# 18' Duracraft Rebuild



## JOHNSON44 (Oct 13, 2010)

I have a 1990 Duracraft 18X60 that arrived with a full length aluminum duck blind, built in corroded gas tank, three propane heater stations, a wobbly standup steering console and a completely rotted out plywood floor, and two 48 HP Johnsons on a boat rated to 50HP. My winter project is to take the boat down to the bare aluminum, rebuild the floor, add a steering console, put one of the 48s back on the boat, and generally rig it out for fishing. That would include livewell, pedestal seats, electric trolling motor up front and probably a 4 HP kicker if I can get it started. After the boat itself, I plan to rebuild the carburetors (never done that before) and do a water pump rebuild also. I have posted three photos as "before" and will post more as we proceed. I am looking for good ideas for floor material, console plans and suggestions, wiring ideas, storage ideas, and advice on how to proceed with the carburetors, and anything else.
Not sure what order the three photos will show up, but they are the intact boat as it arrived, how I got the blind off by myself, and progress to date (ready to pull out the old floor). Really looking forward to the exchange of ideas.


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## Nevillizer (Oct 14, 2010)

Thats an interesting motor set up. Some one put a lot of work into that thing. Going be a nice build, congrats.


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## DaveInGA (Oct 14, 2010)

Looks like you've got the basis for a really nice boat there. Welcome to the forum. :WELCOME:


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## Zum (Oct 14, 2010)

Quite a duck hunting machine,almost 100hp,phew.
I like how you took the blind off,was the blind aluminum or wood?
Nice size boat,have fun with it and welcome to the site.


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## lckstckn2smknbrls (Oct 14, 2010)

Hows it run with the twin motors?


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## tccanoe (Oct 14, 2010)

Are the motors counter rotating like in the glossey mags?


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## dtwarrow (Oct 14, 2010)

Your killing me... I'd give a ton to have a blind like that on large boat like that and here you are taking it off to make a fishing boat...lol.
Totally cool though. Smart way to get the blind off man. Props there... Looks like it will be a great boat when your done.

"I am looking for good ideas for floor material, console plans and suggestions, wiring ideas, storage ideas, and advice on how to proceed with the carburetors, and anything else."
My ideas- keep it simple: Aluminum floor / decks with carpet... Front and back decks with chairs and a nice TM in front. Storage under the decks...


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## JOHNSON44 (Oct 15, 2010)

I thought the motors would be counter rotating also, but they are not.Seems to run OK that way, the carbs were acting up so I was only flat out for a little while. Some loose gear blew off and it was "scary fast" as my son said. I do not like exceeding the HP rating anyway. The floor is almost out, really rotten and wet. Styrofoam under is chewed up and a real mess. I will post photos soon. The blind is all aluminum. I just did not like a single use boat that was useful only 60 days a year. The blind is on craigslist for sale. After all the old wood and carpet is out I plan to powerwash and then paint as needed. Keeps me out of trouble anyway. Thanks for the comments, I need all the help and advice I can get. This is my 6th boat not counting the current pontoon boat, three kayaks, a 10' Jon and a canoe.


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## benjineer (Oct 15, 2010)

tccanoe said:


> Are the motors counter rotating like in the glossey mags?



I think the smallest CR you can get today is about 115HP. Man, I bet that thing is scary fast!


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## Zum (Oct 15, 2010)

All aluminum blind.
Is it thick enough for flooring or any other mods your thing about?
Not sure what price your looking to get but may be worth more to you then what you'll get for it.
What was the hp rating on the boat?
Theres another person wondering about an all aluminum transom just wondering how yours is set up in the stern.


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## JOHNSON44 (Oct 15, 2010)

I am pretty sure the transom is all aluminum. I have pulled out the old rotten (and still wet) floor and all the styrofoam underneath. Critters had pretty well shredded the foam, I had little ghost t**ds floating all over. I picked up all I could then went to the nearest car wash for a good cleaning. You all should have seen the storm of styrofoam bits when the hi-pressure blasted them. Look like a snow globe from the inside. I have included a photo of the floor before and one after cleaning. Now the fun part begins with a clean boat.


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## DaveInGA (Oct 16, 2010)

Zum said:


> All aluminum blind.
> Is it thick enough for flooring or any other mods your thing about?
> Not sure what price your looking to get but may be worth more to you then what you'll get for it.



I agree with Zum on this one. I'd look at the all aluminum blind as a source for material before I went and sold it. With such a large boat, it may be hard to find a buyer for the blind who's willing to pay what it's likely worth and it may be hard to establish a value.

If you use the materials on your boat, you'll lose nothing.


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## JOHNSON44 (Nov 6, 2010)

The old floor is out, rotten 1/2 inch plywood, styrofoam floattaion and all.
Some inside painting done and new floatation in the floor.
I put in 2" stringers cut to level the floor. Anything wood in this boat gets two if not three coats of spar varnish.


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## JOHNSON44 (Nov 7, 2010)

Work in progress/ All wood in this boat gets at least to coats of Spar Urethane.


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## 2007NNBS (Nov 10, 2010)

I was thinking about running dual 15's on the back of my 16ft fisher marine but was not sure how it would drive. Does it not fight each other? can you post the throttle controls for me to see how it is done


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## JOHNSON44 (Nov 12, 2010)

Look at my forum "Change Dual Controls To Single", there are two pictures there of my controls. Basically two sets of controls bolted together. One throttle arm has the two tilt switches built into it. Everything was duplicated and I found it unnecessarily complicated. Also my 18' boat is rated for a 50 and it had two 48s on it. I consider that dangerous so I am going back to one 48 HP motor. The two motors did not seem to fight one another. But it was so fast the one time I had it flat out I was too scared to pay much attention to anything behind me. Hope this helps.


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## JOHNSON44 (Nov 12, 2010)

I wonder if anyone else has ever had to completely change plans in the middle of a rebuild? I had the great fortune to have a friend visit and take a look at my boat with the front deck extension mostly framed in, plywood decking cut, varnished and ready to go in. I mentioned that I was build ing a console next. Turns out he had a friend who took a console out of his 18' Tracker to convert to a mud motor and another friend wanted it and put it in his barn. This was several years ago. Long story short, the guy gave me the console (built in livewell), steering wheel and cable, free. So, I no longer need the front deck extension to put my livewell in. I took all the framing out, Built a cooler stand and am in process of a battery box. Saved a lot of floor room and I think it looks better. Pictures next time.


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## Zum (Nov 13, 2010)

Great find or fortune.
Every reason to change up there...


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## DaveInGA (Nov 13, 2010)

I'm a plan maker and generally like to stick to plans, but if an opportunity comes up for something better than what I planned, I'll change it immediately. It sounds like you've come into a great deal there and I think you're changing what you're going to do is a great idea. Love to see pics of the parts you got before you put them in.


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## hsiftac (Nov 13, 2010)

if i got a deal like that, i would stop in the middle of my build and make new plans! cant wait to see some more pictures


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## JOHNSON44 (Nov 15, 2010)

Looking back at this post, I am rather pleased with my progress to date (even if I do say so myself). Getting close to mechanicals on the outboard and that scares me more than a little. I tried to take good notes and pictures during the tear down. I guess I find out now how well I did.
The front is about ready for carpet and final interior painting. The cooler stand is done. I just get tired of a cooler always being in the way, or sliding around the boat, or never where I left it so I made a permanent home for it, secured with bungees and screw eyes later. The battery box is done and varnished, ready for paint and carpet on the lid. Plenty strong enough for a seat also. The battery cases will be secured to the floor and the batteries strapped in. Next will be the console that needs to be cleaned up and painted. I think I will raise it 3" off the floor so it is easy for my 6'4" to get to, both sitting and standing.


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## JOHNSON44 (Nov 15, 2010)

Continuing on, I plan to run the wires from one battery back to the transom to do all the motor hookups (ignition, tilt/trim, alternator). Just motor only stuff. Battery #2 will be for accessories, including the trolling motor connection. I plan to run pos and neg cables from #2 back to the console where I will hook up the lights, the livewell, and anything else that comes to mind. The battery box will include a two port maintenance charger to keep both batteries ready to go. I use this system on my pontoon boat. It is so nice to not worry about the batteries. I have installed the main cables I need either under the floor or left messengers to pull future cables. I have spent a goodly amount of time trying to envision useage patterns, "paint myself in the corner" type stuff, and future problems so things work together in the end.


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## JOHNSON44 (Nov 30, 2010)

No new pictures. I am down to wiring which is a slow process for me. All splices are soldered and shrink wrapped. One of my messenger strings broke when I tried to pull wire and that lost me a whole evening feeling around in strange places. I now use wire not string. I have the fuse panel started, the bow and stern lights working. The switches and gauges are in the console but not yet hooked up. AND, the 1993 48 HP Johnson is installed on the jack plate on the transom. I had to do some sideways maneuvering in the shop to get it to fit with the motor on. Nothing is hooked up but I can sit in it, turn the fan facing me and pretend. I wish I had a neat way of mounting the pump for the livewell and the transducer (both on the stern) with out more holes in the boat. More pictures soon.


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## hsiftac (Dec 1, 2010)

Sounds like youre making good progress, cant wait to see more pictures


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## JOHNSON44 (Dec 2, 2010)

Homemade Trolling motor mount is done and trolling motor installed and wired in. The 1993 48HP Johnson is on the boat with the original jackplate. The console is from a Tracker I think and designed to fit a sloping floor. My floor is flat so I added an angled platform under the console to make it level with my floor. That raises it a few inches and makes it easier for me to stand and run the boat. The bow and stern lights have new wire running to the three position pull switch. I have the gauges and switches temporarily installed in the console as I continue wiring. I think I will wire the livewell pumps in next. The new console has a built in live well. I am going slow with the wiring, soldering and shrink wrapping every connection and testing as I go. Here are some new pictures.


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## jcb (Dec 10, 2010)

I like big jon boat like this one here.Be carefull though as total weight addup very fast and you will need more horse power on her to get her to go.I allway wanted bigger jon boat as I only has 1448 rite now.I allso run big 20 footer Bass Cat though so i has me lake fishing covered and the 1448 is for river fishig.If I ever sells off me Cat it will be a 17 or 18 jon to replace an i will have about 80 horse power with prop lower unit and allso will have jet lower unit for river use.I just change hur out


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## JOHNSON44 (Dec 12, 2010)

Lost a few days due to duck hunting and I dropped one of the outboards on my right foot. Not broken but kinda ugly. Here are some new pics as the build continues. I am still wiring the console and about ready to put the gauges in. I found an ammeter (AMP Meter?) but I am not sure how to wire it in. I guess it measures the charging amps coming from the motor back to the battery? Is that right? Where do I wire it in? Anyway, the pump for the livewell fill is installed and wired, the locator is installed and wired. The plywood panel in the picture of the console is designed to hold my fuse panel and common ground. It is hinged so that once everything is wired it just swings up and is secured at the bottom of the console. My pontoon boat has wiring and fuses hidden inside the console and a real bear to get to. So I designed this to be easy access for the times I have to get to wiring, gauges and fuses.


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## JOHNSON44 (Jan 1, 2011)

More photos tomorrow. All wiring is done, controls are mounted and operating. I need to cleanup the wiring and get everything tucked away. I ordered 2 carb kits and a waterpump kit yesterday. That and carpet is the last things to do. More tomorrow.


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## JOHNSON44 (Jan 3, 2011)

Tried to post pictures today but kept losing the site? Pictures are of the new controls, wiring progress and new color for the motor.


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## JOHNSON44 (Jan 3, 2011)

OK, fixed the problem on my end. Here are the latest pictures. The wiring is done once I get the kill switch added in. I think I figured that out from info on the web and the service manual. The kill switch basically interrupts the grond from the ignition circuit. I had a friend sink his boat this winter because he had no kill switch to shut the Go-Devil motor off. No one hurt but too scary anyway. I still need to paint the cosole access panel and button that up. The stick is temporary. Would like to figure out a cover for the controls. So far so good, carpet and motor things and I should be ready for spring.


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## JOHNSON44 (Jan 3, 2011)

Three more "after" pictures. Hove to get a latch to hold the console panel in place.


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## JOHNSON44 (Jan 3, 2011)

Oops, here is the infamous stick picture


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## mmf (Jan 4, 2011)

JOHNSON44 said:


> OK, fixed the problem on my end. Here are the latest pictures. The wiring is done once I get the kill switch added in. I think I figured that out from info on the web and the service manual. The kill switch basically interrupts the grond from the ignition circuit. I had a friend sink his boat this winter because he had no kill switch to shut the Go-Devil motor off. No one hurt but too scary anyway. I still need to paint the cosole access panel and button that up. The stick is temporary. Would like to figure out a cover for the controls. So far so good, carpet and motor things and I should be ready for spring.



Kill switches actually ground the STOP wire to stop the motor.


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## JOHNSON44 (Feb 17, 2011)

After a truly bitter winter when even the stove in my shop could not keep up, the boat is done. Picked up the repaired carb bowl yesterday and put the carbs back on today. When the weather settles a little more, I shall pull her out of the shop, hook up the water and see if it runs. If all goes well this will conclude this project. What to do next winter? 
A huge thank you to everyone on this thread that helped me with all the things I could not understand. I truly could not have done it without you, many many thanks.


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## Decatur (Feb 17, 2011)

Turned out nice! That console was a lucky find. You probably could have padded the top of the livewell and had an extra seat, or just have them sit on a boat cushion. Did you sell the other 48 to pay for this mod?


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## You Know (Feb 19, 2011)

Does this set up allow your motor to tilt all the way up?

Im trying to convert my old evinrude to a remote steer and im being told i need a very expensive conversion kit. They are stating that the reason i want that kit and not a universal is that the universal kit doesn't allow for trim. 
Any advice?


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## JOHNSON44 (Feb 19, 2011)

Yes the motor does tilt all the way up. I still have the other 48. I have had an offer on it but having all the spare parts is pretty cool also. 
Motor runs OK, but I am getting nothing out of the tell-tale to tell me if the water pump is working. I did replace the water pump impeller and gaskets. Entirely possible I did not get it back together correctly. I ran it for a short time in a barrel and again with the water muffs, still no stream. Lacking any better ideas I will drop the lower unit again and try to discover the problem.


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## JOHNSON44 (Feb 19, 2011)

I have no idea about converting a tiller steer to a remote steer. Both my 48s were original remote controls. I have used both systems on various boats. I kinda like the tiller for simplicity sake but I do like the steering wheel so I am not of much use to you.


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## Decatur (Feb 19, 2011)

Ya, it would be nice to have a parts motor on hand!


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## You Know (Feb 20, 2011)

Thanks Johnson, any idea who makes your steering bracket.


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## JOHNSON44 (Feb 22, 2011)

No idea on the steering bracket. No marks on it at all.I can to go back thru three guys that used to own the console and steering and maybe find out where it came from originally. If I find out anything I shall let you know.


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## You Know (Feb 23, 2011)

Thanks man


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## JOHNSON44 (Mar 25, 2011)

On the water at last. This is probably the last post on this thread.
I have not had a chance to check the speed but it planes real quick and seems fast to me.
Thanks again for all the help and good words.


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