# 1432 Delhi Boat Modification-Picture Update 7-26-11



## redphysher (Nov 24, 2009)

Hey all,

It has been awhile since I posted anything on this forum. Alot has changed in the past 5 months. I have a new house with a huge yard and plenty of room to finally fix up my 1432 jon boat. I have been holding out on doing any work to it due to not having the space. Also, my wife is expecting our 1st child it march. I will start on the boat after the thanksgiving holidays. Unforunately most of the work will be weekend only due to the time change. But, living in louisiana it is much much cooler this time of year on most days.

My plan has changed since last time I posted. I will just add floors and a few neat little surprises. I am drawing up a 3d model of the design on autocad right now and have been for a few weeks. Easier to see everything and make changes before i cut the aluminum. I plan to completely strip the boat from the terrible faded forrest green and brighten it up a little and put some stripes on it. (make it go faster!! :LOL2: ) I have to get all the area set up and ready to go for the work.

I will be posting loads of pictures. So, wish me luck.


----------



## CRAPPIE_SLAYER (Nov 24, 2009)

Good luck! Can't wait to see them pics start rolling in.


----------



## yak_n_fish (Nov 24, 2009)

Looking forward to the pics and the read, redphysher.

Oh and congrats on the impending new arrival.

Good luck!
yak_n_fish


----------



## Cheeseball (Nov 24, 2009)

Congratulations on your first baby! Take my advice, get the boat finished or as much work as possible done before the baby comes. Time comes at a real premium after that. I know, my wife just gave birth to our second child at the end of Oct.

Good look on your project. And remember...

ostpics:


----------



## redphysher (Nov 30, 2009)

Ok, I plan to start my sanding and paint removal on my boat trailer and then the boat. Coming up this weekend. Possibly a little work this week. I have changed my work schedule to be able to get off before dark. So, that will give me an hour and half or so of daylight before having to use lights. In my opinion natural light is so much easier to work around. I have a few questions before I get started.

Boat:
1) Can you use a palm sander to take off areas of paint that are not near rivets? (or can I sand the whole boat with it)
2) Should I only use a wire wheel to remove paint? To keep from damaging rivets. ( I plan to remove 95% of paint it has powdered per say...very chaulky)
3) What is the best aluminum angle to use for benchwork? 

Trailer:
1) It is a steel trailer (home made) that is rusted in places. I take my boat mainly to saltwater marshes here in Louisiana. I plan to replace the trailer in the future with a galvanized (or aluminum) trailer. Is it ok to sand it and re paint?
2) I need to replace the wiring harness and lights, any ideas on trailer lights?

thanks,


----------



## Specknreds (Nov 30, 2009)

I can't help you on the paint but the trailer I can. First, I would let how long before you get a new trailer dictate on the extent of your trailer rebuild. For parts try https://www.championtrailers.com/ I haven't been able to beat their price and they are in Slidell,LA. I replaced my axle, tires, rims, hubs, springs, and lights. I have almost $450 in it and I didn't paint anything. 

I took a old trailer to a monument place years ago and they only charged me $70 to sand blast it. Yes, you can redo the trailer as long as it hasn't rusted to a point it compromises the integrity of the metal.

I bought the LED lights from Walmart for $49. You can get cheaper ones but the leds seem to hold up better. One suggestion is to make guide post and mount them up high so they don't submerge. This will increase their life a 1000% in the enviroment we live in.


----------



## gunny146 (Nov 30, 2009)

a 3M large are paint stripping wheel will do ya better than the wire wheel. I started using a wire wheel on mine and it seemed to take FOREVER. A friend recommended the 3M wheel and it worked great. Just my 1/2 cent worth.


----------



## redphysher (Dec 1, 2009)

SpecknReds,

Thanks for that website. Very nice stuff there. As for how long I will be having the trailer probably a mininum of 2 years before I buy a new one or just sell the boat and trailer. So, I need to make it last a little longer. Do not get me wrong structurally it is sound. Most of the rust is cosmetic and on the surface. I do need to figure out a way to seal the holes where the wires come out of the trailer. It was made from 2"x1" steel tubing. Re-wiring it should be loads of fun. 

I will be getting started on the project this weekend. Hopefully friday as I am off work. woo woo


----------



## Hydrilla (Dec 1, 2009)

Re-wiring a trailer is as easy as it gets. As to stripping it, a cup style wire wheel on a grinder works well. Get the real aggressive one with braided strands, trust me it won't hurt your trailer. Spray it with some Rustoleum rust converter and then paint over that, it will be good to go.


----------



## Cheeseball (Dec 1, 2009)

redphysher said:


> 3) What is the best aluminum angle to use for benchwork?



I don't know that there is a best angle to use. I think it depends on your situation. I used 1 1/2" angle, a combination of 1/8" and 1/16" thick. Using the 1/8" thickness for longer spans and places bearing the most load. I used the 1/16" as braces and framed most of the back deck.

Front got the heavier gauge 1/8" stuff and the braces are 1/16". 






I didn't want to add too much extra weight to the back so I framed all of it in 1/16. It's not a long span. The end result is very sturdy.


----------



## redphysher (Dec 2, 2009)

Well

I have decided to possibly use a product called Uni-Strut in Aluminum. It is similar to channel pieces. I will be getting it at cost from a place I found. It comes in 10 or 20 foot lengths. Plus all the stainless hardware to assemble the stuff. Has anyone ever thought of using something like this? https://www.unistrut.com/ 

You can't order direct from uni-strut company. I have a personal suppiler if I use it. woo woo.

Also, it is possibly going to frigging SNOW in South Louisiana...what the heck is that??? On friday coming. I will just have to break out a thicker jacket. On the plus side, I will not be sweating alot...LOL


----------



## lckstckn2smknbrls (Dec 2, 2009)

With the strut you will have bolt heads above the level of the strut. The alum angle and rivets or wood will be a smoother finish to put your decking on.


----------



## Brine (Dec 3, 2009)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> With the strut you will have bolt heads above the level of the strut. The alum angle and rivets or wood will be a smoother finish to put your decking on.


Looks like there are various ways to assemble the product via the connectors to avoid having that be the case.

Not sure what your cost would be, but I am guessing it will be more to use the product at "your cost" vs. angle/tubing with rivets at retail pricing from a metal supplier, and I don't see the value in spending more to use it.


----------



## redphysher (Dec 3, 2009)

brine,

That is the case what is the cost effectiveness of the product. In the industry i work in (petro-chemical) it is used for various applications. I will have to look at "wholesale cost"(which is what I will be getting) vs. retail on angle and rivets.

Then, heck it might just be fun to do..LOL And it would be alot stronger. The Load bearing of a 1-5/8"X1-5/8"X3'-0" piece is 165 lbs. That is without a frame that is one piece at 3'-0" if you stood in the middle of it. I have yet to calculate what the load bearing of my completed frame will be. But I am sure it will be more that enough. Doing all that math stuff this weekend.

I will be posting pictures tommorrow of my boat in its present state and then pics of me doing some work finally. So, look out.Boy, I am going to screw this up LOL.


----------



## redphysher (Dec 7, 2009)

well,

Mother Nature did not like the idea of me working on my tin boat. It rained and was freezing cold. It is still raining today and the rest of the week. As soon as the weather clears I will get started for real.


----------



## redphysher (Dec 14, 2009)

Well,

Expect pictures tonight of the boat. I finally got the camera working right. Also, I had a family emergency to tend to this week. My family member is doing well. So, I have been away from the site and the boat all last week. I do have the trailer prepped for sanding. The stupid weather is still hating on me though.


----------



## Brine (Dec 14, 2009)

Welcome Back.

Glad to hear your family memeber is ok. Weather has been miserable here too.


----------



## Ram (Dec 14, 2009)

Looks like it's gonna be a sweet boat project, can't wait to see the progress.


----------



## redphysher (Dec 14, 2009)

Finally a few pictures for everyone. 





Trailer with bunks removed. Minor sanding before the all the rain




Just another picture of trailer (Homemade built by the previous owner)




picture of the 'ole boat




side view of the boat


----------



## redphysher (Apr 5, 2010)

Well,

i am offically back. I know I bounced in a few months back. My daughter was born on Feb 23 2010. She is 6 weeks old today. time flies but it is great. 

I have sanded my trailer down and primed it. It has been sitting in the backyard for 3 months. A little touch up sanding with a little more primer and I will be ready to paint the trailer. 

I have decided for ease of assembly and cost to go with 2x2 wood and 1/2" plywood. I will be sanding the boat this weekend and getting ready to paint it by sunday. 

i do not really have any new pictures or progress. I will have a lay out the plan soon.


----------



## redphysher (Oct 19, 2010)

Well Guys/Gals

This is the 3rd time i posted about modding my 1432. I have been way to busy to mod anything. I have my 7 month old daughter and she keeps me way to busy. And then there is work. But, mainly, it has been to darn hot in south louisiana to do anything but look outside and watch the squrriels sweat over some hidden acorns they forgot about. 

Well, I finally got the lay out squared away and I am going to cut out the front bench like Bufford did here on the forum. I am going to go pick up the lumber this weekend. 

I am not going to deck the boat. I am putting floors in and building a rod storage box on the left side and a storage box on the right. Tried of having rods everywhere in the boat and I have broke one too many anyhow. I am also painting the boat. It has the same paint on it from 1976. which is pretty much powder now. the trailer will get a face lift too. So, on to a few pics.







side view





close up of my temporary crappie spider rig layout (caught 20 crappie last week with this)

I will be posting new pictures this weekend sanding and painting the trailer and boat


----------



## Brine (Oct 19, 2010)

Welcome back.

What a beautiful little girl you have there! If you can't be working on the boat, at least you're using it!


----------



## redphysher (Oct 24, 2010)

I started sanding down the boat and i am going to apply the etching primer this week(end). The poor paint is like powder. it is the orginal factory paint from 1979 or so. It sands off with no effort. One of the many reasons I am painting it. I plan to paint it with quality paint from Interlux or another brand. My boat is a 1432. Anyone have any idea if I need a gallon or would a quart do it. i have never been good figuring paint. Also, anyone used interlux?

thanks,

PS-Pics tommorrow it is dark thirty right now.


----------



## redphysher (Oct 25, 2010)

Ok. I sanded some on the boat yesterday. I have discovered rustoleum paint carries a marine grade paint. You can order from Home Depot. 2 qts for $30 US. anyone used this ?? Also, I have my layout sort of done. Not sure about the paint on the sides. Take a look:


----------



## devilmutt (Oct 25, 2010)

I used the Rustoleum Topside paint on my build. I had some issues getting a good finish; however that is most likely due to my inexperience with the spray gun, and a cheap gun. You can see the results in the thread in my sig line.


----------



## redphysher (Oct 31, 2010)

So, I got the sanding started. All i can say is what a mess that makes. I have the bottom sanded 99% complete. I have one side almost done and the bow is done. So I have the port side the sand down. I have gone through 5 tack clothes and it is looking like a sanded boat. i am probably going to start priming by the weekend. What is the best way to remove the loose paint grit. I have some acetone and MEK would it matter which one I use to clean the boat? I will get some pictures for latter today. I want to sand some more before i take a couple of pics.


----------



## redphysher (Jul 12, 2011)

Wow! A little over a year since i posted about my boat. Once again I am back working on it. This time I am rocking and rolling (mainly to Foo Fighters LOL) I have the trailer painted and the boat primed with etching primer. The Miss's allowwed me to take over the carport much nicer than the 107 heat index beating I have been taking. I have made so many changes and thoughts and re thoughts this boat modding is not for the faint hearted lol. My daughter is now 17 months old and stands by the door watching me work lol. 

I have changed my mind once again this is a 90/10 saltwater/spider-rig crappie boat now. i will be spending a ton of time flyfishing for redfish and specks but sometimes spider-rigging for crappie. So, see once again mind change. my head hurts lol. I will post some current pictures tonight of the progress. 

So, I have a question:

I rattle canned the Self etching primer on the boat. In some places it powdered up. I am presuming in those places the aluminum was not cleaned properly. Or is that normal? I never used self etching primer before. I am going to need about 3 more cans to finish up.


----------



## jonmac3569 (Jul 13, 2011)

The self etching primer that I am using says to sand it lightly with 400 grit sand paper after it dries, and before you apply paint. I did that today and it looks smooth now.


----------



## redphysher (Jul 14, 2011)

ok. I will sand it. It appears to be an adhesion issue. i can wipe it off with a tack cloth. I will re sand those spots and clean it up again with some solvent and re prime.


----------



## cooter brown (Jul 14, 2011)

Hey redphysher, did you ever use the unistrut? I am in the electrical distribution business and we sell it. I have been thinking of using it on my braces. 

Eric


----------



## redphysher (Jul 15, 2011)

i have not got that far. And I have decided to fix this boat up and sell it in order to get a bigger boat. 1432 is a little small for decks and such. I am going to just floor this and add a storage section in the front bench seat. I plan on using it on the 1754 I got my eye on.


----------



## redphysher (Jul 18, 2011)

I got a pin hole in my boat. I am talking a hole that small 1/16" wire will go through. I did not notice until late in the repainting of the boat. I am curious can I put some JB weld on it. Nothing serious on the leaking of course but it could possibly grow. And now I know why my boat gets a little water in it. i do not want buy steel-flex for such a tiny hole. any suggestions?


----------



## Jim (Jul 26, 2011)

I think i merged the topics correctly!


----------



## redphysher (Jul 26, 2011)

Thanks Jim,

this will work. 

Ok here is the pics I have been promising:





trailer one





Boat bottom it is blue





trailer complete minus the bunk boards.

if it will ever quit raining i can finish painting..I will be replacing the winch and jack...both are rusted


----------



## mmf (Jul 27, 2011)

redphysher said:


> I got a pin hole in my boat. I am talking a hole that small 1/16" wire will go through. I did not notice until late in the repainting of the boat. I am curious can I put some JB weld on it. Nothing serious on the leaking of course but it could possibly grow. And now I know why my boat gets a little water in it. i do not want buy steel-flex for such a tiny hole. any suggestions?


If you have a hole and can get to the backside of the rivet, you can use the SS rivets with a nut that I spelled out in my tracker project. I use them all the time below waterline, just put on some sealer and tighten the nut and it's fixed. Good luck!


----------



## redphysher (Jul 27, 2011)

it is not near a rivet. It is in the middle of the boat right under the front bench seat. Along a skeg, like i said it is not big. i will be able to investigate further once i get into the bench seat.


----------



## benjineer (Jul 27, 2011)

I'd try JB weld or either 3M 5200.


----------

