# newbie with '73 25hp Evinrude carb question



## rkc118 (Sep 21, 2016)

I just picked up my first boat ever and am in the process of getting it ready to go on the water. Does anyone have a good resource where i can see how the carb and choke connections should be set up. I have the service manual, but would like to be able to see an actual picture if possible. I have not made any changes from how it was when I got it last week, but I am not sure that everything is correct. I have zero experience with motors and realize that i have a lot to learn.

I was able to get the motor started and ran it in a barrel for a while, but I just have a gut feeling that something isn't right.

thanks


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## brassyb (Sep 22, 2016)

I've got a '73 20 HP Johnson, that has the exact same carb.

Unfortunately, my choke lever was replaced with bailing wire. I'm getting parts on Friday to replace the wire with the actual choke lever. Once I get that installed hopefully this weekend I'll check mine out and let you know how it behaves.

I'm in the same boat you are -- this is my first outboard and it's been neglected.


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## Shaugh (Sep 22, 2016)

lots of good photos here. Looks like the adjustment screw is broken off ?

https://s1052.photobucket.com/user/PikeSlayer83/media/GEDC0353.jpg.html


https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&p=251956


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## rkc118 (Sep 22, 2016)

brassyb said:


> I've got a '73 20 HP Johnson, that has the exact same carb.
> 
> Unfortunately, my choke lever was replaced with bailing wire. I'm getting parts on Friday to replace the wire with the actual choke lever. Once I get that installed hopefully this weekend I'll check mine out and let you know how it behaves.
> 
> I'm in the same boat you are -- this is my first outboard and it's been neglected.



cool, i will post here with anything that i notice and hopefully between the 2 of us we will have 2 well running motors


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## rkc118 (Sep 22, 2016)

Shaugh said:


> lots of good photos here. Looks like the adjustment screw is broken off ?
> 
> https://s1052.photobucket.com/user/PikeSlayer83/media/GEDC0353.jpg.html
> 
> ...




thanks, that was just was i was looking for! hopefully i will have some time to work on it this weekend


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## brassyb (Sep 23, 2016)

So I got my new choke lever installed, and when my choke knob is all the way pulled out, it's almost 100% closed. There might be a small sliver of open space, but it's completely closed for the most part.


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## CMOS (Sep 23, 2016)

To the both of you: new fuel lines and fuel filter.

Before hooking up the new fuel lines to your newly cleaned carbs, use the primer bulb on the fuel tank line to flush the lines. Get out any debris in the system so it doesn't get into you nice;y cleaned carb.

Good luck. 25 HP is a really nice tiller to have!

CMOS


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## rkc118 (Sep 25, 2016)

CMOS said:


> To the both of you: new fuel lines and fuel filter.
> 
> Before hooking up the new fuel lines to your newly cleaned carbs, use the primer bulb on the fuel tank line to flush the lines. Get out any debris in the system so it doesn't get into you nice;y cleaned carb.
> 
> ...




I had thought about the fuel lines, the ones inside the motor were not original for sure, so i looked more closely and they were made in 2007. they are Bombardier ES 1763 and stamped with the date and time they were made. take a look at the picture below, they should be ethanol resistant and not need replaced, correct?

also re: the fuel filter, part # 3 in the diagram from this link is what you are referring to, correct?

https://www.marineengine.com/parts/...5302A&manufacturer=Evinrude&section=Fuel+Pump

i had popped that off last week and looked at it, it looks clean to me, not sure about that discoloration though. any thoughts?

thanks


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## rkc118 (Sep 25, 2016)

brassyb said:


> So I got my new choke lever installed, and when my choke knob is all the way pulled out, it's almost 100% closed. There might be a small sliver of open space, but it's completely closed for the most part.



mine does not do that, it only closes maybe 25%. looks like i have to figure out how to fix it. i need to look more closely at those pictures and see what i can figure out.


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## rkc118 (Sep 25, 2016)

I was able to replace the dry-rotted kill switch today. I bought a seadog universal lanyard killswitch. it came without any wires to use. the service manual says the originals are 18 gauge. i didn't have anything laying around that i was sure was 18 gauge. i almost used some 14 gauge electrical wire, but decided to use some extra trailer light wire which looked to be the same size. I clipped the corroded wire and connected them together because i couldn't figure out how to get the original wire connector out of the plastic housing clip. the guy at the autoparts store thought i could use a "pickset tool" to do that, but i don't have one of those. he also suggested i use vinyl tape instead of electrical tape to cover these connections, so i was thinking of going to buy some of that. should this be OK or should i just go buy some 18 gauge wire, will it make a difference? I'm also worried the trailer wire might not be insulated enough to stand the heat of the motor.

thanks


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## CMOS (Sep 25, 2016)

rkc118 said:


> CMOS said:
> 
> 
> > To the both of you: new fuel lines and fuel filter.
> ...




The fuel screen is there to help but I would still suggest you install a true inline fuel filter between the fuel pump and the carb. This will filter out even very small pieces of debris.

Als0, at 7+ years old, just go ahead and replace the fuel lines. It's literally only a few bucks, and there may very well be material improvements made to the hoses since 2007.

CMOS


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## CMOS (Sep 25, 2016)

rkc118 said:


> I was able to replace the dry-rotted kill switch today. I bought a seadog universal lanyard killswitch. it came without any wires to use. the service manual says the originals are 18 gauge. i didn't have anything laying around that i was sure was 18 gauge. i almost used some 14 gauge electrical wire, but decided to use some extra trailer light wire which looked to be the same size. I clipped the corroded wire and connected them together because i couldn't figure out how to get the original wire connector out of the plastic housing clip. the guy at the autoparts store thought i could use a "pickset tool" to do that, but i don't have one of those. he also suggested i use vinyl tape instead of electrical tape to cover these connections, so i was thinking of going to buy some of that. should this be OK or should i just go buy some 18 gauge wire, will it make a difference? I'm also worried the trailer wire might not be insulated enough to stand the heat of the motor.
> 
> thanks




The wire itself will be fine. The air temperature inside the cowling is not that high. My only concern with what you did is the crimp terminations. I'm anal, and I don't like them. At some point, the crimp connections will oxidize. I always solder these connections. A soldered connection is hermetic, which will not oxidize. It'll work for now but I'd suggest getting an inexpensive Weller soldering iron, watch a couple YouTube videos and learn to solder those connections.

CMOS


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## rkc118 (Sep 25, 2016)

CMOS said:


> The fuel screen is there to help but I would still suggest you install a true inline fuel filter between the fuel pump and the carb. This will filter out even very small pieces of debris.
> 
> CMOS




any suggestions on which one to get? sounds like something i could work on over the winter.


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## rkc118 (Sep 25, 2016)

CMOS said:


> The wire itself will be fine. The air temperature inside the cowling is not that high. My only concern with what you did is the crimp terminations. I'm anal, and I don't like them. At some point, the crimp connections will oxidize. I always solder these connections. A soldered connection is hermetic, which will not oxidize. It'll work for now but I'd suggest getting an inexpensive Weller soldering iron, watch a couple YouTube videos and learn to solder those connections.
> 
> CMOS




thanks, advice like that is much appreciated.


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## CMOS (Sep 25, 2016)

rkc118 said:


> CMOS said:
> 
> 
> > The fuel screen is there to help but I would still suggest you install a true inline fuel filter between the fuel pump and the carb. This will filter out even very small pieces of debris.
> ...




Check your fuel line ID, but I think this should work: 0388742 - Fuel Filter

CMOS


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## rkc118 (Oct 1, 2016)

I think that I have the throttle connected correctly. here is a short video: https://youtu.be/qW62LUOfZNc

any thoughts?


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## CMOS (Oct 1, 2016)

Hard to see clearly but note that the throttle plate should be almost, or completely "closed" when you engage the choke. You may have to make some adjustments to the linkage to make this happen, but you do seem to be on the right track.

Keep us posted.


CMOS


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## rkc118 (Oct 2, 2016)

finally got out on the water for the first time today. everything went very well. started up easily on the second pull. the killswitch that i installed worked as it should. lost power once. the picture is a bit out of focus, but there is a plastic piece (don't know what it is called) that is pushed into the cam follower and then connects to the throttle linkage. it popped out. i was able to put it back in and there were no problems after that. is there something that i should do to make sure that does not happen again?


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## rkc118 (Jun 30, 2017)

finally gave up trying to figure this out myself and took the motor to a marina. here is a link to a video I took of how it looks now that it is running OK. hopefully someone can learn from it down the line.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kbGUDgxIUE0


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## nccatfisher (Jul 1, 2017)

You still may have a problem. If you just applied the choke to start and then took it off and immediately had a fouled plug I am guessing you will find you have either a rich low fuel/air setting or ignition problems. You stated you were going to try starting with no choke. Good luck with that.


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## rkc118 (Jul 2, 2017)

nccatfisher said:


> You still may have a problem. If you just applied the choke to start and then took it off and immediately had a fouled plug I am guessing you will find you have either a rich low fuel/air setting or ignition problems. You stated you were going to try starting with no choke. Good luck with that.



Thanks for the ideas, i will fiddle around with the mixture and see what happens. Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot the ignition that you mentioned?



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## nccatfisher (Jul 2, 2017)

rkc118 said:


> nccatfisher said:
> 
> 
> > You still may have a problem. If you just applied the choke to start and then took it off and immediately had a fouled plug I am guessing you will find you have either a rich low fuel/air setting or ignition problems. You stated you were going to try starting with no choke. Good luck with that.
> ...


 I would first get it running again with new plugs if it appears to be running rich idling I would reset that low speed setting. Then I would see if I had anymore issues with plug fouling. Next I would start at the points/condenser, check them for pitting and proper setting. Or just go ahead and replace them if they were not replaced when you took it to the mechanic.


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