# What would it take to wire up lights



## CodyPomeroy (May 29, 2012)

I am contemplating putting lights on my boat. Currently I have the battery operated flashlight type, and already had one go dead on me. What would be the easiest way to install/wire lights on my boat. I have a trolling motor (with 50amp fuse), and fish finder (with 3amp fuse) attached directly to the battery. I don't fish at night much, usually I use lights when I go out just before sunrise and stay 'til just after sunset.


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## RivRunR (May 29, 2012)

Do you mean lights as in...
inside, courtesy / deck lighting, or
driving lights to see the water ahead?


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## jojo (May 29, 2012)

Assuming you are talking about navigation lights, not much can be said other than to make sure you use the proper size wire and fuses.

Might be able to give you more input if we knew your boat setup. Pic?


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## CodyPomeroy (May 30, 2012)

Sorry, Yes I was referring to the nav. lights (red/green in front and white in back). I don't want to get fancy with a fuse panel. Is it possible to just wire them up to a switch and hook directly to battery?


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## muskiemike12 (May 30, 2012)

You can wire it up with the low voltage wire they use for landscaping if you don't fish near saltwater. I have used it and it works fine. Plenty heavy also 12ga. wire. Run the wire through the gunnel to conseal it. You can just put alligator clips on the wire to attach to the battery.


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## RivRunR (May 31, 2012)

muskiemike12 said:


> You can wire it up with the low voltage wire they use for landscaping if you don't fish near saltwater. I have used it and it works fine. Plenty heavy also 12ga. wire. Run the wire through the gunnel to conseal it. You can just put alligator clips on the wire to attach to the battery.


Well, you _could_ do that, but I sure wouldn't. Electrical is not the place to cheap out. 

Get some AWG Marine wire, 14 gauge should probably be more than big enough for nav lights. Use quality marine connectors for your terminal and butt connections, and a DPDT on/off/on switch for your lights so that you can run red/green + anchor, or anchor only so you'll be ok with your local LEOs. Not sure why you don't want a fuse panel, you can run in-line fuses, but I'm not a big fan of those...too many connection points which are usually where problems start, but lots of ppl use them. I wouldn't use clips on the battery, just use ring terminals and get some kind of insulator for the positive post so you don't accidentally arc.


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## Bob Landry (May 31, 2012)

You can spend more on a good rod and reel than it will cost to do this correctly.


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## Bob Landry (May 31, 2012)

RivRunR said:


> muskiemike12 said:
> 
> 
> > You can wire it up with the low voltage wire they use for landscaping if you don't fish near saltwater. I have used it and it works fine. Plenty heavy also 12ga. wire. Run the wire through the gunnel to conseal it. You can just put alligator clips on the wire to attach to the battery.
> ...



I agree. That was some of the worst advice I have read yet on this forum. If you are ever involved in an incident and the investigator points to something on your boat that wasn't working, it could cost you a lot more than a correctly done wiring job.


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## DanMC (May 31, 2012)

Bass Pro and other stores i guess sell navigation light flashlight clamp type (removable too) that use LED's so thet will last a long time before that go blank...saves you all the wiring work....you can get them in white or camo look.And if you do go with hardwire buy yourself the ones that use LED's...just because they draw so little power and they last a very long time. Seasense comes to mind and they make a lot ot those lights.
Dan


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## muskiemike12 (May 31, 2012)

I agree. That was some of the worst advice I have read yet on this forum. If you are ever involved in an incident and the investigator points to something on your boat that wasn't working, it could cost you a lot more than a correctly done wiring job.

Ok Mr. Landry what kind of incident could happen in my little tin boat? The investigator for the insurance on a $500 boat? I have rods and reels that cost more than my boat and motor, so what does that mean. Why can't I use low voltage wire to run my lights? Surely it is far superior to speaker wire. I cannot recomend to use that. Low voltage wire is not tinned, but if I'm 1800 miles from any saltwater what problems might I have? Please enlighten me so I don't offer any more Bad advise. [-(


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## Bob Landry (May 31, 2012)

muskiemike12 said:


> I agree. That was some of the worst advice I have read yet on this forum. If you are ever involved in an incident and the investigator points to something on your boat that wasn't working, it could cost you a lot more than a correctly done wiring job.
> 
> Ok Mr. Landry what kind of incident could happen in my little tin boat? The investigator for the insurance on a $500 boat? I have rods and reels that cost more than my boat and motor, so what does that mean. Why can't I use low voltage wire to run my lights? Surely it is far superior to speaker wire. I cannot recomend to use that. Low voltage wire is not tinned, but if I'm 1800 miles from any saltwater what problems might I have? Please enlighten me so I don't offer any more Bad advise. [-(



The issue would most likely be not relative to the value of your boat and equipment as much as the liability on your part if you were to be found at fault because of faulty equipment. You could be anchored, or under way, at night with inoperative lights and be struck by another boater. You could get swamped and depend on that bilge pump to keep you afloat until help got there. You could have an electrical fire. To make it worse, your kid could be with you if and when it ever happens.

I have been in the marine service business on Lake Travis in Austin, Texas for over 15 years, and I have seen everything from a near miss, to minor collisions, to major collisions, to people being almost burned alive from an alcohol stove explosion, to a couple dieing in their sleep while spending the night anchored in their boat with an improperly repaired generator. Will any of this ever apply to you? Hopefully and probably not, but the point is that in any marine related accident, and particularly where there are injuries, the maggot lawyers have a field day. Everyone that has ever been in the involved boat with a screwdriver goes to court while the lawyers sort out who has the deepest pockets. It's very time consuming, and it's very expensive.

I admit that sometimes I'm not the most politically correct person in some of my comments, but when I offer suggestions on this or any other forum, it's with the intention of helping someone do a project on their boat in a manner that will not only be cost effective, but that will yield the most utility and satisfaction. Translated, the most bang for the buck, and it means doing it right the first time and going out and enjoying your boat, even if it costs a little more up front. You'll make up for that on the back end. 

Regarding your question about low voltage wire. There's nothing that says you can't do it that way. It will work, but there is a product that will give a proportionately better result at a reasonable cost. I assure you that I've seen wiring jobs done with much worse. It just goes back to using a product that was designed to do the job at hand and that yields the best results, both short and long term. Long term satisfaction means you don't have to go back and do it again.

I posted this comment on another electrical thread. I think it is probably relevant here also.

"The cost differential of the wire compared to the overall cost of the project is negligible, and you are still exposing the wiring to a wet envrionment , salt or otherwise, so the same potential for corrosion still exists. That said, the main concern is that you do it with wire that is properly sized for the load and is sufficiently protected by fuses, and done with good connections that won't pull loose."


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## CodyPomeroy (Jun 1, 2012)

I think, perhaps, I will stick with my battery operated clamp on lights. This is all making my head spin...


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## muskiemike12 (Jun 1, 2012)

Cody I too have had those D-cell battery powered nav lights not work for me. I can tell if the stern light goes out, but it's dang near impossible to tell if the bow light goes out while you are running. I gave up on those flashlight style nav lights about 7 years ago now. Put in the removable pole style made by attwood and I have never had a problem since I have switched. Mine are not fused, are connected by alligator clips and I don't have marine grade wire and they always work. Although, apparently when I'm sleeping in my 14' tin and my generator starts on fire and I get broadsided by a cruiser I may regret it later for not using the best wire. :lol: 
Sorry about that there!


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## CodyPomeroy (Jun 1, 2012)

muskiemike12 said:


> Although, apparently when I'm sleeping in my 14' tin and my generator starts on fire and I get broadsided by a cruiser I may regret it later for not using the best wire. :lol:
> Sorry about that there!


That's funny! :lol:


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## Bob Landry (Jun 1, 2012)

CodyPomeroy said:


> muskiemike12 said:
> 
> 
> > Although, apparently when I'm sleeping in my 14' tin and my generator starts on fire and I get broadsided by a cruiser I may regret it later for not using the best wire. :lol:
> ...



I guess it depends on your perspective. If you really don't care one way or the other amd don't like what someone tells you, then a snarkey response has to work. The purpose of my remarks were to indicate that every boat owner is responsible for proper operation of the equipment on his boat and if you are involved in any type of incident and you are proven to be negligent in the repair of your boat, the finger of liability will point to you, regardless of circumstances. Can we say $$$? Anytime there is a marine accident, it's not going to be the good ole boy local sheriff that shows up. The Coast Guard investigates all marine accidents regardless of location, and the first thing they do is drag out the book and start looking for problems. All of that said, if no one really cares, then I really don't either.. Happy Boating..


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## CodyPomeroy (Jun 1, 2012)

I didn't realize this was such a controversial subject. I understand the importance of doing things right, and I wasn't asking about how to do it by cheating. I just don't see the need to go all out with a fancy electrical panel, bus bar, etc... I just want to safely connect a bow light and stern light with a fuse and a switch. That's it.


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## bgeddes (Jun 3, 2012)

Cody, 

Mount decent lights to your boat. Get some tinned wire, some is labeled 'marine' but most electrical supply places sell tinned wire for industrial applications. Find a place to run it on your boat where it won't get stepped on, snagged by lures, or rubbed viciously while underway. Wire ties are great for securing things this application. Run this to a switch, and then run the positive wire through an inline fuse to the battery. 

Safe, what you are seeking, and costs less than a tank of gas for your tow rig.


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## rusty.hook (Jun 4, 2012)

Below is a good way to hook up your lights. Get a pull pull switch at any marine store. I use 14ga. wire from an auto parts store for all my nav. lights. 
Tinned wire is for saltwater use.
NOTE: CLICK ON DIAGRAM TO MAKE PIC BIGGER.


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## rusty.hook (Jun 4, 2012)

Also while on the subject of lights, below is a good diagram for your trailer lights.
NOTE: CLICK ON DIAGRAM TO MAKE PIC BITTER.


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## CodyPomeroy (Jun 4, 2012)

rusty.hook said:


> Below is a good way to hook up your lights. Get a pull pull switch at any marine store. I use 14ga. wire from an auto parts store for all my nav. lights.
> Tinned wire is for saltwater use.
> NOTE: CLICK ON DIAGRAM TO MAKE PIC BIGGER.


Thank you very much, that is perfect! Would you put the a fuse between the switch and the battery?


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## JMichael (Jun 5, 2012)

CodyPomeroy said:


> rusty.hook said:
> 
> 
> > Below is a good way to hook up your lights. Get a pull pull switch at any marine store. I use 14ga. wire from an auto parts store for all my nav. lights.
> ...


Put your fuse on the + line from the battery to the switch. The closer you install it to the battery the better.


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## txneal (Jun 5, 2012)

I have recently been working on a wiring project on my boat and, through advice received on this forum, I ordered all of my electrical supplies from www.genuinedealz.com I've been very pleased with the quality of what they've sent me and the price is very reasonable. In addition, shipping is free and very fast. I don't see how you can beat it for wiring your boat....just order what you want and it will be on your doorstep in about 3 days. It is better quality than what you will get at auto parts and costs less too.


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## rusty.hook (Jun 5, 2012)

I run a 12 ga. black/negative and 12 ga. red/positive from troll motor battery to a Central location and to a terminal block. There fore all my nav. lights, GPS, and fish finder wires are close. No more 14' to 16' runs of black and red wires to the back battery, makes things real simple. Now I do run a long wire red/positive to the pull pull switch for the white/anchor light an a black/ negative wire straight to big motor battery.Bilge pump is run off big motor battery with switch on my console.


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