreen:


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## Hanr3

I work with test engineers all day long every day of the year. We work in the most advanced test facility money can buy. While it may not be pretty, we test some awesome things. Quality and Science is my career. :mrgreen:


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## frankc

We have used Ugly Sticks for many years, as they stand up to abuse well. The first two graphite rods I bought soon lost their tips against a boat top or other damage as the children were young, so we went to the sticks.

Lately we have been using the $16 Walmart Shakespear graphites which do a very good job and are cheaply replaced. They do a respectable job on reds up to to 34" or so with spoons or topwaters.

My favorites are handmade Fenwick rods and a couple of nice graphites which we enjoy, but half the time we have the cheap Chinese Shakespears in our hands. There is no snob appeal with the cheap rods, but they all catch fish.

I don't get too involved with the modulus of a rod normally, but can understand why others do. Some like Fords and others want BMW's.


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## Hanr3

I prefer Cadillac to BMW. :mrgreen: 

Yes, they all catch fish and so do bamboo poles. However I find the higher end rods have more sensitivity and I end up catching more fish. Well at least being able to see the light nibbles Crappies are known for.


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## txninja

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=293972#p293972 said:


> Hanr3 » 03 Jan 2013, 21:11[/url]"]I am currently using IM6 rods from Berkley, however have seen some advertisement about the IM8 rods. Looking for any feedback.



I think there is a bit of marketing behind the whole system, just like everything. I have a custom rod business and I believe in a "mid" grade rod blank to build with. I like a combination of sensitivity, strength and durability. To all the guys who fish with "cheap rods", I do too in certain situations, like cat fishing. Now if I'm bass fishing or fly fishing, no way am I using a "cheap" rod. I spend way too much money and time to go fishing and I'm going to fish with good tools.


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