# 76 Richline 14ft V Bottom Conversion



## Ron42261 (May 12, 2008)

Hi All
Im new here & looks like a Great site.

While back I bought a 76 Richline 14ft V Bottom with a 6hp. Crysler and trailer for $300. Ive been working on it cleaned it up, fix the trailer transom brace welded,used the Cabelas Alum. boat patch on the rivets. Worked on the outborad and its running.



I bought a new Min Kota Power Drive - no auto pilot- 50 lb. trust think it will be big enough for this boat?

I would like to deck it from the front seat to the bow at the same hight as the seat. I was thinking to mount the trolling motor- I would block up to the hight of the boat rail ( make the blocking the same size as the trolling motor mount) I would like a hinged lid and keep my battery up front.

I also want to beck from the back bench to the transom and cut out around the outborad and bob off back corners so I can hinge it for my gas and storage. Also like a floor in between benches

I dont mind screwing or riveting wood to the benches but really not wanting to do that to the hull.
How you guys attaching your framing to the boat. Im not worried about the floor and the back deck but the deck up front in the bow will have the trolling motor attached to it. I figured it needs to be soild.

Thanks Ron


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## Jim (May 12, 2008)

Welcome Ron,
Thanks for joining!

Snowboardinmn did his this way: https://tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=2636&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=20

Alumacraftjoe did his like this: https://tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=1555&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=20

Backpain did his like this: https://tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=1319

This is just three of the many. You gave me an idea. I think I am going to try to organize the mods somehow for quick reference.

Take a quick look at the youtube video of the members mods for more ideas: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNyg5gvA5b8

Jim


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## ky_madman (May 13, 2008)

Here's a link to my build
https://tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2329
Posted it in the wrong area.
Hey Jim, you wanna move it to this area?
Anyway, Good Luck! Can't wait to see the photos.


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## Ron42261 (May 13, 2008)

Thanks Guys
Tell me what I need to do the wiring. All I have right now is a trolling motor , I like to add a fish finder, fishing light & spot light latter on . 
Thanks


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## Old Bill (May 13, 2008)

Ron, I have a 1957 Richline 14' boat that I've been considering adding a deck from the bow seat to the second seat aft.

As you can see in the below photo all I've done so far is clobber together some 2 x 2 framing. Maybe some day I'll buy some 1/2" plywood and finish the job. But...maybe not!







The object wrapped in a black garage bag is a body I forgot to dump last weekend! OK, would you believe it's a sand bag?? 

Switchback also owns a 14' Richline boat and has made some great modifications to it. You can view them at:
https://tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=1600


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## Ron42261 (May 15, 2008)

I bought me 2 sheets of CDX 1/2 ply. and 1 gallon of water seal today.
I guess Ill dive in see what kind of mess I can come up with.
I finshed up water proffing all the rivets and the 3 runners on the bottom last night.
I plan on painting the inside bottom with bed coating - just in case Ive missed anything from the bottom side.

Ill get some pics og my progress.

Hoping some one might tell me what kind of prep I need for the Dupli-Color bed coating on the alum.

Thanks
Ron


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## switchback (May 15, 2008)

Ron, I have the 50 lb. thrust minnkota foot control tm on my boat and it works great for that size boat.

Bill, looks good so far.


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## Ron42261 (May 16, 2008)

Thought I would post a pic. 

I Used Cabelas Alum. boat patch on all the rivets that is in the water. 
On the 3 runners things I use Super Blue silacon the stuff in a caulkin tube you get at the parts store that you use for gaskets. Man that stuff really stinks.
I have it sealed from the outside and now Im ready to paint the bed liner in side. Its black , they told me its paintable when dry. I may do the entire inside with it not sure yet.
Im planin on doing the floor and decks this weekend- I may do my framing a little different .
Ill get some more pics.
Thanks Ron


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## Old Bill (May 16, 2008)

Ron, the boat is looking very good!

Just curious, but, did you seal all the rivets because they leaked, or were you just taking precariously measures?

Maybe I was just lucky, but when i bought my Richline last year none of the rivets leaked.


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## Ron42261 (May 16, 2008)

Bill
I water tested it and crawled under it - I had maybe 12 rivets leaking but not bad, someone had painted the bottom with roof tar years ago I wanted to be sure . 



I made double sure this evening I painted the inside with bed liner.
Woodwork starts Sat.
Ron


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## Ron42261 (May 16, 2008)

Bill
Looks like your boat is in pretty good shape, I think my boat was a rental at on time the marinas around here I was told used to rent Richline boats they had bought from Bass Pro. Mine had an old Bass Pro sticker on it.

To many Ol Country Boys like me out catfishin in her shes got a ding or two.
I gave $300.00 for boat trailer and 6hp. outborad 
Ron


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## Ron42261 (May 17, 2008)

I got a little more done today.
Nothing is attached nor water sealed yet ran out of plywood.
Need to get hinges also,
I did my framing a little different - I made sleepers that sit on the ribs & on the fronts and backs of the benches I scribed ply to fit and attached a cleat to carry my floor.

The bow "I still need to make a shelf for my battery" the way I made it- it slides back to the front bench and down at the bow. The alum. benches have a small lip & I cut a dado in the back of the framing to lock it down when its slid in place. 

I will screw the ply to the benches and cleats nothing is attached to the hull.
I will deck the back with a filp up lid at the transom. I will also ply the top of the center bench.

I was thinking about runing the carpet up the sides even with the tops of the benches. Is there some kind of a strip I can attach the top edge of the carpet on the sides of the boat, something like a trim ?????????
I really wasnt wanting to glue the carpet to the alum. I would like to keep everything removable.

Heres a few pics.
Ron


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## Waterwings (May 17, 2008)

Nice work! Just a thought concerning not gluing the carpet to the sides: What about using some sturdy adhesive-backed Velcro along the edges of the hull, and the opposite side of the velcro on the back of the carpet? Not sure if it would hold well on the aluminum or the carpet, but it's the only idea I have so far


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## bobessary (May 17, 2008)

thi only thought is get some of the thin flat strips of aluminum and use it like a tac strip on the carpet raises the cost a little but might look nice.... also much like the other v-hull folks have you thought about using styrofoam to support your floating edges of the floor...good progress on what you have done so far keep us up to date


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## Ron42261 (May 18, 2008)

I have another problem.
I was looking at the rear bench seeing what I need to deck it back to the transom.My 6 gal fule tank sticks above the bench and leaves no room for mounting cleats. So Im going to need 3 gal tank.

My ? is should I get 2-3 gal. tanks ??? I have a old 6hp. outborad & havent had it out yet really havent a clue how much gas it uses.
Maybe it will run all day on 3 gal.??

If I went with 2- 3 gal. tanks - 1 each side of my transom brace is there any kind of plumbing where I can connect both tanks to the main fule line befor the primer blub? or would it be better to just have like a quick connect
on each tank? is there such??

Thanks Ron


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## Old Bill (May 18, 2008)

Ron, you are making great progress with the work on your boat!

I have a Nissan 4 HP four-stroke motor (boosted to 6 HP) and it will burn less than one quart of gasoline an hour. If your 6 HP motor is a two-stroke, it would be my guess that it will burn one quart or slightly more in an hour.

If so, a three gallon fuel tank should last you all day.

Based upon my experiences with small outboard motors I would strongly suggest that you spend $22.00 and buy a fuel water separator and install it between your fuel tank(s) and the motor. The idle and main jets on the smaller motors are very small and tend to blockage with all the trash and water in todays gasoline!






If you should install one, be sure and install the fuel line bulb between the filter and the motor.

Keep the photos coming!


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## Ron42261 (May 18, 2008)

Thanks Bill
I will get a fuel water separator and get a filter - or does the fuel water separator do it all ? The plumbing on the old motor looks rigged any how & needs reworking. Latter on Ill get some pics of it to see what I need to do.

I went and picked up my carpet , edge strips, glue,plywood,& a hinge.
I may wish I had of spent the $ and bought SS - I bought the nickel plated hinge. 
I dont know If Im going to finish it by next weekend like I had planned.
Still alot of work to do 
Thanks Ron


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## Old Bill (May 18, 2008)

Ron42261 said:


> Thanks Bill
> I will get a fuel water separator and get a filter - or does the fuel water separator do it all ? The plumbing on the old motor looks rigged any how & needs reworking. Latter on Ill get some pics of it to see what I need to do.
> 
> I went and picked up my carpet , edge strips, glue,plywood,& a hinge.
> ...



Ron, the fuel water separator kit come with a spin on/off filter that will work both with plain gasoline and gasoline mixed with two-stroke oil. Basspro has them for $21.99. I got mine from Academy for $19.99 and Wal-mart also has them for slightly more. They all look like they are made by the same company...in China!  i've been told that the filter should be changed once a year. Filters cost about $8 to $9.00.

The nickel plated hinges should last a very long time before they start rusting.


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## Ron42261 (May 18, 2008)

Thanks again Bill

Dadgum it I finally have the wood work 99.9% done [-o< 
I all ready had my ply. scribed to fit sitting on top the back seat.

What I had in mind when I started the back deck wasnt gona work.
Im getting a 3 gal fule tank thats smaller but I needed all the hight I had
no room for framing inside the opening.

I think things worked out better with what I came up with + raised up my rear seat 1 1/2in. & made all the benches the same hight.

I ran 2X4s on the flat "cantalevered? " off the back seat. Ripped my 1/2 decking the width of the seat & screwed my 2X4 to the bench decking.

Then I cut a 4 in. trim out of 1/2 ply. screwed that to my 2X4s-then to the up right 1/2 ply that on the front of the alum. bench.

The bottom up right ply. sits back and under the 3/4 in. lip on the alum. bench. Any how its all locked in and nothing attached to the boat.
I will be able to remove a few screws and remove any on the decks or floor.

I think I need to cut the back lid into . With the seat installed I wont be able to go forward enough to get it out. 

Now just gota do the water sealer + carpet + wireing [-o< 

I have done vinil a few times could use some pointers
I bought 6 X 20 ft. + glue + 1/4 staples

I would be greatful for some advise 

Thanks
Ron
I took a few pics.


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## Old Bill (May 19, 2008)

Ron, you are making so much headway with all your modifications...and I still haven't got around to buying any plywood!  

I like the way you soved the the problem of the rear bench seat not being high enough. I ran into the same problem when I tried to place an ice chest behind my rear bench. My swivel seat would hit the lid of the ice chest and keep me from turning side to side. I may raise the top of my rear bench seat...if I ever get around to buying some plywood!  

Keep up the good work!!


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## Ron42261 (May 19, 2008)

I applied Thompson Water Seal , almost 1 gal. I gave her a good soakin.
Drying time is 48 hrs. so guess I cant glue any carpet till then. 
I could use some advise on doing the carpet.

Thanks Ron


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## bAcKpAiN (May 19, 2008)

Looks good! I can't wait to see the finished product!


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## Ron42261 (May 20, 2008)

Waterwings 

You know what Im wantin to do the Velcro idea might work.
I for sure want to keep all panels removable.

Ill see If I can find some velcro tape
Thansk Ron


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## Waterwings (May 20, 2008)

Go to Walmart and look in the fabric/sewing section, and they might have some in the auto section. From what I understand, 3M makes a good product, although have never used it.


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## Ron42261 (May 21, 2008)

Started on the carpet -Im usin the trowel on water proof glue. Hope it doesnt rain , can said not to get wet for 5 days. Ill get a tarp & cover it up.
I still need to trim the edges of the floor -I think Ive came up with an easy way to lap it on the sides- well see tomorrrow when I do the rest.
I bought some of the things I need for wiring & battery. 

Heres a few more pics.
Ron


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## Jim (May 22, 2008)

Looking good man! :beer:


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## Waterwings (May 22, 2008)

Nice work, Ron! 8)


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## Old Bill (May 22, 2008)

Ron, it looks better and better with each passing day!

As I look at your photos...I'm getting kinda, sorta, maybe, motivated to do some work on my Richline boat!

Good work! :lol: :lol: :lol:


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## Ron42261 (May 22, 2008)

Thanks Bill
Im trin to get it done by this weekend , might be Monday before I finish.
Ive been workin on it after work till dark all this week.
Ive got some odd & ends comin by mail may hold me up.
I had better get to work
Thanks Ron


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## evattman (May 26, 2008)

Looks really Professional Ron! Cant wait to see it totally completed!!


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## Ron42261 (May 26, 2008)

I bought 2 LED lights "amber" for inside the boat- bright little suckers.
Also 2 lighted switches but Im havin a heck of a time finding a place to mount the switches where they wont get kicked & broken.
Maybe need to make some kind of box or bracket????
Sure could use some ideas

I want the LED lights on the front side of the benches - I would like the switches beside the lights.

Oh well Ill fiug. something out 
Ill get the TM mounted , go fishin & think about it

Ron


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## bobessary (May 27, 2008)

https://tinboats.net/forum/download/file.php?id=1859&mode=view this is the link to how i did my switches i made a small 9x12x6 box and attached it near the back seat and put the aluminum angle at the bottom of it so i can wedge it in place and i can easily access the wiring if i need to just lift up the box i even later mounted my fishfinder on the same box works great and i havent had any problems with it moving at all


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## Ron42261 (May 29, 2008)

Thanks Guys

I took it out Wed. and had no problems. Only leak I had was from the center of the rubber boat plug the adjuster part. Maybe 1/4 cup in 4 hours
not enough for the bilge pump to suck.
Trolling motor worked fine Plenty of power 55 lb. trust zipped right along.
Motor started & ran fine. Only things I did not like was my seat wanst high enough " wife talked me out of mounting the 7in. peadstals I bought " and my wifes casting " worms taste nasty =P~ "

I mounted one on my seat today , Ill try it first . I think I could cut them down a little maybe shorten them 2 - 3 in. 

I still like one hunk of carpet , my battery hatch.

I will take some pics. maybe tomarrow 
I think Im goin fishin in the mornin
Ron


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## Jim (May 30, 2008)

Good to hear! =D>


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## alumacraftjoe (May 30, 2008)

=D> Nice progress! It is really coming along nicely!


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## Old Bill (May 30, 2008)

Ron, you have done a great job making your Richline a much better boat! =D> =D> 

Now, catch a ton of fish!


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