# Sears Jon Boats



## crannman (Oct 29, 2020)

Trying to find the year my Model 61113 Sears Jon Boat was made. 

Pre-1972 so no HUll Identification Number HIN).

Went through spring and winter archives of on-line Sears catalogs from 1962 to 1971 to find when they made the year of my 11’-9” model Jon boat. 

https://christmas.musetechnical.com/seasonal

Choose the year and searched on “Jon” and it lists the pages that apply. 

Looks like my 11’- 9” was made in the 1968-1969 timeframe. 

1962 6K62127N
1963 W6A62127N
1964 W6K62127N
1965 W6A62127N
1966 6H62127N
1967 spring 6A61112N fall/winter 6G61112N
1968 spring W6P61113N fall/winter 6W61112N
1969 spring 6A61113N fall/winter 6F61112N
1970 spring 6P61813N winter 6H61834N
1971 (fiberglass) 12’ 6B61834N, 11’-11” 6B61813N, 11’ 8-3/4 6B61807N

Just given this boat by my brother and sister in law! This fall I stripped the paint, sprayed 2 coats of SeaHawk Jon boat green and getting ready to epoxy the bottom with FASCO super slick 2000. 
Next is installing Scotty rod holders and anchor bracket. Using composite shims to make the rod holder and anchor brackets level to the angled sides of the boat. Installing SeaDeck EVA foam for the floor on each side of drain channels. 
Have a Newport Vessels 64 lb thrust trolling motor. Making my own battery power box with 60 amp circuit breaker, volt meter and battery terminal quick disconnects. Have a 10’ extension for the battery harness to test positioning the battery in forward positions to see how the boat performs. 
Waiting until spring to buy the battery. I like the VMAX 110 amp hour but continuing to shop around. 
Fun project that will be done for next spring!


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## crannman (Oct 29, 2020)

Attached some photos of my Jon boat restoration project!


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## rocksteady1 (Oct 30, 2020)

I have a 1987 Sears Jon

Im going to use some of that aluma hawk paint myself. What sprayer did you use? I figured I could roll it but sprayer would be easiest. 

Also would that epoxy work in as well?


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## crannman (Oct 30, 2020)

I really like the SeaHawk paint, especially that it’s both a primer and paint. I could not find the MEK that is recommended as a reducer so I used an MEK substitute that I saw at Lowe’s and at a Sherman Williams paint store. I cut it about 20% because it is really thick stuff. I prepared the aluminum per the instructions. Used distilled white vinegar to etch the aluminum and cleaned with water until paper towels wiped fairly clean. I have never used an air sprayer before and it was a real learning experience! My problem was managing the overspray! The first coat came out okay and not too bad on the second. I’m not happy with the way the bench seats came out so I may try painting them with a roller! It seems like a very durable paint and there’s a few videos on UTube to check out as well. As far as the FASCO super slick 2000, it sure seems like a great product! I’ve gone over the bottom and sides and used the JB Weld waterproof stuff to fix Some obvious leaks. I have all the paint removed and looking to prep the surface and apply that next! 
I’ll post some pictures when the bottom is done!


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## crannman (Oct 30, 2020)

Oh, I used a gravity fed spray gun with a disposable water filter that fit on the inlet to the spray gun. 
I borrowed the spay gun and don’t have the brand name.


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## crannman (Oct 31, 2020)

Today I cut the SeaDeck EVA foam for the floor. 
I plan to install it in between the water channels and ribs. Should help to deaden sound and provide some traction! Trying to keep the boat as light as possible so it’s easy for me to load and unload from my pick up by myself! 
Took my time to first sketch and lay out what was needed before ordering a 40” x 80” sheet. Worked out the sizes on paper first to optimize the coverage! Sketched out the floor and measurements and assigned a number for each bay 1 thru 4, and then marked the back of the EVA foam to match the layout on sketch. Going to use the remaining material from the floor to cover the seat aft of the bow.
Used scissors this time as my utility knife went a little off on the straight edge into the material the last time I used it! 
Scissors took a little more time and effort but came out nice. I bent and curled the strip I was cutting forward of the cut which helped to make the cut a bit easier and straight!
Next I’ll lay out the lengths for each bay.


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## rocksteady1 (Nov 1, 2020)

It’s raining today so I probably won’t do much. How nasty is that paint? I was considering using a roller and doing it outdoors. Was the Fasco 2000 easy to apply?


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## crannman (Nov 2, 2020)

I think the paint is good stuff. I used a paint stick to stir and lift the sediment from the bottom of the can to the top to mix it up. It is a bit thick but it appears that it would roll okay. I guess you could cut it a bit with MEK or MEK substitute. I’m going to roll the tops of the bench seats once I get a warm day and let you know how it goes!
I haven’t applied the FASCO super slick 2000 yet but again, waiting for a warmer day to apply it! Will be sure to post pictures when it’s in progress and completed!


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## crannman (Nov 2, 2020)

Trolling Motor Battery Box, Volt Meter, Circuit Breaker, and Power Cables:
Working on the design for the battery box today.
Going to put a volt meter and circuit breaker in a Pelican box and mount the box to the transom. I'll run the wires to a red plug I bought for the trolling motor and the other end to the quick disconnects for the battery! 
Here's a picture of the mock up! It's coming along a little at a time!


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## crannman (Nov 8, 2020)

Applied the FASCO Super Slick 2000 yesterday! Really like the way it came out! Have to work fast like they say! Used 2 of the quart kits for my 12’ Jon boat (part 1 pint, part 2 pint and 1 oz pigment).
Per the directions, first mixed part 2 with the pigment to mix the color then added part 1. Directions say not to use electric drill and mixer. Best to mix with stirring stick.
Used about a 1” round, 4” long 1/4” nap one coat oil and latex roller. Poured a length of about 16” at a time, and rolled it in one direction to push the epoxy in front of the roller then quickly side to side and up and down the ribs to coat them and missed spots. 
Made sure that each rivet was filled in and coated with the epoxy. 
Used this gentle adhesive tape and 18” wide painters paper to cover the newly painted camo. 
I removed the tape and paper after a couple of hours when the epoxy was setting up and I could still remove it. The tape lifted up the epoxy a bit at the edge but I was able to quickly run my finger down the edge a little at a time to stick the epoxy down and make a good seal. 
Next step are to apply some decals, EVA foam for the floor, power harness/battery box, rod holder and anchor mounts!


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## Jim (Nov 8, 2020)

Looking awesome bud! :beer:


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## crannman (Nov 8, 2020)

Thank you Jim!!! I’m having fun with it and enjoy sharing the experience!


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## crannman (Nov 8, 2020)

Trolling Motor Bracket:
So the clamp on my new trolling motor is not deep enough for the turn screw pads to fully engage the transom. Did not want to fabricate anything and wanted to keep the top flat to ease with loading and unloading from my pickup truck.
Found this device that saddles the transom deep enough to secure it and then mount my trolling motor to it. I like that it’s removable and can be mounted either on the bow or transom. 
Haven’t tested it yet on the water but seems to made well.


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## Jim (Nov 8, 2020)

That’s great! Let us know how it works out after a few tests.


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## crannman (Nov 8, 2020)

FASCO Super Slick 2000 - mixing
Used paint stick to first mix pigment with part 2 then added part 1. Went pretty good!


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## Jim (Nov 8, 2020)

Love it! :beer:


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## crannman (Nov 8, 2020)

Thank you Jim!


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## crannman (Nov 11, 2020)

Installed my anchor bracket and 3 rod holder and bracket. Using a 4” roller and a foam brush to apply a second coat of Sea Hawk paint to the inside. Started installing the EVA foam on the floor.


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## crannman (Nov 13, 2020)

Close to being done! 
Finished up the electrical today; circuit breaker and volt meter box, battery quick disconnects, trolling motor power plug and harness.
Waiting for a metal bracket and wide strap with cam lock to secure the battery box holding a 60+ lb battery!
Need to finish up the EVA foam on the sides of the floor and putting a second coat of paint on the inside gunnels.
Almost ready for a test run!


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## crannman (Nov 13, 2020)

A few pictures of the progress!


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## Jim (Nov 13, 2020)

Looking good man! How psyched are you?


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## crannman (Nov 13, 2020)

Thank you Jim!


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## crannman (Nov 14, 2020)

Battery Box Hold Down Strap and Bracket:
Upgraded from a plastic hold down bracket and buckle strap to metal brackets with nylon strap and metal cam lock for my battery box. Feel better with the metal bracket and cam lock holding down my 70 lb battery!


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## Jim (Nov 14, 2020)

Very cool!


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## crannman (Nov 14, 2020)

Thank you Jim! I’m about ready for a test run!


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## crannman (Nov 15, 2020)

Battery Power:
Applied power today! All systems go! Ready for a test run!


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## Jim (Nov 15, 2020)

Let’s go!

Anticipating a great follow up.


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## crannman (Nov 19, 2020)

Final touches!
Finished installing front seat bungee hold down, side mounted foldable cup holders, visibility flag and transducer for my portable fish finder and battery.
Test run on Saturday!


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## LDUBS (Nov 19, 2020)

crannman said:


> Battery Power:
> Applied power today! All systems go! Ready for a test run!



Hey Crannman -- if you don't mind, what is that box? I would like to enclose my TM circuit breaker in something like that.


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## Jim (Nov 20, 2020)

Simple and clean! Perfect!


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## crannman (Nov 20, 2020)

LDUBS said:


> crannman said:
> 
> 
> > Battery Power:
> ...



Hello LDUBS, it’s a PELICAN 1020 Micro Case Series box. I did need to drill a small hole for the reset button to work, as well as for the circuit breaker battery and trolling motor wires. Fed cut end of wire through holes drilled in the corners. I used an exacto knife and cut the liner of the box around the circuit breaker and volt meter to have a smooth surface then mounted everything using sticky back Velcro. Drilled the hole with a drill bit made for plexiglass then shaped with Dremel router bit.


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## LDUBS (Nov 20, 2020)

Terrific - thanks.


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## crannman (Nov 21, 2020)

Test Run 11/21/20
Test run went very well today! Boat is dry and slipped through the water nicely! Electrical system works great! 
The only thing I may consider doing is installing swivel seats!


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## Jim (Nov 21, 2020)

Glad to hear all went well, that’s awesome! Nice fish to boot!


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## crannman (Dec 4, 2020)

Added a fish measuring decal with estimated weight.


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## Western14’ (Dec 7, 2020)

Awesome job bud, your boat looks great! thanks for taking us along


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## crannman (Jan 4, 2021)

Gearing up to install 2 Millennium Marine seats!


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## crannman (Jan 10, 2021)

Seat mounts:
Counter bored all the mounting holes on the bottom of the mount plate that will attach to the bench seat. Outer flange of rivet nut will be recessed into the mount plate and provide more surface area for the seat mount.

Next is to drill the center holes for the pin mount, drill and install the rivet nuts and then attach the bottom seat mounts!


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## LDUBS (Jan 10, 2021)

I don't know how I missed that post with the pic of the Christmas sweater. Well Done!


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## crannman (Jan 10, 2021)

Thank you!


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## Gary Roe (Jan 13, 2021)

I want to install jon boat seats directly on the boat benches. But jon boat seats don’t come with pedestals or swivel bases. So what should I do now? Anyone have suggestions for me? Thanks!


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## crannman (Jan 13, 2021)

Gary Roe said:


> I want to install jon boat seats directly on the boat benches. But jon boat seats don’t come with pedestals or swivel bases. So what should I do now? Anyone have suggestions for me? Thanks!



Hello Gary, my guess would be that it would depend on the design of the seat you are considering buying or already have if they can be installed with screws or bolts directly to the bench seat.
I haven’t found a seat that connects directly to a bench seat or that comes with a swivel or pedestal mount. Could be some out there but I’ve only seen the swivel or pedestal sold separately.
If you don’t want a swivel or pedestal then one approach I would suggest is to mount the seat securely on say, 1/2” plywood or a metal plate that is strong enough for supporting a seat. I would counter bore the mounting hole on the bottom so that the hardware is flush and lays flat. Then bolt the plywood or metal plate to the bench seat. 
The bench seat in my Jon boat is enclosed so I’m using 1/4-20 rivnuts and 1/4-20 stainless screws to mount a swivel plate.
You may be able to fasten the seat directly to the bench seat by installing rivnuts in the bench seat that align with matching fasteners for the seat. May have to use wood washers between the fastener and the seat for additional surface area and strength. I would make sure that the seat has enough structure around where the fasteners would go and is strong enough to carry the weight of a person without the seat separating from where it is fastened. Also have to decide about not being able to return the seat once you drill into it! 
Hope some of these ideas may help and be sure to check out the ole utube to check out any ideas there as well!


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## crannman (Jan 15, 2021)

Millennium seat with Swivl-Eze and Shoreline Marine seat mount.
Completed one of two seat installations!


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## crannman (Jan 15, 2021)

Millennium seat installation!


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## Jim (Jan 15, 2021)

Awesome man!


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## crannman (Jan 15, 2021)

Jim said:


> Awesome man!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Thank you Jim! Can’t wait to try it out!


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## crannman (Jan 16, 2021)

Finished Millennium Seat install today! Water, here we come!


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## akboats (Jan 22, 2021)

Looking good. I wish there was a feature where we could like individual post and where we could setup to watch threads so we wouldnt have to go looking for progress on a build we saw and were interested in. I would definitely have set this up to watch for updates. good stuff.


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## crannman (Jan 22, 2021)

akboats said:


> Looking good. I wish there was a feature where we could like individual post and where we could setup to watch threads so we wouldnt have to go looking for progress on a build we saw and were interested in. I would definitely have set this up to watch for updates. good stuff.



Yes, that would be awesome! 
Thank you about the Jon boat refurbishment! It was a fun project. Making some bucktail jigs now to use on the boat this spring!


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## crannman (Jan 22, 2021)

crannman said:


> akboats said:
> 
> 
> > Looking good. I wish there was a feature where we could like individual post and where we could setup to watch threads so we wouldnt have to go looking for progress on a build we saw and were interested in. I would definitely have set this up to watch for updates. good stuff.
> ...


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## Gary Roe (Jan 23, 2021)

crannman said:


> Gary Roe said:
> 
> 
> > I want to install jon boat seats directly on the boat benches. But jon boat seats don’t come with pedestals or swivel bases. So what should I do now? Anyone have suggestions for me? Thanks!
> ...



Thanks a lots! I also install a suitable seat for my boat. That's great!


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## crannman (Jan 23, 2021)

You’re welcome Gary! Hope you catch some great ones this year!


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## crannman (Jan 23, 2021)

crannman said:


> Millennium seat installation!



Added a 3/4” x 2” washer between spring on seat mount and plastic bushing. Provides a nice bearing surface to protect the plastic bushing!


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## Oliver305 (Jan 31, 2021)

I am also using Millennium seats for my boat. Absolutely love the seats! They are very comfortable, dry quickly, and do not get hot when sitting in the sun.


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## crannman (Feb 14, 2021)

Spring is around the corner!


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## old_fart (Feb 14, 2021)

Can I come and ride this boat with you please?


-W
(P.S. when are you installing the cooler upgrade?)


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## crannman (Feb 14, 2021)

Hahaha!! Cooler upgraded when I add more beer to it!!


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## crannman (Feb 26, 2021)

A couple more updates. 
Installed a storage bag to the front deck. Scavenged it from a golf bag and pop riveted in place. It’s handy! So far I but a couple of buoy markets, rod holder and anchor ropes in there! 
Also installed a couple of anchor cleats.


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## crannman (Mar 1, 2021)

Had 3/4”ID x 2” OD washers tack welded to spring on SHORELINE MARINE pedestal seat mount. Provides nice bearing surface and keeps the spring from otherwise digging into the plastic bushing on the Attwood Swivl-Eze pedestal base. Sprayed with some white lithium grease. Should make it last longer!


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## crannman (Mar 1, 2021)

Note: It was also suggested to just remove the spring which is interesting but I’ll see how it works on the water first!


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## crannman (Dec 22, 2021)

The aft seat on my 12’ jon boat is too close to the transom and as many have mentioned before, the tiller for the outboard or trolling motor is too close to the seat. 
I chose to install a slider bracket with 5/16” rivenuts and ss bolts at the forward edge of the bench seat to move the seat forward and now have about a 21” clearance from the transom to the back of the Millennium Marine seat. Also installed a swivel bracket for the seat.
I installed the slider bracket upside down from what was pictured on the packaging. Functionality seems to be the same. The mounting holes in the “I” shaped bracket aligned with the swivel bracket for mounting the seat better than the plate. Needed the plate side down for the support needed to move the seat forward.
Supported the front on the bracket with a piece of 2x6 and cross bracing brackets. I installed one bracket and in the process of fabricating and installing the second. The 2x6 is just sitting on top of the EVA foam on the deck. Using cross bracing from the bracket to the bench seat to hold it in place but expect it will move some but hopefully not too bad! 
Waiting until Spring to try it out and hope it helps to make it easier to handle the tiller on either the outboard or trolling motor.


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## LDUBS (Dec 22, 2021)

crannman said:


> The aft seat on my 12’ jon boat is too close to the transom and as many have mentioned before, the tiller for the outboard or trolling motor is too close to the seat.
> I chose to install a slider bracket with 5/16” rivenuts and ss bolts at the forward edge of the bench seat to move the seat forward and now have about a 21” clearance from the transom to the back of the Millennium Marine seat. Also installed a swivel bracket for the seat.
> I installed the slider bracket upside down from what was pictured on the packaging. Functionality seems to be the same. The mounting holes in the “I” shaped bracket aligned with the swivel bracket for mounting the seat better than the plate. Needed the plate side down for the support needed to move the seat forward.
> Supported the front on the bracket with a piece of 2x6 and cross bracing brackets. I installed one bracket and in the process of fabricating and installing the second. The 2x6 is just sitting on top of the EVA foam on the deck. Using cross bracing from the bracket to the bench seat to hold it in place but expect it will move some but hopefully not too bad!
> Waiting until Spring to try it out and hope it helps to make it easier to handle the tiller on either the outboard or trolling motor.





That is one of those "_why didn't I think of that_" ideas. Pretty slick.


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## crannman (Dec 22, 2021)

Thank you! Seems solid, hope to prove it out on the water in the spring!


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## crannman (Jun 7, 2022)

New addition to my fleet! A gift from my my sister and brother in law. 1966 Sears 11’6” x 48”Gamefisher. Fixing old patches, banging out some dents, epoxy paint the bottom and replacing the wood on the transom. Retiring it to a nice easy life on a pond using an electric trolling motor.


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## crannman (Sep 16, 2022)

Product: Necmetu Kayak Anchor Trolley Kit - 316 Stainless Steel Heavy Duty Deluxe Anchor Trolley System
Source: Amazon 
Price: $25.00

Installed an anchor trolly for my 12’ jon boat to help control its positioning when anchored. 
I like that the carabiners, eye pads, pulleys and anchor ring are all metal. The rope is thicker that offered in most anchor trolly kits. I decided not to use the bungee cords that act as shock absorbers but can always add them later. This kit comes with a nice variety of mounting hardware. 
I mounted the trolly cleat lock back to back with an Atwood cleat lock I purchased separately to secure the anchor rope inside the boat. I like having both cleats aligned with each other so that I can easily locate the cleat that locks the trolly rope. Secured the end of the anchor rope to an eye pad on a bulkhead and found a small bucket that fits my mushroom anchor to collect water and dirt from the anchor. Smooth traversing action and a solid set up.


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## crannman (Sep 16, 2022)

Product: Bass Release Ruler Decal
Source: https://releaseruler.com
Price: $10.00

Installed this ruler decal that measures the length of a bass and provides an estimated weight. I’ve compared the weight with a digital scale and it’s been pretty accurate! 
These rulers are available for different species of fish. 
It’s a handy deal for a picture but tricky to do by yourself with one hand,lol!


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## crannman (Oct 5, 2022)

Transporting Outboard Motor:Going to give this a try. Reverse mounted outboard on transom with transport side of motor turned to face up as required by the OEM. Installed two hold down brackets to use with a cam lock strap and a foam block to support the lower unit.


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## TheGrandestPoobah (Tuesday at 3:03 PM)

Not sure if you still check this, but how has the fasco held up on the bottom? I'm considering using it on my new (to me) 12 footer


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## crannman (Wednesday at 6:27 AM)

It has held up really well. No peeling anywhere and it’s bonded really nice. I worked hard on the prep to etch and clean the aluminum. The only area that could be touched up is the bottom edge of the transom but that’s from me dragging it on rocks or asphalt onto my pickup. I plan to touch that part up then be more careful loading it up. 
So, yes, I’m very happy with the FASCO product and it’s holding up very nicely!


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