# my 1436 build



## chevyrulz (Mar 28, 2013)

Hull is a 1994 Alumacraft 1436, I'm modifying to make it more useful for duck hunting, oystering, shrimping, flounder gigging, & inshore fishing. I've learned a lot about what I've done by reading other people's mods on here.

I have just $850 invested in the hull, trailer, & engine thanks to craigslist & a buddy. 

here's the hull prior to modification:






my '92 Evinrude 30 longshaft with electric start + 3 sheets of 4'x4' 1/4" diamond plate: 





Since the motor is long shaft, I added a transom plate to raise the motor up 5.75" bringing the cavitation plate even with the bottom of the hull. I also built a switch panel in the rear bench to house the electric key start, lanyard kill switch, bilge pump switch, & nav/anchor light switch. I installed a floor in the cockpit area to keep from tripping over the ribs or standing in water during heavy rain. All of the framing & decking was done using 1/8" aluminum angle and 1/4" diamond plate. The sides of the gunbox are 1/4" oak plywood sealed with oil based polyurethane (not exposed to sunlight so it will last plenty long enough for me, spar varnish/urethane would've been better....), and the floor is supported on the ends with 1" pine boards sealed with roll-on bedliner from Lowe's. Once I finish this entire project, I'll post up a final material list including costs.

here's the rear floor before & after:

















this is the front deck during the build:








thank you to tinboats for the cardboard floor template method:
















deck completed, jack plate installed, & motor mounted:
















[strike]these are the only tools I used[/strike] correction, i used a jig saw too:







updates to follow


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## nick4203 (Mar 28, 2013)

lookin good that motor should do alot better then that heavy 4 stroke


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## chevyrulz (Apr 2, 2013)

thanks nick

latches & handles all mounted on the hatch doors, then i added guide posts to the trailer for $25, hoping to mount the motor soon so i can tidy up the electrical then paint her camo. if you're wondering, the guide posts are 1.25" wide, 0.25" thick steel flat stock which cost $8 each from home depot. I bent the steel by hand in my bench vice, & they're surprisingly sturdy. I primed them before installation to inhibit corrosion. steel bolted to trailer frame with galvanized 5/16" bolts & lock washers, & capped with 1.25" PVC. these are great to keep the hull centered over the trailer bunks when you pull the truck & boat up a ramp with strong current. enough yapping, here's more pictures:

guide posts

















battery hatch








I love these slam latches, slam it shut & it stays that way, even in rough water, & just pull to open:














deck & locking gunbox

























this monstrosity is the aluminum transom plate / jack plate which has yet to be cut down to fit width wise:
















i'm not really wanting to attack that thing w/ my side grinder, so i'm waiting until my buddy can get me on the ban saw @ his work. after i cut it to width, it will slide down over the transom with about 7" sticking up past the current transom height, which along w/ the slant of the transom, should give me the 5-6" extra height i need for the cavitation plate to be parallel with bottom of hull.


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## chevyrulz (Apr 9, 2013)

i attacked it with my angle grinder, came out great!

transom plate installed, engine mounted, switch panel 75% finished, just a couple more wires to hook up. still to come, extending my trailer tongue, mounting anchor light, and camo!






























i'll get some better pictures up soon


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## chevyrulz (Apr 10, 2013)

revised the original post with better pictures, here's some more:


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## chevyrulz (Apr 15, 2013)

she took her maiden voyage this past saturday, runs great! i lucked out on my jack plate height guestimation, the boat handles turns like it's on rails, not slipping & sliding through the turns @ speed like most other 1436's i've driven. the holeshot is amazing w/ this 30hp 2 stroke on such a lightweight hull. I thought for sure it would sit lower out back w/ that big ole motor, but it sits just right. when i abruptly let off the throttle, no water comes over the transom, or even comes close to coming over. the angle of attack going through rough water is perfect. i was able to keep it pinned full throttle going through knee high swells across open water. i made sure to beat her up a little bit so I know what she can take come duck season. I was honestly surprised that my hatches stayed shut i gave it such a beating. Lord knows i don't wanna break her @ 4am out in the middle of nowhere. next step is to paint her camo. i have begun prep by scuffing up the aluminum deck w/ a wire brush on my drill, so i can roll the deck w/ bed liner. then i'll hit any bare spots w/ self etching primer, paint the whole boat brown, then hit it w/ my stencils using green for the old school camo stencil, black for the tree bark outline stencil, and tan for the marsh grass stencil. i'm using redleg camo's "fowl grass 3" pattern. they recommend using sherwin williams oil base, but i'm going rattle can via krylon fusion camoflage from oreilly auto parts. here's the only pic i managed to get over the weekend, i'll get some more up here soon showing how it sits in the water:


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## chevyrulz (Apr 29, 2013)

mounted my 4 cleats, & painting has begun. here she is after sanding, cleaning, & a light coat of self etching primer:






























next will be to spray the entire hull & motor tan, then the 1st of 3 stencils. 1st will be the "old school" camo stencil sprayed brown. 2nd will be the "tree bark" stencil sprayed black. stopping there creates a "bottomland" pattern, like the one made by mossy oak, which is great for flooded timber, but too dark for marsh hunts so I'll be going over that w/ the 3rd stencil which is the "marsh grass" stencil sprayed in the same tan as the base coat. 

i also ordered a folding tongue coupler, 4 flush mounted vertical rod holders, and a boat cover.

landed the 1st fish on the boat this past weekend, a spotted sea trout, didn't have a ruler so i threw him back, prolly a 12" fish, i need to mount a ruler on the bottom of the gunbox door!


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## Succotash (May 1, 2013)

I've never seen a transom extension like that before, but I bet that thing flies! You should do a speed check after you finish painting.


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## chevyrulz (May 1, 2013)

it's definitely fast! i haven't GPS'd it yet, but i'm guessing 35+ 

i opted for the sleeve instead of a jack plate mostly because it was available cheap ($50). 

I'll post up the GPS speed here once I'm able to test it


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## chevyrulz (May 3, 2013)

no GPS speed yet, but camo has begun, i practiced on the deck, & i think it's too busy. i'm gonna redo it w/ less stencil density. it looks great up close, but the overall color appears too dark when viewed @ a distance making it hard to see the detail which makes it look all one color & that's bad for breaking up the outline of the boat as far as actually hiding the boat for a duck hunt.


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## TxTightLiner (May 6, 2013)

Thats a good looking rig you have there.
Nice job on the deck!
Where did you get the sleeve for your transom?


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## chevyrulz (May 6, 2013)

thanks Tx! the transom sleeve was custom fabricated for a different type of boat (a High Tide BugBuster). the guy never ended up using it & my buddy saw it laying around & was able to snag it up for me


here's my estimated costs for the project:

$500 - 1436 Alumacraft jon boat hull (craigslist)
$250 - minty fresh, used galvanized trailer (craigslist)
$100 - 30hp Evinrude 2-stroke tiller handle outboard motor (traded on craigslist)
$88 - 53' of 1/8" aluminum angle (onlinemetals.com)
$75 - (3) sheets of 4x4', 1/4" aluminum diamond plate (craigslist)
$140 - Krylon Fusion camo spray paint (auto parts stores)
$38 - Rustoleum roll-on truck bed liner (lowes)
$65 - Everstart marine battery (wal-mart)
$75 - 4ga & 16ga wire & various electrical connectors (lowes, home depot, radio shack, & west marine)
$10 - (1) on/off switch & (1) on/off/on switch (lowes)
$5 - toggle switch boots (amazon.com)
$34 - navigational lights (amazon.com)
~$200 - hardware / fittings / fasteners / etc... - boxes of 3/6" rivets, (4) 6" cleats, stainless piano hinges, handles, latches, bilge plumbing, 5200 adhesive... (amazon.com, home depot / lowes, & boat dealership)
$14 - 4x8', 1/4" oak plywood (lowes)
$40 - camo stencils (redlegcamo.com)
$25 - folding trailer jack (harbor freight tools)
$77 - Fulton folding 2x3 trailer tongue hinge (ebay.com)
$20 - 32" galvanized tongue extension (trailer repair shop)
$30 - Attwood 500gph bilge pump (wal-mart)
$30 - homemade trailer guide posts (home depot)
$50 - Classic Accessories 12-14' jon boat cover (wal-mart)
$18 - Avery camo motor cover (ebay.com)
$25 - (4) flush mount, vertical rod holders (ebay.com)
~$100 - tools - pop rivet gun, cut off wheels for angle grinder, jig saw blades, drill bits, hole saws, etc...

Grand Total = just over $2,000


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## TxTightLiner (May 7, 2013)

2000.00 for a setup like that is hard to beat.
I would love to find a 30hp for 100 bucks.lol
What's the story on that?
My 1436 moves around nicely with my 15hp , I can only imagine how quick that thing is!


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## chevyrulz (May 7, 2013)

A buddy sold me his '94 honda 35hp for $500, I traded the Honda for the Evinrude & $400, so it only cost me $100 :mrgreen: 

I installed 2 flush, vertical rod holders in the front deck, & the Fulton folding tongue hinge coupler on the trailer. The 2x3 galvanized tongue extension is 32" long, it's actually a stock part from an Easy Loader roller trailer, it's the bar that the roller hardware mounts onto. local trailer shop had 1 laying around, & gave it to me for $20. Honestly, I didn't care anything about the folding hinge feature, I just needed to extend my tongue because my trailer was too small for my hull. it is still about 6" too short, but that's no big deal. i could even put longer bunks on it, if i cared.


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## chevyrulz (May 9, 2013)

GPS @ 31 mph

but the whale tale hasn't yet been re-installed because of painting, I'm hoping to gain 1 or 2 mph from the stern lift provided by the whale tale so I'll update once I'm able to GPS again.


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## FishingBuds (May 9, 2013)

Thats an awesome job!

appreciate the cost analyse!


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## chevyrulz (May 21, 2013)

thank you

i had a lot of fun with this build

anyone feel free to respond with questions or comments


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## panFried (Jul 13, 2013)

Chevy, you did a great job. Camo looks great on the diamond plate! When I first started reading this post I thought you were going to be blinded by plating, hence the sunglasses on your maiden voyage. 

Thanks for the ideas for decking as I begin my templating. I have a 1636 Lowe with 15" transom, and I'm still toying with the idea of a deck from from first bench to bow or second bench to bow. Any thoughts, I know yours is 14' so your decision was easy.


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## Ranchero50 (Jul 13, 2013)

That turned out well, any shots from a distance in it's environment? The camo dose look really busy up close.


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## chevyrulz (Jul 15, 2013)

panFried said:


> I have a 1636 Lowe with 15" transom, and I'm still toying with the idea of a deck from from first bench to bow or second bench to bow. Any thoughts,


Thanks!

i love my huge deck & the storage underneath it. without a picture of yours it's difficult to give any sound advice. if you have 2 center benches, then i suggest cutting out the rear center bench & decking from the forward center bench to the bow. that will give you a big enough deck, & increase your floor space. you could then put in a gun box for storage on the port side of the newly larger floor.

if i didn't take mine over rough water, @ 4am, when it's freezing outside, while i'm wearing chest waders, then i'd have cut my center bench out, & made the front deck about 1/2 the length as the one i made.




Ranchero50 said:


> That turned out well, any shots from a distance in it's environment? The camo dose look really busy up close.


Thanks! I actually don't have any other pictures at this time. It looks dark & monotone from a distance. it's darker than i wanted, & it looks all one color because it's so busy. I have already cut up the stencils so when I redo it, the pattern is going to be less dense. And when I redo it, I'm using a less dark brown, more of a dark peanut butter type color than the chocolate brown i used initially. The new color, and use of less black bark should lighten things up considerably. I'll put up pictures for sure once the paintjob has been completed. i want it to blend into a marsh bank of grass, but also blend into a timber swamp of trees & brush. i mostly hunt marsh so i need light color overall, but the marsh has bushes & trees here or there on the bank so some dark won't hurt, & if i can mix it up just right, i should blend into both environments


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## chevyrulz (Jul 25, 2013)

these are not environment pictures, & I am still slacking on redoing the paint job so please excuse the practice camo in these pictures, but i finally made time to snap some shots of the finished mods, minus final paint scheme of course:

















& my homemade switch panel. electric choke/start on the key, kill switch lanyard for safety, top switch is for the nav & anchor lights, flipped up (or back from the driver's perspective) is the anchor light by itself, the middle is off for both the nav & anchor lights, & down is nav & anchor lights both on. the bottom switch is to turn on the 1200gph bilge pump







in the above picture, you can see that i sealed up the seam between the floor & the sides of the hull to keep trash from being trapped in that tiny crack. i then drilled 2 drain holes just in front of the rear bench. they're right over top of the outer 2 channels in the hull so if trash goes in the holes it can flow to the back to be cleaned out. they're also just smaller than a 12ga shotgun shell :wink: 


i reinforced the rear corner gussets with some 1/8" aluminum plate which was hammered to fit the not so flat surface, then 5200'd & pop rivet'd in place. the cleats are through bolted with stainless hardware, including large washers & nyloc nuts on the bottom. you can also see my bilge exit hiding on the side of the hull in that ugly camo paint job lol:





here's the battery hatch open & closed, notice the 12v outlets on that battery box top (1 on each side), comes in handy for sure. i can charge my phone, my q-beam, or hook up an inverter to run anything from a fan to a shop light or power tools, etc...:








here's the gun box open & closed:









& the front storage hatch open/closed:








soon to be camo'd motor:





this angle shows the foot step I added to the front, it's great for tossing the castnet and walking off the bow to the dock or shore, but it also hides the wires & provides a mounting surface for my nav light. it's not the most beautiful design since i cut it short on the width for an easy install, but hey it works great!





here's a few of everything covered up for storage while not in use:

























& what's under the cover for support to keep the trash & water out:
















Aside from paint, I still want to tidy up the area behind the rear bench. I have 1 sheet of diamond plate and about 1/2 a stick of angle leftover that I wanna use to make a rear deck. I also have 2 more flush mount rod holders to install in the back of the boat somewhere, either in the bench or in the yet-to-be-built rear deck. The only other thing I definitely know I'm doing is to build up a tiller handle extension from a piece of rubber hose, stainless hose clamps, & PVC. I like to be able to drive standing or seated


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## BigTerp (Jul 25, 2013)

I like what you did with this one. Good work!!

What are you planning to do with the new camo?


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## chevyrulz (Jul 25, 2013)

thanks man, i am gonna start from scratch on the paint by repainting the whole boat tan inside & out. then using a lighter colored brown, hit it with the camo template 1st. then go over that with the bark stencil in black, but not hit 100% of the boat, only about 60%. then go over that with the marsh grass in green, but not 100%, only about 30%. so overall the boat will be tan & brown, with areas of bark & grass.


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## panFried (Jul 25, 2013)

I like the PVC hoops for the cover. When I get to that point of getting a cover for mine, I am going to borrow the design. Keep up the good work!


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## BigTerp (Jul 25, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=323604#p323604 said:


> chevyrulz » 53 minutes ago[/url]"]thanks man, i am gonna start from scratch on the paint by repainting the whole boat tan inside & out. then using a lighter colored brown, hit it with the camo template 1st. then go over that with the bark stencil in black, but not hit 100% of the boat, only about 60%. then go over that with the marsh grass in green, but not 100%, only about 30%. so overall the boat will be tan & brown, with areas of bark & grass.



Sounds like a plan. How did you keep from "overspraying" your stencils?

I'm using these stencils.

https://www.camostencil.com/Ambush-GroundCover.html


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## marshman (Jul 25, 2013)

i like your rig... i know youre stoked about it...

but not to be a debbie downer, you need more trailer under your boat...your transom needs to be sitting on bunks...weight of motor trailering over time will cause a hook in the bottom, and crack welds on the top corner braces at the gunnel rails.... 

and the transom riser just straight up scares me looking at it...


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## chevyrulz (Jul 26, 2013)

'preciate it panFried!



[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=323613#p323613 said:


> BigTerp » Yesterday, 15:30[/url]"]How did you keep from "overspraying" your stencils?


actually i didn't, lol. the overspray was definitely a problem. that's one reason it's so dark, the black bark especially left a lot of black overspray. by the time i sprayed, dark brown, then black, then green stencils, there's a lot of overspray on my tan base coat. when i "cut up" my stencil, what i did was cut a small section of the pattern from the main big sheet. & then add masking tape border to it about 4" so that the pattern is surrounded by like 4" to reduce overspray when i go to redo the paint job. what i want, is perfect computer printed looking camo, but i realize that's not going to be possible with my level of patience. so, what i am going to do, is just take more time when i redo it & try to get it as close to perfect as a can. the big flat areas are easy, but the smaller areas like corners or the front interior sides where it's only like 2" tall are tricky. the right way to do it, is to tape the stencil in place, spray it, & then let it dry enough to be able to move it over & repeat the process, but that would take literally days & days of work. the flatter the stencil is, the less "blurry" your pattern is from overspray. but i was also getting overspray on areas not even covered by the stencil, so ideally you need an exhaust fan to reduce that problem. it definitely helps if you have 2 friends to hold the stencils. what i learned is that you don't have to stencil the whole boat to make a great looking paintjob, in fact, it looks better if you don't. you need to let that base coat show through, so just put the stencils where you can get them flat & spray them nice & even & dark but don't let it run obviously. the finished product will look great.


marshman you're correct about the issues that will happen if your boat is not properly supported by the bunks. my trailer was too small for the boat until I extended my tongue. It still looks too small because the end of the frame is so far from the transom, but I'm confident that it's just big enough. i want to put larger wheels/tires on it too, but just for looks, lol. you can kinda tell from the picture below, the bunks go almost all the way back to the transom except the last 4". ideally you want the bunks to stop 1-2" from the transom, but i'm not sweating 2":







i do have a "Frankenstein" sorta rig with my long-shaft motor & home-made jack plate. before i built this, i really worried that the boat would be extra tippy with that motor up so high compared to using a short-shaft motor, but it's actually not any more tippy than my buddies 1436 with a yamaha 30hp short-shaft, & he doesn't even have a deck. if i had the $, i'd have done a lot of things different, but for an $850 rig, i'm super stoked. it's kinda funny that i spent way more on my mods than i spent on the boat/motor/trailer, but i still feel like i could sell it for more than i have invested (not counting my time...)


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## marshman (Jul 26, 2013)

no...ideally, you want your transom sitting on bunks with these light gauge aluminum boats...but im sure youll be fine for a while...

be careful with the motor bounce on the highway...that does more damage to jonboats than anything..

i like to prop mine up on a transom saver and ratchet strap it tight to the trailer so when trailer bounces, everything is nice and tight...


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## chevyrulz (Jul 26, 2013)

i hear ya. i've always thought it looked silly when the bunks stick out past the transom, and if you look at any factory rig, the bunks stop at or before the transom (usually before it). i reckon that's that just proves form & function don't always go together. & i think the bunks sticking out wouldn't be the 1st thing someone thinks of as silly if they look at my rig, haha :mrgreen: 

I'll keep an eye on it. i've taken it over some really rough terrain over the past few months without any issues at all. these little alumacrafts are pretty tough with the knee brace & the weep channels despite their thin skin. it's always good to have extra insurance tho!


speaking of motor bounce, i have to use a dang bungee cord to keep my motor in the upright position while trailering. the little notches in the tilt slots on each side that hold the motor up are rounded off enough that a small bump causes it to release & slam down, even in the up-locked position. it's done it 3x, & not bowed out my hull or broken my lower unit somehow. a little tension from a strategically placed bungee though, keeps it secured even over the gnarliest potholes & other bumps (so far!). i'm probably gonna just raise my bunks up a tad higher so i can trailer around with the motor down since that's actually a little easier on the hull any way. also it's harder for rain to get into the cowling when the motor is down.


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## Colbyt (Jul 26, 2013)

Very nice work.


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## shaggs (Jul 27, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=323760#p323760 said:


> chevyrulz » 26 Jul 2013, 16:17[/url]"]i hear ya. i've always thought it looked silly when the bunks stick out past the transom, and if you look at any factory rig, the bunks stop at or before the transom (usually before it). i reckon that's that just proves form & function don't always go together. & i think the bunks sticking out wouldn't be the 1st thing someone thinks of as silly if they look at my rig, haha :mrgreen:
> 
> I'll keep an eye on it. i've taken it over some really rough terrain over the past few months without any issues at all. these little alumacrafts are pretty tough with the knee brace & the weep channels despite their thin skin. it's always good to have extra insurance tho!
> 
> ...



They have a product in the States there called Lock and Haul,seems like a reasonable solution to your problem
Over here we tend to support the motor from a fixed point on the trailer but that would not be possible with you set up 

Here's a pic I found of the lock and haul


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## chevyrulz (Jul 29, 2013)

thanks Colby!

Shaggs, I appreciate the info & pictures. I actually have seen that style motor support before & considered it, if my bungee ever fails me, I'll look into getting one :mrgreen: 

this past weekend, I swapped out the front V style bow stop that came on my trailer for a home-made one which fits my hull. cost $10, I had the 2x4 laying around, but the carpet & stainless hardware had to be purchased from lowes. I'll put a picture of it up here soon. I used 1.5" x 3/8" stainless bolts, nyloc nuts, & washers, 1 linear foot of black outdoor carpet, & about a 1' of treated 2x4. the tabs that held the old V style bow stop just needed to be finessed a little to work as a mount. i put a crescent wrench on the tabs & bent each one 90 degrees to the outside to make mounting tabs for my flat bow stop. on the 2x4, i used a 7/8" paddle bit to countersink the bolt heads so they don't hit the hull. it's rock solid, when it moves, it's the winch post flexing & not the 2x4 lol


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## nick4203 (Oct 9, 2013)

haven't been on in awhile since your initial post looks good tho!


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## chevyrulz (Dec 18, 2013)

Thanks Nick

I've been loving this boat during duck season, Here's some more pictures of the build after painting & a few dead ducks:


























































































Y'all feel free to holler if you would like any details or better pictures of anything shown. Thanks for looking!


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## Gators5220 (Dec 18, 2013)

Man good job on your boat bud, and the truck load full of ducks! Nice job, real clean too!


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## BigTerp (Dec 20, 2013)

Nice work man!!! Turned out real nice. I see you have what looks like a few shovelers in the truck. Where are you at? It's pretty rare for us to see them down my way. 

What did you put around your gas tank? I usually just throw the decoy bag over it when we get set up. Something more permananet would be nice.


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## chevyrulz (Dec 23, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=336798#p336798 said:


> Gators5220 » 18 Dec 2013, 20:24[/url]"]Man good job on your boat bud, and the truck load full of ducks! Nice job, real clean too!


Thank you!




[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=336915#p336915 said:


> BigTerp » 20 Dec 2013, 16:49[/url]"]Nice work man!!! Turned out real nice. I see you have what looks like a few shovelers in the truck. Where are you at? It's pretty rare for us to see them down my way.


Preciate it Terp, check your PMs for location, & yes those are shovelers, along with mallards, green winged teal, & a merganser. For the record, I didn't shoot the merganser, haha 




[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=336915#p336915 said:


> BigTerp » 20 Dec 2013, 16:49[/url]"]
> What did you put around your gas tank? I usually just throw the decoy bag over it when we get set up. Something more permananet would be nice.


I've also used the decoy bag to cover the gas tank. the camo gas tank cover in the above pictures is just an Avery outboard motor cover that ripped on me, so I repurposed it to camo out my neon red gas tank. MudBuddy and GoDevil websites sell an actual camo 6 gallon boat gas tank cover for like $30-40:

https://www.godevil.com/Hunting_Boat_Options.html

https://www.mudbuddy.com/Store specifications sheets/Fuel Tank Spec.html


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## bigwave (Dec 23, 2013)

Awesome job Chevy, if your like me you would probably be looking for the next deal of the century to go crazy with money on something that makes you happy. Nice quackers by the way. =D> =D>


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## chevyrulz (Dec 26, 2013)

Thanks big, I sure wish I could afford to buy another hull, motor, & trailer so I can do it all over again!

Here's a few environment pictures, I'll try to take a few more as the season goes on:
















also, this is what I started with before trades & mods:


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## RStewart (Dec 26, 2013)

I thought you said there was a boat in those pics. I can't find it. Lol. Great job. Looks really good. Did you ever get a speed by gps?


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## chevyrulz (Dec 27, 2013)

haha thanks R, the best I've seen on GPS speed is 32mph


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## chevyrulz (Mar 4, 2014)

Sold it for $2,800 on Craigslist

hope to build another soon, this time using an all welded Weldbuilt 1552 with a yamaha 40 tiller


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## BigTerp (Mar 25, 2014)

Looking forward to see what you plan to do with the new one!! 1552 is a nice size. I like my 1648, but at times I wish it was a bit wider. 4" or 6" would make a huge difference.


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## fsupeej22 (Feb 3, 2015)

Hey Chevy, I just got a new Tracker 1436 and am looking to do a deck similar to yours from the middle bench to the front. I'm coming from a 14 ft semi-v jon, so I'm no stranger to an unstable boat, but I wanted to get your thoughts on stability with this set up. I use my boat for bass fishing during the summer and duck hunting during the winter. I usually don't have more than 2 people and possibly my GSP dog in the boat. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.


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## chevyrulz (Feb 8, 2015)

my 1436 it was no more tippy on the front deck than standing on the original middle or front benches. i used all aluminum framing & flooring to reduce weight & promote stability. a bass seat would do right nicely on the front of a 1436 decked like mine.


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## fsupeej22 (Feb 9, 2015)

chevyrulz said:


> my 1436 it was no more tippy on the front deck than standing on the original middle or front benches. i used all aluminum framing & flooring to reduce weight & promote stability. a bass seat would do right nicely on the front of a 1436 decked like mine.



Thanks, Chevy. I plan on having a pedestal seat up front to use as something to lean on, but don't want it to feel like I'm trying to balance a log on the water. Sounds like it should be fine.


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