# 1985 Sears Gamefisher 1436



## kbkid (Sep 16, 2009)

As some of you know, I purchased a 1985 Sears Gamefisher 1436 about a month ago. I’ve spent hours searching the forum looking for ideas on how I’m going to modify the boat. Let me first start off with the initial pictures.

















As you can see, the transom is pretty much shot. The entire piece of plywood is rotten and needs to be replaced. So this past weekend, I began my first project on the boat: replacing the transom.


----------



## kbkid (Sep 16, 2009)

There was a total of twenty four rivets and fasteners I needed to remove in order to get the old transom out. 






I began by taking all of the fasteners out and I used the old transom as a template. I transfered the pattern onto a piece of exterior plywood. I chose exterior plywood because my local Lowe's did not carry marine grade and I already had the exterior. I then took two piece of aluminum and cut the same template out of it. I wanted to give the transom a little more backbone. 

Instead of using rivets, I used stainless steel screws and fasteners. I chose to go with stainless steel screws as opposed to rivets because I had them on hand as well. I picked up some marine grade sealant and added some into each hole before inserting the screws. 






I haven't taken the boat out on the water after replacing the transom, so this weekend should be the leakage test. I'm hoping the sealant will hold up, but if it doesn't, I'm going to have to find rivets large enough for.

Does anyone know where I can pick up rivets similar to those that I drilled out?


----------



## Hydrilla (Sep 16, 2009)

I'm afraid I can't contribute, other than to say you've got a real nice looking rig, and I'm looking forward to seeing your progress!


----------



## kbkid (Sep 16, 2009)

Thanks I appreciate it.

I've decided to just stick with leveling out the floor and adding a storage compartment in the front and enclosing the rear. Its still pretty nice out here, so the fishing comes first. Once winter rolls around, I'll be working on it much more. I was just glad to get the motor up and running before the end of the season.


----------



## Rat (Sep 16, 2009)

If you used 5200 or 4200 on those bolts and screws you will not have a problem with leaks; but rivets can be bought from may places, I usually get mine from Western Fasteners.


----------



## kbkid (Sep 16, 2009)

It was not 3M 5200 that I used. I don't have the actual product with me now, but it was a silicone sealant.


----------



## Rat (Sep 17, 2009)

Marine grade Silicone will be okay for a little while at least. If it were me I would clean out the Silicone and go back with 4200, but that's just me. 

I didn't read where you treated your transom either. Did you seal it somehow with epoxy or something like Thompson's?


----------



## kbkid (Sep 17, 2009)

The transom was not treated with anything. I was hoping since it was exterior grade ply, it would hold up to a little bit of weathering. 

The boat is garage kept, so if the transom holds up for a couple seasons, I would be more than happy.

Is it true I can find the 5200 and 4200 at most Wal-Marts? If so, I may pick some up. I'm hoping the silicone will be fine for now, but if I ever go back and use rivets, I'll be sure to use the 3M product.


----------



## CRAPPIE_SLAYER (Sep 18, 2009)

I read that it was at wal-mart also, but after checking 4 local ones, tractor supply, and 3 other auto parts stores, ended up going to one of the boat dealers down the road from me. OUCH!! Cost me $23 for a tube of 5200. Hope it works as good as everyone says.


----------



## Kurt Loup (Sep 18, 2009)

My local Home Depot has 5200 for around $10. Nearly half the price of the West Marine in town.

Kurt


----------



## kbkid (Sep 18, 2009)

I'm going to see how the silicone holds up this weekend. 

I'm in the early stages of modifying so if it turns out the silicone doesn't work, I'll check Wal-Mart and Lowe's for the 3M products.


----------



## kbkid (Sep 28, 2009)

I have a handful of rivets on the floor of the boat that have a slow leak. Over the course of the day, enough water fills up in the back of the boat to bother me. So this morning, I placed an order with Fasco Unlimited for some Steelfex. 

Hopefully this stuff is as good as you guys say it is. I also saw over the weekend that Gander Mtn. sells the 3M 4200 and 5200 as well as a marine grade silicone, similar to what I used originally.

Hopefully they Steelflex comes in before the end of the week so I can get some work done. 

Jerry told me I wouldn't have to remove all of the original paint from the bottom of the boat, but to just scuff it up instead. The paint isn't flaking off or anything, but it is scratched up pretty well. I may just go over it a little bit.

I'd like to get the leak taken care of before I begin any decking or carpeting inside the boat.


----------



## kbkid (Oct 3, 2009)

Today I was able to get the Steelflex put on the bottom of the boat. I ordered it on Monday and had it four days later, which I thought was pretty quick considering I had to send them a check first. 

I would have liked to had a dark gray pigment, but this was one of the few colors they didn’t carry. I know others have asked what colors Fasco has available so I got the list of colors from Jerry at Fasco and they included: black, white, grey (light), fasco green, brown, yellow, fasco red, fasco blue, Hialeah blue, and beige. I opted for the black pigment and I am actually happy I did.

The weather was in the mid-70s today with a slight breeze. I began this morning by sanding down the bottom and sides of the boat. I then masked off the area that I had planned not to paint and I finally wiped the area down with acetone. 
My father and I began by mixing small batches of the epoxy (about a half a quart at a time). The directions that come with the Steelflex are pretty thorough, so there was new confusion on what needed to be done. I ended up having a little more than half a gallon left over after doing two coats on the boat. I wish Fasco Unlimited had smaller portions for sale because now I have so much left over. 

The only suggestions I have are:
1. Work in small batches.
2. Wear gloves and mask off any area you don’t want the epoxy on. With the wind blowing, the epoxy wanted to blow when we began pouring it onto the boat. 
3. It is much more helpful to have someone working with you. 
4. Have a clean and organized work space. Though you do not have to rush when rolling the Steelflex on, you do need to work at a steady pace. Having an organized work space helps considerably. 

Finally here are some pictures. I will take some additional photos tomorrow morning once it sets up for good. The final picture gives you an idea how well the epoxy seals the rivets up.































If anyone has any questions, please don’t hesitate to ask.


----------



## kbkid (Oct 4, 2009)

Here are some additional pictures I took this afternoon after taking it to the river.











Its funny how two pictures taken at different elevations can make a big difference. That is how the boat sits on the trailer. Should I change anything, as in the supports?

I'm pretty sure I have enough weight in front of the trailer axle, but here is a shot of the back.






The center support on the trailer I just made today. In the picture you'll see that the previous owner had a roller bow stop on the front of the boat and on the underside. I felt it was not the correct thing to use so I put a carpeted 2x6 in its place.






I used the bow stop, but I two two U-bolts and mounted it to the 2x6. I then took a router and recessed the nut and washers in the 2x6.

Should I do something similar on the front bow stop, where the winch is?

Finally here is an top view of the boat as it is today. I wanted to get the rivets taken care of before I did any major work on the inside. I am very pleased with the Steelflex and it kept the boat dry on its first trip out.


----------



## Zum (Oct 4, 2009)

Nice work on the steelflex.
On your trailer you may(should)lengthen your bunks to support your transom.Your hull could develope a hook if not supported.Doesn't look like you can go any further with your winch unless you lengthen the tongue maybe just longer 2x4's will be good enough.


----------



## kbkid (Oct 4, 2009)

I will definitely lengthen the 2x4s eventually.

Does anyone see a problem with the 2x6 I added mid way up the bottom of the boat?


----------



## teejay (Oct 4, 2009)

Did the steelflex stop, or slow down the leaks?


----------



## kbkid (Oct 4, 2009)

The Steelflex completely stopped the leaks.

I began by first rebucking the rivets and then put the Steelflex on. I am very pleased with the product.

I have a little over a half gallon left over if anyone would be interested in buying some. If not, its no big deal. I wish they would sell it in small quantities though, thats my only regret.


----------



## CRAPPIE_SLAYER (Oct 5, 2009)

Good looking job on the paint


----------



## kbkid (Oct 5, 2009)

Thanks I appreciate it.

Now I need to decide on a color for the upper portion of the boat. Although it won't get sprayed until Spring, its nice to have a plan.


----------



## kbkid (Oct 10, 2009)

I ran into a little problem this weekend with the Steelflex I applied last week.

If you remember, this is how each rivet was covered last week when the Steelflex was put on. 







As you can see, the rivets appear to be pretty well covered with the epoxy. It pretty much formed a capsule around the rivet head.

Today I took the boat out and found that about three rivets have a leak still. Once I got back home, we flipped the boat over and found this:


























It appears as though the Steelflex cracked around the head of the rivets. I'm not exactly sure how to handle the situation now. I'm thinking just putting a layer or two more of Steelflex over the rivets after rebunking them for the second time. I'm going to give Jerry a call this week and ask him about it.

The weather was high 70s last weekend when this was applied, so I doubt the weather had anything to do with the failure.

I just thought I would share with everyone the problems I've run into with it.


----------



## cubanredneck (Oct 10, 2009)

put some 5200 around the rivets before applying the steel flex


----------



## kbkid (Oct 11, 2009)

I'm guessing its a little late for that now.

What are my options now?


----------



## Hydrilla (Oct 11, 2009)

Could you not sand it completely off the rivet and surrounding area, add some 5200 and then re-Steelflex? I have never used the stuff but I can't see anything you'd add over the top of it really working, unless just adding more Steelflex would do it.


----------



## kbkid (Oct 11, 2009)

That's what I'm assuming my only option is. The Steelflex is pretty hard once it sets up, but I think I may be able to sand it down.

I would have never thought the Steelflex would have cracked in the first place though.

I may give them a call this week and seek suggestions from Jerry.


----------



## Hydrilla (Oct 11, 2009)

Yeah, that's pretty disappointing. I guess it's not a cure all for leaky rivets, can at least be thought of as insurance but it seems like leaky rivets need to be addressed prior to Steelflex application.


----------



## kbkid (Oct 11, 2009)

Thats the thing though, I rebucked the every rivet the best I could before applying the Steelflex.


----------



## cubanredneck (Oct 11, 2009)

just apply the 5200 on the inside if you can reach the rivets whats happening is your getting flex and the steel flex is not sufficiently flexible but the 5200 will be .I had something similar happen on a piece of equipment I used the stuff on.My problem was caused by vibration


----------



## kbkid (Oct 11, 2009)

I can reach the rivet, but I'm afraid I wouldn't be able to seal it up good enough with the 5200.

The rivet is what mounts the ribs running perpendicular to the boat. I could put it on the head of it, but I think under the rib it would still leak.

I'll have to get a picture to show what I mean.


----------



## Rat (Oct 11, 2009)

Looks like shear forces cracked the steelflex. Most likely you have a rivet hole that is elongated, or wallowed out somewhat, causing the rivet to move along the x axis, cracking the steelflex around the head. 

Because it is in the hull bottom and through the lateral rib, and knowing that you have rebucked it, it is proly the panel with the elongated hole and the rib hole is the right size (the rib being the thicker of the two), causing the barrel of the rivet to expand to the hole size of the rib, but not the panel, thus allowing it to move enough to crack the steelfelx. The hull panel is moving enough to cause the rivet to move. This is just a guess based on what I see and what you have said. 

It may be as easy as drilling the hole out to the next size rivet and installing a bigger rivet. That's what I would do first before trying to patch it with 5200 or something similar.


----------



## kbkid (Oct 11, 2009)

Had I read your message earlier Rat, I definitely would have taken your advice.

What I ended up doing earlier was sanding the Steelflex down around the rivets that were giving me trouble. Once I got it cleaned up, I rebucked them again. What surprised me was two of the rivets moved considerably. I was quite surprised that either I didn't get it the first time around or I missed this one entirely.

I then went ahead and reapplied the Steelflex to the areas I sanded down. I made sure to get it pretty thick on the rivets this time around as well.


----------



## Jim (Nov 12, 2009)

Any update on this? Did you happen to talk to Jerry? How is it holding up?


----------



## kbkid (Jan 3, 2010)

Update 03 January 2010

Today I spent a good portion of the morning beginning to build flooring and decking in the boat. It has been a few months since the previous update because I'm away at school most of the time. I figured I'd try to get some work done while I'm home for winter break.

I began with making a level floor behind the rear seat in front of the transom. This area will house the 6 gal. fuel tank and possibly a battery. I never knew how difficult it was going to be to get all of the angles right with the piece of plywood. Nothing has been square yet with this project. The transom and both sides of the boat are all angled, so I had to cut the ply at an angle as well.











I plan on coating all of the wood in Thompson's Water Seal before carpeting the wood.

My initial plan was to do as I've done as well as putting a piece of carpeted plywood on the top of the bench where I would have a hinged lid to have access to the fuel tank. I still may do this, but I would have to raise it up more than the 3/4" the plywood would give me because fuel tank sits higher than the seat.

I then turned my attention to the middle bench seat. After seeing asinz's and RBuffordTJ's build log, I decided I want to cut the middle bench out of the boat, which would open the boat up a bit more. I wanted to figure out a way to brace where the seat was.

My plan is to cut the bench out and add two 2x4 braces on both sides of the bench. When I took the photo, I had not cut the bottom portion of the brace, but I feel that the brace will prevent the boat from "tacoing" and it will add a little bit of strength in the middle and for the front flooring.











I plan on cutting the bench out in the morning and adding the bracing before I head to work.

From the rear bench to the middle bench to just past the middle, I'd like to have a rod locker on both sides of the boat. I'll try to sketch something up in paint or SketchUp to show how I envision the boat to be once completed.


----------



## danmyersmn (Jan 4, 2010)

kbkid said:


> Update 03 January 2010
> 
> My initial plan was to do as I've done as well as putting a piece of carpeted plywood on the top of the bench where I would have a hinged lid to have access to the fuel tank. I still may do this, but I would have to raise it up more than the 3/4" the plywood would give me because fuel tank sits higher than the seat.



You could cut the bottom out of the bench and frame a box out of wood or aluminum to hold your fuel tank? That way you could drop it down to the floor and gain your needed clearance?


----------



## kbkid (Jan 4, 2010)

danmyersmn said:


> kbkid said:
> 
> 
> > Update 03 January 2010
> ...



That's a possibility, but I may also just raise the bench plywood up, that way I can have a little more support for the chair base.

I got a little more work done this morning, so my next post will have additional pictures.


----------



## kbkid (Jan 4, 2010)

This morning I took the plunge and cut out the middle bench.

You now have a better idea how I am going to add bracing where the original bench was.






A plywood face will be cut for the outsides of the bench. On both sides of the boat where the bench is left, I'm going to enclose this space and hopefully have two 7'6" rod lockers. The top of the lockers will be just below the gunwales. 






I used a scrap piece of plywood to show the flooring and the second picture shows how far up the second level flooring will go to.











The front of the boat I'd like to have the highest deck. I'll run it straight off the front bench and bring it back to the rib you can see in the previous photograph. Below this area, I'll have storage and I'm even thinking about putting a pedestal for the days when I am out by myself. Eventually I'd like to pick up a bow mount foot controlled trolling motor so this deck will give me enough space to cast and operate the motor. I didn't want to take the decking up any higher because I'm sure it would get far less stable.






The final photograph shows how far forward the front decking will reach as well as the top of the rod lockers. The rolling stool is 13" tall, which I figured would be able the height of a pedestal, minus a chair.






Bare with me, I'm no photographer. If anyone has any questions, or suggestions please ask away. I'm open for ideas and would appreciate any input or criticism.


----------



## kbkid (Jan 4, 2010)

Also, does anyone know off hand what the footprint is for a MinnKota Edge bow mount trolling motor? What are the dimensions when the motor is deployed?


----------



## kbkid (Jan 5, 2010)

Here are two additional pictures I took this after bolting everything together today.











Tomorrow, I will tackle trying to remove some of the foam from the rear bench in hopes of mounting a frame for my chair base to mount to. I'm also going to check my local Lowes to see if they have marine carpet, since I haven't found it on their website.


----------



## dyeguy1212 (Jan 5, 2010)

was there foam under that bench prior to cutting it out? If so, youre pretty good at cleaning up.. I never got all the bits and pieces out of mine


----------



## kbkid (Jan 5, 2010)

Yes. The entire bench was a foam block. After I took the Sawzall to the bench, the foam came out in three pieces with minimal bits left over. I then took the shop-vac and picked up anything that was left behind.

Tomorrow, I'm going have to cut the foam out from the underside. I'm sure this will be much messier, but it has to be done.


----------



## dyeguy1212 (Jan 5, 2010)

Wow must be nice.. I literally too a spade shovel to mine... but all I did was cut out a rectangle on the top and leave the rest for storage


----------



## kbkid (Jan 6, 2010)

Today I ran into a little bit of trouble, or mess I should say.

My plan was to dig out a block of foam from the rear bench and remove it from the underside of the bench. There is about a six inch opening across the bottom of the hull and I figured I could break it off into chucks to remove it. I was doing all of this because I needed something study to fasten the 3/4" plywood board on top of the seat and to give the boat chair something to mount to. I was going to make a 2x4 frame and mount it under the bench, then attach the plywood to it, along with the pedestal base for the chair.







The picture above is after I had picked up majority of the foam. You can see that it came apart in individual pellets. I guess I spoke too soon yesterday when I was talking about the foam coming out in one block.

An hour into the project, I had only put a small dent in the styrofoam. It was too time consuming to try and cut the foam and dig it out with my hands. It was also making a terrible mess that stuck to anything and everything. So I made a change of plans...






As you can see I cut the rear bench out as well. I am going to do just as I did on the middle bench and build a 2x4 frame. The frame on the middle bench seems pretty stout and sturdy, so I figured I'd just replicate it and do the same in the rear.











On both sides of the boat, I'm going add a small rod locker to hold hopefully up to four rods in each. These lockers will extend out just as far as the old benches are left. Tomorrow I hope to begin framing the lockers and getting those covered.


----------



## dyeguy1212 (Jan 6, 2010)

Sorry for cursing you :lol: #-o


----------



## kbkid (Jan 6, 2010)

Ah, no big deal. 

I kind of like the amount of room that opens up once the benches are taken out. 

Also, I was thinking today that maybe a rod locker won't be quite possible. I'm beginning to think I'm trying to squeeze too many components into the boat I have now. I may just make a narrow "countertop" between where the rear and middle bench were and extend it up to where the front deck will be.

I don't want to make the front deck too tall, so I may just run it directly off the very front bench. Tomorrow afternoon my description should be better to under, as I should have most of the framing cut.

Check back tomorrow for additional pictures.


----------



## dyeguy1212 (Jan 6, 2010)

kbkid said:


> Ah, no big deal.
> 
> I kind of like the amount of room that opens up once the benches are taken out.
> 
> ...



I'd go with both of your self-given suggestions. I was thinking the same, but didn't want to discourage you. 

Rod lockers always seem like a good idea, but sometimes they turn into a big space eater.


----------



## kbkid (Jan 6, 2010)

I'm always open to suggestions, so don't hesitate, especially if you think something can be done better.

With the rod lockers, I realized space was the issue. I was trying to keep the lockers within the ten inches I left of the benches. By doing so, I needed to have one wall of the locker pretty strong, as it would have the hinged locker lid. I also needed something just below the gunwales to catch the lid when it closed. By trying to have both of those criteria met, it cut down on the inside size of the locker.

I think I will be happier with what I have planned now. This is my first tin boat I've modified and I'm sure it won't be the last. Hopefully I'll learn a few things from this project and I'll be able to do better on the next.


----------



## kbkid (Jan 7, 2010)

Next, add a piece of plywood to finish the "countertop" around the boat. The countertop will run at the same elevation as the front deck.






In the front, I want to bring the front deck out to the middle rib, which equals about a 42" front deck. I am going to mount a pedestal base on the deck for the days when I am alone, therefore I can remove my middle seat and mount it on the deck. 

Beneath the deck I plan to have a dry storage container and hopefully mount two marine battery on the other side. Do you guys think I have enough room on the front deck to mount a bow mount trolling motor and use the foot control comfortably?


----------



## dyeguy1212 (Jan 7, 2010)

If you keep the TM off to one side, you'll have plenty of room. Thats the nice thing about a square bow, the TM doesnt have to be at the centerline of the boat.


----------



## kbkid (Jan 7, 2010)

Thats good to know.

I'm hoping to have some time this weekend to begin building the front deck and hopefully get all the wood cut so I can begin coating everything in Waterseal.

Also, I've see a few people mention that Lowe's has marine carpet. I went there this morning in hopes of finding some and the closest I could find was interior/exterior carpet. It was gray in color and the sign said it was good in all weather types and had a marine backing. Is this what most people get to use on their boats or is there something more specific?

The carpet I saw was: 12' Stratos Gray Carpet. It sold for 5.88/yd. I even took down the part number in hopes of finding more information about it online, which I've had no luck with thus far. I know Stratos is a company that makes glass boats, so I'm wondering if this is the same company or just a coincident.


----------



## kbkid (Jan 10, 2010)

I got a little more work done this afternoon. I have most of the framing done in the entire boat, whats left is just cutting plywood for the floors and deck.






This was just a rough cut for the "countertops". I hope to finish cutting it tomorrow and get around to cutting the floor sections by mid-week.


----------



## HammerDown (Jan 11, 2010)

Great thread! keep it comin!


----------



## kbkid (Jan 11, 2010)

Thanks HammerDown!

Today I was able to get everything but the floors cut for the boat.

Below is a picture just how cluttered and dirty the boat gets while I'm fooling with it.





Here are both side panels after mounting them...
















Here is also a picture of the front deck. The pedestal base is not mounted yet because I'm unsure where it is going yet. I'm hoping the front deck has enough space to mount the trolling motor and still have enough room to operate it the foot control. I'm still debating about whether a foot control is the type I will settle for. It would be nice to have both hands free, but for this boat, I'm not sure if it has the space. I am still hoping to run across a larger jon boat, so maybe I'll hold off for now...






What do you guys think?


----------



## Nick Jones (Jan 11, 2010)

Man that boat looks great but you might want to put it in the water and sit in the front to make sure it is not too high before you make it permanent. I made this mistake with my first mod and ended up getting rid of it because it was too unstable. Just a suggestion. looks great though. Wish I would have thought to do that on the first mod I had.


----------



## kbkid (Jan 11, 2010)

I've been thinking I should probably take it to the river and check it out. The only time I'll use the front deck is when I'm out by myself on the water and just trolling around.


----------



## kbkid (Jan 15, 2010)

Well after considering the front deck and the stability issues that could arise, I decided to change my plans once again. I was unable to take the boat to the river or lake this week because the dock at the river is flooded and the lake is frozen over.

I'm going to do away with the front casting deck idea and just have two pedestals on the boat. One in the rear and originally planned and the second one will be further towards the front of the boat than previous said.

If you remember, this is how the front deck was going to be:






With that concept, I was able to have two storage areas on both sides of the pedestal. 

Today I tore out the decking and started with a clean slate again.






I moved the front storage area up to the next rib of the boat, which leaves me with one compartment in front of the original bench in the front of the boat. The compartment measures 36L"x 14W"x14H". I'm hoping this leaves me enough room to have two batteries and then some extra space.






It will have a hinged lid and I'm hoping to be able to mount a trolling motor on the front.

Finally, I will extend the deck from the middle bench area further more and mount the pedestal in reach of the compartment and trolling motor.






That's the plan thus far. Any comments or ideas?


----------



## aviationgrade (Jan 20, 2016)

kbkid said:


> The transom was not treated with anything. I was hoping since it was exterior grade ply, it would hold up to a little bit of weathering.
> 
> The boat is garage kept, so if the transom holds up for a couple seasons, I would be more than happy.
> 
> Is it true I can find the 5200 and 4200 at most Wal-Marts? If so, I may pick some up. I'm hoping the silicone will be fine for now, but if I ever go back and use rivets, I'll be sure to use the 3M product.


The reason they didn't use treated wood in that boat is because the treated plywood of that time had copper chromium arsenate in it, which is very corrosive to aluminum-don't ask me how I know this. Nowadays they do make cca free treated marine plywood just for aluminum boats. So its safe to use on your boat. I have a 12' Gamefisher that I bought when I was 13 years old-I'm now 42-and I didn't have to replace the transom until about 5 years ago. I used stainless steel button head machine screws with 3M 5200 and they held up just fine. In fact, every time I find loose rivets in the bottom of the boat I just drill out the rivet and replace it with a machine screw and 5200 and they all hold up just great. Just make sure you use the nylon lock nuts to hold them in place.

I hope this helps


----------

