# old beat up 16 Lowe convert to duck boat.



## dtwarrow (Sep 17, 2010)

Okay guys, this is my mod. Probably not the cleanest or most interesting, but its what I could afford. Basically I am taking this 150 dollar beat up lowe flatbottom and building a duck boat. Plan is to put a front deck on it for storage and a dog platform. Camo, New transom, Motor, a blind and a bench seat to hunt from.

I also needed to mod the trailer a bit. Lights and bunks.

Here is what I started with...


----------



## dtwarrow (Sep 17, 2010)

primer paint, and camo test


----------



## dtwarrow (Sep 17, 2010)

Front deck work based on some ideas ckstckn2smknbrls showed me.


----------



## dtwarrow (Sep 17, 2010)

more deck pics


----------



## dtwarrow (Sep 18, 2010)




----------



## dtwarrow (Sep 18, 2010)

bench seat


----------



## dtwarrow (Sep 18, 2010)

transom.not to easy to fix, but I'm workingon it.


----------



## lckstckn2smknbrls (Sep 18, 2010)

I like your camo simply but effective. Did you make your own stencil?


----------



## dtwarrow (Sep 19, 2010)

Thanks! Yeah, just used some foam sheets and cut out some patterns. It's not bad I guess. Was just a test but I think it will be good enough for this year duck hunting.
Got a 15 Horse Evinrude that is old yesterday. Free motor so no complaints, but the bottom cylinder was rusted.... Was able to get it moving again but I doubt the compression in that cylinder will be up to par. We shall see. But free is feee and I'm betting I can get it to run... I'll just take trolling motor and oars with me when it's cold out just in case.


----------



## lckstckn2smknbrls (Sep 19, 2010)

dtwarrow said:


> transom.not to easy to fix, but I'm workingon it.


When I replaced my transom I removed the corner caps and straightened out the top. I then slid the new transom wood in one piece and re-bent the aluminum over.


----------



## dtwarrow (Sep 19, 2010)

More pics... I worked on the boat for a few hours tonight.put the trailer lights on and the headlights on. Fire extinguisher.. headlight switch. battery in the boat. made a camo engine cover from a canvas cover from an older boat.
I like the way the deck props up toallow accessto the battery/ storage area


----------



## dtwarrow (Sep 19, 2010)

more pics


----------



## cali27 (Sep 19, 2010)

Boat looks great man. Hope you do get the motor working, let us know. Dont need a lot of money to have a really nice rig that suits your needs.


----------



## dtwarrow (Sep 19, 2010)

more...


----------



## dtwarrow (Sep 20, 2010)

Okay, I gave pics, now I’ll babble on for a few….
I know it looks very messy right now… cause it is… But I’ll be taking off everything and either borrowing the neighbors power washer or taking it to a self car wash to get the dirt out of the inside. Not sanding in there… but will wipe it with acetone. Then I’ll give it a coat of the self-etching primer that is a decent OD color. I MAY put in a plywood floor, but I might not.. If not I’ll probably use some flat black on the floor. Thought about the spray on truck bed liner, but I’m betting that stuff won’t work real well out of a rattle can and I am not going into the whole roller thing. I’m going cheapo here so not getting carpet yet unless I find some free.
I was thinking about flipping it over, wire wheel rivets and spot on some JB weld just in case. They all seem real tight and I was told there are zero leaks, but you never know till there is water in it or under it… I did see one rivet on the side that had an anvil mark on it so maybe that was the only leak and he fixed it that way. 
Steelflex is out for now… Cheapo me… Although that was my original plan. So I kinda figured just JB weld any areas that even remotely look like they might leak… I know it’s not the best idea… but it should work??? I hope??? Just to keep any leaks at bay…???

I have to wire the trailer lights and the headlights and was thinking about getting some led interior lights too. I will leave the Baja lights @ 55 watts instead of getting some 100 watt bulbs. I have a Q beam spot / flood light that will help when running in the dark so I’m not worried about that. I don’t plan on trying to run real far and fast in the dark.

This old Rude needs a gas tank and hose that gets pressurized. Assuming I can get it running in the first place… would putting the gas tank up front be too much of an issue with the pressure tank? How hard is it and how expensive to run gas line from the front to back? I’d rather have the gas up front for the weight along with the batteries. If not no big deal…

Still have half the boat to paint and there is so much gunk caked to it I was planning to wire wheel it as well. That’s what I did to the first side. But it takes a heck of a lot of time. If I wash it and acetone clean… will the self etching primer be enough that I don’t need to sand / wire wheel it? I’d really like to just paint it and not take all that time. If I were going to use steelflex on bottom I would use the wire wheel, but this is just paint…. Thanks for any comments on that…

So the blind is the only other big thing I need to work on besides the motor. All I can say is I will make it right for me… Other than that, the options are limitless…. I know how it will be framed. I’m just not sure about the blind material itself. I have some canvas (same as that motor cover I sprayed camo) that might work, but it’s not waterproof. Maybe I could spray it camo and then with camp spray waterproofing? Would be heavy though…
I was thinking of using a tarp (the plasticy pvc kind at lowes and wallyworld – usually blue or brown or silver) as a backing and spraying some flat brown on it, then camo burlap, netting and brush… I just want a wind / rain blocker and netting with raffia grass and other brush… I’ll have to work that all out…

Thanks for looking and any help is appreciated. I love this site! I’m planning on getting a deep V in the spring and converting it into an amazing catfishing machine. I like the camo and mud and beat up old boat, but I really want to do some shiny painting and comfortable seats.
Thanks again and more to come..


----------



## benjineer (Sep 20, 2010)

I've never had one that had a pressurized tank, so I don't know what's involved. It might need twice as much hose if it has to have a return line or something. I'm sure regular fuel line would be fine. Don't expect it is a very high pressure. With a regular tank, it's easy and cheap. You just buy some 5/16 hose and extend the lines from a standard tank putting the primer bulb at the back. I'd also use one of those inline transparent filters near the engine. Do you have to get a special tank?


----------



## dtwarrow (Sep 20, 2010)

I believe the gas tank is preasurized via a bike pump... So iys just one of those older ones you put air in so it pushes the gas out... I think...


----------



## dtwarrow (Sep 21, 2010)

Well I finished up the camo on one side and it is hella dark. Looks cool, but too dark... I may go ahead and try to stencil a grass pattern to lighten it up and see what happens with that.


----------



## madbasser (Sep 21, 2010)

You should not have any trouble with the pressure tank being so far. They are expensive though, because they are so hard to find now a days. They have a pump built in that primes the carb, then the motor pressurizes the tank as it runs. If you find one u will probably need a rebuild kit for it. They also use a special hose. Its a dual line type that has two hoses molded together. 

I'll send you a PM with some more info.


----------



## benjineer (Sep 21, 2010)

I found several of those tanks for sale on the Bay. Sent you PM with link to the nicest one. This is not it but shows the dual hose setup.


----------



## lckstckn2smknbrls (Sep 21, 2010)

You can convert the motor to use a fuel pump with a newer tank and single fuel line.


----------



## Tettle07 (Sep 21, 2010)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> You can convert the motor to use a fuel pump with a newer tank and single fuel line.



From what I have read, and at least in Texas, it is against the law to run electric fuel pumps on these type of old motors solely due to the fact that if the line becomes dis-lodged, or you sink the boat, or whatever happens... that electric fuel pump will not shut off and will empty the contents of the tank into the lake... I thought about doing the exact thing and spoke with a GameWarden about it and he told me I would get a ticket everytime a warden saw that set up. So... if you decide to do it... be extra sneaky and hide it well....


On another note any old style tank like that one has a diaphram in it and when you buy that tank if the diaphram has not recently been replaced you need to replace it..... the diaphram costs about $40 and isn't too bad to replace. My $0.02....


----------



## dtwarrow (Sep 21, 2010)

Well, I'm not at the motor portion of my boat just yet. But please keep sending the info and advise. THANKS.

I cut out a couple grass stencils tonight, made the missus and kids help me hold them against the boat and sprayed a decent pattern on it. I personally think it looks darn good, but I have not been able to get the pics from my phone for some reason. I'll try again and see if I can post them. Then I had to grill some chops and eat, so thats all I got done tonight. I'll probably look at the motor this weekend.
I do have a Johnson 9.9 but it's a longtail. Id rather get this thing running and use it than build a jack plate or build up the transom.. or ?????? whatever else I would need to do to get it to fit the small Lowe transom.
Mean time I will work on everything else...
Thanks again guys.


----------



## dtwarrow (Sep 21, 2010)

Ah... finally got them to work... Here is the camo...


----------



## lckstckn2smknbrls (Sep 21, 2010)

Tettle07 said:


> lckstckn2smknbrls said:
> 
> 
> > You can convert the motor to use a fuel pump with a newer tank and single fuel line.
> ...


It's not an electric pump it is a fuel pump from a newer OMC motor. It's not a hard mod but it does cost a few bucks.


----------



## dtwarrow (Sep 24, 2010)

Okay... Finally got the boat registered. That took most of my day off today. I was able to work on it a little today before it rained a smalll amount. I took everything out and cleaned the interior. took a wire brush to the inside sides and primered the inner walls. I'm not doing the floor. it's a duck bot so I figure I either need to put in a floor or leave it alone. It's certainly not shiny at all, so I'm not worried about it for now.
Wired the trailer lights yesterday and I am making some guide ons. My trailer is so much wider than the boat so I am using some 2x4's sticking strait up. I painted them white but I think I'll wrap them with carpet now just so they don't put white on the boat if it happens to rub against them.
I either need a new winch or a new strap for the one I got. It works fine, but the strap has been cut way down and is not really usefull past 7 feet. I'll probably just get a new one.


I took pics but have not loaded them yet... I'll get around to it...


----------



## dtwarrow (Oct 3, 2010)

got the blind in... more pics


----------



## dtwarrow (Oct 3, 2010)

blind pics


----------



## dtwarrow (Oct 5, 2010)

Opinions on the winch? New one or just a new strap?


----------



## dtwarrow (Oct 7, 2010)

Okay guys maybe I should put this in the motor section but I'm gonna try to get this sucker started this weekend. Have no gas can yet, any help on that is welcome... I'm gonna see if it will start on fluid at least... Gotta be ready by 15th for duck season. Cutting it close...
Have to do the other side camo paint and blind. But the primer and base is done so it should not take more than a few hours to knock them both out... Then wire the headlights and besides the motor, I'm done!


----------



## lckstckn2smknbrls (Oct 7, 2010)

dtwarrow said:


> Okay guys maybe I should put this in the motor section but I'm gonna try to get this sucker started this weekend. Have no gas can yet, any help on that is welcome... I'm gonna see if it will start on fluid at least... Gotta be ready by 15th for duck season. Cutting it close...
> Have to do the other side camo paint and blind. But the primer and base is done so it should not take more than a few hours to knock them both out... Then wire the headlights and besides the motor, I'm done!


Don't use starting fluid it doesn't have any lubricating properties. Just use a spray bottle with the proper fuel oil mix.
They do make a starting fluid with lube if you can find it.


----------



## dtwarrow (Oct 10, 2010)

Finished the transom, got the other side painted and the blind sewn on and painted but not brushed yet.
Got a good line on a gas can... Looking over the motor, carb looks new, so thats a good thing I think. I have not tried to get it started yet, taking your advise and not starting it on fluid alone. Should have a gas can some day this week and go from there...


----------



## lucescoflathead (Oct 18, 2010)

Did you get my PM about the pressure tank? Thanks Todd


----------



## benjineer (Oct 18, 2010)

dtwarrow said:


> Opinions on the winch? New one or just a new strap?



If it's working, new strap from wal-mart. Much cheaper than winch. WD-40 and grease if you think it needs it.


----------



## dtwarrow (Oct 25, 2010)

Well, I found a local gas can rebuilt for under 50. Nice guy too.
I have not been able to get the motor to run, but it has spark and did start for about 5 seconds a few times... Hope I just have to adjust the amnt of gas it gets... Two knobs on the front for adjustments. All the markings mostly rubbed off but they are both attached to the carb. Lower one looks like it opens up more fuel, top one looks like it opens more air... That will be fun adjusting that just right... 
But it's getting fuel and spark... So I'm sure I'll get it to run... not sure how well it will run...


----------



## dtwarrow (May 29, 2011)

Update. Been a while since I worked on the boat. I didn't get to use it last season for duck hunting so I kinda put it off for a while. I was able to get the old 15 hp motor to run but it has other issues. looks like compression and needs an impeller. I currently have the carb apart to clean it. So when it runs it will be a backup as the compression is lowr in bottom cylinder than top. Not by too much but still dont want to run it if I dont have to. So I bought a 9.5 seahorse that runs great so far.
I had a 2x4 carpeted in the front of the trailer for the boat to sit on in front. I replaced it with a roller.
I got some ply and cut it to fit the mid floor. Sealed it and have carpet to put on it. SO the boat will have a floor in the middle. Up front I may leave open for decoy storage, but I do have enough wood and carpet to floor it if I want.
Thats about it. Finally able to get it on the water so I'll prob take it out fishing next weekend to see how things go. This is my first duck boat and I didnt want to put much into it. I'll be on the lookout for afishing boat soon though. That I will make as nice as the rest of yours on here. I really don't care much how the duck boat looks as long as it gets me there and is hidden from ducks.


----------



## dtwarrow (May 29, 2011)

pics


----------



## dtwarrow (May 30, 2011)

Well I finished the floor. pics to follow...


----------



## dtwarrow (May 30, 2011)

cut the plywood, sealed it and let that dry. then Icut the carpet to size and glued it on and stapled it underneath.


----------



## FFDOZIER (May 31, 2011)

Good Deal Brother. Boat is really starting to come together.


----------

