# New Guy, New Boat!



## buzzbarto (Jul 3, 2014)

Another new guy here. Been stalking the site for quite a while. Finally got a boat to mod. It's a 16' Alumacraft. Title says MV Tex 20" is the model. Somebody Cut the transom down to 17". And they didn't do a very neat job, but at least it's centered and reinforced. I'm looking to put a new floor in it, extend and reinforce the front deck and cover the rear and put a pedestal base back there for a fishing partner. Also would like a permanent livewell. Been toying with the idea of putting a side or center console vs. a tiller. It had a 25 hp merc but I was told the crankshaft splines are no longer there!


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## bthompson92 (Jul 3, 2014)

Sweet boat man, looking forward to seeing your progress!


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## buzzbarto (Jul 9, 2014)

Started removing the floor. The styrofoam is waterlogged. Didn't realize that could happen. The carpet came up easily. The plywood on the other hand is a different story. They used stainless self tappers, 6 per rib. Most of them held great. Having to slot quite a few with a dremel and use a big flat screwdriver to remove them. I will probably go with the pink foam insulation between the ribs like I've seen lots of guys on here do and aluminum for the floor. Topped with some type of truck bed liner roll on stuff. Any suggestions as to what thickness aluminum to use? I'm thinking about painting the boat a tan color or tan camo of some sort and the floor/decks a dark brown.


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## onthewater102 (Jul 9, 2014)

Is your floor flat? it looks to have a slight V to it. If you can back the foam up to the backside of the flooring you can get away with 1/16" aluminum, but if you're going to add framing to flatten out the floor (and end up with unsupported spans of flooring) you'd be better off with 1/8"


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## buzzbarto (Jul 9, 2014)

It's got a V to it. I'm going to make a subframe for a flat floor. Maybe high enough to run line for a live well up front. I think if I bring the floor up to the bottom of the side panels it should give me just enough space. And I want to cut out the front deck, leaving a couple inches all around to affix a new deck to. Getting rid of all the rotten Styrofoam and wood under it. I'll use aluminum angle to make a new frame for it. And the front deck wiil be extended back to where the side panels start. This will give me enough room for a live well at the rear, my pedestal base just ahead of that, thenstorage ahead of the pedestal and on each side.


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## buzzbarto (Jul 9, 2014)

What's the best way to cut aluminum angle? Do they have a compound sliding miter chopsaw? Lol


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## onthewater102 (Jul 9, 2014)

At the hours I'm free to work on the boat...hacksaw...too late for power tools. Though a jigsaw works nicely too.


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## bobberboy (Jul 9, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=358999#p358999 said:


> buzzbarto » Today, 19:05[/url]"]What's the best way to cut aluminum angle? Do they have a compound sliding miter chopsaw? Lol



You can cut nonferrous metals with a chop saw and a table saw. It's clean and precise and beats the alternatives. If you have a 10" blade, a 60 tooth triple chip blade would be best. Be absolutely certain to wear full-face protection and it's kind of loud so ear protection is good too.


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## buzzbarto (Jul 16, 2014)

I've got the aluminum angle ordered and should be here Monday. Any suggestions on rivets, bolts or screws to hold it all together? I'd love to weld it but that's out of the question for now. Nothing will go through the hull. I plan on riveting the aluminum floor down to the angle, but as far as the angle to angle connections, and angle to rib connections I'm wondering if rivets wouldn't be best. I'm starting on stripping the old paint off the trailer tonight. Then paint and new hardware.


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## onthewater102 (Jul 16, 2014)

I used aluminum rivets with a steel mandrel - it worked well for the framing, but on my trolling motor mount the rivets sheered off so I'm replacing them with stainless rivets.

I'd get 50 stainless rivets just to be safe and use one anywhere you'll have a sheer load bearing on the rivet.


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## buzzbarto (Jul 17, 2014)

Got all the stuff off the trailer. Need to strip some old paint then on with the new.


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## buzzbarto (Jul 17, 2014)

buzzbarto said:


> Got all the stuff off the trailer. Need to strip some old paint then on with the new.


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## buzzbarto (Jul 18, 2014)

Here's the pic I tried to load last night.


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## buzzbarto (Jul 18, 2014)

Another view.


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## buzzbarto (Jul 21, 2014)

What do you think about this to fab a livewell from

https://www.ruralking.com/agriculture/tractor-parts-accessories/spraying/tanks-accessories/ace-roto-mold-45-gallon-rectangle-utility-tank-sp0045-as.html

I'm going to mount it, or something similar, underneath the front deck extension and use a Cabelas custom hatch to access it. The pump and drain will be at the rear through the transom with an overflow through the side of the boat. Any thoughts?


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## ccm (Jul 21, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=360360#p360360 said:


> buzzbarto » 21 Jul 2014, 14:57[/url]"]What do you think about this to fab a livewell from
> 
> https://www.ruralking.com/agriculture/tractor-parts-accessories/spraying/tanks-accessories/ace-roto-mold-45-gallon-rectangle-utility-tank-sp0045-as.html
> 
> I'm going to mount it, or something similar, underneath the front deck extension and use a Cabelas custom hatch to access it. The pump and drain will be at the rear through the transom with an overflow through the side of the boat. Any thoughts?



It could work but there is a lot of extra fab work involved. You can buy a 100 - 150qt cooler for a similar at sometimes a lot less in price plus it's already insulated. I know that we bought our Igloo 150qt for $88 at wally world. It has a nice heavy duty lid with an access hatch on one side. It doesn't look like it would be to hard to turn into a nice livewell.


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## buzzbarto (Jul 22, 2014)

Got most of the trailer painted. Will do the tongue and fenders tonight then put it all back together when it dries. Then run new wire for the lights and the bolster brackets should be in Thursday. Need to get some bunk carpet and boards have new stainless hardware and staples. Hopefully I'll have it all back together this weekend and I'll start sanding the hull and get that repainted. Then I can put the boat back on the trailer and start the interior work. Bass tourney this Saturday so that may slow me down a bit. Caught this guy in last weeks tourney.


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## onthewater102 (Jul 22, 2014)

Fish of 1,000 casts - and a beauty at that.

As far as your tank idea - trying to work through a 5" opening is going to be a PITA, but if I understood you correctly you'd be hacking open the top and accessing it with a Cabela's hatch - so no biggie. As far as insulating it you could get the expanding marine urethane if it's going to be a permanent fixture.

My only other concern would be are the side / bottom surfaces flat or curved slightly? Getting a well sealed mounting for the drain and circulating pumps could be an issue.


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## onthewater102 (Jul 22, 2014)

For whatever it's worth I made mine from 1/8" PVC sheeting with 3/16" PVC 1" angle reinforcing the corners. Made insulating it with home-depot sheeting easy. Price worked out to be about the same as what you're looking at.


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## buzzbarto (Jul 22, 2014)

Yep, the top of the tank will be cut out somewhat. The sides and bottom are flat so fittings should seal well. Where did you get the PVC sheeting and angles? And how did you "weld" it together?


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## onthewater102 (Jul 22, 2014)

www.USPlastic.com

I glued the corners together with std. PVC cement like you would use on plumbing pipe (the sheets and angle are the same plastic as Sch. 40 pipe.) That's why I added the angle to the outside to reinforce - it gave me a shaped area to apply a generous amount of glue to be sure there were no leaks.

I glued several squares of scrap left over from making the box in a stack to the bottom to give me enough thickness to drill out with a spade bit, thread and glue in a threaded 3/4" threaded/barbed 90 deg. fitting to use a drain.

I haven't installed the tank yet - but when I do it will have 1/2" extruded polystyrene board cut to fit around it to support the relatively flexible sidewall material and insulate it at the same time. My plan is to cut down into the top of the rear bench seat, cut away the foam to make room, and attach flat aluminum to make ribs across the bottom of the bench seat to tie the front face to the rear and support the bottom of the livewell (probably a strap every 8" or so). I will bore through the rearward facing side of the bench to install the overflow and aerator fittings. I'm keeping it simple - I'll pump in fresh water at one end of the tank and let it spill out the overflow at the other and drain out the back of the boat so there's new water cycling through constantly. Should help with the temperature regulation too.


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## Timtactical (Jul 22, 2014)

https://tempress.com/

I just received my live well insert and slam lid the other day, I am very impressed with the thickness of the live well. They market them and dry/wet storage and If you use their lid it is the exact shape and seals tight. I think I spent about $150 not including the pumps and fittings. I am going to mount it in the middle seat of my jon.

Check it: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=35122


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## onthewater102 (Jul 22, 2014)

Yup - I've got a 1323 cam lid for my front compartment, a pair of 1115's for either end of the livewell, and i just ordered a 1330 for the battery compartment I never planned on making (need to hide 2 deep cycle batteries that will power the 24v motor in the middle bench)

I can't say enough about how great they are. They aren't kidding when they say they're made for the high-traffic areas. Walking on the 1323 the thing doesn't flex. I have to wait for the aluminum tubing to come in that will sit atop the livewell and form the support for the rear seat mounts - then it's back to sawing, riveting, painting and swearing.

Till then I'm trying to find time to go fishing.


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## buzzbarto (Jul 23, 2014)

I like that hatch. Wonder how well it would take that Krylon paint for plastic?


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## onthewater102 (Jul 23, 2014)

I couldn't tell you - I ordered them in white not intending for them to be the same color as everything else.


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## Timtactical (Jul 23, 2014)

With my gunmetal grey carpet, I ordered the grey lid. Its not exact but it has a good contrast to it.


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## buzzbarto (Jul 23, 2014)

The inside of my boat is going to be either dark tan or light brown. Either way, white or grey may clash a bit.


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## onthewater102 (Jul 23, 2014)

Depending on the size you need they do make an Ivory - that would go with more of an earth tone interior


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## buzzbarto (Jul 23, 2014)

I read on another forum that a guy used this spraypaint, Krylon Fusion, and it works great on tempress boat hatches. Guess I'll give it a try. I plan on using a tintable truck bed liner on the floor and deck so I may just cover the hatches with that also. Would probably be able to use the Krylon Fusion like a primer for the truck bed liner as it bonds with the plastic.


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## onthewater102 (Jul 23, 2014)

There must be a Krylon Fusion primer


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## buzzbarto (Jul 23, 2014)

After doing some research, the 1330 cam or slam hatch is what I'll probably go with. The liner is too small for a livewell for me though so I'll probably use the tank I mentioned before. I need something at least 30 gallons, and would prefer around 40. I will probably cut the top of the tank out to match the hatch, and put a reinforcement strip of aluminum flat strap around the inside of the tank. So the layers will be hatch, deck, silicone, tank lip, aluminum strip. Then use a small stainless bolt/lock nut or aluminum rivet to sandwich it all together.


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## onthewater102 (Jul 23, 2014)

I found one the other day for less than $80 on amazon


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## buzzbarto (Jul 23, 2014)

With Free Shipping!!


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## onthewater102 (Jul 23, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=360635#p360635 said:


> buzzbarto » 23 Jul 2014, 12:49[/url]"]... The liner is too small for a livewell for me though so I'll probably use the tank I mentioned before. I need something at least 30 gallons, and would prefer around 40...



That was my opposition to the liner too - it would work great for bait or even keeping a catch of crappie/perch fresh, but anything bigger than that isn't going to be able to turn around.


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## buzzbarto (Jul 23, 2014)

With six 15+ inch bass in the livewell 25 or 30 would be bare minimum I'd think. And the pump would probably need to run constantly in warmer weather.


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## buzzbarto (Jul 29, 2014)

I'm getting ready to paint the hull. Is it really necessary to take it down to bare metal? Over the entire boat? I've done some sanding, and used that aircraft remover stuff in places.The aircraft remover doesn't seem to work too well on this paint. Worked great on the trailer. Can I just use the etching primer on the spots I needed to take to bare metal then lightly sand the paint that is still stuck on really, and I mean really, good?


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## davids.reef (Jul 30, 2014)

buzzbarto said:


> I'm getting ready to paint the hull. Is it really necessary to take it down to bare metal? Over the entire boat? I've done some sanding, and used that aircraft remover stuff in places.The aircraft remover doesn't seem to work too well on this paint. Worked great on the trailer. Can I just use the etching primer on the spots I needed to take to bare metal then lightly sand the paint that is still stuck on really, and I mean really, good?


No you don't need it down to bare metal,just need to scratch the old paint up basically, What you did is fine and is ready to paint after dust and all that is cleaned up.


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## onthewater102 (Jul 30, 2014)

Yeah - as long as you don't have any rough edges to the old paint you'll be fine. Be sure to clean it well with something that will get up any oil residue on the old paint.


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## buzzbarto (Jul 30, 2014)

Awesome, thanks.


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## buzzbarto (Aug 14, 2014)

Got the trailer mostly done. Still need to cover the side bunks and put on the new winch.


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## buzzbarto (Aug 14, 2014)

Got the hull mostly painted. Put on another coat after this pic and still need to do a final. Not sure yet if I'm going to make it camo or not. I don't duck hunt so it's really not needed. But it does look neat and may hide some future scratches.


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## Ail (Aug 14, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=363292#p363292 said:


> buzzbarto » 14 Aug 2014, 09:07[/url]"]Got the hull mostly painted. Put on another coat after this pic and still need to do a final. Not sure yet if I'm going to make it camo or not. I don't duck hunt so it's really not needed. But it does look neat and may hide some future scratches.



Fish can see too! Camo is good for any game boat.


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## buzzbarto (Aug 14, 2014)

Fish can see too! Camo is good for any game boat.[/quote]


Yeah, that was my thought on it also. And if I ever do take up duck hunting I've got the boat for it.


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## buzzbarto (Aug 28, 2014)

Started the camo job, but ran out of time and paint. Might get the chance to finish it up over this weekend and get it back on the trailer.


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## buzzbarto (Sep 19, 2014)

Got some of the framing cut and in place. Still need quite a few pieces on the front deck and supports for the floor. I've riveted some of it in place for now. There's a fella in the shop where I work that welds aluminum and he's going to put some welds in places I can't rivet or need some strength. I'll be running a couple 2" pvc pipes under the floor to run electrical and plumbing for the livewell through. Then the pink insulation stuff up to the floor.

I'll probably go with 1/2 ply coated with the fiberglass resin vs. aluminum. Then tan truck bed liner to top it all off.


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## buzzbarto (Oct 25, 2014)

Got a bit more done last weekend. Hope in to get the live well plumbed and the floor in this weekend.


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## buzzbarto (Oct 30, 2014)

That black thing under the front deck is the 40 gallon livewell. Will probably only be around 30 when full though.


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## buzzbarto (Nov 10, 2014)

I'm getting ready to purchase the fittings for the livewell. I will have a 90 degree drain in the bottom of the tank and run the hose to the transom with a straight thru hull, through the hull. Overflow out the side near the top of the tank and run to the rear. Is there any reason I can't Y the overflow into the drain hose rather than running two seperate hoses to the rear?


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## buzzbarto (Dec 12, 2014)

Things have slowed down a bit with hunting season. Now I can get back on the boat modifications/upgrades. Just ordered the fittings and hoses for the livewell feed, overflow and recirq. Also got a switch panel for everything. Next will be pumps/bilge, running lights and hatch for the livewell.


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## buzzbarto (Jan 6, 2015)

The hoses and fittings for the livewell and bilge came in a couple weeks ago. Got a pre-made quick-lok package for a Lowe boat (I think) from great Lakes skipper. Today the aluminum hatches from cabelas came in. Got two medium sized lids. One for the livewell and one for the rear storage. May order a couple more now that I see the quality. Definitely worth it. Will be getting locking latches to replace the standard pull latches on all but the livewell. May try to find a slam latch for that one.


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## thill (Jan 8, 2015)

Nice post. Keep up the good work!


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## huntinfool (Jan 8, 2015)

Looking good


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## fool4fish1226 (Jan 8, 2015)

Coming along nicely :beer:


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## buzzbarto (Jan 8, 2015)

Hoping to get back in the shop as soon as these sub-zero temps stop. I'll get more pics up as soon as I can. Really need to get a heater for the garage! I was going to do Tuff Coat but am now leaning toward carpet. Need to make up my mind soon!


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## buzzbarto (Mar 16, 2015)

Finally got some good weather to work on the boat. Got all the plywood cut and fit for the decks and floor. Got the livewell fittings installed in the livewell and the the overflow in the transom. Got the bilge outlet installed. Received the new livewell pump and bilge pump today. Might get those in tonight. Still need to order a few seat bases and a bow light. Still on the fence about carpet or Tuff Coat. Need to make a decision soon. I'll post some pics later.


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## buzzbarto (Mar 16, 2015)




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## buzzbarto (Mar 16, 2015)




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## buzzbarto (Mar 22, 2015)

Got the hole for the switch panel cut.


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## buzzbarto (Mar 22, 2015)

Livewell and power lines are ran so I can finally get the floor installed.


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## buzzbarto (Mar 22, 2015)

Livewell lights installed.


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## Y_J (Mar 22, 2015)

buzzbarto said:


> Got the hole for the switch panel cut.


If you don't mind me asking what brand of switch panel is that? Where you get it? and How much did it cost?
I like that and would like to put it on my Dash Panel.
Thanks.
Herb


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## buzzbarto (Mar 24, 2015)

https://greatlakesskipper.com/catalogsearch/result/?order=relevance&dir=desc&q=switch+panel+lund&x=-890&y=-105

Here's a link where I got it. This one was 100 buck, shipping is kinda high if you get just one item, but I ordered a bunch of stuff including all the hoses and most of the fitting for the livewell.


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