# Bus Bar



## Cheeseball (Nov 5, 2008)

Hi All,

I am rigging my jon with nav lights, onboard lights, and a bilge pump. All of these will be connected to a 20 amp fused switch panel. I will also connect a tm to the same battery but on its own circuit. My question is, would it be ok to make +/- bus bars for the lights and bilge pump out of 1/2" copper pipe mounted on a non conductive material?


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## Captain Ahab (Nov 8, 2008)

Cheese ball - How are you going to do this with a copper pipe - i am confused?


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## Popeye (Nov 8, 2008)

Sure a copper pipe will work for a bus bar, to an extent. It is thinner than a solid bus bar would be so you couldn't thread the holes. If you are using nuts on the back side it would be okay. Be careful, if you over tighten the nuts you run the risk of squishing (technical electrical term) the pipe and loosening the connections though. To get around that you could flatten the pipe first and then drill holes for your screws. Personally I would recommend a solid piece of copper stock with threaded holes so you won't have to need to gain access to the back to remove the nuts.


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## Popeye (Nov 8, 2008)

Just thought of another way with the pipe (still flattened) that you wouldn't need to access the back when disconnecting loads. Screw goes in from the back, flat washer and nut on the front and then a second nut holds the terminal lug on the stud. You will still need fuses for individual circuits.


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## Waterwings (Nov 8, 2008)

FH, I like the tech term "squishing", lol. Our tech term in the shops was "get a bigger hammer!"


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## Popeye (Nov 8, 2008)

Sure, get a bigger hammer so you can squish it. :lol: :lol:


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## Waterwings (Nov 8, 2008)




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## Popeye (Nov 8, 2008)

Waterwings said:


>



That's not a hammer.

*THIS* is a hammer!


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## ben2go (Nov 8, 2008)

Why not just get a couple buss bars from a local electric supplier?They wouldn't need to be very big.Sometimes solid copper stock can be found at hobby stores and craft shops.


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## Cheeseball (Nov 8, 2008)

Captain Ahab said:


> Cheese ball - How are you going to do this with a copper pipe - i am confused?



Like this.






Flounderhead, I didn't think about how thin the wall of the pipe would be. Don't ya think I could screw into holes with out tapping, since it is so thin?


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## Cheeseball (Nov 8, 2008)

ben2go said:


> Why not just get a couple buss bars from a local electric supplier?They wouldn't need to be very big.Sometimes solid copper stock can be found at hobby stores and craft shops.



I've yet to find one at a local shop. The ones online I've been looking at are about $20+, I have a hard time spending good cash on something that I could make myself out of stuff I have laying around. (I'm a bigtime pack rat)

But, I may for the sake of making things easy break down and buy one.


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## ben2go (Nov 8, 2008)

I agree.$20 is a bit much for a single buss.


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## Popeye (Nov 8, 2008)

Cheeseball said:


> Captain Ahab said:
> 
> 
> > Cheese ball - How are you going to do this with a copper pipe - i am confused?
> ...



The problem I think you will run into is that you will be hard pressed to get the screws tight enough without stripping the thin wall (copper being a soft metal) and there is less screw being gripped by the copper that your connections will loosen up easily.


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## Popeye (Nov 8, 2008)

By making a little change to your drawing I am showing a flattened pipe with screws inserted from the back and a washer and double hex nuts on the front. Terminal lugs for your loads would go between the hex nuts.


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## Cheeseball (Nov 9, 2008)

Hmm... yes I think I will go that route. Thanks flounder!


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## Truckmechanic (Feb 15, 2010)

I know this is a old topic...If cheeseball is still around, did this work or did you buy already manufactured parts?


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## Cheeseball (Mar 13, 2010)

Yes, I'm still here, progress on my boat is going slow but I have made a little head way on the buss side project. Here's what I've come up with so far. 

I still need to hammer the pipe flat and drill holes for the studs, but you get the idea.






Another angle...






These two SS self tapping screws will screw in to back side of the back seat, under a deck.






This is the cover






Here's the buss bar with the cover slid on.






I'll post more pics when I get it installed.


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## dyeguy1212 (Mar 13, 2010)

=D> =D>


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## Cheeseball (Mar 14, 2010)

Finished project. Made two of these one for positive one for negative for about $7.


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## Popeye (Mar 15, 2010)

Sure looks like it will do the job of a bus bar. Is the wire hammered into the copper pipe? What if you need to replace it?


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## Truckmechanic (Mar 15, 2010)

I like it....How are you going to fasten in to the boat? Where did you get the plastic bolts holding it together?


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## Cheeseball (Mar 16, 2010)

Popeye: Yes, the wire is hammered into the pipe. I hadn't thought that far ahead about replacing it. I guess I would drill a hole in the end and bolt a new one on.

Truck: Look at the pic below. I'll mount the pos and neg busses approximately where the little white box is on the seat. The whole back open area will be covered with a deck that will be level with the top of the seat. The battery will be back there as well. I got the nylon bolts at a hardware store near where I live. But I'm sure you can find them at HD or Lowes.


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## jasper60103 (Mar 18, 2010)

Cheeseball, 
thanks for sharing. I'm adding electric start to my outboard and want to keep my 
battery near the bow. Thanks again for the idea.


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## Cheeseball (Mar 19, 2010)

jasper60103 said:


> Cheeseball,
> thanks for sharing. I'm adding electric start to my outboard and want to keep my
> battery near the bow. Thanks again for the idea.



No problem my friend. Happy moding!


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