# Gluvit with no bottom paint?



## sej71 (May 16, 2018)

I'm grinding down my 14 Ft V bottom boat right now to bare aluminum so that I can put Gluvit on all the seams and rivits. I definitely plan on priming and painting the top side down to the 1st rib but I'm debating on leaving the bottom bare for now. Mostly so that I'll be able to monitor how the Gluvit is holding up and work on any problem areas without having to grind through primer and paint again, and then have to make it all look good again...

I'm doing a major bass boat conversion this winter so I was thinking I'd bottom coat then once I see how the Gluvit did. I know Gluvit is UV sensitive tho and my main concern is the front V that curves up to the bow, it's pretty much the only area I can see getting much of any sun.

Would it be really bad to wait till fall without protecting the Gluvit on the bottom side?

Thanks! 

Sent from my SM-G955W using Tapatalk


----------



## wmrmurphy (May 16, 2018)

That's a good question. They do say that Gluvit does not do well exposed to UV and to paint anything exposed... personally, I guess I'd believe them.


----------



## CedarRiverScooter (May 16, 2018)

If it is leaking, maybe a better plan would be to rebuck the rivets. Putting sealer over them won't stop any relative motion you get from hitting waves, etc.

Just another viewpoint.


----------



## sej71 (May 16, 2018)

That's an interesting idea, I've never done that before. Would you just do them all? I don't really see any that are lose at all. I actually think the leak is coming in from a seam. 

Sent from my SM-G955W using Tapatalk


----------



## RStewart (May 16, 2018)

Gluvit goes on the inside of the boat. After making sure no rivets are leaking, coat the inside seams with the gluvit. Your best bet when you do it is to tilt the boat in different directions to let the gluvit seep into the seams really good.


----------



## CedarRiverScooter (May 17, 2018)

I would just rebuck the rivets in the leaking seam. Search the site for how-to on the process. I think there is a special tool you can get that makes it easier.


----------



## DaleH (May 17, 2018)

I would not use Gluvit on the bottom of a hull. For seams there I’d use something else. I also believe Gluvit isn’t the best choice for tin boats.

There are better and less expensive alternates to Gluvit, like West Systems G-Flex 650, which is a flexible epoxy, $20 for 8-ounce kit. Steel-Flex is another choice for larger areas. 

Any requires the surface to be properly prepped AND primed. And *epoxies must be top-coated for protection from UV*.


----------



## sej71 (May 17, 2018)

DaleH said:


> I would not use Gluvit on the bottom of a hull. For seams there I’d use something else. I also believe Gluvit isn’t the best choice for tin boats.
> 
> There are better and less expensive alternates to Gluvit, like West Systems G-Flex 650, which is a flexible epoxy, $20 for 8-ounce kit. Steel-Flex is another choice for larger areas.
> 
> Any requires the surface to be properly prepped AND primed. And *epoxies must be top-coated for protection from UV*.


Ya I just discovered G-flex today and am considering it. I like the Steel Flex too especially since I can get pigments. It looks like I could just do 2 coats of it on bare aluminum and be done. Would you still use G-flex on the rivits and seams before painting on the Steel Flex? Thanks DaleH

Sent from my SM-G955W using Tapatalk


----------



## DaleH (May 17, 2018)

sej71 said:


> It looks like I could just do 2 coats of it on bare aluminum and be done. Would you still use G-flex on the rivits and seams before painting on the Steel Flex?


FWIW,* I'd NEVER apply *any epoxy, paint or sealant to any unprimed tin surface ... 

If you use the steel-flex, you don't need the G-Flex. Read this article on sealing leaks with G-Flex, as you should be able to use the same technique: https://www.forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=40954


----------



## sej71 (May 17, 2018)

That's pretty cool DaleH, thanks! I'll have to reconsider what I'm gonna do. 

Sent from my SM-G955W using Tapatalk


----------



## sej71 (May 17, 2018)

So I just got off the phone with Fasco tech support and they said:

1. As long as the boat is sanded down good and is rough, I don't need a primer. I'm wire brushing the whole boat, so I think I'm good.

2. The Steel Flex is pretty thick and will cover rivits and seams very well, and stop leaks without the need for any other fillers or Epoxies. He did suggest a product called Fast Stone to fill any bigger holes first but it's pretty tough to work with and is tough to sand once hardened. I'm gonna fill the few spots I have with with Quick Aluminum and said that would be fine.

3. He recommended rolling the Steel Flex on with a 3/8" nap roller. I'm gonna go with 2 coats to make sure everything is covered well. He said the 2nd coat should go on as soon as its tacky, which is usually within 1-2 hrs. Otherwise, I'd need to let it dry completely and sand it all down before the 2nd coat. 

4. He says the Steel Flex doesn't give the best finish. I think I'm going to do the whole boat with it just for piece of mind. He suggested to sand down the Steel Flex and use a topside paint and whatever primer recommended for it. I spoke to Interlux and I think i'm going to use Interlux Epoxy Primekote to prime and then topside with Interlux Brightside.

This is what I'm leaning towards now. I might actually skip #4 for now (depending on how bad it looks) so I can get on the water soon. I'm doing a big conversion this winter so maybe I'll prime and paint the topside once I'm done. We'll see. 

Sent from my SM-G955W using Tapatalk


----------



## RStewart (May 17, 2018)

Gluvit works fine on aluminum boats. The guys that restore old aluminum boats on another site use it all the time. Unless it's going to be exposed to the sun UV rays aren't an issue. I've used steel flex and it's ok. I wasn't impressed by the pigment, it faded pretty quick. You must get every area that steel flex will touch prepped very good or it will come off. I know this first hand. I will use gluvit on the inside of the hull next time I redo my boat and will not be using the steel flex again. If you do use steel flex then you don't need any other type of sealant, same with gluvit. Either one will work but from what I've seen and experienced I'll choose gluvit next time.


----------



## sej71 (May 17, 2018)

RStewart said:


> Gluvit works fine on aluminum boats. The guys that restore old aluminum boats on another site use it all the time. Unless it's going to be exposed to the sun UV rays aren't an issue. I've used steel flex and it's ok. I wasn't impressed by the pigment, it faded pretty quick. You must get every area that steel flex will touch prepped very good or it will come off. I know this first hand. I will use gluvit on the inside of the hull next time I redo my boat and will not be using the steel flex again. If you do use steel flex then you don't need any other type of sealant, same with gluvit. Either one will work but from what I've seen and experienced I'll choose gluvit next time.


Well I might need to go with the Gluvit after all, I'm up in Canada and can't find anyone who ships it here  I'm waiting a few companies to get back to me but it's not looking good. My best chance seems to be a company on ebay buy they jack the price up quite a bit. I was leaning towards the Steelflex Super Slick. If I do 2 coats it looks like it'll cost me over $500 to get 2 gallons and pigment up here 

Idk, that price is pretty crazy. I think I might either stay with the Gluvit or look into the G-flex. 

Sent from my SM-G955W using Tapatalk


----------



## Tinny Fleet (May 18, 2018)

I researched this a few years ago and learned that the optimum solution was to use Gluvit on the inside and the West Marine epoxy product on the outside of the boat. Have done three boats so far. Painted all three inside and out with regular (rustoleum or krylon) or the Wetlander.


----------



## sej71 (May 18, 2018)

Tinny Fleet said:


> I researched this a few years ago and learned that the optimum solution was to use Gluvit on the inside and the West Marine epoxy product on the outside of the boat. Have done three boats so far. Painted all three inside and out with regular (rustoleum or krylon) or the Wetlander.


Interesting, did you prime before you painted Tinny? 

Sent from my SM-G955W using Tapatalk


----------



## sej71 (May 18, 2018)

I discovered https://crossborderpickups.ca can bring Fasco Steelflex up to Canada for me. 

Fasco keeps saying to do 2 coats, so now I'm thinking a base coat of regular Steelflex and the the 2nd coat Super Slick to keep the cost down. Idk, I'm still debating it. 

Sent from my SM-G955W using Tapatalk


----------



## RStewart (May 18, 2018)

sej71 said:


> RStewart said:
> 
> 
> > Gluvit works fine on aluminum boats. The guys that restore old aluminum boats on another site use it all the time. Unless it's going to be exposed to the sun UV rays aren't an issue. I've used steel flex and it's ok. I wasn't impressed by the pigment, it faded pretty quick. You must get every area that steel flex will touch prepped very good or it will come off. I know this first hand. I will use gluvit on the inside of the hull next time I redo my boat and will not be using the steel flex again. If you do use steel flex then you don't need any other type of sealant, same with gluvit. Either one will work but from what I've seen and experienced I'll choose gluvit next time.
> ...



The other site I get on where I learned about gluvit has a lot of guys from Canada redoing old aluminum boats. Most of these guys restore old StarCraft boats and such. I would post it here but I'm not sure Jim would want me to post about another forum here. I don't think he would care but some site owners don't like it.


----------



## Tinny Fleet (Jul 25, 2018)

Priming Gluvit? Interesting question. I wouldn't have thought so, but just coated the bottom of an old Starcraft, and between coats, I noticed that where I had patched with Gluvit the coating would not take properly. Now I am in the middle of reworking the Gluvit area: first sand, then apply self etching primer. Then coating in the right color to match the rest of it (that's a long story there, just by itself, but nothing to do with Gluvit ) So YES, I would definitely sand and prime Gluvit before applying a coat.

I have had no such problems on the outside of the boat with the West products, which I also use.

Bottom line: Gluvit works best for me on the interior of my tinny's, and the west products on the exterior. Lessons learned the hard way.


----------



## RStewart (Feb 12, 2019)

Yep, Gluvit is for the inside of the boat. Just have to coat seams and rivets.


----------

