# How to fix this?



## 23mako (Nov 19, 2013)

Would the best way be to get a new female connector and just splice the wires together? I don't want to have to rewire the whole trailer. Thanks in advance for any help.


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## DrNip (Nov 19, 2013)

My previous trailer I purchased a new end and spliced it. I then shoved the sliced part inside the trailer tongue.


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## JMichael (Nov 19, 2013)

Buy a new end, cut all four wires at different lengths so that all of the splices will be staggered/off set from each other. Cut the trailer wires length to match up to the lengths of the new end. Slide a piece of heat shrink over each wire before you solder them together. After you have soldered them all together, slide your heat shrink in place and shrink it. Then wrap the group of wires with some tape. Preferably somthing like 3M's Self-Fusing Silicone Rubber Electrical Tape.


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## nlester (Nov 20, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=334871#p334871 said:


> JMichael » Today, 22:03[/url]"]Buy a new end, cut all four wires at different lengths so that all of the splices will be staggered/off set from each other. Cut the trailer wires length to match up to the lengths of the new end. Slide a piece of heat shrink over each wire before you solder them together. After you have soldered them all together, slide your heat shrink in place and shrink it. Then wrap the group of wires with some tape. Preferably somthing like 3M's Self-Fusing Silicone Rubber Electrical Tape.



This sounds like the best way for a long term solution but if you do not have access to a soldering iron, doing the same thing with a crimp splice will work about as well. If you don't want to over think it, any type of splice will work for a number of years. DrNip's suggestion will probably be good enough. You will be exposed to corrosion from the environment more than from the water. 

I used insulated crimp splices and heat shrink tubing from Radio Shack on my trailer wiring but I have seen the self-fusing electrical tape used to insulate sonar transducer cable patches with good results.


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## 23mako (Nov 20, 2013)

Thanks for the replies guys. I knew I could count on you all!


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## SumDumGuy (Nov 20, 2013)

Easiest solution is to replace the trailer.



/wait wut/


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## PGRChaplain (Jan 12, 2014)

Don't run over the plug with the Lawn Mower!
[-X


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## bcbouy (Jan 12, 2014)

i keep it simple with trailer plugs.crimp connections and tape with a flex conduit.i find i'm replacing plugs at least once a year.i go waaay off road quite a bit and have even started carrying extra fuses, wire,crimp connectors and tape on the boat becase of the abuse the trailer takes :LOL2: the last replace was from dragging the connector for about 50 miles after over articulating the trailer and the plug popped out.it was worn down to a nub when i stopped for gas and checked it.now i keep it really simple.


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## PSG-1 (Jan 12, 2014)

JMichael's suggestion is the correct fix. Also, if you want to guarantee your splice is waterproof, then use self-adhesive lined heat shrink butt connectors. Then wrap with the 3M splicing tape. This will give you a nearly indestructible, waterproof connection.


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## TNtroller (Jan 13, 2014)

Just be the devils advocate, it's not hard to re-wire the entire trailer, just buy a kit for $20, and no splices to corrode and cause shorts, etc. My $.02


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## huntinfool (Jan 13, 2014)

Cut the end off and replace. We do these daily. I'd suggest you use shrink fittings to keep moisture out.


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## Bugpac (Jan 14, 2014)

TNtroller said:


> Just be the devils advocate, it's not hard to re-wire the entire trailer, just buy a kit for $20, and no splices to corrode and cause shorts, etc. My $.02


 how do you connect to the lights with no connections to corrode and cause shorts?


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## TNtroller (Jan 14, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=338616#p338616 said:


> Bugpac » Tue Jan 14, 2014 1:51 am[/url]"]
> 
> 
> TNtroller said:
> ...



Di-electric grease works wonders, a little bit off preventive maint goes a long way.


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## earl60446 (Jan 14, 2014)

Wow, some of you guys must work for NASA, doing connections for the space shuttle. :lol: 
"Di-electric grease, 
self-adhesive lined heat shrink butt connectors. 
3M splicing tape, 
3M's Self-Fusing Silicone Rubber Electrical Tape 
and self-fusing electrical tape used to insulate sonar transducer cable patches"

My dad would of twisted the wires together and made sure they stayed apart sorta kindof. Then after blowing about 10 fuses wrapped it with some duct tape or something. :roll: 

Tim


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## PSG-1 (Jan 14, 2014)

It may seem a bit overkill, or getting too technical, but, all of those things are not just recommended, but NECESSARY when dealing with trailers that are used around salt water. Wrapping wires together and putting a wire nut on it won't last long in this environment! Salt water eats boats and equipment, period. Even with the right stuff, there is still the potential for failure. So, I tend to do things overkill.


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## JMichael (Jan 14, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=338656#p338656 said:


> earl60446 » Today, 13:39[/url]"]
> 
> My dad would of twisted the wires together and made sure they stayed apart sorta kindof. Then after blowing about 10 fuses wrapped it with some duct tape or something. :roll:
> 
> Tim


I think I may have run in to some of your dad's work before. What state did he live in. :lol:


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## Bugpac (Jan 15, 2014)

TNtroller said:


> [url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=338616#p338616 said:
> 
> 
> > Bugpac » Tue Jan 14, 2014 1:51 am[/url]"]
> ...


I was being sarcastic.!! If you cant have a splice you cant connect the lights!!


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## bcbouy (Jan 15, 2014)

i'm pretty sure if you read the question carefully 23 mako isn't looking for a nasa fix.just a simple repair.its just a trailer plug.


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## MrSimon (Jan 15, 2014)

A cheap little soldering kit from the hardware store .... some wire strippers .... a pack of heat shrink tubes .... and a lighter

Takes about ten minutes start to finish and you'll have an excellent fix.

Plus, soldering and using heat shrink tubes is actually a lot of fun.


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## ShadowWalker (Jan 18, 2014)

Just buy a new end and splice it in. $4 at an auto parts store.


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## simbelle (Jan 18, 2014)

Sell the boat and trailer at a huge loss and while your at it you might as well get rid of the tow vehicale. You may even want to sell your house devorice your wife; then goo out and pay top dollar for brand new ones! That would be a good fix!


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## JMichael (Jan 18, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=338720#p338720 said:


> bcbouy » 15 Jan 2014, 10:07[/url]"]i'm pretty sure if you read the question carefully 23 mako isn't looking for a nasa fix.just a simple repair.its just a trailer plug.


I'm pretty sure that if you read the question, you'll see that he didn't ask for "the simple way", " the easiest way", or "the fastest way". What he asked was, (and I'll quote him to be sure there's no mistake here)


> Would the best way be


 And IMO, if you are


> i'm replacing plugs at least once a year


 you are doing something wrong when you replace them, or you are abusing them in one way or another. Leaving the wire too short to be able to make a turn falls in the former. 

If anyone would rather use duct tape vs. a tape designed specifically for electrical repairs, or twist wires together vs. soldering or using a good quality connector, or if you want to make fun of anyone that tries to do a better quality job, I'm glad you don't make or repair the things I own or use. :mrgreen:


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## bcbouy (Jan 18, 2014)

read my first post closer before you make dumbass comments


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## PSG-1 (Jan 18, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=338723#p338723 said:


> MrSimon » 15 Jan 2014, 13:09[/url]"]A cheap little soldering kit from the hardware store .... some wire strippers .... a pack of heat shrink tubes .... and a lighter
> 
> Takes about ten minutes start to finish and you'll have an excellent fix.
> 
> Plus, soldering and using heat shrink tubes is actually a lot of fun.



The problem with soldering, at least as far as circuits exposed to the environment are concerned, is that when you heat the wire, it's just like when you heat metal to weld it. That is the *first* place it is going to corrode. And this is why ABYC and NMMA codes do not recommend soldering, but using the procedures outlined above. Yes, soldering will work, but for long-term reliability, why not do it the right way, go ahead and spend the little bit of extra money and time, buy quality, and only cry once!

Now, I'm sorry if that seems like an arrogant or dumbass comment, but I personally don't enjoy spending my time having to go back and fix things over and over again, that gets old, and irritating, real quick.


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## JMichael (Jan 19, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=338996#p338996 said:


> bcbouy » Yesterday, 14:37[/url]"]read my first post closer before you make dumbass comments


Now there's a concise, intelligent, and well thought out response. :roll: opcorn:


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## bcbouy (Jan 19, 2014)

=D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> :roll: "get your facts first,then you can distort them as you please" mark twain.


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## nlester (Jan 19, 2014)

I bought a 2004 Ford Ranger and my boat trailer wiring was too short. I needed something fast. I bought a new plug kit from Auto Zone that came with the electric grease and the trailer plug on 12 inches of wire. I cut the old plug off, spliced the wire with crimp splices, filled the splices with the grease and wrapped them with self fusing silicone tape that I had. Six dollars and 30 minutes, I was on the road. It should last a few years.


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## thill (Feb 24, 2014)

Years ago, I was fixing a trailer light connection before heading out to go fishing. 
An electrician fishing buddy of mine went into his truck and came back with some small orange wire nuts and a tube of silicone.

He stripped the wires, screwed them together with the wire nuts and filled the nuts with silicone. Then he shoved them inside the trailer. They never, ever failed again, even after a number of years. I'd change bulbs, but never had to touch the wiring again.

Simple, fast, effective, cheap, and 100% permanent.

-TH


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## MrSimon (Feb 24, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=338999#p338999 said:


> PSG-1 » 18 Jan 2014, 18:08[/url]"]
> 
> 
> [url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=338723#p338723 said:
> ...



Um, did you forget that on the previous page of this post, you agreed with Jmichael that soldering and using heat shrink tubing was the correct way to fix the OP's problem?


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## fishjunky (Feb 26, 2014)

I use a little bit of dielectric grease on the bare wire because I have it, then put the connections in wire nuts and fill the end with Goop. Shouldn't be going anywhere.


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## Boat2fast (Mar 6, 2014)

Two things that do the most damage to my trailers wire harness are lawn mowers and chipmunks. I'm getting pretty good at replacing the harness. I'd like to find something that chipmunks hate.


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## BullfrogBowfishing (Mar 6, 2014)

use hand signals hahahahahahaha


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