# 1964 evinrude lightwin 3 horsepower stalling



## derekdiruz1 (May 19, 2015)

Hey all, I have a 64 evinrude 3hp lightwin that I just bought a few months back. Normally I fish electric only so today I took it out for the second time. First day I used it she ran like a dream, didn't stall at all, and trolled down to a small putter while I trolled all day for crappie. I loved it. Today, however, I completely could not get her to run right. It starts right up on the second pull no problem, but then when I push in the choke it dies. I was riding around on it for a half hour pulling out and pushing the choke in over and over because it would keep it from dying. Then I realized that if I BARELY pushed the choke in, literally maybe 2/10 of the way, I could ride around no problem and it ran great again. 


Does anyone have any idea whatsoever why this may be the case? It's annoying as all get out.. PS I don't know much about outboards but know a car inside and out, so I feel like I kind of know any engine..


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## cajuncook1 (May 19, 2015)

Sounds like a fuel delivery issue.

- Please elaborate if you have done any carburetor work on the motor(carburetor kit).
- cleaned the fuel tank
- replaced the fuel lines (could have trash or breaking down inside and causing trash to go to the carb)
- checked the fuel filter inside the tank that connects to fuel pet cock valve(slug causing poor flow)
- made sure you open the fuel cap air valve or verified that the little hole allowing air in is clean.

When you are partially pulling the choke out, it is using more vacuum from the crankcase to deliver fuel, so you seem to have a fuel delivery issue. 

As always, ensure good spark and compression.


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## Insanity (May 19, 2015)

You have trash in a jet in the carb. As you pull the choke it sucks harder pulling fuel past the odstruction in the jet.
Clean the carb.


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## derekdiruz (May 19, 2015)

The guy who I bought it from collects and restores these old motors. He completely rebuilt the carb and almost everything on the motor including coils and what not. I was thinking something got into the carb, but wasn't sure. haha.

Does anyone know of a resource I could use to get a how to that's very elaborate on the easiest way to clean this sucker?

Like I said, I like to think I'm handy enough this shouldn't be difficult.. 

Thanks guys!!!


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## derekdiruz (May 19, 2015)

while I'm thinking about it, will it hurt the motor running it like I had it with the choke partially pushed in? Tomorrow I'm dying to go fishing again..Lol


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## Pappy (May 19, 2015)

How about we do something really simple instead? You can rebuild the carb and do all the things above if you would like but............

You should have a low speed adjustment knob on this engine. Turn it counter clockwise about 1/4 - 1/2 turn and re-run the engine. 
That should richen the mixture enough to run it. 

From that point, once the engine is warm, start turning that mixture adjustment back in in tiny increments until your running quality is where you like it. 
Too far and the engine will run lean and stall....too rich and the engine will run rough and smoke more than it should.

Also..although that engine is a 1964 I would run it on a 24:1 mixture. They love it and you should not notice more smoke if you do the above tuning correctly.

If the knob is really easy to turn there is a packing nut that surrounds the needle on the back side of the knob (behind the shroud). A 7/16 open end wrench is used to tighten that. Tighten it to where there is noticeable resistance to turning the knob. We want it to stay in place once adjusted. 
Let us know if this helps.


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## cajuncook1 (May 19, 2015)

*



I like Pappy's idea, quick and simple. He is a hell of guy and very knowledgeable!!

Click to expand...

*


Hopefully, Pappy's suggestion should get you on your way. But, if trash has caused issue then here are couple of links, that will show you how to clean and apply a carburetor kit if need. The videos are not professional and over detailed, but I made for a guy who had never worked on outboard. The video show a 6hp Evinrude and a 18hp Evinrude. The carburetor cleaning and reassembly should be very close and help you out.



Here are some videos on how to clean and apply a carburetor kit for an OMC high speed fix jet carburetor. Displayed motors are 1968 Johnson 6hp and 1964 Evinrude 18hp outboards. The videos are very long and over detailed, but I want to help those who are new/novices to motor repair. Again, I am no expert or certified marine mechanic, but I am offering video to help.


OMC fix jet carburetors part 1 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7MmDOaOQyQg

OMC fix jet carburetors part 2 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PuByx8J-EfY

OMC fix jet carburetors part 3 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FpivbGEv0wM

OMC fix jet carburetors part 4 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-aWICvsQZQ8

OMC fix jet carburetors part 5 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JqB6PLqeTI4

OMC fix jet carburetors part 6 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HS5J_AxJrAY

OMC fix jet carburetors part 7 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iq_2RfWjQ28

OMC fix jet carburetors part 8 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-lXIVBX_UF4

OMC fix jet carburetors part 9 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-nA_4YmNgt8

OMC fix jet carburetors part 10 of 10 (Motor displayed 1968 Johnson 6hp)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=94lcU7y2P9Y


*Almost forgot to post an accessory video regarding a timing fixture. You can certain set the points with a feeler gauge as shown in the previous videos, but I just wanted to add this to the list*.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eNK2TEeQQv0


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## cajuncook1 (May 19, 2015)

*Carburetor Adjustment for idle/low speed needle. * Your carburetor has a high speed fix jet, so no adjustment. It just needs to stay clean.

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently(turn in clockwise), then open 1-1/2 turns(turn out counter clockwise). Do not tighten or force the slow idle needle shut or it may damage the needle.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in (clockwise). Wait a few seconds (10 to 15 sec) for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in(clockwise), the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again (turn your throttle slightly slower) to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out(turn out counter clockwise) the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.


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## derekdiruz (May 19, 2015)

pappy, I played with the rich/lean knob all day long today and had no noticeable difference really, other than having the knob all the way on rich and that is when I could have the choke BARELY pushed in and let her run. 

You guys are great though, tomorrow I'll end up tinkering with it to see what happens. I am running 1/3 pint of oil to 1gal gas for who is wondering. tcw-3 and 87 octane.


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## Pappy (May 20, 2015)

Didn't tell us that in your original description. More information the better for us.............
Okay, pull your cowls then and pull out the low speed needle. Pull the bowl off the bottom of the carb as well. Shoot some carb cleaner through the idle circuit from the needle side to try and dislodge anything that may be restricting flow. Make sure the seal that surrounds the high speed circuit is intact between the bowl and the main body. #36 in Cajun's drawing.


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## derekdiruz (May 23, 2015)

I don't have a high speed needle. I only have the low speed needle. Today I took off the lower bowl of the carb but then cleaned that and the fuel line. So pull the low speed needle screw out and spray carb cleaner through that hole, right?


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## Pappy (May 23, 2015)

Never said you had a high speed needle.
Read it again.


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## SumDumGuy (May 24, 2015)

ok: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor...071-/381263587999?hash=item58c514aa9f&vxp=mtr

best: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Johnson-Ev...071-/191134533493?hash=item2c80818775&vxp=mtr


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## derekdiruz (May 26, 2015)

Ok so yesterday I spent the day doing carb cleaner through it like described and it still just wants to die on me when the choke goes in. Should I just rebuild the carb now? I'm about ready to because for the time that would go into it I think If the carb is my issue in any way it would be worth it. Plus I enjoy learning the mechanics of things and tinkering with stuff like this haha. Thanks for all the input thus far everyone, I really appreciate it.


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## Pappy (May 26, 2015)

Absolutely!
That is probably one of the best carbs to learn on. Easy to get on and off (watch out for that return spring....) and easy to learn the circuits in. 
Get yourself an OEM kit as they are complete. "Will fit" kits lack needed parts. Do the job complete, leave no circuit untouched and verify all circuits with a carb cleaner or air. 
Remove the high speed jet. Do not try and clean it with it in place. This may be the root of your issues anyway. 
Remove the old packings that surround the needle. Install two fiber packings then a plastic one for the nut to ride on and compress the fiber ones. 
New red fiber washer under the bowl drain screw. 
Remove the aluminum plug at the top of the carb and clean the orifices below it. Be careful when you do this. Easiest way is to drill a 1/8" hole into it but catch the bit before it bottoms out. Put an awl in there or some other pointed object and pry it out....easy. 
Set idle mixture around 1 to 1.5 turns from a lightly closed position. Check the needle to see if it is grooved. If it is then you may not be able to ever get a good steady idle from the carb as the idle needle seat will have been damaged as well. Your final setting should be in from the initial. 
Install the new needle and seat using the wire hangar, new plastic washer under the seat then set the float height level with the main body to bowl mating surface. Good luck and let us know how it goes.


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## derekdiruz1 (Jun 11, 2015)

CajunCooke!!!

I have a question for you. I finally have time to watch the videos you posted and in video 5 you're discussing the small pin that the float pushes upwards when the carb fills with fuel. I noticed that you talk about a tinier pin that holds that small little needle onto the float apparatus so that when the float moves the pin moves. It's at 5:00 minutes in the video. Well my carb doesn't have the very very small pin that holds the main pin to float apparatus. I'm not sure if that's terribly important, but I have noticed that when I tinker with the float pushing it up and down, the small pin the goes up and down is sort of delayed and almost "sticks" for a split second if you will before dropping back down onto the float and out of place. Do you think that this sticking could be the problem causing my motor to only run when the choke is half way in????


Please tell me that I solved my problem. lol


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## derekdiruz1 (Jun 12, 2015)

Totally took the carb apart today, replaced the gasket/oring thing a majig on the high speed jet (?) as it was totally shot and I hadn't noticed it until now. Also pulled out the bolt and screw that are in the fixed jet and cleaned that out well. 


All in all, it runs like a top again! Question though, when I put the low speed needle in, do I put that in, do all adjusting to it, then put the packing nut back over it?


Thanks guys!


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## cajuncook1 (Jun 17, 2015)

derekdiruz1 said:


> Totally took the carb apart today, replaced the gasket/oring thing a majig on the high speed jet (?) as it was totally shot and I hadn't noticed it until now. Also pulled out the bolt and screw that are in the fixed jet and cleaned that out well.
> 
> 
> All in all, it runs like a top again! Question though, when I put the low speed needle in, do I put that in, do all adjusting to it, then put the packing nut back over it?
> ...




You can put the packing on the slow speed/idle needle then slowly turn the needle clock wise to gently seat the needle point. Then turn the needle counter clockwise 1 1/2 turns out. Now start tightening the packing nut until it take a some resistance to turn the slow speed needle. Once you have set the correct position to obtain smooth idle then snug the packing nut a little tighter, but not too much. You are just preventing the needle from wandering or being easily malpositioned.


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