# Tip for carpeting deck with "trap door"



## tonynoriega (Feb 13, 2014)

With my deck/platform up front, I hope to make it just one piece of carpet.

The trouble I am having is the trap door in the platform.

I am diagraming, and drawing this out, but don't feel comfortable with what my ideas are on how to cut the carpet for the storage lid , aka trap door.

After some research, I think I am going with Dap contact cement.

I plan on brushing both the carpet and plywood with a light layer, letting them get tacky, they laying the plywood down onto the carpet.

My initial though is to cut the carpet for the trap door after I lay the plywood down and it has cured.

As you look at the photo







Would I cut the carpet in an "X" shape and fold the triangle pieces under?

I feel like that leaves just a bit of each corner exposed.

Is there a better way to cut for this opening?


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## huntinfool (Feb 13, 2014)

You can x cut and then trim them down so your not putting too much carpet underneath.


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## rscottp (Feb 13, 2014)

Would I cut the carpet in an "X" shape and fold the triangle pieces under?

I feel like that leaves just a bit of each corner exposed.

Is there a better way to cut for this opening?


No, there is no better way. You are going to have gaps in the corners if you use a single piece. Not that big of a deal IMO.


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## Macrosill (Feb 13, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=341688#p341688 said:


> tonynoriega » Today, 01:52[/url]"]With my deck/platform up front, I hope to make it just one piece of carpet.
> 
> The trouble I am having is the trap door in the platform.
> 
> ...



I am contemplating the same thing right now. I have not been able to come up with a better way then cutting an X and folding the trimmed excess under. If you were very concerned about how the exposed wood look you could trim up some small pieces to cover the exposed corners. The contact cement should work well for this.

I would suggest you carpet the plywood before it is secured in the boat. 

When covering the outside corners of the door you should cut the carpet on a 45 degree angle from the exact corner. This will cause the opposite issue, too much carpet and this will require more trimming.


How are you going to support the top when closed? Some wood strips or aluminum angle? Are you going to hinge the door or just have it removable? I see you have cut the flooring to cover the rough opening completely.

I have pondered this as well and think I am going to cut the floor so it only sits on half the width of the framed opening and the door will sit on the framed opening as well. Basically splitting the 2x4 frame in half. 1/2 for the floor and the other 1/2 for the door, just like joining 2 pieces of sub-flooring on a floor joist or 2 pieces of sheetrock on a stud. I think I am going to hinge the door as well so it does not fly off while trailering. I may try to just get a tight fit and use some type of cordage to tether the door in the event it comes loose.


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## WVfishnfool (Feb 13, 2014)

Check this out maybe it will help.
https://www.bbcboards.net/bassboat-restoration/159416-how-cut-corner-your-new-carpet-job.html


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## jtrip (Feb 13, 2014)

I did something similar to my Jon. I supported the door with wood below around the edges of the opening. After gluing the carpet I put 1in. aluminum angle with stainless screws around the the sides of the opening. I undercut the door so it would fit inside the aluminum door facing with the carpet folded over the edges and stapled to the back side of the door. I used outdoor carpet glue from Lowe's. Sorry I don't have a picture. It's been used for one summer and seems to be holding up just fine.


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## muskiemike12 (Feb 13, 2014)

You are going to need some framing inside the hatch. I think you need to do more tinkering there first, before you carpet. I also kept a 3/8" gap to make room for the carpet that you will need to fold over the edges. I glued and laid the carpet down, rolled it out and then scored the corners. After that I folded the flaps over the bottom and stapled with galvanized staples for extra security.


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## tonynoriega (Feb 13, 2014)

Thanks guys... Sounds like I just need to deal with a minor issue of some exposed corners....

I have a couple coats of Spar Urethane on the wood so exposure shouldn't be that big of a deal.

Yes, I have some "1"x1" pieces I plan to put inside the trap door frame to support the lid.

I also have some 90 degree support brackets, and a chunk of 2x4 under the lid to help with support for when I am stepping on that area.

Brian, I thought of doing the same thing, just expanding my trap door another 1" all around and using half of the 2x4 as support, but thought it would look "cooler" if I did it this way... I think either way would be sufficient... maybe less work if I had done it the way I thought at first. The other thought was that just having less framing exposed could be good... only time will tell.

Ok, I think I got a good feel for this. Thanks again.


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## Macrosill (Feb 13, 2014)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=341710#p341710 said:


> tonynoriega » Today, 10:51[/url]"]......
> 
> Yes, I have some "1"x1" pieces I plan to put inside the trap door frame to support the lid.
> 
> ...



I was thinking the same but wanted to maximize the opening and the smaller the opening the more the 1x1 will impede access. I also did not want the full weight of the door to be held by a few screws holding the 1x1 in place. I decided I felt better with the dorr supported by the framing. Not the only way, just my way.

Keep us posted on how it goes.


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## tonynoriega (Feb 13, 2014)

That thought crossed my mind as well. I think my opening is wide enough that it wont be too big of a concern.

The support issue you stated, was also why I am using the 90 degree brackets and a 2x4 under the lid to help with support.

Ill post pics soon... have to finish up sealing all of this before I start putting the pieces together.


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## thill (Feb 24, 2014)

If you cut the opening 3/4" wider all the way around, you won't have to add any wood or angle to the setup.

But you will have to cut new hatch lids, as they will be too small at that point. If you have the wood, that would be best, otherwise you will have to screw some kind of supports in around the perimeter.

-TH


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