# 1981 15 foot Yazoo. FINALLY - UPDATE!!



## bassboy1 (Feb 3, 2008)

Well, I picked this rig up for 600 bucks. It looks like it has a nice deck, but a good carpet job can hide quite a bit. I bought it with the intention of stripping it, and redoing it with my own decking. The trailer is in pretty good condition overall. It has new wheels and tires, and the steel isn't rusted much. The tongue is a bit to short, but that will be fixed pretty easy. But, it does need minor things. The bunks are held on with bungee cords, and the lights, and rollers are held on with zip ties. 
Here are a few pictures.









It has a 20 inch transom, which is good in a way, as we have a 40 horse Evinrude in the shop with a 20 inch shaft, but now I have to fab up a kicker bracket, since I will also use this rig to troll. And, when I get a 9.9 for use on limited lakes, I will have to have another bracket, or get a long shaft 9.9. 




Although it doesn't look at it, the stern deck is very large - so large that you cannot sit on the front and reach the tiller. The previous owner said the guy before him sat on his bike seat to operate a 40 tiller. :shock: 





I think I am limited on pictures, so see the next post.


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## bassboy1 (Feb 3, 2008)

Alright, so far, it really doesn't look that bad. Now, look at these hatches. 












Now, it works, but I cannot stand the unfinished look. I have always despised the hatches where there is no liner, and it just opens up to the hull. It just looks very unfinished, and besides, that is bilge area, and I don't want my stuff getting soaked in the bilge. 
Here is the battery storage area. 




Here is the livewell (more like baitwell. There are 2 this size in here, but you couldn't put a limit of dinks in either one) Is there such thing as a limit of dinks?




Also, all of the plywood is just worn out. The top deck pieces are bubbly, and waterlogged. 
Here is the bow cap, I guess we will call it.
I like these a lot. They give a factory mount for trolling motors, and give a place to mount plugs and all. If this boat didn't have one, I would ad it myself. 
I am not sure where the glove box came into play, or what the 120 volt household plugs were for.




I got it mostly stripped down today, but pictures are going to have to wait until tomorrow. Then comes planning for all my new structure. I am really hoping to get this one done with a quicker timeframe than the other boats. Hopefully, I will be doing most of the work myself, so the lack of dads time won't be an issue. Until the buyer comes to pick up the Grumman though, I won't have any cash to put into this one.


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## alumacraftjoe (Feb 4, 2008)

Nice find! Look forward to seeing your work!


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## bassboy1 (Feb 4, 2008)

Well, I finished stripping it down today, for the most part. It still needs a major cleanup, and the transom stuff needs work (I am not sure what the previous owner did - something like 6 holes with wood screws going into the aluminum to mount a transducer - not to mention the mess of bilge and livewell pumps) 

Here is the picture of the bow after I finished stripping it.




Ignore the pile of rusty fasteners there. If you remember, there was that hatch that opened up to the hull, and for some reason, every time I pulled a fastener out, it got tossed into that hatch. Now, towards the bottom of the picture, you can see a bulkhead that I had no clue existed, until pulling out the deck. Seems the boat had a short casting deck originally, that was then replaced by the previous owner. Also, that lip in the bow, and the two pieces of aluminum, that were angled with the hull to provide a level mounting surface were a dead giveaway as to the original deck in the bow. The deck mate screws holding the 2 x 8s underneath the deck were a giveaway as to the fact that it had been indeed replaced once. 

Here is a shot of the stern, with the deck removed. The stern deck extended forward to the dark spot on the carpet. That is too far forward to sit and reach the tiller, and I don't relish the idea of being way up on a pedestal to operate it. My new deck will extend to those seat pods, but no further. 





Now I get to the bottom deck. I am positive this was factory, as it used marine grade plywood, instead of pressure treated (which has NO place in an aluminum boat) and the fact that stainless fasteners were used, not a combination of trim and cabinet screws, and deck mate screws. Not to mention the fact that it was much more rotted - it had obviously been in there much longer than the rest. Also, there is some saturated flotation foam under there.





All the rest of the carpet had been taken off with the deck, plus it was stapled, and not glued, but on the side panels, it was glued. I have not seen a more durable glue in my life. It took me an hour and 15 minutes to remove the carpet from the two sides. Not to mention, it is something like 2 pieces, 7 feet by 2 feet. Notice that 2 1/2 foot long screwdriver (prybar) on the bottom? I had to use that as a chisel to dig up the glue. Seeing that it was an internal panel, I wasn't as worried about it. If it were on the hull, I don't know what I would do, as that could punch a hole in the hull, and the carpet wasn't coming off any other way. 

I have a pretty good plan of the layout when I put her back together. The rest of my week is pretty busy, but I will try to have it cleaned out by the end of this week. Then, if all goes to plan, I will try to start, if not finish, any work the trailer needs next week. 

Hopefully, in the next 3 weeks, I will start framing. We have a few hundred feet of aluminum stock in the shop here, that I won't have to repay dad for until later, so that will allow me an early start. But, I will have to wait until the buyer picks up the Grumman for me to have a bit of cash to start with everything else. I am searching for a deal on some 1/8 inch aluminum sheet, that isn't diamond plate, in the right alloy. The search is somewhat futile. Luckily though, aside from the aluminum sheet, and buying the motor from my dad, I have most of the large expenses covered - boat, trailer, trolling motor, kicker motor, batteries etc. It is just left to the millions of small expenses that ad up to be killer. But, for me, as my money comes in small amounts over time, they are easier, as I can spread the purchases out with my income.


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## Jim (Feb 4, 2008)

Awesome bassboy1! Looks like you got it all under control. 8)


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## Waterwings (Feb 4, 2008)

Looks like you got yourself a good deal! How many boats are you working on now?


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## bassboy1 (Feb 4, 2008)

Waterwings said:


> Looks like you got yourself a good deal! How many boats are you working on now?


This is the only one I am working on. The rest are just sitting there, unfinished, or unstarted even. But, this one is on my paycheck, and timeclock, so it should go faster, than the other 2, which are on my dads. Fortunately, it looks as if we may be able to start on the Alumacraft shortly after finishing this. The Lund we will get to eventually.


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## kentuckybassman (Feb 4, 2008)

What a bargain!! Wish I could find one that cheap. Looks like you'll be busy a while though. Those restoration jobs can get interesting.And expensive!


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## sccamper (Feb 5, 2008)

bassboy1 said:


> I am not sure where the glove box came into play, or what the 120 volt household plugs were for.
> [.



I have talked with several people that use 120 outlets, wired 12v; then changing the clip on fishing lights over to a extension cord plug end. You can also get the old style alum dome shop light and put a 12v rv bulb in it to light the inside of boat. That way you can plug in a light where you want it and dont have 30' of cord laying on the floor. Just a thought.

Project looks like a great start. Keep us posted.


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## mtnbasser (Feb 5, 2008)

can't wait for more pics, you have some great ideas!!!


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## bassboy1 (Feb 11, 2008)

Well, time for an update. A little lacking, but it is here. The boat is on styrofoam blocks, next to the rest of the boats we have on styrofoam blocks, and the trailer is up on sawhorses, right next to the other trailer on sawhorses. I have gotten all the parts stripped off, and will hopefully prep and paint it next week. I will probably go with a machinery gray, as that is what it originally had, and the Alumacraft trailer is that color. I am leaving out of town on Thursday, and won't be back till late Sunday night, but am out of school on Monday, so I hope to at least have it primed then. I will need new springs for it, as one is sagged, and will order them in the next day or so. Also, I am going ahead and replacing the bearings. Some people prolly woulda cleaned and repacked them, but they are kinda on the line, so I will replace them now, while it is apart. The hubs are sitting in the parts washer soaking as we speak. This weekend, while I am gone, dad will weld a new tongue on, as this one is too short for my liking, and in front of the fender, we will be adding an angled forward step, since I kept slamming my knee on the square bracket, I want the angled step. 

I went to the scrapyard last week, and came back with the material for the inside of my hatches. Found a whole pallet of this 1/16 honeycombish aluminum. The only difference from real honeycomb, is the inside is made of some plastic material. The cutoffs are about 2 feet, by 7.5 feet, and seeing as they are the honeycomb material, they are much lighter, which is good, as we buy used material by the pound. We thought we had a deal on some 1/8 inch for the decks, but upon going to pick it up, I found that it was 1/16 inch diamond plate, so that wasn't going to work at all. I have the interior layout planned out, and am working up the structure plan in my head, everytime I pass by. 

Hope to finish the trailer by next weekend (not this coming one) and then make a trip to the scrapyard that Saturday, and hopefully come back with some 1/8 sheet. Then, I will start my structure the week after, and hopefully have it done within a week and a half or so.


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## bassboy1 (Feb 23, 2008)

Well, I got most of my supplies together. Went to the scrapyard this morning, and came back with this.




It is 4 sheets of (.090) aluminum sheet that are 48 by 56 inches, and 1 sheet that is 18 inches by 7.5 feet. Ideally, I woulda gone with 1/8 inch (.125), but finding that for scrap value wasn't going to be feasible. Plus, this is 6061 T6, so it is one of the strongest aluminum grades there is, and will be the most resistant to bending and flexing. Even so, I can ad an extra brace or three, and it will still be much cheaper and easier than waiting on a deal on 1/8 inch. 
Also, I got a piece of 3/16s thickness, 1 1/2 inch angle. I wanted 1/8 inch, but the guy was able to give me this 8 foot stick of this stuff for half the price of about 6 foot of new 1/8. So, a little overkill here won't hurt, as this is going to be cut into 1 inch lengths, and used for angle brackets. 

I already had at least 15 or so pieces of this.




They are 1 x 1 aluminum square tubing, 1/16 wall, about 70 inches long. I cut these out of a section of aluminum fence that I got from the scrapyard when I was planning to do the conversion on the Cherokee that I ended up selling. The will provide most of my main structure.

Then, these are the sandwich board aluminum (which I have incorrectly called honeycomb, but these have a glue of some sort in the middle, not aluminum foil) 





Hope to finish the welding on the trailer by the end of the weekend, if the weather will cooperate, and then strip and repaint and reassemble it by the end of next week. I already have new bearings and springs ordered.


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## Jim (Feb 23, 2008)

Killer bassboy1! Glad your a resource here! =D> =D> =D>


Pm sent, I need to talk to you. 8)


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## bassboy1 (Mar 18, 2008)

Well, my time estimates were shot to heck and back. I ended up having 6 various band practices a week for a while, plus 2 various scout meetings a week, plus scout trips on consecutive weekends, so my free time has been non existent. Anyway, I got the last coat of paint on the trailer, and have pressed the new bearings into the hubs, and bolted the new springs and all on the trailer. Right now, it just lacks lights, bunks, and a winch post. Dad and I welded up the adjustable bunk brackets on Sunday, just have yet to install them, and I have some LED lights that I picked up for half price. Then, after the boat is on, I will measure and make a better winch post. The last one didn't suite my liking. 

Here is a picture of my new layout. I don't have a real good vertical shot, so I had to make do with this one. My ribs are on 16" centers, so even though the drawing isn't to scale, everything will start and end on those ribs. IE, the stern casting deck will come forward until it gets to the second rib from the transom, and my center seat box is 16 inches long.


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## Jim (Mar 18, 2008)

Sorry bassboy1  

The stupid picture resizer mod ruins the words.


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## Waterwings (Mar 18, 2008)

Sounds like a good plan!


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## bassboy1 (Mar 18, 2008)

Jim said:


> Sorry bassboy1
> 
> The stupid picture resizer mod ruins the words.


Click on the picture, and it will get bigger. Then, your cursor should turn into a magnifying glass, and click on the text. It should still be legible. Least it is on my computer.


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## bassboy1 (Apr 1, 2008)

Being that it is spring break, I finally managed to get something done. My original plan was to finish the trailer before starting the boat, but I am not allowed to use the welder on my own, and correlating dads schedule, with my schedule and the rain hasn't been practical, so I put the boat up near the shop, on a whole bunch of blocks, and started working on it. 

Today, I got all the pieces that go underneath the bottom level deck. 





On the longer pieces, I used some of the 3/16 angle, cutting one side down to 1 inch, to hold it down.





At the stern, I only put them 4 across, as there will be a casting deck above it, so it will only support the fuel tanks and such. Also, I got tired of using the angle brackets, so I cut the ends at a 45, and then was able to rivet directly into the rib. 





At the gussets, I just put 2 rivets in from the gussets to the square.


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## Waterwings (Apr 1, 2008)

> ...I cut the ends at a 45, and then was able to rivet directly into the rib.



That's good thinking there! Boat is coming along well!


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## cardrken (Apr 1, 2008)

That will be a great boat when you get done with it.


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## Jim (Apr 1, 2008)

Good job bassboy! Glad to see your working on it!


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## Captain Ahab (Apr 2, 2008)

Nice job Bassboy - you should do this as a career, I woudl hire you


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## bassboy1 (Apr 2, 2008)

esquired said:


> Nice job Bassboy - you should do this as a career, I woudl hire you


I wish. I hate my current job. :?


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## bassboy1 (Apr 2, 2008)

Got the stern bottom deck cut, and installed. Pictures a little fuzzy. It was too bright, so I held my hand to the side of the lens, to shield it, and it turned out dark and fuzzy. I need to hone my photography skills, it would seem.:roll:


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## bassboy1 (Apr 2, 2008)

Well, I got one more section of deck in today.




The front of that section looks crooked, but actually, it is straight in relation to the transom, and the sides of the hull, and the the rib is crooked. 





I also got started on the stern casting deck. The pieces are not all attached, many just have rivets loosely put in the hole, to keep things from shifting while I measure.


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## Captain Ahab (Apr 3, 2008)

Man - that is how I would do it if I had the skills and time. Tell me again why the bracing parts are black?








And everyone else, go back and read this thread from the start - what a huge difference BassBoy1 made here.

Jim, we have to add this to the front page, the photos and descriptions are great, from buying and stripping the boat to building this - awesome work


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## Jim (Apr 3, 2008)

The homepage is almost done....we are moving in a better direction (I think anyway) Stay tuned! 8)


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## bassboy1 (Apr 3, 2008)

esquired said:


> Tell me again why the bracing parts are black?


I am buying much of the aluminum used. I found a few of these fence sections at the scrapyard, and I am getting the square tubing from them. 




Each section weighs right around 35 pounds, and the current aluminum scrap price is 2 bucks a pound, so these cost about 70 bucks. This one has 15 bars, and I think they are somewhere around 75 inches in length.


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## Waterwings (Apr 3, 2008)

Nice work! 8)


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## bassboy1 (Apr 3, 2008)

I finished assembling and attaching the stern deck structure. 








In this picture, I laid the pedestals in their approximate locations, as well as the fuel tank. One base is in the center to put a pedestal in to fish from, and the other is off to the side to put the seat directly into the base, to operate the outboard from.


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## bassboy1 (Apr 4, 2008)

Well, I got the stern hatch lined. This picture didn't turn out too good, but it will do. In both photos, I layed a couple scrap pieces of aluminum to demonstrate the deck, and the front panel. 




Here, I have laid 4 battery boxes in to show how they would fit in an electric only tourney set up. This would allow for 2 24v transom mount motors, and my bow battery box will have 2 slots, so I could have a 24v on the bow as well. With the 40 horse gas motor, the fuel tank would go here, and the trolling battery as well as the starting battery will go in the bow box.


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## Jim (Apr 4, 2008)

Wow! Very nice work! 8)


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## bassboy1 (Apr 4, 2008)

Well, that isn't where I was planning on stopping today, but I am just lucky I got all the power cords in before the bottom fell out of the sky. The drain hole and the second hole where the livewell pump used to be were not keeping up with the initial rainfall. 

Any questions, comments, or critisizms? Heaven knows that I have enough of all 3 for other projects.


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## GatorTom (Apr 23, 2008)

Any updates?


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## bassboy1 (Apr 24, 2008)

GatorTom said:


> Any updates?


Is the suspense killing y'all? I may have to hold off the updates for a bit....



Naw, just kidding. Seeing that spring break is over, I have been way too busy again, so work is slow. So far, I have cut and framed in the hole in the forward bulkhead for the rod locker, and gotten most of the rod locker structure in place. Should have the rod locker structure in place later tonight. Will post pics probably tonight or tomorrow.


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## Tompatt (Apr 24, 2008)

bassboy1 said:


> GatorTom said:
> 
> 
> > Any updates?
> ...



HECK YES DUDE! IM DIEING TO SEE THE UPDATES!


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## bassboy1 (Apr 24, 2008)

Alright, I got my hole cut in the bulkhead for the rod locker. I framed it in with 1 inch square. Soon, I will cut some angles to put on the corners, which will unify all four pieces on the backside as well. Recently, we picked up another 1930s or 40s Delta bandsaw, to convert to metal cutting. Once the blade comes in to that, and we change the gearing, I will make the brackets. Beats the heck out of the old saber saw. 




Also got the next deck section in.




I am going to post pictures of these right now, but am not going to explain. Going to have to wait a few hours on that one, as I think it will be easier to post up another picture, than try to explain. 




Here is a gusset that really stiffens up the rod locker. Didn't have to cut a bit, as the cut off just happened to be the perfect width and angle, and then we had used it for a test cut last week, so the other cut was perfect too. Ignore the writing. I am not allowed to use the table saw alone, and dads and my schedule don't match up, so I write the dimensions I need, and he cuts the long rip cuts for me after work.


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## Waterwings (Apr 24, 2008)

Great metal work! The Navy could use you as a HT (Hull Technician)! All the metal (and major tools/machinery) you'dl ever want to work with 8)


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## bassboy1 (Apr 24, 2008)

I would love to be able to mess around in a nice metal shop. Dad has worked with wood since he was little, so we have an excellent wood setup, plus years of experience and tips to teach me, but metal was something new to us fairly recently. I have been teaching myself most everything I know about aluminum work, and he and I have been learning as we go with steel (he still won't let me touch his welder.  ). I am also limited quite a bit in the tooling department. Even though I grew up around lotsa woodworking and carpentry, and am fairly fluent in that, I enjoy metal working a lot more.

Anyway, here is the next update.
Those aforementioned things connect to this. 




That top bar is the one farthest to starboard in this picture. 




Now, to answer y'all's question of why is the structure above the sheet. That will be my fully accessible wiring chase. The rod locker door will be right in front of that area, and that will have a cover, held on with stainless screws, into rivnuts that I will set into the square. That way, it is fully accessible, from the batteries, to the switch panel, and to each of the items that require power. Will make things easier down the road if I have to update/repair something. 

My bow deck will extend to the back end of the longer battery box. Where those boxes are will be the approximate location of the batteries. The wiring chase will run across the top of the rod locker where that piece of copper pipe is. 





Now, back here, I will have my switch panel. As you can see, there is a nice big opening, and with the top open, one can easily reach the back to service/repair it. And, there is ample room to organize all the wiring neatly. I have rested a piece of diamond plate in place to show the size of the opening, in the second picture.









Here is my first bonehead move of the day. 
Remember that little gusset I had to strengthen the rod locker? Well, I forgot that I had to put a back on the rod locker. #-o The back will cover the back of the rod locker, and extend over in place of the gusset. Basically it will just be making the back of the locker, and the gusset one piece. I knew having that thing fit was too good to be true. #-o


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## AndrewR (May 10, 2008)

Greetings Bassboy,

I'm new to the forums here and I've been checking this topic off and on during the past few months. All I have to say is you have a freakin' sweet boat. I'd love to have something like what you've got on your hands.

Can't wait to see what the final product will end up looking like. Keep up the good work! 

andrew


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## bassboy1 (May 10, 2008)

Well thank ya Andrew.   


I should have another update with pictures some time soon. I have finished the bow deck structure, and have started making my measurements for the sheet. Just haven't yet had time to upload the pictures. Then comes carpet. Uggh. I don't particularly like carpet work.....


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## bassboy1 (Jun 18, 2008)

I have been busy for a while, then out of town on varying events for 3 weeks, so not much has happened. But, in response to Tompatt's concern down in the swap and sell section, I have looked at this thread, and realized I had indeed completed some stuff, but not updated it. Sooooo, here goes.

I have gotten the bow deck and rod locker structure complete, aside from one gusset which I have taped a paper cutout in its place. Now, I just need to get the sheet cut. I need one belt for the vertical metal bandsaw, which is being gotten tomorrow evening, so I should be rolling in high gear on Thursday. 


















Also, it is on the trailer. I still need to fabricate a winch post, and bow support, but that relies on dads schedule, since I cannot weld alone.









The motor I had for it was a 1974 Evinrude 40. I bought a tiller off of ebay, but upon disassembly, the lower unit is shot. There is a 1975 Evinrude 40 that I may go look at tomorrow night, so the tiller will still work, and some other parts will be interchangeable. At some point though, I will be upgrading to a 1980 or newer motor, probably Johnson/Evinrude, with tilt and trim.


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## Tompatt (Jun 18, 2008)

nice. =D>


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## Waterwings (Jun 18, 2008)

That's nice metal work, bassboy1 ! Trailer looks great also! 8)


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## bassboy1 (Jun 19, 2008)

Got the motor last night. He ran it in a tank for us. Still needs a few things fixed in the upper end, as he put the idle adjust in backwards. It wouldn't be practical for us to check the lower unit lube at his place, so we chanced it, and upon getting home, it came out a nice milky white. Great. That makes 2 dead lower units for '74 - '75 Evinrude 40s. But, upon disassembling the lower unit, all the gears and bearings are in perfect condition, so we just need to replace seals to stop the leak, as opposed to 450 dollars worth of bearings, shafts, and gears in the other one we had. Glad I didn't check the lube at his place, because if I did, I wouldn't have bought the motor, assuming the insides were in bad condition. 
It does need a starter, but I think I know where I can get one of those.....  I also needed to nab a couple parts off the '74 to get the tiller that I got on ebay to fit this one. Having a parts motor sure makes life a lot easier. Gonna hafta keep that in mind in the future.


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## bassboy1 (Jun 19, 2008)

Vertical metal cutting bandsaw is now operable, so I am in business. =D> 

Started cutting a few pieces to box in the side of the rod locker, and the back of the battery hatch and tackle hatch. 
Currently it is held on with clecos, and I will replace those with rivets later on.


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## seif5034 (Jun 19, 2008)

It looks like it's comming together really well. I can't wait to see it all finished up


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## Tompatt (Jun 19, 2008)

me either! :mrgreen:


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## bassboy1 (Jun 23, 2008)

Got the battery hatch, and tackle storage hatch finished. (The battery hatch isn't lined. No need for aesthetics on a utility hatch) Those tackle boxes are 3600 size, and as you can see, a good many will fit. 





Also got the rod locker lining completed.









That white rod you see is an 8 foot surf rod, and it obviously fits.









And, I got the trolling motor foot pedal hole made.


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## jkbirocz (Jun 23, 2008)

Wow this is looking great. You do some fantastic work, keep it up =D>


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## Tompatt (Jun 23, 2008)

nice. =D>


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## Waterwings (Jun 23, 2008)

That's lookin' good!!! 8)


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## bassboy1 (Jun 23, 2008)

While fishing at the coast, I realized the importance of an anchor while fishing. Bass fishing, I have never used one, so it has always remained tucked away somewhere, but since this is more than a bass boat, I realized the need for a better way to store the anchor, with easy access. I don't like the wind up anchor winches, so I decided on an anchor locker. I will put it up here, where the bow light base currently is. I will have a cleat where that hole is.





Now, I don't like the rode just tangling up in there, so I thought about a better method for storing it. I decided on having a bucket, if you will, that the rode winds around the outside of, and then the anchor fits in the middle. For a while I was thinking I was going to have to make the right size hoop out of sheet aluminum, till I saw this today. It is an old aluminum camp pot we found in grandmas basement when she moved. We have just used it to put old nails and sharp scrap in. But, the anchor fits inside just perfect.









The end of the rode will be attached to an eye on the outside of the bucket, so it can't get lost. You throw the anchor out, and the line should feed off like fishing line off a spinning reel spool. When the correct distance is let out, a quick wrap around the cleat will snug it, while the excess stays neatly coiled. When stowing, you just coil the line around, and drop the anchor in. Everything _should_ stay neater that way.


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## Waterwings (Jun 23, 2008)

Cool idea! What if you coiled the line (stacked) inside the bucket and set the anchor on top? Might save some dinged knuckles trying to wrap it around the outside. Just a thought :wink:


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## bassboy1 (Jun 23, 2008)

When on vacation in the 12 footer, I had the line coiled up in a plastic coffee can, and it kept tangling with itself, and wouldn't come out clean. I figured going around the can would let it unwind like a spinning reel, and all the times I have tested it, there were no problems.


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## brewfish (Jun 23, 2008)

Looking good bassboy, can't wait to see the final product.


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## Waterwings (Jun 23, 2008)

bassboy1 said:


> When on vacation in the 12 footer, I had the line coiled up in a plastic coffee can, and it kept tangling with itself, and wouldn't come out clean. I figured going around the can would let it unwind like a spinning reel, and all the times I have tested it, there were no problems.



I use 3/8" yellow polypro for my anchor line and understand fully about it tangling on itself. I manually raise/lower my mushroom anchor also, tying off to a cleat (in a figure 8 :wink: ) and keep the line loose on the deck sorta "coiled" on itself. One day I'll probably trip on it and deep-six myself, lol. :shock:


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## bassboy1 (Jun 23, 2008)

Did a bit more after the rain this evening. 
Here is the passenger seat box. I stole the idea of the rod ramp out of my buddies Ranger. 








The seat will ultimately hinge forward, allowing that box to be used for more storage. 

I also got one of the two bow storage hatches lined, but forgot to take a picture. 
As far as aluminum work goes, I have to line the second storage box, make the anchor locker, and then make hatch lids. After that, it is just carpeting, electrical, and putting this back together.




The parts were ordered tonight. I am replacing all the lower unit seals, as there was water in the fluid (but thankfully no internal damage) rebuilding the carbs, replacing the points and plugs, and putting a new water pump impeller in. 

Also got to get dad to weld me up a winch post.


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## Waterwings (Jun 24, 2008)

That's nice sheetmetal work. Do you have a fingerbrake or a solid-bed brake you're using to do the bending?


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## bassboy1 (Jun 24, 2008)

Not yet. Boy do I want one though. We have plans for a bending brake in the near future. Just haven't had time to fabricate it. The bent pieces are only .025, and 3003 alloy, so it was relatively easy. The bends in the rod locker were made by clamping the material between two pieces of steel, and bending it by hand and with a 20 ounce rubber mallet. I did this rod ramp in the vice with the mallet. If I had a bending brake or press break from the start of this project, I definitely would have done some things differently.


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## AndrewR (Jun 24, 2008)

This is going to look like a masterpiece when finished, I'm thinking.

Great work Bassboy! 

I find it even more impressive that you will be able to rebuild the lower unit on the motor. Three weeks ago I had to get my '86 28HP Evinrude on my "refurb" Lund serviced for a new water pump/impeller/carb cleaner and I wouldn't even know where to start! Spent $350, but if my dad or I can't or don't know how to do it, then someone's gotta! https://fishing-headquarters.com/galleries/thumbnails.php?album=43

Are you planning on having a trolling motor mounted up at the bow? Have you decided on which one you will be going with?

Not only do I like the mods you're putting into this boat, but I love the style and design of the boat itself as it would be perfect for the kind of fishing I envision - making float trips down rivers. If I get another boat for cheap that I can work on and rebuild, it's going to be similar to the style of boat you have (not mods but boat itself). Awesome overall design.


andrew


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## bassboy1 (Jun 24, 2008)

AndrewR said:


> I find it even more impressive that you will be able to rebuild the lower unit on the motor.


Once you take a couple apart, and learn the inner workings, it is fairly simple. A good shop manual is a necessity to take it apart, but the actual disassembling is what will give the best understanding as to the inner workings. We have parted out a couple old motors, and that gives one the opportunity to fully dismantle a motor. Though there are minor changes with each year and hp, most outboards operate on the same general principles, so it isn't all that hard. 



> Are you planning on having a trolling motor mounted up at the bow? Have you decided on which one you will be going with?


I have a 2001 MK 40 pound All Terrain I bought off of the BBC boards last year (their swap and sell section is the only reason I am a member). I bought it to put on my Grumman, but ended up selling that boat in favor of this one. 

At some point, I will get a pair of transom mount 70 pound thrust MKs that will take the place of the outboard when in electric only lakes. I sized the fuel hatch so that four group 29 batteries will fit back there when the fuel tank is out. 

I have an Eagle Fishmark 320 to put on the bow, and a 480 to put at the stern. At some point though, I am going to put side imaging on the stern. There are a few guys on a local board who have 797s, and will probably upgrade to 997s or 1197s in a year or so, so I might buy a used 797 from them. 

At the stern, I am putting sunk in rod holders in a trolling configuration, so this boat should be a great striper trolling rig. Also will have a smaller kicker for running trolling speeds.


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## Waterwings (Jun 24, 2008)

Good planning ahead with the layout and multiple function of the rig! We have a few guys around here who have two tm's on the stern.


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## bassboy1 (Jun 24, 2008)

Well, I want to be working on it today, but I need some aluminum, and the scrapyard is on fire _again._ Shot from the base of my driveway.






Second time they have had a fire in three months. First time, a propane tank in the equipment maintenance shed blew up, blowing a truck lift well clear of the building, destroying their newest (and biggest) semi tractor. Not to mention that the building isn't much of a building anymore. Also burned tires and about 50 pallets of crushed cardboard.

This one looked like a stack of tires or something else. Couldn't quite see. Might head over there later when the rush from this is gone and get what I need. Luckily the material sales building is on the other side of the complex, so they haven't been hit either time.


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## bassboy1 (Jul 1, 2008)

Alright, been a bit busy, so I am running a little slower, but here is what we got.

Here are the frames for a couple of my hatch lids.





Here are the finished lids.





Also, I made the side panel that the wiring chase runs behind, and the cutout for my switch board. Not sure if I am going to make the switch board out of diamond plate aluminum, or plexiglass with the back painted. 





The only aluminum work left is the anchor hatch up in the bow, but that may wait until later in the week. Carpeting probably will start tomorrow. (Well, technically today looking at the clock right now) Waterwings, are you going to be somewhere around Atlanta in the next week or so? I am not exactly looking forward to carpet work. 

I have got all the motor parts here, except for a spaghetti seal for the lower unit, which dad will probably pick up on Wednesday. Should have the lower unit back together, and the motor running this weekend. After that, it leaves electrical, and just bolting all the accessories on.


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## Waterwings (Jul 1, 2008)

Lookin' good! 8) 



> ...Waterwings, are you going to be somewhere around Atlanta in the next week or so? I am not exactly looking forward to carpet work.




lol, if i was able to I'd be glad to lend a hand  . Man that's a lot of hatch lids to carpet! 
:shock:


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## bassboy1 (Jul 1, 2008)

I didn't quite realize how much storage space this thing had until I stacked those lids up. Now, mind you, one is a battery hatch, and one is a fuel hatch, but the rest of the lids are for "stuff." The anchor will be tucked away in its hatch (lid uses no frame, so not pictured), and all the needed safety equipment/emergency tools/spare prop etc have a space made for them in the fuel hatch, so they won't be taking up storage space. Also, there is one storage hatch that will be under the passenger seat, that I don't have a pictured lid for, as it doesn't need a framed one. 

This thing rivals the storage space of my buddies 18 foot Ranger. I don't think it beats it, but it sure tries. I am fairly sure that it does beat another friends 17 foot Stratos. 

I forgot to post pics of my kicker bracket. It is a short piece off an overhead track system that the Postal Service used, then scrapped. 








Going to mount it somewhat close to where it is held in the second picture, but probably a little lower. It will allow me to run my 15 inch shaft kickers on this 20 inch transom. It has 9 inches of setback by itself, and by the time I add the aluminum/plywood "transom," per se, it will have 11 inches of setback. I needed 10 inches to be able to put most Johnnyrude outboards in the under 15 range on and in the full tilt/full turn position.


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## bassboy1 (Jul 7, 2008)

We have gotten the winch post completed.





We also made the anchor hatch out of one of the livewells I pulled out of the boat. 





The end was cut off, and framed with 1 x 1 1/2, 1/16 thick angle.


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## bassboy1 (Jul 7, 2008)

I have also been driving myself crazy putting this carpet in.
Stern hatch.









One of the bow hatches.





Rod locker.









Thought I had pictures of the bow and stern deck, but the camera has done something with them. Will post later tonight.


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## bassboy1 (Jul 9, 2008)

In an effort to save time, dad ended up reassembling this lower unit. Here is a picture from when he was almost done.





We have a carb kit, and new points to put on the motor as well, and will probably get to that on Saturday.

This carpet work is absolutely driving me insane. This is probably the only part of the project that I actually disliked doing. 
I have finished probably 98% of the carpet on the deck and in the hatches (haven't yet done the lids). Here is the bow deck. I am not the best photographer, so bear with me.












Jigged this one so the crease where there were multiple bends for the lid rest would dry tight and crisp. 





Here is the middle seat box and back end of rod locker. The part without carpet is where the hinge goes, not a bad cut.  Also, I bet you cannot point out the seam in between the seat box and rod locker. The lines you see are some stray sharpie lines (which will hopefully wear away soon). The seam is actually off to the side of these.





Here is the stern deck. The two exposed ribs on the side of the hull were painted black, and carpeted around. That way, I have an exposed mounting surface to put accessories, or tie down loops, and not have carpet in the way. 





Will work on hatch lids later tonight, and possibly into tomorrow as well.


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## phased (Jul 9, 2008)

She's coming together now. Great job. Now that you are an experienced boat carpeteer will you come and help me with mine? I, like you, dread it with a passion. All jokes aside that is going to be a terrific boat.


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## FishingBuds (Jul 9, 2008)

serious looking job there :wink:


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## bassboy1 (Jul 9, 2008)

> Now that you are an experienced boat carpeteer will you come and help me with mine?


I was hoping Waterwings would come help with mine...... 

Notice I am still doing it myself #-o .


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## Tompatt (Jul 9, 2008)

bassboy1 said:


> In an effort to save time, dad ended up reassembling this lower unit. Here is a picture from when he was almost done.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




hey bassboy.....its pretty cool setup in the last pic..... but i think u need a bigger fan to propell u through the water... xD :mrgreen: .....just messin with ya.. NICE. =D>


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## bassboy1 (Jul 9, 2008)

> but i think u need a bigger fan to propell u through the water


Longer extension cord too...... :lol:


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## Tompatt (Jul 9, 2008)

bassboy1 said:


> > but i think u need a bigger fan to propell u through the water
> 
> 
> Longer extension cord too...... :lol:




ya maybe... and some wings just like that video jim posted of the flying boat!!! talk about fly fishing.  :lol:    :shock: 8) :mrgreen: =D> =P~ :wink: :mrgreen:


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## Waterwings (Jul 10, 2008)

bassboy1 said:


> > Now that you are an experienced boat carpeteer will you come and help me with mine?
> 
> 
> I was hoping Waterwings would come help with mine......
> ...



Carpet job looks great! The rolling pin does help doesn't it :wink:


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## Tyler_W (Jul 10, 2008)

How exactly did you do the side walls with your carpet? i'm trying to figure out how to do mine but can't come up with anything cause i'm trying to keep away from having to buy more plywood.


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## bassboy1 (Jul 10, 2008)

Waterwings said:


> bassboy1 said:
> 
> 
> > > Now that you are an experienced boat carpeteer will you come and help me with mine?
> ...


Actually it hasn't been used.  Dad found it under a bench, and pulled it out for me, but that is as far as it got. Instead, I have been using this piece of steel billet. 




It is about 5 inches wide, and weighs 21 pounds, so it fits inside hatches, and between lid openings on the deck. On the vertical surfaces, I am just pressing by hand.


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## Waterwings (Jul 10, 2008)

quote]Actually it hasn't been used.  Dad found it under a bench, and pulled it out for me, but that is as far as it got. Instead, I have been using this piece of steel billet. 




It is about 5 inches wide, and weighs 21 pounds, so it fits inside hatches, and between lid openings on the deck. On the vertical surfaces, I am just pressing by hand.[/quote]

Well that'll certainly do the trick 8) . Don't drop that sucker on your fingers! :shock:


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## bassboy1 (Jul 10, 2008)

Tyler_W said:


> How exactly did you do the side walls with your carpet? i'm trying to figure out how to do mine but can't come up with anything cause i'm trying to keep away from having to buy more plywood.


Originally, my boat had these running down the sides.





They attached to the hull, and were bent outward to cover the ribs. As you can see, they were pretty bent, and had many holes. Seeing as I didn't have many places with exposed hull left, I was going to either try to find two good, straight sections, or just make some more out of .025 aluminum. But, I realized that in these two places, especially behind the seat, I would want to be able to strap down coolers, portable bait wells etc. So, I figured I need to leave the ribs open. Originally, I was going to run my carpet over the ribs, but then I realized that I wouldn't want to have to deal with carpet when mounting accessories to the ribs, so I sprayed them a gloss black, and cut my carpet around them. I measured so my carpet would run across the deck, and up the side of the hull, not the rib. Then, I measured, and cut out the slot for the rib.


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## bassboy1 (Jul 14, 2008)

Just realized I hadn't yet posted these patch pictures. 
Between the factory thru hulls, and the previous owners testing out the new cordless drill, this thing (transom) is like swiss cheese. Here is a shot where we patched a thru hull up near the bow.





Cut out a piece of .090 aluminum with a hole saw in the drill press, sealed it with 3M 5200, and riveted it with 3/16 rivets. 

Port side of transom





Starboard side





I don't know if you can see, but we had to put rivets all over the transom. Also, this thing has had at least 3 motors before mine, so I had something like 10 holes to fill with grey silicone up around the current engine mount. Of course, with all the holes that existed, I still had to drill new ones for the transducer. Go figure.


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## bassboy1 (Jul 14, 2008)

Also got my hatch lids carpeted and installed. The deck carpet and the carpet inside the hatches is acceptable. Not exceptional, but I can live with it. The lids however, are NOT acceptable. At some point in the near future, they will be remade, with a different method, to where they fit the boat much better. But, seeing as I can fish with bad lids, as they are structurally sound, just not cosmetically up to my approval, I will wait a bit on replacing them. 

As you can see, I also cut my covers for the wiring chase. Been installing rivnuts, but broke the tool (have already broken two of our three pop riveters - I am about sick of breaking rivet installers). They will probably be carpeted when I redo the lids, as I am beyond burned out with carpet work here (again, they are functional at this point, so I am happy)






























As you can see in the stern deck pictures, the motor is still somewhat in pieces.
The lower unit has been rebuilt, the carbs rebuilt, and has new points, plugs, and condensers, but we are still having trouble with the link and sync. Basically we are having trouble adjusting the carb and ignition synchronization. We don't have a factory manual for this motor, and anybody I have seen on the internet says that it is impossible to do a link and sync with the SELOC or Clymer multi motor manuals. I tend to agree with them.


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## bAcKpAiN (Jul 14, 2008)

Really looking good there!


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## Jim (Jul 14, 2008)

Excellent progress :beer:


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## Victor Coar (Jul 14, 2008)

This is really amazing work!! I can't touch this level of craftsmanship - do you think you could tally up the cost for a project of this level? I understand If you can't...


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## bassboy1 (Jul 14, 2008)

I will get a close tally, +/- a couple hundred. 

Here is where I stand at the current.

I wanted my trolling motor to be somewhat easily removable. Didn't mind having to use a socket to remove it, but didn't want to have to pull the anchor hatch to reach nuts to remove it. So, I made this out of 1/4 thick aluminum plate. I drilled and tapped 4 holes for 5/16 bolts in the corners. That way, to take off/install the TM, I just have to unthread the bolts from the top. Obviously, that would work dandy until you take it off, and it falls into the bottom of the bow. So, I tapped holes for two 1/4 inch bolts in the center. Those will keep the plate secure when the trolling motor isn't mounted.





Now, that is great, but I had another problem to deal with. The majority of the weight on these motors is at the head of the unit. When the previous owner had one mounted to the bow, the unsupported head weight when stowed pryed back on the bow cover, and started to crack the weld. 




Going to get that rewelded soon. But, it will happen again if I don't put some sort of support in, so I bent a piece of diamond plate to make a foot. 





















That trolling motor is an '01 Minn Kota 40 pound thrust All Terrain that I got on the BBC swap and sell board for 150 to my door last fall. 

Also mounted the bow sonar. It is an Eagle fishmark 320 I bought off the bassresource.com swap and sell last year and used on my Grumman. I think I got it for 90 shipped. I originally wanted it on the starboard side, but figured people coming over the bow when this thing is beached will probably come over on the starboard side, as the trolling motor is on the port side, so it is probably safer over there.









Got my console unit mounted too. It is an Eagle fishmark 480 that I got off the BBC swap and sell last fall for 125 shipped, and it included the RAM mount.


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## bassboy1 (Jul 14, 2008)

As far as the pricing goes,
boat/trailer - 600
motor - 325 plus about 175 in parts (ran when I got it, so the parts are just tune up parts and LU rebuild parts)
trolling motor - 150 shipped. Bought from BBC swap and sell.
bow sonar - 90 shipped. Bought from bassresource swap and sell
console sonar and RAM - 125 shipped. Bought from BBC.
Aluminum - estimate 585 - 600 at surplus price from local scrapyard. (Some is new that has been scrapped)
Trailer parts and paint - estimate 200. Previous owner replaced wheels, tires, jack and coupler before I bought it. I just had to paint, replace leaf springs, replace lights with LEDs, replace bunks, lengthen tongue and make winch post.
Carpet and glue - I think about 125. Bought 20 linear feet, and when I finish, I should have very little left. Used 2 gallons of glue, and I may need another to get the last little bit finished.
Seats, pedestals, bases, and such from Cabelas - 240. 
Rivets - I estimate that I used around 25 boxes. They were varying sizes, and came from Home Depot, or Northern tool. I think they averaged 4 bucks a box, so call it 100 bucks. Definitely could have saved a bit there if I had bought in bulk, or bought all from Northern (significantly cheaper than HD for future reference). 
Wiring. Came to about 230 from Genuinedealz down in Brunswick Ga. It is all top of the line tinned marine grade, and I used large sizes (probably larger than needed) because I had long runs. 
My trolling battery is an Interstate group 27 that dad got me through his work for 70. Not sure if he gets a discounted rate or not, but I am satisfied with this brand. Used it for a year on my Grumman. The starting battery is an old AAA that came out of a car we inherited and parted out. Will probably have to replace it soon, so there is another 60 for an Interstate. 
The hinges and rivnuts came from Aircraft Spruce and set me back about 40 or so bucks.
I am estimating that I spent probably 100 bucks on stainless hardware to replace non stainless stuff in the boat, and to mount my stuff. 
The kicker, my Evinrude 4 horse Deluxe (deluxe model has shifter, twist tiller, and other stuff found on a 9.9) actually has about -225 in it (I had 600 in my Grumman, trailer, and this motor then sold the Grumman and trailer for 825) but I am not taking that off the project cost, just going to call it free. 
I am going to say another 175 or so in hardware that I have added, or will add - cleats, hatch pulls, nav light bases, etc etc. 

That totals to about 3400. I had a running total in my head that was about 3600, so I musta missed about 200 worth of stuff. 

I do, however, have a couple ideas for saving a bit on my next one. Obviously the rivets are one. Also, I have a few methods for using less aluminum on the next one too. Seeing as I didn't want support pieces interfering with the insides of my hatches, I had covering on the outside and had them lined. My next boat will probably use more structurally formed sheet to in essence put my structure, outside covering and inside covering in with one fail swoop.


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## asinz (Jul 15, 2008)

Great job, can't wait to see it on the water.


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## bassboy1 (Jul 15, 2008)

Heck, asinz, you are even closer to Allatoona than I am. You can come fish from it if ya want.


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## Waterwings (Jul 15, 2008)

Lookin' good! 8)


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## AndrewR (Jul 15, 2008)

That's a fine looking craft. You've got lots to be proud of for sure.

So when's the expected maiden voyage? 8)


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## bassboy1 (Jul 16, 2008)

> So when's the expected maiden voyage?


In just over an hour. 

I have gotten my trolling motor, and main motor wired, which is all we need for a test (trolling motor is an easier emergency paddle, and paddle is to hopefully stay in rod locker). The problem we were having was not with the link and sync like originally thought. Instead, it was a bad fuel pump. We hooked up a fuel pressure gauge, and found that it wasn't sucking at all. When we were cleaning the carb, we noticed the fuel pump was rusty, and since we had a parts motor with a better looking pump, we used that instead. Well, there was something bad with it, but upon disassembly, we couldn't find any damage. The same pump also fits the '79 55 horse Johnson we have waiting to go on the Lund, so we snatched it off. Well, it leaked, so we started piecing bits of the three pumps together, and finally made a working pump. I couldn't tell you what pieces came from what pump though....

We are still having some fine tuning problems, 'specially at idle, but we are still going with the lake test. Will take the camera, and have some pictures to post later.


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## Nickk (Jul 16, 2008)

great job! The support and recessed pedal area are excellent.


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## bassboy1 (Jul 16, 2008)

Put her in the water for a bit. Motor started right up, and never missed a beat. Seems we finally have it tuned in alright. It pushes us pretty well too. We made a 3+ mile run in 7 minutes (took us about 50 in the Grumman) so I am estimating our speed to be about 28 - 30 mph. I don't have a clue whether or not I have the correct prop, and this is a little dinged, so I may be able to nab a couple more miles yet. Here are a couple pictures.

The spillover dam from lake Acworth (some of y'all may have heard me talk about it - known for the large bigmouths, but I can't seem to find them), that feeds into the bottom end of this lake. 





Dad running it at WOT.





Not sure why these next few turned out so bad. It wasn't dark.
Me coming out of the no wake zone. This thing doesn't have the greatest hole shot.





Heading in at WOT, or close to.





The problems:
Apparently, when patching transducer holes (this thing has had a million transducers it seems) I missed 2. I noticed water in the bilge, and then saw it streaming in from the transom. No problem at speed, but at rest it puddled in pretty quick. Just from the 2 minutes of idling around the no wake zone before trailering, I accumulated about 5 gallons. 

The passenger seat needs to be on a swivel. The layout of this makes sitting angled inward much easier.

The fuel hatch needs to be 2 piece. I had designed it where you have to remove the stern seat to open the hatch, as it only needs to be opened when filling up at the gas station, and that seat would be off the boat when trailering anyway. Problem was, you can't check the fuel level with the seat present. A two piece lid will allow checking the fuel and bilge without removing seat. 

Motor has major torque steer issues. The slightly larger, or newer motors have an adjustable tab on the bottom of the cav. plate. This one has it molded in, so I can't adjust it. Going to add a shim to one side and that should solve the problem. 

Cover rattles. Knew that would be a problem, as it is missing much of its weather stripping. Real annoying. 

Wiring chase cover rattles. Instead of just carpeting the top, I am going to carpet all the way around.

Not having lid pulls installed yet has been a bigger pain than I thought it would. Need to remember to get those ordered. 

Trolling motor pedal well is a great idea, but it is too far from the butt seat. Without one, I would space it that far from the seat, but because it is sunk in, the need for the extra distance is gone. 

Aside from those, it worked real well. It pushes me at a reasonable clip to fish these larger lakes easier, and is reasonably stable. Flat bottom does have a somewhat rough ride, but that is just the nature of the beast. 

I didn't get too much chance to walk around on it, but it is definitely stable enough to move around on, and fish from.

When I was alone, the side to side trim was absolutely perfect, both at rest, and in motion. But, with another person in the passenger seat, it leans to the left. I think I am going to mount the kicker on the starboard side, as opposed to the original plan of the port one, and then do a little rearranging to make the weight come out more even with 2 people. I think if I turn my batteries 90 degrees, it will get the heavier one to the left of center, and I think the fuel tank can slide to port to counter the kicker when I am alone as well.


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## Tyler_W (Jul 16, 2008)

What size motor is that you put on there? And how wide is your boat? Our boats are almost the same


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## bassboy1 (Jul 16, 2008)

The motor I have on there right now is a 1975 Evinrude 40. The boat is about 15' 7" long, with a 42 inch bottom. The '75 motor is crankshaft rated, not propshaft rated like post 1985 motors are, so it is really the equivalent of a modern 35. 

A modern 40 weighs in at about 190 pounds, whereas this one weighs just 140. The new motors are also on a 52 cubic inch block, where as the 35 cube block, (which is on the soon to be E-tec 30s) should be able to put out 40 hp, which would produce a nice light, but strong 40 horse motor. One side of me wants to start saving towards one of those, as it would be such a nice motor on this boat, but the other doesn't as I am capable of doing a complete rebuild of these older ones if I want, but all the electronics on the newer ones would require taking to a shop for any sort of maintenance. So, at this point, I am somewhat torn between the two decisions. Of course, I have no money at this point, so I probably will have plenty of time to ponder the two......


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## Zum (Jul 17, 2008)

Glad to hear the boat and motor worked fine and the fixes should be easy.Could you do me a favor and take a picture of the inner stern section where the persons legs go(surrounding area) when motoring;thinking of a stern platform for my boat and with a tiller handle don't want to be reaching to far for the motor.


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## madfisherman (Dec 14, 2010)

Hey nice work on all your projects. I just got a 14ft Lowe and I would like to know if you would be interested in taking on this project. I live in the Atlanta area as well and my email is [email protected]


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