# 9.5 Johnson



## ENIRB

Picked this up from CL, so I could hopefully get out into more prime waters.
I checked the top cylinder for spark before buying, but got lost in conversation and didn't check the bottom one.

Johnson 9.5hp Short Shaft Tiller
Model- MQ-14D (Unsure what the D stands for?)
Serial- J2965779
From what I have seen that puts this as a 1968 motor...

Long story short, will fire for a moment with the aid of starting fluid (I know bad ju-ju).
Top cylinder is sparking.
Bottom cylinder is not.

Spark plug holes have been sleeved- so a new head is on the shopping list as well.
Hint Hint if someone has one or knows of one lying around.
For the time being since I don't have the cash to throw at a new head I would like to get by without replacing that immediately as the plugs look good as of now.

I would like to fix the spark issue, but am new to working on outboards and am unsure where to begin.
Will I need special tools to remove/install new condenser/magneto/points?
How long does it typically take to change these items out?

I appreciate any insight!


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## f1maxis

With no spark, I would certainly lean towards the coils if they've not been replaced recently. The coils, points and condensers are relatively easy to replace once you get the flywheel off. If I were you, I would go ahead and replace them all while you're in there especially if you don't know the last time they were changed. The parts are inexpensive (coils are $20 or so a piece and a tune-up kit with new points and condensers is around $20 as well) and pretty easy to find. Your local NAPA store can order most of these parts (Sierra) for you. The only special tools you should need are a flywheel puller (make sure to use the kind that uses the 3 bolt holes) and a torque wrench (can borrow from AutoZone if needed). When you replace the flywheel, be sure to torque the flywheel nut to the recommended factory specs or you risk damaging the crankshaft, woodruff key and/or flywheel. I learned this the hard way once!


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## f1maxis

Also...you can find parts diagrams, part numbers, etc. for your motor here:

https://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1968&hp=9.5&model=MQ-14D


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## ENIRB

f1maxis said:


> With no spark, I would certainly lean towards the coils if they've not been replaced recently. The coils, points and condensers are relatively easy to replace once you get the flywheel off. If I were you, I would go ahead and replace them all while you're in there especially if you don't know the last time they were changed. The parts are inexpensive (coils are $20 or so a piece and a tune-up kit with new points and condensers is around $20 as well) and pretty easy to find. Your local NAPA store can order most of these parts (Sierra) for you. The only special tools you should need are a flywheel puller (make sure to use the kind that uses the 3 bolt holes) and a torque wrench (can borrow from AutoZone if needed). When you replace the flywheel, be sure to torque the flywheel nut to the recommended factory specs or you risk damaging the crankshaft, woodruff key and/or flywheel. I learned this the hard way once!



Thanks for the advice, I will most likely just replace everything like you mentioned, since I'm in there anyways.

This link:
https://www.maxrules.com/fixtuneitup.html
... shows them using a steering wheel puller/harmonic puller, is that sufficient?


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## f1maxis

Yep, that one should work just fine. Basically just about any puller that uses the 3 bolts holes in the flywheel instead of pulling on the outside surface of it. I use a $10 "harmonic balancer" puller from NAPA and it works great.


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## ENIRB

I'm ordering parts on friday, any special torque value's or specifics that need loc-tited?

Trying to have everything in order beforehand so I don't have to keep coming inside to post questions, and wait for responses #-o 

I'll do my best to remember to take pictures...


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## ENIRB

Another question:
Found a new cylinder head: $60 + $5 shipping.
Proclaimed to be in GREAT shape.

Reasonable?


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## f1maxis

ENIRB said:


> ...any special torque value's...?



Tightening torques (Inch-Pounds)

Connecting Rod...90-100
Crankcase Halves...120-145
Cylinder Head...96-120
Flywheel...480-540
Spark Plug...240-246

To convert to Foot-Pounds divide by 12.


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## DM613

Your local NAPA can order most of these pieces (Sierra) for you. The only special tools you need is a flywheel puller (be sure to use the type that uses the 3 bolt holes) and a torque wrench (can borrow from AutoZone, if necessary). When replacing the wheel, be sure to tighten the flywheel nut to factory specifications recommended as it can damage the crankshaft key and / or steering wheel. I learned the hard way once!


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## ENIRB

F1Maxis - Thanks for the link to the parts diagram, ordered from that company (sierra parts), saved me 10$ or so compared to other websites.

I ordered new coils, points, condensers.
As soon as I get the parts in I'll begin the repairs.

Also, do you think $60 for the used cylinder head is reasonable?


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## f1maxis

ENIRB"Also said:


> If it's in great shape and doesn't need any work, that sounds reasonable to me.


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## cajuncook1

ENIRB said:


> F1Maxis -
> *
> Also, do you think $60 for the used cylinder head is reasonable?*




Try posting a webvertise ad on AOMCI website, it is free and the members are honest and have decent prices. I certainly think you could do much cheaper than $60 for a good condition cylinder head cover, even with shipping.

https://www.aomci.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?board=Webvertize

This fellow may have some at a decent price. I have dealt with him the past and have had fair dealing with him.

BLC Marine

Bobby "BLC" Chapman
Buy & Sell Marine Equipment
Any condition
Specializing in OMC outboard
Dickinson, Texas

[email protected]

281-337-1805
713-705-0664
806-256-2089


Here is a list of outboard savage yards around the US that you can contact by email.
www.sea-way.com
www.outboard-parts.com
www.laingsoutboards.com
www.tcoutboard.com
www.fairwindsmarina.com
www.salvagemarine.com
www.marinepartsoutlet.com
www.outboardexchange.com
www.Superior Marine (800-338-9281)
www.budgetboats.net
www.americanoutboard.com
www.piratemarinesalvage.com
www.trixieslanding.com
www.mmmarinesalvage.com


Good luck


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## ENIRB

cajuncook1 said:


> ENIRB said:
> 
> 
> 
> F1Maxis -
> *
> Also, do you think $60 for the used cylinder head is reasonable?*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Try posting a webvertise ad on AOMCI website, it is free and the members are honest and have decent prices. I certainly think you could do much cheaper than $60 for a good condition cylinder head cover, even with shipping.
> 
> https://www.aomci.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?board=Webvertize
> 
> This fellow may have some at a decent price. I have dealt with him the past and have had fair dealing with him.
> 
> BLC Marine
> 
> Bobby "BLC" Chapman
> Buy & Sell Marine Equipment
> Any condition
> Specializing in OMC outboard
> Dickinson, Texas
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> 281-337-1805
> 713-705-0664
> 806-256-2089
> 
> 
> Here is a list of outboard savage yards around the US that you can contact by email.
> https://www.sea-way.com
> https://www.outboard-parts.com
> https://www.laingsoutboards.com
> https://www.tcoutboard.com
> https://www.fairwindsmarina.com
> https://www.salvagemarine.com
> https://www.marinepartsoutlet.com
> https://www.outboardexchange.com
> https://www.Superior Marine (800-338-9281)
> https://www.budgetboats.net
> https://www.americanoutboard.com
> https://www.piratemarinesalvage.com
> https://www.trixieslanding.com
> https://www.mmmarinesalvage.com
> 
> 
> Good luck
Click to expand...



Thanks great information, I will email that gentleman as well.


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## ENIRB

I got all the new parts installed, going to pickup a torque wrench/feeler guage tomorrow so I can check gap, and put the flywheel back on.

There is a small wick type part that I replaced as well, is that supposed to keep the cam clean, or should I lubricate it to ensure lubrication?


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## cajuncook1

Here is a diagram of a generic OMC (Johnson/Evinrudle/Gale) ignition assembly. You will have to remove the coil designated for the top cylinder and put the oil wicker in. It should be already be coated with a very light oil. (not grease). The purpose of the oil wicker is to lightly lubricate the outside riding surface of the cam so the point shoes do not prematurely wear. If you look at the points they have little shoes that ride along the cam. 







FYI: You can only set(gap) one set of points at a time. Put the flywheel nut back on(turn with a wrench or ratchet clockwise) to allow you turn the crankshaft. *(Please remove both spark plugs to make it easier to turn the crankshaft and prevent accidental starting) *

You gap the point to 0.020 when the point shoes is at the top(high point of the cam). It should have a mark along with the word top. Then you will turn clockwise to the next set of point 180 degrees and set those points the same way. You will notice that the point of the previous set will be closed and when you come around again they will open up. *** When they are open no current is allow through. This is how you set your timing with the points.*** 

When you go to set the point's gap. Very gently snug the anchor screw, then adjust the gap with adjusting screw and the feeler gauge until the feeler gauge is sliding through with slight resistance only. Then tighten the anchor screw. Repeat procedure with second set of points. Please make sure your hands are clean and the feeler gauge is clean, because oil on the points can foul them up and create resistance....poor or no no spark. ALways use a spark check to evaluate spark. It should jump minimum 1/4 inch. Blue sharp snappy spark.

Here is a picture of a spark check...Cheap $6







Here is a picture of how to tell which wire is going to the correct cylinder.








If your using the existing wires then cut about 1/4 inch of end going the coil, so you have clean un-oxidized copper contacting the spiking in the coil. Twist the end of the spark plug wire onto the coil spike. If you have replaced the wires, make sure they are 7mm copper metal core and not the automobile stuff.

***** Please make sure two things*****

1.) Make sure all the wires are tucked away under the flywheel and not rubbing up against the cam or crank, because with will eventually get damage and create a short, then no spark!! Be sure to reconnect the stop wires back on correctly.

2.) Make sure the coil heels (ends) are evenly lined up with the mounting boss.

Here are some pictures. (Compliments of JBJennings..nice fella)











Lining up the coil heel with the mounting boss prevent damage of the coils and the flywheel magnet, prevent rubbing as the flywheel turns.


I hope this helps ya out! Might have gone overboard a bit but wanted to make sure you had a good idea.


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## ENIRB

cajuncook1 said:


> Here is a diagram of a generic OMC (Johnson/Evinrudle/Gale) ignition assembly. You will have to remove the coil designated for the top cylinder and put the oil wicker in. It should be already be coated with a very light oil. (not grease). The purpose of the oil wicker is to lightly lubricate the outside riding surface of the cam so the point shoes do not prematurely wear. If you look at the points they have little shoes that ride along the cam.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FYI: You can only set(gap) one set of points at a time. Put the flywheel nut back on(turn with a wrench or ratchet clockwise) to allow you turn the crankshaft. *(Please remove both spark plugs to make it easier to turn the crankshaft and prevent accidental starting) *
> 
> You gap the point to 0.020 when the point shoes is at the top(high point of the cam). It should have a mark along with the word top. Then you will turn clockwise to the next set of point 180 degrees and set those points the same way. You will notice that the point of the previous set will be closed and when you come around again they will open up. *** When they are open no current is allow through. This is how you set your timing with the points.***
> 
> When you go to set the point's gap. Very gently snug the anchor screw, then adjust the gap with adjusting screw and the feeler gauge until the feeler gauge is sliding through with slight resistance only. Then tighten the anchor screw. Repeat procedure with second set of points. Please make sure your hands are clean and the feeler gauge is clean, because oil on the points can foul them up and create resistance....poor or no no spark. ALways use a spark check to evaluate spark. It should jump minimum 1/4 inch. Blue sharp snappy spark.
> 
> Here is a picture of a spark check...Cheap $6
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a picture of how to tell which wire is going to the correct cylinder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If your using the existing wires then cut about 1/4 inch of end going the coil, so you have clean un-oxidized copper contacting the spiking in the coil. Twist the end of the spark plug wire onto the coil spike. If you have replaced the wires, make sure they are 7mm copper metal core and not the automobile stuff.
> 
> ***** Please make sure two things*****
> 
> 1.) Make sure all the wires are tucked away under the flywheel and not rubbing up against the cam or crank, because with will eventually get damage and create a short, then no spark!! Be sure to reconnect the stop wires back on correctly.
> 
> 2.) Make sure the coil heels (ends) are evenly lined up with the mounting boss.
> 
> Here are some pictures. (Compliments of JBJennings..nice fella)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lining up the coil heel with the mounting boss prevent damage of the coils and the flywheel magnet, prevent rubbing as the flywheel turns.
> 
> 
> I hope this helps ya out! Might have gone overboard a bit but wanted to make sure you had a good idea.



Cajun GREAT INSTRUCTIONS!
Thanks, I did install the new wicker, but it didn't seem oiled to me (granted I had gloves on).

I will be finishing this tomorrow evening hopefully.
Would like to be using motor Tues weather permitting.

Thanks again, that was very very helpful!


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## cajuncook1

If your oil wicker is dry, you can add a couple of drops of light oil on it. If you are ever back in the ignition system at a later date you can always refresh the oil wicker as stated above.

Hope things go well.


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## ENIRB

Well, I went back and checked to make sure the coils were seated properly so as not to contact the flywheel... good thing I did, thanks for the tip.
Torqued everything down, spark was incredible.

Hook up the fuel line, pump to build pressure, pull, pull, pull, pull, pull... nothing.
Squirt of Starting Fluid (I know I know), pull *sputter*, pull *idle for 2 seconds*.
Drain carb to make sure fuels at least getting there.
Pull, pull, pull, pull... nothing.

WAIT A SECOND...

wtf...


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## ENIRB

So...

The low speed mixture knob is obviously missing, but that adjustment wouldn't have an immediate effect of the engine starting would it?

I know what's coming next, a removal and overhaul of the carb, I've got the Carb Dip ready, but would like a walk-through, or an exploded view.

This is just an example of my luck, seriously.

Any help would be appreciated guys, or donations to the fund (jk).


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## ENIRB

Oh, and how do I go about replacing the recoil rope?


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## cajuncook1

PM me your email. I can send more detailed instructions in the morning.


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## cajuncook1

Go to Auto Zone or similar store, they loan out a compression gauge with a deposit. Check your compression on your top and bottom cylinder. Just wanting you make sure you do not have compression issues. You can wrap a pull rope around the flywheel and manual pull until you get your spring starter repaired.
*
Here is a link to show how to do a compression test.* ***Please let me know what the compression value is*** You may have to pull the rope 4 or 5 times to get maximum compression reading and pull on the rope like you mean to start it. Reminder, remove both spark plugs then test one cylinder at a time.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PyCw4SiuT2I

*Here is the part number for the carburetor kit for your motor. There is no Sierra or aftermarket kit. Only OMC kit availabel for the this motor.
*
*
Carburetor kit part number* = 382048

*Here is link and parts diagram for your motor and where you can by your parts at a decent price.
*
https://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1968&hp=9.5&model=MQ-14D
*
Here are some carburetor settings.*



> Carb Needle Adjustments For Asorted Carb Variations by Joe Reeves
> 
> these adjustment are for the older engine. 1980 and earlier, and the current small hp ob's. not for fixed jet outboards.
> 
> 
> (Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
> (J. Reeves)
> 
> Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently(turn in clockwise), then open 1-1/2 turns(turn out counter clockwise). Do not tighten or force the slow idle needle shut or it may damage the needle.
> 
> Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in (clockwise). Wait a few seconds (10 to 15 sec) for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in(clockwise), the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again (turn your throttle slightly slower) to where the engine will just stay running.
> 
> Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out(turn out counter clockwise) the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.
> 
> When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.


*
Check your email*....there will be something labelled We Transfer. It is web service that will send a link to your email address and allow to down load files up to 2 gigabits in size. If you don't see check your junk/spam mail fold just in case. Don't worry it is safe to use service(free), I use it quite often and no problems.


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## cajuncook1

Oh forgot to ask if you were choking the motor when you tried starting it? Use premixed fuel instead os the starter fluid. 

Any way the information i sent ought to keep you entertained. 8)


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## ENIRB

Got the email, downloaded the file, but have yet to look at it as I had to come into work.
I have the next few days off so hopefully will have more information for you Mon/Tues.
Thanks for the help! 

Thanks again, and will respond more tomorrow.

I will be ordering the carb kit tomorrow as well - thanks for the link- same site I ordered the other parts from as well, I just couldn't find the all in one kit for some reason.


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## ENIRB

cajuncook1 said:


> Oh forgot to ask if you were choking the motor when you tried starting it? Use premixed fuel instead os the starter fluid.
> 
> Any way the information i sent ought to keep you entertained. 8)



I tried choked, partial choke, no choke...
I'm going to repair the rope in the morning hopefully, and then will do more diagnostics.

*I'm sure there is a different way to do this, but here is my plan:*I'm going to pull the rope out all the way (still connected to recoil mechanism).
Put a wood clamp on the sleeve that the rope wraps around to hold it in place (with rope extended out).
Remove old rope.
Insert new rope in its place (attaching the handle to the new rope as well).
Remove wood clamp.
Proceed to compression testing.

Sound realistic?
I don't see why it wouldn't work...


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## cajuncook1

The information I sent you has a walk by walk of how to change the starter rope and gives the size and length of rope you need.  Sounds like your heading in the right direction. 8)


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## ENIRB

cajuncook1 said:


> The information I sent you has a walk by walk of how to change the starter rope and gives the size and length of rope you need.  Sounds like your heading in the right direction. 8)



Yeah, I have 2 hrs to work on the motor (during workdays), and 8 hrs to think about working on the motor. :roll: 
I just keep telling myself my luck'll turn around...


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## cajuncook1

ENIRB,

I know you want her running good and quickly, but you are learning to repair your own motor. Not too many other guys can say that. To top it off, the work you do is not costing you $85 /hr. You will know your motor a lot better and be able to keep her up. It beats paying couple of grand for a motor that you can do little for because it requires a lot computer diagnostics. 

The motors from the 1950-mid 80's are great to work with. Especially the 1950 to 1960 motors. Very very simple and easy to maintain as well. Most of us just want a reliable motor and one easy to maintain, so we can get to the fishing hole and back.


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## ENIRB

Got the new rope in her.

My local store here doesn't loan out compression testers, so it will have to wait until I make it into HF in town.
Additionally, I have the old head on there still that has the thread inserts (which are stuck to one of the sparkplugs), so testing would be difficult as best - at least until I order and install a new cylinder head.

Someone have the link to Bill aka BLC... he doesn't have one available.
I haven't tried other sources yet in my search for a good cylinder head besides the original finding of 60$.

I put some mixed fuel into the carb and she fired first pull... but of course that lasted mere seconds.
Wouldn't that put the problem in the carb? I am planning on ordering the kit tonight.

I might tinker a little later and pull the fuel filter...

I understand what you mean about rebuilding it myself, and I completely agree. As I've repaired and rebuilt things over the years it gives you a sense of pride, self-worth, and forms a bond between man and machine.


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## cajuncook1

Check your PM, I have located a cylinder head for your motor through a forum member on AOMCI website for a good price. He is a decent fellow. I will send you his information.


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## SVOMike86

Hey, thanks for all the great info for this motor, I have a '69. About the carb rebuild- not including soak time, it took me all of 15 minutes to rebuild it, it was 10 times easier than what I thought it would be. Also replaced the impeller in about 15-20 minutes. Mine starts right up now and runs super smooth all the way through the rpm range, but I put it on a friends 12ft V for a test run and it'll run at WOT for 100-200 yards then just die, it doesnt sputter or anything, it shuts off like the flick of a switch. So I'm guessing I've got some sort of electrical short, maybe kill switch. Keep us updated on your motor Man, I'm anxious to see how it turns out.


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## ENIRB

cajuncook1 said:


> Check your PM, I have located a cylinder head for your motor through a forum member on AOMCI website for a good price. He is a decent fellow. I will send you his information.



Got the PM.
I emailed the gentleman yesterday early afternoon, if he doesn't reply by Thurs. I just give him a ring.
Thanks yet again, huge help and motivation!


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## ENIRB

1 382048 -- CARB REP KIT 0382048
1 18-3003 -- Impeller 18-3003

Put my order in, got the impeller because I figured might as well... being charged 10$ shipping regardless.
If it needs it I'll install it, if it doesn't I'll change it out regardless in the winter as preventive maintenance.

So hopefully by next week I'll have it.

I didn't see an impeller kit... so hopefully that's all I needed?


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## cajuncook1

Just as an FYI. The 9.5hp series motor is an compact and low style motor, so getting to things are a bit cramped. Just be careful with parts and screws, because they can fall into the *abyss *of the motor housing. I'm sure you have noticed a dark space at the base of the motor. It is advisable to put something at the base (cloth) to prevent screws from going down there. :lol: 

A*nother couple of suggestions:*

The manual I sent you has a lot of good information even though it is a 1972, there where very few changes with this motor so it pretty much applies. Johnson and Evinrude are the same motor except for some cosmetic, decal or minor differences.

- If your going to take something apart use plenty of cheap zip lock bags and label them to keep parts organized and prevent from losing them.

- Use a digital camera to take a pictures of how it was before, so you can go back to compare or help you reassembly any parts or components.

- I will tell you that if you have to take off the exhaust (motor housing) it is a bit of work, but it can be done by using the zip lock bags and taking pictures to reflect and help guide reassembly.

The reason I am telling you this, is because the tiller linkage system is not like other OMC models of that era. The linkage is unique to that series of motor and has to be disassembled and removed carefully as well as the shift mechanism to removed the exhaust(motor) housing.

The manual does not cover the tiller linkage and shift linkage mechanisms very well, so you will have to take pictures and be very careful with the parts (there are many small washes and linkages). Carefully organize them in zip lock and label them well. Take all the digital pictures you need and from different angles to help you reorganized everything.

Just thought I would pass this along.


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## ENIRB

Copy that.
I appeciate the advise.

The contact emailed me back, sending him a check tomorrow.

I'm done for the day... 16hrs at work... going to the Legion with the Mrs for some grub-n-chug.

I will update more as soon as I receive parts in the mail.


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## cajuncook1

ENIRB said:


> Copy that.
> I appeciate the advise.
> 
> The contact emailed me back, sending him a check tomorrow.
> 
> I'm done for the day... 16hrs at work... going to the Legion with the Mrs for some grub-n-chug.
> 
> I will update more as soon as I receive parts in the mail.



Great, to hear new about the cylinder head progress and have a great evening with your wife. Have a couple of pints of beer for me!!! 8) 

FYI: It is advisable to get a new cylinder head gasket and clean the surface of the cylinder head well. 

When you can, keep me posted. I too work long shifts and on/off weekends as well!


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## ENIRB

Got the carb kit, and impeller in the mail this afternoon.
Will probably dig into it tonight or tomorrow possibly depending on the honey-do list.

I had completely forgotten about getting a new head gasket :twisted: wish I would have remembered so I could have bundled together to save another $10 shipping fee. Oh well.

Hoping to get this finished before THIS Wed. My wife's been saying she's "itchin' for fishin'".
She's dying to try her shiny new lures...


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## ENIRB

Starting on the carb rebuild tonight after work :wink: , will do my best to take pics along the way.

Sent payment out for the "new" cylinder head, so hopefully have that as well by weeks end.


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## ENIRB

Got the motor on the bench waiting...




Got the parts ready...




Cowl off...




















Carb Cleaner...




Companion...




Re-assembly Starts with suface prep...
















Waiting for morning test run...


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## ENIRB

Another problem?

Keep in mind I'm in a bucket, and outside temps are mid 70's.

Will only run with choke on.
I've only allowed it to run for 30 seconds at most, due to the fact no water was coming from the water outlet (that I noticed).

This engine (according to my reading) has a thermostat, should it have been open under these conditions?
Afterwards I could touch the engine, albeit hot, not enough to burn on contact.

I need to buy a new tank, as I fear mine has a leak somewhere allowing pressure to slowly escape.

Slow speed is roughly 2-3 turns out, I will adjust more properly later.

Anyways, not knowing compression at this point in time; why would I only be able to run on choke, and should it be pee'ing regardless?

I don't want to ruin it...

As always, thanks again for the help...


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## cajuncook1

Nice clean motor  . Will be able to review things this evening or tonight when I am off.


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## cajuncook1

Well, on the bright side you have started and run her!! Going to break your questions down and give some thoughts or suggestions.

*** Before you try to adjust your carburetor and adjust running. Replace the cylinder head and check compression. Please clean the mating surfaces well and use a new cylinder head gasket. *No need to add permatex or whatever sealant it will be fine just as is.*

Your manual will have the procedure how to clean your cylinder head mating surface and checking for true flatness. Section 5 page 9. This is very important for a good seal.

Look in section 5 page 13 and look at diagram 5-33 for your cylinder head screws torque pattern. Your torque value will be *96 to 112 inch pounds*. Please note I said inch pounds.

First round of torque use 1/2 torque value and follow the pattern, the second torque pass use 100% of the torque value and follow the torque pattern. After you run the motor for a while and she is good a warmed up, the then re-torque a third at 100% torque value following the torque pattern.

You may have to remove the thermostat cover check the thermostat, to see if it is good. If the gasket is damage, will have to replace the gasket so it does not leak....(I know more supplies...sorry).

You can test your thermostat in a pot of hot water. Place the water temp at about 160 degree F and place the thermostat in the pot and in a minute or so you should see the thermostat open. 8) 



*Running with the choke out.*

** Usually when someone states that the motor is only running with the choke out, it usually means a lean condition carburetor wise. (Not enough fuel get to the motor and pulling the choke out creates a richer fuel delivery.

** Please make sure you have fresh fuel oil mix 50:1. Old gas mixtures of greater than 3 or 4 month can accumulate water if is no stabilizer in it. 

-- Did you prime up your fuel system by pumping the fuel bulb until it was somewhat firm?

-- Is the fuel hose connected to the tank with bulb connected closest to tank. There should be a little arrow pointing out the direction of the fuel flow to the motor. (Make sure the fuel tank vent cap is open)

-- You may have to have keep the choke out for a little bit and then push it in when it is warmed up. (*Does it kill when you push in the choke or just run a bit rough?? If it runs rough and you pump the fuel bulb and it perks up you make have a fuel pump issue*)

*Your initial carburetor settings:*
-- Make sure you turn your slow idle needle in (clock wise) completely and gently seat. Then turn it out (counter clockwise 1 1/2 turns out) Take a dab of paint or whatever and mark the knob end of slow idle needle, so it can help better determine if your turned out 1 1/2 turns. Once you have the motor warmed up and choke pushed in. Try to turn the tiller throttle to lowest position to keep the motor running. Start to turn the slow idle needle in 1/8 to 1/4 increments clock wise (wait about 10 to 15 sec in between turns to allow time for the motor to react). The motor should start to rev up as you adjust the slow idle needle. You then lower the tiller setting to a slower setting and continue turning in (clockwise) the slow idle needle until you get a lean sneeze condition (like a misfire or missing jerk). You then turn it out about 1/4 out (counter clockwise). This should be the smoothest running condition at this setting and you should not have mess with it unless you have rebuilt your carb or another cleaning. 

**** Because of the low profile of this motor, it sits low in a barrel and it prone to inhale its own exhaust and runs rough and makes difficult to adjust idle in the barrel. To help with this place a fan blowing on the motor to prevent the accumulation of exhaust gases. This is not an issue at the lake because the motor is in the open and exhaust will flow away and prevent recirculation. Also you will be moving along as well. *You will make your final slow idle adjustment at the lake under load with the motor in forward gear to get your smoothest slow idle condition.*

-- *If you are still have issues with fuel delivery and still have to keep the choke out, you may have to*

1 Revisit your carburetor and re-clean it. ( Sometimes there is something that was missed)
2 Evaluate your fuel hose and bulb system too make sure it does not have cracks or compromised to allow air to enter the system and displace fuel and cause a lean condition. This includes the internal fuel hoses in the motor as well.

3. Evaluate your fuel pump.


*Your motor not pumping water.*


-- 1st make sure you have that lower unit in a barrel or can that can allow you to raise the water level up at least half way up the mid section and at least 6 inches over the section where the water pump housing is located.

The water will come out as a mixture of exhaust gases and thick spray out of the back where the exhaust relief port is located. That is your water indicator.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xPwfWgNRo_M&feature=related



-- When you replaced your impeller, did you make sure the impeller pin or key was in place. If not then there may not be anything to drive the impeller to turn along with the drive shaft. (We have all done that...lol)

-- When you lined up the water tube and the water pump housing gromit it could have come out or misaligned while trying to adjust get the lower units and the exhaust housing to mate up. So either the water tube is not in the water pump housing gromit and not sending water up to the head or the water tube could have push down on the water pump housing gromit and cause it to distort the gromit. This will cause an obstruction. Lube with rubber gromit with a little oil allow it slide in easy. Pay close attention when lining up the lower and mating the two halves, so that you notice the water tube easily slides in the gromit.

-- There is a water tube gromit located at the base of the motor where it connects to the exhaust housing. If that gromit has become damage or distorted or the previous owner accident pulled down the water tube and tried to shove it back up and it did not communicate well then you would have a obstruction. (The only way to resolve that issue is to remove the outer motor housing and remove the power head from the exhausting house base to evaluate the tube and gromit connection or lack of. (This would take a good afternoon and a 6 pack of beer....but I've done it before....lol :LOL2: And lots of pictures.)

-- When you remove your cylinder head cover, this would be perfect time to evaluate your water jackets and passages to make sure they are not filled or obstructed with sand, silt, salt or junk to prevent water flow and prevent good water circulation and cooling. Please protect the inside cylinder wall and chambers so sand, grit or what does not get in there to later cause damage/scoring.) 

*Here is a you tube video of a person using a drill to turn the drive shaft and test to see if the water pump is pump water out the gromet.*

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIt1HTL096w

(*Make sure the motor is in neural and protect the end of the drive shaft with some like rubber than attach the drill connect or ratchet nut and turn it.*) It should shoot it up good. This will rule out your water pump and allow to concentrate on possible obstruction mentioned above.

I will post addendums if I think of something later on.


I hope this helps you along.


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## cajuncook1

ENIRB said:


> Another problem?
> 
> 
> 
> I need to buy a new tank, as I fear mine has a leak somewhere allowing pressure to slowly escape.



Your tank does not need to be pressurized. All you have to do is make sure that the tank is sound and has the ability to be vented.


When you first connect the fuel line to the motor and tank, you squeeze the fuel bulb to pump fuel to the fuel pump and to the carburetor bowl. The fuel bulb will be a little firm and will soften some when the motor is running. 

When you try to start the motor or the motor is running, the fuel pump is getting alternating negative and positive pulses from the crankcase that cause fuel pump to siphon fuel from the tank and propel fuel to the carburetor bowl.

You can change you tank or fuel line if you think they are old and compromised. Make sure if you buy new fuel lines they are ethanol resistant. You can also change the fuel lines with in the motor to ethanol resistant lines when you get her up and running. You can purchase them at any auto parts store...they are cheap and sold by the foot. Make sure they don't sell you the vacuum hoses.

Originally when the fuel lines were made, ethanol was not an issue. Now ethanol causes the inside of the old fuel hoses to break down and gum and occlude the carburetors and fuel systems. Same thing applies to the original fuel pumps. The ethanol tears them up. The aftermarket or new fuel pumps are made to withstand the ethanol in gas.

So, if you can try to find a station that sells non ethanol fuel.....there are few still around.

Any hoo, I have given you so much to think about, I don't want add more the pile. :lol:


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## ENIRB

I'm going to fill up a trash can tomorrow and give that a shot.

I'll also double check the fuel tank to see if it was open or closed vent (anxious me forgot).

The fuel hose is new Attwood so resistant to ethenol, but the tank itself is old.
Fuel lines on the motor seemed fine when I was disconnecting them and moving them around while working on the carb. I'll replace probably as a last ditch effort.

Additionally, I will replace the fuel, and remix - that fuel is only 3 months old, but better safe than sorry.

I did NOT touch the impeller yet, I wanted to see if it was working first.
I just ordered it because I was paying shipping anyways.

I'm going to contact my local NAPA store tomorrow to see if they can get me the head gasket in for comparable price - to try to skip the shipping charge (10$).

Weather is starting to change here already, so I think if it isn't fixed in the next few weeks it isn't going to see water until next spring.

So tomorrow I'll troubleshoot more, and probably shore fish, all with the blisters from pulling the sh*t out of the rope today...

I have a feeling it's maybe just the vent on the tank... or maybe thats me hoping its something so simple! #-o


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## cajuncook1

If you have not inspected your old impeller. I would definitely do that before trying to run her. Old impellers can break up and send small pieces of rubber up your water tube and water passages in cylinder head and cause cooling issues.

So, please change your impeller and check to see if your water tube is in the water tube gromit at base of the pump housing. About a 30 min job. Use a little oil to lubricate the impeller for ease of insertion. See your manual for the process, it is not bad.


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## ENIRB

cajuncook1 said:


> If you have not inspected your old impeller. I would definitely do that before trying to run her. Old impellers can break up and send small pieces of rubber up your water tube and water passages in cylinder head and cause cooling issues.
> 
> So, please change your impeller and check to see if your water tube is in the water tube gromit at base of the pump housing. About a 30 min job. Use a little oil to lubricate the impeller for ease of insertion. See your manual for the process, it is not bad.



Copy that, will knock it out today.


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## ENIRB

https://youtu.be/Z5pHUmbvxSI

Need a new fuel tank I'm pretty sure, and new fuel.
Then I can hopefully adjust idle...


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## cajuncook1

Nice, you got her to run a bit and I see your new impeller is working and pumping good.    

Making progress!!!!!! =D> =D> =D> =D>


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## ENIRB

Yeah, the video was taken w/ my wife's Thunderbolt, or it would have been longer.
Impeller works great, pumping alot of water now!

The pull start handle is deteriorating, so I'll pick up a new one of those as well.

So:

Replace cylinder head
Replace spark plugs
Replace Rope Start Handle
Replace Fuel Tank


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## ENIRB

Forgot to upload the pictures from changing the impeller.
It was obvious someone had done this before, as one of the screws was a little torn up.


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## cajuncook1

Great job on the impeller replacement. Champion J4C or J6C (JC6 if you are going to do alot of trolling with the motor) spark plugs are fine for your motor. Hope things go well with the cylinder head!


Just to give you a heads up, I'm going to be away from the computer a for about four days. I'll check in Tuesday or Wednesday. 

You've done an awesome job so far!!!


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## cajuncook1

Hey ENIRB,

How are things going? Were you able to replace the cylinder head?


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## ENIRB

cajuncook1 said:


> Hey ENIRB,
> 
> How are things going? Were you able to replace the cylinder head?



Still waiting for it to arrive...


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## cajuncook1

ENIRB said:


> cajuncook1 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey ENIRB,
> 
> How are things going? Were you able to replace the cylinder head?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still waiting for it to arrive...
Click to expand...



Email or call the seller and see if he obtained a tracking number for the part. That way you have an idea when it will arrive. Sorry about the wait, I'm anxious for ya too!


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## ENIRB

Shipped parcel post he says...


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## SVOMike86

Its a shame more people don't know about flat rate boxes. I'm sure a head would fit in the larger box...


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## ENIRB

Received the cylinder head in the mail.
Have a busy week or 2 so will update again when I have time to install.

Question though,
It appears it has the thermostat installed, should i remove and install the one on the motor already - since I know it works? or just use the one already on the replacement head?


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## jasper60103

ENIRB said:


> Received the cylinder head in the mail.
> Have a busy week or 2 so will update again when I have time to install.
> 
> Question though,
> It appears it has the thermostat installed, should i remove and install the one on the motor already - since I know it works? or just use the one already on the replacement head?



I would go ahead and replace it while its convenient and having peace of mind.


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## cajuncook1

Keep the existing thermostat in the replacement cylinder head. After running the motor and there are no signs of overheating, then you are in good shape. Also, you will have a spare thermostat and will not have replace the thermostat cover gasket. High percentage of the time, if the thermostat is going to fail, it is going to fail in the open position. So, you make the call if you want change it right off the bat. 

When the motor is running, the water will feel cool for a little bit, then you will feel warm/very warm water for a little bit, then it will go back to cool again. It will do this on and off. 

The reason you feel the cool water at first is because the head temp is not warm enough to cause the thermostat to open. When the head temp gets warm enough the thermostat will open and allow water to circulate around the water jackets to cool the power head down. When the temp drops back down the thermostat will close until the temperature of the power head causes the thermostat to open again. If you have a infra-red digital thermometer then you can see the temps start off in the low 100's to 110 then go up to the 140's or 150's degress F. Then you will see the temp head drop to 120 or 130 and then back up to 140 to 150 again. When you see the temps drop then that is when the thermostat is opening up and cooling the motor.

The thermostat helps keep the running temperature of the power head between 120 to less than 160F degrees. These are optimal running temperatures to help with more complete fuel/oil combustion and help decrease carbon and coke build up on the cylinders, rings and pistons. The older motors without thermostats had water constantly circulating around the water jackets and the power head would stay cooler and thus more carbon and coke build up.

Looking forward to your next update. Shoot me a PM if you posted and its been a day or so and I have not replied.


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## MrSimon

Yes, I know this is an old thread ...... but I want to know what happened!!!!

This was like reading a good book, getting to the end, and finding the last chapter had been ripped out.


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