# Smoker Craft 1648 mod



## RebelRob (Jun 4, 2016)

Hi all. Long time reader, first time posting...

I recently bought a 16' Smoker craft off CL model #72169F. I think this makes it a 1972? Not sure about the rest of the # so if anyone can fill in the blank I'd appreciate it. Over all it is in great condition. But like all older boats the transom is trash. I worked on it most of the day today and managed to get the old wood out. All but a couple of the bolts were rusted to the point they snapped with the slightest pressure. Had to rig a hoist to pull the rotted transom out. It snapped in two halfway out. I'll upload some pics as soon as I can transfer them.

UPDATE: After many, many searches on Google, I finally determined that this is a 1972 Smoker Craft Vega Tri Hull.


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## Ictalurus (Jun 6, 2016)

Nice, love the old v-hulls.


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## RebelRob (Jun 6, 2016)

So this is my plan... I'm going to leave the bow seat where it is and just frame over it. the 2nd seat from the bow I will completely remove. The 3rd seat I'm going to cut the middle out for walking space. I haven't decided what to do with the stern seat yet. Thinking of just slapping a slider seat there since it will be a tiller motor. My plan is to weld an aluminum frame out of 1" angle and place 1/2" plywood for the decking with carpet. I'm also working on my wiring diagram(below). I would like to put the TM battery toward the bow for a shorter cable run but not sure if that's such a good idea.


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## RebelRob (Jun 6, 2016)

Question...the plywood I removed from the transom was exactly 1" thick. If I double up a piece of 15/32" will that work fine or will that 1/8" cause a problem?


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## RebelRob (Jul 8, 2016)

So, I've installed the new transom. I used 1/2" exterior plywood and doubled it up. I used marine spar varnish to seal it. 3 coats applied over 4 days. Replaced all bolts and screws with stainless steel and sealed them with 5200. I also pressure washed the inside to remove some old glue in the bottom that I think was holding the old flotation in. I've covered the boat until I get the trailer ready. I picked up a 20'+ shorelander trailer off CL a few years ago for free thats been sitting in the back yard. The trailer I got with the boat is too short so this shorelander should fit it well. My plan is to sand and paint the trailer with herculiner(I really liked how Brine's trailer turned out with the herculiner), replace the bearings and fab some bunk brackets. Then rewire the whole thing. I pulled the wheels off today and noticed the entire inside of the wheel and spindle were covered in grease. After about 3 hours, a putty knife, wire brush, dawn dishwashing soap, and a LOT of elbow grease I was able to get the wheels clean. I'll prime them tomorrow and start on the sanding/wire brushing of the frame. I also pulled the bearings off the left side. Some damage on the inner bearing and racer but the outer looked good. Going to pull the right side tomorrow.


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## dootech (Jul 10, 2016)

The trailer looks perfect for that boat


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## dootech (Jul 10, 2016)

The trailer looks perfect for that boat


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## RebelRob (Jul 10, 2016)

Thats what I'm thinking. All the measurements look just right. I was wondering what everyone thought about leaving the rollers on the back? Should I leave them or go with straight bunks?


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## dootech (Jul 11, 2016)

I say leave the rollers, easier to slid the boat off at a shallow launch


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## water bouy (Jul 13, 2016)

That'll be a nice boat. I like the splashwell. If I take the plunge on a local v hull I may add one if it's not too involved. I know a couple of guys who bend sheet metal for heating contractors.


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## onthewater102 (Jul 13, 2016)

I'd drop the rollers in the back - that's where the majority of the weight is & you're apt to have dimples form over time.


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## grumpybear (Jul 14, 2016)

If you remove the middle how are you going to support the sides of the boat there? the seats have foam in them for floatation .Are you going to put foam under the floor to replace when removing the seat.


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## RebelRob (Jul 14, 2016)

Thanks for the reply regarding the trailer. I'm starting a topic under trailers. Have some ideas but need input. 

Grumpybear,
I'm going to tie the existing brackets on the seats into the new casting deck and the compartments along the sides. This should provide me with the same level of support. I'm going to fill the voids under the casting deck with foam. Not sure if im going to use expanding foam or noodles yet. That will depend on cash flow. I will also have foam under the flooring for flotation and sound deadening. I'm having trouble locating a good price on aluminum sheets so I may end up using exterior plywood. That will add a bit more floatation


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## RebelRob (Aug 18, 2016)

Quick update: I've finished the trailer and have moved the boat over onto it. I ended up having to remove the rollers in the back. The hull didn't line up like I wanted it to. So I moved on to plan B which was straight 9' bunks. I covered them with vinyl gutters. Boat looks good on there if I do say so myself. Because of the way the boat was sitting
on the smaller trailer I never tested for leaks. Good news is I did that today...Bad news, well there isn't any! [emoji38] she was bone dry underneath with the exception of condensation from the cold well water.


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## RebelRob (Aug 25, 2016)

Just got my quote for angle and tubing. 

1x1x1/8 x 25' aluminum angle - $23.75 each (X5)
1x.125 x 21' aluminum square tubing - $29.07 (X2)

Now I just have to figure out how to fit 25' of aluminum in a 6' truck bed... #-o


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## DaleH (Aug 25, 2016)

RebelRob said:


> Now I just have to figure out how to fit 25' of aluminum in a 6' truck bed... #-o


... that would be a hacksaw ... #-o


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## RebelRob (Aug 26, 2016)

Anyone know what this is? There are 4 of them, 3 spaced out down the port side and 1 towards the bow on the starboard side. 






Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk


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## DaleH (Aug 26, 2016)

Those are clips to hold a piece of flexible wood (batten) or plastic to support a boat cover. Usually there would be a corresponding clip on the other side, but maybe the previous owner made up some kind of custom gizmo that secured the other side. 

The pieces would be flexed to insert and are much longer than the span they cover, so that there is a natural upward bend. Usually the bend is a pretty good one, like a foot higher than the level where the mounts are. The bend is to keep the cover tight and help shed rain.


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## RebelRob (Aug 27, 2016)

Thanks DaleH. I would have never guessed that.

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## lvhish486 (Sep 22, 2016)

I have those on my boat and was wondering the same thing!


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## RStewart (Sep 28, 2016)

Nice boat you have there. 

The foam is not for flotation. It's only there to support the boat incase it were to get swamped. Removing the foam will have no effect on the boat floating.


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## RebelRob (May 27, 2017)

Just want to give a quick update. After a long winter and a wet spring here, I really haven't been able to do much with the boat. I did pick up an old 1955 Evinrude 15hp. It doesn't run so I've got some work to do on it. I'll post that progress under a different thread. I probably wont get the boat done this summer but if I get that motor running at least I'll be able to take her out fishing and play around with the front deck layout.


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## RebelRob (Jun 2, 2018)

wow, the last year really flew by. Haven't worked on the boat until just recently. Guess you could say I've had "analysis paralysis" in trying to figure out the boat layout and not wanting to waste a bunch of aluminum. Finally, last week I said what the heck, make it out of wood until I get the layout and structure I want. Once I get everything just right then I can go back and make it permanent. So I started with the space between the two middle seats making a frame from a ripped down 2x4. Then I cut a sheet of 3/4" exterior plywood to fit. It was exactly 48" from the back of the rear bench to the front of the forward bench so I cut 3" off it to allow the second sheet to be supported on the bench. I also cut a piece to use as the floor in front of the rear seat that was covered in 2 coats of spar varnish. I then cut out the hatches. Once that was in place I started on the space just behind the front bench. This time I used full 2x4's cutting out a notch so they snugged up under the bench but were even with the top. I used a kreg jig to connect the cross members. I stopped here since I was out of plywood and wasn't sure of my spacing for the seat base. 

In addition, a guy I work with had a 40lb thrust Minn Kota power drive bow mount trolling motor that he couldn't get to turn left. He said the foot pedal was bad and would sell it to me for $40. Of course I jumped all over it. Brought it home, pulled the pedal apart and it was full of dirt and sand. I spent maybe 15 minutes cleaning it out real good and lubed it up with some dielectric grease...Let's just say I haven't broke the news to him yet :lol:


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