# My 1436... or wait.. 1432 mod



## dyeguy1212 (May 10, 2009)

To start things off, you can read my thread https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&p=88285#p88285 to find out how this project got started. Long story short, I ended up with a 1432 instead of a 1436.

So my plans of a big deck and creative storage will have to wait a few years, until I can get my hands on some money, and a bigger boat.

I do have some plans for this boat though, starting with stripping it down, painting it, building low decks with carpeting, some good seating, and whatever kind of storage I can come up with.

I'll attach the original Craigslist pictures, and update it as I go. Being May already, I'll be busting my rear end to get this done so I can do some fishing, so any help or tips would be greatly appreciated. If you happen to come up with some good storage ideas or anything else, pass them along! 

This will be a huge learning experience and an even bigger money pit (especially for a college kid), but I'm confident it will turn out great.


As you'll see from the original pictures, and as you'll see from the final pictures in the future, this will be a huge transformation. This boat really needs some work, but its going to look awesome. Thats why I'm naming this Operation Polished Turd, and the name will be passed onto the boat upon completion.

Thanks for looking!


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## dyeguy1212 (May 10, 2009)

As you can see from the pictures, there are a million things attached to this boat. Which means, a million holes. My first step was to detach everything, and grind down the edges left from the screws. I found a few holes in the hull, and even more in the seats. My plan is to Bondo all of them before painting, even though many of them will be covered up anyways. I'd just prefer to start with a clean slate.

Anyone have any gripes about using Bondo? It seems like a good choice, but it I will have any problems down the road, please fill me in now!


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## dyeguy1212 (May 10, 2009)

Here are some pics after everything is removed, after some grinding, ready to be powerwashed and stripped of paint.


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## Cheeseball (May 10, 2009)

Polished turd? Looks like a diamond in the rough to me! Nice boat, even though it's not the width you planned on. Just keep the deck low. You can still add storage as well. Also, keep in mind that your skinny will be much quicker than a wider boat with the same motor! Do you plan to keep the slat work floor? I was thinking of adding something like that on my boat. 

From what I've read on other threads, Bondo is not a good idea. Epoxy resin seems to me the material most suggested and I will probably use that on the holes in my rig. Anyone else have a suggestion for hole patching?


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## dyeguy1212 (May 10, 2009)

thanks for the advice cheeseball... I'll have to check it out at home depot.

I dont plan to keep the flooring in, as its made of cheap wood that isnt water proof. I will be using it as a template for my flooring tho, because it is perfect size and essentially what i'll be making with plywood.

I power washed it today and not much paint came off, but it did take a few years worth of dirt and grime out. Its really cleaning up nice, and the next step is to figure out an easy way to get the paint off. The wire wheel takes FOREVER, so I'm going to try a few paint strippers I have around the house, and if it doesnt work that well, I'll spring for some better stuff I found at Murrays.

The plan is to apply stripper, let it sit, and then drive the boat to a quarter car wash. I can't rinse it at my house because we have a well, so I guess I'll let the car wash deal with it, unless someone has an environmentally safe way of getting the job done...


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## Andy (May 10, 2009)

I used a palm sander on my 10 footer just to rough up the paint. but on my 12 footer I used the wire wheel on a drill and it worked great, I also tried some stripper, and the wire wheel was faster for me than the stripper. 
I really don't think you would want to take it to a car wash.. I would much rather take the wire wheel over the EPA any time. Unless you can get an enviro friendly stripper.?? I haven't dealt with strippers alot so I don't know if you can or not..


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## dyeguy1212 (May 10, 2009)

The more I read into it, the more it seems like I'll just have to chip it off and collect it in a bucket. Power washing might be faster, but I dont want to mess up plumbing or ground water.

The problem is, I need to take off ALL of the paint, as its really crappy. Taking a wirewheel to it just seems extremely tedious for a 14 foot boat. But if the stipper doesn't work out, I won't have much of a choice...


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## dyeguy1212 (May 10, 2009)

I also wanted to ask about the pink or blue 1 inch foam people use for flotation. I am considering cutting a spot in the front bench for a battery, which means a decent amount of foam will have to be removed. I want to put the blue/pink foam under the floor boards to compensate (and deaden noise), but I've never seen it anywhere. Any tips on where to find it and prices?


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## ober51 (May 10, 2009)

Sometimes there's just no way to get around the wire wheel and the sander, and it stinks for sure.


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## dyeguy1212 (May 10, 2009)

Here a paint picture I put together to get a basic idea for the mods. Its a little hard to decipher, and its subject to change. The rear storage will be supported by 2x2, with the dark green representing where they might be placed. The rear storage wont be a weight bearing structure, so I can afford to only have a little bit of support. The bow will basically be 3/8 boxing it in, with a little door to access the storage compartment.

I'm not sure what I'm going to do about a mount for the trolling motor in front, but I sure as heck know it will be study to avoid dropping my 200 buck TM in the water when I switch directions too fast....


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## dyeguy1212 (May 11, 2009)

I've done some research and I'm going with Bright red Pettit Topside Easypoxy, and I'm just going to hope it doesnt blister on the bottom.

I still need to find a good self etching primer, and I really have no idea where to start. I'm looking to get it from HD to save on shipping costs. I also need to find the correct thinner to allow me to spray the topside paint thru a gun.

The interior will be done with the off brand etching primer and rustoleum semi gloss black. I'm hoping this stuff will last, but its cheap so its not a big deal if I need to touch it up once in a while.

I'm hoping to keep this whole process as cheap as possible, so we'll see what happens after I get the old paint off tomorrow or the next day.


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## ober51 (May 11, 2009)

dyeguy1212 said:


> I've done some research and I'm going with Bright red Pettit Topside Easypoxy, and I'm just going to hope it doesnt blister on the bottom.
> 
> I still need to find a good self etching primer, and I really have no idea where to start. I'm looking to get it from HD to save on shipping costs. I also need to find the correct thinner to allow me to spray the topside paint thru a gun.
> 
> ...



Here are a couple options for self-etch primer:

https://www.duplicolor.com/products/primer.html --> Where to Buy: Advanced Auto Parts, AutoZone, NAPA, O'Reilly, and more. Usually runs about 6-7 bucks a can. I saw it at Advanced near me, which is what I will be buying. I used like 5 cans, the bigger ones too, for the top half of the hull (inside and out). But that wasn't Duplicolor, it was something else from NAPA called TECnique professional car care self etching primer. I'd use Duplicolor next because I hated the spray part for TEC. 

https://www.moellermarine.com/aftermarket/marine_paints/primers/ --> Where to buy: WestMarine; more expensive, but I have heard good things about Moeller. 

https://www.rwmallon.com/catalog.asp?prodid=553560&showprevnext=1

I think Duplicolor might be the best bet around me, but call around, they will let you know how much it costs.


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## dyeguy1212 (May 11, 2009)

Thanks for the tip ober... I'll check out a few of those places and see what they've got



I just spent the past 2 hours wire wheeling... I got the transom and one side almost done.... soooo time consuming

but I buddy from high school randomly called me today and asked if I wanted to go fishing, so looks like I'm taking a break to go out on his 94 tracker...


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## ober51 (May 11, 2009)

dyeguy1212 said:


> Thanks for the tip ober... I'll check out a few of those places and see what they've got
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Yeah, and then you should tell him that you have some great brews...and get him to wire wheel with you. After all, goes much quicker with two guys doing it.


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## cubanredneck (May 11, 2009)

Check out NAPA autoparts for the etching primer and if the paint is good just scuff use the etching primer were you went down to metal then prime and paint no need to get all paint off.


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## dyeguy1212 (May 11, 2009)

I actually do need to get all the paint off though, because this stuff chips off if you look at it the wrong way. I'd prefer to start with a clean slate if I'm going to spend all this money and time.


In other news, I'm one of the few Michiganders to get hired this summer [-o< ... got a 3 night a week job doing janitorial stuff... 100 bucks a week... thatll pay for some marine carpet!


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## Cheeseball (May 11, 2009)

Stripping the paint shouldn't be to bad on the outside of the boat if the paint is as bad as you say it is. Should come off in sheets. Get some plastic scrapers and scrape away. It doesn't take too long. Get some old socks that you're going to throw away anyway. You know the five or six singles that don't have a mate just sitting in your sock drawer. Use them to stuff the scraped paint into. They make great little toxic sausages. Then you can dispose of the nasty stuff in a manner that is more friendly to our fish friends (and the guy who has to clean the power washing stalls).

Also, you'll need a jug of Acetone to do a wipe down after your done stripping and before you begin painting.


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## dyeguy1212 (May 11, 2009)

Toxic sausages... got it!


I actually tried a little bit we had laying around the house, and it worked pretty darn good. I'll pick some more up tomorrow, but I think I'll keep putting it in the brown paper bags haha


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## Ranchero50 (May 12, 2009)

If I remember right the clean strip can said the stuff is harmless once it dries.

A bunch of 3m Scotchbrite pads work wonders too. Just do small 1'x2' sections and keep them wet. Lucky you can even tilt the boat to keep the working sections level. Poor me had arm ache for weeks from scraping and scrubbing upside down.

Jamie


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## dyeguy1212 (May 12, 2009)

Burned up my last wire wheel today... all I have left is the interior and the bottom. I CANT WAIT to be done with this phase... im so sick of aluminum dust in my contacts...


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## dyeguy1212 (May 13, 2009)

Alright! Stripping is done other than the ribs (need a new wire wheel to hit them good) and then its on to fixing the holes and cutting out the middle seat top for storage..


I got one of those 3M wheel and they are a life saver.. used one up in about 4 hours tho. Once I switched to a new one, it took my about half the time as before. End result, great 20 bucks spent.


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## Cheeseball (May 13, 2009)

dyeguy1212 said:


> Burned up my last wire wheel today... all I have left is the interior and the bottom. I CANT WAIT to be done with this phase... im so sick of aluminum dust in my contacts...



Ah, stripping the inside as well. Now the fun begins.


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## dyeguy1212 (May 14, 2009)

Okay all done stripping!

I now need to cut the hole in the front bench and remove the foam, and figure out what the heck primer to get. The only self etching stuff at HD is paintbomb style, so I guess I'll have to blow the big bucks on that. I also need to get a cutting wheel for my 4in grinder, because my old one disappeared....

Here at the pics as she stands. Solid paint was left on the bottom because it will be covered by rustoleum, rubberized undercoating, foam insulation, and then decking. The rest is pretty darn flawless.


I used fiberglass bondo to fill in the holes, and it seems really solid. Its not the easiest to work with (because of the strands) but I think it will get the job done. And for anyone wondering, yes its like regular fiberglass, and I'm dying to take a shower to get the itchiness to quit!


Any comments welcome! I'll post up more pics when I get the priming done. (Not sure if I mentioned this, but pettit topside red will be used to the outside, and semigloss black rustoleum will be used on the inside)


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## poolie (May 14, 2009)

Nicely done!


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## ober51 (May 14, 2009)

It's hard to appreciate those pics unless you've done it yourself, so great job. Now comes the fun part - paint transforms a boat.


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## dyeguy1212 (May 14, 2009)

Thanks for the support guys... It really really really took a lot out of me. I literally spent 15 hours doing it. Set my alarm, got working, took a 20 min lunch/water break, and got back to it until I had to leave for work.


Meanwhile, Im sneezing blood from the fiberglass in the bondo, combined with aluminum dust and paint chips... not a good thing... #-o


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## ober51 (May 15, 2009)

dyeguy1212 said:


> Thanks for the support guys... It really really really took a lot out of me. I literally spent 15 hours doing it. Set my alarm, got working, took a 20 min lunch/water break, and got back to it until I had to leave for work.
> 
> 
> Meanwhile, Im sneezing blood from the fiberglass in the bondo, combined with aluminum dust and paint chips... not a good thing... #-o



No good, man. I went out and bought a few of those good respirators from 3M, worked wonders.


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## dyeguy1212 (May 15, 2009)

Took her out to a really small local lake to make sure the bondo was good and to see if it floats [-o< 

Everything seemed good... little more tippy than I had hoped... but thats what 4 inches less across the bottom gets you  

Just waiting to get some money from work to start painting.. its killing me not having the funds to get out on the water...


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## dyeguy1212 (May 28, 2009)

Alright sorry for the lack of updates. I've found that posting in this thread depresses me more. :roll: 

The boat is primed, and has been sitting on my trampoline, waiting to be sanded and painted. I have the rustoleum gloss black for the interior, but I'm waiting until I'm about to get the topside paint in the mail to begin applying it, so I can get all my painting done in about 3 days, weather pending.

I get my first paycheck friday, and I'm selling my old computer tomorrow so I should have a couple hundred bucks to play around with.

First on the shipping list will be an online order for:

one quart of top side paint
a few feet of wiring for my TM
and possibly a few other gadgets

next I'll make a run to HD for:

2 sheets of 1/2 or 3/8 ply wood (I'll decide when I get there)
possibly foam boad (depending on funds)
fasteners
hinges
waterseal
and something to make my TM mount with

and then I'll be too broke to afford carpet probably... which will put another hold on things.


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## ober51 (May 28, 2009)

dyeguy1212 said:


> Alright sorry for the lack of updates. I've found that posting in this thread depresses me more. :roll:
> 
> The boat is primed, and has been sitting on my trampoline, waiting to be sanded and painted. I have the rustoleum gloss black for the interior, but I'm waiting until I'm about to get the topside paint in the mail to begin applying it, so I can get all my painting done in about 3 days, weather pending.
> 
> ...




Sounds like a plan - I have to go over to HD for some ply myself, though I'll likely opt for the 5/8ths, since I have a bigger boat. Do you have a decent cover? I just wonder because the boat will be heavy and hard to flip once you've made the mods and then don't have carpet, you know? If it sits out and then it rains and it has no carpet or cover, things could be bad. Just thinking out loud...


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## russ010 (May 28, 2009)

as far as ply... stick with 15/32 exterior. It's like $20 per sheet, but it's light weight and won't make your boat that heavy

i used it in all of my boats and it works great


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## dyeguy1212 (May 29, 2009)

Thanks for the responses.


I don't have a cover, but a good 'ol fashioned blue tarp will get my thru until winter ( [-o< )


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## dyeguy1212 (May 30, 2009)

I did a little shopping at Lowes and HD today. Didnt have the trailer so I couldnt get the foam insulation of ply wood but I got:

(2) 1x4's (floor support)
Thompson's Water Seal
4 Hinges with hardware
Box of deck screws
box of screws for putting up chicken wire (has a finishing washer built in... nice and easy)

I still need the insulation and ply wood, along with a dollar store paintbrush for the water seal. Also need the supplies for the TM bracket.


Some of you might have seen my post about substituting an electrical plug for a TM plug, but after checking both stores, its cheaper to just buy a TM plug. Anything over 15 Amps in outrageously priced.


Ordered my topside paint today as well, along with some 6 gauge wire and some other goodies.


I'm getting there!


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## Zum (May 30, 2009)

Those winch plugs are cheaper,handle 6 or bigger gauge,handle 50+amps and can be found at most automotive stores.


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## dyeguy1212 (May 31, 2009)

Got two sheets of ply wood and a 1"x4'x8' sheet of pink insulation from HD this morning. Out another 37 bucks.


Had to strap it to the redneck utility trailer too.... i.e. the boat trailer.


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## dyeguy1212 (Jun 4, 2009)

The interior paint is done! Used gloss black rustoleum, and it looks pretty darn good. Taped off the edges, and to my suprise, they came out clean. I'll be starting the topside paint tomorrow =P~ . I'm pretty excited, things are really starting to come together.

Went on a shopping spree last night, and got a TM plug, seat base, registration letters, and a dry storage/bailer container, not to mention a 3/4 ox red eye shad in sexy shad color :twisted: 

Ordered my seats from Cabelas, got them on sale but two of them still cost me just under 100 bucks...


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## dyeguy1212 (Jun 4, 2009)

Heres some pics... the gray is primer. 

Note: The bottom and seats aren't painted because they will be covered with plywood.


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## ober51 (Jun 4, 2009)

Looks great, how many coats?


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## dyeguy1212 (Jun 4, 2009)

Just two, it seems pretty good. I feel like I should throw another one on considering I have the paint, but I already took the tape off... seems pretty solid tho, and can touch it up if need be.


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## russ010 (Jun 4, 2009)

looks good man - too bad you took the tape off already... the more coats you have, the more durable it will be against the stupid times you get clumsy and scratch it doing the most stupid things that shouldn't bother it


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## dyeguy1212 (Jun 4, 2009)

maybe ill just give the inside walls a quick once over and stay away from edges that could mess up the blank canvass....


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## dyeguy1212 (Jun 4, 2009)

took your advice... gave it one good, thick coat. Now I can sleep easy tonight :-


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## ober51 (Jun 4, 2009)

dyeguy1212 said:


> took your advice... gave it one good, thick coat. Now I can sleep easy tonight :-



Nice job - I didn't want to overtly say it, but I figured gently nudging you might do the trick! The more coats the better!


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## dyeguy1212 (Jun 4, 2009)

Yeah I have a feeling it will pay off... it seems pretty thick. I'm impressed with rustoleum so far. Easy to work with and it seems high quality. Much better spraying it myself than with a spray bomb.

The true test will be once its in the water... I have a feeling some rod tips will be chipping away at it..


going to SOS tomorrow morning to finally get the registration switched to my name... then coming back to start the topside paint... I'm nervous.. I hope it turns out purty... [-o<


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## dyeguy1212 (Jun 5, 2009)

got the registration today... turns out its a 93 monark.


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## ober51 (Jun 5, 2009)

dyeguy1212 said:


> got the registration today... turns out its a 93 monark.



Welcome to a good club!


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## russ010 (Jun 5, 2009)

dyeguy1212 said:


> Yeah I have a feeling it will pay off... it seems pretty thick. I'm impressed with rustoleum so far. Easy to work with and it seems high quality. Much better spraying it myself than with a spray bomb.
> 
> The true test will be once its in the water... I have a feeling some rod tips will be chipping away at it..
> 
> ...



rustoleum is some good paint, even if it's not really made for the water... but, with that being said - I wouldn't be scared to use it (especially for the inside)... it's actually very scratch resistant against rod tips and anchor chains (I know this from experience).

The extra coats will come in useful for those times too - each scratch you do should only be on the top coat, and underneat that will be the same color and you won't even notice it. You can always wet sand it back to hide the edges of the chip and it will be like brand new again


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## dyeguy1212 (Jun 5, 2009)

The really nice thing about rustoleum is I can spray it on with a good spray gun, and if need be, and I can buy a spray bomb of the exact same color and fill in any large chips or scratches..


First coat went on good! Used just under a half quart, and had to tilt it every which way to finish the last foot lol.

This stuff comes really thin, I couldnt believe I could thin it 5 to 1. But I did and it turned out pretty darn nice. Second coat will be the true test though. 

I was stupid and dealt with the compressor the entire time. The pressure would die off after a few seconds, and I'd have to stop and let it charge up again. I'm only drawing 60 psi out of a massive compressor, but I didn't figure out the line was kinked at the outlet until I was finished. Oh well.


Attached are some pictures of the first coat. Tomorrow around noon I'll throw on the second, and let it bake for a few days while I do the interior work.

I have one templete done for the middle deck, so I'll cut that out tonight and water seal it. After that, I'll have to wait until the paint is dry enough to put the boat back on the trailer to get the remainder of the boat done.

Supposedly I have to wait a WEEK to put my boat in the water so the topside paint will dry completely, which seems a little overkill to me. But all in all I should be on the water next weekend for sure.


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## ober51 (Jun 5, 2009)

Looking good. Keep up the good work.


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## russ010 (Jun 5, 2009)

Use every bit of paint you have - if you have just a little bit left over, use it on the bottom of the boat that will touch the trailer bunks and where it will beach up on the shore - trust me you will need it. I only put 3 coats on my other boat, and I wished I would have used what was left over in those spots.

But - it looks really good. I had my boat in the water 3 days after the final coat - and I put 2 coats on on the last day... it was like 100* outside though and in full sun... I waited til it wasn't tacky anymore and then blasted another thin coat on. Thin coats dry out quicker than heavy, so you'll be ok.


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## Cheeseball (Jun 5, 2009)

Looks great! Keep the pics coming...


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## dyeguy1212 (Jun 5, 2009)

Thanks cheeseball.


I'll probably have it in the water earlier than I'm supposed to, but we'll see how the weather is. Tomorrow it will be sunny and hot, so I'm doing my second, final coat. The next few days will be rainy, so I'm keeping the boat in the garage and working on the decks and carpeting. I'm sure the paint will be dry to the touch, but the humidity wont help my cause. 

I'm hoping the humidity wont mess with my water seal dry times either... I'm ready to get this thing done!

I cut the middle deck a few minutes ago... I'm not looking forward to working with this cheap arse plywood. My circular saw instantly turned into a splinter launching device...


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## ober51 (Jun 5, 2009)

dyeguy1212 said:


> Thanks cheeseball.
> I cut the middle deck a few minutes ago... I'm not looking forward to working with this cheap arse plywood. My circular saw instantly turned into a splinter launching device...



I was told that masking tape on both sides will eliminate that and make the result that much better.


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## dyeguy1212 (Jun 5, 2009)

Assuming painters tape will do, I'll be giving that a try! I'm going to pump my dad for some tips, considering he built this entire house I'm in about 8 years ago. I'm sure he has some ways to save me time.

Then again, he could tell me to get my boat out of his garage this week, and I'll be SOL. [-o<


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## dyeguy1212 (Jun 5, 2009)

So I was rummaging in the basement for some nylon straps from a back pack or something (to use for pull tabs on my storage doors) and I came across a freebie Verizon Wireless cooler I got at a pistons game. Being VW, its black and red. So is my boat. Check it out! I'm pumped about this find.. its the little things that impress the fishing buddies.


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## Andy (Jun 5, 2009)

Another tip for the plywood cutting. Make sure you have a good sharp blade and take your time cutting it will also lead to less splinters.


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## dyeguy1212 (Jun 6, 2009)

Alright the final coat is done! I saved a very small amount of paint in the bottom of the quart so I can fill in any spots that were covered by tape that shouldnt have been. I have a feeling when I come into some money I'll buy an entirely new quart to allow me to touch it up next spring.


It turned out great and looks pretty good! :mrgreen: The only problem with the high gloss is that it shows dents and waves in the aluminum much more than a flat color would have. Regardless, I'm pretty happy with the turn out. I put it on extra thick where it will be beached, make contact with bunks, and be strapped down (handles and surrounding area). I barely had to sand down any spots before recoating, so I REALLY recommend spraying it on, for those of you about to.

As you'll see in one of the pics, the tape covered a few spots that shouldnt have been, so I'm going to pick up a fine tipped artsy fartsy brush to fill in the minute spots of primer.


I'll let it bake the rest of the day in the 80 degree sun, while I go to Lowes and pick up the carpet and some odds and ends I need to get the interior done in the next few days.

I'll post up when I get some more done!


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## ben2go (Jun 6, 2009)

Boat is looking great.Nice find on the nylon strap.


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## dyeguy1212 (Jun 6, 2009)

Thanks Ben.


Went to lowes today and got a 7x12 peice of black carpet with rubber backing for under 6 bucks a sq foot. Also got some spray adhesive to spray on the ply before applying the carpet, and some more hinges for the storage area. Searched lowes up and down and they had no piano hinges,,, ended up getting some 3 inch door style ones for around 3 bucks.

I also got a small sponge (the ones on a stick of painting) to touch up the spots that the tape covered up.


I'm going to get going on the decks tomorrow morning.. hoping to get them all cut out and watersealed by tomorrow night. Rain is in the forcast for the next few days so we'll see how long it takes for that stuff to dry.


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## dyeguy1212 (Jun 7, 2009)

Alright the decking is almost complete! I worked from 7:30 AM to 7:15 PM I'm BEAT. Here are some pictures to get the jist of it. I will waterseal it all tomorrow, and the following day it will be carpeted and secured.


You'll notice the foam underneath, which worked out great. The middle decking doesnt have any supports other than the ribs, because it is filled with 1" foam (which is the same size as the ribs.) I made the foam just large enough to stay hidden under the decking, but allow me to reach down and get stuff that falls thru the gap easily. I painted the edges black so I wouldnt have pink showing through when you look at an angle. I also found you can "sand" the stuff on your drive way to get rid of the little pieces that break off. All the edges are rounded and smooth as can be.

Took me 2 tries to get the front deck right, but it turned out pretty good. Its LOADED with foam underneath, which is good considering I took so much out of the front bench. I'll get some more pics up when I have progress to show.


Sure hope she still floats :shock: it weighs significantly more.... [-o<


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## dyeguy1212 (Jun 7, 2009)

Oh and a little tip for those about the mod their boats.... Do the decking first (before painting)! Not saying you have to secure it, but get all the grudge work out of the way, before you put on fresh paint. I started to cry every time I chipped some paint off of a rib.


Another good idea would be to tape off the place youre working. I left the tape on the edges of the boat, so I could rest the boards on it and get them in and out without having to set up a hoist and pull them out at a perfect 90 degree angle :wink:


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## dyeguy1212 (Jun 8, 2009)

I got all of the water sealing done today. Took me a little over 3 hours (not sure why, considering its a very simple process).


I've decided I want to locate the main TM battery in the back of the boat, so I wasted a nice chunk of money on the wiring that was cut for the front bench. Oh well.


Seats came from Cabelas today. I'm disappointed that they dont look like the picture. The red is really dark, close to a maroon. They still look good, but they defiantly dont match the bright red hull.


So just waiting on the waterseal to dry... carpeting first thing tomorrow morning.







On another note, I have OFFICIALLY LOST MY MIND. 


I was going around the trim of the hull, filling in the spots that I missed spraying because they were covered by a little too much tape. I was close to being finished, when a fruit fly landed right next to the chip I was filling in. The fly was bigger. I put the paint away.


This has become a tedious process! :lol:


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## dyeguy1212 (Jun 9, 2009)

Carpeting turned out AWESOME! I've never done any carpeting what so ever, but it went on perfect. Sprayed a little adhesive on the boards, but I stretched that stuff so tight I doubt I need it.

Ran the wiring to the TM from the back of the boat, and it works perfect. Just need to secure the decks and seats, and build a TM mount and its finally done.

I'll post up some pictures tomorrow to show off my progress. Can't wait to get out on the lake thursday and friday. :mrgreen:


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## russ010 (Jun 9, 2009)

congrats man! Can't wait to see the pics!!


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## DiverDog357 (Jun 9, 2009)

Looking good so far. Cant wait to see the rest of the pics. I didnt read through the hole post just scanned through and read the picture posts. Painting the inside black and getting black carpet you may end up baking yourself and your fish b4 you get back to shore. I was surprised how hot my green metal and gray carpet got and I havent been out on a really hot day yet. You may be o.k, just make sure your not walking around in bare feet!


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## dyeguy1212 (Jun 10, 2009)

Pics have to wait till tomorrow guys... the boat was too dirty to show off! By the time I got it clean, there wasnt enough shooting light.


But on the bright side, its DONE! I'm so relieved to not put in 12 hour days on this boat anymore.


I promise pics tomorrow tho! :mrgreen:


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## dyeguy1212 (Jun 10, 2009)

Just found a couple pics I did take! Heres my trolling motor mount to make my transom mount into a bow mount. I forgot to take pics of it with the TM on it, but you'll get the idea. I bought strong ties and cut them off with a 4in grinder to make them fit, and screwed the hell out of them :lol: 

I then took the old aluminum from the front bench and put it over the brackets to give me a smooth clamping surface, and something that wont break down over time. Took me 3, count them 3, times to get the carpeting right, to eliminate the staples and seams. It looks good IMO, even tho it turned out a little more "round" that I wanted. But its bolted into the deck with 4 bolts, and its not going anywhere anytime soon.

I also have a pic of my anchormate, which is going to work awesome, despite being mounted at an angle. (You'll also notice the new decking... just a sneak peek....)


I also added a pic of the back seat. The swivel is mounted straight to the deck, which is a pain in the ass. I had less than an inch of clearance, and it took me almost 45 minutes to screw in 4 bolts!


More tomorrow!


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## dyeguy1212 (Jun 13, 2009)

here are some pics... I have to leave for work so I'll put up more later on.

Had it out twice, and everything is great!


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## dyeguy1212 (Jun 13, 2009)

some more


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## ober51 (Jun 13, 2009)

Well done [-o< Really looks nice. I forget, is that rhino liner on the inside? Carpeting job you did looks awesome.


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## Henry Hefner (Jun 13, 2009)

dyeguy1212 said:


> Thanks for the responses.
> 
> 
> I don't have a cover, but a good 'ol fashioned blue tarp will get my thru until winter ( [-o< )



Just read through your mod again, you did a great job! When I read this I wanted to warn you... those blue poly tarps are not waterproof! They shed water pretty well, but will not hold water, so at the very least you need to make some kind of frame so the tarp does not hold water, or it will drip into your boat. Then the tarp holds the moisture IN and you get a moldy mess!


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## cyberflexx (Jun 13, 2009)

That is very very NICE>. Cyber LIKEs


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## dyeguy1212 (Jun 13, 2009)

Thanks henry, I'll see what I can do about getting a cover.




Thanks for the kind words, and no its not rhinoliner, just rustoleum


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## dyeguy1212 (Jun 16, 2009)

Well I got a cover.. for free! My girlfriends dad had a 16 foot MV a few decades ago and still had the cover... its baby poop brown, but its still pretty water proof and fits alright. I'm just going to spray some campdry on it, and it should get me through until I sell it next summer :mrgreen:


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## priceman75 (Sep 27, 2009)

I just joined...what a great site. Great mod. I have a question. What is the stability with your boat? I ask because I have a tracker 1432 which I want to add seats and a floor. I know that by adding a floor won't make the boat anymore stable , but what is the stability like when you stand or use the seats. Is it worth adding a floor with a raised seat?
Appreciate your response.


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## jfab (Nov 21, 2009)

I hate to jump in and say "me too", but I am a proud new owner of a 1432, and am wondering, based on your mods, how it does in the water. Any issues with stability? It seems that your deck is pretty low, but those seats look pretty high for a 32. I hope you're still on the forum. You did a great job with that rig!

JFab


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## Cheeseball (Nov 21, 2009)

Lookin sharp!


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## ericshayes (Dec 8, 2009)

I have a 1432 also. I think I might do something like you did.


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## dyeguy1212 (Jan 1, 2010)

Just took a trip down memory lane and checked out this thread and realized I had some unanswered questions form new members....


The stability was OK. With the decks as low as they were, I could stand and fish all day long, and very rarely have an "interesting" moment. You run into trouble when youre hopping over the benches with a seat in your way.

With two people, the boat sits and heck of a lot lower, so it made me pretty nervous. With about 400 pounds of fishermen plus a 50 pound battery, we did okay, and could both stand in very calm water.


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## Nick Jones (Feb 11, 2010)

nice work bro! Man I would just lag bolt them to your 2x2's but the best thing about this site is someone may have a better idea. Sorry i was visualizing it totally wrong. 

If you go with a longer lag both you can bolt it through the 2x2's and to the original bench. It would never budge. of course, you will have to pre-drill the holes. also, make sure that your predrilled holes are not larger than your threads. yeah i know Captain obvious right.


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## dyeguy1212 (Feb 11, 2010)

Well I appreciate the input, but unfortunately (or fortunately) this boat is long gone. My current seat base question is for my new 1648 8)


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## jonboatjerry (Feb 11, 2010)

dyeguy1212 said:


> I also wanted to ask about the pink or blue 1 inch foam people use for flotation. I am considering cutting a spot in the front bench for a battery, which means a decent amount of foam will have to be removed. I want to put the blue/pink foam under the floor boards to compensate (and deaden noise), but I've never seen it anywhere. Any tips on where to find it and prices?


I didn't use the pink or blue insulation foam because of cost. I went with the regular old white styrofoam sheets. I purchased a couple of sheets for something like $6. It came in sheets of 10 ft. long by 2 ft. wide. It also comes in different sizes and thickness. I purchased mine at Menards. Plus, the regular styrofoam is also easy to cut to shape. It worked perfect for me. Good luck!


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## jonboatjerry (Feb 11, 2010)

dyeguy1212 said:


> Here a paint picture I put together to get a basic idea for the mods. Its a little hard to decipher, and its subject to change. The rear storage will be supported by 2x2, with the dark green representing where they might be placed. The rear storage wont be a weight bearing structure, so I can afford to only have a little bit of support. The bow will basically be 3/8 boxing it in, with a little door to access the storage compartment.
> 
> I'm not sure what I'm going to do about a mount for the trolling motor in front, but I sure as heck know it will be study to avoid dropping my 200 buck TM in the water when I switch directions too fast....


I purchased a trolling motor bracket from Madisonville Marine in Tenn. A gentleman from this sight gave me the addy for them. Email them and tell them what you have. It is also adjustable. A few toggle bolts should hold it in place with no problem.


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## WhiteMoose (Feb 12, 2010)

Well, I know this boat is gone, but I must have missed this thread somehow. Good job! That thing looked sharp.


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## dyeguy1212 (Feb 12, 2010)

Thanks, I appreciate it


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## dixie_boysles (Mar 19, 2010)

where did you get that ancor system for this boat?


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## dyeguy1212 (Mar 19, 2010)

Came with it... you can get them just about anywhere... Pretty sure bass pro sells them, along with most online boating supply stores


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## mstr215 (Feb 10, 2011)

Luv this mod dyeguy!!! Picked up an antique 1432. Care if i use your mod?
Just became a member. Will post a pic of my gem in the rough soon.


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## bassdan (Feb 10, 2011)

Looks good! I have the almost exact boat. I'm in the middle of change mine for the second time, needed more space.


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