# Plywood for flooring



## Douglasdzaster (Nov 1, 2022)

I’m getting ready to put the new floor in the jon boat I’ve been working on.
Its been many years since I’ve purchased any plywood so I’m kind of lumber dumb.
I ask my wife to pick up a sheet and make sure it’s not treated. She came home with RTD sheathing. Is this ok for aluminum? I’m going to glass both sides and edges.
Also I measured it and it’s 3/4” (I ask for 1/2”). She said they all where weird sizes. Lol
Im like do the math bless her heart.
What do you tin boaters say is thick enough to run across the ribs of a 16 footer?
Thanks everyone. Every time I have a question I can come here and it’s been a while because I had to put off the boat and do other things. Y’all have helped me with the trailer. Then the corrosion i found in the bottom which took me several hours of sanding. Now I’m ready to put a floor in and I’m excited to go fishing.
After I use it for a while I’m going to pull the motor and flip it to remove the bottom coating that’s starting to peel off and seal all seams and rivets then apply new coating. I’ll be asking about products then. While the motor is off I’ll probably go ahead and redo the transom then I’ll have a new 1983 16/52 boat.
All the advice is greatly appreciated.
A before picture of the floor.


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## FuzzyGrub (Nov 1, 2022)

I had to look up RTD plywood. Looks like it is replacing CDX in home constuction. It is rated for mild moisture contact. 

I wouldn't use it, even glassed in. 3/4" is probably overkill and heavy. Use foam between the ribs for flotation and floor support. If you have to use plywood, go 1/2" exterior grade, ACX. If the foam sheeting is the same thickness as the top of the ribs, you can go with a thin sheet of aluminum. I went with 0.040" thick aluminum over foam more than 10 years ago. Still going strong.


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## Douglasdzaster (Nov 1, 2022)

FuzzyGrub said:


> I had to look up RTD plywood. Looks like it is replacing CDX in home constuction. It is rated for mild moisture contact.
> 
> I wouldn't use it, even glassed in. 3/4" is probably overkill and heavy. Use foam between the ribs for flotation and floor support. If you have to use plywood, go 1/2" exterior grade, ACX. If the foam sheeting is the same thickness as the top of the ribs, you can go with a thin sheet of aluminum. I went with 0.040" thick aluminum over foam more than 10 years ago. Still going strong.


Thanks for the information. I looked it up and saw it wasn’t ground contact pressure treated but I still didn’t have a good feeling about it. The bench seat in the middle of the boat was removed before I got the boat so I have a bigger gap between the ribs there. I was thinking about foam for that reason. I’m using rivnuts so the floor can be easy to remove after it gets wet. It’ll be under cover when parked. I plan on keeping it dry after all the work I had to do from the previous owner using treated plywood and moisture stuck underneath. It was a mess. Debris under the ribs in the channels. Rusted hooks , bolts, screws Plastic baits etc.


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## FuzzyGrub (Nov 1, 2022)

Are you actually laying fiberglass or just sealing with epoxy?


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## airshot (Nov 1, 2022)

Why all the time and trouble to glass in the plywood?? You can find 5 ply exterior grade good one side in 1\2" thickness, used thatbin my 12 jon with no issues. The foam between ribs is a good idea. My jon had a number leaking rivets and actual holes rubbed thru the bottom from dragging it over sand and rocks. Repaired mine with 
" leak stopper" roof patch for exterior surfaces. Dries clear, this stuff is tough!! Availiable thru Home Depot and Tractor Supply stores. Did the inside and outside of my aluminum jon boat over 5 years ago, paint is worn off but the leak stopper has not leaked a drop and the boat still gets dragged over sand and rocks. Just used rustoleum enamal for a top coat after sealing the hull. A coat of paint with some traction grit sprinkled on the plywood floor. Floor is still solid !!


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## LDUBS (Nov 1, 2022)

I agree that 1/2 is all you need. I also had to look up RTD ply. What I read is that it is exterior and moisture resistant (I'm guess the glue is waterproof). Instead of glassing, consider saturating with epoxy. Not sure what floor cover you are going to use. If vinyl, wrap the edges and the ply will be protected for a very long time.


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## Douglasdzaster (Nov 1, 2022)

FuzzyGrub said:


> Are you actually laying fiberglass or just sealing with epoxy?


It’s just fiberglass resin.


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## Douglasdzaster (Nov 1, 2022)

airshot said:


> Why all the time and trouble to glass in the plywood?? You can find 5 ply exterior grade good one side in 1\2" thickness, used thatbin my 12 jon with no issues. The foam between ribs is a good idea. My jon had a number leaking rivets and actual holes rubbed thru the bottom from dragging it over sand and rocks. Repaired mine with
> " leak stopper" roof patch for exterior surfaces. Dries clear, this stuff is tough!! Availiable thru Home Depot and Tractor Supply stores. Did the inside and outside of my aluminum jon boat over 5 years ago, paint is worn off but the leak stopper has not leaked a drop and the boat still gets dragged over sand and rocks. Just used rustoleum enamal for a top coat after sealing the hull. A coat of paint with some traction grit sprinkled on the plywood floor. Floor is still solid !!


I’ve already used Total Boat epoxy for the inside. No leaks but had previous repairs that where looking suspicious. I’ll have to remember to leak stopper when I redo the bottom.
Thanks for the reply.


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## Douglasdzaster (Nov 1, 2022)

LDUBS said:


> I agree that 1/2 is all you need. I also had to look up RTD ply. What I read is that it is exterior and moisture resistant (I'm guess the glue is waterproof). Instead of glassing, consider saturating with epoxy. Not sure what floor cover you are going to use. If vinyl, wrap the edges and the ply will be protected for a very long time.


I got caught up watching a guy do several boats and he always coated the plywood with fiberglass resin on both sides and edges. Now y’all have me wondering if I should have purchased epoxy instead. Lol
The floor is going to be easily removable in sections and each section will have marine carpet with a moisture barrier on the back. It will be attached to the plywood with canvas snaps. I’m going to be able to disassemble everything for cleaning and drying.
I’m going to a lot of trouble but after what I had to do because of what I found when I removed the old treated plywood I’m making sure every thing stays clean and dry.


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## dcbz (Nov 2, 2022)

Douglasdzaster said:


> I got caught up watching a guy do several boats and he always coated the plywood with fiberglass resin on both sides and edges. Now y’all have me wondering if I should have purchased epoxy instead. Lol
> The floor is going to be easily removable in sections and each section will have marine carpet with a moisture barrier on the back. It will be attached to the plywood with canvas snaps. I’m going to be able to disassemble everything for cleaning and drying.
> I’m going to a lot of trouble but after what I had to do because of what I found when I removed the old treated plywood I’m making sure every thing stays clean and dry.


If it were my boat and I wanted to keep it for several years, I would order 1/2" marine grade plywood which can probably be ordered from Home Depot or your local lumberyard. If I only planned on keeping it a few years, I would just use exterior plywood. Marine plywood's layers (plies) are glued together with waterproof glue so the plywood will not delaminate when exposed to water. It is important to remember that with all plywood, even marine grade, the wood will still absorb water and rot if it is not coated. I would recommend coating both sides of the wood and the edges with a penetrating epoxy. Jamestown Distributors, and I'm sure others, have a product specifically for such a job: Penetrating Epoxy Sealer
You can paint over the epoxy sealer after it cures if you choose to do so. There are several topside boat paints that would suited to an application such as yours.


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## Douglasdzaster (Nov 2, 2022)

dcbz said:


> If it were my boat and I wanted to keep it for several years, I would order 1/2" marine grade plywood which can probably be ordered from Home Depot or your local lumberyard. If I only planned on keeping it a few years, I would just use exterior plywood. Marine plywood's layers (plies) are glued together with waterproof glue so the plywood will not delaminate when exposed to water. It is important to remember that with all plywood, even marine grade, the wood will still absorb water and rot if it is not coated. I would recommend coating both sides of the wood and the edges with a penetrating epoxy. Jamestown Distributors, and I'm sure others, have a product specifically for such a job: Penetrating Epoxy Sealer
> You can paint over the epoxy sealer after it cures if you choose to do so. There are several topside boat paints that would suited to an application such as yours.


I appreciate your advice. I’m on a tight budget on this one. The materials I do have I’ve collected over time. If I could I’d do the project completely different. Aluminum flooring everything. Lol 
I planNed on keeping it for as long as possible when I first got it. 
I’ve been using it as I go and after several fishing trips i discovered I could use something bigger for drifting. That being said I haven’t been in the river yet. Not until Im able to do the bottom because of the many hazards. Then I’ll know more about the future. Right now I’m trying to get back on the water.


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## Skunked again (Nov 2, 2022)

Heed the above advice.
In my opinion, if you want the wood to last longer, stay AWAY from carpet!
Why? It holds water. 
I’ve had both vinyl and a “liner” (think truck bed liner). In various boats. Both shed water, neither hold water. Neither where slick when wet, both cleaned easily. Blood from both me and fish, coffee, soda, all cleaned easily.
For my current boat, I put in EVA foam. Time will tell. First time using it.


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## FuzzyGrub (Nov 2, 2022)

Marine Grade Plywood Info


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## LDUBS (Nov 2, 2022)

Douglasdzaster said:


> I got caught up watching a guy do several boats and he always coated the plywood with fiberglass resin on both sides and edges. Now y’all have me wondering if I should have purchased epoxy instead. Lol
> The floor is going to be easily removable in sections and each section will have marine carpet with a moisture barrier on the back. It will be attached to the plywood with canvas snaps. I’m going to be able to disassemble everything for cleaning and drying.
> I’m going to a lot of trouble but after what I had to do because of what I found when I removed the old treated plywood I’m making sure every thing stays clean and dry.



I've read on other threads, I think, that using fiberglass resin by itself isn't the best choice. But I could be remembering wrong. Anyway, it is done and If it were mine I honestly would not overthink it or worry about it. Guys have been using ply floors in boats for years. The ply will need to eventually be replaced, but will likely outlast your carpet. Put your floor covering on and start using the boat. The fact you are storing it under cover makes a huge difference too. 

I agree marine ply is the ultimate. However, if it were mine, I would use exterior ply and save the $$. Both use waterproof glues. The big difference is marine play does not have voids. 

In case you are still deciding, I will say that marine vinyl is highly recommended for durability, maintenance ease, and protection. I have it on my ply floors (which have no treatment) and no issues. Other posters here with a lot more experience swear by it. I suspect it is more $$ than carpet, but have not checked. 

I think you are smart to do the floor in a way it can be pulled up and put back down if needed in the future.


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## FuzzyGrub (Nov 2, 2022)

My only plywood boat hangs from the ceiling, at camp.


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## Douglasdzaster (Nov 2, 2022)

LDUBS said:


> I've read on other threads, I think, that using fiberglass resin by itself isn't the best choice. But I could be remembering wrong. Anyway, it is done and If it were mine I honestly would not overthink it or worry about it. Guys have been using ply floors in boats for years. The ply will need to eventually be replaced, but will likely outlast your carpet. Put your floor covering on and start using the boat. The fact you are storing it under cover makes a huge difference too.
> 
> I agree marine ply is the ultimate. However, if it were mine, I would use exterior ply and save the $$. Both use waterproof glues. The big difference is marine play does not have voids.
> 
> ...


Thank you for the input. I checked on the vinyl on Amazon and it was expensive. I read in the Q&A someone said buy from Defender Marine so I went to their website and it’s a lot cheaper. I may be able to return the carpet , the tool to install snaps and get the vinyl for just a few more $.
My only question is does condensation or any water ever get between the vinyl and the wood? What type of adhesive did you use?
Sure would be a lot easier to get the catfish slime off the vinyl.


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## Douglasdzaster (Nov 2, 2022)

FuzzyGrub said:


> My only plywood boat hangs from the ceiling, at camp.
> 
> View attachment 112592


Nice!


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## Douglasdzaster (Nov 2, 2022)

Skunked again said:


> Heed the above advice.
> In my opinion, if you want the wood to last longer, stay AWAY from carpet!
> Why? It holds water.
> I’ve had both vinyl and a “liner” (think truck bed liner). In various boats. Both shed water, neither hold water. Neither where slick when wet, both cleaned easily. Blood from both me and fish, coffee, soda, all cleaned easily.
> For my current boat, I put in EVA foam. Time will tell. First time using it.


I found the vinyl on Defender Marine website. If I return the carpet and the tool I bought for the snaps to Amazon I think I can swing the vinyl.


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## Douglasdzaster (Nov 2, 2022)

O.K. I’m looking at Nautolex vinyl. Can anyone tell me if I have to use their adhesive or can I save a few $ on another adhesive?
EDIT: Well the vinyl got shot down by the admiral. I had looked back at the price of the carpet now. She reminded me that it was marked down and I had a $20 coupon. And she wants carpet anyway. This is my first aluminum but I’ve had a few bass boats and no how to take care of carpet so we’ll see how long it last. It’ll be connected with snaps anyway so if it turns to $*/+ I’ll unsnap it and do something different then.
I really appreciate all advice and knowledge being shared with me.


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## LDUBS (Nov 2, 2022)

Douglasdzaster said:


> O.K. I’m looking at Nautolex vinyl. Can anyone tell me if I have to use their adhesive or can I save a few $ on another adhesive?
> EDIT: Well the vinyl got shot down by the admiral. I had looked back at the price of the carpet now. She reminded me that it was marked down and I had a $20 coupon. And she wants carpet anyway. This is my first aluminum but I’ve had a few bass boats and no how to take care of carpet so we’ll see how long it last. It’ll be connected with snaps anyway so if it turns to $*/+ I’ll unsnap it and do something different then.
> I really appreciate all advice and knowledge being shared with me.



I suspect carpet is used more than any other floor cover in small boats. Enjoy. 

BTW, I can't answer about the vinyl adhesive because I didn't install it. It came with the boat.


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## Skunked again (Nov 2, 2022)

For your knowledge, the vinyl I bought was from cabelas. 
Exact color and texture, for a boat that was already some 6 years old.

I’m feeling you with the budget!!! I’m down to $135.24 for this build. Luckily I’m pretty much done. Even the three new 14’ crappie rods came out of the budget. 

I wish you the best!!


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## richg99 (Nov 3, 2022)

Use what you have (exterior plywood) and don't worry about it. The cost of marine plywood vs exterior will be prohibitive, and to no special value on a deck/floor. 

I've done carpet; I've done vinyl. I preferred the vinyl, but, primarily because hooks didn't get stuck in it. Land a fish; spend ten minutes getting your lure back from the carpet monster. 

Heck, some guys just paint the exterior plywood and sprinkle sand on it to make it non-skid. Have fun. 
Keep Momma happy and go fishing.


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## Vol423 (Nov 3, 2022)

I have a 20' boat with marine plywood flooring with vinyl surface. At 10 years old the plywood started rotting in places. I replaced it with 1/8" checker plate aluminum, scuffed it with a big coarse rotary cup brush to remove the shine. Best floor ever. It washes down with my on-board wash down system. If I get a stain I hit it with the cup brush. Instant fix! Material cost $700.


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## FuzzyGrub (Nov 3, 2022)

I will probably rebuild the '67 Starcraft floor this year. It will be exterior plywood, but hope to be able to get a 5' X 9' piece Otherwise it takes three sheets of 4' X 8 '. 

I can't say I've ever seen marine plywood at any lumber yard/store. It is probably a special order only, and these days that probably means a long wait. Curious, if anyone has current pricing on a 1/2" X 4' X 8' sheet.


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## SAABologist (Nov 3, 2022)

I recently redid my 16' Mirrocraft deck with new plywood. I kept it the same as factory floor plan so I could use the old rotten plywood as templates. I used 1/2" B/C exterior, not treated. (Marine ply was $200/sheet last year.) I coated the new plywood, including the edges, with epoxy resin diluted with acetone, applying 3 coats. I used 3/4" B/C plywood where it had been used before. Then I covered everything in marine vinyl flooring. 

What I would change is to NOT use the epoxy resin. Why? Because then you have to use the very expensive and difficult to apply contact cement glue for marine vinyl ($60-$100/gallon). If I had just treated the plywood with linseed oil, I could use the easier and less expensive glue for installing the marine vinyl on plywood (like a pontoon boat). 

I also now realize that this new plywood is going to last for years and years and years. Even if not treated with epoxy. And I do use it in salt water. But I keep the boat covered, rinsed in freshwater, and dry. 

I think it's easy to go overboard (haha) worrying about how long the B/C plywood will last. If you do a good install and treat the wood with the good linseed mix, I think it would be fine for years to come. 

Good luck!


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## FuzzyGrub (Nov 3, 2022)

Doug, It sounds like the ultimate floor for you is vinyl, with a snap in carpet for when you take the Mrs out.


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## jdsgrog (Nov 3, 2022)

I really think it depends on a number of factors and your budget. The more water and humidity it's exposed to and the more frequent you are out will make a difference. Also, how it's stored - whether outdoors or indoors. And not to mention goals of how long you want it to last. Obviously, you get what you pay for - the better the plywood, the longer it will last when exposed to water.

1/2" plywood should suffice. I believe epoxy is more a luxury than necessity since it's pretty expensive. If the floor is not structural to the boat, I would even consider buying BCX or even a lower grade exterior plywood. But I would build it to make it easier to pull the floor out more easily if needed knowing that you probably will need to do so in a few years (or more). 

I live up north, store my boat indoors, and only go out occasionally. I did use marine grade once, but it was overkill - but good stuff. But I've had success with ACX and BCX without needing to replace the floor or plywood components lasting years. I also used cheap indoor/outdoor carpet with good results. Dries quickly and UV resistant - but thinner than most marine grade carpets.


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## LDUBS (Nov 3, 2022)

Another ply treatment discussed on this forum is "old timers mix". The formula is one part spar varnish (or spar urethane), one part boiled linseed oil, and two parts mineral spirits. Put it on heavy until it is no longer absorbed then wipe off the excess. I've not used it but others have reported good results. Doing a forum search for "old timers formula" will yield a lot of info.


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## -CN- (Nov 4, 2022)

Douglasdzaster said:


> I’m getting ready to put the new floor in the jon boat I’ve been working on.
> Its been many years since I’ve purchased any plywood so I’m kind of lumber dumb.
> I ask my wife to pick up a sheet and make sure it’s not treated. She came home with RTD sheathing. Is this ok for aluminum? I’m going to glass both sides and edges.
> Also I measured it and it’s 3/4” (I ask for 1/2”). She said they all where weird sizes. Lol
> ...


Hear me out on this one. I tested the following method extensively with my previous build. I've documented it here somewhere a long time ago. Been awhile since I've posted.

It's been mentioned to use foam between the ribs. For sure do this - it should be 1-1/2" thick to build up the floor to make it even with the ribs. This will provide all of the support for weight of humans and gear that you will need. After this you don't have to worry about what weatherproofing method you are going to use on plywood or what type of plywood to buy. Instead of plywood, go out and buy yourself a sheet of 3/4" foam insulation - the same stuff you just used between the ribs except in 3/4". The weight of this stuff is practically zero. This is what you are going to lay down as your finished floor. Cut this to fit your floor side to side and front to back. To make it look and feel nice and to protect it you can now use either marine carpet or vinyl. Cover the surface by gluing the carpet or vinyl down with flooring adhesive and wrap it around the sides to the back where you will again glue it and then staple it. Yes the staples will want to pull out but they are not there to hold it down - they will hold it laterally until the glue dries and that will glue the staples in place as well.

What I have just described is to use foam insulation board wrapped in carpet for your floor. It has no structural properties so that's why you need to have a flat supporting surface underneath it by filling in the voids between the ribs with foam. "The foam is light and will blow out of the boat going down the highway!" you say. All it takes is a panhead screw - I used exterior grade cabinet screws, and you screw through the carpet and foam and into the floor ribs - make sure they're not too long to protrude all the way out the bottom of the boat. A regular screw will pierce the aluminum rib all by itself, no need to predrill. A couple screws in each rib will keep this floor in place.

This floor weighs nothing other than the weight of the carpet and it is completely weatherproof. It's a nice padded surface to stand on all day too. I did my whole boat - floor and decks in this fashion - I only substituted plywood of the same thickness anywhere that I knew I would need structure like for a trolling motor or a hatch lid. I even glued plywood and foam board together edge-to-edge and wrapped it in carpet all as one piece. The boat got used by me and a friend 2-3 times a week for 3 summers like this and the foam board has held up better than the plywood areas. No, it does not "crush" or flatten under weight. No, the screw heads do not pop through - the carpet prevents this. You simply have a small dimple where the screw is. That's it.

You want a light weight and maintenance free deck or floor - use foam board.


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## Stand Up (Nov 4, 2022)

-CN- said:


> Hear me out on this one. I tested the following method extensively with my previous build. I've documented it here somewhere a long time ago. Been awhile since I've posted.
> 
> It's been mentioned to use foam between the ribs. For sure do this - it should be 1-1/2" thick to build up the floor to make it even with the ribs. This will provide all of the support for weight of humans and gear that you will need. After this you don't have to worry about what weatherproofing method you are going to use on plywood or what type of plywood to buy. Instead of plywood, go out and buy yourself a sheet of 3/4" foam insulation - the same stuff you just used between the ribs except in 3/4". The weight of this stuff is practically zero. This is what you are going to lay down as your finished floor. Cut this to fit your floor side to side and front to back. To make it look and feel nice and to protect it you can now use either marine carpet or vinyl. Cover the surface by gluing the carpet or vinyl down with flooring adhesive and wrap it around the sides to the back where you will again glue it and then staple it. Yes the staples will want to pull out but they are not there to hold it down - they will hold it laterally until the glue dries and that will glue the staples in place as well.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the advice in your post. What a great solution.


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## Douglasdzaster (Nov 5, 2022)

-CN- said:


> Hear me out on this one. I tested the following method extensively with my previous build. I've documented it here somewhere a long time ago. Been awhile since I've posted.
> 
> It's been mentioned to use foam between the ribs. For sure do this - it should be 1-1/2" thick to build up the floor to make it even with the ribs. This will provide all of the support for weight of humans and gear that you will need. After this you don't have to worry about what weatherproofing method you are going to use on plywood or what type of plywood to buy. Instead of plywood, go out and buy yourself a sheet of 3/4" foam insulation - the same stuff you just used between the ribs except in 3/4". The weight of this stuff is practically zero. This is what you are going to lay down as your finished floor. Cut this to fit your floor side to side and front to back. To make it look and feel nice and to protect it you can now use either marine carpet or vinyl. Cover the surface by gluing the carpet or vinyl down with flooring adhesive and wrap it around the sides to the back where you will again glue it and then staple it. Yes the staples will want to pull out but they are not there to hold it down - they will hold it laterally until the glue dries and that will glue the staples in place as well.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the post. Awesome set up. My boat is a 16/52 and I believe I measured the ribs at 2”. I need to double check that. I have 12 grandkids and I tame them fishing when one or two come to visit. Last time my 7 year old grandson and I where on the crappie. He fought a nice one and while I was unhooking it with my back turned he stood up on the rear bench and jumped on to the floor. Made a loud boom when he hit the plywood and startled the you know what out of me. Needless to say that was it for the crappie. Would the foam hold up to my grandkids? I know it will be quieter.
Id love to build mine like yours. The less wait the better that 40 hp is going to push. I priced the 2” sheet of foam board and it’s almost twice as much as a 1/2” sheet of plywood. I’m on a tight budget with the admiral once she saw I was actually spending money on the build. Lol So I’m going to have to run the numbers. Let me know if you think it would hold up because I’ll bet it’s going to happen again.


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## Douglasdzaster (Nov 6, 2022)

Does anyone know about rivnuts? I want to attach 1/2” plywood to the ribs in my boat and be able to remove it easily. I don’t know how thick the aluminum is that the ribs are made of and im not sure how to measure it.
If I used a caliper wher it curves out at the top of the rib would that be correct?


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## Skunked again (Nov 7, 2022)

types of rivnuts - Google Search



Try above link. Look on YouTube also. 
I put some in my boat, first time using them. Look up diy Rivnut tool. You do not need to buy a dedicated tool for this, especially if you’ll only be doing a few of them.
Metal shouldn’t be any thicker than .090.


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## Douglasdzaster (Nov 7, 2022)

Skunked again said:


> types of rivnuts - Google Search
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thank you for the help, Youre right I’m only going to put a few in the boat and that’s it.


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## -CN- (Nov 7, 2022)

Douglasdzaster said:


> Thanks for the post. Awesome set up. My boat is a 16/52 and I believe I measured the ribs at 2”. I need to double check that. I have 12 grandkids and I tame them fishing when one or two come to visit. Last time my 7 year old grandson and I where on the crappie. He fought a nice one and while I was unhooking it with my back turned he stood up on the rear bench and jumped on to the floor. Made a loud boom when he hit the plywood and startled the you know what out of me. Needless to say that was it for the crappie. Would the foam hold up to my grandkids? I know it will be quieter.
> Id love to build mine like yours. The less wait the better that 40 hp is going to push. I priced the 2” sheet of foam board and it’s almost twice as much as a 1/2” sheet of plywood. I’m on a tight budget with the admiral once she saw I was actually spending money on the build. Lol So I’m going to have to run the numbers. Let me know if you think it would hold up because I’ll bet it’s going to happen again.


The 2" foam you are inquiring about should go between the ribs and the finished floor over the top. The noise the plywood made in your boat is because you didn't have foam underneath it. You'll want that foam there regardless of what your finished surface is. At my lumber yard, 3/4" foam board is $18 while 1/2" CDX plywood is $38.


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## airshot (Nov 7, 2022)

Have used rivnuts many times with great sucess...you might have some issues with the radius on top of the rib when drawing the rivnuts down tight but I think they will work fine. If you can find fine threaded rivnuts go that route..under vibration fine threads are much less prone to vibrating loose. As mentioned make your own tool for setting the rivnuts, far cheaper!! When drilling the hole for the rivnut, be sure to make it as snug as possible, sloppy fit in the hole lessens the grip of the rivnuts!! Good luck...we need some pics when your done...


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## Douglasdzaster (Nov 7, 2022)

-CN- said:


> The 2" foam you are inquiring about should go between the ribs and the finished floor over the top. The noise the plywood made in your boat is because you didn't have foam underneath it. You'll want that foam there regardless of what your finished surface is. At my lumber yard, 3/4" foam board is $18 while 1/2" CDX plywood is $38.


I’m getting 1/2” plywood for $26 and 2” foam is $40 hear. I was just committed on prices of things lately. Especially when on a budget.
I’m sticking with plywood. The middle seat is removed creating a 26 3/4” gap between those ribs. The boat is a 1983 and a plywood floor will help brace things. I’ve looked for aluminum hat channel I could notch over the ribs but the biggest I can find is 1 3/4”.


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## Douglasdzaster (Nov 7, 2022)

airshot said:


> Have used rivnuts many times with great sucess...you might have some issues with the radius on top of the rib when drawing the rivnuts down tight but I think they will work fine. If you can find fine threaded rivnuts go that route..under vibration fine threads are much less prone to vibrating loose. As mentioned make your own tool for setting the rivnuts, far cheaper!! When drilling the hole for the rivnut, be sure to make it as snug as possible, sloppy fit in the hole lessens the grip of the rivnuts!! Good luck...we need some pics when your done...


Thanks for the information I appreciate it. I’m going to have 3 seams in the floor. It’s 52” wide so have to cat the plywood differently only laying 48” at the time. I’ll definitely post picture. I have my material list except I was thinking about tying the seems together with something. That ides may go out the window since I’ll have riv nuts in place.


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## thill (Nov 8, 2022)

For what it's worth, I have had extremely good success with cutting my plywood, and they spraying it with Thompson's Wood Preserver. It has lasted for years and years for me, so far.

I am about to add a floor to a 1648 Tracker I just picked up. I find that cut pile marine carpet doesn't grab hooks like the closed-loop stuff. Just a suggestion. I like it more than the vinyl flooring because it is quieter in the back coves, and more comfortable underfoot, especially if you like to go barefoot in the summer.


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## Douglasdzaster (Nov 8, 2022)

Has anyone ever used Total Boat penetrating epoxy? I have ordered a half gallon. I’m doing new Plywood flooring 52” wide 10’ long. The product can be diluted for better penetration.
Do I have enough? I’d like to have some left to do the front deck which is about 3’.
EDIT: Please excuse the post. I couldn’t find coverage information anywhere until I made this post. Then I tried a different search and found a chart. Looks like I should be good and hopefully have enough left for doing the front deck which is next. After some fishing though. Lol


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## Douglasdzaster (Nov 8, 2022)

thill said:


> For what it's worth, I have had extremely good success with cutting my plywood, and they spraying it with Thompson's Wood Preserver. It has lasted for years and years for me, so far.
> 
> I am about to add a floor to a 1648 Tracker I just picked up. I find that cut pile marine carpet doesn't grab hooks like the closed-loop stuff. Just a suggestion. I like it more than the vinyl flooring because it is quieter in the back coves, and more comfortable underfoot, especially if you like to go barefoot in the summer.


That’s the route I was headed and this morning the admiral (who over sees my boat budget) said to spend money on the epoxy to insure that it last. I didn’t argue.
I have had the carpet boxed up in a roll for a while waiting. And I do believe it’s the cut pile.
I appreciate the information. I didn’t even think about the cut pile being easier on hooks.
Good luck on your Tracker.


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## Douglasdzaster (Nov 8, 2022)

I ordered the penetrating epoxy. The traditional stuff then found out this weekend starts cold weather for at least a week. Not getting above 60 degrees that is. Welcome to more Texas weather.
I managed to cancel my order and get the cold weather stuff so I can keep moving on with the project.


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## SAABologist (Nov 9, 2022)

Douglasdzaster said:


> Has anyone ever used Total Boat penetrating epoxy? I have ordered a half gallon. I’m doing new Plywood flooring 52” wide 10’ long. The product can be diluted for better penetration.
> Do I have enough? I’d like to have some left to do the front deck which is about 3’.
> EDIT: Please excuse the post. I couldn’t find coverage information anywhere until I made this post. Then I tried a different search and found a chart. Looks like I should be good and hopefully have enough left for doing the front deck which is next. After some fishing though. Lol


I researched all this pretty well when I did my boat last year. I bought the most inexpensive epoxy I could find and diluted it with acetone until watery. Then did 2 or 3 coats. As another forum member described years ago, the acetone opens the grain and the epoxy impregnates the plywood. Do the edges too of course. I am sure my plywood will not rot for ages and ages. 

Then, as I said in this thread, I would never do it again. It's overkill and makes it so you have to use contact cement for putting vinyl flooring over fiberglass, instead of the much cheaper and easier glue for plywood. 

Buena suerte,


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## HOOKIGAN (Nov 9, 2022)

Douglasdzaster said:


> Has anyone ever used Total Boat penetrating epoxy? I have ordered a half gallon. I’m doing new Plywood flooring 52” wide 10’ long. The product can be diluted for better penetration.
> Do I have enough? I’d like to have some left to do the front deck which is about 3’.
> EDIT: Please excuse the post. I couldn’t find coverage information anywhere until I made this post. Then I tried a different search and found a chart. Looks like I should be good and hopefully have enough left for doing the front deck which is next. After some fishing though. Lol


My father and I have worked with all of the different brands of penetrating epoxy while restoring a couple of 1959 Chris-Crafts and the one we like the most is Smiths CPES. Recently we have tried System 3 penetrating epoxy and it performed similar to the Total Boat. Even with thinning it down with acetone or denatured alcohol we had similar results with both products. They appear to be just a thinned epoxy when applied, I'm sure they penetrate more than regular epoxy but there's no comparison to how Smiths CPES penetrates. The Smiths CPES absorbs into the wood much faster and thoroughly. The Smiths is very expensive compared to the Total Boat/System 3. Since we are discussing plywood flooring in an aluminum boat I'm sure any type of penetrating epoxy would be more than overkill to seal the plywood. I would focus more on the end grain than the face. Maybe 1 coat on the face and several coats on the end grain until it stops absorbing.


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## Douglasdzaster (Nov 9, 2022)

HOOKIGAN said:


> My father and I have worked with all of the different brands of penetrating epoxy while restoring a couple of 1959 Chris-Crafts and the one we like the most is Smiths CPES. Recently we have tried System 3 penetrating epoxy and it performed similar to the Total Boat. Even with thinning it down with acetone or denatured alcohol we had similar results with both products. They appear to be just a thinned epoxy when applied, I'm sure they penetrate more than regular epoxy but there's no comparison to how Smiths CPES penetrates. The Smiths CPES absorbs into the wood much faster and thoroughly. The Smiths is very expensive compared to the Total Boat/System 3. Since we are discussing plywood flooring in an aluminum boat I'm sure any type of penetrating epoxy would be more than overkill to seal the plywood. I would focus more on the end grain than the face. Maybe 1 coat on the face and several coats on the end grain until it stops absorbing.


I was just reading more information about the Total boat and they were comparing there product to Smiths CPES which I also knew nothing about until I read your post, 
Thanks for the information.


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## Douglasdzaster (Nov 9, 2022)

SAABologist said:


> I researched all this pretty well when I did my boat last year. I bought the most inexpensive epoxy I could find and diluted it with acetone until watery. Then did 2 or 3 coats. As another forum member described years ago, the acetone opens the grain and the epoxy impregnates the plywood. Do the edges too of course. I am sure my plywood will not rot for ages and ages.
> 
> Then, as I said in this thread, I would never do it again. It's overkill and makes it so you have to use contact cement for putting vinyl flooring over fiberglass, instead of the much cheaper and easier glue for plywood.
> 
> Buena suerte,


Thanks for sharing. I figured it was overkill for my application. Especially since Im making the flooring easily detachable and the carpet removable just so I can keep things dry and clean.


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## Douglasdzaster (Nov 9, 2022)

I unloaded the 1/2” plywood for flooring and the 2” foam board that’s going between the ribs. Epoxy has shipped. I’ve had the carpet still in the box for 2 months. Riv nuts have shipped for making the plywood easily removable.
That‘s everything except….. I was planning on using snaps on the carpet until I was straightening up my shop today and ran across some Velcro with adhesive on the back , which I used to secure the seats that have storage underneath. It’s been there a year and I still have to get a good grip and pull hard to open them. I only put two pieces of the stuff on the corners.
Now I’m considering it instead of the snaps. They‘re on the way as well but can be returned.
I want the carpet removable but which is going the be more secure?
What do y’all think?


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## Douglasdzaster (Nov 13, 2022)

Heeeeeeeeeeelp!
I cut the foam board and even cutting it narrow enough so it would only be on the floor not the rivets it sites higher than the ribs by just under 1/4”. Obviously my 2” measurement of the ribs was wrong. If I cut the plywood to fit down on the ribs will the foam board compress any? Or I should have remeasured after coating the boat. I really wanted the weight on the ribs. If not. Any ideas how I can shave the foam board?


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## richg99 (Nov 14, 2022)

How about adding 1/4 inch of material on top of the ribs to make it all level out?


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## FuzzyGrub (Nov 14, 2022)

richg99 said:


> How about adding 1/4 inch of material on top of the ribs to make it all level out?


That is what I would do at this point. Preferably find some polymer strips instead of having to seal wood strips.


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## airshot (Nov 14, 2022)

Get a roll of urethane weather stripping in 1\4" thickness by whatever width you need. It should be sticky on one side, so add this to your ribs. Being urethane it wont be bothered by water.


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## LDUBS (Nov 15, 2022)

richg99 said:


> How about adding 1/4 inch of material on top of the ribs to make it all level out?



X2 (or 3). I would do this but might add the spacer strips to the bottom of the ply where it sits on the ribs. No need adding more fasteners to the ribs than necessary to secure the deck. Not an issue if you are using some kind of adhesive strips as previously suggested.


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## cyclops2 (Nov 20, 2022)

NO CARPET WITH..............LOOPS !!! Hooks are cut out. so BARE FEET ARE HAPPY.


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## Douglasdzaster (Nov 28, 2022)

Thanks everyone for the great ideas. I was thinking weather stripping. I want to keep the floor removable for when ever it does get wet. The old boat has it’s dings , dents , and battle scares but hasn't leaked yet. I do a lot to prevent such things. Anyway it doesn’t drain completely and I removed a lot of corrosion and started from the ground up. I can remove the floor and blow it out. Let everything dry and not worry about it.
Its 52” bottom makes for a 54” floor on top of the ribs so I cut three pieces to fit. Just finished today. After sanding and penetrating epoxy treatment they’ll be ready for the carpet to be snapped in. Then I AM GOING FISHING! After a while redo the front casting deck. It’s time.
Im looking for ideas for fastening systems I can seal for anchor points to the 15/32” plywood. Trolling motor Batteries fuel tank strap etc. Rather than using screws.
When I get back from fishing I back in the driveway and completely strip down the boat. I remove everything except for the 40 hp motor which has a locking bar on it. Then cover it up.
Riv nuts don’t work on plywood. I’ve looked at threaded inserts but haven’t seen any stainless that’s for soft wood.


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## Douglasdzaster (Nov 29, 2022)

airshot said:


> Get a roll of urethane weather stripping in 1\4" thickness by whatever width you need. It should be sticky on one side, so add this to your ribs. Being urethane it wont be bothered by water.


I’ve looked for urethra weather stripping and keep getting the dense foam stripping. Would that be strong enough. I have leftover 2” foam board but it’ll be difficult to cut 1/4” strips. Guess I could turn on the table saw and make pink snow. Lol
I even thought about closed cell backer rod and spray adhesive.


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## LDUBS (Nov 29, 2022)

Douglasdzaster said:


> Thanks everyone for the great ideas. I was thinking weather stripping. I want to keep the floor removable for when ever it does get wet. The old boat has it’s dings , dents , and battle scares but hasn't leaked yet. I do a lot to prevent such things. Anyway it doesn’t drain completely and I removed a lot of corrosion and started from the ground up. I can remove the floor and blow it out. Let everything dry and not worry about it.
> Its 52” bottom makes for a 54” floor on top of the ribs so I cut three pieces to fit. Just finished today. After sanding and penetrating epoxy treatment they’ll be ready for the carpet to be snapped in. Then I AM GOING FISHING! After a while redo the front casting deck. It’s time.
> Im looking for ideas for fastening systems I can seal for anchor points to the 15/32” plywood. Trolling motor Batteries fuel tank strap etc. Rather than using screws.
> When I get back from fishing I back in the driveway and completely strip down the boat. I remove everything except for the 40 hp motor which has a locking bar on it. Then cover it up.
> Riv nuts don’t work on plywood. I’ve looked at threaded inserts but haven’t seen any stainless that’s for soft wood.




If I'm understanding correctly, you want to be able to frequently remove the ply flooring. I'm not visualizing how you would use threaded inserts to help do that. 

How about some kind of hold downs at the seat boxes. Use alum angle with a few fasteners of choice into the vertical part of the alum seat box. However, this might not work depending how the three sections of flooring are arranged.


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## Douglasdzaster (Nov 30, 2022)

LDUBS said:


> If I'm understanding correctly, you want to be able to frequently remove the ply flooring. I'm not visualizing how you would use threaded inserts to help do that.
> 
> How about some kind of hold downs at the seat boxes. Use alum angle with a few fasteners of choice into the vertical part of the alum seat box. However, this might not work depending how the three sections of flooring are arranged.
> 
> View attachment 112899


I failed to mention the middle seat was removed by the previous owner. I have a casting deck with seat on the front ( which will be rebuilt next).
The boat is 52” wide at the bottom making it 54” on top of the ribs. I didn’t want to just lay the plywood 48” wide so I cut three sheets making the two seems meet on top of ribs. The foam board supports the floor in the gap where the middle seat was. Still my use a piece of aluminum I have (old sign)in that spot for more support.
I also changed plans today after thinking about it. The corrosion I removed because of all the screws the previous owner put in the ribs. Instead of drilling holes in the ribs for aluminum riv nuts I found stainless steel T-nuts and screws , also stainless mending plates I’ll be tying the plywood together with. That and after batteries , fuel tank, (also anchored with T-nuts) and gear the plywood flooring will stay put. Still thinking about using some angle where it meets the casting deck. In the stern where it meets the seats/storage the rib is close enough I don’t need angle.
Now instead of carpeting each section I can do the whole thing in one piece with the snaps. No wood screws and no holes in the boat and I’ll still be able to remove for inspection , cleaning etc.
Behind the rear seat in the aft I’ll be using aluminum angle to secure flooring where eventually I’ll install a removable multiple rod holder for drifting and trolling. That’s still in its planning stage. Right now I have 4 Drift masters on each side.
I’m not mounting any accessories back with any screws in the aluminum.
I’m using industrial Velcro for the rod carrier on the gunnel. I had everything mounted with stainless steel screws previously. Now that I have a little knowledge under my belt I’m not having anything to cause corrosion.
Thanks for the reply and mentioning the angle it’s greatly appreciated.


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## Douglasdzaster (Dec 1, 2022)

I found some stout weather stripping for the ribs. It’s ordered. When the binder plates get here I’ll drill all the holes in the plywood then do the epoxy. I’m also adding some pieces of aluminum angle as suggested by LDubs.
I’ll be using rivnuts for that and other things like rod holders. I have aluminum rivnuts and aluminum screws. I just read a thread with several people that have been using rivnuts for years and the general consensus seemed that if your boat is freshwater only like mine that stainless steel is a better option because of the aluminum ones having some failures. Some even use aluminum rivnuts with stainless screws which they remove from time to time as I will. I like the idea of stainless steel holding my multiple rod rod holders.
Should I do stainless? Maybe use 5200 when installing the rivnuts for a barrier?
The stainless screws I removed that I had in it for over a year had no corrosion on the screws or the boat. I’m wondering if I over reacted after finding the corrosion and rusted screws under the old flooring.


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## Douglasdzaster (Dec 4, 2022)

Douglasdzaster said:


> I found some stout weather stripping for the ribs. It’s ordered. When the binder plates get here I’ll drill all the holes in the plywood then do the epoxy. I’m also adding some pieces of aluminum angle as suggested by LDubs.
> I’ll be using rivnuts for that and other things like rod holders. I have aluminum rivnuts and aluminum screws. I just read a thread with several people that have been using rivnuts for years and the general consensus seemed that if your boat is freshwater only like mine that stainless steel is a better option because of the aluminum ones having some failures. Some even use aluminum rivnuts with stainless screws which they remove from time to time as I will. I like the idea of stainless steel holding my multiple rod rod holders.
> Should I do stainless? Maybe use 5200 when installing the rivnuts for a barrier?
> The stainless screws I removed that I had in it for over a year had no corrosion on the screws or the boat. I’m wondering if I over reacted after finding the corrosion and rusted screws under the old flooring.


I bought an assortment of aluminum hardware. The riv nuts will hold up when installed properly.
After putting the last coat of epoxy on the first side of the flooring pieces I started looking at what w left on the boat as far as screws , bolts etc. I found some that where installed before I got the boat. The screws holding the anchor light socket. I saw some corrosion around them so I removed the socket and sure enough wear the screws where the aluminum was corroded around them. Then there is an led spot light on each side of the transom. Same thing with those bolts. I added a fuel water separator when I redone the fuel system and used stainless steel bolts and they look fine after 18 months but they will be replaced by aluminum rivnuts as well. Hopefully the epoxy won’t be tacky tomorrow so I can flip the piece and finish. 
In the meantime I’m working on ideas for multiple rod holders. I’m thinking of using aluminum T track. I know it’ll work mounted on both sides of the transom and hold two rods each for trolling. I’m trying to figure out the gunnels though for drift fishing. My boat has the old jon boat round at the top gunnels they’re 1 inch. Currently I have individual drift masters on the front deck and again on the transom. If I could get a rail set up put together on the sides I’d be set. Anyway any ideas are appreciated or if you have this type of rig share a pic.


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## thill (Dec 13, 2022)

I might go with 3/8" wood slats glued to the bottom of the plywood over the stringers, if you can measure and fit them exactly. Then seal just like the rest of the flooring.

I've found 5/16 aluminum rivets with aluminum mandrels to work well where screws corroded out. If needed, they make backer washers, if you can get access to the backside. Those make the connection very strong, and you only need a 3/16" drill bit to remove, if you ever need to.


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## Douglasdzaster (Dec 15, 2022)

Sorry I haven’t been on here in a while. I actually started a new thread about rebuilding the boat since that’s what this is turning into. I’ve been posting on it. The plywood is all cut to fit with penetrating epoxy applied. It’s finally cured,edges and all sealed up tight.
I’m planning on starting to put the puzzle together today.
Ill be updating the rebuild post and adding pictures.


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## airshot (Thursday at 4:39 PM)

LDUBS said:


> If I'm understanding correctly, you want to be able to frequently remove the ply flooring. I'm not visualizing how you would use threaded inserts to help do that.
> 
> How about some kind of hold downs at the seat boxes. Use alum angle with a few fasteners of choice into the vertical part of the alum seat box. However, this might not work depending how the three sections of flooring are arranged.
> 
> View attachment 112899


From this pic, the plywood floor would go on top of the angle. The angle will support the weight and just a couple screws are all that is need to keep the floor in place.


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## Douglasdzaster (Thursday at 6:23 PM)

airshot said:


> From this pic, the plywood floor would go on top of the angle. The angle will support the weight and just a couple screws are all that is need to keep the floor in place.


I have everything in place but the angle. The plywood is supported by the foam board and ribs. The angle will be used to hold it in place just Incase I need the help of the foam board to float. Lol
Also I’m tying in a couple of things to some of the angle like a platform for portable fuel tank and one for the trolling battery. That way I’m not putting any screw holes in the sealed plywood. Tried to post some pics but my net is moving slow today. I’ll try again.


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## LDUBS (Thursday at 11:20 PM)

airshot said:


> From this pic, the plywood floor would go on top of the angle. The angle will support the weight and just a couple screws are all that is need to keep the floor in place.



From the diagram I attached, the angle would be on top of the ply - like holding the ply down. Remove the angle to remove the ply. Your approach of having the lip under the ply would provide extra support along that edge & just remove a couple screws to remove the ply. I can see the advantage. I think either way will get the job done.


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