# Need help getting this trailer setup



## Tin Yachtsman (Jun 20, 2010)

Hello everyone. Happy Father's Day. As you can see in the pictures below, my trailer is in need of some work. I have zero boat experience but a decent amount of mechanical ability. I've read many of the posts on the site and have some ideas, but I want to make sure I'm heading down the right path. So, let me fire off a few questions:

On the bow stop: Does everyone agree I should just remove the old rubber bow stop and bracket and replace it with a 2x4? As you can see in the picture, it is several inches away from the hull of the boat, so I need to adjust or lengthen the arm to reach the boat. My first idea was to put a block of wood between the arm and the trailer to make the arm stick out a couple inches farther. What about moving the arm above the winch?

On the bunks: Just remove the current ones and replace them with covered 2x4s? Take off the rollers and brackets as well? 

I currently have the winch hook, the safety chain, and the bow rope all attached to the boat through an extra ring because none of them will snap securely onto the boat handle. It's probably not the safest setup. What can I do to improve that? 

Thanks in advance!


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## Froggy (Jun 20, 2010)

Welcome, definitly on a jon, flat 2x4's(not pressure treated) you treat them yourself with Thompsons, then cover with carpets, 6 feet or more, flat on the frame, look at my Harbor freight trailer bunk mods in the trailer section, also the trailer tips, definitly need a 2x4 X 2 foot carpet covered up front, can you crank that winch? looks close. Good luck


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## Tin Yachtsman (Jun 20, 2010)

Froggy said:


> can you crank that winch? looks close. Good luck



That's as close as I can get it.


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## bassassassin8 (Jun 20, 2010)

Bass Pro has a product called E-Z slides, they're like $20-30, I can't remember but we bought them for our trailer. Each pad is about 8'' & has two screws that go directly to the bunk (you'll probably need 6, I think we have 8). You'd be surprised what a difference they make launching & loading your boat. I'd highly reccomend them to make that part of your trip a little easier.


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## BassBlaster (Jun 21, 2010)

Check out my trailer project and you can see how I set mine up. I converted a trailer for a v hull to a flat bottom trailer. The bracket I used to mount my bow stop I made myself out of a scrap piece of angle and a piece of 1/2" pipe. I can take a close up pic of the bracket if you need to see it.

www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=13048


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## BaitCaster (Jun 21, 2010)

I didn't replace the rear rollers on my trailer with bunks, and so far I haven't had any problem.

I thinkn the 2x4 is the way to go on the winch post. I have a rubber "v" which works well on mine, but my winch set up is different than yours.

I use a carabiner on my front handle just like you do for the winch. I don't see any safety issues with doing that as long as the carabiner is rated for the weight. If you really wanted to you could install a bow ring on your boat without too much trouble.

Check out my trailer project on the link in my signature.

Chjeers,
BC


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## bassboy1 (Jun 23, 2010)

Tin Yachtsman said:


> On the bow stop: Does everyone agree I should just remove the old rubber bow stop and bracket and replace it with a 2x4?


Yep, I'm in agreement there.



> What about moving the arm above the winch?


Definitely a good idea. In a crash, having the arm above the winch will cause the handle to get hung as the boat slides forward after the straps come free. Replacing a bow handle beats all the damage done after you pull the boat out of the back of your tow vehicle. 



> On the bunks: Just remove the current ones and replace them with covered 2x4s?


Yep, and make them loooonnger. You will be amazed at how easy a flat bottom boat will load on a properly set up trailer with long bunks and...



> Take off the rollers and brackets as well?


... no keel rollers. I hate keel rollers with a passion. They are a necessary evil on certain deeper vee hulls, but they sure are a PITA to load with. I've got them on a current vee, and I'm pondering numerous ways to get rid of them. 'Bout the only thing I like them for is holding a motor toter.



> I currently have the winch hook, the safety chain, and the bow rope all attached to the boat through an extra ring because none of them will snap securely onto the boat handle. It's probably not the safest setup. What can I do to improve that?


As long as the ring is of adequate strength, I see absolutely no problem with it. The one thing that _might_ worry me is the cast handle (castings break, whereas something else will give a little bit first), as well as what sort of backing the fasteners have. If it is just two rivets through the bow hull, they might start to pull through. If that is a worry to you, get a simple bow ring, or quality U-bolt, and be sure to use a back up plate of some sort.


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## Tin Yachtsman (Jun 23, 2010)

BassBlaster said:


> Check out my trailer project and you can see how I set mine up. I converted a trailer for a v hull to a flat bottom trailer. The bracket I used to mount my bow stop I made myself out of a scrap piece of angle and a piece of 1/2" pipe. I can take a close up pic of the bracket if you need to see it.
> 
> https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=13048



Sure, Bassblaster, pictures are always a big help. I did check out your mod thread and picked up some pointers. Thanks to everyone for the advice you've offered so far.

I got a little work done on my day off. After a trip to Lowes I started removing the rollers, brackets, and old bunks. Most of the bolts were securely rusted in place and ended up snapping off. I also cut the new bunks and got a coat of Thompson's on them. I noticed something on my trailer that got me thinking, and I wanted to run it by you guys: Where some of you have placed a bunk perpendicular to the tongue, there are four strategically placed pre-drilled holes that would allow me to run two bunks parallel to the tongue. The advantage I see is that the center strake of my jon could run between the two bunks instead of resting on the bunk. It might help center it when loading. The only disadvantage I see is that I have to cut, seal, and carpet another piece of wood. Am I missing something that would make the single, perpendicular bunk the better option?


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## BassBlaster (Jun 23, 2010)

I dont see why your idea wouldnt work allthough your not gonna have support all the way across the front of the boat. It looks like your rear bunks are long enough that I dont see it being an issue.

Here is the bow stop bracket I fabbed up. Its just 2 small pieces of 1 1/2" x 1/8" angle and a piece of 1/2" steel gas line welded in between that the bolt runs through. I attached the bow stop with two 3/8" carraige bolts that I countersunk before I carpeted.





A close up of the bracket.


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## Tin Yachtsman (Jun 28, 2010)

Okay, so I got the bunks covered and re-installed today. My carpeting skills will never land me a job in the flooring industry, but as my Grandmother says, "You'll never notice it from a galloping horse." They will do for now. I also worked on my bow stop issue. It took a 4x4 block of wood to extend the arm enough to reach the boat. I'm going to put the boat in the water tomorrow and try out the improvements. 

I also have a new concern. Is the trailer supposed to be able to bend up where the tongue meets the "Y" in the frame? The old bunks were only attached to the trailer in one spot, and they pivoted down when the boat slid off into the water. But the new bunks are attached in two places, and when I slid the boat back onto the trailer, the tongue and rear frame bent up until the boat was farther forward on the trailer. I never got under there and looked, but I just assumed it was all welded together. The only thing keeping the tongue and frame together are two rusty old bolts, so I'm a little concerned. Thanks again.


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