# Alumacraft 1232 Jon Boat (Miss Peach) - Complete!



## super_dork (Aug 8, 2011)

I recently got a sweet deal on a 2002 Alumacraft 1232 with a trailer, 2 6HP outboards (already have a working 6HP Johnson), a trolling motor and more. I sold everything except the boat and trolling motor, bought a new Harbor Freight trailer and bow mount trolling motor. I assembled the trailer last night and am starting work on the decks. I have been looking at the various projects on here and have gotten some good ideas. I think that I'm going to try to make it similar to Donaldsonmb's 1960 1232 Eldor Project https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=18593.

I've been reading about the issue with a high deck on a 1232, but it is mostly for my wife to lay out on. I'm actually looking at making it modular so I can add the high deck when she comes then take it out and have a low deck when it's just me.












Here's a link to the album. I'll be adding pics as I go.
https://picasaweb.google.com/100696660778494092748/MissPeach?authkey=Gv1sRgCJTi6crAx_XaRA#

Anyway, just thought I'd share. I hope to keep this project moving. I've got all sorts of stuff on order. Other than the deck, my plan is to add a bow and transom trolling motor, wired in lights, storage and a fish finder. Maybe a portable livewell, but I generally catch and release, so that's optional at this point.

For the trailer, I've got the factory bunks on it and the boat sits really high. Any thought on how to mount new bunks that will sit lower (maybe just above the rollers).


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## super_dork (Aug 10, 2011)

Updating with trailer pics. I looked at several of the Harbor Freight trailer mods on here and made a few adjustments. Enjoy.
















Just need to move the trailer jack to the other side so it doesn't get in the way of the winch crank on the same side.


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## gillhunter (Aug 10, 2011)

Good looking project! My wife also uses the front deck to lay out on when she tires of fishing. 

You might want to check out the link below and reconsider you winch and bow stop positioning. You could end up with your boat in the back of your tow rig if you had a winch or winch strap failure. 

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=19707


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## super_dork (Aug 10, 2011)

Thanks for the reply. 

I went back and forth on the positioning. In this pic you can see that the bow stop sat higher (prior to changing the bunks) so it worked the right way. I will probably install a bow eye just below where the bow stop will hit so that I can hook it properly. I was just rough fitting everything last night, but I guess I had a brain fart on the position.


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## wwoodard (Aug 10, 2011)

Is possible to raise your crank up, to make more level with the eye?


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## super_dork (Aug 10, 2011)

Not really about where the eye will go at this point. The front deck is solid, so I would have to cut it open in order to get in and add an eye there. As far as moving the wench up, I'm not sure. I really have a clearance issue with the handle hitting the front of the boat as I crank. This was the best position I could make work without having the fabricate something.


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## wihil (Aug 10, 2011)

I'd get rid of that non-load bearing carabiner you've got in between the boat and the winch. Those things are notorious for failing under even a small load. Would be fine for a bowline, but not for the winch.

Other than that, looks like a great job on the trailer!

C


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## super_dork (Aug 10, 2011)

> I'd get rid of that non-load bearing carabiner you've got in between the boat and the winch. Those things are notorious for failing under even a small load. Would be fine for a bowline, but not for the winch.



HAHAHA!! I knew someone would notice that. It turns out that the clip on the strap in the winch doesn't fit the boat handle so just for test purposes I grabbed the carabiner from my camera bag and threw it on there temporarily. I am certainly going to do something better there.


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## super_dork (Aug 10, 2011)

super_dork said:


> Not really about where the eye will go at this point. The front deck is solid, so I would have to cut it open in order to get in and add an eye there. As far as moving the wench up, I'm not sure. I really have a clearance issue with the handle hitting the front of the boat as I crank. This was the best position I could make work without having the fabricate something.




I just thought about this a bit more and I think that I may be able to add a bow eye and use the wings (nut piece) from a toggle bolt to make it cinch up tight. Anyone ever ran into this issue?


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## Brine (Aug 10, 2011)

I'd just cut an access hole in the side of the bow seat. Maybe 4"x8"??? It would also allow you to reinforce a bolt-on bow eye from the inside with a piece of aluminum plate etc. Might be a consideration if you're planning on weighing the boat down.

You could add another 2 x 4 to the bow stop to give you that much more clearance with the winch handle.


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## super_dork (Aug 11, 2011)

I made the suggested changes to the winch position. It worked better than I anticipated. I'm going to add a ring of some sort to the handle to be able to clip the winch on to. Some day I may add a bow eye, but for now the handle is pretty sturdy.

I proceeded to work on the front deck. My goal is to have a platform my wife can lay on, storage underneath and seat mount that I can use for a low seat for travel and a high seat to lean on for trolling.

After several iterations I ended up attaching a 2x2 to the bow seat then using it to support 2x2's that span the gap. Then I added more 2x2's as cross braces and used them to frame up the storage hatch. I decided to make a large hatch. I ended up adding a 2x4 under the center 2x2 to provide extra support when standing. I also added 2x2's under the hatch lid that rest on the frame underneath. It all seems pretty sturdy. No one over 200 lbs will be on the front.

My next step is to frame up the middle seat to support the seat mount. I think I will use a combo of toggle bolts and 2x6's to build up a sturdy base.

Let me know what you think.


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## super_dork (Aug 11, 2011)

This morning before work I went out to take a fresh look at things. I decided to see how the bow mount trolling motor would fit. It turns out that it will hit the edge of the hatch I cut out when it opens so I am going to have to rework the top corner of the opening to work better. Oh well, it's just wood.


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## super_dork (Aug 12, 2011)

Well I've been in the garage sweating it out in the Houston heat every night until midnight since Sunday. I have been able to get the Harbor Freight trailer assembled and 99% complete (still think I may add a front support on the trailer just before the bow curve). I have the front deck coming a long nicely. Still have lots to do but I'm really happy with the progress. 

I added the bow mount trolling motor support last night but found that it lays over the front hatch, so I'm either going to have to rework the hatch or deploy the motor each time I need to get in the hatch. I also can't decide on hinges. I've seen lots of talk about piano hinges but I really want it so the hinge is totally hidden Any thoughts?

Also, today I widened my back gate to let the 52" trailer make it into the back yard. This was a requirement from the wife so she can still park in the garage. Anyway, enjoy.


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## super_dork (Aug 15, 2011)

I'm almost done! I added the back seat deck with a battery hatch. Then I cut a hole in the seat for storage. Basically all I have left is carpet and electrical panel.

So, a few things.

1) I didn't even think about weight. the max weight is 455. I would guess about 340 lbs for me and a guest leaving only 115 lbs for motor, gear and deck. I would guess I'm going to be about 200 lbs over after deck (150), motor(50), gas(25), battery(50), and trolling motors(35) (all estimates). Any thoughts on this? Is it really a big deal?

2) any suggestions on a a simple electrical panel with breakers and switches

3) Carpet? What's the cheapest option? Should I glue then tuck the edges in tight aroung the edges or take the decks off, wrap and staple, then attach with screws through the carpet?


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## Ictalurus (Aug 15, 2011)

You'll have to figure if the weight is a big deal for you, but as far as carpet, I would take the decks off then wrap and staple. Good looking boat btw.


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## super_dork (Aug 15, 2011)

Thanks! I really hope she turns out nice. 

The wrap and staple is what I thought from day one but I've been waffling. I'll give that a shot. 
So, do you just slit the carpet, screw the deck down then glue it back over the screw holes? I just don't want a bunch of screws showing everywhere.

If it comes down to it, I can pull out the floors and maybe rework some of the seat supports and trolling motor mount.

I just ordered 6'x20' light grey from SportsMan's Guide for $109 https://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/lancer-enterprises-inc-marine-carpet.aspx?a=790775 as recommedned in the materials link page. I also ordered carpet glue. We'll see how it goes.

I also just ordered the electrical. I got 2 bus bars, 2 50 amp manual reset breakers and a switch panel from Amazon. They should be here Wednesday. 

Only 8 days in on this deal and almost ready to get wet! I just hope my wife doesn't decide to add up all the trips to the store. I've been splitting them between about 4 places so it's not as obvious


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## Ictalurus (Aug 15, 2011)

I just screw right through the carpet and into metal/wood/whatever. The screw head usually buries itself into the carpet and is not so noticable. I did notice though that once secured for the first time, if you unscrew and screw back in, the heads will show.


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## super_dork (Aug 17, 2011)

Last night I removed the front deck and rear floor to seal with Thompson's Water Seal. I left the framing in place but coated all exposed areas thoroughly. While I had it apart, I took a bit of time to rethink the framing to see about reducing the weight some. It was good to get a fresh look at it since my inital framing was more just to get everything to fit and be sturdy. This time, I focused on structure and was quite successful. I weighed each piece just to get an idea. For the front seat, I had used 2 2x6 treated boards running 3/4 of the seat width and another 3 treated 2x4's on top running the full width. Total, this was just over 30 lbs of lumber. I was able to reduce this a couple 2x2's and about 4' of 2x4 cut to create the base for the seat. For the back floor deck I was able to reduce from about 6 2x2's to 3 1x2's with the same amount of support. 

I am very happy with how it's turning out. Tonight I'll take some pics. I hope to remove the rear decking and take the same weight reduction approach and seal it all up. Then I have to cut carpet gaps for the hatches. I also should be getting in some electrical today so that should be in also.

I ordered carpet, but I'm in the process of trying to cancel the order. I found it cheaper at Home Depot, so as soon as I get notice that they have canceled, I'm going to get the Home Depot carpet. I am really hoping to have it all done by this weekend, but who knows.


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## Ictalurus (Aug 17, 2011)

Don't mean to be a wet blanket here, but you may want to rethink the use of treated wood in your boat. Going to non-treated wood will also reduce your weight, but will completely throw your schedule out of the window :wink:


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## super_dork (Aug 17, 2011)

Thanks for the input. As I originally was researching on the site, I thought I read that treated was the way to go, but have since realized that maybe that was a mistake. At this point I'm just going to lieave it and see how she floats. Worst case, I'll get on the water and it will sink like a rock and I'll have to wade.  Certainly the next time I will make some different choices.


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## Ictalurus (Aug 17, 2011)

super_dork said:


> At this point I'm just going to lieave it and see how she floats



I think you'll be just fine, by the time the treated wood starts eating at your boat you'll most likely have traded up for a larger one


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## super_dork (Aug 18, 2011)

I got my electrical parts and carpet in last night. I cut a hole in the battery hatch to mount the switch panel. Then I was able to get the carpet for the front and middle floor completed. Just have the back seat and hatches to cover tonight. I also reworked my trolling motor mount to make it removable and use less weight. It's a 2x2 mounted with 2 2x3's on either side mounted to the motor mount with bolts that go through all 3 boards. See the post here for more info - https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=21559


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## Sgt. Stiglitz (Aug 18, 2011)

That's funny, I just ordered that same switch pannel from Overton's Monday I think. It will be here today or tomorrow. How big is the hole for it?


https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=21376


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## super_dork (Aug 18, 2011)

Sgt. Stiglitz said:


> That's funny, I just ordered that same switch pannel from Overton's Monday I think. It will be here today or tomorrow. How big is the hole for it?
> 
> 
> https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=21376



It comes with a template that is about 3 1/2" square. I went with 3 1/4" square to start and it fit just fine. I wanted to have a little more lip on it to screw into.


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## wwoodard (Aug 18, 2011)

I am thinking about ordering the same panel, can you post a pic of the back of it?


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## super_dork (Aug 18, 2011)

I don't have one right now, but I will when I get home. I had the same issue. I couldn't find the back anywhere. Not sure if it helps, but in the Customer Images section below the picture on Amazon, they guy shows the back of the panel somewhat.
https://www.amazon.com/Seasense-Marine-Way-Switch-Panel/dp/B002VHWLP2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1313680233&sr=8-2

I'll get something tonight.


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## super_dork (Aug 19, 2011)

wwoodard said:


> I am thinking about ordering the same panel, can you post a pic of the back of it?



Here's the back of the 3 switch Seasense Switch Panel as requested:


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## super_dork (Aug 19, 2011)

So I was able to put in just about all the carpet last night. I am going to add panels with carpet to the front and back of the rear seat to give it a finished look. Then all that's left is the electrical and of course the maiden voyage. My sweet wife, who I built the deck for, looked at it this morning and said that it looked very legit and not ghetto at all. That made me happy.












Oh and I picked up a 25-31" pin seat post that I'm just going to put the front seat in when I'm trolling to lean against. Some day I'll get a pro seat.


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## wwoodard (Aug 19, 2011)

Thanks for posting the pic of the back of the switch panel. I hope you don't mind, but I have a couple of questions. Will the red wires with the in-line fuses now be connected to a bus bar, and will the wires that run to whatever is being powered also have an in-line fuse, or is that overkill? Thanks for your help.


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## super_dork (Aug 19, 2011)

wwoodard said:


> Thanks for posting the pic of the back of the switch panel. I hope you don't mind, but I have a couple of questions. Will the red wires with the in-line fuses now be connected to a bus bar, and will the wires that run to whatever is being powered also have an in-line fuse, or is that overkill? Thanks for your help.




I am actually in the process of posting a similar question int he Electrical section of the Forum. https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewforum.php?f=5. I am not quite sure how it's all going to go togehter. As far as the fuses go, I believe that the fuses on the switch panel are all that are required for the items going to the panel and the red wire will go to the bus bar. The 2 trolling motors won't be attached to the switch. They will have plugs with 50 AMP breakered fuses inline.


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## Sgt. Stiglitz (Aug 20, 2011)

> Thanks for posting the pic of the back of the switch panel. I hope you don't mind, but I have a couple of questions. Will the red wires with the in-line fuses now be connected to a bus bar, and will the wires that run to whatever is being powered also have an in-line fuse, or is that overkill? Thanks for your help.
> 
> 
> 
> I am actually in the process of posting a similar question int he Electrical section of the Forum. https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewforum.php?f=5. I am not quite sure how it's all going to go togehter. As far as the fuses go, I believe that the fuses on the switch panel are all that are required for the items going to the panel and the red wire will go to the bus bar. The 2 trolling motors won't be attached to the switch. They will have plugs with 50 AMP breakered fuses inline.


 
When you look at all those wires, it makes you scratch your head #-o, but it is easy if you just think about how the stuff needs to go. They supply a wiring Diagram.  
Yes, ALL red wires go to the Positive side of the battery, wire all of them together with the supplied wire nut along with another wire. This will go to the POSITIVE side of the Battery. You will attach one of your leads from the bilge pump or lights to the other end of the switches that don't have a wire on it. You will need wire ends. 
The other wire from say the lights or pump will go to the NEGATIVE side of the battery. You can use a bus bar if you want. I just have lights right now so I just wired them together, then connected them to the Negative side of the battery. The fuses in the red wires is plenty.

I actually bought the 5 position switch instead of the 3. You need at least two switches to run the marker lights. One for the front, one for the rear. My Sea Ray lights had two light switches, one for both the bow and stern together and a separate anchor switch light for the rear.
I might add a bilge pump later. My boat doesn't leak, only water that gets in it is from us getting in and out and with the dog and maybe a little spray if is choppy. I might add a stereo next to the switch pannel later. The cut out stencile is a little on the large side. I would cut the opening say 3/8-1/2 smaller if I had to do it again. I had to use larger screws to go all the way through the thick carpet and into the wood under it. Even then, two of the screws were just barely able to bite into the wood. Easy fix with epoxy. 

















https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=21376


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## super_dork (Aug 22, 2011)

This weekend I was able to finish up most of the remaining items. I ran out of electrical connectors, so I have to get some and redo some of the connections. I started removing the Alumacraft lettering with a heat gun so I can the name on the side, not sure on what I'm going to put yet though.

On Saturday morning, I took the wife out for a test run. We didn't have any issues and most things worked as expected. The boat is a little tippy in the front, which was expected. I wasn't a fan of the bow trolling motor though. I used a 24" pole seat while driving it, but it found that being that high wasn't very stable when changing direction and that the foot control was very erratic. Overall though, it was a success and the wife loved it! I wasn't too crazy about the position of the back seat, which is off center. I wasn't thinking when I added the battery to the same side as the seat offset, so it kinda leans, but it's not too bad.

When we got home, I found a remote control MotorGuide Lazer 370 RF bow mount motor on Craigslist for $75. When I told the guy I was coming from an hour away, he dropped the price to $50. It works great and I'll be able to drive sitting in the front of back without having the step on the pedal! So, now I get to sell the other bow and the transom mount motors! Getting a little money back!

Thanks to everyone for the advice and guidance. It really helped!


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## super_dork (Aug 23, 2011)

.....


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## topgun15v (Aug 25, 2011)

Hey man the boat looks good. Also glad to see a fellow Texan on here =). I have a baby on the way in Feb/March to, so congrats to ya! I am hoping to still get some Saturday morning early fishing in even with the baby. haha


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## super_dork (Sep 6, 2011)

Since I finished the build, I've taken the boat out several times and caught several decent bass. Last night I took the real Miss Peach (my wife) out on the water for an evening dinner cruise. We ended up trolling for a while. I was able to sit in the back and run the TM via remote while she laid on the front. It was just like I imagined it would be and worth all of the effot. I even tried my luck with a black worm (my go to bait this year). Only got one (about 1.5 lbs) but it exploded out of the water twice! My wife loved it and couldn't believe it. I just looked at her and said "Now do you get why I love this so much?" I think we have reached an understanding. 

Thanks to everyone for your help putting this boat together. I sure couldn't have done it without the help and inspiration!


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## Androsyn (Jan 19, 2016)

cool


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## Fishfreek (Jan 20, 2016)

Great job

Looks awesome


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## Hanr3 (Jan 20, 2016)

Nice job.


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## -CN- (Jan 21, 2016)

I really like the simplicity and the layout.
I did not extend the front deck of my 1442 NCS, but pictures of yours make me wish I had!


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## AllOutdoors (Jan 24, 2016)

Nice job.


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## Fire1386 (Jan 25, 2016)

Very nice indeed. Enjoy it....


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## super_dork (Jan 25, 2016)

Not sure why this thread got bumped back up - I've been done with Miss Peach for some a while now and had many successful outings on her - but here's an update. I just sold her late last summer for a more family friendly boat. Right after I finished working on her, we had our first baby, followed 2 years later by another. They are now almost 4 and 1.5 and I wanted to be able to take them out and fish without fear of being swamped of having them fall out. Here's the last picture I have before the new owner towed her away.




I ended up upgrading to a 19' Stratos 280 SF Fish and Ski with a Johnson 150. 




I got a great deal, but have spent the last few months rebuilding the transom (didn't know it needed one at the time of purchase) - learning how to do fiberglass and such along the way. It's been an incredible experience, and I'm just about done. Can't wait to get everyone back out on the water! Not sure if it's allowed, but here's the build thread on another board - since it's not a tinboat, I didn't think it belonged here:

https://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=652171


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## Bitemebaits (Jan 30, 2016)

Nice little jon you had there! How stable was it with the higher seat and deck. I've read mixed reviews on the 32" boats.


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## super_dork (Jan 30, 2016)

Bitemebaits said:


> Nice little jon you had there! How stable was it with the higher seat and deck. I've read mixed reviews on the 32" boats.




When I fished by myself, it wasn't bad, but with someone else on the boat it was very sketchy. I would never choose a 32" bottom again. I just made a point of being really careful where I went and who I brought with me.


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