# New Aluminum Floor in 1648



## tdub (Jul 20, 2010)

Here are the pics of the aluminum floor in my 1648 Alumacraft.


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## tdub (Jul 20, 2010)

Here are the rest of the pictures.


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## sweettfisher (Jul 20, 2010)

looks awesome!! i gotta get rid of that dang wood floor in my beast!


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## basshunter25 (Jul 20, 2010)

Great job! Welcome to the site.


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## Howard (Jul 21, 2010)

Nice rig, I have the same boat but its much older and it was rode hard. Curious why you did not just go straight to the ribs with the sheet of aluminum?


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## sum-kina (Jul 21, 2010)

AWSOME JOB ON THE FLOOR!! =D> 

whats your plans for the rest of the boat?


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## tdub (Jul 21, 2010)

Hi Howard

I will try this again, my last posts didn't come up
The reason I did not attach the floor to ribs is because I wanted it as flat as possible.


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## tdub (Jul 21, 2010)

Sum-kina I am thinking about adding a 12" extension to the front deck with a flip top lid for more storage, for now I'm going to take a break because I'm sick off working on it and just want to burn some fuel and catch some fish.


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## sum-kina (Jul 21, 2010)

tdub said:


> Sum-kina I am thinking about adding a 12" extension to the front deck with a flip top lid for more storage, for now I'm going to take a break because I'm sick off working on it and just want to burn some fuel and catch some fish.




TDUB
I AGREE WITH THAT....NOTHIN BETTER THAN WETTIN A LINE AND ENJOYIN YOUR BOAT!!!
MY 1436 (PICS SOON) IS STILL IN THE PROCESS OF BEIN DECKED...FRONTS DONE, FLOORS IN AND COURRENTLY WORKIN ON THE BACK DECK, BUT WEVE HAD RAIN EVERY NIGHT THIS WEEK SO I HAVENT HAD A CHANCE TO WORK ON IT. BUT I ALSO WANNA REPAINT MY TIN BEFORE THE FLOOR AND DECKS ARE FASTENED DOWN!!!


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## tdub (Jul 21, 2010)

I put in some stuff called tex tread mixed in with the paint for the first coat for some traction, then painted over that after it dried with only paint for the second coat.


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## sum-kina (Jul 21, 2010)

tdub said:


> I put in some stuff called tex tread mixed in with the paint for the first coat for some traction, then painted over that after it dried with only paint for the second coat.



my decks and floor are carpet but i was thinkin bout re doin the floor with aluminum at a later date when money wasnt so tight!


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## Howard (Jul 21, 2010)

About how much for the aluminum floor?


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## sum-kina (Jul 21, 2010)

Howard said:


> About how much for the aluminum floor?




depends on the thickness... but i looked into from a company my welding shop orders from (alum and stainless) and for a 4x10 sheet of 16 gauge to build my livewell was $95


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## cavman138 (Jul 21, 2010)

That floor looks sweet man. Great work.


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## tdub (Jul 21, 2010)

Hey guys
I paid $120 for a 4x8x1/8 sheet of aluminum and $42 for the 2x1x1/8 aluminum "C" channel(16'). This was alot cheaper than I thought it would be.


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## bassboy1 (Jul 21, 2010)

tdub said:


> Hey guys
> I paid $120 for a 4x8x1/8 sheet of aluminum and $42 for the 2x1x1/8 aluminum "C" channel(16'). This was alot cheaper than I thought it would be.


What alloy was that? I can barely get .063 for that price, at least in 5052. I paid 198 for a 4 x 8 of .125, and the .090 (which I use a LOT of) is 130 (all 5052).


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## tdub (Jul 21, 2010)

I am not sure about the alloy. It is not very flexable at all. I had to stand on the ribs as I fastened them down but it worked very well. As far as the cost goes, it could just be a location to location cost difference. I don't know, this is what it cost because I'm looking at the invoice now.


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## bassboy1 (Jul 22, 2010)

tdub said:


> I am not sure about the alloy. It is not very flexable at all. I had to stand on the ribs as I fastened them down but it worked very well. As far as the cost goes, it could just be a location to location cost difference. I don't know, this is what it cost because I'm looking at the invoice now.



Could be a location difference, but that is a BIG difference. I know that my local supplier (which I am incredibly lucky to have about 3 miles from the house, and couldn't ask for better customer service) has the lowest prices in the area, that I've found (including Atlanta area). However, I haven't priced anything other than 5052 in such a long time, that I couldn't tell what they'd be. I do know that the 5052 runs higher than the 3003, but I think it might be less than 6061, at least with the T6 temper. 

Maybe I need to start looking around a bit more for prices.

On a completely unrelated subject, I wish all the boat companies would build the ribs like they are on your Alumacraft, where they are mitered and welded at the corners, and not just bent. I imagine the cost is a bit more, but it is definitely a better construction method, for a multitude of reasons.


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## countryboy120406 (Aug 16, 2010)

what'd you use for a filler in between the ribs? i really wanna do this to my 1650 but my rib width is 49" in the back wider than a sheet. so im kinda stuck on mine.


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## Howard (Aug 16, 2010)

tdub, Kind of thought that was your goal (flat as possible) what was the cost? Considering doing mine also, similar boats. I plan on adding the front deck back 2 ribs also for batteries and storage and then maybe another foot for a livewell.


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## Teammuir1 (Aug 16, 2010)

I am curious to know the thickness of the aluminum sheet...
and were did you get the aluminum channel stock?
did you screw the sheet aluminum down for 
Rivet it....
the braces that are touching the boat bottom ....
are they welded to the bottom of the floor?


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## tdub (Aug 22, 2010)

I'm going to answer all you're questions in order...
The sheet thickness is 1/8". 
I ordered all of the materials through a local steel supply shop. 
I used rivets to attach the floor sheet and so far so good.
The braces are attached with rivets as well, this step really stiffened up the floor, I thought the "C" channel would carry the load without any bracing but it flexed to much.(Trial and error thats why I posted the pics) All support bracing big rivets are used. The floor has smaller ones due to the number of rivets. I will say after it was all done I am very happy with the results, I lost some inches in the front of the boat making it flat(@4") but walking around the boat is so much easier now. It took some time to do but after using it for a while now it was worth it. I do need to change some things as I am going to put a surface drive engine on the boat, like moving the gas tank and battery up front. I will try to post more pics. Hope this helps.


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## Teammuir1 (Aug 22, 2010)

thanks a lot...
yes it has helped I am doing to do a gut job
this winter....and completely go through my boat.
MY grandfather built my boat back in 1981 lol
so you can imagine it needs updating.
here is a pic I plan on using the same technique as 
you did... I might be going a step further...
with some of my deck bracing.. I might Tig Weld them


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## Teammuir1 (Aug 22, 2010)

I am curious to know...
 whats your boat weigh? have you ever weighed 
your boat.. 
I did just the other day... I actually painted the bottom of my boat...
while I had the boat off the trailer I drove it to a local Truck stop and
used their scales...
so I am curious to know what others boat weighs 
I know mine is to heavy... and the main reason for the NEW REMODEL.
my boat is a 1648 alumacraft.
my trailer is home made as well.
here are a few pics of the painting process.


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## tdub (Aug 22, 2010)

Alumacraft web site says my 1648 NCS runs about 260lbs.


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## Teammuir1 (Aug 23, 2010)

Do you have pics of your boat for comparison.
please post them


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## tdub (Aug 23, 2010)

Page #1 has 16 pics


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## rellis1962 (Aug 23, 2010)

Bracing and floor look awesome. Sometimes wish I had sprung for the aluminum floor. Going to put some not skid stuff on the floor?


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## mfreeman451 (Aug 24, 2010)

Wow the floor looks frickin amazing! I have the same boat and am going to do the same thing. I like how you raised up the floor ontop of the ribs like that, I was just gonna try and make a bend in the aluminum and rivet it down. The only downside I see to doing it your way though is the water might sit in your boat opposed to running down the middle to the transom.. Anyways, I love the mod and will be following this thread closely.


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## mfreeman451 (Aug 24, 2010)

also, I think someone else asked but I'm not sure if I saw your reply, what did you fill in the sides with around the flooring? Would the flooring be strong enough to put in pedestal bases for seating as well?


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## mfreeman451 (Aug 24, 2010)

You mentioned putting the gas tank up front below the deck on the bow, I assume you'd just cut out the cubby hole, make it a bit wider, and take out some of the insulation?

I was thinking of doing this myself since I am going to put a longtail mudbuddy on my MV1648NCS but I read another post on here saying that it might not be a good idea. What were your thoughts?


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## caver101 (Aug 24, 2010)

Not the original poster, but..... I have about the same boat. I put my tolling motor battery up front under the deck. I just opened up the access hole a tad with a jig saw and slid my battery and battery box in there. Sure helped with balance in the boat a lot to get it out of the rear of the boat. Thinking of putting my gas tank up there too. Just make a small box to the right of the access hole to slide the tank in and hold it in place with a rubber strap. Would be easy to remove to add fuel.


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## Teammuir1 (Aug 24, 2010)

My gas tank is in the rear.. but both of my batteries are up front.
my boat set up differently than I think most though.
can everyone post pictures of their boats?


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## tdub (Aug 24, 2010)

As far as water collecting on the floor I left a 1/2" gap between the end of the sheet and the rear seats so the water had somewhere to go. Water runs into the gap and to the back of the boat, I also installed a bilge pump just incase. The filler pieces for the sides of the sheet are made from 1 1/2" wide aluminum, I just cut each one to fit, rivited them in and cauked around them. Moving the tank and battery is next, still thinking about how to do it. I thought about extending the front deck 15" or so and adding a hinge amost as wide as the boat. It would be one big storage compartment.


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## mfreeman451 (Aug 30, 2010)

did you weld those pieces of alum. in that hold up the c-channel over the ribs, to the floor?


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## Teammuir1 (Aug 30, 2010)

Pictures tell everything...
come on.. guys.. post pictures....
thats how we all learn....
I am going to a total remodel this 
winter.... along with another motor....
I think It will feel like a brand new boat 
next spring....


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## mfreeman451 (Aug 30, 2010)

It kind of looks like they are welded but I wanted to be sure. I am copying this design to the T


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## Alumacraft (Aug 30, 2010)

I have a 1236 lund jon boat.

I was wondering what is the thinnest aluminum I could get away with? the ribs are 15" apart. 

I would just need a 40"x41" piece and a 40"x43" piece. could I order pieces like that or would I have to order a 4'x8' sheet? 

where should I look for the aluminum? I'm from WI. a steel shop?


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## mfreeman451 (Aug 30, 2010)

https://www.onlinemetalstore.com/ - they're in MPLS I believe, you can have them cut it to whatever you'd like.

I think most people here agree that .125 of 5052 alloy is the way to go.


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## tdub (Sep 2, 2010)

No welding was done on the boat. Just rivets, so far so good everything is holding up great.


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## tdub (Sep 2, 2010)

As far as cutting the aluminum goes you can use a jig saw with a metal blade on the sheet, it will work just fine. No need to custom order any material sizes...that will bring your total up. The only tools I used for cutting are a jig saw, sawzall, cordless drill for the corners of the cuts, and a grinder w/ cut off wheels.


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## mfreeman451 (Sep 30, 2010)

Any updates? I'm anxious to see what else you've done


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## tdub (Oct 10, 2010)

Well the only updates I have done to the boat was putting a new go-devil surface drive engine on the back of it.(I will try to get pics up)


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## bobberboy (Oct 10, 2010)

countryboy120406 said:


> what'd you use for a filler in between the ribs? i really wanna do this to my 1650 but my rib width is 49" in the back wider than a sheet. so im kinda stuck on mine.



Can you tell us how you did the between the ribs work? This is a really nice job, even more so because you did such a good job between the ribs. I hate having crap get caught in the gaps between the floor and ribs and you solved it. Will you put something over the alum floor or just paint it? Some here prefer metal or liner floors but I like to fish bare-footed when I can and like carpet for that reason. I'm sure carpet glue would do for that part of the job.


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## tdub (Oct 10, 2010)

I covered the gap between the edge of the sheet and the side of the boat with 1 1/2"x1/8" aluminum. Cut each one to fit and riveted them in. If your gap is wider just use wider flat stock. This part takes some time, a lot of cutting and measuring of small parts, but it really makes the floor look finished. As far as any floor covering I'm just going to leave it painted and call it good.


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## tdub (Oct 10, 2010)

Here are the pics of the new motor and pics of the fill in piece that goes between the sheet edge and the edge of the boat.


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## JOHNSON44 (Oct 14, 2010)

Looks really good Tdub. I just cannot get past the cold aluminum floor, too much time barefoot in a tin canoe I guess. I will probably go with varnished plywood and vinyl carpet in my 18X60 Duracraft. One of your threads from Teammuir I think, showed a little of a really neat console. I would like to see more photos of that. Thanks.


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## tdub (Oct 20, 2010)

Well I can't say the floor is cold, due to the fact there is a layer of insulation between the bottom of the boat and the new floor (see pics page 1). Plus the o.d. green paint in direct sunlight will offset any chilly feet.


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## dixie_boysles (Oct 21, 2010)

I did this same thing!! I used an old aluminum road sign that I bought at the local metal yard.







We then proceeded to cut it to size and used the trimmings to extend it because my open floor plan was a little longer than the sign:
















looks like we had the same idea for supporting the middle of the supports:






I went a slight different route than you in finishing the aluminum. I carpeted mine. It really cuts down on the noise in the boat and feels good one bare feet 











i think the aluminum is a WAY better way to go than wood flooring!


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## jcb (Oct 21, 2010)

I like them floor thats ben put in those boats.I has ben wondering what them old road sign weigh?I use alimimum in me boat but it was not thick like road sign but very lite in weight.Thick road sign be tuffer but me thinner alimimum is holding up good.I have son thats putting floor in on old 1442Fisher marine but is needing alimimum,i tell him about road sign.Maybe you tell the weight of road signs please?


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## dixie_boysles (Oct 21, 2010)

jcb said:


> I like them floor thats ben put in those boats.I has ben wondering what them old road sign weigh?I use alimimum in me boat but it was not thick like road sign but very lite in weight.Thick road sign be tuffer but me thinner alimimum is holding up good.I have son thats putting floor in on old 1442Fisher marine but is needing alimimum,i tell him about road sign.Maybe you tell the weight of road signs please?



i think mine was 55 lbs


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## mfreeman451 (Feb 15, 2012)

What is the best alloy to get? 4x8 sheet of 5052 in 0.125 is 205.66$ up here..


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## KevinWI (Feb 16, 2012)

mfreeman451 said:


> What is the best alloy to get? 4x8 sheet of 5052 in 0.125 is 205.66$ up here..



Aluminum Sheet 5052 H32: .125" x 48" x 48" $91.23 / pc plus shipping at stock car steel...may be cheaper to get it shipped.
8' too big for them to ship.


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## mfreeman451 (Feb 18, 2012)

tdub said:


> Hey guys
> I paid $120 for a 4x8x1/8 sheet of aluminum and $42 for the 2x1x1/8 aluminum "C" channel(16'). This was alot cheaper than I thought it would be.



That is an awesome price.. I found Aluminum Architectural Channel 2"x1"x1/8" for 63.97$ for 16', so if I need 32' that is 127.94$..ughh

Flooring is about 206$ too


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## mfreeman451 (Feb 21, 2012)

Good news, found a local place that will sell it to me for about 125$ for the 4x8 sheet.

Tdub can you please confirm that you were using astm alum arch channel?


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## KevinWI (Feb 21, 2012)

mfreeman451 said:


> Good news, found a local place that will sell it to me for about 125$ for the 4x8 sheet.
> 
> Tdub can you please confirm that you were using astm alum arch channel?


How thick?


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## mfreeman451 (Feb 21, 2012)

5052 in .125



KevinWI said:


> mfreeman451 said:
> 
> 
> > Good news, found a local place that will sell it to me for about 125$ for the 4x8 sheet.
> ...


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## KevinWI (Feb 21, 2012)

That is an incredible price.


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## tdub (Mar 3, 2012)

I used 2"x1"x1/8" aluminum C channel.


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## Bulldog1150 (Oct 25, 2020)

dixie_boysles said:


> I did this same thing!! I used an old aluminum road sign that I bought at the local metal yard.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Did you put any type of blocking/backing below the base of your pedastal seat?


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