# 77 duracraft 16ft



## screamensemen (Jun 9, 2014)

Hey guys new to the forum. I picked up a sweet 16ft duracraft boat. It has a 40hp yamaha enduro tiller motor for $1500. The guy before me did a lot of work to it so it's about ready to fish my some issues need to be addressed first. The transom on the back has a 1/2 plywood that's always in contact with water and guess what.... Yup it's rotted. So question, is reason for having this in there? To me I don't think so. Also any ideas on for making a bait well? There is a wood one that's been covered in resin to water seal it but they never did the outside and you probably guessed it it's rotten as well. I'm open to ideas and suggestion new to the whole aluminum boats.


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## screamensemen (Jun 9, 2014)

Ok I pulled off the plywood on the back of the transom and well it's a mess. There are a few corrosion spots with pin holes in it and a bunch of holes from people drilling and adding stuff to it. Question has anyone cut the aluminum back transom off and replaced it with a new one? I am thinking of doing that and adding a thicker piece of aluminum to help strengthen the transom as well. Please help


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## screamensemen (Jun 10, 2014)

that's another picture of the corrosion I have. 

Ok well I did some research and found a local fab shot near me and was able to talk to the people last night about my issue I have with my peppered transom. They can cut the old transom out and replace it with a thicker piece if aluminum. It will cost me around $400 to get it done. I started counting holes on the transom yesterday and got over 70 from motor mount house to corrosion to I don't know what someone drilled in for. Hope this helps anyone that's in the same boat as me.


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## huntinfool (Jun 10, 2014)

The reason someone put a piece of wood on the outside is because the wood inside the transom is rotted. I'd remove all that wood and replace it, but maybe after the aluminum. The wood on the outside allowed water to get between and corrode the aluminum. Holes as just that, nothing some silicone can't seal. Corrosion is much more of a problem. If the transom skin is weak I'd consider replacing it. 
Once that is done you can build a new solid transom and you can get back on the water. Plus now might be the time to consider adding pods on the back, since it will be at the fan shop.
Keep the pics coming.


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## screamensemen (Jun 10, 2014)

This is my first aluminum boat so I am new to this all. Boat pods? Are they welded on? Can you use them as a ladder? What other benefits do they have?


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## screamensemen (Jun 10, 2014)

Other side with wood removed


One side with wood removed


That's after carpet is removed.

Ok I ripped the old seat and bait well that was in it and it was all rotten. So next question the 2 back corner boxes has some cut out holes in it but it's filled with foam. I'm thinking of removing these boxes completely or removing the foam and but a bait well on one side and my battery on another. Would this be a good idea?


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## Buckethead (Jun 10, 2014)

Here's the link to my build of my duracraft. I replaced my transom with a piece of solid oak. As far as your question about removing foam I think you're ok. I removed all of mine and put it back in the form of 1" closed cell between the ribs in the floor and the gunwales. Now that I'm close to done I'm still adding it around the structure I've built inside. I'll be following your build, good luck. 

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=26781


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## screamensemen (Jun 10, 2014)

I've read your thread and might I say you've done some good work. What have you done about a live baitwell? I've been trying to wrap my head around doing something but just haven't put my finger on it yet. My bench seat is trashed so I'm getting the fab shop to make up a new one. I found these storage liner that I can turn into a live well https://tempress.com./#!/~/product/category=442147&id=1527538 So when the new bench it put back in I may put the love well in it and battery on the other side. I'm in a little of a time crunch to do this project bc I know I won't have enough time later except go out and fish some. My wife is due on October 25 with triplets so I'll be a busy man. Thank you for the feed back and I look forward from getting helpful tips from you guys.


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## Buckethead (Jun 11, 2014)

For a baitwell I'm going to put a divider in the livewell. I found an aluminum tray from a military medical kit at an army surplus store that has holes in it 1/8" diameter. I'm going to slide it in like a baffle so water can still flow through but prevent minners from mingling with anything in the livewell.


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## screamensemen (Jun 11, 2014)

Cool sounds like that will work great. I found on Cabelas a livewell model 200 I think I may use. 
https://www.cabelas.com/product/Cabelas-Dry-StorLivewells/738031.uts?Ntk=AllProducts&searchPath=%2Fcatalog%2Fsearch.cmd%3Fform_state%3DsearchForm%26N%3D0%26fsch%3Dtrue%26Ntk%3DAllProducts%26Ntt%3Dlivewell%26WTz_l%3DHeader%253BSearch-All%2BProducts%26x%3D0%26y%3D0&Ntt=livewell&WTz_l=Header%3BSearch-All+Products

Quick question, I am removing the solid rivets to get my bench seat out and was wanting to know if anyone found an easy way to remove them? I started to remove them with the fork end of a pry bar and a hammer and chiseled the tail off the rivet. It works but a little of a pain.


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## Buckethead (Jun 11, 2014)

I used a grinder to grind them down flush with the metal on the inside, hit them with a nail set or small round chisel to push the river to the outside then reshape the metal around the hole with 2 hammers.


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## screamensemen (Jun 11, 2014)

Did you replace the rivets with rivets or did you use SS bolts? I think the bolts would be easier.


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## screamensemen (Jun 11, 2014)

That's after removing the seat and the corner box. Well it's going in on Monday to get a new transome put on the back and I was thinking if I should frame out my own rear deck (how it looked before just with aluminum) or should I get the fab guys to do it. I want to make it out of aluminum but not sure on what material I'll need to do it ( square tubing, angle aluminum, use SS bolts or rivets, ect) and how to brace it to the floor and gunals. So if someone could please give me some pointers on that and if it sounds relatively simple to do ill take a shot at it. I'm pretty good with fabing stuff up so I think I can do it just need to helpful tips. I'm doing a livewell so that's going to get put in somewhere as well not sure where. Any ideas on that? One more thing how do you seal holes from old rivets? I have a bunch of those from taking the bench seat out?


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## Buckethead (Jun 11, 2014)

To replace my rivets I used stainless steel button head bolts, 1/4" with a nylon washer between the stainless and the aluminum so the metals wouldn't touch and stay happy longer. I used nylock nuts on all bolts and 5200 if I were close to or below the water line. As far as your framing in the transom corners goes I personally would use the horizontal and vertical holes left from the removal of the bench as anchor points for my rear deck framing. Have the fab shop weld you some tabs onto the transom to bolt framing to that way you can still design the rear deck how you want. 
As far as livewell I'm not sure if you seen it or not but I used my old bench seat as a livewell, turned it upside down, a couple cuts along with SS hardware and 5200 and I have a 22 gallon livewell.


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## screamensemen (Jun 11, 2014)

Ya I am going to use the old rivet holes to put my support angle aluminum in. I going to get the fab shop to weld me a front angle on the floor where it's not painted so I'll have a forward support on the floor. I saw the livewell you made my problem is I don't have a bench seat and I haven't been able to find one. I am doing 2 storage boxes and a front tackle tray box. I going to do a temporary livewell for now till I redo the front platform and that's where I'll put it. What size aluminum angle? I was thinking of 1/16 and 1/16 for my sheet aluminum to wrap it all then do a rhino liner. Let me know if that will be thick enough.


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## Buckethead (Jun 11, 2014)

For the support angle 1/16 should be ok if there's enough of it. As far as a deck surface 1/16 won't be strong enough by itself to support the weight of you walking on it. It's gonna need a lot of bracing underneath. I used road signs for my floor but I put styrofoam between the ribs first the riveted the aluminum to the ribs. It worked real good. I made a couple smaller access doors from it but they won't be walked on. The ones I will be walking on have additional support. You could always go to a thicker aluminum like 1/4"


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## screamensemen (Jun 12, 2014)

Ill probably do 1/8 thick angle and 1/4 sheet aluminum. How has your rivets held up? I was afraid that they would end up wearing out. Where I am putting my storage boxes will be towards the back of the boat on each side. I want to do a pour in foam and found a website that does a 2 part foam. Is there anything I need to look at before doing this? Certain way I need to prep the area? What should I lay down so the foam doesn't close the floor channels to allow water to flow towards the stern? https://www.uscomposites.com/foam.html That's the website I found.


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## huntinfool (Jun 12, 2014)

I would be careful putting a live well up front. Full of water it is going to be a lot for the motor to lift. Personally I'd put it in the back. 
You don't want too much weight up front, especially since you haven't had it on the water or know how it will plane. 
I think I remember this being a side console. So mount the battery opposite of where you will be seated. Mount the live well across the back. This will distribute the weight evenly. 

JMHO.


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## screamensemen (Jun 12, 2014)

The livewell isn't going all the way forward just right behind the front deck. I want it to be able to be accessible for anyone that's on the boat fishing with me. Ill remember that when putting in my battery. I was thinking of doing some led lights for the deck livwell and the compartments. What's your take on that?


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## Buckethead (Jun 12, 2014)

I laid down a piece of aluminum to prevent anything from plugging them up. SS bolts in the rivet holes have not moved, they've got to be stronger than the original rivets. As far as livewells go I have one in the front and the rear. Huntinfool is right about the increase in weight, I personally am not too worried since I have a rear livewell and a permanent 18 gallon fuel tank too. It all seems to even out fairly well.


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## screamensemen (Jun 13, 2014)

That's after everything is removed and ready for the new aluminum transom to be put on. 
I've been doing some looking around and think of how to do my livewell and I read on one of the forums to use an rv tank. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/RV-camper-trailer-16-GALLON-FRESH-WATER-TANK-NEW-FDA-approved-free-shipping-/351085634535?pt=Motors_RV_Trailer_Camper_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51be55a3e7&vxp=mtr

So that's what I came up with. I am going to place the live well towards the back across to me where I would be driving to counter balance the weight out. I'm going with huntinfool & buckethead on this one.


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## Buckethead (Jun 13, 2014)

I'm sure I don't have to ask but please post some pics of the new transom when it's finished. My boat has a 15" transom and I'm thinking I may do the same next year and make it a 20".

I like the RV tank too, looks like it has pre threaded holes which will make installation of your plumbing easy. 

Let's discuss your username for a second, does it reference you being a new dad of triplets or are you prior service Navy? Not that it's any business of mine just wondering.


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## huntinfool (Jun 13, 2014)

If it were me, I get the tank you want for a live well and fill it with water. Get your motor mounted and battery and your fuel tank. Load your fishing gear and add another person and get it on the water. See what it does. Maybe you can move it forward, maybe not. That would be the best test. I just know some of these smaller twins loaded down and two guys have a harder time planing. Once you figure out the best spot for everything, you'll have a better idea what you will need to build.

Again JMHO. 

As for the tank, I see no problem with that, should work great. I had an old camper that I robbed the tank from for that same purpose. I ended up with another boat and didn't have to do that project, but I did have plans to do it.


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## screamensemen (Jun 13, 2014)

Lol well its because of me going to be a dad of triplets. My family has been busting jokes about the triplets and they know I love to fish so the name went together. My wife is having two boys and a girl. None of them are identical so they have there own placentas. Sorry to get so graffic. But that kinda explains it. As for the transom i will most definently post some pictures. I've been reading a lot of different forums and the thing I love most is pictures. So I will have a lot on this build. As for the live well my gas tank is build in the bow of the boat so I think the best way to have it is put it in the same spot that it was in the back. I'm going today to get my angle I'm using 1-1/2x1-1/2 1/8 thick. I'm getting it for $22.40 a stick (20ft).


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## screamensemen (Jun 13, 2014)

May sound stupid but I think I have an idea instead of doing a wood transom. Idea what if you did aluminum square tubing like in the photo instead of wood? Do you think it would still hold up? Stronger then the wood? Won't rot!! Just do it the same thickness and weld it all together.


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## Buckethead (Jun 13, 2014)

Well as a father of 5 I can appreciate your situation. I hope all goes well for you and your family. Huntinfool, that's a great idea to test your boat and how it's gonna do, I used cinder blocks to simulate batteries and a cooler of beer as a livewell. I know it seems a bit redneck but they were pretty accurate. Something else I've done is insulate my rear livewell with 1" styrofoam on all sides including the lid, it makes a great cooler if were out for a casual boat ride.


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## Buckethead (Jun 13, 2014)

I had the same idea for a while, I was going to order some of that 2 part structural foam to fill the space inside each tube after they're welded in place. It's a bullet proof solution in my opinion.


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## screamensemen (Jun 13, 2014)

I am going to talk to the guys at the fab shop and see how much they would charge to do it. I'm hoping it wont be a crazy amount. Shouldn't be to much more than marine plywood glue and then resin. I think that's the rout I'm going to go instead of the wood you never have to change it again.


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## Buckethead (Jun 13, 2014)

Yep! Do it one time. And they'll be able to tell you if your idea will be strong enough to support your outboard. What I also am considering is multiple sheets of say 1/8" aluminum cut the same size as the transom then glued or epoxied together, sort of an aluminum plywood, that along with good knee braces and corner braces you could hang a cummins diesel off of it.


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## screamensemen (Jun 16, 2014)

boats in the shop to get the transom replaced and I talked to the fab guy and he is going to do something different instead of my ideas. he agreed that box tubing will be the best way to go and never have to replace wood again. I should have the boat back next week or maybe the end of this week.


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## Robvanbeck (Jun 16, 2014)

I like the boat! You should probly mount a few feeding chairs for next year while your at it!  The transom idea is intriguing. I'm interested in seeing how that will turn out!


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## screamensemen (Jun 16, 2014)

Ya I'll need that. The guy at the shop seemed to think that will work. I don't think there should be any issue with it. If this does work and I hope it does I have a feeling a lot more people will be doing this. I am just trying to get away from wood. No wood no rot no big repairs!!


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## Buckethead (Jun 16, 2014)

I'll definitely have my transom replaced before I hang a bigger motor on it. The oak is plenty strong but the pitted aluminum is a little concerning. I'm actually a little excited to see how it comes out. 

You may have mentioned in an earlier post but what sue motor do you have?


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## screamensemen (Jun 16, 2014)

I'm running a 40hp yamaha enduro tiller. Ya I think this aluminum brace will work out really good. Save money aggravation and time. I'll post pictures as soon as I get it back.


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## screamensemen (Jun 16, 2014)

Question. How do you paint aluminum? I have read so many different ways and just want someone to explain what I need and how to do it and what paint to use.


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## Buckethead (Jun 16, 2014)

I cleaned it with soap and water to remove dirt and oils, wiped it down with a rag and starting fluid then primed it with rustoleum self etching primer. Some guys on this forum use acetone instead is starting fluid, I've always used it for cleaning parts and removing grime, it works pretty good. I'd say if you do something along those lines you should be fine. 

The rustoleum self etching primer comes in a rattle can as well as a quart can to roll or brush on, whatever works for you.


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## screamensemen (Jun 16, 2014)

Ok cool sounds simple enough. And particular kind of paint oiled based or any thing? I've heard to get uv paint does all paint come with that? I was thinking of using this paint https://m.tractorsupply.com/en/store/majicreg%3B-town--country-tractor-truck--implement-1-gal-m-f-gray?cm_vc=-10005 

Let me know if that will work


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## Y_J (Jun 17, 2014)

I've been following your thread here and when it got to the part about rebuilding the transom, I started thinking. A few days ago I was in Home Depot, and ran across some 12"x24" aluminum diamond plating and thought to my self. That just might work on the outside, rather than new wood. (I recently pulled off the old wood on mine to replace). and thought I could just leave it polished the way it is and have good looks and good strength.. Just a thought. I really need to get a thread going on my own mods


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## screamensemen (Jun 17, 2014)

[-X you cant tell me how sweet it is and not post pictures. I'm glad that's working out for you. I'm just surprised no one has really tried this before I really don't see a reason why it wouldn't work instead of plywood. 

Any particular kind of paint oiled based or any thing? I've heard to get uv paint does all paint come with that? I was thinking of using this paint https://m.tractorsupply.com/en/store/maj ... _vc=-10005


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## Buckethead (Jun 17, 2014)

Not sure on the UV, it's just a primer until it got covered by the Eco-tread. Time will tell how it's going to work, so far I'm happy, it's water based, non toxic and went on real easy. I had the boat sitting in the sun on Saturday, it was hot for sure but you could put your hand on it and keep it there. Hopefully we'll be on the river this weekend and see how it does with a little mud and fish slime. 


Y J, please post some pictures, you've got my curiosity up.


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## screamensemen (Jun 17, 2014)

Ok went to Home Depot and came across this stuff. $14 and change for a quart and they have primer to go along with it to so aluminum. It's uv protected and I don't think I'll have a problem with it. The color of the inside of the boat is going to be a sand beige and the outside is a lighter blue and if I can get green I will mix it to make aqua blue. 




I talked to the guy at Home Depot and asked about non skid paint for aluminum well they really didn't have any paint like that but and additive to put in the paint to make it non skid.




I think this stuff will work if I put it in the paint. Let me know what you guys think.


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## Buckethead (Jun 17, 2014)

I was considering that route at one time except I was going to use a fine sand and sprinkle it on fresh paint then paint over it again but I found the Eco-tread.


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## Y_J (Jun 17, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=356085#p356085 said:


> Buckethead » 17 Jun 2014, 09:55[/url]
> Y J, please post some pictures, you've got my curiosity up.



Already did, Buckethead. you'll find them here:
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=34781&p=356179#p356179


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## screamensemen (Jun 20, 2014)

Well I haven't done much this week do to the boat being at the shop but I did do some shopping. I ordered my livewell 800gph and my bilge pump 600gph. Also ordered my livewell tank and a led flush mount tank light for night fishing and I got a flush mount courtesy light with a switch built in. Spent about $100 on it all. The boat should be out of the shop by Tuesday or Wednesday.


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## screamensemen (Jun 24, 2014)

Ok well the boat is done at the shop haven't picked it up but these are the pics the guy sent me. I think it turned out really good. I'm pleased with his work.






I'll post some more pictures when I get it.


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## screamensemen (Jun 25, 2014)

Here are the pictures of the new transom. Guy did a water leak test before I pick it up and it passed. The new aluminum is way thicker then the old stuff supper strong and will outlast me!! Very impressed with the guys work.


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## Knee Deep (Jun 25, 2014)

Who are you using for the aluminum work? That's quality work!


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## screamensemen (Jun 25, 2014)

Main land welding. He charged $550 to do the work. Great guy to deal with great on price and his quality of work is awesome!! I'll wil probably be using him again soon.

https://www.mainlandwelding.com


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## Buckethead (Jun 26, 2014)

It looks real good, I'd say that should work just fine.


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## Robvanbeck (Jun 26, 2014)

Looks awesome!


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## screamensemen (Aug 27, 2014)

Well I have done quite a bit of work since last post. I ended up ripping the front deck out do to it not being pressure treated wood and my dad fell through a hatch. I didn't like it from the day I bought it but it's gone now. Well the floor and carpet I get that was in good shape so it will stay like that for now. Crab season is coming up so getting ready for it. I took it out the other day for the first time and what better way then to run out the inlet and come right back in. Ran good rode smooth and handled awesome!!! Well I got the rear seat done as well. Sting as heck!!!! I ended up doing solid rivets through the whole process and what a breeze that was. Way easier then SS bolts and 5200. No leaks and it's solid. Also got the whitch panel back in and bilge pump in as well. So I will post some picture to ohhhh and ahhhhh over. The front part of the deck will get replaced in a later date then the bottom of the boat as well. Don't have much time right now and it works with no leaks so I'm using it. Hope you enjoy the pictures!! I'll post new ones of it now just don't have it on my phone now


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## Ail (Aug 28, 2014)

That's looking great dude. That new transom is mint. I wish I was about to do some crabbing.


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## screamensemen (Aug 28, 2014)

Ok I have some pictures of it painted 





I made a tarp rib system so when it rains the cover wouldn't hold water. It's worked so far and simple and cheap way to do it. Hope it helps anyone out looking for ideas. It's 3/4 pipe with T fitting cut in half on the top of the T part and it grabs the gunnels and stays on.


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## smackdaddy53 (Aug 29, 2014)

Looks solid! You won't regret not doing and wood, aluminum is the way to go.
I like the pvc cover ribs.


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