# Our project boat- 1977 Blue Fin Sea Hawk



## daschmetterling (Oct 31, 2015)

Ok, like so many of you, I have been following all these builds and have been getting inspired for one of my own. What a great community of people on this site! So here is mine, or I should say "ours", since this project belongs to me and 2 other fishing buddies. We have been looking for a 16' jon boat for several years, and would ideally have a jet for running rivers to fish. But, with our budget, we ended up with this v hull, 16' sea hawk, and a 2003 50 hp Johnson prop. We have a lot of ideas for the boat, and it is just going to be set up as a serious fishing rig, with a center console and not much else to make room for trotline gear, rods, and big fish (hopefully).
Today was our first day on the build, we put 2 new tires on the trailer, replaced seals and bearings, made some adustments to the winch and bow stop, and set about to remove the transom. Since we are starting from nearly scratch on the boat, we figured now was the time to replace the one piece of wood. I got out all 30 or so rusted screws and bolts, remived the splash deck drain cylinder, remived a half dozen rivets, scraped off the old caulk, and even cut back some aluminum trim on the gunwale to easily get the transom out and in easily (this will be covered by end caps, so you won't see my cuts). 
That all went pretty smoothly, but we still can't get the transom out!
That is what lead me to write a post- I need your advice! Any tricks? 
We actually attached the transom to a chain connected to a winch on the ceiling, and ended up lifting the boat off the trailer (with me in it), and hammering and prying did nothing to budge it!
The only thing I can think is that the plywood transom is so waterlogged and swollen that the ends on the side are wedged.


----------



## Johnny (Nov 1, 2015)

try this - - - get some really long lag bolts and some chain that the lag bolts will
pass through, screw them down into the transom wood. Make loops for a 4x4 to pass thru.
put the 4x4 across the stern and try to "persuade" it up with a bottle jack under the
end of the 4x4. Then, switch to the other end......... you get the idea ?








.


----------



## lckstckn2smknbrls (Nov 1, 2015)

I can't see in the pictures but try prying up on the bottom of the transom with a 2x4.


----------



## Johnny (Nov 1, 2015)

a photo of the inside of the boat showing the full wood part will be of help to the gallery.
If you think the wood is swollen that much, maybe some vertical relief cuts
with a skil-saw ?? If all that effort does not work, you _may_ have have some adhesive
issues to address . . . . but, why would anyone want to glue a transom board into place ?


----------



## daschmetterling (Nov 1, 2015)

Johnny said:


> try this - - - get some really long lag bolts and some chain that the lag bolts will
> pass through, screw them down into the transom wood. Make loops for a 4x4 to pass thru.
> put the 4x4 across the stern and try to "persuade" it up with a bottle jack under the
> end of the 4x4. Then, switch to the other end......... you get the idea ?
> ...


Great idea- we'll try that. Right now we have it in a heated shop, hopefully drying out.


----------



## daschmetterling (Nov 1, 2015)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> I can't see in the pictures but try prying up on the bottom of the transom with a 2x4.


Unfortunately, there is no way to pry it from underneath because of a bracket it rests on. Thanks for the comments!


----------



## daschmetterling (Nov 1, 2015)

Johnny said:


> a photo of the inside of the boat showing the full wood part will be of help to the gallery.
> If you think the wood is swollen that much, maybe some vertical relief cuts
> with a skil-saw ?? If all that effort does not work, you _may_ have have some adhesive
> issues to address . . . . but, why would anyone want to glue a transom board into place ?


View attachment 1
View attachment 2

Johhny- thanks for the comments and advice! Here are a few photos that show the inside of the transom. All the aluminum is unscrewed from the transom, and you can easily pry it away from the plywood.
I hope there is no adhesive involved!
The only spots we can't see are on the edges on the sides (port and starboard), that is why I think it must just be swelling.
We tried some relief cuts, briefly, and that might be the best solution.
Thanks again!


----------



## lckstckn2smknbrls (Nov 1, 2015)

You may have to remove the splashwell.


----------



## daschmetterling (Nov 1, 2015)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> You may have to remove the splashwell.


I was afraid of that. It doesn't look like it is attached to the plywood anywhere (now that I have removed all the fasteners). 
Am I missing something? Hidden fasteners?
We are going to try to jack it out again tonight.


----------



## daschmetterling (Nov 1, 2015)

We found the problem. After using bottle jacks on the gunwale and even floor jacks and posts (in the picture)didn't budge the transom, we found the hidden fasteners (in the photo at the tip of the screw driver). 
We'll try again with a reciprocating saw to cut out the screws.


----------



## daschmetterling (Nov 1, 2015)

It doesn't look like the pictures uploaded...View attachment 1


----------



## bonz_d (Nov 3, 2015)

Nice looking project with a great base to start with. The way this hull is built it reminds me of many of the old Starcrafts.

Seems to me that sometimes removing a whole solid transom can be as much of a pain as removing an old rotted one and having to dig everything out.

Keep updating your work and I'll follow along.

Best o luck and tight lines!


----------



## daschmetterling (Nov 3, 2015)

bonz_d said:


> Nice looking project with a great base to start with. The way this hull is built it reminds me of many of the old Starcrafts.
> 
> Seems to me that sometimes removing a whole solid transom can be as much of a pain as removing an old rotted one and having to dig everything out.
> 
> ...


Thank you- it should be a fun project and we'll definitely post updates on our progress and especially questions!


----------



## daschmetterling (Nov 5, 2015)

We got the transom out! Two hidden screws was all that was keeping it in. 5 minutes with a reciprocating saw did the trick.
View attachment 1


----------



## daschmetterling (Nov 5, 2015)

For a new transom, we were thinking laminating 2 pieces of 3/4" ACX plywood and priming it with an oil based primer (then painting it to match whatever color we decide on). 
Thoughts or suggestions? Thanks in advance!


----------



## bonz_d (Nov 5, 2015)

ACX will work just fine as I have used it on a few transoms myself over the years. I've also been laminating them together using Tite-bond 3 and so far haven't had a failure of the joint.

As for sealing the plywood a member on another forum recommended this and I've been using on everything ever since.

1 part mineral spirits, 1 part boiled linseed oil and 2 parts spar urethane. Apply it until it start to pool then remove excess. Allow to dry for 48hrs and then apply 2 or 3 coats of straight spar. It will feel dry after a few hours but it really needs the extra time because of the linseed oil. You can also paint over it if you don't want to use the spar finish.

I just finished doing this to the transom that I'm replacing in my Sea Nymph and also used it to seal the plywood in the decking..


----------



## daschmetterling (Nov 6, 2015)

bonz_d said:


> ACX will work just fine as I have used it on a few transoms myself over the years. I've also been laminating them together using Tite-bond 3 and so far haven't had a failure of the joint.
> 
> As for sealing the plywood a member on another forum recommended this and I've been using on everything ever since.
> 
> ...


Great tips- thank you!


----------



## daschmetterling (Nov 6, 2015)

As far as glue I was thinking about tite bond 3, or Gorilla (polyurethane) glue.


----------



## daschmetterling (Nov 6, 2015)

I went with ACX and Tite bond 3 for the transom. I'm clamping it up now, and once we get that back into the boat, the next step is prepping the hull for paint.


----------



## bonz_d (Nov 7, 2015)

Boy does that look familiar! I kept mine clamped for 50hrs. Which it really didn't feel like it because I had other things I was working on at the same time and it still isn't in.

Did you decide on how you are going to seal it?


----------



## daschmetterling (Nov 7, 2015)

bonz_d said:


> Boy does that look familiar! I kept mine clamped for 50hrs. Which it really didn't feel like it because I had other things I was working on at the same time and it still isn't in.
> 
> Did you decide on how you are going to seal it?


Not yet, but we are really considering your recipe! It all depends on what we have on hand- this will (hopefully) be the only piece of wood on the boat.


----------



## bonz_d (Nov 8, 2015)

The mineral spirits and linseed oil are fairly inexpensive and the spar can be bought by the pint can.

What really makes this work is the linseed oil while the mineral spirits thins down the Spar and allows it all to penetrate the wood pores. Once dried it can be painted or covered with Spar urethane.









These are pictures of the plywood that was done and put in my Sean Nymph about 4 months ago. As a test I left them out in the weather, uncovered, in the rain and sun. I realize that this is just a short time frame but as I hope you can see there has been no change to the finish or water intrusion. Though you can see tat the top side of the ply is dirty from wear and walking on it.


----------



## daschmetterling (Nov 8, 2015)

bonz_d said:


> The mineral spirits and linseed oil are fairly inexpensive and the spar can be bought by the pint can.
> 
> What really makes this work is the linseed oil while the mineral spirits thins down the Spar and allows it all to penetrate the wood pores. Once dried it can be painted or covered with Spar urethane.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info! I can see how the mineral spirits and linseed oil would penetrate the wood- good point. I have been reading about a lot of people using epoxy resin. Any thoughts on that as an alternative?


----------



## bonz_d (Nov 8, 2015)

epoxy resin is about the best way but it is also the most costly. In order for epoxy to really be used to it's full potential the plywood should be fitted 1st and all holes predrilled. This method is what all the glasser guys use.

I don't use it because there is no retailer close by that I can get it and it also has to be shipped as a haz-mat material which also greatly adds to the cost. Were the 3 parts in the formula can be purchased at any hardware store.

If epoxy is the way you decide to go that is the best way to go but again is also the most costly.

I also understand your thought about keeping wood out of the boat as best you can. When I build internal structures or supports I use aluminum angle. It's lighter and stronger than wood and does not rot.

Any new progress?


----------



## daschmetterling (Nov 8, 2015)

bonz_d said:


> epoxy resin is about the best way but it is also the most costly. In order for epoxy to really be used to it's full potential the plywood should be fitted 1st and all holes predrilled. This method is what all the glasser guys use.
> 
> I don't use it because there is no retailer close by that I can get it and it also has to be shipped as a haz-mat material which also greatly adds to the cost. Were the 3 parts in the formula can be purchased at any hardware store.
> 
> ...


Great advice- thank you. I think I am in the same situation with a dealer for the epoxy resin. I will probably go with your recipe, it makes a lot of sense. I was planning on dry fitting it and predrilling all the through holes first, and then applying the sealant. 
No real progress, just cut the transom to shape- i'll dry fit it, pre drill and seal it this week. 
Thanks for all your help!


----------



## daschmetterling (Nov 8, 2015)

Bonz_d-
I just primed the transom using your recipe. I applied it continuously, making sure to apply a lot to the end grain, until it seemed to be saturated, then waited 15 minutes and applied some more. I then let it dry for an hour or so an wiped off the excess.
I was really impressed by how much soaked in, and have to think a lot penetrated the wood deeply. 
I'll wait a few days and apply a couple of coats of straight spar as you suggested. Thanks again for the tip!


----------



## bonz_d (Nov 9, 2015)

I think you will like the results. I know I do.

The piece that I pictured above, that was a piece of ply that was left over from another project and that sheet had been sitting in the garage for almost 5 years. It was so dry that I used almost a whole qt. of this formula to do it. It soaked up that much!

I just picked up another qt. of spar today to finish sealing my transom ply and the 2 small pcs. that cover the side flotation boxes. Hope to get out tomorrow and finish those up.

So let me know what you think after you've finished it up.


----------



## bonz_d (Nov 9, 2015)

I think you will like the results. I know I do.

The piece that I pictured above, that was a piece of ply that was left over from another project and that sheet had been sitting in the garage for almost 5 years. It was so dry that I used almost a whole qt. of this formula to do it. It soaked up that much!

I just picked up another qt. of spar today to finish sealing my transom ply and the 2 small pcs. that cover the side flotation boxes. Hope to get out tomorrow and finish those up.

So let me know what you think after you've finished it up.


----------



## lckstckn2smknbrls (Nov 9, 2015)

Epoxy shouldn't be Haz-mat, Polyester resin is Haz-mat.


----------



## bonz_d (Nov 9, 2015)

lckstckn2smknbrls said:


> Epoxy shouldn't be Haz-mat, Polyester resin is Haz-mat.




Either way it adds to the cost which I understand to some isn't a big deal and isn't even a consideration. Guess I just like the fact that I can get all ingredients just 10min. away at the local hardware store and supporting our town's economy helps. 

In no way am I stating that this formula is a better solution than epoxy but from my experience I haven't found anything better for the cost.

Even epoxy encapsulated wood can be compromised and once it is it retains water more so than a varnished finish.


----------



## daschmetterling (Dec 21, 2015)

Trailer work...
Finally got some time to get back to the boat project. The transom is back in place and it should last another 40 years or so!
We took the boat off the trailer to prep the hull for paint, and noticed how crooked the trailer was. 

It looked like the trailer was out of square, but after some measurements, it turned out the springs didn't match!









We replaced the springs with matching ones, removed the old bunks and rollers and replaced them with new bunks.






Then, I added fenders and steps 











Next after priming and painting, I'll cover the steps with aluminum diamond plate.
The steps will also house the brake lights to protect them from when we hit stuff!

Soon, we will start working on the boat!

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## daschmetterling (Dec 25, 2015)

A cpuple of photos of the completed steps with aluminum diamond plate. We are hoping to get it dirty soon- the bright aluminum is a little to fancy for a catfish boat!

Speaking of the boat, we cleaned and primered the hull. Ready for paint, well, the outside of the hull anyway.
View attachment 1


Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk


----------



## daschmetterling (Jan 9, 2016)

We installed sealed, submersible, led lights on the trailer, and began working on the inside of the boat.

View attachment 1

We prepped the inside of the hull for paint by getting rid of old carpet adhesive (the tan or yellow looking stuff below) as well as layers of old green paint. 
View attachment 2

View attachment 3

We tried using Goof Off on the carpet adhesive by applying it, waiting a few minutes to an hour, and then scraping with a putty knife or wire brush. It really didn't work. So we used grinders and wire wheels and it made quick work of it.
View attachment 4

We cleaned it up and got a coat of primer on all the aluminum. Next up paint, and then the real work of the build will begin.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## daschmetterling (Jan 9, 2016)

daschmetterling said:


> We installed sealed, submersible, led lights on the trailer, and began working on the inside of the boat.
> 
> View attachment 1
> 
> ...


As usual, the photos are in reverse order, but I bet everyone can figure it out.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## daschmetterling (Jan 17, 2016)

We made some progress on painting the hull and started fitting some aluminum angle for the floor framing
View attachment 1

View attachment 2


Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## fool4fish1226 (Jan 18, 2016)

Coming along nicely :beer:


----------



## daschmetterling (Jan 18, 2016)

fool4fish1226 said:


> Coming along nicely [emoji481]


Thank you!

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk


----------



## njtrouttracker (Jan 19, 2016)

Wow, I have the same boat. Just picked it up this past spring and used it all summer. I'm planning to re do it when the weather warms up so I'm super stoked to have found your thread. I'll post pics of mine when I get a chance!


----------



## daschmetterling (Jan 19, 2016)

njtrouttracker said:


> Wow, I have the same boat. Just picked it up this past spring and used it all summer. I'm planning to re do it when the weather warms up so I'm super stoked to have found your thread. I'll post pics of mine when I get a chance!


Yes, post some pictures- I'd love to see your boat. Obviously we just have a hull, but I would really like to see how yours is set up and what works, and what you will improve. Thanks for posting!

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## njtrouttracker (Jan 19, 2016)

So I haven't really taken many pictures showing the full layout but here's what I have right now. The boat is set up with a 6 hp Johnson outboard that I'll be upgrading. I use it on a lake that has a 9.9 limit but I also want to go out on the Delaware River so I'll also want to have a 25+ hp for that. It appears that these boats had a console at one time but when I bought mine that had been stripped and it was converted to a tiller steer. It has a basic carpeted wood deck with storage at the bow and and a bench seat with storage. It was stripped of all its electronics when I got it so I installed a switch panel and a battery, wired the lights, installed a new stern light (modified from Walmart to fit in the existing mount) USB/12v charger, fish finder, trolling motor and bought some new seats. The boat came with seat mounts already configured in the deck. Not sure of the new layout but I'll be reconfiguring the deck with new storage, installing vinyl, and replacing the rotted transom. 

It's not much to look at right now but we had a blast on it over the summer camping and fishing. I can't wait to fix it up.


----------



## daschmetterling (Jan 19, 2016)

Great pictues- thanks for posting them! It looks like the floor (at least in the bow portion is at the same height as where we are going to set it. I look forward to seeing how you modify it, and hopefully we can help with our build.

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk


----------



## daschmetterling (Feb 27, 2016)

It's been a little while since I've posted anything, but we have slowly been making progress. 
We framed the flooring using 1 1/4" x 1/8" aluminum angle. 
View attachment 1

And although we planned on using pour foam, we ended up just going with rigid insulation. The price was about the same, and we could just get the rigid insulation locally. Plus it seemed like it would be easier to work with. In retrospect, I don't know if it saved any time.
View attachment 2
View attachment 3

We are keeping a channel down the center open to run wires through conduit, and to run the steering cables.
The next step is to make a floor template and order the aluminum sheet. After a lot of research and debate, we are going with 0.10 aluminum tread plate (diamond plate).

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## daschmetterling (Mar 7, 2016)

We made some progress this weekend- we finished adding flotation, finalized the center console location and installed the floor.

View attachment 1

View attachment 2

View attachment 3

After a lot of research and debate, we went with 0.100 aluminum floor plate (diamond plate) for the flooring. Although it is a little more expensive than aluminum sheet, with the texture already there, we wouldn't have to add traction. Our goal for this boat is something that is durable and easily maintained. Hopefully though the aluminum will get scuffed and dirty! After riveting the floor about every 8" it feels really solid.
The 0.100 flooring does flex a little if you stand between the joists, but not enough to feel spongy. I think this is a good compromise in thickness/ weight.
Next up- install the center console, build the front deck (we haven't figured that part out yet), and maybe start rigging and wiring the motor.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## shockr (Mar 9, 2016)

Nice to see other BLUEFINS getting restored. I have a 16' DREAMCATCHER I rescued a few years back from the scrap heap. Bought it for $700.00 with a piece of junk trailer & DOA FORCE 35 which I tried to revive. 

The first year I tore it down to the ribs & replaced the floor & returned to same configuration as when I purchase with a side console.
Since the FORCE was not savable & most of the waters I fish are electric only I jettisoned the FORCE (GOOD RIDDANCE). It has been replaced by a 10 HP tiller & I did away with the console & any unneeded weight...lite is right.

Over the next few years I made refinements to better suit my use & it is still a work in progress. This year I a added a front casting deck, moved the front trolling motor battery to the rear to offset the weight of the casting deck. I used an aluminum extension ladder to make a frame an used 3/4" hardwood plywood with 2 coats of deck sealant & two coats of SPAR urethane. This set allows me to have all of that area beneath the deck for storage & a place for my dog to get out of the sun. Plus I finally have a place to put the giant ass Musky net with tripping over it. It also fits the pedestal seat & post with room for a cooler too.

BLUEFINS may be slow & heavy but they are extremely strong & stable. A lot times when the water is rough & the wind blows I see other tinboats getting rocked out there but my baby is stable. 

I plan on adding a new post with more pictures detailing the trilogy of my BLUEFIN restoration once I am done.


----------



## shockr (Mar 9, 2016)

Duh, what good is a post without pictures.

Love what you are doing on your boat. Especially that aluminum floor...I would love to see your bending brake. nice touch the way that that you bent the side up to meet the contour of the floor to transition in the freeboard...very sweet. I did the same thing with wood on my boat. Some serious fabrication skills on this build of yours, nice job!


----------



## thatkidhugo (Mar 9, 2016)

Nice boat.

Is this the same BlueFin that built spectrum boats in the 80s/90s? I pick this up next month.


----------



## daschmetterling (Mar 11, 2016)

shockr said:


> Duh, what good is a post without pictures.
> 
> Love what you are doing on your boat. Especially that aluminum floor...I would love to see your bending brake. nice touch the way that that you bent the side up to meet the contour of the floor to transition in the freeboard...very sweet. I did the same thing with wood on my boat. Some serious fabrication skills on this build of yours, nice job!


Nice looking boat! I like what you have done with it. Great layout and finishes.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## daschmetterling (Mar 11, 2016)

shockr said:


> Nice to see other BLUEFINS getting restored. I have a 16' DREAMCATCHER I rescued a few years back from the scrap heap. Bought it for $700.00 with a piece of junk trailer & DOA FORCE 35 which I tried to revive.
> 
> The first year I tore it down to the ribs & replaced the floor & returned to same configuration as when I purchase with a side console.
> Since the FORCE was not savable & most of the waters I fish are electric only I jettisoned the FORCE (GOOD RIDDANCE). It has been replaced by a 10 HP tiller & I did away with the console & any unneeded weight...lite is right.
> ...


Good to know Bluefins are good and durable. I haven't been able to find out much about them. Thanks for the compliments- hopefully the build goes well and the boat works for us!

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## daschmetterling (Mar 11, 2016)

thatkidhugo said:


> Nice boat.
> 
> Is this the same BlueFin that built spectrum boats in the 80s/90s? I pick this up next month.


Thank you! Yes, I think it is the same company.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## daschmetterling (Mar 12, 2016)

The boat is starting to come together now, or at least it looks like it is. We still have a long way to go, but with the floor and center console installed now, it seems as though using the boat is not far off. This weekend our goal is to frame the front deck, maybe install the flooring on it, and maybe install the outboard. View attachment 1
View attachment 2
View attachment 3


Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------



## g0nef1sshn (Mar 12, 2016)

Nice work yall are doing. looks real similiar to my starcraft.


----------



## daschmetterling (Mar 19, 2016)

It finally seems like the boat is coming together. There is still a lot left to do before we get it on the water, but it is really taking shape. We put the motor on and rigged it up, and we finally got the bow sub floor framed and deck framed and decking installed.
View attachment 1

View attachment 2
View attachment 3
View attachment 4


We even made a skeg/ prop guard. We would really like a jet, but it is out of our price range, so hopefully between this and the power trim, we can run in some water we probably shouldn't be with a prop!
View attachment 5

This prop guard was from this guy's blog https://archeryrob.wordpress.com/2013/03/18/the-free-rock-guard/
We'll see how it all works.
Next up is wiring the switches, accessories, fuse panel and framing up the fuel tank, oil tank, and battery area.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


----------

