# Bear trailer issue



## the hammer (Oct 12, 2021)

This morning while towing to my local lake, the hitch cap came undone from the hitch and sent the trailer tongue crashing to the road.
With the assistance of a couple of guys I was able to get the trailer back onto hitch and get home. This is the second time that it’s happened. The first time, it was in the lake parking lot and I thought it was just a couple of jokers. This time there was no mistaking it, the trailer and hitch separated.
I’m a checklister and go over step when getting ready for the trip, I KNOW the hitch and trailer were attached when I left.
When I got home, I looked under the hitch and noticed the nut underneath where the ball goes was loose. Is possible that’s what caused it?
Any ideas?
thanks


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## MN Fisher (Oct 12, 2021)

That's exactly the problem

With the nut loose, the lip that presses against the ball when you close the latch isn't tight to the ball. You need to put the trailer on the hitch, close the latch, then tighten that nut until the lip is just snug to the ball...not cranked down hard.

If the nut is loosening on it's own - lock nut and/or Locktite Threadlocker Red


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## LDUBS (Oct 12, 2021)

Yikes, that is kind of scary. 

What do you mean by "hitch cap"? I'm visualizing the coupler separating from the ball. And, that the nut under the wedge part that latches the coupler to the ball was loose. It shouldn't be loose when the trailer is hitched up. First thing I would check is to make sure the ball and coupler sizes are the same. Additionally, I would check if the wedge that latches under the ball got bent, broken, or turned sideways when you hitched up the trailer? I would remove that nut and the latch to give it a good inspection. Replacements are available.

Oops, MN Fisher's post came through while I was pressing send. Mine has a spring between that nut and the latch. I think that is common. I wonder why a Nylock style nut isn't used.


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## the hammer (Oct 12, 2021)

LDUBS said:


> Yikes, that is kind of scary.
> 
> 
> What do you mean by "hitch cap"? I'm visualizing the coupler separating from the ball. And, that the nut under the wedge part that latches the coupler to the ball was loose. It shouldn't be loose when the trailer is hitched up. First thing I would check is to make sure the ball and coupler sizes are the same. Additionally, I would check if the wedge that latches under the ball got bent, broken, or turned sideways when you hitched up the trailer? I would remove that nut and the latch to give it a good inspection. Replacements are available.
> ...



“Hitch cap” - that part of the thing that goes over the hitch ball and you lock the other thing and press it down and put the lock into, you know!


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## MN Fisher (Oct 12, 2021)

LDUBS said:


> Oops, MN Fisher's post came through while I was pressing send. Mine has a spring between that nut and the latch. I think that is common. I wonder why a Nylock style nut isn't used.



Mine has a flat and lock washer between the spring and the nut.

Different styles - I think newer trailers have all gone to a lock-nut, but mine is an early 70s model.


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## the hammer (Oct 12, 2021)

MN Fisher said:


> That's exactly the problem
> 
> With the nut loose, the lip that presses against the ball when you close the latch isn't tight to the ball. You need to put the trailer on the hitch, close the latch, then tighten that nut until the lip is just snug to the ball...not cranked down hard.
> 
> If the nut is loosening on it's own - lock nut and/or Locktite Threadlocker Red



I called Dutton-Lainson, the manufacturer, the rep said the same thing. Well, the three of us can’t be wrong!
I also noticed the hitch receiver also looks a bit too large, like it wasn’t snug. I know I have a 2” ball. Just doesn’t look right.


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## MN Fisher (Oct 12, 2021)

the hammer said:


> I called Dutton-Lainson, the manufacturer, the rep said the same thing. Well, the three of us can’t be wrong!
> I also noticed the hitch receiver also looks a bit too large, like it wasn’t snug. I know I have a 2” ball. Just doesn’t look right.



Could the coupler be for a 2-5/16 ball? That's the next size up.


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## the hammer (Oct 12, 2021)

MN Fisher said:


> the hammer said:
> 
> 
> > I called Dutton-Lainson, the manufacturer, the rep said the same thing. Well, the three of us can’t be wrong!
> ...



I don’t think so. Looks like 2 1/8 but both coupler and ball say 2”.


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## MN Fisher (Oct 12, 2021)

the hammer said:


> I don’t think so. Looks like 2 1/8 but both coupler and ball say 2”.



Okay - well until the latch is closed and properly set, a 2" ball in a 2" coupler _will_ feel loose.

If the nut won't tighten to the point that the coupler can still come off the ball - need to replace the coupler-mechanism...not the whole coupler - you can get a coupler repair kit for about $12 or less that replaces all the moving parts.


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## the hammer (Oct 12, 2021)

MN Fisher said:


> the hammer said:
> 
> 
> > I don’t think so. Looks like 2 1/8 but both coupler and ball say 2”.
> ...



The guy I talked to said that is available.


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## the hammer (Oct 12, 2021)

MN Fisher said:


> the hammer said:
> 
> 
> > I don’t think so. Looks like 2 1/8 but both coupler and ball say 2”.
> ...



Do you think it would be a good idea to preemptively just get the kit?


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## MN Fisher (Oct 12, 2021)

the hammer said:


> Do you think it would be a good idea to preemptively just get the kit?



Probably couldn't hurt - usually includes instruction on how to set it properly too...tight enough to hold, loose enough that the ball can swivel in the coupler for turns.


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## the hammer (Oct 12, 2021)

MN Fisher said:


> the hammer said:
> 
> 
> > Do you think it would be a good idea to preemptively just get the kit?
> ...



I’m actually going to do a bit more inspecting before I go further beyond the winch I’m replacing. The whole bow area deck and hull, trolling motor bolts and nuts, contents of storage lockers, livewell hose (it’s located on the bow deck, bow mounted depth finder, last but certainly not least, fuel tank. G3 had their fuel tank near the front deck. I didn’t smell gas during the day but …


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## LDUBS (Oct 12, 2021)

I'm glad there is an easy fix. The trailer coming unhitched is at the top of the list of things no one wants to have happen!


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## the hammer (Oct 13, 2021)

A few pix of the hitch underside after I adjusted.


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## the hammer (Oct 13, 2021)

I tried lifting the tongue off the hitch by raising the trailer jack but I don’t know if that would really prove anything.


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## MrGiggles (Oct 13, 2021)

Doesn't look like a locknut to me.. Should have a Stover/Nyloc on it, even if it has a lock washer.


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## the hammer (Oct 13, 2021)

MrGiggles said:


> Doesn't look like a locknut to me.. Should have a Stover/Nyloc on it, even if it has a lock washer.



Just a regular nut.


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## MN Fisher (Oct 13, 2021)

the hammer said:


> Just a regular nut.



That's probably the issue - unless it's a lock-nut or at least has a lock washer, the vibration of carting it down the road will loosen the nut and could possibly cause you to lose the trailer on a bump.

Just go with a lock-nut...solves a lot of the issues.

Note: While the boat I picked up had a lock washer on the coupler mechanism, I replaced the regular nut and lock washer with a lock-nut.


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## LDUBS (Oct 13, 2021)

the hammer said:


> I tried lifting the tongue off the hitch by raising the trailer jack but I don’t know if that would really prove anything.



Oops!


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## LDUBS (Oct 13, 2021)

the hammer said:


> I tried lifting the tongue off the hitch by raising the trailer jack but I don’t know if that would really prove anything.




I do the same thing with the travel trailer. Just to make sure. Actually, I have to do that in order to hook up the weight distribution bars, but it seems like a good test to me.


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## JL8Jeff (Oct 14, 2021)

My coupler has a spring and a nylock lock nut. I actually have to remove the coupler from the trailer to fit the boat in the garage at an angle and be able to close the door. Does your coupler have a spring under that metal plate?


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## the hammer (Oct 14, 2021)

JL8Jeff said:


> My coupler has a spring and a nylock lock nut. I actually have to remove the coupler from the trailer to fit the boat in the garage at an angle and be able to close the door. Does your coupler have a spring under that metal plate?



Yes.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Oct 16, 2021)

The metal plate under the nut has raised sides that keep the nut from backing off.


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## the hammer (Oct 18, 2021)

I’m wondering if it might be to my advantage to make the hitch ball higher by 2” rather than hitch and trailer being level. I can’t help but think it may have helped.


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## LDUBS (Oct 18, 2021)

I don't think you would gain anything by raising the hitch. Better to keep the trailer level I think.


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## MN Fisher (Oct 18, 2021)

LDUBS said:


> I don't think you would gain anything by raising the hitch. Better to keep the trailer level I think.



Exactly...raising the hitch will make the ball/coupler connection 'off center'. More centered the connection, the less chance of it jumping off due to an incomplete closure of the latch.


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## the hammer (Oct 18, 2021)

You guys are probably right, considering how close I have it to level!


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## GYPSY400 (May 23, 2022)

If your hitch is adjusted correctly it should have some resistance when closing the lever on top. If you have to stand on it to close it it's too tight, but if it swings down easy it's too loose. I'd buy a new coupler assembly if it's not welded on the tongue, they do wear out over time.

Sent from my SM-A526W using Tapatalk


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## maintenanceguy (May 23, 2022)

replace that nut with a nylon lock-nut. At least it won't loosen on its own.


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## FuzzyGrub (May 24, 2022)

Overall, not impressed with our new Bear trailer. I don't think they could have used any smaller tubing in the construction. I moved the winch forward 2" to make sure the bunks extended just past the transom. Trying to winch it forward those 2", the frame was flexing vs moving the boat! :shock: 

I know my coupler is tight, can barely close by hand but will check to make sure it does have a nyloc nut. Thx for bringing the post to the top.


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