# 1973 16' Crestliner V-hull Project



## DiveLiberty (May 12, 2017)

Picked up this boat, motor, trailer combo for free from a relative. It has had intermittent use over the last decade or so, but was mostly neglected in the barn. 

She's a 16' Crestliner marked 1973 on the title. I'm selling a 14' Lowe to fund the project.

The boat is nice and spacious. My plans include a complete strip down and overhaul including, new paint inside and out, complete floor with casting deck up front, new electronics and wiring, etc. 

The motor is a Mercury 200 20hp with electric start. It's currently not running, but is turning over nicely. It's getting a good spark after changing the plugs but still no luck. Next course of action will be to look through the fuel system. I'm at a bit of a loss on how to redo the ignition (key, wiring to battery, wiring to motor). Does anybody have any experience on "re-building" an ignition system on an electric motor? 

Some pictures of progress so far attached. I'm currently getting started on stripping the paint using a stripper and wire brush. Then will use some self-etching Rustoleum primer, followed by a nice new coat of paint.


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## mrdrh99 (May 14, 2017)

Very nice, I have a 14ft creastliner, and I'm very jealous!


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## DiveLiberty (May 14, 2017)

Update on the motor. I did get it running but only let it go for a few seconds as I wasn't getting any water flow from the indicator. I suppose an impeller change is due next. I plan to clean out the water line that runs to the "tell-tale", which could be the issue. However, I figured an impeller change is due anyways considering I don't know the last time it was serviced. 

Something that is a bit weird and could use some advice on. When I give the priming bulb a good squeeze, a small amount of fuel squirts out the front of the carb, through the metal screen. Is there some kind of vent that could allow this to happen normally, or should I get into the carb and clean/seal it? (thinking it could be the needle, but would the motor run okay if the needle had an issue?) I'm fairly green to outboards, but enjoy tinkering with them.


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## mrdrh99 (May 14, 2017)

Personally​...... Anytime you deem the impeller is due for a change, you should go ahead and do the carb kit too.... The parts are easy and cheap to get! You will be surprised what a yearly carb kit will do for your motor.... It's running, so you've got the hard stuff done. Keep it running with these easy maintenance items!


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## DiveLiberty (May 16, 2017)

Still working on stripping the paint from the outside of the hull. At this point I'm nearly halfway done. 

Looking ahead, there is one thing I just can't get my head around. How have you all attached your deck frame to the hull itself? This boat has a nice ridge that I'll follow with the frame (above the ribs in the pics). I'm planning on using a 2x2 frame built with Simpson Strong Ties, but I know that these are galvanized and therefore cannot touch the aluminum. How have you all actually attached your framing to the hull? 

Here is my ultimate inspiration/vision for this boat: https://www.in-depthoutdoors.com/community/forums/topic/ftlgeneral_907715/


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## DaleH (May 16, 2017)

mrdrh99 said:


> Personally​...... Anytime you deem the impeller is due for a change, you should go ahead and do the carb kit too....


_*Zowie *_ :shock: ... my own experience runs 110% contrary to that! I'd never advise that, but that's me ...

FWIW I've been boating for almost 50-years in saltwaters now ... and for almost 20-years my bros and I were running up to 13 OBs a season amongst the 4 of us, just those we owned directly. We're down to 6 OBs this season, but I also run the boat dock at my boat club with another fleet of over a dozen smaller OB powered boats of the tin and plastic flotilla. We have never, ever had to install a carb kit on a well-cared for OB ... for cause. 

I've probably only done 2 or 3 carbs kits for my own motors, but all on used ones that I bought that had been sitting or unused or were running rough as purchased. But I have done many carbs for friends and/or paying customers.

Now with that said, we do perform a decarb every 50-hours on our 2-stroke OB motors using the Seafoam 'shock' treatment, ala Dunk (Bob Dunkleberger). Granted, the fuels today are pure crap (doesn't last 30-days before breaking down), but a well maintained OB should run, run, run ...


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## DiveLiberty (May 18, 2017)

Does anybody have experience with a 70's model Mercury 200 20hp? I'm having a hard time getting the lower unit off in order to replace the impeller. I just need to know which nuts to be pulling in order to get the lower unit off.

*Update. I finally got the lower unit dropped and surprisingly the impeller looks to be in good shape. I'm wondering if I simply didn't let the motor run long enough to see water come from the tell-tale. 

Almost have all the paint stripped from the outside of the hull (so ready to be done with this part). I'm ready to start building this thing in hopes of it seeing water this year.


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## DiveLiberty (Jun 1, 2017)

I FINALLY got all the paint stripped off of the hull. I think there should be a special tinboats.net decal for those that have taken their boats down to bare aluminum, especially for those that have done it multiple times. I'm not sure you'll catch me doing that again. 

One product that I highly recommend is to use the paint stripper called "Citristrip". I chose this one because it's a gel so it would stick to the side of the hull better than a runny liquid. I applied the gel and left it sit for at least 45 minutes and most of the paint came off easily with a a wire brush on the cordless drill. One container got all of the paint of my hull. 

Update on the motor: I got it running, which is great! However, it will only run for about 30 seconds before it quickly dies. I think it to be a fuel issue so I have a pump diaphragm and carb kit in the mail. The good news is that I have a long time to go before the boat is ready for water, or else I would be going mad right now. 

Ready to start building on this thing rather than taking it apart!


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## DiveLiberty (Jun 1, 2017)

I forgot to mention, here's the plan for paint going forward. 

2 coats of Rustoleum Self-Etching primer
1 coat of Rustoleum filler primer
Top coat of Rustoleum Professional High Performance Protective Enamel 

Any objections or advice to this plan???


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## mtntop (Jun 2, 2017)

That plan sounds good to me
Have you mechanically scuffed the interior yet in preparation for the paint?


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## DiveLiberty (Jun 21, 2017)

Putting the last coat of the black on the hull tonight. Excited to have the boat back on the trailer this weekend. 

I'm really pleased with the finish that I got on the boat. I had 3 coats of Rusto primer down and then used 3 coats of Rustoleum Professional Enamel for the black and gray. I did the gray using the "Roll and tip" method, but switched to just a foam roller for the black. The roller laid down nice even coat with minimal defects or orange peel effect. Will do the inside with the gray color. It already has a good coat of paint that will serve as the primer.


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## benjineer (Jun 21, 2017)

Nice job. I want to paint mine, but probably just do it on the trailer on the upper part. The bottom isn't painted, and I plan to leave it that way.


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## DiveLiberty (Aug 17, 2017)

This project is still plugging along! I've lost a bit of urgency since I've faced the facts and accepted that it won't hit water this year. All the more time to get it just right for next season. 

I did grab a small Crestliner decal on Ebay to update the look a little bit. I love Crestliner boats and wanted to reflect that it is a Crestliner (though quite a bit older). Not reflected in the picture, I've painted the interior Rustoleum "Smoke Grey", which is the same color as the bottom of the hull. I've gotten to work on the frame using 2x2's left over from a recent chicken coop project. I doing it one piece at a time with a lot of staring at the thing in between.


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## DiveLiberty (Aug 17, 2017)

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## DiveLiberty (Aug 17, 2017)

DiveLiberty said:


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## DiveLiberty (Aug 22, 2017)

Finishing up the framing tonight then will do the electrical work before I get to the plywood stage.

What are the lights called that have a switch to automatically turn on when a hatch is opened? I know they are out there, I just can't think of what to search to get to them. 

Thanks!


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## schukster (Aug 22, 2017)

DiveLiberty said:


> Finishing up the framing tonight then will do the electrical work before I get to the plywood stage.
> 
> What are the lights called that have a switch to automatically turn on when a hatch is opened? I know they are out there, I just can't think of what to search to get to them.
> 
> Thanks!


If you're looking for the switch , I would do a search on "normally closed push button switch" The switch would shut the light off when the hatch lid is closed.

Otherwise there might be some lights with motion sensing or motion activation
https://www.amazon.com/Hatch-Motion-Activate-Marine-Led-39540-dp/dp/B012RQBG2K/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&keywords=motion%20sensing%20hatch%20light&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&qid=1503447330&ref_=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_2&sr=8-2-fkmr0
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## DiveLiberty (Aug 22, 2017)

@schukster thanks. I just didn't know what to search. I had hoped that there would be a light with a push off switch built in, just to reduce wiring. 


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## DiveLiberty (Aug 22, 2017)

Did finish out the framing for now. I'm going to frame side boxes for rod storage, and mounting the switch board and fish finder. However, I'm going to wait to build those until I have my floor carpeted and installed, so the bottom of those storage boxes will be carpeted. 

I also mounted the trolling motor (to get off the garage floor, trying to give my wife her garage spot back), sprayed truck bed liner in the back portion. I need to bolt a board on the back of a transom and then I'll be ready to hang the motor. 

Will get to work on wiring next. 

-Nav lights 
-Interior lights 
-fish finder (just ordered a new 7" Garmin!)
-bilge (not totally sold on that yet)
-Starting 

I'll run the TM off a separate battery in the bow. 
-


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## DiveLiberty (Aug 26, 2017)

Got some plywood work done today. Got 2 coats of Spar Varnish on which is drying now. Hope to get carpet going tomorrow. Also finishing up electrical. 

Here is what I landed on with electrical: 

-Nav lights
-interior lights (picked 4 up from Wally World at $8 a piece 
-Fish finder
-Bilge pump 
The switch board I have also has a DC, 12V, and volt meter. 








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## DiveLiberty (Aug 29, 2017)

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## jasper60103 (Aug 30, 2017)

I just noticed your project. Good job!
I have a old Crestliner as well, 1977 Voyager Deluxe.
Its been a great boat and doesn't leak a drop.
Good luck.
jasper


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## DiveLiberty (Sep 2, 2017)

Got some work done this week with carpeting and electrical. Still need to play with the hatches a bit as they aren't sitting quite flush. 

I finished up all of the electrical as well.















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## DiveLiberty (Sep 2, 2017)

Also, got a new toy today! Is a 7" overkill on a 16' boat? I don't care. 










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## DiveLiberty (Sep 4, 2017)

This project is starting to get close! Heading to BP to get some seats today!






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## DiveLiberty (Sep 10, 2017)

I'm starting to have hopes for fall Muskie fishing in this rig. 

I got the side storage cut and carpeted, and mounted the seats. 

I went with Tempress Navistyle low back seats and am really happy with them. I had to pay up ($100 each) but really think I'll like them. They are comfortable, sturdy, and give the boat a higher end look and feel. 










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## schukster (Sep 10, 2017)

DiveLiberty said:


> I'm starting to have hopes for fall Muskie fishing in this rig.
> 
> I got the side storage cut and carpeted, and mounted the seats.
> 
> ...



Nice build. The seats look nice with the carpet. I am really happy with my Tempress seats. 

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## DiveLiberty (Sep 10, 2017)

schukster said:


> DiveLiberty said:
> 
> 
> > I'm starting to have hopes for fall Muskie fishing in this rig.
> ...



Yes, thanks for your recommendation on the seats. I went with the low back just because of the profile of the boat, and I'm pretty happy with them. I figured if there's anything worth paying up for, it's the seats. 


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## DiveLiberty (Sep 11, 2017)

Added some LED light strips tonight. Not sure if I'll ever use them as I rarely fish at night, but it was an easy/fun addition. 









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## PZLTracker (Sep 14, 2017)

wow! =D>


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## DiveLiberty (Sep 15, 2017)

Got the Garmin mounted on a swivel arm ram mount today. That way I can still use it when on the on the casting deck. 







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## DiveLiberty (Sep 16, 2017)

I still have a few things to do on this build before I enter the "eternal tinkering" phase that I know is inevitable. BUT, she saw water for the first time (since I got her) today! 

My takeaways:
-I got about 15MPH from the 1972 Merc with my wife and I and minimal gear. It planed up fine, but didn't accelerate too much past planing. This is about what I got with my previous 14' V-hull Lowe with a 9.9, so I'm happy with it. I'll casually keep an eye on the used market for a 25+, but am happy with the Merc for now. The key electric start is awesome, I love that feature.
-I was pleased with the stability. That was a question that lingered in my mind throughout the whole build. It requires an awareness, but is plenty stable to move about the boat without worrying about swamping or going over the side. 
-I need a tiller arm extension to make steering more comfortable since my seat is higher than the factory bench was.
-Garmin EchoChirp 73cv worked AWESOME. Looking forward to improving my fishing through use of this unit. 
-I need to add cleats ASAP for use at the ramp. 
-I'm going to add some BoatBuckle retractable transom tie downs to the trailer for quick and easy trailering
-Touch up paint is needed, everything is different out in the sun as compared to the garage 

I was really happy with the layout! Will make for very comfortable fishing when by myself or with one other person. Lot's of storage will make for trips to the lake pretty easy. 

Will post a few pics of our outing when I get to it.


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## SeaFaring (Sep 16, 2017)

DiveLiberty said:


> I still have a few things to do on this build before I enter the "eternal tinkering" phase that I know is inevitable. BUT, she saw water for the first time (since I got her) today!
> 
> My takeaways:
> -I got about 15MPH from the 1972 Merc with my wife and I and minimal gear. It planed up fine, but didn't accelerate too much past planing. This is about what I got with my previous 14' V-hull Lowe with a 9.9, so I'm happy with it. I'll casually keep an eye on the used market for a 25+, but am happy with the Merc for now. The key electric start is awesome, I love that feature.
> ...



Nice looking boat! Have fun!


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## DiveLiberty (Sep 16, 2017)

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## benjineer (Oct 3, 2017)

Looks nice. Get a 40hp or bigger in my opinion. I went from 20 to 25 to 50. I think I can be satisfied now.


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## DiveLiberty (Oct 3, 2017)

@benjineer thanks, it's not done, but done enough until I can't fish anymore. 

The boat is rated for a 40hp. I'd love to get a 40hp on it but will stick with the 20hp for now simply due to the crazy high costs of used outboards. If I could buy stock in used outboards I would. I'm always on the lookout, so will pick up a newer/bigger motor when I come across a deal that I can't pass up. 

I need to post updated pics and maybe a video of my build.


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## benjineer (Oct 3, 2017)

I hear you. I traded my 25 tiller for the 48 remote. My boat is rated for a 40 also. The 25 just took to long when I wanted to make a long run. I got over the tiller also for those same runs.


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## DiveLiberty (Oct 20, 2017)

Still meaning to do a "walk around" video of the boat at some point, but been too busy using it for now! Taken it out 4 times now, and really really pleased with the way it fishes. I love the open floor space and front casting deck. 

Quick question for anyone who sees this. I had some motor issues today on the old Merc that I'm pretty sure is a spun prop. It would idle fine in gear and push us along at idle speed, but would rev high with little movement when given throttle. I took off the prop and I'm pretty sure that I can see some "spin out" on the back end of the hub. More than anything, it just appears to be freshly "disturbed" rubber. Do these symptoms seem consistent with a spun hub? I wouldn't at all be surprised if this was the original prop that came with the motor (40+ years old). 

My question is really about prop fit. The web provides a multitude of prop fit guides and calculators, but most of them don't go back as far as early 1970's. I found one that did list my motor (Mercury Model 200 20 HP), and it listed 2 props, both from Michigan Match. One looks identical to the original, 2 blade. The other is a 3 blade that looks like it will also match up. What will be, if any, the performance difference between a 2 blade vs 3 blade on a motor like this? It seems like I see nothing but 3+ blades on modern motors, even the low hp motors, but the original is a 2 blade.


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## DiveLiberty (Oct 20, 2017)

Have been thinking a lot about how to fab up some sort of shifter extension for the outboard. Not a fan of having to reach back to the side of the motor to shift, especially when pulling up to the dock or the trailer. 

I'm shocked that there is nothing commercially available. I grabbed a tiller extension for steering/throttle. I'm surprised that there is nothing (at least that I've found) to extend the shifter. That would make a guy rich eh?

Turns out, it's been thought of before, https://www.google.com/patents/US3073278 . Now I just need to track down Spencer Brewster and get this thing to market. 

Will post a pic of whatever I come up with after roaming the aisles of Menards looking for inspiration.


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## RaisedByWolves (Oct 21, 2017)

> During the above-described manipulation of the steering-throttle control handle, and the gear shift lever, the boat is usually underway, with the operator facing the stern




:shock: 

Im not getting in a boat with him.


My Evenrude has a T handle with a linkage that comes out of the front of the lower cowl for the shiftier.

Making up something similar with a mount on the lower cowl and an external linkage that goes to the original shift lever shouldn't be too hard.


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## DiveLiberty (Mar 12, 2018)

Resurrecting this thread a little bit to share my intentions for this year. Ideally I'd get all of this done in the winter, but the detached garage and cold winters make for slow winter progress. 

Here's what I hope 2018 brings to the rig:

Over the winter I added a Tempress pedestal seat for better/safer use of the trolling motor. 

I also added one of these "cockpit organizers" just for somewhere to put phone/keys/etc.: https://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/boatmates-cockpit-organizer#repChildCatid=12716

-Boat cover
-Trailer Paint
-New bunks on the trailer
-Retractable rod straps: https://www.amazon.com/BoatBuckle-F14200-Gunwale-Retractable-Tie-Down/dp/B002IV8JZW/ref=pd_sbs_200_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002IV8JZW&pd_rd_r=MD8TTF5G36XR59QAATPC&pd_rd_w=yA0yc&pd_rd_wg=PRAZo&psc=1&refRID=MD8TTF5G36XR59QAATPC
-Stop wasting days tinkering with the boat and FISH.


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## EZ707 (Mar 12, 2018)

Great build [emoji106]


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## DiveLiberty (Apr 10, 2018)

Some Updates to this build:

The old Merc Model 200 (20 hp) bit the dust and I'm up for a repower. After scouring the internet in my area, I've decided to repower to a 1978 Johnson 35. The 35 will fit the boat much better and get me the power that I need. The biggest issue, is that the 35 uses controls, so now I need to fab a console. This will end up being an upgrade, but I've got some work to do to get the boat to where it needs to be. I would have designed the boat totally differently if I had known a console would be in the picture.

Any ideas/advice/learnings from adding a side console to a boat like this? 

Additionally, I purchased a Garmin Striker 4 to add to the front of the boat. Got sick of turning around to look at the big chart while casting/trolling. 

Will get pics up as I get these additional fabs going!


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## water bouy (Apr 10, 2018)

It might be easier to find a steering bracket and tiller handle to convert it.


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## DiveLiberty (Apr 10, 2018)

Agreed, that would be easier. I'm not necessarily against the idea of a console. I fish on some big lakes (Tablerock Lake, Lake of the Ozarks, Pomme De Terre) where a console would be more comfortable. I may try and space it out with some cardboard boxes just to get an idea of the space I'm giving up.


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## thomasdgs (Apr 11, 2018)

I appreciate you resurrecting this thread. great looking build. I intend to do the flat floor and side boxes yet on my 14' Lund v-hull. Why did you choose the narrow diameter seat mounts over the larger diameter ones (sorry I havent learned the proper names for each yet)?

If you are still on about the shifter extension, I recommend looking into the Merc. XD motors. They have the forward and reverse integrated into the tiller handle (just like a tiller TM). They are pretty cheap to buy, and I haven't found any parts that aren't available for mine yet. My first tiller had this feature, and I am starting to learn how lucky I am.


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## DiveLiberty (Apr 11, 2018)

Thanks for the suggestions. I've seen the XD motors around. You're right, the shifting in the tiller handle would be awesome, especially when coming in to a dock or the trailer. Count yourself lucky! 

Theoretically, the 3/4 pin style seats should be very easy to move around or remove. When it's just me fishing, I'd be happy to just have the "drivers" seat and have the rest of the boat open. I say theoretically because mine have turned out to be pretty stiff to remove. I may try to put some grease or lube on them to see if it helps. Technically, the pin style isn't supposed to be used while under power, but my previous motor only pushed the boat about 18 MPH, so I felt pretty safe. This was my first build so it's just what I went with at the time. If I had known that I would be building a console, I definitely would have went with the wider, more permanent, seat posts.


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## DiveLiberty (Apr 12, 2018)

Got to work on the remote conversion over the last few days. I built a tiller console out of plywood and am mostly complete. 

Again, I would have done things much differently had I known this would be remote, but I think this will still work out fine.










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## DiveLiberty (Apr 14, 2018)

New power plant! Control cables in the mail. 







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## Haggro (Apr 24, 2018)

Hello,

I like your build. I have pretty much the same boat but 14' version https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=44835
It's giving me some ideas of projects to tackle on my boat in the future. 

Our transoms are identical. Just wondering where you decided to mount your transducer? Did the location work well? Would you do anything differently?

Also have you gotten a chance to test out the 35? How'd it go?


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## DiveLiberty (Apr 24, 2018)

Haggro said:


> Hello,
> 
> I like your build. I have pretty much the same boat but 14' version https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=44835
> It's giving me some ideas of projects to tackle on my boat in the future.
> ...



Thanks! I mounted the transducer just to the right of the motor. I can post a picture later tonight if it helps. Haven't gotten the Johnson out on the water yet. It took longer than expected to install the steering and controls. I hope to get out on Friday if possible.


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## Haggro (Apr 24, 2018)

Yeah pictures would be great. If anything it will give me some reference. Plus I like looking at pictures. 

I have an idea of where I would like to put it but my bunk sticks out in that location. I thought about moving the boat back but I think ill try to move the bunks foward a bit. 

Thank you for the reply. Look foward to reading about the 35.


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## DiveLiberty (Apr 24, 2018)

Haggro said:


> Yeah pictures would be great. If anything it will give me some reference. Plus I like looking at pictures.
> 
> I have an idea of where I would like to put it but my bunk sticks out in that location. I thought about moving the boat back but I think ill try to move the bunks foward a bit.
> 
> Thank you for the reply. Look foward to reading about the 35.



Here are a few pics of the transducer mount. It has held up pretty well so far. (The carpet on the bunks is high on the list for updates. I inherited it that way.









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## Prowelder (Apr 24, 2018)

DiveLiberty said:


> Haggro said:
> 
> 
> > Yeah pictures would be great. If anything it will give me some reference. Plus I like looking at pictures.
> ...


Looks good. You should look for a 50-75hp motor. You added so much wieght with the wood it no wonder it doesn't have and speed. Personaly id put a lot smaller side console or stick steer. Just big enough to hold the steering wheel and gauges. You can buy aluminium ones for like $150

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## DiveLiberty (Apr 24, 2018)

Hey Prowelder, thanks for your thoughts! I think we can agree to disagree on a few things. This boat is old (1972) and is only rated for 40 hp. I got 17mph with the old 20 hp, so expect to get 25-28 mph from the 35hp. That’s plenty of speed for me. I only fish reservoirs and generally avoid bad weather, so I just need to get from point A to B. 75hp on this boat would not only void my insurance, but could be dangerous.

The total weight of the wood is around 100 lbs. Yes, aluminum would have been lighter, but I just have the experience to work with it confidently. Maybe on the next build! Sure, 100 lbs is enough to effect the speed, but it’s no different than adding an extra person or some gear. 


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## Prowelder (Apr 24, 2018)

DiveLiberty said:


> Hey Prowelder, thanks for your thoughts! I think we can agree to disagree on a few things. This boat is old (1972) and is only rated for 40 hp. I got 17mph with the old 20 hp, so expect to get 25-28 mph from the 35hp. That’s plenty of speed for me. I only fish reservoirs and generally avoid bad weather, so I just need to get from point A to B. 75hp on this boat would not only void my insurance, but could be dangerous.
> 
> The total weight of the wood is around 100 lbs. Yes, aluminum would have been lighter, but I just have the experience to work with it confidently. Maybe on the next build! Sure, 100 lbs is enough to effect the speed, but it’s no different than adding an extra person or some gear.
> 
> ...


There is no way that wood was only 100lb

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## DiveLiberty (Apr 24, 2018)

Don’t know what to tell you, that’s what it is. It’s a sheet and a half of 3/4” plywood which is about 50 lbs a sheet, two 2x4s at about 13 lbs a piece and about six 2x2’s. 


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## DiveLiberty (Apr 24, 2018)

I guess adding the console would add another 15-20 pounds on that as well. 


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## Prowelder (Apr 24, 2018)

Prowelder said:


> DiveLiberty said:
> 
> 
> > Hey Prowelder, thanks for your thoughts! I think we can agree to disagree on a few things. This boat is old (1972) and is only rated for 40 hp. I got 17mph with the old 20 hp, so expect to get 25-28 mph from the 35hp. That’s plenty of speed for me. I only fish reservoirs and generally avoid bad weather, so I just need to get from point A to B. 75hp on this boat would not only void my insurance, but could be dangerous.
> ...


One 2x4 8ft long is over 11 lbs. Plus the plywood. Id say youre shooting way low. The boat looks good but realistically your probably in the 300- 400lb of wood. Count your boards and do the math. Im interested to see. Ive wieghed some of my builds and I usually add about 90-120lb of aluminum in my boat builds. 

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## DiveLiberty (Apr 24, 2018)

Prowelder said:


> Prowelder said:
> 
> 
> > DiveLiberty said:
> ...










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## DiveLiberty (Apr 24, 2018)

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## DiveLiberty (Apr 24, 2018)

Nowhere even close to 300 lbs in wood weight. Now human weight, that’s a different story. [emoji15]


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## RStewart (May 16, 2018)

Building that boat out of aluminum wouldn't make much difference in speed the boat runs. Good build, looks really good.


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## akboats (May 17, 2018)

Theres this guy on youtube that does these conversions for people and he weighed wood vs aluminum and there wasnt much difference in weight and the wood actually weighed less.


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## RStewart (May 17, 2018)

akboats said:


> Theres this guy on youtube that does these conversions for people and he weighed wood vs aluminum and there wasnt much difference in weight and the wood actually weighed less.



Yep. In some cases it is lighter but in general it's not that much heavier. For the cost difference I can't justify aluminum.


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## DiveLiberty (May 17, 2018)

There’s no question about the benefits of aluminum for the sake of durability. That being said, I like boat building so I’m sure that by the time this wood wears out I’ll be ready to rebuild it anyways. 


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## RStewart (May 18, 2018)

DiveLiberty said:


> There’s no question about the benefits of aluminum for the sake of durability. That being said, I like boat building so I’m sure that by the time this wood wears out I’ll be ready to rebuild it anyways.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I'm with you there. I like boat building and wood working so I can combine 2 hobbies. My first build lasted 5 years and I didn't get it sealed very good and I didn't keep it covered after the 3rd year. I had already decided I wanted to redo my layout so I decided to kinda "abuse" the boat to see how long the wood lasted. The floor started to warp a little but that was it by the time I tore it back apart.


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