# Landau 1470 Rebuild: Aluminum Frame Casting Deck & Floor



## DocBrown (Apr 19, 2017)

Hi folks. This is my first post but I've been lurking and using the forum as a reference for quite a while. I'm in the process of rebuilding my Landau 1470 Jon boat. My dad originally did a "bass boat conversion" on the boat in the 80's and I redid the boat in early 2000's w my brothers. It spent a lot of time out in the weather and was in need of attention if I'm going to keep fishing out of it with my kids. 

The plan is extend the front deck and redo all the framework in aluminum to reduce weight vs previous builds which used wood framework. The most recent build w/ my brothers had two large pedestal seat bases, one on the main lower floor, another on a step up toward the front, and the original short front deck. I'm installing recessed 3/4 pin seat bases, 2 in main floor and one on the new deck. I'm also moving the battery to the front under the deck along with adding a lot of under deck storage with flush hatches. 

I'll add more posts with details and progress pics up to this point, but for now check out my YouTube channel to see my intro video. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fJ73jrd75N4

I'll be posting more update videos to cover project progress as I go.


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## DocBrown (Apr 19, 2017)

Here's a recent pic of the boat with my fishing buddy showing off a baitfish he found at the ramp. 

Details of the boat: trolling motor is a Minn Kota 40AT, outboard is '87 25hp evinrude w 35hp intake and carb. The new front deck will go to about middle of where front seat post was previously. 


Patch panel over bad spot in the transom.




Initial tear down. 




My brothers and I used a lot of wood during that early 2000's rebuild and it was all trashed. 




This whole project really started with rebuilding the transom and supports


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## DocBrown (Apr 19, 2017)

I decided to build my own recessed pedal tray after looking at pricing online. I cut each panel out and welded it all up. 









I'll be adding a flange around it for easy install and removal if needed. This is about where it will go on the new deck. 





The lid on the livewell needed some attention around the hinge.


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## DocBrown (Apr 19, 2017)

Here's the hull after vacuuming and powerwashing it. It was crazy the years of built up dirt and gunk that came out of the ribs. 





Before I did anything I worked up a sketch to scale with my layout and then also tried it out by mocking it up in the driveway. I also used the sketch to estimate material needed and purchased from a local supply in 24' pieces. Much more cost effective than Home Depot or lowes (close to 50% less per foot)









The next thing I did was flip it over and repair any suspected leak areas. This is another lesson area regarding galvanic corrosion and why to not use pressure treated wood and mild steel fasteners. I was able to push a pick through some of the corroded spots. Then I'd drill it out larger to get to clean base metal, weld it up, grind & smooth it out. 









This one was under a rib and no matter how much I cleaned it would just keep blowing out from corruptions contamination. So it got a patch.


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## onthewater102 (Apr 19, 2017)

Bookmarking this for others benefit to share as an example of why you NEVER use pressure treated wood. 

That said you're doing beautiful work - given your aluminum welding abilities I hope you're doing this over with all aluminum framing so your fishing buddy doesn't have to rebuild this boat when it makes its way to his hands.


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## DocBrown (Apr 19, 2017)

onthewater102 said:


> Bookmarking this for others benefit to share as an example of why you NEVER use pressure treated wood.
> 
> That said you're doing beautiful work - given your aluminum welding abilities I hope you're doing this over with all aluminum framing so your fishing buddy doesn't have to rebuild this boat when it makes its way to his hands.



Yeah unfortunately some lessons are learned the hard way...plus the internet was in its early days when we did the rebuild and there just weren't a lot of good references. 

You're right on track, I am building all the framework out of aluminum for that exact reason. I'm also reducing weight while increasing hull ridigity so I'm hoping it will pick up some speed and ride a little smoother. I've weighed everything that came out and everything that's going in and I'm down 30lbs from before.


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## DocBrown (Apr 19, 2017)

After I finished patching the hull I began setting up the framework for the front deck. I'm using thick wall (11 gauge) 1" aluminum square for the majority of the top of framework and 16 gauge for the vertical support pieces. There are three main spans that will be welded to the sides of the boat acting as crossmembers for the remaining deck surface. 









I'm using stainless 1/4-20 threaded rivnut inserts for the seat mounts since I wouldn't have access underneath for a through-bolt and I did not want to use sheet metal screws in these locations. I originally purchased aluminum inserts and tried one out with the mount on a scrap piece with good results. But after thinking it over I chose stainless inserts due to the softer properties of aluminum vs stainless steel and this being a more critical fastener joint that I didn't want the bolt tension to relax due to thread deformation. 













I'll also be using these rivnuts up front to mount the trolling motor.


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## DocBrown (Apr 19, 2017)

I originally planned to weld in the rear floor stringers to the ribs in the floor. But after seeing the corrosion and the challenge I had with patching the bad spots in the bottom I decided to take a different route and save myself some headache. I cut and welded 1" angle tabs to each one and then riveted to the floor ribs after installing the foam board. 





There will be an additional layer of foam sheet running between the stringers. 





I did similar tab work on the middle crossmember which will be riveted to the front floor rib. The second and first cross member supports have the tabs that I will drill through the hull and secure with solid rivets.





Here's a general layout. There is framework for the trolling motor that will get threaded inserts just like the seat mounts.





I finished up the front framework as much as possible without welding it into the boat so I'd have more access to weld it out once it was ready.


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## Spedly (Apr 19, 2017)

Nice work. I like how you raised the floor up off of the ribs.


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## onthewater102 (Apr 19, 2017)

Those rivnuts are fantastic. I had originally considered a sort of removable storage setup for the front of my boat where I could pull a portion out and have more floor space for the family - sort of an on demand deck extension. That could be easily done if the deck framing were able to be bolted in...


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## Zum (Apr 19, 2017)

Subscribed...nice work, enjoyed the video as well. There's a couple things I'd like to do to mine but I know the little miller 130 isn't the tool for the job.

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## DocBrown (Apr 19, 2017)

Thanks for the kind words. I did quite a bit of measuring and planning before I did any actual work. Haha. 

The main reason for raising the rear floor was for clearance of the recessed seat posts. With the square tube and 1/2" ply it works out just right. 

Check out my update video with details of the deck framing. 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dCx2N8e9qo4&sns=em

I've already started cutting and laying out the decking so I'll get some pics and video up in the next week or so.


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## TDobb (Apr 21, 2017)

Very nice work. The welded assemblies look awesome. Super clean framing and installation. Well done so far and can't wait to see the finished product.


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## DocBrown (Apr 21, 2017)

Framework is all done and completely welded in. All of the foam board is cut and installed in the rear floor now. I'm using two pieces of plywood for the rear floor with the strength axis perpendicular to the supports. This allows me to use thin sheet (15/32) and will give great stiffness with minimal weight. 





Fitting the main front deck sheet. 





I had to crawl under and trace hatch locations. 





Deck with hatches cut out and recessed tray dropped in place. 





With middle hatches dropped in. Still need to cut the side hatches. 





Next is trolling motor mount, trimming and fitting the hatches, and getting all the holes drilled in the deck.


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## fool4fish1226 (Apr 22, 2017)

Very nice work


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## Ictalurus (Apr 22, 2017)

Great job doc!!!

My previous rig was the landau 1470 and it was a great boat. Like yours, both bench seats were removed in my boat. I didn't secure the sides well enough the first go round so I had some flex when I'd put my 20 hp on there. The second rebuild was tied together much better and I never noticed any flex. Link is below if you want to see another 1470.

Good luck on your build.


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## DocBrown (Apr 23, 2017)

Ictalurus said:


> Great job doc!!!
> 
> My previous rig was the landau 1470 and it was a great boat. Like yours, both bench seats were removed in my boat. I didn't secure the sides well enough the first go round so I had some flex when I'd put my 20 hp on there. The second rebuild was tied together much better and I never noticed any flex. Link is below if you want to see another 1470.
> 
> Good luck on your build.



Thanks man! Glad you chimed in here, your builds was one of a few landau posts I found through search way back even before I was a member (I think I have it bookmarked...haha). My layout was very similar to yours with a stepped front deck. I found that it was a pain to fish because when flipping I was always having to get over the sides of the boat. I could stand on the front deck, but then I couldn't run the trolling motor because the pedal was down on the lower deck...so that's what pushed me to extend the front deck. 

Considering how rotten all the wood was in this thing I will have much less flex than before, especially with the extended deck welded into the hull.


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## DocBrown (Apr 26, 2017)

Both rear floor sheets have been cut to fit with holes for seat bases. I'm marking all the areas I will predrill oversize so they won't lift when I shoot in ss self tapping screws. 





All the front deck and hatches are also cut out and trimmed to fit carpet and hinges. Also cut holes for 6.5" speakers. I've got a kenwood marine Bluetooth amp to run those guys when tunes are needed. 









I have stainless piano hinge that I will mark and predrill holes for the hatches next.


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## onthewater102 (Apr 26, 2017)

Such beautiful craftsmanship - can't wait to see the end result.


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## Johnny (Apr 27, 2017)

I agree with OTW - *very nice craftsmanship !!!*

are you going to treat the plywood in any way ?
or just lay the carpet on raw wood.


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## DocBrown (Apr 27, 2017)

onthewater102 said:


> Such beautiful craftsmanship - can't wait to see the end result.





Johnny said:


> I agree with OTW - *very nice craftsmanship !!!*
> 
> are you going to treat the plywood in any way ?
> or just lay the carpet on raw wood.



Thanks guys. I like to make sure I get things as right as possible the first time. 

I'm planning to use Kilz primer/sealer on the plywood after I get all holes drilled in it before applying carpet.


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## Johnny (Apr 27, 2017)

if you use oil base KILZ - dilute the first coat way down 
for adequate penetration of the wood.......
this stuff dries really fast and will seal the surface but down deep where it counts.
my experienced rule of thumb is first coat - 50/50 primer/mineral spirits and the
second coat 25% then forward to a sealing paint of your choice.
I would not just use Kilz alone. then proceed to the covering such
as vinyl or carpet. Kilz must be top coated for maximum performance.

you have put way way too much of your time and effort into this beautiful project
to cut corners now - where it matters the most........ time consuming, I know.
But like Dale says: do it right - do it once.

jus my Dos Centavos




.


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## DocBrown (Apr 27, 2017)

Johnny thanks for the tip. What is the reason you wouldn't recommend using Kilz alone? Glue adhesion, durability, sealing,...? Is there something better that would do what I need in a single application?

The original floor was over 10 years old (all of it stored outside, a large portion uncovered) and had made it this far with no treatment, so I was thinking just the primer sealer would be a huge improvement. 

I appreciate the help, I have only minor experience with wood staining and sealing with none of it for marine usage.


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## Johnny (Apr 27, 2017)

It has taken me over 50 years to learn all these tips and tricks
through my own trial and error or watching other tradesmen
work their magic..... shortcuts can come back to bite you later.

yes, bare plywood or one coat of primed plywood will last a very long time
IF kept in a garage all its life . . . outside covered traps moisture and will
slowly degrade any wood you may have. (over time).
I use quite a bit of Kilz for different projects so I have become very familiar
with the product...... it dries fast and does not really seep into the wood fibers
on plywood. On tight grained lumber, such as pine, spruce or douglas fir, 
the surface primer is all that is needed for a good weather-proof finish. 

woodworking is my forte' - preservation and finishing is my passion.
all I can do is share the information with you. It is totally
up to you as how to proceed in your project.

again - awesome craftsmanship !!! job well done.



This is a 4'x6' sandblasted wood sign made of Florida Cypress I made 20 years ago.
it was properly primed with oil base primer with the 50%, 25% and 10% formula.
It has been cleaned and repainted a few times over the years but it is still sound
with no rot. The secret to a successful exterior project is equal coats of coatings
on all edges, front and back.








.


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## DocBrown (Apr 27, 2017)

Johnny said:


> woodworking is my forte' - preservation and finishing is my passion.
> all I can do is share the information with you. It is totally
> up to you as how to proceed in your project.


I'm not one to ignore sage advice, it's how I've gained a lot of my knowledge, so I'll definitely try out your application method. 

What topcoat would you recommend?


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## Johnny (Apr 27, 2017)

stay within the same family types.: oil primer with oil topcoat paints.
exception:  if you do the 50%/25%/10% primer formula, (or even 25% then 10%)
I would be comfortable with a few coats of exterior grade latex paint _AFTER_
the primer has fully dried and cured within the wood.
In my sign shop, it often took more than a week just to prepare
one plywood sign panel for outside use.
since you are going to carpet it anyway, color is not an issue.
go visit a Sherwin Williams, Benjamin Moore or similar paint store
and try to snag a gallon of mis-matched exterior grade paint.

while you are working on your project, get a 2'x2' piece of plywood and
try the diluted primer formula and see how you like it before going whole hog on it.


Read, Understand and Follow the instructions on the label of the products you use.

looking forward to see the rest of your journey !!





.


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## DocBrown (May 4, 2017)

Some progress from over the weekend. 

Got the switch panel & stereo control mounted in the deck face. Also have the fuse panel and amp mounted to the backside in the battery hatch. If you look close you'll see all the hinges are mounted as well. I used a 1-1/16" wide SS hinge w a 3/32 pin. It will be just right with the carpet I am using. 









I also modified the trolling motor mount and installed the rivnuts in the frame. 





Here's the layout. 









I'm in the process now of painting all the wood.


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## The10Man (May 4, 2017)

I'm liking this build. Looking forward to the seeing the finished product. 


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## DocBrown (May 21, 2017)

Been busy, but haven't updated progress in a bit.

Decking all painted w/ Rustoleum Professional Smoke Gray Gloss. 





New bunks for trailer.





Front and rear of deck face.








Everything carpeted and laid out. I know a lot of guys use the glue in a bucket, but I used 3M Super 90 contact adhesive spray. Its what I used on the previous build and it works fantastic. I used a pneumatic stapler to secure the wrapped edges on the backside with Arrow 1/4" Stainless Staples.





Here's how the deck is laid out.





I spent the day yesterday prepping & painting the hull with Duralux Aluminum Boat Green. I'll update with more pics later today or tomorrow.


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## DocBrown (May 21, 2017)

Here's a progress update video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8_dyazmuQk&feature=youtu.be


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## DocBrown (May 25, 2017)

Painted the hull this past weekend with Duralux aluminum boat green thinned with acetone and sprayed through a cup style gun. Very happy with the results! I laid it on heavier than most paints and it smoothed out so nice and dried super fast. Coverage was great and as long as it's as durable as most reviews I've read it should be worth the price. 

Before




After













Back on the trailer! 8)


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## The10Man (May 25, 2017)

Nice work! That looks like a brand new boat. 


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## DocBrown (May 25, 2017)

The10Man said:


> Nice work! That looks like a brand new boat.


Thanks man! I updated the thread title because when I first started out I was just going to do the deck and floor. It's turned into a full blown restomod!

I've been working on wiring and I hope to have it all finished up by end of this weekend.


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## DocBrown (May 30, 2017)

Finished up all the wiring, filled the front deck with foam board, and installed all the decking. 

Fuse panel, switches, amp, aerator timer




Front deck w coroplast sheet lining the compartments








I marked all the deck pieces with tape over the predrilled screw holes. 

Front deck




Deck in place and shooting screws




All buttoned up w/ everything installed. 







Rear floors in place




Getting real close. Installed new decals and hung the outboard on it this afternoon. Should be able to get it out this weekend!


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## Johnny (May 31, 2017)

that thing is a TANK !!! Very nice work !!


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## DocBrown (Jun 1, 2017)

Johnny said:


> that thing is a TANK !!! Very nice work !!



Thanks Johnny. Even with all the structure it still came out 30+ lbs lighter based on final weights of everything that went in the boat vs what I pulled out. I should be able to get out on it this weekend so I will see if moving the battery forward really hurts holeshot or the ride.


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## DocBrown (Jun 10, 2017)

Here are the decals from Vinyl Approach (https://www.vinylapproach.com). I sent in a pic of the original and he made a perfect recreation from the picture. Very happy with the results.







Decals on the boat.





I also rewired the starter cables on the outboard. The originals were 8 gauge and causing a slow start. Replaced them with 4 gauge wire and connected to the stud terminals on the transom.









And FINALLY, out on the water last Sunday.





Had an awesome day. The boat jumped up on plane, ran flat and smooth with no porpoising and topped out at 29 mph. It was so much nicer to fish out of with the extra storage, large fishing deck, & recessed troll tray.

Check out my youtube video for final assembly, fishing trip clips, & a walk around of the boat.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eHFmlaoosqI


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## The10Man (Jun 10, 2017)

Those decals turned out perfect!

Your build is awesome! I like that you painted the entire boat inside and out. A lot of builds it seems that guys don't paint their sub structure under the decks and have the raw, shiny aluminum below the hatches. Having the support structure the same color of the rest of the boat makes it look seamless and original. 

Where did you buy all of your aluminum from? I live in Central Florida as well and have a 1454 Landau. It's not as wide as yours but it's a great boat. Some time in the future I might cut out the middle seat and build mine In a similar way as yours. 

I really like the videos you put together as well. It helps add a little more to the build and see some extra details of the boat.


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## gatorglenn (Jun 10, 2017)

Super job dude, and I agree with The10Man painting the inside makes a huge difference. If I understand you right in the video. You weighed the stuff that came out of the boat, and the new construction , you came up lighter. That's pretty darn good.


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## DocBrown (Jun 10, 2017)

The10Man said:


> Those decals turned out perfect!
> 
> Your build is awesome! I like that you painted the entire boat inside and out. A lot of builds it seems that guys don't paint their sub structure under the decks and have the raw, shiny aluminum below the hatches. Having the support structure the same color of the rest of the boat makes it look seamless and original.
> 
> ...


Thanks man, I was very pleasantly surprised with the decals. I purchased all my aluminum from Mine & Mill industrial supply in Lakeland. There's another place in town I've purchased from before but they don't sell to the public. I bet there's a place in your area, maybe try calling Airgas and see who they'd recommend. I'm glad you liked the videos. I did a lot of searching around the internet when I first started the project and the videos were most helpful. 



gatorglenn said:


> Super job dude, and I agree with The10Man painting the inside makes a huge difference. If I understand you right in the video. You weighed the stuff that came out of the boat, and the new construction , you came up lighter. That's pretty darn good.


I figured if I was going through the trouble of painting I might as well do the whole thing, haha!
You're correct on the weight. The key was the design of the front structure, all the members under bending stress are the thicker tube while the vertical pieces are thinner gauge. The rear floor stringers are the thin gauge as well. The front frame and recessed troll tray weighed 26lbs. 

Thanks for the nice comments guys. It took quite a bit of thinking, planning, sketching, & scrapping designs but it paid off.


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## DocBrown (Mar 1, 2020)

Its been about two years since I completed the build and wanted to do an update video for anybody thats interested. Thanks for following along in the build and subscribe to my channel for more videos related to the boat.

https://youtu.be/55CfvJC8iDo


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