# Modifying Grizzly 1448 Transom



## Ferrulewax (Apr 10, 2018)

I recently purchased a grizzly 1448. It is not the newest model, and has exposed ribs and a split rear seat. What I did not consider however was the fact that this model has a completely flat transom, unlike the newer model. The boat is in awesome shape, and I hate to have to do anything to it, but my motor is a short shaft and the cavitation plate lays about 2.5 inches above the bottom of the transom. I am considering having a professional that is capable of welding aluminum cut down the transom to the same specs as the newer model (new model= 17.5" deep transom, mine is around 20.5-21"). I have also thought about adding a spacer to the motor like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-BAY-MANUFACTURING-EXTENSION-KIT-108-MERCURY-FITS-MERC-6-8-9-9-15-HP-2-STROKE-/122943869647, getting a long shaft lower unit, or adding a jack plate. I would prefer the clean look of the cut transom, but I would like to get opinions. I think the guy that owned it before had some sort of jack plate on it as well, looking at the marks and holes in the transom. 

The guy that had it before me went to town on the nose cap with a drill for a trolling motor :? 







My transom 






New versions transom 






Any thoughts on how to proceed with the boat? I do not want to sell the motor, as I couldn't get anywhere near what the motor is worth to me from another buyer. (motor is a late 80s model, in brand new condition) Anyone had a similar dilemma?


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## eview326 (Apr 10, 2018)

Buy or build a jack plate. I think cutting the existing transom would be the last thing I’d do to that boat. 


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## Weldorthemagnificent (Apr 10, 2018)

Look on eBay for a long shaft parts motor and swap the bottom end. Probably pick one up cheap. Then you can have the best of both worlds. The higher transom is nice to have on a rough day on the lake. Plus that way you can undo everything at a later date if things change. 


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## nccatfisher (Apr 10, 2018)

I would go with the jack plate also. You may be changing boats or motors anyway, I have that exact same boat, unless you just plan on putting around you will find that 15 is grossly underpowered on it.


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## WV1951 (Apr 10, 2018)

Must be the camera angle. Anti cavitation plate looks nearly even with the bottom.


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## surfman (Apr 11, 2018)

WV1951 said:


> Must be the camera angle. Anti cavitation plate looks nearly even with the bottom.



Yea looks good to me, I wouldn't ruin the boat for a motor, I would get a longer shaft.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Apr 11, 2018)

surfman said:


> WV1951 said:
> 
> 
> > Must be the camera angle. Anti cavitation plate looks nearly even with the bottom.
> ...


It looks good to me.


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## jethro (Apr 11, 2018)

I don't understand why you can't sell the motor, maybe the market is different where you are? Around here you could easily fetch $700 for that motor- maybe more. Anyway, I agree with others, it doesn't make sense to cut up the boat, I'd get the correct motor.


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## eshaw (Apr 11, 2018)

I'd think long and hard before chopping the transom. I myself wouldn't do it. It's too easy for water to come over the back on choppy days like previously mentioned. Also, like previously mentioned, that motor isn't going to get it on a boat that wide. I'd say it had a bigger motor on it previously since it has a kicker jack on it. Another thing I see in that picture is yours is a flat bottom where as the newer model you posted has more dead rise also.


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## Ferrulewax (Apr 11, 2018)

The cavitation plate is definitely around 3 inches above the bottom of the hull, it is more difficult to tell in the (bad) picture I took. The hull also has a very small amount of dead-rise, but it does not seem to have as much as the new model. I have heard varying reports on the 15hp with a 1448. I know it is a heavy hull, however the boat wants to get up on plane after some trial runs, but as soon as it does the prop cannot get traction. I will not be cutting the transom and will do some workarounds first.


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## Ferrulewax (Apr 11, 2018)

For some more information, I purchased this boat to go along with the motor, not vise versa. I had the motor from a buddy, and a 13ft gheenoe. Well, the motor made the gheenoe fly to say the least, so I got to looking for a larger hull for the motor. I knew I wanted a wide boat that would get on plane with the 15 but I don't care to go all that fast. It'll be a river boat, so I am not all that concerned with rough water either. I may just end up reselling the hull but I have a trip in may that I purchased the hull specifically for. I can limp around with the 15hp for that trip if need be.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Apr 11, 2018)

What you need is "set back". If you move the motor back far enough it should work out ok.


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## Ferrulewax (Apr 11, 2018)

Has anyone experimented with implementing a compression plate on an outboard to allow it to run higher? I know this may seem like avoiding the problem, and it is to a certain extent, however, I would like to run the prop as high as possible for a shallow draft.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Apr 11, 2018)

As long as the water pick up is picking up water you can raise the motor up.


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## nccatfisher (Apr 11, 2018)

I have the same boat, I am running a 5" setback on mine and the cavitation plate is almost 3" above the bottom of the boat at startoff with no blowout. I could run it higher once planed but would be scared of it starving for water and running hot quit frankly. I have trimmed it up higher a couple of times just to check and it would come up considerably but I don't see the need most of the time. I have pulled it up when I was easing around in extremely shallow water and I could keep an eye on the indicator stream to make sure I wasn't starving it.


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## Ferrulewax (Apr 11, 2018)

nccatfisher said:


> I have the same boat, I am running a 5" setback on mine and the cavitation plate is almost 3" above the bottom of the boat at startoff with no blowout. I could run it higher once planed but would be scared of it starving for water and running hot quit frankly. I have trimmed it up higher a couple of times just to check and it would come up considerably but I don't see the need most of the time. I have pulled it up when I was easing around in extremely shallow water and I could keep an eye on the indicator stream to make sure I wasn't starving it.



That is awesome information! What are you using as a spacer for your setback? Also, what size engine are you running? Should I be concerned over the boat not planing well?


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## nccatfisher (Apr 11, 2018)

CMC PT 35 tilt and trim. It is '15 25 Yamaha. 

Mine planes fast, but I have two batteries and the fuel tank up under the front deck. I enlarged the hole large enough to get a fuel tank in there. I have all my weight up front as possible. I also drilled out the rivets in those back compartments and made storage there. I used .065 aluminum and finished the floor all the way to the front. I put closed cell foam between the ribs under the floor.


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## Striper57 (Apr 12, 2018)

You could use a Drop Down Plate. It's like a jackplate, only it lowers a motor instead of raises one. I know that Vance Mfg makes one, but I think it has a 6 inch setback, which may be too much for what you want. I've bought two jackplates from them in the past and they seem pretty up and up, so they may be able to work with you on making a smaller version as well.

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## gnappi (Apr 13, 2018)

I also like the idea of the higher transom. I'd change the motor or lower unit before cutting the boat.


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## turbotodd (Apr 16, 2018)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> What you need is "set back". If you move the motor back far enough it should work out ok.




agreed. CMC PT35 would achieve that AND give PT&T to boot. Win-win, IMO.


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