# 14' Semi-V North West Fishing Machine



## Alex_c (Jul 28, 2012)

Have had this boat for about a year. Paid $1300 for tub, trailer and a nice running 1984 35hp pull start Evinrude with remote. This thing leaked like a sieve and had a few hairline cracks around the ribs towards the stern. Previous owner added a tonne of weight to the front and the repair job he did to the middle bench failed causing the lower portion of the hull to flex and stress at various points. After tearing everything apart, there are only a few areas that will need some tig welding.

Plan is to make a starboard side console forward of the middle bench was with a walk-thru on the side. The bow will get a casting/storage platform with an anchor roller and a chain locker for the fast moving rivers we have here. The stern will get a raised platform to house a large fuel tank and a battery. I want to keep this boat fairly light weight to keep it nimble and above the water when I head out into the ocean for crab and salmon. With a 16" transom I am limited to fair weather and keeping the weight down means as much freeboard as possible. 

This is my first foray into boat building/modification but I do have quite a bit of experience with steel fabricating and I am finding aluminum very easy to work with compared to the heavy gauge steel I am used to.

Today I pulled about 200 lbs of crap out of the boat. The bow cap must have weighed 50 lbs at least!! 

First set of pictures are what the boat looked like when I bought it and the last one is after day 1 of gutting. Got the boat 95% gutted, pulled off all the mild steel hardware that was holding things together, pounded out most of the dents.

I want to reinforce the bow just above the keel as there is not much there at all for bracing...actually the boat doesn't have much for bracing to begin with, but I know that an aluminum boat is only as strong as its skeleton, so I will be trying to make this thing as rigid as possible and eliminate any and all flex in the hull when hitting bigger waves.

Any suggestions on what I could use to put a cap over the existing keel?


----------



## Johny25 (Jul 31, 2012)

Do you plan on running it with the tiller handle or are you going to go with the remote steering again?


----------



## Alex_c (Aug 3, 2012)

I am doing a side console on the starboard side forwards of where the middle bench is. The left section of the bench will be cut out for a walk thru. I am going to use a Teleflex Safe-T system. I have 3/16" aluminum plate screwed to 1/8" 1" x 3" angle to form two ribs in place of the bench seat. I am going to tie the gunwale to the rib to hopefully remove all flex from the boat.


Today's activities found a 4" long gash in the hull where the stern seats were. The hull had tonnes of flex in it when I got it and the sheet worked a nice slit into the skin of the hull where it was contacting. PO had tried to repair with sikaflex or some kind of flexible goo. I will be riveting a patch sealed with 5200 around it! As for the other sections that need welding, I have decided to no spend the money and just patch them. Drill the ends of the hairline cracks to stop spreading and 5200 + riveted patch. Some of them will have to be on the outside, but who cares - the fish won't see that!

I also pulled the transom out since I found out it was rotten, even though the PO had replaced it. I originally pulled the bench seat apart to fix the flex in the hull but as these things go I ended up gutting the entire thing!

Still waiting on the rivets to come in from order so I will post some pics tomorrow after I actually start building and repairing and not just pulling out crap and finding surprises from the PO!

My budget for this should come in around $750 for everthing:

$200 for steering wheel and steering system
$100 for rivets and rivet gun
$100 for aluminum
$25 for stainless screws
$30 for two tubes of 5200
$150 for paint/prep supplies (seems high but in my experience painting is expensive)
$70 for transom repair
$50 for swivel seat
$25 for other hardware/consumables.

After that I will concentrate on the floor/battery/accessories etc. The primary goal is to get the boat water tight and rigid as possible, get the transom done, and get the side console/steering/remote done so I can take it out on the water for a test run and check how it performs before I start on paint and finishing touches.

Sorry for all the blabbing and lack of pictures...I tend to forget the camera and keep my head down while I work in the first few stages of a project to figure out exactly how it needs to be approached. Writing everything out helps get my plan in order and keeps me motivated!


----------



## Ictalurus (Aug 3, 2012)

Alex_c said:


> $30 for two tubes of 5200



Get the 5200 at Home Depot instead of BPS, its about $5 a tube compared to $15.


----------



## Alex_c (Aug 4, 2012)

Ictalurus said:


> Alex_c said:
> 
> 
> > $30 for two tubes of 5200
> ...



Up here in Canada, the cheapest I can find it is $15 for a 10 oz "caulking tube". 

Home Despot nor any of the other big boxes carry it so I have to source it from my local marine supply place. The extra cost is still cheaper than a new used boat with its own set of problems!


----------



## Alex_c (Aug 4, 2012)

So today resulted in some good forward progress. 

Got the transom cut and glued with Titebond III and laid down the first coat of spar urethane.

Decide ugly patches on the outside of the boat for the hairline cracks will be just as, if not more effective than welding - at a fraction of the cost. The reason they are on the outside is because they are at the end of the ribs in the hull and could not be fully covered if the patch was laid on the inside. Hopefully the fish don't mind! 

The PO had used some kind of roofing tar to "seal" the untreated transom he had installed, so I wire wheeled it all off, cleaned with acetone and sanded. There was a bit of corrosion to the aluminum but nothing too savage. After that I sprayed two coats of primer to prepare for the new transom.


3 more coats of urethane to the wood and it will be ready to go in with some stainless hardware. 

Due to some bullshit labeling issues, you can't get Gluvit in Canada anymore, so I will have to take a trek south of the border to pick some up.

Last picture is Salmon fishing on the Fraser River this weekend. Caught 2, 15-18 lb chinooks and about 7, 5-8 lb sockeye. Had to let the Sockeye go but the chinooks sure were a good fight!


----------



## Alex_c (Mar 20, 2013)

Well after a 6 month hiatus due to weather, work, other projects and getting my garage set up and organized so I can spend more time getting stuff done and less time trying to find tools and setting up a work table outside...I am back in action. We'll see how long it takes me to get it done but I will keep plugging away at it and I think I have a clearer idea of what I want to do with it now that I have had some time to stew on it.

Weather is getting better, but work is picking up again so I will have to make sure I get enough days off to try to get this thing done before the summer.


----------



## Alex_c (Mar 21, 2013)

Got a line on some 2x2x1/8" square toob for $4/foot ($80 for a
20' piece)

Seems expensive but I should only need 40' to build all the supports for my floor and decking, plus some scrap sheet and angle for any other assorted bracketry.

If you factor the cost of wood, spar varnish, ss hardware and angle brackets.. Not to mention the hours to finish all that wood, I think it's a good investment. We get a lot of rain here and I plan on taking it into the salt so I'm not sure how well wood is going to hold up.

The decking and floor boards will be stained and varnished wood however because I like the way it looks. It also feels really nice on bare feet in the hot sun. Finding enough aluminum sheet for a good price had been tough so wood it is. 1/2 exterior ply, coat of walnut stain, 3 coats of spar varnish.

I did up a quick computer drawing of what the layout will be that I will post later.

Excited to get back at it but currently the situation seems to be: motivation, money and time - you can only pick two!


----------



## Alex_c (Mar 22, 2013)

Crude drawing of the planned layout


----------



## jvanhees (Mar 22, 2013)

I like the mach draw up you have there...keep throwing up pics!


----------



## thudpucker (Mar 24, 2013)

Alex_c said:


> Crude drawing of the planned layout



Oh how I wish I could make "Crude" drawings like that!


----------



## Pweisbrod (Mar 24, 2013)

Snap, this thing is going to be a sweet little rig! Consider getting some of those little splash flaps that all the walleye boats around here have on them, eh!


----------



## Alex_c (Mar 25, 2013)

Splash flaps eh...never head of them! What do they do?

Got a bit more work done today. Reinforced the bow at the keel where it was oilcanning before. Nice and rigid now. 

Got the transom fitted in and the rear seats put back in after some reinforcement and modification. 

Next step is to get the rest of the bench pieces riveted to the hull, then I can start laying out my aluminum tubing for the floor and the casting decks at the bow and stern. I will try to get some pics tomorrow evening after work.


----------



## shawnfish (Mar 26, 2013)

NICE FIND!!! around here you could get 1,300$ for that motor alone if its a good runner...


----------



## Alex_c (Mar 26, 2013)

She runs real nice! Always starts first or second pull when cold. Pushes the boat to about 25 mph and is surprisingly light at 135 lbs.

The boat is rated for 30 hp, but in later years the OMC 35 was rated as a 30 when they started measuring from the prop instead of the crank. So technically it should be ok!

With less weight at the front of the boat and the driver's position further back I suspect it will plane better and my top speed might climb a bit.

I bought a carb rebuild kit a while back and I will use it if I can find the dang thing... lol. Doesn't really need it but after spending this much time on the rest of the boat it would be silly not to spend an hour or two on the motor.

It also needs the upper crank shaft seal replaced. It leaks oily residue when running. Hopefully it isn't a worn bearing but we'll see once I get the flywheel off and take a look. My gut tells me it's fine but I can be a bit paranoid about these things.


----------



## Alex_c (Mar 27, 2013)

Ok, almost got 'er back to how she came from the factory.

I really should have put my time and money into a better hull but this thing didn't have any real major damage and I like a challenge! Its got a lot of dings and battle scars though I tell you. 

I have the last piece for the front bench to put in, and I can start laying down the frame for the decks. After that, the transom will get bolted down with new SS hardware.

After I'm done riveting and drilling more holes in the hull she will get the gluvit treatment and then the interior will be sanded and painted. I'm going with primer grey for the inside due to cost and ease of touch ups. Two coats should do it.

After the interior is painted, the next step will be all the woodwork, and laying out the hatches/storage etc.


----------



## Alex_c (Mar 27, 2013)

More pics


----------



## thudpucker (Mar 27, 2013)

That's pretty good looking work. You'r gonna get that thing in the water yet!! :lol:


----------



## Alex_c (Mar 27, 2013)

I wish! I might put water _in it_ to see how many of my fresh rivets leak :mrgreen:


----------



## thudpucker (Mar 27, 2013)

Make a Rubber cup or something with lips and put three or five pounds of air pressure on the rivets, one at a time.


----------



## Alex_c (Mar 27, 2013)

Haha I was just kidding. I'm pretty sure i got all the leakers but the gluvit should get anything I missed


----------



## Alex_c (Apr 4, 2013)

Got the framing for the deck done, the walk-thru cut out and the floor half finished.

Decided I'm gonna go with a tiller and put an extension handle on it because I like to stand and drive, and I don't want to boat to lean like crazy when I'm by myself, as it would with a side console.

Also, it will save me about $300 in materials plus all the time to build it. I will also save on some weight too. The goal is to keep this thing as light as possible so it will go fast/burn less fuel.


----------



## Alex_c (Apr 11, 2013)

Has been raining pretty consistently, and my only day off in the last 2 weeks was spent picking up a new car for the girlfriend, so the project is on hold awaiting some better weather! All the rain did help check for leaks and only 2 of the 250 or so rivets I have installed leak a bit. One I will swap out for a better one but the other will get some gluvit. Picked up a 13x20 hatch for some dry bow stowage and materials to build an anchor roller/holder.

The PO drilled a bunch of holes thru the gunwale and I want to fill them before paint. Would epoxy work? Short strand fibreglass body filler? Biggest is about 3/8" diameter.


----------



## Alex_c (Apr 15, 2013)

Had a day off and some decent weather to get some more work done on this thing today. Been almost 2 weeks but I'm at the mercy of the elements.

Framing is 95% done. next is prep for gluvit and primer.


----------



## Pweisbrod (Apr 16, 2013)

That looks awesome. What's the blue crap?


----------



## Alex_c (Apr 16, 2013)

That was the colour of the interior from the factory, mostly rubbed off. I am going to paint it grey with the cheapest metal paint/primer that I can find. :mrgreen:


----------



## DanMC (Apr 17, 2013)

Hi Alex,
Nice job !, where in Canada ?....i guess BC ?


----------



## Alex_c (Apr 19, 2013)

Yes, Vancouver to be exact. Boat is designed primarily for the Fraser but I also do a bit of crab/ocean fishing when the weather is nice.


----------



## Alex_c (Apr 23, 2013)

Have been picking away at the boat as the weather and schedule allows. I built a few more aluminum pieces that I'll post pics of later on. I laid down a thin coat of gluvit on all the rivets and seams in the boat. I was going to go a bit thicker but I realized that it's probably more effective on the outside as the chances of sealing are a lot better! Anyway, tomorrow is supposed to be nice so I am going to try to get the thing prepped and primed on the inside and then flip 'er over and start prepping the outside. I'm not really too picky about covering everything on the inside, but I want to get the actual hull primed and painted to avoid corrosion below the deck, and anything above the deck primed and painted to look good. Still haven't decided on the color for the outside, but it will probably be whatever is cheapest. The bottom will probably be white and the sides will be black if I can't find a half decent colour in the cheapest oil based paint I can find.


----------



## Alex_c (Apr 25, 2013)

Got some paint on the biatch! Tremclad semi-gloss grey. Cheapest stuff I could find. The bottom of the hull and the back of the transom will get the same paint and my girlfriend wants to paint the sides yellow. I wanna do burgundy and stain the wood a deep cherry colour, but she says burgundy is an old man's colour. Hogwash I say!


----------



## Alex_c (Apr 25, 2013)

Here's an shot with the framing and bow storage in. I am waiting to install these after paint to make it easier to reach all the spots. They are anodized by the looks of it and they aren't going to be under the water line so I'm not worried about corrosion.


----------



## Alex_c (Apr 26, 2013)

A few questions/ideas:

I want to add some extra storage to the boat. I have a 13x23" hatch for the bow that will use all the space under the front casting platform as dry storage. I plan on storing snacks/life jackets/jackets/various boating supplies here Basically anything I want to keep dry and out of the way until I need it. I also have the storage for the anchor chain/rope at the top so it's all there and easily accessible.

I want to add another storage for all my fishing tackle to keep it dry and organized. Either at the stern in one of the floatation pods on either side of the boat or in the middle seats where the walk thru is. The cheapest I can find water tight hatches that will be the right size is $33 at great lakes skipper. The only downfall is that I will be removing some floatation to accommodate this. 

I also want to add a cooler to the front bench for beer and smaller fish (any big salmon would have to be stored elsewhere obviously). I could find a cooler that fits and just cut out the wood so it's removable but I like the idea of something integrated. Live bait is pretty much never used up here due to restrictions so I don't need a livewell. If I went with something installed in the boat I could add a drain plug and let it drain and into the bilge and pump it out.

I was thinking of using rubbermaid containers instead of hatch liners. I think paying $50+ for a piece of molded plastic is insane. Does anyone know of a cheap and effective solution in lieu of a hatch liner? 

I don't like tripping all over stuff while I am fishing and I can relax when things are neat and organized. Also lots of waterproof storage means I can keep my gear in the boat when it rains during fishing season. It rains a lot in the pacific north west! I also use to boat to access camping spots which means taking lots of gear, so keeping the necessities/fishing & boat related gear tucked away will let me pack gear without tripping over all sorts of stuff.

If anyone has any ideas please let me know! I was thinking of putting piano hinge on the middle bench plywood but after I buy the hinge and mess around with fixing a latch, I might as well spend the extra $10 and get a $30 hatch.

Also, does anyone have a line on a hook for clip that I can fasten my oars to the gunwale with? The boat has slots towards the stern to insert the wide end of the paddle, but I want to mount some kind of quick release to hold the handles in place.

I plan on making braces/stiffeners for the gunwales and mounting horizontal rod holders on them, so I have at least one thing figured out!


----------



## Alex_c (Apr 27, 2013)

Goodies!

Just ordered:

1100 GPH bilge pump/plumbing
Kenwood KMR-355 Stereo and speakers/waterproof housing and antenna
3 switch panel with 12V outlet
12" LED bars (will mount along the gunnel for night fishing/camping)
2 Scotty power lock rod holders
vertical mount rod storage
2 wise swivel seats with swivels and quick release bases


Annd, the build cost just doubled.


----------



## DOBSONFLY (Apr 27, 2013)

Alex_c said:


> Goodies!
> 
> Just ordered:
> 
> ...




Necessities.... :beer: 

Your paint came out great I would say! Totally different boat it looks like. Good work!

As far as the color for the sides... better go with yellow!!! :wink:


----------



## Alex_c (Apr 27, 2013)

Thanks! It's amazing what a coat of paint will do. I used a 4" roller where I could reach it and then used a chip brush for the tight spots. 

Hm... Yellow. Thoughts?


----------



## DOBSONFLY (Apr 27, 2013)

I like yellow, plus not everyone has a yellow boat. Something different is cool my 2 cents... And added bonus is that its the lady's choice. You did it for her... 8) 
https://www.kofflerboats.com/wp-con...che/images/35_koffler-yellow-boat-960x400.jpg


----------



## Alex_c (Apr 27, 2013)

I could do a taxi paint scheme on it and call it the "catch cab", since I'm always taking friends out in it, any everyone I know wants a boat ride hahaha.


----------



## DOBSONFLY (Apr 27, 2013)

Alex_c said:


> I could do a taxi paint scheme on it and call it the "catch cab", since I'm always taking friends out in it, any everyone I know wants a boat ride hahaha.



The full on taxi checkered may be a little much for me but, hell go for it if it is your look. I photshopped the Cash Cab logo with "Catch Cab" in black and you could just do a yellow background and have this cut in a black vinyl decal. I like "Catch Cab" that's a clever spin on it and would tie in the yellow nicely! =D>


----------



## Alex_c (Apr 27, 2013)

Hahah fully checkered would be way too ridiculous for me too. I was thinking of doing the rear 1/4 of the boat with checkers in a triangle shape starting from the spray rail and tapering out towards the gunwale and stern. Much like your design sans logo, but I like the logo...i might use that!!


----------



## Alex_c (May 5, 2013)

Finished the decking today. All the wood pieces are cut and ready to be sanded and painted. Got a couple other small things done today as well. I got some interlocking plastic mats for the floor.


----------



## Alex_c (May 5, 2013)

So originally the plan was to do the deck without carpet and stain it a rich brown or cherry fpr a classy touch. I decided I want the floor to not get hot on my bare feet like it would with a darker stain, but I still want to see the wood grain. The stain i'll be using is varathane "sunbleached". It's a light grey but still lets the grain show through. It will then get 3 coats of urethane with a fourth coat that will have an anti-slip additive for all the top surfaces.

The flooring I will be using is called "multy-tile". It is a black plastic interlocking floor that has gaps to trap dirt and mud. We get a lot of rain, and river fishing can be pretty dirty when you're getting on and off the boat from the shore. Not many river boats have any carpet in them for a reason. I am waiting for my goodies to arrive from walmart so I can cut out the speaker holes, stereo, switch panel and bilge drain. Until then I am going to be sanding and staining the wood that doesn't need any holes in it and working on small bits and pieces. I also plan to get the transom bolted in soon. Once all my holes are drilled and everything in the interior is mocked up, I will flip it over and prep, gluvit, prime and paint the hull. The trailer will also get a wire wheel and a fresh coat of paint.


----------



## DOBSONFLY (May 6, 2013)

Looks like you have made some good progress, keep it up! Also sounds like the goodies will be in soon. Look forward to the pictures to come. 8)


----------



## Alex_c (May 7, 2013)

Thanks! I actually got the goodies today, although Walmart messed up and only sent one rod holder. Seats are great and will match the colour scheme of the boat interior 100%. I decided to build a small console for the stereo and switch panel on top of the middle seat on the starboard side. I was going to mount the stereo/speakers elsewhere but decided against cutting up the metal, so I am going to be building boxes for each. 

I sanded and stained all the decking today after I picked up the goodies and 75 Ah deep cycle marine battery/box that I also got mounted.

Right now the interior paint is getting a bit chewed up from fitting installing the floors, but I planned on doing a second coat above the deck line from the get go, so I will sand and re-coat it all once everything has been mocked up and fitted. I finally have some spare time this week and the weather is holding up, so I hope to make some more progress with the goal of getting this thing done by June at the latest.


----------



## Alex_c (May 8, 2013)

Got the transom reinforcement plate made and the transom bolted in, also refurbed the transom cap and got that mounted too. There were a bunch of holes in it courtesy of the PO, so I used some JB weld to fill them.

I also got the hatch built for the rear deck. This will allow access to the battery and the fuel tank. The hole is big enough that the tank can be easily removed thru the hatch.

All the wood was stained last night so I got 2 coats of spar down today. I also did some "body work" and used the JB weld putty to fill in some holes above the waterline in the hull, as well as some in the gunwale. 

I also picked up some more hardware and got my SS piano hinge today. Price wasn't too bad, but still pretty costly. So far I am over $1500 in to this just for materials, hardware, paint, and of course all the new stuff like battery, fuel tank, bilge pump, stereo and speakers, switch panel, and other accessories, etc...but hopefully there aren't any more big expenses looming.

Got the day off tomorrow as well, so I hope to get the boat flipped and start prepping the outside of the hull for some gluvit, primer and paint.


----------



## DOBSONFLY (May 8, 2013)

Alex, Hows it coming?


----------



## Alex_c (May 8, 2013)

Good!

Today I got some random holes patched up above the water line, got the 3rd coat of spar on the wood, got the boat flipped, wire brushed, sanded and cleaned and got 1 coat of Gluvit down. I filled all the little holes in the pop rivet heads with Gluvit as well as all the seams along the stringers and other rivets. I still have to do another coat of gluvit before I prime, so it will be a couple days to get painted. I have some work coming up the next three days and it looks like they are going to be long days...so I hope to get a few things done, when possible, if possible.


Here are some pics of the hull. No pics of the finished decking yet, I am going to wait until it is assembled, I think it's going to look pretty sharp.

That's 1/8" aluminum plate at the back of the transom :mrgreen: 

That should take care of the motor being 5 HP over the boat's rating. 8)


----------



## DOBSONFLY (May 9, 2013)

Keep it up, looking good! =D>


----------



## Alex_c (May 10, 2013)

Today was over a 12 hour day at work, and I suspect the next 2 days will be even longer. Next week I will resume progress on this fine vessel with another coat of Gluvit, a coat of etching primer, at least one coat of metal primer and two coats of Rustoleum gloss grey.


----------



## Alex_c (May 14, 2013)

Well I didn't get any more painting or sealing done...The weather turned to crap so I decided to tackle the leaking upper crankshaft seal on my motor.

I got it all buttoned up, as well as cleaned the contacts and fixed the rubber boot on the stop button. Before the rubber stuck out too far and you would have to really push in hard to get the motor to stop and the bad contacts sometimes meant it would cut spark but not enough to fully stop the motor, now a light press and it stops without drama.

I cleaned it all up, removed all the controls that were on it, and got rid of the wire splice that ran to the kill switch. Now that the stop button works well I don't think I'll need a kill switch at the switch panel like I had originally planned.

I also picked up my wiring, and got a breaker/switch for the battery. It was about $70, but that's worth not causing an electrical fire!

Pics are of the motor all cleaned up. Before, everything was covered in fuel/burnt oil so after an hour or so with a rag, toothbrush and a bottle of simple green, it looks pretty sharp.

I let the motor run for about 15 mins and no sign of leakage at the seal, but a WOT run once the motor is on the boat will tell whether or not my seal job will be up to snuff.


----------



## DOBSONFLY (May 14, 2013)

:beer: You got the Evinrude looking really nice, how much HP?


----------



## Alex_c (May 15, 2013)

It's a 35 - Gets the boat up on step with 4 people in her with zero drama :mrgreen: 

Today was another productive day:

Got the first coat of Gluvit sanded, washed with soapy water, rinsed and dried. Applied second coat. 

I ended up using the full can. I covered some areas that will be dragged over rocks on the river bank..the stern got two coats about a foot back from the transom all the way across the hull.

I also covered some pitted spots in the aluminum...in the end the most of the hull got at least a thin coat.

I got the trailer ripped apart completely. I pulled out all the wiring, pulled of the bunks and rollers, pulled off the plywood "platform" the PO had added along the main beam, cut off the rusty safety chains..you get the point. The bunks had some green astro turf on them that had filled itself full of grit and sand, and you can see where the trailer was wearing away at the hull. I have to come up with something better than a putting green that will allow the boat to slide nicely and not mess up the paint. The wood for the bunks had some rot so I decided to toss them and start fresh. I'll be using cedar most likely.

I wire wheeled off the rust, sanded the old paint down a bit, washed it all with soapy water and then rinsed and dried. I went over some of the rustier looking areas with some rust converter/primer stuff. I could have used more than the half can I had laying around but I got most of the bad spots. I got a thin first coat of the grey Rustoleum that I am using on the boat. I will get another coat on pending the weather. It's supposed to rain tomorrow, but Thursday I have the afternoon off and it's supposed to be sunny.

Here's some pics of the boat with the Gluvit all over it (yeah, there are a lot of drips...that's why I have a palm sander  ). Also some pics of the trailer all stripped down and painted. If you scroll up to the first couple of posts with the pics of the boat "before" you can see the condition of the trailer.


----------



## Alex_c (May 17, 2013)

Some more updates:

Got second coat of paint on trailer, new tires, rollers, got material for new bunks, so I am going to finish that up today.

Got the gluvit all sanded down amd ready for primer...weather pending!


----------



## Alex_c (May 18, 2013)

Got what painting I could get done in my small garage today. Was raining hard all day so I tried to get as much done inside as I could. Good news is that the trailer is ready to get put back together. Bad news is that I have been turning down jobs with plans of getting this thing painted and the weather not co-operating at all. It's supposed to be nice towards the end of the month so I still think I can get it done before June.


----------



## DOBSONFLY (May 18, 2013)

You will make it, no worries. Keep it up. I took mine out on a maiden voyage last night and couldn't have asked for a better night to be out. It made all the hard work well worth it to be out and about on the lake. Didn't catch much but did spend 90% of the time just cruising the lake.

Anxious to see the next set of pics on your build. 8)


----------



## DOBSONFLY (May 18, 2013)

Oh yeah trailer looks great, that is good color. :beer:


----------



## Alex_c (May 18, 2013)

I know what you mean. I started this project almost a year ago, so I am getting to the point where I just want the damn thing done, but I just can't cut corners if I try. I don't think I have much left once it's painted, just a matter of putting everything together. The only bigger parts of that are going to be building the speaker boxes and my little console for the stereo and switch panel. 

Thanks for the motivational speech :beer: 

And the trailer is the same colour as the bottom and interior of the boat. I am going to go with yellow but I'm not sure if the catch cab idea is going to come to fruition. I might do a bit of a design on it, but I want to keep it simple!


----------



## Alex_c (May 19, 2013)

Amazing what a coat of paint and some new hardware will do. I bit the bullet and got new tires..they were on sale.

Here's the trailer all bolted up. I placed the new bunks on for the picture, but I will have to set their exact location once the boat's resting on it. Still have to do the wiring, but I can do that whenever. The main goal was getting the trailer painted and freshened up while the boat was off it.

Edit: Added a "before" picture of the boat sitting on trailer.


----------



## Alex_c (May 19, 2013)

Primed! Tomorrow, paint. Can says wait 24 hrs for primer to dry, but I will hopefully get at it early tomorrow so nobody tell them I might break the rules.. :-$


----------



## Alex_c (May 20, 2013)

Here's a list of what's left. So close I can taste the fish!
- Finish painting hull exterior
- Get boat back on trailer and adjust bunks, fore keel roller
- Install lots and lots of floatation foam
- Mount hatches and figure out latches for the hatches I made myself
- Build gunwale braces from 1/8" plate aluminum (x4). These will also act as mounting spots for rods etc.
- Build anchor and anchor roller (this one isn't as pressing since I only need it when fishing the river).
- Build speaker boxes to fit under fore gunwale braces.
- Build small console for switch panel and stereo
- Install seat mounts on fore and aft decks
- 4th and final top coat of spar on decking with anti-slip crud added.
- Install all decking and trim to cover my poor carpentry skills
- Secure battery and gas tank
- Mount motor
- Touch up interior paint where needed.
- Install stereo/speakers/wiring/lights/bilge pump etc.
- Make a tiller handle extension.
- Drink a beer, have a smoke.
- Get the damn thing in the water and see how many leaks it has.


----------



## Badbagger (May 20, 2013)

GREAT job =D> =D> =D> 

Just about to finish mine as well...


----------



## Alex_c (May 20, 2013)

First coat of paint on the hull done and 4th and final coat of spar with the anti-slip stuff, done on all the decking. The paint really shows all the dents


----------



## Alex_c (May 22, 2013)

Still waiting for some sunshine to get this thing finished!


----------



## Alex_c (May 28, 2013)

Well, it looks like my goal of getting it done by June isn't happening. Working 12 hours a day and trying to find enough time to exercise, eat well and get enough sleep don't leave a lot of time for the boat. On the days where I do have time it likes to rain and there's not a whole lot I can do in the garage. 

Anyway, I managed to get the boat painted. I also laid in the decking all stained and varnished to give a glimpse of what it looks like. Good news is that it's pretty full of rain water and doesn't leak, bad news is that I can't drain it until I get the bunks on the trailer! I had to cut off 4 of the 8 u-bolts that hold the bunks to the trailer frame and today was my first chance since I got it flipped back over to pick them up. 

The decking looks crooked because I haven't screwed it down yet, and I have some 3/4" quarter round white vinyl trim to cover the gaps to avoid losing stuff in the bilge.

Next days off are the 3rd and 4th. Hope to get a few things done in the meantime though.

Here are a few pics of the boat painted on the freshly restored trailer, and one of the deck. Don't mind the redneck garbage pile...a trip to the dump is also on the list of things to do. :|


----------



## TheMaestro (May 28, 2013)

Dont worry about deadlines for the boat.. Enjoy the process,you are doing fine work and its looking good. You'll get on the water and when you do, you'll have a sweet ride and people will be checkin it out!


----------



## Alex_c (May 31, 2013)

You're right - I had a few ideas I removed from the list, but now that I can take it a bit slower I might re-consider a few.

All I have managed to get done since the boat was flipped back over is install the new bunks and get them adjusted. Next step is to figure out how much floatation foam I need to fill under the floor and all the bench seats. If I can get away with it, I am going to add some more storage in the middle seats for stuff like tackle or pelican cases since it won't be waterproof like the bow hatch.


----------



## Alex_c (Jun 2, 2013)

Picked up a Yamaha 2 hp for a trolling motor. Not a whole lot of electric only lakes up here with good fishing, and this is much lighter than a second battery. Haven't really seen a lot of people use a small kicker like this on a 14' boat but the transom is about 58" wide so there is enough room there for it. Will also save gas when putting around slowly. The 35 is pretty thirsty for a 2 cylinder.


https://youtu.be/IKf0fvTORX8


----------



## Zum (Jun 2, 2013)

Had the same motor a few years back...in gear when started just turn it right around for reverse?
I used mine on a 16' canoe,another one of those things I sold that I would like to have back.


----------



## Alex_c (Jun 2, 2013)

Yeah, that's right, no neutral gear. Serial number says it's a 1986. I'd like to pick up a canoe once this is done so I can fish the lakes only accessible by Jeep.


----------



## Alex_c (Jun 4, 2013)

I am working my way from the back to the front on this thing. 

I built and installed some 90* brackets that rivet to the hull and screw to the transom along the edges of the transom.

I installed the rear deck framing as well as got the rear hatch done. Still need to finalize the rear seat location and install the hatch light before I screw the rear deck down but I might take it for a trial run to check the weight distribution before I screw everything down.

I ran all the wiring, I still am a couple days away from being able to wire everything up, but I needed the wire run so I could cut and fit the floatation foam that goes under the floor. I the floatation about 30% done today, going to get it done first thing tomorrow.

I also got the bilge pump thru-hull fitting installed. 
I am just going through the list, knocking off one thing at a time.

Back at it tomorrow and then away on business for 5 days. :?


----------



## Alex_c (Jun 6, 2013)

Oh yeah I should have about 800lbs of floatation from the foam. Boat weighs probably 300 without the wood decking, motor about 150, plus battery, seats, anchor etc. Should be enough to keep 'er out of davey jones' locker.

I got some more work done, pics when I arrive back home.

I also ordered a bimini top and a trailerable boat cover. RIP bank account.


----------



## Alex_c (Jun 10, 2013)

Well, just got back from Toronto and getting my ass handed to me for a week at work. Picked up my bimini and boat cover today. I think I'll do a bit more work once the hangover subdues.


----------



## Gaiagrim (Jun 10, 2013)

Alex,

Nice work on the boat so far. I noticed you were trying to find a way to get a bit more space. My wife and I are gutting/rebuilding our 1992 Lund 14 ft DLX and decided to go with a portable/removable live-well made from a $5 Walmart storage bin. The great part is we wired the boat to have a cigarette lighter socket (it makes life so much easier). I think we have a grand total of about $60 dollars into the removable/portable live-well, but it will run in the boat or we can just plug it into my truck. I also picked up a AC to DC lighter adapter so that i can even run it in the house if we want. I used Zip-Ties for most of the support because they work well and most importantly it is waterproof and cheap 

I figured I would share the photos to help you get some ideas to help on the storage issues. Leaving some things as portable and simple make finding time to fish much easier. We had about 2 hours total labor into it, even including getting the parts so it is a really quick way to get it done.

My wife and I drilled out a bunch of holes on the bottom side of the PVC pipe to allow this thing to act as an aerator, and we added the ball valves as well so it was able to empty itself. (what can I say I figure if we are using the bilge pump it may as well empty the portable live well too.) We usually leave it empty to save weight unless we catch some pretty large bass or catfish.

You have an exceptional talent to repair boat hulls for sure. I personally am terrified to drill any holes in our boat whatsoever, and I don't think I'll play with trying unless I have a hefty knowledge of how to repair the hull. I do know a bit about plumbing though so it seems to help for a few things 

Hope this helps and happy fishing,
Gaiagrim


----------



## DanMC (Jun 11, 2013)

Hi Alex,
We also have a 2 Hp Honda for trolling,probably yours is water cooled ?, our little 2010 Honda is air cooled and does great job pushing our 14.6' Lund (2010) ,have fun !


----------



## DOBSONFLY (Jun 11, 2013)

:beer: :beer: :beer: 
Looking great! I love the yellow, it is killer. Good snag on the little motor, that thing is clean and runs like a top it sounds like. Keep up the good work.

I had a good motor find over the weekend, since I am addicted to old cloud white Mercs I had to get it. Will post some stuff when I get some time...


----------



## kensho1976 (Jun 11, 2013)

Your "crude" drawings use autocad. My crude drawings usually involve crayons! I like what you're doing with the boat. Keep the pics coming!


----------



## Alex_c (Jun 12, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=318263#p318263 said:


> Gaiagrim » Yesterday, 20:37[/url]"]Alex,
> 
> Nice work on the boat so far. I noticed you were trying to find a way to get a bit more space. My wife and I are gutting/rebuilding our 1992 Lund 14 ft DLX and decided to go with a portable/removable live-well made from a $5 Walmart storage bin. The great part is we wired the boat to have a cigarette lighter socket (it makes life so much easier). I think we have a grand total of about $60 dollars into the removable/portable live-well, but it will run in the boat or we can just plug it into my truck. I also picked up a AC to DC lighter adapter so that i can even run it in the house if we want. I used Zip-Ties for most of the support because they work well and most importantly it is waterproof and cheap
> 
> ...




That's really cool, and I dig what you did there, however I don't really have a need for a live well on my boat. I decided to sacrifice some storage for floatation in the end. All said and done with everything stuffed full, I have just under 700 lbs of floatation from the foam in there, if 1 cubic foot of foam gives 62 lbs of floatation.


----------



## Alex_c (Jun 12, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=318267#p318267 said:


> DanMC » Yesterday, 21:34[/url]"]Hi Alex,
> We also have a 2 Hp Honda for trolling,probably yours is water cooled ?, our little 2010 Honda is air cooled and does great job pushing our 14.6' Lund (2010) ,have fun !




This one is water cooled! It's actually nice and quiet. Can't wait to try it out!


----------



## Alex_c (Jun 12, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=318269#p318269 said:


> DOBSONFLY » Yesterday, 22:26[/url]"]:beer: :beer: :beer:
> Looking great! I love the yellow, it is killer. Good snag on the little motor, that thing is clean and runs like a top it sounds like. Keep up the good work.
> 
> I had a good motor find over the weekend, since I am addicted to old cloud white Mercs I had to get it. Will post some stuff when I get some time...




Nice, I will keep an eye on your thread!



kensho1976 said:


> Your "crude" drawings use autocad. My crude drawings usually involve crayons! I like what you're doing with the boat. Keep the pics coming!



MS paint actually :wink: Lots of pics coming up too!


----------



## Alex_c (Jun 12, 2013)

Got back from Toronto Monday morning and didn't waste any time. Today I dawdled a bit in the morning since I was still pretty tired from the work trip, but I got in the swing of things by the afternoon. Still have a couple days work left but damn does it feel good to start screwing things down and know that it will be the last time I'll have to deal with it!


----------



## Alex_c (Jun 12, 2013)

More pics, because I know that's all you really care about :wink:


----------



## Alex_c (Jun 12, 2013)

Still have to paint the front storage metal, gunwale, transom cap, rear of the transom and another coat on the interior of the hull where it got scratched from installing stuff. I'll probably do all that last after everything is installed. Mask off where necessary and make it all look pretty again.

I kinda knew that I would have to do a second coat once everything was installed, but I got the first coat down so everything below the deck would be covered.

Aside from painting, I still have to build the console thingy for the switches and stereo and build the speaker boxes. Hope to get most of the install stuff finished tomorrow and then start on paint. Right now I am taking my time fitting everything and making sure the puzzle goes together in the right order.


----------



## Gaiagrim (Jun 12, 2013)

Wow! That is great work the boat is really starting to look like she is finished, just a few more touches. Keep up the effort and she'll be done in no time.


----------



## Alex_c (Jun 12, 2013)

Well it's pissing rain today, but good news is the 1100 GPH bilge pump shoots out water like a fire hose! =D>


----------



## kensho1976 (Jun 12, 2013)

I may have missed one of the pics showing it, but how did you mount your seats? I'm trying to determine if those aluminum seat plates and seat bases would work. I want to be able to move my seats to the bow and stern and put a pedestal under them.


----------



## Alex_c (Jun 12, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=318502#p318502 said:


> kensho1976 » 46 minutes ago[/url]"]I may have missed one of the pics showing it, but how did you mount your seats? I'm trying to determine if those aluminum seat plates and seat bases would work. I want to be able to move my seats to the bow and stern and put a pedestal under them.



I used this:
https://www.springfieldgrp.com/products-2/boat-slides-swivels/light-duty/3679-2/quick-seat-mount-swivel-combo

You need to get their swivels since at 7" they are bigger than the standard 6-1/4" ones.

I mounted them with 1/4" SS hex bolts, 1/4" SS T-nuts and SS flat washers. The 4 T-nuts seem strong enough to withstand my weight on the seat.

I attached the swivel to the chair since they are mild steel, and the plastic mounts look like they would withstand more abuse getting stepped on etc. You can mount them either way though, with the quick mount on the chair and the swivel on the deck.


----------



## DanMC (Jun 13, 2013)

Nice work !, you'll love your bimini on those bright days,we got one too on our 14 Lund and other than beeing kinda i the way at times....it's worth it !


----------



## Alex_c (Jun 13, 2013)

Yeah, there are some situations where I can see it getting in the way, but I can always take the rear bars out and fold it down for those trips.


----------



## kensho1976 (Jun 13, 2013)

Thanks for the info on the seats. I guess I am worried too much about the ABYC ratings. Almost all of the seat brackets I want to use are rated for "fishing only" instead of driver or passenger. I'm thinking I'm just going to have to ignore the ABYC ratings and use some common sense.


----------



## Alex_c (Jun 13, 2013)

kensho1976 said:


> Thanks for the info on the seats. I guess I am worried too much about the ABYC ratings. Almost all of the seat brackets I want to use are rated for "fishing only" instead of driver or passenger. I'm thinking I'm just going to have to ignore the ABYC ratings and use some common sense.



Interesting, to be honest, I didn't check the rating on mine. I see that the quick releases are rated for fishing only. I'll try them out and if I don't like them I can always change them out


----------



## Alex_c (Jun 14, 2013)

Built the speaker boxes and got a coat of stain + varnish on them.

Built the stereo/switch console and installed an inspection hatch to access breaker switch, fuses and wiring. I mocked the wiring up, and I'll have a positive and negative buss bar that I can hook the positive and negative leads from my battery charger onto. 

Also, I mounted the motors to check clearance of the Bimini. Looks like it's good to go - I can still run the motor with the tiller without any interference while the top is stowed down. I saw some quick release gunwale mounts that I can use instead of the thumbscrew ones that came with it so I can easily have the bimini stored up or down depending on how I am using the boat.

I took the motors back off because I need to paint the top and back of the transom still. 

I need to move the frame of the trailer back on the main beam to move the axle further back and get some weight on the tongue. Right now with the motor, deck and battery in the boat, the tongue lifts off the ground. The bunks also don't support the back of the boat, and I don't want to move them back or make them longer, because they already sick out past the back of the trailer frame enough as it is. There are two u-bolts that I can loosen and slide the frame/bunks/axle backwards to achieve what I want it to do.


----------



## DOBSONFLY (Jun 14, 2013)

:beer: :beer: :beer: getting close, let me know when I need to stop in to go fishing! 8)


----------



## Alex_c (Jun 15, 2013)

Better pack your bags because it'll be soon! All that is left is finishing the paint job (gunwales, transom, interior 2nd coat) and installing a couple more things. Out of town again this weekend but I have lots of time at the end of the month for some fishing.


----------



## kensho1976 (Jun 15, 2013)

Looks like it's really coming together! 

Are you planning on storing your fuel tank under the rear hatch? I've been going back and forth about whether or not to make the tank removable on my build. They're supposed to be removed at the pump to refuel them, and that's not so hard with a 6 gallon tank. But I can't see lifting a 12 gallon "portable" tank out of a boat to refill it. I know it's good practice to fill the tank outside of the boat because of the static charge that builds when the gas is poured. I wonder how many out there actually remove their tanks before filling them?


----------



## Alex_c (Jun 15, 2013)

The tank is removable, and is only a 6 gallon. The battery is also under there. I made it so I can refuel without removing the tank, but it's not too hard to get out if I have to. The only real issue is that I have to take off the rear seat to open it and check the fuel level so I might install an inspection hatch in the lid of the existing hatch to check level/refuel.


----------



## Alex_c (Jun 19, 2013)

Got the bow storage locker installed today and re-adjusted the trailer so more weight sits on the tongue. Had to take the boat off the trailer by myself which wasn't as bad as I was expecting. I slid the frame and axle down the main beam of the trailer about a foot, so now the bunks go all the way back to the transom and the tongue has much more weight on it. Before with the battery and motors (and no gas tank) installed, the tongue would lift off the ground. Now I can put all my weight (200 lbs) on the transom and bounce up and down, and the tongue doesn't budge. The battery (50 lbs), motor (150 lbs) and gas tank (40 lbs full) should balance the weight and make the tongue a tad lighter which would be ideal.


----------



## Alex_c (Jun 22, 2013)

Wiring done today, no pics but I'll get some up tomorrow. Job was cancelled due to mass flooding in the area so I flew back home for the weekend. Will keep picking away at it tomorrow!


----------



## Alex_c (Jun 24, 2013)

Today, despite the rain, I managed to install all the hatches and inspection ports, I also install a clear inspection port that allows me to:

1) Access the filler/vent without having to take off the driver's seat to open the large hatch. The large hatch exists to remove the fuel tank and get at the battery. I could have mounted the driver's seat further to the side so it doesn't interfere with the big hatch but it would have been awkward and uncomfortable to drive the boat

2) View the current fuel level. I was going to go with a regular white hatch like the one I used to access the wiring, but I saw the clear hatch and decided to go with that, so now all I have to do is glance at it to see current fuel level. The light inside there will hit the fuel gauge dead on so even at night it will be extremely convenient!


I also ported the speaker boxes I made. I tuned the port to 45 HZ (1.5" D X 4.75" L) - we'll see how it sounds. For sure I will get more volume out of them but hopefully the sound quality won't suffer too badly.

I mounted the antenna so it does not interfere with the bimini top when it's down and so I can use those little slots to secure the oars in while underway. Also wanted to avoid drilling into the hull where possible. The cable was JUST long enough, which is why it's run up the gunwale on an angle.

Anyway, enough blah blah blah...PICTURES!


----------



## Alex_c (Jun 24, 2013)

More pics of the bow storage and the trailer adjusted.


----------



## Alex_c (Jun 25, 2013)

Some pics of the lights. Might end up adding more in the future, but for now I am very happy. :mrgreen: 

I tried to get a pic of the tank's fuel gauge - you can see it very easily in person, without the glare from the exposure.


----------



## DanMC (Jun 26, 2013)

Quality work,your wiring is professional grade !


----------



## Alex_c (Jun 26, 2013)

Thanks! It ended up a bit sloppier than i'd like with the wires looking messy, but everything is marine grade connectors, glue lined heat shrink and marine grade hardware. That box is sealed in there pretty well with 4200 so hopefully I won't have to work on it for a few years!


----------



## Alex_c (Jun 27, 2013)

Did a shakedown run today to check for any bugs before I add all the finishing touches. Everything went awesome, except for my rear hatch caving in. I thought the 10 screws holding the hinge in would be enough, but I used short ones so they wouldn't poke through the underside of the wood...well they weren't strong enough and while I was kneeling on it to adjust the trim it collapsed! It's an easy fix, I will add some of the 3/4" square tube and bolt through wood and metal instead of screwing into just wood  

I had some insanely beefy gunwale braces made up that attach to the middle seats, but the boat is so solid I will probably go with something a lot smaller and less in the way. 

Everything is really solid :mrgreen: I tried to "jump" my wake and see if the boat had any flex or weirdness going on, but nothing budged. The 2 hp motor putts along at great speed for trolling, the 35 'rude ran awesome, and the seating position was perfect! I was worried that it might be a bit uncomfortable reaching back for the tiller, as some of the tiller boats I have run in the past have been a real chore to handle, but it felt great and I never felt like I was fighting it. I'll probably add a tiller extension for when I am running the river since there is no shortage of debris floating down, and standing up is the only way you can really see what's in front of you when visibility is at 4" (It's like chocolate milk early in the season, and full of little landmines.)

[youtube]K198Pj9PL6A[/youtube]


----------



## kensho1976 (Jun 27, 2013)

That's a beautiful view. We don't have mountains like that in Florida! Heck, we don't have mountains at all. We're lucky if we have anything classified as a hill.

The boat is looking great. Regarding the back hatch, I used a piano hinge and small screws as well, but I had a lip for it to rest on all the way around. I never had it give way or even bend. I mounted the hinge between the hatch and the deck though, instead of on top, so I don't know if that matters.


----------



## Alex_c (Jun 27, 2013)

Yeah, I am going to make a lip for it to rest on too. There's a lip along the side where it opens and it's solid, but i clearly need one at the hinge too!


----------



## DanMC (Jun 27, 2013)

Now i just envy you !....great job !


----------



## Jonboat Jerry (Jun 27, 2013)

Excellent work Alex! Vancouver is a beautiful place.


----------



## Alex_c (Jun 27, 2013)

Jonboat Jerry said:


> Excellent work Alex! Vancouver is a beautiful place.



Thank you, it's a great place to live. The fishing opportunities are endless..



DanMC said:


> Now i just envy you !....great job !



Thanks! If you ever come to BC I can hook you up with a top notch guide if you're in to catching Salmon and huge 100+ lb sturgeon!

I still have a few things left to do on the boat, finish paint, finish building the anchor setup, mount rod holders, mount speaker boxes...but it felt great to get out on the water in my own boat after almost a year.


----------



## DOBSONFLY (Jul 1, 2013)

Good progress buddy, looks like the splash went well! Definitely beautiful landscape up in your neck of the woods, I was just southeast of you recently. Ephrata, Washington which was beautiful also and would have been a dream to be out on some of the waters I seen while there. These were from between Moses Lake and Grand Coulee. Nothing in Kansas can compare!


----------



## Alex_c (Jul 5, 2013)

That looks sweet Dobson, I bet the fishing there is awesome. 

Took the boat out this weekend on the lake. Everything works great but the seat mounts kinda suck, I am probably going to have to bite the bullet and get some pedestals, if I can get something that sits low enough. After some real world use, the swivels just have too much flex in them and the seat corners dig into the deck when leaning back to run the trolling motor etc...no good!

If anyone can suggest a solid, cost effective swivel mount that sticks up less than a few inches that would be great!

Anyway, the boat ran great, went almost scary fast with 2 people in it on a 1' chop on the lake :mrgreen:. The 20 mile drive up the dusty dirt road I think got a bit of dirt in the carb of the trolling motor, and it didn't work the first day, so I took it apart at the campsite and cleaned the carb out. Few things were clogged but it fired right up after I went over it. Went down to the lake that night at sundown and caught a couple nice 1 lb dolly vardens from the shore with a spoon, casting by the outlet of the creek right by the site. Lake was windy and the boat took a couple dings while beaching it on the rocky shore, but that's why I have a tin boat. :wink:


----------



## DOBSONFLY (Jul 5, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=321249#p321249 said:


> Alex_c » 8 minutes ago[/url]"]Lake was windy and the boat took a couple dings while beaching it on the rocky shore, but that's why I have a tin boat. :wink:




Ha ha yeah I got my first scratch in mine and knew it was then christened. Plus I like to think of them more as memories or battle wounds. Killer photography and scapes Alex! 

If you can access the bottom side of where the seats mount, you could weld some bolts to the swivel mount locations to act as studs (or even double nut and "sandwich" the swivel plate) and use a wing nut on the back side for quick attaching or detaching. Assuming that the quick change bracket is where the seats are deflecting.

Again....awesome splash! :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer:


----------



## Alex_c (Jul 5, 2013)

The deflection looks to be happening in the actual swivels themselves, they use a plastic bearing and don't have the big rivet thru the center like the standard ones. Only problem is that the standard swivels, which I have 2 of, don't fit the quick mounts, so you have to use the special springfield ones. Anyway, it kinda works for now but I'll change it soon. My priority now is finishing my river anchor setup so I can catch some 10-30lb salmon!


----------



## DOBSONFLY (Jul 6, 2013)

Good luck on the salmon that is too cool! You ever need a second just holler.... 8) 

I am headed out tomorrow on some local lakes with a friend, searching for bass mostly but may try for some catfish early morning. Not a whole lot of sights and such in Kansas.... but here is a taste of what we have available in the catfish world! I caught this from the bank on a private pond. 31 inches roughly and 16 lbs.


----------



## Alex_c (Jul 6, 2013)

Nice! I have never caught one before, they're pretty good eating arent they?


----------



## DOBSONFLY (Jul 6, 2013)

Some people like them some don't. I do like them. Deep fried anyway, I have put some fish on the grill and it is okay but not like a grilled salmon by any means. Just my opinion though. 

No luck for my fishing trip today. Cruised all over the lake and didn't catch anything other than some small bait fish. Lake that I went was over run with zebra mussels, wont be going back until those get under control.


----------



## SCARNG2011 (Jul 6, 2013)

dude, your tin is gorgeous! very impressed at the layout... looks soo good!

speaking of the seat pedestal... I bought a 7" from walmart and I don't like it. it flexes too much for my build as well... i'll stay posted on your build to see if someone submits an alternative.

great job again!


----------



## Alex_c (Jul 10, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=321382#p321382 said:


> DOBSONFLY » 06 Jul 2013, 11:39[/url]"]Some people like them some don't. I do like them. Deep fried anyway, I have put some fish on the grill and it is okay but not like a grilled salmon by any means. Just my opinion though.
> 
> No luck for my fishing trip today. Cruised all over the lake and didn't catch anything other than some small bait fish. Lake that I went was over run with zebra mussels, wont be going back until those get under control.




I flew over Lake Superior recently and you could see how bad the zebra mussels are from 30,000'... They are pretty nasty buggers. 

We have a few invasive species up here, which is why the use of live wells or live bait is banned in freshwater. They actually found a snakehead fish in a pond in the city recently, and they had to drain it to get it out. Those things are top of the food chain and would be pretty dangerous to native stocks. People that introduce these species whether knowingly or unknowingly need to get a clue!!



SCARNG2011 said:


> dude, your tin is gorgeous! very impressed at the layout... looks soo good!
> 
> speaking of the seat pedestal... I bought a 7" from <a href="https://www.walmart.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank" title="Link added by VigLink" class="vglnk"><span>walmart</span></a> and I don't like it. it flexes too much for my build as well... i'll stay posted on your build to see if someone submits an alternative.
> 
> great job again!



Thanks for the kind words. It's pretty comfortable to fish in and works great with 2 people fishing. 

I did a bit more investigating and the seats themselves also flex a bunch. I think I need to raise the seats a bit, as well as stiffen the seats up a bit. I might return them for something better if I can't make something work.



Today I started the final step in the paint job. I primed all of the exposed metal with etching primer and metal primer, and then I wet sanded the yellow to prep for the final coat. Tomorrow I will lay down some paint. I want to take the boat out this weekend, but I might just hop in my buddy's boat so the paint will have enough time to cure and dry. I would like to do 2 more coats ideally.


----------



## Alex_c (Jul 16, 2013)

Left the boat at home this weekend for the paint to cure and hooked in to a 10lb Chinook. First salmon of the year and first fish in my buddy's new rig (1546 Lowe Roughneck Frontier with a 40/25 Merc 4 stroke Jet). Caught this one at about 7:30 am and didn't have much more luck for the rest of the day. 

The paint is done on the boat - all I have to do is put everything back on and I should be able to leave it alone for a while. I'll post some pics up later once it's all buttoned up with its fresh new paint.


----------



## DOBSONFLY (Jul 16, 2013)

=D> Let's eat! :beer:


----------



## Alex_c (Jul 17, 2013)

If I smoke some I'll mail it to you, lol :beer: 

Here's a little vid of us goofing around at the end of the day. Water was about 4-6" deep at some spots haha.

[youtube]uiW_djImcxo[/youtube]


----------



## DOBSONFLY (Jul 17, 2013)

Just about snagged you a goose too! 8)


----------



## Alex_c (Jul 18, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=322764#p322764 said:


> DOBSONFLY » Today, 19:47[/url]"]Just about snagged you a goose too! 8)




hahaha yeah they were pretty startled to see us there. Felt kinda bad for bustin' up their party, but hey...top of the food chain right here :lol:


----------



## Alex_c (Jul 25, 2013)

I've been slacking on the updates but the boat has logged some decent time on the water so far. 

I finished the paint, and built a custom river anchor and mount/roller on the front. I use about a 25lb anchor with 15' of 5/16" chain to hold the boat in faster current. 

The boat runs awesome, and the motor is working better than ever.


Right now the river that I am usually fishing for chinook salmon this time of year is closed, but opens this weekend, so I have been fishing in one of the tributaries which is open and has produced a couple nice chinook for my buddy and I. 

I just picked up a 11'6" river fishing rod and a Shimano Calcutta 400B...soooo smooth and the super long rod has incredible action.

My girlfriend also got me a Garmin Echo 500C fish finder for my birthday so I am waiting for that to get shipped.

Storage in the boat is perfect. I can stow everything I need and more and keep the deck as open as possible for fishing. 

So far so good, the only thing it's really missing is cup holders. There have been far too many knocked over beers! I have some fold up ones kicking around, I just need to mount them. Planning on a big river camping/fishing trip this weekend so I have a couple things to get ready before then. Still looking for the first fish in the boat!


----------



## Alex_c (Dec 30, 2013)

Haven't been here in a while!

Some updates:

Took the boat out probably 30-40 times this summer/fall and caught a few dozen salmon. The boat fishes great with 2 people.

Hit a rock underwater on the river at full throttle (river visibility is low and the depth/structure changes every year). Hit so hard that it blew the shifter dog out the side of the gear case. I found a parts motor for $200, and took the time to replace the cylinder head, which had stripped spark plug holes, new head gasket, cleaned all the carbon out of the cylinders, new thermostat, new water jacket gasket, new drive shaft (old one got warped a bit due to the impact). Total for everything was pretty pricey, but now I have an almost complete parts motor I can pillage in the future.

Took the boat out in the ocean about 3 km offshore in some pretty choppy weather. Was hitting some 3-4' swells, and the boat handled surprisingly well. Having a tiller in that situation was an advantage due to the extra control. Caught a couple Salmon and some crabs, so it was worth it!

Installed a Garmin 500C fish finder. Amazing unit and I have nothing bad to say about it.

Added 2 downriggers and mounts which have caught me a 4lb Rainbow trout, and a few Salmon from the ocean. Hope to do more ocean fishing next year.

Took it out this weekend for some steelhead fishing, which should continue to get better throughout the winter, well into March.

Boat is still completely water tight! Not a single leak to report after some hard use for the last 6 months.

Some small qualms about the products I used:

Self etching primer wasn't really the right choice. Should have used a zinc chromate primer, but it would have been very hard to source, and I was fast tracking the build in time for fishing season. Only a few high wear areas and corners have had the paint peel, and it won't be too hard to touch up.

Spar urethane seems to be holding up well on the transom, but the spots that I used stain on have shown some cracking in the varnish. I don't it's bad enough to compromise the wood, but I will add a few more coats in the spring to mitigate any water ingress that could cause premature rot. A good economical choice, but next time I will spend the money on epoxy. I managed to inherit 2 5x10' sheets of a material from work called "Alumapanel", which is a plastic core with thin gauge aluminum on either side and a white powdercoat finish. If only I had this stuff when I was still building the boat! Would have worked well on the floor.


----------



## Alex_c (Jul 2, 2014)

Couple of highlights from last year...


----------



## Alex_c (Jul 31, 2014)

Some more updates - 

Added a Noco Gen 1 Mini charger with a 110v inlet plug. No more clipping automotive battery charger leads on to my buss bars to charge! This charger will not only save me time, but it's designed to keep the battery healthy. Much better than charging it 2-3 times a season like I did before.

I had a 2hp Yamaha motor which ran great but it was stolen . It was slightly underpowered for ocean trolling and the internal tank was a PITA. I picked up a 1975 Johnson 4hp for $225 that was sitting for 4 years but started when I bought it. Figured I'd replace the impeller and be on my way...

Unfortunately the drive shaft was frozen in the crank. Took me two days of penetrating oil, tonnes of heat and swearing to break it free. After removing the power head, I had a bunch of gaskets to replace. Long story short, I ended up rebuilding the starter, carb, fuel pump, replaced the fuel lines and plugs, cleaned a ton of carbon from the head and exhaust manifold...etc.

$400 all in and this thing looks and runs like new. I'll take it.


----------



## jdmjerrystl (Aug 16, 2014)

alex_c where is the beautiful place you fish at? would love to plan a trip out to wherever and fish in the mountains!


----------



## Alex_c (Aug 23, 2014)

That would be beautiful BC, Canada. The Vancouver area has it all, lakes, rivers, saltwater... You can pretty much catch salmon 365 days a year here, with the late summer and fall being the best times.


----------



## jdmjerrystl (Aug 29, 2014)

I noticed b.c. after I made the post I figured it was a canadian spot, wow gorgeous country up there be nice to take trip and visit that scenery!


----------



## Alex_c (Sep 3, 2014)

Now is the best time to come here and slay some salmon. If you are planning a trip up here I can recommend some good guides/spots, as well as other activities not related to fishing.


----------



## onthewater102 (Oct 6, 2014)

Saw a pic of your sub-floor ribbing structure on the decking - y/n thread & wanted to compliment you on the beautiful work.


----------



## Alex_c (Oct 22, 2014)

Thank you. The boat isn't very pretty anymore after 2 seasons of hard use, but she still catches fish. Spar urethane hasn't held up too well on the decks or transom, so I am going to re finish them next season I think.


----------



## Alex_c (May 12, 2017)

Well, sad news. I sold her last week. It was tough, but I have a 16' welded aluminum centre console sitting in the driveway waiting to get rigged up. Here are some pics of her before she went to her new owner. I'll post some pics of the new one once it's rigged.


----------

