# Round II: Quachita 14ft jon



## Nick Jones (Oct 27, 2009)

I sold my last mod before the summer started. 
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7167

I got this boat and rigged it up to get me through the summer. Since I am in the woods most weekends now it is time to start this project. I have an idea of the direction I want to go but all, and i do mean all, suggestion are welcome.

So far I have replaced the hubs/bearings and switch out the 8'' tires for new 12'' tires. last night I took everything out of the boat and ripped out the flooring.

If you will notice in one of the photos I have two screws going through the bottom of the hull. I would appreciate suggestions for replacing these screws before I steel flex the bottom. (Do I need to post this question in a separate post?)


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## Nick Jones (Oct 27, 2009)

more pics


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## danmyersmn (Oct 27, 2009)

Those two screws look rusty? Plain steel? Either way I would pull them out and replace them with solid rivets. They will likely come back to haunt you if you don't.


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## russ010 (Oct 27, 2009)

Keep everything in this post - questions and all!

As far as those screws... if you can rivet them fine. But if it were me, if you're going to put a floor back over them, I wouldn't screw with them. Paint the bottom with the steelflex, and I'd even hit that part of the floor with the steelflex too when you flip it back over.


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## Nick Jones (Oct 27, 2009)

russ010 said:


> Keep everything in this post - questions and all!
> 
> As far as those screws... if you can rivet them fine. But if it were me, if you're going to put a floor back over them, I wouldn't screw with them. Paint the bottom with the steelflex, and I'd even hit that part of the floor with the steelflex too when you flip it back over.



I want to replace them so do you think if I choose not to go with solid rivets i could use stainless steel bolt/screws? I am kinda ocd about that kind of stuff.


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## danmyersmn (Oct 27, 2009)

you can use stainless. Others have done so.


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## Nick Jones (Oct 27, 2009)

danmyersmn said:


> you can use stainless. Others have done so.



just a quick question, how do you do solid rivets? i have used pop rivets but i thought you had to have an expensive gun to do solid rivets.


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## Nick Jones (Oct 29, 2009)

Got the boat pulled off of the trailer and the majority of the trailer stripped down for sanding.

Funny thing though, I am glad I didn’t go far after putting on my new tires. I took my fenders off while I replaced the bearings and tires and didn’t even think to put them back on. Well I have a homemade trailer apparently because the bolts that held my fenders on also held my axel on. I picked up the back of the trailer after I pulled the boat off and to my surprise tires stayed on the ground. That was a close one


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## russ010 (Oct 29, 2009)

someone just did a post on here about solid rivets... you just need a small sledge and a regular hammer. That would be the best solution. Bolts hanging on the bottom of your boat will eventually snag something and you don't want that kinda damage to deal with


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## Nick Jones (Oct 29, 2009)

russ010 said:


> someone just did a post on here about solid rivets... you just need a small sledge and a regular hammer. That would be the best solution. Bolts hanging on the bottom of your boat will eventually snag something and you don't want that kinda damage to deal with



thanks man! yeah i have done my research and decide to go with rivets. I am going to use a air hammer with a rivet driver attachment. it isn't suggested to use on airplanes because it may dent the aluminum. don't think i am too worried about that.


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## Nick Jones (Nov 2, 2009)

more pics


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## Nick Jones (Nov 2, 2009)

pics


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## russ010 (Nov 2, 2009)

looks good man... just make sure that you go with some good self-etching primer and you're on your way... that is going ot be a sweet ride!


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## gunny146 (Nov 2, 2009)

You mentioned the trailer issue. My father and I had a 16 foot Quachita fiberglass boat on the factory trailer. We did the same thing, took the fenders off, and found the fender boats also held the axle to the trailer. W were not as luck as you; however, we discovered the issue several miles away from the house after we hit a stiff bump and noticed the trailer and boat were tracking one lane over.


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## Okielawman28 (Nov 2, 2009)

So what is going on with the plastic wrap???



Chris


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## Nick Jones (Nov 2, 2009)

Okielawman28 said:


> So what is going on with the plastic wrap???
> 
> 
> 
> Chris



I thought it was crazy too but decided to try it. It is real simple, it keeps the vapors from escaping which keeps the stripper from drying which allows it to penetrate all layers of paint which allows you to scrap it right off. Wow hope you understood that


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## Nick Jones (Nov 2, 2009)

russ010 said:


> looks good man... just make sure that you go with some good self-etching primer and you're on your way... that is going ot be a sweet ride!




thanks man! i have some pretty cool ideas so be ready to answer some questions. Check out this diamond plate I got for $100, it is 12x3 and is the thickest you can get. I am going to put it in the floor of the boat.


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## Nick Jones (Nov 5, 2009)

What is a good primer for a trailer? Do I need to prime it? When i redid my other boat i remember a few people stating that the primer on a trailer was really important. Is that true? I dont want to spend a whole lot on the trailer but since i am redoing the boat it would be dumb not to get the rust off and give it a new paint job. The cheaper the better.


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## Nick Jones (Nov 5, 2009)

here is the screw that i pulled out and the rivet i am going ot replace it with. i couldnt find any larger rivets but i assume that they will fill the holes.


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## russ010 (Nov 5, 2009)

You can use regular ol' Rustoleum primer... I brushed mine on my last trailer and it worked like a champ - and I put it on thick-n-heavy.. I sanded the trailer as best I could with a wire brush to get all the flaking stuff and rust, then wiped it down with acetone and primed.

that rivet you got should expand enough to cover your hole


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## Hydrilla (Nov 5, 2009)

Nice build, keep up the good work!

(Yeah this is my 'subscribe to your thread' post, lol)


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## Nick Jones (Nov 9, 2009)

got the two rivets replaced, bucked a few more, stripped the bottom of the boat and stripped almost all of the trailer.

I had to take a dremel and cut the rivets down. they fit in the hole perfect but were a little too long. We also did it backwards from the way you're supposed to. They are working great though


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## Nick Jones (Nov 9, 2009)

more pics.... didn't know i had a tilt trailer until i flipped it over. lol


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## bandgeek1263 (Nov 9, 2009)

Careful of the added weight of the diamond plating.


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## Nick Jones (Nov 9, 2009)

bandgeek1263 said:


> Careful of the added weight of the diamond plating.



I am going with aluminum diamond plate instead of steel. That makes a big weight difference. To tell you the truth, I think the wood I used in my last mod was heavier. Also, the sides of my boat are filled with spray-n-styrofoam and depending on my budget I may put styrofoam in the bottom too.

Thanks for the advice


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## bandgeek1263 (Nov 9, 2009)

Are you talking about the foam used for sealing cracks for insulation? "Great Stuff" I think its called. I am only concerned about this because it may not be closed cell, and may soak up water.


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## Nick Jones (Nov 9, 2009)

bandgeek1263 said:


> Are you talking about the foam used for sealing cracks for insulation? "Great Stuff" I think its called. I am only concerned about this because it may not be closed cell, and may soak up water.




I have no idea! The boat was manufactured that way.


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## Nick Jones (Nov 12, 2009)

Wife just called and said the UPS man just dropped off the SteelFlex. All tips and advice are welcome.


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## RBuffordTJ (Nov 12, 2009)

You can see mine in process if you want, I had a helper and a camera woman too. I put in some tips I found helpful.

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=9912&start=10

Enjoy.


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## Hydrilla (Nov 13, 2009)

Glad to see you are doing it right. The trailer and rivets look great.


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## Nick Jones (Nov 14, 2009)

I have got the outside of the boat stripped, acetoned, primed(self-etched) and once it reaches 70 degrees today i am going to steelflex it.

Here are some pics of the things i have used. 

i also found a paint gun that runs on low psi for $25. the shipping was free too. i had to buy it to spray down my trailer. come on i had to or thats what i told my wife. lol

also, i have some small holes in my boat that i can't filll with rivets because of where they are. Do you guys think alumiweld will do the trick,

one last thing, the primer says it is gray but it is really a great looking green.


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## Nick Jones (Nov 14, 2009)

more pics


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## Nussy (Nov 14, 2009)

Nick Jones said:


> more pics



Good Luck on the Steelflexing. One thing I forgot to mention was to mix all the pigment with the hardener, rather than trying to add it to each batch. I'm guessing you probably thought of that anyway.....


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## Nick Jones (Nov 14, 2009)

Nussy said:


> Nick Jones said:
> 
> 
> > more pics
> ...




yeah, i read your do's and don'ts a few times. Between you a Bufford i think i got it. That stuff is a chore though. i will explain in my next post.


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## Nick Jones (Nov 14, 2009)

Got a few more pics of the boat primed and steelflexed. 

I primed the boat without tapping it because when I paint the boat I don’t want a line between the steelflex and the primer.

The steelflex will wear you out. It is like tar! I have to say that mine looks great! I did it in 70-76 degrees. The only thing that I didn’t expect is that it took over 5 hours for the first coat to dry or not be sticky. I purchased the cheaper version so maybe that is why it dried slower. I mixed 1 quart at a time. It was mixed half and half. I mixed the color with the Neutral/Hardener before mixing the two containers. I intend to do the second coat tomorrow after church


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## Nick Jones (Nov 14, 2009)

pics of steelflex that would not dry!


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## Nick Jones (Nov 14, 2009)

steelflex dried, waiting on second coat!


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## Hydrilla (Nov 15, 2009)

Man, that looks great!!


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## Waterwings (Nov 15, 2009)

Lookin' good! 8)


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## Nick Jones (Nov 19, 2009)

This is really hard to explain but bare with me and PLEASE HELP!

ok i have question about small holes that are penetrating the sides of the boat! these are on the top part of the sides. the bottom half of the sides have been steelflexed so those have been fixed. 

The holes are very small but water can get in. I dont want to use rivets because it would look horrible. after talking with Dan I really dont want to deal with or have the stuff laying around to use alumiweld.

This what i am thinking! i want to use something like JB Weld but i assume there is something better.

What i want:
something that will harden
something that can be sanded
something that can be painted over

All of these small holes are above the water line but i want to fix them so i don't get a drop of water in the boat. 

Would 3m 5200 work? These are very small holes

also, i want to say thanks to danmyersmn for all of the help.


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## danmyersmn (Nov 20, 2009)

I think JB weld is going to end up being the best solution for you. Anything else is either going to be noticeable (dozens of pop rivets) or not usable (blind rivets) or have a equipment investment/learning curve and start your foam on fire :mrgreen: [-X (alumiweld) JB Weld should adhere well especially if you can get it squeezed into the hole and it can sort of mushroom out in the backside against the foam. Sort of like a "liquid rivet" 

If nothing else pick up one of the small JB Weld kits and try it on a hole or two then you can sand it down and pick at it and see if it holds up enough for your likes.

I used it to skim coat over a few alumiwelds I did and it stuck nice and tight to the metal. I had the metal very rough sanded and smoothed it out while I was sanding down the JB Weld skim coat. I don't think 5200 is going to stick any better then the JB Weld and I have read others saying the paint doesn't stick well. Gluv-it might be an option too but you will need to get the boat tipped on its side to keep it in place.

https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/198423-bottom-paint-over-3m-5200-a.html


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## Nussy (Nov 22, 2009)

Awhile back I saw a post by someone that used this stuff called HTS2000. I thought the video made it look pretty easy. You might consider that. [googlevideo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N-cv3R4fWZc[/googlevideo]

Just curious how'd the second coat of Steelflex go? Looks like it turned out pretty well.


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## ominousone (Nov 22, 2009)

Is there any problem with steelflexing the whole bottom? That was my plan to make sure that I got every possible tiny little hole sealed...


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## danmyersmn (Nov 23, 2009)

Nussy said:


> Awhile back I saw a post by someone that used this stuff called HTS2000. I thought the video made it look pretty easy. You might consider that. [googlevideo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N-cv3R4fWZc[/googlevideo]
> 
> Just curious how'd the second coat of Steelflex go? Looks like it turned out pretty well.




Alumiweld is similar to HTS2000. Its from Harbor Freight and is a bit cheaper then HTS2000. It's also a bit thicker and tends to melt slower then HTS2000. From what I have tested the HTS2000 melts before the metal is hot enough to grab it and let it flow into the material. You have to try and heat the metal and keep the flam away from the HTS2000 at the same time as your trying to put the HTS2000 onto the metal your heating with the flame. The Alumiweld takes longer to melt and flow but when it does the metal is hot enough to grab it. Nick stated he had foam behind the boat hull so I wouldn't try using it cause the foam is going to end up heating up and if it com busts then it becomes a huge mess.


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## Nussy (Nov 23, 2009)

danmyersmn said:


> Nussy said:
> 
> 
> > Awhile back I saw a post by someone that used this stuff called HTS2000. I thought the video made it look pretty easy. You might consider that. [googlevideo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N-cv3R4fWZc[/googlevideo]
> ...



Thanks, I wasn't familiar with a Alumaweld. I'll keep that in mind for my next project.


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## Nick Jones (Nov 23, 2009)

danmyersmn said:


> I think JB weld is going to end up being the best solution for you. Anything else is either going to be noticeable (dozens of pop rivets) or not usable (blind rivets) or have a equipment investment/learning curve and start your foam on fire :mrgreen: [-X (alumiweld) JB Weld should adhere well especially if you can get it squeezed into the hole and it can sort of mushroom out in the backside against the foam. Sort of like a "liquid rivet"
> 
> If nothing else pick up one of the small JB Weld kits and try it on a hole or two then you can sand it down and pick at it and see if it holds up enough for your likes.
> 
> ...




Man i wish i would have read this before i used the 3m 5200! I am posting some pic's of the what i did but i have already sanded it off. The 3m 5200 is like trying to paint silicone. live and learn i guess.

I got the trailer completely prepped for priming.


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## danmyersmn (Nov 23, 2009)

so you have a final repair or you tried the 5200 and then tried to paint it and then sanded it off and now your back at square one? 

Either way, I had another option I tested for you and will post it up for knowledge. I used this stuff to make a fix in my boat when I first bought it. 
https://tinyurl.com/yky7oad

When I was sanding it off to replace with a solid rivet it was stuck on just as strong as when I first installed it. I was thinking how would it sand and paint so I tested it.

The website doesn't say if paint will stick to it well. It is a 3M product so I suppose they would answer if you wanted to know for sure.


I applied it using a small torch on the lightest setting. Think of a propane torch with a mild blue flame coming out. No hissing or whistling or anything. Heck, like a science class bunson burner before you put teachers shoes on it [-X :mrgreen: I heated the aluminum until the stuff started to melt on it then I sort of directed the flame more towards the stick and got it melting and dripping onto the holes. Then I sort of shoved the stick around in it building up material. 

Next I tried sanding it but the flap wheel heated it up and it started to gum up. I then used a razor blade and shaved it off leaving the hole full.









Coat of primer, I didn't do anything to prep the metal so this primer isn't going to stick well but we can see how it sticks to the fix material.

Oh, no pic of primer. OOpps, ok, her is a top coat of Mopar Red engine paint. I will take to this with some sandpaper or something in a day or two after it fully cures and see how it holds up.

As for filling I think it did a great job at that.


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## Nick Jones (Nov 27, 2009)

took a little fish break at my wife's grandparents.


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## Nick Jones (Nov 27, 2009)

but i did get some work done today


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## Nick Jones (Nov 27, 2009)

more progress!


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## Nick Jones (Nov 27, 2009)

painted trailer!


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## Brine (Nov 28, 2009)

Looks good Nick


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## danmyersmn (Nov 29, 2009)

Nick Jones said:


> but i did get some work done today



That waterweld is good stuff. We fixed a buddies plastic gas tank with it. One day we launched his boat to go fishing I was in the boat he was backing it in the water. As I was drifting out with the boat I noticed water filling up the rear of the boat. I yelled something along the lines of "hey dumba$$ where is your plug" He said "i put it in". I looked closer and it was in. I also started to smell it wasn't water. He had a small hole that wore through the bottom of the tank. We tipped it up and shoved that waterweld into the hole and off we went. 

best part about the waterweld is how it stinks and you cant get the smell off your fingers. :wink:


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## Nick Jones (Nov 30, 2009)

Nussy said:


> Awhile back I saw a post by someone that used this stuff called HTS2000. I thought the video made it look pretty easy. You might consider that. [googlevideo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N-cv3R4fWZc[/googlevideo]
> 
> Just curious how'd the second coat of Steelflex go? Looks like it turned out pretty well.



Sorry man i missed this post. The second coat went on really easy. However, the first coat was a pain. I wanted my side rivets to be covered with the steelflex but after reading your post i decided to go a little thinner so it wouldn't run. I figured it wouldnt matter how thick the sides were as long as the rivets were covered since it doesn't take the same abuse as the bottom.


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## JBoze (Dec 30, 2009)

Have read through both of your boat threads. Did you trade your old one straight up for this one? The white one turned out awesome.


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## Nick Jones (Dec 31, 2009)

JBoze said:


> Have read through both of your boat threads. Did you trade your old one straight up for this one? The white one turned out awesome.



Not Really! I didnt like the stability of the last boat and i didnt want to rip everything out.


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## rusmir (Jan 28, 2010)

Nice work


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## Nick Jones (Jan 29, 2010)

Got started back on the boat today. Got the aluminum diamond plate cut for the front of the boat. This is to help with traction when standing on the front of the boat checking trotlines. i am going to pop rivet it later.


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## dyeguy1212 (Jan 29, 2010)

diamond plate looks bad arse... wish I could afford that :shock:


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## Nick Jones (Jan 29, 2010)

dyeguy1212 said:


> diamond plate looks bad arse... wish I could afford that :shock:



yeah, well when you live in a small southern state they have lots of our door flea markets. I got 12ft of it for less than a $100. The guy i bought it from buys the odds and ends and then sales it to people like us for little to nothing.


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## Nick Jones (Feb 3, 2010)

I need some help brain storming

I didnt have enough diamond plate to do my entire floor so I am going to use a wood flooring. 

My question I have is:

What material can i put over the plywood for texture that is Cost effective?
-I do alot of night fishing and trotlining so carpet is out of the question.
-It needs to be durable.
-From reading a bunch of articles it seems that rhino liner doesnt stick to wood very well. Is that true?
-It needs to be something that can withstand getting wet and can be pressure washed.

If available please attach a link of the material you suggest.


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## russ010 (Feb 3, 2010)

why not just put some hydroturf down... the link below is the link to closeouts... I've got some and I couldn't find a blemish in them anywhere.

https://hydroturf.com/products.php?cat=Closeouts and Specials&man=Sheets of Hydro-Turf


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## 270Handiman (Feb 3, 2010)

I second the Hydro Turf suggestion. It's the best material I have ever seen for using in boats.

270


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## Nick Jones (Feb 3, 2010)

russ010 said:


> why not just put some hydroturf down... the link below is the link to closeouts... I've got some and I couldn't find a blemish in them anywhere.
> 
> https://hydroturf.com/products.php?cat=Closeouts and Specials&man=Sheets of Hydro-Turf



Thanks man!


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## Nick Jones (Feb 6, 2010)

got front deck reframed with aluminum diamond plate.


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## Nick Jones (Feb 6, 2010)

more pics! started on self etching primer. Got Max-4 Stencils ordered.

https://www.camoextreme.com/

https://www.camoextreme.com/camouflage_stencils.htm


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## dyeguy1212 (Feb 6, 2010)

Looking good... what did you use for that black trim around the inside of the access hole?


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## dyeguy1212 (Feb 11, 2010)

any updates to this project?


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## Nick Jones (Feb 11, 2010)

dyeguy1212 said:


> any updates to this project?



yeah! except for some electrical i will add later. i should have this finish by the end of the weekend. want to buy it so i can get a new one? lol


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## dyeguy1212 (Feb 11, 2010)

no, but I want some more pics 8)


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## Nick Jones (Feb 13, 2010)

Man stenciling is intense. Here are some pics of the process. 

From primer to almost finished product. got front, back and one side done. still have one side left. going to leave the inside of the boat the way it is.

The way it is: to prep for the stencils you have to put a base color which is Sand then put black and mud brown spots/lines.


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## Nick Jones (Feb 13, 2010)

more pics


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## Nick Jones (Feb 13, 2010)

more pics


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## Nick Jones (Feb 13, 2010)

more pics


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## Brine (Feb 13, 2010)

Nice job Nick.

Any tricks to using the Stencils?


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## 270Handiman (Feb 13, 2010)

Great job! =D> Your patterns look very clear and sharp with minimal overspray. That's what makes or breaks a camo job. As a tip, after the paint is dry, you can use a rag soaked in thinner to wipe over the areas you have finished to remove any overspray that may have showed up.

Again, great job!

270


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## Nick Jones (Feb 13, 2010)

Brine said:


> Nice job Nick.
> 
> Any tricks to using the Stencils?



Here are some things I did/would do:
-Have a partner maybe two
-tilt it on its side; i did this because i have a groove that runs down the middle of the side and because of gravity
-buy a bunch of latex or disposable gloves; 
-no matter how much you tape it, you will still have to use your hands to hold the stencil snug when it is going over any uneven surfaces.
-second you need alot of them because your gloves and the stencils start to get sticky after a while. we found if we changed our gloves regularly they wouldnt stick to stencil like they did if your gloves had alot of paint on them.
-Have some wax paper or something that is as vertically long as the stencil; why do you need it? you want to put about a 1/2 inch to 1 inch under the stencil on both sides because if you dont you will have two vertical over spray lines on both sides of the stencil; i just used the thin paper that the stencils were shipped in.
-Remember! you cant really mess it up unless the paint runs or you have alot of paint under the stencil. dont worry if you get a little of the wrong color on the wrong part. it will give it contrast as long as you keep clean lines.


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## dyeguy1212 (Feb 13, 2010)

nicely done =D>


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## Nick Jones (Feb 16, 2010)

here is the first coat on the floor! put it on sunday 2/14/2010.

not what i thought it was going to be. used about 1/4 of a gallon on first coat. rolled it on with a full size foam roller.

sorry about the pictures. my phone doesnt have a flash.


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## Nick Jones (Feb 16, 2010)

today 2/16/2010

second coat! i realized that if i kept putting it on with the roller it was not going to be thick enough so i poured the remaining 3/4th's of the gallon out on the floor. it looks pretty good. I am going to paint over the floor with camo after it cures since the black would be really hot in the summer.


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## dyeguy1212 (Feb 16, 2010)

looks good


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## Nussy (Feb 17, 2010)

What is that you put on the floor? Is that some sort of epoxy?


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## Nick Jones (Feb 17, 2010)

Nussy said:


> What is that you put on the floor? Is that some sort of epoxy?




No. It is Rustoleum Truck Bed Coating. It is just wet. It takes about two days for it to completely dry in this cold weather. The fumes are so strong I thought I would just give it time to cure instead of using a heater.

It is located at walmart in the same place as the self etching primer. After working with it, it doesn't appear to be a quality product. I will let you know when it has completely dried but for $45 it was worth trying. 

https://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=368


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## Nick Jones (Feb 21, 2010)

more pics


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## Nick Jones (Feb 21, 2010)

motor pics


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## Nick Jones (Feb 21, 2010)

pics


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## Nick Jones (Mar 4, 2010)

Just thought I would share. 

I steelflexed my boat halfway up the sides and then painted over it. I have had the boat in the water a couple of times now and to tell you the truth is seems that the paint bonded better to the steelflex.

Please take into account that my boat is camoed therefore scratches are hidden better. You may have a different result with a solid color.

Details on painting steelflex:
-First thing to know is that I used the regular steelflex
-I ruffed up the steelflex with 150 sand paper
-I wiped it down real good
-Just to be safe I self etched the steelflex and then painted it

I primarily fish in a shallow/stumpy lake. I have attached a few pics. The last one is after pulling it out of the water.

Hope this helps


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## dyeguy1212 (Mar 4, 2010)

By saying that you "self etched" the steelflex, does that mean you put self etching primer on it? Seems like a bad idea, considering self etching primer is meant to bond to metal. Then again, the paint on top of the primer bonds to it fine... (head explodes)


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## Troutman3000 (Mar 4, 2010)

good to know that you can paint that stuff...

How much did you mix at a time?

How much did you use? How many coats?

Did you use a normal foam roller from HD or Lowes.


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## 270Handiman (Mar 4, 2010)

Man that looks great! You better get some fenders on that trailer before the rocks start banging into that nice paint job!


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## Nick Jones (Mar 4, 2010)

dyeguy1212 said:


> By saying that you "self etched" the steelflex, does that mean you put self etching primer on it? Seems like a bad idea, considering self etching primer is meant to bond to metal. Then again, the paint on top of the primer bonds to it fine... (head explodes)



You must not have used either of these products. The steelflex is applied really thick so if the self etching primer did penetrate the steelflex it would only effect the surface. I wanted something that would bond not just peel off the first time I hit a stump. Also, the quality of the rustoleum is far from what you would get in a body shop.


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## Nick Jones (Mar 4, 2010)

Troutman3000 said:


> good to know that you can paint that stuff...
> 
> How much did you mix at a time? Not real sure. I used two plastic spoons; something that you would serve punch with. I tried to use a measuring cup but it gets real messy and then you can't read your measurements
> 
> ...


 Yes

How much did you mix at a time? Not real sure. I used two plastic spoons; something that you would serve punch with. I tried to use a measuring cup but it gets real messy and then you can't read your measurements

How much did you use? almost the entire thing but I still have a little left. How many coats? Two; I was really light on the first coat but the second was so thick it felt like spreading concrete.

Did you use a normal foam roller from HD or Lowes.Yes

handyman,

Yeah I have been really lazy. I just can't seem to finish the fenders. I don’t want to buy new ones but if I don’t I will have to move them up because I changed my tires from 8 inch to 12 inch.


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## Doug (Mar 5, 2010)

=D> Nick,

That's a great job all around on the boat.


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