# NEWB Needs advice: 1961 Evinrude Sportwin 10hp Model 10022



## Brandon (Jul 18, 2012)

Hey fellas. I just picked up a 1961 Evinrude Sportwin 10hp from my uncle. He said it hasnt been started in about 3 years. From what I can tell, the motor is free and the spark plugs and wires look brand new. Can any of you motorheads give me some advice as to what preventative maintenance to perform before trying to start this motor? 

From what I found online, I should run a 24:1 gasil ratio. Correct? 

Thanks for the help!


----------



## shawnfish (Jul 18, 2012)

Brandon said:


> Hey fellas. I just picked up a 1961 Evinrude Sportwin 10hp from my uncle. He said it hasnt been started in about 3 years. From what I can tell, the motor is free and the spark plugs and wires look brand new. Can any of you motorheads give me some advice as to what preventative maintenance to perform before trying to start this motor?
> 
> From what I found online, I should run a 24:1 gasil ratio. Correct?
> 
> Thanks for the help!



YOU CAN AND SHOULD RUN IT A BIT RICHER WITH THE OLDER MOTOR TO PUT A LIL EXTRA LUBE IN THE CYLINDERS. EVEN NEW MOTORS I BELEIVE SHOULD BE A LIL RICHER, IT WILL HELP EXTEND ITS LIFE.

DRAIN THE LOWER UNIT AND CHECK FOR WATER AND IF PRESENT REPLACE PROP SHAFT SEAL AND THE SKEG SEAL AND FILL IT BACK UP, OTHER THAN THAT FIRE IT UP AND SEE HOW IT RUNS. I GAVE MY BUDDY A 61 5.5 FISHERMAN THAT I WISH I WOULD HAVE KEPT BUT HE NEEDED A MOTOR. THEIR COOL MOTORS AND PARTS ARE EASY TO FIND AND THEY ARE EASY TO WORK ON WITH JUST BASIC MECHANICAL KNOWLEDGE...


----------



## Brandon (Jul 18, 2012)

shawnfish said:


> Brandon said:
> 
> 
> > Hey fellas. I just picked up a 1961 Evinrude Sportwin 10hp from my uncle. He said it hasnt been started in about 3 years. From what I can tell, the motor is free and the spark plugs and wires look brand new. Can any of you motorheads give me some advice as to what preventative maintenance to perform before trying to start this motor?
> ...



Thanks, Shawn! 

So mix more oil with the gasoline?


----------



## Pappy (Jul 18, 2012)

If possible run the engine on ethanol free gasoline. 
Your tune up should include an ignition tune up, points cleaning and set at a loose .020. Check ground wires and condensor wires plus loosen ground screws and clean connections and re tighten. Spark plug wires should be checked both at the coil end and the plug end. Check for cracks in the wire, corrosion at the ends. Check coils for cracking and replace as necessary. Carb should be checked and cleaned as necessary.
Probably the most important service point is to install a new impeller at the very least or a complete water pump if the cup or lower plate has any grooving in it. 
Monitor the gearcase lube for the first few trips and reseal the gearcase at the first sign of water if you dont feel like resealing at the time the water pump is serviced. New spark plugs arent really that necessary. 
By all means run at 24:1 mixture. Much cheaper than replacing a powerhead due to lack of lubrication.


----------



## shawnfish (Jul 18, 2012)

Brandon said:


> shawnfish said:
> 
> 
> > Brandon said:
> ...



yeah just a little...


----------



## Brandon (Jul 18, 2012)

Update: 

I decided to take a look at everything and found that the coils are completely dry rotted and the lower unit is leaking oil somewhere. 

Is this motor, being that it is from 1961, worth my time and money to get running? I dont want to spend a bunch of money and not know if its going to last or not. Anyways...thanks for all of your help!


----------



## Kismet (Jul 18, 2012)

Brandon said:


> Update:
> 
> I decided to take a look at everything and found that the coils are completely dry rotted and the lower unit is leaking oil somewhere.
> 
> Is this motor, being that it is from 1961, worth my time and money to get running? I dont want to spend a bunch of money and not know if its going to last or not. Anyways...thanks for all of your help!




I would say "yes," but wait for the pros.

At the moment, my best and most reliable motor is a 1959 Evinrude 10. Could be just a gasket on the lower unit, and the coils are a simple fix.

Best wishes.


----------



## Brandon (Jul 18, 2012)

Kismet said:


> Brandon said:
> 
> 
> > Update:
> ...



Looked into the coils. Looks like they are 26$ each. Anyone know how to remove the flywheel? I got the nut off but its not budging. Thanks!


----------



## Pappy (Jul 18, 2012)

Flywheel takes a puller to get it off. There are three screw holes around the crank that the puller screws go into.
Yes, the engine will last if you go through the service steps laid out for you. Shortcut them and the answer is no!
Those engines are built like tanks and have great torque and power for their size. If you take care of it and run and maintain it properly you can hand it down to your grandkids no problem.


----------



## Brandon (Jul 18, 2012)

Pappy said:


> Flywheel takes a puller to get it off. There are three screw holes around the crank that the puller screws go into.
> Yes, the engine will last if you go through the service steps laid out for you. Shortcut them and the answer is no!
> Those engines are built like tanks and have great torque and power for their size. If you take care of it and run and maintain it properly you can hand it down to your grandkids no problem.



Can you point me in the right direction as to what flywheel puller to use? Thanks!


----------



## Pappy (Jul 18, 2012)

Just go to Napa or wherever you want to buy tools and buy a puller with three concentric slots around the center. Find out what thread the flywheel is on that engine and buy the correct bolts and several flat washers for it. Make sure that all the bolts are at the same height when you pull the flywheel. Put alot of tension on the center bolt and smack it with a hammer and it should pop right off. Make sure the tapers are extremely clean when reinstalling and do not over torque. If you do not know what you are getting into then buy a manual for it and go through it first.


----------



## Brandon (Jul 18, 2012)

Pappy said:


> Just go to Napa or wherever you want to buy tools and buy a puller with three concentric slots around the center. Find out what thread the flywheel is on that engine and buy the correct bolts and several flat washers for it. Make sure that all the bolts are at the same height when you pull the flywheel. Put alot of tension on the center bolt and smack it with a hammer and it should pop right off. Make sure the tapers are extremely clean when reinstalling and do not over torque. If you do not know what you are getting into then buy a manual for it and go through it first.



10 4. Thanks, Pappy.


----------



## bbstacker1 (Jul 19, 2012)

Brandon,

Good old engine you have there, I have one myself, it is the engine I use most on my Scott Canoe Hudson Bay freighter, it will push it along at about 14 mph. Follow the link below it will give you a lot of good reading and pointers as to tuning her up to run right.

https://www.duckworksmagazine.com/07/columns/max/articles.htm


----------



## Brandon (Jul 19, 2012)

bbstacker1 said:


> Brandon,
> 
> Good old engine you have there, I have one myself, it is the engine I use most on my Scott Canoe Hudson Bay freighter, it will push it along at about 14 mph. Follow the link below it will give you a lot of good reading and pointers as to tuning her up to run right.
> 
> https://www.duckworksmagazine.com/07/columns/max/articles.htm



That really helps, Stacker! Thanks a bunch


----------



## Brandon (Jul 20, 2012)

Well....thanks for all of your advice but I have decided to move on and purchase a newer outboard in running condition. I just dont have the experience with outboards this old.


----------



## Brandon (Jul 21, 2012)

Brandon said:


> Well....thanks for all of your advice but I have decided to move on and purchase a newer outboard in running condition. I just dont have the experience with outboards this old.



Tell ya what...I went back and forth all day yesterday on wether or not to restore this motor or not. I finally made up my mind and ordered new coils, condensers, points and a carb kit. I also went to Napa (thanks to Pappy) and bought a flywheel puller. I removed the flywheel with no issues and took off the carb. I cant wait for these parts to arrive!!


----------



## bbstacker1 (Jul 22, 2012)

Good for you, keep us posted as to how things are progressing. I would do a compression test on the engine before I got to involved just to make sure I had a good base to start with.


----------



## Kismet (Jul 22, 2012)

Brandon said:


> Brandon said:
> 
> 
> > Well....thanks for all of your advice but I have decided to move on and purchase a newer outboard in running condition. I just dont have the experience with outboards this old.
> ...




For some silly reason, that makes me happy.  

None of my business, but was disappointed when you said you were going to let it go.

Can be one helluvan engine. 


Best wishes.


----------



## Brandon (Jul 23, 2012)

Kismet said:


> Brandon said:
> 
> 
> > Brandon said:
> ...



Haha. Im glad that makes you happy  I am glad I decided to keep going. So far I have around 100$ invested in the motor with the parts I ordered last week. 

I'm sure once I start rebuilding, I will have plenty of questions!


----------



## Brandon (Jul 23, 2012)

Update: Carb kit arrives this afternoon  

Question: When I took the carb off of the motor, I noticed that inside the bowl(which is glass), the threaded disc that holds the float? up was loose. (I wish I had a picture of it at the moment but dont). The disc is threaded which screws onto the nozzle? Should this be tight up against the float? 

Do I have this correct? If need be I will post pictures later today. Thanks!


----------



## Brandon (Jul 23, 2012)

Brandon said:


> Update: Carb kit arrives this afternoon
> 
> Question: When I took the carb off of the motor, I noticed that inside the bowl(which is glass), the threaded disc that holds the float? up was loose. (I wish I had a picture of it at the moment but dont). The disc is threaded which screws onto the nozzle? Should this be tight up against the float?
> 
> Do I have this correct? If need be I will post pictures later today. Thanks!



Nevermind! Once the rebuild kit got here I was able to figure out everything. Now....time to rebuild the carb.


----------



## Pappy (Jul 23, 2012)

That clear bowl is a filter housing. That is probably a sintered filter held on by a serrated thumb wheel. Make sure that filter is very clean. You may want to go back down to your friendly NAPA store again and invest in a big paint can size of Carb Cleaner. I have a feeling that once you get this one going there will be another you want to try your hand at. Pretty soon you will be joining the likes of me over at the Antique Outboard Assoc. or www.aomci.org
Make sure you remove the packings from around where the adjustment needle(s) went.


----------



## Brandon (Jul 23, 2012)

Pappy said:


> That clear bowl is a filter housing. That is probably a sintered filter held on by a serrated thumb wheel. Make sure that filter is very clean. You may want to go back down to your friendly NAPA store again and invest in a big paint can size of Carb Cleaner. I have a feeling that once you get this one going there will be another you want to try your hand at. Pretty soon you will be joining the likes of me over at the Antique Outboard Assoc. or https://www.aomci.org
> Make sure you remove the packings from around where the adjustment needle(s) went.



Yeah the filter in the bowl is very clean. I havnt opened the carb up yet and am scared to see the condition of the float. I cant find replacements anywhere. My plan is to disassemble the carb and let the parts soak in carb cleaner tomorrow.


----------



## Brandon (Jul 24, 2012)

Just finished rebuilding the carb! The old packing washers around the needles were a son of a gun to get out. Other than that the rebuild went smooth. Oh and the float was in presinte condition! Now if the coils and tune up kit would hurry up and arrive :LOL2:


----------



## Brandon (Jul 25, 2012)

Installed the freshly rebuilt carb today. My tune-up kit arrived, got everything replaced in the magneto which was pretty simple. I installed the flywheel and got everything put back together. 

SHE STARTED!!!!

Need some advice on tunning the carb. I tried everything and every time i put her in forward and tried to rev the engine it sputters really bad...i bring the throttle back down and it runs good.


----------



## Brandon (Jul 27, 2012)

What do you guys think? Running good?  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y4g2dtVQXDM


----------



## shawnfish (Jul 27, 2012)

like pappy said, built to last! and with routine maintnance that motor will be running when most of us are on the big lake in the sky......


----------



## Kismet (Jul 27, 2012)

:mrgreen: =D> :mrgreen: =D> :mrgreen:


----------



## Brandon (Jul 27, 2012)

Kismet said:


> :mrgreen: =D> :mrgreen: =D> :mrgreen:



Never give up


----------

