# 1970 Ouachita 14' V-hull Modification



## mcbassluvin (Apr 22, 2010)

My buddy and I finally started our V-hull modification. We got most of our ideas from this site and users. Thx so much for all the great info.
I'm attaching draft design and the before pics for now. Will post more as we make progress.


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## mcbassluvin (Apr 22, 2010)

_Removed_


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## UtahBassKicker (Apr 22, 2010)

The plans look good. Any way we could get some more clear pictures?


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## mcbassluvin (Apr 22, 2010)

I will definitely get better pictures. My buddy and I were working on this late with lighting on camera being poor. I will update with new pics over the weekend. Thx for viewing.


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## mcbassluvin (Apr 25, 2010)

better pictures uploaded...progress is slow....got front bow deck carpeted and trolling motor mount on...much more work to do.


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## mcbassluvin (Apr 26, 2010)

Before pics:

















Plans:


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## mcbassluvin (Apr 26, 2010)

Slow progress:


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## mcbassluvin (Apr 26, 2010)

I've been looking through the other mod projects but haven't really found much content on suggestions for mounting the bow deck onto the boat. The old deck was mounted using screws into the boat hull. I'm thinking of maybe bolting in from outside lip of hull to a support bracket underneath. Does anyone have any tips on best way to mount the bow deck on this???


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## bassunpro (Apr 27, 2010)

Hey there, nice pictures and nice layout you got there, i'm really liking it. I'm also looking forward to doing the samething. I'm just wondering, is it safe to drill into the boat?


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## mcbassluvin (Apr 28, 2010)

I think that it depends the boat and what and where your drilling. I'm planning on either anchoring deck into the lip (don't know official term) from top or from outside in. On my boat, that lip is hollow and pretty strong and should not be at a point to where it's under water. i'll seal it with 3M 5200 regardless of position. I'm very sensitive to drilling into the boat based on past experience with riveted jon boats and I don't plan on any drilling into hull of boat except for the top lip on my boat.


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## mcbassluvin (May 3, 2010)

More pics. We had a setback on build. Had to switch out from 3/4" ply to 1/2" due to weight. Big difference. Saving us about 40+lbs.
This project has to be finished by this weekend...so should get all the pics uploaded by next week.
Transom repair finished and sealed and now working on decks and seat locations.


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## mcbassluvin (May 10, 2010)

Finally got all the major work done before this weeks maiden voyage. I know it's not pretty (no paint or clean transom work) but should be functional and dry.
Here are the updated pics:


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## Froggy (May 10, 2010)

Nice work, how does she handle?


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## mcbassluvin (May 10, 2010)

Thx for comment. 1st test coming tomorrow and rest of week. Have a 6HP Tohatsu that will be driving it. will let you know how it goes.....keeping my fingers crossed. Will leak test transom today before departing in the AM. I'm definitely amatuer with boating but think with all the useful info I go on this site....it should go well...I hope


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## King Rat (May 10, 2010)

mcbassluvin said:


> Finally got all the major work done before this weeks maiden voyage. I know it's not pretty (no paint or clean transom work) but should be functional and dry.
> Here are the updated pics:
> View attachment 4
> 
> ...


 =P~ SHARP i like want one like that but have not
been able to find one 4 seal ; but i'm looking 4
a16' and 24" dp . I have a 14' now 1960 Outhacita 32" bottom
pics when complet


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## Macgyver (May 11, 2010)

I don't guess anyone else is going to say it , so I will. first , you shouldn't use treated lumber against aluminum as it will cause corrosion. second, the OSB board you used on the transom isn't going to hold up no matter how much sealer you put on it. other than that , looks good , nice build! oh and BTW bolting into the gunwale is fine, you can also screw to the ribs inside the hull as long as the screws aren't too long.


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## mcbassluvin (May 17, 2010)

Thx Macgyver. After getting the treated lumber and cuts done...i did see other posts about corrosion.....I plan on finding something to put in between aluminum and wood where I can. The project had to be done by last week and had limited work time before fishing trip so had no time to start transome work over with new lumber. As far as transom, I have 3/4" ply behind the OSD board....needed another 1/2" of thickness in addition to the 3/4" ply.


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## mcbassluvin (May 17, 2010)

As far as boat on the water, had a late setback departure with a small crack in the hull...think this could have been done during boat mod....but with some JB Weld...was able to get in water without any leaks. With all my gear and myself....GPS top speed was avg 9.5 with 10mph max. Fished on boat for past 5 days and all went pretty well. Was nice having the rear seat pedestal drop down to deck height for driving. One flaw was having the front seat that far forward..needed about 6-8 inches further back as foot control was little closer to seat than I expected.


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## Froggy (May 18, 2010)

Definitly like to lower the back seat while traveling!!


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## alumacraft716 (May 19, 2010)

how did you secure the trolling motor deck?


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## mcbassluvin (May 20, 2010)

I used this bracket: https://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Hardware-Fasteners-Metal-Stock/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xh7Zar1m/R-100337462/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Cut 3 small pieces for each side about 8 inches long and bolted 1/4" bolts with washers/locknuts into gunwhale. It is very secure. 
So I have 6 bolts per side into gunwhale and 3 bolts on deck into bracket.


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## CaliBass (Dec 23, 2012)

hey on you picture of your framework right underneath the motorguide picture you posted did you drill into the bottom of the boat?


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