# 14' Crestliner Viking refresh



## Silverad04 (Feb 17, 2014)

Yea know, there arnt near enough crestliners on this site!!! Starting with the trailer...


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## Silverad04 (Feb 18, 2014)

The factory Gator trailor is turning out nicely


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## countryboy210 (Feb 18, 2014)

Off To A Good Start !
Full Speed Ahead !


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## DrNip (Feb 18, 2014)

Yep, yep! Nice work space too!


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## Silverad04 (Feb 18, 2014)

Thanks fellas, I just finished the garage last month. I put up drywall, removed the crappy old work bench from the previous owner, and built the cabinets and new bench and painted everything. It was my first attempt at cabinets, not perfect by any means, but good enough for a garage. This was my first time working with oil based paints on a large scale, its soooo runny!!! Me and my buddy are going to do the second coat of primer tommorrow, and if all goes well, dark grey final coat next week. I have to order a whole bunch of bolts and hardware so I can put it back together.

-Rob


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## Pweisbrod (Feb 19, 2014)

Looks good. My next boat will be a 19 crestliner. Something with a forward console, like an old Norseman.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Feb 19, 2014)

Looks good. 
Don't forget the site has a trailer section.


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## Silverad04 (Feb 19, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=342228#p342228 said:


> lckstckn2smknbrls » Today, 11:53[/url]"]Looks good.
> Don't forget the site has a trailer section.


The subject of the post is the topic, the trailer is just a step in the rebuild, like sanding your hull before paint...


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## Silverad04 (Mar 5, 2014)

off to get its last coat of paint, I added the two side supports in the rear and got rid of the tilt functoion on the trailer. I also got rid of the front bunks and extended the rear bunks. I was worried about the front bunks rubbing off the steelflex epoxy when loading and unloading the boat.


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## Silverad04 (Mar 19, 2014)

I went and bought the materials for my aluminum transom. I got 1.5 x 1.5 square 1/8" tubing, and a sheet of 1/8" aluminum for the other side of the sandwich. I was planning on having the tubing welded up, and using the existing bolt holes from my wood transom, to bolt it back together. Does anyone see anything wrong with this plan?


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## Silverad04 (Apr 2, 2014)

well, progress is slow goin, but better than nothing. Do the seats look to high in the temp position? Should I lower them, ihas anyone had their seat this high?


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## jethro (Apr 3, 2014)

Seat height looks good to me... are you putting a flat floor in the boat? Would be perfect height with a flat floor.


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## Silverad04 (Apr 3, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=347334#p347334 said:


> jethro » 11 minutes ago[/url]"]Seat height looks good to me... are you putting a flat floor in the boat? Would be perfect height with a flat floor.



Yea im putting in a floor, but I sat on the seats and it seemed so high. Once I get the 3/4 inch flooring, carpet, and seat mount, I'll be sitting above, or close to the gunwal.


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## Silverad04 (Apr 6, 2014)

Also, if you look at my new transom, I've raised the height to 3.5 inches. This puts the total transom height at 20.5 inches, but the cavatation plate is still an inch or so below the hull. The motors a long shaft 20 inch according to the serial number. I know that the transom is slighly tilted, but should the transom heght be 20 inches or 21 inches? Its too late now either way, but I'm just curious. I'm hoping to gain some mph so I can make up for all the weight I'm adding, with just me before the modifications I could hit 22mph.


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## Silverad04 (Apr 9, 2014)

I've made the compartments so that I can remove the plastic containers for cleaning purposes. I also added the drain plug, I don't know if it'll work, but I'll find out when I take her on the test run.


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## Silverad04 (Apr 11, 2014)




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## Silverad04 (Apr 15, 2014)




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## Kismet (Apr 16, 2014)

That's clean work.

I got confused a bit, but think I figured out your layout. Should hell-for-stout. Please keep posting images.

=D>


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## Captmike (Apr 16, 2014)

Looks great. I really like the clean look.


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## huntinfool (Apr 16, 2014)

What are the tubs for? Storage? Good idea.


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## Silverad04 (Apr 16, 2014)

LOL I'm watching Forrest Gump..."Yea eva been ona shrimp boat? Noooo, but ive been ona real big boaaaaat"


Thanks everyone for the motivation. I've worked with my hands, carpentry, mechanics, engineering books(three semesters). I guess you could say that I'm a jack of all trades...master of none :-( 

Kismet. 
Thanks, It will be easier to follow the more work I can get done. My wife is pregnant...and moody, so I get yelled at everytime I go down to work on the boat, but I'll try to keep posted. I've got the fire centered under my A$$, fish are starting to bite!!! We found out its a girl, so I'm thinking of naming it after her, and I'll give it to her one day, that is if she's interested in fishing... :roll: 

Thanks capt mike


And as per Kismet's request...


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## Silverad04 (Apr 19, 2014)

Do we have a resident wiring expert here? How does this wiring diagram look? The gauges are listed on each wire. I'm still unsure about the size of fuses to use, ill have to look them up on each device. Also, will the motor charge the battery if its hooked up on the positive buss bar as shown? Sorry for the newb questions, I just don't have a lot of experience with wiring.


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## huntinfool (Apr 19, 2014)

First off when you say master switch what do you mean? Something like a main perko style switch? 
If so then what I see that I don't like is the positive lead of the motor going to the positive buss. I would move that to the master switch. I use a circuit breaker and I put that between the battery and main switch. 
I'm not saying this is how it has to be done, its just what I like to do. 
After that I think it is fine.


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## huntinfool (Apr 19, 2014)

I just went and took a pic of mine. This is the main switch I am talking about.


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## huntinfool (Apr 19, 2014)

I don't use a positive buss bar. I attach all my positive leads to this switch.


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## Silverad04 (Apr 20, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=349372#p349372 said:


> huntinfool » Yesterday, 21:59[/url]"]
> I don't use a positive buss bar. I attach all my positive leads to this switch.


 

Thanks huntinfool,

Yes, I will be using a perko style switch, I think I fixed the diagram according to your responses. I'm assuming, do I need to put all of the positive wires on the output side of the switch ?


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## Silverad04 (Apr 23, 2014)

I got a little work done yesterday. I bent the rear transom plate, drilled some holes, and sealed it all up. This is the first time ive worked with 5200, and wow!! This is some sticky stuff!!! As you can see I got a little carried away with it...


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## Silverad04 (Apr 23, 2014)

got a couple more pieces in place


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## rscottp (Apr 23, 2014)

Framing looks really sturdy!


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## Silverad04 (Apr 23, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=349901#p349901 said:


> rscottp » less than a minute ago[/url]"]Framing looks really sturdy!



Thanks rscottp, 

Does anyone have any insight on using steelflex on the interior? I was thinking of using my steel flex on the interior of the boat, gluviting the seams on the outside, and painting so it wont fade, and it will be easier to paint later?


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## rscottp (Apr 23, 2014)

Seems like most guys use the steel flex on the outside and the gluvit on the inside. I used gluvit inside and out, I put the gluvit inside first and it sealed up my leaks, used it on the outside just as a precaution.


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## Silverad04 (Apr 24, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=349908#p349908 said:


> rscottp » Yesterday, 22:07[/url]"]Seems like most guys use the steel flex on the outside and the gluvit on the inside. I used gluvit inside and out, I put the gluvit inside first and it sealed up my leaks, used it on the outside just as a precaution.



Hows it holding up? I didn't really have a leak, the seems were wet looking after I get in the water for a few minutes, and then it stops.


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## rscottp (Apr 24, 2014)

I did the area I had the leaks last year during the season. I didn't do the prep as good as I should have but it seems to be holding up pretty well. It has chipped off in a couple spots but nothing major. When I do it again I will only do seams and rivets, last year I did seams and rivets then a second coat over the entire thing which I think increases the likely hood that it will crack. Still no leaks though!


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## Begeti (Apr 25, 2014)

Great looking boat! I don't know if I overlooked it but what are the specs? Length, beam, floor, etc...


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## Silverad04 (Apr 25, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=350121#p350121 said:


> Begeti » Today, 11:26[/url]"]Great looking boat! I don't know if I overlooked it but what are the specs? Length, beam, floor, etc...


Its a 14' crestliner viking with a 63" beam. Idk remember what the transom length is. I can look it up next time im in the garage


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## smackdaddy53 (Apr 28, 2014)

Sweet build. Built like a tank


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## Silverad04 (May 8, 2014)

Got a little work done. I almost put a hole on my hand today... #-o =D> 
My assy battery box in the rear



I reinforced the front end where the trolling motor will be sitting



The front battery boxes, I built two so that I may use 2 29 series in parrallel later, right now i just have one 27 series.



I added the aluminum wall to keep foam from working its way into the rear, and added a couple supports


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## rscottp (May 8, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=350362#p350362 said:


> smackdaddy53 » 28 Apr 2014, 00:48[/url]"]Sweet build. Built like a tank


No doubt! Looks like you can run it through a brick wall!


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## Silverad04 (May 15, 2014)




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## Silverad04 (May 17, 2014)

done


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## Silverad04 (Jul 8, 2014)

Well taking all of the paint off this hull turned out to be a pita. The stripper had a hard time getting all of the old paint off, I don't know if it was because it probably had lead in it or what, but it was on there. the first couple layers of paint came off quick, but the last layer was an aluminum color, and was hard as a rock. Here's the finished pictures of my Steelflex application. I tried to put the Steelflex on pretty thick, I used about 3/4 of a gallon. I think it turned out pretty good.


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## Silverad04 (Jul 17, 2014)

got a little more painting done
I've included my paint plan, what do ya guys think so far?


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## Kismet (Jul 17, 2014)

Naw...you don't have a problem, no sir. 

LOTSA folks take a break from their boat restoration by buying another boat and working on IT.

Jeez. #-o #-o =D> #-o #-o 

Beautiful job on the Crestliner paint. Really a nice clean look.

Well done.


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## Timtactical (Jul 17, 2014)

Man, I wish I saw your build earlier, there is a place in Ottawa ks that will blast and powder coat your trailer for cheap. Prob around $200.

rml powder coating.


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## Silverad04 (Jul 18, 2014)

Thanks guys, old boat is now for sale. The wife okayed the second boat, and two days later yelled at me for buying it... #-o. Tonight I'm hoping to get some wood cut for the decks, I'm still not sure how I will attach the wood to the framing, but I'll figure something out. More to come, I'm hoping to finish up by the end of the month.


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## Timtactical (Jul 18, 2014)

I was looking at your wiring, isn't it common practice to put your fuse before the switch off the battery? Figuring in case your switch was to short it would protect your system.


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## Silverad04 (Jul 19, 2014)

Yeah, I'm new to this whole wiring thing. That may be something I'll have to look into when I get to that step.


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## Silverad04 (Jul 22, 2014)




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## Timtactical (Jul 22, 2014)

That wood looks really nice. Good work on the framing.


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## PatinIdaho (Jul 22, 2014)

Watching your build with interest! 
I also have a Viking 1957 i will be fixing up soon and posting a thread on.


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## Silverad04 (Jul 23, 2014)

Thanks guys, Patin, I'm looking forward to seeing your build. Seems to me as though there just arnt very many crestliners out there. The difference in the quality of the construction of this boat compaired to others of the same era is night and day if you ask me. Little things like the quality of the seems, amount of ribbing/rivits, and attention to detail compaired to the richline I had make the crestliner a more solid platform to start from. The 1958 viking was made to hold up to a 60hp motor. I feel pretty lucky to find this one in such good shape. That 57' will make you a solid boat for years to come for sure. As for the deck support, I always overbuild. I was even being modest in my building of the framing. I'm not sure of the actual weight, but It took myself and my neighbor to lift the richline from the ground to its trailer, and we picked up and flipped the viking, and the viking felt like it was lighter than the richline, even after all the aluminum was added. Sorry for the run on sentence, my english teacher would be pissed... [-X


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## PatinIdaho (Jul 23, 2014)

Thing has a TON of rivets. Lucky for me im a aircraft A&P so rivets are no problem at all. Wood working not so much!


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## Silverad04 (Jul 23, 2014)

Patin,
Thats cool!!! I too work at the airport, and I used to wrench on CH-53's in the military.

Heres my oar storage, and foam/floor install...


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## Silverad04 (Aug 1, 2014)




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## MrSimon (Aug 1, 2014)

Straight up awesome build!

Excellent planning and execution of a very functional and attractive design!


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## PatinIdaho (Aug 2, 2014)

Your doing some nice work there =D> 
I want to do something similar to your layout also.


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## Silverad04 (May 14, 2015)

Got a little more work done on the tin this week!


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## Silverad04 (May 14, 2015)

I also got a great deal on an old lund with a new, too big trailer to swap. The old gator trailer is straining now that i added all this weight. The new trailer is a 2005 and once i do a little rearranging will fit the crestliner great!


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## Johnny (May 14, 2015)

great job !! VERY PROFESSIONAL looking !! and Thank You for your service !! :USA1: 
*This should be a tutorial* for all those asking questions about working
with aluminum angle to fabricate floors and decks.
Is it all rivets or did you do any welding ?????

in 1985, I was cleaning out my garage of old junk (due to divorce) and I found
these two old "GATOR" Baby Moon" hub caps . . . the chrome was flaking off
so I tossed them in the trash. #-o ](*,) #-o . yeah, bad move.



here is what the Gator hubcaps look like - - - they sold on ebay for $60.
Just in case you don't have any or would like to invest in a pair.


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## Silverad04 (May 14, 2015)

Barefoot_Johnny said:


> great job !! VERY PROFESSIONAL looking !! and Thank You for your service !! :USA1:
> *This should be a tutorial* for all those asking questions about working
> with aluminum angle to fabricate floors and decks.
> Is it all rivets or did you do any welding ?????
> ...


 
Thanks Johnny, I used pop rivets mostly. I bucked a few on the main supports that are secured to the hull, and the transom has been welded, and sandwiched in. I've always been interested in fabrication, but this is my first experience with something like this. I sure learned a lot, and would do a few things a little different on my next build. I love the looks of the Gator trailer, but its just too small for the boat now that I have added all this material. Since I've redone the gator trailer, ill keep it and use it for my 12 foot lund. I see your a Seabee, I've worked with a few Seabee's on the Kearsarge a few years back. How long were you in for?


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## Johnny (May 14, 2015)

aaahhhhhh when you mention the USS Kearsarge to anyone, they ask, WHICH ONE ??? LOL
This one definitely reflects your age bracket.
Sailing Sloop - 1800s
Battle Ship - WWII
Aircraft Carrier - Korea
or the Amphibious Assault Ship 1990s - present

I was in the Navy for 21 years. Which encompassed a multitude of collateral duties.
one tour was with NMCB One and another tour with NMCB Forty. Builder, Construction and Equipment Operator.
Retired in 1987. 
LOL oh yea, I almost forgot . . . 3 years with the USMC Auxiliary Security Force Co. 1977-1980 in Guantanamo Bay, Cuba.

I guess that is why, like yourself, I enjoy repairing/building stuff. I have been in and around it for the majority
of my adult life.
My Crestliner is a 1959 model that is still as it came from the factory, minus the bench seats.
Did not "build" anything into it. Awesome boat to work with !!!

awesome build !!! LOL yea, your next builds will be a piece of cake !!!




my heart goes out to the families of the U.S. Marines that are on the missing 
USMC helicopter in Nepal. One of the young men is from my area. (Orlando).


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## Silverad04 (May 14, 2015)

I was on the kearsarge in 2008.


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## sonny.barile (May 14, 2015)

...on the subject of Naval vessels, my company gave us an outing today, and we visited the Intrepid. What an interesting history. They showed us some movies about when it got hit. Lives were lost, and it was out of commission for a while, but she made it back for the biggest naval battle in history. Made me very sad to think of all that gave their lives, yet proud to be standing on her decks. 

The Intrepid was also used for space capsule recoveries. Quite an amazing carrier. 


Sorry to break subject, but I thought this may interest a few of the poster's.


Sonny


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## Silverad04 (May 21, 2015)




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## Silverad04 (May 24, 2015)

Goals for this week are to finish the hatches. I'm waiting on more locks to come in, as well as parts to replace the impeller. I also would like to do a full detail, and finish painting. That pretty much wraps up this build. It's been a long two years on this build, but I'm happy with the results. Cant wait to take my dog out fishing.


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## Silverad04 (May 28, 2015)




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## Silverad04 (May 28, 2015)

I noticed on the bottom of the boat the steel flex in some areas is turning brownish in color, does anyone know if this can be cleaned off? If so what should i use? Ive tried hot water, and a sponge.


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## safetyfast (May 28, 2015)

This is one of my favorite builds. What paint and color did you use?


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## Silverad04 (May 28, 2015)

safetyfast said:


> This is one of my favorite builds. What paint and color did you use?


I used grey steel flex on the bottom, and Farm and implement paint for above the water line. I believe it was ford grey, and white. The interior is a primer colored grey. I purchased the paint at Orshlan Farm, its called Vansickle i believe.


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## safetyfast (May 28, 2015)

I have a red belly Ford and that gray is much darker. Whatever it is looks great.


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## Silverad04 (May 28, 2015)

safetyfast said:


> I have a red belly Ford and that gray is much darker. Whatever it is looks great.


Thanks, its been a lot of long nights, blood, sweat, and a whole lot of surfing tinboats to decide how I wanted to build the boat. My friends all tell me I should go into business...LOL If they had any idea the amount of labor that went into it they wouldn't say such things. [-X :roll: Definitely a labor of love!!!


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## Silverad04 (Jun 2, 2015)

Tried starting the motor yesterday, and it ran for a couple seconds and then died. Tore it down today and after a good cleaning she purs like a walrus!!! 8)


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## g0nef1sshn (Jun 2, 2015)

Barefoot_Johnny said:


> aaahhhhhh when you mention the USS Kearsarge to anyone, they ask, WHICH ONE ??? LOL
> This one definitely reflects your age bracket.
> Sailing Sloop - 1800s
> Battle Ship - WWII
> ...




I was on kearsarge in 2005 26th MEU as a Marine. Been a long time since I seen that name anywhere.


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## Bassin'Florida (Jun 2, 2015)

Did the boat motor decals change colours? Or did I just miss something? I'm not crazy right? :-k


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## Silverad04 (Jun 5, 2015)

Bassin'Florida said:


> Did the boat motor decals change colours? Or did I just miss something? I'm not crazy right? :-k


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## Silverad04 (Jun 5, 2015)

Silverad04 said:


> Bassin'Florida said:
> 
> 
> > Did the boat motor decals change colours? Or did I just miss something? I'm not crazy right? :-k


I changed the color, red didnt go very well with the boat


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## fool4fish1226 (Jun 5, 2015)

Great build awesome work :beer:


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