# 1989 17' tracker pro 17 mod



## dearl (Aug 16, 2009)

Been watching you guys for a while, thought I'd give everyone a peek of what I will be working on this winter. It started out a 17' pro 17 bass tracker, and was modified before, but I intend to do it right this time. This is a rivited hull, and it does have some leaks in it, but that will be a thing of the past. My intentions are to convert this boat into a center console, with front and back decks. I do alot of river fishing, and most of the good spots are on the other side of some very shallow water. I intend to distribute the weight in this boat and have her float in 8" of water. I have a 40 h.p. johnson on it now, which runs very well, it will push this boat at 38 mph with me in it alone. Only problem is It doesn't have tilt and trim, plus I got a sweet deal on a 09 Yamaha 70. I will be working on this one steady till done so I will update as much as possible.


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## Zum (Aug 17, 2009)

Nice boat to work on.
Putting a 70hp on her....4 stroke?
Probably still float in 8inches.
Are you fishing now in another boat?


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## dearl (Aug 17, 2009)

I got a 70 h.p. 2 stroke for 5000.00 still in the crate. I thought about a 4 -stroke, but there was a 118 lb diffrence in the 2. The 2 banger weighs 228 lbs so i opt for the 2 stroke. I don't have another boat, but a good friend of mine does, and we normally fish together anyway, in his boat or mine so when he goes, I go. If he don't go, my son has a 1436 jon that we can paddle around if we get desperate. That will be our next project. What gauge aluminum is best for floor and decking? I have a machine shop that I do alot of buisness with and he can get my metal at cost. I was thinking 1/16th" maybe 14 gauge, any thoughts?


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## dearl (Aug 19, 2009)

Haven't done to much in the past couple of days, got the floor braces ready to weld, sanded some areas where there used to be rod holders, I plan to have all the braces ready to weld by friday evening. I will be taking the boat to work with me and using the aluminum wire welder to do most of the structual stuff, but a friend of mine down the road has a tig welder when I get ready to do the decks, and console stuff. There was some awful black stuff that sanded like tar in the bottom, gummed up my buffing pad pretty quick.


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## huntinfool (Aug 20, 2009)

Looks good so far...keep the pics coming.


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## dearl (Aug 21, 2009)

Got some of the paint off the transom and rear cap, I bet theres 4 coats of paint on this thing, and the last coat sands like epoxy. Its all got to go though, starting with a clean slate this go around. I should have all the paint off middle of next week, then I'm going to tackle welding the 6 leaks that I know are in the bottom. My metal guy recommends 3/32nd plate for the decks and sides, He can get it at a good price, but I'm about a month away from that. I got some bad news about my motor, I probably wont be getting the 70 after all, but thats o.k. my 40 still runs good, and its paid for. Put a good camo paint job on it to, and you'd never know its 22 years old.


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## Zum (Aug 21, 2009)

Looks great,so far.
Atleast with your 40hp you know what it's problems(quirks)already are.
Theres a post on here,where a guy used air craft stripper and saran wrap,to remove paint....don't think he had 4 coats to go through,sure did a good job on his though.


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## Fly Rod (Aug 22, 2009)

I see you have the front deck removed...did you remove it yourself? I have a tracker 1564 AW that I'm looking for ideas for and I'd like to remove the front deck and not trash the boat or its structural integrety. I would replace the front deck with 3/4" marine grad ply but I'm just not sure if I can do it. Any suggestions are appreciated.


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## dearl (Aug 22, 2009)

I did remove it myself, but it is going back on. Only reason was to weld the floor supports to the hull, and install a 15 gallon permanent fuel tank in the front. It was easy to get out, a few screws here and ther, but mine was wood to begin with, 1/2" ply. If yours is aluminum, it may be a little more difficult. Iplan to redo all my decks with 3/32nd aluminum plate, and tig weld all the seams, other than the few that will be rivited so I can get to the rigging if I have to, I hope after this mod, I wont need to for a long time. If you have ever seen a Alumacraft 1756 center console, that is where I'm headed with this one. Wish me luck!


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## Fly Rod (Aug 22, 2009)

Good luck. Thanks for the info as well.


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## dearl (Aug 23, 2009)

Got some work done today, Got the cross members welded in, also welded up the old rod holder holes on one side of the boat. I was really pleased at how much more rigid the boat seems after I welded all the cross members down. I know an aluminum boat is suppose to flex some, and this one still does, but not much. I plan to have all the paint off the topside, and the boat flipped by Wednesday of this coming week. I hope to be able to take the boat back to work with me next week, and finish welding the holes in the other side, and maybe get my frame work in for the new 15 gallon fuel tank that will be in the front.


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## Zum (Aug 23, 2009)

Looks real tight.
Nice shop to work in.


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## dearl (Aug 25, 2009)

Got the top side sanded and the boat flipped yesterday, Started working on the bottom side today. I found out why its been so hard to sand this thing, It has a very thick layer of glovit on it. I have used this stuff in the past and it works really well, makes me wonder exactly how many leaks are going to be found once I get the whole thing sanded. I did find the major source of all my problems. There is a 3 " crack in the side of the boat that was some what consealed under a layer of fiberglass that was a temporary patch during fishing season. Once I ground the glass off, oh crap :shock: If I had know it was that bad I would have started sooner. But we made it, and honestly it didn't leak that bad, just annoying to have to run the bilge pump every hour or so. I am seriously thinking about welding all the rivets in the bottom, anyone ever seen this done. If I counter sink all the rivets, and weld the rivet to the hull, and then sand some what smooth, this should fix my problem right, it would be an all welded hull then. I will be thinking about that while I'm sanding the rest of the bottom.


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## ober51 (Aug 26, 2009)

Some rivets on my hull were welded, didnt leak at all. I think you can do it, but probably a lot of work. I would juast rebuck the ones that need it or leak and then Steel Flex, seems like a perfect candidate for it.


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## dearl (Aug 26, 2009)

I have been reading about steelflex, seems like some pretty strong stuff. I need all the help I can get where I fish. #-o


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## Jim (Aug 26, 2009)

wow dearl! Lots of work being done. How long did it take to sand that half? what are you using to do it?


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## dearl (Aug 27, 2009)

I work on it about two hrs every day after work. The bottom has taken about 4 hrs total, Took today off to go fishing with a friend of mine, didn't do much good, should have stayed home and worked on my boat. I have been using some 60 grit sanding pads that fit on a 4.5 " grinder. Makes short work of paint, but the glovit is alittle tuff. If I decide to use steel flex, can i apply it first and then paint over it, or is this more of a final step? Just curious.


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## dearl (Aug 30, 2009)

Been sanding for a couple days, feels like years. Got one side completely done, got started on the other side today. You can see from the pics, I have several section in the bottom that is cracking around and between the rivets. That was my reason for welding everything up, and being done with it. Someone mentioned steel flex, I need to do some research on this stuff because The more I hear a bout it the more I like it. I hope to have the whole boat done and back on the trailer by friday. I talked to my metal guy and he has a spot picked out in his shop already so I can leave it until I get done with the welding. Probably take a couple of weeks to get everything welded in, working a couple of hours everyday after work, but it will get done.


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## Zum (Aug 30, 2009)

That looks like alot of pain in the butt work.
getting er done though,nice job.


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## bassboy1 (Aug 30, 2009)

I don't believe I would use 3/32 without additional support. I have .090 (3/32 is .093) 6061 T6 in my rig, and I had to put my rib spacing much closer together to make a solid deck. I would probably use .125 (1/8), on top of the ribs.


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## dearl (Sep 1, 2009)

Thanks for the tip. I got some more sanding done, and found 3 more cracks on the other side, around the outside rivets. I am seriously thinking of buffing all the rivet heads down flat, and reskinning the whole bottom between the keels. What do you think bassboy? Anyone ever seen this done? The cracks are coming from stress i would think, and maybe this boat has seen more use and abuse than I thought. If I reskin the bottom, that would add more strength right? Look at the pics and let me know what you think.


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## Rat (Sep 1, 2009)

Are those three cracks on the same frame? Are they all on the same plane? Reskinning the bottom between the strakes alone isn't going to give you much additional strength; and to do it right you would need to drill and re-rivet to the factory holes. I wouldn't do it. 

I have seen cracks with that profile (like a flattened "w") before in Alu, it's metal fatigue caused by flexing. The one time I know for sure what happened was the a combination of things, over powered and too much weight in the bow. 

Overpowering a boat puts too much load on the bottom and causes excessive flexing, sometimes called "oil canning". The force on the bottom at higher speeds in chop, even small chop, is huge. Having too much weight forward while on plane will do it as well. The forward weight acts as a cantelever and will buckle the hull while on plane and in chop. 

You mentioned putting the fuel tank under the fore deck, was it there originally? If not that will add considerable weight to the bow, not to mention foaming of the fuel in in serious chop and the beating the fuel tank will take. Generally speaking on flatbottom Jons you wanna keep 60-70% of the weight aft of the splash line while on plane (rear 1/3 of the hull). 

Show me on the boat how the cracks run, stem to stern or port to starboard, and the location on the hull. I have seen a boat with similar cracks due to improper trailering as well, they didn't have the flattened "w" look tho and they ran stem to stern. 

Given the age of the hull I don't think this is excessive damage and is easily repairable. As long as we get a good idea as to what caused it and avoid doing it again. She's gonna be a nice rig when you get done with her.


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## dearl (Sep 2, 2009)

To answer your question, most of the cracks are on the starboard side, and the run along the chine of the boat towards the bow. I did have one battery up front under the deck before, but I figured I would move it under the center console seat, and put the fuel tank up there. I think that the problem came from not having any support on the sides, if you look at the pics of the inside, there is no side support, and I have noticed the sides " flex " under way. As I mentioned before, this boat would move pretty good for its size, with just a 40 h.p. motor, and its rated for a 70. Im not going to consider reskinning the bottom, I am going to weld all the leaking rivets, tig weld all the cracks, and steel flex the bottom, and get on with this mod. After getting the whole bottom sanded, it looks to be in good shape, with a few flaws, but I just want it to be dry, I tend to over think things sometimes, and I am a perfectionist by nature, so if it looks like I'm over kill on somethings, don't pay it any attention, its just my way. I got1 more side to do, then I can start welding. =D>


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## Rat (Sep 2, 2009)

I think you are right. Looking back at your first images there isn't very much support to keep those sides from flexing out; looks like the cracks are right where the support ends as well which is another indication. Easily solved with good decking, you can anchor the decking from side to side to create a structural member if the decking is high enough. I'm not an engineer but I think anything above the center would be good enough if properly anchored. 

You don't need to TIG it either (but there's nothing wrong with TIG); you can use a rod called HTS 2000, it's a brazing rod and you can use a MAPP Gas or Propane torch to apply it, quick and easy, works great. I have used it on boats and Alu evaporator coils (HVAC by trade) with good results. If you can silver solder there is almost no learning curve, otherwise a little practice is required to get it down, but nothing major. It will work on your rivets as well; the main thing is to clean the base material well with a good stainless brush just prior to using the HTS 2000. 

HTS 2000


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## deerslayer (Sep 3, 2009)

I have a 1754 polarkraft with similiar structural problems, few leaks ect. I found a guy who does a ton of boat repairs and he hooked me up. He ran me aluminum square stock gussets on each side of the floor rails, supports connecting the centers of the floor rails all the way up through the middle of the boat and put me in four, two on each side, side supports that connect the top of the side rail to the new floor gussests. Boat is solid as a rock now, no flex, nothing! I am also going to have him put in a new transome in the spring with two new transome supports made out of the same square stock material. The boats PO beat it pretty good, and trailered the boat with the motor up at full tilt at all times. Once the transome is done I am gonna add a full, one piece aluminum floor and raptor line the inside of the boat.....Just a thought you might want to do something similiar witht he floor gussets and the rail supports. It really ties the boat together. I noticed a huge difference the first time I took mine out after the repairs!


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## russ010 (Sep 3, 2009)

You asked about steelflex a few posts back... you put that directly to the bare aluminum, then paint over it

check out Brine's mod on here - he's got pretty good steps with pictures. It's somewhere in this post - https://tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6551


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## dearl (Sep 3, 2009)

Thanks Russ and deerslayer for the tips, I was thinking about adding some bracing from the floor supports up, to kinda tie the sides into the floor to stop this from happening again. Well I did it! I finally finished sanding all that nasty black paint and epoxy off this boat, all I have to do now is go around all the rivets with a small torch and a wire brush to remove any left over epoxy and paint, and then I can start welding. I am going to look into the brazing rods that rat spoke about, looks like some good stuff. I probably wont get anything done till after labor day, got a lot of things to do at work this weekend.


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## dearl (Sep 4, 2009)

Got all the rivets cleaned and marked with a black permanent marker so I dont miss any. My son and I got the boat back on the trailer, and its ready to go to the shop. I will probably go by there tomorrow and set it on the bunks, But I probably wont start actually welding until Monday or Tuesday. I want to bring the trailer home and do some work to it before I put the boat back on. The wood bunks never actually lined up with the keels on the bottom, I plan to correct that and add some new rollers, and some new lights. Hope everything goes as planned. I want to have the welding and the trailer done by next friday.


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## Waterwings (Sep 4, 2009)

Lookin' good! 8)


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## dearl (Sep 9, 2009)

Got the top and sides welded today, used a friends wire welder, didn't take as long as I thought. Turned out real well, I hope to be able to take it back friday and weld all the rivets in the bottom. Im getting pretty excited, almost ready to start putting everything back together.


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## Rat (Sep 9, 2009)

She's gonna be nice when you get done with her! Have a name for her yet?


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## baptistpreach (Sep 13, 2009)

Excellent work thus far. I'm on the fence about modding my 17ft. Duracraft and I'm very interested to see how yours turns out. Looks real great so far though


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## dearl (Sep 13, 2009)

Rat, I haven't really thought about a name yet, It needs a good one though, Ive owned the boat for 3 years, and this is the first real face lift she's ever had, I'll be thinking about that one. I hope to start welding channel to the sides, and get her flipped so I can weld cracks. I will probably order my steel flex this week, but i still have alot of welding to do before I put it on. Don't wait to long baptistpreach cold weather will be on us before long, be to cold to do anything.


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## dearl (Sep 17, 2009)

Got some welding done today, started installing some brackets to secure the sides of the boat to the deck braces. I hope to finish all the welding by the first of the week, my metal should be here by next friday so I want to be ready to roll with it when it gets here. So far I'm pleased with the project, I know the hard part is yet to come, but this is the fun part as I see it. We wouldn't do it if we didn't enjoy it right! I did some welding to the cracks on the bottom earlier this week, they are history! I should be ready to prime it by the first of October.


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## stinkynathan (Sep 17, 2009)

dearl said:


> View attachment 1



that is a humangous stitch....


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## dearl (Sep 19, 2009)

Yep, had a small gap to fill. I plan to raise the deck level 1" so I can run 1x1 tubing from the rear deck to the front to add some strength to the floor area. When I get ready to weld those in these large welds will be bufffed down flat. I hope by doing this it will take the flex out of the sides. We'll see.


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## rick50 (Sep 19, 2009)

This might be a stupid question, but after you welded the rivets and any cracks in the bottom of the boat did you put any water in the boat and test it for leaks?


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## dearl (Sep 20, 2009)

I haven't finished the bottom yet, I still have a few spots that need some attention, plus I'm trying to get my steel flex in so I can get it put on before it gets to cool outside. But to answer your question i do intend to water test it after I get all the wleding done, and before I apply the steel flex. Does anyone know how much a 4 x 8 sheet of .125 aluminum plate weighs. Just curious.


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## rick50 (Sep 20, 2009)

Last time I checked at the place I buy aluminum from they told me 56 lbs..

Just curious about the welding. I have welded the rivets on the bottom of flat boats with mainly a tig machine.


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## dearl (Sep 20, 2009)

I tried to tig some of the rivets on the bottom, but it seems the rivet are made of a softer aluminum than the hull. When I would try to combine the two the rivet would basicly puddle away to nothing. I found that if I counter sink the rivet with a large drill bit, I can mix the two pretty easy if i keep the welder on 48-50 amps and the wire speed on 40-45. The reason i asked about the weight was because i will be using 3 sheets to rebuild my decks, so that amounts to 162lbs. I removed 3 sheets of 3/4" plywood that weighed 75lbs. per sheet so I am actually shedding 63 lbs, and I wont have to replace decks ever again.


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## rick50 (Sep 20, 2009)

Welding rivets arent nothing nice and then sometimes you have to reweld the ribs on the inside, because the rivet is holdin it to the bottom of the boat..

Looks like your doing a good job!


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## dearl (Sep 21, 2009)

That was the first thing I did, I wanted her to be solid, and she is just that. Well boys, Christamas came early this year, I got my metal today, 3- 24' sticks of 1x1x1/8th" tubing, 24' of 2x2 angle 1/8th" and 2 - 4x8 sheets of .125 aluminum plate. All total I have a hair under 300 in the metal alone. Now things should start rolling along pretty quick ( I hope ). I want to get everything fabbed up and welded in by this time next week, calling for a lot of rain between now and next wednesday, I do have a good size shed to work in, but its a pain moving everything in and out but it will be worth it.


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## Rat (Sep 21, 2009)

Sweet! Let the cutting (and measuring, and fitting, and sanding, and grinding...) begin! :mrgreen:


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## huntinfool (Sep 22, 2009)

Yes sir, Christmas came early. Now comes all the fun parts. Remember measure once and cut twice :LOL2:


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## dearl (Sep 22, 2009)

They are real proud of this stuff, I might measure three times before cutting.


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## dearl (Sep 24, 2009)

Finished welding the bottom yesterday, I still have to buff down the high spots. Cut some angle to make my deck supports for the front and rear decks. Turned out pretty good, I should be able to get these welded in place this weekend, and get some plate cut for the vertical supports. I want to start installing the fuel tank and 1x1 cross members next week. I still have to fab up the live well and get it set in place before I put the rear deck in place. My son and I fish a lot of catfish tournaments here locally, I wanted a large livewell to hold some serious fish, I have boat some 41" blue cats that can be a hand full on a stringer. Also the stress that a stringer run through the lip of a 40lb fish can be huge. Also it will be used for keeping large numbers of gizzard shad alive. Thats a challenge in itself. More to come next week.


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## huntinfool (Sep 24, 2009)

Lookin' good, keep 'em coming.


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## Zum (Sep 25, 2009)

Looks real nice,you'll be using her in know time.


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## Rat (Sep 25, 2009)

Lookin' good, that is going to be a great catfishin' rig.


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## dearl (Sep 27, 2009)

Got the cross members welded in, and the front and rear bulkheads cut to fit. I also set the fuel tank up front to get a fill for how it will set. I have a few inches of clearance to run the fill line, but I need to put a plate and some bracing under it so i will probably lose those few inches. I want to get these bulkheads welded in this week, and hopefully some floor supports. I don't wwant to start putting to much in, I still have to flip the boat again and put my steel flex on.

Rear bulk head



Front bulk head



Fuel tank


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## dearl (Oct 2, 2009)

Got some work done yesterday, Welded the bulkheads in, and the 1x1 floor supports. This made the boat alot more rigid. I really like the way the boat feels after doing this, this can only improve the performance of the hull. I plan to do a little more to the inside before I flip it. weather is starting to cool some here in central North Carolina. Highs in the upper 70's today, probably the rest of the week. I want to put my Steel flex on by next weekend so I can get some painting done. :mrgreen:
Rear bulk head welded



Floor supports



More shots of floor supports


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## danmyersmn (Oct 2, 2009)

It looks like the 2 x 1 channel that you welded to each of the floor supports is 16" OC? It also looks like the smaller tube 1x 1? is about 12" OC? What was the reason for this? to bring the floor up higher? I would think that channels are close enough for the span?


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## dearl (Oct 2, 2009)

I wanted 1" span betwen the channel so I could run the control wires etc under the floor. I also wanted to bring the floor height up an inch to give me more clearance to walk around the center console that will be installed later.


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## dearl (Oct 21, 2009)

Been awhile since I have done anything to my boat, bow season is in here in N.C. and thats my other passion. Got 1 already, my son arrowed a nice doe Saturday, his 2nd deer ever, and both were with his bow, and he's only 12. I ordered my steel flex today, should be here by Friday, I hope to get it on sometime this weekend. We are going to Northport on Saturday to Hopefully pick up my new to me power plant for the boat, a 1990 60 h.p. evinrude. The guy repowered his boat and I got good deal on it. It has tilt and trim, and a stainless prop, something I always wanted with my 40, but I sold it to a friend. I hope to have some progress pics for you guys first of next week. :mrgreen:


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## CRAPPIE_SLAYER (Oct 22, 2009)

Congrats to you and your son!


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## dearl (Oct 22, 2009)

Thanks crappie slayer, I forgot to mention that we love to fish for crappie during January and Febuary on lake Tillery. Get a lot of 2 lb slabs while its still cold. Don't have to worry about jet ski's either! =D>


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## dearl (Oct 27, 2009)

Got the boat flipped aaaaagain, finished buffing down the high spots were I welded it earlier this month. I have the boat in the barn, I don't know that it will be warm enough to put my steelflex on, so I may end up putting plastic up around the shed, and using a heater to get the working space up to 70 degrees. By the time I get home in the evening, it is already starting to cool back down, plus its been raining here for 2 days. 54 degrees today, calling for mid 70's tommorow and Thursday, but it wont cure before it starts cooling off for the night. I bought some stuff from the local auto store called all-metal, 2 part compound, suppose to be able to fill in dents and scratches in aluminum and sheet metal. I tried it in a few spots and it goes on easy, I will let you know how it sands tomorrow. Took a few shots of my 1990 - 60 h.p. rude I went and picked up over the weekend. Its a little sore on the eyes right now, but she will shine like a new penny when I'm done.


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## dearl (Nov 15, 2009)

Finally got some warm weather so I could put my steelflex on, and I think it turned out pretty good. For anyone that is thinking of putting this stuff on, DONT MIX MORE THAN YOU CAN USE IN 30 - 45 MINUTES! First batch i mixed started real good, and 3/4 thru, it started going on real thick, and not very easy to work with, Word of advice, mix small batch's and you want have any issues. I didn't have anyone to help me so it took me longer to work it in to the cracks. I'm happy with the application, did the whole bottom, and 8" up the sides, and had some left over.I have the whole week off, I hope to get more structual stuff done to the inside this week so I can start putting her back together.

First coat









Second coat


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## CRAPPIE_SLAYER (Nov 16, 2009)

Looks great!


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## dearl (Nov 18, 2009)

Worked on the ole girl some today, got all my front bracing welded in, new fuel cell is in place, and the rear deck supports are in. I will probably install some more braces in the rear just because I have a whole stick of 1x1 tubing left over. I will start installing the conduit for the wire runners, and I have to get some pipe ran for the front baitwell water supply, and drain. I want to have as much as possible done by Saturday, my plan is to get the boat off the trailer (hopefully for the last time) and get some paint on this thing. I ditched the plan of putting the fuel cell up front, and put it under the back deck. The bait well up front will be for blue gill, and a small amount of shad. I have a 30 gallon portable baitwell, I will use it during tournaments if need be. My original plan was to keep this boat as light as possible, and I think she will be very light after everything is installed.


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## Waterwings (Nov 18, 2009)

Nice work! 8)


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## dearl (Nov 24, 2009)

Been working on my boat pretty steady for the past 2 weeks, got alot of stuff done, the boat has been primed, 1/2" pvc conduit ran under the floor for the front wiring, the front livewell plumbing is in, and almost ready. I chose to run 3/4" cpvc pipe for the fill, and drain. I still have to get my thru hull fittings, and hose's installed first before I can water test everything. I have the floor plate cut, ready to install. Camera battery is dead so you guys will have to wait for pictures. :shock:


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## dearl (Dec 13, 2009)

Been working pretty steady on the ole girl everyday, thought I would update everyone. I have the front livewell set in place, I still have to weld that in, the floor has been set in place, ready to be riveted. I put a section of aluminum plate under the floor to give me something to slide the rigging on once I get everything ready to wire. It would be a pain to try and run wires under this floor with the floor supports in the way. I have my conduit in place, and my livewell drain and fill, screwed down on some rubber section. I hoped by doing it this way, I wouldn't have to take the boat apart to replace pipes after they had holes rubbed in them. I have the fuel tank welded in, and I have my 8 rod holder support do-hickies made up, ready to weld on. I have them drilled and tapped for the 2 diffrent driftmaster rod holders that I use, 1/2" and 3/8". My son and I went to Fayetteville this saturday and picked up the new center console, and a lot of small stuff, switches, floor drains, deck drains, olive drab paint, reelfoot camo stencils in mossy oak break-up, and some new deck hatches. I saw some on here for sale a while back, had a good price on them too. Guess someone snatched them up. I want to get the small stuff welded up this week, and I hope, if the weather warms, get some paint on this baby by Friday! :mrgreen:

1/2" pvc conduit



3/4" cpvc fill and drain piping



livewell fittings



Livewell 15"x22"x11" 



Rigging floor plate



Floor set in place



New center console



Set in place



front shot



Rear rigging and fuel cell



Rod holder do-hickies


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## Waterwings (Dec 13, 2009)

Excellent work, and looking forward to seeing the finished product! 8)


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## Ram (Dec 14, 2009)

Wow, that looks awesome! Can't wait to see more of the progress.


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## gunny146 (Dec 14, 2009)

Looks like that center console worked out great. Whole boat looks great. Can't wait to see finised product.


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## danmyersmn (Dec 14, 2009)

your going to have a great rig. keep going with the excellent work!


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## Rat (Dec 14, 2009)

She just keeps looking better and better dearl! I know it's a ways off, but how are you thinking of doing your cockpit and locker lighting? I am about ready to start buying electrical stuff and was wondering.


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## dearl (Dec 14, 2009)

Thanks for the comments guys, Rat I have some small (2"x4") area lights I picked up at wally world back in August,I think they were $5.00 they have a push button on and off switch built into them. I had some in the boat before, and 2 would light the whole bottom of the boat fairly well. I plan to have one on the front bulk head, 1 on the rear, and one in the bilge area. I have been looking at a installing a livewell light, but I haven't convinced myself that its worth it yet. Going to be raining here tomorrow, and cold as you know what towards the end of the week, dont know if I will get any painting done or not. 

area light


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## 1436delta (Dec 14, 2009)

GREAT LOOKING BOAT MAN I HAD ONE LIKE FEW YEARS AGO IT HAD A 90HP EVINRUDE ON IT KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK :mrgreen:


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## Rat (Dec 14, 2009)

dearl said:


> Thanks for the comments guys, Rat I have some small (2"x4") area lights I picked up at wally world back in August,I think they were $5.00 they have a push button on and off switch built into them. I had some in the boat before, and 2 would light the whole bottom of the boat fairly well. I plan to have one on the front bulk head, 1 on the rear, and one in the bilge area. I have been looking at a installing a livewell light, but I haven't convinced myself that its worth it yet. Going to be raining here tomorrow, and cold as you know what towards the end of the week, dont know if I will get any painting done or not.



Nice find on the lights. They look like they stick out pretty far (?), I bet my hog hunting buddies would break those off in a hurry. I have been looking at the stainless steel low profile LED area lights, they are very nice, only stick out 1/2" but they are almost $25 a piece, proly worth it tho if they last. If you are using the livewell for bait I would put a light in it, best thing I ever did in my old livewell (I used the one from Cabela's), if you are just tossing fish in it I wouldn't mess with it.


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## dearl (Dec 15, 2009)

Yep they do stick out probably 2" at best. I try to get them to the sides and away from any traffic as much as possible, haven't had a problem yet, but you know if it can happen it probably will in my boat. I seen some low profile lights somewhere, big as a quarter best I can remember, they were actually flush mount, if I can find them again I get the link to you.


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## dearl (Dec 23, 2009)

Alright boys, she's green! :mrgreen: Managed to get two good coats on the bottom today, got warm enough here I had to try, going to let her dry overnight, and I'll get some pictures up tomorrow hopefully. Calling for rain here Christmas day so I may not get her back on the trailer till Saturday. Hope everyone has a great Christmas, talk to you soon.


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## dearl (Dec 24, 2009)

Got home alittle earlier than I thought, so I camoed this baby up! I have to say it turned out better than I expected. The stencils I bought made it simple. I tried several diffrent colors till I found the one I wanted. I will try to get it back on the trailer saturday so I can start putting the thru hull fittings in and maybe all the pumps and get started on some wiring.

Console



Transom



Side shot



From the front


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## dearl (Dec 25, 2009)

Had some time today between presents and dinner, Thought I would get my console items installed, Hope to get the floor in place tomorrow, and maybe, just maybe the console installed in the ole girl.


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## Nussy (Dec 26, 2009)

Wow that camo job is fantastic!!!


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## Waterwings (Dec 26, 2009)

Great job! 8)


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## Rat (Dec 26, 2009)

There's only one problem with your build I can see...
You will be spending waaaaay too much time at the ramp answering questions about her! That camo looks awesome!


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## dearl (Dec 26, 2009)

I text some friends some pictures after I got done, and I have 3 people that want me to help them paint their boats when I get done with mine. It wasn't all that hard, matter of fact it took me and my son all of 2 hrs to do the whole boat. Like I said the stencils made the diffrence, It sure wasn't my painting ability. I managed to get the floor riveted in, and the console set today. All the thru hull fittings are installed, and the livewell pump is in. I started on the front livewell recirculation pump but I have to get a larger uni-bit from work to install all the thruhulls for that one. Started priming the mounting bracket for my motor. I want to get the motor mounted on the boat by the end of the week so I can tinker with it when I run out of parts and stuff. I set everything today with 3m 5200, man thats some agrivating stuff to work with, but its suppose to be good, we'll see.

Front livewell goodies



Floor and console in their final resting place.



Thru-hull fittings 



Bilge pump and aerator



Motor bracket primed


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## Waterwings (Dec 26, 2009)

Lookin' good! 8)


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## dearl (Dec 27, 2009)

Getting closer..... Got the front livewell fittings in, recirculation pump in, and all the plumbing done for the livewell. If I never work with 5200 again it will be to soon. I guess the cold weather has it to hard to work with, but this stuff will get anywhere, and everywhere. I'm glad I'm bald, or I might be getting a bikini wax on my head. :LOL2: I had to pull the lower livewell drain thru hull fitting, I planned to run all 3/4" lines and fittings, but I failed to think about the drain line is made for a 1 1/8th hose. Sooo I have to figure out how to get a 3/4" fitting that is made for a 1 3/8" hole. I have seen thru hulls made to fit a 1 1/8th hole, do any of you think that will be to much play if tightened good and seated in 5200? I have that line and the bilge pump, and I'm done with the plumbing, Next wiring!


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## Bugpac (Dec 28, 2009)

Your doing a kickin job on that thing, wanna come redo mine? :mrgreen:


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## Rat (Dec 28, 2009)

So you already have your through hull fitting hole cut and now you need to make it smaller? I would put a patch plate on, riveted in place from the inside, and then re-drill my hole for the right size fitting. Either that or re-run my hose for the bigger size. It looks like you have three different pipes coming together as part of the drain system right? You could make the pipe between the last tee and the hull 1 1/8" by adding the right sized cpcv adapter there easier than cutting and patching the hull; you really need that bigger pipe to handle the overflow water if something ever happens. I would run a bigger pipe. 

That is one good looking plumbing job tho! :mrgreen: 

You can use Mineral Spirits to work with and clean up 5200 while it is is still uncured. I use Mineral Spirits and a small kitchen sponge to clean off the overages around my fittings and stuff, it works great. You can also use an ice cube to to form it around things, like a caulk spatula for caulk. Use a paper towel to hold onto the ice cube and use the other end to spread/shape the 5200. It sounds stupid, but it works better than a finger for long straight lines.


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## dearl (Jan 1, 2010)

Painted the top side today, Going to let it dry overnight, and try to get the top camoed tomorrow. I want to get the vents, lights, and the battery installed so I can start wiring. I ditched the plan of using aluminum plate for the decks. With so much hardware under the decks, somethings going to go wrong one day, the wooden decks would be alot easier to remove if I need to get under there, plus my wife likes the carpet under the feet feeling. Wired the motor up to the battery, the tilt/trim works great, motor turns over fine, I pulled the head and  at some point this motor has broken a piston ring on the #2 cylinder because it has scars in the head. But truth be known I wanted to re-ring the motor anyway because it had low compression. I found some other issues but I will post them in the outboard forum and see if anyone can help me there. I will get some pictures up for you guys tomorrow after the tops camoed.


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## Doug (Jan 2, 2010)

=D> Man, that thing is looking awesome. Keep up the great work.


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## 2007NNBS (Jan 4, 2010)

Looks like im missing something. How are you filling and emptying your livewells. Is it thru the hull on the bottom of the boat?.Can i get a shot of all the pluming in one pic?


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## Rat (Jan 4, 2010)

Looks like he is using a transom mounted through hull pickup and voluntary overflow in conjunction with a recirc pump. 

Transom pick up






Recirc pump, overflows and bottom drain can be seen here. 





Very Nice.


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## 2007NNBS (Jan 4, 2010)

i guess its just me i cant see how he is doing it


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## dearl (Jan 4, 2010)

2007nnbs, I have an thru hull pump in the transom, running to the front, and a 3/4" line from the livewell back out the transom. 2 - 3/4" overflows, and a 3/4" drain in the bottom. Its a pretty simple set up, just looks complicated with lines going here and there. If you look at the pics Rat put up, there's 1 line that feeds the whole set up, and 1 line with 3 drains on it. I also have a recirculation pump install while under way.


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## 2007NNBS (Jan 5, 2010)

so you are using one pump to fill the livewells and then pull a plug and drain them to the back?


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## Nick Jones (Jan 5, 2010)

dearl said:


> Got home alittle earlier than I thought, so I camoed this baby up! I have to say it turned out better than I expected. The stencils I bought made it simple. I tried several diffrent colors till I found the one I wanted. I will try to get it back on the trailer saturday so I can start putting the thru hull fittings in and maybe all the pumps and get started on some wiring.
> 
> Console
> View attachment 4
> ...




Quick question? did you paint over the steelflex? I steelflexed mine around a month ago. I want to stencil mine but i didn't know if paint would stick to the steelflex. if you dont mind please let me know how you prepped it and how it is holding up.


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## dearl (Jan 5, 2010)

Yep, you got it 2007nnbs! Started working on my motor some this week, got it broke down into several workable section so I can get it painted. So far I have the transom bracket ready for primer and paint, then I will put the exhaust tube on, then the lower unit, after I rebuild the water pump of course. I want to take the power head to work with me this weekend so I can get some help to remove 7 bolts that I broke off in the side cover on the powerhead. amazing what salt water will do to a bolt. All of the lighting has been wired, all the switches connected, and everything works like it should. The small LED lights that I bought off the clearance isle at wally world look great when they are on, so far I like um alot! :mrgreen:
Nick I did paint over my steel flex, I ruffed it up good with a 120 grit pad and gave it a good coat of rustoleum professional primer, waited a few days and then I shot it with the olive drab. So far I haven't had any issues, of course I haven't had it off the trailer since either, but it seemed good and solid before I camoed it. I don't think I could have done it if it had been the steelflex with teflon, wouldn't stick from what I have heard.

LED lights



Front shot



Front bulkhead



Rear bulkhead



Motor bracket ready for primer



Motor broken down



Power head for the beast


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## dyeguy1212 (Jan 5, 2010)

I still can't get over how great that camo turned out. Once you're done doing everyone's boat within a 25 mile radius, you should lemme borrow em! :wink:


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## dearl (Jan 6, 2010)

Got the motor parts primed today, I have to order my water pump, get that installed, and then I can start putting it back together. Power head will be taken apart this weekend, cylinders checked, then I will start ordering my rings, if it doesn't need to be bored of course. My machine shop buddy looked at it, and he thinks it should be fine with a good honing, but I will wait for the inside caliper results. :wink: I haven't took any short cuts yet, not about to start now.
I forgot to put up a shot of my rod holder doohickies yesterday, turned out good after all.

motor bracket primed



Lower motor cover



lower unit



exhaust tube



rod holder doohickie


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## xiong-tech (Jan 9, 2010)

this things coming together really well. livewell setup is pretty sweet. and camo looks awesome.


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## dearl (Jan 11, 2010)

Got alot of things done in the past few days, the motor housing is painted, the new water pump is in, I have the motor apart, and found the culprit to the previous owners overheating problem. The water pump impellor was spun, causing lack of cooling, and after I got the flywheel off and inspected the upper crank bearing, it got reaaaaal hot. It actually melted the boss that the timing advance sets on! The bearings looked like new with no signs of damage, so I changed both crank seals, with new o-rings. I have all the pistons out, and the rods are good but the pistons have alot of play in the wrist pin area, so I guess the ole girl will get new set of pistons, rings, wrist pins and bearings, rod bearings, and gaskets. Amazing thing was I thought that it had a busted ring in the #2 cylinder, not so, it has been into before though because it has .020 pistons in it. The inside bore is still good, 3.2070 so I can hone the block and put .020 rings back in it. 

Lower crank seal



lower seal carrier with new seal installed



Upper crank seal



motor housing



motor housing



front shot



pistons


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## Nussy (Jan 11, 2010)

Man, i wish I understood motors enough to know what the hell you are talking about.  
I still can't get over how good your paintjob looks. Where did you get the camo stencil from?


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## dearl (Jan 14, 2010)

Nussy, I got the stencils online at reelfoot. com. They have several diffrent types, but this was the large style, paid 52.00 for them, well worth every penny. I have the water pump installed, lower unit back in place, all the wiring is done, fuel sending unit working, control cables and steering finished, running out of stuff to do until my pistons rings and bearings show up. i can see the end of this project, and it feels pretty good. :mrgreen: 
Problem is what to do when this boat is done........GET ANOTHER BOAT! My wife would flip.

Lower unit installed



lower unit, and lower motor housing



Key switch installed



Control cables and switch wires



Control wires going through the floor



Motor covers installed


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## dyeguy1212 (Jan 14, 2010)

Wow that wiring looks clean... Much unlike mine. Whats the negative bus bar for exactly? Do all the neg wires from each component go into it, then connect from the battery, or is it something different?


Oh and let me know when you're getting a new boat, I'll start saving for this one now


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## dearl (Jan 14, 2010)

You got it dyeguy. All of the negs run to the bus bar, and I have 1 - 10 gauge wire running to the neg on the battery. Keeps from complicating things with all the wires. I plan to have another battery under the front seat section I have yet to buy yet, but it will be for nothing but the outboard. I still have to run 2 more wires for the outboard power, then this part is done too. Next decking! I am shooting for a splash down date of March 1st, just in time for crappie weather.
I have a birthday coming up in February, A new depth finder and a dual onboard battery charger on on my list, my wife and kids don't know it yet but the hints are fixin to fly!


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## Seth (Jan 15, 2010)

How hard is it to reroute your steering cable? I am wanting to move my console in my boat, but wasn't sure how flexible that would be. I'm going to have to get a little bit longer steering cable as well.


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## dearl (Jan 15, 2010)

Seth its not to bad, although the teleflex cables are pretty stuubborn to get around tight corners. Mine was pretty easy because I didn't have alot of things to go around, but if you do have alot of angles, it will test your nerves.


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## Ranchero50 (Jan 16, 2010)

Looks really good, have you considerred getting a hand rail for the console? I have one on mine and it makes moving around the boat so much easier:







I'm thinking about camo just because yours turned out so well. I did the interior in desert tan right now.

Jamie


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## dearl (Feb 4, 2010)

THE BEAST LIVES! Got the motor running today, after what feels like weeks of waiting on parts, sending them back, waiting on more parts finally someone that knows what they are doing! I still have money tied up in parts that have been sent back, why do people think that they can keep your money tied up when they are the ones that made the mistake? I can't figure some people out. Anyway motor runs, thank god! Ended up replacing all the pistons and rings, new rod bearings, wrist pins, and alot of luck. She didn't want to start, but after some priming, and a few choice words she came to life..... and ,man it felt good. Going to try and get her on the water some time this weekend hopefully. I still have to install the front and rear decks, and the fuel fill, but I can see me fishing in the beast in a couple of weeks. =D>


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## dearl (Feb 8, 2010)

Got the new decks cut to fit, the new deck hatches fit perfect, all I need to do is get the numbers put on the ole girl, and she's ready to get wet. I have been waiting for the water to go down in the lake, we have had alot of rain in the past few months, lake level is way up. I dont want to put in with a fresh rebuilt engine in swift water, and have something go wrong. I will probably have pics for you guys on the water by the end of the week, hopefully, calling for more rain tomorrow, just have to wait and see.


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## nbaffaro (Feb 10, 2010)

Man that boat looks good!

I'm not too far from you in Lumberton, been thinking about going to Blewet Falls some this summer. Maybe I'll see you out there.


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## dearl (Feb 12, 2010)

Took the girl out for her maiden voyage, everything worked out great,wind was awful, but me and my son are hooked up and taken her out again in a few minutes. Motor runs excellent, still running a 25-1 oil to gas for the first few tanks, but managed to run her 2 hours and not one problem. I can say that although I haven't been to wot yet, the throttle response on this thing is awsome, hole shot city! I love the tilt and trim, the boat responds better to a lower trim, I will play around with it more when I get above 4500 rpms. nbaffaro, Come on down, lake will start jumping with boats about april, and wont let up till november, hope to see ya there. If you've never been here, word of caution, WATCH THE STUMPS! If you follow the channel markers you'll be fine. I have some pictures for you guys, wifes computer is down, using my daughters laptop till she gets hers back then I'll post them for you all.


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## Brine (Feb 12, 2010)

Great to hear! 

Look forward to the pics.


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## RStewart (Feb 13, 2010)

WOW! What a build. Cant wait to see the pics.


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## dearl (Feb 13, 2010)

My son and i took the girl out yesterday, and we had a ball! We have managed to burn 12 gallons of fuel in her so far, I will probably burn another 6 gallons before I go back to a 50-1 fuel to oil ratio. We ran it at wide open throttle for a bit, and I have to say this is the fastest boat I have owned to date. I didn't have my hand held gps but I imagine we could do 52-55 trimmed and running light as we were. The only problem I can see so far is it doesn't want to idle quit right, but i will wait till i get back to 50-1 before I try to set her up for good. She takes the gas with no hesitation, and responds well all thru the throttle so Im pretty sure the higher ratio of oil will have an effect on the low speed carb setting. I hope to have some pics up this week. Planning to fish in her second week of March, first catfish tournament of the year! :mrgreen:


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## dyeguy1212 (Feb 13, 2010)

Sounds like everything is going well for you.

You should post up some more pics, possibly from on the water :mrgreen:


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## dearl (Feb 17, 2010)

Wife got her computer back, so I got some pics for you guys, SORRY dyeguy, none from the water just yet, wait till the weekend, and I will fix you up.

Rear deck with carpet and seat.



Rear deck hatch





Front deck trolling motor and plugs



rear motor shot



shot from the rear, notice the tracker seats!


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## Nick Jones (Feb 17, 2010)

man that looks great. Thanks for the advice on stenciling/painting over the steelflex. it turned out great.


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## dyeguy1212 (Feb 17, 2010)

Haha don't worry, I'll survive. Its just that if I dont piss and moan, the pics never get posted! :lol: 


Looking great btw.


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## dunk50 (Feb 18, 2010)

OK looks great, I have a tracker 1754 that I am going to put a center console in but I want it all the way to the front. Can I ask where you got your console??? I am figuring it will cost me about a $1000. I have a newer Merc 60hp tiller so controls are expensive I am told. I was going to build a console out of wood but i like yours. Simple


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## Loggerhead Mike (Feb 18, 2010)

nice!


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## Rat (Feb 18, 2010)

Exceptional build Dearl! I know you are happy with her, BTW, got a name for her yet? You know it's bad luck to have an unnamed vessel right? 

Again, that is one smokin' ride Brutha!


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## dearl (Feb 18, 2010)

You know Rat Ive been giving that a lot of thought, and seeing how I started this project back in August of 09 and will be finishing it in March of 2010, nearly 8 months of work, I think "persistence" would be a fitting name, But my son are going to call her the "Mad Catter". 

Dunk50 I got my console in Fayetteville N.C. at a place called ak mcullum, you can find it on line, and the will ship them, I think I paid 230.00 dollars for mine, but you would much rather have one like this than wood, it doesn't weigh much at all. They have several different types, smaller and larger with built in bait tanks etc.... just depends on what you want to spend.


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## Henry Hefner (Feb 22, 2010)

Good name, and a great build!


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## dearl (Feb 25, 2010)

Got my depth finder from bugpac yesterday, got her wired in today, works as it should, thanks again for the great deal. Started working on the side panels today, got one completed, will be doing the other tomorrow. Dyeguy, a friend and i are going out tomorrow to try and catch bait for a up and coming tournament, I will get you some on the move pictures posted tomorrow. Can't wait for you guys to see the ole girl in action. :mrgreen:


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## Doug (Feb 25, 2010)

=D> =D> Great looking results.


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## dyeguy1212 (Feb 25, 2010)

dearl said:


> Got my depth finder from bugpac yesterday, got her wired in today, works as it should, thanks again for the great deal. Started working on the side panels today, got one completed, will be doing the other tomorrow. Dyeguy, a friend and i are going out tomorrow to try and catch bait for a up and coming tournament, I will get you some on the move pictures posted tomorrow. Can't wait for you guys to see the ole girl in action. :mrgreen:



Sounds good!


Glad to here the fishfinder worked... I can't test the one I got from bugpac for another month at least :-({|=


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## Johnny5 (Mar 1, 2010)

Great build! =D>


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## jigster60 (Mar 1, 2010)

SWEET................................JIGGY


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## dearl (Mar 1, 2010)

Got some pics of the new floors and sides for you guys, took her out Friday, fished some, but I left the camera at the house (sorry dyeguy) Plan to do some Crappie fishing Saturday, PROMISE I will get you some on the water pics then.


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## Rat (Mar 2, 2010)

Man that rig turned out nice; the Mad Catter is sittin' pretty! So how many times have you been asked about it at the ramp?


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## Loggerhead Mike (Mar 2, 2010)

that rig matched up with the heavy chevy is just too sexy... =D>


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## Quackrstackr (Mar 2, 2010)

I'm not sure how I missed your build all this time.. but you did a fantastic job! =D> 

The only question that I have is why you went back with the plywood decks instead of the original plan to use aluminum? You could have still riveted or screwed the aluminum down to the supports for removal if you ever needed (and either carpeted or hydroturfed it for your wife).

Have you gps'd the speed yet? If you can get low to mid 50's with a 60hp, it's going to finally get me in gear to start tinkering with my setup for optimal top end. :lol:


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## dearl (Mar 2, 2010)

Thanks guys, Rat I haven't been asked anything yet, seeing as I have been the only dummy at the boat ramp when its 39 degrees out :shock: . You gotta want to fish bad to go out right now. Yep I'm proud of the ole girl, turned out better than I expected. I appreciate all of the advice and help I got from you guys.

Quakrstackr, your right, I could have done it in aluminum, and I still might, but budgets low, and plywood is cheap so I will fish out of it as is for now, but if I win this tournament next week, could be some more mods planned for the ole girl. I haven't gps'd her yet, I wanted to wait till I got back to 50-1 oil to gas first, and I'm on the last tank full now before I do that and tune the carbs good, then I will post some numbers for you.


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## lswoody (Mar 2, 2010)

You got a nice looking tin boat dearl!!!!!!


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## wolfmjc (Apr 4, 2010)

man I like your build! and get this, I have a 1652 weldbuilt with same center console and your decking is what i am workin on also. oh your truck is the same color as my 04 gmc 4dr.....this is somewhat weird =D>


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## KevinWI (Jan 7, 2012)

Rat said:


> Looks like he is using a transom mounted through hull pickup and voluntary overflow in conjunction with a recirc pump.
> 
> Transom pick up
> 
> ...


Solid setup....
Only thing I can see that could be incorrect would be that even though he has two 3/4" overflow lines they are both connected together using 3/4" pipe....which means the same rate of flow drain from one as both. (i.e. using two is the same as only having one as 3/4" can only handle so much water flow fed by gravity). The pipe downstream after the bottom drain would need to increase to a larger size like 1 1/2" to make it drain faster...which is the reason you have two overflow lines to keep up with the 3/4" intake from the pump. JMO.


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