# I've been thinking......



## bassboy1 (Oct 11, 2008)

Alright, I had been pondering for a while on what my next boat project is going to be. I would probably like to make a center console striper/coastal rig. Something that handles rough water fairly well, but will still fish the coastal flats fairly well. Maybe not as well as a true flats boat, but the majority of my time in a rig like this would be striper fishing around here, so the rougher water capability takes precedence over the super shallow draft/tunnel hull. I am thinking about a layout similar to this. 
https://www.mako-boats.com/boat/?boat=2812
You have a bow deck for throwing a cast net for bait, or for chucking spoons and jerks at stripers, but then you have walk around space for rod holders all around. I would probably move the console forward a bit, to allow walking around the stern better. Would need at least a 35 gallon bait tank, at the very minimum. I would probably incorporate some sort of flip up seating for maybe 6, so this boat could be used to carry the whole family, and can be used for light watersports. 

Now, for the longest time, I was thinking about getting an older aluminum vee, with a similar hull shape the Mako, probably a starcraft or something of that sort, and modding it myself, but then, it dawned on me. What if I were to make the hull from scratch? I don't see any reason in the world why I couldn't do that, aside from funds. 

Obviously, I couldn't get started until about May or June of next year, as the sophmore year, if you take the Honors/AP tract at my school is the toughest year of them all, so it wouldn't be prudent to pile a large scale project on top of this school year. I turn 16 in the middle of March, and am fairly sure I have a reliable job lined up for then, but I will also be driving, so it would probably be a moot point there. So, funds are one issue there.

The other issue is welded or riveted? Aside from cutting torch, we only have a MIG setup. It is the Lincoln Weld Pak 175 HD. Theoretically, with the addition of a spool gun (aluminum wire doesn't like to feed), it should weld aluminum just dandy. But, I am not sure how well that works in practice. If I had access to a TIG, I am positive I could work at it hard enough to be fluent at it, but I don't know of anyone to gain access to one with. I think the school's shop has the same setup I have at the house. 

On the flip side, I could rivet it. I would really just need to get a few more sizes of rivet punches, and maybe buy my own air hammer, instead of borrowing one from dads workplace. I also would need a better press brake, or bending brake, as more things would need to be bent to be able to rivet well. Obviously, there are a few welds on a riveted boat, but I could get them jigged up, and prepped, and won't have to pay too incredibly much for a welding shop to run a few beads down it with a TIG. 

As far as shaping the hull, it would be a vee, so there is some shaping to be done. I would probably need an English wheel, or at least gain access to one, for certain things. All the chines and such would be welded/riveted externally, not formed into the hull (also allows one to wear through the chines, without wearing through the hull. 

Once I get past the construction of the shell of the hull, I would be in familiar waters, as I have built boat interiors, and I have rigged boats for console motors, and all the fun stuff associated with that. 

I am probably looking at something in the 75 to 100 hp range, maybe up to 115 if I go on the big side of 18 feet. 

I am curious to see what some of y'alls thoughts on this are.


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## shamoo (Oct 11, 2008)

Sounds good to me :mrgreen:


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## SlimeTime (Oct 11, 2008)

I spent 30 years working with sheetmetal, mostly HVACR related. Part included running some larger equipment (pressbrakes, shears, turret, etc) for a friend who owned a welding/fab shop. And I''ve built some pretty oddball stuff by hand.

Here would be me at a 12' Chicago 90 ton pressbrake. Only reason I'm mentioning this, is because I do have some experience with it.






There is no way I'd attempt it, for several reasons. #1- Cost, you'll have 10X the amount in the hull as you could buy one for. #2-The material requires wouldn't be workable on an English Wheel or Planishing Hammer in the size of materials required.
#3-You couldn't afford to buy the equipment, or rent shoptime from someone who did (unless you knew them). #4- Way more involved that what one might think....

Do this, try building a 12" (or whatever scale you choose) model of a hull from aluminum & see how it turns-out. Multiply the difficulty X about 100. Now, you do as you wish, it's your cash, but again, it's not an economical choice, not to mention the years of experience it would require. That said, you have alot of talent, but nothing in the range of the project you've mentioned.

Like Dirty Harry said.... "A man's got to know his limitations".

ST


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## dedawg1149 (Oct 11, 2008)

i agree with slime time


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## FishFry (Oct 12, 2008)

Go for it, I want to do this too but... I was planning on building from scratch since I have the shop, toys (I mean tools) and space that can handle it. Then I realized you can get old hulls for less than the cost of the aluminum sheet you would need to buy to build one. Won't be easy finding big sheets at the scrapyard, and if you do they'll know what they're worth. The hull I found came with a trailer of sorts as well. I know you know how to shop for used boats so don't disregard economics in favor of the cool project. From following your boat mod threads I know you can build from scratch...so on second thought forget cost, when do we start, cool projects should always overide common sense! 

I've fished for striper out of a carolina skiff which is very similiar to a mako. Nice boats, but I wouldn't expect anything else for what they cost. If I see an 18' starcraft or lund I pass on I'll let you know about it.

I'm curious about what you want to do with an english wheel. I'm under the impression that if you get your lofting right when you design your hull, your full size cut sheet should assume the correct form as you fit it all together. Even for an 18 foot boat the thickest you would build this would be 1/8" and you could go much thinner, tack and pull should handle all your shaping needs. Since this is a long term project, build a scale model or two as slimetime suggests. If you can get access to a 3d CAD program this would be even better. Rhino is great software for naval architecture, they have student rates, and given your age and interests learning how to design this would be a good career move in so many ways. Actually building it, bad career move. Go to school, get a good job, then buy the mako.


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## Jim (Oct 12, 2008)

your a madman bassboy1!

It will be difficult, but go for it!


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## bassboy1 (Oct 12, 2008)

Yeah, wasn't sure on the English wheel, just am trying to be thorough with what I might need, and figured the curving of the bow may need such. Wasn't sure though, as I haven't ever worked one of those [English wheel]. 

I know it wouldn't be cost effective, but look at fishing or hunting. Think about what you spend on boats/tackle/bows/treestands, and then what you could buy the same poundage of fish/turkey/deer for.....
But you still do it, right? More of a hobby/self satisfaction thing. 

I am fairly well acquainted with the technology teacher at our school, and it is well funded as far as the technology department is concerned. I am confident that he could give me access to some school owned 3D CAD software, that is better than what we have at the house, and more importantly, teach me how to use it. Also, the automotive repair class teacher tends to favor more of a general shop class, and teaches all students how to use metalworking equipment, including welding, even though it isn't covered in the curriculum, so I know he would be very interested in a project of this sort, and may be of some help in finding access to some needed equipment to pull this off. 




> Do this, try building a 12" _*(or whatever scale you choose)*_ model of a hull from aluminum


That is exactly what I was planning. It would just be a 12 inches equals 1 foot scale model. :lol:  :shock:


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## russ010 (Oct 12, 2008)

I say go for it. Nothing is stopping you from doing it but yourself. Sure the funds are low, but it's not like you have to get it done one day after the other. The more time you take doing it, the better off you'll be - more experience in forming the sheet metal, welding or rivets (you've got plenty of experience here)...

don't let anybody stop you from doing what you think you can do - half the time, they say don't because they haven't tried and don't think they can, therefore thinking you can't do it either. The first person to tell me that I couldn't do it, would be the first person I'd try my best to prove wrong. If people had that kind of mindset, just think what this world would be like now...

I know you well enough now to know that for a 15 year old, you are well ahead of the game and smarter than most people I know my age. Aim High (I know, Air Force slogan, but then again, I am in the Air Force) and the only thing standing between you and the end result is nothing but air and opportunity!


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## Waterwings (Oct 13, 2008)

Not to deter you from your venture, but I would definitely listen to ST's advice. Probably the most difficult part will be getting the port & stbd sides of the hull to turn-out identical and have each side be a mirror-image in shape. I do wish you luck in your endeavor, and be sure and document it with plenty of pics for the site 8)


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## Captain Ahab (Oct 13, 2008)

DO IT BassBoy - After Thomas Edison invented the light bulb* (pretty good invention, huh?) he was asked how long it took. He replied that he finally got it work on the 9,999 try. The reporter then asked was it hard having failed so many times, to which Edison replied"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." 


I have a feeling that you will be able to work this out and one day we might be buying "BassBoy" brand tin boats =D> 




















_
*He did not invent the 1st electric light bulb, but rather the 1st practical light bulb -= on e that lasted more then a few minutes._


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## SlimeTime (Oct 13, 2008)

Well guys, it isn't like he's going to be "inventing" something, millions of boats & boat hulls have been made. If manufacturers didn't need special equipment & specially trained people, boats would cost 1/2 of what they do.

OK, say you're going to build a 16' hull. Are you going yo form it in 1-piece? 2- pieces? 10 pieces? Every section will require welds or rivets. I wonder what a hull made from 10 pieces would look like? lol....I have an idea. How are you going to form an angle in a radius, say for the keel? Or is it going to be "straight"? How large of a piece of material will you actually be able to handle (form)? 

It's easy for someone who'll have nothing in it to say "sure, do it", because they'll be out nothing when it fails, and they'll be the same ones laughing behind the keyboard when the final product (if it got to that point) was something that reflects a "home-made" boat by someone who lacked the skills & equipment to build one.

Again, I'm not trying to be rude, just trying to save you thousands of dollars, and the grief that will go along with it. If it offends you, I'd rather do that than to watch you waste your money & time. Cutting & assembling a few pieces of angle, or flat sheet for decking is one thing, what you're talking about here is something totally different.

I'd suggest you do a few preliminary things, check material prices (and delivery) for the size material sheets you would need to produce a presentable-looking hull, and not one pieced together like a jig-saw puzzle. Determine how you're going to form it, forget about angles, radiuses, overbrakes, special tooling, rolling beads, stiffining V's, or any number of other steps you'll need to take to produce a decent looking hull. Do that, then post them here, I'd like to hear your ball-park cost-projections, and methods for forming your materials. When you have problems, ask help of those encouraging you to undertake a project you're not equipped to even consider.......

ST


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## bassboy1 (Oct 13, 2008)

> If it offends you,


Naw, doesn't offend me, just furthers my will power to succeed. 

When my dad was building his most recent house (homebuilding and fine woodworking are his passions. Boatbuilding and aluminum work are mine), he decided to go with some revolutionary building techniques. Most people told him he couldn't do that, it wouldn't work etc. But, he had seen it done before, and knew that the guy that did it had 2 hands and feet, and he has 2 hands and feet, so there is no reason that he couldn't do it too. Now, when I started the Yazoo, I was told I couldn't do it with aluminum, by dad nonetheless. Either he was being a hippocrit, or really trying to drill the idea that anything is possible down deep. Whichever he was trying, it was taken by me to be the latter. 

So, it was this picture that gave me the desire to build a rig like this.
https://glen-l.com/designs/hankinson/slither-snakeshtr.html
This is where plans for it are bought.
https://www.boatdesigns.com/products.asp?dept=760

I had seen that it had been done, so now I knew for a fact that it indeed could be done. And, if it could be done, there isn't a reason in the world why I can't do it. 

Have been doing a lot of research. Will come up with a ballpark price estimate for the hull only in a bit (Won't price the rest of it, as I have done interior work on more boats than just the Yazoo, rigged them, rebuilt motors, built trailers etc. Once the hull is built, I will be in familiar water.


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## FishingCop (Oct 13, 2008)

BassBoy, I'm with you.... It is obvious to me that you know what you are doing, have thought it through and planned for success. Keep on track with your process (build a model first, check out costs, etc.) and, should you then decide to move forward, you will be able to overcome any problems when they arise and have a quality finished project. 

Good luck...


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## bassboy1 (Oct 13, 2008)

I went and priced the stuff on the price list for the boat in the Glen-l plan, and for the hull, not counting the deck, it was about 1850, in the 5052 alloy. I still need to research it more, but I think a 5083 alloy would be better for this, I just couldn't find an online price calculator that had that. I would say another grand for interior aluminum work. So I am looking at having a bare hull, and interior, ready for rigging, at about 3000. 

A good used 1980s OMC 90 - 115 I can find in the 1500 price range with prop and controls, and those are usually from dealers. I could find one for less, but will allot 1500 for a motor. 

Trailer: I know I can make a nice tandem trailer that would fit a rig like this for about 1000. Dad and I have made a few before, so that wouldn't be an issue at all. It would be painted, but would have all new, or almost new everything. Plus, I don't spend that much time in salt, so a painted trailer would do me okay. 

A hydraulic steering setup would cost me 600, and I will leave another 400 to cover gauges and such wanted at the helm. 

Trolling motor and Lowrance sonar with GPS I know I can get used, and be under 1k for both.

300 for most the electrical. 160 - 240 for 2 - 3 Interstate batteries. 

Probably 350 to fabricate Tee top out of Stainless tube, then have Sunbrella as top material. 

30 - 35 gallon fuel tank - 200 - 225.


The aforementioned stuff comes out at just over 8300. I would say that if I allot 10k to get started, I could get a boat that is water ready, but just lacks certain accessories - tee top, bait tank, etc etc are not needed right off, and could come at a later date.


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## Bubba (Oct 13, 2008)

Good Luck Bassboy! Definetly sounds like an undertaking, but it does seem as you know what your in for. 

If you happen to need any help with the CAD process, let me know as I know a thing or three about computer aided drafting and I may be able to help you out. Thats what I took in highschool, and graduated from tech school for mechanical drafting as well. 

Anyways, Again...Good Luck! :beer:


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## Waterwings (Oct 13, 2008)

bassboy,

Are you going to use the 3/16" aluminum for the bottom and 1/8" for the sides as stated on the website? Looks like there may be some compound curves near the bow area.


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## russ010 (Oct 13, 2008)

you're on the right start.. and I'm pretty sure that in a couple of years I'll be fishing in it with you. Of course you know I'll help in any way I can.

You know, as much as you buy from your scrap yard (I know they carry/order new material as well)... you might be able to talk to them about hooking you up with some pieces at a discounted price when you tell them what your plans are. You can also ask for sponsorship - definitely helps with cost, only thing is you might have to put some kind of advertisement on your boat.

I've done sponsorships in the past with 4x4 rebuilds and have gotten a lot of parts free from companies - just had to put a sticker on my build. When I redid that suzuki side kick, I totalled it up - Total Cost to rebuild - 8900, Cost out of my pocket - 1300. A lot of people told me I couldn't put a 350 chevy block in a suzuki, raise suspension 12", raise body 3" and put 35 Super Swamper TSWs on it... but I proved them wrong and paid next to nothing to prove it.


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## bassboy1 (Oct 13, 2008)

Waterwings said:


> bassboy,
> 
> Are you going to use the 3/16" aluminum for the bottom and 1/8" for the sides as stated on the website? Looks like there may be some compound curves near the bow area.



I don't yet know if I would use a plan like this, or make my own plan. It would be similar to this in shape, and hull construction though. That boat, especially with the I/O jet is made for running rough, rocky rivers, so the .1875 bottom thickness is for pounding over rocks. Looking at other boats made, such as the Lunds, which I hold in high regard as far as hull construction is concerned, the bottom is only .100, and the sides are .080. Because my boat would be used for fishing reservoirs, and inshore coastal, such as the Intra coastal waterway, and Applachicola bay in the Gulf, the only hull impact it would see would be beaching it, and the occasional stump or sandbar that I was unaware of. So, I was thinking about making a hull that had .125 (1/8 inch) bottom, and .090 or .100 sides. Although, the Lund uses a double hull from the bow to Midships on most hulls except the newest Rebel. So, because the water impact this boat would face would mostly be the bow, not elsewhere, like would a river runner hitting rocks, I may try to design in a double hull up in the bow. Nothing here is set in stone. Just my ideas for design at the current.

Never thought of sponsorships of any sort. Might have to look into that a bit in the coming months......


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## SlimeTime (Oct 13, 2008)

You're $3,000 for the hull & deck is material only, correct? How much more do you figure to add for whatever it will take to form the hull? And you neglected to answer how you intend to form the hull, or how many pieces you will use to construct it.

Stickbuilding a home is an entirely different animal than shaping/forming metal. The materials used in home construction are easy to work with, much more forgiving, and less expensive if you mis-cut a 2X4 as opposed to a large sheet of aluminum. With it, you'll have 1 shot, and that's after you've procured use of proper equipment, and formed test parts.....the actual part can still go bad from there once you hit the pedal. Framing a home gets covered by drywall, which hides a multitude of sins......you won't have that luxury on a boat hull.....once a part is formed, right or wrong, there's no straightening it out to try again, you cut smaller parts from it or trash it....which only add to final costs.

So by your way of thinking, if you saw brain surgery done, you believe you could also do it? I'll pay for a couple scalpel sponsorships for that, as long as you video tape it :mrgreen: 

ST


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## bassboy1 (Oct 13, 2008)

SlimeTime said:


> .....Stickbuilding a home is an entirely different animal than shaping/forming metal. The materials used in home construction are easy to work with, much more forgiving, and less expensive if you mis-cut a 2X4 as opposed to a large sheet of aluminum....



That isn't the point I was trying to make at all. The construction techniques behind them both differ in all entirety. The point I was trying to make is that the inability for me to take no as an answer seems to come genetically. 



> So by your way of thinking, if you saw brain surgery done, you believe you could also do it?


Doubt it. But it isn't because I don't think that I am capable of doing it, more so that I have never wanted too. I believe that if you don't want to do something, and are not completely in to it, you will never succeed. I also know that if a truckload of materials came, as well as a contract giving me free permission to use a well equipped shop today, I wouldn't be able to go start building. But, I have the will power to learn all that I need to, and to jump through all the hoops needed to, in order to pull this off. And that may be where you come in, ST, as you do seem to know a bit about this. 



> And you neglected to answer how you intend to form the hull, or how many pieces you will use to construct it.


That would be jumping in a bit fast isn't it. I for sure can't start for 9 months, and I don't yet have a paper plan made. Just an idea, with the notion that a plan will be made. There are definitely more ways to skin the catfish than one, so when I finally make a plan, I will decide which way best fits the final material choice, and equipment that I have accumulated. 

The Glen L plan seemed to have a 4 piece hull. 2 bottom pieces, and 2 top ones, joined at the keel, and by the transom. But, there are definitely more ways to do that, as I want to design the hull myself, not just transfer full size plans to a piece of aluminum, and cut them out.


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## Captain Ahab (Oct 13, 2008)

BassBoy - keep up that go to attitude, I am sure you can do it, and you will never know until you try.

It is not even close to impossible - lots of people have built there own aluminum boats, just takes dedication, some skill and lots of effort.


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## dedawg1149 (Oct 13, 2008)

all i can say is if you want to do it do it.you cant stop someone from doing what they want .maybe ill see and your boat on the lake =D>


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## SlimeTime (Oct 13, 2008)

I'll post on the topic no more. You asked for opinions, and know mine. Others want to encourage your inexperienced young attitude to attempt something you're unqualified to do.....sorry, but that's the bottomline truth, at least by yourself. You made no mention of having "help", which I strongly suggest, you'll need it.

ST


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## Leibs16 (Oct 13, 2008)

If you do make the boat be sure to put a sweet flag on it!!


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## SlimeTime (Oct 13, 2008)

Leibs16 said:


> If you do make the boat be sure to put a sweet flag on it!!




Would you like to elaborate on that?


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## Kevin Morin (Oct 14, 2008)

bassboy1,

I'm a new poster here at the TinBoat.net site, please pardon my joining this topic's progress, I'd like to offer your younger member some comments.

To build a welded aluminum skiff of the size and general type you're interested in having will require some preparation on your part. There's no reason you can't learn the skills to build a simple skiff like this but the word 'simple' is referring to the shape of this skiff not the skill set and the time to become proficient enough to do the work.

Fortunately, all the skills can be learned with an investment of time and practice, not to mention some dollars required for tools; unless you have access to aluminum MIG and TIG equipment? 

Essentially, this class of shapes of skiffs is made of developable surfaces or outlines shapes that can be built with no compound shaping- only pulling the edges together and tack weld them. Cutting, fitting, laying out this class of hull shapes is not very hard and is much less complex than English wheeling a fender or using large scale forming equipment. By saying its "not very hard" I don't mean it can be _learned_ over a weekend but the skiff itself will layout, cut and tack up in less than two days work for two men- who know what to do. 

Welding is critical to completion of these skiffs in sheet/plate aluminum but that is another skill that can be learned given some effort by the apprentice level learner. 

One post above encourages you to build a model in aluminum and multiply the results by a factor to arrive at the level of effort to build these skiffs. That example may not take into account aluminum welding and could be misunderstood.

The thinner aluminum is- the harder it is to weld because the amount of heat used to fuse the parent metal becomes super critically sensitive when the sheet gets thinner than 0.060". So if you made a scale model of proportionally thin metal to your proposed 18 -20'er the aluminum sheet would so thin you'd have to be one fine hand with a TIG torch to make that model. So welding a model is actually much harder than welding a boat; don't underestimate the effort in welding thicker metal, but thinner is much more difficult.

I would prefer to build in 3/16" (0.187") sheet than in 0.080" and I've built hundreds of welded aluminum boats. So the idea about building a model as an example of how complex the boat will be- is accurate in terms of the overall idea of _work scope_- but the model would be _*much*_ more complex to weld. 

This type of boat will require the skills of laying down lines, which is simply large scale drafting using long aluminum extrusions as 'battens' or fairing strips. There is a plate model that provides the shapes of the hull panel outlines, but this can be done in software now days and you may prefer that method? 

There are only five panels in these skiffs because aluminum can be purchased in 20' or longer sheets. So each half of the bottom make two, the topsides two more and the transom a fifth. That is why I called it a simple shape. Of course you may prefer a reverse chine plate to help dry the hull out but that's not a hull panel -more of a 'strake' or plank. 

Extrusions would normally be used for spray rails and topsides rub rails as well as sheer rub rails and other framing elements so very little forming work is required. None of these details has to be formed of rolled, compound, pressed or wheeled panels- although some designs may call for that approach. Such a hull, one requiring that level of workmanship is more than twice the learning required to build a developable shape skiff.

Again, you can, or anyone who is interested can learn all the skills required if they will invest the time in learning and practicing that learning to arrive at the skills required to built this class boat.

I'd like to encourage your willingness to learn, but I don't want you to mistake the work to learn two or three trades to a 'medium' level- it won't happen overnight. I began building (commercially) in my early 20's, largely self taught, but you might want to avoid the plural years oilfield welding wages I wasted learning 'the hard way' how to build welded aluminum skiffs! 

bassboy1, you may (or may not) not have "ears to hear" as the verse goes, and if you don't then you'll pay more to learn than you might, but we're all young an bullet-proof once, so: let's build a skiff!

cheers,
Kevin Morin


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## Captain Ahab (Oct 14, 2008)

WOW - did you join at the right time Kevin - great read, thanks


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## dedawg1149 (Oct 14, 2008)

just make sure you post pictures inquiring minds what to know :shock:


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## FishFry (Oct 14, 2008)

Since you're only becoming more determined, here are some resources that may help:

This book is geared towards large sailboats and is dated, but full of usefull information. I got a copy when I started to think about building a boat myself:
https://www.amazon.com/Boatbuilding...=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1223992552&sr=1-1

Welded boat manufacturers, all different styles but of good quality with great websites:
https://www.gatortraxboats.com/home.htm
https://www.roguejet.com/default.asp
https://www.theriverman.com/index.html

Thanks for the great post there Kevin.


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## Waterwings (Oct 14, 2008)

bassboy,

[Wearing my moderator hat now]
I'm sure you realize that all of the posts by the members is constructive input. Probably everyone here has had a hankering at one time or another to build their own rig from the ground up. We're lucky to have some skilled tradesmen on the site to provide their insight and years of experience towards your endeavor. No one has said that you're not able to do it. We all know you can. As I stated, all of the posts are constructive input, and hopefully you take them as just that. My one piece of advice is this:..........................................just don't build it in a basement and you can't get it outside after it's done! :wink: 

Keep us posted with the progress, even if it's just getting the materials together in preparation to start. 8)


Note: Seems as though most everyone has provided input/suggestions to this post, so if anyone has any further constructive comments to add lets get them posted. I'll probably lock this thread later tonight, and we can start a new thread once bassboy has his project underway (no pun intended).


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## bassboy1 (Oct 14, 2008)

Never had a thread I posted locked before. :shock:  



> As I stated, all of the posts are constructive input, and hopefully you take them as just that.


I took every one of them as that. It takes a lot to offend me. More than anybody on any board has ever come close to. 

I have found a forum centered mostly around boat design/building, and am about to post a link to the thread I started there. I am probably going to get a lot of the needed info off of there, so for those of y'all wanting to follow it up until the point that I start it, just keep an eye on this thread. Once I start it, you can be sure that Jim will have to purchase more bandwidth for all the pictures I will post. https://www.boatdesign.net/forums/showthread.php?t=24587

Feel free to lock this thread. Matters not to me.

Thanks


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## Waterwings (Oct 14, 2008)

Looks like a neat site. After scanning the different forums over there, it appears there is a large selection of boat types and builders to garner some knowledge from. 8)


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## Leibs16 (Oct 14, 2008)

SlimeTime said:


> Leibs16 said:
> 
> 
> > If you do make the boat be sure to put a sweet flag on it!!
> ...



Nope.


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## Jim (Oct 14, 2008)

We are not going to lock this thread because we are civilized, friendly, and family oriented. :mrgreen: 

Everyone gave there opinion and that is that. 

Bassboy1,
If you decide to go forward I would love to have the progress of the project here too.


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## SlimeTime (Oct 14, 2008)

Leibs16 said:


> SlimeTime said:
> 
> 
> > Leibs16 said:
> ...



I thought not..........


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## Kevin Morin (Oct 15, 2008)

bassboy1,

don't forget to check out the Metal Boat Society, and everyone else who likes to learn about metal boats' built by their owners. The MBS has moved around in the cross section of our group participation over the years, lots of big (36' plus) ocean going steel sail boat guys there. Not many of us coastal skiff types but we do post in our own 'area' and contribute to the overall discussion.

Plenty of good reading at the MBS and good level of technical knowledge, focus is low on socializing aspects of fishing, boating, cruising and high on metal skills methods and design issues for the owner/builder. 

I post there often and write article series intended to help the aspiring aluminum builders to see an example or two of hand's-on work. I'm not always sure I understand who can see all the articles' details, but I do know you can join for free for a while before we try to get you to pay to join as a member! We've been through lots of versions of the MBS, still growing and changing this year, so our pay policy may not be welcomed by everyone, but that's the Board's current policy so I pay my few bucks to retain my membership too.

The BoatDesign net is another site with good comments and some very informed posters, but they do seem to have more than a needed share of folks with less knowledge than I'd prefer contributing to discussions. I realize that sounds less than polite but I've seen posts there that wouldn't be allowed on other sites, and that means the level of some exchanges are not worth reading. 

Just above a few posts is a note about the book by Steve Pollard and I'd like to remark about the what that book is: and what it is not. First the book tells us all its_ a review or guide_ to the process of welded aluminum boats but we might not always pay attention to what a 'review' means. Second the book does review many, but not all, aspects of welded aluminum boats but it doesn't claim to be a _text book and it is not_. Last, the book is a guide _for the learner _or any inquiring person about the overall process of boat building in welded aluminum. 

By using the book as a guide to learning you'd spend time in each of the chapters; design concepts (a year's time 10 hours a week doesn't really result in a good designer but it would be a good start); application of metal to hull shapes ( subset of the previous but more specialized info- a few months at best working a 20 hour week); methods of cutting forming and shaping brings more specialized study; welding- plenty of work and practice needed here. So if the book by Steve Pollard were used as a syllabus for one's learning it would serve very well, but many folks think that it is a text book for building metal boats and that's not quite on the mark.

I consider that book a good 'guide' but not a text or 'how-to' and you can only use it to guide your study into the various trades you need to learn to build. There is no step by step guide to aluminum skiff building published at this time.

bassboy1 needs to make a "decision tree" so he can see where he is and where he's going. This diagram just lists the decisions so they don't get bypassed, skipped, forgotten or ignored. First is design- yours or some else's? Next is function/purpose/use and that was given in the first post? Its settled that this boat will be welded aluminum (I guess :?: ) so the next step is; who does each stage of building? Modeling from plans? Layout of developed plates? cut fit tack and weldout? Last but more work than most bare hulls: who does all the finish work? 

If bassboy1 assigns the step to himself then it implies a course of learning and practice of the implied skill set, if he assigns it to another(?) - he's got to pay for the service. With the Pollard book as a good outline bassboy1 can map the route to his skiff and plan to either acquire the skills required or hire that step done.

bassboy1, it could be time to start a design cycle topic to explore your ideas and look at your preliminary sketches?

cheers,
Kevin Morin


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## Leibs16 (Oct 15, 2008)

Nope.[/quote]

I thought not..........[/quote]

Actually, I was taking a shot at you cause I thought you were being hard on BassBoy. Im over it.


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## bassboy1 (Oct 15, 2008)

Alright. For those of y'all that haven't been watching the thread on the other page, I have decided that I will start with an existing plan, probably the Glen-L plan, or something similar, then once the very basic hull is laid, put the plan away, and work the rest from my own ideas. After reading what a couple other people have said on that board, it would seem as if that is my best option right now, and later on, when I have a better knowledge of the materials and workability factors, I can set out and draft my own. 

After doing the research and asking a few questions, it would seem that our MIG setup, with the correct aluminum welding accessories, should tackle this job without a problem at all. Now, here is the real funny thing. I hadn't yet told dad about this. I usually get a plan formulated for a project myself, then when I have all the bases covered, I tell him about it. But, after supper tonight, I figured I had enough bases covered, and was going to show him the links, and start convincing him that I AM doing this (usually a harder sell. Heck, I had to argue for about 3 weeks before I was able to pursue the Yazoo idea). But, before I could say anything, he went and told me that he had ordered the aluminum accessories needed for the MIG. Wow. Also, this project was a much easier sell, and took all of about 2 minutes to convince him, as opposed to 3 weeks as my last project took. Maybe I didn't aim high enough.  

The only thing was, he thinks I should go with a 20 - 21 footer, as opposed to the 18. Hmm..... :shock:


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## FishingCop (Oct 15, 2008)

bassboy1 said:


> Alright. For those of y'all that haven't been watching the thread on the other page, I have decided that I will start with an existing plan, probably the Glen-L plan, or something similar, then once the very basic hull is laid, put the plan away, and work the rest from my own ideas. After reading what a couple other people have said on that board, it would seem as if that is my best option right now, and later on, when I have a better knowledge of the materials and workability factors, I can set out and draft my own.
> 
> After doing the research and asking a few questions, it would seem that our MIG setup, with the correct aluminum welding accessories, should tackle this job without a problem at all. Now, here is the real funny thing. I hadn't yet told dad about this. I usually get a plan formulated for a project myself, then when I have all the bases covered, I tell him about it. But, after supper tonight, I figured I had enough bases covered, and was going to show him the links, and start convincing him that I AM doing this (usually a harder sell. Heck, I had to argue for about 3 weeks before I was able to pursue the Yazoo idea). But, before I could say anything, he went and told me that he had ordered the aluminum accessories needed for the MIG. Wow. Also, this project was a much easier sell, and took all of about 2 minutes to convince him, as opposed to 3 weeks as my last project took. Maybe I didn't aim high enough.
> 
> The only thing was, he thinks I should go with a 20 - 21 footer, as opposed to the 18. Hmm..... :shock:



Cool Bassboy... I have absolutely nothing to offer that could be of any help in the build - no experience in this area. So, I simply say to keep the faith, stay motivated, maintain the quality during the build, ask a lot of questions and, oh yeah, measure twice, cut once  Good luck and keep us posted.....


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