# How essential is a fish finder?



## Hooky1420 (Mar 16, 2011)

Just wondering your guys thoughts on this. Don't know if it makes a difference, but I usually fish in less than 15 feet of water, most of the times it is under 8 feet though, as I do a lot of fishing in the Everglades.

Is it worth it to spend a couple hundred $$$ on a fish finder? I know a lot of you guys have them on your boats... I've never used one before but have been considering getting one. I usually have no problem catching fish, and my method is just to fish near cover, or sight-fish when I see a nest. Most of the time I find a nice spot and anchor off, stay there for about 30 minutes and do the same down the way a bit.

I have it in the back of my mind that I need a fish finder, but I guess I'm just needing some advice to push me over the edge. What do you all think?


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## FishingBuds (Mar 16, 2011)

I have never used a high dollar one can't say much about them(gps and stuff like that) but the I use is a hummingbird 525 and I mainly use it to find structure that I don't know about, Depths etc. It has paid off IMHO. I have passed over areas that I never knew existed.


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## Brine (Mar 16, 2011)

At that depth, I'd spring for the Cuda. It's good to let you see changes in depth and will show grass vs hard bottom etc....


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## po1 (Mar 16, 2011)

A fish finder is a very handy tool to have. Just knowing the water temp and what the structure underneath is, will help when deciding on how to fish the area. Get the best you can afford. I started off with my first fish finder's transducer on the trolling motor since most of my fishing was off the bow. Down the line when I upgraded to a better fish finder I moved the older one to the transom and use it more for depth information when running the shallows. It's nice to have one with gps/maps but if this more then your budget can handle, you can start off making copies of charts and marking info on the charts(worked for me for years). As mention above a Cuda is a good entry level fish finder to start with.


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## screwballl (Mar 16, 2011)

I suggest a cheap $80-100 fishfinder mostly for watching the bottom layout and water temperature. Something basic LIKE THIS ONE if you plan to use it for fishing. Avoid the ones that have the fish icon things as they can be very misleading.


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## Ictalurus (Mar 16, 2011)

Hooky, I have the Eagle Cuda 300, it costs roughly $80. The water here in TN is very turbid, can't see more than 8-12", so the depth feature is a necessity. I also run the rivers, so depth is needed there. The Cuda 300 also has a voltometer, so you can see how the battery is doing. Temperature is also nice, although mine seems to read a few degrees warm. I've seeen your build, it's very nice, slap one on there, it would complete the package IMO.


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## Jim (Mar 16, 2011)

The value for me is knowing how deep the water is. I think they are worth it.


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## bcbouy (Mar 16, 2011)

i use mine mostly for structure,it also is good for locating shoals for chronimid fishing for trout.also for river running.ive bottomed out before i got one,but not since.


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## Hooky1420 (Mar 16, 2011)

Ictalurus said:


> I've seeen your build, it's very nice, slap one on there, it would complete the package IMO.




Aw shucks... Thanks for the compliment. A product of many hours scouring tinboats for ideas! 

In the Everglades, at least where I fish, you can see to the bottom until it gets over 10 feet deep.... Which is why I do a lot of sight fishing. Still may check out some of the cheaper fishfinders for depth and temperature mainly, structure second. Thanks for all the tips guys. greatly appreciated, as usual.


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## poolie (Mar 16, 2011)

Have fished most of my life without one. But now that I have one I can't imagine fishing without one. Like everyone else says, at the depth you fish you don't need anything expense.


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## Waterwings (Mar 16, 2011)

I have the Humminbird 525, and I use it mainly to tell me the depth. The 525 has large numbers which sure makes it easier than squinting to read small ones. Depth (fish) finders have never really helped me locate fish, and I don't have to worry about finding structure either, because where I fish is mostly a mud bottom.


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## baseball_guy_99 (Mar 16, 2011)

I use the one on my dad's Ranger for depth/water temp.

I probably wont put one on the tin because the lakes I will use it on I know by heart.


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## lovedr79 (Mar 17, 2011)

i just got my first one after fishing for years without and find it awesome. i love fidning the strusture i didnt know existed. and i have one with GPS just incase, works pretty well. it is a hummingbird 398? i think. not the color model. but i did find it to bring some dissappointment while fishing areas i thought looked good and nothing shows up on the scope.


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## Captain Ahab (Mar 18, 2011)

They are not essential at all - and 3where you fish you know what the bottom is like (muddy and weeds) and the water temp (hotter then here) 

But like what was said above, they are a handy tool. I fish some much deeper water and that is my only way to "see" thw bottom.


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## Hooky1420 (Mar 27, 2011)

Well, I thank you all for you input.

Tonight I went to Bass Pro... they were having a member's only drawing for a fish finder... And I fortunately won!!! I now am the brand new owner of a Lowrance Mark 5x Pro. If anyone has any input on this model, I would appreciate it... I can't wait to put it on the boat and try it out!!!


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## MattR (Mar 28, 2011)

Hooky1420 said:


> Well, I thinak you all for you input.
> 
> Tonight I went to Bass Pro... they were having a member's only drawing for a fish finder... And I fortunately won!!! I now am the brand new owner of a Lowerence Mark 5x Pro. if anyone has any input on this model, I would appreciate it... I can't wait to put it on the boat and try it out!!!


 Congrats on winning. =D> 

Matt


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## jasper60103 (Apr 5, 2011)

Ictalurus said:


> Hooky, I have the Eagle Cuda 300, it costs roughly $80. The water here in TN is very turbid, can't see more than 8-12", so the depth feature is a necessity. I also run the rivers, so depth is needed there. The Cuda 300 also has a voltometer, so you can see how the battery is doing. Temperature is also nice, although mine seems to read a few degrees warm. I've seeen your build, it's very nice, slap one on there, it would complete the package IMO.



I just bought a Eagle Cuda 300 off ebay. This is my first fish finder. Hopefully, get the boat out of storage in about a month and install.
FYI. Here's a video of one in operation.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4_z6giwIT6c


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## jasper60103 (Oct 7, 2011)

Well, I finally got around to putting it on about month ago. I used a piece of composite decking for my transducer mounting board. The lake test went great.


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## overboard (Oct 8, 2011)

I use a fishfinder a little different than most of the posts on here. trolling shallow at night,with stickbaits. 5' with transducer on shore side,7' going opposite direction. if I go either deeper or shallower I just adjust to maintain specified depth. less than 3' usually will get lures hung up, deeper than 10', usually no fish. handy tool for the type of fishing I generally do. also used on a river,shows dropoffs and small holes that you might not know were there.


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## rusty.hook (Nov 3, 2011)

jasper60103 said:


> Well, I finally got around to putting it on about month ago. I used a piece of composite decking for my transducer mounting board. The lake test went great.
> 
> I know you put some clear RTV cement or some 5200 behind the mounting board for sealing purposes.


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## LonLB (Nov 3, 2011)

overboard said:


> I use a fishfinder a little different than most of the posts on here. trolling shallow at night,with stickbaits. 5' with transducer on shore side,7' going opposite direction. if I go either deeper or shallower I just adjust to maintain specified depth. less than 3' usually will get lures hung up, deeper than 10', usually no fish. handy tool for the type of fishing I generally do. also used on a river,shows dropoffs and small holes that you might not know were there.




So you are setting upper and lower limits, or depth range zoom??


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## JBooth (Nov 3, 2011)

It's not essential but defiantly helps especially if you are fishing in an area for the first time. I would try to find one lightly used for cheap. It's worth the investment if you can find one for cheap.


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## GreatWhite (Nov 4, 2011)

Love mine....a Humminbird Pirahnamax170....I know the inlets and such on my lake by heart, but have found alot of structure and vegetation well offshore, I would never have known about....

And always fun & 'gee whiz' to see depth and surface temps...


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## overboard (Nov 4, 2011)

LonLB said:


> overboard said:
> 
> 
> > I use a fishfinder a little different than most of the posts on here. trolling shallow at night,with stickbaits. 5' with transducer on shore side,7' going opposite direction. if I go either deeper or shallower I just adjust to maintain specified depth. less than 3' usually will get lures hung up, deeper than 10', usually no fish. handy tool for the type of fishing I generally do. also used on a river,shows dropoffs and small holes that you might not know were there.
> ...


not really. just using it in normal mode, and following shallow contures by watching depth. troll mostly jointed rebels for walleyes.


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## Bhockins (Nov 5, 2011)

The Mark 5 is a great unit for what you describe. I had one and eventually got a higher Lowrance with all the bells and whistles. You'll be able to learn everything you'd want about fish finders from it. Great for seeing structure and checking depth. 

For me, the electronics just adds to the enjoyment. Interesting to check it each time you run across a "hot spot" and see what kinds of patterns emerge.


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## PSG-1 (Nov 5, 2011)

It's nice to know the water depth or temperature, and to be able to see structure, but as far as being able to catch more fish with a fishfinder, not sure what to say. I've fished for many years without one, and caught a lot of fish without one, and I've caught fish with a fishfinder, so I cannot definitively say whether or not it makes a lot of difference.


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## CodyPomeroy (Nov 8, 2011)

I do most of my fishing in medium size river, and the finder is very usefull. I use it to help me find the channel, but also find holes, drop-offs, points, etc... It also helps me gauge the fluctuations, so I know where the fish might be. Mine is older, and doesn't have temp (which I wish it did). I did get it for free, so I am not complaining.


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## BaitCaster (Nov 9, 2011)

Hooky1420 said:


> ...I usually fish in less than 15 feet of water, most of the times it is under 8 feet though, as I do a lot of fishing in the Everglades.



If you had a fish finder you might find some productive deeper water to fish. That's what happened to me.


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## Captain Ahab (Nov 9, 2011)

BaitCaster said:


> Hooky1420 said:
> 
> 
> > ...I usually fish in less than 15 feet of water, most of the times it is under 8 feet though, as I do a lot of fishing in the Everglades.
> ...




Maybe not - he is fishing swamps that might only get 15-20 feet deep if there is lots of rain

I fish a lake here that is shallow and weed choked and the FF is useless there. On everything else it is more important then hooks to catching fish


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## aeviaanah (Nov 10, 2011)

Where is a good place to mount a fish finder unit? Where is your fish finder mounted?


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## Bhockins (Nov 10, 2011)

I have mine on 6' cable so I can move it from in front of the drivers seat to the front of the boat by the trolling motor. I have plastic mounts in both places so I can just snap it out of one and into the other. Works great!


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## jgp12000 (Nov 11, 2011)

I got the cheapest one I could find, mainly for depth monitoring. I've seen fish all over the finder and they wouldn't bite.It don't put them in the boat but atleast you know your not fishing in the wrong spot.


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## BaitCaster (Nov 11, 2011)

aeviaanah said:


> Where is a good place to mount a fish finder unit? Where is your fish finder mounted?



I bought a RAM mount (pricey for what it is, but it works great and is very well built) for mine and attached it to the side of my boat with rivets and marine adhesive.


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## CodyPomeroy (Nov 11, 2011)

aeviaanah said:


> Where is a good place to mount a fish finder unit? Where is your fish finder mounted?


I mounted mine where the oars would go.


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## jasper60103 (Nov 15, 2011)

rusty.hook said:


> jasper60103 said:
> 
> 
> > Well, I finally got around to putting it on about month ago. I used a piece of composite decking for my transducer mounting board. The lake test went great.
> ...



Yep, I used 5200.


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## LunaticFringeInc (Dec 13, 2011)

> Is it worth it to spend a couple hundred $$$ on a fish finder?



Is it neccessary? No. 

Is it worth it? Yeah I think so.

Allow me to explain...

First off, when your out fishing it really helps to confirm what you thought and that there really are some fish where your tossing your bait. I really like to know there are fish there today and more importantly what depth they are holding at per chance I can get a bait down to them and see if they are hungry today.

Second, while you mentioned you know the water pretty well and you fish the structure you can see and do pretty well, most other folks fish the same exact spots. The few fish on that easy to find and see structure have seen more baits tossed at them than you can find at a Bass Pro store! I generally fish from a kayak and I cant buzz around back and forth all day all over the lake like I am a pachinco ball. That means I have to fish smarter. I am notorious for fishing in the wake of 40K plus Bass Battle Wagons. They have already tossed baits to the obvious structure and came up empty handed or with yet another dink. However often times a short distance away from the obvious cover is the not so obvious stumps just below the surface. I have cast these and ripped some pretty nice 4-8 pounders out of there right after a team of bass fisherman just "worked" that area over only to see them shaking their heads and mumbling under their breath in disgust, realizing they missed out on a good fish. I wouldn't have found or known about these hidden submerged structures unless the lake level dropped considerably or if I hadn't have had a fish finder to locate them with.

Another case in point...I have located a number of Crappie spots that will yield slabs about 10 months out of the year by the stringer load. They are all in 14-18ft of water out in the open water with no hint of structure to be found above the surface...unless you got a fish finder its doubtful you'd have know they were there! Better yet is the fact that I rarely have another boat pull up and anchor in the area and give me competition, so I pretty much have them all to myself.

Do you need an expensive set up or side imaging? Its nice to have but no.

I have a couple of Cuda 242's that I bought for well under half price on clearance when they were normally retailing for about 90 fun dollars. Nothing fancy about them, not a lot of whistles and bells, but they work just fine for locating submerged structure and seeing if there is anything on them. Yeah a higher quality unit or side imaging will give you a more accurate picture of exactly whats below but generally just having the ability to know there is structure below is plenty good enough to get you into fish.


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## bcbouy (Dec 14, 2011)

a fishfinder that shows the thermocline is worth every penny.


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## shawnfish (Dec 22, 2011)

id say it depends on how much experience, how often and how serious you fish, for a guy who fishes just to get out and relax and catch a few fish then i would say get a cheap one for contour and depth. if you eat, sleep and think about fishing every second of your life like i do then you already know wich kind to get.....the kind you can only slightly not afford. if you have a 1000-2000$ sonar and dont know how to use it its senseless to have it and a waste of money. ive got a HB 1197 on the bow and a 798 on the back. my buddys tell me its over kill but i catch a lot more than when i had just one or two cheaper units. i also have an auqa veiw that ive learned so much from watching them on camera and my DI or SI as to what im actually seeing on the screen as to what kind of mood they are in. its been priceless to me. oh one more thing, the cheaper units may be showing fish on the screen but dont rely on them too much even with the fish symbols turned off. the crystals(or crystal) in their transducers are not very good quality and the head units do not have that much power, ive used my camera in a buddys boat where he was marking fish all over the place and there was nothing there. and seen lots of fish on camera when he was not marking them....

p.s. yes i know my electronics are worth more than my boat, i love the boat i have and dont want a bigger or better one. everybody asks me that all the time.......just in case you were wondering.


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## azekologi (Dec 22, 2011)

Ok, I've been thinking about FFs ever since this Wired2fish Lowrance contest started, perhaps a few times before that.

Personally, I've never used one, never had one, or really ever thought that one would be worth the money. Lately I've been evaluating some of my fishing techniques and was wondering if one would make for more productive outings.

The three closest lakes that I fish have average depths of 60, 40, and 25 feet. The "far" lake that I fish has an average depth of 40 feet. The closer lakes are in the NF, managed by Game and Fish, the "far" lake is on the Indian Reservation, managed by the Indians.

Every time I go to the Indian lake, we always have a productive trip, at the closer lakes, it's hit and miss.

My buddies and I are "one species" fisherman, angling for trout. Our usual MO is to rig up cowbells or ford fenders on 4-6lb bulk line, then tie a 18-24" flurocarbon leader using a #12 or #10 baitholder hook w/ a 2-4" night crawler hanging off the end. Toss 'em in, let 'em out 100-300ft, troll the lake in an "S" pattern, and wait for hits periodically checking the line for leader tangles, freshness of bait, etc.

I can usually run 2-3 trolling rigs off my tin, so we always have at least 1-2 lines in the water.

Over the years I've p/u'd a few different bells/fenders giving me a nice assortment of different colored spoons (gold, silver, painted) with different reflectors (gold, silver, red, nothing), sometimes with different textures (hammered vs. smooth), in different sizes (baby bells vs. giant bells). I try to mix it up when I'm out there using the gold/silver for clearer water conditions, and the painted (orange, rainbow, etc.) for murkier conditions. As I said above, I can't go wrong at the Indian lake, but the other lakes it's so-so no matter when I go in the season (beginning, middle, or end).

This last year I've spiced it up a little bit based on some info I've got from local anglers. I've used spoons and rooster tails off the leader w/ the bells, both with and without night crawlers. Generally speaking, the lone hook is better than an additional lure.

I've been wanting to get a good bait-caster reel and delve into the 'bass addiction', so I've been experimenting with some top-water stuff for trout to see how it would go and have had pretty good success. The Rebel cricket hoppers (floater/diver per the package) seem to attract the trout, and I have those in a few crickets and crawdads in 'hot' colors. I've even weighted them down with shot sending them to deeper depths and trolling with them at ultra low speeds...works, but not that much data if it was a fluke or not.

For the most part, I use the Rebel stuff when we're trolling the bells and we come near shore, an alcove, or some visible structure (stumps, downed trees, etc.) then cast in the desired area, reel in, recast, etc.

*Anyway, if I was to indulge in a FF...how would this help me for how I fish now?*

*If my trolling lure/bait is 100-300ft off my stern, buy the time I see the fish on the finder, they could be gone by the time my lure even gets to them. Right?*

*Other than speed, how can I use the FF to get at the right depth, if my lure/bat is that far back?*

There's a good possibility that I'm doing something wrong, but what I have been doing makes sense (to me) and has worked for me and my buddies.


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## Captain Ahab (Dec 22, 2011)

OK - I do not troll for trout in FW but trolling is trolling

I do troll for Tuna, Mariin and related pelegic species and occasionally for stripers. 

So, to answer your questions:


_*If my trolling lure/bait is 100-300ft off my stern, buy the time I see the fish on the finder, they could be gone by the time my lure even gets to them. Right?*
_

If you were to locate fish you could then concentrate on that area - yeah they might not be in the exact same spot (fish have tails) but they are at least in the area.

Further, the FF will tell you what depth and even what forage (bait) is present. Using my experiences as an example, if we see on the FF masses of sand eels coming off the bottom we might come off the troll to toss diamond jigs and such. If we see bunker - we might change colors and profiles to match the bait.

If we see fish 20 feet down we stay with shallow running lures - 40 feet down and we might drop in a trolling plane or add drails 

Further, and this is the big advantage of having a good FF, you will see the thermocline, depth changes and structure. All three things can really improve your catch rate. 

The thermocline is always key in trolling - the fish use that as a "wall" trapping bait on one side or the other. Look for distinct and establish thermocline when trolling and you will find fish.

Depth changes are also essential - the upwelling of cooler bottom water forced by sudden depth changes is a prime area for predators to look for prey - you get the micro organisms pushed up (or down) and the small fish are there to feed - followed by the big fish, and on and on.

Structure is the next element. You find submerged trees, rock piles, etc and they will hold fish. You can then troll in that area until you figure out the correct direction and speed. You want your lures down and around that structure and you want to fish them in the "correct" direction. Some days the fish will only hit a lure trolled in one direction.
_*
Other than speed, how can I use the FF to get at the right depth, if my lure/bat is that far back?*_ 

There are a few ways. 1st, if you know the depth you can keep letting line (while at your trolling speed) out until it bumps the bottom - then reel in a few cranks and you will be just above that depth. Reel in more to go shallow and let out line to go deep. Once you know the depth a particular rig runs at with the amount of line make a note and you can be sure of where your lure is running. Adjust speed and weight to compensate.


2nd you can use the stop and drop method - again knowing the depth adjust your speed until the lure bumps bottom and then just adjust your seep until it stops. Same as above, make a note.

If using downriggers - your FF will show the depth of the cannonball at rest (it rises when trolled of course)

Finally - get a unit that tells you water temps = temp breaks can equal fish.

Hope this helps


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## azekologi (Dec 22, 2011)

Ahab - 

A lot of good info, I thank you for that. If I don't win the awesome Lowrance contest (which I'm sure is a stretch), I'll start doing some comparison shopping for lower end models that have the features that you mentioned. 

I guess I'm willing to buy another gadget, say spending $100 +/-, but I know that I won't be buying a $300+ unit any time soon. :wink:


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## Captain Ahab (Dec 22, 2011)

Get a used model then with better pixels and such

The low end units will not show the thermocline and will not really read well while trolling

I can look on the SW sites for you - the bottom end for most offshore guys is about $2,000 

There are often some "outdated" units that the guys dump cheap


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## bcbouy (Dec 22, 2011)

you should seriously consider picking up a couple scotty "laketroller" downriggers. they clamp on to the side of the boat,no drilling holes,and the're usually under a hundred bucks. fishfinders also help in following the shoal of a lake. its not so important with spinning gear,but trolling a wet fly you will slay fish all day long.


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## LonLB (Dec 23, 2011)

azekologi said:


> Ahab -
> 
> A lot of good info, I thank you for that. If I don't win the awesome Lowrance contest (which I'm sure is a stretch), I'll start doing some comparison shopping for lower end models that have the features that you mentioned.
> 
> I guess I'm willing to buy another gadget, say spending $100 +/-, but I know that I won't be buying a $300+ unit any time soon. :wink:


Like was mentioned you will want to go used. Also go with a black and white unit...imo for a used black and white unit in that price range I would be looking for a Lowrance X125 or X135. Both pretty good units....I bought a used X135 myself just haven't used it yet.....for that matter both my units are used and black and white. The other one is a LCX 15 M\T


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## Jonboat Jerry (Jan 3, 2012)

Great info guys. Also, when you find that used unit on Craig's list, do some research on the transducer as well.

A 20 degree beam will read the bottom area about 1/3 of the depth.
A 60 deg beam reads an area equal to the depth.
A 90 deg beam reads an area twice the depth.
Each has a specific use and I encourage looking them up on the different sonar forums. 

For us flat's fishermen, these are not going to be of much use in 2-3 feet of water. This is where
Side scan (humminbird) and structure scan (Lowrance, Sitex and others) have the advantage of showing
up to 150' on either side. I have to add that all this width needs a large screen ($$$)to see all that data.
Jerry


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