# New Boat - Alumacraft 1648 NCS



## wmk0002 (May 14, 2016)

I just picked up a brand new boat this morning from the dealer. It is an Alumacraft 1648 NCS with the short transom on a Tennessee trailer. This is the first new boat I have ever purchased and it is really nice to have a blank canvas to go forward with. I'm a pretty poor photographer but here are a few pictures.

















My plans for this boat are very simple, but I will track whatever mods and rigging I do in this thread. Right now the only true modifications I would like to do would be to put in an aluminum floor, a custom hatch in the opening on the rear deck, and do a nice hydroturf install. Rigging will include the basic stuff for now including installing and wiring up a trolling motor, navigation lights, bilge, and putting in seat pedestal bases, rod holders, etc.

I already have a bigger tin bass boat, but bought this one with the plans to fish a couple 10hp restricted lakes that are very close to my house plus use this boat in some skinny water I would rather not risk my other boat. I have a few motor options as I have a 1967 Evinrude 9.5hp, 1982 Evinrude 9.9hp, 1982 Evinrude 15hp, and 1959 Evinrude 35hp (35hp is the boats max rating). The condition of the 35hp is kind of unknown as it has sat for a while but the other 3 all run and have good compression numbers.


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## Slough Runner (May 14, 2016)

Sweet boat. I went with the MV NCS. I miss the room I had on my old one though. I had a flat before the one I'm building now. Good luck with the build...you've got a great boat to start it with. Check my thread if your looking for ideas. I just installed a flooring like hydroturf. It worked out great.


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## CedarRiverScooter (May 15, 2016)

Sweet boat, same one as mine.

You might want to consider 1.5 inch thick foam board between the bottom ribs, before putting the floor down. Will be a little quieter when hitting waves & somewhat supports floor. Water still drains thru the channels. 

Another easy mod is 1/4 floor underlayment plywood over the gunwale ribs. Paint it both sides.


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## wmk0002 (May 16, 2016)

Slough Runner said:


> Sweet boat. I went with the MV NCS. I miss the room I had on my old one though. I had a flat before the one I'm building now. Good luck with the build...you've got a great boat to start it with. Check my thread if your looking for ideas. I just installed a flooring like hydroturf. It worked out great.



Thanks! I have checked in on your thread here and there lately and it has been great to follow. 

I got the flatbottom primarily for the little extra room in the front and for the perfectly flat floor. I want to keep it nice and open so it will be safe and stable for my my two year old twin boys. I don't plan to take them out anytime real soon but hopefully they can start going next summer.


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## wmk0002 (May 16, 2016)

CedarRiverScooter said:


> Sweet boat, same one as mine.
> 
> You might want to consider 1.5 inch thick foam board between the bottom ribs, before putting the floor down. Will be a little quieter when hitting waves & somewhat supports floor. Water still drains thru the channels.
> 
> Another easy mod is 1/4 floor underlayment plywood over the gunwale ribs. Paint it both sides.



I will for sure put foam down under the floor. My ultimate goal is to use pour foam there and when I do the mold ensure I keep the channels clear and to top it with the thinnest possible aluminum floor (the pour foam is more supportive than the foam board from what I understand). However, for now, I am going to do a temporary floor and use the foam board you mentioned and top it with a heavy duty rubber mat.


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## wmk0002 (May 16, 2016)

I think my first order of business needs to be installing the trolling motor mount and trolling motor. Like I mentioned, most of my motors run and are in decent shape but they are also relatively new to me and I haven't used them in the water but a couple of times...so I need TM power as backup for my first few times out.

I got the cheap Alumacraft TM mount from the dealer. It is a very simple design, and really doesn't look like it will last IMO. It seems like it will not resist some of the twisting the TM will create when directing it to the sides. For now though, that is what I will go with. I can probably beef it up considerably with a few simple additions after I see it in use and see how it needs to be additionally supported. Here are some pics of the mount sitting on the boat in the approximate mounting location.































So my question on the install is what exactly is the deck composition under the first layer of sheet metal on these boats? From what I could tell by looking/feeling up under the front storage compartment it appears to have 3/4 plywood under there. Is there then another layer of sheet metal? If it is a layup of sheet metal, wood, sheet metal do you think I should go with 1' or 1 1/4" sheet metal screws and just make sure and go through both layers of metal? Or just use heavy duty wood screws into the plywood?

Then also, any recommendations for the front fasteners where it attaches to the gunnel/gunwhale? I was thinking just doing SS nuts/bolts and going completely through it or simply just riveting it on.


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## wmk0002 (May 16, 2016)

While I'm on here, here is what a little 15hp Evinrude looks like on a 1648. The size of the boat makes the motor look absolutely tiny.


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## -CN- (May 16, 2016)

I love the Alumacraft NCS boats! Got the 1442 right now and want to go to the 1648 soon. Clean slate with lots of floor space is excellent.


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## Catch Release Repeat (May 16, 2016)

There is a layer of 3/4 board under there. My front mount it actually over the very back of the storage compartment so I used SS Bolts nuts and washers. The back base I used wood screws and pre drilled the aluminum. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## wmk0002 (May 16, 2016)

Catch Release Repeat said:


> There is a layer of 3/4 board under there. My front mount it actually over the very back of the storage compartment so I used SS Bolts nuts and washers. The back base I used wood screws and pre drilled the aluminum.



I appreciate it. I will install the pedestal bases as soon as I get the trolling motor mounted and follow your advice.


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## wmk0002 (May 19, 2016)

I got most of the hardware I need last night. A couple of days ago I emailed Alumacraft and a rep responded that he recommended riveting the TM mount to the round gunwhale up front and using wood screws for anything that attaches to the decking which has plywood underneath it (like others mentioned here). However, I couldnt find any large wood screws without a tapered, countersunk head which I don't need/want for the TM mount, so I will go with some long sheet metal screws and ensure they pass all the way through any aluminum which may be on the underside of the plywood.

To topic of my pedestal bases, I already ordered some nice 7" x 7" Springfield bases that were on sale from iboats which I really like. But I also ordered some other unique ones directly from Springfield's scratch and dent site for somewhere along the lines of $10 each. Check these out below.





















They are 7" x 10", with two pedestal inserts that are 5" apart. Im contemplating using one of these for the front deck base as it would allow me to have two slightly different seating positions up front by placing it so the pin holes line up bow/stern. I guess 5" may not make that much of a difference but I really don't know. The potential downside is that it will reguire drilling two large holes plus fastener holes and it may be hard to find a matching size 2 hole base in the future if this one gets damaged or the bushing wears out. I'm gonna have to think about this a little while before I decide.


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## wmk0002 (May 24, 2016)

I got the TM bracket and trolling motor installed this past weekend. I went with the advice from an Alumacraft rep and riveted the front to the gunwale with the biggest rivets Lowes or Home Depot seemed to carry, 3/16" Aluminum ones. For the rear, I used #14 sheet metal screws. The TM I have is a Motorguide Freshwater Series 46 lb thrust and I mounted it to the bracket with 1/4" SS nuts/bolts. I can get some pics today after work to add. I have to admit it is much sturdier than I thought it would be. Time will be the ultimate test though.


Yesterday evening I also put the boat in the water for the first time. I had my 15 hp Evinrude on it and had my 9.5 hp Evinrude in the boat to also try out. The boat is still pretty bare but I threw in a group 29 battery from my other boat to run the TM (temporarily wired up with alligator clips), my dry box from my other boat with some emergency supplies and tools, my tackle box, 4 or 5 rods/reels, and a couple life jackets. My gas tank only had about 2 gallons in it. I was trying it out with my dad. We both are about 160 lbs. 

First trial with the 15hp was a failure. It only got up to 6 or 7 mph and never close to on plane. I was kind of worried at this point thinking my plans of running a 9.9/15 hp on this hull were crazy, despite me knowing that the 15 hp has some carb issues.

Next I trailered it and swapped over to the 9.5 hp. This motor itself isn't in prime running condition either due to an exhaust leak and running a little hot so I wasn't expecting much from it either. However, punching it WOT it took off pretty well and got pretty much on plane and ran 15 mph and turned about 4600 rpms. So now I was happy again lol. I still have a 9.9 hp Evinrude to try which seems to run much better than the 15 hp in a barrel...I just have to swap their lower units to convert it from longshaft to short. Fingers crossed the 9.9 runs good and gets me a little faster and more fully on plane.


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## wmk0002 (May 24, 2016)

The trolling motor bracket seemed more sturdy on the water. When I dropped the TM down on the trailer and pushed on the head side to side it seemed to twist the bracket slightly which had me a little worried. But with it dropped down into the water I didn't notice that at all. And 46lb of thrust seemed to be plenty for a boat this size. On the higher speeds it would whip the front end around like it was nothing and could throw you out if not careful. I think it will be perfect.

Regarding the general stability of the boat, I was seriously impressed with it. I was getting on the far back corners of the boat fiddling with the motors' trim angles and it was barely leaning. I didn't get a true measurement but it seemed to only be drafting maybe 3" of water.


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## wmk0002 (May 27, 2016)

I promise I will post some pics soon but I have been busy messing with my outboard. I am trying to convert my 9.9 hp long shaft to short. I thought it was going to be a simple procedure swapping my 15hp short shaft LU unit with the 9.9's longshaft one....but the 9.9 has some corrosion and the driveshaft is stuck in the motor. I'm letting some PB Blaster soak down the shaft into the splines. So I guess in the meantime I can get back to the boat.

I found a local building material store that carries 1 1/2" thick foam board so I am leaving work a little early to grab a sheet. And then stopping by TSC to get some of the stall mat they sell. Hopefully I can get that floor installed, my front seat pedestal base, and my motor converted to short shaft over the long weekend. This is one of those times when it's nice to have a second boat lol.


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## wmk0002 (Jun 11, 2016)

Ok, here are some pics of the above progress plus some new stuff.

Here is the installed TM mount as mentioned above.

Riveted to the front gunnel:





Sheet metal screws attaching it to the deck:















The picture above also shows my 7"x7" Springfield Kingpin pedestal base installed. It is mounted over the small storage area under the front deck so I was able to use 1/4-20 machine screws along with fender washers and locking nuts to secure it down. I used 2" long screws which are a little too long, one bolt bent somehow before snugging it down, and I used oval head screws instead of flat ones so I'm going to replace them soon or at least the next time I am at the hardware store.
















I also got the 1 1/2" foam board cut and put down between the ribs and then topped with some 3/8" horse stall mat from Tractor Supply. It performs well like others had said and am happy with how it turned out. Now it gets scalding hot in the sun but the aluminum decks do too, so until I get some Hydroturf down on the decks, I probably won't worry about making it "cooler". In the event I Hydroturf the decks before getting an aluminum floor installed, I will get some cheap outdoor carpet to lay down over it and just let my tackle hold it down when trailering.
















Next up, I got the below bow stop from etrailer.com. The trailer came with a basic roller which was fine but this one seems more fitting. 






As you can see it needs to be raised some on the bow. But as these pictures hopefully show, the front bow bunk on the trailer also needs to be moved forward to allow the flat bottom sit sit totally flush on the rear bunks. Hopefully doing this will put the bow stop in a good position plus the boat will be more evenly supported.






Last thing...right now I have my old 9.5hp Sportwin mounted on the boat. My 15hp needs a carb kit and I am trying to unsieze the longshaft driveshaft on my 9.9hp in order to convert it to a short for this boat. 

With the motor mounted directly on the transom the anti-vent plate was probably 2" too low. I shimmed it up maybe 3/4" with a piece of scrap wood. It can go up another 1/2" or so and barely grab the top of the transom but may still not be enough. I guess I need to consider a mini jacker or something along those lines. I'm welcome to suggestions on how to approach this.


























That's all for now. I'm going to take it out this evening to test out the new motor position and this will also be the first time on the new floor on the water.


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## mrdrh99 (Jun 11, 2016)

Sweet boat...I think a 1648 will be my next purchase.... What about the 35hp?


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## beagler1 (Jun 11, 2016)

Are there sny supports under that front bow deck? I got the same bost just different configuration.








Sent from Mossy Oak Swamp Bottom


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## beagler1 (Jun 11, 2016)

Same prob with my outboard. Its through bolted tho.









Sent from Mossy Oak Swamp Bottom


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## wmk0002 (Jun 12, 2016)

mrdrh99 said:


> Sweet boat...I think a 1648 will be my next purchase.... What about the 35hp?



I haven't messed with the 35hp at all yet. Right now I'm just trying rig it out the best I can and get one of these 3 smaller motors going for use on a new lake they are opening near me which has a 10hp limit. As soon as I get at least one of these going good, I'll move onto the 35hp...at least that's the plan.


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## wmk0002 (Jun 12, 2016)

beagler1 said:


> Are there sny supports under that front bow deck? I got the same bost just different configuration.



I can't really tell from what I did. It has 3/4" plywood in there and the bottom layer of aluminum under the wood was also a good bit thicker than the sheet metal that covers the top. But I put the seat mount directly over the storage area which is totally open, with no extra visible supports under the deck in it.


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## wmk0002 (Jun 13, 2016)

While I don't plan on addressing the potential need for a jack plate anytime soon as I have higher priority issues, I do retract my statement on the mini-jacker being a likely choice. Seems too 1 dimensional for the price. The Bob's Machine Shop mini manual jackplate seems much better as it has 3 different set-back settings plus height adjustment. Per my query to Bob's Machine Shop on it:

_The jack plate has 2.5" of built in lift and another 1.5" of adjustable lift.

We do not have any dealers by you, but you are welcomed to buy direct.

Please let me know if you have any additional questions.

Thank you for your interest in Bobs Machine Shop._ 

Alternatively, the homemade route is appealing to me like the one in the link. I don't have the machining ability nor resources but have a few friends in the business who may can help if their employers policy allows it. Anyone know what the approximate stock material cost would be for this one? Hate to spend lots of money on material, the plans, plus labor and come out the same as just buying one.

https://www.dillon-racing.com/jackplate/

EDIT: Just realized the jack plate is made of just large but basic angle aluminum and simple hand tools. That I can do myself.


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## wmk0002 (Jun 17, 2016)

Here is a very poor video I shot the other day of me running the old Sportwin on the boat. In the front of the boat I have the TM, TM battery, front seat, and tackle box. In the middle I had 3 rods/reels, an empty cooler, and my stall mat floor. And in the rear was just me at 165 lbs and maybe 3 gallons of gas. Had the motor trimmed to its highest position and ran in without the hood to mitigate an exhaust leak. It ran 15mph very consistently and would touch 16 if I leaned it out to about 1/2 out from lightly seated (but idle quality took a hit). Motor was turning about 4700 rpms (5000 listed as max of the WOT range). I ran it set up similarly prior to that with my dad in it as well, who is about my size, and saw 15 mph there also. 

I just got my 9.9 hp driveshaft unseized and also rebuilt the carb on my 15 hp so I'm eager to see what performance increase I see since both have higher rpm operating ranges and larger props. I would be super happy with 20 mph with two people.

https://www.youtube.com/embed/_UfTqvTL3NM


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## beagler1 (Jun 17, 2016)

My 20hp hauls azz. Im 350, wife is 170 full tank of gas, 2 batteries, yeti cooler and tackle box!


Sent from Mossy Oak Swamp Bottom


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## wmk0002 (Jul 21, 2016)

Time for a motor update. I got the 9.9 hp converted to a short shaft and put it on the boat. On the water it ran about 15 mph at 4900 rpms with me and my dad and a light load. With just me it ran 5400 rpms and did 17mph. This was with a decent shape factory 9.25x10 3 blade prop. It's not a pretty motor but it runs well.

Later I put the 15hp carb on it and lake tested it and only gained 1 mph and a couple hundred rpms. This motor needs the exhaust tube and reed shims to make it a true 15hp plus I think the main jet is slightly oversized being a size 56 but needing a 54 according to the service manual. Not sure how much all of that would help but it needs to hit 6000 rpms to generate the rated 15hp from the power curve.

I also picked up yet another new motor last night lol. It is a 1992 Johnson 9.9 hp, but with a 15 hp carb. From my understanding, these later models used the tuned exhaust and reed shims on both 9.9 and 15 models, I would imagine for cost savings during assembly. It was what I thought to be a really good deal... was super clean, had even 110 psi compression, and ran well on muffs. Another huge factor to me was the cable throttle system on these models. The gear driven one on my 82 models is as terrible as I have read. Hopefully this can be a motor I keep for the long haul and can sell off a couple of the others to offset the price.


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## Stubborn Dutchman (Jul 22, 2016)

Very nice looking rig. I hope you have lots of fun with it and your family. =D>


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## wmk0002 (Jul 22, 2016)

Stubborn Dutchman said:


> Very nice looking rig. I hope you have lots of fun with it and your family. =D>



Thanks!


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## wmk0002 (Jul 28, 2016)

I just ordered a hatch from Fish On Fabrications (site sponsor and member) to fit the rear deck opening. I left the dimensions about 5" short to allow for the transom clamps and for cables, wiring, and fuel lines to pass through. I ordered it with a lock on each side. With the gap it wont be totally secured but it will protect my gas tank and battery, which are actually worth $150-200 (although most thieves don't seem to mess with them from the stories I have heard). It will probably be a month before I receive that so in the meantime I am going to try to do some electrical. I have a new Helix 5 SI/GPS just sitting at home I need to install and really want some navigation lights so I can get out at night to beat this heat. Its been miserable here lately and this OD green bare metal starts baking you after about 8 AM.


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## perchjerker (Jul 28, 2016)

wmk0002 said:


> mrdrh99 said:
> 
> 
> > Sweet boat...I think a 1648 will be my next purchase.... What about the 35hp?
> ...



the boat looks great but wait...

"new lake they are opening near me"

what is this about? Do they build lakes near you like they build department stores? LOL

I never heard of that before up my way


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## wmk0002 (Jul 28, 2016)

perchjerker said:


> wmk0002 said:
> 
> 
> > mrdrh99 said:
> ...



Ha, never realized how that sounded! But yes, they (the powers that be?) decided that the area I live needed another water source for drinking water for the sustainable future. We already have another small lake which is a dedicated water source and has a 10hp limit plus additional rules against swimming/wading, docks, chemicals usage in the watershed, etc. The addition of this lake was actually very controversial, not only because it displaced a few homes and family land, but because it is in the heart of rich agricultural area and now those farmers in the watershed have way more EPA red tape to jump through.

This one will be 650 acres and is about halfway between my house and the current lake so I can be to the ramp in less than 10 minutes. I believe the dam was completed last fall and they were expecting it to be to full pool by late this fall, however, this past Christmas we had torrential rains and the lake practically filled in a week or so. It's pretty crazy to think about actually....640 acres becoming covered by up to 100' of water in a matter of days. 

They stocked bass and bluegill this spring plus the river already had fish present. The boat ramp is already built and there is a biking/hiking trail around the perimeter. It's still closed to the public (aside from the trails) as they finish up stuff around the dam but they plan to open it up this fall. Of course fishing will suck for a couple of years but I am eager to get out there and start marking waypoints and maybe try out Humminbird's Autochart program and build my own map. Having it so close will also be incredibly nice as I can fish it easily after work and it will make it easier to quickly run over and test out small motors which I enjoy working on...plus I think it will end up being a good fishing lake when it's said and done judging by what all brush piles and cover they left before flooding.

Here's a link to the project site if anyone is curious.
https://www.duckriver.org/


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## perchjerker (Jul 29, 2016)

that's really cool.

where do you live? I do not see it in your profile.


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## BigTerp (Jul 29, 2016)

wmk0002 said:


> I just ordered a hatch from Fish On Fabrications (site sponsor and member) to fit the rear deck opening. I left the dimensions about 5" short to allow for the transom clamps and for cables, wiring, and fuel lines to pass through. I ordered it with a lock on each side. With the gap it wont be totally secured but it will protect my gas tank and battery, which are actually worth $150-200 (although most thieves don't seem to mess with them from the stories I have heard). It will probably be a month before I receive that so in the meantime I am going to try to do some electrical. I have a new Helix 5 SI/GPS just sitting at home I need to install and really want some navigation lights so I can get out at night to beat this heat. Its been miserable here lately and this OD green bare metal starts baking you after about 8 AM.



You'll love those hatches. I got a hatch frame and 3 hatch lids that span from port to starboard on my bow deck and a hatch with drop in liner for my rear bench from FOF. Quality stuff!! It was really nice that I could measure and determine the specs needed and they were made to order.


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## wmk0002 (Jul 29, 2016)

perchjerker said:


> that's really cool.
> 
> where do you live? I do not see it in your profile.



Cullman, Alabama which is in the northern part of the state.


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## perchjerker (Jul 29, 2016)

ok thanks

I went to that website but could not figure out the state from a brief look at it

looks a cool project!


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## wmk0002 (Jul 29, 2016)

perchjerker said:


> ok thanks
> 
> I went to that website but could not figure out the state from a brief look at it
> 
> looks a cool project!



It's definitely been neat to watch the progress of it all.


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## wmk0002 (Jul 29, 2016)

BigTerp said:


> wmk0002 said:
> 
> 
> > I just ordered a hatch from Fish On Fabrications (site sponsor and member) to fit the rear deck opening. I left the dimensions about 5" short to allow for the transom clamps and for cables, wiring, and fuel lines to pass through. I ordered it with a lock on each side. With the gap it wont be totally secured but it will protect my gas tank and battery, which are actually worth $150-200 (although most thieves don't seem to mess with them from the stories I have heard). It will probably be a month before I receive that so in the meantime I am going to try to do some electrical. I have a new Helix 5 SI/GPS just sitting at home I need to install and really want some navigation lights so I can get out at night to beat this heat. Its been miserable here lately and this OD green bare metal starts baking you after about 8 AM.
> ...



Thanks. I'm pretty excited...I just hope I took good measurements!


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## wmk0002 (Aug 1, 2016)

I got to try out the new motor yesterday. That thing is so much more powerful than the older 9.9 I have. With the same load and 2 guys the 9.9 was doing only 14-15mph @4900 rpms with a 10" prop. With this 15hp and a 8" pitch prop we were hovering right at 19mph @6800 rpms. I will have to see how the 10" prop works on this motor as I need to get the rpms down a few hundred plus it is way underpitched for a single person. Hopefully I can get it propped to run 23-24 with just me and at least 20 with 2 guys with a single prop...then save the 8 pitch for 3 or more guys which will be rare.


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## wmk0002 (Mar 14, 2017)

Man, it has been forever since I posted in this thread. Really, I haven't made much more progress. Just used the boat as it was pretty heavily throughout the fall and occasionally this winter. I primed and painted the hatch, however, I never installed it. I also never installed the rear pedestal base. One thing I did do was install my Helix fish finder and transducer. I also cut and painted a sheet of aluminum to act as a floor in the stern area where the gas tank and battery will go. 

I will get some pictures up with details soon.


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## wmk0002 (Mar 21, 2017)

This is a mod I did last fall that I failed to document on here. Luckily I took a few pics during the process and they were saved to my Photobucket.

This mod was adding a small floor to the small space in the stern where the gas tank, battery, and a few other things go or will go. As you can see the area has a 1 & 1/2" rib right in the middle. Also (not sure if the picture portrays it) but try to notice that the right side wall is a little crooked which made cutting the floor to fit a little harder.






The hardest part of this was simply getting material. For whatever reason, my dad happened to have a road sign in his barn. I believe one of my brother's friends grabbed it and somehow it ended up at my parents' house. Anyways, it was fairly thick aluminum so I just decided to use it since it was free. I cut it to fit using a jigsaw and metal cutting blade and filed the edges by hand. I cut a notch in the rear middle to allow for room to install the plug and to add a bilge and possibly thru-hull livewell pump.






I cut it so the sign face would be down so I could paint the bare aluminum back side. I lightly sanded the aluminum and cleaned it but probably didn't prep it as I should. I used self etching primer first and then painted it with a can of factory touch up paint I got from my dealer for free. I don't have a good picture so just reference one farther down.

The idea was to attach the floor directly to the rib in the middle as well as to the two angled transom braces and add a support for the front edge. For the front support, I ripped a 2x4 stud in half (or whatever dimension aligned with the height of the rib). Then I coated it in many coats of spar urethane. Then I simply attached it to the underside front of the floor with a few sheet metal screws.











Here is what it looked like with some of the fasteners in. The gap in the upper right hand corner reflect the misalignment of the side wall I mentioned. The board I used as a brace in the front is not attached to the boat anywhere. Te flooring is pretty rigid plus the weight of the battery holds it down. So far I have not noticed any vibrations coming from it when underway. The grommet in the top middle is for the power leads for my Humminbird Helix 5 I now have mounted on the rear deck. 






Here it is with the remaining fasteners in and my 3 gallon fuel tank and battery box dropped in. I have since fastened the battery box down. I am happy with the results...I still have room for a bus bar, aerator, bilge, a 6 gallon tank if needed, and a dry storage box for things like tools/emercengy supplies/etc. I have a hatch for this area I got from Fish On Fabrications which is already primed and painted and ready to be installed and which will be my next task.


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## RedHatRedNeck (May 11, 2017)

Wondering if you could provide 2 measurements if still possible. What is the length to where the original front deck stops from the bow and how far between end of front deck to front of rear seat? Thanks.


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## Catch Release Repeat (May 12, 2017)

Bow nose to edge of front deck





Overall length between decks 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## RedHatRedNeck (May 12, 2017)

Awesome thank you.


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## wmk0002 (Apr 20, 2018)

I need to go back through this and update all my pictures! Photbucket's new policy really wrecked a lot of good threads in various forums.


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## wmk0002 (Jul 19, 2018)

wmk0002 said:


> I need to go back through this and update all my pictures! Photbucket's new policy really wrecked a lot of good threads in various forums.



Just realized my pictures re-appeared. Did photobucket reverse their new policy that only premium members could imbed photos?


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## BigTerp (Jul 19, 2018)

wmk0002 said:


> wmk0002 said:
> 
> 
> > I need to go back through this and update all my pictures! Photbucket's new policy really wrecked a lot of good threads in various forums.
> ...



They did.


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## wmk0002 (Jul 19, 2018)

BigTerp said:


> wmk0002 said:
> 
> 
> > wmk0002 said:
> ...



Awesome. Must have gotten tons of backlash.


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## ppine (Jul 20, 2018)

It is great that you are happy with your new boat. 
The idea that it is "safe and stable" is not quite accurate. A vee shaped hull is much safer.


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## wmk0002 (Jul 20, 2018)

ppine said:


> It is great that you are happy with your new boat.
> The idea that it is "safe and stable" is not quite accurate. A vee shaped hull is much safer.



In my location and the water I fish safety and stability are one in the same. I use this in creeks, rivers, and small lakes where I am never more than 100 yards from the shore. If the waves are so big I need to cut through them I likely wouldn’t have gone out and if I did and got caught in it I would beach the boat and wait it out before trying to battle them. I needed stability and a shallow drafting boat which could slide over obstructions in skinny water and this boat does both excellent.


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## ppine (Jul 21, 2018)

You are using your boat in the way it was designed for. I like your answer. I wish more people would chose a boat that is appropriate for its use. 

I have a friend that wanted to buy a pontoon boat for Lake Tahoe. Not good.


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