# a new jet ski jet boat project



## scubapro820 (Feb 24, 2012)

I was pointed to this forum after being a member at iboats I hope to get help with an already well underway project but I will fill in more details when I'm sitting at a desktop , but the projects a blue star 14 v hull custom topper and a 1997 tigershark 1000 motor 1998 Yamaha hp 800 pump . I've read many posts about the tigershark brand but I've been building and using the same Suzuki motors for years  as an arctic cat tech and with proper maintenance they last a very long time and I like them  anyway I'm working on mounting the engine then onto steering . Any how thanks in advance to all those who share their experiences I'm excited to be here !


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## scubapro820 (Feb 24, 2012)

Ok now Im on my desktop, so I used 1/8'' aluminum to build an adapter plate to the rear of the boat. I still have to make the support for the pump in the rear. When I get my coupler in the mail I have to mount the engine. Im thinking about using 1/8'' or 1/16th'' aluminum 2x4 or 1x3 tubing to make a cradle type mount for the engine. I had some success using 5356 wire and a push mig setup the cabin on my boat was based on the coast guard design works pretty well for long river trips in minnesota. I use the boat to get to remote areas around the mississippi for hiking hunting and camping trips. 

as for steering there is a push pull setup from teleflex for jet boats that im looking at, does anybody know if the steering wheel and bezel that are teleflex are standard and can be reused. and another thing the jet nozzel looks like it moves 4.25 inches. the kit from teleflex moves 3.5 . I really do want to use a steering wheel for control so I need some help/ ideas here


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## PSG-1 (Feb 24, 2012)

scubapro820 said:


> Ok now Im on my desktop, so I used 1/8'' aluminum to build an adapter plate to the rear of the boat. I still have to make the support for the pump in the rear. When I get my coupler in the mail I have to mount the engine. Im thinking about using 1/8'' or 1/16th'' aluminum 2x4 or 1x3 tubing to make a cradle type mount for the engine.



Right. A rail design, where you run the tubing longitudinally, under each side of the engine, for the motor mounts to bolt into. You really should use 3/16" or even 1/4" wall thickness for the tubing, though. 1/8" is not going to be beefy enough, and 1/16" definitely won't be strong enough either. You also need enough material thickness to put the motor mounting bolts into. I believe the rule of thumb is to have thread engagement that is 3X the diameter of any given fastener. 

So, if you're using 1/4" fasteners, your material thickness really should be 3/4" But I think as long as you use some 3/8" flat stock, welded to the top side of the tubing, at each point for the motor mount, then drill and tap through the flat stock as well as into the top of your tube, that gives you about 5/8" of thread engagement, which should be adequate.





> I had some success using 5356 wire and a push mig setup the cabin on my boat was based on the coast guard design works pretty well for long river trips in minnesota. I use the boat to get to remote areas around the mississippi for hiking hunting and camping trips.




5356 wire is what you should be using for any aluminum that will be used in water, particularly in salt water. 4043 is not as corrosion-resistant as 5356. Also, the 5356 is a much harder wire, which is a good thing if you're using a conventional MIG, instead of a spoolgun. Trying to run the softer 4043 alloy wire through a regular MIG is just asking for a PITA, even if you try using a teflon liner, it's going to bird-nest at the drive rolls. 





> as for steering there is a push pull setup from teleflex for jet boats that im looking at, does anybody know if the steering wheel and bezel that are teleflex are standard and can be reused. and another thing the jet nozzel looks like it moves 4.25 inches. the kit from teleflex moves 3.5 . I really do want to use a steering wheel for control so I need some help/ ideas here



OK, Teleflex makes 2 different helm controls for jet boats. One is configured to be 135 degrees from lock-to-lock. The other is configured for 270 degrees from lock-to-lock. I used the 270 degree on my boat.










The cable you need to use is a Teleflex CC694 series (I think they've changed that to CC6400 recently) Anyhow, this cable has 4 inches of travel, and it uses 5/16" x24 threaded ends, much heavier duty than the CC633 series cable, which uses 10-32 threaded ends.

The CC6400 cable has one end with bulkhead nuts and washers. So, for this end, you just need to make sure that you position the cable where the full travel coincides with the full travel of the steering nozzle. Depending on the set-back of your pump, you may either have to in-set the bulkhead, or move it out, to make the setup work correctly.

This sounds complicated, but basically all it involves is using a short length of round aluminum tubing with an end cap welded into one end, with a hole through the center for the cable to pass through. The tubing ID needs to be large enough to accommodate the cable, with the washers and nuts installed, and it needs to be a little bigger, to allow for a deep well socket to fit in there to tighten the nut (a modified 7/8" oxygen sensor socket works great for this)







Even if you don't have to inset the cable, this socket still works great for cable removal. Basically, modify the O2 sensor by cutting it off close to the end, then splice in a 6" length of pipe of equal diameter.






Anyhow, back to the bulkhead adapter pipe. Use a hole saw and cut a hole through the transom for the aluminum pipe to fit into. Then, with the cable installed into the pipe, and the pipe going through the hull, you install the ball end fitting on the cable and connect the cable to your steering nozzle. Checking full left travel (cable travel extended) then full right travel (cable travel retracted) you move the bulkhead adapter pipe in, or out, as necessary, then tack it in place. Remove the cable from the adapter tubing, and weld the tubing into the transom. (I used square tube for mine....would have been a helluva lot easier with round tubing now that I think about it.)

Here's a few pics to illustrate what I'm trying to explain:



OK, in this one, you see that the cable is actually in-set into the hull, into the piece of square tube. This is a shot of the reverse gate cable. The steering cable is set up in a similar manner.



This is what it looks like from outside the boat:

A shot of the steering cable extension from the transom, with the ride plate removed:





It may be a little difficult to see these clearly, because everything is coated with black anti-fouling paint. 





Now for the helm.....

The other end of the cable is a little different, but it can be made to work in conjunction with the Teleflex jetboat steering helm. There is a fitting that comes with this helm kit, you'll need to drill and tap into this fitting for some stainless set screws to act as keepers for the cable, to keep it from slipping back and forth. (Let me know when you get to this step, I'll walk you through it)






You can see in this closeup shot how the SS set screws hold the cable sleeve in place. 

And just for a little added security, I secured the cable like this:




Yep, those are hose clamps, placed around the cable body. I have a set on the inside, and a set on the outside of the console where the cable passes through. I suppose a bracket could be fabricated with some set screws to secure the cable body, and this bracket could be bolted to the inside of the console. And at some point, I may end up doing that. But I've had no issues with this configuration, so, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.


Again, this is the setup I've been using in my jetboat for nearly 7 years, and it works great. I can spin the boat in its own length at 30 MPH, and I'm talking about a 16 ft DuraCraft johnboat, not a specialized jetboat hull. My steering nozzle travels about 1/8" from full lock in either direction, and the travel on the XL1200 nozzle is about the same as your pump, nearly 4.5 inches.

Anyhow, that's my input for right now. Like I said, when you start getting into doing the modifications, let me know if you have any trouble, I know every idiosyncrasy of doing one of these builds, as I've done it not once, but twice. I can definitely save you some time and difficulty.


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## fender66 (Feb 24, 2012)

Looks like a great project. I'm in to watching this progress.

And....Welcome to TinBoats! You've found the right place.


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## scubapro820 (Feb 24, 2012)

PSG-1 thanks for your input Im going to def have to get more info from ya and maybe some pics for the adapters and fasteners you used for your steering setup. Also is the cc before the number the length of the cable similarly to the last two digits on their other cables>? As for the engine mount Im going to use a nut on the backside of the aluminum tubing, and will def get thicker stuff to fab up with as I am still waiting on my coupler before I take measurements I dont know how much materiel I will need yet ! but when I do I will take plenty of pics.


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## PSG-1 (Feb 24, 2012)

scubapro820 said:


> PSG-1 thanks for your input Im going to def have to get more info from ya and maybe some pics for the adapters and fasteners you used for your steering setup.



I went outside and took a few pics of my setup, and edited the post to include those. Easier to show than to explain, for sure!




> Also is the cc before the number the length of the cable similarly to the last two digits on their other cables>?



Right. If you were going to use an 18 foot cable, the number would read "CC64018" (that's for the 5/16x24 cable) or "CC63318" (that's for the 10-32 cable)




> As for the engine mount Im going to use a nut on the backside of the aluminum tubing, and will def get thicker stuff to fab up with as I am still waiting on my coupler before I take measurements I dont know how much materiel I will need yet ! but when I do I will take plenty of pics.



It's a good idea, but how do you propose to get those nuts inside the tubing, or to get a wrench in there to hold them as you try to tighten the bolts from topside? :?: At least, this dilemma exists if you're using full-length rails. Now, if you're just going to use short sections of tube placed under each motor mount, it won't be an issue.

HOWEVER, if you're using short pieces of tube, instead of full length rails, you're not going to have nearly as much strength in the design, because there is less area that can be welded to secure the rails in place. You'll have to use some type of gussets, and they'll have to be tied into the structure of the boat. Either that, or you'll have to use cross-members that will tie the sections together. But they can't be too thick, or that will interfere with engine clearance underneath.

If you check out my build, I used a sheet of 1/4 plate in the engine compartment, welded to the framework of the boat, to have some good solid material to tie the rail mounts into. And I used full length rails. 

When I installed the TS engine, I actually used carriage bolts, placed from the underside of the rails, then I welded the rails in place. But if one of those bolts had ever snapped, I would have been screwed,(no pun intended). :LOL2: I would have had no way to replace it, except for trying to cut all the welds holding the rail in place.

So, when I re-did the boat with the 4 stroke, I thought about this previous issue, and configured the rails differently, where the bolts simply thread into some really thick material. If you check out "Part 3" of my series "American jetboat High Output" you can see the rails I used for the 4 stroke, and how they differ from the rails used on the 2 stroke, which you can see on my thread "Aluma-Jet" or in my video "Aluma-jet Project"

Again, having done this twice, and with 2 totally different engine systems, I know most of the ins and outs and quirks that you're likely to encounter with doing such a project. Let me know if you hit any snags, I'll be glad to help out.


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## scubapro820 (Feb 24, 2012)

again thanks for yor help the pics and info will be very helpful


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## PSG-1 (Feb 24, 2012)

No problem. If you need any more info give me a holler at:

[email protected]


Good luck with it!


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## scubapro820 (Feb 24, 2012)

I found the cable series youre talking about , looks like tele updated the 6400 series to tel-ccx640xx for a part number but thats great , this is going to save me many headaches


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## PSG-1 (Feb 25, 2012)

Excellent. 

Now, if you ran this idea past the techs at Teleflex, (using the 6400 series cable with the jetboat steering helm) they'd tell you that you need to use the jetboat steering cable. Well, again, the problem with that is that the jetboat steering cable only has 3 inches of travel. Put that on your boat, and it'll have the steering response of a damn barge. I know this because that's the type of cable I initially used on my boat. A waste of time, effort, and money. #-o 

So, don't buy the cable/helm combination they offer. Buy the helm separately, then use the 6400 series cable. It'll require some modification and tweaking to make it work, as I explained earlier, but you'll find that when you get into building a custom boat, a lot of things have to be modified to make them work.


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## scubapro820 (Mar 2, 2012)

Ok so I got my coupler in the mail, babbits partshouse fresh cast from japan! I also picked up my alu 3x1x1/8'' tubing Im going to post a semi to scale sketch and some pics of the motor somewhat in place. the notches in the sketch are to allow the boats supports to remain intact I think its important for the boats rigidity


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## PSG-1 (Mar 3, 2012)

scubapro820 said:


> Ok so I got my coupler in the mail, babbits partshouse fresh cast from japan! I also picked up my alu 3x1x1/8'' tubing Im going to post a semi to scale sketch and some pics of the motor somewhat in place. the notches in the sketch are to allow the boats supports to remain intact I think its important for the boats rigidity





It took me a second to recognize the jet pump. Yours has the intermediate bearing housing, and the full-length drive shaft. Because of the available space in my boat, the drive shaft and the housing of my pump is cut very short, and there is no intermediate bearing, only the bronze bushing and the 2 seals where the shaft exits the intake duct housing. Of course, with the driveshaft of mine being so short, there's not much need for an intermediate bearing anyway, as the shaft has no deflection being that short. I wish mine had that bearing housing, but, it seems to work OK without one.

You'll need to fabricate some type of bracket to bolt the intermediate bearing housing in place.

The coupler you're using looks like a Kawasaki or Yamaha design....I'm guessing Yamaha. The rubber spider between the 2 halves of that coupler will eliminate all metal-to-metal wear, and it will allow for some deflection and vibration. However, it will not allow for mis-alignment. When you go to install your engine rails, you need to dial it in before you bolt it down.

To 'dial it in' you need a straight edge, and a feeler gauge. With the engine connected to the pump, lay the straight edge across the jaws of the coupler, and check for a gap between the straight edge and the coupler jaw with a feeler gauge around the circumference, like top dead center, then at 120 degrees, then at 240 degrees. 

The maximum allowable gap (mis-alignment) is .020" Any more than this will cause premature wear of components like seals or bearings, or the pump shaft, and possibly even the crank shaft of the engine.

You may need to use shims on the motor mounts to get it precisely dialed in. Once you have it dialed in, then you secure the engine mounting system to your hull.

You're taking the right approach by installing the pump before the engine, its much easier to try to align the engine to the pump, than trying to align the pump to the engine.


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## scubapro820 (Mar 4, 2012)

I made my motor mounts last night, theyre just kinda resting and not bolted in yet or shimmed up but it'll go pretty well I think. btw I used a lincoln weldpack 3200hd with 5356 wire and 6061/63 alloy metals It takes a ton of pre heating with a map torch but once the whole piece is good and hot the welder had no problems no feed issues at all! and to think I was starting to think I hated aluminum.


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## PSG-1 (Mar 4, 2012)

It's looking better every time! Good rail design, too, it gives access to the bottom side, so you can install a lock nut, instead of having to use thick material to drill and tap for internal threads, which have the potential for stripping out.

When you first mentioned putting nuts on the back side of the tube, I didn't realize you were going to use 2 separate pieces of tube with a space in between them, I thought you were only using one piece of tube, between the hull and the motor mounts. That's why I was in a quandary about how you were going to put the nuts on the back side. The way you did the mounts is an excellent idea.

As far as welding, a little pre-heat is always a good thing with aluminum, as it assures better penetration on the welds, particularly where you begin a weld. Running aluminum wire through a conventional MIG can be a PITA, it will make you cuss like a sailor sometimes.... I did it for quite a while before I upgraded to a spoolgun. 

The tricks I learned for running aluminum through a conventional MIG: use a teflon liner, keep the lead straight as possible, use a slightly oversize contact tip, minimal drive roll pressure, and hope for the best! (Keeping the gun at an oblique angle when starting a weld also helps, as the wire doesn't 'stab' the base metal, it hits at an angle and glances off, reducing the potential for a bird-nest at the drive rolls.)

I notice that you have the mount rails tied to the hull rails at 2 points. Since you said this tubing has an 1/8" wall, my only concern would be stress cracking of the welds being caused from engine and boat vibration.

If it were me, I'd go along the length of the inside of those 2 rails with a piece of 1/4" plate, cut for the width between the upper and lower rail, for the full length of the rails, to tie them together and eliminate any possibility for deflection, or stress cracking of the welds. Doesn't have to be a continuous seam, either. You can stitch weld, and stagger the stitch welds from the top side to the bottom side.

With the plate along the inside, this still gives you access to install the lock nuts on the bottom side of the mount rail, but as mentioned, it will give a tremendous amount of added rigidity to the rails. 

My thought is that with the 2 rails only being tied together at 2 points, and being 1/8" wall, vibration could cause a weld to crack. And if one gives out, the next one is taking more stress, and it will be next in line. 

It's important to remember that aluminum is only 1/3 the strength of steel, so, you have to account for that with any structure being designed with aluminum. As an example, look at the thickness of material used on an aluminum VS. a steel boat trailer.

Always better to be a little overkill with a design....especially with aluminum. It's better to have that added strength and not need it, than to need it, and not have it! You don't want your motor mounting system shearing loose and leaving you stranded.

But again, I like that rail design you've come up with. Being able to use bolts with lock nuts is a helluva lot better than tapping into a piece of aluminum and relying on threads to hold something in place. If/when I do another jetboat build, I've got the image of your design in the back of my head. Slightly modified, perhaps, but definitely utilizing the concept of being able to use thru-bolts with lock nuts on the back side.


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## Ranchero50 (Mar 5, 2012)

Scubapro820,

I hate to rain on your parade but I think you need to spend a considerable amount of time thinking about how your hull will react to the stresses of water and chop as it moves. As is you have absolutely no structure under the back of that hull. It's all going to flex bad, I doubt your coupler will last and I think it's really unsafe. The old thinhulls are what, .040" thick and have no ribs or stringers. 

I don't see a 100hp inline jet working well unless you build a serious frame between the motor and hull. 

That being said you have a pretty decent foundation. What I would suggest is figuring out some way to add ribs similiar to a newer hull, then run fore and aft stringers to tie the ribs together. The ribs are going to be a major PITA to fabricate and you'd probably be better off to buy a .080" 14' jon, then fit in your motor and pump with stringers supporting the ribs you cut. Actually with a 100hp engine I'd buy a 16' or even 18' hull and build it.

Check out my MV1448 build (in sig), I spent a huge amount of time thinking about the hull, tried to take some decent pictures and tell the story as I built it why I did things certain ways. I am very happy with it and there's only a couple things I would change if I redid it. There's some YouTube videos too.

PSG-1 and I have both been there and can help you get there safely.

Sincerely,
Jamie


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## PSG-1 (Mar 5, 2012)

Ranchero50 said:


> Scubapro820,
> 
> I hate to rain on your parade but I think you need to spend a considerable amount of time thinking about how your hull will react to the stresses of water and chop as it moves. As is you have absolutely no structure under the back of that hull. It's all going to flex bad, I doubt your coupler will last and I think it's really unsafe. The old thinhulls are what, .040" thick and have no ribs or stringers.
> 
> ...





Ya know, I was so focused on the subject of the mounting rails, I didn't even consider hull flex as a factor, but you are absolutely right! There are no ribs or other structural components around the engine to make the hull more rigid. If the engine/driveline assembly cannot be made rigid, at the very least, vibration from the engine operating, and the weight of the engine slapping the hull in chop, fast turns, etc, is going to wear out thru-hull bearings, the coupler, or other components.

Worst case scenario, hull flex could lead to the base metal of the hull actually ripping apart, the engine mounts shearing loose from the hull, and the boat taking on massive amounts of water.






> That being said you have a pretty decent foundation. What I would suggest is figuring out some way to add ribs similiar to a newer hull, then run fore and aft stringers to tie the ribs together. The ribs are going to be a major PITA to fabricate and you'd probably be better off to buy a .080" 14' jon, then fit in your motor and pump with stringers supporting the ribs you cut.







I don't think ribs would be too difficult to fabricate. Make them out of that same 1x3 tubing, make the angle cuts on either end for the vertical piece to go up against the gunwale, fit it together and weld it. 

This might come as a surprise, but, there are no ribs under my engine in my Dura Craft. Granted, my hull is a little thicker, but still not thick enough to support the engine all by itself. 
When I did that build, I used a sheet of 1/4" aluminum plate in the engine well, and where I cut the hole for the pump, I tied the gap between the hull and the 1/4" plate together with some flat aluminum stock, and welded all the way around. The 1/4" plate is also tied to the longitudinal stringers on the outside edges of the engine well, to the transom, and to the rib immediately in front of the engine well. Perhaps something like this would work.

I have photos of this on my "Aluma-Jet" thread, click the link on my signature for more details. 







> Actually with a 100hp engine I'd buy a 16' or even 18' hull and build it.
> 
> Check out my MV1448 build (in sig), I spent a huge amount of time thinking about the hull, tried to take some decent pictures and tell the story as I built it why I did things certain ways. I am very happy with it and there's only a couple things I would change if I redid it. There's some YouTube videos too.
> 
> PSG-1 and I have both been there and can help you get there safely.







You got that right. And like I've said before, I went through a lot of trial and error to figure out what worked and what didn't. I wish I would have had a resource like this board when I did that build, but back in 2005, I don't think the idea of jet ski johnboats was catching on like it is now. 

But having worked through most of the idiosyncrasies on my own, I gained a lot of insight and knowledge, and I'm happy to share that with my fellow jetboat builders. I probably have a lot of other photos of my build that may not be shown on the board, so, if you need other photos, or info, give me a holler at:

[email protected]_REMOVETHIS_gmail.com


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## scubapro820 (Mar 5, 2012)

Thi mod it to fit my hull is much thicker than the alumacraft .040 ere are 3 longitudinal stringers and 2 horizontal stringers 1 I am going to re install after I mod it my hull is much thicker than .040 its..091 or .080 the rear mount plate is 1/8 " and the most rigid part of the boat thanks for the concern guys but I also have put thought into its rigidity I do have more to be added to the hull later also. In Minnesota we have very smooth flat waters


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## scubapro820 (Mar 5, 2012)

* its .91mm


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## PSG-1 (Mar 5, 2012)

I think you mean .091" inches, not mm. That's about the thickness of the hull of my Dura Craft. 

.091" is roughly 14 ga, as .062" is 16 ga, and .125" is 11 ga.


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## scubapro820 (Mar 5, 2012)

Ugh metric English or some such lol its heavier than an alumacraft whichever it is


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## PSG-1 (Mar 5, 2012)

LOL, I knew what you meant. :mrgreen: 

.91 mm would be like a beer can.


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## Ranchero50 (Mar 6, 2012)

scubapro820 said:


> Thi mod it to fit my hull is much thicker than the alumacraft .040 ere are 3 longitudinal stringers and 2 horizontal stringers 1 I am going to re install after I mod it my hull is much thicker than .040 its..091 or .080 the rear mount plate is 1/8 " and the most rigid part of the boat thanks for the concern guys but I also have put thought into its rigidity I do have more to be added to the hull later also. In Minnesota we have very smooth flat waters



Sorry if my post sounded too negative. I would beef up those little ribs in your hull with maybe some 1"x3"x.125" angle stood upright, trimmed to fit the contour and then welded to the existing ribs. Then you can tie the whole hull structure together from the seat to the transom with some decent stringers. I think I used 2x2x3/16" angle for the stringers and had the motor cradle mount to that. You could use that as a floor base.

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=8385

For your cradle, you can drill out the top motor mount holes and insert a round rod spacer so the bolts won't collapse the channel over time. I was dissapointed at how poorly those rubber pucks dampen vibrations. I tapped my stringer for the bolt, then lock nutted it too and it hasn't come loose yet.

Jamie


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## Ride_Klein (Mar 6, 2012)

Cool project.

I'll echo what the previous guys have said about stiffening the bottom around your inlet. My project has a couple stiffening ribs that run through the area of the inlet and I'm glad they are there. As a matter of fact, I wish I had a few more around the pump tunnel I mounted. The jet will make you want to run very shallow. Running very shallow is a lot of fun, but you will hit things. You can see how things could get messy in a hurry.

Keep up the great work. Read through my thread if you'd like. I'm happy to offer any advice, but PSG and Rancherro are the experts for sure.

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=22354

RK


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## scubapro820 (Mar 6, 2012)

Thanks for your support guys, Ive looked at all three projects. Actually all b4 I even got started on mine lol. I haven't replied much since sat just been busy with life and thinking of ways to engineer a support structure and incorporate it as part of a mount for my cdi/fuse box and rear deck that I plan on building eventually.


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## PSG-1 (Mar 6, 2012)

Here's an idea for the CDI mount:




This is how I mounted the CDI in my boat. Used a piece of aluminum angle, welded between some structural supports, and bolted the CDI to this piece of angle. Had to put it here, as there was no room to put it anywhere else.


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## PSG-1 (Mar 6, 2012)

Ranchero50 said:


> For your cradle, you can drill out the top motor mount holes and insert a round rod spacer so the bolts won't collapse the channel over time. I was dissapointed at how poorly those rubber pucks dampen vibrations. I tapped my stringer for the bolt, then lock nutted it too and it hasn't come loose yet.
> 
> Jamie



Good idea for putting the spacer/sleeve in the tubing, to keep the engine weight from collapsing it. I would have suggested a strip of 1/4" X 3" aluminum plate on top of the tubing, but the spacers will also work. Even on flat water, without the factor of hull chop, engine vibration is a serious factor to contend with. When you've got that much weight vibrating around, it's gotta be secure, especially at lower RPM's, where vibration is really pronounced. 

Certain types of motor mounts are better at isolating and dampening vibration than others. The Sea Doo 717 mounts do transfer a lot of vibration. I can remember my Sea Doo 14' Speedster with twin 717's, it had a lot of vibration, even in a fiberglass hull.


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## scubapro820 (Mar 11, 2012)

I was talking with my aunt for a bit about how I think my 2500$ boat will be faster than her 60,000$ boat @42mph I estimate 45-50mph for mine. Any way turns out she works for a company that makes custom isolation mounts for generators all the way to ships kinda neat so she can custom engineer a set if I need to !! any how i mounted my cdi box and intermediate shaft bearing/ dampener thing. I accidentally made it so I have to un screw the cdi box to grease it but oh well small overshigt. then I finished the rear pump housing adapter thing I built and also reattached the corner braces that support the transom somebody had previously used self tapping screws I used stainless steel 1/4 20 fasteners that will help stiffen the hull more too. I am also going to make a deck that stiffens the keel area of the hull too. I wont order my steering gear for a couple weeks but I think testing will start in april. Does anyone know about a good spray on sealant? kinda like a rubber urethane spray or bedliner like materiel to prevent water from coming in . otherwise I have to rtv 1000 rivets lol


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## PSG-1 (Mar 11, 2012)

Well, it looks like you're almost through the worst of it, getting the pump and engine installed.

Everything else should be fairly easy, the only quirk might be with the steering, depending on the setback of the steering arm from the hull, as I mentioned earlier.

Also, extending the throttle cable, if you have to, might be a little tricky. Some Tigersharks use a dual linkage, that controls the carb butterflies, as well as the oil injection pump. A single cable runs into this. You can open up this housing, and change out the cable, as well as the conduit that goes into it from the helm.

You can buy throttle cable conduit and fittings on the net, just check around. I would suggest not using the galvanized wire cable, though, get some 1/16" diameter SS cable, as the galvanized stuff will corrode, and will fail.

Let me know if you run into any trouble with the cables, etc....I can save you some aggravation and time.


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## scubapro820 (Mar 28, 2012)

I got side tracked last week and the week b4 that I got a dana 44 off an 84 jeep wagoneer, then I got an 83 k20 6.2 diesel truck for free! it had "major" electrical problems I went over jumped a couple wires drove it home and fixed the "problems" sunday. So I have 3 projects but this weekend Im going to install the helm and measure for steering cable length. Did I mention I made an engine compartment out of 1x1 and 1/8 plywood and stapled carpet to it, should be quiet. I also leak tested the hull, seems pretty water tight, about 1 gallon in 10min. So the rest is probably gonna be boring lots of wires hoses and such with few updates until I get to testing.


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## PSG-1 (Mar 29, 2012)

If you want to dampen the engine noise a little more, get some acoustical "egg crate" foam from McMaster-Carr and place it on the inside of the cowling. It will make a big difference. It's much better than Dyno-Mat, and it's also a LOT lighter in weight.

As far as leak testing, 1 gallon in 10 minutes may not seem like a major leak if you're on the water for a couple of hours, but if you plan on leaving it moored to the dock overnight, then ANY amount of leakage is unacceptable. 

And while you may have a bilge pump and float switch, my experience with that setup is that more boats have sunk BECAUSE of an "automatic" bilge pump than have ever sunk without one at all. it gives you a false sense of security, and float switches are notorious about either not coming on, and the boat filling with water, or, if they do turn on, then they don't turn off, it kills the battery, then, any more water coming into the boat is no longer pumped out, and the boat sinks.

If it were me, I'd try to find the source of the leak, and either weld it up, or use some 5200, and try to get the boat water tight.

Keep us posted on the installation of the steering system, and remember my advice about the setback of the pump from the hull, you may not be able to just put the cable through the transom, you might have to inset it, or extend it out from the hull, depending on the distance from the transom to the ball joint of the steering arm of the nozzle.


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## scubapro820 (Apr 2, 2012)

I got my steering connected ready for cable measurement working on electrical /harnes-extension stuff ill try to get more pics im having issues making a guage bezel (the circle cutting part) but yeah I wanna be running next week Still have to make the mount for the back side of the pump and somesuch but it is moving along....


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## PSG-1 (Apr 2, 2012)

You can use a 2" hole saw (for small guages) or a 4" hole saw if you're trying to do the cut-outs for your gauges. it's much faster and much more precise than trying to cut with a saw or other methods.


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## scubapro820 (Apr 17, 2012)

Its been slow since last week, just dont have the free time just need a day to finish stuff up, basically I have to extend the exhaust measure and install the steering cable connect trim, run the oil hose and throttle, I think I am going to shoot for sea trials by may 1st got a ton done tho any reason i shouldnt install an inline primer bulb or primer pump to fill up the pulse pump ? I have 8 ft of fuel line also I mounted the tank from the ski in the bow of my boat


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## PSG-1 (Apr 18, 2012)

scubapro820 said:


> Its been slow since last week, just dont have the free time just need a day to finish stuff up, basically I have to extend the exhaust measure and install the steering cable connect trim, run the oil hose and throttle, I think I am going to shoot for sea trials by may 1st got a ton done tho any reason i shouldnt install an inline primer bulb or primer pump to fill up the pulse pump ? I have 8 ft of fuel line also I mounted the tank from the ski in the bow of my boat




I wouldn't recommend installing a primer bulb. Jet skis don't use them, and for good reason, because the carbs and fuel system of a jet ski are a little different than those of an outboard. First off, the vent line on a jet ski has a check valve that only allows air in, but nothing to flow out. This allows pressure to build up, which is what helps to feed the system. Outboard portable fuel tanks have free-flow vents. Most permanently mounted tanks for outboard also have free flowing vent lines, no check valves.

A primer bulb forces fuel through the line. You don't want to be trying to force fuel through the system like that, it could damage a diaphragm in one of the carbs. Once you have fuel in the tank, and all the lines are hooked up, when you start cranking it, the fuel pump will start to pull a vacuum. It might take a few tries, but it will catch prime and pull fuel to the carbs. Once it's primed, it will stay primed. Make sure to install an anti-siphon check valve on the feed hose going to the carbs.

Now, depending on how hard it is to cold-start, you might want to think about installing a primer KIT. Basically, it's a small nozzle for each carb (you have to drill and install the fittings), each nozzle has a barb fitting, and some 1/8" ID hose that hooks to each fitting, then to a primer knob mechanism. This mechanism is hooked to a T fitting on your reserve fuel line. So, when you push and pull the knob a few times, it gives a quick shot of fuel to the carbs, making a choke unnecessary. Saves on battery life, too.

I had one on the TS1000 engine in my jetboat, worked really good, even on mornings when there was ice in the marsh. But now with the 4 stroke, it's no longer necessary, as this engine uses an electrical fuel pump that pushes fuel at about 45 PSI. Turn the key, it fires up, no question, every time.


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## scubapro820 (Apr 18, 2012)

excellent observation on the diaphram issue, i did make sure to use the check valves (in correct orientation) I measured for steering cable length and today I will order a 13 ft cable thats about a foot longer than the 12ft 3 inches but i want to be on the safe side, ive been known to order the wrong part before! and my wife is usually very unhappy with that lol. As far as battery is concerned should I stick with the Agm battery the tigershark used or is it ok to use my marine starting battery? There are no extra loads on the original (lengthened) tigershark harness. I dont want to be short starting power or burn up my stator.


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## PSG-1 (Apr 18, 2012)

scubapro820 said:


> excellent observation on the diaphram issue, i did make sure to use the check valves (in correct orientation) I measured for steering cable length and today I will order a 13 ft cable thats about a foot longer than the 12ft 3 inches but i want to be on the safe side, ive been known to order the wrong part before! and my wife is usually very unhappy with that lol. As far as battery is concerned should I stick with the Agm battery the tigershark used or is it ok to use my marine starting battery? There are no extra loads on the original (lengthened) tigershark harness. I dont want to be short starting power or burn up my stator.





Always better to order a cable a foot or so longer than you measure for. You can always tuck the slack away someplace if it's a little long, but if it's too short, you can't stretch the dang thing!

As for your battery, if the only thing you are running is the engine, no lights, radio, etc, an AGM battery might be OK. But, if you're running anything else, you should use a regular marine battery. If it were me, I'd go ahead with the full size battery, that way you know you have the cranking amps.


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## scubapro820 (Apr 18, 2012)

That ok for a stator to charge ?


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## PSG-1 (Apr 18, 2012)

scubapro820 said:


> That ok for a stator to charge ?



I'm not sure what the amp output is on the stator of the TS engine. The manual may specify it. 

I know that my Yamaha MR-1 High Output engine puts out about 14 amps at 6K RPM, but then, this engine came out of a boat, not a jet ski.

That said, if your stator has a low amp output, it will just take longer to fully charge the battery. I ran a marine battery on my TS1000 engine...actually 2 marine batteries, hooked together. Never had any problems with the stator on my engine.


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## scubapro820 (Apr 18, 2012)

I'll take ur experience as a yes it'll be fine ill be sure to let u know when I get more done


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## PSG-1 (Apr 18, 2012)

When I had the TS engine in my boat, I had a lot of other stuff hooked up, like nav lights, illuminated gauges, radio, depthfinder, blower, bilge pump, etc. So, the following info is for if you decide to install anything, particularly nav lights.... how to cut the voltage consumption.


I noticed that the voltage on my depthfinder would drop when I'd cut on the nav lights. Nothing that the engine couldn't keep up with, but it would drop to around 11 volts.

I switched to LED's for the nav lights and instrument panel, and that reduced the voltage consumption significantly. 

Later on when I put the 4 stroke in my boat, I installed a set of prow lights that had 55 watt halogens. Whenever I'd cut these on, the volt meter would drop big time, even with a stator output of 14 amps. So, I switched to MR-16 LED's, and that solved that issue.


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## scubapro820 (Apr 18, 2012)

Lol yea that's 8-9 Amps for the pair of em I.think the ts is rated at 4 or 8 amps it would be kinda nice to mount a alternator generator for xtra juice one of the self fielding types in a bigger rig like yours


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## scubapro820 (Apr 22, 2012)

Oil lines all hooked up and bled used the 1/2'' id tubing ac used to prevent an air bubble issue, clear hose helps with that, I also shimmed the motor to get the coupler in happy allignment. and I sealed the front of the boat where a hatch used to be and installed my fuel/oil filler caps its looking pretty nice. The trim motor is connected to a special rod I made out of cold rolled 5/16 rod far stronger than the 3/16 rod it had b4 and harder than stainless. I also got some new lexan for the side windows and bolted up my pumps support brace using all stainless hardware and added a zinc anode. Dont mind the very lumpy padding I know im not good at mig welding aluminum lol


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## scubapro820 (Apr 22, 2012)

this is how i lost my side corner windows , @ 30 seconds also the design i was inspired by . thank you USCG https://youtu.be/d7BQXXRLiac


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## PSG-1 (Apr 22, 2012)

Looking good.

Have you thought about a reverse gate? I see that your pump has the trim system. The 800 pump is very similar to the XL1200 pump. The XL1200 has reverse, but no trim, because its design uses a reverse gate that's mounted to the steering nozzle, so, it can't have both.

For instance, on my boat, If I wanted a trim system, I'd have to switch to a GP1200 nozzle, then bore out the fittings on the sides of my pump, and install the trim ring system between the thrust nozzle and the steering nozzle.

But then I'd have no reverse, unless I used the type that bolts to the boat itself, like a sea-doo design, or the newer yamaha designs. So, I'll stick with having reverse and having to deal with a fixed trim system. I use a +5 degree nozzle, and then a slight bend on the last inch of my ride plate, to eliminate high speed porpoising.

So, as your nozzle has trim, but no reverse, if you wanted a reverse system, you'd have to use the sea-doo type. A little bit of a PITA, but reverse is a nice thing to have on any boat, so, it would be well worth looking into.

Definitely looks like you're getting there, though, the engine and drive system is the biggest task of doing one of these boats. The rest is just cables, hoses and wires.


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## PSG-1 (Apr 22, 2012)

scubapro820 said:


> this is how i lost my side corner windows , @ 30 seconds also the design i was inspired by . thank you USCG https://youtu.be/d7BQXXRLiac



Impressive dive! Looks about like the conditions you'd encounter at the mouth of an inlet going into the ocean. I've been through a few inlets like this, and nearly did a dive like that one time, except, it was in a johnboat...not exactly the type of boat to be doing that with :shock: 

Of course, when I was a kid, I was also crazy enough to jump breakers in the ocean with johnboats, running them like jet skis, catching some serious air. (And I wonder why my lower back is screwed up? LOL)


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## scubapro820 (Apr 22, 2012)

I know I'm.so.excited to.drive it I have walkers stop by and ask all.sorts of.questions they are so curious about it like how fast it is stuff I want to know as fas as reverse goes I have a shallow hull and I.know I'd.swamp my boats very short and I have a paddle lol I hope.to take it out next week when my cable arrives


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## scubapro820 (Apr 22, 2012)

Yeah the dive scared the crap out of me lol it was on a wake from a river barge then multiplied in size by a wing dam


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## PSG-1 (Apr 22, 2012)

Sounds good. So, which steering helm and cable did you go with?


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## scubapro820 (Apr 22, 2012)

The teleflex 270* and CCx640 series cable which will arrive next week


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## scubapro820 (Apr 24, 2012)

I got the exhaust and throttle done Maiden voyage this sunday if all goes well just the waiting on the steering cable now!!!!!


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## PSG-1 (Apr 24, 2012)

Nice! =D> I see you routed the exhaust through the jet tunnel box....that's the best method for toning down the noise.

You can also tone it down some more by making some rubber skirting that will fit in this box, coped out to fit around the jet pump nozzle. 

Check out 'Part 4' Of 'American Jetboat High Output' to see an example of what I'm talking about, you can see how I did it on my boat. This is basically how Yamaha does their new 4 stroke skis, and it definitely makes a difference.


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## scubapro820 (Apr 24, 2012)

Yeah I do want quite I think I'm gonna make a inline ball valve and fitting to run the boat out of the water for tuning so I can use. The garden hose for cooling


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## PSG-1 (Apr 24, 2012)

scubapro820 said:


> Yeah I do want quite I think I'm gonna make a inline ball valve and fitting to run the boat out of the water for tuning so I can use. The garden hose for cooling



Not sure I follow you on that. Do you mean a hose connector so you can hook the boat to the garden hose for flushing/running out of the water? If so, all you need to do for that is have the 3/4" internally threaded fitting like Tigershark uses for the water outlet on the side of the ski, then a short adapter hose that goes from female garden hose threads on one end, to male 3/4" threads to screw into that outlet. (I'm thinking they're 3/4"...unless it's some fruity metric BS) Then get a shut-off valve for the end of the water hose.

This method of flushing (running water into the outlet) gives a reverse flow, which is actually quite useful for dislodging any type of sand or debris in the cooling system. Doing a reverse flow flush, the water will back-flow, through the fitting on your jet pump, and some of it will also flow through your waterbox....again, useful for flushing out any debris. 

I had a ball valve inline on my Tigershark, it was between the jet pump and the engine. This allowed me to hook the garden hose to the engine of my jetboat and flush it out _while it was in the salt water_...as the valve stops the flow of water from the jet pump. Then, after flushing, shut the engine down, and open the ball valve back up. 

BUT.....there is too much risk of forgetting to open the ball valve after flushing, then, the next time you crank up, you run hot. I did it a couple of times with the TS engine. 

So, when I put the High Output in there, I didn't bother with the ball valve.....just an inline water strainer to catch trash, the same one I used on the TS engine. 

That's one thing I WOULD recommend *very strongly.* (Strainer) That, and an outboard water pressure gauge, so you can instantly see if there's an issue with the cooling system, like a clog from trash. 

But as far as trying to shut off the salt water flow from my jet pump, I figured out that if you only operate the engine at low RPM while flushing it in the water, the pump doesn't generate enough PSI to over-ride the garden hose pressure, so, no salt water goes into the engine. I tested it by checking a water sample flowing out of the discharge fitting from the engine, checked it with a salinity meter, definitely fresh water. 

And since putting the HO engine in the boat last year, I don't leave it in the salt water as much, at least not more than a few days at a time. With the TS, I would leave it in for a few weeks at a time. But in both cases, I make sure that I have good, working zinc anodes on my boat, as well as good bottom paint. Very important in saltwater.


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## scubapro820 (Apr 24, 2012)

Yea that's what I meant ill skip the ball blvalve I actually have a strainer inline it came with the donor ski its wise to keep it clear of sediment for cleaning how much water pressure do you get ? Also how fast was h/o with the ts1000


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## PSG-1 (Apr 24, 2012)

scubapro820 said:


> Yea that's what I meant ill skip the ball blvalve I actually have a strainer inline it came with the donor ski



That's basically the strainer I have....mine is made by Jabsco, I think, but it's about the same as the factory strainer used in the TS jet skis. 





> its wise to keep it clear of sediment for cleaning



While I criticize some of the faults with the design of the TS engines.....that's one thing Tigershark definitely got right, putting a strainer on the water inlet line. You don't see that on Yamaha or other brands of PWC's. And as anyone who has ever operated a jet ski through debris-laden water knows....they are vacuum cleaners, and have the tendency to chop things up, into fine particles that are bad for clogging the cooling system. And since the prop is what feeds the cooling system, unlike an outboard motor, a jet ski engine can clog twice as fast.





> how much water pressure do you get ?



With my engine turning 7 grand, (which is actually about 5 grand at the prop, due to a 1.47:1 reduction gear system used on the HO engine)....I'm getting about 7-8 PSI according to my gauge.

When I wind out to WOT at 10 grand, (which is about 6,900 RPM at the prop) I'm getting around 12-14 PSI. 

The gauge DOES indeed work, because this past winter, I ran across a sandbar (which I barely cleared) and I saw the roostertail of mud and sand, then I saw the PSI on the gauge instantly drop, so, I shut 'er down, and checked my strainer....sure enough, it was jammed with mud. (to clear it, you remove the cap and screen, then turn the engine over and give it a quick shot of throttle and shut the engine down) But the point is, I was able to immediately detect the problem and shut down BEFORE overheating.

After seeing how effective the gauge was at preventing an overheat, I put one on my Triton, for my 50 Merc.







> Also how fast was h/o with the ts1000




I get about 45 MPH with the HO. I got about 37 with the TS1000.


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## scubapro820 (Apr 25, 2012)

I'm not much of a shallow runner but I might get into some muddy stuff a time or.two so I will keep a close eye on the filter till I get a gauge. I wonder how.fast mine will go it is only 14 ft and about 550lbs curb weight also got my steering installed tonight! :LOL2:


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## PSG-1 (Apr 25, 2012)

scubapro820 said:


> I'm not much of a shallow runner but I might get into some muddy stuff a time or.two so I will keep a close eye on the filter till I get a gauge. I wonder how.fast mine will go it is only 14 ft and about 550lbs curb weight also got my steering installed tonight! :LOL2:





You don't have to be a shallow runner to plug up the cooling system. In the fall, and spring, when there are a lot of leaves on the surface of the water, just running across that will foul your impeller, intake duct, or the cooling system. Just keep an eye on the indicator stream until you get your gauge. 

I'm thinking your top speed should be between 40-45 MPH, maybe a little more. It's a hard thing to predict, it's dependent upon the surface area of the boat, and its relative drag in the water. 

Steering looks great...and it looks like you didn't have to do a set-back or an extension from the bulkhead to get the right amount of throw. Either you got lucky, or you measured that ahead of time, while you were installing the pump, etc.

Looks like you're just about ready for the water! Keep us posted. 8)


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## scubapro820 (Apr 25, 2012)

I never even considered foliage in the fall! The steering cable working that way was a total accident I wish I could say it was planned but I saw the cable for the first time in my life yesterday. I am so excited for the water my goal was to have it completed by May 1st all I have left is fueling and some last minute water tightening and a final once over.


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## PSG-1 (Apr 25, 2012)

scubapro820 said:


> I never even considered foliage in the fall!




Not sure how bad it is where you live, but here, the cypress trees drop a lot of foliage, and it can get bad enough to clog the intake grate for the jet pump (which is where the stomp grate comes in handy) 

If you decide to build a stomp grate, check out my aluma-jet thread for some photos and ideas on how to do it, since the pump you're using is very similar to mine.




> The steering cable working that way was a total accident I wish I could say it was planned but I saw the cable for the first time in my life yesterday.




LOL, well, looks like it worked out perfect. Your luck is better than mine.

I didn't have a cable to reference when I did mine, nor did I take that into consideration....so, I had to do a set-back on mine to get the travel of the cable to match up with the travel of the nozzle. 






> I am so excited for the water my goal was to have it completed by May 1st all I have left is fueling and some last minute water tightening and a final once over.



Believe me, I know the feeling! The anticipation will about drive you crazy. But I think you're going to be pleased with the outcome of the project once you get 'er done. Nice work!


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## scubapro820 (Apr 25, 2012)

i just f'ed up really bad i think! i started the hose and had the boat on a reverse incline and the motor filled with water i pulled the plugs and ran it till no water blew out and it looked like water was dripping out of.the crankcase on the bottom a few inches from the stator and crank.side ends


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## PSG-1 (Apr 25, 2012)

scubapro820 said:


> i just f'ed up really bad i think! i started the hose and had the boat on a reverse incline and the motor filled with water i pulled the plugs and ran it till no water blew out and it looked like water was dripping out of.the crankcase on the bottom a few inches from the stator and crank.side ends



First thing....don't panic! It's not as bad as you think. As someone who's ridden jet skis for the last 30 years, I've swamped more than my share of engines, in salt water, at that.....so, I know how to deal with the problem of a water-flooded engine.

Not sure how that could have happened, as the cooling system works on the principle of total loss....meaning, all the water that flows in, should flow out. 

While flushing, part of the water should be flowing from the fitting inside your jet pump. 

Some of the water should also be exiting the discharge/indicator stream fittings. 

And, finally, some water should flow from a fitting on the head pipe, into the waterbox, and this water should flow from the exhaust fitting.

The only reason your engine would fill with water, would be turning on the garden hose before starting the engine. Remember, with an outboard, it's water on, engine on, engine off, water off. With a PWC engine, it's engine on, water on, water off, engine off.

If not this, then the other culprit would be a blockage in one of the discharge hoses, such as the thru-hull, or the line from the head pipe to the waterbox. Again, check for water flow at the exhaust, the indicator fitting, and at the jet pump.

You did the right thing by pulling the plugs and turning it over. You should also try turning it over with the bow of the boat tilted down, then up, so that any water in the crankcase can find its way to a cylinder and blow out of there. It would REALLY be preferable to turn the engine upside down while turning it over, as this is the SOP for clearing water from a swamped jet ski engine. But if that's not possible, you keep pulling the plugs and turning it over, then running it, and repeating until you've got it dried out. Don't leave it wet, it will rust.


After you're sure you've got it reasonably dried out, you should also put a shot of fogging oil in each cylinder, to keep it from rusting before you get the problem assessed. 

Once you've got the problem addressed, crank the engine, and run it for a good amount of time to help burn off any remaining water, or get it moving around. Then pull the plugs, and try blowing it again, to make sure you've got all the water out.


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## scubapro820 (Apr 25, 2012)

Got.it.running well I had water in fuel about a gallon and managed to clear the engine of water hope I didn't severely damage the engine


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## scubapro820 (Apr 25, 2012)

Ur right I was a dumbass and started the hose b4 running it and after.driing it has a massive amount of water.in the fuel.tank last time I checked engines don't burn h2o lol fixed both issues will fog the engine tomorrow


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## PSG-1 (Apr 25, 2012)

scubapro820 said:


> Got.it.running well I had water in fuel about a gallon and managed to clear the engine of water hope I didn't severely damage the engine



Trust me, you didn't. Like I said, I've swamped plenty of jet skis over the years, doing tricks like 'submarine' and 'fire hose' (check out my video 'super jet') and this being done in salt water, not fresh water from the garden hose. 

Also, since you did not have the engine under a load (prop in the water) and since you weren't turning high RPM's (were you?) there wouldn't be a heavy enough load on the crankshaft to damage anything, even with some water in the crankcase.

The trick is to make sure you get all the water out, by blowing it out of the cylinders, and also by running it some, to 'cook off' any remaining water.


I'm not sure how you got water in your fuel, unless the water backed up into the cylinders far enough to enter the carbs, then flowing from the return line back to the tank. That's the only possible way I see that happening. If that's so, you might want to go ahead and service the carbs, take them apart and clean them, then re-install.


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## PSG-1 (Apr 25, 2012)

scubapro820 said:


> Ur right I was a dumbass and started the hose b4 running it and after.driing it has a massive amount of water.in the fuel.tank last time I checked engines don't burn h2o lol fixed both issues will fog the engine tomorrow




Don't feel bad. This is a common mistake with PWC owners that are accustomed to the method of flushing an outboard. 

The difference in the cooling systems is that the OBM is fed from a water pump, with the impeller fixed to the driveshaft. So, the instant the engine is cranked, the impeller is turning. Run it dry, and you've just burned up the impeller. Also, any water that is being forced to the system while the engine is not running, like from the garden hose flusher.....drains back out through passages, and with the motor being vertical, this occurs easily.

On the PWC, the cooling system is fed by pressure from the jet pump, there is no water pump impeller. Therefore, dry starting will not hurt a PWC, but they should never be run for more than 30 seconds without water, as they have aluminum blocks, and if you overheat the block, it will likely warp, causing engine failure down the road. 

HOWEVER, and this is where the issue is.....the PWC engine is configured horizontally, and it also has a water box on the exhaust system. Under normal operation, water flows from a fitting on the head pipe to the waterbox, and serves to cool the waterbox, as well as baffling some of the exhaust noise. As the engine operates, the exhaust pressure from the engine is enough to keep water blowing out of the waterbox. 

But, if the engine is not running, and water is forced through the system, there is no exhaust pressure to blow the water out of the waterbox, and it begins to fill up, until it flows back into the exhaust passages of the engine, then into the engine itself (about like running a hose at full pressure up the exhaust pipe of a vehicle while it's not running) [-X 

Again, as long as you blow as much water from the crankcase as you can, service the carbs (or at least drain the contaminated fuel, replace it with fresh fuel, and change the fuel filter) then run the engine for a while, you've learned a lesson the hard way, but with no real damage done.

When you DO start it up, if you haven't already, I can almost bet that a massive amount of water will surge from the exhaust fitting, where it's accumulated in the water box.


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## scubapro820 (Apr 27, 2012)

https://s1127.photobucket.com/albums/l628/scubapro820/?action=view&current=VIDEO0013.mp4 very poor video but it didnt sink or blow up! 

problems

1: Cap flew off the extra water outlet, 
2:spark plug insulator broke Not sure why, Was a slow trip home
3: minor leaks
4: pitch on the impeller is not correct the engine easily over revvs
5: HOLY GOD ITS LOUD " thank you hearing protection"
6: it idles quite high 3-4,500rpm 
7: top speed with 3 ppl 575lbs 32mph

whats not wrong 
1: steering 
2: Trim 
3: electronics
4: bilge/ guages
5: no cavitation!


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## PSG-1 (Apr 27, 2012)

scubapro820 said:


> https://s1127.photobucket.com/albums/l628/scubapro820/?action=view&current=VIDEO0013.mp4 very poor video but it didnt sink or blow up!



I watched the video, with my head tilted to the right....LOL Other than the camera being sideways, good video! Good enough that I was able to hear and see enough to help assess a few things, at least.

As far as no sinking or blowing up....well, that's 2 major things that did not go wrong, and that's always a good thing.




> problems
> 
> 1: Cap flew off the extra water outlet,
> 2:spark plug insulator broke Not sure why, Was a slow trip home
> ...



1. Extra water outlet: Are you referring to the one on the pump?

I noticed the stream of water shooting way off to the starboard side..... this is from the fitting on the top right side on your jet pump that would normally hook to the 'enema' fitting on the Yamaha jet skis (that silly little stream of water they have that shoots straight up) Know what I did with that fitting on my boat? I ran it to a quick connect deck fitting, for a wash down hose connection.







Yeah, you have to be running at speed for it to have any pressure, but it works pretty good. I can run along, and use my little coil hose with the spray nozzle, and rinse mud and junk off the deck.






2. Broken spark plug insulator: Only a couple of things cause this....accidentally dropping a plug, or something striking the plug, both of which will crack the insulator. In the process of taking the plugs out, while blowing water out, it is possible you dropped one, or possibly banged an adjacent plug with the wrench while removing one of the plugs. NEVER re-use a dropped/impacted plug...it ain't worth the potential engine damage that can result.

3. Minor leaks: Are the leaks from hoses and fittings, or hull leaks? Either way, they're minor, and I'm sure you'll get those addressed. 

4: Impeller pitch: If you don't think the pitch is right, you can have the prop re-pitched. Look up "Impros Impeller Repair" They can build up worn down props, sharpen them, and they can also re-pitch them to whatever you want. You should talk to one of the techs, and give them your info, such as boat weight, type of engine, type of pump, and they can help figure out what pitch will help the boat run its best. With my XL1200 pump, I've run a Solas X prop in 14.5/17, had good results with that. Right now, I'm running a Solas Concord prop in 13/19 pitch.

5: LOUD....yep, that's one thing about Tigersharks, they are loud as hell. You might consider building a platform on your transom like I did with my boat. When I had the TS engine, this platform helped to quiet it down a LOT. And then when I put the 4 stroke in there, from the shore, you don't even hear the boat unless it's moving away from you. 









Also, you don't have a cowling. You should consider fabricating one, and lining the inside of it, and the engine well, with some egg crate foam. You'd be amazed what a difference that will make. Also it will protect your engine from the elements, or being damaged if you get swamped.


6. High Idle: Make sure your idle stop screw on the front carb is properly adjusted, and make sure that your throttle cable has some slack, there should be a small amount of travel in the throttle lever before you see the throttle linkage move. The idle should be set out of the water, at about 1750 RPM. In the water, with a load on the prop, it'll be about 1100 RPM. Don't set the idle in the water, because it will idle too high out of the water, when you take the load off the prop.


7. Top speed 32 MPH. Is that a GPS'ed speed, or according to a speedometer? Also, remember that the pilothouse on your boat is going to create a lot of wind drag. I have a T-top that bolts onto my jetboat for wintertime use, when I have it on there, I lose a few MPH's because of the wind drag. Also, re-pitching the prop may help. You want the impeller pitch to allow the engine to operate at its max RPM, but don't over-pitch it too high, or the engine will not reach full RPM, and it will be under a much heavier load. Under-pitching has the opposite effect....15 MPH at 7 grand, LOL Again, the folks at Impros should be able to help you out.





> whats not wrong
> 1: steering
> 2: Trim
> 3: electronics
> ...






I figured the steering would be right when I saw the photos of the cable installed. 

Having working trim is a good thing, too....you should notice the boat lifting at about the halfway point in the trim, and it should pick up a few MPH's. With the trim down, the steering should be very quick and responsive, like being able to spin a 180 in the boat's own length.

Working electronics and gauges is also a good thing. I always seem to have problems in this area when I build a boat.....everything else works good, but it's always something fruity going on with a gauge, usually minor, like a ground wire.

And finally, no cavitation is a great thing, because this is the most common problem with jetboat conversions to johnboats, it's worse on flat bottom boats like mine. Yours being a V-hull probably helps a lot. Since you don't have issues with cavitation, that means you don't need a top-loader grate. And if you don't have a top loader grate, that means you can convert your existing grate into a stomp grate, for clearing weeds. (check out the photos of mine for a general idea)


Like with many projects, it's a matter of trial and error, and doing some fine-tuning. Although I built my jetboat in 2005, I tweaked, improved, and fine tuned things for a couple of years, until I had the boat just about the way I wanted it. 

Then, when I installed the 4 stroke, I had to re-configure some things, but once it was installed, it was a done deal.


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## scubapro820 (Apr 27, 2012)

Ok so I got some new plugs for the engine not sure why the insulator on the spark plug broke but Im going to carry extras and make sure I dont have a lean condition IE crank seal etc. 

After I get it back on the water with the new plugs and spares and get it dialed in I want to weigh my boat and find out why the top speed seemed slow, the Tigershark engine wanted to over rev 7-8k at wot. I would imagine that this is controlled by the impeller and jet nozzle similarly to how wot rpm is controlled by prop pitch on an outboard any ideas? Solas has a YB-CD-16/20 concord series impeller that is steeper than the 14/18 I have now and if that is not enough i can maybe do a custom pitch? or am I jumping the gun on this too soon ?

lastly does everyone else run 92/93 octane?


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## scubapro820 (Apr 27, 2012)

kinda funny PSG your reply showed up after I posted my reply. I read your post so you can disregard my post. thank you again. you have been extremely helpful to me getting my project off the ground and in the water !!


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## PSG-1 (Apr 27, 2012)

scubapro820 said:


> kinda funny PSG your reply showed up after I posted my reply. I read your post so you can disregard my post. thank you again. you have been extremely helpful to me getting my project off the ground and in the water !!




Probably because I was editing my post, adding those couple of photos in there for a visual reference.

Sometimes when I come onto the site, though, I get an error message that the certificate can't be shown, and it won't let me log on.


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## PSG-1 (Apr 27, 2012)

scubapro820 said:


> Ok so I got some new plugs for the engine not sure why the insulator on the spark plug broke but Im going to carry extras and make sure I dont have a lean condition IE crank seal etc.



Run it at WOT and do a throttle chop (cut it off with the kill switch, key, or stop button, without backing off the throttle) Then pull each plug and compare it to the others, to get an accurate reading of what's going on with the engine. If your carbs have adjustable high speed jets, you can dial them in easily. If they're fixed jets, you'll have to buy different jet sizes and experiment. 





> After I get it back on the water with the new plugs and spares and get it dialed in I want to weigh my boat and find out why the top speed seemed slow, the Tigershark engine wanted to over rev 7-8k at wot. I would imagine that this is controlled by the impeller and jet nozzle similarly to how wot rpm is controlled by prop pitch on an outboard any ideas?



it's controlled by a rev limiter in the CDI, probably red-lines at about 7K. The TS900 has a rev limit of 7200, the 1000 had a rev limit of 6900, not sure what yours is. 




> Solas has a YB-CD-16/20 concord series impeller that is steeper than the 14/18 I have now and if that is not enough i can maybe do a custom pitch? or am I jumping the gun on this too soon ?





Again, this is one of those variables that will require some trial and error. A 16/20 would probably be a good balance of hole shot and top end.




> lastly does everyone else run 92/93 octane?




I run non-ethanol fuel most of the time, but when I do run ethanol, I stay with mid or even low grade, as the octane in the ethanol fuel comes from the ethanol. Higher octane= higher ethanol.


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## scubapro820 (Apr 28, 2012)

what piston kid did you have the most luck with? crank seals were junk and the guy slapped it together with a top end and crank when he rebuilt the engine- the ass failed to mention the hack job he did to sell the ski. bought a head already all the jugs are good amazingly. got some work ahead of me Im thinkin!!!


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## PSG-1 (Apr 28, 2012)

scubapro820 said:


> what piston kid did you have the most luck with? crank seals were junk and the guy slapped it together with a top end and crank when he rebuilt the engine- the ass failed to mention the hack job he did to sell the ski. bought a head already all the jugs are good amazingly. got some work ahead of me Im thinkin!!!




I ran the engine with everything stock, never messed with pistons and rings. If you're looking for some aftermarket parts, check out SBT, they sell just about anything you would need to rebuild an engine. Also, I have a friend here locally that tears down and parts out jet skis, he runs PWCwarehouse.net.....if you need some good condition used parts, let me know, I can see what he has.


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## scubapro820 (Apr 28, 2012)

do you have a good crank and two good jugs ? as it turns out the crank and two jugs are toasted!


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## PSG-1 (Apr 28, 2012)

scubapro820 said:


> do you have a good crank and two good jugs ? as it turns out the crank and two jugs are toasted!




Last year, I got swamped by a para-sailing boat, and it filled the boat to the point that the TS1000 engine I was running, sucked water, and killed the center piston and cylinder. The other 2 were in good shape, though. When I got my MR-1 HO engine, I traded what was left of that engine, plus a lot of parts that I had from the TS900 engine originally in my boat....in exchange for the 500 dollar fuel pump needed to run the HO engine. 

While I don't have those cylinders, my buddy Dan at PWC warehouse/SBB Customs has them, and I'm sure they can be had at a good price. I'm actually doing some welding repair on an aluminum jet ski trailer for him today. 

If you want, when I call to tell him the trailer's done, I can ask about those cylinders (he'll probably wonder WTH I could possibly want them for LOL )

As far as the crankshaft....you don't want the old one from my TS1000 engine, as the center piston rod pretty much bit the dust, along with the crankcase, when the engine got hydro-locked at 6 grand, the needle bearings are history. 

The problem is, you can't just replace a piston rod, because they don't use half-collars (that would make too much freakin' sense, wouldn't it?) so, they actually have to cut the shaft at the journals, install a new piston rod, then weld it back together, and do so with everything correctly balanced and squared....I wouldn't even dream of trying that job, that's pretty much for CNC equipment.

Get in touch with SBT and see about getting a remanufactured crankshaft. You may have to send yours as a core....I'm pretty sure of it.

But as far as those cylinders, like I said, despite the middle cylinder being completely blown and FUBAR, the other 2 were in good clean condition. Let me know if you're interested.


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## scubapro820 (Apr 28, 2012)

I will let u know later tonight for sure on the jugs I'm bidding on a complete engine


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## scubapro820 (Apr 29, 2012)

Well I won the eBay engine its complete so ill have plenty of spare parts ordered a complete rebuild kit in advance too total 800 shipped :x


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## PSG-1 (Apr 30, 2012)

Sorry to hear about the problems, and the fact that it's already costing you more money....I know the feeling, been there and done it, with the same engine, basically.  

I didn't want to say anything negative about TS engines to discourage you. I know you're an Arctic Cat mechanic.....but, I see the same situation already occurring with you that happened with me, and I wouldn't wish that headache on anyone. I just hope your issue isn't recurring, like mine was. 

I went through *4* TS 900 engines (having it re-built every time it failed) then I went through *2* rebuilds on the TS 1000 engine, before I'd had enough, and decided to go with something totally different. Hey, after a half-dozen times, enough was enough for me. My boat was well-built, but the engine was a POS, bottom line.

If it were me, I'd do the re-build this time, but if it takes another dump on your head, you really might want to consider a different engine. 

Arctic Cat might make great snowmobiles and 4 wheelers, I can't say one way or the other, because I don't have any experience with those.....but from my experience with their jet ski engines, I'd say they didn't do so great in that department, which is why they don't make TS jet skis anymore.



When I did the switch from the TS to the Yamaha engine, I dreaded having to cut the mount rails loose and having to do everything all over again, which is one of the reasons I didn't do it much sooner. But the last time that TS engine failed, was the last time it was going to do it to me (granted, it had some help from a scruffy little worm on the 'Eagle One' para-sailing boat, when a 3 foot wake broke over my bow and nearly sank me) 

Although it was an involved process, almost like having to re-build the boat over again, I do not regret for one second, going to the Yamaha 4 stroke. More quiet, more powerful, more fuel efficient, and more reliable. What's not to like about that? With the 4 stroke, I've taken my jetboat to places I would NEVER have dreamed of taking it with the TS engine, due to reliability issues.

Not trying to discourage you or pee on your parade, but it's something to think about if the TS engine gives you any more problems.


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## scubapro820 (Apr 30, 2012)

I neglected to inspect the engine first it wouldn't even be an issue had I smoked it with the evap machine first ! A lesson hard learned I suppose. If it happens again I will switch to a Yamaha lol


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## scubapro820 (May 10, 2012)

new engine showed up it is wow clean oem pistons good crank just finishing the re seal for insurance purposes and I have a couple questions, it has v force reeds and ocean pro flame arrestors, I have 135 jets in the carbs but it is an oe size 105 120 135 are the oe options, i do not know if this is jetted fat enough anyone ever run these aftermarket parts and know about what jet size is in the ballpark for this engine?


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## PSG-1 (May 10, 2012)

scubapro820 said:


> new engine showed up it is wow clean oem pistons good crank just finishing the re seal for insurance purposes and I have a couple questions, it has v force reeds and ocean pro flame arrestors, I have 135 jets in the carbs but it is an oe size 105 120 135 are the oe options, i do not know if this is jetted fat enough anyone ever run these aftermarket parts and know about what jet size is in the ballpark for this engine?




The jetting should be about 105 for the MAG side carb, 135 for the center, (as it runs hottest).....and then 120 for the PTO side carb. This is what I ran in my engine, and I used Pro-K flame arrestors and carbon fiber reeds.



Yes, I had a lot of previous issues with the center piston having holes blown in it, going through several re-builds. The main problem that was causing this issue was the fact that I was letting other 'mechanics' work on my carbs, trusting that they were doing it correctly.

Once I decided to add carburetors to my list of things I'm able to work on....my detonation issues disappeared. The deto. issue was likely caused by the previous jackass mechanic who had a 155 in the mag, a 105 in the center, and a 135 at the PTO carb. No wonder it was blowing pistons! 

Once I ran with the 105, 135, 120 setup, I had no more problems.

The final time the engine died was not because of detonation, but because a 31 foot para-sailing boat threw a 3 foot wake that nearly sank my boat, the engine ingested water, and had catastrophic failure.

So, I would run with what you have, again, do a 'throttle chop' at WOT, then pull the plugs and inspect them, to dial in the jetting. Perhaps go ahead and adjust the high speed screw out by 1/4 turn, so you know it's rich enough, then fine tune it.

Also, make sure that the oil injection pump is correctly synchronized, or you'll have a lean condition.

With the throttle at idle, the hash mark on the housing should line up with the line of the idle setting on the pump actuator arm. At the WOT setting, the hash mark should line up with the high speed mark on the actuator arm. If not, you'll need to adjust the jam nuts of the cable housing where it fits the bracket of the oil pump.

I got rid of most of my Tigershark parts, but I think I may have a few carb jets in the drawer of the toolbox, not sure what sizes they are, but I know there's a few high speed jets, and a few pilot jets.


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## scubapro820 (May 10, 2012)

hey that helps a lot I never invested in a manual I would have been confused I think it will be fat enough at 135 145 115 with 77.5 idle jets


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## PSG-1 (May 10, 2012)

I did have a manual, but, like an idiot, when I put the 4 stroke in my boat, I figured I wouldn't need a tigershark manual anymore, and threw it away. #-o If I still had it, I'd donate it to you.

But.... I'm quite familiar with the TS900 and TS1000 engines, everything except for rebuilding it, so, any questions you have, I might be able to help you out.

I do remember that the low speed jets were 78.5, for all 3 carbs, if that helps.


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## scubapro820 (May 10, 2012)

Yea mine are all 77.5


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## PSG-1 (May 10, 2012)

Also, check the internal filter on each carb, make sure they're clean.

If you get into dealing with pop-off pressure calibration, the correct pop-off pressure is about 21 PSI if you're running open stacks.

I will dig through my toolbox and see what parts I have left over for the Tigershark. They're yours if you need 'em. I'll let you know what I find.


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## scubapro820 (May 10, 2012)

I can't tell you how much I appreciate all your help. I go to so called pwc mechanics and they are no help . Most of the techs I work with don't know what a plug chop is lol .


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## PSG-1 (May 10, 2012)

scubapro820 said:


> I can't tell you how much I appreciate all your help. I go to so called pwc mechanics and they are no help . Most of the techs I work with don't know what a plug chop is lol .



Most people don't understand that a plug chop is about the only way to get a true reading of what's really going on with the high speed jetting. And a lot of PWC mechanics aren't going to go out of their way to help, they want you to bring it to them, and wait 3 months for them to fix it, and pay top dollar for it.

As for the extra parts, all I had was an 85 jet, a fuel filter, and the little black bellows piece that goes on the fitting on the back of the magneto housing.

I reckon when I got rid of the tigershark and all the parts, I got rid of ALL the parts. Could have sworn I had more jets and other small TS parts in the toolbox. (Guess it's time to organize it some, since I can't remember what's in the dang thing LOL) 

Wish I had more parts, or the manual. But I can still offer my knowledge about that engine.

As for the plugs, the manual calls for a NGK BR9ES. You can also run BR9EYA plugs, but I always ran what the manual called for. Hope this helps.


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## scubapro820 (May 16, 2012)

Success ! 34mph 4 ppl fuel and beer . 1100lbs gross


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## PSG-1 (May 16, 2012)

scubapro820 said:


> Success ! 34mph 4 ppl fuel and beer . 1100lbs gross





=D>  8) Outstanding! Glad to see you got 'er running.


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## River Rider (May 17, 2012)

Man looks to be running great. Put up some more pictures of the complete rig. I would llike to see the finished product.


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## scubapro820 (May 17, 2012)

I will take more and better pics soon but I have these now.


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## River Rider (May 17, 2012)

Awesome. Bet it gets cozy.


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## PSG-1 (May 17, 2012)

Wow, it really looks good cleaned up and painted! I bet that cabin is warm during the winter, too.


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## scubapro820 (May 18, 2012)

It is very cozy and noisy, so im still working on reducing engine speed, Tthe tigerhark engine red line is like 7000 and i think 65-6700 is ideal for cruise. I was thinking i wanted the concord 16/21 pitch solas but its back ordered. kinda troubling bc 35mph 6500 rpm 1/2 -2/3 throttle fully loaded this leaves me to believe there is much to be had for power so now i have to find a way to get my power to the water!


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## PSG-1 (May 18, 2012)

scubapro820 said:


> It is very cozy and noisy, so im still working on reducing engine speed,



I think you meant to say engine 'noise' not speed....LOL. To reduce the noise levels, you definitely need a cowling, and you should line it with some egg crate foam, this will cut down on the sound a lot.






> Tthe tigerhark engine red line is like 7000 and i think 65-6700 is ideal for cruise.




For the TS900, I think redline is about 7200, for the 1000 it's about 6900 RPM, if I remember correctly. On my boat, I have been running a Concord 13/19 swirl impeller, (YD-CD-13/19) and when I had the TS1000 engine, I ran most of the time at about 5500-6000 RPM for cruising speed. With the high output, I tend to run about 7000-8000 for cruising speed (why the higher RPM? we'll get to that in a minute).




> I was thinking i wanted the concord 16/21 pitch solas but its back ordered. kinda troubling bc 35mph 6500 rpm 1/2 -2/3 throttle fully loaded this leaves me to believe there is much to be had for power so now i have to find a way to get my power to the water!





Keep me posted on that 16/21 pitch...I've been considering having my prop re-pitched to that spec., because, I have the same issue going on with my boat (top speed). The XL1200 pump I'm using is a 155mm pump. I forget what size the XL800 is, I'm thinking it's 155mm, but it may be a 144mm. If it is a 155mm, like my pump, then the performance of our two pumps should be similar.

My TS1000 engine had a redline of about 6900 RPM, and the boat ran about 42 MPH. When I switched to the High Output, I was expecting to see a dramatic increase in top end, but was surprised to see that the top speed was about the same as before, maybe about 3-4 MPH faster. Granted, the 4 stroke is more reliable, but I was perplexed by the issue of top speed. After all... the engine turns 10,000 RPM at WOT, so, I should be haulin' ass, right?

Well, if the PROP was turning 10 grand, I would be flying, no doubt about it. BUT, the MR-1 engine uses a 1.47:1 reduction gear, and this steps impeller speed down from 10K, to about 6,800 RPM, actually a slower prop speed than the TS1000!

Now, I know if you try to over-prop an engine, it will put too much load on it. But with a 4 cylinder 4 stroke engine, I believe there is enough torque to be able to turn a higher pitch prop, with no ill effects. The boat has more than enough hole shot, so, I'm thinking of re-pitching the prop from a 13/19 to a 16/21, perhaps even higher, I need to talk to a tech at impros and see if they have any ideas. In the meantime, though, if you get a chance to run with the 16/21, let me know how it works out.


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## scubapro820 (May 24, 2012)

Well I have my impeller coming soon 16/21 swirl skat trak. I took the boat out Sunday and there were 35 mph winds heavy chop I mean heavy 12" or so the boat took a beating. I.found several things I need.to change fuel filter location for better servicability and several new fuel lines and a service hatch. I got a random miss at opperating speeds seems to be a flat.out miss no knock or ping going to check the reeds over however anyway. The pistons and plugs are beautiful . I was however wondering about the fuel system design I have the mikuni carbs and I wanted a.fuel pump rebuild kit, but that is not listed or shown on parts diagrams its a mikuni 3 out pulse pump to the carbs its located on the engine plate near the starter is this an oe config?


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## PSG-1 (May 26, 2012)

Yes, that's an OE design, having the fuel pump mounted to the engine plate.

Your fuel pump should be a pentagonal-shaped pump, with 1 inlet, 3 outlets, and a pulser line. 

Try this part number: * DF 62-702* You might see a picture of a fuel pump that only has two outlets instead of 3, but they both use the same diaphragms and check valves. I've rebuilt a few of these.

As far as the high speed miss.....make sure that you have the CDI mounted in a manner that leaves some slack for the wires. I had this problem with my boat, had the CDI mounted a little too far back, and it had the rear plug wire pulled tight, where it would run like crap at idle, then it would occasionally straighten out at high speed, then go back to running like a POS at idle. Took me forever to figure out the obvious, the connection of spark plug wire to the boot was being interrupted from engine vibration, etc. I moved the CDI up a few inches closer to the engine, and that problem went away.


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## scubapro820 (May 26, 2012)

I'll check on that the spark plug wires, in the meantime Im thinking about getting a water temp guage for the engine temp a pressure guage for the pump nozzel and water supply inlet a vacuum guage for the intake grate side and possibly a preheated wideband o2 system . I was looking at some of the knock indicator setups as well I could connect one per cylinder but I have not found an inexpensive system for that


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## PSG-1 (May 26, 2012)

scubapro820 said:


> I'll check on that the spark plug wires, in the meantime Im thinking about getting a water temp guage for the engine temp a pressure guage for the pump nozzel and water supply inlet a vacuum guage for the intake grate side and possibly a preheated wideband o2 system . I was looking at some of the knock indicator setups as well I could connect one per cylinder but I have not found an inexpensive system for that



As far as the temp guage, I tried that with my boat, had it hooked into a T fitting on the discharge side of the cooling line, it wouldn't even register a reading. Then I made a threaded fitting out of aluminum, and welded it to the top rear end of the head pipe, the part right before the exhaust hose hooks up. This method worked pretty good. 

HOWEVER, a temp guage will only show a problem AFTER you begin to run hot, which is really not the best method, IMHO. Instead of the temp guage, just go with a pressure guage, it's much better.

The pressure guage is better, because, THE VERY SECOND THAT WATER STOPS FLOWING TO THE ENGINE, the pressure guage says "hey, there's a problem, no water flow" As opposed to the temp guage, which is only going to start rising after the engine begins to overheat....ooops, that's a cooked head gasket, or in the case of the Tigershark engines, a cooked set of cylinder head O-rings, either way, a PITA. Also, with the pressure guage, you're not having to constantly watch the indicator streams coming from the cooling system, you just glance down at the guage for an instant analysis of the cooling system's condition.


For the water pressure guage, get one of those Teleflex outboard motor water pressure guages, they are 2" in diameter. Put a T fitting on the cooling line going to the engine. if you are using a water strainer, put the T on the _engine side_ of the strainer, not on the pump side. If you put it on the pump side of the strainer, when the strainer clogs, it will not show a loss of water pressure. Run the pitot tube from the fitting on the T, to the water pressure guage at the console. When you are running, it probably won't read any PSI at idle. At about 3 or 4 grand, you should have about 5 PSI, and at around 6 grand, you should be at 10 PSI or a little more.

A vacuum gauge probably isn't necessary, unless you want one just for giggles. As far as the other stuff, kinda like the vacuum gauge, it's a matter of personal preference.

But if you could only put one guage in your boat, I would definitely advise you to install a water pressure guage.... and if you don't already have an inline water strainer, install one of these, too, it will save your engine. Jabsco makes an inline strainer with 1/2" barb fittings, a removable clear plastic cap so you can easily see any trash in there, and it has a removable screen.

I consider the pressure guage/water strainer an 'engine saver'...and a vital combination of equipment. The one time I ran my jetboat hard aground out here in the inlet, I crossed a sandbar, trying to give some fishermen a wide berth.... and the boat actually stuck on the sandbar for just a second, with me slamming into the console pretty good. I saw the pressure guage instantly drop to 0, and when I saw that, I immediately shut 'er down. Sure enough, when I opened the cap, the strainer was jammed full of a mud/sand mixture. I turned the engine over, and hit the throttle quickly a few times, until water blasted the sand out of the strainer, then I shut the engine back off, finished cleaning out the strainer, put the cap back on, and continued on my merry way.

Now, without those 2 items, this is the likely scenario: I would have crossed the bar, with my attention focused on getting across the bar, not watching indicator streams. If the engine had a temp guage, it would have gone to overheat, and the CDI would have kicked into the fail-safe mode when it overheated. Maybe it would be OK, but then again, we're talking about engines with aluminum blocks, overheat one of these, and it's likely to warp something, causing catastrophic damage further down the road. Also, without the strainer, the cooling lines and water jackets of the engine would have been plugged full of sand and mud. How do you get that sand out without a reverse-flow flush (garden hose to the fitting?) Pretty much impossible.

Again, a strainer and a pressure guage are the two things you should add to your boat. True, you might not be running in mud and sand like I do, but if you're operating on a river, in the spring and fall, you're going to encounter leaves and other debris on the surface, at some point, you will have an issue with that trying to clog the cooling system.


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## scubapro820 (May 29, 2012)

I do have the inline filter on my boat, it came with the tigershark I bought to start the boat project. Im going to install a pressure gauge soon as well as some of the things I previously listed. Got my skat trak swirl 16 21 installed today. I modified my nozzel by removing the shunt that was the ventri style syphon bilge I also cleaned and polished the hull holy smokes there was a lot of sheisse to remove from the 50+ years the hull has been around. I hope to gain some speed off the modifications and hull polishing. I have some b4 and after pics of the hulls appearance


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## PSG-1 (May 30, 2012)

scubapro820 said:


> I do have the inline filter on my boat, it came with the tigershark I bought to start the boat project.



I figured it might have a strainer. Of all the complaints I may have about Tigershark jet skis, that's one thing I will say they put some thought into, and got right....putting a water strainer on the cooling line to the engine. Other manufacturers do not do this. 




> Im going to install a pressure gauge soon as well as some of the things I previously listed.



You won;t regret it. After seeing how effective the pressure guage worked on my jetboat, I installed the exact same guage on my 50 HP Merc. Man, that beats having to look back at the indicator stream off the engine. Just glance at the guage, and you immediately know what's going on with the cooling system.






> Got my skat trak swirl 16 21 installed today. I modified my nozzel by removing the shunt that was the ventri style syphon bilge




I'm definitely interested to know how that 16/21 impeller performs, as that's the pitch I was thinking about using on my boat. As for the siphon-fed bilge, I don't think that tube in the nozzle costs you any speed. If anything, that little bit of restriction in the nozzle might give a boost on the top end. Restrictions tend to affect the hole shot, but actually improve top end. 

They actually make an aftermarket spring-loaded thrust cone that gives more hole shot by being a shorter cone at low speed, but at high speed, it extends out a little bit, restricting the thrust nozzle, which is supposed to give more top end. I forget what it's called, or who makes it, but I did try one on my boat a long time ago...only problem was, the cone was made for a 5 degree nozzle, and I was running a 0 degree, so, I couldn't use it. Now, with a 5 degree, I could probably try again, and see what happens.

But as far as the siphon fed bilge, I left it on my boat, and bought a Yamaha factory bilge strainer and siphon break check valve, and hooked it up. Of course, being where I operate, with waves in the inlet, and 3-4 foot waves from para-sailing boats that can swamp a johnboat, I need all the bilge pumps I can get (my boat has 4 pumps, with the ability to pump almost 3,000 GPH combined.)






> I also cleaned and polished the hull holy smokes there was a lot of sheisse to remove from the 50+ years the hull has been around. I hope to gain some speed off the modifications and hull polishing. I have some b4 and after pics of the hulls appearance




Nice and shiny! You should get at least a 1-2 MPH gain from polishing the hull. Looking at the pics of the exterior, I'd never guess the boat was that old.


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## scubapro820 (Jun 1, 2012)

Will the polished hull help :lol:


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## crazymanme2 (Jun 1, 2012)

When I raced boats we would sand the bottom perfectly flat & put couple coats of clear over that, than sand with I believe 400 wet.It was thought that the grooves hold water which is the slipperiest,water against water. :idea:


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## PSG-1 (Jun 1, 2012)

scubapro820 said:


> Will the polished hull help :lol:




LMAO. Dang, I thought the other photos were the after photos. Looks REALLY good!


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## scubapro820 (Jun 3, 2012)

Well I took it out today after some mods I added insulation to the cover and made an exhaust tip muffler using some plumming gear and a pool noodle works great does 40 and hole shot is freaky fast but I'm 800 rpm over running 7300


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## PSG-1 (Jun 3, 2012)

scubapro820 said:


> Well I took it out today after some mods I added insulation to the cover and made an exhaust tip muffler using some plumming gear and a pool noodle works great does 40 and hole shot is freaky fast but I'm 800 rpm over running 7300




Outstanding! So, changing pitch got a 6 MPH gain, that's good to know. I think I know what pitch I'll do with for mine now. As far as the RPM, the rev limiter should handle it, you're probably at the maximum point, though. 

I like the black and yellow strip on the transom, it looks cool. If you want to tone down the sound signature some more, add a platform. You'll be amazed how much difference it will make.


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## scubapro820 (Jun 3, 2012)

I had my friend tale it out it has 16" of.baffles its pretty darn quiet the remaining sound is what comes from the engine compartment its quiet enough to hear others talking at a slightly elevated level ear plugs no longer req. I'm thinking I can make a headliner like sound absorber the rest is the hull / cabbin resonating . I think I can also squeeze 2-3 mph more with some pump mods . But going that ffast it begins to geta bit squirly now I have to consider high speed stability .


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## PSG-1 (Jun 3, 2012)

Faster, and quieter. Definitely 2 welcome things on any boat! =D> 

As far as it being squirelly, it's because of the V hull, most likely at higher speed the wind resistance is pushing the bow down, which puts more of the V in the water.


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## scubapro820 (Jun 3, 2012)

I'll have to investigate it but I actually think or it feels like so little of the boat is in the water / high plane probably from the aerodynamics of my cabin that it is almost lifting out of the water


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## nsnutter (Jun 4, 2012)

Love this project - thing is freakin amazing! What part of MN are you in? I'm in Chaska (SW Metro).

I was curious, because I didn't see it listed before, but wheat knd of boat is that? It looks similar to my Sea King ...


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## scubapro820 (Jun 4, 2012)

I'm from oakdale I run pool 2 on the Mississippi out of.lions levee stpaul park to Hastings its a blue star boat 50s or 60s not too sure but it was basically a row boat


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## nsnutter (Jun 4, 2012)

Sweet! I usually fish the MN river from the confluence down to Mankato ... but I hit up P2 from time to time from the so. ST. Paul launch. Nice flat btw! My fish of choice


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## hotshotinn (Jun 4, 2012)

WoW that boat is something else =D> That wood be good for winter steelheadin on the rivers =D> 
How you come up with that idea and dezine?


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## scubapro820 (Jun 4, 2012)

It was inspired by the class guard patrol boat and I run the mississippi lol so I had to run fast


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