# Boyenson Reeds/ OMC's



## ray55classic (Mar 11, 2011)

I'd like to hear of anyones experiences with Boyensons Reeds especially on the 57' thru 73' OMC's 12 to 20 hp platform. I've got a 63'Johnson 18hp that I've tweeked a little bit with a late model intake and 28hp carb , But like all old gearheads I'm always looking for a little more.....


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## Pappy (Mar 11, 2011)

Have a ton of experience with them. I was into drag boats (outboards) for several years and we put them into our V6 and V8 loopers. Anything we did was controlled and tested on a measured and marked OMC 1,000' testing course. We saw zero improvement with them and it didn't take long before the reeds began to warp and stay open which had a detrimental effect on idle and starting. Out of three engines we installed them in we eventually broke 2 reeds forcing a piston replacement on one engine. Keep in mind these engines weren't everyday runners so the total hours the reeds stayed in there wasn't long. The stock reeds did an excellent job. In your case you can extend the reed stops a little and gain some performance but my next step with that engine would be to cut the head around .060 or so. Stay with 89 octane fuel. Squaring the intake ports and blending the transfer area will also net you some gain as well. Try and keep your RPMs down below 5,000 or so to keep the longevity up and run plenty of oil.


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## ray55classic (Mar 11, 2011)

Thanks Pappy they were marked off the list. I Always run 24 to 1 mixture I'll try the porting if I ever pull her apart again but she's running really good right now so I'm not gonna mess up a good thing ....


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## LonLB (Mar 11, 2011)

That is the first negative review I have EVER heard from them. Even guys over on scream and fly use them.

Actual power gains are not something that is usually talked about. Usually better starting, better idle, and improved response. Especially mid range.

In fact, part of the reason the guys over there use them is because the engine can ingest one if it breaks and usually not have any issues.

Stock steel reeds break and the engine WILL get damaged.


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## lucescoflathead (Mar 11, 2011)

You may want to see if they're available for you motor. I checked and they didn't have any for my 1971 25 HP Evinrude. They did say to send them measurements of my reed and they would see if they had one that would work.

I can't find too much information on hot rodding a smaller outboard. I know what you mean, I can't leave anything stock.


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## Pappy (Mar 11, 2011)

Stock steel reeds hardly ever break! I honestly cannot remember the last time I saw a production reed break. Second, if you have ever had the fiber reeds in your hand and flexed them you would probably notice that they are at least as stiff as the production reeds, possibly more so as they begin to arc. A stiff reed will not add performance. They can and will damage an engine if they get caught in the exhaust port on the way out of and engine and jam between the piston and cylinder wall. They do have a great Ad campaign though and sell one heck of alot of reeds. Kind of like K&N filters and Optima batteries. You have to also realize that alot of guys on Scream and Fly may not know alot about engines. Those reeds may work on some engines better than others. The OP asked for opinions and I gave him an honest one that was backed up by numbers on a course not just a seat of the pants maybe it helped or it felt like it helped answer. How exactly does one measure mid-range response in an engine?


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## Lil' Blue Rude (Mar 12, 2011)

Hit this guy up on a set of reeds. https://www.chriscarsonmarine.com/ 
If he doesn't have them I'm sure he would make a set. He is very reasonabley priced too. He is even cheaper then Boyenson. I'm sure he would make some custom reeds in diffrent thicknesses. I just bought a set from him tuesday and I'm hoping they will come in tommorow. I've made carbon fiber reeds for my 40hp OMC before and I could tell I had a better hole shot and a little more top end, then after about five or ten minutes of running they started to fray at the ends so I went back to stocks until I found Chris Carson reeds. I've never heard anything but good thing about Chris and his products and customer support. He was very good to get back with me and ansewered all of my questions.


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## ray55classic (Mar 12, 2011)

I really appreciate the responses, and hope more folks tell us of their experiences with boyesons. It's given me something to think about. They do manufacter reeds for my motor #128 fits 18,20,25, and 35hp OMC's.I was wondering how they held up vs steel. I guess I'm an old fart for still believing steel is the prefered material inside a motor {pistons not included} I trust it over the long run more than modern miracles. The ones on my motor are 48yrs old and still running strong , talk about crappy quality.....


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## LonLB (Mar 12, 2011)

Pappy said:


> Stock steel reeds hardly ever break! I honestly cannot remember the last time I saw a production reed break. Second, if you have ever had the fiber reeds in your hand and flexed them you would probably notice that they are at least as stiff as the production reeds, possibly more so as they begin to arc. A stiff reed will not add performance. They can and will damage an engine if they get caught in the exhaust port on the way out of and engine and jam between the piston and cylinder wall. They do have a great Ad campaign though and sell one heck of alot of reeds. Kind of like K&N filters and Optima batteries. You have to also realize that alot of guys on Scream and Fly may not know alot about engines. Those reeds may work on some engines better than others. The OP asked for opinions and I gave him an honest one that was backed up by numbers on a course not just a seat of the pants maybe it helped or it felt like it helped answer. How exactly does one measure mid-range response in an engine?




Note that I wasn't trying to say you were wrong. Just that this is the first I have ever heard of it.

You said that the reeds are stiff. I'm guessing you aren't talking about the power reeds....Their two stage reeds.

The guys at scream and fly have more boat engine knowledge than any other site. There are literally dozens of actual racers, and hundreds of hot rodders.


Mid range throttle response can be measured with 30-60 mph or 30-70mph times. (or anything in between)


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## MattR (Mar 12, 2011)

Regardless of which type of engine it is, auto, truck, snowmobile, outboard, etc., there is a difference between achieving best speed and reliability. Boyeson reeds can help achieve more speed, yet stock will give you the reliability. 



LonLB said:


> The guys at scream and fly have more boat engine knowledge than any other site. There are literally dozens of actual racers, and hundreds of hot rodders.


They have knowledge on how to make the boat scream and fly, that is it. They *race*, and with racing comes lots and lots of spare parts, which I can gurantee that one of those spare parts is a set of reeds. I worked at a boat repair shop and only once seen a set of stock reeds that were bad. I have seen plenty of aftermarket reeds get tossed in the trash because they were broken or frayed. So I will agree that Boyeson reeds can get you there faster, yet stock reeds will get you there multiple times longer than aftermarket reeds.

If you break down in the water on a secluded lake by yourself, what you gonna do? Walk to get help? I doubt it.

FYI, the shop I worked at.... Our rebuilds came with a warranty, unless aftermarket reeds were requested. They voided our warranty because of the reliability issue.

Matt


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## Pappy (Mar 12, 2011)

Only reeds I have installed were the two stage ones. They were no better than production for me and had twice the petals to hang open once they had a few hours on them. I still have a couple sets in a cabinet in the garage. As for Scream and Fly (am a member) I will stand by my statement on the fact that most in there do not have adequate engine knowledge, they will listen to their buddies before doing the research in alot of cases. There is a difference between a guy that can change parts on an engine and someone who actually knows how to gain horsepower or what makes an engine work. There is a small percentage in there that have a vast wealth of knowledge and can be well respected for that. A few of the guys in there came out of the outboard industry and brought that knowledge with them. Pretty much the same for any forum. Probably wouldn't be any forums if we all knew the answers.


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## lakeracer99 (Apr 29, 2011)

I have to say Pappy that you would have to be the only person I have ever heard speak badly of composite reeds and prefer steel ones in a racing motor...So who are you on SnF and what drag boats did you run? I would be ok with steel in a fishin motor turning 5k also, but if you go crankin one, I want the composite ones! The use of composite reeds is not to improve top end, but to improve acceleration and they are safer to injest then a stock steel reed. Composite has the flex and does not develop the fatigue that the steel does the turning high rpm...err uh, at least that is what I read, lol.

I also would like a set for my fastwin motors. I was thinking of making a couple sets to try, fiber and carbon. All Merc Hi Perf motors use composite reeds and have for over 20yrs...
All my drag Mercs turn over 10K and they run composite reeds! Even the nitrous motors like the glass reeds better.

So has anyone ran a set in a small OMC? I bet the ProGT and sportC guys run them. 
I do agree with adding compression also.


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## crazymanme2 (Apr 29, 2011)

I raced 25SSH (which is a 1986 or newer 25hp Merc)& the preferred reed was stock.Mercs stock 25hp reeds are rubber coated.I have a brand new set of Boyenson that were free that I never ran because as Pappy said not as reliable.


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## Jasonalex84 (Apr 30, 2011)

I've always had nothing but good luck with Boyenson reeds no matter what I put them in. I used to have a 2-stroke race bike and Boyenson was the only thing I'd run in them. You could tell a MAJOR improvement in the higher rpm range. It did seem a bit more sluggish in the lower range but heck it was a racing 2-stroke..... it was made it run wide open. Once I switched to Boyenson I only had to replace them once and that was because I shattered a piston and a piece of the piston shot through the reeds and cracked one of them. I found that piece in the carb.


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## montff77 (Aug 14, 2011)

This is @ pappy. Hi, I'm new here and this is my first entry. I'm interested in further details on squaring the ports and blending the transfer area on an 64 Johnson 18hp. I can handle shaving the head .060 and as far as extending the reed stops, it seems that this was the only difference between the 18 and 20 HP models? So that should be a 2hp gain alone. Also what HP increase would u "reckon" the shaved head would bring and how much harder is it to pull start. I am hoping your still active on here bc I'm lost without some insight from someone who knows..... Thank you much...


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## Pappy (Aug 14, 2011)

Fortunately, or unfortunately, I'm still here. Blending the transfer area may be hard to explain without photos but will try. As you look into the intake port through the bypass cover area you will note the port is a simple drilled port. Two things can be done here. The port can be squared for one and then the lower edge of the port, on the bypass cover side only, can be angled down to allow the air to transition smoothly into the port rather than have to make a hard 90 degree turn. The bottom of the cylinder liner casting (the aluminum part of the block that surrounds the cast iron liner) can also be blended as well as any other sharp corners you see that will disrupt airflow. As far as how hard is it to pull after shaving the head?....You will notice a difference! Don't know about the exact horsepower gain but I can tell you it is well worth doing. Buy a "tiny tach" before you start any of this work and get your boat lightened up and go out and see what the engine turns then make your changes and note the differences.


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## montff77 (Aug 15, 2011)

I thank you happy for a quick response. The head in mine has a leaking thread-sert so when I find a head it'll get the trim. I'll be looking for some bigger reed stops and may have to wait until I go in here b4 what your are telling me sinks in about squaring ports and blending the transfer. Maybe I can take some pictures and have you confirm them or if you find some maybe you can send me.. I hope I can recognize these areas. I will by a yacht and record data. I'll probably get a 9-1/4x11 prop bc I have a 9x10 that is surely wore and been ground down. It pushes my 14ft v-hull alum. Sea nymph at about 24 when stripped down. I'm thinking with a few more ponies I can spend a light load prop plenty good. I go plenty fast for what I do but you know how it is with us tinkerers. What plugs would you run with standard and then with raised compression? Thanks


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## montff77 (Aug 17, 2011)

This is a pic of behind my bypass cover. I can see four drilled ports feeding the combustion chamber and a rectangular port coming from the crankcase.


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## lakeracer99 (Aug 17, 2011)

crazymanme2 said:


> I raced 25SSH (which is a 1986 or newer 25hp Merc)& the preferred reed was stock.Mercs stock 25hp reeds are rubber coated.I have a brand new set of Boyenson that were free that I never ran because as Pappy said not as reliable.



Anyone have a set of composite reeds (glass or carbon) that they want to donate to my OMC fastwins (22ci and 31.8ci) or Merc Hurricanes (20ci and 22ci)...I will put them in my motor and you guys can tell me you where right when I go turning it 7k with glass reeds and they break like pappy said so.

I know you guys don't think much of us race guys, but there are good discussions on pumping up the fastwins on boatracingfacts and screamandfly...Bomber B1 is a hydroplane B class they were trying to get started using this motor platform. GT Pro and Mini GT are successful tunnel and V classes that use the later versions (31.8ci) of this motor also...Sport C was the class from the 80's using the 25 OMC motors also.

I am running a 1957 fastwin on a 14ft aluminum runabout and am getting around 27GPS with 12p. Motor is up 1/2in off the transom and going up to 1in soon.
I plan to raise the compression on one of my fastwins for a starting point. I have to get my tach working before I go anyfurther.

Have fun and post up some hard numbers guys!


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## Lil' Blue Rude (Aug 18, 2011)

Talk to Chris Carson about a set of reeds. I'll bet you they won't brake at 7000rpms.


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## lakeracer99 (Aug 26, 2011)

Lil' Blue Rude said:


> Talk to Chris Carson about a set of reeds. I'll bet you they won't brake at 7000rpms.



I agree...anyone else buildin one of these motors? Montff, any updates?


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## montff77 (Aug 26, 2011)

Not exactly. I've ordered a new old stock head off of ebay bc my old one had a threaded insert that was leaking. I am going to replace head with a stock, tune engine and rebuild fuel pump then log data. I'll plug weld the old head and tap new threads, then have it shaved, log data. Currently in search of 1966 20hp reed stops to convert to a 20hp, log data. Lastly going and polish ports. I'm slow but sol do. Any input?


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## montff77 (Aug 26, 2011)

Not exactly. I've ordered a new old stock head off of ebay bc my old one had a threaded insert that was leaking. I am going to replace head with a stock, tune engine and rebuild fuel pump then log data. I'll plug weld the old head and tap new threads, then have it shaved, log data. Currently in search of 1966 20hp reed stops to convert to a 20hp, log data. Lastly going and polish ports. I'm slow but sol do. Any input?


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## lakeracer99 (Aug 26, 2011)

What is your boat? Its good to get baseline numbers before changing anything. Thats where im at with mine (finding a tach).

I agree with compression, then id look at carbs...I have 15, 18, 20 - all really close to the same carb with different mains. you gotta get exhaust out too when you increase the air and fuel.


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## montff77 (Aug 26, 2011)

14ft 50's or 60's sea nymph slum. Vhull. You say really close but books say same??? Main jets the same says my books??


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## lakeracer99 (Aug 26, 2011)

I know, Im just reporting what i have seen with my eyes. venturi size all the same on these. the 15 has smaller diameter main, the 18 was larger and had 3 holes in it and the 20 same as 18 with only 2 holes. Sorry, im not a carb expert, so i don't know how or if these effect the motors. Age of motors was 1953 15, 1957 18 and 1969 20, which might matter also.

I probably have a similar boat...60's 14ft V weighs 360 rigged with motor


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## linehand (Aug 26, 2011)

lakeracer99 said:


> crazymanme2 said:
> 
> 
> > I raced 25SSH (which is a 1986 or newer 25hp Merc)& the preferred reed was stock.Mercs stock 25hp reeds are rubber coated.I have a brand new set of Boyenson that were free that I never ran because as Pappy said not as reliable.
> ...



I'm with the racers on this one. I'm not a big outboard guy but I have built and raced for that matter many many small bore two strokes. And I can say I have tried about every reed on the market and prehistoric steel ones never crossed my mind.


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## ditchen (Aug 26, 2011)

been silent long enough,,,

about 1year on the boysens power reeds, I'll say decision based on dollar factor. Not what I would use on a race motor, but did use them on this 81 modified 50hp Johnson. 

I did the $49.95 + shipping to me. Fine tuning required!

My observation:
big difference in mid range; more throttle responsive
believe it or not,, a little better gas mileage
more RPM on top end (your prop combo will be a big factor in this)

I've done other mods,, keeping it on 89 octane level and so far very satisfied with them.

Disclaimer:
You alter from stock, you could have unpredictable results and more maintenance will be required!.


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## ditchen (Sep 3, 2011)

Anyone else use these Boyson Power Reeds, or am I the only one? Your opinion??


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## lakeracer99 (Sep 3, 2011)

ditchen said:


> Anyone else use these Boyson Power Reeds, or am I the only one? Your opinion??



as you can tell from above, I use them in my bigger racing motors. I will in my little 25 as soon as I get it up and running.


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