# 1984 Pike Attacker rebuild



## bonz_d (Sep 11, 2015)

Picked this boat up a few months ago thinking it would be a quick project to get back on the water while I completely rebuild a 1988 Alumacraft Classic 16. It was just a bare hull and trailer that someone had already started to strip out to rebuild. This is a short shaft transom that had a Mini Jacker already on it for a long shaft engine. So again I assumed it wouldn't take much to get it on the water. Wrong!!!

Found a very nice 1994 Johnson 30hp and put it on, ready to go. Not! Even with the Jacker on it the engine was too low in the water and was throwing up a huge spray from the lower unit. Tried raising the plate and it helped but did not eliminate it all. So I took off the Jacker and built a plate. Took 22" to get the Cav plate even with the bottom of the boat and it was still throwing spray. So now I suspected that the flotation foam was soaked and weighing the boat down too much.

After all this I decided the season was done and I would tear into it. Opened up the compartments were the foam is and started ripping it out. Got towards the bottom and sure enough wet foam. From the bottom up into the foam about 3". Got that all out and then started to tear into the transom to repair and rebuild that. Which is where I'm at today.

Here are some pictures for you all.

What it looked like when I got it.







With a new deck and on the water.




The home made plate.




Foam and transom out.


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## bonz_d (Sep 14, 2015)

Finally got a break in the weather and got back to it. So far I've got the plywood cut, glued and rough fitted. Then was able to use a salvaged pcs. of stainless to close up the transom so at least it will look nicer. Got that cut up and rough fitted today as well. Tomorrow I hope to start drilling holes and finish up fitting everything.








Thanks for looking!


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## Ictalurus (Sep 15, 2015)

=D> =D> 

That's a nice looking setup, how big is the boat?


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## bonz_d (Sep 15, 2015)

It's 14'4" and rated at 35hp. Don't recall the beam off hand but it's a pretty stable boat for it's size.


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## DaleH (Sep 15, 2015)

May be too late ... but you really should do something to insulate the SS from the aluminum. Hopefully you're not using it in saltwater, which would greatly accelerate the galvanic corrosion. 

A good, thick paint product like POR-15 or Steel-Flex and using adhesive-lined heatshrink on bolt bodies with nylon washers under the bolt heads & nuts would do the trick for you, i.e., insulate the 2 dissimilar materials from each other, thereby breaking the electrolytic connection.


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## bonz_d (Sep 15, 2015)

Thanks for the tip. As of right now I'm still fitting everything, all will be painted under the stainless and using nyloc nuts on all fasteners.

As for use, the closest salt water is over 1000 miles away, hehe :LOL2: . Closest big water is Lake Michigan.

Again this was supposed to be a quick easy project to tide me over until I finish my Alumacraft Classic 16 but has now turned into another rebuild. Sure haven't gotten much fishing in this year. Original plan was to use this for the season, finish other boat then start on this one and do the rebuild and mods.


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## bonz_d (Sep 18, 2015)

Well I've finally have gotten everything rough fitted and the engine back on so before I proceed any further I'm going to try and give it a test run today to see if I've gotten the transom height right and if it has cured the spray issue I am getting from the lower unit. I will post up results when I'm back!


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## bonz_d (Sep 18, 2015)

The test went very well. Transom is as solid as a rock and the spray issue has improved though not completely gone. I believe I'll leave the transom as-is and now try with some different sized shims to see if I can improve it more.

On to the next phase. Will now strip it all down, finish up the transom and then start cleaning it up for paint.


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## bonz_d (Sep 22, 2015)

Had it out on the water again the other day this time adding a 1/4" shim under the engine, really didn't see any change in the spray or the performance other than when the engine was trimmed up to the second hole I was starting to get a little bit of prop blowout at WOT. Moved down to the 1st hole and it went away.

So I guess I'm going to leave it as-is w/o the added shim and run it.

Today I've gotten it all stripped down and started washing it out. Tomorrow I'll go at it with the brushes and 3M pads with some strong detergent and hopefully get some paint on the interior this week while the weather is still nice.

I haven't tried it yet on an aluminum boat but have used this on plenty of trailers so I'll see how it turns out and how durable it is. Nice thing about it is it costs me nothing.


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## fool4fish1226 (Sep 23, 2015)

Looking good keep the pictures coming


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## bonz_d (Sep 23, 2015)

Thanks and you can sure bet I will keep the pictures coming.

Just talked to Tech support at Rustoleum and they tell me with proper prep this paint should work just fine on aluminum so I'm going to do a test panel today and will post results as soon as I know something. BTW will most likely be using a roll-roll method 1st.


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## bonz_d (Sep 23, 2015)

As promised. These are sort of test pieces for the Rustoleum DTM acrylic paint. as stated earlier I've used this paint on steel trailers with very positive results but have never tried it on aluminum. Rolled on pretty well with a foam roller yet still has a slight texture to it. Might be putting it on too thin? But it is the exact color that I wanted and is an almost exact match for the color of the Tempress seats I'll be using. Again I'm not certain how durable this paint will be on aluminum but I'm about to find out!



 
Starting point




Etching primer




2 coats


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## fool4fish1226 (Sep 24, 2015)

Looks ok to me a little texture never hurt anyone.


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## bonz_d (Sep 24, 2015)

Thanks, I'm thinking this stuff will work just fine on the interior. It's a semi gloss which also should be good as one wouldn't want it too shinny on the inside.

Now I'm thinking of trying to spray it to see if it comes out a little flatter though I've never sprayed a water based acrylic paint so I might have to play with it some to get it down.


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## bonz_d (Sep 24, 2015)

Well something didn't work with this paint. Went out this morning and it was full of little bubbles and the paint peeled right off in one big sheet. Even pulled most of the primer with it.


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## bonz_d (Sep 25, 2015)

So I'm working on this paint issue and would like to thank johnny for the help and suggestions =D> 

Today I went back to finish up some work on this transom and have gotten the plywood sealed on one side. To do this I use a recipe I learned from another fellow boater that goes like this.

Mix 1 part spar urethane, 1 part boiled linseed oil and 2 parts mineral spirits. Apply until it pools and then remove excess. Let dry 48hrs then apply multiple coats of straight spar. Coat heavy on ends and holes.

I have used this mix on a good number of transoms and the plywood for decking and it has help up very well and seals the plywood almost as good as epoxy at a much lower cost.


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## bonz_d (Oct 11, 2015)

After having a discussion here with johnny and this problem I think I've gotten the paint failure sorted out and today gave it another go. Was able to get most of the interior painted before it started getting late in the day and hope to finish up the 1st coat tomorrow before the next cold wave comes thru.

Doing this with a fine foam roller and have to say I've learned a little bit while doing this. Paint can and web site says it should cover with one coat but to me it still looks blotchy so now I'll wait to see how it looks with a second coat.

From what I see it looks as if it will have the right amount of sheen and texture for being on the interior without being too glossy.

Will try to get some pictures up tomorrow after I've finished.


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## bonz_d (Oct 15, 2015)

Sorry it's taken a little longer than I expected. Still have a few touch-ups to do. I like the color and the slight texture though today while looking at it in the sun there are a few spots that I can still see roller marks. Guess I have to work on my technic. Also still have the helm to paint also but I'm pleased with it so far.









Enjoy!!!


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## bonz_d (Oct 19, 2015)

Progress has been moving slowly as of late because the temps are up and down though I have brought the helm console and a couple other parts into the house and have gotten them painted. Looks like my technic is improving as well.

Will also report that so far there have been no mishaps and this time the paint seems to be adhering well. Still need to get back out there and finish up the transom work though I've been kind of putting it off because I think I'd like to paint the transom exterior before I finish it and attach that pcs of stainless. I think that it would look more finished if done that way and then I also wouldn't have to disassemble it all again to paint.

But thanks to everyone that is following this. Any suggestions please chime in!


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## bonz_d (Nov 4, 2015)

Finally got the Alumacraft out of the garage and the Pike moved in over the weekend. Had to vac. out all the leaves that have been falling and dry out a little water before moving on. 

Was able to get some more paint on it and started cutting and fitting the plywood for the covers that go over the side flotation boxes. Got the 1st one cut and fitted and used that as a pattern for the other side. It didn't work! The other side is approximately 3/4" smaller over half the length. I just figured they would be roughly the same dimensions for both sides. Oh well.

Plan for tomorrow is to get one more coat of paint on the bilge area in the stern, finish fitting the plywood and then sealing it with the sealer formula I've been using. Then moving on to finish up fitting and drilling the new transom wood and the SS cover that will close it up.

One observation I've made is that this paint I've been trying is taking forever to harden up. There are spots that it still scratches easily. Never noticed this while using it on steel trailers.

I'll try and post some more pictures tomorrow.


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## bonz_d (Nov 4, 2015)

As promised! 
Slowly coming along.


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## Bigwrench (Nov 8, 2015)

Man that looks great ! 
Enjoying your rebuild as our boats are made by the same company and the same year as well.


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## bonz_d (Nov 8, 2015)

Thanks bigwrench! I've been following your build as well.

The plywood you see on the bow is actually the plywood for the transom as I'm still working back there. Still have a few other things and mods I want to do to this before spring. 
Such as;
Add a live-well into the front bench seat which I've already sourced a poly tank that will fit.
Add a deck and seat mount forward of the front bench. Along with more flotation foam.
Raise the helm station and build lockable storage compartment under it. 
Rewire and add a fuse block which it never had.

Still debating whether I want to use foam board or pour foam to replace what was removed.

Lots to do still.


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## Bigwrench (Nov 8, 2015)

bonz_d said:


> Still debating whether I want to use foam board or pour foam to replace what was removed.


I also have this dilemma, I really would like to go back with the pour foam but confused on how I would make sure that the floor drains all the way to the back if water got in the boat (which is a given). Wiring I will run through PVC I think so that will be ok. Hopefully you get to your foam first so I can copy ya lol


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## bonz_d (Nov 8, 2015)

Bigwrench, not sure of your Bass Attacker but this Pike has an inherent drainage problem, as in no matter how high I raise the bow there is always water in the stern that will not drain. The bottom of the drain tube is about 1/2" above the bottom so there is always that much left and it covers the whole stern.

The water will run feely to the stern but pools there. It also seeps under the sides and into the flotation foam boxes on each side. So the bottom 3" of foam in there was saturated.

I'm trying to figure how I'm going to foam that area yet try and keep the foam off the bottom and out of the water.


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## bonz_d (Nov 11, 2015)

Still a long way to go with much still to be done.


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## bonz_d (Nov 11, 2015)

Still undecided as to which way to but this transom back together. Question, from the pictures which way looks best? Should I still put that small splash-well back in or leave it out? It's not adding much to the structure and doesn't cover the entire length of the transom now that I've raised the transom.


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## UncleTork (Nov 11, 2015)

Personally i would put the splash-well back on but after i painted the gap to match the interior but that's just me.


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## bonz_d (Nov 15, 2015)

Not much done these past few days as the temps have dropped and for now I have no heat in the garage. Spent yesterday putting plastic sheet up on the rafters to try and close in this building, eliminate some of the draftiness and just try to reduce the size of the area to heat.

While cleaning up the other day I did find a piece of cut-off 5/8" ply that will fit perfectly for a decking in the bow. I'll be doing this one the same way I had done a Lund S14 previously and that worked out very well. It is really a simple build using angle aluminum and a continuous length piano hinge. 

The hinge gets attached so that the plywood is flush with the very front bench seat, hinges forward and the deck is level but about 3" below the middle bench seat. This also adds some well needed storage space.

As always I will add pictures as progress allows.


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## vinnybagodonuts (Nov 16, 2015)

Nice work. 
I just finished removing about 300lbs of foam from my 1984 lowe. Much of it was saturated and some kind of reaction caused corrosion where it contacted the hull.


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## bonz_d (Nov 16, 2015)

vinnybagodonuts said:


> Nice work.
> I just finished removing about 300lbs of foam from my 1984 lowe. Much of it was saturated and some kind of reaction caused corrosion where it contacted the hull.



Post up some pictures if you can I'd love to see it.


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## daschmetterling (Nov 16, 2015)

bonz_d said:


> As promised!
> Slowly coming along.


That's looking great!

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


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## bonz_d (Nov 17, 2015)

Thanks for the compliment.

Things still going slowly, budget's a little tight ATM. Did spend another afternoon hanging plastic and hope to have that finished tomorrow. Then the test will begin as temps will be falling and I can then see how well it's going to hold heat. Then we'll see how cramped it gets once the snowblower is back on the tractor!

I can update on the DTM Latex paint. While working around the boat these past few days there have been a few occasions when I've dropped tools and things on it and it hasn't scratched. So it appears to be curing hard and I believe it will be just fine.. Again I'll keep updating this aspect as time goes on.


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## vinnybagodonuts (Nov 17, 2015)

bonz_d said:


> vinnybagodonuts said:
> 
> 
> > Nice work.
> ...


The foam on the bottom alone weighed 125lbs.
For some reason my pics always post upside down.


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## Fire1386 (Nov 17, 2015)

Reduce the size of your pics and they will show correctly. At least that is what I found to happen.....


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## bonz_d (Nov 18, 2015)

vinny that looks pretty nasty! Looks like there is no way to easily drain water from the bottom which is probably why you are seeing the waterlogged foam. The pitting and corrosion is also confusing. Was this a salt water boat? I haven't seen just wet foam cause a problem like this.

After you get all that foam out fill some water into it and tilt the bow up and watch if it runs back or is being dammed up and just sitting. At least that is what I'd do before moving on.

If you look back thru this thread you will see that this Sea Nymph has a drainage problem that is contained to the stern of the boat. I haven't decided how I'm going to address this issue yet though I do have a couple of ideas. I don't want to foam this only to have it reoccur and ruin the new foam.

Start a thread on your Lowe and I'll try to help as much as possible.


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## Va Larry (Nov 27, 2015)

Looks good, your doing quality work. 

I would leave the splash well out. It looks cleaner without it, and it is practically useless since you changed the transom.

I linked to your build from another where you recommended a wood treatment formula- 1 part mineral spirits, 1 part boiled linseed oil, and 2 parts spar, but on your thread you said you used 1 part spar urethane, 1 part boiled linseed oil and 2 parts mineral spirits. So would you restate your formula for those of us looking to pick up tips along the way. Thanks

Looking forward to your progress


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## bonz_d (Nov 28, 2015)

Thanks for the heads-up Va Larry, Will have to find that and correct it or ask a mod to do it. Do you recall where that post was?

The correct recipe is 1 part boiled linseed, 2 part mineral spirits and 1 part spar urethane. Followed by 2-3 coats of straight spar. 

I have used this formula on 4 different boats so far and the results have been outstanding. Now it's not as good as encapsulating in epoxy but it's a lot less costly. Also epoxy is not UV resistant so any exposed epoxy needs to be painted.


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## Va Larry (Nov 29, 2015)

Our project boat- 1977 Blue Fin Sea Hawk


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## bonz_d (Nov 29, 2015)

Va Larry said:


> Our project boat- 1977 Blue Fin Sea Hawk



Have you got a thread going? Would be interested in seeing your work.


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## Va Larry (Nov 29, 2015)

thread- yes, going- no
I got much of the of the framework, and a bunch of holes filled when I stopped working on it about this time last year. I'm about to start back up, and was just looking for some inspiration when I saw your wood formula and took a mental note.


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## BYOB Fishing (Dec 1, 2015)

Boat looks great. I like the combination of grey and the natural wood. Are you doing any carpet?


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## bonz_d (Dec 2, 2015)

Thanks for the comment.

Yes to the carpet. The finish on the decking is showing a lot of scratches from wear in that the ramp I use is gravel/sand mix and there is no pier to tie off to so in and out of the boat tracks in sand on feet. The spar finish isn't very durable under these conditions. That piece of plywood isn't that large and is easy enough to remove but I don't think I want to be pulling it every season to refinish it. So for now the plan is gray carpet. I have used the stuff from Cabela's in the past with very good results. Plus that's what the Admiral wants and of course the Admiral always gets what she wants, Then round-about I get what I want. More boats.  :lol: 

Progress has slowed due to temps and a broken heater, along with a trip to Min. for Thanksgiving to visit my son and his family but hopefully the heater will be fixed this weekend.


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## bonz_d (Dec 2, 2015)

Well I tried my best to use MS Paint to get an idea of what the 2 colors I'm thinking of using would look like.
The red is as close as I could get to Rustoleum Marine Bright Red and the blue as close to Flag Blue as I can.
Opinions on which would look best.


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## Fishfreek (Dec 2, 2015)

I have never owned a red boat other than a couple canoes. I did learn that red will fade very fast unless a good clear coat is applied ( like a car finish ) and the blue just looks classier. 



Just my .02


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## onthewater102 (Dec 2, 2015)

run a white pin stripe halfway down the side & do blue along the water line and red up by the gunwales ;-)


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## bonz_d (Dec 2, 2015)

Actually I've been searching the web for a nice vinyl graphic to put on the sides. Something along the lines of what Lund and Alumacraft are doing these days. Though I have thought of White and Orange stripes with a large Chicago Bears C on the stern. Though the Admiral thinks that would be a bit tacky.


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## onthewater102 (Dec 2, 2015)

a bit...

might make it harder to sell at some point if your tastes change.


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## bonz_d (Dec 2, 2015)

onthewater102 said:


> a bit...
> 
> might make it harder to sell at some point if your tastes change.



But from being down at the very southern part of Wisconsin it's always fun to rile the Packer fans. Who have been rather quiet as of late.


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