# Sea Nypmh 17' Deep V.



## LonLB (Dec 30, 2010)

Well I brought home a 17ft Sea Nymph today. It's pretty deep, and wide for the age of the boat (78").
The trailer needs work but has lots of potential. It is a Bunk trailer with a cradle style so the boat sets down in it.

Here are a couple photos.














As you can see, no motor, and the interior is a basket case. That's fine I wanted to do a rebuild/mod anyhow.


Plans? Well, I'll give plans on the trailer because it will take less time. But Actually I'll be doing the trailer last.
Sand blast and paint.
Extended bunks.
Extend the trailer rearward. I think this will work better than moving the winch stand forward.
I'm going to add more modern fenders, and use carpeted boards on the inside as a guide for the boat.
New rollers
Eventually a swing away tongue.
Add steps around the fenders, and around the lights.


First for the boat will be to clean all the junk interior out of the boat. This will probably take awhile. :shock: 
Then clean up the inside, and get it ready for Gluvit.

At some point I'll be making floor patterns, and replacing the floor after the gluvit goes in.

I'm going to remove the bow rails, and windshield. Remove the port console, and extend the front deck till it is flush with the starboard console.
I may do in-floor rod storage, but for the most part I'm up in the air about specifics.


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## PartsMan (Dec 30, 2010)

LonLB said:


> Remove the port console, and extend the front deck till it is flush with the starboard console.



Sounds like a great setup to me.


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## Trinity (Dec 30, 2010)

Looking forward to this one!!!! Looks like a great project!


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## LonLB (Dec 30, 2010)

I'm going to pick up an old glass boat that has a 65hp Johnson on it, and that motor and it's controls are coming off and going on this boat.

I'm trading a couple tools for it, and the neighbor is letting me use his engine hoist and outboard stand, and in return I'm going to give him the trailer that's under the glass boat. The boat itself is going to the dump.



I've got a few parts already for the boat. Stainless pop up cleats, a Lowrance X102C w/ram mount, Lowrance H20 w/ram mount, flush mount rod holders, MinnKota Powerdrive trolling motor, batteries, a few interior lights....


I hope to have the boat painted, new interior by memorial day. In the picture above you can see right accross the road is the lake, and the neighbor has a ramp on their property so I can always use it, and just use the trolling motor if I have to. The 65hp Johnson isn't top priority.


This was the original plan, but I'm going to try and not add the box down both sides. And in that pciture I was planning to convert to tiller. Now I think I'm going to keep one console.


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## PartsMan (Dec 30, 2010)

Tiller would be neat but don't rip that console out unless you have found a big long shaft tiller motor.
I am finding out they are few and far between.


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## LonLB (Dec 30, 2010)

I was willing to buy the parts to convert a remote engine to tiller, but I think if I plan things well, this boat will have plenty of room, even if I keep the one console.

You are right about tiller motors though. I remember even years ago my dad had a hard time buying a long shaft tiller used.

I'd love to have that 9.9 of yours. I want a kicker on it for sure at some point. The last aluminum boat I had had a 4 stroke kicker on it, and I used it allot.


I'm going to try and get some of the mess on the inside cleaned out tomorrow. Supposed to be close to 50 degrees tomorrow.


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## PartsMan (Dec 31, 2010)

LonLB said:


> I'd love to have that 9.9 of yours. I want a kicker on it for sure at some point. The last aluminum boat I had had a 4 stroke kicker on it, and I used it allot.



It is for sale. :mrgreen: 
I would keep it for a kicker but my uncle offered to give me a 6hp long shaft kicker he has.
It came off of a Starcraft SS180. a very similar boat to yours. Sweet set up for sure.


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## LonLB (Dec 31, 2010)

PartsMan said:


> LonLB said:
> 
> 
> > I'd love to have that 9.9 of yours. I want a kicker on it for sure at some point. The last aluminum boat I had had a 4 stroke kicker on it, and I used it allot.
> ...




I would buy it if I didn't have so much work and expense on the boat ahead of me.


The engine I'm getting needs work. So, I'm faced with spend the money to get it running, and risk NOT getting it running, or buy a good running kicker and use it for now, and 'know' I have a good running engine-even if it is small.
But that won't be in the budget this year.

In any event I do want to fish Lake St Clair, the Traverse bays, and Burt/Mullet lake. In which case I REALLY want a kicker for those areas just for added security.
Burt/Mullet is a combined about 40,000 acres and open water.


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## LonLB (Jan 1, 2011)

So shoveled bits of interior out with a snow shovel.

There was expanding foam for flotation. I have a question about that. I'll get to that later.

Anyhow my brother pulled it home the day I got it, and you could more than tell it was back there. Which I surely didn't expect. Well it's because there was *TWO* decks. When the original was rotten someone just put a layer over it. Completely water logged, along with water that couldn't drain because of the foam, and water logged foam also.
Luckily for me, most of the foam came out in one piece at each section. So I didn't have to dig and dig to get the stuff out.

It was heavy enough that I couldn't wheel it into the garage by hand, or even lift the tongue of the trailer.

I can already tell it's 100's of LB's lighter.

I had to come inside for a bit to warm up. I felt like my brain was going to freeze. I'll post pictures later today of the progress, and of the mess that is left of the interior.


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## LonLB (Jan 1, 2011)

Well I've got a question already.

The boat has a VHF antenna and I would like to keep it.

The antenna cable is routed through in a few places, and the holes are JUST big enough to fit the able through.

Can I cut the cable, and then splice an end onto it later? Or, can the screw on end of the cable be removed so I can get the cable out, and then splice it back on?


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## LonLB (Jan 1, 2011)

Here are pictures of the interior!! :shock:


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## LonLB (Jan 3, 2011)

I finally found the HP rating of this boat. It's 100 HP.

I really hope a 65HP is enough because I already made a deal for it, and should be picking it up this sunday.

Also may work out a deal to trade the trailer under it for a longer bass boat style trailer that sits a little lower, and already has the steps built in around the rear fenders. And larger tires/wheels. Depends on if he does a strait trade, because I'm always looking for a deal.  

*Also got the thing in the garage this evening.* I hope to have the foam in the bow removed, the starboard console, bow rails, and other deck/gunnell hardware should also be removed by this weekend.

I need to get some work done this week, because I'll be out of town all weekend, except Sunday evening.


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## Critter (Jan 3, 2011)

Love that boat, I can't wait to see it when your done.


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## BYOB Fishing (Jan 3, 2011)

Wow! That thing was a mess! Are you going to keep the name? :LOL2:


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## LonLB (Jan 3, 2011)

BYOB Fishing said:


> Wow! That thing was a mess! Are you going to keep the name? :LOL2:




That's the truth...

And also, a big negative on keeping the name. :lol:


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## PartsMan (Jan 4, 2011)

LonLB said:


> I finally found the HP rating of this boat. It's 100 HP.
> 
> I really hope a 65HP is enough because I already made a deal for it, and should be picking it up this sunday.



I bet it will get around great with the right prop. Probably not the fastest boat on the lake.
If that 65 idles good you may not need a kicker too.


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## Ictalurus (Jan 4, 2011)

LonLB said:


> And also, a big negative on keeping the name.



It's bad luck to change the name of a boat, but in your case I'd take the chance :LOL2:


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## LonLB (Jan 4, 2011)

[/quote]

I bet it will get around great with the right prop. Probably not the fastest boat on the lake.
If that 65 idles good you may not need a kicker too.[/quote]

I think so. Of course I can't be sure till I try it. I thought about trying to find a deal on a bigger engine, but I'm just going to stick with the 65 horse for now.

If I do end up fish a few places I want I'll add the kicker just for added security. Having a back up motor on st clair, or even Burt/Mullet, and The Traverse Bay's on Lake Michigan would be a good idea.

As for normal use though, the 65 should work. The only trolling use will be trolling for Musky, so I don't need to creep down super slow like the walleye guys do.

Once I get the motor running well, I'm going to add a set of Boyeson Power Reeds. They are supposed to greatly improve idle, and improve throttle response. Maybe more power too, but the better idle is worth the cost to me.


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## nathanielrthomas (Jan 4, 2011)

Once I get the motor running well, I'm going to add a set of Boyeson Power Reeds. They are supposed to greatly improve idle, and improve throttle response. Maybe more power too, but the better idle is worth the cost to me.[/quote]


They do help with the idle. You can really hear the difference. I couldnt tell a difference in power, but it def made the engine seem smoother.


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## benjineer (Jan 4, 2011)

On the VHF cable, you can cut off the end that screws into the radio and replace it. If I remember right, you cut the outer insulation back 3/4" or so and lay the woven outer wire back onto the insulation (turn it inside out). Then you trim back the thick insulation that protects the inner wire. You will solder the wire in the center to the inner hollow post of the new connector. You then crimp the outer part onto the woven wire that is laid back. Hopefully the new connector will come with a diagram and better instructions, but this gives you the general idea. New fiberglass antennas come with the radio connector unattached, so you can cut the wire to the length you want.

I can't see the pictures because my work blocks them unless uploaded directly to the site, but it sounds like a great project. I'll have to take a look when I'm at home. Maybe the 65hp will work fine if you keep the weight low. Maybe you can make it lighter than the original design. Good luck!


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## benjineer (Jan 4, 2011)

See the pics now. Nice hull. Looks like a huge splashwell like I saw on another deep V on this board.


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## LonLB (Jan 4, 2011)

benjineer said:


> See the pics now. Nice hull. Looks like a huge splashwell like I saw on another deep V on this board.



That's one of the things I don't like about it. I would REALLY like to make it smaller. Most new deep V boats have a much smaller splash well.

Still not sure how to handle that one. Leave it, or re-engineer it.

Part of the decision will be based on having clearance for stuff under there. The newer boats with small splash wells have in hull fuel tanks. I'm mounting a permanent tank, but it's not going under the floor, but under the splash well.


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## jasper60103 (Jan 5, 2011)

Love your project. That's going to be one big mean fishing machine! 8)


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## LonLB (Jan 5, 2011)

jasper60103 said:


> Love your project. That's going to be one big mean fishing machine! 8)



Thanks! Every time I work on it, I get more excited to get it finished.

I hope to have all the deck hardware off tonight before I go to bed. Cleats, lights, bow rails, anchormates, etc.




benjineer said:


> See the pics now. Nice hull. Looks like a huge splashwell like I saw on another deep V on this board.



After looking over the splash well area I have decided to lower it about 4". I'm going to do this with a heavy aluminum beam like used as crossmembers on Pontoon decks.

Rivet or bolt the section of crossmember to the gunnell, and then the splash well to it. This way I can run a deck right over it, and close some of it in....Basically making it similar to the newer boats with their much smaller splash wells.


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## LonLB (Jan 6, 2011)

Finally got all the deck hardware removed...

I had to remove some trim and braces up front to get the old wood out from under the front bow cap....Now it's ultra flimsy so I'm going to fix that first.
I'm going to reinforce the entire underside for more support for the trolling motor....


The foam in the front is still being a pain. It is taking FOREVER to thaw because the garage isn't heated. Attached to the house but not heated.

I should be ready for gluvit by next weekend. At which point I'm going to have to borrow a propane heater that my mom has, and get the garage heated up for a couple days.


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## PartsMan (Jan 7, 2011)

Just open the door to the house for a couple days. :mrgreen:


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## LonLB (Jan 7, 2011)

I sat the trolling motor up on the bow cap last night.... :evil:  

I think it's going to be too short. It's a 48" shaft.


I really hope that there is a way to extend the shaft. Maybe Minnkota will sell a longer shaft, and I can just extend the wires or something and install the longer shaft.

It's brand new, and it was given to me. But it's also a couple years old, and no original packaging. AND came from Minn Kota directly. So it's not like I can take it back or anything.

I'm going to give them a call here in a bit, and I'll update this post with any info I get from them. I figure it might be useful information for others here too.


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## LonLB (Jan 7, 2011)

So I just called Minn Kota.....LUCKILY you can buy a longer shaft and install it.

It is threaded into the motor, and needs to be unscrewed, cleaned up, and then the new one installed. He mentioned that most service centers have done this quite a few times.

The cost for a 60" shaft for a Power Drive V2 motor was 30 bucks plus shipping and handling.


That makes me feel MUCH better.


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## LonLB (Jan 11, 2011)

Major decision time. I need to make it in the next week or two.

Tiller or single console.
Based on the fact it's 17' long, and only 78" wide, I'm leaning towards tiller. Cost really isn't an issue because the money I spend to convert to tiller will be about the same amount of $$ spent buying a new steering system.

Any thoughts?


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## Flat Bottom (Jan 11, 2011)

I guess it depends on exactally what your going to be using the boat for the most... I have tiller and console boats, and for whatever reason, i just like the console better. I dunno, i think it's the feel or something. But you might have a little more room if you run a tiller for fishing and that sort of thing... however, i think it adds a little more feel of custom to a boat when you put a console in.


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## LonLB (Jan 11, 2011)

Default Stripping old carpet glue, and Scrubbing is in my future.

Finally got everything out of the hull. There is a bunch of carpet glue residue. It looks like in some places they used some liquid nails type glue.

Also there is a orange coating. I hate to call this paint because it really doesn't seem like it is. Maybe it's some sort of protective "stuff" the factory sprayed.

Anyhow I'm all ears on ideas for removing the stuff on the sidewalls and prepped it for paint....Actually I'd like to just carpet the sides, but I definitely want a good clean flake free surface to glue the carpet too.

Other than that I'm ready to scrub things up and wait for some Gluvit to get here.

Tomorrow is going to be a cleaning up my mess in the garage, and outside day.


Here is how she sits now.


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## Flat Bottom (Jan 11, 2011)

This is also something that i have ran into on a project or two. My thoughts were either some sort of stripping agent? (havn't tried it so far) or in a situation such as yours where your going to carpet it anyways, use lightweight 1/4 ply with carpet and screw that to the ribs... that way in the future if the carpet wears out you can just take everything off and don't have to deal with removing the glue again... just a thought.


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## stone4140 (Jan 12, 2011)

LonLB said:


> Other than that I'm ready to scrub things up and wait for some Gluvit to get here.



How much Gluvit did you order?


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## PartsMan (Jan 12, 2011)

LonLB said:


> Based on the fact it's 17' long, and only 78" wide, I'm leaning towards tiller.



:lol: :lol:


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## LonLB (Jan 12, 2011)

PartsMan said:


> LonLB said:
> 
> 
> > Based on the fact it's 17' long, and only 78" wide, I'm leaning towards tiller.
> ...




Based on today's standards that's pretty small. The splash well takes up much more of the boat than on newer models, and most 17' boats sold today are 85-95" wide.


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## LonLB (Jan 14, 2011)

Wholesale Marine has the quart size Gluvit for $38. Shipping for UPS ground was $7.23.

$46.23 including shipping is a better price than I've found elsewhere without shipping.

I'm going to get the bow reinforced and the hull scrubbed up this weekend. Should have Gluvit on the following weekend.

This would be going faster, but my Brother works with a lumber distributor, so I'm waiting on a sweet deal on plywood to fall into my lap.

While I'm waiting for that I can make my floor/deck patterns and get some flotation in the boat.


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## LonLB (Jan 15, 2011)

I decided to take the boat down to bare metal and start over. I'm glad because there is about 4 layers of paint on it.


I should have the sides and gunnels stripped by this time next weekend.....I got quite a bit stripped today. Just using paint stripper from Home Depot, and a stainless hand held brush.


Talked to my brother today. He's going to get the plywood, and sheets of foam for me for my Birthday. He works for a Materials distributor, so he can get it from work.


As long as I'm able to get the motor up and running without tons of cash outlay, I should have this thing ready to go by Memorial Day.


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## LonLB (Jan 18, 2011)

I got the Gluvit today. I should be applying it this weekend hopefully.

I've been spending time lately writing cover letters, printing resume's and making some rounds to boat builders in the area.
Hopefully by next week I have a new job at either Smoker Craft, or South Bay Pontoons. Booth reputable companies that aren't afraid to pay good employees.

Made a couple other stops too, including Rinker and Polar Kraft, and I've just about excluded them already unless I run out of options. Not known for paying well, and just didn't get a good vibe from the people I met with, and talked too.


As soon as I find the time I'll be scrub, scrub, scrubbing away.


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## stone4140 (Jan 19, 2011)

Good luck on the job hunt. That is great you have so many boat companies in your area. Also let me know if the 2lbs of gluvit was enough or if you think you could have used more..


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## PartsMan (Jan 19, 2011)

LonLB said:


> Based on today's standards that's pretty small. The splash well takes up much more of the boat than on newer models, and most 17' boats sold today are 85-95" wide.



True. It just sounded funny compared to the daily "42" is plenty wide" discussions.


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## LonLB (Jan 21, 2011)

Found a livewell. I liked the long skinny setup since I'll be Musky fishing a bunch.

https://greatlakesskipper.com/product/5_267_316-boat-deck-and-docking-hardware-live-wells/13483-tracker-marine-group-tracker-25-gallon-boat-poly-livewell-w-cover.html


That is a link to their site, but it's cheaper to buy on ebay because they are offering free shipping.
Just search for greatlakes skipper and then it's in their ebay store.


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## LonLB (Jan 31, 2011)

Haven't done much...

Progress=


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## stone4140 (Jan 31, 2011)

Looks great. That's a lot of work done. I remember you saying you were just going to paint the hull instead of steelflex. You still planning on doing that??If so what paint are you planning on using? I read on here someone used hardener in their paint and they said it made a big difference. Trying to figure out what I'm going to do myself.


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## LonLB (Jan 31, 2011)

I'm going to prime it with zinc chromate, then the Rustoleum marine primer, then regular Rustoleum paint.....I may try the hardener. The Tractor Supply stores sell it.

The bottom, and transom are going to be the "Aluminum" color, and the sides gloss black.

I will probably use a foam roller on the bottom. The black on the sides I'm going to spray. I'll drive it up to my BIL's house because of his compressor, setup a mini booth with tarps, and spray the black in his garage.


That's the plan anyhow.


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## LonLB (Feb 1, 2011)

Well another update with no pictures.  

Talked to my neighbor, and he is willing to trade even up my trailer, for a trailer he has with an old bass boat on it...

The bass boats trailer sits a little lower, is longer, has longer bunks, steps build around the fenders, with diamond plate tread, and 14" tires/wheels.

It needs to be cleaned up too, but I think it will be a better starting point, and for the price of....nothing. =D>


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## LonLB (Feb 6, 2011)

Got the boat with the motor on it home yesterday. It's got a 65hp Johnson on it, and it's going on this boat.

It also has a set of spring loaded automatic trim tabs, and a aux motor/kicker motor bracket on it. Those are going on this boat too.


Also got enough ply, and sheet foam from my brother for my B-day, to do the floor/deck in the boat. And my B-day present to myself was a livewell aerator pump, 3 pedestal bases, a fuse block, and a gas fill, for the permanent tank.


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## LonLB (Feb 12, 2011)

I had to pull the boat out of the garage and the Bronco in, to do some work to it....Got the boat back in today....I've got a pretty decent supply of "stuff" so far and am getting excited to start clicking away.

5 sheets 3/4" Exterior Ply
two sheets, 1/2" ply for patterns or side panels
6 sheets 2" thick foam board insulation
4 taperlock pedestal bases.
One fixed pedestal
Minn Kota Powerdrive V2 54lb thrust bow mount.
Built in gas tank
Perko gas fill
a pretty cool steering wheel
Automatic trim tabs (like an older version of Smart Tabs)
A kicker motor bracket
65hp Johnson Engine.
50" long livewell
Livewell plumbing parts.

Probably some other stuff.


I have spring fever in a *BAD WAY*


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## LonLB (Feb 13, 2011)

This build is taking a unique turn from this point onward.

It is going to be a tiller. Bought the complete tiller handle setup from someone off Craigslist for $50. Which is an AMAZING deal.


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## LonLB (Feb 19, 2011)

My engine has NO prop so I don't have a starting point, and need a prop recommendation.

65HP Johnson. Just Barely 17' long. Rear has a very shallow V. I also have a set of automatic spring loaded trim tabs I'm going to install. They are approximately 8 wide X 5 long.


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## LonLB (Feb 19, 2011)

When I pulled my Transom boards I found some corrosion.....The spots aren't bad enough I feel I should have them welded up. I would rather not drill them out, and add rivits because there are enough holes back there already.

I was thinking of using JB Weld like a filler, to fill the pits.

Any ideas or tips on this issue?
I'd like to have my Transom boards cut and ready to go in by this time tomorrow night.


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## Flat Bottom (Feb 19, 2011)

LonLB said:


> When I pulled my Transom boards I found some corrosion.....The spots aren't bad enough I feel I should have them welded up. I would rather not drill them out, and add rivits because there are enough holes back there already.
> 
> I was thinking of using JB Weld like a filler, to fill the pits.
> 
> ...




I have used Jb weld like this and so far it is working good, it is kind of a pain however because it takes a while to set up and keeps running, i have also used regular auto body filler (so long as it says it will adhere well to aluminum), actually used it below the water line, then primer and paint over it and it works like a charm since it isn't really a strength issue as much as cosmetics. Just make sure you clean it out good, i have the same thing on my transom right now, once i put it back together i will just primer it good and put the wood over it... that's all.


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## LonLB (Feb 20, 2011)

I snapped a picture. This is the worst spot. Transom aluminum thickness according to my calipers is .110


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## LonLB (Feb 20, 2011)

BTW this is what the boat looks like now. #-o 

My goal is to have it done by the end of next month.


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## Flat Bottom (Feb 20, 2011)

LonLB said:


> I snapped a picture. This is the worst spot. Transom aluminum thickness according to my calipers is .110



If it were me, i would just clean the whole transom, and primer over it real good with a self etching primer before i replace the wood, that's what i'm going to do and i have some worse than that.


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## Mike P (Feb 24, 2011)

Scroll down to the post by Dreamcatcher. 

https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-outdoor-photos/258829-post-link-your-project-restoration-thread-3.html

Quite similar to what you started with. Just another idea for ya. And no it is not mine.


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## stone4140 (Feb 25, 2011)

Mike P said:


> Scroll down to the post by Dreamcatcher.
> 
> https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-outdoor-photos/258829-post-link-your-project-restoration-thread-3.html
> 
> Quite similar to what you started with. Just another idea for ya. And no it is not mine.




Thats similiar to what I would like to do with my boat. It looks like he covered the top drain with the deck. Do you think that deck added that same structural support as the splashwell did. That would be my concern more than splashing water. Nice link! Lon you got any updates I'm waiting on those pics of your splashwell area


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## LonLB (Feb 25, 2011)

That deck is exactly what you will have to do if you remove the splash well.

Personally I'd rather have the framing built of aluminum just so it has the same flexibility and strength as the boat itself. And maintains that same structural strength longer than wood.


I don't have much for an update, but maybe I'll burn the midnight oil tonight and post something early tomorrow morning. :lol:


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## Mike P (Feb 25, 2011)

I believe he built that deck completely of starboard. It is strong as he has posted a lot of offshore trips for swordfish, sailfish and tuna off south Florida on the Florida Sportsmen forum in the past. I just thought it was neat finding another thread that was so similar in beginning.


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## LonLB (Feb 26, 2011)

Well I got at least _some_ work done this last night/this morning....Had to take time out for a couple fishing shows though.

Anyhow this is what my new splashwell is going to look like. It will be mounted lower than what it was, on top of being much smaller. Then I'll add a short rear deck over everything except the actual well itself.




This is sort of what it looks like on the boat...Actually more like it's size compared to the boat, since it's just sitting there.


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## LonLB (Feb 28, 2011)

Stopped by Alro Metals in Kalamazoo....This is the place I'll get my aluminum most likely. Just got some rivets, and some heavy C channel.

The C-channel will rivet to the gunnel, and a crossmember will run from each side. Basically the same as it was, only lower than it was.

I got my transom pattern roughed in tonight. I should be able to get at least one of the final boards cut out by this time tomorrow. Maybe both.  


Then I can finish up the transom, start decking, and framing. =P~


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## stone4140 (Mar 1, 2011)

Thats looking good. I like the new splashwell looks like it will resemble the newer style boats. I got a few questions since your boat is similiar to mine and I am new to working with aluminum hulls I hope you don't mind. What size and material rivets are you using? If you have to drill below or near the water line what type of fastener will you?


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## LonLB (Mar 1, 2011)

The rivets in the splash well are 3/16 x 1/4" grip.
I used new foam/rubber seals between each panel because that is what they did from the factory. So I replaced it with new. That added to the needed grip length.

You want to use all aluminum rivets.


There are holes in the transom that will probably be below the water line. They are drilled for bolts, that I removed when removing the boards.
I'll replace the bolts, and use plenty of 3M 5200

There are some holes that one of the previous owners drilled for the transducer. I'll probably just use regular pop rivets here. And plenty of 5200. 5200 on the outside of the rivet too.

I don't mind putting the 5200 around the outside of the rivet, since I'll be covering that area up anyway, with a sheet of plastic to mount transducers to in the future.


The metal trim that is on the outside that accepts the rubber trim.....I'm going to drill out those solid rivets, put the trim on the inside so you can't see it (for strength) and put new solid rivets in. I nothing about these like the stock rivets. There is a guy here in MI that has the tools and know how to install them so I was planning to contact him when it's that time.


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## LonLB (Mar 1, 2011)

Anyhow in summary keep in mind where the rivets are being used, and size accordingly.

For instance on my gunnell, there are some really small rivets, and the head has to be small too, because trim goes over them, and I can't have the rivets holding up the trim.
1/8" rivets with 1/8" grip is what I'm using in those spots.


The framing for the decks, rod boxes etc I'll use 3/16's rivets.


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## LonLB (Mar 2, 2011)

Always a horse trader/deal shopper....
I traded some baits that I have, and a fishing reel, for a Lowrance X125. It doesn't have any cables, but I had extras that will work for that unit.
Score.

Also paid for a Lowrance Globalmap 1000. Pretty old technology but does have a decent base map. Got a good deal on it too IMO. $100 shipped.


I'm going to mount the Globalmap, and an X102c that I have back by the tiller console, and the X125, and a Lowrance H20 on a ram mount up front.
I may buy a card for my H20 this summer....


Hopefully I can talk the wife into an HDS7, or similar Hummingbird next year at tax time.


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## benjineer (Mar 2, 2011)

Nice job shrinking the splashwell. Can't wait to see it finished.


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## LonLB (Mar 13, 2011)

My transom boards are done and ready to go in. Just have to zinc chromate the aluminum and paint it, then install the boards.

Got my floor cut and set in place today. Just to check the fit. I still need to gluvit, cut the foam I have, and rivet the floor down.




My new deadline is End of April.....Why am I not surprised I had to move that back a month.


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## LonLB (Apr 2, 2011)

This is the "Rig" I'm getting the trailer from. With my current trailer, I was going to extend the back end of the trailer so that it extended to the back of the boat. With this one, I won't have to. Plus it's wider and therefore more stable. Also the "new" one has 14" or 15" tires/wheels.
Also has the built in steps/fenders like most bass boat trailers do.

The plan is to sand blast it, paint, new lights/wiring, and if money allows some aluminum wheels and new tires.

This boat will go on my current trailer when I do the swap.


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## DGF (Apr 19, 2011)

Less than two weeks... Tick, tock, tick, tock.


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## DGF (May 6, 2011)

Any updates?


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## LonLB (May 7, 2011)

work schedule is kicking my butt.

It WILL be done, before July, but beyond that I can't say for sure.


Other than that, not much. I'm on the homestretch, but can't find time to get er' done.


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## LonLB (Sep 1, 2011)

Naturally schedules for projects like these are foolish. :twisted: So I am not done, and no longer have a deadline.


I have a question. 
Looking for thoughts on using the aerator pump to pump out the livewell. My idea or plan was to use a valve on the line running from the aerate pump to the livewell. And have a line on the valve that runs to a through hull.

Reason being the way the stringers are built, I was not able to run a drain hose under the floor. And the floors are already in, and fastened.

*Does anyone else use a pump put for their livewell vs a drain? Hate it, like it, comments?*


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## LonLB (Sep 2, 2011)

Need to make a trailer decision soon.

Keep the one I have or switch to another trailer. Switching will cost nothing as my neighbor will trade even up.
Current Trailer.


The Other Trailer.




I'll have the one I use sand blasted.


The current trailer has an advantage in that it is lighter, but especially in that it would be easy to add a swing away tongue. Which I would do.
However, I don't think it's long enough, so I would need to extend it in the rear. I also would want to do a few modifications like built in steps, new fenders, etc.


The "other trailer" will be hard to add a swing-away to. It has larger tires/wheels though (14" vs 13"), built in fenders/steps, and heavier-duty.

I would likely have to modify bunks on this trailer, but would likely do the same to the trailer the boat is on now.

*Which would you choose?*


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## LonLB (Sep 5, 2011)

Well yesterday I got the front deck ready to go in. Added some structural aluminum to catch the hatches when they close. I'll add some additional braces that run to the floor.

This boat originally was setup so people could sit up there. I copied the deck layout, but now have to add a middle section.-that is why there is an odd shaped hatch, and one missing-that I still need to make.

Also got the livewell riveted in place on the one end. I used a rubber tape material between the deck and framing. I'm holding the aluminum to the decking with stainless machine screws and riv nuts, or whatever they are called. Basically a knurled washer/nut combo. I'll trim off the extra  not just leave it.
Before the boat is carpeted, this front deck is going to get padding. I picked up a pack of yoga, or workout mat, tiles, and am going to use those.


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## LonLB (Sep 5, 2011)

ZERO motivation today to do anything but watch movies. Had a late night last night with the family around the fire, then a movie.

Finally I got restless enough that I had to do _something_.

So I made another bow casting deck hatch cover.


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## stone4140 (Sep 11, 2011)

Glad to see your still making posts. I have had to many of those nights around a fire and then wake up with my son bright and early not feeling so bright. Keep the posts coming!!


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## fisherman58 (Sep 12, 2011)

dude nice job i've done half a dozen starcraft boats basicly the same as what your doing. you are doing such a through job i have to tell you that in just a few years you will be replacing that extieor grade plywood i used it once and will never use it again i use MDO ply covered on both sides it is used for signs and concrete forms it holds up very well i've had it in one of the boats 10 years and no signs of rot 3/4 inch goes for 54$ a sheet here in massachusettes thatsabout half of the cost of marine grade and i feel its just as good i just dont want to see all your hard work rot away on you

Glenn


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## LonLB (Sep 12, 2011)

I hope not on the wood. :x 

I think I'll be OK though. It'll be in a garage when I'm not using it, so it'll stay dry. My dad did a boat years ago with el-cheapo pine ply, that was thompsons sealed, and then painted, and it lasted at least 15 years. Was still good when he sold it. Always covered well, or stored in a garage.

I'll keep my fingers crossed.


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## LonLB (Sep 18, 2011)

The boat was never _right_ when on the trailer it was on when I bought it. I figured if I kept it, I would have to do some work, new bunks, and maybe even extending it in the back.

Instead today I got it off the trailer, the other boat off the trailer, and this boat on the bigger trailer.

It isn't just right yet, but with some adjustment will be a much better trailer. Just needs some sandblasting/paint/rollers/winch/jack/lights/wheels. :lol:

Boat on foam...Wife helping, and yard a mess because of football season.



Old trailer.



"New trailer"




Boat on "new trailer" I had to cut off the side bunk/guide on's, and re-adjust the lower bunks. Oddly enough when I removed the side bunks, and was underneath getting foam under the boat, and trying to move the bunks I noticed the wood is like brand new....So I'll just re-carpet it.


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## LonLB (Oct 29, 2011)

So..........
I'll be starting school this winter, and hope to be done in 4 yrs or less. This will be a big financial sacrifice for our family, so that means that some of the nice things I had planned will have to wait.

HOWEVER, I have decided to just use it. Even if it isn't "done" I'm going to have it ready to put in the water and use next spring.


So no 897cSI's or I-pilot trolling motors in my future.



Just being on the water will be great though. I was on the lake today working, and saw a 3-4lb smallie, and a 2.5-3lb largemouth....

Made me wish the boat was done!


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## LonLB (Nov 4, 2011)

This thing had padded vinyl trim panels on the interior gunnel. Those rusty things in the picture below, are the studs that were attached in the panels.


I'm looking for ideas to trim this out, to eliminate the holes, and make it look much nicer.






One of the things I wanted to do is add a tackle box in the bow/stern. The one in the bow would be good to support the transition or gap that is there in the gunnel.
These would be made using vinyl eaves inside to hang long musky lures. And make it removable so I can use it for storage when not musky fishing.

Like this


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## LonLB (Nov 18, 2011)

Not sure if anyone cares to read this anymore, but I'm still pretty pleased with the trolling motor situation.

Found a guy that needs a shorter/smaller trolling motor, and has a Motorguide 70lb thrust 24V motor with 60" shaft. We are going to trade motors, and since mine is 12V, 54lb thrust, and 48" shaft, I think this MG motor will work out much better.

I actually like the cable steer motors, just don't like how big the pedal is. So, looks like I'll need to fab a trolling motor pedal tray up front.


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## Bhockins (Nov 18, 2011)

Great looking project. Messy but the bones look real good. Looks like the kind you'll be really proud of. Looking forward to tracking your progress.


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## bguy (Nov 19, 2011)

LonLB said:


> ZERO motivation today to do anything but watch movies. Had a late night last night with the family around the fire, then a movie.
> 
> Finally I got restless enough that I had to do _something_.
> 
> So I made another bow casting deck hatch cover.


what kind of plastic bin is that or is that something someone can buy at a store . i like that it has a lip and it is square in design.

the build is coming along nicely.... =D>


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## LonLB (Nov 19, 2011)

It is a livewell from a Tracker or Crestliner. Can't remember which. I got it from Great Lakes skipper.


If/when you deal with them, I have found that it is cheaper to buy from their e-bay store. Prices are actually a little higher on E-bay than their website, but total cost with shipping ends up being cheaper.


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## LonLB (Nov 22, 2011)

Soooooo

I still haven't made much progress. Started re-adjusting the trailer bunks and winch stand. I'm welding the bunk brackets in position, because I have a welder wire, and wanted it done, and didn't have the square u-bolts.

Anyhow a bunch of my _stuff_ is piled on the old chest freezer in the garage, so I took a picture. Like a kid taking pictures of his toys. :roll:







Some pop up cleats, flush rod holders, Ram mounts, Lowrance X15mt, and X135, 24 Motorguide trolling motor, two trolling motor harnesses, and old dirty tackle storage/hatch thing, a Lowrance H20 hand held, JBL speakers, and I'm not sure what else.

What this all means to me, is that I should be fishing this spring. Not pictured in that mess is pedestal bases, pedestals, seats, carpet, and probably some other stuff I have.


Actually I need to get cracking on it, because come January I'll be in school fulltime, and since I haven't been in school in going on 15 years, I assume I'll be spending any free time at home studying.


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## LonLB (Nov 23, 2011)

In true bottom feeder fashion, this post is about my excitement in saving about 60 bucks today on the boat.

There was an old Bilge pump in the boat...I was going to pitch it and thought, what the heck I'll try it. Hooked it up to the charger....Noise, but no movement. Got the impeller to move, and lubed it with penetrating oil, and tried it again. Works. In water.....works. SWEET.

And then to top it off, I found a battery box lid on the side of the road, which works out since I have a box, and no lid.


I actually laughed when typing this  :LOL2:


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## Zubes (Nov 26, 2011)

Sometimes it's the little stuff that keeps us sane day to day.

Nice work on the build, keep us updated.


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## LonLB (Nov 27, 2011)

Zubes said:


> Sometimes it's the little stuff that keeps us sane day to day.
> 
> Nice work on the build, keep us updated.




Thanks.  


I've actually been doing some work to the boat over the holiday weekend. (What I could on thursday/friday anyway) Not really worth any new pictures or updates, but nonetheless I'm chipping away at it.

Tomorrow I'll finish putting in the rest of the main floor, install the bilge pump, finish adjusting/welding the trailer bunks, and trim some storage partitions in the bow, to make them work with the new deck setup.

Might even cut some backers for the pop up cleats, and then run the trolling motor wiring.


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## LonLB (Dec 8, 2011)

Got a little done today. Kinda skipped around but stayed busy for 4hours or more.

Got the bulk of a recessed trolling pedal tray built. I'm going to coat it in resin/mat, that I have laying around from a previous boat project.

Those recessed trays are big! I made the thing as small as I could + have a Motorguide pedal (smaller than the Minn Kota) and yet it's still going to be pretty big. #-o 

Sorted through some aluminum I have and started putting a plan in action to get the transom area done. I'm rebuilding the back end because I need the smaller and lower splash well since I'm converting the boat to a tiller.

I'll edit this post with a picture of tonight's master piece.


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## fool4fish1226 (Dec 9, 2011)

Can't wait to see the finished product.


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## Macattack (Dec 15, 2011)

I'm doing a 17' Sylvan. Really enjoyed your posts. Keep up the great work


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## LonLB (Dec 15, 2011)

Macattack said:


> I'm doing a 17' Sylvan. Really enjoyed your posts. Keep up the great work




Ya, I've been watching your boat....Paint looks great. I may go with the same paint scheme, might run the black further down on the side.


I've been working on it each day, at least a little bit.

I'm about ready to start laying carpet.


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## Macattack (Dec 15, 2011)

I'm on vacation for a couple of weeks so I should make some progress. I'm excited to get back to it. After looking at your modifications on the back, I wish I would have done the same. I look forward to your future pics.


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## LonLB (Dec 27, 2011)

I've been working on the boat, but seems like not much progress. Re-did some of the things I had already done to make for a cleaner install.

Started work on the transom area finally, and also made a recessed tray for the trolling motor pedal.






The recessed tray sucked. It's heavy, and a PITA to build. Given more money than time, the way to go is a pre fabbed, or premolded tray. No doubt about it. 
It's going to be carpeted with the rest of the deck, and I'll put a drain in it as well so it doesn't hold water.





My next step it fabbing up the console. A more crude, aluminum version of this.


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## Macattack (Dec 29, 2011)

You've done a lot of work. I wish I would have considered making my splash well smaller. Keep up the great work and can't wait to see more pics.


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## LonLB (Dec 29, 2011)

Well, somehow, I managed to out do myself this time.

I'm on Great Lakes skipper looking at switch panels, and then realize, I built the "dash" panel, and only left room for switches, and a radio cover, but no gauges. #-o 


Anyhow I got the aluminum "console" mounted, and dash panel built. I just need to make some modifications to it. :LOL2: 

Hopefully have a picture of that this afternoon.


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## LonLB (Dec 29, 2011)

Well I figured that my dash will actually be two parts.
The closest to me, when driving will be the radio, ignition, and all the switches.
This is the "console" that I made from a portion of the Starboard console, and Port console.



This is a picture of where the 2nd "dash panel" will be.
Of course it won't have the rectangle cut outs. This is just the radio/switch panel that I sat up there.



And then, this is where the radio/switches/ignition will be.




I have RAM mounts for a Lowrance X135, and handheld Lowrance H20, which I'll mount on top of the console.


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## gillhunter (Dec 29, 2011)

The boat is looking great. =D> The console reminds me of one's I have seen in some Lund models. 

I used to fish Thompson all the time.


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## LonLB (Dec 29, 2011)

gillhunter said:


> The boat is looking great. =D> The console reminds me of one's I have seen in some Lund models.
> 
> I used to fish Thompson all the time.




Small world.....We did too when I was a kid, and the bluegill were on their beds.

That lakes' normal gills, were trophy's on other lakes.


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## LonLB (Dec 30, 2011)

Just kind of mocking up the area.



The panel above the console, will be gauges, the small panel behind the console on side I might put a trolling motor plug, since I have two plugs/trolling motor harnesses.


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## LonLB (Jan 6, 2012)

One of the issues I've had is finding a rivet that I thought would look OK on the _outside_ of the boat.
Something that looked factory, but easy to install-IE. "pop rivets"
I found shave-able rivets online. Stinks I was going to have to pay 30-40 bucks for some rivets, then I remembered buying some of these (before I knew what they were for) from the local RV salvage/surplus. I think I have about 4 bucks into these.

Anyhow, this is what they look like. I'm OK with this.


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## LonLB (Jan 7, 2012)

More on the rivets since someone asked.
This is how the Mandrel breaks off. I guess with a special tool you can break them off flush.




I used a pair of horse grooming pliers or whatever they are to cut the mandrel flush.




Then you just grind/sand them down flush, and smooth.


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## Flatliner (Jan 9, 2012)

This might wet yer whistle a bit. I did practically the same project as a tiller walleye boat to guide with and with a 25 merc L/S she'd do 24mph with me alone in boat 2-12Volt marine batteries up front and a 12V anchor winch w/ 32lb. chain anchor and 24volt T/Motor up front. Best fishing boat I've ever had.Your gonna love it. High sided as she is it has more sail area to get pushed around but,in cold weather you'll be glad. It's deep enough that you've got leeway when deciding on seat height. You'll find it to be a very dry hull design.Running hard in pounding waves you'll be laughing at the spray cast aside.I used it for eveything from Lake Michigan Salmon to Illinois river walleyes And you've got it going with that trailer also A perfect fit for that boat. Good Luck and keep posting. I can't wait to see more.


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## lowblazah (Jan 10, 2012)

LonLB said:


> More on the rivets since someone asked.



Where do you get these type of rivets...I can see where these would be handy.


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## LonLB (Jan 10, 2012)

lowblazah said:


> LonLB said:
> 
> 
> > More on the rivets since someone asked.
> ...




The rivet suppliers will sell them. They are called Shaveable rivets. Anyone who carries them will know what you are talking about. 

The easiest source around me is probably Fastenal.


I've thought about checking to see if the RV place I bought mine at still has them, but I really don't think they do. I just bought some regular long grip rivets there and didn't see any more shaveable rivets.


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## LonLB (Jan 10, 2012)

Flatliner said:


> This might wet yer whistle a bit. I did practically the same project as a tiller walleye boat to guide with and with a 25 merc L/S she'd do 24mph with me alone in boat 2-12Volt marine batteries up front and a 12V anchor winch w/ 32lb. chain anchor and 24volt T/Motor up front. Best fishing boat I've ever had.Your gonna love it. High sided as she is it has more sail area to get pushed around but,in cold weather you'll be glad. It's deep enough that you've got leeway when deciding on seat height. You'll find it to be a very dry hull design.Running hard in pounding waves you'll be laughing at the spray cast aside.I used it for eveything from Lake Michigan Salmon to Illinois river walleyes And you've got it going with that trailer also A perfect fit for that boat. Good Luck and keep posting. I can't wait to see more.




THANKS! Now that is some good info to hear. 

If it does turn out to be that nice I won't have any reason to upgrade to a bigger boat once I'm done with school. Instead I'll just add a Talon, and a couple 898 Humminbirds, and maybe even a Hydrowave. =P~ 


The sail area was one of the reasons I got rid of the trolling motor I had and got the Motorguide. It's on 67lb thrust, from 54lb thrust, but it's 24v too. And I've always heard that the M/G motors seem a bit more "thrusty" than M/K motors.
Also, part of the reason for using the pop up cleats is for using drift socks.

BTW Have you used drift socks? Where is the best place to fasten them to the boat?


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## Zubes (Jan 14, 2012)

When using drift socks for drifting, you are best off attaching one to the bow, and one to the transom. That way it keeps the boat from spinning back and forth and will allow for a nice steady sideways drift.


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## LonLB (Jan 14, 2012)

Zubes said:


> When using drift socks for drifting, you are best off attaching one to the bow, and one to the transom. That way it keeps the boat from spinning back and forth and will allow for a nice steady sideways drift.




If you only had one where would the be the best place to attach it?

What size do you think I would need?



I've never used them, but would like to eventually fish bigger water than I currently do, and am going to be using some things that actually require a drift.
In the past I would just head on into the wind for the most control, using a big trolling motor, and Have even used a kicker to nose into the wind.

I do want to do some slip float drifting for Walleye, and dragging tubes and grubs for Smallmouth.


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## NextTopBassFisherman (Feb 11, 2012)

LonLB said:


> Zubes said:
> 
> 
> > When using drift socks for drifting, you are best off attaching one to the bow, and one to the transom. That way it keeps the boat from spinning back and forth and will allow for a nice steady sideways drift.
> ...


Any more progress?


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## LonLB (Feb 12, 2012)

Yep, got the rear tiller console, and front deck permanently mounted, working on more framing for MORE front deck-got that in, got the livewell in completely and permanently, got a livewell pump working, made the front bow board that is going to have switch panel, trolling motor plug, and depthfinder on it cleaned up the interior gunnel in the spots I've been putting off, used those nice shaveable rivets to fill rail holes in the gunnell, 
Bought some piano hinges, and wiring, working on the rod box...........


I'll post some pictures next week. As soon as it warms back to the 40 degree range I'm going to glue down the casting deck padding and carpet.


This week the goal is to get the rod box DONE, the bow panel in, and done, the casting deck padding down, start on the storage box down the port side, and at least run the trolling motor wiring front and back.

Oh ya, and in case anyone is still reading, I'm going to rip out plaster walls in the dining room, and upstairs bathroom, tear up some hazardous asbestos tile, strip some lead paint, HANG drywall in the two rooms mentioned-including tearing out a closet and framing a new wall to expand the upstairs bathroom, and putting down new subflooring in the dining room/kitchen, and bathroom.
All by this time next week.


And full time school-BUT my wife is doing the unthinkable and supporting us with her paycheck alone.


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## BillG (Feb 16, 2012)

I'm still reading. You are one busy man. I get home from work, sit in the chair with the laptop and read and post about boats. I can't wait for warmer weather and more daylight so I can get back to mine. 

I like what you're doing with your set up. The wife said I had to keep the original design. I really wanted a bass boat.


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## NextTopBassFisherman (Feb 20, 2012)

LonLB said:


> Yep, got the rear tiller console, and front deck permanently mounted, working on more framing for MORE front deck-got that in, got the livewell in completely and permanently, got a livewell pump working, made the front bow board that is going to have switch panel, trolling motor plug, and depthfinder on it cleaned up the interior gunnel in the spots I've been putting off, used those nice shaveable rivets to fill rail holes in the gunnell,
> Bought some piano hinges, and wiring, working on the rod box...........
> 
> 
> ...


Awesome! Do you have any more pics? 
EDIT Saw what you said about pictures in other an other post..... Whoops.........


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## Johny25 (Feb 21, 2012)

Great project and nice job so far. Looking forward to seeing this when done because it is very similar to what I want to get as my next project boat.


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## fishingmich (Feb 29, 2012)

Lon, when you get that thing done, lets do some walleye fishing on the St. Joe! Once I get mine done, I'd be more than happy to take you out on the Maumee in March or April for the monster walleye run. It's awesome! I'll probably have mine done the end of March, maybe the end of April, definitely by July, maybe not, who knows! :mrgreen: JK!


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## never-dull (Jul 26, 2012)

I'm new to this site and just purchased a 1973 12' Sears shallow V that I'm in the process of polishing to a mirrow finish like my 1965 Airstream travel trailer. Not sure if anyone has talked to you about using "Olympic" shavaeble rivets on tin-boats. They're used on fabrication and repair work on Airstream travel trailers. They're available at Vintage Trailer Supply, 800-644-4620. They also carry buck rivets and rivet tools. Hope this was helpful and not old info those interested.


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## NextTopBassFisherman (Feb 2, 2013)

Do you have any more pictures!?


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