# Rat's 1977 Polar Kraft 1440 refit



## Rat (Aug 1, 2009)

This hull is a 1977 Polar Kraft 1440 my Brother in Law gave me (what a great guy huh?). She has spent most of here years banging around Reelfoot Lake in west TN. Considering her home lake, and her age, she is in very good condition. My BIL had already removed the midseat, he's a duck hunter, but it came with the hull in case I wanted to re-install it; my plan calls for leaving it out. There are no metal fatigue fractures anywhere on the hull, not even the frames/ribs and no leaks; she is well built. There is a single weld patch at the chine on the port side near the stem, Jeff said he punched a hole in her on a Cypress stump, it has been repaired and doesn't leak. 

The transom is in real bad shape and is the first order of business.








The new transom will be built to handle a 20" motor (the original transom was for a 15" motor). I like the height of a 20" transom for driving with a tiller handle extension while standing, the higher transom also keeps following seas out of the boat! 
The new transom template.




Since I didn't have the ply I started thinking she could use some decks, so I mocked up a fore deck with some plastiboard. 


I haven't played with the height yet, but I think it will end up lower than this image shows. I only crappie fish and don't need the high deck for flipping, but for jigging brush and storage. There will also be an aft deck and maybe a sole, I haven't decided on the sole yet; I can always add it later if I want it tho. 

The fit and finish is going to be 'bay boat' style, no carpet, epoxy/fiberglass finish. 

So the goal is:
Rebuild transom to 20"
fore deck
aft deck
removable livewell/midship seat
bilge
electrical


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## ben2go (Aug 1, 2009)

:WELCOME: 

Looks like a good deal and good plan.


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## Rat (Aug 1, 2009)

Made a trip to Lowe's today, not too bad under $100. Most of the decking is not going to be structural so I decided to go with outdoor ply instead of Marine grade 1088. The transom is structural, but I am going to wrap it in 12 biax fiberglass to handle the loads. The aft deck will be structural due to the added height of the transom, so it is going to be Meranti 1088 marine ply, as well as the transom stringers that tie in. Spent $70 on stainless hardware, just bolts and stuff. 

Transom cut out with first coat of epoxy...



Transom laid up. I am laminating two pieces of 7/16 ply for the transom. After the glass is added it will be an even 1" transom. I think I am going to add a mounting board as well, maybe a keystone shape in the center. I would like to go all the way across but the angle (that transfers the thrust to the hull) will only allow 1" under it; 1" just seems kinda weak to me. If it is I can always add it on later. The laminations are done with thickened epoxy (epoxy + woodflour) mixed to a ketchup like consistently, basically epoxy glue. 


As you can see, I have quite a bit of weight on it. The ply is a little warped and I am trying to straighten it out a little bit. 

Here is a shot of my GF16 in the back ground. Eventually she will be 16' x 48" at the chine, wood core sandwich composite; she's being put together by stitch and glue construction. 



Back to it in a few, I need a glass of tea first.


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## Rat (Aug 2, 2009)

The transom lamination laid up well. It still has a slight bow in in from port to starboard, but I can live with it. I also messed up a little. The transom is 1 1/4" thick not 1"; so I need to get a piece of 1/4" ply to get it where is needs to be. So I started on the fore deck in earnest. 

I dry fit everything together with temporary deck screws to see how I would like it. It is a little higher than what I wanted originally, but I also wanted it flush with the factory fore deck; so this is where I ended up. Boats are all about compromises right? At least I will have plenty of below decks storage!

fore deck in wood, fit looks good.



Same with the hatches cut out. I decided on two big hatches instead of three smaller. My original intent was to make one dry storage and pour 2 part foam into the unused space. However, I have opted for no dry storage, so just two big hatches that open into the belowdecks. Easier to get stuff in and out of as well as see what you are looking for; the starboard hatch will also be the anchor locker. 



The fore deck cleats will look like this. They will be bonded to the Alu hull with 5200 and stainless bolts through the hull.There will also be a stringer that runs from the rear frame of the fore deck to the front frame of the fore deck that will act as a stiffener and divide the locker into two equal sections port and starboard. 



These show how I am gluing the battens to the bottom side of the fore deck. Again I am using epoxy glue. The will be no metal fasteners anywhere in the construction save for the stainless steel fasteners for the cleats and rear frame of the fore deck (to the factory seat). If there were a good way to make a structural bond between Alu and wood core epoxy I wouldn't use them there either, maybe someday. 









Overall she is coming along nicely, just waiting for the epoxy to cure now. With building two boats I am out of work space in my little shop. I can't really work on other stuff until it is all cured. Eventually all surfaces will have three coats of epoxy as well as fiberglass on any deck surface.


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## Waterwings (Aug 2, 2009)

Gonna be a nice rig, and thanks for posting the step-by-step process pics. 8)


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## flintcreek (Aug 2, 2009)

Looking good, first time I have seen C-clamps like those. Good Ideal! Are you using the epoxy to glue the pieces together? Looking forward to more pictures.

Tight Lines.
Flintcreek


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## Rat (Aug 2, 2009)

flintcreek said:


> Looking good, first time I have seen C-clamps like those. Good Ideal! Are you using the epoxy to glue the pieces together? Looking forward to more pictures.
> 
> Tight Lines.
> Flintcreek



Epoxy glue that I make. Mix up a batch of epoxy glue like normal, and then add wood flour until you get a ketchup like consistency. You can add more wood flour to make it less watery or to build fillets as well. 

The c-clamp are just 3" pvc cut into 3" sections and then split, perfect tension for gluing parts together, and cheap!


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## Rat (Aug 3, 2009)

I got a little done on the ol' girl after work today. On the fore deck and hatches I put the second coat of epoxy, laid the 12 oz biax glass and wet it all out.I also drilled the oversized holes for the stainless screws on the rear frame of the fore deck. Didn't get a chance to get the plugs in before my neighbor called about a bad water leak he had. So I ended up playing plumber for a little bit :evil: At least I got a little glass down though.

As you can see I cut the glass proud. It is easier to cut it with a razor knife after it has cured than to try and get it perfect with the shears before hand. I also left plenty one the back so it will wrap down the rear frame about three inches to tie it all together and for abrasion resistance.


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## Rat (Aug 4, 2009)

I have received a couple of questions on marine ply and epoxy so I thought I would post some thoughts here about them. 
Marine Ply: When repairing, or building from scratch, a planing hull I use only Meranti 1088 Marine Ply and sometimes 6566. The structural characteristics of this ply is FAR superior to exterior grade ply from a box store. Technically I should be using 1088 or 6566 for my transom but I am fully encapsulating the exterior ply in 12 oz Biax fiberglass cloth which will give it more than enough strength. The transom knees will be 1088, lots of load (from the motor) there. The difference is the voids, BS 1088 does not allow any voids in the plies and there are 7 plies in a 1/2" sheet. In any event, marine ply will absorb water and rot like any other unprotected wood if not treated.

Epoxy: I use MarineEpoxy, not polyester (Bondo) or vinylester, for a couple of reasons. Epoxy will NOT allow water intrusion, poly and vinyl will unless sealed with another type of seal coat. Epoxy has better mechanical specs as well, shear, tensile, heat etc. Epoxy is far superior in every way, except price. There are several grades of epoxy as well, System 3 has superior specs compared to Marine Epoxy and when working on a hull that will see in excess of 65-70 MPH we will use System 3 on the main load bearing structures (runners and frames). Epoxy is not UV resistant, although you can add pigment to help with that. A good primer and top coat are needed or a UV resistant clear finish. We use epoxy based paints, like Sterling, to get a nice finish. 

Fiberglass: I use Biax because it makes turns (around a radius) better than matt. Fiberglass adds strength and structure, and can be used on decks for abrasion resistance as well. If you have more questions you can post 'em here, no need to PM unless you really want to. 

I am by no means a professional, just a hobbiest. But if you want to no more about stitch and glue composite construction you can check out Bateau.com.


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## Rat (Aug 6, 2009)

Picked up some hardware, epoxy primer, paint and non-skid today from West Marine. Also ordered the Alu ZC primer; I have decided to paint the entire interior to match and leave the outside for now. 

I also picked up a Seloco manual for my '71 'rude. Gonna learn how to rebuild carburetors and fuel pumps I guess. [-o< 

I may be fishing before next weekend!


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## russ010 (Aug 6, 2009)

take a lot of pics man! I can't wait to see the progress


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## huntinfool (Aug 6, 2009)

Rat, I assume by your location that you could possibly be the same Rat that posts on TBH. If so good to see you again. I like what your doing with your boat. I do fiberglass repair for a living, so if you ever need some advice let me know. Good luck with your project...she looks real good.


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## Rat (Aug 17, 2009)

Yep, same Rat, good to see ya huntinfool! I got this fiberglass thing down Brutha, I just need to work on the pretty part :mrgreen: ! 

Haven't made much progress, been too hot plus I needed 7 days to let the 5200 set up properly. I should be back at it this week sometime, hopefully. Been reading up on the repairs for my motor, I hate working on motors...
I used 5200 to glue the cleats to the inside of the hull, fastened with stainless bolts through the hull, there will be a stiffener in the center between the hatches. Sorry, not much boat porn... :shock:


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## Rat (Aug 18, 2009)

I got the transom shaped and cut down tonight, as well as the oversized holes drilled, for potting the fasteners, and one coat of epoxy. 

These 1 1/8 holes will be filled in with thickened epoxy, then drilled to 1/4" for the bolts through the transom. This way water will never get to the wood.






Hopefully I can get it biaxed and wrapped tomorrow evening; gonna try and get the fore deck glued down as well.


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## Rat (Aug 30, 2009)

Well, it only got up to 101 degrees this weekend, so I decided to do some work on the PolarKraft since it was so nice...

I potted the bolt holes in the transom earlier this week; so I only needed to remove the backing, sand everything down one more time and apply the last coat of epoxy resin. I don't think I need to wrap it in glass. But if it turns out I do I will build another one; this one has a little warp in it and I think will be fine, but if it drives me crazy I will rebuild it. 

I also glues the fore deck down, even got some fairing compound in it and the hatches. Used the sander to do some shaping and hit the high spots. It still needs a one more fairing round. Also the hatches are warped as well (that's what I get for buying warped wood [-X ) so they are going to need hatch dogs, I wasn't planning on using them, but now I have no choice. The fore deck is solid as a rock, no flex at all. 

I have decided to put a sole in as well as sides to hide the electrical and fuel conduits. I cut and fit the sole and need to get the rear frame and deck cut, but I need more wood. I am also going to add flotation under the sole. So I need to get some 1/2 and 3/8 ply. 

I picked up the primer, paints and non-skid as well, some for the epoxy some for the Alu. 

I am very pleased with the fore deck, super solid and lots of storage under the deck.


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## Rat (Sep 6, 2009)

Boat building is worse than crack! 

Okay, since I decided to install a sole I have made other plans as well, you know how it is...

I got most of it cut today and dry fit, the transom is in but not bolted yet, the aft deck, the side panels. I am running my electrical and fuel through the side panels (between the panels and the hull) as well. I installed another cleat about 2 inches from the sheer line to tie it all together. I still need to cut and fit the smaller aft sections, then remove it all, coat it with epoxy and then install it all. 

But here is how she will finally look.


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## huntinfool (Sep 7, 2009)

Looks good. What is the extra piece in the back? Is that for a depth finder or switch panel?
I ran all my fuel and electric through pvc that I put under the rib on both sides of my boat. (fuel on one side electric on the other) It worked great and gives it protection while being out of the way.

I've hunted granger before, but never fished there. Is the fishing any good? It always looks muddy and void of vegitation, but I've heard rumor that there are some crappie in it.


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## cubanredneck (Sep 7, 2009)

WOW!! great work on the boat this has been my fav. build so far. If I ever get around to it thats exactly what I want to do to my alumacraft I fish salt water for Tarpon snook and shark and rug just doesnt work well (squid goo is a bear to get out of rug)


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## Rat (Sep 7, 2009)

Yep, that little extra piece is for sonar, GPS and Dr. Pepper holder; the switch panel will be located under it as well. I am going to run my fuel and electric the same way; along the sides in the void created by the splash rail. 

Granger is a pretty good crappie lake, I spend a lot of time out there, when I have an operational boat that is.


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## huntinfool (Sep 7, 2009)

Maybe one day we could hook up and do some fishing there. I'd love to find a good crappie hole.


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## Rat (Sep 8, 2009)

You take me to Summerville and I'll take you to Granger!


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## Rat (Sep 8, 2009)

I got the wood removed fro the boat yesterday, and the first coat of epoxy on it. Today I got the second coat of epoxy, should be ready for the sole to go in tomorrow. 

I made a slight miscalculation on the transom, I built it for a 20" shaft and I actually have a 17" shaft, so I had to cut down my beautiful transom; at least the motor fits now. :roll: I already had the transom gussets in and everything! 

Anyway, here's the update...


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Sep 8, 2009)

I'm no expert but are you sure about your transom height. The motor looks like it's high.


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## huntinfool (Sep 8, 2009)

uhhh......... From what I'm seeing it is too high also......IMHO. Usually you want the plate even with the bottom of the boat or perhaps 1-1.5" above the bottom...but that looks like it is more than that. Maybe it is an optical illusion, but it sure looks like it is 4-6" above the bottom of the boat. Lets see what others have to say.


Also not trying to nock or question your work, but I don't see any screws or bolts to hold the top of the transom to the aluminum skin at the top edge. I know that the motor will be bolted on, but I usually make sure that it is screwed or bolted along the top edge in a few places.


LOOKS GREAT!!! Keep up the good work.


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## Rat (Sep 8, 2009)

Yep, that picture is the "before" picture, before I cut the transom down; I will get images up of how the motor sits on it now tomorrow. 

I will build a cap for the transom after I have the final height of the motor tuned just right; it will bolt the cap, the top of the skin and transom together as well as make a nice transition. I still need to build the keystone clamping board and a few other things as well back there; I am going to wait until I have the aft deck on though to make sure I have the look of everything right. 

The new transom ended up being about 2" higher than the stock transom and will need to be fine tuned a little bit more to get it perfect.


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## huntinfool (Sep 9, 2009)

Gotcha! That should be more like it. Project is coming along nicely. 

What do you want to know about Somerville? We fish a couple spots for black bass and know of a few humps for whites/hybrids. But anytime your wanting to go let me know.


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## Rat (Sep 10, 2009)

Looks like rain through the weekend, God knows we need it but sure puts the brakes on the boat. Maybe I can get something done in the workshop; we'll see.


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## huntinfool (Sep 11, 2009)

Same here. Got a short list of things I would like to do/change on my boat. But the rain will slow me down or bring a screeching halt to this train wreck. I might see about putting it in our shop and trying to get it all done.

Good luck


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## bird dogg (Sep 11, 2009)

a thought i had well prolly wont do any good now but you coulda kept the hight transom so you would have no problems with water running in an jus fabbed up a jack plate with angle iron an jus moved it down. 
for those who dont know it looks like your running a johnson around a 20 an the pickup is above the plate section on the other side


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## Rat (Sep 19, 2009)

The rain sure has been nice since we are in Stage two water rationing and a sever drought. But with a break in the weather this weekend I am able to get some work done to the PolarKraft.

Since I decided to go ahead and add a sole I am adding flotation under it as well. I had to blank off the limber holes and channels so the two part foam wouldn't fill them in. Since my front deck isn't sealed I need some way for the water to get to the bilge. I used Alu flashing, some glue and some masking tape. Glued the covers on, poured the foam, then trimmed the foam. I use a long butchers saw blade for trimming the foam, it works pretty well for small jobs. 











All the ply is sealed and ready to be installed, all the screw and bolt holes gave been overdrilled and filled with thickened epoxy. I preped the cleats and fastened them to the hull as well as the rear frame. I used a new-to-me product called 8200. West Marine guy said it is better than 4200 but not as permanent as 5200. So I bought a tube and I am going to try it out. I used 8200 on all the cleats and 5200 on the rear frame. I use a notched spreader to spread the 5200 and 8200, it will not press out like silicone caulk does, you need to have a nice even layer of glue. West Marine makes on with three different notches on it and is disposable; that's what I use. The smallest notches for 5200 and the biggest for making epoxy laminations with thickened epoxy. 











If the rain holds out I should have her all together tomorrow and be ready for paint in a few days.


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## huntinfool (Sep 20, 2009)

Looks good. What is your projected finish date? ( not the actual day...just time frame?)
I plan on putting a floor (sole) on mine too and I will be making sure that I keep the drain areas open too. I have a mound of foam that Bass Pro uses in their aluminum boats. We got a bunch of kits from them that they no longer use, so I just plan on using that. It is about 1" thick and I will just lay it down between the ribs.

Keep the updates coming. I'm looking at trolling motors and as soon as I get one I will just about be done....(yeah right) :LOL2: :LOL2:


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## Rat (Sep 20, 2009)

If I can get two more good weekends of work in that should just about do it, but when those will happen is anyone's guess. The details are what drag out the longest, plus I need to rebuild the trailer and the motor. The trailer can wait, the motor can't. 

Sheet foam between the ribs will be much easier than two part foam, not that it was that hard really. Do you have a spec sheet on sheet foam that is USCG approved? I would love to have some. There are times that sheet foam makes more sense, but I am not going to put something in someone's boat that isn't USCG Approved. 

I hear what you mean about being done also, their like our kids; we never stop trying to change them up just a little bit; no matter how great they are! :mrgreen:


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## Rat (Sep 20, 2009)

Last night after I posted I went out and laid the sole in. I had to wait for the glue on the cleats to set up, and I was going to wait until this morning, but I did it last night. 
Here's a picture of it from this morning:


So today I got the sides glued on and the glass laid in the cockpit. 

I laid out the dry glass and cut it to fit then I made my fillets using medium hardener so they would set up quickly, gave everything a coating of epoxy (with medium hardener again), waited until it was all tacky and then laid the glass in and wet it out. Roz, my wife, helped me lay the glass in and I wet it out. 7 feet by 4 feet of 12 oz biax glass, I used just over 1 gallon of epoxy and had enough left over to coat the aft deck one more time and some touch up in a few places. 










Forecast is for rain for the next three days.


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## Rat (Sep 20, 2009)

Went ahead and glued down the aft deck this evening. She's starting to look like a fishing boat! There are no hatch cutouts in the aft deck, as you can see; I am going to use pre-built hatches but I don't have them yet. I will cut them in after I get them. 

Last picture for the night:


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## huntinfool (Sep 20, 2009)

It's looking good! I bet it will weigh a lot, but it will be built like a tank. Can't wait to see it finished.


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## Rat (Sep 21, 2009)

Hopefully she isn't going to turn out too heavy; I estimated the weight last night. 
91.75 pounds of 1/2 ply (I used 7/16 but don't know the weight of it, so it will be a little less)
12.00 pounds epoxy (2 gallons) includes fillets/glue
1.0 pound 12 oz glass
12.0 pounds of 1x2 (approx 40 linear feet)
2.5 pounds two part foam

120 pounds additional so far (give or take). This is in addition to the hull and doesn't include the transom rebuild. 

Most of the heavy stuff is done so I am thinking the hull will end up around an additional 150 pounds with hardware.


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## huntinfool (Sep 21, 2009)

That's not too bad. I was estimating a bit higher. When you get the batts., fuel tank and gear in it it might be righ there. Keep up the good work and I can't wait to see it done.


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## Hydrilla (Sep 21, 2009)

Thanks for posting the weight info, I was curious as to how much weight the fiberglass would add.


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## huntinfool (Sep 21, 2009)

Rat, I can't find the thread where we were talking about a light weight product to make a floor out of that would last forever. I see on another thread taht someone used a product called Sintra. I think that this would work for floors, although he said it was expensive. I think that it would be worth looking into. I would plan on adding Skid no more to it and that would be it. 

Just FYI.


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## dearl (Sep 21, 2009)

Rat the boats looking real good, I have alot of respect for guys that can work with fiberglass, takes alot of skill, and it looks like you've got it down to a science. Keep up the good work. At the pace your going you'll be fishing while I'm still welding. =D>


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## Rat (Sep 21, 2009)

Sintra is an expanded PVC board, similar uses to plasticore but a little (!) better specs.
tech specs here:
Sintra specs

Basically it has pretty good shear strength and modules of elasticity, making a good fastening system is going to be a chore tho. It will proly need to be framed and bolted or screwed, no glue joints or epoxy. And it needs to be treated for UV protection although the specs seem to indicate it is for color fastness not due to elongated structural failure. But still, it's PVC and needs to be protected I would think. 

Weight by comparison is good:
1/2 ply 1.5 pounds per square foot
1/2 Sintra 1.34 per square foot
(and you would still need to add more weight to the plywood for weatherproofing.)
It has 1/2 deflection for 30 pounds on 60 inch centers, which equates to roughly 20 inch centers for a 200 pound person standing flat footed so 14-16 inch centers would likely yield very little, if any, deflection. 

It also has a low resistance to benzine (fuel). 

The cost is the most prohibitive spec tho! 

For my style of building if I am going to spend the money anyway, I will use honeycomb, Nidacore or Divinycell if I have to. But my first choice would be 1088 Marine Ply, it just has better specs and is more suited for my style of building.

I think Sintra would be good for decks and soles that are going to be covered with Durabak, carbet or paint but aren't going to be structural or handle any shear loads; keeping in mind the few negatives so they can be engineered to a safe level. Also, since Sintra is made to be covered I think a good adhesive backed grip tape may be the best option for getting a good uniform, lasting no-skid surface. 

I say try it and let us know how it works for ya! :mrgreen: Plus they have a TON of cool colors.
Sintra website


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## huntinfool (Sep 22, 2009)

Bobberboy has already used it. I'm trying to go as light as possible with anything I put in my boat. I already know what I can do with resin and glass and even epoxy for that matter. What I want is something that is lighter and will last longer. This might be it. They have another product called epanel which is aluminum on both sides of a core, but I have a feeling it will be expensive. Besides I want to try something new. As I said before I workwith glass every day and I know what it is capable of. I just really want to try something new. I'm still looking and not sold on any one product yet.

So far your boat is looking good. When you get it done we need to plan a hunt/fishing trip and test it out.


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## Rat (Sep 22, 2009)

The X-Treme Hunt is coming up in February. You need to be there! 

No leaks in the boat as of this morning. It started raining about midnight last night and, since I don't have the cockpit drains in yet, the entire cockpit is about 2/3 full of water! #-o 

I'm just happy it's raining.


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## huntinfool (Sep 22, 2009)

Time for a bilge pump!!! Good to hear that it doesn't leak. Just remember to seal the wood where you put the drains in and use plenty of silicone where you put screws in. 

I've tried to make the big hunt several times, but it always seems that something comes up. I may just have to mark the calendar and make it happen this year.


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## Rat (Sep 22, 2009)

Pumped the water out when I got home; it never got more than half full (half empty?). The water ran out thrpugh the electrical conduit into the bilge area and drained out, I only had to pump about 20 Gallons!


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## huntinfool (Sep 22, 2009)

If you only knew how many times I have had to do that. It never fails I pour a solid glass transom and the next day it rains and fills the boat up with water. Luckily in that case I can drill out the drain hole and drain the boat. Other jobs I have to get the bilge out.


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## Rat (Sep 27, 2009)

In between picking up boats and fishing this weekend I did manage to get a little work done on the tinny. Earlier this week I got the cockpit drains cut in and sealed up; today I did a little fairing. I sanded everything down, washed it off with water, dried it and added the last bit of fairing compound to her. She isn't going to have a yacht finish, but I didn't want to leave the glass ends showing either. I'm not going to fill the weave in the cockpit either, just add another seal coat and then paint it with non skid additive. She will be ready for paint before long. I have a few more details to work out like the wiring box, battery and fuel tank locations and final seat arrangement. But I need to order more wood flour and epoxy, I am down to my last half gallon and completely out of wood flour. 

This weeks photos:


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## huntinfool (Sep 27, 2009)

Coming along nicely Rat! Looks like you will have alot invested in this. It is going to be so worth it when your done to have a boat rigged just like you like it.


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## CHILIDWG (Sep 29, 2009)

Looks good Rat!! Thanks for the foam idea.


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## lowlight (Oct 1, 2009)

I noticed you are using 1/2 inch ply? Is this only because you are glassing it or is 1/2" a common suitable way to go?
The foam idea ROCKS! Thanks for the tip. Your boat looks very nice, thanks for sharing. I'm eager to see the outcome.


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## huntinfool (Oct 1, 2009)

1/2" ply with glass over it is very strong for a floor. It will be more than anyone will need on an aluminum boat. It will make the hull stronger once secured to the ribs.


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## Rat (Nov 23, 2009)

Just an update everyone. I haven't done a single thing on the boat since my last post! I have been fishing, hunting, hiking etc; plus it has been raining every other day. But I have a fresh batch of materials and I am going to be doing some work over the long weekend. I am anxious to get her done now, so no more lolly gaggin' around!


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## dyeguy1212 (Nov 23, 2009)

since youve been so lazy, you should make up for it with a thorough explanation of what the heck you did to that ply wood.. I'm still lost..


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## Rat (Dec 14, 2009)

dyeguy1212 said:


> since youve been so lazy, you should make up for it with a thorough explanation of what the heck you did to that ply wood.. I'm still lost..



Well, since you asked...
The process is called wood core composite, it is a fiberglass sandwich.

The plywood is simply being used as a core material, there are lots of core materials out there, DinaCore, DivinyCell, many options. The core offers some of the strength on the framing or the hull, depending on what it is used for. 

The epoxy is a medium where a highly stable cross linked polymer bond is made; it is very strong along many points of elasticity (shear, impact etc.). Epoxy is two part, Epoxy and Hardener, and comes in different mixing ratios. I use MarinEpoxy witch is a 2:1 mix. 

Fiberglass is a very strong cloth like substrate, we are all familiar with it to some degree. Mostly on Auto body repair. It is a cloth matt and the direction and lay (warp and weft) of how it is woven is also how it is named. Bixial is woven with the fibers in a 45° angle to each other, matt is woven with the fibers in a 90° angle to each other. There are various names for each weave according to weight and finish and a few other factors. Matt can also be from Kevlar, or carbon fiber, as well as other high tech fibers. Fiberglass is best at absorbing Epoxy well, is relatively cheap and wroks for most of the design specs we will ever use it for, including safety factors. 

So basically what I do with my plywood is one of two things:
1) Just coat it with epoxy. This is to keep it watertight as well as add structure to the wood. Used mainly in frames internal bulkheads or areas where there isn't a high degree of traffic (walking, dropping anchors etc). 
2) A true composite sandwich. IOW, from top to bottom you will have this: Epoxy paint, Epoxy primer, Epoxy fairing compound, Epoxy, Fiberglass encased in Epoxy, another couple layers of epoxy, wood core, A couple layers of epoxy, fiberglass encased by epoxy, two more layers of epoxy. That is a full composite sandwich. For my little tin boat I leave off the bottom layer of fiberglass as the sole isn't structural, I just want the fiberglass for strength when i drop something heavy and for added protection from normal wear and tear. 

The goal is to encapsulate all the wood so no water gets in. Epoxy resin is waterproof, not like Polyester resins which will allow water intrusion. If you totally encapsulate the wood, no water gets in and therefore, no rot will ensue. Adding the fiberglass matt adds great strength to the sandwich, just add it where it is needed. 

All screws will have 5200 in the holes, or be overdrilled, filled with epoxy glue, and then drilled smaller so as to not allow any water contact with wood, ever. 

Using epoxy/fiberglass will allow you to use smaller core materials for the same, or better, strength to weight ratios than single component hulls/decks. 

Does that clear it up? :LOL2:


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## dearl (Dec 14, 2009)

Uh yea, I understood every word, I think..... Make a long story short, and tell everyone your boat will be built like a tank, and wont rot! They will understand that.  
Like I said before you guys that can work in fiberglass have a gift, I tried it on a 72 Grady white, and did good till it came to cabosil, and wood flour, and biaxle, woven roven, lost it mid stride, give me something I can weld, or burn, I'm good, mixing the proper amount of hardner, and getting the right mat or chopped strand, I'd probably glass myself to the bottom of the boat. Look like a fly stuck to fly paper. :LOL2:


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## Rat (Dec 14, 2009)

Because the weather has been so uncooperative I have been sweating the details; sanding when I can and touching up epoxy and fairing when I can. It's tough between rainshowers, or you get an unexpected one and hafta sand off all the epoxy with Chicken Pox! I am working on my Tinny outside as I have the workshop full of GF-16 (my other boat) at the moment. 

So this has left me with plenty of time to contemplate seating arrangements, batteries, fuel tanks and such as that. I have it all laid out in my mind, I just need to get it transferred to wood, glass and epoxy. I am still working on the lighting, not sure how I am going to go on that yet either. I also need to get to work on the engine...

Anyway, I am making progress, just in small amounts, a little here, a little there; eating an elephant right...?


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## dearl (Dec 15, 2009)

Yep, staying pretty wet here too. Just look at it this way, you'll have all the details worked out, and you can steady go after it when the weather breaks. If your like me you'll run out of money long before you run out of ideas.


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## Rat (Dec 19, 2009)

I have been waiting to cut the aft deck hatch because I wanted to use a prefab hatch, but I haven't been able to find one that would fit exactly; so I cut the hole today. I cut the hatch opening, battens and hatch stringers, coated everything up with resin and it is drying. 

I think I have my batteries figured out as well. I really didn't want to have a battery in the forward locker, but I am going to put one there. One in the forward locker and one in the aft to Port. The fuel tank will be in the cockpit and be movable as ballast when needed. 

I also started the wiring today, just the wires, I still need to order the switch panel, lights, 12V sockets, buss terminals and fuses. I have all the other hardware, but still need to build the rod holders. As soon as I figure out which seats I am going to use I can put down the blocks and then I can paint, if it warms up enough that is. 

I also figured I will need to rebuild the trailer, the hull doesn't fit. I need to lengthen the tongue by three feet to get the transom on the bunks at the end of the trailer. It will work for now, but if I have the extra cash I will do it before first splash. 

All it takes is money...and time.


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## dyeguy1212 (Dec 20, 2009)

Thanks for the run down rat, I understand now. I think I'm going to use epoxy resin on 3/4" ply wood, and save myself the impending doom of dealing with the glass process. Interesting read though!

Out of curiosity, how much does that process run you, and how much money (and weight) are you saving compared to thicker ply or sheet metal?


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## Rat (Dec 20, 2009)

dyeguy1212 said:


> Thanks for the run down rat, I understand now. I think I'm going to use epoxy resin on 3/4" ply wood, and save myself the impending doom of dealing with the glass process. Interesting read though!
> 
> Out of curiosity, how much does that process run you, and how much money (and weight) are you saving compared to thicker ply or sheet metal?



Here is how the weight breaks down for my refit:



Rat said:


> I estimated the weight last night.
> 91.75 pounds of 1/2 ply (I used 7/16 but don't know the weight of it, so it will be a little less)
> 12.00 pounds epoxy (2 gallons) includes fillets/glue
> 1.0 pound 12 oz glass
> ...



Compared to Alu. I think the composite method is pretty close in price. I don't really know because I have never done full refit using Alu; just repairs and small add-ons to some hulls. 
The Pros are that wood core gives you a measure of flotation, is more impact resistant, puncture resistant and has a better elasticity modulus.
The Cons are it could get rot if not properly installed, takes longer to install (no way around cure times), and has a steeper learning curve as most people already understand metal work but not lamination work. 

I have seen stitch and glue hulls that weigh close to 2/3 what the same hull in alum weighs. IE a 16 foot 48 inch (at the chine) jon boat that weighs 170 pounds. That's a custom built composit Vs. a production Alu. hull. 

Compared to heavier ply and water sealing it is lighter but more expensive. You need a lot of framing to add structure to non composite wood that is not needed with a composite sandwich. Look at the images under my fore deck, there are no braces or kickers; just a cleat around the outside and a rear frame with a stiffener. Wood sealant isn't very lightweight, but it is lighter than epoxy/glass, about 4-5 pounds (?) per gallon for sealant Vs. 6 for Epoxy. Gallon for gallon it is lighter, but you need more of it and you need to cover more wood (framing etc). 

So far I have used about $120 in wood and will end up using about $170 in Epoxy and proly $15 in fiberglass; add another $30 for stuff like woodflour, mixing cups and latex gloves. So around $335 by the end of the build. This just includes the composite stuff as I would use the same amount of 5200, 4200 and foam. The topside paint is going to run about $200 Vs. what it would cost for carpet like many people have. 

For me, I just like the "feel" of a composite boat over an all Alu. boat; and I like the durability better than just a sealed wood and carpet inside. Any three of these types will last a long time if done correctly and maintained. 

So to answer your question. I'm not saving any money, it is more expensive than wood sealant and proly close to the same cost as Alu.; but I am saving weight over both methods.


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## Rat (Dec 20, 2009)

I got the battens glued in for the aft hatch today. I also got most of the electrical box built; I just need to order the switch panel and then cut the face for the box. I am very close to being done with the decking, glass and epoxy (except for touch ups of course). Started laying out the electrical wires and batteries, nothing is perfect but I have just consigned myself to do it and forget about what could have been. The batteries will be below decks and the fuel tank will be in the cockpit. 

The Xtreme Hunt is in Feb and I gotta be done by then. So, until then, all extra monies, and time, go to the boat and motor. If it's nice enough I want to paint next weekend (that's the goal anyway). 

Pictures tomorrow.


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## danmyersmn (Dec 21, 2009)

Rat said:


> Started laying out the electrical wires and batteries, nothing is perfect but I have just consigned myself to do it and forget about what could have been. .




Your "not quite perfect" if far better then what many of us are doing. Your rig is top notch.


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## Rat (Dec 27, 2009)

Some updates. Still working on the details, this takes the longest time. I also only have medium hardener for my Epoxy, so it is taking extra long for it to cure in this cold weather.

I found the lights I am going to use; they are made by BEP marine and I found them at my local Academy on sale for $9, they are Amber colored. I am installing two in the forward cockpit area and one in the aft cockpit area. I will add some to the below decks lockers later if I need them.













I have also potted the remaining holes for the Sonar and light sockets, touched up a few areas that needed it with some epoxy glue filler. I just need to run a light sander over everything, wipe it down and then paint; I just need the weather to cooperate, a couple of 70 degree days would do it. 

I also checked the parts for the motor, most of the parts I need are no longer available thru OMC. I used Sea Way Marine, they had all of them in stock, looks like it will run about $200 for everything I need. I will have about $475 in the motor when done, not bad really. I will need to get a prop also.

The wiring will be done this week as well, I need to pick up a few wire looms and straps, but that's all.


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## dearl (Dec 28, 2009)

Looking good Rat, Remeber when you asked me about lights, I just picked up 4 Attwood cockpit lights today at wally world on clearance for 6 bucks for 2. These are the 3/4" flush mount LED white lights, but I see you already found some, looks good. What colors you looking to paint her?


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## Rat (Dec 28, 2009)

Either Gray with White non-skid or White with Gray non-skid, not real sure yet; but it's going to be light colored, I am tired of having hot feet while fishing! =D>


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## Henry Hefner (Dec 28, 2009)

Rat said:


> Either Gray with White non-skid or White with Gray non-skid, not real sure yet; but it's going to be light colored, I am tired of having hot feet while fishing! =D>



Then think about a light gray. Too white and the reflection is hard on your eyes.


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## huntinfool (Jan 5, 2010)

Looking good Rat. I have been busy and not posted much. I have tried to do some hunting though. After my maiden voyage I have decided to change a few things on my boat, but nothing that would stop me from using it on the hunt...if I can make it. Hope I get a chance to go and do some hunting and fishing and just some all around fun.


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## JBoze (Jan 7, 2010)

Very nice!


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## Rat (Feb 15, 2010)

I am embarrassed to say that not much has been done since my last posting. I have really been waiting on a break in this freakish weather we are having to prime and paint the decks, sole and sides, but it looks like it is going to be awhile before I can do that. 

In the mean time the Xtreme Hunt is getting close so I have decided to take her to the water sans primer and paint! I have the trolling motor (40 lb bow mount) and parts on the way for the gas motor, rear seat is mounted, batteries are positioned wiring is going in and lights are being installed. basically she will be a naked fisher/hunter her first time out! 

I will get images up this week of the progress. Not being able to get her painted yet has been a bummer, but I am just going to have to wait, that's all. 

If I can fix the motor, which remains to be seen, I will have her on the water in two weeks, gettin' her muddy at Granger Lake! 

She is glued together tho and all the structural works is done and walking around on her is very solid; no sags, creeks or pops. I think she will fish. 

Pictures, I promise!


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## Rat (Feb 16, 2010)

Pictures as promised. There is still a lot of work left to do.


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## dearl (Feb 16, 2010)

coming together nice rat, Thats a good looking floor plan you got, plenty of room. I know the weather has sucked here for the past few weeks, hard to get anything done, stick with it man she's gonna be great!


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## eezerz (Feb 16, 2010)

Very cool! That's SOME SKILLS you have there...
Solid, Unsinkable, One mean machine... =D> =D> =D> 
:wink:


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## Rat (Feb 18, 2010)

I completed pulling all the wire last night and finished up about 2/3 of the wiring. I got the light pole sockets mounted and batteries figured out as well; I just need to build some battery platforms and strap them down. 

The trolling motor platform and transom cap are turned in and they are being cut from 1/8 Alu. and broke the correct shapes; I may have them today, but for sure by tomorrow. 

That trolling motor is HUGE on the bow of that boat. I gotta figure out a permanent plug location for it, but I think I will use it attached by rings for now, until I use it and see if it needs to move. Plus I will need to take all this out at some point to paint, the less I have to take out the better. 

The cockpit/courtesy lights turned out better than I expected, they light up real well. 

Motor parts still aren't here yet.

I will be fishing this weekend so not much is going to get done, next week promises to be nice weather so maybe I can get her water ready by then. 

Pictures when I get home...


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## Rat (Feb 18, 2010)

The guys got my metal out in record time today, so I got quite a bit done today. I began by rough fitting the trolling motor platform, then cutting it down to fit exactly right; then I did the same with the transom cap. 

Trolling motor platform is cut and broke proud to allow for fitting to the various 'obstructions' on the fore deck.




Then I positioned it close to where I wanted it and made some cuts, stuck it back on with a few rivets holding it and ground/sanded the starboard side to match the rubrail.




Here is how she looks after the final fit




Motor up




I did the same thing to the transom cap, but it required much more time. I started with a piece of channel 4 x 1 1/2 x 4 just straight. I then laid it out on the transom and marked and cut around the bracing and to get the fall away right. Lots of marking, checking, remarking and cutting, fitting and so on. It turned out pretty nice.







Sorry for the grainy images but I had the wrong ISO setting on the camera, like an idiot!


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## dyeguy1212 (Feb 18, 2010)

I'm very impressed with that metal work.. this is an unbelievably professional job =D>


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## Rat (Feb 18, 2010)

dyeguy1212 said:


> I'm very impressed with that metal work.. this is an unbelievably professional job =D>



7hanks, she's really starting to come together. Having a full metalshop at your disposal does have its advantages! Even though I know very little about metal, the guys in the shop know lots about it.


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## perchin (Feb 19, 2010)

I have a very old meyers 14' flat bottom........the tin all seems so flimsy for all the mods I would like. Is this possible with this kinda boat? Or should I look for something else? I got mine for free so if its good then great! thanks for any help you can give me.


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## Nevillizer (Feb 19, 2010)

Rat - Heckuvajob! =D>


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## Rat (Feb 19, 2010)

perchin said:


> I have a very old meyers 14' flat bottom........the tin all seems so flimsy for all the mods I would like. Is this possible with this kinda boat? Or should I look for something else? I got mine for free so if its good then great! thanks for any help you can give me.



Keep your structural support for your mods (decks, livewells etc) on the existing structural members (ribs, frames, seats etc) of the boat and I think you will be fine. If it floats mod it!


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## perchin (Feb 20, 2010)

Thanks Rat,
You have inspired me!!! Exceptional job on yours. =D>


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## SrPhatness (Feb 20, 2010)

Wow rat,
You're boat is looking great. =D> 
All of the epoxy and fiberglass will make those 1/2" boards STRONG. 

I want to get me some of those courtesy lights too. Because I do a lot of night fishing.

Great work man.


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## Rat (Feb 22, 2010)

I got the motor running Sunday afternoon. The parts arrived Friday and I was able to rebuild the carb and get all the new linkage and lanyard kill switch installed as well as perform a link and sync. Then I went fishing all weekend. When I got home on Sunday I installed the new thermostat, water pump/impeller and rebuilt the fuel pump; stuck her in the tank and she fired right off! It still has a little low speed/idle stumble, but it runs great and starts on the first or second pull! It is a 1971 18 HP Evinrude; it still needs lots of work, but it is functional now. I am going to try and get her on the water to perform a full load test today or tomorrow.


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## dearl (Feb 22, 2010)

Good to hear Rat, you left out one major part... Did you catch any fish? Glad to hear everything is coming together. Great job on the ole girl, since I finally named my rig, whats yours going to be?


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## Rat (Mar 7, 2010)

Well, I have been working on the motor and getting the hardware and accessories mounted. 

I have added new fuel lines to the motor as well as a few other small parts and gaskets. She runs very well! I also cleaned her up and she is shining like a new penny, but missing a few chips of paint here and there  

I just about have all the accessories mounted where I want them, just a few hardware items still need to be bolted down. All the wiring is complete but I still need the battery trays. 

Next step is sealing everything, all the penetrations for wiring and screws etc with 4200/5200, then paint; if the weather cooperates. I will get some images today for y'all.


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## Rat (Mar 7, 2010)

It looks like rain the rest of the day but I managed to get some of the wiring in the shroud and zip-tied up. 
Pictures as promised.

Engine first: This motor was so filthy I was afraid I wouldn't be able to get it clean without tearing it down. The fuel lines had been leaking for sometime and the bottom of the cowling had about 1/8 to 3/8 of an inch of grime and more built up in the corners. A couple of cans of Acetone and some carb cleaner got her looking good as new. You can see the missing paint where the years of gunk caused it to come of during cleaning. I am not much of a boat motor mechanic but I am very pleased with how well she has turned out. Things I have done are, carb rebuild, replaced some of the linkage for choke and low speed control, thermostat, seal and gasket, rebuilt fuel pump, new fuel lines, new plugs, new kill switch, new lower unit lube and MAJOR cleaning of everything! 

Front view of the new kill switch, it's a Sea Sense, very easy to install. 



Starboard side view, re built fuel pump and lines.



Aft View, new plugs and removed the most grime from this area. I guess it had been stored on it back and it was FULL of gunk back here. 



Port side nice and clean. 



Rebuilt the carb, this was easier than I thought, The nice white plastic pieces are the new ones I installed. 



And here she hangin' on the transom. 



She is due for a paint job, but for now she runs and that is a major hurdle for me!


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## Mojo (Mar 7, 2010)

Running beats Pretty... But it shouldn't take you much to pretty that up.. couple of can's of some high quality paint and an afternoon and that thing will be pimp!


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## Rat (Mar 7, 2010)

Now for the general stuff. I put most of the wiring in the shroud today I haven't figured a good way to secure it yet, but I will make a run to the hardware store and look around to see what I come up with. Otherwise it is all tidy and out of the way.

Locker under the fore deck. Type 29 battery and the wiring. The stbd side will have the anchor locker and it will also have the PFDs in here. You can also see the finished trolling motor mounted to the deck. 



Bilge pump and pass through wiring. The wiring passes through this area to the conduit leading forward. 



Aft deck and locker open. A type 27 battery is in here, not sure what I am going to use it for yet, but I think I may need it for ballast. I always need a battery for crappie lights tho! 



Switch panel layout, with my cool light added! 



Here is how she will look closed up and ready for running. I REALLY need a week of good weather to get her all painted and ready to hit the water.


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## dyeguy1212 (Mar 7, 2010)

looking good!


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## cavman138 (Mar 7, 2010)

can't wait to see the finished product


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## Rat (Mar 8, 2010)

I have a pretty good story on this motor. 

I bought this motor for under $200 as a parts motor from a local guy. He said they had installed a new impeller and changed the ignition system (coils, points etc). He said it ran fine until they gave it the "tune up" (ignition parts) and then it never did run again, it wouldn't even start. So I got this thing for a song. During my working on it I found that the kill switch wire had been plugged into itself. Effectively the motor was switched "off" all the time which is the reason it would never start. I also found that they had installed the impeller wrong and it would not pump water; they did not seal the base plate correctly. So it's a good thing they couldn't run it or they might have burned it up anyway. The kill switch wires looked like they were supposed to plug in together; they had a male and female end which fit perfectly, but obviously aren't supposed to go together! Anyway, I just thought it was funny how it all came about.


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## huntinfool (Mar 26, 2010)

Rat, what are you going to put on the inside? Are you just5 going to paint it? Gelcoat with webbing or perhaps Skid no more?

What color? 

Can you catch any crappie at Granger on roadrunners or is it pretty much a minnow and float kinda thing?


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## Rat (Mar 26, 2010)

I am planning to paint with an off white color and then add Kiwi Grip in Gray. Hopefully this weekend, but I got lots of Honey Dos to get done first. I am also rebuilding the trailer right now so the hull isn't even on the trailer...

Roadrunners at Granger are killer, especially the Crappie Thunder bodies. Sometimes we long line troll and sometimes we spider rig, both on the lake and in the river. Up against the banks, they aren't there yet tho, we switch to smaller Maribu or split tail grubs in the 1/32 to 1/16 range. I have also had good luck running a jig under a slip bobber over suspended fish around structure/brush piles. We switch to minnows at night.

Color can vary widely depending on temp, clarity and flow. I usually start with white or blue/white or blue/chartreuse. If they are tight to cover I seem to have better luck with solid chartreuse maribu.


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## huntinfool (Mar 26, 2010)

The only two times I have seen the lake it was very dirty water so I wasn't sure if they would work. I am so ready to get into some crappie. Been thinking about a crappie/hog hunt in one.


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## blazinmoto (Apr 26, 2010)

Hey Rat, do you know if the carpet glue will stick to the epoxy? I have two little ones and the carpet would help with noise.


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## huntinfool (Apr 26, 2010)

blazinmoto said:


> Hey Rat, do you know if the carpet glue will stick to the epoxy? I have two little ones and the carpet would help with noise.


Yes it will!


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## blazinmoto (Apr 27, 2010)

Thanks for the reply.


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## Dustin07 (Apr 29, 2010)

Hey Rat, it's been a month! your boat looks sweet, did you get the honey do list done?


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## Rat (May 10, 2010)

WHEW! That was the longest Honey-Do list of all time! :mrgreen: :mrgreen: But seriously, my best friend in the world got married, and in between trying to catch enough crappie for 100+ people, getting everything organized, getting everyone there; THEN getting him married off...I just haven't had the time to get sown and dirty. I have rebuilt the trailer tho and got the the boat back on her today. 

This trailer had been jacknifed pretty badly at some point it its life; almost all the welds were broke, I extended the back by three feet and the tongue by three feet to actually fit the hull. I installed new bunks and got rid of the rollers and those goofy adjustable bunk stays. i added a new goal post loading system, that I will proly end up rebuilding at some point. It is a lilttle loosey-goosey. She got a new winch and hitch as well. I wanted to get it painted and all that but it is going to hafta wait; I need to get her in the water. maybe I can paint the trailer next year! 

I loaded the boat on the trailer and it fits like a dream, I couldn't be happier; well, if it were painted I would be happier, but whatever...

I vacuumed all the oak tassels out of the hull and tomorrow i will take it down and pressure wash it at the local car wash. then final prep for prime and paint. the goal is to get it done by next weekend (21st) so I can go camping again! 

Pictures as always...













BTW, that's regular lumber treated with Boiled Linseed Oil and I did put the carpet back on them. I will get shots of the boat on it tomorrow. These are from yesterday. Enjoy.


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## Rat (May 11, 2010)

I stopped for some shots on my way to work this morning. So here she is back on the trailer...


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## Rat (May 11, 2010)

I think I got her all sealed up and ready for prime and paint. When I got home from work today I trailered her down to the local car wash and sprayed her down good. Got all that crap from the liveoaks out of her. Tomorrow she will get her final Acetone bath and then the first coat of primer; she's ready. 

So I spent the rest of the afternoon sealing everything up with 5200 and 8400; all the screw holes and transitions from metal to wood to make the final coats roll on nice and easy, and smooth. Final prep shots...


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## Rat (May 12, 2010)

Okay, so I got some color on the hull today, it's only primer, but its color! The white is Primekote by Interlux and the chartreuse is the Zinc Chromate primer by Pettit. I messed up the first batch of epoxy primer by putting 333 brushing reducer in it; it calls for 2333N. It didn't go well so I blew a half quart of primer #-o . I hafta pay more attention. Anyway, I don't know about y'all but I was tired of looking at woograin. She's starting to look like a boat now!


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## Rat (May 16, 2010)

I got the second coat of primer on today. Hopefully the rain will hold of long enough for me to get the top coat on in the next few days. She's starting to look good. I also ordered the kiwigrip so it will be here in a few days; its all starting to come together!


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## blazinmoto (May 16, 2010)

Can't wait to see the color on. Its one awesome mod.


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## Rat (May 17, 2010)

blazinmoto said:


> Can't wait to see the color on. Its one awesome mod.



7hanks, it sure is fun!


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## Rat (May 18, 2010)

Had sever thunderstorms roll through last night so I didn't get to paint; but I did today. Hopefully it stays dry. 

here it is, the first coat of Seattle Gray. Nothing like a new paint job to show me how bad a fiberglass layer I am! Someday i will go back and get all the bumps and bobbles out of it. For now, she'll fish.


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## Rat (May 18, 2010)

From this: To this:


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## Brine (May 18, 2010)

Wow Rat, that looks really good.

Nice Job! =D>


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## Wildman (May 19, 2010)

Looking like we need to get it a bit slimmed and bloody. Oh, and anchor dented. Yea I owe you a ding.


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## JohnnyBoy99 (May 19, 2010)

That really looks nice. I'm gonna be priming and painting mine is just a couple days and i was wondering.. 
when you primed it did you just use a brush? 
And also did you paint it with spray gun? 
and would you recommend doing it that way.


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## Rat (May 19, 2010)

JohnnyBoy99 said:


> That really looks nice. I'm gonna be priming and painting mine is just a couple days and i was wondering..
> when you primed it did you just use a brush?
> And also did you paint it with spray gun?
> and would you recommend doing it that way.



For the Primer I used a high density foam roller, the 4" one; you can even see it in one of the pictures above. For the paint I used the same roller and had planned to 'tip' it with a brush. But the paint is self leveling and I didn't need to tip it at all; it straightened right out very well. I did use a foam brush/blotter to get the corners and impossible-to-reach-with-a-brush areas. The foam brushes worked perfectly. 

I have never sprayed any paint so I really can't tell ya how that goes. I do know that you generally get less coverage if you spray versus roll and tip. If you have access to a spray set up I think it would work great. Make sure to use the right reducer for what you are doing; the Brightside I used calls for different reducers; 333 for brushing and 216 (I think) for spraying. use the right one and you will be good to go. 

4" foam roller

One of the secrets to a nice prime/paint job is very thin layers. By using a high density roller you are laying down a very thin layer of paint. this allows the paint to dry faster and also prevents sagging (runs) on vertical surfaces and pooling on horizontal surfaces. It is better to apply 4 very thin layers of paint then two very thick layers of paint, all else being equal.


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## Loggerhead Mike (May 19, 2010)

slick job buddy she's goin to be a yaught before long


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## blazinmoto (May 19, 2010)

Almost to nice to get dirty! Great job


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## JohnnyBoy99 (May 19, 2010)

Rat said:


> JohnnyBoy99 said:
> 
> 
> > That really looks nice. I'm gonna be priming and painting mine is just a couple days and i was wondering..
> ...




Okay, thanks for that. I think what i am going to do is at minimum go with spray the paint. But think i may do the primer a different way. I'm wanting to know if anyone knows if i apply the primer with a high density roller willl it take away from the even all over look you get from a sprayer, or if i should use the sprayer to prime it?


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## Rat (May 20, 2010)

If you are going to spray the paint then spray the primer as well. Roll and tip will give you as good, or better, finish than spraying. Of the three custom boat builders I know, one builds quarter million dollar sailing hulls, they all use roll and tip for primer and paint. Either way you will be good.


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## Rat (May 20, 2010)

BTW, I got the second coat of paint on yesterday and also got some rod holders built; only eight more to go! :shock:


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## Rat (May 20, 2010)

Alright, I got most of the Kiwigrip down, the part on the decks anyway. I didn't order enough for the cockpit, but I need to figure out my seating first. Here are tonights Images. Kiwigrip is like Love; it covers a multitude of sins!


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## ncfishin (May 20, 2010)

man that looks just like dookie. Just playing. that is something new. I been following your build the whole time. little longer than i expected, but the finished product is killer. hopefully this will inspire folks to shy from carpet, and mess with the wood some more. you built it, sealed it, and then presented it with the paint. Great job. Now lets hear how it works on the water. I'll be the first to give you your proppers. damn fine job.


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## wolfmjc (May 20, 2010)

looks great, like that top nonslip layer! cool!


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## perchin (May 21, 2010)

How much does that kiwi grip run?


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## Rat (May 21, 2010)

7hanks y'all. Yea, she has taken a little longer than I expected, but I'm in the HVAC business and I just can't get much done during the Summer, then we had the rains in the Winter, then my buddy got married...Anyway, she's starting to shape up nicely. 

Kiwigrip runs $50 a quart and $136 a gallon with shipping: You can find it at Boatbuildercentral.com
Kiwigrip link
I use a mixing stick to dole out clumps over the area to be covered and then use a notched spreader, 1/8th inch notches, to spread it around evenly; then use the loop-goopy roller (comes with the Kiwigrip) to roll it out. It's pretty easy to apply and has great coverage and slip resistance.


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## Anonymous (May 21, 2010)

wow - that is sharp ! 

This place always impresses me.


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## CHILLWILLATX (May 21, 2010)

You can't go wrong with those cabin lights..... I don't know what I would do with out Acamedy? I have the same switch box- did you buy your bus bars from Acamedy also?


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## Loggerhead Mike (May 21, 2010)

never seen the kiwi grip before, looks sharp!


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## blazinmoto (May 21, 2010)

That looks simply amazing. Once again Rat, you keep raising the bar.


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## Rat (May 22, 2010)

CHILLWILLATX said:


> You can't go wrong with those cabin lights..... I don't know what I would do with out Acamedy? I have the same switch box- did you buy your bus bars from Acamedy also?


Yea, most of the hardware came from Academy and Cabelas in Buda. Of course, Academy is closer, so I go more often to Academy and they have as good a price as Cabelas; just not the huge selection. 

I got her on the water this weekend, full write up coming soon.


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## Rat (May 23, 2010)

It's always the little things. I rushed home early from work to finish the boat enough to get a weekend camping and fishing trip in. I knew it wasn't going to be perfectly complete, with no seats, and only a few rod holders. So after Patrick and his two boys arrived all five of us headed to Lake Georgetown for the Shake Down cruise. 

The fist thing after the launch that was painfully obvious was that we were taking on water at a pretty rapid rate. No problem said I, we have a bilge pump; flip switch...nothing! Flip switch a hundred more times, pull panel check fuses, check wires; all seems fine, but still no pump. So I hit the lake at full throttle and pull the plug to drain the water. Get back to the dock load everyone up and head to camp. 

After we got unloaded and camp set up I headed out alone to find the source of the water leaks. I had neglected to seal some of the rivet holes where I removed stuff from the transom, like the handles. There are five or six big ole holes not sealed and that is where the water was coming from. The bilge also started working while I was out there and has worked the whole time since, I don't know what was wrong with it. 

So Saturday we hit a couple of spots looking for crappie, and ended up catching a few, but the wind was pretty wicked and the boat traffic was high. We ended up heading over to some big rocks up river and swimming for a few hours; letting the kids jump from the rocks and get sunburnt. We had a good time,even if we did need to run the bilge every hour or so to get rid of water. 

The trolling motor also pounded loose in the heavy water. The self tapping screws I used just pulled out. I need to use toggle bolts something in that Alu. to get a real good hold. I think the seating is going to work out okay; especially when we only have three on board. Five people is too many in this boat for any type of seating; no matter what you will be crowded. But for three people my seating arrangement will be fine. The seats are on order and I need to do a little prep work before they get here. But I will keep everyone posted. 

Trim of the hull is very good. With just me and Gage it sits perfect in the water. The motor is in the perfect position and I am playing with the tilt for that perfect ride. The Transducer sprays water all over the place. With just me in the boat and all the fishing gear, we ran a little better than 18 MPH on GPS. 

So I have a little work to get her ready, but all in all it was a good shake down cruise. 

Pictures, of course...


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## Brine (May 23, 2010)

Good write up Rat. Sorry to hear about the water coming in, but sounds like you've got a handle on the leaks. 

I'm anxious to hear how the mud washes off of the kiwi-grip. I'd be fairly "excitable" if that was all over my new carpet. Still haven't decided on the best product for me though.


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## ober51 (May 23, 2010)

Shiza, that's a lot of water. Hope you get that settled and enjoy the rig.


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## Rat (May 23, 2010)

Brine said:


> Good write up Rat. Sorry to hear about the water coming in, but sounds like you've got a handle on the leaks.
> 
> I'm anxious to hear how the mud washes off of the kiwi-grip. I'd be fairly "excitable" if that was all over my new carpet. Still haven't decided on the best product for me though.



Yea, it was aggravating to pump water every hour or so, but wasn't that bad I guess. I've had to it on some of the bigger lakes around here when I stayed out longer than I should have and got caught by a front. 

I washed her down just now and the mud came off pretty easily. I just used the water hose and a soft bristled brush; only required about 20 minutes of work.







The one picture with all the water in the boat is after it sat all night beached.

One of the main reasons I wanted this type of finish is just why you see here. And in fact, this is pretty mild compared to a four day hunt at Granger; throw hog blood, fish slime and kids into the mix and carpet becomes a nightmare. So it performs perfectly for its intended use, it looks good and its easy to clean. I even had a guy at the courtesy dock asking me a bunch of questions on my rebuilt Jon, pretty cool.


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## bluegillfisher (May 24, 2010)

I think a boat looks better with mud and slime on it. 
Nice job.


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## huntinfool (May 24, 2010)

'bout time! Looking good! I told you that the Skid no more would have been better. We had a customer try the Kiwi grip. Easy to install, but does not clean as good. Besides the Skid no more is much cheaper($60)and cleans easier with just a hose. Boat looks great and sorry to hear about the leaks (rookie mistake :LOL2: )Beside it gives you a reason to work on it a bit more. Does the rear of your boat sit in the water that low? (i guess it is just because you had 5 people in it) I finally got a trolling motor and I should have it installed this week. Then for now I am done. But I have plans for a center console and a floor and I just got a plastic tank that I am contemplating putting in the rear seat as a livewell. Should be interesting. 

The bilge issue could have been too much grease inside the switch. Sometimes you have to switch them several times to make a good connection. But I would probably guess that it is a ground issue. Usually is. Never heard from you on the crappie bite at granger. But glad to hear you have her on the water.


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## Wildman (May 24, 2010)

Yea, pretty soon you will see why I wash MF at the river. COOL BUILD BRO! Now you need to fix a few holes and I will go on the "next" trip. =D> =D> =D> =D> =D>


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