# 1542 Grumman Side to Center Console Conversion



## bigredxlt (Apr 17, 2014)

Started making some progress on a complete overhaul of a 1994 Grumman Trophy 1542 mod-v jon my brother and I bought over the winter. When we bought it everything worked fine and was definitely functional, but we want to use it as fishing, hunting, and bow fishing boat on the shallow river in the backyard. First thing that had to go was all the wood and carpet and the blue paint job. Plans are to move the side console to the middle of the middle bench and make it a center console and aluminum decking in the front and the back. Paint color will be the parkers dead grass colored duck boat paint. Instead of carpeting we'll be using the dark gray factory seconds hydro turf in 6mm thickness with 1/4 of closed cell padding underneath to make it more comfortable. As of right now it is at the welder getting some beavertail pods welded on, an additional leg for the console, and a JB weld fix taken care of. Also going to apply gluvit to all the rivets and gator glide the bottom in mud brown. 

Other additions down the line:
Tempress hatches 
Ipod hook up stereo
Bilge pump
LED nag lights
accessory plug 
shotgun holders (along the side console)
Bow rack (front of console)
Offset pedestal mounts 

Here its when we first picked it up:





Merc 15 hp


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## bigredxlt (Apr 17, 2014)

More pictures of the tear down and paint stripping


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## bigredxlt (Apr 17, 2014)

I'm aware most will think the boat is too skinny for a center console. While you might be right, Im going to give it at shot. I think the grab bar on top of the console will make it possible to move around the console without falling or tipping the boat and that the float pods will help with stability. If not Ill just pop the rivets and move it to the side, but I don't think that will happen. I'm making it a center console to move the weight forward so it can run in the skinnier water and so I can see obstacles in the water ahead.


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## Rat (Apr 17, 2014)

42 might be a little skinny, but I know a guy who has one and it works okay; just make a skinny center console! :shock: Keep all the weight (batteries, fuel etc) as low as possible to help keep it from being top heavy.


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## huntinfool (Apr 17, 2014)

Trust Rat, he probably knows more about turning a boat over than any one I know. ;-)


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## bigredxlt (Apr 17, 2014)

Battery(s) will be going in compartments cut into the benches with tempress hatches. Gas tank will be on the floor right in front of the motor. Aside from the trolling motor and passengers everything else will be pretty lightweight. No wood decks or anything. Pedestal seats and posts will stay pretty low. I think its a 13" post and I wasn't planning on using them will under way.

Another problem I am running in to with the conversion is how to deal with the motor controls. They are configured for side console with the right side mounting on to that aluminum plate. With the center console conversion my only option would be to control the throttle with my left hand or fab up some bracket so it mounts up the right way. Another member here solved that problem by building a wood addition to his console, but I am trying to avoid adding width to the console and the use of wood. https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=28261&start=30

What do you think just use my left hand for the throttle controls or come up with another solution?


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## Rat (Apr 18, 2014)

No need for all that. I'll take a picture of mine and post it up for ya;it's pretty easy to convert, just not the best aesthetically.


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## Rat (Apr 18, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=349167#p349167 said:


> huntinfool » Today, 21:12[/url]"]Trust Rat, he probably knows more about turning a boat over than any one I know. ;-)



True, I have been in more than my fair share of wrong-side-up boats... :shock:


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## Rat (Apr 18, 2014)

You can see how it is laid out in this shot. The controller is mounted to an aluminum plate with the normal holes for the controller. There is a spacer in the back that is the same width as the controller; the aluminum plate is bolted through the spacer and into my console. 

Here is a quarter view from the pilots seat.






A top view that better shows the spacer.






And the side view that shows the bolts. The bolts on the far right go through the aluminum plate and the spacer into my console; the two on the left just hold the controller to the aluminum plate. 






Not very pretty, but it works great.


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## rscottp (Apr 18, 2014)

My floor is 44" and my CC is 18", there is enough space to get around it. Grab bar to hold onto is a good idea. Go for the CC!


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## Bigwrench (Apr 18, 2014)

I'm probably going to convert to the center console option also on mine. I have been tying to come up with a way to mount the controls also . Will definitely look forward to your build.


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## bigredxlt (Apr 18, 2014)

Thanks Rat, that definitely looks like it would work. You're not kidding that aint pretty haha. Only problem is that would add an inch or two to the side of the console. Im going to have a hard time make the console any skinnier because I don't want to chop it and the grab bar. I think I'm going to have over 7 inches of flat floor space to maneuver around the console plus however much I gain by moving it on top of the bench so its going to be pretty tight. I think 13-16 inches on either side.

So I guess I will figure out a way to repurpose the existing bracket and attach it to the console. Either that or I am going to cut in to the console and try to create a slot than I can mount the throttle controls in to. I'll be sure to keep you all posted when the boat gets back from the welders. 

By the way, when I dropped the boat off to get welded the guy quoted me $100 for mounting the pods, fixing a jb welded crack along one of the seams, and fabricating a matching leg for the console. Is it just me or does that seem way too cheap? I walked in there expecting to pay $300. Should I expect to pay more when I pick her up?


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## Rat (Apr 18, 2014)

I wouldn't expect to pay more; if he quoted you a price that should be the price. If the job is good you might consider a tip though. 8)


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## bigredxlt (Apr 18, 2014)

If it was a one man shop I would probably consider tipping but it looked like a big construction welding shop so I probably won't even have contact with the guy aactually doing the welding. I guess we'll see.


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## plugknocker (Apr 19, 2014)

I have a 1989 Grumman Renegade that I decided to update this winter.
One key update I did was to add a 2nd trolling motor battery so I have 2 12 volts in parallel, so far that is working very well.
Rather than replace the carpet I'm using a rubberized material in the boat floor and side areas, it called Tuff Coat. You may want to check into that for a coating versus carpet or just paint. Still used carpet on the decks. I know now that when this carpet needs replacing I will use the Tuff Coat material.
Checkout the site I created for the project I did.
The link is in my signature.

Enjoy the boat.


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## bigredxlt (Apr 26, 2014)

Picked the boat up from the welder's today. I feel like a got a great deal $135 out the door to fix the PO jb weld fix, fabricating a leg for the side console to make it a center console, and welding the pods on. Definitely aren't the prettiest welds, downright ugly in some spots but it will work and the paint will cover it up pretty well. 
















Also, I wasn't specific enough where I wanted the aluminum pipe welded on so he put them pretty low. I am going to have to come up with fix for that so I am not shooting twin rooster tails up in the back. I'm thinking I either put caps on the bottom with a little chain leash on them or just cutting them. 

The pipes will be used as a poor mans power pole shallow water anchor. Boat will mainly be used in shallow river so it will be nice not to have to use the trolling motor constantly. 

It looks like there will be enough space on either side of the console to move around. Especially once the grab bar is installed.


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## bigredxlt (Apr 26, 2014)

Whats left of the paint is being pretty stubborn in coming off. Anybody have an advice on how to get the remnants off?


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## bigredxlt (Jun 8, 2014)

Finally got most of the paint stripped off. Time for gator glide.


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## bigredxlt (Jun 8, 2014)

So as much as the gatorglide was advertised as going on really easily, I was pretty disappointed. I followed the directions precisely and the paint really did not want to stick at all. A half gallon later and four coats later, it at least looks like it covered the whole boat from a distance, but in reality it didn't there are still spots all over the place where the aluminum is showing through. I am not very happy considering how much that stuff cost and I had emailed gatorglide before I bought it and they assured me that a quart would be enough to cover the bottom of a 15 foot boat. Thankfully I ordered a half gallon. The stuff is crazy slick even if it didn't cover as well as advertised.


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## bigredxlt (Jun 8, 2014)

After the 4 coats.


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## bigredxlt (Jun 8, 2014)

So I definitely know how to resize photos and I have resized all of them to under 800 pixels in width but this site still will not let me upload the pictures. I guess I will just keep trying.


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## bigredxlt (Jun 8, 2014)




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## bigredxlt (Jun 8, 2014)




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## bigredxlt (Jun 8, 2014)

Took the boat to the welder again to have him cut some 1/8 inch sheet aluminum for the decking. Here it is mocked up.


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## bigredxlt (Jun 8, 2014)




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## bigredxlt (Jun 8, 2014)




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## bigredxlt (Jun 8, 2014)

Got started on some framing using 1 inch 1/8 thick aluminum angle and rivets. Its pretty impressive how sturdy it is with these rivets. Unfortunately the welder didn't have any of the sharp angle stuff as that probably would have been easier to work with, but the structural angle with the radius on the inside seems to be much less flimsy. As of right now framing is at a stand still because we ran out of angle and the welder said more won't be in for another few weeks. I might just order the remaining amount online so I can make some progress. 

Also put in some large 3 inch pvc pipes for rod storage. That little addition ended up being a little harder than expected but it worked out fine in the end.


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## bigredxlt (Jun 8, 2014)

Finally got the hatches in. That was probably the longest free "2-day shipping" from amazon I have ever experienced. Took them over a week. Ordered two for the front and one big on for the rear hatch with the gas tank. Here they are mocked up.


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## bigredxlt (Jun 8, 2014)




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## bigredxlt (Jun 8, 2014)

Also filled in all the rivet and screw holes of the PO with closed end rivets and 5200. You can see them sticking out in the pictures. Not the prettiest way to fix it but it works. They will end up getting covered with hydroturf and under padding.


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## Abraham (Jun 8, 2014)

I had the same problem with pictures not posting because of the size. Just keep hitting submit and they'll take. Pretty aggravating after a while lol. 

Was the boat still dirty when you applied the gator glide? The way the paint is fish eyeing makes it look like the surface is greasy or oily. Looks great other than that. I'm also considering gator glide for the bottom of mine but not if it's going to be a hassle.


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## smackdaddy53 (Jun 8, 2014)

Abraham said:


> I had the same problem with pictures not posting because of the size. Just keep hitting submit and they'll take. Pretty aggravating after a while lol.
> 
> Was the boat still dirty when you applied the gator glide? The way the paint is fish eyeing makes it look like the surface is greasy or oily. Looks great other than that. I'm also considering gator glide for the bottom of mine but not if it's going to be a hassle.


You did not clean the aluminum enough. You have to go down to bare aluminum, wipe with acetone and RIGHT AWAY prime it with Gator Base then go on with the G2 or G4.


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## smackdaddy53 (Jun 8, 2014)

Our boats are similar sizes and mine took 4 gallons plus a gallon of primer. Did you speak with the owner David Ward? He is a straight shooter and gaurantee he would not have claimed a quart would cover that much surface area. You have to account for the ribs and going up the sides too. You can still add coats now, light sand it, wipe with acetone and roll more on.


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## bigredxlt (Jun 8, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=355135#p355135 said:


> smackdaddy53 » 08 Jun 2014, 18:31[/url]"]Our boats are similar sizes and mine took 4 gallons plus a gallon of primer. Did you speak with the owner David Ward? He is a straight shooter and gaurantee he would not have claimed a quart would cover that much surface area. You have to account for the ribs and going up the sides too. You can still add coats now, light sand it, wipe with acetone and roll more on.



I emailed him right before posting the pictures and he has already emailed me back and called. I will be returning his call tomorrow. I can guarantee that I was told a quart would cover because I have the email. I was also told gator base was a good idea for added durabilty but not absolutely necessary. So I can assure you I am not lying. I can honestly say its a great product and it has worked out great for other people, but for some reason it didn't work for me.

I not only wire brushed the entire taped off area, but I sanded it with 120 grit thoroughly. Then I wiped the entire taped off area thoroughly with acetone and started painting it within 5 minutes. Like I said I followed the directions word by word.


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## bigredxlt (Jun 8, 2014)

Smackdaddy, I thought you had a 17 footer? Mines just a little 1542. Yours is much larger.


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## bigredxlt (Jun 8, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=355118#p355118 said:


> Abraham » 08 Jun 2014, 17:10[/url]"]I had the same problem with pictures not posting because of the size. Just keep hitting submit and they'll take. Pretty aggravating after a while lol.
> 
> Was the boat still dirty when you applied the gator glide? The way the paint is fish eyeing makes it look like the surface is greasy or oily. Looks great other than that. I'm also considering gator glide for the bottom of mine but not if it's going to be a hassle.



Everyone else I have talked to has had a great experience with GG so I would say go for it. Its a much better option than steel flex. Also David Ward from GG seems like a stand up guy so if something goes wrong Im pretty sure he will stand behind his product. He has already called me, left a message, and emailed me back on a Sunday.


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## smackdaddy53 (Jun 9, 2014)

bigredxlt said:


> [url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=355135#p355135 said:
> 
> 
> > smackdaddy53 » 08 Jun 2014, 18:31[/url]"]Our boats are similar sizes and mine took 4 gallons plus a gallon of primer. Did you speak with the owner David Ward? He is a straight shooter and gaurantee he would not have claimed a quart would cover that much surface area. You have to account for the ribs and going up the sides too. You can still add coats now, light sand it, wipe with acetone and roll more on.
> ...


I am not accusing you of anything BUT I can see in your photos as you are masking it off that there is still original paint on the hull. That paint holds impurities. Look at how my hull looks, not a single speck of paint on that hull, just bare aluminum. 
As far as the way I do things, if someone tells me to use a pound of screws to build a deck in my back yard I buy three and use all I can and put the rest away for back up. I have GatorGlide left over for touch up when I need it. I am not knocking you bud, just calling it like I see it. With aluminum preparation is absolutely imparative to the quality of the finish. My hull has over 5 coats on it. My Tuffcoat on the deck was quoted at 2 gallons and I bought 4 gallons and have about 1/3 of a gallon left over. I would rather have too much than not enough!
Get another 1/2 gallon and finish it, that is what I would do. I hope you are not mad at me, I am supporting a great product.


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## bigredxlt (Jun 9, 2014)

No worries, I'm not mad I just prefer not to be called a liar. I'm not sure where you are seeing paint in the masked off area but I did the wire brushing, taped of the area, then sanded to make sure I thoroughly prepped every inch that was going to be coated. (Edit I do see the paint youre referring to on the front). The product is advertised as being able to stick to old paint as long as it is sanded so I'm not sure where you got the impression that the aluminum must be bare, even though in my case it was bare. I agree with you that when you are recommended to get a certain amount it'smart to get more. I was told a quart would cover so I bought a half gallon. 

Like I said before, GG appears to be a great product that works for a whole lot of people. I would probably recommend it. In my case it didnt work out as well as I hoped so I called it as I saw it.


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## smackdaddy53 (Jun 12, 2014)

Hope you are going to keep the thread going. I did not intend on upsetting you.


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## huntinfool (Jun 12, 2014)

No one is calling you a liar, he was just saying he saw paint in the taped off area. He was offering advice to get the aluminum as clean as possible. Just a bit of non understanding via the internet. All is good y'all.

Now as for your project, I think it looks great. 
Personally I'd add a piece of aluminum to the front of the console to strengthen it up and to keep water from splashing in. Then you could add a shelf for storage. (JMHO)

Can you take a pic from above? I'd like to see the inside layout a bit better. 

I wish I was able to turn my boat over when I did my bottom, but it had gas in the tank and I was impatient. I was lucky and it turned out fair, but I wasn't using GG. However I may go back with it. Seems like it is much more durable. 

Keep the pics coming.


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## bigredxlt (Jun 17, 2014)

Front framing finally complete. Just need to frame in the rear hatch for the gas tank and bilge and all the framing is finally complete.


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## bigredxlt (Jun 17, 2014)




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## bigredxlt (Jul 10, 2014)

Finally made some decent progress. 

Got the boat painted, front deck cut, console cut and mounted up, steering and throttle/shift cable run. Finally got her on the water for a few runs. Ran well but the decking added a noticeable amount of weight. Also concerned that I have moved too much weight forward in the boat. The balance seems to be dead center of the boat as opposed to slightly back. The float pods in the back probably contribute to that. 

Bad news: Looks like I spun the prop pretty good. So I'm going to need a new one. Any suggestions?


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## bigredxlt (Jul 10, 2014)




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## bigredxlt (Jul 10, 2014)




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## bigredxlt (Jul 10, 2014)




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## bigredxlt (Jul 10, 2014)




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## bigredxlt (Jul 10, 2014)




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## bigredxlt (Jul 10, 2014)

make-shift boat ramp I dug in the river bank. Not pretty or easy to use but it works.


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## bigredxlt (Jul 10, 2014)

Finally on the water. 
















Spun prop hub....


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## bigredxlt (Jul 10, 2014)

One of the first fish caught on the boat.


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## bigredxlt (Jul 10, 2014)

The boat does seem to have a small leak somewhere. Either than or the drain plug was not tight enough. Guess I'm going to have to do a leak test before finishing the rear decking. 

Things left to do include: 
1) Rear deck 
2) Permanently install hatches
3) Try to figure out a better route for the steering and control cables (both seem a little stiff and I'm pretty sure it has to do with how I ran them)
4) Front plate for the console
5) lights (front nav lights, courtesy lights, and hatch lights)
6) wiring and install switches
7) bilge pump install (holding off until I can get the aluminum shards out of the boat from all the drilling and riveting)
8 ) Hydroturf and undermatting 
9) seat posts and bases (two up front and one on the rear deck/bench)
10) new prop
11) Stereo (probably going to go with the cheap pyle mp3 one on amazon for $60)


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## bigredxlt (Jul 10, 2014)

Another thing to note: 

The boat is much more stable than I expected. I am not sure if this is due to the beavertail pods welded on the back or that 42 inches across the bottom is make it that stable. I was able to fish standing on one of the rear pods without a problem. I definitely did not expect that level of stability. Also some people had some concern that there wouldn't be any space to move around the center console. I am happy to report thats not the case. Moving around the boat is extremely easy and I think moving the console to the center actually saved some space because the original configuration left some space between the front of the console and the middle bench that was essentially wasted. 

The layout of the boat is great. Probably going to end up with two seats on the front deck and on the rear deck to fish three people. The boat will probably be fished with 1 to 2 people most of the time.


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## starcraft12 (Aug 11, 2014)

Good job. It's stable, is functional & looks good!


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## huntinfool (Aug 20, 2014)

Lots of work to finish, but nothing like getting her wet. Congrats.


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