# is this johnson worth it



## flajsh (Jun 14, 2012)

I'm trying to decide if this motor is a decent deal. Don't know much about motors but can do some things.
its a 85 Johnson 40 hp guys says it needs water pump impeller. Prop seal and carb cleaning.
Said it 170 lbs on each side. I'm assuming that means compression. Says starts right up.
Wants 450. Is that compression good.

Thanks


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## Johny25 (Jun 14, 2012)

There is no way on Gods green earth that motor has 170lbs compression sorry  Brand new they were probably about 120-130 maybe. I have never heard of any OMC motor with that type of compression, not even racing motors. I would want to see a compression check with my own eyes when a claim like that is made. Sounds WAY TO FISHY.

But if you get to see a compression test and all cylinders are 100 lbs or better and within 10-15% of each other the rest of the work is not that hard. $20 bucks or so for a carb kit, maybe $10-15 bucks for lower seals, and impeller another $20. Plus about $10 bucks to ship it. 

Is it an electric start or rope start? Long or short shaft? Tiller or remote? This all makes a difference in value. $450 is a great price if it does have good compression. Be careful though, if the lower seals are shot and he has run it with water in the lower unit the whole lower unit could be shot.


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## shawnfish (Jun 15, 2012)

Johny25 said:


> There is no way on Gods green earth that motor has 170lbs compression sorry  Brand new they were probably about 120-130 maybe. I have never heard of any OMC motor with that type of compression, not even racing motors. I would want to see a compression check with my own eyes when a claim like that is made. Sounds WAY TO FISHY.
> 
> But if you get to see a compression test and all cylinders are 100 lbs or better and within 10-15% of each other the rest of the work is not that hard. $20 bucks or so for a carb kit, maybe $10-15 bucks for lower seals, and impeller another $20. Plus about $10 bucks to ship it.
> 
> Is it an electric start or rope start? Long or short shaft? Tiller or remote? This all makes a difference in value. $450 is a great price if it does have good compression. Be careful though, if the lower seals are shot and he has run it with water in the lower unit the whole lower unit could be shot.




LIKE 25 SAID.....NO WAY IN SAM HELL ITS GOT 170LBS COMPRESSION! 100 OR OVER IS GOOD.NOW THE PARTS THE GUY CLAIMS IT NEEDS AND THE LITTLE BIT OF LABOR INVOLVED COMBINED WITH THE 450.00 FOR THE MOTOR WHERE IM AT IS A HELLUVA DEAL NO
MATTER WHAT MODEL IT IS, THAT IS IF ITS GOT GOOD COMPRESSION AND THE ONLY THINGS WRONG WITH IT ARE WHAT THE GUY CLAIMS. WATER PUMP AND IMPELLER SHOULD BE INSTALLED ANYTIME YOU BUY A USED MOTOR THAT WAY YOU KNOW FOR SURE ITS GOOD TO GO IN THAT ASPECT. MAKE SURE YOU HEAR IT RUN AND IF I WERE YOU I WOULD TELL HIM YOU WANNA DRAIN THE LOWER TO INSPECT IT FOR WATER AND METAL THATS BIGGER THAN FINE GRIT FROM NORMAL WEAR BUT A GUY COULD DRAIN THE WATER OUT AND PUT NEW OIL IN TOO, YA NEVER KNOW. BUT IF EVERYTHING LOOKS GOOD TO YA I SAY GO FOR IT! WISH I COULD FIND A DEAL LIKE THAT, ID BUY IT QUICK. A SOUND MOTOR LIKE THAT WOULD GET A GRAND OR MORE EASY HERE......


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## shawnfish (Jun 15, 2012)

Johny25 said:


> There is no way on Gods green earth that motor has 170lbs compression sorry  Brand new they were probably about 120-130 maybe. I have never heard of any OMC motor with that type of compression, not even racing motors. I would want to see a compression check with my own eyes when a claim like that is made. Sounds WAY TO FISHY.
> 
> But if you get to see a compression test and all cylinders are 100 lbs or better and within 10-15% of each other the rest of the work is not that hard. $20 bucks or so for a carb kit, maybe $10-15 bucks for lower seals, and impeller another $20. Plus about $10 bucks to ship it.
> 
> Is it an electric start or rope start? Long or short shaft? Tiller or remote? This all makes a difference in value. $450 is a great price if it does have good compression. Be careful though, if the lower seals are shot and he has run it with water in the lower unit the whole lower unit could be shot.




LIKE 25 SAID.....NO WAY IN SAM HELL ITS GOT 170LBS COMPRESSION! 100 OR OVER IS GOOD.NOW THE PARTS THE GUY CLAIMS IT NEEDS AND THE LITTLE BIT OF LABOR INVOLVED COMBINED WITH THE 450.00 FOR THE MOTOR WHERE IM AT IS A HELLUVA DEAL NO
MATTER WHAT MODEL IT IS, THAT IS IF ITS GOT GOOD COMPRESSION AND THE ONLY THINGS WRONG WITH IT ARE WHAT THE GUY CLAIMS. WATER PUMP AND IMPELLER SHOULD BE INSTALLED ANYTIME YOU BUY A USED MOTOR THAT WAY YOU KNOW FOR SURE ITS GOOD TO GO IN THAT ASPECT. MAKE SURE YOU HEAR IT RUN AND IF I WERE YOU I WOULD TELL HIM YOU WANNA DRAIN THE LOWER TO INSPECT IT FOR WATER AND METAL THATS BIGGER THAN FINE GRIT FROM NORMAL WEAR BUT A GUY COULD DRAIN THE WATER OUT AND PUT NEW OIL IN TOO, YA NEVER KNOW. BUT IF EVERYTHING LOOKS GOOD TO YA I SAY GO FOR IT! WISH I COULD FIND A DEAL LIKE THAT, ID BUY IT QUICK. A SOUND MOTOR LIKE THAT WOULD GET A GRAND OR MORE EASY HERE......


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## shawnfish (Jun 15, 2012)

Johny25 said:


> There is no way on Gods green earth that motor has 170lbs compression sorry  Brand new they were probably about 120-130 maybe. I have never heard of any OMC motor with that type of compression, not even racing motors. I would want to see a compression check with my own eyes when a claim like that is made. Sounds WAY TO FISHY.
> 
> But if you get to see a compression test and all cylinders are 100 lbs or better and within 10-15% of each other the rest of the work is not that hard. $20 bucks or so for a carb kit, maybe $10-15 bucks for lower seals, and impeller another $20. Plus about $10 bucks to ship it.
> 
> Is it an electric start or rope start? Long or short shaft? Tiller or remote? This all makes a difference in value. $450 is a great price if it does have good compression. Be careful though, if the lower seals are shot and he has run it with water in the lower unit the whole lower unit could be shot.




LIKE 25 SAID.....NO WAY IN SAM HELL ITS GOT 170LBS COMPRESSION! 100 OR OVER IS GOOD.NOW THE PARTS THE GUY CLAIMS IT NEEDS AND THE LITTLE BIT OF LABOR INVOLVED COMBINED WITH THE 450.00 FOR THE MOTOR WHERE IM AT IS A HELLUVA DEAL NO
MATTER WHAT MODEL IT IS, THAT IS IF ITS GOT GOOD COMPRESSION AND THE ONLY THINGS WRONG WITH IT ARE WHAT THE GUY CLAIMS. WATER PUMP AND IMPELLER SHOULD BE INSTALLED ANYTIME YOU BUY A USED MOTOR THAT WAY YOU KNOW FOR SURE ITS GOOD TO GO IN THAT ASPECT. MAKE SURE YOU HEAR IT RUN AND IF I WERE YOU I WOULD TELL HIM YOU WANNA DRAIN THE LOWER TO INSPECT IT FOR WATER AND METAL THATS BIGGER THAN FINE GRIT FROM NORMAL WEAR BUT A GUY COULD DRAIN THE WATER OUT AND PUT NEW OIL IN TOO, YA NEVER KNOW. BUT IF EVERYTHING LOOKS GOOD TO YA I SAY GO FOR IT! WISH I COULD FIND A DEAL LIKE THAT, ID BUY IT QUICK. A SOUND MOTOR LIKE THAT WOULD GET A GRAND OR MORE EASY HERE......


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## flajsh (Jun 16, 2012)

Thanks for all your help guys. I decided to pass on motor.
instead of starting new thread I figure I just keep this thread for help.

So I was looking at a 75 evinrude 25 hp and the guy changed shaft length.
but also says he removed thermostat. What would the reason for this be. Is it a red flag?


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## Johny25 (Jun 16, 2012)

Shaft length change is no big deal, see it all the time (from short to long). The thermostat should be put back in though. Some people that use there motors in warm salt water remove them but I wouldn't advise it. The thermostat has a purpose, to keep the engine at a specific temp. Without the thermostat the motor will not warm up correctly or maintain the optimum operating temp.


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## jasper60103 (Jun 16, 2012)

I agree with johny^^.
Also, the thermostat may have been removed to solve a
cooling problem.
If that's the case, it may have overheated.
I would be concerned.
Does the head show any paint discoloration?


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## flajsh (Jun 16, 2012)

jasper60103 said:


> I agree with johny^^.
> Also, the thermostat may have been removed to solve a
> cooling problem.
> If that's the case, it may have overheated.
> ...



Haven't gone to see it yet.just talked to guy for a bit 
I was trying to decide if its worth going to see because 
I have to haul my three little girls with me because my wife works weekends
So its hard to do so Im trying to narrow down what might 
Be worth looking at lol


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## JMichael (Jun 16, 2012)

flajsh said:


> jasper60103 said:
> 
> 
> > I agree with johny^^.
> ...



For me, I think it would depend on how far the drive was and how much he was asking for the motor. As far as the thermostat goes, I wouldn't be overly concerned about it but I would take a compression tester with me to check the motor out. In 75, thermostats in outboards was still pretty new thing. So one going bad and the owner just pulling it out and putting the cover back on was a common thing to happen.


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## flajsh (Jun 17, 2012)

Well I called about the aforementioned Johnson 40 Hp and he swears it s 170 on both sides.
so I think Ill go see for myself. But I guess the question is. If I check it and its that high
should I walk away. Don't know if compression that high is bad.

The 25 evinrude the guy said he had it on a 18 ft boat 
And he took thermostat off so more water would be pumped out on that 
Boat and he said he thinks it was stuck open.
And he will give me the parts to put back to short shaft.

Man this is more confusing than deciding what tin to buy .

Soooo?


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## shawnfish (Jun 17, 2012)

flajsh said:


> Well I called about the aforementioned Johnson 40 Hp and he swears it s 170 on both sides.
> so I think Ill go see for myself. But I guess the question is. If I check it and its that high
> should I walk away. Don't know if compression that high is bad.
> 
> ...



if the 40 has anything over 100lbs and both are within about 10-15lbs of each other then its good. if they are 170 take a pic, this id have to see to beleive. check the lower unit for oil stains on the outside where it may be leaking, even if cleaned real good youll see a yellow tint, drain some oil out(water will come out first so u dont have to drain it all, check for metal bigger than fine grit) and check. you can check the lower too to see if its been bounced and banged against rocks,ramp trees etc....make him fire it up in a barrel for you...

id go with the 40 like i said before thats a great deal if its sound......and if the compression is that high its not bad.


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## GYPSY400 (Jun 19, 2012)

Let's hope his compression tester is not working properly.. Rope start motors ideal compression is 120... Electric start can get up to 145-150.. Test it for yourself.


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## J.P. (Jun 20, 2012)

Johny25 said:


> The thermostat should be put back in though. Some people that use there motors in warm salt water remove them but I wouldn't advise it. The thermostat has a purpose, to keep the engine at a specific temp. Without the thermostat the motor will not warm up correctly or maintain the optimum operating temp.



i'm thinking of removing the thermostat on my motor. it's functioning now, but i'm sure it will eventually fail. when that happens and i don't notice, it would result to serious powr head damage, which would be a like a death sentence to an OMC outboard motor where i am. we don't have OMC/BRP dealerships here, i buy my parts online, so i'd like to limit my maintenance to impeller and repair kits. for me, this is like a case of choosing the lesser of two evils. risk running outside ideal engine temperature or run at ideal temp and risk possible overheat....... your thoughts please.

sorry, i don't meant to hijack the thread. but it's hard to pass up the topic since the thermostat issue has already been raised.


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## Johny25 (Jun 20, 2012)

Not sure how old your motor is but thermostats rarely fail. If you are that concerned about it then I would advise you replace it and it will be good for another 20+ years. I mean you are going to open it up to get the old one out anyway, might as well just replace it for $15-20 plus shipping right? I have OMC's that are 25-30yrs old and the thermostats are still working fine. I have replaced them before thinking they were bad but they weren't. But since I was in there anyway I replaced it.


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## garzilla (Jun 20, 2012)

Don't remove your thermostat....it's there for a reason.


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## flajsh (Jun 20, 2012)

Really sorry guys.
But was the 99 merc 35 a good motor.

Again sorry. I must be driving ya's nuts lol


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## Johny25 (Jun 20, 2012)

I am not that familiar with Mercs but I will say that all of the major motor name brands are good motors if they are taken care of. I have heard that mercs in the 70's and 80's and early 90's were not as well built as the OMC's but to each there own. I wouldn't hesitate to buy a late 90's Merc if it was in good condition and the price was right. But I would have to paint it Evinrude blue or Johnson white so my friends didn't know :lol:


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## flajsh (Jun 20, 2012)

Johny25 said:


> I am not that familiar with Mercs but I will say that all of the major motor name brands are good motors if they are taken care of. I have heard that mercs in the 70's and 80's and early 90's were not as well built as the OMC's but to each there own. I wouldn't hesitate to buy a late 90's Merc if it was in good condition and the price was right. But I would have to paint it Evinrude blue or Johnson white so my friends didn't know :lol:



I think I want a Johnson also. Not because of any knowledge I have about it.
But mainly cause you guys that know what your talking about really seem to like them.


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## flajsh (Jun 20, 2012)

I guess ill probably end it and go see the 40 Johnson and do compression test 
Myself. Just don't know if I can change prop seal.


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## Johny25 (Jun 20, 2012)

Sure you can, have some confidence in yourself  It is really not that hard to do. And don't be afraid of buying Mercs, Yamaha, or any of the major brands. There are many others on here and other sites that are very knowledgeable about all these brands. A good site for motor info and knowledge is iboats.com, there is a ton of experience on that site and a lot of good guys. Just do happens a couple of OMC guys answered to your post. If you would have posted a question about a Merc I may not have even answered to this post since I have little experience with them.


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## flajsh (Jun 21, 2012)

Found a motor i liked. A Johnson mid 80's 
But its 20" shaft. my transom measures 16"
So I guess its not right one. Is that correct.


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## Johny25 (Jun 21, 2012)

Yeah it will work just fine. What sort of motor are you looking at? Year? HP? Electric?


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## flajsh (Jun 21, 2012)

Johny25 said:


> Yeah it will work just fine. What sort of motor are you looking at? Year? HP? Electric?


85 30 HP rope start. Non tiller. Johnson


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## Johny25 (Jun 21, 2012)

Good motor..... I happen to own a 85' 30hp myself. Was the first year of the prop rated HP for OMC. What is the guy asking for it?


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## flajsh (Jun 22, 2012)

Johny25 said:


> Good motor..... I happen to own a 85' 30hp myself. Was the first year of the prop rated HP for OMC. What is the guy asking for it?


$450


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## flajsh (Jun 23, 2012)

Wound up getting that motor for $350. Its 30 Hp Johnson mid eighties . I do have one concern though.
When I move the prop there seems to be play in and out. Not sure if this is normal
or something that is wrong. Compression 125 ln both sides and carb was cleaned
Its remote steering which I wanted. But pull start  the cover was in pretty bad shape but he had a evinrude
25 cover that fit.


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## jasper60103 (Jun 23, 2012)

flajsh said:


> Wound up getting that motor for $350. Its 30 Hp Johnson mid eighties . I do have one concern though.
> When I move the prop there seems to be play in and out. Not sure if this is normal
> or something that is wrong. Compression 125 ln both sides and carb was cleaned
> Its remote steering which I wanted. But pull start  the cover was in pretty bad shape but he had a evinrude
> 25 cover that fit.



Congrats. =D> 
$350 is still a great price, even for rope start.
Electric start can easily be added if you have the gear toothed
fly wheel.

I just checked my motors and there's not much noticeable
movement as you say.
Sounds like your prop nut just needs to be tightened
a little. Might as well take it off and clean/lube the prop shaft
while you're at it.
Give it a new water pump impeller, change the gear case lube
and replace with new fill/drain washer/seals.
And be sure to run it 50:1 fuel mix.

Again, congrats and enjoy your new motor.
Let's see some pics.


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## Johny25 (Jun 23, 2012)

May be missing the prop nut spacer? And the hood is no big deal as long as the serial number matches what the guy told you he sold you. Yeah lets gets some pics up so we can see OUR new motor :mrgreen: You are part of the J/E family now =D>


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## flajsh (Jun 23, 2012)

Thanks guys. I'm excited finally getting it. Already started sanding cover.rainy weather so cant work on boat.
ill get pics up soon as I can.controls that came with boat should hopefully work.I was told it was from evinrude.


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## flajsh (Jun 24, 2012)

Ok. I want to paint this motor. I did a search for Johnson paint and it led me to Jamestown dist.
saw the paint in rattle cans for my motor but it seems to be just for the metal part of motor.
is this correct because I didn't see any paint for the hood.

Already got decals picked out. The ones with Usa flag and Johnson going through it.
man I hope my wife never finds all my reciepts. Ill be sleeping in the boat. [-o<


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## Johny25 (Jun 24, 2012)

Ok if you want it original johnson white (oyster white) then yes I believe the only way to get it is in rattle can. If you decide to buy it over the internet and have it shipped it is going to cost a pretty penny (been there done that). Minimum I would order 3 cans of final coat. They make special johnson primer also. 

But I will never order the johnson oyster white again, to much hassle and it is just not worth the money to match original. I go to the local hardware store and get self etching primer. Works best on bare metal but I have just painted over the spots where it was to hard to sand and it stuck just fine. Then I just get some good off white spray paint that does well in outdoors/water. Then get ya some clear coat or spar varnish. I noticed the spar will yellow the white and it will come out real close to the original oyster color. And I painted the hoods and all with the same paint. All has held up really well...... and I don't have to order paint to match anymore. Only a johnson nutcase like myself will ever know it isn't true johnson oyster white :lol:


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## flajsh (Jun 24, 2012)

Johny25
I feel myself getting a little nutty so I know how you feel. Your motor looks awesome.
I will take your advise and not order it, but for the hood will any primer do.
Everyone on here has been very helpful.


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## Johny25 (Jun 24, 2012)

Yeah I sprayed my hood with the same self etching primer and it has held up fine. It is all in the prep though....... a great prep job makes for a great paint job


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## bigwave (Jun 26, 2012)

I totally missed this thread, congrats on the new/used motor....that thirty will push you just fine.....Hey here is a thought. Why dont you paint the motor to match the boat color? I am thinking of doing mine that way....I don't really care about the original decals although I do like the seahorse. I am thinking a nice tinboat sticker right on the cowling would be better than the black decals that are on there now..hmmmmm always changing my mind..... :? I could see making that motor look original if it was vintage.


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## flajsh (Jun 26, 2012)

bigwave said:


> I totally missed this thread, congrats on the new/used motor....that thirty will push you just fine.....Hey here is a thought. Why dont you paint the motor to match the boat color? I am thinking of doing mine that way....I don't really care about the original decals although I do like the seahorse. I am thinking a nice tinboat sticker right on the cowling would be better than the black decals that are on there now..hmmmmm always changing my mind..... :? I could see making that motor look original if it was vintage.


I'm always changing my mind on things reguarding the tin. I'm gonna do paint as close as I can the way jony25
suggested. Its a long shaft but f4f helping me out with a jack plate for it.
big hell yeah to the tin boat sticker somewhere.


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## bigwave (Jun 27, 2012)

Hey one more thing....when we get our mods done, I was thinking of taking a trip this summer to 10,000 islands down in everglades city.....gonna be a hard one to pull off with the misses since she hates bugs. The last time I was there they had these little half trailers with screen porches and kitchen all the girly stuff.....Maybe we could get fish4fool and a few more to meet there and have a weekend of fishing and family. The fishing there is killer....and it is right by lake ocochobee.......i want to catch a 10lb bass in florida.......I do plan on coming up your way too, or maybe even crystal river for a weekend. That is the whole reason I am doing my boat....cheap to pull,run, and have fun.


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## flajsh (Jul 7, 2012)

Here is a pic of motor. Sorry took so long. Need to take some more.
Only thing I did so far was paint the cowl.
Model # 35el78r
Serial # e4895478
Can anyone tell me year and if its a 30 HP like I was 
Told.


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## jasper60103 (Jul 7, 2012)

flajsh said:


> Here is a pic of motor. Sorry took so long. Need to take some more.
> Only thing I did so far was paint the cowl.
> Model # 35el78r
> Serial # e4895478
> ...



Per the model number, it's a 1978 35 hp Johnson...
https://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1978&hp=35&model=35EL78R


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## Johny25 (Jul 8, 2012)

So yes you really have about a 30hp..... in 78 they rated at the flywheel so prop HP was around 30hp for a 35hp. Good solid motor


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## flajsh (Jul 8, 2012)

Ok. He told me mid 80's but I guess it doesn't matter.
As long as it s a good motor.
Also I don't have it secured down yet, I have to find the 
Clamp bolts somewhere. But I can't get it to tilt. I found 
Two different levers but it won't tilt. Can anyone help with 
What may be wrong, hope its not a major fix.


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## JMichael (Jul 10, 2012)

IDK about your motor but on my Merc, you have to put it in forward in order for the lockdown to release and allow you to tilt/raise the motor.


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## Johny25 (Jul 10, 2012)

flajsh said:


> Ok. He told me mid 80's but I guess it doesn't matter.
> As long as it s a good motor.
> Also I don't have it secured down yet, I have to find the
> Clamp bolts somewhere. But I can't get it to tilt. I found
> ...



The lift lever may be broken, not allowing it to release the pin. You may have to do it by hand, reaching up under where the large trim pin is and lifting the latch over top of the pin so it can tilt up.


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## flajsh (Jul 10, 2012)

Johny25 said:


> flajsh said:
> 
> 
> > Ok. He told me mid 80's but I guess it doesn't matter.
> ...



I noticed there isn't a pin to keep it tilted once I get it tilted. Can one be picked up at west marine or some
Store like it.

I also noticed by the serial # that motor should or was electric start. I wonder if a guy with no experience
with outboards can make it electric start.


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## Johny25 (Jul 11, 2012)

Get some pics up of the motor with the hood off, and also some of the tilt mechanism area and we can help a little more. Yes you can make it back into an electric start but it usually costs a few hundred bucks to get the bracket, starter, solenoid, start button and cables.


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## flajsh (Jul 11, 2012)

F4f was kind enough to give me a mobi jack plate for my motor.
So I got the urge to start it up for the first time since I got it
But I couldn't get it to go 
So I have a few embarrassing questions. There are a button and a button that goes 
In and out. If I remember right the button on right shuts motor off.
And I think one on right should be open when pulling rope.
Is that correct.

Also the second pic should that have three positions.
Rev, forwardand neutral, because I only think its two.
Sorry pics in wrong order.


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## Johny25 (Jul 11, 2012)

Yes the shifter has three positions. Straight up is N, back is R and forward is F. Sometimes you have to move the prop one way or another to get it to shift properly when not running.

The button on the left is the kill switch and the knob on the right is the choke. You may have to shoot a little fuel into the carb to get her started if she has sat for awhile 50:1. Did the guy you bought it from say the motor ran? And from the pics I see it does not look like this was an electric start #-o


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## flajsh (Jul 15, 2012)

This thing driving me nuts. Started up first pull today.
Didn't want to stay running at idle so opened it up and ran 
For awhile but when I took it back down to try to let it 
Idle it died, then wouldn't start.
Not sure what to do next ?
Rebuild fuel pump and lines.


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## Johny25 (Jul 15, 2012)

If it keeps running while you pump the ball on the gas tank then it is a sure sign the fuel pump is bad. Or if you have to pump the ball each time to get it started is another sign


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## JMichael (Jul 16, 2012)

Johny25 said:


> *If it keeps running while you pump the ball on the gas tank then it is a sure sign the fuel pump is bad.* Or if you have to pump the ball each time to get it started is another sign


I had a small Merc that was doing exactly that. It turned out to be an air leak in the fuel line where it connected to the motor. So don't rule out that possibility.


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## flajsh (Jul 16, 2012)

Do I have to go to a Johnson parts place to get correct lines or can I go to auto parts store.


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## Johny25 (Jul 17, 2012)

Pull all your lines off, take them to the auto parts store so you can match the sizes and replace all of them for around $10 bucks. I do this on any of my older motors that I suspect still have original fuel lines.


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## flajsh (Jul 17, 2012)

Johny25 said:


> Pull all your lines off, take them to the auto parts store so you can match the sizes and replace all of them for around $10 bucks. I do this on any of my older motors that I suspect still have original fuel lines.


I guess ill do that this weekend. I wanna get this thing running so I can finish my flooring on boat.


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## flajsh (Jul 24, 2012)

Did carb rebuild kit and cleaned. Did fuel pump rebuild and changed fuel lines. Got interrupted quite a bit by the kids
while doing pump. Is there anyway to test it cause motor still not starting. Thinking I may have messed up fuel pump.


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## Johny25 (Jul 25, 2012)

So it is not even starting now? Spray some fuel directly down the carb and see if she fires. Work backward from there if it fires up.


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## flajsh (Aug 31, 2012)

Haven't been able to work on boat or motor much. But here is where I'm at. New plugs and wires. New fuel lines
cleaned carbon. Checked spark and I have spark and compression good. Getting fuel out of fuel pump but still not
Starting. Sprayed some carbon cleaner in carbon and tried to start. No go. Have next four days off and would like to at least get started. Don't know what else to do. Also fuel is good. Primer bub and line are good.

Need help.


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## jasper60103 (Aug 31, 2012)

flajsh said:


> Haven't been able to work on boat or motor much. But here is where I'm at. New plugs and wires. New fuel lines
> cleaned carbon. Checked spark and I have spark and compression good. Getting fuel out of fuel pump but still not
> Starting. *Sprayed some carbon cleaner in carbon and tried to start.* No go. Have next four days off and would like to at least get started. Don't know what else to do. Also fuel is good. Primer bub and line are good.
> 
> Need help.




Never use carb cleaner or starter fluid for starting a 2 stroke. Mix up some fuel (50:1) and put in a spray bottle then spray down the carb throat.


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## Johny25 (Aug 31, 2012)

jasper60103 said:


> flajsh said:
> 
> 
> > Haven't been able to work on boat or motor much. But here is where I'm at. New plugs and wires. New fuel lines
> ...



Cannot agree more Jasper^ Open the choke butterfly and spray a little bit of 50:1 directly into the intake. If it does not fire up at all then you need to look at spark next. Or did we already check that? Sorry, so many threads going on I cannot remember what we are doing on this one lol.


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