# Mitre saw help please



## Jim (Apr 17, 2015)

I need to buy a mitre saw. What am I looking for, and what should I avoid? This is not for full time use, projects here and there. The easier to use and maintain, the better.

Thanks,
Jim


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## SevenPin (Apr 17, 2015)

Jim said:


> I need to buy a mitre saw. What am I looking for, and what should I avoid? This is not for full time use, projects here and there. The easier to use and maintain, the better.
> 
> Thanks,
> Jim



Jim,

How wide of lumber are you expecting to work with? Will you need to be able to do bevels or just straight and angled cuts? I currently have a 12" Rigid Dual Bevel Mitre saw that will handle lumber up to 8" wide. There are also sliding mitre saws but they start getting pricey. My first saw was a Black & Decker 10" and it worked great (until it fell off my sawhorse stand  ). Kobalt saws at Lowe's look pretty good but I've never used one. I would think any "name" brand saw will work for your normal type of cuts.

Hope this helps.

Rick


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## Keystone (Apr 17, 2015)

My two cents Jim....

Both are Sliding Compound Miter Saws (SCMS)
https://www.harborfreight.com/10-in-sliding-compound-miter-saw-61971.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-double-bevel-sliding-compound-miter-saw-with-laser-guide-system-61970.html

I have been using the HFT 10" SCMS in my wood shop for close to 14 years. One of the best bargains out there IMO. I would really like to find a way to justify replacing it with a "better" brand but can not. I use it mostly for 90* cuts. When I need dead on precise angle cuts I use my Unisaw. But for general use/construction you will be hard pressed to find one that out performs these. I have a real good blade on mine (cost more at the time than the saw did!).


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## bobberboy (Apr 17, 2015)

If you are looking for a cut-off saw only you don't need to spend a lot. A typical 10" one will cut 2x4's and smaller no problem and will cut a 2x4 at 45°. It will not cut completely through a 4x4, always leaving the last 3/8" or so uncut and it will not cut all the way through a 2x6 either. If you are cutting boards larger than 4" in either dimension you should consider either a 12" cut-off saw or a sliding compound.

I own 2 Mikita's and bought one for the shop where I worked and they are real workhorses. The saw in the shop at work was a 12" sliding compound that took the place of an old radial-arm saw. It was used constantly by a number of people. It really held up well and at the time I retired had been in use for about 15 years. My first one was a 10" cut-off saw that I bought over 30 years ago and still use to cut aluminum. Three years ago I bought a used but perfect 10" compound slider and I am very pleased with it. It works smoothly and perfectly.

Two things: If you are doing critical joints like picture frames I'd stick with a simple cut-off saw. The fewer moving parts and adjustments the more accurate it's going to stay. The other is the blade guard. My first Mikita had a guard that was supposed to push up as you brought the saw down. That worked ok at first but after a while it began to bind and wouldn't retract. It's dangerous to try to hold on to the material while trying to push the saw down and un-stick the bound up blade guard. Get one that has a mechanical connection to the saw so that when you lower the saw it raises the guard.

Look at reviews. Keystone seems to have done all right by Harbor Freight which generally has mixed reviews. It's possible to get a good Harbor Freight or a bad Mikita. The reviews are really helpful and you can usually detect which are the habitual complainers and ignore them.


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## lovedr79 (Apr 17, 2015)

Jim i didnt want to spend $400 on a commercial mitre saw when i built my garage. i bought a chicago brand 10" sliding mitre saw from harbor freight for $89. with the expectatoin that it would die as i was finishing my garage. 8 years later that thing is still kicking.


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## Johnny (Apr 17, 2015)

I have always used a 12" compound miter . . . 
so all I can endorse is a hefty 12" x 40 tooth blade.
For wood, plastics and non ferrous metals.


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## nlester (Apr 17, 2015)

Watch the weight. A simple saw with a 10" blade works most of the time. I have 12" tilting Dewalt that is great for crown moulding. It is a workhorse but it is getting too heavy for me to move around. At 72, I also had to start buying my concrete iin 50 lb bags, instead of 80!lb ones. 

For over 30 years I used Sears' first saw at home and on the job. It was simple and light weight. I loved it. My son still has it now. It was the cheapest miter saw made at that time. Mine is probably the last one of those saws left. 

I would look at weight, how I plan to use it and then price. I like my Dewalt while I am using it, but I hate moving it. 

I have a few HF tools that I like but I have not had good luck with their power tools.

Bobber boy hit most of the main points.


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## Johnny (Apr 17, 2015)

LOL I'm with you Lester !! right behind you in the age bracket.
we can no longer do the 80# bags of concrete, or 80# pack of shingles up to the roof.
The 12" commercial compound saws are quite bulky and heavy. Taking into account of how/where
you store it and how often you use it should be taken into consideration.


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## richg99 (Apr 17, 2015)

Lots of good advice above. 

As was said, an inexpensive saw, equipped with a decent blade...can solve a LOT of problems. Almost took a cheap bench saw back because it vibrated so much. 

Instead, I put on a better blade that I already owned, and it was a much better tool afterwards.


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## DaleH (Apr 17, 2015)

REGARDLESS of brand, after you buy it take a scrap piece and make a Left 45 and right 45 cut, then cut in half. If the two 45s don't make a square 90-degree corner, the saw is WORTHLESS ...

I see cheap saws OFF on one angle or the other ...


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## Johnny (Apr 17, 2015)

If an adjustable power tool does not cut correctly,
it may just need some slight adjustments.
I often find the factory set markings are not always true and precise,
but, will produce satisfactory results if framing a house, deck or gazebo.
There are other fine tools on the market for making picture frames, etc
where higher accuracy is desired if that is the what you are looking for.

Like any product, the accuracy, functionality and durability is reflected in the price you pay for it.

in MY opinion


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## DaleH (Apr 17, 2015)

Barefoot_Johnny said:


> ... the saw is not _worthless_ ...


And now WHERE have I heard that before? Oh yeah, now I remember!

_"If you like your mitre saw that can't cut a proper and correct 45-degree angle ... you can keep that mitre saw ..."_


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## KMixson (Apr 17, 2015)

I just purchased a Kobalt 7 1/4" sliding miter saw from Lowes. It supposedly cuts up to a 2X8. It worked well for my first job of building a custom shelf in my place. I am very happy with it. It is lightweight and small which were my main requirements after cutting a straight line. I tried a hand saw, a hand miter saw and a skill saw and could not get them to cut a straight line to save my life. I got aggravated and purchased this saw and it was a breeze. 

https://www.lowes.com/pd_358937-460...ws&pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=miter+saws&facetInfo=


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## Johnny (Apr 17, 2015)

In my opinion, the craftsman educates himself through experience to make 
the necessary adjustments as he needs in order to do his work.
So, in essence, a person with a little skill can turn out some pretty decent projects
with a little practice with tools that do not cost a fortune.

Jus my dos centavos


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## Johnny (Apr 17, 2015)

Mixon, that is a very nice saw for a good price !!
After you use it for awhile, please let us know how you like it.


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## Jim (Apr 17, 2015)

Thanks guys I'm good now! :lol:


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## richg99 (Apr 17, 2015)

Most saws can be adjusted to do the job. Whether or not they can retain that setting is another story. If you aren't making a lot of picture frames it may be a small issue. 

My wife and I put a 20 x 16 addition on our house (45 years ago) with nothing but a ten inch Craftsman circular saw and hand tools. 

richg99


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## Jim (Apr 18, 2015)

Any "detail" work will result in me losing my fingers. :LOL2: 

This is for straight cuts. :lol: 


Thanks again guys!


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## Johnny (Apr 18, 2015)

Jim,
I have been in, around and near wood working projects since 1958
when our idea of a Cordless Drill was the hand powered auger brace & bit !! LOL

Just one quick note and I will close (says the pastor) . . . 

Once a person, man OR woman, becomes familiar with hand and power tools, and has the
desire and passion for producing nice projects, you will be surprised at just how quickly that
person has the confidence to build things for the house and yard for the family, friends and neighbors.
So, you may not think it now, but, don't cut yourself short (pun intended) about your 
skill level. What starts off as just cutting some boards for this, that and the other, often
turns into furniture. LOL I have seen it so many times. And, often as not, women also
can quickly gather the confidence and skill level to become a skilled craftsman.
Just like an old geezer told me once, no matter how big the samich, we all must take small bites.
So for a beginner, the entry level tools are very okay. Just learn how to handle them safely and
make the adjustments and maintain them so you don't get frustrated.
And, like Norm says - - - Read, understand and follow all the safety precautions that pertain to
each tool. And you only have two eyes, take care of them.

Johnny


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## nlester (Apr 18, 2015)

In my opinion one way to make a light weight miter saw last and keep it true is not to rush your cuts, take it slow and give the blade time & room to work.


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## Hanr3 (Apr 25, 2015)

IF this is only for sporadic use, why buy a special tool for it? I don't own a miter saw and build staff all the time. Last project was a new 14'x18' shed with salt shaker style roof, before that was kitchen cabinets, bathroom cabinets, basement walls, brothers basement, and the list goes on and on. If you must use a miter saw, buy a miter box, about $20 at your local tool store. You will need the proper hand saw to go with it. Man has been building things for centuries, without power tools. I have a hard time justifying a specialized power tool for a single use application. 

I use my skill saw and a carpenters square. Draw a line with the square, and cut on the line. If its critical, use the square as a straight edge and push the skill saw against it.


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