# flatbotm's 1542 build



## Flatbotm (Jun 13, 2011)

I recently picked up a Alumacraft 1542 for cheap $600 for everything pictured here.. The boat is a 2006 and included fish finder, live well, bilge pump, anchor, oars, life vests, marine battery. I felt like I had hit the lotto. :LOL2: Thats where the story begins.

















hauling her home.


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## Flatbotm (Jun 13, 2011)

Even though the previous owner had done some mods that made the boat look good from afar there were lots of flaws. The front deck was propped up with some 2x4s and 4x4s that ran right thru the hatch door. The front had no seating options. I constructed a new front deck from good ole southern yellow pine tongue and groove, glued and screwed with stainless hardware. I created two compartments one for my fuel tank and the other for everything else.











Next I ordered some seats and swivel ease posts from sportsmans guide. The seats were on sale for $26. Cheap! The seat mounts and posts were not so cheap.


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## reedjj (Jun 13, 2011)

Lookin good. I have an Alumacraft 1542. I think its a great boat. stable and well built. Really sturdy for a riveted boat!


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## bulldog (Jun 13, 2011)

Great job so far!!


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## Flatbotm (Jun 13, 2011)

Thanks guys! Reed your build was the first one I read on tinboats. I was researching consoles because that is where my boat is going.

Next I coated the front deck with sikkens semi transparent deck stain. After a few coats it is not so transparent. The color is sagebrush. Sikkens is some thick stuff.

first coat





second coat









after the second coat it got a little slick so I will be adding some grip tape at some point.


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## bulldog (Jun 13, 2011)

Is that an American Bulldog?


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## Flatbotm (Jun 13, 2011)

Yes that is my American Bulldog "Loki" His favorite thing to do right now is help on the boat.


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## Flatbotm (Jun 14, 2011)

I picked up a older evinrude 25 hp tiller so I can enjoy the boat until I get the parts together to go console steer. She runs good and electric start too. 





I gave the ole evinrude a makeover last weekend.


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## Ictalurus (Jun 14, 2011)

Nice boat and fantastic job on the motor =D> =D>


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## bt4264 (Jun 14, 2011)

Great job on the motor. 
I want to do that to mine. 
What kind of paint did you use? Where did you get the stickers?


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## Flatbotm (Jun 14, 2011)

I used engine paint from napa. I looked for some marine paint but a guy at napa said he had painted a outboard with the same stuff and it held up good. The decals I purchased from eBay for $10 shipped. The guy even sent me a bunch of extra small ones for free. I was going to restore it to original but I thought it would look better with my od boat this way.


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## Zum (Jun 14, 2011)

Great find and nice job on your mods.


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## Flatbotm (Jun 14, 2011)

I found another great deal on craigslist. I picked up a Minn Kota all terrain bow mount trolling motor with foot control for $40. I built a aluminum riser to mount it on but I cant decide how to mount it. I would like to mount it down the left side of the front deck but I have read that it should be centered or a foot off center. Does anyone have any input on mounting bow mount trolling motors on a jon boat? Thanks!


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## bulldog (Jun 14, 2011)

This may help as I had the same question.

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=17306&hilit=+trolling+motor


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## Flatbotm (Jun 14, 2011)

After reading that I'm going to mount it down the side. I read you build thread earlier and it makes me want a bigger boat. I also wished I had gone all aluminum with the front deck. Southern yellow is here to stay because it is done, its nice, and oh it was free except for the stain. It did give me the Idea for though for maybe replacing my doors on the front compartments with aluminum ones. Thanks for the help.


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## Flatbotm (Jun 14, 2011)

I tig welded a riser for the trolling motor to rest on so it would clear the front lip of the boat. I decided to make it a inch or so higher than it needed to be so your toes could still slide underneath the space when your casting.


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## Flatbotm (Jun 14, 2011)

Not too much shiny stuff for this boat I don't want to scare the ducks or the fish off. So I gave it the olive drab treatment.


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## Flatbotm (Jun 14, 2011)

Here is my $40 dollar trolling motor and a mock up of how Im thinking of mounting it.


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## Derek (Jun 15, 2011)

looks good


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## Flatbotm (Jun 16, 2011)

I decided to tear out the small rear console the previous owner had made today. After pulling up the carpet it was obvious it all had to go! The previous over was a master at covering up bad woodwork with carpet.

before





not sure what was with the patches of warped plywood.





I didn't even know the switch panel was hinged.





out with it





He used non stainless hardware so some of the screws were rusted out on the heads so I had to drill the heads of the screws off

channel locks worked to get whats left of the screws out.






Now I have to figure out what Im going to to with it. I've been thinking of going to a steering console. The only thing I am keeping is the fish finder and the waterproof switch panel from the rear console. I have a third matching seat and pedestal set up right now. I was thinking of mounting one of the base plates in back so I can still use the boat as a tiller while Im collecting steering console conversion parts. Does a tiller set up have any advantages over a console steered boat?


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## Derek (Jun 17, 2011)

only benefit to a tiller is you will have more room. the console wont be taking up space.


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## Flatbotm (Jun 17, 2011)

Thanks Derek. The 1542 consoles don't look like they take up too much space. Looks like it's time to order up a console so I can keep my project moving. I guess the only other advantage a tiller has is you can change it out for another one in 30 seconds.


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## Zum (Jun 17, 2011)

You can turn alot quicker with a tiller as well,especially in alittle jon boat.
Feels good in your hands to.
Personal preference.


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## Flatbotm (Jun 17, 2011)

Thanks Zum. I will set the boat up with a seat to run the tiller just to see what your talking about. I ran a small boat with a tiller when I was young but it's been a long time. It's going to cost around $500 to change it to a console so if the tiller is a better set up then that's $500 for other stuff.


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## Zum (Jun 18, 2011)

It's a personal preference.
I don't have any long runs,1/2 hour tops,less to worry about going wrong and I do like the feel of it.
If I changed to a console it would be an forward center console...that way I could max out the hp with a 60


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## Flatbotm (Jun 19, 2011)

Thanks zum. I am probably going to do the console steer still. I talked to a buddy yesterday and he said after all day on the water he gets a little sore from being turned from the tilling position. I am thinking of maybe setting it up kinda like Reeds so my wife can ride next to me when traveling across the lake. I'm going to make it so the seats pull out and move to the front and rear for trolling/fishing.


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## Flatbotm (Jun 23, 2011)

I have another question for the experts around here. What are your thoughts of a additional kicker motor on a 15' jon? The reason I ask is some lakes here have a 10 hp limit. Some are just no wake but others have this limit. If I set my boat up with the console it will be difficult quickly change out my 25 hp rude for a smaller motor. If I set the boat up to have a smaller kicker then I could take the kicker off and put it on as needed. I mocked it up on the back of the boat and I would definitely need to fab up a bracket to get the motor far enough away from the 25 rude. I think it would be used for trolling as well so I don't have to idle my bigger motor for long periods. The little 4.5 merc weighs about 50 lbs and I wouldn't need additional fuel cause I all 2 stroke. Any help is appreciated. Here is a pic of the little guy.


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## Zum (Jun 24, 2011)

Another benefit to a tiller...joking
I know they make kicker brackets that can handle that size outboards(bigger as well).
I think bassboy has one (homemade)on his jon boat,maybe popeye as well.
I'll see if I can find the link for you.


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## Flatbotm (Jun 24, 2011)

Thanks Zum that helped. I ended up picking up some parts off of cl today. I got the kicker mount made by michigan wheel new for $40 and a OMC shifter throttle control for $50. The shifter throttle would have been a great deal except I missed a detail with a cable being messed up. Oh well they are available online for reasonable $$ first time Ive been ripped off on cl so not too bad for all the dealings Ive had. I also got a new boat cover from china today. China freight tools boat cover looks to be nice for $62 shipped to my door.


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## reedjj (Jun 25, 2011)

When I am at idle or sitting still and have 2 people sitting in my boat, a full tank of gas, my boat sits pretty low in the back. About half of the 15"transom is above the waterline. Thats only about 6-7 inches! a small wake from a boat or even a jet ski wake at the right angle can come over no problem, and has more than once to me. That is the reason I removed the 30 lbs of wood I had on the back for the rear decking and went with just the piece of ply to cover the tank area.

If you slap another 4.5hp on there plus a mount you might sit a little lower than you would like. Of course if you are only going to have it on there on hp restricted lakes you might not have to worry about it. 

Just a suggestion.


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## Flatbotm (Jun 26, 2011)

I will wait until I finish all my mods and have the boat on the water before I add the kicker. My fuel is up front but I still have weight to add in the rear with some more wood, console, ect. ect.. The wood I have for the rest of the boat is lighter than the beastly stuff I used on the front. I may also replace my front hatch doors with aluminum to shave some lbs.. My 25 hp rude is pretty light but I probably don't need the extra 50 of the little merc hanging off the back. Its ok if the boat doesn't run 30mph but I would like to see at least 25. I wish I had spent the $$ to go all aluminum then weight would not be an issue or I just could have got a bigger boat. :lol:


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## reedjj (Jun 26, 2011)

You will be fine, It will do 25 easy! If you want to go aluminum later you can always do it over the winter. One thing I have learned is that these projects are never really done.


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## Ictalurus (Jun 27, 2011)

Great find on the kicker mount, that looks awesome! If you decide not to use it let me know


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## timebak (Jun 27, 2011)

Whoa! Whoa! Whoa! Wait just a minute here!! I got in on this thread a little late. flatbotm, you do NOT need that ugly old galvanized trailer. I've got a really nice one that I drug up outta the weeds behind my house that would look LOTS better with your boat. I'll trade ya straight up. Just needs a little sandblasting or wire brushing and a couple coats of paint, some new wheels, and I've got a pair of new tires for it that I'll throw in the deal, and it'll be better than new. 

Uhhhh, well,... there _is_ just a TINY little problem with the wood being rotted off the bunks, but I know from your post that you can handle that job just fine. Oh, uh, I forgot about the lights and wiring being rotted off of it.... BUT that's an easy fix for a man of your obvious talents... Tell ya what, I'll give ya twenty bucks boot on the trade! How's that sound??


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## Flatbotm (Jun 28, 2011)

You were a day too late I allready traded the trailer for a rooftop boat carrier and a 6 pack of old Milwaukee. :---) no I was pretty happy to get a galvanized trailer in the deal. It needs the bunks adjusted. It had no jack so I picked one up at the local farm supply I need to weld on and I may make some guides to help with loading. The guy I bought the boat from even met me the next week and brought me two brand new spares for the trailer(still had the stickers on them).


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## timebak (Jun 28, 2011)

Dang!! The story of my life: A day late and a dollar short..... Sounds like you got a good deal. Be careful welding on that galvanized: the fumes will make you sick. And getting those spares was sure nice! That's another hundred bucks you saved right there!

Oh, and the guide-on are a great idea. I've got some short ones on my trailer and really like em. But I'm getting ready to put on some taller PVC pipes on the end for even better guiding and so I can see the trailer better when backing.


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## Flatbotm (Jun 28, 2011)

There is a bunk in the front of the main side bunks that goes horizontal and isn't even touching the boat so I guess I should extend it up so the front of the boat is supported better. What are the guides usually made from? I was going to weld on some short pipes and extend them up with PVC that had the same ID as the OD of the pipe. Is that the normal method? 
I will probably still put the kicker mount on the back of the boat for the hp limited lakes. Because on those lakes I won't have to worry about water coming over the back because they are generally no wake anyway. 

I have another question for you guys. Has anyone on here ever done a permanent overhead tube to have a Bimini type top off of? It would look kind of like a roll bar on a boat. I would obviously bend it up out of light weight aluminum tube. I don't know if it would be more of a pain than a Bimini but I could definitely do it for cheaper. Any thoughts?


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## bmontagne (Jun 28, 2011)

Can anyone tell me why there are so many switches (switch box) and electrical work?
I have a 14ft Weldcraft with a 25 hp Mercury and a cheap hand-steered trolling motor on the back.

I simply have a marine battery with the trolling motor alligator clips on it.
My lights are the cheap D-cell battery powered kind. 

Thanks much,

Brandon


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## Flatbotm (Jun 28, 2011)

Brandon,
Thats one of the great things about tinboats you can have it your way! You can make your boat as simple or as complicated as you want. I pulled out the previous owners wiring and switches but I will be putting quite a few back in. When my boat is done i will have switches for lights, radio, spotlight,fish finder, bilge pump, and live well to name most. My trolling motor will not have any switches because it will have its own battery. The other battery will start my 25 hp outboard and do everything else. If you didn't want any switches you could power everything with d batteries and use a hand held spotlight.


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## Flatbotm (Jun 28, 2011)

I put the harbor freight Large Boat Cover for the $$ spent. Like I said before $62 shipped. It is really big for my boat but that is what I wanted. Once my boat has a console and all the pedestal seats in place it will fill the cover out better. Right now it looks like a large bed spread on a army cot. It will cover the outboard. The material is much heavier than my $50 walmart one which ripped in the wind.


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## flatboat (Jun 29, 2011)

have you considered a bolt on jack , you can replace it easier if something happens to it .


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## Flatbotm (Jun 29, 2011)

I considered it so I wouldn't have to grind off any galvanizing. But I will just weld it in a way that the welds can be cut back off later if need be. I saw a can of galvanize look spray paint at the farm store so I will touch it up with that.


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## Sundog (Jul 1, 2011)

The deck is cool . what is the advantage over Plywood


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## Flatbotm (Jul 1, 2011)

It was free, it doesn't have a subframe(lots of storage space), and it is super strong it would support the boats whole weight capacity. It will also last a lifetime if I take care of it. Plywood if done right could save you some weight. Plywood is definitely cheaper. If it wasn't free I would have gone all aluminum probably.


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## reedjj (Jul 1, 2011)

For your biminit top idea... I wonder if you could put a pedestal seat mount in the back and one in the front then in each mount you put an extended seat post (about 5 feet) with a T on the top, kinda like a clothsline pole. then you could stretch material between the 2 T's and have the whole boat covered.

Similar to some of the guys on swamp people. Joe/Tommy, and RJ & Jay Paul.


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## Flatbotm (Jul 1, 2011)

Cool idea jj! You've got my wheels turnin now. Maybe even y shaped 2 on either side in back that run up and y into the front seat post pocket. Keep the ideas coming.


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## Flatbotm (Jul 7, 2011)

Today I picked up the tube for the custom bimini cage. I bought 6 20 foot sticks of 6063 T5 1 inch aluminum. The guy at the aluminum place was cool and threw in 2 extra pieces for free that were bent up a little. Im going to use some of those pieces to do some test bends. I also picked up some partial sheets one of 1/8 and the other is a little less than 1/8. Throw out some ideas guys before I start bending.


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## Flatbotm (Jul 7, 2011)

The bender I'm using is a jd2 model 32 full hydraulic tube bender. I haven't bent aluminum yet so thats why Im glad I have some test pieces. My 1 in die has a 3 in radius so its going to be some tight bends. Here is a pic of the bender.


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## Derek (Jul 8, 2011)

very nice bender. I assume you didn't buy it just for this project?


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## Flatbotm (Jul 8, 2011)

Thanks Derek. I kinda went all out on that tool. No for the last 10 years or so I've been building jeeps and scouts. I bought it for that but it comes in handy for all sorts of stuff. Here is the jeep.


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## Derek (Jul 8, 2011)

nice. I like the tube work on the jeep aswell. I also wheel. This is what is left of my 88 comanchee


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## Flatbotm (Jul 8, 2011)

Nice Derek. That comanchee looks like it's seen it's fair share of wheelin. My other project right now is a 67 scout that I'm dropping a 2004 Chevrolet 5.3 and a 4l60e into. No tube work yet but the suspension and axle swap is done.


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## Derek (Jul 8, 2011)

Cool, I have always wanted to build a scout.


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## Flatbotm (Jul 8, 2011)

I've built a few. I bought this one for $400. Then I sold the tranny and t case out of it for $400. So it's essentially a free scout. 79 ford hp 44 front and a 14 bolt in the rear. I love my 14 bolts. I'm setting this one up as more of a trail truck boat towing rig. The jeeps 60 and 14 bolt are all welded so it's not the best street truck. I build all my rigs for cheap using junk yard parts. I wish I could pick up boat parts as easily. Any ideas for my Bimini cage? I've been trying to come up with a design that has the least negative effects on casting.


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## Derek (Jul 8, 2011)

thats they way mines is built. cheap junkyard/used parts. My jeep has welded d60/14b combo as well. Obviously mine never sees the street.

I would do one similar to the attached picture. that way you don't have the down straps in front to get tangled in

https://www.biminitops.com.au/wp-content/w3tc/pgcache/_index.html.gzip


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## Flatbotm (Jul 8, 2011)

That's what I was looking for Derek. Something similar with a removable canvas top for trailering. Thanks


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## Flatbotm (Jul 8, 2011)

I ripped out the remaining carpet and wood from the middle section of the boat this afternoon. I have to decide 3/4 tongue and groove bead board or alluminum to finish out the rest of the boat? Is there any reason for foam under the floor besides support and the little floatations it provides? I am thinking of not putting the foam back under the middle floor section. Any other benefits to foam. It had some bluish foam under the wood and carpet.


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## Flatbotm (Jul 8, 2011)

One photo got messed up. The blue foam.


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## Flatbotm (Jul 13, 2011)

I did a little work tonight on the boat. Its been raining here every afternoon when I get off work so its been hard to get anything done. I laid down some of my t and g bead board tonight. I didn't get quite finished hopefully tomorrow night. Yesterday I picked up some 1.25 square tube and a partial sheet of 3/16. I plan to re do the doors on my front deck out of aluminum to shave a little weight. After I finish the bead board I'll stain it the same as the front.


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## Express (Jul 13, 2011)

=P~ alright boys you've got me droolin now! i love wheelin and i miss it a lot! i used to have a CJ-7 with IH Scout dana 44 axles, mild 350 mill, turbo 400 trans, dana 30 gear drive transfer case, 5:38 gears, locked rear, trac lock front, tube cage all tied to the frame, hydraulic front steering, 2" ski-jacker soft-ride lift, spring over perch conversion all ridin on 40" swampers.
i used to belong to the local club and man we had some fun

dang i miss that jeep ](*,) sorry i don't have any pics on my computer

oh and your boat is comin right along flatbotm


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## Poormans Boatright (Jul 14, 2011)

Hey, Flatbotm, on what bends I used the JD2 Bender on I found that the aluminum wanted to dig into the follow bar and scrape the aluminum, to remedy this I had to apply a little grease on the backside of the tube to slide along the follow bar more freely. Maybe you wont have this problem. My problem was probably due to the fact my dies are tube and not pipe which have slightly different o.d.'s. For the most part I used a Greenlee bender which worked great. Your right a 3" radius is going to be tight, the bends on my rig are around 9" radius which I think made a smooth transition bend. Good luck, let us know how it comes out.


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## Flatbotm (Jul 14, 2011)

Always good to meet another jeeper express. I can't sell my jeep cause it would take too much effort to start over again and I'm a little tired of building 4x4s. I've had 3 crawler projects back to back and I'm really enjoying the boat because it's something new for me. Thanks for the compliment I really am just feeling my way thru this boat build. 

Rod thanks for the tip on the grease. I bought 1 in tube and my die is for 1 in tube so maybe it won't scratch it too bad. If not jd2 makes delrin(cutting board material) inserts to remedy that problem. They are a little Pricy so hopefully the grease will work. I bought such a tight radius because originally bought the 1 in die to build a baja style roof rack for the scout project.


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## Flatbotm (Jul 14, 2011)

I got a few more hours on the boat tonight. I finished the center section and got a coat of the sikkens on it. It really changes on the second coat the first one is real transparent but you can kinda see what the bead board is going to looking I liquid nailed all the grooves same as the front. Now its on to the rear section while Im waiting for the console to show up. I have some more seat bases to mount in the mid section but I need the console for mock up. Watching swamp people right now.


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## ncfishin (Jul 15, 2011)

"Watching swamp people right now."
How'd you like it when that gator grabbed Joe's gun and took it in the water? Great show, and great job on the boat as well.


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## Flatbotm (Jul 16, 2011)

Thanks ncfishin. Yea swamp people is great you get to see a bunch of different tins hard at work. I've been watching and getting ideas for my top. Alot of our boats on here are too plush for gator country. It looks like most of them are set up so they can hose em out at the end of the day. I'm bummed the season is about over.


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## Derek (Jul 16, 2011)

Swamp people is great. Those are some hard working boats.

flatbotm, Did you stain/paint the underside of the boards? Under there is likely to be the most constantly wet area of the boat.


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## Flatbotm (Jul 16, 2011)

Yes I put a heavy coat of stain on the bottom and ends of the boards. The only part that isn't stained is the tongue and groove parts which is sealed up with liquid nails. I'm going to do a second coat on the top side today. Still wish I had gone all aluminum but the wood was free and it's hard to beat free. I have enough aluminum to do the back platform or I have the bead board trying to decide which to use.


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## Flatbotm (Jul 16, 2011)

I decided to do a little aluminum project today to see what kind of weight I could shave off the front deck by replacing my hatch doors with aluminum ones. I used 1/8 1.25 square tube and 1/8 aluminum sheet.

I used a bandsaw to cut the box at 45 degree angles.






I cut the sheet with the plasma using a piece of 1in aluminum box and some clamps as a guide






I welded it all up using a miller 30a spoolgun






I laid the box out on a square table and welded it on all sides. The I ground the welds off on the side that I sheeted.






With the sheet I welded the corners on the top side and ground the welds smooth and then welded the hell out of the underside.

Here is the finished product minus handles, hinges and paint. I think I am going to herculine them and the paint them od green same as the boat.


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## Flatbotm (Jul 16, 2011)

Here they are in the boat.
















The original doors made from the t and g weighed 31 lbs combined. They had two cross boards each underneath tying them together adding to the weight. The new aluminum doors weigh 16 lbs combined so I only saved 15lbs for a half of a Saturday spent fabbing. I was hoping for more but I guess I will appreciate it every time I open a door.


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## Zum (Jul 16, 2011)

Thats alot of weight to save off of such a small area.
Nice work your doing.
I kinda like that tongue and grove look,seen it on some boats on youtube,overseas I think.
I bet in cedar or hackmatack,it would last forever.


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## reedjj (Jul 16, 2011)

I can see it now. Total aluminum rebuild this winter! Imagine how much weight you would save with all alum decks and floors?


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## Flatbotm (Jul 17, 2011)

Thanks Zum I like the t and g look too. If it hadn't been free I would have saved my money for alumimum. JJ I don't know if I will be able to go all aluminum for a while because that southern yellow pine is good wood and I don't know if I can just tear it all out and discard it. It will have to show some wear and tear before that happens. I am thinking of replacing areas piece by piece. How I cut into the deck for the two hatches Im thinking of cutting the deck out for others. So 15 lbs is alot? Those two hatch doors were at least 1/4 if not 1/3 of my whole front deck. So if I did a few more I will have eliminated half the weight. Ive thought of cutting into one of the stock seats like you did jj for a battery box or something. Should I skip the wood and go all aluminum on the rear deck? I have enough aluminum collected to do it. I have about 10 ft of the 1.25 square tube left over for supports. My console should be here next week then I will be getting to the rear deck and maybe a seat storage box like you have jj. Possibly aluminum? Thanks for the encouragement


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## Zum (Jul 17, 2011)

I think thats a big weight savings.
Lets say we go to the 1/3 size(hatch)...15X3=45lbs saving on a front deck would be huge.
The aluminum has to weigh something,small boats like ours;it's all about the weight saving.
I bet the feel and sound of the wood,especially none carpeted,is probably going to be cooler and less noisy.
Another good thing about going with the free T/G is,you can put down what you think you are going to like and later on change the little things,you didn't really like or keep it the same;when/if you ever decide the aluminum route.


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## Flatbotm (Jul 17, 2011)

I see your point Zum over a whole boat aluminum could give you significant weight savings. I compared the thinner t and g I used in the mid boat to the materials to do the midboat in aluminum and they are close in weight. The wood is much cooler than the aluminum when sitting in the sun. The aluminum becomes too hot to touch. So what do you guys think aluminum or t and g for the rear deck?


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## Flatbotm (Jul 17, 2011)

I bent my first piece of aluminum today with the bender and I was really happy with the results. Applied a little white grease on the part of the tube that meets up with the follower die. It didn't really scratch it at all. Almost like it polished it. I bent a 180 or close to it just to see how it would do. Building the bimini top shouldn't be too bad as soon as I get a concrete plan. I've been going back and forth between the style like Derek posted and something more like Joe and Tommys design from swamp people. Any thoughts on what would function better for fishing? Heres some pics of the bend.


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## Flatbotm (Jul 21, 2011)

Seems no one wants to give any input on the bimini top design? My wife is out of town this weekend and I have until tuesday night to go fab crazy. So if someone comes up with something that I end up using for my bimini design and it hasn't been already said or posted. I will bent you up something for free! You pay for the tube and the shipping and the bend or bends will cost you nothing. Nothing extravagant just a grab bar, light bar, grab handles, something that doesn't need a 8 foot box to fit in. 
On another note I received my console from Alumacraft on Wednesday and unfortunately it came damaged. So far Alumacraft seems to want to help by sending me a replacement console. The verdict is still out thou.
Here's a pic of the console close to where I am thinking of putting it. A few inches forward of this.


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## Flatbotm (Jul 24, 2011)

I did a little prep for the rear deck today. I welded a crossmember in on the rear rib of the boat to support the t and g. I also stained the underside and ends of the boards so I can lay them down tomorrow. I welded a center support on the rear deck support that is not shown in the pic. I also plan to attach some angle iron to the transom to support the deck on the back side.


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## Brine (Jul 24, 2011)

It's coming along nicely. This is the first t and g build I remember seeing. 

No clue on the bimini, but good luck with the rest of your build!


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## HOUSE (Jul 24, 2011)

I like the looks of the wood planks on there. I haven't seen that style yet. I found some bimini designs on ebay that you might be able to rip. Someone on here also posted they had some they were willing to share...but for the life of me I can't recall who it was!


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## Flatbotm (Jul 25, 2011)

Thanks guys. The t and g is great it doesn't warp because of the grooves cut in the back side. Its really strong once it is all glued and screwed. The one down side is it is pretty time consuming to install and if your off a 1/8 of a inch on the first board it turns into a inch by the end. I found that out the hard way. 

Here are some pics of the sub structure on the rear deck and the rear deck installed. Tomorrow I will install the pedestal seat base and stain the top side.


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## Flatbotm (Jul 25, 2011)

I got another step done after work today hole drilled for the seat base and one coat of stain. You can see the rear deck a little better since yesterdays pic was taken at 10 pm.


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## Derek (Jul 26, 2011)

If you have the tools and the time I would suggest sinking the pedestal mounts into the wood. Especially if you fish barefoot, I wish I had, and I have carpet over everything.


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## Flatbotm (Jul 26, 2011)

So your talking about sinking the plate the 1/8 inch that it sticks up so it is flush? What are my options for doing this?router?


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## Derek (Jul 26, 2011)

Yes. A router would work perfect or if your really good with a chisel and hammer.


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## Flatbotm (Jul 26, 2011)

Derek, my brother in law said he'll bring his router over next time he comes over and help me sink them. Here is a few more pics.


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## dryin (Jul 27, 2011)

damn bud that boat looks great


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## Derek (Jul 27, 2011)

looks great. You are going to appreciate them countersunk if you ever fish barefoot


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## Ranchero50 (Jul 27, 2011)

I'd get it wet before you get too much further into it... You should be close to 300lbs of T+G up high, that's a lot of lost weight capacity. Looks great but it's way overkill. You could reduce your access panels a size or so too. My big door (15"x48") is only .125" thick and plenty strong. Most of my decking is .080 with 10" stringers. The boat drafts 3-4" empty, 4-6" loaded. It's something to think about.

Jamie


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## benjineer (Jul 27, 2011)

Wish I could see your pics. Sounds like a nice build. They don't let me see photobucket, etc. I only get to see stuff uploaded to the site.


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## Flatbotm (Jul 27, 2011)

I weighed the front decking before I re did the doors with aluminum and it was 110lbs including everything. So I trimmed the weight down to 95. All the other bead board combined was less than 100 lbs. It is only about 5/8 thick. I think my weight capacity w/ people is 775. My wife and I combined are under 300. The old decking and flooring was 3/4 plywood which was really heavy per square inch. If it sits too low I can add some pods too. Benjineer I will see if I can upload some to the site.


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## Ranchero50 (Jul 27, 2011)

Mine was 3/4" plywood too when I got it, felt and ran like a tank, would not plane out with a 9.9. Now I can pull it up on the trailer by myself.

I was thinking and a binimi set up like a retractable hardtop would be awesome if you could pull it off. Four legs, hinged in the back, pinned up front that lay down so you could have a fisherman off the back too.

Jamie


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## Flatbotm (Jul 27, 2011)

Thanks for the idea Jaime. If you have any ideas for weight reduction besides eliminating the front deck I'm open ears. I'm going to cut out the area around the console to shed a few pounds. The bead board and aluminum are close pound for pound when you consider the support the aluminum needs and the bead board needs little to none. The thicker t and g in the front is where I can trim more fat. I went with the large hatches so I can fit things in there like coolers and other large items depending on how I need to distribute weight once I get her on the water. One area i will need to figure out is where I will put my trolling motor battery. I have a smaller battery for the engine starting battery. The fuel can go up front or in back depending on where the weight needs to go. Right now I have the fuel set up in the back front hatch. The tubing I have for the bimini top is super light weight. I have thought of making it fixed and not folding to avoid straps. I will probably pin it with lynch pins or bolts so it can be removed in the winter if you are wanting sun. Thanks for the help.
Selby


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## dryin (Jul 27, 2011)

damn bud your boat looks really good . i was hopin you could post more pics of the binimi top. iam relaly thinkin about makin one for my boat and get a couple ideas from yours


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## Flatbotm (Jul 27, 2011)

Hey Dryin,
Thanks I've been putting some hours in on my boat. Still haven't built the Bimini yet. I've been waiting for more ideas to be posted. Once it's bent up it will be too late to change it. I have extra aluminum tube but not enough to do it twice. So hopefully I will nail down a plan in the next week or so.


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## benjineer (Jul 28, 2011)

Hey, got to look at your build pics at home. Pretty nice with the T&G. I had an idea for a strapless top that I never built. I wanted something on our cuddy cabin boat that would shift from high and toward the rear for fishing to low and forward sitting on top of the winshield for rain or going under bridges. I can make you a rough concept drawing if it's something that interests you. Not sure I ever figured it out completely, but I'd sure like to see someone try it.


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## Flatbotm (Jul 28, 2011)

Benjineer I would really like to see a sketch of your Bimini design. I like the idea of a top that converts for different uses.


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## benjineer (Jul 28, 2011)

Ok, it goes a little something like this. Don't laugh. 

You'd need a pin jointed horizontal bar at the top keeping the uprights the right distance apart. The top would always be parallel to the gunnels, which you can't get with a bimini unless you put it on a slide and adjust the straps when you move it. I wanted vertical adjustment too though. Ok, I have to show you what I devised this for. https://www.benjineer.com/Seabird1.htm. It came with a delapidated bimini, but I prefer to drive standing up looking over the windshield. That means you'd have to put the bimini away when driving, what's the point? Now I have to draw some more. The blue in the second pic are the gunnels and windshield. 
The top two positions are the most needed for what we do. A fixed top in the "normal" position would be fine except there are some bridges we couldn't get under like that. Also, pushing it down and forward would be nice in the rain or to make more room for fishing at the rear. I wanted to try this, but I never had the time and money at the same time, and went on to other things. We still use the boat, and still wish it had some shade.


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## Flatbotm (Jul 28, 2011)

Benjineer this is the kind of brainstorming I've been wanting. I really like the multi position bimini idea. Originally I was thinking of a fixed main bar that stayed up all the time and maybe bundle the multi position parts to it during road travel. I have seen this on pontoon boats. You idea where the whole thing can lay down might be better. Especially with high and low positions. I need to see if my old cad program still works.


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## Flatbotm (Jul 28, 2011)

I got the console hardmounted in the boat this afternoon. I cut a little notch in the front deck so the console is pushed all the way forward against the middle seat. I tried to figure out a place to hide the teleflex cable and it's not looking like it's going to be easy.


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## Flatbotm (Jul 30, 2011)

I used one of the golf club tubes to run the teleflex steering cable thru the the rear bench tonight. Unfortunately the cable would not fit thru the rib that runs along the side of the boat but my throttle and shifter cables will. Coring out the foam was fun I used a hollow aluminum tube to core the foam like a apple(not as easy as it sounds). I started drilling the holes for the fishing rod holders. 1.5 hole saw is the ticket. 1 and 3/8 is too small fits inside the golf tubes.


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## Derek (Aug 1, 2011)

nice clean look


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## Flatbotm (Aug 1, 2011)

Thanks Derek! I tried a few different things with the cable but its not the easiest to deal with ( those steering cables are rigid) 

I worked on the boat a little more yesterday afternoon. I got the steering wheel and helm installed and the cable installed in the helm. Then I got the tubes installed for the rod holders. What a pain coring out all that foam is. Messy!


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## reedjj (Aug 1, 2011)

Very clean work! looks great!


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## Flatbotm (Aug 1, 2011)

Thanks JJ.. I'm trying to figure out the seat height for my driver and passenger seat right now. Pedestals seem to high but going with the seats just off the floor seems too low. I need to build a box like you had in your 1542 to raise the seats 6-8 inches. I didn't want to add any more weight. So I'm trying to figure out how to accomplish this with minimal lbs.


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## Flatbotm (Aug 4, 2011)

I did a little work on the boat tonight. I built the seat riser that my driver and passenger seat will sit on. Its not finished but mostly done. I can't decide if I want it to open from the top for storage or just be open in the front so I can slide in some of my flat tackle boxes. I also got in my new cables for my johnson shipmaster controls. Heres some pics of the aluminum box I built.






The seat bases will actually sit on top of the sheet metal but you can see what the angle across is for.






I may split the sheet at the angle and hinge it for access from the top. Then I would skin the front as well.


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## Derek (Aug 5, 2011)

nice work on the seating. I would say hinge from the top, you are not going to want to be on your knees figuring out which tackle box you want.


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## reedjj (Aug 5, 2011)

I like that seat/bench you built. I wish I would have done mine like that. I did mine out of 2x6 skinned with 11/32nds I think. It was kinda heavy. I had plans to re-do it with 15/32nds ply instead of 2x6 as the structure and skinn it with 11/32nds but I sold it.

When I did mine i thought that the 6'' high bench made of 2x6 with another 11/32nd of plywood plus the seat swivel and the seat bring my butt up to a perfect height for driving and riding. While it was fine I planned on making it 8'' high on the re-do. that would have put my butt at the same height as the aluminum bench once the cushion compressed.

How high did you make the bench? 6" was a little low or me.


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## reedjj (Aug 5, 2011)

If your going to make it so you can open it I would make two different access hatches one under each seat so you can open them independantly. It is kind of a pain to make your passenger get up everytime you need to get in there or the other way around.


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## BOB350RX (Aug 5, 2011)

i can tell you guys one thing i plan on being able to weld aluminum before my next project for sure!!! nice job!!!


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## Flatbotm (Aug 5, 2011)

Thanks for all the imput guys. Im going to make the access from the top, I see what you mean Derek about fishing out the tackle on your hands and knees. Hopefully my measuring was correct because the seat riser is only 6 inches but my swivel mounts have a 2 or 3 inch rise to them with a spring suspension thing. So I think seat height was around 13 inches but I'll have to remeasure when I get to work this afternoon. 
I planned the riser to make my seat height close to that of the stock bench since that is what the console was designed for. I was thinking of maybe some cup holders in the center as well.


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## Derek (Aug 5, 2011)

more cup holders the better


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## Flatbotm (Aug 6, 2011)

I got the skins for the riser cut today. I should be able to finish it tomorrow.


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## kunasbob (Aug 8, 2011)

just WOW!!!

=D> =D> =D> 

awesome looking build.

one of those last pictures of the T&G completed my first thought was the weight as well. while the comfort of everything decked and having storage is nice, being able to high tail it and have a great plane is higher on my list. I have a welded 1448 with a Merc thunderbolt 20hp, and about 30" of front deck out of plywood. its a good bit of weight. enough for me to consider against decking the floor at all. I'm still on the fence though. two people, and two full ice chest (ice, food, drinks, and a box full of a days limit), a few batteries, plus a livewell and gas tank: at 6-8lbs per gallon. the weight adds up quick.


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## kunasbob (Aug 8, 2011)

I also have a 99 TJ. not near a "built rig" but it enjoys rocks and such.


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## Jay D (Aug 8, 2011)

I am going to look at the same 1542 today 850 boat and trailer. Is the quality of the good on yours and is the metal thick enough? I have a 14' v hull 72 richline that is super thick metal it seems. thinking about upgrading to a 15' which is the max that will fit in the garage. Will yours take rough water well?


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## Flatbotm (Aug 8, 2011)

Thanks kunasbob! I'm not too worried about the weight. I can always trim the deck back and replace areas with aluminum. I could also build some floatation pods if need be. It is pretty much going to be a two person boat. One of my buddies wheels a tj. Great jeeps!

Jay d. If you want a boat that deals with rough water well don't buy a flat bottom buy a deep v. Flat bottoms plane quick, travel in shallow water, and are stable to stand and cast.


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## Flatbotm (Aug 8, 2011)

I finished up the seat riser tonight. I decided to omit the door for now access was too hindered with the seats in place so I decided to leave it off possible permanent. The seats also sit real close to the rear deck so much that they only move from side to side 3-4 inches. I will probably notch out the part of the deck that overhangs to make them pivot more. Other than that Im happy with the height and the leg room.


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## Flatbotm (Aug 9, 2011)

Tonight I built the mount for my teleflex steering cable. I found a piece of tube that fits the steering cable perfectly threaded on one end. I built a mount for the transom that will house the tube that the steering cable locks into. The tube will be held by three set screws which will give it some adjustability I welded the transom mount out of 1/4 inch plate and a piece of 3/8 aluminum tube that the tube that the threaded tube will lock into.
Here are some pics of the mount. My motor was a tiller so rather than buy the expensive adapter for the steering I built one for near free.
















I can move it up or down from here.


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## BaitCaster (Aug 10, 2011)

This is an amazing build. I'm getting lots of great ideas for my 1542!


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## Brine (Aug 10, 2011)

Great work! =D>


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## Flatbotm (Aug 10, 2011)

Thanks alot guys. Your builds are some of the ones Ive been following along with for some time now. Baitcaster rocket launchers are next on my list of mods for the boat. I cant decide between the style you used and the surface style mount. Nice thing about the rocket launchers is when your not using them they are not in the way. 

Today I continued on with modding my boat. The windshield showed up today from alumacraft and I have to say I was pleased with the quality for $54 dollars. Perfect fit and even had the alumacraft logo engraved into it. Also had rubber grommets and nice hardware. Here is the pics.


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## reedjj (Aug 10, 2011)

What a great build. You will have a great time in that Alumacraft. I really loved my swamp sled.

Im glad you went with the console option. Now Im not the only one to do it on that size boat! It makes it so much more fun to drive. Especially when you blow pass an entry level tracker bass boat with a 4 stroke 40 HP motor that cost some guy around $12,000.00 LOL. You will get lots of compliments at the ramp.


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## ohiolunker (Aug 10, 2011)

Impressive build. Well done.


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## bulldog (Aug 10, 2011)

Looks very clean!! =D> =D> =D> =D> =D>


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## mmf (Aug 11, 2011)

very nice build flatbotm. I wish I had a console like yours, everything looks great! :wink:


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## Brine (Aug 11, 2011)

I keep imagining patio furniture sitting on your front deck. :mrgreen: 

You've done a great job! Congrats =D>


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## Flatbotm (Aug 11, 2011)

Wow thanks for all the attaboy's guys. I still have a long way to go before this little boat is done. I missed a deal on a 86 tx17 a few weeks back a guy I know sold it with a 80 hp merc for $1000. Then I would have had another boat project in waiting. 

I still have the custom Bimini to build, all my electrical including maybe some bluewater LEDs, a grab bar like Bruce from swamp people so I can stand and steer, rod holders, and the list goes on and on. 

I was thinking of sinking a few tempress hatches in the front deck to add more storage and take off some more weight. What do you guys think?


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## super_dork (Aug 11, 2011)

Holy Cow! Very impressive. I was just looking around and found your build. I love the planks instead of plywood. 

You mentioned that you may add some grip tape at some point. Did you ever do that? That was my main concern when I was looking at the no carpet route - just don't want to slip off the deck.

I may have to start my whole project over. Very nice!


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## Flatbotm (Aug 11, 2011)

Thanks superdork! I haven't found OD green grip tape yet for my anti slip strips. I may use spray in bedliner material and then paint it OD. I like your bunk stop on the front of your trailer I'm going to change mine because I don't like the way the roller sits against the boat. I wouldn't start over on your boat just keep modding.


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## reedjj (Aug 11, 2011)

Tape it off and use Herculiner. Then paint it whatever color you want!


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## Flatbotm (Aug 11, 2011)

Thanks jj. I have some herculiner in the garage right now and some OD green paint. Its what I was planning but it is good to hear from someone who knows what works.


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## Flatbotm (Aug 17, 2011)

Tonight I worked on getting my Johnson Shipmaster ready for the boat. Recently I picked up a 78 evinrude 35 hp long shaft it has thru the prop exhaust so I am thinking of running it instead of my 25 even though I will have to run a jack plate. The 1542 is only rated for 25hp but that is by new standards. I checked the weight of a new 25hp 4 stroke and the 35 rude is much lighter so I should be fine. Let me know what you guys think.

Here are the pics of the controls.


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## Ictalurus (Aug 18, 2011)

From my point of view, go with the 35 :lol: But others may warn of insurance claims and the like. The 4 strokes are nice, but you get one heck of a bang for your buck with the older 2 strokes.


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## Derek (Aug 18, 2011)

just paint a 25 on it. haha
controls came out nice, wanna do mine


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## Flatbotm (Aug 18, 2011)

I'm sure it's not much more power than a new 25 hp outboard. It is actually the same size as a 25 so with a paint job no one could tell the difference. Would you buy a jack plate or build it? Is there any real advantages to moving the motor back? I thought of building one that just goes straight up from the transom 5 inches.


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## Derek (Aug 18, 2011)

I would build one, it is super simple. even with just going straight up you still will get a couple inches of setback. The setback distance depends on what size angle you will use.


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## Ictalurus (Aug 18, 2011)

I built one, the next one I'll buy, but if I had your fabrication skills it would be a no brainer. Since you are going to a console steer, you don't have to worry about increasing the setback to make more room for the tiller. Although, increasing the setback distance will get your motor to run in "cleaner water".


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## Flatbotm (Aug 18, 2011)

Do you guys think 1/4 plate would be heavy enough to build it out of? Any pics or links of good designs?


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## Derek (Aug 18, 2011)

Easiest way is the multiple angle design.
Slot the holes with a mill and it will be more adjustable.

Similar to this
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=21061&hilit=jack+plate


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## Ictalurus (Aug 18, 2011)

I used 1/4" on mine, steel though (price and availability of aluminum). Two angle pieces on each side, like Derek said for adjustability, and two 4" x 12" pieces as a backing. I also used 1/2" bolts, would cut down to 3/8" next time. Mine is on pg 4 of my build (1440 PK), I'd tweek a few things (use aluminum and smaller bolts) but otherwise it's about the same as every other home brew jackplate that I've seen.


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## Flatbotm (Aug 18, 2011)

I went to the aluminum recycling place this afternoon and the closest thing I could find was a 5 foot piece of 3*5" 3/8 thick angle and a 3 footer of 5" 3/8 flat so that is what I'm building it out of. Cost was $48. 1/4 the price of a hd jack plate.


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## Flatbotm (Aug 21, 2011)

So I was wrong the angle was 1/4 and the flat stock was 3/8 woops! Oh well I Improvised. Here are the pics of the jack plate thus far. Its 5 inches of stand off and Initially it will have 5 inches of vertical rise but will be adjustable.


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## Derek (Aug 22, 2011)

that looks great
How do you plan to make it adjustable? Are you going to slot the holes or just stagger them.


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## Ictalurus (Aug 22, 2011)

Great looking jackplate. Now mine does not look like just about every other homemade job :? 

=D> =D> =D>


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## Flatbotm (Aug 22, 2011)

Thanks guys. Derek I'd planned to just stagger the holes because I don't have access to a mill to slot them. Ive slotted holes manually before but its a pain. How finite adjustment do I need?


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## Derek (Aug 22, 2011)

The finite adjustment is the reason to slot them. Most people adjust them in increments of 1/2" anyway, so you should be fine with that spacing.


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## Flatbotm (Aug 22, 2011)

Cool I'll just go with the 1/2 spacing then. For the initial run how high should I jack the motor. Cav plate even or 1/2 inch up? Also what size bolts and how many for bolting to the transom? Any Special silicone?


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## mmf (Aug 22, 2011)

Flatbotm, this is the best sealant I have ever used on transom fasteners and on any thing to seal out water, it is polyurethane and it turns to a tough rubber like compund when dry (takes about 3 days to fully cure). Warning, wear gloves or you will have to wear it off of your hands!


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## Flatbotm (Aug 23, 2011)

Thanks MMF! I'm going to go pick up some locktite. Do you guys think (4) 1/2 bolts would be enough to hold the transom to the boat?


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## mmf (Aug 23, 2011)

Flatbotm said:


> Thanks MMF! I'm going to go pick up some locktite. Do you guys think (4) 1/2 bolts would be enough to hold the transom to the boat?


Are you meaning the jack plate? If so, 4 might get it but I would use 6 to be on the safe side......PS, on that Loctite PL adhesive, make sure it is the "roof and flashing" sealer.....good luck and watchin your build..... 8)


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## Flatbotm (Aug 23, 2011)

What I meant to ask was do you think (4) 1/2 bolts will be enough to hold the jackplate to the transom? Sometimes I post with my phone and it is easy to make typos. I want to make as few holes as possible in the transom.


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## mmf (Aug 24, 2011)

Flatbotm said:


> What I meant to ask was do you think (4) 1/2 bolts will be enough to hold the jackplate to the transom? Sometimes I post with my phone and it is easy to make typos. I want to make as few holes as possible in the transom.


probably so, my 150 HP Mercury only has 4 SS- 1/2" bolts holding it to the transom, as a matter of fact, all my motors have 4 SS- 1/2" bolts going thru transom.......


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## Derek (Aug 24, 2011)

agreed, my 70 has 4 - 1/2" bolts holding it on


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## Flatbotm (Aug 24, 2011)

I was hoping 4 would be enough because I allready bought 4 and they were $4.00 each. My local true value didn't have the right locktite stuff so I'm going to try home depot today. 

I used my little bending break to make a bracket for the controls yesterday.


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## Flatbotm (Aug 26, 2011)

Tonight I finished drilling all the holes in the jack plate. I picked up the locktite pl stuff. Do you guys with homemade jack plates mount a piece of wood where the motor clamps? I will be drilling the transom and mounting the jack plate in the morning and I was wondering if I should mount some wood or sandwich some wood in aluminum like the transom?


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## Flatbotm (Aug 28, 2011)

So I didn't get completely done this weekend as planned but I did completely finish the jackplate and it is in place and ready to drill and mount. I used a piece of Brazilian walnut for the motor mount clamps ( i am going to bolt it as well). I used some linseed oil to treat the wood. I counter sunk the stainless screws holding the (ipe) Brazilian walnut to the jack plate. I have stainless 3/8 bolts for the jack plate as well as 1/2 stainless to bolt it to the transom. Here's the pics.


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## Derek (Aug 30, 2011)

Looks great


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## Flatbotm (Aug 30, 2011)

I am getting ready to hang the new motor and Im trying to decide where to set the jack plate up for the first run. Setting it at 5 inches of raise the bottom of the drain plug is right at 20". The bottom of the rest of the boat is 19.25 or so. I know the cavitation plate should be even with the bottom of the boat but is that refering to the lowest point? Here is the bottom of the boat so you can see what Im asking.


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## mmf (Aug 30, 2011)

flatbotm, it's the flat part of the boat, don't count the tube....PS, if you experiment with motor height for better speed, don't get too high and starve the water pump from water without a low water pickup, it will make fast history of your motor!


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## Flatbotm (Aug 30, 2011)

Thanks MMF! Now I just need to do some careful measuring of the long shaft rude.


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## Flatbotm (Sep 5, 2011)

I had to order a new steering tube for my 35 hp rude. Removing a rusty old steering tube can be a chore. I had to cut the end off that the steering connects to. I got the new tube from warners dock. About $75 for a new stainless tube. Heres a pic of the new motor.


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## mmf (Sep 6, 2011)

You'll be glad you changed that tube, I have had alot of people bring their boats to me to work on that the steering was "bound" up by rust in the tube, most of them thought they needed a new steering cable but that was not the case. Keep up the good work you're almost there!


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## Flatbotm (Sep 6, 2011)

Thanks MMF. There was no way I could hook up my brand new teleflex steering to that rusty corroded old steering tube. I can't wait to get her on the water. Hopefully she flys with the 35!


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## Derek (Sep 6, 2011)

I cleaned all the corrosion out of mine before installing the motor. Used Never-Seize to keep it moving


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## reedjj (Sep 6, 2011)

Flatbotm said:


> Thanks MMF. There was no way I could hook up my brand new teleflex steering to that rusty corroded old steering tube. I can't wait to get her on the water. Hopefully she flys with the 35!



I was flirting with 33mph in my 1542 "SwampSled" running the 25hp merc 2 stroke. If I had been able to raise my motor another inch or 1 1/2 inches it would have been a consistent 33mph. I bet you are close to 40mph with the 35hp on there!

It will be fun the first couple runs, then you'll get used to it and start lookin for a faster prop! LOL! Looks great!


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## Flatbotm (Sep 7, 2011)

Man jj I hope she runs that fast! Derek I would ave saved the steering tube if I could have but it was just too far gone. The new tube is installed and it will get plenty of antiseize. I'm trying to figure out my paint scheme for the new motor before I hang it.


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## Flatbotm (Sep 8, 2011)

That 35 long shaft looks huge on my 1542!


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## mmf (Sep 9, 2011)

Jack plate looks great flatbotm!


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## Derek (Sep 9, 2011)

Are you going to be able to use those Jonson controls with the 35? I assume you don't have a steering arm for the motor, are you going to try to source one or just build one.


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## Flatbotm (Sep 9, 2011)

Yep Derek I'm using the johnson shipmaster controls with all new teleflex cables. I've got the new teleflex steering connected to the motor. Now the only thing I need is the steering arm. The guy I bought the 35 from wouldn't give his up. I did get the end off of the arm that connects to the motor. What do guys usually make them from?


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## Derek (Sep 9, 2011)

Flatbotm said:


> The guy I bought the 35 from wouldn't give his up.



hmm I always thought the arms were motor specific, did he have another of the same motor? Anyway, both of the ones I have are bent/formed bar. Don't have a good picture, sorry.
Both of mine only have bends in the vertical direction, to make up the distance between mounting points. They are straight in the direction parallel to the steering tube. I would think you could bend one up out of some plate aluminum then gusset at the bends so you don't have a weak spot. It really depends on the vertical distance between the steering and the motor-side mount.


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## Flatbotm (Sep 9, 2011)

The guy needed money in a hurry so he sold the motor off his boat to me for $300. He said he would find another rude when times were better. I tried to get all the controls from him but he wouldn't part with them. Oh well it shouldn't be too hard to fab something up.


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## Flatbotm (Sep 20, 2011)

Here's what I came up with on my steering.


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## Derek (Sep 21, 2011)

Looks great, almost looks stock. Did you make sure it still clears when the motor is tilted up?


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## Flatbotm (Sep 21, 2011)

Whoops! I forgot to check for tilt clearance. I'll have to check when I get home today. It has a quick disconnect on the motor side so worse case I'll have to pop it off when I tilt the motor. At least until I have time to make another arm.


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## Derek (Sep 21, 2011)

From your picture it looks like it may have enough clearance. I think that is the reason most arms have a bend in them though.


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## Flatbotm (Sep 21, 2011)

I was wondering why they usually have the bend in them. I happen to have another chunk of the threaded tube that I made the steering tube from. Instead of a bend I will probably make a 90 with a small gusset. My smallest die for the bender is 1 in which is way overkill for the steering tube.


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## Flatbotm (Sep 21, 2011)

Well I lucked out everything clears!


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## Ictalurus (Sep 21, 2011)

See, nothing to worry about :lol:


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## Derek (Sep 22, 2011)

nice should be almost ready for a test run?


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## Flatbotm (Sep 22, 2011)

She's getting real close. I have to hook up my other cables and do a little electrical. Then I'm ready for some flat out fun. Haha


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## Derek (Sep 22, 2011)

he will be here all week folks


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## Flatbotm (Sep 22, 2011)

Not sure what you mean Derek? The electrical I have to do is fairly simple stuff. Just hooking up a few light switches and remote start and kill. I have a stereo for the boat too but I may wait for that.


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## Derek (Sep 22, 2011)

It was in response to your joke, like your a comedian. Flat out fun. :mrgreen:


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## Flatbotm (Sep 22, 2011)

Haha I get it now. Not enough coffee this morning. I actually thought of flat out fun when brainstorming for boat names. Flat out, flat flyin, flat boat fever, flatbotm's flyer, hope floats with a real small it in the middle. None of these are sticking yet.


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## Derek (Sep 22, 2011)

flat bottom girl


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## Flatbotm (Sep 22, 2011)

I like that one! I might have to run that one by the boss. I mean my wife. I mean my boss. Are all boats female? Mine is. I guess I could call it "other wife"


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## Derek (Sep 22, 2011)

Anything I have ever owned with a motor is considered a girl in my opinion. Kinda ironic I guess


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## Mattyf19 (Jan 8, 2012)

flatbotm - i really like this build! this is one of the best i've seen. Have you had it out on the water yet? hows it handle w/ the extra weight from the decking / framing / etc? i am looking to get into a 1542 myself and i like how this gives you alot of options to build onto as time and budget permits! what is your tow rig? i have a 97 tj with a 4 cyc, hoping thats enough to tow the boat and trailer.


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## Flatbotm (Jul 8, 2012)

My new tin.


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## Flatbotm (Jul 9, 2012)

So I know this is not the typical tin boat build but I picked it up for 2k and I'm going to mod it. My Jon is great for not crowded lakes but Colorado had bathtubs so I'm building a deep v. Heres the pics of the inside.


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## Flatbotm (Aug 13, 2012)

I picked up a new motor for the 1542. 1993 Yamaha 25 with controls.


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## Flatbotm (Aug 20, 2012)

I did a bunch of work to the alumacraft this weekend. I got all the wiring done and cleaned up. Cleaned up and painted the Yamaha plus got all the controls hooked up for the remote start remote choke. Here's the pics. 



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## Flatbotm (Aug 20, 2012)

I did a bunch of work to the alumacraft this weekend. I got all the wiring done and cleaned up. Cleaned up and painted the Yamaha plus got all the controls hooked up for the remote start remote choke. Here's the pics.


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## Flatbotm (Aug 28, 2012)

Last night I sold the 1542. I got a offer I couldn't refuse. I picked up another new tin besides the blue fin. This one will be kept much lighter but I still plan to mod it.


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## Zum (Aug 28, 2012)

Buddy must have really liked what you did with her.
What size new tin did you get?


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## Flatbotm (Aug 28, 2012)

I went smaller so me and a buddy can get the boat on the small ponds I have axcess to. I got a 2001 crestliner 12 ft. This way I'll have a boat for ponds and electric lakes and a boat for big water. 






It will fit in the back of my truck barely. 






It's wide enough two guys can stand and fish.


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## Flatbotm (Aug 30, 2012)

I have a question for all you guys with 12ft v bottoms. How fast approximately will a 9.9 move a 12 footer? The boat is rated for a 10hp US and 15hp in Canada. Canadian coast guard must be a little more lenient.


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## Zum (Aug 30, 2012)

I have a 2006 crestliner,only has one rating...US coast guard,kinda funny seeing as I'm in Canada.
I know of acouple boats that had to ratings but the Canadian one was lower.
There also a kilowatt rating and sometimes people get that messed up with hp.
A 7.5kw would be around 10hp.

As to your question,I've used a 9.9hp on alittle homemade wood/fiberglass 12'er and it felt like I was flying...just a guess but low 20's?


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## Flatbotm (Aug 30, 2012)

Thanks Zum! I figured low 20s but wanted to confirm. The kw rating is on the Canadian tag as well as hp. But it's positively 10hp us and 15hp Canada. I bet a 15 would be fun. Are there any 15s that are the same weight as 9.9s. Or are 15s built off the 25 platform. The cresty is a stout little boat and is better suited for my small boat needs. I was a little sad to see the 1542 go cause I has alot of work in her.


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## Zum (Aug 31, 2012)

I'm not a motor head but I do know there are alot of 9.9's that are detuned 15's.
The 15hp and 9.9's are the same weight(in alot of cases) and I know some 9.9's can be revamped up to a 15hp.
It's can be as simple as a carb change on a few years of motors but others take carbs,reeds and exhaust tuning.
I think you'll be pleasantly surprized with the power of a good running 9.9.
If you do want alittle more horses though,ask a question in the motor section,I'm sure someone will tell you what years of outboard to look for.I have a mid 80's evinrude and I think it will last forever,I think the same design has been around for 20+ years.


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## Flatbotm (Sep 4, 2012)

What do you think about a 80s evinrude 8 hp. I found one in a short shaft. 9.9 short shafts seem to be hard to find around here. I made over my old utility trailer this weekend to double as a cresty trailer.


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## Flatbotm (Sep 9, 2012)

I picked up a small outboard for the crestliner this week. A little Suzuki 2.5 4stroke. This will serve as a light motor for carry in. 30#er. I will pick up a 9.9 for trailer in times. Here's the 2.5. I picked it up for $250.


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## Scott1298 (Sep 10, 2012)

That sounds like a good deal, but you won't be satisfied once you experience a 9.9 on it!
I had the same idea, but can't bring myself to get rid of any of them... I think it's a disease  
A 10' jon with very few mods, pushed by a 3.3 hp merc and/or 30 lb electric that we can load/carry. (Seems slow now.)
A 15' jon lightly modded, pushed by a 6 hp merc and/or 55 lb electric to trailer. (Bearable, but a 9.9 would be better if it wasn't for the extra weight on my transom when trailering.)
A 20' open bow 240 hp jet to entertain the kids. (Fast... and I figured out a way to mount an electric motor and downrigger to fish!)


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## Flatbotm (Sep 11, 2012)

Im sure I won't be happy with the power but if I have to carry the boat I'll be happy with the weight. The plan is to pick up a 9.9 or a 15hp so if I trailer the boat I won't be stuck with the 2.5. It was such a deal for a 2010 Suzuki 4 stroke I couldn't pass it up. I have a 5 hp 4stroke mercury kicker on my blue fin I could throw on there too.


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## sixgun86 (Sep 11, 2012)

I've got a 15 4stroke on a 12' similar to yours that's rated for 10hp and it's get about 25mph. That is a great deal on the 2.5hp. You did a great job on your 1542. Looking forward to the 12v mods.


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## Flatbotm (Sep 12, 2012)

Thanks Sixgun. Hopefully I'll come across a nice 15hp or 9.9 for cheap. I still have the 35hp rude that came off the 1542. I bet the 12 could do 50mph till the 35 tore the transom off. Hoping to sell the 35 to get $$ for a 15hp. I have some plans for the 12 but this time I'm going mostly aluminum and keeping it light.


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## Flatbotm (Sep 14, 2012)

Well I scrapped my utility trailer idea. Last night I came across a small shorelandr trailer for $200.


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## Flatbotm (Oct 10, 2012)

Well I put the little crestliner to work again last weekend. I know now it needs cup holders, seats, and rod holders at a minimum.


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## trueblue1970 (Oct 10, 2012)

Thats alot of dead bass


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## trueblue1970 (Oct 10, 2012)

Oh...and nice job on the 1542


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## Flatbotm (Oct 10, 2012)

33 we probably threw back as many. Small private lake that's borderline on overpopulated. We had a big fish fry that night.


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## trueblue1970 (Oct 11, 2012)

Gotcha...Ive never seen so many out of the water like that. Nice to be able to have a pond overpopulated with bass... The boat looks great...must have been hard to sell


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## Flatbotm (Oct 15, 2012)

Yep it was hard to part with the 1542 but $3500 talked me out of it. I may build another bigger jon again.


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## Gators5220 (Nov 12, 2012)

That's a lot of bass meat! Killin it!


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## Flatbotm (Jul 31, 2013)

Picked up another tin for $90


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## Flatbotm (Jul 31, 2013)

I added some seats and rod holders to the cresty. No mods Other than that yet. The girlfriend and I have been putting it to good use.


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## Flatbotm (Aug 1, 2013)

I need some opinions on a casting deck in a 12' v bottom boat. Does anyone have one? And how stable is it?


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## Flatbotm (Aug 7, 2013)

Ok I have to admit it I did regret selling my 1542! So I'm starting a new project and I'm selling the crestliner when it's finished. Ill start a new thread for the Grumman project. But here is the pics.


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## DrNip (Aug 7, 2013)

Pretty boat. I was checking it out on Craigslist myself.


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## coreyprashaw (Aug 10, 2013)

Who owned it? Skeet Reese?!


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## Flatbotm (Aug 12, 2013)

LoL. The Grumman was owned by a 15 year old. It was a father son project. I asked him if it was supposed to be the transformers edition. It's gonna be some work stripping all that yellow!


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## coreyprashaw (Aug 12, 2013)

IMO I would't strip the yellow! I would paint more black and kind of leave the yellow as an accent. Just my 2 cents. But it sure is a beaut, and will give you a pretty good place to start. I'm excited to see the progress.


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## SquiggyFreud (Sep 12, 2013)

[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=218770#p218770 said:


> Flatbotm » 10 Aug 2011, 19:42[/url]"]Thanks alot guys. Your builds are some of the ones Ive been following along with for some time now. Baitcaster rocket launchers are next on my list of mods for the boat. I cant decide between the style you used and the surface style mount. Nice thing about the rocket launchers is when your not using them they are not in the way.
> 
> Today I continued on with modding my boat. The windshield showed up today from alumacraft and I have to say I was pleased with the quality for $54 dollars. Perfect fit and even had the alumacraft logo engraved into it. Also had rubber grommets and nice hardware. Here is the pics.




May I ask where you got the windshield from? Looking for one for my console.


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## Flatbotm (Sep 12, 2013)

I purchased the console and the windshield direct from Alumacraft. The prices were very reasonable.


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## SquiggyFreud (Sep 12, 2013)

I emailed them a few minutes ago, hope to hear back soon, thansk for the info!!


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