# Trailer that came with my 1448 Jon seems a little off



## daniel_loz (Jun 13, 2009)

Ok check out the attached pics and see if you can see whats going on with the trailer. The PO adding a front crossmember to the trailer to support the bunks, its rusted up bad so I assume it was raw steel. I dont really understand if this was necessary or not - the bunks were basic 2x6s that were 8 ft long. They werent carpeted or painted. The trailer is a tilt trailer, but I dont think the PO realized it. Other jon boat trailer I have seen have much shorter bunks - was this because the boat was significantly smaller or what? Most seem to have 4ft bunks that I have seen. Also should the bunks be vertically positioned like mine are or laid flat? The trailer also doesnt have anywhere to mount the trailer lights. I have the lights, but am unsure how to mount them. I was going to fab up a set of PVC guide-ons to double as a nice high mount for the trailer lights to keep them out of the water since I have heard most of the "submersible" lights dont actually submerge very well. The problem with the PVC idea is that I dont know how the lights would ground since they are the newer type that ground thru their mounting bolts.

Last question - the front upright where the winch and roller currently are seems to be missing the piece that would mount a short piece of carpeted 2x4 for the front of the boat to rest against. I can get the 2x4 no problem, but where would I aquire the mount for it that bolts to the upright?

https://i682.photobucket.com/albums/vv187/theoutfitter/Turtle%20Creek%20Mall%20Location/1448%20Jon%20Boat/100_0808.jpg
https://i682.photobucket.com/albums/vv187/theoutfitter/Turtle%20Creek%20Mall%20Location/1448%20Jon%20Boat/100_0809.jpg
https://i682.photobucket.com/albums/vv187/theoutfitter/Turtle%20Creek%20Mall%20Location/1448%20Jon%20Boat/100_0810.jpg
https://i682.photobucket.com/albums/vv187/theoutfitter/Turtle%20Creek%20Mall%20Location/1448%20Jon%20Boat/100_0811.jpg


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## ben2go (Jun 14, 2009)

Here is what I see.The tube running to the trailer tongue loos to be bent to the right slightly.That may be a trick of the camera.The other thing is the winch.It needs to be above the roller.You should have a direct line from the winch to the bow of the boat or at least as straight as you can get it.The bunks need carpet but you already knew that.


Opps I forgot,you need lights and a tag if it's required in your area.


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## daniel_loz (Jun 14, 2009)

Yes I know the trailer needs lights and a tag. I dont know how to add them to this trailer though since it seems to be missing the small wings (for lack of a better term) that would normally accomadate trailer lights. Are there bolt-on light mounts available? I was going to try and fab some high mount PVC ones that would double as guide-ons, but was unsure how people that have them are grounding the lights.

The bunks seem way too long to me - whats the average bunk length necessary with a 14 ft flat bottom jon? I have already stripped the old bunks off and removed that front crossmember that was fabbed up and bolted to the trailer. I planned to cut new bunks tomorrow to the correct length using non PT 2x4s. I also need to source whatever bracketry or mount is necessary to bolt the short bow stop bunk above the winch. Any ideas where parts like the light mounts or that bow stop bunk mount can be found? Im sort of stuck as far as making progress until I can find these parts. Im currently working to wire brush all the rust off of the axle and leafs.


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## poolie (Jun 14, 2009)

I bought my trailer/boat new so have no experience in building one, but to me the bunks seem waaaay too long. This is the trailer I own https://www.roadkingtrailers.com/RKG.htm and you can see that the bunks are only 4 foot or so.

As far as parts, I got a catalog in the mail the other day that contained lots of boat/trailer type stuff. Their website is https://www.overtons.com/ I have no experience buying from them but they sell practically everything you need to build a trailer minus the actual frame. Light kits, brackets, etc. 

-- Poolie


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## Zum (Jun 14, 2009)

I can't really tell from the pictures but maybe that trailer is alittle small for a 14' boat and he just made it like that so it "would work".
He might of left the bunks sticking out that long for support(boat transom) and attached them way up front for strength or easiest place to do it?
If your worried that they are to long and the boat will be hard to launch,you could try cutting some peices of teflon cutting board and coutersinking them to the top of the 2X6...just watch out,I hear they are mighty slick after doing that(havn't tried it myself).
I don't have submerible lights,all I do is disconnect them before putting them into the water...worked for 3 years so far,never even blew a bulb.
If I were to buy new lights,I'd be looking at LED type lights.
If your wondering about the lights on top of PVC,your probably going to have to run seperate ground wires down to your trailer.
Just looked at the trailer agian,you say it's a tilt trailer,maybe thats why the bunks are long,easier tipping(leverage)?
and maybe 2X6 to get the boat over the wheels?


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## ben2go (Jun 14, 2009)

You can do PVC goal posts with lights.You should run your grounds to trailer frame and then run a ground from frame to the plug.You could run one ground loop.Use one single wire,run it from the right light over to the left light,and up to the plug.


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## ober51 (Jun 14, 2009)

Try this site: https://shop.easternmarine.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.catalog&categoryID=211

They should have everything, just need to figure out what style you need exactly. Prices arent killer either.


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## ben2go (Jun 14, 2009)

Here's an idea mentioned earlier. https://www.widgetsailor.com/owners/greg/guides.html


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## daniel_loz (Jun 15, 2009)

Thanks for all the responses so far. I have spent today stripping the trailer down. I hit the axle and leaf packs with the wire brush cup on my power drill and got it all cleaned up pretty good. Then I hit it with Duplicolor's Truck Bed Coating. I will take some pics tomorrow in the daytime after it has sat up for over 24 hours. 

I removed those 8 foot long 2x6 bunks and the old brackets, and based on the specs of several new boat trailers I have seen on line and at the local dealers, will be replacing them with 6 foot long 2x4 bunks. I just havent decided if I want to mount them vertically or flat.

I also got the trailer wired up for lights and will be ordering a set of the PVC goalposts with a pair of oval LED taillights flush mounted into them.

I still have to finish measuring the boat to find out how wide to properly space the bunks, but Im pretty sure the trailer's outermost set of mounting holes will be used since the trailer is 42" wide and the boat is 48" wide across the bottom.

If anyone has any similar trailers to this that are setup for the size boat Im putting on it please post a pic of it so I can have a frame of reference. I know I still need to find a way to mount a front bow stop bunk above the winch - how are those attached? I cant find a bracket for that anywhere. The trailer currently has a roller there, like the type that would be used on a v-type hull.

I was looking at the jon boat trailer they stock at the local Gander Mtn. the other day and they only use one set of bunk brackets on the very back crossmember of the trailer to attach the bunks. This allows the bunks to tilt on their own? Is that the correct way to do it, or should I use to sets of bunk brackets - one of the rear crossmember, and one of the front crossmember?


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## daniel_loz (Jun 15, 2009)

Ok got another question for those of you who have setup your own flat bottom jon trailers...My boat is 14 ft long. From the upright in the front where the bow stop bunk is going to be mounted, to the rear lip of the rear crossmember is 12 ft exactly. I was planning on running 6 foot bunks since that seemed to be a nice compromise between the 4 foot bunks I saw used on trailers for smaller jons, and the 8 ft bunks that were on the trailer when I got it. For the bunks to reach the rear of the boat, they will have to hang off the back of the crossmember just a shade over 2 feet. Is that ok? Or would that be considered a bad idea?


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## ben2go (Jun 15, 2009)

I don't think it will be an issue.You could try sliding the winch post/bow stop forward to keep the bunks shorter.Just make sure you can turn the tow car without the bow hitting the back.


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## daniel_loz (Jun 15, 2009)

I dont think I can move the upright any further forward than it already is. I dont think there is really a risk of it hitting my truck since I pull the boat with an F150 supercrew 4x4 with tow package...the receiver hitch keeps the trailer far enough away to prevent any mishaps. I am going to try and get the bunks bolted up and positioned this afternoon.


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## daniel_loz (Jun 19, 2009)

Ben,

Whats your opinion on adding the 34" Fulton Swing Away tongue to my trailer? It would add the 34" of length to the front and allow me to move my winch post upright forward a good 24"-30" which would pull the boat and bunks back over the body of the trailer completely... This would also help me storing the boat with the swing away tongue.


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## ben2go (Jun 19, 2009)

The swing away tongue will be ok.I wouldn't put the winch post on the swing away tongue.Just make sure that everything is secure and lock down with the tongue.Alot of people have had bad experiences with them.I have not used them but a couple times.I had no problems but I double checked everything.


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## daniel_loz (Jun 19, 2009)

No I dont plan to put the winch post on the swing-away, but installing the swing away will allow me to move the winch post forward roughly 20"-24" inches on the existing tongue. I have been reading the mixed reviews on the swing-away in several threads on the boards, but I have used several of the factory installed versions on a few occasions and have not had a bad experience. I might worry more if I had lots of weight on the trailer, but a 14ft jon doesnt weigh that much.


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## ben2go (Jun 20, 2009)

That should work out fine.I agree.Some people have had issues with swing a ways.Most of it is due to weight,poor up keep,or just a general misunderstanding of how to safely secure the tongue.However, there where some made that was dangerous and unsafe.Fortunately they are no longer in production.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Jun 21, 2009)

With the boat sitting so far back on the trailer will you have enough tounge weight?


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## ben2go (Jun 21, 2009)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> With the boat sitting so far back on the trailer will you have enough tounge weight?




He his trying to get the boat further up on the trailer.With the current tongue, he can't slide the winch post/bow stop up any more.The trailer is a bit short for the boat, but that's not a big deal since his boat is light weight.


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## daniel_loz (Jun 23, 2009)

Ok well I got the trailer finished for the most part and have the boat back on it. The 6 foot bunks are hanging off the back 27" with about 1.5" past the actual boat so there is no chance of hooking the hull. Its a tilt trailer and right now where the tilt point is there is a hard rubber roller that the center spine of the boat bottom is sitting on. Its definitely not designed for this but I am unsure how to remedy the issue. I could try and swap out the roller for one that is grooved in the center to accommodate the center spine, but I think even that would be a lateral move at most. The boat is a flat bottom so I think I need to put some sort of bunk under there? Maybe two short lengths of 2x4 (maybe 12-18 inches) carpeted and set at the same height as the bunks? 

I still havent figured out how to mount a bow stop 2x4 for the front either - those two issues are really the only two things left to make the boat trailerable safely.

Any help ben?


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## ben2go (Jun 23, 2009)

Roller issue,could you just remove it?Most flat bottom boats aren't supported in the center unless they are really wide.If you want to you could run a small bunk in it's place.Check *THIS OUT* for some ideas on the bow stop.Clicky on the red words for the link.


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## daniel_loz (Jun 25, 2009)

Ok Ben I got the bow stop done - had to adjust it a bit to make it fit with the steel brushguard/bar thing that is mounted up front on my boat from its catfish farm days.

In that link you posted to the other thread there is a pick of what I think is a small forward bunk for supporting more towards the front of the trailer. I never saw a good picture of where it was located on the trailer though. I am having problems finding a way to mount a small bunk or pair of small bunks up on the forward part of the tongue. There are a couple of of holes I could mount a single bunk to run crossways under the front the boat, but I wasnt sure if that would work? Wouldn't the bunks have to run parallel with the splines on the bottom of the boat? I

I am open to suggestions on how to remedy the forward boat support issue - I just need to get something there to provide some support for the front of the boat. I dont think the boat is going to ride very well on the single roller under the center spline.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Jun 25, 2009)

Where the side rails and the tongue come together on my trailer I have a 24" wide carpeted board going across.


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## daniel_loz (Jun 25, 2009)

You havent had any problems with that board affecting your loading of the boat? I figured anything running across the splines of the boat vs with them would cause issues.


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## ben2go (Jun 25, 2009)

I have seen a couple trailers with cross bunks up front.Double up on the carpet so the hull won't wear through as fast.


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## daniel_loz (Jun 26, 2009)

Well I just realized another issue with the trailer - with the bunks/boat hanging off the back 24" or so the transom saver is rendered useless. It doesnt have the reach and it cant get the proper angle to support the outboard.

I am going to try to find a local source for the Swing-Away kit that comes with the extension. If I cant find it I am going to see if the marine welder who is beefing up my transom next week can weld a 36" extension on the tongue for me so that I can move the bunks and boat back up over the trailer frame. This will remedy the overhang I was already worrying about and make the transom saver useable again.

As a side note, the marine welder I found thru a friend came highly recommended. Hes an older man in his early 60s who is rumored to be the best welder for stainless steel and aluminum in the area. He is going to cut out the mess of bracing that was added to the existing transom, replace the wood with a solid 2x12, and then replace much of the transom aluminum. He is going to add some extra bracing as well. He said he likes to overbuild them and said that when he is done I could hang a 100hp motor on the back without a second thought - literally. He is going to be doing the welding on the aluminum for my back deck later on this fall as well.

I will definitely get pictures up as soon as he finishes.


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