# New project, Dakota 1650 modified V



## Bowhunter1661 (Nov 29, 2015)

Just bought this boat off of my grandpa. It is an little older, 1986 Dakota manufacturing 1650. Plan on a rear lid made out of aluminum. As well as aluminum casting deck extension up front. The name of the game is simplicity for this boat. The interior will be sprayed in tan Rustoleum bedliner instead of carpet. 

My current rig, a Lowe 1440 has aluminum decks and carpet. The carpet is a pain in the neck to keep clean, plus it always seems the glue comes loose. Not to mention when you lay a fish on it the slime seeps in.

I am one that likes you things to be perfect. Even though it's only a fishing boat I HATED fishing in rain and getting my carpet wet. This boat will be worry free! Wash it out after a day of catfishing and let it air dry! 

The trailer needs work too. New bunks bottom and side, new winch mounting post (current one is wrong for the trailer and is way too low for where the eye is located for the hook). Also a good sanding and roll on bedliner. Not to mention the bend it has in the center where my grandpa rigged up a support tube. May be cutting that out, fixing the bend, then supporting it again.


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## bonz_d (Nov 30, 2015)

All that matters is that it fits your needs and then to rig it to suite your style. Next you should have plenty of time to get it ready for spring.


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## Bowhunter1661 (Nov 30, 2015)

I am thinking that this will be the last boat I buy for a while. I thought that about my last but the 1440 just did not have the width that I was needing. I love these John boats because you can get them in pretty tight spots, as well as not having to worry about scratching the paint.

My father-in-law has a Ranger 621 Comanche, I always disliked having to worry about my jig flying back and chipping the gelcoat. So yes, this boat should fit my needs just fine.

Stay tuned I will also make this my build thread. My fiancé and I just bought a new house. It is currently being built and will be finished on the 18th. Once we move in and I finished all the honeydews I will begin building this for spring.


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## heron2000 (Nov 30, 2015)

looking forward to the build pics


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## bonz_d (Nov 30, 2015)

Bowhunter1661 said:


> I am thinking that this will be the last boat I buy for a while. I thought that about my last but the 1440 just did not have the width that I was needing. I love these John boats because you can get them in pretty tight spots, as well as not having to worry about scratching the paint.
> 
> My father-in-law has a Ranger 621 Comanche, I always disliked having to worry about my jig flying back and chipping the gelcoat. So yes, this boat should fit my needs just fine.



I can understand your thinking in both regards. I now have 2 tins, one a 16' Alumacraft and the other a 14.5" Sean Nymph. The smaller boat gets into the backwaters much easier than the 16' and when I put the engine up into shallow drive I can get into 12" deep water if I move slowly.

I also regularly launch at a gravel ramp that doesn't have a pier so I have to beach all the time. Wouldn't want to do that with a glasser.


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## Bowhunter1661 (Dec 24, 2015)

Well fellas, work has begun on the new boat and trailer. First step was cutting down the trailer to make it fit in my garage! The winch post he had on the trailer was not original and was extremely flimsy. So I built a new one, plan to install it once I get the bunks done. You can see it in the photo of the tongue cut off.

Next was removing all the old road sign flooring my grandpa had installed, as well as about 200 lb worth of leaves and other foliage! Removed all of his old wiring, trolling motors, fish finger, seats. It all went.

Then I lifted the boat onto some home made sea horses. Removed all the bunks, mounts and guidons. Also plan on replacing the wiring harness, then just reuse the old lights. Finally sand, prime then bedline the whole trailer.


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## Bowhunter1661 (Dec 26, 2015)

Working on the boat today. Got quite a bit done. Made a trip to homedepot and bought all the things I need to get the trailer squared away. Asside for a trailer jack and coupler. Bought a new Palm sander and sanded the whole trailer. Then used Rustoleum rust converter primer, going to follow up in the morning with two coats of bedliner.. Also made new bottom bunks and guide ons. Trailer is coming together!


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## Bowhunter1661 (Dec 26, 2015)

Decided to go ahead and spray the bedliner on the trailer. Primer had setup pretty quick. Sprayed 4 thin coats. I have to say it looks great. Also, I went ahead and bolted the side guides on as well as bolted the bunks on. Almost time to start working on the boat!


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## Bowhunter1661 (Dec 26, 2015)

I also managed to destroy my brand new concrete. The overspray was still not setup when I lowered the boat on the trailer. When I did that some water came out of the boat and made the bedliner turn into a stain!


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## Bigwrench (Dec 26, 2015)

That's looking great !


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## Bowhunter1661 (Dec 26, 2015)

Bigwrench said:


> That's looking great !


Thank you! Although it took some elbow grease, $150.00 for supplies and a sander isn't a bad deal, especially when I was looking at $900 plus tax, title and license for new!


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## Bowhunter1661 (Dec 27, 2015)

And on this note the trailer work is completed, new trailer jack installed, new coupler and winch post installed. May need to adjust my homemade winch post after the first trip to the lake just not sure yet. Getting a quote tomorrow for aluminum. So more than likely some time this week I will be beginning the deck work!


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## Bowhunter1661 (Jan 1, 2016)

Well I hope everyone had a merry Christmas and a happy new year. I was able to sneak in a little time to work on the boat New Year's Eve. On Thursday I picked up my aluminum for the decks. The metal supplier is also a scrap operation, I bought two 4x4 sheets of 1/16 aluminum scrap, a 4x8 of .063 for my front deck and sides. Front frame is constructed of 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 6061 aluminum angle (wish they had 6063), deck supports are made of 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 1/8" square aluminum. 

If I had the choice I probably would have used 1/16" angle and square. I believe it would have been plenty ridged. However the supplier only had 1/8" in stock. I am chomping at the bit to finish this so I took what he had. 

Hopefully this weekend I can manage to finish the deck. Headed out deer hunting shortly.


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## Bowhunter1661 (Jan 1, 2016)

Making great progress. Unlike my deer hunting. Jumped 9 on the way in then didn't see a thing. Center floor is riveted in place, front deck support structure is complete. Now on to gunnels and cutting the front deck sheet aluminum. Measure 15 times cut once! 

the electric shears are a life saver!!!!!


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## Bowhunter1661 (Jan 2, 2016)

Measured 15 times and cut once! Front deck shell fits very well. Kind of hit a wall in production as I need 1x1 square tubing to make my storage lid support frame. Also need to bring the deck to the local machine shop to have them bend the rear so it angles down flush with the side of the center seat/live well 

The jury is still out wether to bed line the inside or carpet. Still leaning towards bed lining.


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## Bowhunter1661 (Jan 2, 2016)

Tough crowd! No criticism or advise? Here's a question, I planned on cutting out the opening for the hatch lids. Then build a 1x1 frame all the way around the edge with two or three supports going across to stiffen the doors. I will use some 1x1 angle to make supports where the tubing will sit on when the hatches are closed. Very similar to how reservoir boat works builds their lids. Any input on this? Better ways, or cut it out and go with sealed plastic hatch covers. I did just find some really nice looking aluminum covers on cabelas website. May go that route too..


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## Fishfreek (Jan 3, 2016)

I don't have advise or criticism.... just saying NICE WORK


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## Bowhunter1661 (Jan 3, 2016)

Fishfreek said:


> I don't have advise or criticism.... just saying NICE WORK


Well thank you sir. Getting a anxious to get back on the water!


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## rednecknproud21 (Jan 3, 2016)

Nice boat

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## Stumpalump (Jan 3, 2016)

No comments or advise because you seem to know what your doing! I searched Cabella's and did not see aluminum hatches. Where did you find them? I've been looking to order some as well and those sound great.


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## Bowhunter1661 (Jan 3, 2016)

I think that I just did a Google search for custom aluminum hatches. There were numerous sites that came up with different types of hatches and such. Most were very highl priced.While searching I found the Cabela's site where they had them listed. I had searched before as well and never found them so it must be one of those anomalies where when you Google search for them it comes up on their website. Here's the link seems like a decent price for those style hatches. I need two of the large.

https://www.cabelas.com/product/Custom-Hatch/699966.uts


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## Bowhunter1661 (Jan 3, 2016)

The one thing that I did not want was a hatch That protruded up out of the floor like the plastic ones. For $230 I think that these hatches from Cabela's are perfect. However, I did see on another website a place in Texas called R and R design they should be around $60 from them. I'm going to call them on Monday


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## Stumpalump (Jan 3, 2016)

Let us know what you decide. I can see spending extra for somthing that will last as long as the boat.


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## Bowhunter1661 (Jan 4, 2016)

Have not decided fully on the hatches. Never had time to call the Texas shop. Did however get the front deck all bent to shape. I attempted to build a metal brake but that was a total failure. Ended up old schooling it with a rubber mallet, and it turned out better than expected.


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## Catch Release Repeat (Jan 4, 2016)

Impressive work w the mallet. 60 dollars a hatch that's a steal even by the time they're shipped to NY. I'm nervous about cutting into my deck though. Can't help but to be. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Bowhunter1661 (Jan 4, 2016)

Catch Release Repeat said:


> Impressive work w the mallet. 60 dollars a hatch that's a steal even by the time they're shipped to NY. I'm nervous about cutting into my deck though. Can't help but to be.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Thank you, we have a large metal bench at work. I was able to hammer in the angles then lay the sheet on the table and hammer out any marks. Quite surprised how it turned out. I kind of guessed on the $60.00 price. I had seen on another forum someone had R&R make hatches for him of smaller, but similar size as mine. They only charged him $30.00 so I assumed mine would be somewhere around $60.00. Going to call them tomorrow.


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## Bowhunter1661 (Jan 5, 2016)

Just heard back from R&R. Turns out they are the company that manufactures the hatches for Cabelas! The link I added earlier shows the sizes. Here's the prices direct from R&R.
Small- $52.00
Medium- $67.00
Large- $78.00
My custom 13x30 are $100.00. Not sure if I want to reconfigure my support structure to fit their large version rather than pay an extra $48.00 and get the custom ones that fit perfect.


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## Bowhunter1661 (Jan 6, 2016)

Pulled the trigger and placed my order with R&R. Total was $189.00 for two 12 3/4" x 35" hatches with locking handle. It is a lot of money for a Jon boat but I figured if I have gone this far and I plan on keeping it awhile I might as well do it right.. Should be 7-10 days. 

I would highly recommend these guys so far. Excellent service, as well as what look to be high quality products at very fair prices. If you stick with their genetic sizes these hatches are a far better choose cost wise than the plastic hatches. 

I was quoted $270.00 per hatch by a local guy....


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## jkapl001 (Jan 6, 2016)

Nice looking work on the boat. I am getting ready to start one and just haven't had the time. I have thought about painting the entire outside of my boat in spray bed liner, was that easy to spray? I would also be a little concerned about cutting that tongue so short, are you going to be able to drop your tail gate?


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## DaleH (Jan 6, 2016)

Bowhunter1661 said:


> The jury is still out wether to bed line the inside or carpet. Still leaning towards bed lining.


I'd do neither ... would go marine vinyl or perhaps that closed-cell foam stuff ... alligator-hide or something like that?

I use the vinyl and it wears well, stays color fast, doesn't stain if you don't allow stains to bake in for days/weeks ... and power washes really well. Plus it is fairly cheap and easy to install!


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## Bowhunter1661 (Jan 6, 2016)

jkapl001 said:


> Nice looking work on the boat. I am getting ready to start one and just haven't had the time. I have thought about painting the entire outside of my boat in spray bed liner, was that easy to spray? I would also be a little concerned about cutting that tongue so short, are you going to be able to drop your tail gate?


I just bought the cheap Rustoleum aerosol can bedliner. If I were to do it over I would have spend a little extra and rolled herculiner on. The spray is very thin. Also it makes a horrible mess! You can also buy a cheap airless sprayer from Harbor Freight and then thin out the herculiner hen spray. I think I may just paint the inside with camo green then in the summer pay the money and install SBT flooring.


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## uglymud (Jan 6, 2016)

Look into hydro turf instead of carpet some nice stuff from what I've saw.


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## Bowhunter1661 (Jan 7, 2016)

uglymud said:


> Look into hydro turf instead of carpet some nice stuff from what I've saw.


Correct me if I'm wrong, but, isn't hydro turf the same as the product SBT sells? Only cheaper and under a different brand name?


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## riverrat717 (Jan 7, 2016)

Nice boat, and good job so far!! If you go the Herculiner route, prep is everything to get a good bond. Used it on my truck bed, and had it in my old boat (PO did a crappy job, peeling up). If it were me, I'd use paint with a lil sand in it for traction. Cheap and easy to maintain. Keep up the good work! :beer:


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## Bowhunter1661 (Jan 7, 2016)

riverrat717 said:


> Nice boat, and good job so far!! If you go the Herculiner route, prep is everything to get a good bond. Used it on my truck bed, and had it in my old boat (PO did a crappy job, peeling up). If it were me, I'd use paint with a lil sand in it for traction. Cheap and easy to maintain. Keep up the good work! :beer:



Thank you sir, it is been a lot of fun so far. I also really like that idea of painting and then adding San. I may just do that and then sometime in the summer hydroturf. I just haven't decided yet. I would kind of like to Fish out of the boat and then make my decision on what material I want. But for now, I think the sand/painting idea sounds like a perfect low price option


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## Bowhunter1661 (Jan 7, 2016)

Did a little work this evening, cut one hatch hole and built that sides battery tray. While cutting the second hole my electric tin sheers broke so that hatch did not get cut. Few more days and hatches will be in.


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## Bigwrench (Jan 8, 2016)

Wow ! I can't believe all the progress you have made since the day after Christmas when I last checked this thread !! Amazing work , I need to fly you down here , feed you well while you show me how to do all this on mine lol 
Just gave me some ideas for my TM battery mounting !


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## Bowhunter1661 (Jan 8, 2016)

Bigwrench said:


> Wow ! I can't believe all the progress you have made since the day after Christmas when I last checked this thread !! Amazing work , I need to fly you down here , feed you well while you show me how to do all this on mine lol
> Just gave me some ideas for my TM battery mounting !


It sure feels like I am moving at a snails pace lol. Looking forward to being done! For the tray, I had planned on not putting a second peice of angle across the back. But now that I see it I have decided to add the 4th piece across the back and then rivet it to the bench seat. I am going with a 24 volt trolling motor, so one on each side should give a good weight distribution once my 20 HP goes on and 6 gal of gas are in the back.


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## Bigwrench (Jan 8, 2016)

Bowhunter1661 said:


> Bigwrench said:
> 
> 
> > Wow ! I can't believe all the progress you have made since the day after Christmas when I last checked this thread !! Amazing work , I need to fly you down here , feed you well while you show me how to do all this on mine lol
> ...


That's exactly what I am doing with my build also (24v TM) , One battery on each side


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## Bowhunter1661 (Jan 8, 2016)

Bigwrench, even in my 1440 I felt the 45 lb 12 volt was too little at times. Very happy with my choice to go 24 volt and 70 lb. 

Snuck in a little more work tonight. Need to place my order and get navigation lights, switch panel, seat mounts and pedestals. 

Back lids are cut, just need to go buy more 1 1/2" angle to make the support deck under it.

Also repaired the torn bench. Should have waited though, that way I could have through bolted the base to the plate.... Oh well.


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## Bigwrench (Jan 8, 2016)

Bowhunter1661 said:


> Bigwrench, even in my 1440 I felt the 45 lb 12 volt was too little at times. Very happy with my choice to go 24 volt and 70 lb.


Yeah , I have several spare trolling motors but for this one its most likely going to be a 767 Brute which has been a workhorse or I'll get another 80 fortrex this fall when the big sales hit again on them. 
Really enjoying your build. 


Bass Fishin and Banjer Pickin !


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## Bowhunter1661 (Jan 9, 2016)

Dieing not having the supplies to work on my boat. I need more angle and tubing to finish the rear hatch, only problem is I am an hour from the metal supply company. Will have to wait till Monday when I am next door to the supply house for work to buy the materials. 

Until then, I worked for about a half hour on the trolling motor mount for the 70 lb Minn Kota Edge I bought from a buddy. Used my redneck engineering to bend it somewhat into proper shape. It will do though.

Please ignore the pink rug. I swear it's my finances


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## riverrat717 (Jan 9, 2016)

Bowhunter1661 said:


> Did a little work this evening, cut one hatch hole and built that sides battery tray. While cutting the second hole my electric tin sheers broke so that hatch did not get cut. Few more days and hatches will be in.



Depending on what you paid for them...you can get replacement blades for your double cuts. They don't like cutting corners, ie 90 deg turns. 
Nice job on your hand forming!


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## Bowhunter1661 (Jan 9, 2016)

Depending on what you paid for them...you can get replacement blades for your double cuts. They don't like cutting corners, ie 90 deg turns. 
Nice job on your hand forming![/quote]

For some reason I never thought of that. Just looked, bad thing is the replacement blades are $35.00 and a new unit only $45.00


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## jkapl001 (Jan 10, 2016)

What will you be towing with? Just seems like it is going to be tough to drop a tailgate with the tongue so short. 

Also I thought I made this post the other day, but can't find it. I am just curious to your plan, I have one I am getting ready to start and would love to shorten the trailer like that but am just concerned.


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## Bowhunter1661 (Jan 11, 2016)

jkapl001 said:


> What will you be towing with? Just seems like it is going to be tough to drop a tailgate with the tongue so short.
> 
> Also I thought I made this post the other day, but can't find it. I am just curious to your plan, I have one I am getting ready to start and would love to shorten the trailer like that but am just concerned.



I am towing with an 06 Silverado 1500. I actually slid the boat back a little bit back from the first photo. I double checked the tailgate would drop and it did just fine. I'll snap some pictures tonight. 

I was also worried but it appears it will work just fine. The only concern will be making tight turns in reverse. I broke my passenger side taillight with my previous trailer because the tongue was so short.


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## jkapl001 (Jan 11, 2016)

Glad it will work for you. Those super short trailer make backing up way harder. I had towed all my life and thought I was really really good at a ramp, they I bought a jetski, the hardest thing ever to back up in a long wheel based truck.


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## nicodebarmore (Jan 12, 2016)

Did you use solid rivets or blind rivets to assemble your deck structure? I know solid are needed for the hull, but can blinds be used with deck structure and to secure to interior ribs?


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## Bowhunter1661 (Jan 12, 2016)

I used nothing but blind. They hold extremely well. My last boat was all blind on the deck. Never had one come loose.


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## Bowhunter1661 (Jan 18, 2016)

Got the hatches this afternoon from R&R design. Excellent quality. If your looking for a hatch to install in an area that doesn't have a hole cut yet, or your dimensions match their factory sizes. I would highly recommend them. Very affordable when going the factory sized route. 

Need to pickup some hardware tomorrow as well as some silicone to complete the install. Other than that just waiting on aluminum to finish the rear deck. Then one more order for seat bases, pedestals, nav light and switch panel.


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## Fishfreek (Jan 19, 2016)

Bowhunter1661 said:


> Got the hatches this afternoon from R&R design. Very affordable when going the factory sized route.




I was looking at their website, where did you find the factory sizes?


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## Bowhunter1661 (Jan 20, 2016)

Fishfreek said:


> Bowhunter1661 said:
> 
> 
> > Got the hatches this afternoon from R&R design. Very affordable when going the factory sized route.
> ...




I had to call to get sizes. Turns out though, they're the company that makes cabelas hatches. Same exact sizes. 

Here's the link for sizes. https://www.cabelas.com/product/Custom-Hatch/699966.uts
Sm- $57.00
Md- $67.00
Lg- $78.00

If you order direct, you can choose between locking and non locking. As well as powder coated or non. Wish I would have powder coated mine as they didn't charge anything extra.


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## Bowhunter1661 (Jan 24, 2016)

Got a little bit of work done this evening. Got the order of 1x1x1/16 aluminum tube and finished the rear hatch lids. Placed an order Friday for pedestal bases, navigation lights, work lights, switch panel and a few other misc things. Moving on to wiring the boat then once it warms I will coat the inside with Total Boat Total Tread deck paint.


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## overboard (Jan 25, 2016)

Heck of a job you're doing there! =D>


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## riverrat717 (Jan 25, 2016)

Looking real good! Come on spring!! :beer:


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## Bowhunter1661 (Jan 25, 2016)

Thanks everyone, it has been a lot of fun thus far. I am however getting to the point where I just want to be finished though! Pedestal bases mounted up this evening. Had to cut the front base to fit between the hatches. Moving slowly but in the right direction.

My brother in law was always afraid riding in my boat because the only seat mounts were in the rear and up on the front deck. I added a base to the live well lid so he is a little more comfortable when we hit a wave or are cruising at higher speeds. What a nice guy I am thinking of my passengers... :roll: Also mounted the rear base so that when the back passenger swivels towards the front of the boat their feet aren't dangling off the bench. That is when they are using one of my 11" pedestals.


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## Bowhunter1661 (Feb 4, 2016)

Not a whole lot of progress. I'm kind of at a stand still waiting on warm weather. Mounted the switch panel and wired the front navigation lights. Boat is all cleaned up, sanded and wiped down with acetone. 

I do have a question for those more experienced boaters. The warmest weather in the forecast is this Saturday and Sunday. It will be in the mod 40's. Can I spray the self etching primer in this weather and spray the Rustoleum spray can type enamel paint? I plan on using flat paint so I really have no worries of orange peal or a foggy appearance.


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## Bowhunter1661 (Feb 4, 2016)

Also, I plan on installing SBT sheet vinyl after paint. So the paint will only be showing on the sides and hatch lids.


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## John_HB_S (Feb 4, 2016)

Looking good!!


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## PWC Muscle (Feb 6, 2016)

Bowhunter1661 said:


> uglymud said:
> 
> 
> > Look into hydro turf instead of carpet some nice stuff from what I've saw.
> ...



They are similar products. Both are made from a high endurance EVA foam. The Hydro-Turf product is highly durable and holds up very well over time. I won't speak on the Blacktip but can say I have had it as a test sample previously.


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## ZiptiesandJBWeld (Feb 6, 2016)

Bowhunter1661 said:


> The warmest weather in the forecast is this Saturday and Sunday. It will be in the mod 40's. Can I spray the self etching primer in this weather and spray the Rustoleum spray can type enamel paint? I plan on using flat paint so I really have no worries of orange peal or a foggy appearance.




I'm not going to claim to be the end-all, be-all of spray painting knowledge, but I'd say temps in the 40s is pushing it. You can probably get away with sneaking a coat or two in, but they're going to take a long time to cure.

I personally use a little propane torpedo heater to warm up my garage and paint surfaces during the winter. If you have access to something like that, your results will be better.


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## Bowhunter1661 (Feb 19, 2016)

Worked on the rig tonight. Wired up deck lights, compartment lights and aerator pump. compartment lights are wired on a separate switch circuit than the deck lights so that each can be turned on individually. 

Also painted the inside of the boat. That is everything but the tops of the bench and decks. Ended up using Rustoleum industrial in gloss Dark Machine Grey. Also, I plan on painting the exterior sometime in the summer. That's why I only did the inside.. I will be placing an order for SBT Black tip shortly. Hydro turf is wayyyyy to expensive with the added 3M adhesive. 

Inching closer and closer. Once the flooring is done I need to pull and clean the carb, replace fuel filter, gear lube and impeller.


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## Bowhunter1661 (Feb 23, 2016)

Wellll I sort of lied. I pulled the trigger on some hydro turf just now. I was thinking it would be around $450 with adhesive. Found that handy hydro turf link on Tinboats page. Ended up with "B" grade diamond in dark grey, with the 15% off I walked away at $190.00 for 5 sheets including shipping. Not too bad! Will likely just use spray adhesive. Any recomendations on spray type adhesives? This is the last thing I have to do in order to complete the build! Cannot wait to be done and start fishing!


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## Bowhunter1661 (Mar 5, 2016)

Received the shipment of hydroturf. Very happy with the stuff. The "B" cut does have some flaws and color issues, but, all in all not bad. Just need to glue it down. After that SHES DONE!!


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## Bowhunter1661 (Mar 6, 2016)

I have a buddy coming over tomorrow to help out with the glueing of the hydroturf. Until then, I got the motor ready to go. It hasn't run in at least a year, maybe two. Was stored with seafoamed fuel. Pulled the fuel filter, cleaned it and the filter housing. Hooked up my seafoamed fuel from last year. Pulled the cord and it fired on the first pull! Not bad for not running for such a long time. 

The tell tale wasn't pissing right away so I shut it down and found a mud dobber nest right at the tell tail outlet. After that, I let it idle for about an hour. For now I think I'll change the lower unit oil, water pump and let her rip.





Forgot to add this, my grandfather had about 8 holes in the transom below the water line. Most filled with caulk with the exception of the that had a transducer mounted to it. Thankfully they were all in about a 6 inch area. Rather than just filling them, I decided to cut a piece of UHM, then adhere it with a marine adhesive. No more holes drilled into the transom!


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## crazydrake (Apr 13, 2016)

How's the progress coming?


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## Bowhunter1661 (Jun 12, 2016)

Sorry guys, didn't realize anyone was actually following the build! I am pleased to say the boat is totally done. Ended up installing a Humminbird helix 7 SI. Had to do a bunch of work to the motor, but, now it runs like a top. Ended up having a failed reed cage seal. Once I replaced that and installed new Boyesen reeds it runs like a bat out of hell.


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## Bowhunter1661 (Jun 12, 2016)

My new house is really close to the Kankakee and desplains river. My next mod will likely be a custom tunnel.


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